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We all crave good quality fresh food.
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We want to know where it comes from
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and how it's produced.
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Urban food markets,
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the bellies of our cities,
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sell fresh, seasonal produce
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brought to the market each day
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with no fancy packaging.
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What you see is what you get.
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(bright music)
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(speaking in foreign language)
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Our series explores the big bellies
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of Freiburg in Germany,
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Florence in Italy,
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the Latvian capital Riga,
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Toulouse in France
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and the Croatian capital Zagreb.
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The markets are a melting pot
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of unique regional flavors,
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a bridge between town and country.
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(bright music)
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The Croatian capital Zagreb
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straddles the political and cultural fault line
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dividing east and west Europe.
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Its great boulevards and magnificent architecture
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date from the Austrohungarian empire.
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The city goes back to ancient Roman times.
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After the collapse of the former Yugoslavia,
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Zagreb is enjoying a cultural renaissance
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spurred by Croatia's entry into the EU.
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To visit the city
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is to plunge into a rich, vibrant, restless melting pot
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of different cultures and traditions
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and there's one place you can taste it all,
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the Dolac Market.
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The market occupies a large square
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just a stone's throw from the city's
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impressive gothic cathedral.
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(speaking in foreign language)
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Madam, would you like some apples?
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For hundreds of years,
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the market has been run by women stall holders
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called kunitsa.
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There's even a bronze statue
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honoring them and their determination
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to keep Zagreb supplied
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through the most challenging times.
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The kunitsa live up to 50 kilometers from the city
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but every day they bring their homegrown
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seasonal fruit and vegetables
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to sell in the square.
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Some come from the Zagorje Hills to the north.
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Others work the fertile fields
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of the Sava River Valley to the south.
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Some still bring their produce by bus or train.
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Others come in cars or small vans.
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Once here, the kunitsa rent a stall
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just big enough for their needs.
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Even during the Balkan conflict,
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they kept the city supplied
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with whatever they could grow.
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There you are,
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thank you very much.
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Fresh fruit and vegetables
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are sold in the open air
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under hundreds of brightly colored umbrellas.
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Other produce is for sale
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in the covered market beneath their feat
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or surrounding the square.
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Tucked away in one corner
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is a small family run diner serving burek,
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a traditional Balkan street food.
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Part cafe and part restaurant,
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it's easy for visitors to miss it
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but it's usually crowded with stall holders
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and regular market customers
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who come here for their breakfast
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or mid morning break.
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(speaking in foreign language)
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We're lucky we're so busy.
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It means everything is always freshly made.
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It all gets eaten right away.
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The burek is sliced and sold straight from the oven.
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Burek is a thick flour based pastry
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sold by the slice.
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It's usually filled with lamb, beef,
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curd cheese or apples.
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A staple of Balkan cooking,
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it's an old Ottoman dish from Anatolia in Southern Turkey.
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(speaking in foreign language)
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We only use white flour.
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The machine produces a dough
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like a cross between bread and cake.
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Gjoni is the best burek maker in town.
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He's been making it every day since he was 16.
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(speaking in foreign language)
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I can make
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up to 100 balls a day.
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It's best to use pork fat and oil
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in order for burek to be good.
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You spread it over the pastry balls.
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Gjoni leaves the pastry to rest
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before stretching it into wafer thin layers
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which give it a distinctive crunchy and flaky texture.
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For the best taste,
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burek should be eaten straight from the oven.
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Favorite fillings include tender young beef
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and fresh cottage cheese
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from the rich diverse Croatian countryside.
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(bright music)
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The island of Pag in the Mediterranean Sea
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is famous for its extraordinary coastline.
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Modern tourism and traditional farming
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thrive side by side.
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Thanks to its unique microclimate,
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Pag enjoys a reputation
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for top quality dairy produce
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built up over countless generations.
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Hello Sime.
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Ah, you're a bit early today.
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Well, I'm in a hurry.
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Here you are, it'll make good cheese.
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Sure.
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Sime Gligora returned home to Pag
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after studying as a dairy technologist in Zagreb.
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He's using his knowledge
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to develop the family business.
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(speaking in foreign language)
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We have a network
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of about 130 families
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who bring us their milk every day
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from all over the island.
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(speaking in foreign language)
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There are about 8,000 inhabitants
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and 35,000 sheep on Pag.
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That's nearly four sheep for every person.
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Pag has a very specific microclimate
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because of the wind known as the bura
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which blows sea salt onto the land.
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The bura is a dangerous unpredictable wind
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which sweeps down from the north
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covering the island in a fine coating
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of white salty dust.
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The indigenous island sheep
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called (speaking in foreign language)
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have survived here for centuries
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grazing on the rocky pastures.
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They've evolved to eat the only plants
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that grow on the island,
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salvia, mint, lavender and rock rose.
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(speaking in foreign language)
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The farmers are always on the move.
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Twice a day they milk the sheep by hand
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in the open fields.
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All that for about one liter of milk
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per sheep per day.
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(speaking in foreign language)
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It must be among the most expensive milk in the world.
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We pay them 1.70 Euro a liter.
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(speaking in foreign language)
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Although we're using modern machinery to make the cheese,
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it has to be left to mature
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just as it was a century ago.
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Sime makes both fresh and mature cheeses.
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His specialty called paski sir
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gets its distinctive taste
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from the unusual plants eaten by the sheep.
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Its strong flavor is tempered
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by a subtle sweetness.
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(speaking in foreign language)
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Every cheese is handcrafted
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by expert cheesemakers.
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They oil it, turn it and check it.
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That's how we guarantee the quality.
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Sime produces 50 tons of paski sir a year.
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His knowledge, passion and dedication
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has made this cheese famous.
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The mysterious aging process
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continues unseen as the cheese matures on the shelf.
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The taste and texture
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will depend on how long it is left to develop
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its own unique characteristics.
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Pag cheese gets better over time.
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Some people claim two months is ideal.
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Others prefer a year or even two.
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My personal favorite is one year old cheese.
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A couple of years ago,
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Sime took a stall at the Dolac market
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and began selling directly to the public.
