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JOANNA LUMLEY: This is Tokyo,
Japan's colossal capital city.
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Wow, it's endless.
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00:00:12,040 --> 00:00:15,090
It's like a perpetual Times Square
or Piccadilly Circus
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00:00:15,100 --> 00:00:17,120
just multiplied again and again.
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00:00:18,180 --> 00:00:20,070
Fabulous.
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00:00:20,080 --> 00:00:23,060
This is a place that
assaults your every sense,
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where everything feels
like an unfathomable matrix
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of discombobulation.
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I can't wait to explore it.
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So far, my adventure travelling the
length of Japan from north to south
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00:00:44,150 --> 00:00:47,150
has revealed a land
of great natural wonder...
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Isn't that beautiful?
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00:00:49,010 --> 00:00:50,010
(CHITTERS)
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Hello, monk. Cute.
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..and a rich culture
formed over thousands of years.
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Look at that!
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Now, on the main island of Honshu...
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Bam. Whoo.
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..I'll be exploring the modern and
sometimes crazy metropolis of Tokyo.
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00:01:07,040 --> 00:01:10,000
Beautiful creature.
It's just a creature.
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I'll explore
an ancient mountain walkway
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once trod by shogun and samurai...
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"Ring the bell hard against bears".
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..before seeing Kyoto in full bloom
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and exploring
the secret world of the geisha.
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You're wearing your tall shoes.
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Yes, I am as tall as you now.
(BOTH LAUGH)
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Come with me to Japan.
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Yay. (GIGGLING)
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To get a better understanding
of this megacity,
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I'm taking to the air.
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Tokyo has been the centre of power
in Japan for over 400 years.
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It has the biggest population
of any urban area on the planet,
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and from the air,
the city seems never to end.
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It is absolutely awesome up here.
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No matter where you look,
Tokyo spreads out underneath you.
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Buildings everywhere,
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38 million people living
here in this huge city.
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The most extraordinary thing is that
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practically everything you can see
was built after World War Two.
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The city was firebombed.
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There was practically
nothing left standing
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and so it pulled itself up
by its bootstraps and began to grow.
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It's astonishing.
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After the American bombing,
the single-minded dedication
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of the people that rebuilt
the city from ashes into
the world's second-biggest economy
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also created a society
with culture, security,
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excellent food
and extraordinary courtesy.
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Look at that tower!
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Despite its size,
modern-day Tokyo is now a rich city
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with barely any poverty,
a low crime rate
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and world-class transport system,
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and has been voted one of the
most liveable cities in the world.
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It's fantastic.
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Back to Earth with a bump,
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and on the street,
it's clearly apparent that
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nearly one-third of the population
of Japan lives in Tokyo.
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These facemasks are intriguing.
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00:03:39,120 --> 00:03:41,240
Almost everyone
seems to be wearing them.
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00:03:42,000 --> 00:03:45,120
Nobody's really sure if
it's to stop the wearer getting sick
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or to stop them
making someone else sick.
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00:03:47,230 --> 00:03:51,120
Or maybe it's just to
remain anonymous in this crowd.
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Or maybe it's just
to hide your emotions.
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00:03:55,120 --> 00:03:59,050
14 billion people travel
on the Tokyo Metro each year...
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..and being Japan,
it's incredibly clean and efficient.
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00:04:08,100 --> 00:04:12,060
I've come to Asakusa,
the old entertainment district.
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00:04:12,070 --> 00:04:14,060
These days
it's home to a unique street
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that supplies
the city's 80,000 restaurants.
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Although, technically,
I'm not in the catering trade,
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I'm always drawn
to useful kitchen wear.
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I always want housecoats.
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I always want to wear
things like this.
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I actually... I think I love this.
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That's gonna come home with me.
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I won't put it on now
because we're filming
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and making a programme,
but that's mine.
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This is Kappabashi Street.
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If you wanted to open a restaurant,
you'd come here,
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because you can get
all the chefs' whites here.
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You get little skillets.
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Oh, my gosh, you've got everything.
You've got whisks, tiny tin bowls.
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Oh, look, how beautiful,
a little apron with pockets.
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Here you could get all the signs,
all your restaurant signs.
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But I've stumbled upon
a fantastic little shop
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00:05:01,140 --> 00:05:05,010
that helps explain
Japan's bewildering menus.
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This is a shop that
supplies Tokyo's restaurants
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with the plastic food that
they put in their windows.
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00:05:11,090 --> 00:05:15,100
Look at this. Plates of meat.
Lobsters, fish and beer.
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You'd believe that was ice
but it's actually just plastic.
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They are so lifelike.
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00:05:22,170 --> 00:05:25,020
If you saw that in a window,
you'd almost think
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it was freshly-cooked
chicken goujon in breadcrumbs,
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lovely slice of lemon,
tomato, fresh as a daisy.
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And will last for years
sitting in your window.
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00:05:35,130 --> 00:05:36,190
Oh, and look at this...
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..a sushi clock.
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So it's...sort of shrimp past
mackerel or something like that.
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(CHUCKLING) I think
that's terribly funny.
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It's divine.
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Simply being able to
point at a plastic pizza
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rather than decipher a menu
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is one of those inventive courtesies
they do so well in this country.
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Courtesy and good manners
are big in Japan
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and are learnt from a very young age,
especially at meal times.
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(PIANO PLAYING)
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(CHILDREN SINGING)
Arigato. Thank you.
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I've been invited to spend lunchtime
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with the children
of the Fuji Kindergarten.
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(SINGING IN JAPANESE)
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(SPEAKING JAPANESE)
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(MAN SPEAKING JAPANESE)
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So, this is school lunches here.
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This one has got a very cute
little face in the rice down here.
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And this little person has got
just a darling little lunchbox.
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Before they started their lunch,
they were sitting patiently around.
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Then they sang a song, which was...
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"When they wake up, it's lunchtime."
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"We've washed our hands, we're ready
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and we're happy
and excited to eat our lunch."
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Then they thank the teachers,
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so an immense amount of courtesy
for, really, quite little people.
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00:07:05,070 --> 00:07:07,110
For Japan, this is a unique school
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that goes beyond teaching
traditional values.
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Rather than the normal focus
on discipline and conformity,
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here, free thought and movement
are actively encouraged.
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With the building's
specially-designed oval roof
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creating an endless playground.
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The brainchild of all this
is its principal Seikishi Kato.
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The children here
have got such free spirit.
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What makes this school different
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from other primary schools,
baby schools?
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(SPEAKING JAPANESE)
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In a country that was closed to
all outsiders for hundreds of years,
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Kato-san is making sure
his students have broad horizons.
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Can I sit in on your class?
Of course. Hello.
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CHILDREN: Hello.
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Speaking English
is being seen increasingly
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as an essential life skill in Japan.
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00:08:24,230 --> 00:08:27,140
What kind of animals
can you see at the zoo?
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00:08:27,150 --> 00:08:30,010
A turtle. Turtles.
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Llama! Llamas, very good.
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Do you guys have animals
at your house? No.
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Anybody have a pet? A rooster.
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You have a rooster
at your house? Yes.
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Do you have an animal at your house?
I have two cats.
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Ooh.
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Boys and girls,
do you like cats? CHILDREN: Yes.
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How old are you? CHILDREN: Six.
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You can usually tell a six-year-old,
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because that's when
their teeth come out.
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You've still got no teeth.
Can we all see teeth?
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We show our six-year-old teeth,
go like this.
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Look at you, darling,
excellent tooth work there.
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Yeah.
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00:09:06,010 --> 00:09:08,050
With progressive schools like this,
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it's positive change
at a grass-roots level.
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Bye-bye, sweetheart. Yeah.
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Bam. Whoo.
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The old ways are starting to change
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00:09:17,110 --> 00:09:19,220
throughout all spheres
of Japanese society.
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What I love about this school
is the sense of freedom it has.
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The children are all
treated as individuals,
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encouraged to be individuals.
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Courtesy, responsibility,
individuality - fabulous.
