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JOANNA: This is the last part
of my 2,000-mile journey,
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00:00:04,800 --> 00:00:07,880
travelling the length of Japan
from north to south,
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00:00:07,880 --> 00:00:10,760
with intriguing adventures
and fascinating people
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00:00:10,760 --> 00:00:12,480
across its hundreds of islands.
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00:00:13,720 --> 00:00:17,520
I'm leaving Honshu,
which is the biggest of
the four principal Japanese islands,
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00:00:17,520 --> 00:00:19,960
and going down to Shikoku,
which is the smallest.
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00:00:19,960 --> 00:00:22,680
It's got 4 million people,
so it's not exactly tiny.
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00:00:24,240 --> 00:00:27,120
And from Shikoku,
it's over 1,000 miles
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00:00:27,120 --> 00:00:31,760
to the southernmost tip of Japan,
an archipelago of Pacific islands.
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00:00:31,760 --> 00:00:33,440
Look at this view.
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00:00:34,920 --> 00:00:38,280
We'll see great cities
and stunning landscapes.
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00:00:38,280 --> 00:00:40,920
Oh, that's a beauty.
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00:00:40,920 --> 00:00:43,360
I'll reveal Japan's
most ancient secrets...
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00:00:44,680 --> 00:00:46,800
..and some of its most
modern achievements...
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00:00:48,080 --> 00:00:50,640
..and we're starting here
on this amazing bridge,
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built between Honshu and Shikoku.
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00:00:54,360 --> 00:00:57,600
It's absolutely bristling
with superlatives.
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00:00:57,600 --> 00:01:00,920
Listen to these s-st-statistics,
if I can say the word properly.
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00:01:00,920 --> 00:01:04,360
1,991m long,
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282m high,
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which makes it the longest
and the highest suspension bridge
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in the whole world.
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Come with me to Japan.
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Yay. (GIGGLES)
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00:01:21,400 --> 00:01:22,720
(GONG TOLLS)
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00:01:23,800 --> 00:01:25,640
It's sunrise on Shikoku...
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00:01:25,640 --> 00:01:27,200
(MONKS CHANTING PRAYER)
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00:01:27,200 --> 00:01:31,560
..and across the island,
monks perform a ceremony
dating back to the 6th century.
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00:01:37,040 --> 00:01:40,880
35% of Japan is Buddhist,
and all over the island,
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00:01:40,880 --> 00:01:43,920
thousands of white-clad,
faithful pilgrims can be seen
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making their way between
the 88 temples along the route.
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00:01:53,200 --> 00:01:55,400
I've never been
on a pilgrimage before,
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00:01:55,400 --> 00:01:58,360
but with these delightful outfits,
I think I feel the calling.
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00:01:59,600 --> 00:02:02,480
David-san? Oh, hi!
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00:02:02,480 --> 00:02:05,600
David Morden has lived in Japan
for 25 years,
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00:02:05,600 --> 00:02:07,960
and he's going to point me
in the right direction.
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00:02:07,960 --> 00:02:10,520
The journey takes you on...
How long, how far away?
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00:02:10,520 --> 00:02:13,840
It's about 1,200km... Ooh.
..so it takes a while
to get around.
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00:02:13,840 --> 00:02:15,880
You've done it, of course. Yes.
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00:02:15,880 --> 00:02:18,640
How many times? Just once, really.
Just once? (LAUGHS)
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00:02:19,880 --> 00:02:24,440
The pilgrimage is to honour Shikoku's
most famous son Koubou Daishi,
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00:02:24,440 --> 00:02:28,360
who lived here and brought
Shingon Buddhism to Japan from China
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00:02:28,360 --> 00:02:30,360
in the 9th century.
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00:02:33,240 --> 00:02:35,440
Before I follow
in the great man's footsteps,
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00:02:35,440 --> 00:02:37,440
I need to dress appropriately.
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00:02:37,440 --> 00:02:40,720
I might have to put something else
on, but I'm loving this already.
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00:02:40,720 --> 00:02:44,000
I can hear my voice
echoing up underneath it.
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00:02:44,000 --> 00:02:46,120
Do I need a staff?
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00:02:46,120 --> 00:02:49,520
The staff represents
the embodiment of Koubou Daishi,
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00:02:49,520 --> 00:02:51,480
so it's important to get
the right one.
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00:02:51,480 --> 00:02:53,200
I think that would be a nice one.
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00:02:53,200 --> 00:02:55,840
Or do you think I should have
a more Buddhist colour?
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00:02:55,840 --> 00:02:58,600
I think I might go for one of
the rich Buddhist colours.
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00:02:58,600 --> 00:03:02,320
I've now changed my mind.
I'm not gonna have that one,
I'm having this one.
55
00:03:02,320 --> 00:03:05,880
No, I'm not, actually.
I like the colour.
I'm not gonna have that one.
56
00:03:05,880 --> 00:03:08,000
I think I want long sleeves,
don't you? OK.
57
00:03:08,000 --> 00:03:09,440
It doesn't look very smart,
58
00:03:09,440 --> 00:03:11,520
I think I look...
I don't look very good.
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00:03:11,520 --> 00:03:13,320
What do you think? What do you think?
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00:03:14,520 --> 00:03:17,920
I'm now kitted out with
all sorts of pilgrim paraphernalia,
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00:03:17,920 --> 00:03:20,480
fully equipped to experience
temple No.1.
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00:03:21,640 --> 00:03:23,840
So, a lot of people
put the staff here.
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00:03:23,840 --> 00:03:27,880
Some of these look quite old.
Often people forget them...
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00:03:27,880 --> 00:03:31,960
because you get very busy
with the incense and the candle
and everything.
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00:03:31,960 --> 00:03:35,120
I wouldn't forget mine.
I would never forget my stick.
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00:03:39,920 --> 00:03:41,680
Incense. Yes.
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00:03:46,520 --> 00:03:49,480
These huge lanterns
which have swastikas on them,
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00:03:49,480 --> 00:03:52,480
which, of course,
in the east, are signs of peace.
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00:03:52,480 --> 00:03:56,240
Right above us,
an extraordinary dragon.
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00:03:56,240 --> 00:03:59,040
My pilgrim hat won't let me see
exactly what he's up to.
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00:03:59,040 --> 00:04:01,440
He's got talons and the full moon.
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00:04:06,200 --> 00:04:08,880
As the end of your life
comes into view,
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00:04:08,880 --> 00:04:11,920
it, sort of, becomes late afternoon,
evening of your life,
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00:04:11,920 --> 00:04:15,520
you begin to think back
and you begin to try to ponder on
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00:04:15,520 --> 00:04:18,800
what's good and bad,
and what's it all about, Alfie,
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00:04:18,800 --> 00:04:22,080
and that sort of thing,
and although I've never made
a pilgrimage,
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this seems like a good time to start.
I've got all the kit, for a start.
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00:04:27,320 --> 00:04:29,480
Well, off I go.
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00:04:33,800 --> 00:04:35,560
(SPEAKS JAPANESE)
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00:04:35,560 --> 00:04:39,120
Oh, you are wonderful. Arigatou.
Thank you so much.
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00:04:42,560 --> 00:04:43,840
(CLANGS)
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00:04:46,240 --> 00:04:49,320
I wonder if at the end of
my pilgrimage, I'll be recharged...
83
00:04:50,880 --> 00:04:54,920
Gorgeous onions. They grow things
so beautifully round here.