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It's a chance to talk to the shoppers
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about the quality that makes his cheese different.
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We found an empty stall at the Dolac
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and here we are.
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We've had a really positive welcome from shoppers.
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People are buying and coming back.
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We're very happy with the stall.
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It's a good way to display our cheese, promote it
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and educate our customers.
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Are you hungry?
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Try one of these.
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Thanks, they're really good.
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The thing about this specific cheese
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is that it ripened for more than six months.
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Let me try some.
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How much is it?
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Sime loves explaining what's what
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and to offer tasty samples.
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Can I try some?
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Pag cheese should melt in the mouth
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leaving a taste of the island herbs.
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You really have to experience
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the sweet aromatic herbs.
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This is great cheese.
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Lets try another one.
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When Sime comes to Zagreb
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he always brings a selection of fresh island cheeses.
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But what most of the regular market customers are after
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is the legendary international award-winning paski sir.
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The indoor market under the main square
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is home to delicatessens, fresh pasta salads,
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bakeries and dairy producers.
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And here,
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you'll also find another famous Croatian specialty,
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cured meats.
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The stalls offer an amazing variety.
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From the east, comes Slavonian ham
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while Istrian prsut is produced
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in the region bordering Italy.
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The bacon is a specialty from the southern province
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of Dalmatia.
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I'll have a small piece of that one.
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Yes please.
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Kulen sausages are a famous type of salami
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from Slavonia
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and are one of the stall's bestsellers.
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Genuine kulen are made only
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from authentic Slavonian black pigs
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which much only be fed on grain, pumpkins and clover.
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The secret to a perfect kulen sausage
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lies in the drying and smoking.
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When done by the rules,
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it will keep for a long time before going off.
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Unlike the cured meats
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which are eaten all year round,
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the turkey season is very short.
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Authentic Zagorje turkeys
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only go on sale towards the end of November.
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(bright music)
(turkeys squawking)
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Just a few kilometers north of Zagreb
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lie the beautiful undulating Zagorje Hills.
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Although close to the city,
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the region still maintains
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the traditional ways of agriculture
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and rearing livestock on small family run farms.
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Large tractors and machinery are rarely seen here.
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The fields and pastures
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are farmed in much the same way
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as they have been for generations.
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10 years ago, Boris Vrhovski
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decided to focus the family business on raising turkeys.
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(whistling)
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(speaking in foreign language)
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In the old days,
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every farm had its own turkey flock.
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We thought why not breed them commercially?
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That way we can really promote the Zagorje turkey.
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(speaking in foreign language)
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(turkeys squawking)
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Boris is determined
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to maintain 500 years of tradition
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by resisting the modern demand
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for turkeys all the year round.
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(turkeys squawking)
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Turkeys arrived in Zagorje
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soon after the discovery of America
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but their relative isolation over the centuries
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has seen the evolution of a unique regional breed.
278
00:15:27,154 --> 00:15:30,670
(speaking in foreign language)
279
00:15:30,670 --> 00:15:32,969
Zagorje turkeys are really healthy birds
280
00:15:32,969 --> 00:15:36,633
when they're allowed to live in green open pastures.
281
00:15:39,520 --> 00:15:42,660
I mainly feed them on homegrown corn
282
00:15:42,660 --> 00:15:45,539
and they spend the day running around the hills
283
00:15:45,539 --> 00:15:48,223
which gives them good, solid muscles.
284
00:15:53,930 --> 00:15:55,950
They're really low in cholesterol,
285
00:15:55,950 --> 00:15:57,743
absolutely full of protein
286
00:15:57,743 --> 00:16:00,199
and they taste wonderful.
287
00:16:00,199 --> 00:16:04,116
(speaking in foreign language)
288
00:16:17,459 --> 00:16:20,376
I treat each bird as an individual.
289
00:16:23,910 --> 00:16:27,480
They're raised naturally and in rhythm with the seasons,
290
00:16:27,480 --> 00:16:29,030
the way they always have been.
291
00:16:29,933 --> 00:16:33,850
(speaking in foreign language)
292
00:16:35,256 --> 00:16:38,256
(turkeys squawking)
293
00:16:48,240 --> 00:16:49,090
Enjoy your treat.
294
00:16:52,243 --> 00:16:54,070
Zagorje turkeys are smaller
295
00:16:54,070 --> 00:16:55,650
and need much more care.
296
00:16:55,650 --> 00:16:58,870
The chicks especially need protection from cold and snow
297
00:16:58,870 --> 00:17:02,053
before they're released to roam freely around the hills.
298
00:17:04,779 --> 00:17:08,680
(speaking in foreign language)
299
00:17:08,680 --> 00:17:10,980
The experts tell us that each turkey
300
00:17:10,980 --> 00:17:14,973
needs a minimum of 25 square meters of open space.
301
00:17:17,738 --> 00:17:18,880
So it's up to us
302
00:17:18,880 --> 00:17:21,350
to make sure we give them all the room they need
303
00:17:21,350 --> 00:17:22,543
to grow up healthy.
304
00:17:35,560 --> 00:17:37,740
Boris wages a constant battle
305
00:17:37,740 --> 00:17:40,270
to keep his turkeys safe from predators.
306
00:17:40,270 --> 00:17:43,550
He ties red flags in the trees where they feed.
307
00:17:43,550 --> 00:17:46,693
It's an old trick but it always works.
308
00:17:51,890 --> 00:17:54,680
The Zagorje turkey enjoys European protected
309
00:17:54,680 --> 00:17:57,130
geographic indication status.
310
00:17:57,130 --> 00:18:00,020
It's traditionally only eaten at Christmas time,
311
00:18:00,020 --> 00:18:03,974
a custom Boris respects and is keen to maintain.
312
00:18:03,974 --> 00:18:06,557
(gentle music)
313
00:18:24,064 --> 00:18:27,690
There have been markets and fairs on this site since 1242
314
00:18:27,690 --> 00:18:30,530
when Zagreb was formed from two separate towns
315
00:18:30,530 --> 00:18:33,633
to become a royal free city of the kingdom of Hungary.
