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Would you like to inspect the original subtitles? These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:55,100 --> 00:00:58,350 Good morning and welcome to Nazar� in Portugal. 2 00:00:59,350 --> 00:01:01,520 The World's Surf League's Big Wave Tour 3 00:01:01,690 --> 00:01:05,480 now brings its focus to the shores of Western Europe. 4 00:01:05,650 --> 00:01:08,200 Where's the limit? We're gonna find out. 5 00:01:08,360 --> 00:01:12,870 The World's Surf League runs surfing competitions all around the world. 6 00:01:15,370 --> 00:01:20,960 And most of those events are held in waves that will be from 2 to 6 feet. 7 00:01:21,130 --> 00:01:23,380 The offshoot of it is the Big Wave Tour, 8 00:01:24,210 --> 00:01:27,800 where the waves need to be at least 9 00:01:27,970 --> 00:01:30,680 35 feet on the face and preferably bigger. 10 00:01:30,840 --> 00:01:34,220 A humongous wave. Pulling into a big barrel. 11 00:01:34,390 --> 00:01:39,060 Nazar� has been an incredible resource for running Big Waves. 12 00:01:39,140 --> 00:01:40,810 That's because there are so many big waves. 13 00:01:41,980 --> 00:01:44,480 We've put on three editions 14 00:01:44,650 --> 00:01:47,070 of the Nazar� challenge as a paddle event 15 00:01:47,230 --> 00:01:48,490 and it was radical. 16 00:01:48,650 --> 00:01:51,450 I remember going there for the Nazar� challenge, 17 00:01:51,610 --> 00:01:53,490 paddle and surfing competition. 18 00:01:53,660 --> 00:01:56,200 And I remember seeing these giant waves and going, 19 00:01:56,370 --> 00:01:58,910 how did I get myself into this mess? 20 00:02:00,160 --> 00:02:02,540 The night before the competition I was laying in my bed going, 21 00:02:02,710 --> 00:02:05,750 I really hope I don't die tomorrow. 22 00:02:13,340 --> 00:02:15,220 The reality of it is 23 00:02:15,800 --> 00:02:19,430 we had too many days where the waves were just too big to paddle. 24 00:02:20,390 --> 00:02:25,020 Oh no! Over the handlebars so to speak. And take a wipeout. 25 00:02:25,190 --> 00:02:29,650 Oh my gosh! Getting bsolutely steam rolled. 26 00:02:29,820 --> 00:02:35,160 World champions were just terrified of it and were just getting destroyed. 27 00:02:36,410 --> 00:02:39,500 After that we decided maybe tow surfing 28 00:02:39,660 --> 00:02:44,670 is the right format for this spot because it's never too big. 29 00:02:46,340 --> 00:02:48,300 I ended up surviving the event 30 00:02:48,380 --> 00:02:51,670 but I was like, I'm okay without ever coming here. 31 00:02:51,760 --> 00:02:54,300 Pretty much all my friends from Hawaii were like, 32 00:02:54,470 --> 00:02:56,350 we're not coming back here ever again. 33 00:02:56,510 --> 00:03:00,020 And it's odd because over the years it's completely changed 34 00:03:00,100 --> 00:03:04,390 and now I long to go to a place like Nazar�. I love Nazar�. 35 00:03:04,480 --> 00:03:06,440 It's one of my favorite Big Waves in the world because 36 00:03:06,520 --> 00:03:10,110 it's such a challenge and I've just decided to accept that challenge. 37 00:03:15,110 --> 00:03:19,490 Check out these monster 100-foot waves off Portugal. 38 00:03:19,580 --> 00:03:23,710 The biggest wave ever surfed. As high as 100 feet. 39 00:03:23,870 --> 00:03:27,250 To put it in perspective, that is taller than an 8-story building. 40 00:03:27,330 --> 00:03:30,550 Surfers are always looking for the next great thing. 41 00:03:30,710 --> 00:03:34,550 It often breaks those brave or crazy board riders. 42 00:03:34,720 --> 00:03:38,180 Severe white routes and waves of mind-boggling heights. 43 00:03:38,260 --> 00:03:41,180 What happens here, happens nowhere else in the world. 44 00:03:41,270 --> 00:03:42,850 The biggest wave ever surfed. 45 00:03:42,930 --> 00:03:45,730 The biggest wave ever. 46 00:03:45,890 --> 00:03:47,310 100-foot wave. 47 00:03:47,480 --> 00:03:52,990 100 FOOT WAVE. 48 00:03:53,070 --> 00:03:57,240 CHAPTER VI ICARUS 49 00:04:00,330 --> 00:04:04,410 Nazar� Tow Surfing Challenge February 11, 2020 50 00:04:06,000 --> 00:04:10,040 The Nazar� Tow Surfing Challenge really was the first event of its kind ever. 51 00:04:10,920 --> 00:04:17,130 A performance oriented, purely tow surfing competitive event. 52 00:04:17,300 --> 00:04:20,050 At this arena 53 00:04:20,510 --> 00:04:23,970 where thousands of people were watching. 54 00:04:24,680 --> 00:04:28,150 Welcome back to live action from the Nazar� Tow Surf Challenge. 55 00:04:28,310 --> 00:04:30,560 The prize out here today is the best ride. 56 00:04:30,730 --> 00:04:34,190 We are on the way to heat, one hour long. 57 00:04:35,070 --> 00:04:39,610 Our goal with the format for the Nazar� Tow Surfing challenge was 58 00:04:39,780 --> 00:04:42,620 to have as much action going on as possible 59 00:04:42,700 --> 00:04:45,580 without jet skis crashing into each other 60 00:04:45,750 --> 00:04:48,790 and too much going on where you lose track of the surfers. 61 00:04:48,870 --> 00:04:52,000 So we had a priority system that had never been used before 62 00:04:52,090 --> 00:04:55,300 where we had a big screen on the side of the lighthouse 63 00:04:55,380 --> 00:04:57,050 and a judge that would say hey, 64 00:04:57,220 --> 00:05:00,180 once you caught a wave basically you go to the end of the line. 65 00:05:00,340 --> 00:05:02,970 Back is clear. 66 00:05:03,970 --> 00:05:07,430 Here we go. Andrew Cotton, from Great Britain, a big fade. 67 00:05:07,600 --> 00:05:11,350 He did ride that wave really well, he put himself in a great position. 68 00:05:11,440 --> 00:05:15,280 And that is Lucas Chianca, massive wedge of a peak. 69 00:05:16,190 --> 00:05:18,990 Look at this scene, this is one of the biggest waves we've seen. 70 00:05:19,150 --> 00:05:22,280 Tom Butler that was. That was a very, very tall one. 71 00:05:23,410 --> 00:05:25,580 Kai Lenny got involved. 72 00:05:25,660 --> 00:05:28,830 What you can expect from him, he's gonna do stuff like that. 73 00:05:28,910 --> 00:05:31,290 Complete spin, 360 degrees. 74 00:05:31,370 --> 00:05:36,170 Lands with control and then drops back in and loses control. 75 00:05:36,250 --> 00:05:38,380 Oh and what a tumble. 76 00:05:38,470 --> 00:05:41,130 Wow, that was crazy stuff. 77 00:05:41,300 --> 00:05:43,390 There were thousands and thousands of people. 78 00:05:43,470 --> 00:05:47,220 That was pretty astonishing just to see that amount of people. 79 00:05:47,390 --> 00:05:50,100 I felt like a gladiator in Thunderdome. 80 00:05:50,940 --> 00:05:53,360 We're over here to see Andrew surf 81 00:05:53,520 --> 00:05:56,860 for the first time. Andrew Cotton that is. 82 00:05:57,610 --> 00:06:01,070 I've seen him scores of times on video and TV 83 00:06:01,240 --> 00:06:04,780 but never actually being here. So it's amazing to see it. 84 00:06:04,950 --> 00:06:07,910 We've got to manifest one really good wave for Cotty 85 00:06:07,990 --> 00:06:10,330 and one really good wave for Tom in this next scene. 