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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:01,400 --> 00:00:04,800 JOANNA: This is the last part of my 2,000-mile journey, 2 00:00:04,800 --> 00:00:07,880 travelling the length of Japan from north to south, 3 00:00:07,880 --> 00:00:10,760 with intriguing adventures and fascinating people 4 00:00:10,760 --> 00:00:12,480 across its hundreds of islands. 5 00:00:13,720 --> 00:00:17,520 I'm leaving Honshu, which is the biggest of the four principal Japanese islands, 6 00:00:17,520 --> 00:00:19,960 and going down to Shikoku, which is the smallest. 7 00:00:19,960 --> 00:00:22,680 It's got 4 million people, so it's not exactly tiny. 8 00:00:24,240 --> 00:00:27,120 And from Shikoku, it's over 1,000 miles 9 00:00:27,120 --> 00:00:31,760 to the southernmost tip of Japan, an archipelago of Pacific islands. 10 00:00:31,760 --> 00:00:33,440 Look at this view. 11 00:00:34,920 --> 00:00:38,280 We'll see great cities and stunning landscapes. 12 00:00:38,280 --> 00:00:40,920 Oh, that's a beauty. 13 00:00:40,920 --> 00:00:43,360 I'll reveal Japan's most ancient secrets... 14 00:00:44,680 --> 00:00:46,800 ..and some of its most modern achievements... 15 00:00:48,080 --> 00:00:50,640 ..and we're starting here on this amazing bridge, 16 00:00:50,640 --> 00:00:52,880 built between Honshu and Shikoku. 17 00:00:54,360 --> 00:00:57,600 It's absolutely bristling with superlatives. 18 00:00:57,600 --> 00:01:00,920 Listen to these s-st-statistics, if I can say the word properly. 19 00:01:00,920 --> 00:01:04,360 1,991m long, 20 00:01:04,360 --> 00:01:06,720 282m high, 21 00:01:06,720 --> 00:01:10,240 which makes it the longest and the highest suspension bridge 22 00:01:10,240 --> 00:01:12,160 in the whole world. 23 00:01:12,160 --> 00:01:14,080 Come with me to Japan. 24 00:01:14,080 --> 00:01:15,560 Yay. (GIGGLES) 25 00:01:21,400 --> 00:01:22,720 (GONG TOLLS) 26 00:01:23,800 --> 00:01:25,640 It's sunrise on Shikoku... 27 00:01:25,640 --> 00:01:27,200 (MONKS CHANTING PRAYER) 28 00:01:27,200 --> 00:01:31,560 ..and across the island, monks perform a ceremony dating back to the 6th century. 29 00:01:37,040 --> 00:01:40,880 35% of Japan is Buddhist, and all over the island, 30 00:01:40,880 --> 00:01:43,920 thousands of white-clad, faithful pilgrims can be seen 31 00:01:43,920 --> 00:01:47,080 making their way between the 88 temples along the route. 32 00:01:53,200 --> 00:01:55,400 I've never been on a pilgrimage before, 33 00:01:55,400 --> 00:01:58,360 but with these delightful outfits, I think I feel the calling. 34 00:01:59,600 --> 00:02:02,480 David-san? Oh, hi! 35 00:02:02,480 --> 00:02:05,600 David Morden has lived in Japan for 25 years, 36 00:02:05,600 --> 00:02:07,960 and he's going to point me in the right direction. 37 00:02:07,960 --> 00:02:10,520 The journey takes you on... How long, how far away? 38 00:02:10,520 --> 00:02:13,840 It's about 1,200km... Ooh. ..so it takes a while to get around. 39 00:02:13,840 --> 00:02:15,880 You've done it, of course. Yes. 40 00:02:15,880 --> 00:02:18,640 How many times? Just once, really. Just once? (LAUGHS) 41 00:02:19,880 --> 00:02:24,440 The pilgrimage is to honour Shikoku's most famous son Koubou Daishi, 42 00:02:24,440 --> 00:02:28,360 who lived here and brought Shingon Buddhism to Japan from China 43 00:02:28,360 --> 00:02:30,360 in the 9th century. 44 00:02:33,240 --> 00:02:35,440 Before I follow in the great man's footsteps, 45 00:02:35,440 --> 00:02:37,440 I need to dress appropriately. 46 00:02:37,440 --> 00:02:40,720 I might have to put something else on, but I'm loving this already. 47 00:02:40,720 --> 00:02:44,000 I can hear my voice echoing up underneath it. 48 00:02:44,000 --> 00:02:46,120 Do I need a staff? 49 00:02:46,120 --> 00:02:49,520 The staff represents the embodiment of Koubou Daishi, 50 00:02:49,520 --> 00:02:51,480 so it's important to get the right one. 51 00:02:51,480 --> 00:02:53,200 I think that would be a nice one. 52 00:02:53,200 --> 00:02:55,840 Or do you think I should have a more Buddhist colour? 53 00:02:55,840 --> 00:02:58,600 I think I might go for one of the rich Buddhist colours. 54 00:02:58,600 --> 00:03:02,320 I've now changed my mind. I'm not gonna have that one, I'm having this one. 55 00:03:02,320 --> 00:03:05,880 No, I'm not, actually. I like the colour. I'm not gonna have that one. 56 00:03:05,880 --> 00:03:08,000 I think I want long sleeves, don't you? OK. 57 00:03:08,000 --> 00:03:09,440 It doesn't look very smart, 58 00:03:09,440 --> 00:03:11,520 I think I look... I don't look very good. 59 00:03:11,520 --> 00:03:13,320 What do you think? What do you think? 60 00:03:14,520 --> 00:03:17,920 I'm now kitted out with all sorts of pilgrim paraphernalia, 61 00:03:17,920 --> 00:03:20,480 fully equipped to experience temple No.1. 62 00:03:21,640 --> 00:03:23,840 So, a lot of people put the staff here. 63 00:03:23,840 --> 00:03:27,880 Some of these look quite old. Often people forget them... 64 00:03:27,880 --> 00:03:31,960 because you get very busy with the incense and the candle and everything. 65 00:03:31,960 --> 00:03:35,120 I wouldn't forget mine. I would never forget my stick. 66 00:03:39,920 --> 00:03:41,680 Incense. Yes. 67 00:03:46,520 --> 00:03:49,480 These huge lanterns which have swastikas on them, 68 00:03:49,480 --> 00:03:52,480 which, of course, in the east, are signs of peace. 69 00:03:52,480 --> 00:03:56,240 Right above us, an extraordinary dragon. 70 00:03:56,240 --> 00:03:59,040 My pilgrim hat won't let me see exactly what he's up to. 71 00:03:59,040 --> 00:04:01,440 He's got talons and the full moon. 72 00:04:06,200 --> 00:04:08,880 As the end of your life comes into view, 73 00:04:08,880 --> 00:04:11,920 it, sort of, becomes late afternoon, evening of your life, 74 00:04:11,920 --> 00:04:15,520 you begin to think back and you begin to try to ponder on 75 00:04:15,520 --> 00:04:18,800 what's good and bad, and what's it all about, Alfie, 76 00:04:18,800 --> 00:04:22,080 and that sort of thing, and although I've never made a pilgrimage, 77 00:04:22,080 --> 00:04:25,800 this seems like a good time to start. I've got all the kit, for a start. 