Would you like to inspect the original subtitles? These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated:
1
00:00:55,100 --> 00:00:58,350
Good morning and
welcome to Nazar� in Portugal.
2
00:00:59,350 --> 00:01:01,520
The World's Surf League's
Big Wave Tour
3
00:01:01,690 --> 00:01:05,480
now brings its focus
to the shores of Western Europe.
4
00:01:05,650 --> 00:01:08,200
Where's the limit?
We're gonna find out.
5
00:01:08,360 --> 00:01:12,870
The World's Surf League runs surfing
competitions all around the world.
6
00:01:15,370 --> 00:01:20,960
And most of those events are held in
waves that will be from 2 to 6 feet.
7
00:01:21,130 --> 00:01:23,380
The offshoot of it is
the Big Wave Tour,
8
00:01:24,210 --> 00:01:27,800
where the waves need to be at least
9
00:01:27,970 --> 00:01:30,680
35 feet on the face
and preferably bigger.
10
00:01:30,840 --> 00:01:34,220
A humongous wave.
Pulling into a big barrel.
11
00:01:34,390 --> 00:01:39,060
Nazar� has been an incredible resource
for running Big Waves.
12
00:01:39,140 --> 00:01:40,810
That's because there are
so many big waves.
13
00:01:41,980 --> 00:01:44,480
We've put on three editions
14
00:01:44,650 --> 00:01:47,070
of the Nazar� challenge
as a paddle event
15
00:01:47,230 --> 00:01:48,490
and it was radical.
16
00:01:48,650 --> 00:01:51,450
I remember going there
for the Nazar� challenge,
17
00:01:51,610 --> 00:01:53,490
paddle and surfing competition.
18
00:01:53,660 --> 00:01:56,200
And I remember seeing
these giant waves and going,
19
00:01:56,370 --> 00:01:58,910
how did I get myself into this mess?
20
00:02:00,160 --> 00:02:02,540
The night before the competition
I was laying in my bed going,
21
00:02:02,710 --> 00:02:05,750
I really hope I don't die tomorrow.
22
00:02:13,340 --> 00:02:15,220
The reality of it is
23
00:02:15,800 --> 00:02:19,430
we had too many days where the waves
were just too big to paddle.
24
00:02:20,390 --> 00:02:25,020
Oh no! Over the handlebars
so to speak. And take a wipeout.
25
00:02:25,190 --> 00:02:29,650
Oh my gosh!
Getting bsolutely steam rolled.
26
00:02:29,820 --> 00:02:35,160
World champions were just terrified of
it and were just getting destroyed.
27
00:02:36,410 --> 00:02:39,500
After that we decided maybe tow surfing
28
00:02:39,660 --> 00:02:44,670
is the right format for this spot
because it's never too big.
29
00:02:46,340 --> 00:02:48,300
I ended up surviving the event
30
00:02:48,380 --> 00:02:51,670
but I was like, I'm okay
without ever coming here.
31
00:02:51,760 --> 00:02:54,300
Pretty much all my friends from Hawaii
were like,
32
00:02:54,470 --> 00:02:56,350
we're not coming back here ever again.
33
00:02:56,510 --> 00:03:00,020
And it's odd because
over the years it's completely changed
34
00:03:00,100 --> 00:03:04,390
and now I long to go to a place
like Nazar�. I love Nazar�.
35
00:03:04,480 --> 00:03:06,440
It's one of my favorite Big Waves
in the world because
36
00:03:06,520 --> 00:03:10,110
it's such a challenge and I've just
decided to accept that challenge.
37
00:03:15,110 --> 00:03:19,490
Check out these monster 100-foot waves
off Portugal.
38
00:03:19,580 --> 00:03:23,710
The biggest wave ever surfed.
As high as 100 feet.
39
00:03:23,870 --> 00:03:27,250
To put it in perspective, that is
taller than an 8-story building.
40
00:03:27,330 --> 00:03:30,550
Surfers are always looking for
the next great thing.
41
00:03:30,710 --> 00:03:34,550
It often breaks those
brave or crazy board riders.
42
00:03:34,720 --> 00:03:38,180
Severe white routes and waves
of mind-boggling heights.
43
00:03:38,260 --> 00:03:41,180
What happens here,
happens nowhere else in the world.
44
00:03:41,270 --> 00:03:42,850
The biggest wave ever surfed.
45
00:03:42,930 --> 00:03:45,730
The biggest wave ever.
46
00:03:45,890 --> 00:03:47,310
100-foot wave.
47
00:03:47,480 --> 00:03:52,990
100 FOOT WAVE.
48
00:03:53,070 --> 00:03:57,240
CHAPTER VI
ICARUS
49
00:04:00,330 --> 00:04:04,410
Nazar� Tow Surfing Challenge
February 11, 2020
50
00:04:06,000 --> 00:04:10,040
The Nazar� Tow Surfing Challenge really
was the first event of its kind ever.
51
00:04:10,920 --> 00:04:17,130
A performance oriented, purely
tow surfing competitive event.
52
00:04:17,300 --> 00:04:20,050
At this arena
53
00:04:20,510 --> 00:04:23,970
where thousands of people
were watching.
54
00:04:24,680 --> 00:04:28,150
Welcome back to live action
from the Nazar� Tow Surf Challenge.
55
00:04:28,310 --> 00:04:30,560
The prize out here today
is the best ride.
56
00:04:30,730 --> 00:04:34,190
We are on the way to heat,
one hour long.
57
00:04:35,070 --> 00:04:39,610
Our goal with the format for the
Nazar� Tow Surfing challenge was
58
00:04:39,780 --> 00:04:42,620
to have as much action going on
as possible
59
00:04:42,700 --> 00:04:45,580
without jet skis crashing
into each other
60
00:04:45,750 --> 00:04:48,790
and too much going on
where you lose track of the surfers.
61
00:04:48,870 --> 00:04:52,000
So we had a priority system that
had never been used before
62
00:04:52,090 --> 00:04:55,300
where we had a big screen on the side
of the lighthouse
63
00:04:55,380 --> 00:04:57,050
and a judge that would say hey,
64
00:04:57,220 --> 00:05:00,180
once you caught a wave basically
you go to the end of the line.
65
00:05:00,340 --> 00:05:02,970
Back is clear.
66
00:05:03,970 --> 00:05:07,430
Here we go. Andrew Cotton,
from Great Britain, a big fade.
67
00:05:07,600 --> 00:05:11,350
He did ride that wave really well,
he put himself in a great position.
68
00:05:11,440 --> 00:05:15,280
And that is Lucas Chianca,
massive wedge of a peak.
69
00:05:16,190 --> 00:05:18,990
Look at this scene, this is one of the
biggest waves we've seen.
70
00:05:19,150 --> 00:05:22,280
Tom Butler that was.
That was a very, very tall one.
71
00:05:23,410 --> 00:05:25,580
Kai Lenny got involved.
72
00:05:25,660 --> 00:05:28,830
What you can expect from him,
he's gonna do stuff like that.
73
00:05:28,910 --> 00:05:31,290
Complete spin, 360 degrees.
74
00:05:31,370 --> 00:05:36,170
Lands with control and then
drops back in and loses control.
75
00:05:36,250 --> 00:05:38,380
Oh and what a tumble.
76
00:05:38,470 --> 00:05:41,130
Wow, that was crazy stuff.
77
00:05:41,300 --> 00:05:43,390
There were thousands
and thousands of people.
78
00:05:43,470 --> 00:05:47,220
That was pretty astonishing
just to see that amount of people.
79
00:05:47,390 --> 00:05:50,100
I felt like a gladiator in Thunderdome.
80
00:05:50,940 --> 00:05:53,360
We're over here to see Andrew surf
81
00:05:53,520 --> 00:05:56,860
for the first time.
Andrew Cotton that is.
82
00:05:57,610 --> 00:06:01,070
I've seen him scores of times on video
and TV
83
00:06:01,240 --> 00:06:04,780
but never actually being here.