86 00:06:10,410 --> 00:06:12,710 I'm gonna go up there to study so that I can call the wave. 87 00:06:12,870 --> 00:06:14,540 First speed, first speed. 88 00:06:14,710 --> 00:06:17,170 Here we go, doubles. 89 00:06:17,250 --> 00:06:21,130 Yes, here we go, we've got Cotty on the inside. 90 00:06:35,230 --> 00:06:39,030 That is a massive wave. 91 00:06:39,190 --> 00:06:42,610 She has her wings out, stabilizing herself. 92 00:06:48,370 --> 00:06:52,000 She is next level. I could see her winning actually. 93 00:06:52,080 --> 00:06:54,870 Beating all the guys. I would love that. 94 00:07:04,180 --> 00:07:07,550 Justine Dupont, you just surfed your half hour heat, how was it out there? 95 00:07:07,640 --> 00:07:11,930 I was so lucky, I got a really nice wave at the beginning of the heat, 96 00:07:12,020 --> 00:07:16,310 so then we were pretty confident and just having fun. 97 00:07:16,480 --> 00:07:18,940 We surf those big waves every day. 98 00:07:20,780 --> 00:07:26,450 The difference is that it was broadcast live. 99 00:07:27,160 --> 00:07:30,830 I loved being able to share that with everyone. 100 00:07:30,910 --> 00:07:32,330 Tell us about the conditions today. 101 00:07:32,410 --> 00:07:34,580 Is this everything you'd hoped for for the event to run? 102 00:07:34,660 --> 00:07:37,540 Yeah it's really good. There's not that much wind, 103 00:07:37,630 --> 00:07:41,630 so we are not used to having this condition, that perfect. 104 00:07:41,800 --> 00:07:44,300 Right now I'd like to be in the water, yeah. 105 00:07:44,380 --> 00:07:45,720 Because it's so smooth. 106 00:07:46,720 --> 00:07:49,350 This is the kind of day that I live for. 107 00:07:52,680 --> 00:07:56,350 - It looks like Maya Gabeira. - This wave's got a wall on it. 108 00:07:56,440 --> 00:07:59,980 This is the kind of wave you want if you can get around that. 109 00:08:03,570 --> 00:08:07,910 Now she's gonna deal with some white water here. 110 00:08:07,990 --> 00:08:11,830 The noise and the power that exploded all around me. 111 00:08:11,990 --> 00:08:14,370 I don't know how I would have reacted on a free surf 112 00:08:14,540 --> 00:08:17,870 but because I was competing I saw that bomb and didn't even think about it. 113 00:08:17,960 --> 00:08:21,170 I went all the way to the bottom and then I saw that there was no way 114 00:08:21,250 --> 00:08:25,630 that I was going to be able to turn at that point. I just held on. 115 00:08:25,720 --> 00:08:29,550 The explosion of white water gets the better of Maya. 116 00:08:29,640 --> 00:08:31,350 I got really lucky because 117 00:08:31,430 --> 00:08:35,350 I just had enough that I was thrown forward and not down. 118 00:08:36,230 --> 00:08:40,440 And now we get to see Sebastian and his ability to get in. 119 00:08:42,520 --> 00:08:45,440 And there's the pickup for Maya, all good. 120 00:08:45,530 --> 00:08:48,660 I just got so close to something so scary 121 00:08:48,740 --> 00:08:52,080 that I must say that it took a lot of my confidence away. 122 00:08:52,240 --> 00:08:55,200 I was one athlete up until that point, 123 00:08:55,290 --> 00:08:58,870 and then I became another athlete for the other part of the competition. 124 00:08:58,960 --> 00:09:02,960 Where I was like, I don't want to play that close to fire, you know? 125 00:09:03,040 --> 00:09:07,630 I want to surf well but this is not worth my life. 126 00:09:10,640 --> 00:09:13,390 Where are you guys? 127 00:09:17,640 --> 00:09:19,890 We're still riding. 128 00:09:20,060 --> 00:09:21,860 Spotting is really tough. 129 00:09:22,020 --> 00:09:26,280 Really tough. I'm just trying to study the waves so I could choose better. 130 00:09:26,440 --> 00:09:29,570 It's so challenging to pick the right wave. 131 00:09:29,650 --> 00:09:32,240 I've got a lot of sympathy for the spotters. 132 00:09:33,700 --> 00:09:35,830 We're running on a big one. 133 00:09:39,120 --> 00:09:41,750 Can you tell me where red is? Where's red? 134 00:09:41,830 --> 00:09:45,090 I know he found it more difficult than what he envisioned 135 00:09:45,170 --> 00:09:47,920 and I think that's probably because he's used to being out in the sea. 136 00:09:48,090 --> 00:09:51,510 When you're in the water you're more focused on 137 00:09:51,590 --> 00:09:55,010 just what's around you, not every aspect of that. 138 00:09:55,180 --> 00:09:58,100 Red's first priority now? Yeah? 139 00:09:58,180 --> 00:10:00,020 You guys have priority. Wait for the bottom. 140 00:10:00,100 --> 00:10:02,770 There's a second bottom coming. A second set is coming. 141 00:10:02,850 --> 00:10:06,730 Tell Cotty I'll let you guys know if it's a good right. 142 00:10:06,820 --> 00:10:09,820 The rights are hollow and amazing. 143 00:10:09,900 --> 00:10:12,740 If it's a good right, tell him to go right. 144 00:10:14,620 --> 00:10:18,580 You guys are a priority. This next wave is really good. 145 00:10:19,790 --> 00:10:23,000 I was surfing and Garrett's called theway on the radio 146 00:10:23,170 --> 00:10:26,040 and it was a left hander and a right hander. 147 00:10:26,130 --> 00:10:28,840 It was a perfect pick, you could have gone any way. 148 00:10:29,010 --> 00:10:31,420 We were down at like 5th priority at this point. 149 00:10:32,430 --> 00:10:37,060 We saw the other team going and we had to wait to see what they did first. 150 00:10:37,680 --> 00:10:40,600 I was just looking left, I didn't see what was going on behind me, 151 00:10:40,680 --> 00:10:41,770 over my shoulder on the right. 152 00:10:43,310 --> 00:10:45,940 When we figured out that they were going left, 153 00:10:46,110 --> 00:10:47,440 oh scoot me on the right. 154 00:10:50,740 --> 00:10:52,280 Left, left, left, left. 155 00:11:03,710 --> 00:11:05,170 That was fine? 156 00:11:08,250 --> 00:11:10,250 I just had this wave that just was 157 00:11:10,340 --> 00:11:14,550 that wave that everyone draws during their algebra class. 158 00:11:14,630 --> 00:11:17,640 This perfect 70-foot barrel. 159 00:11:21,640 --> 00:11:24,770 I'd have to say from the last wave it looks like you had fun out there. 160 00:11:24,850 --> 00:11:29,480 Yeah it's super fun and it's super sick to just be here right now. 161 00:11:30,020 --> 00:11:34,110 Both Lucas and I want to ride like an 80-footer if one eventually comes in. 162 00:11:34,280 --> 00:11:37,370 Well are you ready to go? You seem to be in the nominations so far, 163 00:11:37,450 --> 00:11:39,080 to keep going with the rest of the event. 164 00:11:40,410 --> 00:11:43,870 FINAL HEAT 165 00:11:45,120 --> 00:11:49,170 There's tons of waves. Don't worry. There's tons of waves. 