78 00:04:27,320 --> 00:04:29,480 Well, off I go. 79 00:04:33,800 --> 00:04:35,560 (SPEAKS JAPANESE) 80 00:04:35,560 --> 00:04:39,120 Oh, you are wonderful. Arigatou. Thank you so much. 81 00:04:42,560 --> 00:04:43,840 (CLANGS) 82 00:04:46,240 --> 00:04:49,320 I wonder if at the end of my pilgrimage, I'll be recharged... 83 00:04:50,880 --> 00:04:54,920 Gorgeous onions. They grow things so beautifully round here. 84 00:04:54,920 --> 00:04:57,600 ..reinvigorated, reinvented. 85 00:04:57,600 --> 00:05:00,440 This little pilgrim's way sometimes comes through woods, 86 00:05:00,440 --> 00:05:02,400 and it's absolutely stunning 87 00:05:02,400 --> 00:05:04,600 just to get away off the beaten track. 88 00:05:04,600 --> 00:05:09,000 Whatever happens, I hope to be a much, much better person by the end of this. 89 00:05:09,000 --> 00:05:10,400 (SPEAKS JAPANESE) Thank you. 90 00:05:12,800 --> 00:05:14,720 (GASPS) 91 00:05:14,720 --> 00:05:16,880 What I've already learned along the way 92 00:05:16,880 --> 00:05:20,400 is that you can be quite specific about what you're looking for, 93 00:05:20,400 --> 00:05:23,080 and some of the temples have themes, like this one. 94 00:05:27,440 --> 00:05:28,800 This is very beautiful. 95 00:05:30,120 --> 00:05:34,040 I think that this temple is, sort of, dedicated to childbirth 96 00:05:34,040 --> 00:05:36,800 and procreation and so on. 97 00:05:41,840 --> 00:05:44,600 I think this is where pregnant women come, 98 00:05:44,600 --> 00:05:46,400 and this is where they hang... 99 00:05:47,640 --> 00:05:51,240 ..their little prayers and wishes, hope their dreams come true. 100 00:05:54,840 --> 00:05:59,480 Most Japanese people combine Buddhism with elements of Shintoism 101 00:05:59,480 --> 00:06:04,080 to form a more fluid spirituality rather than a defined religion. 102 00:06:04,080 --> 00:06:07,200 There's quite a crowd here. I'm going to make my way around here. 103 00:06:10,320 --> 00:06:12,280 (ALL CHANTING PRAYER) 104 00:06:14,320 --> 00:06:17,640 200,000 people complete this pilgrimage every year. 105 00:06:19,640 --> 00:06:22,200 Historically, you walked the route on your own, 106 00:06:22,200 --> 00:06:24,640 but these days, whole busloads of pilgrims 107 00:06:24,640 --> 00:06:27,240 choose to visit the temples en masse. 108 00:06:27,240 --> 00:06:29,920 Are you doing the whole trip? Whole trip. (GASPS) 109 00:06:29,920 --> 00:06:33,880 Walking? Erm, with bus, actually. And how long will that take you? 110 00:06:33,880 --> 00:06:38,560 Erm, it's... It will take two weeks. Two weeks. Mm. 111 00:06:38,560 --> 00:06:42,200 This one is dedicated to motherhood, procreation. 112 00:06:42,200 --> 00:06:44,600 Yes. My dream... What did you wish? 113 00:06:44,600 --> 00:06:46,960 I haven't, erm... You haven't got a child. 114 00:06:46,960 --> 00:06:50,080 Yes, so I asked him, so I hope. 115 00:06:50,080 --> 00:06:53,440 I hope so, too. Thank you. I think it will be good. 116 00:06:53,440 --> 00:06:55,800 It's lovely to meet you. What is your name? 117 00:06:55,800 --> 00:06:57,240 Chihiro. Chihiro. 118 00:06:58,440 --> 00:07:01,640 I knew I should have got a short-sleeved shirt, I knew that... 119 00:07:01,640 --> 00:07:04,560 I thought that I'd look... But now I see how chic, you see. 120 00:07:04,560 --> 00:07:06,720 Chic pilgrim. Not so chic pilgrim. 121 00:07:06,720 --> 00:07:08,800 It's good to meet you. Nice to meet you. 122 00:07:08,800 --> 00:07:12,600 Go safely. Thank you, you too. And have that baby. Oh, I hope so. 123 00:07:15,400 --> 00:07:17,280 Meeting such lovely people... 124 00:07:17,280 --> 00:07:18,400 Staff in there. 125 00:07:18,400 --> 00:07:20,880 ..is already making me feel good about life... 126 00:07:20,880 --> 00:07:22,680 (CLANGS) 127 00:07:27,640 --> 00:07:29,800 ..and getting my book signed at every temple 128 00:07:29,800 --> 00:07:32,480 makes me feel positively gleeful. 129 00:07:32,480 --> 00:07:35,880 It's got to be as beautiful as anything you've ever seen in your life. 130 00:07:38,200 --> 00:07:39,960 What could possibly go wrong? 131 00:07:41,200 --> 00:07:43,680 You can see my stick has slightly changed. 132 00:07:43,680 --> 00:07:46,840 Erm, the thing is that I'm afraid I left it. 133 00:07:46,840 --> 00:07:48,800 When you go into the temples, 134 00:07:48,800 --> 00:07:53,280 you put your beautiful staves and umbrellas, obviously, outside, 135 00:07:53,280 --> 00:07:56,760 and then you pick them up and go out, and I forgot to pick mine up, 136 00:07:56,760 --> 00:07:59,680 and so my beautiful and important embodiment of the saint, 137 00:07:59,680 --> 00:08:03,920 which I was going to take home, and wash, and give my best bed to, 138 00:08:03,920 --> 00:08:06,760 has gone, and I've got this bamboo one, which is... 139 00:08:09,360 --> 00:08:11,080 ..it's lovely. 140 00:08:14,320 --> 00:08:18,480 I wanted an apron. I knew I should have got an apron like this. It looks so trim and nice. 141 00:08:20,440 --> 00:08:23,040 Some of the temples are in extraordinary places. 142 00:08:25,280 --> 00:08:30,280 These excited pilgrims are all trying to catch a glimpse of the great man himself, Koubou Daishi. 143 00:08:31,680 --> 00:08:34,280 He once spent 50 days up on this mountain 144 00:08:34,280 --> 00:08:38,360 repeating a Buddhist text known as the sutra one million times. 145 00:08:47,800 --> 00:08:50,760 For my final temple, I'm up and out before dawn. 146 00:08:51,880 --> 00:08:53,400 (It's 5:30 in the morning.) 147 00:08:54,760 --> 00:08:56,400 (DISTANT CHANTING) 148 00:08:57,600 --> 00:08:59,520 (I'm off to hear some pilgrim chanting.) 149 00:09:01,320 --> 00:09:04,560 This extraordinary temple provides protection against 150 00:09:04,560 --> 00:09:07,040 those difficult years that we all go through. 151 00:09:08,240 --> 00:09:12,720 Here, the age of 33 is regarded as being particularly unlucky for women, 152 00:09:12,720 --> 00:09:15,320 hence the 33 steps. 153 00:09:15,320 --> 00:09:17,520 You're supposed to put a coin on every step, 154 00:09:17,520 --> 00:09:21,160 but, I mean, the truth is that I'm a little bit more than 33. 