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I wish I was here now.
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Unlike the West,
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individuality has traditionally been
looked on with misgivings in Japan.
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I've even heard
a famous old expression,
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"The nail that sticks out
must be hammered down."
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But here in the wastelands
of a Tokyo suburb,
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one person is striving
to be different.
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00:10:00,170 --> 00:10:04,050
Minori is 23
and is credited with reinventing
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a centuries-old Japanese style
called Shironuri,
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00:10:08,020 --> 00:10:09,180
which means "painted in white".
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00:10:11,040 --> 00:10:12,150
(SPEAKING JAPANESE)
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00:10:14,100 --> 00:10:16,150
She may look like
a modern-day geisha,
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00:10:16,160 --> 00:10:20,130
but Minori designs and makes
all her own clothes and make-up.
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00:10:21,210 --> 00:10:24,080
She collaborates
with her photographer Teppei
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to create strange ethereal characters
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that have been
exhibited internationally
and featured in Vogue.
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I love the way
they've chosen this location
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where all her soft clothes go
with this dead and dying vegetation.
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00:10:39,050 --> 00:10:42,190
And the green in her scarf
picks up the green of that bridge
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and the slightly tawny-coloured hair
and that chalk-white face.
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(SPEAKING JAPANESE)
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This reminds me of modelling days,
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and no matter how cold it is,
how much the wind blows,
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you're still there, beautiful.
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She hasn't flinched all this time.
She must be frozen.
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00:11:00,060 --> 00:11:01,130
Beautiful creature.
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00:11:01,140 --> 00:11:04,160
It's just a creature
standing amongst the reeds.
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00:11:04,170 --> 00:11:05,200
Gorgeous.
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00:11:09,070 --> 00:11:11,180
Hi, Minori-san. Oh! Oh. (GIGGLES)
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My dear little one.
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Can I carry your beautiful dress?
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00:11:15,080 --> 00:11:17,200
There, I shall be
your train-bearer, Minori.
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00:11:17,210 --> 00:11:21,000
Thank you. (LAUGHS) Thank you.
198
00:11:22,170 --> 00:11:26,030
Minori-san, you have won a new fan.
199
00:11:26,040 --> 00:11:28,090
Oh! (GIGGLING)
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00:11:28,100 --> 00:11:31,070
Really? I think you're wonderful.
201
00:11:31,080 --> 00:11:34,220
You look wonderful,
really beautiful. Thank you.
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00:11:34,230 --> 00:11:37,190
How does Japan see you?
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00:11:37,200 --> 00:11:39,150
(SPEAKING JAPANESE)
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00:11:47,190 --> 00:11:49,070
In Japan, there is a saying...
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00:11:50,140 --> 00:11:54,170
..that a nail that sticks up too much
must be hammered down.
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00:11:54,180 --> 00:11:56,170
What do you think about that?
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00:11:56,180 --> 00:11:58,180
(SPEAKING JAPANESE)
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00:12:15,180 --> 00:12:16,230
(GIGGLES)
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00:12:16,240 --> 00:12:18,080
I quite agree.
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00:12:18,090 --> 00:12:20,020
Teppei-san? Yes.
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00:12:20,030 --> 00:12:22,030
Will you take a picture
of us together?
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00:12:22,040 --> 00:12:23,150
Yes. Thank you.
213
00:12:25,140 --> 00:12:27,080
In a country of conformity,
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00:12:27,090 --> 00:12:31,170
Minori is a unique individual
who's trying to break the mould.
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00:12:31,180 --> 00:12:34,080
OK, cool. Great. Beautiful.
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00:12:34,090 --> 00:12:35,240
(CAMERA SHUTTER)
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00:12:37,210 --> 00:12:42,030
But after dark, in the Akihabara
district of downtown Tokyo,
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00:12:42,040 --> 00:12:45,040
this sense of theatricality
continues.
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00:12:45,050 --> 00:12:47,200
Groups of besuited
male office workers
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00:12:47,210 --> 00:12:51,030
are joining forces
with gangs of teenage boys
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00:12:51,040 --> 00:12:54,010
to celebrate Japan's
new masked entertainers.
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00:12:56,000 --> 00:12:59,080
ANNOUNCER: This is Kamen Joshi!
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00:12:59,090 --> 00:13:01,160
(POP MUSIC PLAYING)
224
00:13:05,050 --> 00:13:07,030
(CROWD CHANTING)
225
00:13:09,130 --> 00:13:12,110
Kamen Joshi is an 18-piece girl group
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00:13:12,120 --> 00:13:16,110
that performs twice nightly
to its legion of devoted fans.
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00:13:21,050 --> 00:13:24,040
Its name translates
as "masked girls".
228
00:13:24,050 --> 00:13:25,240
(MUSIC CHANGES TO HEAVY ROCK)
229
00:13:32,100 --> 00:13:35,170
Sakura Yuki has been
in the band for two years.
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00:13:35,180 --> 00:13:37,100
Tell me about the mask. Yeah.
231
00:13:42,230 --> 00:13:44,230
Put it for me. Yeah, yeah, yeah.
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00:13:44,240 --> 00:13:46,120
Yeah! (LAUGHS)
233
00:13:46,130 --> 00:13:49,140
All the girls are what sort of age?
How old are they?
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00:13:49,150 --> 00:13:52,220
18 and 26. Up to 26? Yeah, yeah.
235
00:13:52,230 --> 00:13:55,150
And so is this your only job
236
00:13:55,160 --> 00:13:58,100
or do you study somewhere
or have jobs? Yeah, yeah.
237
00:14:00,060 --> 00:14:02,130
Oh, wow. And what do you study?
238
00:14:04,030 --> 00:14:06,020
Psychology? (CHUCKLES)
239
00:14:07,140 --> 00:14:11,000
Well, then you will give me
a glimpse into your fan base,
240
00:14:11,010 --> 00:14:12,140
the fans, the audience.
241
00:14:12,150 --> 00:14:16,050
Do some of them come after
a long day at the office?
242
00:14:16,060 --> 00:14:18,120
Some seem very young,
some a bit older.
243
00:14:19,230 --> 00:14:21,170
(SAKURA YUKI SPEAKING)
244
00:14:23,120 --> 00:14:26,240
Are they mostly men?
Yeah, yeah, mostly men, mostly men.
245
00:14:27,000 --> 00:14:29,100
(CROWD CHEERING, BAND SINGING)
246
00:14:32,230 --> 00:14:34,090
It's an incredible statistic
247
00:14:34,100 --> 00:14:38,150
that nearly a third of all
Japanese men are single today,
248
00:14:38,160 --> 00:14:42,060
and that perhaps explains the
enthusiasm of the audience tonight.
249
00:14:44,010 --> 00:14:47,000
Each fan can show
just where his loyalty lies,
250
00:14:47,010 --> 00:14:49,040
the colour of
the glow stick signifying
251
00:14:49,050 --> 00:14:50,240
which girl he likes the best.
252
00:14:51,000 --> 00:14:53,100
Yuki-san. Yes. How often do you come?
253
00:14:53,110 --> 00:14:56,030
Um...once or twice a week. Do you?
254
00:14:56,040 --> 00:15:00,000
And you know all the songs
and all the movements? Almost.
255
00:15:00,010 --> 00:15:03,120
Which is your favourite girl?
Mai, over there.
256
00:15:03,130 --> 00:15:06,140
This one holding the card?
Yeah. Mm-hm. Uh-huh.
257
00:15:06,150 --> 00:15:10,030
And so, when you have your light,
what colour do you have?
258
00:15:10,040 --> 00:15:12,020
Purple. Purple. That's her colour?
259
00:15:12,030 --> 00:15:14,050
I had a purple one tonight.
Oh, really?
260
00:15:14,060 --> 00:15:16,230
Yeah. I didn't know
it was her colour but I went...