So it's amazing to see it.
84
00:06:04,950 --> 00:06:07,910
We've got to manifest
one really good wave for Cotty
85
00:06:07,990 --> 00:06:10,330
and one really good wave for Tom
in this next scene.
86
00:06:10,410 --> 00:06:12,710
I'm gonna go up there to study so that
I can call the wave.
87
00:06:12,870 --> 00:06:14,540
First speed, first speed.
88
00:06:14,710 --> 00:06:17,170
Here we go, doubles.
89
00:06:17,250 --> 00:06:21,130
Yes, here we go,
we've got Cotty on the inside.
90
00:06:35,230 --> 00:06:39,030
That is a massive wave.
91
00:06:39,190 --> 00:06:42,610
She has her wings out,
stabilizing herself.
92
00:06:48,370 --> 00:06:52,000
She is next level.
I could see her winning actually.
93
00:06:52,080 --> 00:06:54,870
Beating all the guys.
I would love that.
94
00:07:04,180 --> 00:07:07,550
Justine Dupont, you just surfed your
half hour heat, how was it out there?
95
00:07:07,640 --> 00:07:11,930
I was so lucky, I got a really nice
wave at the beginning of the heat,
96
00:07:12,020 --> 00:07:16,310
so then we were pretty confident
and just having fun.
97
00:07:16,480 --> 00:07:18,940
We surf those big waves every day.
98
00:07:20,780 --> 00:07:26,450
The difference is that
it was broadcast live.
99
00:07:27,160 --> 00:07:30,830
I loved being able to share that
with everyone.
100
00:07:30,910 --> 00:07:32,330
Tell us about the conditions today.
101
00:07:32,410 --> 00:07:34,580
Is this everything you'd hoped for
for the event to run?
102
00:07:34,660 --> 00:07:37,540
Yeah it's really good.
There's not that much wind,
103
00:07:37,630 --> 00:07:41,630
so we are not used to having
this condition, that perfect.
104
00:07:41,800 --> 00:07:44,300
Right now I'd like to be in the water,
yeah.
105
00:07:44,380 --> 00:07:45,720
Because it's so smooth.
106
00:07:46,720 --> 00:07:49,350
This is the kind of day
that I live for.
107
00:07:52,680 --> 00:07:56,350
- It looks like Maya Gabeira.
- This wave's got a wall on it.
108
00:07:56,440 --> 00:07:59,980
This is the kind of wave you want
if you can get around that.
109
00:08:03,570 --> 00:08:07,910
Now she's gonna deal with
some white water here.
110
00:08:07,990 --> 00:08:11,830
The noise and the power that exploded
all around me.
111
00:08:11,990 --> 00:08:14,370
I don't know how I would have reacted
on a free surf
112
00:08:14,540 --> 00:08:17,870
but because I was competing I saw that
bomb and didn't even think about it.
113
00:08:17,960 --> 00:08:21,170
I went all the way to the bottom and
then I saw that there was no way
114
00:08:21,250 --> 00:08:25,630
that I was going to be able to turn
at that point. I just held on.
115
00:08:25,720 --> 00:08:29,550
The explosion of white water
gets the better of Maya.
116
00:08:29,640 --> 00:08:31,350
I got really lucky because
117
00:08:31,430 --> 00:08:35,350
I just had enough that I was thrown
forward and not down.
118
00:08:36,230 --> 00:08:40,440
And now we get to see Sebastian
and his ability to get in.
119
00:08:42,520 --> 00:08:45,440
And there's the pickup for Maya,
all good.
120
00:08:45,530 --> 00:08:48,660
I just got so close to something
so scary
121
00:08:48,740 --> 00:08:52,080
that I must say that it took
a lot of my confidence away.
122
00:08:52,240 --> 00:08:55,200
I was one athlete up until that point,
123
00:08:55,290 --> 00:08:58,870
and then I became another athlete for
the other part of the competition.
124
00:08:58,960 --> 00:09:02,960
Where I was like, I don't want
to play that close to fire, you know?
125
00:09:03,040 --> 00:09:07,630
I want to surf well but this is not
worth my life.
126
00:09:10,640 --> 00:09:13,390
Where are you guys?
127
00:09:17,640 --> 00:09:19,890
We're still riding.
128
00:09:20,060 --> 00:09:21,860
Spotting is really tough.
129
00:09:22,020 --> 00:09:26,280
Really tough. I'm just trying to study
the waves so I could choose better.
130
00:09:26,440 --> 00:09:29,570
It's so challenging
to pick the right wave.
131
00:09:29,650 --> 00:09:32,240
I've got a lot of sympathy
for the spotters.
132
00:09:33,700 --> 00:09:35,830
We're running on a big one.
133
00:09:39,120 --> 00:09:41,750
Can you tell me where red is?
Where's red?
134
00:09:41,830 --> 00:09:45,090
I know he found it more difficult
than what he envisioned
135
00:09:45,170 --> 00:09:47,920
and I think that's probably because
he's used to being out in the sea.
136
00:09:48,090 --> 00:09:51,510
When you're in the water
you're more focused on
137
00:09:51,590 --> 00:09:55,010
just what's around you,
not every aspect of that.
138
00:09:55,180 --> 00:09:58,100
Red's first priority now? Yeah?
139
00:09:58,180 --> 00:10:00,020
You guys have priority.
Wait for the bottom.
140
00:10:00,100 --> 00:10:02,770
There's a second bottom coming.
A second set is coming.
141
00:10:02,850 --> 00:10:06,730
Tell Cotty I'll let you guys know
if it's a good right.
142
00:10:06,820 --> 00:10:09,820
The rights are hollow and amazing.
143
00:10:09,900 --> 00:10:12,740
If it's a good right,
tell him to go right.
144
00:10:14,620 --> 00:10:18,580
You guys are a priority.
This next wave is really good.
145
00:10:19,790 --> 00:10:23,000
I was surfing and Garrett's called
theway on the radio
146
00:10:23,170 --> 00:10:26,040
and it was a left hander
and a right hander.
147
00:10:26,130 --> 00:10:28,840
It was a perfect pick,
you could have gone any way.
148
00:10:29,010 --> 00:10:31,420
We were down at like
5th priority at this point.
149
00:10:32,430 --> 00:10:37,060
We saw the other team going and we had
to wait to see what they did first.
150
00:10:37,680 --> 00:10:40,600
I was just looking left, I didn't see
what was going on behind me,
151
00:10:40,680 --> 00:10:41,770
over my shoulder on the right.
152
00:10:43,310 --> 00:10:45,940
When we figured out that they were
going left,
153
00:10:46,110 --> 00:10:47,440
oh scoot me on the right.
154
00:10:50,740 --> 00:10:52,280
Left, left, left, left.
155
00:11:03,710 --> 00:11:05,170
That was fine?
156
00:11:08,250 --> 00:11:10,250
I just had this wave
that just was
157
00:11:10,340 --> 00:11:14,550
that wave that everyone draws
during their algebra class.
158
00:11:14,630 --> 00:11:17,640
This perfect 70-foot barrel.
159
00:11:21,640 --> 00:11:24,770
I'd have to say from the last wave
it looks like you had fun out there.
160
00:11:24,850 --> 00:11:29,480
Yeah it's super fun and it's super sick
to just be here right now.
161
00:11:30,020 --> 00:11:34,110
Both Lucas and I want to ride like an
80-footer if one eventually comes in.
162
00:11:34,280 --> 00:11:37,370
Well are you ready to go? You seem to
be in the nominations so far,
163
00:11:37,450 --> 00:11:39,080
to keep going with the rest of
the event.
164
00:11:40,410 --> 00:11:43,870
FINAL HEAT
165
00:11:45,120 --> 00:11:49,170
There's tons of waves. Don't worry.
There's tons of waves.
166
00:11:49,340 --> 00:11:53,090
Can you hear Cotty on the radio
or can you hear me?
167
00:11:53,260 --> 00:11:58,550
We can hear you when you talk but all
we hear is... when you're not talking.