155 00:09:34,520 --> 00:09:36,480 (MONKS CHANTING) 156 00:09:46,640 --> 00:09:49,720 The monks perform these chants, or sutras, every morning... 157 00:09:50,880 --> 00:09:53,400 ..while the chief monk builds a consecrated fire 158 00:09:53,400 --> 00:09:55,880 that's believed to have a powerful cleansing effect. 159 00:09:59,360 --> 00:10:01,600 (CHIMES) 160 00:10:01,600 --> 00:10:03,680 (DRUMS BEATING) 161 00:10:06,440 --> 00:10:07,680 I'm delighted to learn 162 00:10:07,680 --> 00:10:10,720 that according to the Shingon doctrine that they practise here, 163 00:10:10,720 --> 00:10:14,200 enlightenment is not some distant, unattainable concept, 164 00:10:14,200 --> 00:10:18,040 but something achievable in life today. It gives us all hope. 165 00:10:20,840 --> 00:10:23,480 That was really lovely, lovely ceremony. 166 00:10:23,480 --> 00:10:25,520 I mean, apart from the chanting, and the... 167 00:10:26,800 --> 00:10:30,400 ..the booming of the great gong and the drum, 168 00:10:30,400 --> 00:10:32,920 the drumming which goes right through your heart, 169 00:10:32,920 --> 00:10:35,800 and just while we were in there, the sun's come up... 170 00:10:38,440 --> 00:10:40,560 ..and it's going to be another perfect day. 171 00:10:43,280 --> 00:10:46,320 Fujukoyuko is the 4th generation of his family 172 00:10:46,320 --> 00:10:51,360 to be a monk here at Yakuoji Temple, and I asked him to explain 173 00:10:51,360 --> 00:10:54,440 the significance of the age of 33 for women, 174 00:10:54,440 --> 00:10:57,320 and why it's regarded as being especially problematic. 175 00:10:59,240 --> 00:11:01,200 (SPEAKING JAPANESE) 176 00:11:06,400 --> 00:11:08,520 I'm very old now, and I feel fine. 177 00:11:21,960 --> 00:11:23,920 This is excellent. (BOTH LAUGH) 178 00:11:25,760 --> 00:11:28,440 I've started again. This is very good. 179 00:11:28,440 --> 00:11:33,200 Fantastic. Proof that I have, in fact, been rejuvenated by this pilgrimage. 180 00:11:34,760 --> 00:11:38,960 To come to Shikoku, and to follow a little bit of the pilgrimage trail 181 00:11:38,960 --> 00:11:41,840 has given me such a sense of peace, 182 00:11:41,840 --> 00:11:44,280 of reconnecting with the beauty of nature. 183 00:11:44,280 --> 00:11:47,240 Secretly I wish I could stay here for a little bit longer, 184 00:11:47,240 --> 00:11:49,120 but I've got to go. 185 00:12:00,400 --> 00:12:02,880 To get to my next island, Kyushu, 186 00:12:02,880 --> 00:12:06,120 I have to go via Honshu, where I jump on a bullet train 187 00:12:06,120 --> 00:12:10,200 to whisk me the 400 miles southwest to this fiery island. 188 00:12:11,360 --> 00:12:14,880 I'll be flirting with volcanoes, and messing about in big boats, 189 00:12:14,880 --> 00:12:17,640 and speaking to humanoids. 190 00:12:17,640 --> 00:12:19,640 (INDISTINCT ROBOT SPEECH) 191 00:12:25,340 --> 00:12:27,540 Thank you. Taxi? 192 00:12:27,540 --> 00:12:30,740 On my Japanese adventure, I've reached the island of Kyushu. 193 00:12:31,900 --> 00:12:36,100 It has great cities, busy harbours, and active volcanoes to contend with. 194 00:12:37,900 --> 00:12:40,620 I've also been recommended a very discreet little place. 195 00:12:42,180 --> 00:12:45,220 (ROBOT GREETS IN JAPANESE) Oh. 196 00:12:47,540 --> 00:12:49,780 Hello, I'm Joanna Lumley. I've booked a room- 197 00:12:49,780 --> 00:12:52,180 (AUTOMATED VOICE) Welcome to Henn-na Hotel. Yes. 198 00:12:52,180 --> 00:12:54,700 I will confirm your check-in information. Thank you. 199 00:12:54,700 --> 00:12:59,140 Please proceed to your right to complete the check-in process. All right. Here we are. 200 00:12:59,140 --> 00:13:01,540 Currently confirming your invoice. Thank you. 201 00:13:01,540 --> 00:13:05,500 Currently confirming your invoice. Yes, I heard you, I heard you. Thanks, darling. 202 00:13:05,500 --> 00:13:09,740 Lovely. Please... ROBOT 2: ..your receipt... What? You're both talking over... 203 00:13:09,740 --> 00:13:12,340 Please enjoy your stay. I will. Thank you so much. 204 00:13:12,340 --> 00:13:16,420 (SIGHS) Hello? Porter? 205 00:13:16,420 --> 00:13:20,220 The Henn-na Hotel is the world's first robot hotel. 206 00:13:20,220 --> 00:13:22,460 Robotic porter available in A-wing. 207 00:13:23,500 --> 00:13:27,100 It's run by robots to accommodate the thousands of foreign tourists 208 00:13:27,100 --> 00:13:29,100 now flooding into Japan. 209 00:13:31,940 --> 00:13:34,420 Yamaguchi-san, the hotel manager, 210 00:13:34,420 --> 00:13:37,580 is on-hand to explain a bit more of the concept. 211 00:13:37,580 --> 00:13:39,580 (SPEAKING JAPANESE) 212 00:13:53,380 --> 00:13:57,180 Robotic porter. 'Please put your suitcase/baggage on the robot, 213 00:13:57,180 --> 00:13:59,260 and put the chain around it.' There we are. 214 00:14:00,740 --> 00:14:04,220 There we go. Let's try to get there before the evening, shall we? 215 00:14:06,020 --> 00:14:09,860 This hotel staffed by robots must cost a lot of money. 216 00:14:09,860 --> 00:14:11,380 How can it make a profit? 217 00:14:24,460 --> 00:14:28,060 Every room in the hotel has its own personal robot. 218 00:14:28,060 --> 00:14:30,500 Meet my new friend Churi. 219 00:14:30,500 --> 00:14:32,660 Look at that little person. 220 00:14:32,660 --> 00:14:34,780 'Let's talk with me.' Here it is, how to talk. 221 00:14:34,780 --> 00:14:37,220 'You...' That's me. CHURI: May I help you? 222 00:14:37,220 --> 00:14:40,380 Yes, Churi, please can you ask the front desk 223 00:14:40,380 --> 00:14:42,900 to bring me some coffee, my little friend? 224 00:14:42,900 --> 00:14:46,060 May I help you? Yes, Churi, yes. 225 00:14:46,060 --> 00:14:49,420 So, erm, Churi... I will sing. 226 00:14:49,420 --> 00:14:52,820 Oh, what...? Will you? (SINGING IN JAPANESE) 227 00:14:55,900 --> 00:14:59,580 Oh, how lovely. (HUMMING) 228 00:15:02,340 --> 00:15:04,500 You can bring some champagne. 229 00:15:04,500 --> 00:15:07,300 You are going to sleep already. 230 00:15:07,300 --> 00:15:09,420 I would like a bottle of champagne on ice! 231 00:15:09,420 --> 00:15:12,060 I said a half-bottle but I now mean a full bottle. 