261
00:15:16,240 --> 00:15:20,070
(HEAVY ROCK MUSIC PLAYING,
BAND MEMBER SHOUTING)
262
00:15:20,080 --> 00:15:23,110
There might be something
slightly strange about these men
263
00:15:23,120 --> 00:15:25,170
fanatically following
a group of young girls.
264
00:15:25,180 --> 00:15:26,220
(CROWD CHANTING)
265
00:15:26,230 --> 00:15:29,050
But maybe with so many single men,
266
00:15:29,060 --> 00:15:31,210
they get a sense
of belonging and camaraderie
267
00:15:31,220 --> 00:15:34,200
that their day jobs
and social lives don't provide.
268
00:15:37,050 --> 00:15:39,070
(SINGING CONTINUES)
269
00:15:54,140 --> 00:15:58,060
It's extraordinary, it's fantastic.
I've never seen anything like it.
270
00:15:58,070 --> 00:16:00,210
The audience is as skilled
and as important
271
00:16:00,220 --> 00:16:02,220
as the stars on stage.
272
00:16:02,230 --> 00:16:04,170
The 18 girls are fabulous,
273
00:16:04,180 --> 00:16:08,050
but the audience seem to know
every single song, all the gestures.
274
00:16:08,060 --> 00:16:11,070
They've got clique-y things
they do together and... Wa-wa-wa!
275
00:16:11,080 --> 00:16:13,140
It's just extraordinary,
very exciting.
276
00:16:13,150 --> 00:16:16,120
I love it and I think
it's time for more.
277
00:16:30,220 --> 00:16:32,210
It's my last night in Tokyo
278
00:16:32,220 --> 00:16:35,030
and I feel as if
I've only scraped the surface
279
00:16:35,040 --> 00:16:37,140
of this vast, dazzling metropolis.
280
00:16:38,230 --> 00:16:42,030
It's so huge,
I could live here for a year
281
00:16:42,040 --> 00:16:44,090
and it would still be
just as bewildering.
282
00:16:46,020 --> 00:16:48,150
I love this. I've spent
hours sitting at this window
283
00:16:48,160 --> 00:16:50,180
just staring down at people crossing,
284
00:16:50,190 --> 00:16:53,190
hour after hour,
just dreaming about a life in Tokyo.
285
00:16:58,150 --> 00:17:00,050
That's actually a complete lie.
286
00:17:00,060 --> 00:17:03,140
It's the first time
I've ever sat down at this window.
287
00:17:03,150 --> 00:17:06,240
You just get five minutes to sit down
on this shoot, you know...
288
00:17:08,010 --> 00:17:10,120
..and have some ginger ale.
289
00:17:25,120 --> 00:17:27,230
I've left Tokyo
and I'm travelling south now.
290
00:17:29,210 --> 00:17:33,090
I'm heading for
the legendary Mount Fuji.
291
00:17:34,140 --> 00:17:36,180
People who don't know Japan
say "Fujiyama".
292
00:17:36,190 --> 00:17:40,010
It isn't, it's "Fujisan".
It's cos I know Japan now.
293
00:17:43,100 --> 00:17:46,190
But before I get to the mountain,
I have a quick stop-off to make.
294
00:17:46,200 --> 00:17:48,230
MATSUSAKI: Konnichiwa.
Matsusaki-san.
295
00:17:48,240 --> 00:17:51,210
(SPEAKING JAPANESE) I'm Joanna.
296
00:17:51,220 --> 00:17:53,120
In my home back in England,
297
00:17:53,130 --> 00:17:57,100
I have the most beautiful
woodblock print of Mount Fuji.
298
00:17:57,110 --> 00:17:59,140
And I've always wanted
to see first-hand
299
00:17:59,150 --> 00:18:01,190
the painstaking skill it takes
300
00:18:01,200 --> 00:18:04,090
to create these traditional
Japanese works of art.
301
00:18:05,140 --> 00:18:08,110
Oh, oh, oh, look at this.
302
00:18:08,120 --> 00:18:09,240
(SPEAKING JAPANESE)
303
00:18:10,000 --> 00:18:11,070
Oh!
304
00:18:11,080 --> 00:18:14,090
79-year-old Keizaburo Matsuzaki
305
00:18:14,100 --> 00:18:17,020
is one of the last masters
of this great art form.
306
00:18:18,120 --> 00:18:20,060
(SPEAKING JAPANESE)
307
00:18:22,070 --> 00:18:23,190
(GASPS) Look, it's beautiful.
308
00:18:25,030 --> 00:18:27,010
(SPEAKING JAPANESE)
309
00:18:31,160 --> 00:18:32,190
Ah!
310
00:18:34,140 --> 00:18:36,110
This is master's work.
311
00:18:38,010 --> 00:18:40,160
Centuries before
printing machines were available,
312
00:18:40,170 --> 00:18:44,130
wood-block printing was the only way
to reproduce intricate art works.
313
00:18:44,140 --> 00:18:47,000
Using a series
of carved wooden blocks,
314
00:18:47,010 --> 00:18:49,000
one block for each colour.
315
00:18:49,010 --> 00:18:51,010
Look at that.
316
00:18:51,150 --> 00:18:54,070
The greatest artist who
worked with wood-block printing
317
00:18:54,080 --> 00:18:56,240
was the 19th-century painter Hokusai
318
00:18:57,000 --> 00:18:59,190
who was renowned
for his depictions of Mount Fuji.
319
00:19:02,200 --> 00:19:05,110
Gradually building up,
piece by piece.
320
00:19:05,120 --> 00:19:07,200
(SPEAKING JAPANESE)
321
00:19:13,090 --> 00:19:17,110
This is exactly the way... If we
were in Leonardo da Vinci's studio,
322
00:19:17,120 --> 00:19:20,110
or if we were back
in the 1500s, 1400s, even 1300s,
323
00:19:20,120 --> 00:19:22,040
this is how people were working.
324
00:19:22,050 --> 00:19:24,160
Nowadays,
we get so used to everything
325
00:19:24,170 --> 00:19:27,160
being able to be aligned by computer.
326
00:19:27,170 --> 00:19:32,100
This is the real skill. This is why
a handmade wood-block print
327
00:19:32,110 --> 00:19:35,130
is worth so much more
than just perfection things,
328
00:19:35,140 --> 00:19:37,140
smack down, smack down.
329
00:19:37,150 --> 00:19:39,040
Absolutely gorgeous.
330
00:19:43,010 --> 00:19:45,120
(GASPS)
331
00:19:45,130 --> 00:19:47,090
Look at that,
that's the finished one.
332
00:19:48,140 --> 00:19:51,200
Isn't that beautiful?
To see it from just an outline,
333
00:19:51,210 --> 00:19:56,020
suddenly to this gorgeous picture
with depth and warmth and...
334
00:19:56,030 --> 00:19:58,120
It's a privilege
to watch a master at work.
335
00:19:58,130 --> 00:20:00,110
(LAUGHS)
336
00:20:02,050 --> 00:20:03,140
Arigato.
337
00:20:03,150 --> 00:20:06,120
(SPEAKING JAPANESE)
338
00:20:10,170 --> 00:20:13,190
A couple of hours later,
I'm approaching the real thing,
339
00:20:13,200 --> 00:20:15,230
the majestic Mount Fuji,
340
00:20:15,240 --> 00:20:18,140
and I'm positively
giddy with anticipation.
341
00:20:20,020 --> 00:20:23,130
Mount Fuji in all her splendour.
Blue skies, white slopes.
342
00:20:24,180 --> 00:20:27,080
In fact, today, of course,
it's not quite like that,
343
00:20:27,090 --> 00:20:29,150
but it gives us a tantalising glimpse
344
00:20:29,160 --> 00:20:32,100
of what she looks like
in different weather conditions.
345
00:20:34,120 --> 00:20:37,200
I think you can see that we've
got the slope of the mountain here.
346
00:20:39,240 --> 00:20:41,120
The little boat's missing.
347
00:20:43,130 --> 00:20:47,010
It's not really cold, it's
got this sort of golden feeling,
348
00:20:47,020 --> 00:20:49,130
the hard blue sky at the top
349
00:20:49,140 --> 00:20:52,060
and the reflection
clearly showing underneath.