166 00:11:49,340 --> 00:11:53,090 Can you hear Cotty on the radio or can you hear me? 167 00:11:53,260 --> 00:11:58,550 We can hear you when you talk but all we hear is... when you're not talking. 168 00:11:59,350 --> 00:12:02,140 He knew that he was losing it towards the end. 169 00:12:05,100 --> 00:12:08,020 Left inside, go, go, go. Way over, way over. 170 00:12:08,190 --> 00:12:09,400 This next wave is the wave. 171 00:12:09,560 --> 00:12:11,610 That's where you don't want to be. 172 00:12:12,400 --> 00:12:16,740 Here and there, right and left. It's like classic Garrett. 173 00:12:17,450 --> 00:12:19,620 How much time? 174 00:12:22,660 --> 00:12:25,160 Two minutes guys, let's get you on the nugget. 175 00:12:26,910 --> 00:12:29,290 There is a big set coming, there is a big set coming. 176 00:12:29,460 --> 00:12:31,540 Get on the rope, get on the rope. 177 00:12:32,960 --> 00:12:36,760 This is the wave, this is the magic wave. Go for this wave. 178 00:12:39,760 --> 00:12:40,970 What? 179 00:12:42,010 --> 00:12:46,020 Towards the end of that final heat I was towing fronting into a wave 180 00:12:46,180 --> 00:12:50,770 and then it kind of came across the radio, 181 00:12:50,860 --> 00:12:52,650 skis down, skis down. 182 00:13:00,360 --> 00:13:01,950 We lost the ski, we lost the ski. 183 00:13:04,540 --> 00:13:10,540 Alex and Hugo were on the inside, they didn't have backup safety. 184 00:13:10,630 --> 00:13:14,340 They were going back out and there was this whitewater 185 00:13:14,420 --> 00:13:16,340 and then a sideways wave. 186 00:13:16,420 --> 00:13:20,340 And they flew over the sideways and landed sideways. 187 00:13:20,430 --> 00:13:22,140 Hit the ski really hard, 188 00:13:22,300 --> 00:13:25,350 and I think Alex knocked out on impact. 189 00:13:26,520 --> 00:13:29,600 And then both of them were in the water 190 00:13:29,690 --> 00:13:33,190 and Hugo's there trying to get back on the ski. 191 00:13:40,910 --> 00:13:43,870 And they're still under water. Not popping up. 192 00:13:44,490 --> 00:13:48,580 Then everybody realized this piece of foam that they saw floating 193 00:13:48,750 --> 00:13:52,000 wasn't just a piece of foam or a life jacket, it was Alex. 194 00:13:52,170 --> 00:13:53,330 There he is, there he is. 195 00:14:00,470 --> 00:14:07,140 During the event I was the safety driver for any necessary situation. 196 00:14:07,310 --> 00:14:10,060 Alemao Edilson Luis Da Assun�ao, WSL Nazar� Challenge Safety Driver 197 00:14:10,230 --> 00:14:14,730 When I saw a person, I identified Alex 198 00:14:14,810 --> 00:14:17,530 and he was partially unconscious. 199 00:14:17,690 --> 00:14:20,820 He was trying to fight for his life. He was in shock. 200 00:14:21,450 --> 00:14:24,410 I tried to grab him. I couldn't at first. 201 00:14:26,030 --> 00:14:28,660 Then a wave came and I escaped. 202 00:14:34,750 --> 00:14:37,800 I came back, tried to talk to him. 203 00:14:37,880 --> 00:14:42,130 "Alex come with me, come with me." He wouldn't respond. 204 00:14:44,430 --> 00:14:46,800 Then another wave came. 205 00:14:50,390 --> 00:14:54,520 It's the second time that we ever see a body floating out there. 206 00:14:54,690 --> 00:14:57,190 The first time it was mine and now was the second. 207 00:15:00,190 --> 00:15:04,450 I swam to him. I tried to grab him as tightly as possible. 208 00:15:04,530 --> 00:15:07,410 So I wouldn't lose him during the next wave. 209 00:15:09,870 --> 00:15:13,250 Then we got hit with a big wave right on the sand. 210 00:15:13,330 --> 00:15:17,250 He rolled away and I did too. I completely lost him. 211 00:15:19,840 --> 00:15:21,920 He showed up a bit further away. 212 00:15:22,510 --> 00:15:26,340 I remember I saw many lifeguards, many friends and many jetski drivers, 213 00:15:26,430 --> 00:15:28,260 everyone trying to look for him. 214 00:16:00,540 --> 00:16:03,050 When Hugo Vau and Alex had their accident, 215 00:16:03,210 --> 00:16:04,920 I was with Scooby 216 00:16:05,090 --> 00:16:08,140 and no one told us on the radio. 217 00:16:08,220 --> 00:16:09,970 We just kept surfing. We didn't hear it. 218 00:16:10,600 --> 00:16:15,180 There's no real info. It's just nobody knew what happened. 219 00:16:15,270 --> 00:16:16,440 It was until 220 00:16:16,600 --> 00:16:20,520 social media or something with the video and then it was just, oh shit. 221 00:16:20,690 --> 00:16:24,110 Extraordinary pictures that have come in from Nazar�, Portugal, 222 00:16:24,280 --> 00:16:27,400 Alex Botelho got wiped out while on a jetski. 223 00:16:27,570 --> 00:16:31,200 Botelho was unconscious when lifeguards pulled him from the water. 224 00:16:31,370 --> 00:16:35,200 He was unconscious for two minutes. 225 00:16:35,290 --> 00:16:37,540 It was a moment of panic. 226 00:16:45,920 --> 00:16:47,680 It looked like he broke his back there 227 00:16:47,760 --> 00:16:50,720 and then boom, wave washes in like the heaviest thing 228 00:16:50,800 --> 00:16:54,770 and then he's just out. He's just out and there's no skis and it's like... 229 00:16:54,850 --> 00:16:56,730 So you saw the whole thing? 230 00:16:59,140 --> 00:17:03,270 And then I just ran down and he started breathing again. 231 00:17:04,320 --> 00:17:06,190 But yeah, heavy. 232 00:17:14,700 --> 00:17:18,410 When Alex and Hugo get flipped upside down with the jet ski, 233 00:17:18,580 --> 00:17:23,340 you realize you are nothing compared to this giant ocean. 234 00:17:23,500 --> 00:17:26,050 Wow. It really took us back to reality. 235 00:17:27,090 --> 00:17:29,970 We must do even better. Be more strict with safety. 236 00:17:30,050 --> 00:17:32,470 To me that is really the most important thing. 237 00:17:34,010 --> 00:17:38,060 It's hard. I surfed the contest really expecting my body 238 00:17:38,140 --> 00:17:40,520 if it eventually floated unconscious 239 00:17:40,600 --> 00:17:43,860 to be grabbed and taken to the beach very quickly. 240 00:17:44,020 --> 00:17:48,820 And to see that that didn't go that way with a friend of ours 241 00:17:48,900 --> 00:17:50,490 it just... 242 00:17:52,110 --> 00:17:53,950 I don't know, it's scary. 243 00:17:57,830 --> 00:18:01,040 A lot of preparation went into having a safety plan. 244 00:18:01,960 --> 00:18:06,040 But in the end, Alex Botelho was not riding a wave, 245 00:18:06,130 --> 00:18:09,840 he was getting a lift back out with his partner and the jet ski crashed. 246 00:18:10,010 --> 00:18:12,300 If you attended all of the safety meetings, 247 00:18:12,380 --> 00:18:15,220 that wasn't something that everyone was looking for. 248 00:18:15,300 --> 00:18:20,140 Luckily Alemao followed Hugo or Alex wouldn't be here. 249 00:18:20,230 --> 00:18:23,600 He was watching four other teams at the same time. 250 00:18:24,610 --> 00:18:27,480 But he made sure that he went in and got out. 251 00:18:29,110 --> 00:18:31,360 Alemao was the real hero. 252 00:18:31,530 --> 00:18:35,370 I would never be the best in Nazar�. No one will ever be. 253 00:18:36,200 --> 00:18:37,530 No one's ready for Nazar�. 