232 00:15:12,060 --> 00:15:14,820 Churi, will you get me anything? Some, some... 233 00:15:16,100 --> 00:15:18,620 I know you can hear me. You're leaving again today. 234 00:15:18,620 --> 00:15:21,060 I'm not leaving again. I haven't even arrived. 235 00:15:21,060 --> 00:15:23,700 I've had nothing to eat, and I've had nothing to drink. 236 00:15:23,700 --> 00:15:25,460 May I help you? 237 00:15:26,540 --> 00:15:27,740 No. 238 00:15:27,740 --> 00:15:29,540 (SINGING IN JAPANESE) 239 00:15:41,980 --> 00:15:45,140 40 miles down the coast is Nagasaki, 240 00:15:45,140 --> 00:15:47,420 a city that all of us will have heard of. 241 00:15:58,300 --> 00:16:01,020 Nagasaki has flourished for centuries, 242 00:16:01,020 --> 00:16:03,020 its high hills sheltering the city 243 00:16:03,020 --> 00:16:05,420 and protecting a natural deep-water harbour. 244 00:16:06,620 --> 00:16:09,660 For early Europeans, Nagasaki was one of the few places 245 00:16:09,660 --> 00:16:12,420 the Japanese allowed trade with the outside world. 246 00:16:13,700 --> 00:16:15,540 The port and the city flourished. 247 00:16:16,900 --> 00:16:19,860 Today, shipyards, warehouses, cranes 248 00:16:19,860 --> 00:16:22,540 and colossal cruise ships fill the skyline. 249 00:16:24,420 --> 00:16:27,180 A fleet of muscular-looking tugs is the life-blood 250 00:16:27,180 --> 00:16:31,820 of this busy commercial harbour, and I've managed to wangle myself on board one of them. 251 00:16:35,620 --> 00:16:37,900 Early the next morning, I'm reporting for duty. 252 00:16:39,020 --> 00:16:40,700 It's not yet 6:00 in the morning, 253 00:16:40,700 --> 00:16:44,620 I'm down on the quayside, and this is the tug I'm joining. 254 00:16:45,900 --> 00:16:48,860 The Tomozuru, and I'm all equipped and ready. 255 00:16:48,860 --> 00:16:52,100 I've got my new...life jacket. 256 00:16:52,100 --> 00:16:54,500 It's a new way of wearing them, round the waist, 257 00:16:54,500 --> 00:16:57,180 not over the top like this. I think I can go on board. 258 00:17:06,300 --> 00:17:08,180 It's only when you get out on the water 259 00:17:08,180 --> 00:17:11,140 that you can see the extent of the ship-building industry 260 00:17:11,140 --> 00:17:13,140 that still goes on in Nagasaki. 261 00:17:14,340 --> 00:17:17,820 Dry docks, slipways - this one belongs to Mitsubishi... 262 00:17:19,260 --> 00:17:23,020 ..but our job this morning is to lead a Chinese cruise ship into port. 263 00:17:24,780 --> 00:17:27,220 I'm honoured by Toshihiro Ide, 264 00:17:27,220 --> 00:17:30,700 the owner of the company, who is on-hand to explain the plan. 265 00:17:30,700 --> 00:17:33,860 This is Nagasaki harbour. Yes. 266 00:17:33,860 --> 00:17:37,300 We come from this point, and come out... 267 00:17:37,300 --> 00:17:41,660 And this is Chinese Taishan, and we'll meet here. 268 00:17:47,100 --> 00:17:50,260 There are two ships here - one I can see very clearly, 269 00:17:50,260 --> 00:17:52,820 which has got a red hull, and the other... 270 00:17:54,180 --> 00:17:59,780 ..huge, coming in from the northwest, is the Chinese ship, the Taishan. 271 00:18:05,620 --> 00:18:09,020 We're leading her the safe way into the harbour. 272 00:18:09,020 --> 00:18:11,140 It all looks so beautiful. 273 00:18:11,140 --> 00:18:13,740 I can imagine what it must have been like... 274 00:18:13,740 --> 00:18:16,980 to be those early traders, because in this morning light, 275 00:18:16,980 --> 00:18:20,660 you can just see the shape of the hills, islands, rocks, 276 00:18:20,660 --> 00:18:23,060 sun banging off the water, 277 00:18:23,060 --> 00:18:26,220 sound of the wind, and the slapping of the waves. 278 00:18:26,220 --> 00:18:28,220 Terribly exciting. 279 00:18:30,020 --> 00:18:32,340 Japan has been in and out of recession 280 00:18:32,340 --> 00:18:34,660 since the '90s, but in recent years, 281 00:18:34,660 --> 00:18:37,980 tourism, especially with the Chinese, is booming. 282 00:18:37,980 --> 00:18:40,580 Japan and China are not always on the best of terms, 283 00:18:40,580 --> 00:18:42,780 so it's nice to see, at least, a cruise ship 284 00:18:42,780 --> 00:18:44,780 we're all blowing kisses to each other. 285 00:18:48,300 --> 00:18:51,020 You can just see now how our little tug the Tomozuru 286 00:18:51,020 --> 00:18:54,620 is nudging the Chinese Taishan so that she's in the right position. 287 00:18:56,820 --> 00:18:59,980 Now that's job done, and we're gonna go back, 288 00:18:59,980 --> 00:19:02,980 and I'm just gonna take over the trickier bits of getting in... 289 00:19:02,980 --> 00:19:04,980 I'll just take over. 290 00:19:07,580 --> 00:19:08,900 (GIGGLES) 291 00:19:12,100 --> 00:19:15,140 It was a pleasure to be on the Tomozuru, 292 00:19:15,140 --> 00:19:17,100 and arigatou, and thank you so much. 293 00:19:17,100 --> 00:19:19,500 Thank you very much indeed. Thank you very much. 294 00:19:19,500 --> 00:19:22,020 It was very good of you. It was lovely. Thank you. 295 00:19:25,900 --> 00:19:29,780 Today, Nagasaki is a bustling commercial city... 296 00:19:29,780 --> 00:19:34,900 but in 1945, its industrial output was directed to the Japanese war effort, 297 00:19:34,900 --> 00:19:38,500 fighting Allied troops in the bitter conflict in the Pacific. 298 00:19:40,260 --> 00:19:46,020 The Americans decided to try to end the war with nuclear weapons, and on 6th August, 299 00:19:46,020 --> 00:19:49,900 they dropped an atomic bomb on Hiroshima, killing 80,000 people... 300 00:19:51,100 --> 00:19:53,820 ..but the Japanese leadership still did not surrender... 301 00:19:55,100 --> 00:19:58,380 ..and so three days later, a second atomic bomb was detonated 302 00:19:58,380 --> 00:20:00,380 over the city of Nagasaki. 303 00:20:04,300 --> 00:20:07,500 Three days after that, the Japanese surrendered, 304 00:20:07,500 --> 00:20:10,180 and World War II, at last, came to an end... 305 00:20:13,700 --> 00:20:17,300 ..but the city of Nagasaki had paid a huge price. 306 00:20:23,020 --> 00:20:27,260 Shiroyama School, just 600m from the epicentre, 307 00:20:27,260 --> 00:20:29,820 was one of the few buildings left standing 308 00:20:29,820 --> 00:20:31,780 due to its concrete construction. 