316
00:18:37,530 --> 00:18:38,670
The city flourished
317
00:18:38,670 --> 00:18:41,520
because of its position as an important trading hub
318
00:18:41,520 --> 00:18:44,183
between central Europe and the mediterranean.
319
00:18:45,590 --> 00:18:47,960
To mark the unification of the two towns,
320
00:18:47,960 --> 00:18:49,592
a common market was established
321
00:18:49,592 --> 00:18:51,423
to serve the new city.
322
00:18:53,170 --> 00:18:57,130
The first kunitsa came from the nearby village of Czestina
323
00:18:57,130 --> 00:18:59,453
along with their now famous red umbrellas.
324
00:19:02,831 --> 00:19:05,070
Mladen Ivic is in charge
325
00:19:05,070 --> 00:19:07,033
of the market store under the square.
326
00:19:08,077 --> 00:19:10,050
(speaking in foreign language)
327
00:19:10,050 --> 00:19:12,350
We've got room for 400 in here.
328
00:19:15,507 --> 00:19:17,930
Each day the kunitsa queue
329
00:19:17,930 --> 00:19:21,150
to rent an umbrella and a set of steel scales.
330
00:19:21,150 --> 00:19:23,982
It saves having to bring them from home.
331
00:19:23,982 --> 00:19:24,815
(speaking in foreign language)
332
00:19:24,815 --> 00:19:26,050
You want two?
333
00:19:26,050 --> 00:19:27,627
God bless you, see you.
334
00:19:31,457 --> 00:19:34,140
We've got more than 500 umbrellas
335
00:19:34,140 --> 00:19:35,853
and 200 weighing scales.
336
00:19:40,810 --> 00:19:41,813
It's very simple.
337
00:19:43,090 --> 00:19:45,863
You just fit it together and it works fine.
338
00:19:47,010 --> 00:19:49,693
But it doesn't work so well if any parts come lose.
339
00:19:54,870 --> 00:19:58,730
We open from about 6:30 to nine in the morning
340
00:19:58,730 --> 00:20:01,360
to hire out the umbrellas and scales
341
00:20:01,360 --> 00:20:03,660
and they bring the back at the end of the day.
342
00:20:04,650 --> 00:20:05,640
It depends on the weather
343
00:20:05,640 --> 00:20:07,113
as to how busy we are.
344
00:20:10,052 --> 00:20:13,506
Virtually every one uses the traditional scales
345
00:20:13,506 --> 00:20:16,940
even though they're not as precise as the new ones.
346
00:20:16,940 --> 00:20:19,230
The kunitsa always round up the weight
347
00:20:19,230 --> 00:20:20,853
to keep their customers happy.
348
00:20:24,360 --> 00:20:26,550
The scales and the red umbrellas
349
00:20:26,550 --> 00:20:29,200
have come to symbolize the market.
350
00:20:29,200 --> 00:20:31,733
They've been here from time immemorial.
351
00:20:39,840 --> 00:20:40,786
Mladen makes sure
352
00:20:40,786 --> 00:20:42,890
everything is in perfect order.
353
00:20:42,890 --> 00:20:46,043
It's his job to keep the market operation running smoothly.
354
00:20:51,088 --> 00:20:55,230
(speaking in foreign language)
355
00:20:55,230 --> 00:20:57,066
I spend the day with the stall holders
356
00:20:57,066 --> 00:20:59,791
chatting, joking, having a coffee.
357
00:20:59,791 --> 00:21:01,931
Everyone wants to talk to you.
358
00:21:01,931 --> 00:21:03,603
There's never a dull moment.
359
00:21:04,465 --> 00:21:05,910
(speaking in foreign language)
360
00:21:05,910 --> 00:21:06,743
Nejo, my friend.
361
00:21:08,054 --> 00:21:11,020
I have to know everyone's name.
362
00:21:11,020 --> 00:21:13,013
It took me a year to remember them all.
363
00:21:14,885 --> 00:21:16,550
This is our oldest vendor.
364
00:21:16,550 --> 00:21:19,743
She started, when was it, after the second world war, right?
365
00:21:21,220 --> 00:21:22,053
Yes.
366
00:21:26,230 --> 00:21:27,630
The colors at the market
367
00:21:27,630 --> 00:21:29,623
reflect the colors of the season.
368
00:21:30,506 --> 00:21:33,320
It's June and the last of the cherries
369
00:21:33,320 --> 00:21:36,270
make way for raspberries, blueberries
370
00:21:36,270 --> 00:21:38,380
and the distinctive petrovka pears
371
00:21:38,380 --> 00:21:41,133
which grow alongside the grapes in the vineyards.
372
00:21:45,870 --> 00:21:49,040
These rare pears are small and packed with flavor.
373
00:21:49,040 --> 00:21:51,680
Their appearance on the market around Saint Peter's Day
374
00:21:51,680 --> 00:21:54,149
signals the start of summer.
375
00:21:54,149 --> 00:21:57,066
(thunder clapping)
376
00:22:04,470 --> 00:22:08,000
The Croatian weather is nothing if not unpredictable
377
00:22:08,000 --> 00:22:10,353
and the parasols quickly revert to umbrellas.
378
00:22:27,690 --> 00:22:30,273
The summer downpours are heavy but short.
379
00:22:33,920 --> 00:22:36,660
It won't be long before the black clouds disappear
380
00:22:36,660 --> 00:22:39,743
and the sun shines on the Dolac market once more.
381
00:22:46,170 --> 00:22:49,880
There's a quiet revolution taking place under the umbrellas.
382
00:22:49,880 --> 00:22:52,110
The new generation of younger kunitsa
383
00:22:52,110 --> 00:22:54,980
still grow their own produce and bring it to market
384
00:22:54,980 --> 00:22:57,430
but they're also introducing new varieties
385
00:22:57,430 --> 00:22:59,213
of fruit and vegetables.
386
00:23:07,263 --> 00:23:10,730
Snjezana Polic's family farm is in Dalmatia
387
00:23:10,730 --> 00:23:12,350
where the land is fertile
388
00:23:12,350 --> 00:23:14,403
and the southern climate is gentle.