84
00:04:54,920 --> 00:04:57,600
..reinvigorated, reinvented.
85
00:04:57,600 --> 00:05:00,440
This little pilgrim's way
sometimes comes through woods,
86
00:05:00,440 --> 00:05:02,400
and it's absolutely stunning
87
00:05:02,400 --> 00:05:04,600
just to get away
off the beaten track.
88
00:05:04,600 --> 00:05:09,000
Whatever happens, I hope to be
a much, much better person
by the end of this.
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00:05:09,000 --> 00:05:10,400
(SPEAKS JAPANESE) Thank you.
90
00:05:12,800 --> 00:05:14,720
(GASPS)
91
00:05:14,720 --> 00:05:16,880
What I've already
learned along the way
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00:05:16,880 --> 00:05:20,400
is that you can be quite specific
about what you're looking for,
93
00:05:20,400 --> 00:05:23,080
and some of the temples
have themes, like this one.
94
00:05:27,440 --> 00:05:28,800
This is very beautiful.
95
00:05:30,120 --> 00:05:34,040
I think that this temple
is, sort of, dedicated to childbirth
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00:05:34,040 --> 00:05:36,800
and procreation and so on.
97
00:05:41,840 --> 00:05:44,600
I think this is where
pregnant women come,
98
00:05:44,600 --> 00:05:46,400
and this is where they hang...
99
00:05:47,640 --> 00:05:51,240
..their little prayers and wishes,
hope their dreams come true.
100
00:05:54,840 --> 00:05:59,480
Most Japanese people combine Buddhism
with elements of Shintoism
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00:05:59,480 --> 00:06:04,080
to form a more fluid spirituality
rather than a defined religion.
102
00:06:04,080 --> 00:06:07,200
There's quite a crowd here.
I'm going to make my way around here.
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00:06:10,320 --> 00:06:12,280
(ALL CHANTING PRAYER)
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00:06:14,320 --> 00:06:17,640
200,000 people complete
this pilgrimage every year.
105
00:06:19,640 --> 00:06:22,200
Historically, you walked
the route on your own,
106
00:06:22,200 --> 00:06:24,640
but these days,
whole busloads of pilgrims
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00:06:24,640 --> 00:06:27,240
choose to visit the temples en masse.
108
00:06:27,240 --> 00:06:29,920
Are you doing the whole trip?
Whole trip. (GASPS)
109
00:06:29,920 --> 00:06:33,880
Walking? Erm, with bus, actually.
And how long will that take you?
110
00:06:33,880 --> 00:06:38,560
Erm, it's... It will take two weeks.
Two weeks. Mm.
111
00:06:38,560 --> 00:06:42,200
This one is dedicated
to motherhood, procreation.
112
00:06:42,200 --> 00:06:44,600
Yes. My dream... What did you wish?
113
00:06:44,600 --> 00:06:46,960
I haven't, erm...
You haven't got a child.
114
00:06:46,960 --> 00:06:50,080
Yes, so I asked him, so I hope.
115
00:06:50,080 --> 00:06:53,440
I hope so, too. Thank you.
I think it will be good.
116
00:06:53,440 --> 00:06:55,800
It's lovely to meet you.
What is your name?
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00:06:55,800 --> 00:06:57,240
Chihiro. Chihiro.
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00:06:58,440 --> 00:07:01,640
I knew I should have got
a short-sleeved shirt, I knew that...
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00:07:01,640 --> 00:07:04,560
I thought that I'd look...
But now I see how chic, you see.
120
00:07:04,560 --> 00:07:06,720
Chic pilgrim. Not so chic pilgrim.
121
00:07:06,720 --> 00:07:08,800
It's good to meet you.
Nice to meet you.
122
00:07:08,800 --> 00:07:12,600
Go safely. Thank you, you too.
And have that baby. Oh, I hope so.
123
00:07:15,400 --> 00:07:17,280
Meeting such lovely people...
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00:07:17,280 --> 00:07:18,400
Staff in there.
125
00:07:18,400 --> 00:07:20,880
..is already making me
feel good about life...
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00:07:20,880 --> 00:07:22,680
(CLANGS)
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00:07:27,640 --> 00:07:29,800
..and getting my book signed
at every temple
128
00:07:29,800 --> 00:07:32,480
makes me feel positively gleeful.
129
00:07:32,480 --> 00:07:35,880
It's got to be as beautiful
as anything you've ever seen
in your life.
130
00:07:38,200 --> 00:07:39,960
What could possibly go wrong?
131
00:07:41,200 --> 00:07:43,680
You can see my stick
has slightly changed.
132
00:07:43,680 --> 00:07:46,840
Erm, the thing is that
I'm afraid I left it.
133
00:07:46,840 --> 00:07:48,800
When you go into the temples,
134
00:07:48,800 --> 00:07:53,280
you put your beautiful staves
and umbrellas, obviously, outside,
135
00:07:53,280 --> 00:07:56,760
and then you pick them up and go out,
and I forgot to pick mine up,
136
00:07:56,760 --> 00:07:59,680
and so my beautiful and important
embodiment of the saint,
137
00:07:59,680 --> 00:08:03,920
which I was going to take home,
and wash, and give my best bed to,
138
00:08:03,920 --> 00:08:06,760
has gone, and I've got
this bamboo one, which is...
139
00:08:09,360 --> 00:08:11,080
..it's lovely.
140
00:08:14,320 --> 00:08:18,480
I wanted an apron. I knew I should
have got an apron like this.
It looks so trim and nice.
141
00:08:20,440 --> 00:08:23,040
Some of the temples
are in extraordinary places.
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00:08:25,280 --> 00:08:30,280
These excited pilgrims
are all trying to catch a glimpse of
the great man himself, Koubou Daishi.
143
00:08:31,680 --> 00:08:34,280
He once spent
50 days up on this mountain
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00:08:34,280 --> 00:08:38,360
repeating a Buddhist text
known as the sutra one million times.
145
00:08:47,800 --> 00:08:50,760
For my final temple,
I'm up and out before dawn.
146
00:08:51,880 --> 00:08:53,400
(It's 5:30 in the morning.)
147
00:08:54,760 --> 00:08:56,400
(DISTANT CHANTING)
148
00:08:57,600 --> 00:08:59,520
(I'm off to hear
some pilgrim chanting.)
149
00:09:01,320 --> 00:09:04,560
This extraordinary temple
provides protection against
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00:09:04,560 --> 00:09:07,040
those difficult years
that we all go through.
151
00:09:08,240 --> 00:09:12,720
Here, the age of 33 is regarded as
being particularly unlucky for women,
152
00:09:12,720 --> 00:09:15,320
hence the 33 steps.
153
00:09:15,320 --> 00:09:17,520
You're supposed to put a coin
on every step,
154
00:09:17,520 --> 00:09:21,160
but, I mean, the truth is that
I'm a little bit more than 33.
155
00:09:34,520 --> 00:09:36,480
(MONKS CHANTING)
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00:09:46,640 --> 00:09:49,720
The monks perform these chants,
or sutras, every morning...
157
00:09:50,880 --> 00:09:53,400
..while the chief monk
builds a consecrated fire
158
00:09:53,400 --> 00:09:55,880
that's believed to have
a powerful cleansing effect.