309 00:20:33,700 --> 00:20:37,260 Today, it's still a school and a living monument to peace. 310 00:20:39,180 --> 00:20:42,140 A statue of an 11-year-old boy, a pupil at the school 311 00:20:42,140 --> 00:20:44,900 who lost his life along with his entire family, 312 00:20:44,900 --> 00:20:46,900 now stands in the playground. 313 00:20:48,260 --> 00:20:50,340 It's very touching, because... 314 00:20:50,340 --> 00:20:52,380 Hello. Good morning. Hello. Good morning. 315 00:20:55,820 --> 00:20:59,100 ..not a single child has omitted to bow to the little statue. 316 00:20:59,100 --> 00:21:02,140 This bowing, it isn't something that happens on special days. 317 00:21:02,140 --> 00:21:04,940 Beginning of every single school day, round they come... 318 00:21:06,340 --> 00:21:08,300 ..and just pay their respects to peace. 319 00:21:11,860 --> 00:21:13,780 Who is the statue of? 320 00:21:13,780 --> 00:21:15,740 (SPEAKING JAPANESE) 321 00:21:25,660 --> 00:21:28,260 Oh. Oh. Thank you. 322 00:21:32,580 --> 00:21:34,780 Bye. (SPEAKING JAPANESE) 323 00:21:34,780 --> 00:21:39,220 Oh, brooms, bring the other broom. This broom's not working any more. 324 00:21:39,220 --> 00:21:41,660 I love it. They're all concentrating on the fact 325 00:21:41,660 --> 00:21:44,420 this is the souls of the departed, who were killed, 326 00:21:44,420 --> 00:21:46,580 and there seems to be no, sort of, acrimony. 327 00:21:46,580 --> 00:21:50,180 It's just very sweet, and peaceful, and respectful, but not sombre. 328 00:21:53,780 --> 00:21:57,140 A section of the original school has been made into a museum 329 00:21:57,140 --> 00:22:00,220 commemorating that dreadful day in August 1945. 330 00:22:02,660 --> 00:22:06,860 Matsuyoshi Ikira was a pupil of the school when the bomb dropped. 331 00:22:06,860 --> 00:22:10,020 Today he curates the museum. 332 00:22:10,020 --> 00:22:11,180 I'm Joanna. 333 00:22:12,340 --> 00:22:15,380 And is this the school here? (SPEAKING JAPANESE) 334 00:22:16,660 --> 00:22:20,980 This tower is absolutely destroyed, yeah. Phew. 335 00:22:20,980 --> 00:22:25,420 Well, this was before it was bombed, and then afterwards, nothing at all. 336 00:22:30,740 --> 00:22:36,420 So, will you describe to me what happened on that morning of August 9th? 337 00:22:36,420 --> 00:22:38,660 (SPEAKING JAPANESE) 338 00:23:37,540 --> 00:23:41,780 Matsuyoshi was less than half a mile from the centre of the explosion. 339 00:23:41,780 --> 00:23:46,020 Incredibly, his family's half-built shelter protected him from the blast, 340 00:23:46,020 --> 00:23:49,060 and subsequently from the harmful radiation. 341 00:24:19,860 --> 00:24:23,700 I love the city of Nagasaki, and it's good to see it thriving again 342 00:24:23,700 --> 00:24:26,180 after such an appalling episode in its history. 343 00:24:28,580 --> 00:24:32,340 I'm travelling 200 miles south to the very tip of the island... 344 00:24:32,340 --> 00:24:34,380 The third car. 345 00:24:34,380 --> 00:24:36,300 ..to the city of Kagoshima, 346 00:24:36,300 --> 00:24:39,580 which sits under a smouldering and very active volcano. 347 00:24:55,320 --> 00:24:58,120 I'm on the Shinkansen, or bullet train, 348 00:24:58,120 --> 00:25:02,600 and speeding southwards across Kyushu towards the city of Kagoshima, 349 00:25:02,600 --> 00:25:05,280 which is over 300km away 350 00:25:05,280 --> 00:25:09,080 and nestled under the active volcano of Sakurajima. 351 00:25:11,520 --> 00:25:15,000 It's taking me about 2.5 hours to travel the distance... 352 00:25:16,280 --> 00:25:20,000 ..which must mean I'm travelling at speeds approaching... 353 00:25:20,000 --> 00:25:24,520 If 160 is... If 8... It's 8 to 5, 354 00:25:24,520 --> 00:25:28,400 so...160 would be twice... 355 00:25:28,400 --> 00:25:30,400 Well, it's fast. Believe me. 356 00:25:32,000 --> 00:25:34,000 Due to its many active volcanoes, 357 00:25:34,000 --> 00:25:36,520 Kyushu is known as the island of fire. 358 00:25:38,040 --> 00:25:41,160 Japan sits on the junction of four tectonic plates, 359 00:25:41,160 --> 00:25:44,360 so the threat of natural disaster is never far away... 360 00:25:46,440 --> 00:25:50,400 ..and three days after I passed through this region, disaster struck. 361 00:25:51,560 --> 00:25:54,200 A series of earthquakes registering up to 6 362 00:25:54,200 --> 00:25:59,200 on Japan's seismic intensity scale collapsed buildings, ripped up roads, 363 00:25:59,200 --> 00:26:01,960 and stopped all trains running for days. 364 00:26:01,960 --> 00:26:04,360 Tragically, 48 people were killed. 365 00:26:08,800 --> 00:26:11,720 It's late by the time we reach the city of Kagoshima... 366 00:26:12,840 --> 00:26:14,880 ..but even in the falling light, 367 00:26:14,880 --> 00:26:19,200 I can see the ominous presence of Sakurajima looming over the city... 368 00:26:25,320 --> 00:26:27,400 ..and early the next morning, 369 00:26:27,400 --> 00:26:30,560 I'm on board a ferry bound for Sakurajima. 370 00:26:32,200 --> 00:26:35,680 You know, it's difficult to imagine a more precarious place to live, 371 00:26:35,680 --> 00:26:38,920 but 7,000 people choose to stay here 372 00:26:38,920 --> 00:26:41,440 under the shadow of this growling giant. 373 00:26:45,720 --> 00:26:49,680 On the island, such is the threat from debris thrown from the volcano 374 00:26:49,680 --> 00:26:51,760 that all school kids must wear hard hats 375 00:26:51,760 --> 00:26:53,800 on their way to and from school. 376 00:26:57,280 --> 00:27:00,120 They must sweep up volcanic ash from the playground... 377 00:27:01,680 --> 00:27:03,680 Piles of black volcanic dust, 378 00:27:03,680 --> 00:27:07,480 headmaster helping, and to think they do this every single morning. 379 00:27:07,480 --> 00:27:10,120 ..and they have regular evacuation drills. 380 00:27:10,120 --> 00:27:12,200 (MAN SPEAKING IN JAPANESE OVER PA) 381 00:27:12,200 --> 00:27:14,240 JOANNA: Let's go, let's go, let's go! 382 00:27:14,240 --> 00:27:17,440 Yeah, yeah, yeah, run, run, run, baby. Come on, let's go. 383 00:27:17,440 --> 00:27:19,200 This is a volcano drill. 384 00:27:24,680 --> 00:27:26,680 So, why would anybody in their right mind 385 00:27:26,680 --> 00:27:30,000 want to live so close to this smouldering brute of a volcano? 