254 00:18:37,620 --> 00:18:41,410 Not even the best ones and the best prepared, like Hugo and Alex. 255 00:18:41,500 --> 00:18:44,920 Everyone is subject to being knocked out. 256 00:18:45,080 --> 00:18:47,460 It's a ring without a gladiator. 257 00:18:47,630 --> 00:18:51,510 Over there the winner is always "Big Mama" Nature. 258 00:18:54,010 --> 00:18:58,930 It definitely makes me think he was lucky. 259 00:19:00,390 --> 00:19:02,180 when you're out in the water 260 00:19:03,730 --> 00:19:07,940 everything changes, you're like a kid in the candy store. 261 00:19:10,780 --> 00:19:12,530 Usually. 262 00:19:15,570 --> 00:19:17,450 How was today, Cotty? 263 00:19:17,620 --> 00:19:19,910 It was alright. 264 00:19:20,080 --> 00:19:22,660 A couple of big waves. 265 00:19:22,830 --> 00:19:27,500 But it was a bit of a weird one ending like it did. 266 00:19:28,960 --> 00:19:32,460 Hopefully I'm... You know, I... 267 00:19:34,010 --> 00:19:37,720 Got an interview for BBC news with Tom. 268 00:19:37,800 --> 00:19:40,640 I'm quite tired, I definitely don't want to be doing interviews. 269 00:19:40,720 --> 00:19:44,140 Public speaking's one of my biggest fears. 270 00:19:45,770 --> 00:19:48,650 And uh, now I do it for a job. 271 00:19:50,480 --> 00:19:53,820 That's way worse than surfing 80-foot waves. 272 00:19:53,900 --> 00:19:56,070 Andrew, Tom, thank you very much for doing this. 273 00:19:56,150 --> 00:19:58,660 Andrew, first of all tells us what conditions have been like 274 00:19:58,740 --> 00:20:01,280 for big wave surfing there for the last couple of days. 275 00:20:01,450 --> 00:20:06,210 Today the swells will peak probably at like 60 feet maybe? 276 00:20:06,290 --> 00:20:11,460 And it was a Nazar� tow challenge, yeah it's been a great day. 277 00:20:12,590 --> 00:20:14,920 And how are you getting on in the competition? 278 00:20:15,010 --> 00:20:18,720 We don't know. We surfed all day today. 279 00:20:18,800 --> 00:20:23,220 We found out tonight at 7:00 there's an awards ceremony at the Lighthouse. 280 00:20:23,810 --> 00:20:27,810 I hate to remind you, Andrew, of what happened there a few years ago. 281 00:20:27,890 --> 00:20:31,190 You had a spectacular wipeout that nearly ended your career. 282 00:20:31,270 --> 00:20:33,820 How are things progressing from then on? 283 00:20:35,110 --> 00:20:38,490 The wipeout a couple of years ago, 284 00:20:40,620 --> 00:20:44,830 it was traumatic but it was just an injury. And, and... 285 00:20:44,910 --> 00:20:48,080 Whatever I do it's always about the broken back, 286 00:20:48,250 --> 00:20:50,290 it's all about the injury. 287 00:20:50,380 --> 00:20:53,460 It's like shit I've surfed so many good waves and they're like... 288 00:20:53,550 --> 00:20:55,630 All they want to talk about is the injury. 289 00:20:55,710 --> 00:20:58,260 Which is kind of sad isn't it? 290 00:20:59,680 --> 00:21:01,680 No one really cares about the ones you make, 291 00:21:01,760 --> 00:21:04,930 they want to see about the ones you don't. You know? 292 00:21:05,100 --> 00:21:07,730 How many interviews have you been asked about your wipeout? 293 00:21:07,810 --> 00:21:10,150 It's just like oh my god. 294 00:21:11,480 --> 00:21:12,650 See you later. 295 00:21:12,730 --> 00:21:15,360 I'm so glad you guys are alright, thank you for looking after Tom for me. 296 00:21:15,440 --> 00:21:17,900 We did some good waves man. 297 00:21:19,950 --> 00:21:22,280 You're looking for a shirt, right? 298 00:21:22,910 --> 00:21:26,330 - You've got one in the camper there. - I am there. 299 00:21:26,410 --> 00:21:28,250 See you in a little bit. 300 00:21:34,210 --> 00:21:35,590 Hi, mate. 301 00:21:36,460 --> 00:21:39,470 Sorry I wasn't that good up there. It's so hard. 302 00:21:39,550 --> 00:21:42,930 Yeah, I know. You're fine. It was good, it was good. 303 00:21:43,010 --> 00:21:45,310 - It's hard though, isn't it? - It's so gnarly. 304 00:21:45,390 --> 00:21:47,970 It's hard, eh? Did anyone get any... what was the... 305 00:21:49,810 --> 00:21:55,400 Your last wave was probably a contender and nobody shot it. 306 00:21:55,480 --> 00:21:58,440 They were all shooting Alex. 307 00:21:59,030 --> 00:22:01,070 - No one shot the last one? - No. 308 00:22:01,240 --> 00:22:04,410 From what they were doing your wave should be in the top five. 309 00:22:05,870 --> 00:22:07,330 - The last wave. - The last wave? 310 00:22:07,490 --> 00:22:09,540 Yeah, but they couldn't find it. 311 00:22:11,750 --> 00:22:14,920 Oh I don't know that's too bad isn't it? 312 00:22:17,170 --> 00:22:18,420 Alright. 313 00:22:21,010 --> 00:22:22,590 And then uh... 314 00:22:26,180 --> 00:22:28,350 Okay. Good surfing. 315 00:22:30,930 --> 00:22:33,350 Basically the rules of the biggest wave 316 00:22:33,520 --> 00:22:36,110 within an event really depend on 317 00:22:36,270 --> 00:22:39,150 the video and photographic evidence. 318 00:22:39,230 --> 00:22:44,200 Andrew Cotton caught an amazing wave at the last minute of the challenge 319 00:22:44,280 --> 00:22:47,450 and tragically it was not captured. 320 00:22:47,620 --> 00:22:51,450 I remember them saying the cameraman caught the wave in the score 321 00:22:51,540 --> 00:22:53,670 and he caught it before the horn blast. 322 00:22:55,750 --> 00:22:59,380 But everything was happening on the inside with Alex and Hugo 323 00:22:59,550 --> 00:23:02,510 and the attention obviously went to that. 324 00:23:02,670 --> 00:23:06,800 How this can happen? When you have like 8-10 cameras? 325 00:23:07,430 --> 00:23:09,560 They were pointing all the cameras to the accident. 326 00:23:09,640 --> 00:23:11,980 To the point they lost Cotty's wave. 327 00:23:12,140 --> 00:23:14,140 Which was one of the biggest on that day. 328 00:23:14,310 --> 00:23:18,230 I looked up and I saw it and it was a stunner but unfortunately, 329 00:23:18,400 --> 00:23:20,440 not only everyone working on the event 330 00:23:20,610 --> 00:23:24,780 but everyone who had a camera who was attending the event 331 00:23:24,950 --> 00:23:29,740 looked the other way. So it was not up for consideration in the event. 332 00:23:29,830 --> 00:23:33,330 Nor was it up for a consideration of the biggest wave of the year. 333 00:23:33,500 --> 00:23:37,920 Until we can have a camera over every square centimeter of the earth 334 00:23:38,080 --> 00:23:39,920 a few things are gonna go missing. 335 00:23:49,260 --> 00:23:52,100 Hello, how are you my darling? 336 00:23:52,180 --> 00:23:55,730 Well done. You did so well, brilliant. 337 00:23:55,810 --> 00:23:58,520 You didn't even know which one I was though. 