389
00:23:15,280 --> 00:23:16,860
Would you like some celery?
390
00:23:16,860 --> 00:23:18,250
Anything else?
391
00:23:18,250 --> 00:23:20,783
12 and four, that makes 16 kunas.
392
00:23:24,340 --> 00:23:26,920
My family have been farmers for generations
393
00:23:26,920 --> 00:23:30,173
and I've had a stall on the Dolac for about 20 years now.
394
00:23:32,160 --> 00:23:34,440
Dalmatia is still heavily influenced
395
00:23:34,440 --> 00:23:36,763
by its past as a Venetian republic.
396
00:23:37,640 --> 00:23:38,890
Snjezana grows vegetables
397
00:23:38,890 --> 00:23:41,640
more familiar in southern Mediterranean countries
398
00:23:41,640 --> 00:23:42,680
than in Croatia
399
00:23:43,760 --> 00:23:46,260
like these small and delicate zucchinis
400
00:23:46,260 --> 00:23:48,747
which are eaten complete with their flowers.
401
00:23:48,747 --> 00:23:50,780
You can stuff them with chilis.
402
00:23:50,780 --> 00:23:53,740
Just put them in water and they open up overnight.
403
00:23:53,740 --> 00:23:54,573
In the morning,
404
00:23:54,573 --> 00:23:56,760
fill them with cheese and fry them with butter.
405
00:23:56,760 --> 00:23:59,360
Even without cheese, they still taste fantastic.
406
00:23:59,360 --> 00:24:01,320
They're a real treat.
407
00:24:01,320 --> 00:24:02,430
They'll open up nicely,
408
00:24:02,430 --> 00:24:04,003
they're good quality zucchini.
409
00:24:06,680 --> 00:24:07,893
How many would you like?
410
00:24:11,960 --> 00:24:13,170
Another of Snjezana's
411
00:24:13,170 --> 00:24:14,970
early summer seasonal treats
412
00:24:14,970 --> 00:24:17,683
are juicy bright red watermelons.
413
00:24:22,265 --> 00:24:23,840
People can't wait for them
414
00:24:23,840 --> 00:24:24,990
and they're really pleased
415
00:24:24,990 --> 00:24:26,970
when the first watermelons finally arrive
416
00:24:26,970 --> 00:24:28,320
in June or July.
417
00:24:28,320 --> 00:24:29,860
It's a kind of a craze.
418
00:24:29,860 --> 00:24:32,100
Everyone wants their daily slice of melon
419
00:24:32,100 --> 00:24:33,340
because it's really healthy
420
00:24:33,340 --> 00:24:34,730
and has no calories.
421
00:24:34,730 --> 00:24:36,253
It's a real superfood.
422
00:24:40,470 --> 00:24:43,380
Watermelon is starting to be appreciated more.
423
00:24:43,380 --> 00:24:45,090
It's packed with nutrients
424
00:24:45,090 --> 00:24:47,500
including lycopene for a strong heart
425
00:24:47,500 --> 00:24:49,833
and citrulline for healthy kidneys.
426
00:24:56,450 --> 00:24:58,720
A few years ago, Znjezana Polic and her family
427
00:24:58,720 --> 00:25:02,340
decided to buy another piece of land closer to Zagreb.
428
00:25:02,340 --> 00:25:03,173
Here in the north,
429
00:25:03,173 --> 00:25:06,060
fruit and vegetables ripen later in the season
430
00:25:06,060 --> 00:25:09,150
which means she can carry on selling her own watermelons
431
00:25:09,150 --> 00:25:10,573
for a much longer time.
432
00:25:19,540 --> 00:25:20,373
They're great,
433
00:25:20,373 --> 00:25:23,153
thin rined, ripe and not too flowery.
434
00:25:25,011 --> 00:25:26,980
We think the northern watermelons
435
00:25:26,980 --> 00:25:28,803
are just as good, if not better.
436
00:25:30,002 --> 00:25:31,770
They're sweeter and juicier
437
00:25:31,770 --> 00:25:35,203
because they grow during the sunny days of July and August.
438
00:25:40,000 --> 00:25:41,493
This is the autumn price.
439
00:25:44,510 --> 00:25:47,620
Croatia is small but incredibly diverse
440
00:25:47,620 --> 00:25:49,520
and Snjezana takes full advantage
441
00:25:49,520 --> 00:25:52,373
of the different climatic conditions round the country.
442
00:25:55,530 --> 00:25:59,166
On her stall, you'll find an amazing display of watermelons
443
00:25:59,166 --> 00:26:02,464
next to autumn prunes, pomegranates,
444
00:26:02,464 --> 00:26:05,632
and these incredible purple peas.
445
00:26:05,632 --> 00:26:07,823
Not bad for a young kunitsa.
446
00:26:12,930 --> 00:26:14,040
Autumn draws in
447
00:26:14,040 --> 00:26:15,620
and the residents of Zagreb
448
00:26:15,620 --> 00:26:18,130
prepare for the cold months ahead.
449
00:26:18,130 --> 00:26:20,500
Croatia is a country of contrasts,
450
00:26:20,500 --> 00:26:23,290
warm summer beaches on the Adriatic coast
451
00:26:23,290 --> 00:26:26,273
and cold winters blowing in from eastern Europe.
452
00:26:31,646 --> 00:26:35,500
The Dolac fish market is a mecca for locals.
453
00:26:35,500 --> 00:26:38,900
The stalls are loaded with an amazing variety of seafood
454
00:26:38,900 --> 00:26:40,160
brought in from the hundreds
455
00:26:40,160 --> 00:26:42,433
of small Mediterranean fishing ports.
456
00:26:46,020 --> 00:26:47,800
Look, sardines and anchovies,
457
00:26:47,800 --> 00:26:48,980
they're really fresh.
458
00:26:48,980 --> 00:26:50,190
What would you like, madam?
459
00:26:50,190 --> 00:26:51,640
How much are the shrimps?
460
00:26:51,640 --> 00:26:54,683
These ones are 200, these are 150.
461
00:26:56,550 --> 00:26:59,750
I'll take half a kilo of these ones.