159
00:09:59,360 --> 00:10:01,600
(CHIMES)
160
00:10:01,600 --> 00:10:03,680
(DRUMS BEATING)
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00:10:06,440 --> 00:10:07,680
I'm delighted to learn
162
00:10:07,680 --> 00:10:10,720
that according to the Shingon
doctrine that they practise here,
163
00:10:10,720 --> 00:10:14,200
enlightenment is not
some distant, unattainable concept,
164
00:10:14,200 --> 00:10:18,040
but something achievable
in life today. It gives us all hope.
165
00:10:20,840 --> 00:10:23,480
That was really lovely,
lovely ceremony.
166
00:10:23,480 --> 00:10:25,520
I mean, apart from the chanting,
and the...
167
00:10:26,800 --> 00:10:30,400
..the booming of the great gong
and the drum,
168
00:10:30,400 --> 00:10:32,920
the drumming which
goes right through your heart,
169
00:10:32,920 --> 00:10:35,800
and just while we were in there,
the sun's come up...
170
00:10:38,440 --> 00:10:40,560
..and it's going to be
another perfect day.
171
00:10:43,280 --> 00:10:46,320
Fujukoyuko is the 4th generation
of his family
172
00:10:46,320 --> 00:10:51,360
to be a monk here at Yakuoji Temple,
and I asked him to explain
173
00:10:51,360 --> 00:10:54,440
the significance
of the age of 33 for women,
174
00:10:54,440 --> 00:10:57,320
and why it's regarded
as being especially problematic.
175
00:10:59,240 --> 00:11:01,200
(SPEAKING JAPANESE)
176
00:11:06,400 --> 00:11:08,520
I'm very old now, and I feel fine.
177
00:11:21,960 --> 00:11:23,920
This is excellent. (BOTH LAUGH)
178
00:11:25,760 --> 00:11:28,440
I've started again.
This is very good.
179
00:11:28,440 --> 00:11:33,200
Fantastic. Proof that I have,
in fact, been rejuvenated
by this pilgrimage.
180
00:11:34,760 --> 00:11:38,960
To come to Shikoku, and to follow
a little bit of the pilgrimage trail
181
00:11:38,960 --> 00:11:41,840
has given me such a sense of peace,
182
00:11:41,840 --> 00:11:44,280
of reconnecting
with the beauty of nature.
183
00:11:44,280 --> 00:11:47,240
Secretly I wish I could stay here
for a little bit longer,
184
00:11:47,240 --> 00:11:49,120
but I've got to go.
185
00:12:00,400 --> 00:12:02,880
To get to my next island, Kyushu,
186
00:12:02,880 --> 00:12:06,120
I have to go via Honshu,
where I jump on a bullet train
187
00:12:06,120 --> 00:12:10,200
to whisk me the 400 miles
southwest to this fiery island.
188
00:12:11,360 --> 00:12:14,880
I'll be flirting with volcanoes,
and messing about in big boats,
189
00:12:14,880 --> 00:12:17,640
and speaking to humanoids.
190
00:12:17,640 --> 00:12:19,640
(INDISTINCT ROBOT SPEECH)
191
00:12:25,340 --> 00:12:27,540
Thank you. Taxi?
192
00:12:27,540 --> 00:12:30,740
On my Japanese adventure,
I've reached the island of Kyushu.
193
00:12:31,900 --> 00:12:36,100
It has great cities, busy harbours,
and active volcanoes to contend with.
194
00:12:37,900 --> 00:12:40,620
I've also been recommended
a very discreet little place.
195
00:12:42,180 --> 00:12:45,220
(ROBOT GREETS IN JAPANESE) Oh.
196
00:12:47,540 --> 00:12:49,780
Hello, I'm Joanna Lumley.
I've booked a room-
197
00:12:49,780 --> 00:12:52,180
(AUTOMATED VOICE)
Welcome to Henn-na Hotel. Yes.
198
00:12:52,180 --> 00:12:54,700
I will confirm your check-in
information. Thank you.
199
00:12:54,700 --> 00:12:59,140
Please proceed to your right
to complete the check-in process.
All right. Here we are.
200
00:12:59,140 --> 00:13:01,540
Currently confirming your invoice.
Thank you.
201
00:13:01,540 --> 00:13:05,500
Currently confirming your invoice.
Yes, I heard you, I heard you.
Thanks, darling.
202
00:13:05,500 --> 00:13:09,740
Lovely. Please...
ROBOT 2: ..your receipt...
What? You're both talking over...
203
00:13:09,740 --> 00:13:12,340
Please enjoy your stay.
I will. Thank you so much.
204
00:13:12,340 --> 00:13:16,420
(SIGHS) Hello? Porter?
205
00:13:16,420 --> 00:13:20,220
The Henn-na Hotel
is the world's first robot hotel.
206
00:13:20,220 --> 00:13:22,460
Robotic porter available in A-wing.
207
00:13:23,500 --> 00:13:27,100
It's run by robots to accommodate
the thousands of foreign tourists
208
00:13:27,100 --> 00:13:29,100
now flooding into Japan.
209
00:13:31,940 --> 00:13:34,420
Yamaguchi-san, the hotel manager,
210
00:13:34,420 --> 00:13:37,580
is on-hand to explain
a bit more of the concept.
211
00:13:37,580 --> 00:13:39,580
(SPEAKING JAPANESE)
212
00:13:53,380 --> 00:13:57,180
Robotic porter. 'Please put
your suitcase/baggage on the robot,
213
00:13:57,180 --> 00:13:59,260
and put the chain around it.'
There we are.
214
00:14:00,740 --> 00:14:04,220
There we go. Let's try to get there
before the evening, shall we?
215
00:14:06,020 --> 00:14:09,860
This hotel staffed by robots
must cost a lot of money.
216
00:14:09,860 --> 00:14:11,380
How can it make a profit?
217
00:14:24,460 --> 00:14:28,060
Every room in the hotel has
its own personal robot.
218
00:14:28,060 --> 00:14:30,500
Meet my new friend Churi.
219
00:14:30,500 --> 00:14:32,660
Look at that little person.
220
00:14:32,660 --> 00:14:34,780
'Let's talk with me.'
Here it is, how to talk.
221
00:14:34,780 --> 00:14:37,220
'You...' That's me.
CHURI: May I help you?
222
00:14:37,220 --> 00:14:40,380
Yes, Churi, please
can you ask the front desk
223
00:14:40,380 --> 00:14:42,900
to bring me some coffee,
my little friend?
224
00:14:42,900 --> 00:14:46,060
May I help you?
Yes, Churi, yes.
225
00:14:46,060 --> 00:14:49,420
So, erm, Churi... I will sing.
226
00:14:49,420 --> 00:14:52,820
Oh, what...? Will you?
(SINGING IN JAPANESE)
227
00:14:55,900 --> 00:14:59,580
Oh, how lovely. (HUMMING)
228
00:15:02,340 --> 00:15:04,500
You can bring some champagne.
229
00:15:04,500 --> 00:15:07,300
You are going to sleep already.
230
00:15:07,300 --> 00:15:09,420
I would like a bottle
of champagne on ice!
231
00:15:09,420 --> 00:15:12,060
I said a half-bottle
but I now mean a full bottle.
232
00:15:12,060 --> 00:15:14,820
Churi, will you get me anything?
Some, some...
233
00:15:16,100 --> 00:15:18,620
I know you can hear me.
You're leaving again today.