350
00:20:59,040 --> 00:21:00,070
Fail.
351
00:21:02,150 --> 00:21:05,210
Undeterred, we continue
travelling south through Honshu.
352
00:21:07,140 --> 00:21:12,000
Centuries ago, the route between
Tokyo and the ancient capital Kyoto
353
00:21:12,010 --> 00:21:16,100
passed through the remote Kiso Valley
on the legendary Nakasendo Way.
354
00:21:26,140 --> 00:21:30,100
This road was like the M1
of 16th-century Japan,
355
00:21:30,110 --> 00:21:33,160
and back then, in the days
of samurai and the shogun,
356
00:21:33,170 --> 00:21:37,100
it was one of the few ways you could
travel between the two great cities.
357
00:21:39,070 --> 00:21:42,190
And this, believe it or not,
is actually part of the road.
358
00:21:42,200 --> 00:21:46,200
Terribly ancient. People have been
walking on this road for centuries.
359
00:21:49,060 --> 00:21:52,200
Unbelievable little villages
like this dotted all along the way.
360
00:21:58,230 --> 00:22:01,190
The starting point
of my walk is Tsumago,
361
00:22:01,200 --> 00:22:04,160
one of 69 postal towns
along the route.
362
00:22:07,050 --> 00:22:11,040
Apparently there's a man
in the village, Yoshinori Fujiwara,
363
00:22:11,050 --> 00:22:13,230
who has a detailed map
of the Nakasendo Way,
364
00:22:13,240 --> 00:22:17,010
so I thought I'd pop in to see
what I might expect en route.
365
00:22:19,070 --> 00:22:21,090
Fujiwara-san. Hi. Hi.
366
00:22:21,100 --> 00:22:22,240
(SPEAKING JAPANESE)
367
00:22:23,000 --> 00:22:25,120
I'm Joanna. Hello. Hi, Joanna.
368
00:22:25,130 --> 00:22:27,090
Hi. Konnichiwa. How good to see you.
369
00:22:27,100 --> 00:22:30,120
Fujiwara-san's map
is not what I expected.
370
00:22:32,090 --> 00:22:34,190
(GASPS) Oh, my gosh.
Oh, my goodness.
371
00:22:35,240 --> 00:22:38,220
Wow! No!
372
00:22:41,090 --> 00:22:43,170
It's got pleats within pleats.
373
00:22:43,180 --> 00:22:46,160
This is the longest map
I've ever seen.
374
00:22:46,170 --> 00:22:50,170
Where are we? Just down here.
Oh, that's us here. Hm.
375
00:22:50,180 --> 00:22:52,090
(SPEAKING JAPANESE)
376
00:22:56,020 --> 00:22:58,160
So we must be one of these
little houses here maybe?
377
00:22:58,170 --> 00:23:00,160
Yes. Here. (GASPS) Well, well.
378
00:23:00,170 --> 00:23:04,200
Does this show the whole route
from Tokyo to Kyoto,
379
00:23:04,210 --> 00:23:06,000
or just a part of it?
380
00:23:07,120 --> 00:23:08,190
(SPEAKING JAPANESE)
381
00:23:13,160 --> 00:23:15,010
(CHUCKLING) 20 maps.
382
00:23:15,020 --> 00:23:18,100
You could put them around a room
and still you wouldn't have room.
383
00:23:18,110 --> 00:23:20,120
How extraordinary.
But it's so detailed,
384
00:23:20,130 --> 00:23:23,170
it shows the little houses,
it shows all the bends.
385
00:23:24,220 --> 00:23:26,020
It's beautiful.
386
00:23:26,180 --> 00:23:28,040
(SPEAKING JAPANESE)
387
00:23:28,050 --> 00:23:29,170
This is Magome? Yes.
388
00:23:29,180 --> 00:23:31,160
That's where I'm walking to.
389
00:23:31,170 --> 00:23:35,130
And that's only
a 20th of this whole journey,
390
00:23:35,140 --> 00:23:38,000
and that's not even
a 20th of the 20th,
391
00:23:38,010 --> 00:23:40,170
cos this is a tiny fraction
of this map.
392
00:23:40,180 --> 00:23:43,120
They were tough people in those days.
393
00:23:43,130 --> 00:23:45,240
I think I would have brought
a pony along with me,
394
00:23:46,000 --> 00:23:47,070
a pack animal of some kind.
395
00:23:51,140 --> 00:23:55,030
Before I set off, there's just
time for another stamp in my book.
396
00:23:55,040 --> 00:23:56,100
Get good ink on it.
397
00:23:59,110 --> 00:24:03,220
Oh, look, that's beautiful.
Arigato. Thank you so much.
398
00:24:09,140 --> 00:24:11,120
Signpost saying "Nakasendo".
399
00:24:13,130 --> 00:24:15,180
You get very good sweets in Japan.
400
00:24:15,190 --> 00:24:19,080
Nice to have them in your pocket
and your mouth when you're walking.
401
00:24:21,210 --> 00:24:23,150
"Naka" means "middle",
402
00:24:23,160 --> 00:24:27,070
"send" means "mountain",
"do" means "way",
403
00:24:27,080 --> 00:24:31,010
"Nakasendo" means
"the middle mountain way".
404
00:24:31,020 --> 00:24:32,240
Look at these bamboos,
they're immense.
405
00:24:34,050 --> 00:24:35,140
It's like a forest.
406
00:24:37,040 --> 00:24:39,050
My five-mile trek to Magome
407
00:24:39,060 --> 00:24:42,090
through winding,
unspoilt countryside is hilly,
408
00:24:42,100 --> 00:24:44,240
and feels remote after the busy city.
409
00:24:45,000 --> 00:24:47,220
And at all times,
I have to keep my wits about me.
410
00:24:49,030 --> 00:24:51,110
"Ring the bell hard against bears".
411
00:24:56,140 --> 00:24:58,220
Wild bears aren't a threat today,
412
00:24:58,230 --> 00:25:01,180
but in the past,
this route was fraught with danger,
413
00:25:01,190 --> 00:25:04,080
and people in high places
had to take precautions
414
00:25:04,090 --> 00:25:05,160
when travelling this road.
415
00:25:10,230 --> 00:25:17,040
In 1862, Princess Kazunomiya
needed an entourage of 25,000 people
416
00:25:17,050 --> 00:25:20,130
to ensure her safe passage
to Tokyo to marry the shogun.
417
00:25:21,180 --> 00:25:26,030
This vast train of soldiers,
servants and porters was so huge
418
00:25:26,040 --> 00:25:28,100
that it took three days to pass by.
419
00:25:29,220 --> 00:25:32,170
People with less security
often came a cropper,
420
00:25:32,180 --> 00:25:34,160
and all along the route are reminders
421
00:25:34,170 --> 00:25:38,020
of dastardly deeds
committed centuries ago.
422
00:25:38,030 --> 00:25:40,120
That's the Kirishima-Jingu shrine.
423
00:25:42,070 --> 00:25:43,240
A terrible thing happened here,
424
00:25:44,000 --> 00:25:48,050
a vassal of the local noble lord was
travelling with 30 of his servants,
425
00:25:48,060 --> 00:25:51,100
and bandits and brigands came
out of the hills and killed them.
426
00:25:53,050 --> 00:25:56,090
I wish I knew what that meant. Maybe
the horses were killed, as well.
427
00:25:56,100 --> 00:25:59,080
I wouldn't have thought so,
brigands would've used horses.
428
00:25:59,090 --> 00:26:01,050
Somebody's put fresh daffodils.
429
00:26:02,230 --> 00:26:04,190
Look at this.
430
00:26:04,200 --> 00:26:08,000
Little squirrel's been down here
and made its own offering.
431
00:26:08,010 --> 00:26:09,160
Walnut shell.