462
00:26:59,750 --> 00:27:01,910
23 year old Antonio Faflja
463
00:27:01,910 --> 00:27:03,980
comes from a fishing family.
464
00:27:03,980 --> 00:27:06,130
One day he's on the market in Zagreb,
465
00:27:06,130 --> 00:27:07,743
the next, he's out at sea.
466
00:27:10,820 --> 00:27:12,510
Most people come to Dolac
467
00:27:12,510 --> 00:27:13,713
to buy sardines.
468
00:27:15,070 --> 00:27:17,850
They're caught at night with drag nets
469
00:27:17,850 --> 00:27:20,400
and by morning, they're on sale here at the market.
470
00:27:28,127 --> 00:27:31,780
Croatians love the common local fish varieties
471
00:27:31,780 --> 00:27:34,570
and they flock to the market every day to buy them.
472
00:27:38,110 --> 00:27:39,810
Another favorite is hake
473
00:27:39,810 --> 00:27:41,803
which is best fished in the autumn.
474
00:27:44,534 --> 00:27:46,460
I'd like a kilo of hake.
475
00:27:46,460 --> 00:27:48,310
Why are there three different prices?
476
00:27:49,160 --> 00:27:50,980
This is the top grade, the biggest ones.
477
00:27:51,983 --> 00:27:53,263
This is medium.
478
00:27:54,790 --> 00:27:56,690
And this is smaller.
479
00:27:56,690 --> 00:27:58,313
It's better for frying in a pan.
480
00:28:00,110 --> 00:28:01,710
The only difference is the size.
481
00:28:03,710 --> 00:28:05,280
Are they all just as fresh?
482
00:28:05,280 --> 00:28:06,230
Yes.
483
00:28:08,060 --> 00:28:09,640
Hake is easy to prepare
484
00:28:09,640 --> 00:28:11,590
and can be cooked in several different ways,
485
00:28:11,590 --> 00:28:13,960
fried, grilled or baked.
486
00:28:13,960 --> 00:28:15,460
Older people especially like it
487
00:28:15,460 --> 00:28:18,723
because it's light, healthy and easily digestable.
488
00:28:21,182 --> 00:28:23,920
You can tell how fresh the hake is
489
00:28:23,920 --> 00:28:25,540
while you're cleaning it.
490
00:28:25,540 --> 00:28:27,023
If its belly is snow white,
491
00:28:27,023 --> 00:28:28,843
you can be sure it's really fresh.
492
00:28:34,620 --> 00:28:36,010
When the stall is quiet,
493
00:28:36,010 --> 00:28:39,210
Antonio will also clean the fish for his customers,
494
00:28:39,210 --> 00:28:41,303
especially the more unusual ones.
495
00:28:43,340 --> 00:28:45,050
Tourists are often surprised
496
00:28:45,050 --> 00:28:47,520
by the variety and quantity of fish on offer
497
00:28:47,520 --> 00:28:48,863
in the busy market.
498
00:29:00,240 --> 00:29:03,500
Zagreb is only 150 kilometers from the coast
499
00:29:03,500 --> 00:29:07,020
where Croatia faces Italy across the Adriatic Sea
500
00:29:07,020 --> 00:29:10,563
dotted with its more than 1,200 islands and islets.
501
00:29:13,617 --> 00:29:16,750
The sea still rules the lives of the islanders,
502
00:29:16,750 --> 00:29:18,783
just as it has for thousands of years.
503
00:29:23,410 --> 00:29:24,243
Wala!
504
00:29:29,253 --> 00:29:32,250
I come from a fishing family.
505
00:29:32,250 --> 00:29:33,943
I started when I was very young.
506
00:29:34,850 --> 00:29:38,233
Now I can't imagine life without a boat and without fishing.
507
00:29:45,110 --> 00:29:47,000
After a few days of bad weather,
508
00:29:47,000 --> 00:29:48,150
the sun shines once more
509
00:29:48,150 --> 00:29:50,120
on the island of Rab.
510
00:29:50,120 --> 00:29:51,710
It might be cold in Zagreb
511
00:29:51,710 --> 00:29:54,313
but here on the coast, it's mild and sunny.
512
00:30:04,850 --> 00:30:06,150
My father and I only fish
513
00:30:06,150 --> 00:30:08,250
in the waters around Rab.
514
00:30:08,250 --> 00:30:12,290
And usually find the best quality hake in Karana Bay.
515
00:30:12,290 --> 00:30:13,123
Some people say
516
00:30:13,123 --> 00:30:16,130
it's because of the particular water quality there.
517
00:30:16,130 --> 00:30:18,490
It might be to do with the salinity of the water
518
00:30:18,490 --> 00:30:20,443
or it might be something else.
519
00:30:23,247 --> 00:30:24,490
Antonio's father
520
00:30:24,490 --> 00:30:27,590
is passing a lifetime's knowledge onto his son,
521
00:30:27,590 --> 00:30:29,910
facing the challenges of being a fisherman
522
00:30:29,910 --> 00:30:31,533
and staying safe at sea.
523
00:30:32,509 --> 00:30:35,092
(bright music)
524
00:30:48,409 --> 00:30:49,290
You have to tie it up tightly
525
00:30:49,290 --> 00:30:50,700
so the fish can't get out.
526
00:30:57,298 --> 00:30:59,170
The weather is set fair
527
00:30:59,170 --> 00:31:01,180
for a good day's hake fishing
528
00:31:01,180 --> 00:31:02,280
but you never know,
529
00:31:02,280 --> 00:31:04,533
fishing is always unpredictable.
530
00:31:08,110 --> 00:31:09,340
On a beautiful sunny day
531
00:31:09,340 --> 00:31:12,300
I wouldn't swap this job for anything.
532
00:31:12,300 --> 00:31:15,040
You've got everything you could possibly want
533
00:31:15,040 --> 00:31:16,190
right here on the boat.
534
00:31:17,310 --> 00:31:19,870
But on other days, the southerly wind is so strong
535
00:31:19,870 --> 00:31:21,973
it blows a glass of water off the table.