168
00:11:59,350 --> 00:12:02,140
He knew that he was losing it
towards the end.
169
00:12:05,100 --> 00:12:08,020
Left inside, go, go, go.
Way over, way over.
170
00:12:08,190 --> 00:12:09,400
This next wave is the wave.
171
00:12:09,560 --> 00:12:11,610
That's where you don't want to be.
172
00:12:12,400 --> 00:12:16,740
Here and there, right and left.
It's like classic Garrett.
173
00:12:17,450 --> 00:12:19,620
How much time?
174
00:12:22,660 --> 00:12:25,160
Two minutes guys,
let's get you on the nugget.
175
00:12:26,910 --> 00:12:29,290
There is a big set coming,
there is a big set coming.
176
00:12:29,460 --> 00:12:31,540
Get on the rope, get on the rope.
177
00:12:32,960 --> 00:12:36,760
This is the wave, this is
the magic wave. Go for this wave.
178
00:12:39,760 --> 00:12:40,970
What?
179
00:12:42,010 --> 00:12:46,020
Towards the end of that final heat
I was towing fronting into a wave
180
00:12:46,180 --> 00:12:50,770
and then it kind of came across
the radio,
181
00:12:50,860 --> 00:12:52,650
skis down, skis down.
182
00:13:00,360 --> 00:13:01,950
We lost the ski, we lost the ski.
183
00:13:04,540 --> 00:13:10,540
Alex and Hugo were on the inside,
they didn't have backup safety.
184
00:13:10,630 --> 00:13:14,340
They were going back out
and there was this whitewater
185
00:13:14,420 --> 00:13:16,340
and then a sideways wave.
186
00:13:16,420 --> 00:13:20,340
And they flew over the sideways and
landed sideways.
187
00:13:20,430 --> 00:13:22,140
Hit the ski really hard,
188
00:13:22,300 --> 00:13:25,350
and I think Alex knocked out on impact.
189
00:13:26,520 --> 00:13:29,600
And then both of them were in the water
190
00:13:29,690 --> 00:13:33,190
and Hugo's there
trying to get back on the ski.
191
00:13:40,910 --> 00:13:43,870
And they're still under water.
Not popping up.
192
00:13:44,490 --> 00:13:48,580
Then everybody realized this piece of
foam that they saw floating
193
00:13:48,750 --> 00:13:52,000
wasn't just a piece of foam
or a life jacket, it was Alex.
194
00:13:52,170 --> 00:13:53,330
There he is, there he is.
195
00:14:00,470 --> 00:14:07,140
During the event I was the safety
driver for any necessary situation.
196
00:14:07,310 --> 00:14:10,060
Alemao Edilson Luis Da Assun�ao,
WSL Nazar� Challenge Safety Driver
197
00:14:10,230 --> 00:14:14,730
When I saw a person,
I identified Alex
198
00:14:14,810 --> 00:14:17,530
and he was partially unconscious.
199
00:14:17,690 --> 00:14:20,820
He was trying to fight for his life.
He was in shock.
200
00:14:21,450 --> 00:14:24,410
I tried to grab him.
I couldn't at first.
201
00:14:26,030 --> 00:14:28,660
Then a wave came and I escaped.
202
00:14:34,750 --> 00:14:37,800
I came back, tried to talk to him.
203
00:14:37,880 --> 00:14:42,130
"Alex come with me, come with me."
He wouldn't respond.
204
00:14:44,430 --> 00:14:46,800
Then another wave came.
205
00:14:50,390 --> 00:14:54,520
It's the second time that we ever see
a body floating out there.
206
00:14:54,690 --> 00:14:57,190
The first time it was mine
and now was the second.
207
00:15:00,190 --> 00:15:04,450
I swam to him. I tried to grab him
as tightly as possible.
208
00:15:04,530 --> 00:15:07,410
So I wouldn't lose him during
the next wave.
209
00:15:09,870 --> 00:15:13,250
Then we got hit with a big wave
right on the sand.
210
00:15:13,330 --> 00:15:17,250
He rolled away and I did too.
I completely lost him.
211
00:15:19,840 --> 00:15:21,920
He showed up a bit further away.
212
00:15:22,510 --> 00:15:26,340
I remember I saw many lifeguards,
many friends and many jetski drivers,
213
00:15:26,430 --> 00:15:28,260
everyone trying to look for him.
214
00:16:00,540 --> 00:16:03,050
When Hugo Vau and Alex
had their accident,
215
00:16:03,210 --> 00:16:04,920
I was with Scooby
216
00:16:05,090 --> 00:16:08,140
and no one told us on the radio.
217
00:16:08,220 --> 00:16:09,970
We just kept surfing.
We didn't hear it.
218
00:16:10,600 --> 00:16:15,180
There's no real info. It's just
nobody knew what happened.
219
00:16:15,270 --> 00:16:16,440
It was until
220
00:16:16,600 --> 00:16:20,520
social media or something with the
video and then it was just, oh shit.
221
00:16:20,690 --> 00:16:24,110
Extraordinary pictures that have come
in from Nazar�, Portugal,
222
00:16:24,280 --> 00:16:27,400
Alex Botelho got wiped out
while on a jetski.
223
00:16:27,570 --> 00:16:31,200
Botelho was unconscious when
lifeguards pulled him from the water.
224
00:16:31,370 --> 00:16:35,200
He was unconscious for two minutes.
225
00:16:35,290 --> 00:16:37,540
It was a moment of panic.
226
00:16:45,920 --> 00:16:47,680
It looked like he broke his back there
227
00:16:47,760 --> 00:16:50,720
and then boom, wave washes in
like the heaviest thing
228
00:16:50,800 --> 00:16:54,770
and then he's just out. He's just out
and there's no skis and it's like...
229
00:16:54,850 --> 00:16:56,730
So you saw the whole thing?
230
00:16:59,140 --> 00:17:03,270
And then I just ran down
and he started breathing again.
231
00:17:04,320 --> 00:17:06,190
But yeah, heavy.
232
00:17:14,700 --> 00:17:18,410
When Alex and Hugo get flipped
upside down with the jet ski,
233
00:17:18,580 --> 00:17:23,340
you realize you are nothing
compared to this giant ocean.
234
00:17:23,500 --> 00:17:26,050
Wow. It really took us back to reality.
235
00:17:27,090 --> 00:17:29,970
We must do even better.
Be more strict with safety.
236
00:17:30,050 --> 00:17:32,470
To me that is really
the most important thing.
237
00:17:34,010 --> 00:17:38,060
It's hard. I surfed the contest really
expecting my body
238
00:17:38,140 --> 00:17:40,520
if it eventually floated unconscious
239
00:17:40,600 --> 00:17:43,860
to be grabbed and taken to the beach
very quickly.
240
00:17:44,020 --> 00:17:48,820
And to see that that didn't go that way
with a friend of ours
241
00:17:48,900 --> 00:17:50,490
it just...
242
00:17:52,110 --> 00:17:53,950
I don't know, it's scary.
243
00:17:57,830 --> 00:18:01,040
A lot of preparation went into having
a safety plan.
244
00:18:01,960 --> 00:18:06,040
But in the end, Alex Botelho was not
riding a wave,
245
00:18:06,130 --> 00:18:09,840
he was getting a lift back out with
his partner and the jet ski crashed.
246
00:18:10,010 --> 00:18:12,300
If you attended all of the safety
meetings,
247
00:18:12,380 --> 00:18:15,220
that wasn't something that
everyone was looking for.
248
00:18:15,300 --> 00:18:20,140
Luckily Alemao followed Hugo
or Alex wouldn't be here.
249
00:18:20,230 --> 00:18:23,600
He was watching four other teams
at the same time.
250
00:18:24,610 --> 00:18:27,480
But he made sure that he went in
and got out.
251
00:18:29,110 --> 00:18:31,360
Alemao was the real hero.
252
00:18:31,530 --> 00:18:35,370
I would never be the best in Nazar�.
No one will ever be.