234
00:15:18,620 --> 00:15:21,060
I'm not leaving again.
I haven't even arrived.
235
00:15:21,060 --> 00:15:23,700
I've had nothing to eat,
and I've had nothing to drink.
236
00:15:23,700 --> 00:15:25,460
May I help you?
237
00:15:26,540 --> 00:15:27,740
No.
238
00:15:27,740 --> 00:15:29,540
(SINGING IN JAPANESE)
239
00:15:41,980 --> 00:15:45,140
40 miles down the coast is Nagasaki,
240
00:15:45,140 --> 00:15:47,420
a city that all of us
will have heard of.
241
00:15:58,300 --> 00:16:01,020
Nagasaki has flourished
for centuries,
242
00:16:01,020 --> 00:16:03,020
its high hills sheltering the city
243
00:16:03,020 --> 00:16:05,420
and protecting
a natural deep-water harbour.
244
00:16:06,620 --> 00:16:09,660
For early Europeans,
Nagasaki was one of the few places
245
00:16:09,660 --> 00:16:12,420
the Japanese allowed trade
with the outside world.
246
00:16:13,700 --> 00:16:15,540
The port and the city flourished.
247
00:16:16,900 --> 00:16:19,860
Today, shipyards, warehouses, cranes
248
00:16:19,860 --> 00:16:22,540
and colossal cruise ships
fill the skyline.
249
00:16:24,420 --> 00:16:27,180
A fleet of muscular-looking tugs
is the life-blood
250
00:16:27,180 --> 00:16:31,820
of this busy commercial harbour,
and I've managed to wangle myself
on board one of them.
251
00:16:35,620 --> 00:16:37,900
Early the next morning,
I'm reporting for duty.
252
00:16:39,020 --> 00:16:40,700
It's not yet 6:00 in the morning,
253
00:16:40,700 --> 00:16:44,620
I'm down on the quayside,
and this is the tug I'm joining.
254
00:16:45,900 --> 00:16:48,860
The Tomozuru,
and I'm all equipped and ready.
255
00:16:48,860 --> 00:16:52,100
I've got my new...life jacket.
256
00:16:52,100 --> 00:16:54,500
It's a new way of wearing them,
round the waist,
257
00:16:54,500 --> 00:16:57,180
not over the top like this.
I think I can go on board.
258
00:17:06,300 --> 00:17:08,180
It's only when
you get out on the water
259
00:17:08,180 --> 00:17:11,140
that you can see the extent
of the ship-building industry
260
00:17:11,140 --> 00:17:13,140
that still goes on in Nagasaki.
261
00:17:14,340 --> 00:17:17,820
Dry docks, slipways -
this one belongs to Mitsubishi...
262
00:17:19,260 --> 00:17:23,020
..but our job this morning is to lead
a Chinese cruise ship into port.
263
00:17:24,780 --> 00:17:27,220
I'm honoured by Toshihiro Ide,
264
00:17:27,220 --> 00:17:30,700
the owner of the company,
who is on-hand to explain the plan.
265
00:17:30,700 --> 00:17:33,860
This is Nagasaki harbour. Yes.
266
00:17:33,860 --> 00:17:37,300
We come from this point,
and come out...
267
00:17:37,300 --> 00:17:41,660
And this is Chinese Taishan,
and we'll meet here.
268
00:17:47,100 --> 00:17:50,260
There are two ships here -
one I can see very clearly,
269
00:17:50,260 --> 00:17:52,820
which has got a red hull,
and the other...
270
00:17:54,180 --> 00:17:59,780
..huge, coming in from the northwest,
is the Chinese ship, the Taishan.
271
00:18:05,620 --> 00:18:09,020
We're leading her
the safe way into the harbour.
272
00:18:09,020 --> 00:18:11,140
It all looks so beautiful.
273
00:18:11,140 --> 00:18:13,740
I can imagine
what it must have been like...
274
00:18:13,740 --> 00:18:16,980
to be those early traders,
because in this morning light,
275
00:18:16,980 --> 00:18:20,660
you can just see the shape
of the hills, islands, rocks,
276
00:18:20,660 --> 00:18:23,060
sun banging off the water,
277
00:18:23,060 --> 00:18:26,220
sound of the wind,
and the slapping of the waves.
278
00:18:26,220 --> 00:18:28,220
Terribly exciting.
279
00:18:30,020 --> 00:18:32,340
Japan has been
in and out of recession
280
00:18:32,340 --> 00:18:34,660
since the '90s, but in recent years,
281
00:18:34,660 --> 00:18:37,980
tourism, especially
with the Chinese, is booming.
282
00:18:37,980 --> 00:18:40,580
Japan and China are not
always on the best of terms,
283
00:18:40,580 --> 00:18:42,780
so it's nice to see,
at least, a cruise ship
284
00:18:42,780 --> 00:18:44,780
we're all blowing kisses
to each other.
285
00:18:48,300 --> 00:18:51,020
You can just see now
how our little tug the Tomozuru
286
00:18:51,020 --> 00:18:54,620
is nudging the Chinese Taishan
so that she's in the right position.
287
00:18:56,820 --> 00:18:59,980
Now that's job done,
and we're gonna go back,
288
00:18:59,980 --> 00:19:02,980
and I'm just gonna take over
the trickier bits of getting in...
289
00:19:02,980 --> 00:19:04,980
I'll just take over.
290
00:19:07,580 --> 00:19:08,900
(GIGGLES)
291
00:19:12,100 --> 00:19:15,140
It was a pleasure
to be on the Tomozuru,
292
00:19:15,140 --> 00:19:17,100
and arigatou,
and thank you so much.
293
00:19:17,100 --> 00:19:19,500
Thank you very much indeed.
Thank you very much.
294
00:19:19,500 --> 00:19:22,020
It was very good of you.
It was lovely. Thank you.
295
00:19:25,900 --> 00:19:29,780
Today, Nagasaki is a bustling
commercial city...
296
00:19:29,780 --> 00:19:34,900
but in 1945, its industrial output
was directed to the Japanese
war effort,
297
00:19:34,900 --> 00:19:38,500
fighting Allied troops in
the bitter conflict in the Pacific.
298
00:19:40,260 --> 00:19:46,020
The Americans decided to try to
end the war with nuclear weapons,
and on 6th August,
299
00:19:46,020 --> 00:19:49,900
they dropped an atomic bomb on
Hiroshima, killing 80,000 people...
300
00:19:51,100 --> 00:19:53,820
..but the Japanese leadership
still did not surrender...
301
00:19:55,100 --> 00:19:58,380
..and so three days later,
a second atomic bomb was detonated
302
00:19:58,380 --> 00:20:00,380
over the city of Nagasaki.
303
00:20:04,300 --> 00:20:07,500
Three days after that,
the Japanese surrendered,
304
00:20:07,500 --> 00:20:10,180
and World War II,
at last, came to an end...
305
00:20:13,700 --> 00:20:17,300
..but the city of Nagasaki
had paid a huge price.
306
00:20:23,020 --> 00:20:27,260
Shiroyama School, just 600m
from the epicentre,
307
00:20:27,260 --> 00:20:29,820
was one of the few buildings
left standing
308
00:20:29,820 --> 00:20:31,780
due to its concrete construction.
309
00:20:33,700 --> 00:20:37,260
Today, it's still a school
and a living monument to peace.