536
00:31:23,040 --> 00:31:24,340
Then it's not so much fun.
537
00:31:25,320 --> 00:31:27,205
But you still have to go fishing
538
00:31:27,205 --> 00:31:29,483
so you've got something to sell at the Dolac.
539
00:31:38,260 --> 00:31:40,410
Antonio has already promised his regulars
540
00:31:40,410 --> 00:31:42,923
he'll be back with some top quality hake.
541
00:31:45,086 --> 00:31:47,630
This is good, the seagulls are here,
542
00:31:47,630 --> 00:31:48,780
dad, the fish are here.
543
00:31:50,360 --> 00:31:53,023
Come on, let's fish.
544
00:31:57,730 --> 00:32:00,170
Hake are deep sea predator fish.
545
00:32:00,170 --> 00:32:02,900
They live around 350 meters deep
546
00:32:02,900 --> 00:32:05,180
but at night, they come into shallow water
547
00:32:05,180 --> 00:32:06,570
to feed on shellfish,
548
00:32:06,570 --> 00:32:09,363
smaller species and even each other.
549
00:32:15,714 --> 00:32:16,670
The best time
550
00:32:16,670 --> 00:32:19,200
to find big shoals of hake around Rab
551
00:32:19,200 --> 00:32:20,880
is between the beginning of October
552
00:32:20,880 --> 00:32:22,783
and the end of January.
553
00:32:24,230 --> 00:32:25,859
They're here all year round
554
00:32:25,859 --> 00:32:28,083
but that's when you get the big catches.
555
00:32:31,040 --> 00:32:33,633
And who'll take care of the sea if we don't?
556
00:32:38,360 --> 00:32:39,410
Once on the boat,
557
00:32:39,410 --> 00:32:42,363
the haul is sorted and graded for tomorrow's market.
558
00:32:43,460 --> 00:32:46,493
It's time for Antonio to see what the catch is worth.
559
00:32:48,589 --> 00:32:50,420
This is a big one.
560
00:32:50,420 --> 00:32:52,123
It'll sell for 65 kunas.
561
00:32:53,280 --> 00:32:54,783
This one's a bit smaller.
562
00:32:54,783 --> 00:32:56,153
It's worth 50 kunas.
563
00:33:06,010 --> 00:33:08,200
The long night's fishing is over.
564
00:33:08,200 --> 00:33:11,113
Time for Antonio and his father to head for home.
565
00:33:26,070 --> 00:33:29,320
Although most of the produce in the Dolac is home grown,
566
00:33:29,320 --> 00:33:32,200
some shoppers particularly want organic food
567
00:33:32,200 --> 00:33:35,063
which is grown according to strict regulations.
568
00:33:36,980 --> 00:33:39,830
The Sever family have two organic food stalls
569
00:33:39,830 --> 00:33:41,690
at the Dolac market.
570
00:33:41,690 --> 00:33:43,660
They started farming some years back
571
00:33:43,660 --> 00:33:46,763
and have always maintained a natural healthy approach.
572
00:33:47,649 --> 00:33:48,482
Here you are.
573
00:33:48,482 --> 00:33:49,315
Thanks a lot.
574
00:33:49,315 --> 00:33:50,300
There's cauliflower, tomatoes,
575
00:33:50,300 --> 00:33:51,840
pindur, peaches.
576
00:33:51,840 --> 00:33:52,673
No broccoli?
577
00:33:52,673 --> 00:33:53,793
No, it's all gone.
578
00:33:58,797 --> 00:34:01,790
(bright music)
579
00:34:01,790 --> 00:34:04,180
Mario Sever and his wife Ivka
580
00:34:04,180 --> 00:34:07,283
got into the fruit and vegetable business by accident.
581
00:34:10,679 --> 00:34:13,620
My mother had some land near Barschden
582
00:34:13,620 --> 00:34:14,970
where she was born
583
00:34:14,970 --> 00:34:17,490
and we used it to grow fruit and vegetables
584
00:34:17,490 --> 00:34:18,573
just for ourselves.
585
00:34:19,470 --> 00:34:21,040
We wanted to know what we were eating
586
00:34:21,040 --> 00:34:22,563
and where it came from.
587
00:34:23,790 --> 00:34:25,220
So we grew everything organically
588
00:34:25,220 --> 00:34:28,653
and didn't use any chemical pesticides or fertilizers.
589
00:34:32,910 --> 00:34:34,980
Some years, the harvest was so good
590
00:34:34,980 --> 00:34:36,530
they had more than they could eat,
591
00:34:36,530 --> 00:34:39,543
so they started giving it away to friends and family.
592
00:34:42,108 --> 00:34:45,080
Then we lost our jobs in 2000.
593
00:34:45,080 --> 00:34:47,320
We turned our hobby into a business.
594
00:34:47,320 --> 00:34:50,063
Since then, we've been full time organic farmers.
595
00:34:52,750 --> 00:34:54,880
Ever since, Mario and Ivka
596
00:34:54,880 --> 00:34:57,253
have made a living from their great passion.
597
00:35:01,430 --> 00:35:02,480
A year later,
598
00:35:02,480 --> 00:35:05,330
we were certified by French organic inspectors
599
00:35:05,330 --> 00:35:07,000
under international rules
600
00:35:07,000 --> 00:35:09,443
which are recognized by all EU countries.
601
00:35:12,410 --> 00:35:15,700
The next year, Croatia introduced a legally binding register
602
00:35:15,700 --> 00:35:18,590
and we became the first certified organic farm
603
00:35:18,590 --> 00:35:19,423
in the country.
604
00:35:26,540 --> 00:35:27,820
Ivka also likes cooking
605
00:35:27,820 --> 00:35:30,810
and she's rediscovered an old recipe of her grandmother's
606
00:35:30,810 --> 00:35:32,323
for a sauce called pindur.
607
00:35:33,804 --> 00:35:36,800
(speaking in foreign language)
608
00:35:36,800 --> 00:35:38,930
The A to Z of pindur ingredients
609
00:35:38,930 --> 00:35:39,993
goes like this,
610
00:35:41,070 --> 00:35:46,070
oil, salt, apple vinegar, tomatoes, paprika,
611
00:35:46,360 --> 00:35:49,093
hot paprika, garlic and parsley.