386 00:27:33,000 --> 00:27:34,880 The answer lies under your feet, 387 00:27:34,880 --> 00:27:39,200 in the incredible fertile soils thrown out from Sakurajima. 388 00:27:41,120 --> 00:27:44,640 Just get a bit of a clue of what I'm gonna find up here. 389 00:27:44,640 --> 00:27:47,960 Sakurajima is famous for its super-sized radishes. 390 00:27:49,720 --> 00:27:52,320 The current world record radish was grown here, 391 00:27:52,320 --> 00:27:56,640 and weighed in at over a back-breaking 31 kilos. 392 00:27:58,000 --> 00:28:02,280 Toshikiyo Murayama is the third generation to farm radishes here. 393 00:28:04,080 --> 00:28:05,640 This is fantastic. 394 00:28:05,640 --> 00:28:08,240 Look at that. Wow. 395 00:28:10,280 --> 00:28:13,560 Why do these radishes grow so huge just here? 396 00:28:14,120 --> 00:28:15,720 (SPEAKING JAPANESE) 397 00:28:22,400 --> 00:28:24,720 Rains down pumice stones, yeah. 398 00:28:24,720 --> 00:28:28,160 The pumice stone in the soil traps air and water, 399 00:28:28,160 --> 00:28:30,800 which promotes really good root development, 400 00:28:30,800 --> 00:28:32,920 and makes for some gigantic radishes. 401 00:28:34,400 --> 00:28:36,080 This one? 402 00:28:36,080 --> 00:28:39,440 Murayama-san, how long have you been farming here? 403 00:28:43,920 --> 00:28:45,240 Yeah, OK. 404 00:28:55,240 --> 00:28:57,680 (Not as easy as it looks.) 405 00:28:57,680 --> 00:28:59,840 OK, OK. OK, OK? 406 00:28:59,840 --> 00:29:02,680 Not brilliant, OK, but, sort of, not bad. 407 00:29:02,680 --> 00:29:05,760 (GRUNTS) Oh. Oh, that's a beauty. 408 00:29:07,200 --> 00:29:09,160 (STRAINING) 409 00:29:11,720 --> 00:29:13,120 That's more than... 410 00:29:13,120 --> 00:29:17,040 That's up to there, but I can't hold it much higher than that. 411 00:29:17,040 --> 00:29:19,960 That's the beauty shot. That's all I can do. Sorry. 412 00:29:22,840 --> 00:29:25,800 This is hard work, harvesting radishes. 413 00:29:25,800 --> 00:29:27,720 Murayama-san, do you have a son? 414 00:29:30,000 --> 00:29:31,920 Will he take over farming from you? 415 00:29:35,200 --> 00:29:36,560 Yeah. 416 00:29:40,640 --> 00:29:42,240 Yeah, let's do it. 417 00:29:44,600 --> 00:29:47,520 Look at this dish of food. Could anything look lovelier? 418 00:29:47,520 --> 00:29:50,040 It's got radish flowers on the top... 419 00:29:50,040 --> 00:29:52,320 shredded radish or something inside. 420 00:29:53,520 --> 00:29:55,440 That's gorgeous. 421 00:29:55,440 --> 00:29:59,360 The offer of a radish lunch did make me a little apprehensive, 422 00:29:59,360 --> 00:30:02,640 but I was completely blown away by what was put in front of me. 423 00:30:02,640 --> 00:30:05,640 (GASPS) Look at this. 424 00:30:05,640 --> 00:30:09,040 That's a picture. Could you ever see anything lovelier than that? 425 00:30:09,040 --> 00:30:13,120 I mean, look at this, these are shreds of radish which look like spaghetti. 426 00:30:13,120 --> 00:30:15,400 Admit it - you want to eat that. 427 00:30:15,400 --> 00:30:17,080 Well, I do, obviously. 428 00:30:19,840 --> 00:30:22,880 Given its volatile nature, there are teams of scientists 429 00:30:22,880 --> 00:30:25,360 who are constantly monitoring Sakurajima. 430 00:30:26,920 --> 00:30:31,800 I'm joining Professor Keigo Yamamoto on a flight right over the volcano. 431 00:30:36,200 --> 00:30:40,240 Yamamoto-san, when was the last big eruption? 432 00:30:40,240 --> 00:30:42,000 Oh, last night. 433 00:30:42,000 --> 00:30:44,760 Last night? I see. Every day we have. 434 00:30:44,760 --> 00:30:47,840 You have had eruptions every week, every day. My gosh. 435 00:30:51,000 --> 00:30:53,440 Oh, look, we're coming round to the top of it now. 436 00:30:53,440 --> 00:30:55,160 You can see the crater right there. 437 00:30:56,840 --> 00:30:58,720 I can see now where the smoke's coming... 438 00:30:58,720 --> 00:31:01,080 Yes, another ridge inside the crater. 439 00:31:02,920 --> 00:31:05,200 I can smell sulphur, too. 440 00:31:05,200 --> 00:31:07,560 It's all apocalyptic, it's absolutely fantastic. 441 00:31:08,680 --> 00:31:12,200 Look at that. Oh, that's extraordinary. 442 00:31:14,520 --> 00:31:16,320 Just gorgeous. 443 00:31:17,440 --> 00:31:19,920 Smoke coming out of the fissures all around it, 444 00:31:19,920 --> 00:31:23,600 and the sharp, sharp edge from where it had blown its top. 445 00:31:24,880 --> 00:31:27,720 It feels as if we're back at the beginning of the world. 446 00:31:27,720 --> 00:31:29,720 This is how the world was formed. 447 00:31:31,000 --> 00:31:36,320 Yamamoto-san, thank you so much. It's beautiful, isn't it? 448 00:31:46,080 --> 00:31:49,560 It's "sayonara" to the volatile, fiery island of Kyushu, 449 00:31:49,560 --> 00:31:54,800 and saying "konichiwa" to the long archipelago of the Ryukyu Islands 450 00:31:54,800 --> 00:31:58,840 that stretch 700 miles south, nearly all the way to Taiwan. 451 00:32:02,200 --> 00:32:05,040 The people of these islands are ethnically different 452 00:32:05,040 --> 00:32:10,400 to the mainland people of Japan, and maintained their independence up until 1879. 453 00:32:11,720 --> 00:32:14,040 My first stop is the island of Okinawa. 454 00:32:15,200 --> 00:32:17,960 I don't know why, but somehow I imagined that Okinawa 455 00:32:17,960 --> 00:32:20,240 would be a tiny tropical paradise... 456 00:32:22,160 --> 00:32:24,160 ..but it's mostly a city landscape. 457 00:32:24,160 --> 00:32:27,800 It's been colonised by the Japanese since the mid-19th century... 458 00:32:30,720 --> 00:32:32,920 ..by the Americans since the end of the war, 459 00:32:32,920 --> 00:32:36,920 but Okinawa has an ancient art all of its own which started here, 460 00:32:36,920 --> 00:32:40,480 which has gone on to conquer almost every country in the world. 461 00:32:51,640 --> 00:32:54,920 Karate was invented right here in Okinawa. 462 00:32:54,920 --> 00:32:58,840 It derives from the indigenous martial arts of the Ryukyu Islands, 463 00:32:58,840 --> 00:33:01,720 and it's called "karate", meaning "open hand". 