338 00:24:00,020 --> 00:24:03,280 But I think I knew sometimes. 339 00:24:03,360 --> 00:24:06,490 No, it was great. So glad that I was able to see you. It was brilliant. 340 00:24:08,570 --> 00:24:11,620 I saw you on that big wave coming down, I saw that. 341 00:24:11,700 --> 00:24:15,910 Yes, we were fortunate to be still out there watching the final wave 342 00:24:16,080 --> 00:24:18,920 and it really, really was a big wave but um, 343 00:24:19,080 --> 00:24:21,170 I don't think an awful lot of people did see it though. 344 00:24:34,520 --> 00:24:38,230 Cotty loves surfing big waves. It's all he wants to do. 345 00:24:38,310 --> 00:24:41,560 He is hungry, super hungry. 346 00:24:43,360 --> 00:24:46,530 Obsessed with big waves but never really... 347 00:24:50,570 --> 00:24:52,330 Never really... 348 00:24:56,120 --> 00:25:00,420 Never really want anything or really had that moment. 349 00:25:02,290 --> 00:25:05,420 WSL AWARDS CEREMONY 350 00:25:06,050 --> 00:25:09,590 My first words go to Alex and Hugo. 351 00:25:09,680 --> 00:25:13,930 Let's give them a big round of applause. I think they deserve it. 352 00:25:15,520 --> 00:25:16,810 Second of all, 353 00:25:16,980 --> 00:25:20,230 my family, the surfers. Man, 354 00:25:21,310 --> 00:25:25,730 you're here all these years. I'll always be here to support you. 355 00:25:25,900 --> 00:25:29,240 As long as the people of Nazar� vote for me of course. 356 00:25:29,320 --> 00:25:33,570 But if they don't, I'll still be here. Thank you, thank you, thank you. 357 00:25:33,660 --> 00:25:35,580 Have a nice evening. 358 00:25:39,160 --> 00:25:42,630 There's Seb. Thank you. You wanna say something? 359 00:25:43,380 --> 00:25:47,050 I just came from the hospital. Alex has a problem with his lung, 360 00:25:47,130 --> 00:25:49,470 a lot of water in there, but he will push through 361 00:25:49,630 --> 00:25:54,300 and he will also be kept there overnight. But probably also be fine. 362 00:25:54,470 --> 00:25:59,680 And he asked me to pass the message that he really enjoyed the day. 363 00:25:59,770 --> 00:26:02,560 He's stoked that everyone charged 364 00:26:02,730 --> 00:26:05,820 and he's happy to come back and see all of us. 365 00:26:05,980 --> 00:26:07,860 That's the message he had. 366 00:26:10,320 --> 00:26:11,570 Beautiful stuff. 367 00:26:14,780 --> 00:26:17,540 So to be unique to this event 368 00:26:17,620 --> 00:26:20,960 we have the surfers voting on all the awards tonight. 369 00:26:21,040 --> 00:26:23,420 It is something where you can't blame the judging, 370 00:26:23,500 --> 00:26:26,210 because you are all the judges as athletes. 371 00:26:26,380 --> 00:26:29,170 I'm now going to introduce the highlights of today. 372 00:26:29,340 --> 00:26:33,930 So please pay attention to this very closely so you can get your votes in. 373 00:26:35,720 --> 00:26:39,310 The idea was we would watch everyone's run and we'd all judge it. 374 00:26:41,020 --> 00:26:43,900 Surfing is more of an art than a sport 375 00:26:44,060 --> 00:26:46,360 and hard to judge in a lot of ways. 376 00:26:47,440 --> 00:26:52,650 It was just about his gut feeling as a surfer participating in an event. 377 00:26:52,820 --> 00:26:54,860 What spoke to you? 378 00:26:54,950 --> 00:26:58,740 Well there you go, round of applause for an incredible day of surfing. 379 00:27:01,160 --> 00:27:04,620 When you hear your name please come up here and cast your vote. 380 00:27:13,720 --> 00:27:17,680 I like the way the contest was organized but 381 00:27:17,850 --> 00:27:19,310 I didn't compete. 382 00:27:20,260 --> 00:27:26,060 For me big waves are about you and God. 383 00:27:29,820 --> 00:27:34,110 But of course it's amazing for the great community 384 00:27:34,280 --> 00:27:35,820 and I respect it a lot. 385 00:27:35,910 --> 00:27:41,370 Our tabulator here works quickly and first awards women's wave of the day. 386 00:27:41,450 --> 00:27:43,200 Over here, 387 00:27:43,370 --> 00:27:46,330 and it will go to Justine Dupont. 388 00:27:53,710 --> 00:27:56,260 The real trophy is getting that wave. 389 00:27:56,430 --> 00:28:00,300 We could question the need for a trophy in surfing? 390 00:28:00,470 --> 00:28:03,140 I mean don't get me wrong, it's nice to win some trophies of course. 391 00:28:04,390 --> 00:28:08,060 - Do you recall the wave of the day? - One was kind of special. 392 00:28:15,570 --> 00:28:19,200 But it's not about winning, it's about sharing. 393 00:28:19,370 --> 00:28:22,540 Maya, her wave was huge today as well. 394 00:28:23,370 --> 00:28:26,500 And tomorrow she will catch a bigger one than me. 395 00:28:26,660 --> 00:28:32,800 So I like this game. And we're helping push the limits together with the boys. 396 00:28:32,880 --> 00:28:38,760 So thanks for this, but yeah. Tomorrow I'll give it back to Maya. 397 00:28:38,930 --> 00:28:41,470 Thank you very much, merci. 398 00:28:43,600 --> 00:28:47,850 That brings us to the men's wave of the day. 399 00:28:48,020 --> 00:28:51,520 I think that this one, the wave did a lot of the work 400 00:28:51,610 --> 00:28:54,900 but the teamwork got the wave. 401 00:28:56,150 --> 00:28:59,610 So congratulations to Kai Lenny for the wave of the day. 402 00:29:03,080 --> 00:29:05,870 Kai, I want to ask you first. 403 00:29:05,950 --> 00:29:09,370 That wave was pretty special, you ended up splitting the peak with someone. 404 00:29:09,460 --> 00:29:12,670 I think it was Team Britain that was going on the left. 405 00:29:12,750 --> 00:29:16,630 And I yelled at Lucas, I'm like, let's go right and he's like, right, really? 406 00:29:16,800 --> 00:29:18,170 Because he was going to go straight to the cliff. 407 00:29:18,340 --> 00:29:19,720 And he just whipped me up 408 00:29:19,800 --> 00:29:23,140 and the wave was so smooth I didn't know how big it was behind me. 409 00:29:23,850 --> 00:29:27,520 If you were to ask any surfer to draw the perfect wave 410 00:29:27,680 --> 00:29:30,350 it would probably be something like that. 411 00:29:31,810 --> 00:29:34,400 - Wouldn't you agree? - Yeah. 412 00:29:34,570 --> 00:29:37,780 To be honest I remember seeing Kai on the right 413 00:29:37,860 --> 00:29:41,660 and I don't even remember seeing what happened on the left. 414 00:29:44,030 --> 00:29:45,950 That's how good the right was. 415 00:29:50,830 --> 00:29:52,210 Hindsight is 20/20 416 00:29:52,370 --> 00:29:55,630 and I've been on the other side of the stick as well where 417 00:29:55,710 --> 00:29:58,300 you could have gone on the wave of the day. 418 00:29:58,460 --> 00:30:00,930 I think it happens to every big wave surfer where 419 00:30:01,010 --> 00:30:05,260 he shoulda, coulda. But you just have to go back out there 420 00:30:05,430 --> 00:30:08,810 and hope you get another opportunity at it. 421 00:30:08,970 --> 00:30:10,140 Well you might stay up on the stage 422 00:30:10,230 --> 00:30:13,520 because the next one, you guys are the best team. 423 00:30:13,600 --> 00:30:15,400 You won the best team as well. 424 00:30:18,440 --> 00:30:21,200 One more round of applause for all the competitors. 