432
00:26:13,050 --> 00:26:15,170
This road is like
a journey back in time,
433
00:26:15,180 --> 00:26:17,160
and it seems that at every turn,
434
00:26:17,170 --> 00:26:20,030
there's a story of Japan's past
to be told.
435
00:26:21,080 --> 00:26:25,090
The great samurai swordsman of
the 17th century, Miyamoto Musashi,
436
00:26:25,100 --> 00:26:27,170
used to practise
his sword skills here.
437
00:26:29,030 --> 00:26:32,160
We're not going to film it,
I know, but over there...
438
00:26:32,170 --> 00:26:34,090
is the female waterfall.
439
00:26:34,100 --> 00:26:37,050
This is the male waterfall, big,
440
00:26:37,060 --> 00:26:39,130
and that's fair enough
because men are big.
441
00:26:39,140 --> 00:26:43,080
And this is the female waterfall,
very slightly smaller,
442
00:26:43,090 --> 00:26:46,120
and in many ways,
women are slightly smaller than men.
443
00:26:46,130 --> 00:26:48,210
And in many ways, very much bigger.
444
00:27:04,040 --> 00:27:07,110
I'm a few miles into my walk
along the Nakasendo Way
445
00:27:07,120 --> 00:27:11,080
and it feels like another time
and another country.
446
00:27:11,090 --> 00:27:13,110
This is so beautiful.
447
00:27:13,120 --> 00:27:16,010
In a way, it reminds me
of Switzerland or...
448
00:27:16,020 --> 00:27:19,030
I don't know, any alpine or,
in fact, any mountain villages.
449
00:27:19,040 --> 00:27:23,060
Beautiful little wooden houses
and woodpile stocked,
450
00:27:23,070 --> 00:27:27,100
everything kept neat and tidy,
swept, small vegetable patches...
451
00:27:28,120 --> 00:27:30,130
..clothes hanging out to dry.
452
00:27:30,140 --> 00:27:31,170
It's gorgeous.
453
00:27:33,110 --> 00:27:35,210
The Nakasendo Way
was really a political tool
454
00:27:35,220 --> 00:27:39,050
for the ruling shogun to maintain
the fragile peace in Japan.
455
00:27:40,020 --> 00:27:43,170
This way he could keep tabs
on the unruly feudal lords,
456
00:27:43,180 --> 00:27:47,180
who he regularly forced to trek
all the way to the capital and back.
457
00:27:47,190 --> 00:27:49,190
Checkpoints were set up
along the route
458
00:27:49,200 --> 00:27:52,020
and everybody would
have to show credentials
459
00:27:52,030 --> 00:27:54,240
and explain their reason for travel.
460
00:27:55,000 --> 00:27:57,020
Commoners weren't
allowed to go anywhere
461
00:27:57,030 --> 00:27:58,230
without a very good reason.
462
00:28:00,070 --> 00:28:02,070
A tea house.
463
00:28:02,080 --> 00:28:03,190
Tea houses like this one
464
00:28:03,200 --> 00:28:07,000
were set up to offer
weary travellers refreshments.
465
00:28:07,010 --> 00:28:10,070
Hello? Can I have tea? Yeah.
466
00:28:11,120 --> 00:28:15,110
This guy didn't ask to see my papers
or ask any probing questions...
467
00:28:17,100 --> 00:28:20,090
..but he seems happy to bring me tea.
468
00:28:20,100 --> 00:28:21,220
I can't see any price lists,
469
00:28:21,230 --> 00:28:24,200
so I think that what you do is
you just get given tea
470
00:28:24,210 --> 00:28:29,040
and put a donation in this little
donation box, bit of bamboo cut off.
471
00:28:30,120 --> 00:28:32,120
Lovely.
472
00:28:33,050 --> 00:28:35,050
What a darling house.
473
00:28:36,020 --> 00:28:40,110
Oh, look what's coming. Please.
Arigato. Thank you. What is this?
474
00:28:41,170 --> 00:28:44,010
(SPEAKING JAPANESE)
475
00:28:48,010 --> 00:28:49,160
That's wonderful. It's...
476
00:28:51,020 --> 00:28:54,200
Is it radish, do you think?
I think it is radish.
477
00:28:56,010 --> 00:28:58,070
This is wonderful. And tea. Mm!
478
00:28:58,080 --> 00:29:00,190
I sing a song. Please.
479
00:29:02,120 --> 00:29:04,050
(SINGING IN JAPANESE)
480
00:29:29,120 --> 00:29:30,160
(SPEAKING JAPANESE)
481
00:29:30,170 --> 00:29:34,020
Oh, that's wonderful. Arigato.
That's very good. Arigato.
482
00:29:34,030 --> 00:29:36,240
This is wonderful.
Gosh, how beautiful.
483
00:29:37,000 --> 00:29:39,110
We should have more singing
in tea shops, I think.
484
00:29:43,230 --> 00:29:46,180
The great danger of sitting down
in the middle of a walk
485
00:29:46,190 --> 00:29:48,170
is that you never want
to get up again.
486
00:29:51,120 --> 00:29:54,180
Just have one more of these,
cos they are so good, or two more.
487
00:29:54,190 --> 00:29:56,050
Thank you very much.
488
00:30:04,070 --> 00:30:07,040
I've loved walking through
Honshu's pristine forests...
489
00:30:08,090 --> 00:30:10,230
..but I know they've been preserved
at a cost.
490
00:30:12,090 --> 00:30:16,020
Other Asian countries
willingly sell their own rainforests
491
00:30:16,030 --> 00:30:19,050
to make disposable chopsticks
for the Japanese market.
492
00:30:23,000 --> 00:30:24,130
This is the beginning of Magome
493
00:30:24,140 --> 00:30:27,140
and it's the end
of my very short walk.
494
00:30:27,150 --> 00:30:29,190
Lovely to think of this old road.
495
00:30:29,200 --> 00:30:31,240
In the old days,
it had all kinds of things,
496
00:30:32,000 --> 00:30:34,160
bandits and horrors
and villains and splendour,
497
00:30:34,170 --> 00:30:38,020
and now it's just got happy tourists,
happy walkers like myself.
498
00:30:42,030 --> 00:30:44,040
But I can't hang around in Magome.
499
00:30:44,050 --> 00:30:47,000
Spring is in the air
and I have to press on.
500
00:30:50,060 --> 00:30:52,100
There is a very important
seasonal event
501
00:30:52,110 --> 00:30:55,000
in Japan's former capital city Kyoto.
502
00:31:02,080 --> 00:31:04,050
It may have been
the historic capital,
503
00:31:04,060 --> 00:31:07,000
but Kyoto Station
is a gleaming modern statement
504
00:31:07,010 --> 00:31:09,080
of Japan's brilliant infrastructure.
505
00:31:11,240 --> 00:31:14,060
I've arrived along with
thousands of others
506
00:31:14,070 --> 00:31:17,080
in search of
Kyoto's famous cherry blossom.
507
00:31:17,090 --> 00:31:19,180
Now all I have to do is find it.
508
00:31:19,190 --> 00:31:20,200
Wow.
509
00:31:22,070 --> 00:31:23,090
Taxi?
510
00:31:23,100 --> 00:31:24,230
Japan is bending over backwards
511
00:31:24,240 --> 00:31:28,200
to encourage foreign visitors
to come here and spend their money.
512
00:31:28,210 --> 00:31:29,230
Look.
513
00:31:32,070 --> 00:31:34,000
Foreign-friendly.
514
00:31:34,010 --> 00:31:37,120
Can you imagine that?
Taxis especially for foreigners.
515
00:31:37,130 --> 00:31:38,190
And quite a long queue.
516
00:31:40,000 --> 00:31:42,010
They're a bit busy, sorry. Busy?
517
00:31:42,020 --> 00:31:44,190
Wait...20 minutes. 20 minutes?
518
00:31:44,200 --> 00:31:46,060
20-minute wait? Yeah, sorry.
519
00:31:46,070 --> 00:31:50,170
Is this because of cherry blossom?
Yeah. Yeah.