253
00:18:36,200 --> 00:18:37,530
No one's ready for Nazar�.
254
00:18:37,620 --> 00:18:41,410
Not even the best ones and the best
prepared, like Hugo and Alex.
255
00:18:41,500 --> 00:18:44,920
Everyone is subject to being
knocked out.
256
00:18:45,080 --> 00:18:47,460
It's a ring without a gladiator.
257
00:18:47,630 --> 00:18:51,510
Over there the winner is always
"Big Mama" Nature.
258
00:18:54,010 --> 00:18:58,930
It definitely makes me think
he was lucky.
259
00:19:00,390 --> 00:19:02,180
when you're out in the water
260
00:19:03,730 --> 00:19:07,940
everything changes,
you're like a kid in the candy store.
261
00:19:10,780 --> 00:19:12,530
Usually.
262
00:19:15,570 --> 00:19:17,450
How was today, Cotty?
263
00:19:17,620 --> 00:19:19,910
It was alright.
264
00:19:20,080 --> 00:19:22,660
A couple of big waves.
265
00:19:22,830 --> 00:19:27,500
But it was a bit of a weird one
ending like it did.
266
00:19:28,960 --> 00:19:32,460
Hopefully I'm...
You know, I...
267
00:19:34,010 --> 00:19:37,720
Got an interview for BBC news
with Tom.
268
00:19:37,800 --> 00:19:40,640
I'm quite tired, I definitely don't
want to be doing interviews.
269
00:19:40,720 --> 00:19:44,140
Public speaking's
one of my biggest fears.
270
00:19:45,770 --> 00:19:48,650
And uh, now I do it for a job.
271
00:19:50,480 --> 00:19:53,820
That's way worse than surfing
80-foot waves.
272
00:19:53,900 --> 00:19:56,070
Andrew, Tom,
thank you very much for doing this.
273
00:19:56,150 --> 00:19:58,660
Andrew, first of all tells us what
conditions have been like
274
00:19:58,740 --> 00:20:01,280
for big wave surfing there
for the last couple of days.
275
00:20:01,450 --> 00:20:06,210
Today the swells will peak probably at
like 60 feet maybe?
276
00:20:06,290 --> 00:20:11,460
And it was a Nazar� tow challenge,
yeah it's been a great day.
277
00:20:12,590 --> 00:20:14,920
And how are you getting on
in the competition?
278
00:20:15,010 --> 00:20:18,720
We don't know. We surfed all day today.
279
00:20:18,800 --> 00:20:23,220
We found out tonight at 7:00 there's
an awards ceremony at the Lighthouse.
280
00:20:23,810 --> 00:20:27,810
I hate to remind you, Andrew, of what
happened there a few years ago.
281
00:20:27,890 --> 00:20:31,190
You had a spectacular wipeout
that nearly ended your career.
282
00:20:31,270 --> 00:20:33,820
How are things progressing
from then on?
283
00:20:35,110 --> 00:20:38,490
The wipeout a couple of years ago,
284
00:20:40,620 --> 00:20:44,830
it was traumatic but it was just
an injury. And, and...
285
00:20:44,910 --> 00:20:48,080
Whatever I do it's always about the
broken back,
286
00:20:48,250 --> 00:20:50,290
it's all about the injury.
287
00:20:50,380 --> 00:20:53,460
It's like shit I've surfed
so many good waves and they're like...
288
00:20:53,550 --> 00:20:55,630
All they want to talk about
is the injury.
289
00:20:55,710 --> 00:20:58,260
Which is kind of sad isn't it?
290
00:20:59,680 --> 00:21:01,680
No one really cares about the ones
you make,
291
00:21:01,760 --> 00:21:04,930
they want to see about the ones
you don't. You know?
292
00:21:05,100 --> 00:21:07,730
How many interviews have you
been asked about your wipeout?
293
00:21:07,810 --> 00:21:10,150
It's just like oh my god.
294
00:21:11,480 --> 00:21:12,650
See you later.
295
00:21:12,730 --> 00:21:15,360
I'm so glad you guys are alright,
thank you for looking after Tom for me.
296
00:21:15,440 --> 00:21:17,900
We did some good waves man.
297
00:21:19,950 --> 00:21:22,280
You're looking for a shirt, right?
298
00:21:22,910 --> 00:21:26,330
- You've got one in the camper there.
- I am there.
299
00:21:26,410 --> 00:21:28,250
See you in a little bit.
300
00:21:34,210 --> 00:21:35,590
Hi, mate.
301
00:21:36,460 --> 00:21:39,470
Sorry I wasn't that good up there.
It's so hard.
302
00:21:39,550 --> 00:21:42,930
Yeah, I know. You're fine. It was good,
it was good.
303
00:21:43,010 --> 00:21:45,310
- It's hard though, isn't it?
- It's so gnarly.
304
00:21:45,390 --> 00:21:47,970
It's hard, eh? Did anyone get any...
what was the...
305
00:21:49,810 --> 00:21:55,400
Your last wave was probably a contender
and nobody shot it.
306
00:21:55,480 --> 00:21:58,440
They were all shooting Alex.
307
00:21:59,030 --> 00:22:01,070
- No one shot the last one?
- No.
308
00:22:01,240 --> 00:22:04,410
From what they were doing
your wave should be in the top five.
309
00:22:05,870 --> 00:22:07,330
- The last wave.
- The last wave?
310
00:22:07,490 --> 00:22:09,540
Yeah, but they couldn't find it.
311
00:22:11,750 --> 00:22:14,920
Oh I don't know that's too bad
isn't it?
312
00:22:17,170 --> 00:22:18,420
Alright.
313
00:22:21,010 --> 00:22:22,590
And then uh...
314
00:22:26,180 --> 00:22:28,350
Okay. Good surfing.
315
00:22:30,930 --> 00:22:33,350
Basically the rules of the biggest wave
316
00:22:33,520 --> 00:22:36,110
within an event
really depend on
317
00:22:36,270 --> 00:22:39,150
the video and photographic evidence.
318
00:22:39,230 --> 00:22:44,200
Andrew Cotton caught an amazing wave
at the last minute of the challenge
319
00:22:44,280 --> 00:22:47,450
and tragically it was not captured.
320
00:22:47,620 --> 00:22:51,450
I remember them saying the cameraman
caught the wave in the score
321
00:22:51,540 --> 00:22:53,670
and he caught it before the horn blast.
322
00:22:55,750 --> 00:22:59,380
But everything was happening on
the inside with Alex and Hugo
323
00:22:59,550 --> 00:23:02,510
and the attention
obviously went to that.
324
00:23:02,670 --> 00:23:06,800
How this can happen?
When you have like 8-10 cameras?
325
00:23:07,430 --> 00:23:09,560
They were pointing all the cameras
to the accident.
326
00:23:09,640 --> 00:23:11,980
To the point they lost Cotty's wave.
327
00:23:12,140 --> 00:23:14,140
Which was one of the biggest
on that day.
328
00:23:14,310 --> 00:23:18,230
I looked up and I saw it and it was
a stunner but unfortunately,
329
00:23:18,400 --> 00:23:20,440
not only everyone working on the event
330
00:23:20,610 --> 00:23:24,780
but everyone who had a camera
who was attending the event
331
00:23:24,950 --> 00:23:29,740
looked the other way. So it was not up
for consideration in the event.
332
00:23:29,830 --> 00:23:33,330
Nor was it up for a consideration
of the biggest wave of the year.
333
00:23:33,500 --> 00:23:37,920
Until we can have a camera over
every square centimeter of the earth
334
00:23:38,080 --> 00:23:39,920
a few things are gonna go missing.
335
00:23:49,260 --> 00:23:52,100
Hello, how are you my darling?
336
00:23:52,180 --> 00:23:55,730
Well done. You did so well, brilliant.
337
00:23:55,810 --> 00:23:58,520
You didn't even know
which one I was though.
338
00:24:00,020 --> 00:24:03,280
But I think I knew sometimes.