612
00:35:51,583 --> 00:35:54,250
Everything is grown on our farm.
613
00:35:58,460 --> 00:35:59,930
Pindur was originally made
614
00:35:59,930 --> 00:36:01,830
so farmers could get a taste of summer
615
00:36:01,830 --> 00:36:03,923
during the cold months of winter.
616
00:36:10,310 --> 00:36:12,390
Ivka and Mario's pindur
617
00:36:12,390 --> 00:36:14,590
has become one of their top sellers.
618
00:36:14,590 --> 00:36:17,623
It's famous throughout the market and beyond.
619
00:36:19,980 --> 00:36:20,813
So you grow
620
00:36:20,813 --> 00:36:23,170
all the ingredients yourself, right?
621
00:36:23,170 --> 00:36:24,870
Yes, we grow all the peppers,
622
00:36:24,870 --> 00:36:27,463
the tomatoes, the parsley and the garlic.
623
00:36:28,390 --> 00:36:30,320
Everything we grow is organic.
624
00:36:30,320 --> 00:36:31,370
Great.
625
00:36:32,260 --> 00:36:34,130
Pindur is just one of the preserves
626
00:36:34,130 --> 00:36:35,380
sold on the stall.
627
00:36:35,380 --> 00:36:38,680
There's sauerkraut, cucumbers pickled in apple vinegar
628
00:36:38,680 --> 00:36:41,060
and a pepper sauce called ajvar.
629
00:36:41,060 --> 00:36:43,140
Shoppers often end up with a box full
630
00:36:43,140 --> 00:36:46,790
of both fresh and pickled produce.
631
00:36:46,790 --> 00:36:48,290
How much are the little ones?
632
00:36:48,290 --> 00:36:49,190
20.
633
00:36:52,943 --> 00:36:53,776
Thank you.
634
00:36:58,533 --> 00:37:00,080
Ivka and Mario's story
635
00:37:00,080 --> 00:37:01,780
proves there's money to be made
636
00:37:01,780 --> 00:37:05,063
from consumers increasing demand for organic food.
637
00:37:08,270 --> 00:37:10,478
It's beautiful to see your crops grow
638
00:37:10,478 --> 00:37:11,733
day by day.
639
00:37:13,770 --> 00:37:16,320
We like having personal contact with our customers.
640
00:37:17,260 --> 00:37:19,660
We need to know what they think of our products.
641
00:37:22,234 --> 00:37:23,067
Is this okay?
642
00:37:25,720 --> 00:37:26,563
How many, three?
643
00:37:27,610 --> 00:37:28,443
Anything else?
644
00:37:31,490 --> 00:37:33,000
Their products are so good
645
00:37:33,000 --> 00:37:34,890
and their business is so successful,
646
00:37:34,890 --> 00:37:37,450
they were named best family farmers of the year
647
00:37:37,450 --> 00:37:39,913
by Croatia's minister of agriculture.
648
00:37:41,101 --> 00:37:43,684
(bright music)
649
00:38:05,190 --> 00:38:06,120
Get some mushrooms.
650
00:38:06,120 --> 00:38:07,830
We've only got one tray left.
651
00:38:07,830 --> 00:38:09,363
And some sprouts as well.
652
00:38:11,310 --> 00:38:12,750
What about cakes?
653
00:38:12,750 --> 00:38:13,750
Strawberries?
654
00:38:13,750 --> 00:38:14,780
Raspberries.
655
00:38:14,780 --> 00:38:16,930
And raspberries for dessert.
656
00:38:19,570 --> 00:38:22,150
Anna Ugarkovic is a renowned chef
657
00:38:22,150 --> 00:38:23,840
running a laid back restaurant
658
00:38:23,840 --> 00:38:26,240
in the very heart of Zagreb.
659
00:38:26,240 --> 00:38:28,720
Here, taste is the only rule.
660
00:38:28,720 --> 00:38:30,900
Forget fancy fine dining.
661
00:38:30,900 --> 00:38:35,233
Anna only cooks top quality simple local food.
662
00:38:39,630 --> 00:38:41,857
I come to the market every day.
663
00:38:43,106 --> 00:38:45,910
I do have my regular suppliers
664
00:38:45,910 --> 00:38:47,020
but I like to shop around
665
00:38:47,020 --> 00:38:50,243
to get the best quality and value on that day.
666
00:38:52,810 --> 00:38:53,643
Hello.
667
00:38:54,946 --> 00:38:57,948
I'll just take a couple of these chili peppers.
668
00:38:57,948 --> 00:39:01,865
(speaking in foreign language)
669
00:39:02,943 --> 00:39:04,110
Three will do.
670
00:39:13,180 --> 00:39:15,310
As well as stocking up for the kitchen,
671
00:39:15,310 --> 00:39:17,460
Anna sees what's available at the market
672
00:39:17,460 --> 00:39:20,150
before deciding that day's menu.
673
00:39:20,150 --> 00:39:23,180
She gets inspiration from whatever is in season
674
00:39:23,180 --> 00:39:26,390
and often adapts her dishes or invents new ones
675
00:39:26,390 --> 00:39:28,213
depending on what she finds.
676
00:39:31,480 --> 00:39:32,313
I'm really happy
677
00:39:32,313 --> 00:39:33,803
when I find the best produce.
678
00:39:35,464 --> 00:39:38,272
If it's good quality, it's hard to ruin it
679
00:39:38,272 --> 00:39:39,883
though not impossible.
680
00:39:45,867 --> 00:39:47,860
These look really nice.
681
00:39:47,860 --> 00:39:49,540
How many times a year do you get them?
682
00:39:49,540 --> 00:39:50,373
Hardly ever,
683
00:39:50,373 --> 00:39:51,650
usually in the autumn.
684
00:39:51,650 --> 00:39:53,500
They're not available all year round.
685
00:39:56,320 --> 00:39:57,963
Anna, that's two kilos, 20.