464 00:33:01,720 --> 00:33:03,080 (YELLS) 465 00:33:04,640 --> 00:33:06,560 It spread to the Japanese mainland 466 00:33:06,560 --> 00:33:09,520 and the rest of the world in the early 20th century. 467 00:33:14,800 --> 00:33:16,320 (SPEAKS JAPANESE) 468 00:33:17,640 --> 00:33:22,040 Higaonna-sensei is 77 years old and a karate legend. 469 00:33:23,720 --> 00:33:25,080 (SPEAKS JAPANESE) 470 00:33:27,080 --> 00:33:29,160 He's black belt 10th dan, 471 00:33:29,160 --> 00:33:32,080 and was once considered the most dangerous man in Okinawa. 472 00:33:33,320 --> 00:33:37,720 If I was beginning today to learn karate, 473 00:33:37,720 --> 00:33:39,960 what was the first thing I would do? 474 00:33:43,840 --> 00:33:46,280 No, this strong, but very slow. 475 00:33:47,440 --> 00:33:52,000 So, so, yes, some pull back. Then that sort of way? 476 00:33:52,000 --> 00:33:53,720 Right hand, left hand together. 477 00:33:54,920 --> 00:33:59,840 Yes, so, so. Is that better? Very good. Very good. 478 00:33:59,840 --> 00:34:03,560 I can remember as Purdey, in the New Avengers, doing that, 479 00:34:03,560 --> 00:34:05,240 and also going past somebody, 480 00:34:05,240 --> 00:34:07,200 pulling their foot and shoving them over. 481 00:34:08,480 --> 00:34:12,440 (SIGHS) Long-ago days. Those were pretty much 40 years ago. 482 00:34:25,440 --> 00:34:27,960 The island of Okinawa was known around the world 483 00:34:27,960 --> 00:34:30,160 for the terrible battle that was fought here 484 00:34:30,160 --> 00:34:33,520 towards the end of the Second World War, 70 years ago. 485 00:34:35,600 --> 00:34:38,440 The island had huge strategic importance 486 00:34:38,440 --> 00:34:42,440 and was the first Japanese soil that the American forces would set foot on. 487 00:34:45,000 --> 00:34:47,480 At the Cornerstone of Peace monument, 488 00:34:47,480 --> 00:34:49,640 I met Masahide Ota, 489 00:34:49,640 --> 00:34:52,600 who, like thousands of young men from the local population, 490 00:34:52,600 --> 00:34:54,560 was conscripted into the army, 491 00:34:54,560 --> 00:34:57,040 and made to fight against the invading Americans. 492 00:34:59,120 --> 00:35:03,000 When the American fleet arrived, was it here? 493 00:35:03,000 --> 00:35:07,360 American soldiers came in, we were fighting there, you know, 494 00:35:07,360 --> 00:35:09,840 along this sea shore. 495 00:35:09,840 --> 00:35:13,480 American battleships were all over the place, you know. 496 00:35:17,360 --> 00:35:19,960 During the 88-day battle, he deserted 497 00:35:19,960 --> 00:35:23,360 and, with hundreds of others, hid in caves along this shoreline. 498 00:35:25,040 --> 00:35:27,480 He saw nearly all his comrades die, 499 00:35:27,480 --> 00:35:31,000 but he overcame hunger, thirst, and injury 500 00:35:31,000 --> 00:35:34,280 eventually to emerge and surrender to the Americans. 501 00:35:35,880 --> 00:35:38,520 I was hiding in the cave, 502 00:35:38,520 --> 00:35:42,040 no...no food, no water... 503 00:35:43,200 --> 00:35:47,600 ..always, "Today I will die," and "Tomorrow I will die," 504 00:35:47,600 --> 00:35:50,960 I've been always like that, you know. 505 00:35:52,240 --> 00:35:54,760 Even today I don't know how many days 506 00:35:54,760 --> 00:35:59,080 I was like that, you know, so why I could survive? 507 00:36:00,720 --> 00:36:04,920 So I said my purpose that I had survived 508 00:36:04,920 --> 00:36:08,520 was to guarantee, never again, 509 00:36:08,520 --> 00:36:10,560 we will not have war. 510 00:36:12,560 --> 00:36:16,600 After the war, Ota-san went on to become governor of the island 511 00:36:16,600 --> 00:36:20,280 and dedicated many years to establishing this peace park 512 00:36:20,280 --> 00:36:23,600 to commemorate the battle and the thousands of Japanese, 513 00:36:23,600 --> 00:36:27,440 Okinawan, and American soldiers who died fighting here. 514 00:36:29,200 --> 00:36:32,720 More than 240,000 people 515 00:36:32,720 --> 00:36:35,280 names are engraved here. 516 00:36:37,120 --> 00:36:41,080 Ota-san, this is the most extraordinary place you have created. 517 00:36:41,080 --> 00:36:42,280 Beautiful. 518 00:36:42,280 --> 00:36:45,520 It's very wonderful that you came from England. 519 00:36:45,520 --> 00:36:48,640 That's so far away, and I really appreciate. 520 00:36:54,400 --> 00:36:57,880 In the south of the island, high above the capital Naha, 521 00:36:57,880 --> 00:37:01,040 lie the wartime Japanese naval headquarters, 522 00:37:01,040 --> 00:37:03,040 which are dug deep into the rock. 523 00:37:05,600 --> 00:37:08,480 As the US 6th Marine Corps closed in, 524 00:37:08,480 --> 00:37:10,960 large numbers of young Japanese sailors 525 00:37:10,960 --> 00:37:13,960 were ordered underground to make their last stand. 526 00:37:15,600 --> 00:37:19,840 All over Okinawa, there are hundreds of graves and shrines 527 00:37:19,840 --> 00:37:22,320 commemorating the dead from both sides of the war... 528 00:37:23,400 --> 00:37:25,280 ..but here, in what remains 529 00:37:25,280 --> 00:37:28,440 of the imperial Japanese naval headquarters, 530 00:37:28,440 --> 00:37:31,720 thousands of young men made the final sacrifice, 531 00:37:31,720 --> 00:37:35,920 but they chose to commit ritual suicide 532 00:37:35,920 --> 00:37:38,960 rather than surrender to the American forces. 533 00:37:38,960 --> 00:37:44,640 This network of tunnels, carved from rock by hand, 534 00:37:44,640 --> 00:37:47,120 now serves as a chilling memorial to them. 535 00:37:49,880 --> 00:37:53,280 The tunnels are as they were in 1945, 536 00:37:53,280 --> 00:37:56,240 and you still get a strong sense of all the young men 537 00:37:56,240 --> 00:37:58,200 who fought and died here. 538 00:38:00,400 --> 00:38:02,720 It's incredibly clammy down here. 539 00:38:02,720 --> 00:38:05,120 It's got gutters with water running down. 540 00:38:07,320 --> 00:38:11,360 It's just ghastly, it's like... it's like walking into a... 541 00:38:11,360 --> 00:38:13,240 Well, it is, it's walking into a tomb, 542 00:38:13,240 --> 00:38:16,520 if you think of thousands of young men, 543 00:38:16,520 --> 00:38:19,640 thousands of young men killing themselves down here. 544 00:38:20,880 --> 00:38:25,160 When the tunnels were opened, there were about 2,500 bodies down here... 545 00:38:26,320 --> 00:38:29,520 ..and on the damaged walls, you can still see the terrible evidence 546 00:38:29,520 --> 00:38:31,640 of a group suicide. 