339
00:24:03,360 --> 00:24:06,490
No, it was great. So glad that I was
able to see you. It was brilliant.
340
00:24:08,570 --> 00:24:11,620
I saw you on that big wave
coming down, I saw that.
341
00:24:11,700 --> 00:24:15,910
Yes, we were fortunate to be
still out there watching the final wave
342
00:24:16,080 --> 00:24:18,920
and it really, really was a big wave
but um,
343
00:24:19,080 --> 00:24:21,170
I don't think an awful lot
of people did see it though.
344
00:24:34,520 --> 00:24:38,230
Cotty loves surfing big waves.
It's all he wants to do.
345
00:24:38,310 --> 00:24:41,560
He is hungry, super hungry.
346
00:24:43,360 --> 00:24:46,530
Obsessed with big waves but
never really...
347
00:24:50,570 --> 00:24:52,330
Never really...
348
00:24:56,120 --> 00:25:00,420
Never really want anything
or really had that moment.
349
00:25:02,290 --> 00:25:05,420
WSL AWARDS CEREMONY
350
00:25:06,050 --> 00:25:09,590
My first words go to Alex and Hugo.
351
00:25:09,680 --> 00:25:13,930
Let's give them a big round of
applause. I think they deserve it.
352
00:25:15,520 --> 00:25:16,810
Second of all,
353
00:25:16,980 --> 00:25:20,230
my family, the surfers.
Man,
354
00:25:21,310 --> 00:25:25,730
you're here all these years.
I'll always be here to support you.
355
00:25:25,900 --> 00:25:29,240
As long as the people of Nazar�
vote for me of course.
356
00:25:29,320 --> 00:25:33,570
But if they don't, I'll still be here.
Thank you, thank you, thank you.
357
00:25:33,660 --> 00:25:35,580
Have a nice evening.
358
00:25:39,160 --> 00:25:42,630
There's Seb.
Thank you. You wanna say something?
359
00:25:43,380 --> 00:25:47,050
I just came from the hospital.
Alex has a problem with his lung,
360
00:25:47,130 --> 00:25:49,470
a lot of water in there,
but he will push through
361
00:25:49,630 --> 00:25:54,300
and he will also be kept there
overnight. But probably also be fine.
362
00:25:54,470 --> 00:25:59,680
And he asked me to pass the message
that he really enjoyed the day.
363
00:25:59,770 --> 00:26:02,560
He's stoked that everyone charged
364
00:26:02,730 --> 00:26:05,820
and he's happy to come back
and see all of us.
365
00:26:05,980 --> 00:26:07,860
That's the message he had.
366
00:26:10,320 --> 00:26:11,570
Beautiful stuff.
367
00:26:14,780 --> 00:26:17,540
So to be unique to this event
368
00:26:17,620 --> 00:26:20,960
we have the surfers voting on
all the awards tonight.
369
00:26:21,040 --> 00:26:23,420
It is something where you can't blame
the judging,
370
00:26:23,500 --> 00:26:26,210
because you are all the judges
as athletes.
371
00:26:26,380 --> 00:26:29,170
I'm now going to introduce
the highlights of today.
372
00:26:29,340 --> 00:26:33,930
So please pay attention to this very
closely so you can get your votes in.
373
00:26:35,720 --> 00:26:39,310
The idea was we would watch
everyone's run and we'd all judge it.
374
00:26:41,020 --> 00:26:43,900
Surfing is more of an art than a sport
375
00:26:44,060 --> 00:26:46,360
and hard to judge in a lot of ways.
376
00:26:47,440 --> 00:26:52,650
It was just about his gut feeling
as a surfer participating in an event.
377
00:26:52,820 --> 00:26:54,860
What spoke to you?
378
00:26:54,950 --> 00:26:58,740
Well there you go, round of applause
for an incredible day of surfing.
379
00:27:01,160 --> 00:27:04,620
When you hear your name
please come up here and cast your vote.
380
00:27:13,720 --> 00:27:17,680
I like the way the contest
was organized but
381
00:27:17,850 --> 00:27:19,310
I didn't compete.
382
00:27:20,260 --> 00:27:26,060
For me big waves
are about you and God.
383
00:27:29,820 --> 00:27:34,110
But of course it's amazing for the
great community
384
00:27:34,280 --> 00:27:35,820
and I respect it a lot.
385
00:27:35,910 --> 00:27:41,370
Our tabulator here works quickly and
first awards women's wave of the day.
386
00:27:41,450 --> 00:27:43,200
Over here,
387
00:27:43,370 --> 00:27:46,330
and it will go to Justine Dupont.
388
00:27:53,710 --> 00:27:56,260
The real trophy is getting that wave.
389
00:27:56,430 --> 00:28:00,300
We could question the need for a trophy
in surfing?
390
00:28:00,470 --> 00:28:03,140
I mean don't get me wrong, it's nice to
win some trophies of course.
391
00:28:04,390 --> 00:28:08,060
- Do you recall the wave of the day?
- One was kind of special.
392
00:28:15,570 --> 00:28:19,200
But it's not about winning,
it's about sharing.
393
00:28:19,370 --> 00:28:22,540
Maya, her wave was huge today as well.
394
00:28:23,370 --> 00:28:26,500
And tomorrow she will catch
a bigger one than me.
395
00:28:26,660 --> 00:28:32,800
So I like this game. And we're helping
push the limits together with the boys.
396
00:28:32,880 --> 00:28:38,760
So thanks for this, but yeah.
Tomorrow I'll give it back to Maya.
397
00:28:38,930 --> 00:28:41,470
Thank you very much, merci.
398
00:28:43,600 --> 00:28:47,850
That brings us to
the men's wave of the day.
399
00:28:48,020 --> 00:28:51,520
I think that this one, the wave did
a lot of the work
400
00:28:51,610 --> 00:28:54,900
but the teamwork got the wave.
401
00:28:56,150 --> 00:28:59,610
So congratulations to Kai Lenny
for the wave of the day.
402
00:29:03,080 --> 00:29:05,870
Kai, I want to ask you first.
403
00:29:05,950 --> 00:29:09,370
That wave was pretty special, you ended
up splitting the peak with someone.
404
00:29:09,460 --> 00:29:12,670
I think it was Team Britain that was
going on the left.
405
00:29:12,750 --> 00:29:16,630
And I yelled at Lucas, I'm like, let's
go right and he's like, right, really?
406
00:29:16,800 --> 00:29:18,170
Because he was going to go straight
to the cliff.
407
00:29:18,340 --> 00:29:19,720
And he just whipped me up
408
00:29:19,800 --> 00:29:23,140
and the wave was so smooth I didn't
know how big it was behind me.
409
00:29:23,850 --> 00:29:27,520
If you were to ask any surfer to draw
the perfect wave
410
00:29:27,680 --> 00:29:30,350
it would probably be something
like that.
411
00:29:31,810 --> 00:29:34,400
- Wouldn't you agree?
- Yeah.
412
00:29:34,570 --> 00:29:37,780
To be honest I remember seeing Kai
on the right
413
00:29:37,860 --> 00:29:41,660
and I don't even remember seeing
what happened on the left.
414
00:29:44,030 --> 00:29:45,950
That's how good the right was.
415
00:29:50,830 --> 00:29:52,210
Hindsight is 20/20
416
00:29:52,370 --> 00:29:55,630
and I've been on the other side of the
stick as well where
417
00:29:55,710 --> 00:29:58,300
you could have gone
on the wave of the day.
418
00:29:58,460 --> 00:30:00,930
I think it happens to every big wave
surfer where
419
00:30:01,010 --> 00:30:05,260
he shoulda, coulda. But you just have
to go back out there
420
00:30:05,430 --> 00:30:08,810
and hope you get another opportunity
at it.
421
00:30:08,970 --> 00:30:10,140
Well you might stay up on the stage
422
00:30:10,230 --> 00:30:13,520
because the next one,
you guys are the best team.
423
00:30:13,600 --> 00:30:15,400
You won the best team as well.