425 00:30:21,360 --> 00:30:25,280 Did you guys ever figure out if your last wave was found or ever seen? 426 00:30:25,450 --> 00:30:29,040 Don't think there's any video. But there's a still. 427 00:30:30,790 --> 00:30:32,870 Which is nice. 428 00:30:33,500 --> 00:30:35,670 But there will be big waves tomorrow. 429 00:30:35,750 --> 00:30:37,670 Bigger waves Monday. 430 00:30:37,750 --> 00:30:40,630 It's just another wave. 431 00:30:41,970 --> 00:30:44,720 I've got to go. Alright. 432 00:30:46,010 --> 00:30:47,890 I'll see you in the morning. 433 00:30:48,060 --> 00:30:52,060 - Where is MacNamara? - No, he's gone. He's in there. 434 00:30:52,140 --> 00:30:54,190 Oh now that's right. 435 00:30:54,270 --> 00:30:58,520 I was thinking MacNamara wasn't there. I'm gonna give him a kiss. 436 00:30:58,610 --> 00:31:01,530 Hey you! He was there the whole time. 437 00:31:06,530 --> 00:31:08,910 I should have done the contest. 438 00:31:09,080 --> 00:31:12,120 There's a small percentage of me that wanted to. 439 00:31:15,920 --> 00:31:17,630 The teams are gonna get more organized, 440 00:31:17,710 --> 00:31:20,750 they're gonna figure out how to do better. 441 00:31:21,880 --> 00:31:24,010 And it's gonna get harder. It's just like the paddle contest. 442 00:31:24,090 --> 00:31:26,970 I should have done that the first year but I had a broken arm. 443 00:31:27,050 --> 00:31:29,890 Now this one I've got a broken foot. There's some 444 00:31:29,970 --> 00:31:34,100 weird little juju going on and I don't know what's wrong. 445 00:31:35,480 --> 00:31:38,900 Figure out what I'm doing wrong, or maybe I'm not doing anything wrong. 446 00:31:38,980 --> 00:31:40,480 I don't know. 447 00:31:43,740 --> 00:31:45,700 What would you have done though that no one else... 448 00:31:45,780 --> 00:31:48,870 I would have got barrel. Plain and simple, I would have got barrel. 449 00:31:48,950 --> 00:31:50,280 I would have found a right barrel 450 00:31:50,370 --> 00:31:53,450 and I would have gotten blown out of a monster barrel. 451 00:31:54,870 --> 00:31:57,750 And that's what would have won the whole thing. 452 00:32:05,170 --> 00:32:08,510 At 52 that would have been pretty inspiring. 453 00:32:13,810 --> 00:32:16,310 If it would have been perfect conditions 454 00:32:16,390 --> 00:32:20,150 Garrett would have surfed the contest. I think he was just feeling fear, 455 00:32:20,310 --> 00:32:22,730 fear of loss. 456 00:32:22,820 --> 00:32:25,150 Or fear of another injury. 457 00:32:26,320 --> 00:32:28,700 Garrett, ten years ago was like, 458 00:32:28,860 --> 00:32:31,700 he wanted every wave under the sun. 459 00:32:33,120 --> 00:32:35,750 He was hungry. 460 00:32:36,580 --> 00:32:37,790 But now 461 00:32:38,750 --> 00:32:43,880 the growing fear of wipeouts, the impacts, the dangers. 462 00:32:45,260 --> 00:32:47,800 Garrett's had a lot. He's had more than most. 463 00:32:47,970 --> 00:32:49,340 He's had a lot of beatings. 464 00:32:50,180 --> 00:32:52,010 Oh my god. 465 00:32:55,770 --> 00:32:59,350 The last four years he had an injury and he hasn't surfed as much. 466 00:33:01,060 --> 00:33:02,940 Before I got hurt 467 00:33:03,110 --> 00:33:06,240 I really enjoyed being underwater, enjoyed getting pounded, 468 00:33:06,320 --> 00:33:08,400 and enjoyed every moment. 469 00:33:08,570 --> 00:33:12,160 And Maverick's smacked me down. 470 00:33:13,080 --> 00:33:18,500 The pain was so severe for so long that it changed my outlook a bit. 471 00:33:21,380 --> 00:33:25,500 And then in G-Land during that wipeout 472 00:33:25,590 --> 00:33:26,880 it was spooky getting pounded 473 00:33:27,050 --> 00:33:30,800 and thinking about my family while I'm under water. 474 00:33:30,970 --> 00:33:35,390 Not being there for them definitely weighs on you a bit. 475 00:33:37,180 --> 00:33:40,560 Big wave surfing is one of the most challenging sports one can undertake 476 00:33:40,730 --> 00:33:43,560 because no matter how good you really are 477 00:33:43,730 --> 00:33:47,070 you're going to reach a situation that'll 478 00:33:47,230 --> 00:33:49,900 nearly send you into oblivion. 479 00:33:50,650 --> 00:33:55,240 The fear that comes into big wave surfing. There's fear for your life. 480 00:33:55,410 --> 00:33:57,660 You can't go out into the sea and not be scared. 481 00:33:57,830 --> 00:34:00,370 Fear is an ever present emotion. 482 00:34:01,540 --> 00:34:03,880 Yet you have to go out into certain conditions. 483 00:34:03,960 --> 00:34:08,630 You have obligations to yourself to your own drive. 484 00:34:09,550 --> 00:34:11,760 Whenever you let go of the tow rope to catch a wave 485 00:34:11,840 --> 00:34:14,390 you don't know what's coming next. 486 00:34:14,470 --> 00:34:16,310 You have no control over these elements. 487 00:34:16,390 --> 00:34:19,140 The only control you've got is of yourself. 488 00:34:19,220 --> 00:34:20,850 There's nervous energy there, 489 00:34:20,930 --> 00:34:24,190 but then there's a moment in time where it just disappears. 490 00:34:24,270 --> 00:34:27,570 A deathly calm comes over you and the fear 491 00:34:27,730 --> 00:34:29,280 completely drains. 492 00:34:31,030 --> 00:34:34,110 We know it's a sense of flying, it's like being a bird. 493 00:34:34,200 --> 00:34:36,280 We know it's all consuming like 494 00:34:36,450 --> 00:34:39,120 you're not thinking about anything else. 495 00:34:39,200 --> 00:34:43,080 You're completely absorbed in the moment, time goes slow you know? 496 00:34:43,250 --> 00:34:45,040 A second probably equates to more like ten seconds. 497 00:34:46,590 --> 00:34:50,630 You are present. Intensely present. You are a human being against 498 00:34:50,800 --> 00:34:53,470 the wave and against the challenge. 499 00:34:53,550 --> 00:34:57,300 You become part of something that is greater than you. 500 00:34:57,390 --> 00:34:59,390 Part of nature, part of the universe. 501 00:35:01,350 --> 00:35:04,900 And you're just riding, surfing, flying. 502 00:35:05,060 --> 00:35:06,440 Voila. 503 00:35:06,610 --> 00:35:10,530 It's the closest I've ever felt to euphoria. 504 00:35:11,690 --> 00:35:15,910 I feel like I'm Icarus and I'm getting so close to the sun 505 00:35:16,990 --> 00:35:20,790 but my wax wings haven't melted just yet. 506 00:35:21,870 --> 00:35:24,790 They're putting their life on the line every day when they go there. 507 00:35:24,870 --> 00:35:28,590 Every wave can be their last wave. 508 00:35:28,750 --> 00:35:33,170 It's what makes them feel alive. 