520
00:31:53,020 --> 00:31:55,180
I'm sorry. Look. I'm sorry.
521
00:31:55,190 --> 00:31:58,060
Just by delaying,
trying to find a foreign taxi,
522
00:31:58,070 --> 00:32:00,030
I've completely ruined this.
523
00:32:00,040 --> 00:32:03,020
It's now 40 minutes
cos the queue's got a bit longer.
524
00:32:03,030 --> 00:32:05,140
I've been planning my trip
to arrive in Kyoto
525
00:32:05,150 --> 00:32:08,200
at exactly the right time
of the year to see it in full bloom,
526
00:32:08,210 --> 00:32:11,000
so 40 minutes to wait is nothing.
527
00:32:12,220 --> 00:32:16,170
So nice to meet you.
My name is Kanu.
528
00:32:16,180 --> 00:32:19,130
Kanu-san? Yes.
Kanu-san, my name is Joanna. Ah-ha.
529
00:32:22,000 --> 00:32:25,140
When did you start
being foreign-friendly?
530
00:32:25,150 --> 00:32:30,030
Foreign-friendly taxi system
is just started.
531
00:32:30,040 --> 00:32:34,050
Really? This year? It's brand-new?
Yes, brand-new. It's brilliant.
532
00:32:34,060 --> 00:32:36,240
I think it's so courteous,
so kind. Mm.
533
00:32:37,000 --> 00:32:39,170
And you learnt English here? Ah, yes.
534
00:32:39,180 --> 00:32:41,230
That's excellent. Here in Japan.
535
00:32:41,240 --> 00:32:44,120
I'm so ashamed
I don't speak Japanese.
536
00:32:44,130 --> 00:32:46,100
(CHUCKLES) Thank you.
537
00:32:46,110 --> 00:32:49,080
I feel that Kanu-san and I
are now well-acquainted enough
538
00:32:49,090 --> 00:32:51,170
for me to offer him
one of my favourite sweets.
539
00:32:51,180 --> 00:32:52,190
Kanu-san?
540
00:32:52,200 --> 00:32:55,080
Would you like a lovely sour sweet?
Ah, thank you.
541
00:32:55,090 --> 00:32:57,090
I put one out for you?
542
00:32:57,100 --> 00:32:59,150
There you are, in my fingers.
543
00:33:00,220 --> 00:33:03,050
Thank you. Thank you very much.
544
00:33:03,060 --> 00:33:04,180
Crikey, it's sour.
545
00:33:06,230 --> 00:33:08,180
(BOTH CHUCKLE)
546
00:33:08,190 --> 00:33:10,090
Very sour. Very sour.
547
00:33:11,140 --> 00:33:13,160
It's brought tears to my eyes.
548
00:33:13,170 --> 00:33:15,000
(GASPS) Oh, how pretty.
549
00:33:18,010 --> 00:33:21,090
Kyoto is famed around the world
for its cherry blossom,
550
00:33:21,100 --> 00:33:23,030
and in 2014,
551
00:33:23,040 --> 00:33:26,210
tourists visiting
the city spent £4.5 billion.
552
00:33:28,100 --> 00:33:30,170
Not only is it difficult
to get a taxi,
553
00:33:30,180 --> 00:33:33,170
but at this time of year,
hotel rooms are like gold dust.
554
00:33:35,070 --> 00:33:37,060
The arrival
of this beautiful blossom,
555
00:33:37,070 --> 00:33:39,040
or sakura as it's known,
556
00:33:39,050 --> 00:33:42,060
is hotly anticipated
throughout the whole country.
557
00:33:42,070 --> 00:33:43,230
(SPEAKING JAPANESE)
558
00:33:56,050 --> 00:34:01,040
I'm wearing cherry blossom-related
colouring today.
559
00:34:03,030 --> 00:34:05,160
I'm actually quite excited.
I mean, I am seeing it,
560
00:34:05,170 --> 00:34:08,050
but I want to see
sort of clouds of it.
561
00:34:08,060 --> 00:34:10,210
Look, you see, we're just
getting blossom along here.
562
00:34:10,220 --> 00:34:12,000
(GASPS) Look at it.
563
00:34:13,070 --> 00:34:18,020
Here in Japan, the seasons are
terribly important and celebrated.
564
00:34:18,030 --> 00:34:22,240
And particularly spring coming with
the arrival of the cherry blossom,
565
00:34:23,000 --> 00:34:25,120
people going out
to have picnics under the trees
566
00:34:25,130 --> 00:34:28,170
just to stare at the beauty,
it's something I so believe in.
567
00:34:28,180 --> 00:34:33,230
I love the idea that a whole country
can be gripped by blossom fever.
568
00:34:36,080 --> 00:34:38,130
The Japanese make
a big thing of going out
569
00:34:38,140 --> 00:34:42,000
and taking in the natural beauty
of the new cherry blossom.
570
00:34:42,010 --> 00:34:44,030
They call it "hanami".
571
00:34:44,040 --> 00:34:46,110
Oh, it's just beautiful.
572
00:34:46,120 --> 00:34:48,210
I've been dropped off
at the Philosopher's Walk
573
00:34:48,220 --> 00:34:52,020
that is a popular hanami spot,
and I can see why.
574
00:34:53,080 --> 00:34:55,060
Sorry, I have to take
a picture of this.
575
00:34:55,070 --> 00:34:59,010
I have never seen so many
cameras out everywhere.
576
00:34:59,020 --> 00:35:01,080
People are just taking
pictures, pictures.
577
00:35:01,090 --> 00:35:04,180
People are taking pictures of people
taking pictures of pictures.
578
00:35:04,190 --> 00:35:05,200
Fabulous.
579
00:35:10,160 --> 00:35:12,070
It doesn't have much scent
580
00:35:12,080 --> 00:35:14,090
but there's something
quite intoxicating
581
00:35:14,100 --> 00:35:16,110
about seeing cherry blossom
on this scale.
582
00:35:18,140 --> 00:35:21,180
Will you come and be in my picture
and so I can take a selfie?
583
00:35:22,240 --> 00:35:25,220
And we put... In closer.
I think it's... iPhone.
584
00:35:25,230 --> 00:35:29,180
Oh, I see, yes, hang on a second.
Come on, where are we?
585
00:35:29,190 --> 00:35:31,240
I don't want that,
I want to go back to here.
586
00:35:32,000 --> 00:35:33,150
Let's go back to that.
587
00:35:34,200 --> 00:35:36,000
(LAUGHING)
588
00:35:36,010 --> 00:35:38,200
Put your heads in, baby,
nice and close, nice and close.
589
00:35:40,000 --> 00:35:41,180
Yay. (GIGGLING)
590
00:35:41,190 --> 00:35:44,090
Thank you so much.
Thank you very much indeed.
591
00:35:44,100 --> 00:35:47,060
All right. Arigato.
Thank you. Bye-bye.
592
00:35:47,070 --> 00:35:50,070
It's so adorable.
I wish we dressed beautifully still.
593
00:35:50,080 --> 00:35:52,100
I wish we put flowers in our hair...
594
00:35:52,110 --> 00:35:54,200
I feel massively underdressed now,
595
00:35:54,210 --> 00:35:56,060
dejected even.
596
00:36:00,170 --> 00:36:04,240
This is called the Philosopher's
Walk, and me, obviously,
597
00:36:05,000 --> 00:36:08,130
philosopher kind of thinking,
kind of person that I am,
598
00:36:08,140 --> 00:36:10,230
the kind of person who'd
have a jewelled teddy bear
599
00:36:10,240 --> 00:36:12,040
hanging off their iPhone.
600
00:36:13,150 --> 00:36:15,100
I think it's just one more selfie.
601
00:36:17,120 --> 00:36:19,060
Philosopher's face, not looking.
602
00:36:19,070 --> 00:36:22,020
Thinking of something.
(CAMERA SHUTTER SOUND)
603
00:36:22,030 --> 00:36:23,240
Yeah, thank you. Very nice.