424
00:30:18,440 --> 00:30:21,200
One more round of applause
for all the competitors.
425
00:30:21,360 --> 00:30:25,280
Did you guys ever figure out if
your last wave was found or ever seen?
426
00:30:25,450 --> 00:30:29,040
Don't think there's any video.
But there's a still.
427
00:30:30,790 --> 00:30:32,870
Which is nice.
428
00:30:33,500 --> 00:30:35,670
But there will be
big waves tomorrow.
429
00:30:35,750 --> 00:30:37,670
Bigger waves Monday.
430
00:30:37,750 --> 00:30:40,630
It's just another wave.
431
00:30:41,970 --> 00:30:44,720
I've got to go. Alright.
432
00:30:46,010 --> 00:30:47,890
I'll see you in the morning.
433
00:30:48,060 --> 00:30:52,060
- Where is MacNamara?
- No, he's gone. He's in there.
434
00:30:52,140 --> 00:30:54,190
Oh now that's right.
435
00:30:54,270 --> 00:30:58,520
I was thinking MacNamara wasn't there.
I'm gonna give him a kiss.
436
00:30:58,610 --> 00:31:01,530
Hey you!
He was there the whole time.
437
00:31:06,530 --> 00:31:08,910
I should have done the contest.
438
00:31:09,080 --> 00:31:12,120
There's a small percentage of me that
wanted to.
439
00:31:15,920 --> 00:31:17,630
The teams
are gonna get more organized,
440
00:31:17,710 --> 00:31:20,750
they're gonna figure out
how to do better.
441
00:31:21,880 --> 00:31:24,010
And it's gonna get harder.
It's just like the paddle contest.
442
00:31:24,090 --> 00:31:26,970
I should have done that the first year
but I had a broken arm.
443
00:31:27,050 --> 00:31:29,890
Now this one I've got a broken foot.
There's some
444
00:31:29,970 --> 00:31:34,100
weird little juju going on
and I don't know what's wrong.
445
00:31:35,480 --> 00:31:38,900
Figure out what I'm doing wrong, or
maybe I'm not doing anything wrong.
446
00:31:38,980 --> 00:31:40,480
I don't know.
447
00:31:43,740 --> 00:31:45,700
What would you have done though
that no one else...
448
00:31:45,780 --> 00:31:48,870
I would have got barrel. Plain and
simple, I would have got barrel.
449
00:31:48,950 --> 00:31:50,280
I would have found a right barrel
450
00:31:50,370 --> 00:31:53,450
and I would have gotten blown out
of a monster barrel.
451
00:31:54,870 --> 00:31:57,750
And that's what would have won
the whole thing.
452
00:32:05,170 --> 00:32:08,510
At 52 that would have been
pretty inspiring.
453
00:32:13,810 --> 00:32:16,310
If it would have been perfect
conditions
454
00:32:16,390 --> 00:32:20,150
Garrett would have surfed the contest.
I think he was just feeling fear,
455
00:32:20,310 --> 00:32:22,730
fear of loss.
456
00:32:22,820 --> 00:32:25,150
Or fear of another injury.
457
00:32:26,320 --> 00:32:28,700
Garrett, ten years ago was like,
458
00:32:28,860 --> 00:32:31,700
he wanted every wave under the sun.
459
00:32:33,120 --> 00:32:35,750
He was hungry.
460
00:32:36,580 --> 00:32:37,790
But now
461
00:32:38,750 --> 00:32:43,880
the growing fear of wipeouts,
the impacts, the dangers.
462
00:32:45,260 --> 00:32:47,800
Garrett's had a lot.
He's had more than most.
463
00:32:47,970 --> 00:32:49,340
He's had a lot of beatings.
464
00:32:50,180 --> 00:32:52,010
Oh my god.
465
00:32:55,770 --> 00:32:59,350
The last four years he had an injury
and he hasn't surfed as much.
466
00:33:01,060 --> 00:33:02,940
Before I got hurt
467
00:33:03,110 --> 00:33:06,240
I really enjoyed being
underwater, enjoyed getting pounded,
468
00:33:06,320 --> 00:33:08,400
and enjoyed every moment.
469
00:33:08,570 --> 00:33:12,160
And Maverick's smacked me down.
470
00:33:13,080 --> 00:33:18,500
The pain was so severe for so long
that it changed my outlook a bit.
471
00:33:21,380 --> 00:33:25,500
And then in G-Land during that wipeout
472
00:33:25,590 --> 00:33:26,880
it was spooky getting pounded
473
00:33:27,050 --> 00:33:30,800
and thinking about my family
while I'm under water.
474
00:33:30,970 --> 00:33:35,390
Not being there for them
definitely weighs on you a bit.
475
00:33:37,180 --> 00:33:40,560
Big wave surfing is one of the most
challenging sports one can undertake
476
00:33:40,730 --> 00:33:43,560
because
no matter how good you really are
477
00:33:43,730 --> 00:33:47,070
you're going to reach a situation
that'll
478
00:33:47,230 --> 00:33:49,900
nearly send you into oblivion.
479
00:33:50,650 --> 00:33:55,240
The fear that comes into big wave
surfing. There's fear for your life.
480
00:33:55,410 --> 00:33:57,660
You can't go out into the sea
and not be scared.
481
00:33:57,830 --> 00:34:00,370
Fear is an ever present emotion.
482
00:34:01,540 --> 00:34:03,880
Yet you have to go out into
certain conditions.
483
00:34:03,960 --> 00:34:08,630
You have obligations to yourself
to your own drive.
484
00:34:09,550 --> 00:34:11,760
Whenever you let go of the tow rope
to catch a wave
485
00:34:11,840 --> 00:34:14,390
you don't know what's coming next.
486
00:34:14,470 --> 00:34:16,310
You have no control over these
elements.
487
00:34:16,390 --> 00:34:19,140
The only control you've got
is of yourself.
488
00:34:19,220 --> 00:34:20,850
There's nervous energy there,
489
00:34:20,930 --> 00:34:24,190
but then there's a moment in time where
it just disappears.
490
00:34:24,270 --> 00:34:27,570
A deathly calm comes over you
and the fear
491
00:34:27,730 --> 00:34:29,280
completely drains.
492
00:34:31,030 --> 00:34:34,110
We know it's a sense of flying,
it's like being a bird.
493
00:34:34,200 --> 00:34:36,280
We know it's all consuming like
494
00:34:36,450 --> 00:34:39,120
you're not thinking about anything
else.
495
00:34:39,200 --> 00:34:43,080
You're completely absorbed in the
moment, time goes slow you know?
496
00:34:43,250 --> 00:34:45,040
A second probably equates to more like
ten seconds.
497
00:34:46,590 --> 00:34:50,630
You are present. Intensely present.
You are a human being against
498
00:34:50,800 --> 00:34:53,470
the wave
and against the challenge.
499
00:34:53,550 --> 00:34:57,300
You become part of something
that is greater than you.
500
00:34:57,390 --> 00:34:59,390
Part of nature, part of the universe.
501
00:35:01,350 --> 00:35:04,900
And you're just riding, surfing,
flying.
502
00:35:05,060 --> 00:35:06,440
Voila.
503
00:35:06,610 --> 00:35:10,530
It's the closest I've ever felt to
euphoria.
504
00:35:11,690 --> 00:35:15,910
I feel like I'm Icarus
and I'm getting so close to the sun
505
00:35:16,990 --> 00:35:20,790
but my wax wings haven't melted
just yet.
506
00:35:21,870 --> 00:35:24,790
They're putting their life on the line
every day when they go there.
507
00:35:24,870 --> 00:35:28,590
Every wave can be their last wave.
508
00:35:28,750 --> 00:35:33,170
It's what makes them feel alive.
509
00:35:34,130 --> 00:35:38,180
It is magical and I think once
you get a connection with the ocean
510
00:35:38,260 --> 00:35:40,560
I think it can be with you forever.