310
00:20:39,180 --> 00:20:42,140
A statue of an 11-year-old boy,
a pupil at the school
311
00:20:42,140 --> 00:20:44,900
who lost his life
along with his entire family,
312
00:20:44,900 --> 00:20:46,900
now stands in the playground.
313
00:20:48,260 --> 00:20:50,340
It's very touching, because...
314
00:20:50,340 --> 00:20:52,380
Hello. Good morning.
Hello. Good morning.
315
00:20:55,820 --> 00:20:59,100
..not a single child has omitted
to bow to the little statue.
316
00:20:59,100 --> 00:21:02,140
This bowing, it isn't something
that happens on special days.
317
00:21:02,140 --> 00:21:04,940
Beginning of every single school day,
round they come...
318
00:21:06,340 --> 00:21:08,300
..and just pay their respects
to peace.
319
00:21:11,860 --> 00:21:13,780
Who is the statue of?
320
00:21:13,780 --> 00:21:15,740
(SPEAKING JAPANESE)
321
00:21:25,660 --> 00:21:28,260
Oh. Oh. Thank you.
322
00:21:32,580 --> 00:21:34,780
Bye. (SPEAKING JAPANESE)
323
00:21:34,780 --> 00:21:39,220
Oh, brooms, bring the other broom.
This broom's not working any more.
324
00:21:39,220 --> 00:21:41,660
I love it. They're all concentrating
on the fact
325
00:21:41,660 --> 00:21:44,420
this is the souls of the departed,
who were killed,
326
00:21:44,420 --> 00:21:46,580
and there seems to be
no, sort of, acrimony.
327
00:21:46,580 --> 00:21:50,180
It's just very sweet, and peaceful,
and respectful, but not sombre.
328
00:21:53,780 --> 00:21:57,140
A section of the original school
has been made into a museum
329
00:21:57,140 --> 00:22:00,220
commemorating that dreadful day
in August 1945.
330
00:22:02,660 --> 00:22:06,860
Matsuyoshi Ikira was a pupil
of the school when the bomb dropped.
331
00:22:06,860 --> 00:22:10,020
Today he curates the museum.
332
00:22:10,020 --> 00:22:11,180
I'm Joanna.
333
00:22:12,340 --> 00:22:15,380
And is this the school here?
(SPEAKING JAPANESE)
334
00:22:16,660 --> 00:22:20,980
This tower is
absolutely destroyed, yeah. Phew.
335
00:22:20,980 --> 00:22:25,420
Well, this was before it was bombed,
and then afterwards, nothing at all.
336
00:22:30,740 --> 00:22:36,420
So, will you describe to me
what happened on that morning
of August 9th?
337
00:22:36,420 --> 00:22:38,660
(SPEAKING JAPANESE)
338
00:23:37,540 --> 00:23:41,780
Matsuyoshi was less than half a mile
from the centre of the explosion.
339
00:23:41,780 --> 00:23:46,020
Incredibly, his family's half-built
shelter protected him from the blast,
340
00:23:46,020 --> 00:23:49,060
and subsequently
from the harmful radiation.
341
00:24:19,860 --> 00:24:23,700
I love the city of Nagasaki,
and it's good to see it
thriving again
342
00:24:23,700 --> 00:24:26,180
after such an appalling episode
in its history.
343
00:24:28,580 --> 00:24:32,340
I'm travelling 200 miles south
to the very tip of the island...
344
00:24:32,340 --> 00:24:34,380
The third car.
345
00:24:34,380 --> 00:24:36,300
..to the city of Kagoshima,
346
00:24:36,300 --> 00:24:39,580
which sits under a smouldering
and very active volcano.
347
00:24:55,320 --> 00:24:58,120
I'm on the Shinkansen,
or bullet train,
348
00:24:58,120 --> 00:25:02,600
and speeding southwards across Kyushu
towards the city of Kagoshima,
349
00:25:02,600 --> 00:25:05,280
which is over 300km away
350
00:25:05,280 --> 00:25:09,080
and nestled under
the active volcano of Sakurajima.
351
00:25:11,520 --> 00:25:15,000
It's taking me about 2.5 hours
to travel the distance...
352
00:25:16,280 --> 00:25:20,000
..which must mean I'm travelling
at speeds approaching...
353
00:25:20,000 --> 00:25:24,520
If 160 is...
If 8... It's 8 to 5,
354
00:25:24,520 --> 00:25:28,400
so...160 would be twice...
355
00:25:28,400 --> 00:25:30,400
Well, it's fast. Believe me.
356
00:25:32,000 --> 00:25:34,000
Due to its many active volcanoes,
357
00:25:34,000 --> 00:25:36,520
Kyushu is known
as the island of fire.
358
00:25:38,040 --> 00:25:41,160
Japan sits on the junction
of four tectonic plates,
359
00:25:41,160 --> 00:25:44,360
so the threat of natural disaster
is never far away...
360
00:25:46,440 --> 00:25:50,400
..and three days after I passed
through this region, disaster struck.
361
00:25:51,560 --> 00:25:54,200
A series of earthquakes
registering up to 6
362
00:25:54,200 --> 00:25:59,200
on Japan's seismic intensity scale
collapsed buildings, ripped up roads,
363
00:25:59,200 --> 00:26:01,960
and stopped all trains
running for days.
364
00:26:01,960 --> 00:26:04,360
Tragically, 48 people were killed.
365
00:26:08,800 --> 00:26:11,720
It's late by the time we reach
the city of Kagoshima...
366
00:26:12,840 --> 00:26:14,880
..but even in the falling light,
367
00:26:14,880 --> 00:26:19,200
I can see the ominous presence of
Sakurajima looming over the city...
368
00:26:25,320 --> 00:26:27,400
..and early the next morning,
369
00:26:27,400 --> 00:26:30,560
I'm on board a ferry
bound for Sakurajima.
370
00:26:32,200 --> 00:26:35,680
You know, it's difficult to imagine
a more precarious place to live,
371
00:26:35,680 --> 00:26:38,920
but 7,000 people choose to stay here
372
00:26:38,920 --> 00:26:41,440
under the shadow
of this growling giant.
373
00:26:45,720 --> 00:26:49,680
On the island, such is the threat
from debris thrown from the volcano
374
00:26:49,680 --> 00:26:51,760
that all school kids
must wear hard hats
375
00:26:51,760 --> 00:26:53,800
on their way to and from school.
376
00:26:57,280 --> 00:27:00,120
They must sweep up volcanic ash
from the playground...
377
00:27:01,680 --> 00:27:03,680
Piles of black volcanic dust,
378
00:27:03,680 --> 00:27:07,480
headmaster helping, and to think
they do this every single morning.
379
00:27:07,480 --> 00:27:10,120
..and they have regular
evacuation drills.
380
00:27:10,120 --> 00:27:12,200
(MAN SPEAKING IN JAPANESE OVER PA)
381
00:27:12,200 --> 00:27:14,240
JOANNA: Let's go, let's go, let's go!
382
00:27:14,240 --> 00:27:17,440
Yeah, yeah, yeah, run, run,
run, baby. Come on, let's go.
383
00:27:17,440 --> 00:27:19,200
This is a volcano drill.
384
00:27:24,680 --> 00:27:26,680
So, why would anybody
in their right mind
385
00:27:26,680 --> 00:27:30,000
want to live so close to
this smouldering brute of a volcano?