604
00:36:25,090 --> 00:36:28,130
Up here for thinking,
down there for dancing.
605
00:36:39,180 --> 00:36:43,050
Kyoto was Japan's capital
for over 1,000 years
606
00:36:43,060 --> 00:36:46,070
and it still has
a proud and refined air.
607
00:36:46,080 --> 00:36:50,150
Its thousands of Buddhist temples,
Shinto shrines and ornate gardens
608
00:36:50,160 --> 00:36:53,140
were spared the blanket-bombing
of World War II,
609
00:36:53,150 --> 00:36:57,090
and now attract a throng of tourists,
especially at this time of year.
610
00:36:59,150 --> 00:37:03,040
But there's another part of Kyoto
that comes alive at night.
611
00:37:06,070 --> 00:37:10,100
Gion district is synonymous
with that most Japanese tradition,
612
00:37:10,110 --> 00:37:13,150
the geisha, or as they're
known here, the geiko.
613
00:37:16,020 --> 00:37:18,080
It's got a slightly
different edge to it here.
614
00:37:18,090 --> 00:37:21,190
There are practically no tourists,
even though it's full of...
615
00:37:21,200 --> 00:37:24,060
bars and restaurants.
616
00:37:24,070 --> 00:37:25,150
There's a reason for that,
617
00:37:25,160 --> 00:37:29,030
because these bars and restaurants
are geisha bars and restaurants.
618
00:37:29,040 --> 00:37:31,200
You can't just walk in,
you've got to be invited in.
619
00:37:35,050 --> 00:37:37,110
It's a world absolutely
shrouded in secrecy,
620
00:37:37,120 --> 00:37:40,100
which famously shuns
the press and media and...
621
00:37:41,170 --> 00:37:44,080
To tell you the truth,
I'm excited and a bit nervous
622
00:37:44,090 --> 00:37:47,030
because I'm going to
meet a trainee geiko,
623
00:37:47,040 --> 00:37:49,030
they're known as maiko.
624
00:37:49,040 --> 00:37:53,100
And her name is Tomit Suyu
and she's 18 years old.
625
00:38:00,200 --> 00:38:04,160
Tomit Suyu has invited me
to a traditional tea ceremony,
626
00:38:04,170 --> 00:38:07,160
one of the many rituals
she's trained in.
627
00:38:07,170 --> 00:38:11,050
She's three years into
a rigorous five-year programme,
628
00:38:11,060 --> 00:38:14,000
preparing to become
a fully-fledged geiko.
629
00:38:16,200 --> 00:38:18,090
The beauty of this procedure,
630
00:38:18,100 --> 00:38:22,050
everything done absolutely precisely
with no speed, no flurry.
631
00:38:23,110 --> 00:38:25,240
The folding of the napkin
with one hand,
632
00:38:26,000 --> 00:38:29,100
the very careful cleaning,
the precise placing of things,
633
00:38:29,110 --> 00:38:31,110
I'm so thrilled to have seen it.
634
00:38:33,160 --> 00:38:35,050
Contrary to popular belief,
635
00:38:35,060 --> 00:38:38,170
geishas are not some form
of "ladies of the night".
636
00:38:38,180 --> 00:38:43,100
The literal translation of geisha
means "art person".
637
00:38:43,110 --> 00:38:45,210
In the 18th century,
they entertained clients
638
00:38:45,220 --> 00:38:50,060
in the pleasure quarters of cities
with music, dancing and singing,
639
00:38:50,070 --> 00:38:54,080
and were distinctly separate
from the prostitutes and courtesans.
640
00:38:54,090 --> 00:38:58,170
In modern-day Japan,
they have a certain celebrity status.
641
00:38:58,180 --> 00:39:02,020
Mainly, they are hired
by rich businessmen as party hosts,
642
00:39:02,030 --> 00:39:05,170
or to entertain important guests
in private tea-house parties.
643
00:39:08,150 --> 00:39:10,100
It's delicious tea.
644
00:39:10,110 --> 00:39:13,060
Green tea,
as green as pea soup, really.
645
00:39:15,040 --> 00:39:17,230
Tomit Suyu does not speak
when she does this ceremony
646
00:39:17,240 --> 00:39:19,100
so I don't speak to her.
647
00:39:19,110 --> 00:39:21,150
But I think she knows
how grateful I am
648
00:39:21,160 --> 00:39:24,100
to be drinking this beautiful tea.
649
00:39:24,110 --> 00:39:25,210
Tomit Suyu-san...
650
00:39:25,220 --> 00:39:27,160
(SPEAKS JAPANESE)
651
00:39:28,210 --> 00:39:31,020
Thank you for such
lovely tea you made me.
652
00:39:31,030 --> 00:39:32,240
Thank you for coming.
It's beautiful.
653
00:39:33,000 --> 00:39:35,130
What attracted you
to the life of geiko?
654
00:39:37,080 --> 00:39:39,050
I was born in Kyoto... Yes.
655
00:39:39,060 --> 00:39:42,210
..and some of my family members
were working for kimono...
656
00:39:42,220 --> 00:39:44,230
kimono industry. Yeah.
657
00:39:44,240 --> 00:39:49,010
So I liked wearing kimonos
since when I was a kid
658
00:39:49,020 --> 00:39:54,170
and I also loved watching
Japanese historical movies
659
00:39:54,180 --> 00:39:58,070
and I thought maybe I could do
something related to the tradition.
660
00:39:58,080 --> 00:40:00,100
And what did your parents
think about that?
661
00:40:00,110 --> 00:40:06,100
My parents were surprised... Yes.
..and they didn't believe me
662
00:40:06,110 --> 00:40:09,200
because they know how hard
to become maiko-san is.
663
00:40:09,210 --> 00:40:12,050
You look so beautiful. Thank you.
664
00:40:12,060 --> 00:40:15,110
Do you do your own make-up?
I do. You do.
665
00:40:15,120 --> 00:40:18,220
And the back, I paint by myself.
666
00:40:18,230 --> 00:40:21,020
Can you see that, too?
Oh, look. Look, look.
667
00:40:22,110 --> 00:40:26,150
Geikos only use black, red
and very thick white make-up.
668
00:40:26,160 --> 00:40:30,170
This was originally done so their
faces would glow in the candlelight.
669
00:40:30,180 --> 00:40:33,230
The nape of the neck, which is
considered especially attractive,
670
00:40:33,240 --> 00:40:35,220
is seductively left bare.
671
00:40:35,230 --> 00:40:37,160
You can do your hair?
672
00:40:37,170 --> 00:40:40,230
I go to a special hairdresser
once a week.
673
00:40:40,240 --> 00:40:44,020
It takes one hour
to make the hairstyle,
674
00:40:44,030 --> 00:40:48,040
but I have to sleep
with this hair done like this.
675
00:40:48,050 --> 00:40:50,050
How do you sleep on your back,
very neat?
676
00:40:50,060 --> 00:40:52,000
On my side neck. Yes.
677
00:40:52,010 --> 00:40:57,000
But I have a very special pillow
made out of wood. Yes.
678
00:40:57,010 --> 00:40:59,050
It's a proper discipline,
this, isn't it?
679
00:40:59,060 --> 00:41:01,180
It's hard work to do
what you do. Yes.
680
00:41:01,190 --> 00:41:04,210
Tell me what your week is like.
What is a day like?
681
00:41:04,220 --> 00:41:06,210
Normally, in the morning,
682
00:41:06,220 --> 00:41:11,170
I have to spend about one hour
fixing my hair
683
00:41:11,180 --> 00:41:16,150
from the pillow, the wooden pillow,
and go to lessons.
684
00:41:16,160 --> 00:41:18,000
What are the lessons?
685
00:41:18,010 --> 00:41:20,120
Uh...the tea ceremony... Yes.
686
00:41:20,130 --> 00:41:25,170
..dancing... Dancing?
..flute, drumming, singing.
687
00:41:25,180 --> 00:41:30,030
And then, maybe, two or three
o'clock, I start getting ready.