511
00:35:40,720 --> 00:35:45,440
That feeling is the feeling I think
you end up chasing for your whole life.
512
00:35:45,520 --> 00:35:47,770
I've been surfing now for 33 years
513
00:35:47,940 --> 00:35:50,190
and I'm still chasing that same wave.
514
00:35:51,190 --> 00:35:54,280
And that's why we pursue it.
That's why we do it our whole life.
515
00:35:54,360 --> 00:35:57,240
That's why we fly around the world.
Because there's no one
516
00:35:57,410 --> 00:36:01,540
alive that when riding a wave
wouldn't experience that feeling
517
00:36:02,330 --> 00:36:06,710
and not want to go back out and spend
their whole life doing it.
518
00:36:15,130 --> 00:36:18,300
Two days after WSL Challenge
519
00:36:32,770 --> 00:36:36,070
We were trying to do these remote
control jet skis that we set up
520
00:36:36,150 --> 00:36:41,410
and we were attempting to capture the
wave from a bunch of different angles.
521
00:36:41,490 --> 00:36:42,870
And then in the midst of all of that,
522
00:36:43,030 --> 00:36:45,660
Garrett I think decided to catch a wave
all of a sudden.
523
00:36:45,750 --> 00:36:48,580
I'm looking up and there's perfect
smooth rights on the 3rd and 4th peak.
524
00:36:48,670 --> 00:36:52,000
And that's like a dream,
it's just so fun.
525
00:36:52,170 --> 00:36:54,340
I'm thinking okay I'm gonna go take
Cotty on a couple of waves
526
00:36:54,500 --> 00:36:56,300
and then he's like man,
do you want one?
527
00:36:56,380 --> 00:36:58,970
I almost want one.
My foot was kind of swollen.
528
00:36:59,050 --> 00:37:00,800
I'll get you one if you want.
529
00:37:00,890 --> 00:37:03,680
I'm like... Okay.
530
00:37:04,470 --> 00:37:08,980
It's been four years since
he had a really big wave.
531
00:37:15,900 --> 00:37:19,030
Let's all follow our hearts.
Everything will go great.
532
00:37:20,660 --> 00:37:22,570
I get on the rope
and there's the set.
533
00:37:31,750 --> 00:37:33,590
There's Garrett.
534
00:37:39,130 --> 00:37:42,180
Fear is something we choose.
535
00:37:44,140 --> 00:37:47,600
Fear is when we're not in the moment.
536
00:37:52,230 --> 00:37:56,690
When we choose to think about the past
or think about the future.
537
00:37:56,780 --> 00:37:59,190
Two things that don't exist.
538
00:38:02,070 --> 00:38:06,530
For the big waves the only thing
that exists is right now.
539
00:38:42,450 --> 00:38:44,610
He got a bomb wave
540
00:38:44,700 --> 00:38:46,780
but then it was disaster.
541
00:38:50,950 --> 00:38:52,750
We got pounded.
542
00:38:55,460 --> 00:38:56,880
He went over the fall.
543
00:39:04,220 --> 00:39:06,590
And then he got washed up
on the beach.
544
00:39:06,680 --> 00:39:10,520
I saw him on the beach on his knees
there and I thought he was hurt.
545
00:39:10,600 --> 00:39:12,020
He just got a horrific wipeout.
546
00:39:12,100 --> 00:39:16,400
He got two big waves on the head,
held under for 35-40 seconds.
547
00:39:17,310 --> 00:39:19,440
And he came back smiling.
548
00:39:37,710 --> 00:39:42,260
Five years I don't get pounded
so... It feel so good.
549
00:39:49,140 --> 00:39:52,060
I've been letting fear consume me.
550
00:39:52,220 --> 00:39:55,480
I wasn't sure if I enjoyed being under
water anymore.
551
00:39:55,560 --> 00:39:57,650
I really enjoyed it.
552
00:39:58,810 --> 00:40:01,320
Yeah when I saw that big white water
coming at me I wasn't afraid
553
00:40:01,400 --> 00:40:05,030
and I went over the falls
and I wasn't afraid.
554
00:40:05,700 --> 00:40:08,160
It was like back to normal.
Pretty cool.
555
00:40:09,530 --> 00:40:14,290
It was so good that that happened.
It was a sense of relief.
556
00:40:22,670 --> 00:40:24,590
And where does the fear sit now?
557
00:40:26,300 --> 00:40:28,380
The fear?
558
00:40:28,470 --> 00:40:31,970
Well as of now
I feel the fear has disappeared.
559
00:40:33,010 --> 00:40:36,270
Yeah. Gman is back.
560
00:40:38,770 --> 00:40:42,690
Look at how good it is up there.
Oh I might have to go back out.
561
00:40:45,150 --> 00:40:47,780
I think the spark is back,
Garrett's back
562
00:40:47,950 --> 00:40:49,570
and he's gonna ride a 100-foot wave
here.
563
00:40:52,030 --> 00:40:55,240
If the 100-foot day comes
and the conditions are right,
564
00:40:55,410 --> 00:40:58,460
I'll definitely go out there and
ride it. There's no doubt about that.
565
00:41:01,130 --> 00:41:02,880
Thank you all!
566
00:41:07,590 --> 00:41:09,680
Welcome to Nazar�.
567
00:41:11,510 --> 00:41:15,600
Never a dull moment.
Thank you very very much.
568
00:41:17,560 --> 00:41:19,560
ONE MONTH LATER
569
00:41:19,640 --> 00:41:20,850
Breaking news, stay at home,
570
00:41:21,020 --> 00:41:23,520
that is the order tonight
from four state governors.
571
00:41:23,690 --> 00:41:27,280
Governor David Ige announcing
a mandatory 2-week quarantine
572
00:41:27,360 --> 00:41:32,280
for all travelers arriving in Hawaii
beginning Thursday, March 26th.
573
00:41:32,370 --> 00:41:33,990
Now this will not apply to...
574
00:41:38,960 --> 00:41:42,290
My foot's all better.
No pain at all.
575
00:41:48,170 --> 00:41:52,550
This is probably the longest
we've ever been home.
576
00:41:52,720 --> 00:41:54,470
That's cilantro.
577
00:41:56,350 --> 00:41:57,720
What's this one?
578
00:41:59,020 --> 00:42:01,640
Sage. Wow.
579
00:42:01,730 --> 00:42:05,690
Sometimes it's great
and other times it's not great.
580
00:42:09,740 --> 00:42:12,860
Being trapped with my family
581
00:42:13,030 --> 00:42:14,160
has been interesting.
582
00:42:15,370 --> 00:42:20,120
It's been beautiful just surfing
regular waves and fun waves
583
00:42:20,200 --> 00:42:24,330
and just slowing down enough
and remembering to enjoy it.
584
00:42:25,920 --> 00:42:29,170
Garrett's also connecting with what's
important
585
00:42:29,340 --> 00:42:30,800
to himself and his life.
586
00:42:32,340 --> 00:42:36,640
I've actually been relaxing
with the family.
587
00:42:38,310 --> 00:42:42,600
Definitely starting appreciating
everything out of the water more.
588
00:42:42,690 --> 00:42:47,480
Not having to base everything on
the next ride and
589
00:42:48,820 --> 00:42:52,070
needing that fix, that rush.
590
00:42:52,240 --> 00:42:55,280
The best time of my life right now.
The best time.
591
00:42:55,450 --> 00:42:56,910
Me come.
592
00:42:56,990 --> 00:42:59,200
You're gonna get on the jetski.
593
00:43:00,490 --> 00:43:03,870
- Do you wanna go with Sparrow?
- Yeah, Daddy.
594
00:43:11,510 --> 00:43:13,220
Can't remember when I was home
for this long.
595
00:43:14,340 --> 00:43:17,430
The work thing is eliminated
596
00:43:17,600 --> 00:43:21,060
and I get to enjoy time with the kids.
597
00:43:23,230 --> 00:43:26,810
But at the same time, as soon as
Portugal is open for surfing again,
598
00:43:26,900 --> 00:43:31,190
I want to get back down there.