386
00:27:33,000 --> 00:27:34,880
The answer lies under your feet,
387
00:27:34,880 --> 00:27:39,200
in the incredible fertile soils
thrown out from Sakurajima.
388
00:27:41,120 --> 00:27:44,640
Just get a bit of a clue
of what I'm gonna find up here.
389
00:27:44,640 --> 00:27:47,960
Sakurajima is famous
for its super-sized radishes.
390
00:27:49,720 --> 00:27:52,320
The current world record radish
was grown here,
391
00:27:52,320 --> 00:27:56,640
and weighed in at over
a back-breaking 31 kilos.
392
00:27:58,000 --> 00:28:02,280
Toshikiyo Murayama is the third
generation to farm radishes here.
393
00:28:04,080 --> 00:28:05,640
This is fantastic.
394
00:28:05,640 --> 00:28:08,240
Look at that. Wow.
395
00:28:10,280 --> 00:28:13,560
Why do these radishes
grow so huge just here?
396
00:28:14,120 --> 00:28:15,720
(SPEAKING JAPANESE)
397
00:28:22,400 --> 00:28:24,720
Rains down pumice stones, yeah.
398
00:28:24,720 --> 00:28:28,160
The pumice stone in the soil
traps air and water,
399
00:28:28,160 --> 00:28:30,800
which promotes
really good root development,
400
00:28:30,800 --> 00:28:32,920
and makes for some gigantic radishes.
401
00:28:34,400 --> 00:28:36,080
This one?
402
00:28:36,080 --> 00:28:39,440
Murayama-san, how long
have you been farming here?
403
00:28:43,920 --> 00:28:45,240
Yeah, OK.
404
00:28:55,240 --> 00:28:57,680
(Not as easy as it looks.)
405
00:28:57,680 --> 00:28:59,840
OK, OK. OK, OK?
406
00:28:59,840 --> 00:29:02,680
Not brilliant, OK,
but, sort of, not bad.
407
00:29:02,680 --> 00:29:05,760
(GRUNTS) Oh.
Oh, that's a beauty.
408
00:29:07,200 --> 00:29:09,160
(STRAINING)
409
00:29:11,720 --> 00:29:13,120
That's more than...
410
00:29:13,120 --> 00:29:17,040
That's up to there, but I can't
hold it much higher than that.
411
00:29:17,040 --> 00:29:19,960
That's the beauty shot.
That's all I can do. Sorry.
412
00:29:22,840 --> 00:29:25,800
This is hard work,
harvesting radishes.
413
00:29:25,800 --> 00:29:27,720
Murayama-san, do you have a son?
414
00:29:30,000 --> 00:29:31,920
Will he take over farming from you?
415
00:29:35,200 --> 00:29:36,560
Yeah.
416
00:29:40,640 --> 00:29:42,240
Yeah, let's do it.
417
00:29:44,600 --> 00:29:47,520
Look at this dish of food.
Could anything look lovelier?
418
00:29:47,520 --> 00:29:50,040
It's got radish flowers on the top...
419
00:29:50,040 --> 00:29:52,320
shredded radish
or something inside.
420
00:29:53,520 --> 00:29:55,440
That's gorgeous.
421
00:29:55,440 --> 00:29:59,360
The offer of a radish lunch
did make me a little apprehensive,
422
00:29:59,360 --> 00:30:02,640
but I was completely blown away
by what was put in front of me.
423
00:30:02,640 --> 00:30:05,640
(GASPS) Look at this.
424
00:30:05,640 --> 00:30:09,040
That's a picture. Could you ever
see anything lovelier than that?
425
00:30:09,040 --> 00:30:13,120
I mean, look at this,
these are shreds of radish
which look like spaghetti.
426
00:30:13,120 --> 00:30:15,400
Admit it - you want to eat that.
427
00:30:15,400 --> 00:30:17,080
Well, I do, obviously.
428
00:30:19,840 --> 00:30:22,880
Given its volatile nature,
there are teams of scientists
429
00:30:22,880 --> 00:30:25,360
who are constantly
monitoring Sakurajima.
430
00:30:26,920 --> 00:30:31,800
I'm joining Professor Keigo Yamamoto
on a flight right over the volcano.
431
00:30:36,200 --> 00:30:40,240
Yamamoto-san,
when was the last big eruption?
432
00:30:40,240 --> 00:30:42,000
Oh, last night.
433
00:30:42,000 --> 00:30:44,760
Last night? I see.
Every day we have.
434
00:30:44,760 --> 00:30:47,840
You have had eruptions
every week, every day. My gosh.
435
00:30:51,000 --> 00:30:53,440
Oh, look, we're coming
round to the top of it now.
436
00:30:53,440 --> 00:30:55,160
You can see the crater right there.
437
00:30:56,840 --> 00:30:58,720
I can see now where
the smoke's coming...
438
00:30:58,720 --> 00:31:01,080
Yes, another ridge inside the crater.
439
00:31:02,920 --> 00:31:05,200
I can smell sulphur, too.
440
00:31:05,200 --> 00:31:07,560
It's all apocalyptic,
it's absolutely fantastic.
441
00:31:08,680 --> 00:31:12,200
Look at that.
Oh, that's extraordinary.
442
00:31:14,520 --> 00:31:16,320
Just gorgeous.
443
00:31:17,440 --> 00:31:19,920
Smoke coming out of
the fissures all around it,
444
00:31:19,920 --> 00:31:23,600
and the sharp, sharp edge
from where it had blown its top.
445
00:31:24,880 --> 00:31:27,720
It feels as if we're back
at the beginning of the world.
446
00:31:27,720 --> 00:31:29,720
This is how the world was formed.
447
00:31:31,000 --> 00:31:36,320
Yamamoto-san, thank you so much.
It's beautiful, isn't it?
448
00:31:46,080 --> 00:31:49,560
It's "sayonara" to
the volatile, fiery island of Kyushu,
449
00:31:49,560 --> 00:31:54,800
and saying "konichiwa" to the long
archipelago of the Ryukyu Islands
450
00:31:54,800 --> 00:31:58,840
that stretch 700 miles south,
nearly all the way to Taiwan.
451
00:32:02,200 --> 00:32:05,040
The people of these islands
are ethnically different
452
00:32:05,040 --> 00:32:10,400
to the mainland people of Japan,
and maintained their independence
up until 1879.
453
00:32:11,720 --> 00:32:14,040
My first stop
is the island of Okinawa.
454
00:32:15,200 --> 00:32:17,960
I don't know why, but somehow
I imagined that Okinawa
455
00:32:17,960 --> 00:32:20,240
would be a tiny tropical paradise...
456
00:32:22,160 --> 00:32:24,160
..but it's mostly a city landscape.
457
00:32:24,160 --> 00:32:27,800
It's been colonised by the Japanese
since the mid-19th century...
458
00:32:30,720 --> 00:32:32,920
..by the Americans
since the end of the war,
459
00:32:32,920 --> 00:32:36,920
but Okinawa has an ancient art
all of its own which started here,
460
00:32:36,920 --> 00:32:40,480
which has gone on to conquer
almost every country in the world.
461
00:32:51,640 --> 00:32:54,920
Karate was invented
right here in Okinawa.
462
00:32:54,920 --> 00:32:58,840
It derives from the indigenous
martial arts of the Ryukyu Islands,
463
00:32:58,840 --> 00:33:01,720
and it's called "karate",
meaning "open hand".