509 00:35:34,130 --> 00:35:38,180 It is magical and I think once you get a connection with the ocean 510 00:35:38,260 --> 00:35:40,560 I think it can be with you forever. 511 00:35:40,720 --> 00:35:45,440 That feeling is the feeling I think you end up chasing for your whole life. 512 00:35:45,520 --> 00:35:47,770 I've been surfing now for 33 years 513 00:35:47,940 --> 00:35:50,190 and I'm still chasing that same wave. 514 00:35:51,190 --> 00:35:54,280 And that's why we pursue it. That's why we do it our whole life. 515 00:35:54,360 --> 00:35:57,240 That's why we fly around the world. Because there's no one 516 00:35:57,410 --> 00:36:01,540 alive that when riding a wave wouldn't experience that feeling 517 00:36:02,330 --> 00:36:06,710 and not want to go back out and spend their whole life doing it. 518 00:36:15,130 --> 00:36:18,300 Two days after WSL Challenge 519 00:36:32,770 --> 00:36:36,070 We were trying to do these remote control jet skis that we set up 520 00:36:36,150 --> 00:36:41,410 and we were attempting to capture the wave from a bunch of different angles. 521 00:36:41,490 --> 00:36:42,870 And then in the midst of all of that, 522 00:36:43,030 --> 00:36:45,660 Garrett I think decided to catch a wave all of a sudden. 523 00:36:45,750 --> 00:36:48,580 I'm looking up and there's perfect smooth rights on the 3rd and 4th peak. 524 00:36:48,670 --> 00:36:52,000 And that's like a dream, it's just so fun. 525 00:36:52,170 --> 00:36:54,340 I'm thinking okay I'm gonna go take Cotty on a couple of waves 526 00:36:54,500 --> 00:36:56,300 and then he's like man, do you want one? 527 00:36:56,380 --> 00:36:58,970 I almost want one. My foot was kind of swollen. 528 00:36:59,050 --> 00:37:00,800 I'll get you one if you want. 529 00:37:00,890 --> 00:37:03,680 I'm like... Okay. 530 00:37:04,470 --> 00:37:08,980 It's been four years since he had a really big wave. 531 00:37:15,900 --> 00:37:19,030 Let's all follow our hearts. Everything will go great. 532 00:37:20,660 --> 00:37:22,570 I get on the rope and there's the set. 533 00:37:31,750 --> 00:37:33,590 There's Garrett. 534 00:37:39,130 --> 00:37:42,180 Fear is something we choose. 535 00:37:44,140 --> 00:37:47,600 Fear is when we're not in the moment. 536 00:37:52,230 --> 00:37:56,690 When we choose to think about the past or think about the future. 537 00:37:56,780 --> 00:37:59,190 Two things that don't exist. 538 00:38:02,070 --> 00:38:06,530 For the big waves the only thing that exists is right now. 539 00:38:42,450 --> 00:38:44,610 He got a bomb wave 540 00:38:44,700 --> 00:38:46,780 but then it was disaster. 541 00:38:50,950 --> 00:38:52,750 We got pounded. 542 00:38:55,460 --> 00:38:56,880 He went over the fall. 543 00:39:04,220 --> 00:39:06,590 And then he got washed up on the beach. 544 00:39:06,680 --> 00:39:10,520 I saw him on the beach on his knees there and I thought he was hurt. 545 00:39:10,600 --> 00:39:12,020 He just got a horrific wipeout. 546 00:39:12,100 --> 00:39:16,400 He got two big waves on the head, held under for 35-40 seconds. 547 00:39:17,310 --> 00:39:19,440 And he came back smiling. 548 00:39:37,710 --> 00:39:42,260 Five years I don't get pounded so... It feel so good. 549 00:39:49,140 --> 00:39:52,060 I've been letting fear consume me. 550 00:39:52,220 --> 00:39:55,480 I wasn't sure if I enjoyed being under water anymore. 551 00:39:55,560 --> 00:39:57,650 I really enjoyed it. 552 00:39:58,810 --> 00:40:01,320 Yeah when I saw that big white water coming at me I wasn't afraid 553 00:40:01,400 --> 00:40:05,030 and I went over the falls and I wasn't afraid. 554 00:40:05,700 --> 00:40:08,160 It was like back to normal. Pretty cool. 555 00:40:09,530 --> 00:40:14,290 It was so good that that happened. It was a sense of relief. 556 00:40:22,670 --> 00:40:24,590 And where does the fear sit now? 557 00:40:26,300 --> 00:40:28,380 The fear? 558 00:40:28,470 --> 00:40:31,970 Well as of now I feel the fear has disappeared. 559 00:40:33,010 --> 00:40:36,270 Yeah. Gman is back. 560 00:40:38,770 --> 00:40:42,690 Look at how good it is up there. Oh I might have to go back out. 561 00:40:45,150 --> 00:40:47,780 I think the spark is back, Garrett's back 562 00:40:47,950 --> 00:40:49,570 and he's gonna ride a 100-foot wave here. 563 00:40:52,030 --> 00:40:55,240 If the 100-foot day comes and the conditions are right, 564 00:40:55,410 --> 00:40:58,460 I'll definitely go out there and ride it. There's no doubt about that. 565 00:41:01,130 --> 00:41:02,880 Thank you all! 566 00:41:07,590 --> 00:41:09,680 Welcome to Nazar�. 567 00:41:11,510 --> 00:41:15,600 Never a dull moment. Thank you very very much. 568 00:41:17,560 --> 00:41:19,560 ONE MONTH LATER 569 00:41:19,640 --> 00:41:20,850 Breaking news, stay at home, 570 00:41:21,020 --> 00:41:23,520 that is the order tonight from four state governors. 571 00:41:23,690 --> 00:41:27,280 Governor David Ige announcing a mandatory 2-week quarantine 572 00:41:27,360 --> 00:41:32,280 for all travelers arriving in Hawaii beginning Thursday, March 26th. 573 00:41:32,370 --> 00:41:33,990 Now this will not apply to... 574 00:41:38,960 --> 00:41:42,290 My foot's all better. No pain at all. 575 00:41:48,170 --> 00:41:52,550 This is probably the longest we've ever been home. 576 00:41:52,720 --> 00:41:54,470 That's cilantro. 577 00:41:56,350 --> 00:41:57,720 What's this one? 578 00:41:59,020 --> 00:42:01,640 Sage. Wow. 579 00:42:01,730 --> 00:42:05,690 Sometimes it's great and other times it's not great. 580 00:42:09,740 --> 00:42:12,860 Being trapped with my family 581 00:42:13,030 --> 00:42:14,160 has been interesting. 582 00:42:15,370 --> 00:42:20,120 It's been beautiful just surfing regular waves and fun waves 583 00:42:20,200 --> 00:42:24,330 and just slowing down enough and remembering to enjoy it. 584 00:42:25,920 --> 00:42:29,170 Garrett's also connecting with what's important 585 00:42:29,340 --> 00:42:30,800 to himself and his life. 586 00:42:32,340 --> 00:42:36,640 I've actually been relaxing with the family. 587 00:42:38,310 --> 00:42:42,600 Definitely starting appreciating everything out of the water more. 588 00:42:42,690 --> 00:42:47,480 Not having to base everything on the next ride and 589 00:42:48,820 --> 00:42:52,070 needing that fix, that rush. 590 00:42:52,240 --> 00:42:55,280 The best time of my life right now. The best time. 591 00:42:55,450 --> 00:42:56,910 Me come. 592 00:42:56,990 --> 00:42:59,200 You're gonna get on the jetski. 593 00:43:00,490 --> 00:43:03,870 - Do you wanna go with Sparrow? - Yeah, Daddy. 594 00:43:11,510 --> 00:43:13,220 Can't remember when I was home for this long. 595 00:43:14,340 --> 00:43:17,430 The work thing is eliminated 596 00:43:17,600 --> 00:43:21,060 and I get to enjoy time with the kids. 597 00:43:23,230 --> 00:43:26,810 But at the same time, as soon as Portugal is open for surfing again, 598 00:43:26,900 --> 00:43:31,190 I want to get back down there. It's what I've got to be doing. 