It's what I've got to be doing.
599
00:43:33,530 --> 00:43:35,860
I actually miss Nazar� very much
right now.
600
00:43:36,030 --> 00:43:39,620
The only thing I'm missing from this
quarantine, we're supposed to be there.
601
00:43:40,200 --> 00:43:43,830
As soon as we can go back,
we're going back.
602
00:43:45,330 --> 00:43:47,960
I'll probably be more prepared
than I've ever been.
603
00:43:48,960 --> 00:43:52,050
Definitely the best shape that
I've been in since I got injured.
604
00:43:54,050 --> 00:43:59,550
My body's strong enough, my ligaments,
my tendons, the muscles are all solid.
605
00:44:00,260 --> 00:44:02,640
Shoulders and foot are ready.
606
00:44:02,720 --> 00:44:04,310
He's looking good and feeling good and
607
00:44:04,480 --> 00:44:07,270
he was out there surfing today
and he got some waves.
608
00:44:10,820 --> 00:44:13,990
I couldn't get off the bottom
and the board was going like this.
609
00:44:14,070 --> 00:44:16,450
I hit the bottom really hard
610
00:44:16,530 --> 00:44:20,530
and then I kicked off the bottom
like superman.
611
00:44:22,030 --> 00:44:23,870
Training for the next season is
continuous
612
00:44:23,950 --> 00:44:27,670
and I want to be ready
physically, mentally.
613
00:44:27,750 --> 00:44:31,420
I think Garett's been a really positive
role model in that
614
00:44:31,590 --> 00:44:33,880
you can surf big waves into
your fifties.
615
00:44:33,960 --> 00:44:39,090
It's inspiring to me to keep fit
and keep injury free. Keep focused.
616
00:44:39,260 --> 00:44:42,600
Cotty's ready. Cotty wants it, 100%.
617
00:44:42,760 --> 00:44:44,680
If it comes and Cotty's there,
he wants it.
618
00:44:44,770 --> 00:44:47,980
And I really feel it going to Cotty
619
00:44:48,140 --> 00:44:50,400
because he's given me
all of my best waves.
620
00:44:51,610 --> 00:44:54,650
How many 100-foot waves have ever
broken on the planet Earth?
621
00:44:54,730 --> 00:44:57,030
Ten? Twenty? Thirty? Thousands?
622
00:44:58,110 --> 00:45:00,780
There's a lot of luck involved
with big wave surfing
623
00:45:00,870 --> 00:45:03,660
but you make your own luck,
don't you?
624
00:45:06,160 --> 00:45:10,620
CJ, if he wants it
then it could easily come to him.
625
00:45:12,630 --> 00:45:16,260
I definitely could.
I know that I can.
626
00:45:16,420 --> 00:45:20,760
Sometimes I don't want to.
Just 'cause
627
00:45:21,550 --> 00:45:23,970
maybe there's some fear
and I think,
628
00:45:24,050 --> 00:45:28,890
okay, one little bump the wrong way and
I'm paying the price.
629
00:45:30,390 --> 00:45:34,730
But most of the time, seeing those big,
massive waves when it's good...
630
00:45:34,900 --> 00:45:36,860
Most of the time I want to.
631
00:45:38,030 --> 00:45:41,490
And I'm feeling energized
to go back to Nazar� for sure.
632
00:45:50,370 --> 00:45:53,960
When Garrett started surfing big waves
I'm sure he was
633
00:45:54,130 --> 00:45:57,210
only one of a handful of people on the
planet
634
00:45:57,300 --> 00:46:01,260
that wanted to surf 100-foot waves.
Now I think he's inspired
635
00:46:01,430 --> 00:46:04,640
a whole new generation
and a whole new group of people
636
00:46:04,800 --> 00:46:07,100
to want to go ride these giant waves.
637
00:46:07,260 --> 00:46:09,730
Especially the 100-footer.
638
00:46:09,890 --> 00:46:12,020
Hats down honestly
and thank you to him.
639
00:46:12,100 --> 00:46:14,150
Because he opened up a path
for all of us.
640
00:46:14,310 --> 00:46:20,820
Thanks to him we can all have these
experiences and share these emotions.
641
00:46:20,990 --> 00:46:24,990
That's awesome.
So thank you, Garrett.
642
00:46:26,160 --> 00:46:28,200
There's no doubt with Nazar� coming
onto the scene
643
00:46:28,370 --> 00:46:30,660
that 100-foot waves
are definitely achievable.
644
00:46:30,750 --> 00:46:33,080
And I think we all know that
there's bigger waves out there
645
00:46:33,170 --> 00:46:36,420
and at some point in time
somebody will ride one.
646
00:46:36,590 --> 00:46:41,050
The 100-foot wave is going to be a
120-foot wave when somebody rides it.
647
00:46:41,130 --> 00:46:43,880
And if it's not Garrett,
I hope it's me.
648
00:46:46,300 --> 00:46:50,770
I don't like to get too attached to
649
00:46:50,930 --> 00:46:54,350
numbers, goals and things.
650
00:46:54,520 --> 00:46:58,270
I want to perform really well,
but I don't want to be greedy.
651
00:46:59,820 --> 00:47:03,150
In September, the WSL
recognized Maya's Tow Challengd wave
652
00:47:03,240 --> 00:47:06,160
as the bigfest surfed by a man
or a woman in 2020.
653
00:47:06,240 --> 00:47:10,870
The wave measured 73.5 feet,
breaking her own world record.
654
00:47:12,370 --> 00:47:15,750
Surfers always have travelled
in search of waves.
655
00:47:17,000 --> 00:47:20,920
In hopes of finding something
incredible
656
00:47:21,010 --> 00:47:25,220
that might be greater than any of
the waves that we've ever ridden.
657
00:47:25,300 --> 00:47:29,560
That's what we do, that's what we've
done, and that's what we'll always do.
658
00:47:34,440 --> 00:47:37,730
When we met you, Garrett was talking
about the 100-foot wave.
659
00:47:37,810 --> 00:47:40,360
Do you think after this last year
and a half,
660
00:47:40,440 --> 00:47:43,990
do you think that's still the goal? Or
do you think it's changed?
661
00:47:45,450 --> 00:47:47,610
You know what? I don't know.
662
00:47:49,990 --> 00:47:51,870
I haven't gotten to the bottom of it
yet.
663
00:47:51,950 --> 00:47:57,080
- Let me get...
- No, I need help because it's small.
664
00:47:57,170 --> 00:47:59,130
- To catch the wave?
- Yeah.
665
00:47:59,210 --> 00:48:04,720
But I can imagine if that swell that
we've always known could come, comes
666
00:48:05,670 --> 00:48:08,590
I don't think that there's any way that
he'd be able to stay out of the water.
667
00:48:08,760 --> 00:48:11,310
If it's perfect conditions,
he's gonna go.
668
00:48:15,680 --> 00:48:17,560
This is the 100-foot wave.
669
00:48:17,730 --> 00:48:20,060
Life is the 100-foot wave.
670
00:48:20,150 --> 00:48:22,900
This right here
is the 100-foot wave.
671
00:48:29,240 --> 00:48:31,780
He was saying the 100-foot wave is
right now.
672
00:48:31,950 --> 00:48:33,450
Yeah.
673
00:48:35,000 --> 00:48:39,330
Yeah, I think it's definitely
changing for him. I don't know if it's
674
00:48:39,420 --> 00:48:41,000
old age or what
675
00:48:41,170 --> 00:48:44,590
but he seems a lot more content.
676
00:48:44,760 --> 00:48:47,880
Go, go, go. Yes, yes, yes.
677
00:48:57,890 --> 00:48:59,730
If you can live life
678
00:48:59,900 --> 00:49:03,360
like you're riding 100-foot waves
all day every day
679
00:49:05,530 --> 00:49:09,280
you're gonna have really amazing days.
58016
Can't find what you're looking for?
Get subtitles in any language from opensubtitles.com, and translate them here.