464
00:33:01,720 --> 00:33:03,080
(YELLS)
465
00:33:04,640 --> 00:33:06,560
It spread to the Japanese mainland
466
00:33:06,560 --> 00:33:09,520
and the rest of the world
in the early 20th century.
467
00:33:14,800 --> 00:33:16,320
(SPEAKS JAPANESE)
468
00:33:17,640 --> 00:33:22,040
Higaonna-sensei is 77 years old
and a karate legend.
469
00:33:23,720 --> 00:33:25,080
(SPEAKS JAPANESE)
470
00:33:27,080 --> 00:33:29,160
He's black belt 10th dan,
471
00:33:29,160 --> 00:33:32,080
and was once considered
the most dangerous man in Okinawa.
472
00:33:33,320 --> 00:33:37,720
If I was beginning
today to learn karate,
473
00:33:37,720 --> 00:33:39,960
what was the first thing I would do?
474
00:33:43,840 --> 00:33:46,280
No, this strong, but very slow.
475
00:33:47,440 --> 00:33:52,000
So, so, yes, some pull back.
Then that sort of way?
476
00:33:52,000 --> 00:33:53,720
Right hand, left hand together.
477
00:33:54,920 --> 00:33:59,840
Yes, so, so. Is that better?
Very good. Very good.
478
00:33:59,840 --> 00:34:03,560
I can remember as Purdey,
in the New Avengers, doing that,
479
00:34:03,560 --> 00:34:05,240
and also going past somebody,
480
00:34:05,240 --> 00:34:07,200
pulling their foot
and shoving them over.
481
00:34:08,480 --> 00:34:12,440
(SIGHS) Long-ago days.
Those were pretty much 40 years ago.
482
00:34:25,440 --> 00:34:27,960
The island of Okinawa
was known around the world
483
00:34:27,960 --> 00:34:30,160
for the terrible battle
that was fought here
484
00:34:30,160 --> 00:34:33,520
towards the end of
the Second World War, 70 years ago.
485
00:34:35,600 --> 00:34:38,440
The island had huge
strategic importance
486
00:34:38,440 --> 00:34:42,440
and was the first Japanese soil
that the American forces
would set foot on.
487
00:34:45,000 --> 00:34:47,480
At the Cornerstone of Peace monument,
488
00:34:47,480 --> 00:34:49,640
I met Masahide Ota,
489
00:34:49,640 --> 00:34:52,600
who, like thousands of young men
from the local population,
490
00:34:52,600 --> 00:34:54,560
was conscripted into the army,
491
00:34:54,560 --> 00:34:57,040
and made to fight against
the invading Americans.
492
00:34:59,120 --> 00:35:03,000
When the American fleet arrived,
was it here?
493
00:35:03,000 --> 00:35:07,360
American soldiers came in,
we were fighting there, you know,
494
00:35:07,360 --> 00:35:09,840
along this sea shore.
495
00:35:09,840 --> 00:35:13,480
American battleships were
all over the place, you know.
496
00:35:17,360 --> 00:35:19,960
During the 88-day battle,
he deserted
497
00:35:19,960 --> 00:35:23,360
and, with hundreds of others,
hid in caves along this shoreline.
498
00:35:25,040 --> 00:35:27,480
He saw nearly all his comrades die,
499
00:35:27,480 --> 00:35:31,000
but he overcame hunger,
thirst, and injury
500
00:35:31,000 --> 00:35:34,280
eventually to emerge
and surrender to the Americans.
501
00:35:35,880 --> 00:35:38,520
I was hiding in the cave,
502
00:35:38,520 --> 00:35:42,040
no...no food, no water...
503
00:35:43,200 --> 00:35:47,600
..always, "Today I will die,"
and "Tomorrow I will die,"
504
00:35:47,600 --> 00:35:50,960
I've been always like that,
you know.
505
00:35:52,240 --> 00:35:54,760
Even today I don't know
how many days
506
00:35:54,760 --> 00:35:59,080
I was like that, you know,
so why I could survive?
507
00:36:00,720 --> 00:36:04,920
So I said my purpose
that I had survived
508
00:36:04,920 --> 00:36:08,520
was to guarantee, never again,
509
00:36:08,520 --> 00:36:10,560
we will not have war.
510
00:36:12,560 --> 00:36:16,600
After the war, Ota-san went on to
become governor of the island
511
00:36:16,600 --> 00:36:20,280
and dedicated many years
to establishing this peace park
512
00:36:20,280 --> 00:36:23,600
to commemorate the battle
and the thousands of Japanese,
513
00:36:23,600 --> 00:36:27,440
Okinawan, and American soldiers
who died fighting here.
514
00:36:29,200 --> 00:36:32,720
More than 240,000 people
515
00:36:32,720 --> 00:36:35,280
names are engraved here.
516
00:36:37,120 --> 00:36:41,080
Ota-san, this is the most
extraordinary place you have created.
517
00:36:41,080 --> 00:36:42,280
Beautiful.
518
00:36:42,280 --> 00:36:45,520
It's very wonderful that
you came from England.
519
00:36:45,520 --> 00:36:48,640
That's so far away,
and I really appreciate.
520
00:36:54,400 --> 00:36:57,880
In the south of the island,
high above the capital Naha,
521
00:36:57,880 --> 00:37:01,040
lie the wartime Japanese
naval headquarters,
522
00:37:01,040 --> 00:37:03,040
which are dug deep into the rock.
523
00:37:05,600 --> 00:37:08,480
As the US 6th Marine Corps closed in,
524
00:37:08,480 --> 00:37:10,960
large numbers of
young Japanese sailors
525
00:37:10,960 --> 00:37:13,960
were ordered underground
to make their last stand.
526
00:37:15,600 --> 00:37:19,840
All over Okinawa, there are
hundreds of graves and shrines
527
00:37:19,840 --> 00:37:22,320
commemorating the dead
from both sides of the war...
528
00:37:23,400 --> 00:37:25,280
..but here, in what remains
529
00:37:25,280 --> 00:37:28,440
of the imperial Japanese
naval headquarters,
530
00:37:28,440 --> 00:37:31,720
thousands of young men
made the final sacrifice,
531
00:37:31,720 --> 00:37:35,920
but they chose
to commit ritual suicide
532
00:37:35,920 --> 00:37:38,960
rather than surrender
to the American forces.
533
00:37:38,960 --> 00:37:44,640
This network of tunnels,
carved from rock by hand,
534
00:37:44,640 --> 00:37:47,120
now serves as a chilling memorial
to them.
535
00:37:49,880 --> 00:37:53,280
The tunnels are as they were in 1945,
536
00:37:53,280 --> 00:37:56,240
and you still get a strong sense
of all the young men
537
00:37:56,240 --> 00:37:58,200
who fought and died here.
538
00:38:00,400 --> 00:38:02,720
It's incredibly clammy down here.
539
00:38:02,720 --> 00:38:05,120
It's got gutters with water
running down.
540
00:38:07,320 --> 00:38:11,360
It's just ghastly, it's like...
it's like walking into a...
541
00:38:11,360 --> 00:38:13,240
Well, it is,
it's walking into a tomb,
542
00:38:13,240 --> 00:38:16,520
if you think of thousands
of young men,
543
00:38:16,520 --> 00:38:19,640
thousands of young men
killing themselves down here.