599 00:43:33,530 --> 00:43:35,860 I actually miss Nazar� very much right now. 600 00:43:36,030 --> 00:43:39,620 The only thing I'm missing from this quarantine, we're supposed to be there. 601 00:43:40,200 --> 00:43:43,830 As soon as we can go back, we're going back. 602 00:43:45,330 --> 00:43:47,960 I'll probably be more prepared than I've ever been. 603 00:43:48,960 --> 00:43:52,050 Definitely the best shape that I've been in since I got injured. 604 00:43:54,050 --> 00:43:59,550 My body's strong enough, my ligaments, my tendons, the muscles are all solid. 605 00:44:00,260 --> 00:44:02,640 Shoulders and foot are ready. 606 00:44:02,720 --> 00:44:04,310 He's looking good and feeling good and 607 00:44:04,480 --> 00:44:07,270 he was out there surfing today and he got some waves. 608 00:44:10,820 --> 00:44:13,990 I couldn't get off the bottom and the board was going like this. 609 00:44:14,070 --> 00:44:16,450 I hit the bottom really hard 610 00:44:16,530 --> 00:44:20,530 and then I kicked off the bottom like superman. 611 00:44:22,030 --> 00:44:23,870 Training for the next season is continuous 612 00:44:23,950 --> 00:44:27,670 and I want to be ready physically, mentally. 613 00:44:27,750 --> 00:44:31,420 I think Garett's been a really positive role model in that 614 00:44:31,590 --> 00:44:33,880 you can surf big waves into your fifties. 615 00:44:33,960 --> 00:44:39,090 It's inspiring to me to keep fit and keep injury free. Keep focused. 616 00:44:39,260 --> 00:44:42,600 Cotty's ready. Cotty wants it, 100%. 617 00:44:42,760 --> 00:44:44,680 If it comes and Cotty's there, he wants it. 618 00:44:44,770 --> 00:44:47,980 And I really feel it going to Cotty 619 00:44:48,140 --> 00:44:50,400 because he's given me all of my best waves. 620 00:44:51,610 --> 00:44:54,650 How many 100-foot waves have ever broken on the planet Earth? 621 00:44:54,730 --> 00:44:57,030 Ten? Twenty? Thirty? Thousands? 622 00:44:58,110 --> 00:45:00,780 There's a lot of luck involved with big wave surfing 623 00:45:00,870 --> 00:45:03,660 but you make your own luck, don't you? 624 00:45:06,160 --> 00:45:10,620 CJ, if he wants it then it could easily come to him. 625 00:45:12,630 --> 00:45:16,260 I definitely could. I know that I can. 626 00:45:16,420 --> 00:45:20,760 Sometimes I don't want to. Just 'cause 627 00:45:21,550 --> 00:45:23,970 maybe there's some fear and I think, 628 00:45:24,050 --> 00:45:28,890 okay, one little bump the wrong way and I'm paying the price. 629 00:45:30,390 --> 00:45:34,730 But most of the time, seeing those big, massive waves when it's good... 630 00:45:34,900 --> 00:45:36,860 Most of the time I want to. 631 00:45:38,030 --> 00:45:41,490 And I'm feeling energized to go back to Nazar� for sure. 632 00:45:50,370 --> 00:45:53,960 When Garrett started surfing big waves I'm sure he was 633 00:45:54,130 --> 00:45:57,210 only one of a handful of people on the planet 634 00:45:57,300 --> 00:46:01,260 that wanted to surf 100-foot waves. Now I think he's inspired 635 00:46:01,430 --> 00:46:04,640 a whole new generation and a whole new group of people 636 00:46:04,800 --> 00:46:07,100 to want to go ride these giant waves. 637 00:46:07,260 --> 00:46:09,730 Especially the 100-footer. 638 00:46:09,890 --> 00:46:12,020 Hats down honestly and thank you to him. 639 00:46:12,100 --> 00:46:14,150 Because he opened up a path for all of us. 640 00:46:14,310 --> 00:46:20,820 Thanks to him we can all have these experiences and share these emotions. 641 00:46:20,990 --> 00:46:24,990 That's awesome. So thank you, Garrett. 642 00:46:26,160 --> 00:46:28,200 There's no doubt with Nazar� coming onto the scene 643 00:46:28,370 --> 00:46:30,660 that 100-foot waves are definitely achievable. 644 00:46:30,750 --> 00:46:33,080 And I think we all know that there's bigger waves out there 645 00:46:33,170 --> 00:46:36,420 and at some point in time somebody will ride one. 646 00:46:36,590 --> 00:46:41,050 The 100-foot wave is going to be a 120-foot wave when somebody rides it. 647 00:46:41,130 --> 00:46:43,880 And if it's not Garrett, I hope it's me. 648 00:46:46,300 --> 00:46:50,770 I don't like to get too attached to 649 00:46:50,930 --> 00:46:54,350 numbers, goals and things. 650 00:46:54,520 --> 00:46:58,270 I want to perform really well, but I don't want to be greedy. 651 00:46:59,820 --> 00:47:03,150 In September, the WSL recognized Maya's Tow Challengd wave 652 00:47:03,240 --> 00:47:06,160 as the bigfest surfed by a man or a woman in 2020. 653 00:47:06,240 --> 00:47:10,870 The wave measured 73.5 feet, breaking her own world record. 654 00:47:12,370 --> 00:47:15,750 Surfers always have travelled in search of waves. 655 00:47:17,000 --> 00:47:20,920 In hopes of finding something incredible 656 00:47:21,010 --> 00:47:25,220 that might be greater than any of the waves that we've ever ridden. 657 00:47:25,300 --> 00:47:29,560 That's what we do, that's what we've done, and that's what we'll always do. 658 00:47:34,440 --> 00:47:37,730 When we met you, Garrett was talking about the 100-foot wave. 659 00:47:37,810 --> 00:47:40,360 Do you think after this last year and a half, 660 00:47:40,440 --> 00:47:43,990 do you think that's still the goal? Or do you think it's changed? 661 00:47:45,450 --> 00:47:47,610 You know what? I don't know. 662 00:47:49,990 --> 00:47:51,870 I haven't gotten to the bottom of it yet. 663 00:47:51,950 --> 00:47:57,080 - Let me get... - No, I need help because it's small. 664 00:47:57,170 --> 00:47:59,130 - To catch the wave? - Yeah. 665 00:47:59,210 --> 00:48:04,720 But I can imagine if that swell that we've always known could come, comes 666 00:48:05,670 --> 00:48:08,590 I don't think that there's any way that he'd be able to stay out of the water. 667 00:48:08,760 --> 00:48:11,310 If it's perfect conditions, he's gonna go. 668 00:48:15,680 --> 00:48:17,560 This is the 100-foot wave. 669 00:48:17,730 --> 00:48:20,060 Life is the 100-foot wave. 670 00:48:20,150 --> 00:48:22,900 This right here is the 100-foot wave. 671 00:48:29,240 --> 00:48:31,780 He was saying the 100-foot wave is right now. 672 00:48:31,950 --> 00:48:33,450 Yeah. 673 00:48:35,000 --> 00:48:39,330 Yeah, I think it's definitely changing for him. I don't know if it's 674 00:48:39,420 --> 00:48:41,000 old age or what 675 00:48:41,170 --> 00:48:44,590 but he seems a lot more content. 676 00:48:44,760 --> 00:48:47,880 Go, go, go. Yes, yes, yes. 677 00:48:57,890 --> 00:48:59,730 If you can live life 678 00:48:59,900 --> 00:49:03,360 like you're riding 100-foot waves all day every day 679 00:49:05,530 --> 00:49:09,280 you're gonna have really amazing days. 58016

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