688
00:41:30,040 --> 00:41:33,180
It takes maybe two hours
fixing my hair again,
689
00:41:33,190 --> 00:41:38,110
put those hair accessories on,
put my make-up,
690
00:41:38,120 --> 00:41:41,180
and then start working
from six o'clock at night.
691
00:41:41,190 --> 00:41:43,240
That's when customers
arrive here. Yes.
692
00:41:44,000 --> 00:41:46,070
What is it that people come for?
693
00:41:47,230 --> 00:41:50,130
It depends on the customers,
694
00:41:50,140 --> 00:41:55,070
but sometimes
they want us to accompany...
695
00:41:55,080 --> 00:42:00,220
to go to theatre
or um...dinner. (GIGGLES)
696
00:42:00,230 --> 00:42:04,000
How many maiko-san and geiko-san
are there in Kyoto?
697
00:42:04,010 --> 00:42:08,030
In Kyoto, well,
there are around 180 geiko-san.
698
00:42:08,040 --> 00:42:09,120
So not so many.
699
00:42:09,130 --> 00:42:12,090
Even girls really want
to become maiko-san...
700
00:42:13,150 --> 00:42:16,170
..unfortunately,
most of them don't...
701
00:42:16,180 --> 00:42:18,060
Don't make the grade. No.
702
00:42:18,070 --> 00:42:21,180
Last year, five girls
came to this district
703
00:42:21,190 --> 00:42:24,110
and only one could become maiko-san.
704
00:42:28,120 --> 00:42:32,000
You're very young still at 18,
and you joined when you were 15?
705
00:42:32,010 --> 00:42:33,020
Yes.
706
00:42:33,030 --> 00:42:36,220
Now, other 15-year-old girls
are listening to music
707
00:42:36,230 --> 00:42:40,170
and trying on clothes
and going out with boyfriends, maybe.
708
00:42:40,180 --> 00:42:44,200
Do you miss any of these things?
Sometimes. (GIGGLES)
709
00:42:44,210 --> 00:42:46,070
What do you miss most?
710
00:42:47,230 --> 00:42:51,180
I miss my parents and my friends,
711
00:42:51,190 --> 00:42:54,240
and also the modern technology.
712
00:42:55,000 --> 00:42:58,160
I'm not allowed to have phones
or Internet connections,
713
00:42:58,170 --> 00:43:04,020
so I can't go onto, like,
Facebook and other things.
714
00:43:04,030 --> 00:43:06,010
So, it's a solitary life,
715
00:43:06,020 --> 00:43:08,090
but you're walking
in the street with people,
716
00:43:08,100 --> 00:43:10,080
but not doing what other people do.
717
00:43:11,200 --> 00:43:15,200
No, I'm not allowed.
Do you sometimes wish you could?
718
00:43:15,210 --> 00:43:18,100
Sometimes? Sometimes. (LAUGHS)
719
00:43:21,130 --> 00:43:25,040
I'm somehow both shocked
and entranced by Tomit Suyu.
720
00:43:25,050 --> 00:43:27,030
It makes me feel sad thinking about
721
00:43:27,040 --> 00:43:30,070
the normal adolescence
she'll never have.
722
00:43:30,080 --> 00:43:33,190
But I'm also in awe
at the level of devotion she shows
723
00:43:33,200 --> 00:43:35,230
to this strange life she's chosen.
724
00:43:37,030 --> 00:43:40,140
You're wearing your tall shoes.
Yes, I am as tall as you now.
725
00:43:40,150 --> 00:43:42,170
(BOTH LAUGH)
726
00:43:42,180 --> 00:43:44,190
You walk in them beautifully,
727
00:43:44,200 --> 00:43:48,020
but are they quite hard
to walk in when you learn?
728
00:43:48,030 --> 00:43:50,060
I had to practise for...
729
00:43:51,110 --> 00:43:53,060
..over half a year.
730
00:43:53,070 --> 00:43:55,060
Half a year. (GIGGLES)
731
00:43:55,070 --> 00:43:57,220
You must be paid
for this work that you do.
732
00:43:57,230 --> 00:44:00,210
No. No? Not for five years.
733
00:44:00,220 --> 00:44:03,100
(GASPS) Not till you're geiko. No.
734
00:44:03,110 --> 00:44:07,090
Because maiko-san
is an apprenticeship. Yes.
735
00:44:07,100 --> 00:44:11,030
So we don't have to pay anything
to become maiko-san... No.
736
00:44:11,040 --> 00:44:15,130
..so everything like accommodation,
food, lesson fees, hairdresser fees,
737
00:44:15,140 --> 00:44:18,070
everything's provided
by the house. Wow.
738
00:44:18,080 --> 00:44:22,180
But I don't get paid
for five years. Gosh. (GIGGLES)
739
00:44:22,190 --> 00:44:25,090
I sometimes forget my real name.
740
00:44:25,100 --> 00:44:27,090
Your real name is Tomit Suyu? No.
741
00:44:27,100 --> 00:44:30,180
What is your real name?
I can't tell you. (GIGGLES)
742
00:44:30,190 --> 00:44:33,240
I've been calling you Tomit Suyu
thinking that was your real name.
743
00:44:34,000 --> 00:44:35,130
No. That's Maiko Tomit Suyu.
744
00:44:35,140 --> 00:44:39,130
So it's like a stage name.
Stage name, yes, exactly.
745
00:44:39,140 --> 00:44:42,190
And do you think that maybe one day
746
00:44:42,200 --> 00:44:45,200
you will come back
and be an ordinary person again?
747
00:44:47,020 --> 00:44:51,140
Maybe. Maybe get married,
maybe have children. Mm.
748
00:44:51,150 --> 00:44:54,200
Because I'm only a child.
You're only a child now.
749
00:44:57,040 --> 00:45:01,120
I hope that you have
such success as geiko-san,
750
00:45:01,130 --> 00:45:06,200
but I hope that, also,
that later on, you can escape.
751
00:45:06,210 --> 00:45:07,220
(LAUGHS)
752
00:45:09,060 --> 00:45:13,030
As Tomit Suyu leaves for another
discreet evening engagement,
753
00:45:13,040 --> 00:45:17,000
it's reassuring to learn that she's
still a normal teenager at heart.
754
00:45:18,210 --> 00:45:21,180
Have you ever been to England?
No, never.
755
00:45:22,230 --> 00:45:25,190
Would you like to come? I'd love to.
756
00:45:25,200 --> 00:45:27,220
What would you do
when you came there?
757
00:45:27,230 --> 00:45:30,060
I want to go to Harry Potter World.
758
00:45:30,070 --> 00:45:32,210
Oh, Harry Potter. (LAUGHS)
759
00:45:32,220 --> 00:45:34,180
I've met Daniel Radcliffe, you know.
760
00:45:34,190 --> 00:45:36,050
Really? Yes. (GASPS)
761
00:45:36,060 --> 00:45:38,030
(BOTH LAUGH)
762
00:45:38,040 --> 00:45:41,040
He's a charming man.
He's charming. Wow, really?
763
00:45:41,050 --> 00:45:42,160
(GIGGLING)
764
00:45:46,040 --> 00:45:48,200
Next time,
the final leg of my journey.
765
00:45:48,210 --> 00:45:51,160
I'll be uncovering the secrets
of ancient Japan.
766
00:45:51,170 --> 00:45:53,150
It's 5:30 in the morning.
767
00:45:53,160 --> 00:45:55,070
Flying over this monster.
768
00:45:55,080 --> 00:45:56,200
Whoa.
769
00:45:56,210 --> 00:45:58,220
Confronting the horrors of the war.
770
00:45:58,230 --> 00:46:00,060
I find this so...
771
00:46:02,100 --> 00:46:04,040
..so unbearable.
772
00:46:04,050 --> 00:46:07,070
And throwing a few shapes
with some lovely old ladies.
773
00:46:07,080 --> 00:46:09,200
These incredibly
funky-looking people.
774
00:46:13,060 --> 00:46:15,060
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