544
00:38:20,880 --> 00:38:25,160
When the tunnels were opened,
there were about 2,500 bodies
down here...
545
00:38:26,320 --> 00:38:29,520
..and on the damaged walls, you can
still see the terrible evidence
546
00:38:29,520 --> 00:38:31,640
of a group suicide.
547
00:38:31,640 --> 00:38:34,440
"Wall riddled with a hand grenade
when committed suicide."
548
00:38:35,920 --> 00:38:38,080
And this was somebody
killing themselves
549
00:38:38,080 --> 00:38:40,000
and a hand grenade going off.
550
00:38:41,480 --> 00:38:43,880
It must have been
like a charnel house here.
551
00:38:45,280 --> 00:38:46,640
This goes up.
552
00:38:54,800 --> 00:38:56,280
(SOBBING)
553
00:38:58,560 --> 00:38:59,880
Oh, boys.
554
00:39:01,800 --> 00:39:03,800
I find this so...
555
00:39:05,760 --> 00:39:07,280
..so unbearable.
556
00:39:08,440 --> 00:39:12,480
I mean, war is unbearable anyway,
but to think that people...
557
00:39:12,480 --> 00:39:15,160
people felt so ashamed
558
00:39:15,160 --> 00:39:17,600
about being taken captive
that they would...
559
00:39:17,600 --> 00:39:20,520
Young ones whose lives
had hardly started.
560
00:39:28,920 --> 00:39:32,160
It's so good to see
the open air after that.
561
00:39:32,160 --> 00:39:35,400
I can't tell you how overpowering
it is down there.
562
00:39:35,400 --> 00:39:38,240
It's just dreadful, I don't know,
there's something about...
563
00:39:39,440 --> 00:39:41,880
It's, sort of, in living memory,
of course,
564
00:39:41,880 --> 00:39:45,560
there are old people now
who can remember it,
particularly here in Okinawa...
565
00:39:47,920 --> 00:39:51,480
..and it just shows you
how utterly ghastly war is.
566
00:39:55,440 --> 00:39:57,400
God, what a ghastly place.
567
00:39:59,760 --> 00:40:01,280
(SIGHS)
568
00:40:05,480 --> 00:40:07,600
Anyway, it's peaceful now.
569
00:40:30,760 --> 00:40:34,200
I'm nearing the end
of my long Japanese journey.
570
00:40:34,200 --> 00:40:37,000
We've just travelled 300 miles
571
00:40:37,000 --> 00:40:39,480
to almost the southernmost part
of Japan,
572
00:40:39,480 --> 00:40:43,040
1,500 miles south of Tokyo.
573
00:40:43,040 --> 00:40:45,600
We're going to an island
called Kohama.
574
00:40:49,680 --> 00:40:52,760
There's a lovely group
of old ladies there
575
00:40:52,760 --> 00:40:55,400
who have discovered
a different way of keeping young.
576
00:40:56,560 --> 00:40:58,320
Maybe I'll learn something.
577
00:41:02,560 --> 00:41:06,240
This remote coral island's population
is just 600,
578
00:41:06,240 --> 00:41:09,720
but 33 of them managed to pull off
a pop sensation,
579
00:41:09,720 --> 00:41:13,880
clinching a No.1 hit in
the Japanese charts of 2015
580
00:41:13,880 --> 00:41:17,200
with their catchy little number
Come On And Dance Kohama.
581
00:41:18,280 --> 00:41:21,400
Their group is called KBG84 -
582
00:41:21,400 --> 00:41:25,080
"KBG", an acronym for
Kohama Grandmother Choir,
583
00:41:25,080 --> 00:41:27,320
and "84" is their average age.
584
00:41:28,560 --> 00:41:31,480
This is a slightly different version
of the ladies who lunch,
585
00:41:31,480 --> 00:41:34,600
because here they all are, these
incredibly funky-looking people.
586
00:41:34,600 --> 00:41:38,600
They are all 80 or more,
that's the only difference.
587
00:41:38,600 --> 00:41:41,720
The ladies' pre-lunch grace
reaffirms their theory
588
00:41:41,720 --> 00:41:45,520
about how to get every last
little bit of goodness out of life.
589
00:41:45,520 --> 00:41:47,560
(ALL RECITE IN JAPANESE)
590
00:42:09,800 --> 00:42:12,320
The girls made a video
of their No.1 hit,
591
00:42:12,320 --> 00:42:15,360
and have since toured the country
to sell-out gigs...
592
00:42:16,760 --> 00:42:19,200
..and we're all revving up
for another performance.
593
00:42:21,640 --> 00:42:23,760
(ALL SINGING
COME ON AND DANCE KOHAMA)
594
00:42:54,760 --> 00:42:57,080
Everybody on this little island
got in on the act.
595
00:43:07,880 --> 00:43:11,960
I went off to meet one of the tiniest
but biggest stars of the group
596
00:43:11,960 --> 00:43:14,360
to find out about
her secret of success.
597
00:43:15,800 --> 00:43:19,080
This is the house of Tomi-san.
She's 92 years old.
598
00:43:23,720 --> 00:43:25,240
Tomi-san... Oh.
599
00:43:28,440 --> 00:43:29,880
(SPEAKING JAPANESE)
600
00:43:34,440 --> 00:43:38,600
Oh, Tomi-san. Arigatou. Thank you.
601
00:43:39,880 --> 00:43:44,520
Tomi-san, tell me, how do you keep
looking and feeling so young?
602
00:44:02,600 --> 00:44:05,840
And tell me the secret
of your energy.
603
00:44:23,200 --> 00:44:24,480
Arigatou.
604
00:44:30,640 --> 00:44:35,120
I didn't know these islands,
right at the southernmost tip
of Japan, even existed...
605
00:44:37,120 --> 00:44:40,480
..but coming all this way
and meeting people like Tomi-san
606
00:44:40,480 --> 00:44:42,800
has been inspiring,
607
00:44:42,800 --> 00:44:46,960
and if at her age I have
half her energy, I'll be delighted.
608
00:44:55,000 --> 00:44:59,400
We started this journey
almost a stone's throw from Russia,
609
00:44:59,400 --> 00:45:01,800
and we're ending it
on this beach in Kohama,
610
00:45:01,800 --> 00:45:06,920
practically within sight of Taiwan,
a journey of over 2,000 miles.
611
00:45:06,920 --> 00:45:12,080
And this has struck me.
No matter how varied
the climate or the scenery -
612
00:45:12,080 --> 00:45:16,040
the frozen, icy sea,
deep, snowy forests,
613
00:45:16,040 --> 00:45:18,480
mild evenings
under the cherry blossom,
614
00:45:18,480 --> 00:45:21,920
volcanoes, children's schools,
crowded cities...
615
00:45:23,040 --> 00:45:27,480
..the one thing that has remained
constant is the endless kindness,
616
00:45:27,480 --> 00:45:31,280
friendliness and courtesy of everyone
we've met in this fabulous country.
617
00:45:32,720 --> 00:45:37,040
When I came here, I wondered
how strange and alien it would be...
618
00:45:38,120 --> 00:45:40,040
..to our life in the western world...
619
00:45:41,200 --> 00:45:44,680
..and, you know, now
it just feels like home from home.
620
00:45:47,200 --> 00:45:49,720
Except for lavatories.
They're far better here.
621
00:45:58,120 --> 00:45:49,720
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