547 00:38:31,640 --> 00:38:34,440 "Wall riddled with a hand grenade when committed suicide." 548 00:38:35,920 --> 00:38:38,080 And this was somebody killing themselves 549 00:38:38,080 --> 00:38:40,000 and a hand grenade going off. 550 00:38:41,480 --> 00:38:43,880 It must have been like a charnel house here. 551 00:38:45,280 --> 00:38:46,640 This goes up. 552 00:38:54,800 --> 00:38:56,280 (SOBBING) 553 00:38:58,560 --> 00:38:59,880 Oh, boys. 554 00:39:01,800 --> 00:39:03,800 I find this so... 555 00:39:05,760 --> 00:39:07,280 ..so unbearable. 556 00:39:08,440 --> 00:39:12,480 I mean, war is unbearable anyway, but to think that people... 557 00:39:12,480 --> 00:39:15,160 people felt so ashamed 558 00:39:15,160 --> 00:39:17,600 about being taken captive that they would... 559 00:39:17,600 --> 00:39:20,520 Young ones whose lives had hardly started. 560 00:39:28,920 --> 00:39:32,160 It's so good to see the open air after that. 561 00:39:32,160 --> 00:39:35,400 I can't tell you how overpowering it is down there. 562 00:39:35,400 --> 00:39:38,240 It's just dreadful, I don't know, there's something about... 563 00:39:39,440 --> 00:39:41,880 It's, sort of, in living memory, of course, 564 00:39:41,880 --> 00:39:45,560 there are old people now who can remember it, particularly here in Okinawa... 565 00:39:47,920 --> 00:39:51,480 ..and it just shows you how utterly ghastly war is. 566 00:39:55,440 --> 00:39:57,400 God, what a ghastly place. 567 00:39:59,760 --> 00:40:01,280 (SIGHS) 568 00:40:05,480 --> 00:40:07,600 Anyway, it's peaceful now. 569 00:40:30,760 --> 00:40:34,200 I'm nearing the end of my long Japanese journey. 570 00:40:34,200 --> 00:40:37,000 We've just travelled 300 miles 571 00:40:37,000 --> 00:40:39,480 to almost the southernmost part of Japan, 572 00:40:39,480 --> 00:40:43,040 1,500 miles south of Tokyo. 573 00:40:43,040 --> 00:40:45,600 We're going to an island called Kohama. 574 00:40:49,680 --> 00:40:52,760 There's a lovely group of old ladies there 575 00:40:52,760 --> 00:40:55,400 who have discovered a different way of keeping young. 576 00:40:56,560 --> 00:40:58,320 Maybe I'll learn something. 577 00:41:02,560 --> 00:41:06,240 This remote coral island's population is just 600, 578 00:41:06,240 --> 00:41:09,720 but 33 of them managed to pull off a pop sensation, 579 00:41:09,720 --> 00:41:13,880 clinching a No.1 hit in the Japanese charts of 2015 580 00:41:13,880 --> 00:41:17,200 with their catchy little number Come On And Dance Kohama. 581 00:41:18,280 --> 00:41:21,400 Their group is called KBG84 - 582 00:41:21,400 --> 00:41:25,080 "KBG", an acronym for Kohama Grandmother Choir, 583 00:41:25,080 --> 00:41:27,320 and "84" is their average age. 584 00:41:28,560 --> 00:41:31,480 This is a slightly different version of the ladies who lunch, 585 00:41:31,480 --> 00:41:34,600 because here they all are, these incredibly funky-looking people. 586 00:41:34,600 --> 00:41:38,600 They are all 80 or more, that's the only difference. 587 00:41:38,600 --> 00:41:41,720 The ladies' pre-lunch grace reaffirms their theory 588 00:41:41,720 --> 00:41:45,520 about how to get every last little bit of goodness out of life. 589 00:41:45,520 --> 00:41:47,560 (ALL RECITE IN JAPANESE) 590 00:42:09,800 --> 00:42:12,320 The girls made a video of their No.1 hit, 591 00:42:12,320 --> 00:42:15,360 and have since toured the country to sell-out gigs... 592 00:42:16,760 --> 00:42:19,200 ..and we're all revving up for another performance. 593 00:42:21,640 --> 00:42:23,760 (ALL SINGING COME ON AND DANCE KOHAMA) 594 00:42:54,760 --> 00:42:57,080 Everybody on this little island got in on the act. 595 00:43:07,880 --> 00:43:11,960 I went off to meet one of the tiniest but biggest stars of the group 596 00:43:11,960 --> 00:43:14,360 to find out about her secret of success. 597 00:43:15,800 --> 00:43:19,080 This is the house of Tomi-san. She's 92 years old. 598 00:43:23,720 --> 00:43:25,240 Tomi-san... Oh. 599 00:43:28,440 --> 00:43:29,880 (SPEAKING JAPANESE) 600 00:43:34,440 --> 00:43:38,600 Oh, Tomi-san. Arigatou. Thank you. 601 00:43:39,880 --> 00:43:44,520 Tomi-san, tell me, how do you keep looking and feeling so young? 602 00:44:02,600 --> 00:44:05,840 And tell me the secret of your energy. 603 00:44:23,200 --> 00:44:24,480 Arigatou. 604 00:44:30,640 --> 00:44:35,120 I didn't know these islands, right at the southernmost tip of Japan, even existed... 605 00:44:37,120 --> 00:44:40,480 ..but coming all this way and meeting people like Tomi-san 606 00:44:40,480 --> 00:44:42,800 has been inspiring, 607 00:44:42,800 --> 00:44:46,960 and if at her age I have half her energy, I'll be delighted. 608 00:44:55,000 --> 00:44:59,400 We started this journey almost a stone's throw from Russia, 609 00:44:59,400 --> 00:45:01,800 and we're ending it on this beach in Kohama, 610 00:45:01,800 --> 00:45:06,920 practically within sight of Taiwan, a journey of over 2,000 miles. 611 00:45:06,920 --> 00:45:12,080 And this has struck me. No matter how varied the climate or the scenery - 612 00:45:12,080 --> 00:45:16,040 the frozen, icy sea, deep, snowy forests, 613 00:45:16,040 --> 00:45:18,480 mild evenings under the cherry blossom, 614 00:45:18,480 --> 00:45:21,920 volcanoes, children's schools, crowded cities... 615 00:45:23,040 --> 00:45:27,480 ..the one thing that has remained constant is the endless kindness, 616 00:45:27,480 --> 00:45:31,280 friendliness and courtesy of everyone we've met in this fabulous country. 617 00:45:32,720 --> 00:45:37,040 When I came here, I wondered how strange and alien it would be... 618 00:45:38,120 --> 00:45:40,040 ..to our life in the western world... 619 00:45:41,200 --> 00:45:44,680 ..and, you know, now it just feels like home from home. 620 00:45:47,200 --> 00:45:49,720 Except for lavatories. They're far better here. 621 00:45:58,120 --> 00:45:49,720 subtitles by Deluxe 52566

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