686
00:40:10,886 --> 00:40:13,400
Anna used to present food programs
687
00:40:13,400 --> 00:40:14,830
on national television
688
00:40:14,830 --> 00:40:18,053
but now she sees cooking as a reward in itself.
689
00:40:22,490 --> 00:40:24,200
Back in her restaurant kitchen,
690
00:40:24,200 --> 00:40:25,680
Anna tries out the dish
691
00:40:25,680 --> 00:40:28,223
she will be serving to her customers tonight.
692
00:40:30,411 --> 00:40:31,960
You can tell these shrimps
693
00:40:31,960 --> 00:40:33,343
are from Lake Prokljan.
694
00:40:34,656 --> 00:40:37,300
They're not pink like the regular ones,
695
00:40:37,300 --> 00:40:39,363
more gray or brown with tiger stripes.
696
00:40:42,753 --> 00:40:45,950
Lake Prokljan shrimp are a rare delicacy
697
00:40:45,950 --> 00:40:47,430
which can easily be ruined
698
00:40:47,430 --> 00:40:49,313
by overcomplicated cooking.
699
00:40:50,640 --> 00:40:54,128
Anna makes a pesto made from garlic, toasted bread crumbs,
700
00:40:54,128 --> 00:40:56,913
thyme, pine nuts and hot paprika.
701
00:41:04,534 --> 00:41:06,480
Mmm, super.
702
00:41:06,480 --> 00:41:09,360
Next, she fries it and adds the shrimp.
703
00:41:09,360 --> 00:41:11,536
(speaking in foreign language)
704
00:41:11,536 --> 00:41:13,170
Croatia doesn't have many estuaries.
705
00:41:13,170 --> 00:41:14,770
So these shrimps are quite rare.
706
00:41:17,600 --> 00:41:18,860
When you do get them,
707
00:41:18,860 --> 00:41:20,360
it's something pretty special.
708
00:41:24,150 --> 00:41:26,233
Lake Prokljan shrimps are unusual.
709
00:41:28,417 --> 00:41:30,303
They live in brackish water.
710
00:41:33,480 --> 00:41:35,532
It's not as salty as the sea
711
00:41:35,532 --> 00:41:37,713
and gives them a sweeter taste.
712
00:41:39,670 --> 00:41:41,590
She doesn't wash them with fresh water.
713
00:41:41,590 --> 00:41:44,770
It's important they retain their salty taste.
714
00:41:44,770 --> 00:41:45,700
Anna can't wait
715
00:41:45,700 --> 00:41:48,800
to try out her unexpected find on her customers
716
00:41:48,800 --> 00:41:50,143
and see their reaction.
717
00:41:51,097 --> 00:41:52,830
(speaking in foreign language)
718
00:41:52,830 --> 00:41:54,180
We don't often serve food
719
00:41:54,180 --> 00:41:55,830
that you can eat with your hands.
720
00:41:58,371 --> 00:42:01,550
But sometimes I want to give people the experience
721
00:42:01,550 --> 00:42:02,800
of licking their fingers.
722
00:42:06,710 --> 00:42:07,543
Anna's confident
723
00:42:07,543 --> 00:42:09,490
that her customers will enjoy the shrimp
724
00:42:09,490 --> 00:42:10,693
as much as she did.
725
00:42:15,182 --> 00:42:19,682
Oh, these are really something special.
726
00:42:23,251 --> 00:42:25,594
(giggles)
727
00:42:25,594 --> 00:42:28,177
(bright music)
728
00:42:31,620 --> 00:42:33,856
Every morning six days a week,
729
00:42:33,856 --> 00:42:36,590
Brankica Solina picks fresh vegetables
730
00:42:36,590 --> 00:42:38,037
to sell at the Dolac.
731
00:42:42,388 --> 00:42:44,770
As usual, her daughter helps out
732
00:42:44,770 --> 00:42:48,513
before going on to her math studies at the university.
733
00:42:48,513 --> 00:42:51,096
(bright music)
734
00:42:55,971 --> 00:42:58,380
Brankica and a few of the other stall holders
735
00:42:58,380 --> 00:43:00,380
are trying to introduce their customers
736
00:43:00,380 --> 00:43:02,330
to different experiences.
737
00:43:02,330 --> 00:43:05,743
But it's a challenge to get people to try new produce.
738
00:43:11,420 --> 00:43:13,280
She still keeps up the family business
739
00:43:13,280 --> 00:43:15,320
of farming traditional products
740
00:43:15,320 --> 00:43:17,023
but she's just bought a display fridge
741
00:43:17,023 --> 00:43:19,240
and it's the first stall on the market
742
00:43:19,240 --> 00:43:21,863
to sell bean sprouts and microgreens.
743
00:43:31,610 --> 00:43:33,250
You grow your own?
744
00:43:33,250 --> 00:43:34,370
Everything you see here
745
00:43:34,370 --> 00:43:35,470
is from my own garden.
746
00:43:37,325 --> 00:43:38,930
Many customers
747
00:43:38,930 --> 00:43:40,960
have rather conservative tastes
748
00:43:40,960 --> 00:43:42,700
and stick to what they know
749
00:43:42,700 --> 00:43:44,400
but once they've tried the bean sprouts
750
00:43:44,400 --> 00:43:45,850
and other new produce,
751
00:43:45,850 --> 00:43:47,083
they come back for more.
752
00:43:48,220 --> 00:43:50,693
Broccoli, no, it's all gone.
753
00:43:54,090 --> 00:43:55,520
We only had a few.
754
00:43:55,520 --> 00:43:58,420
We've only got crass, water greens and field mustard left.
755
00:44:00,900 --> 00:44:02,960
The fridge and other essential equipment
756
00:44:02,960 --> 00:44:04,940
was a big outlay for Brankica
757
00:44:04,940 --> 00:44:08,223
but she's confident in a good return from her investment.
758
00:44:11,090 --> 00:44:13,250
Sprouts are incredibly good for you.
759
00:44:13,250 --> 00:44:14,387
People come back for more
760
00:44:14,387 --> 00:44:17,137
because they eat them and start to feel really healthy.
761
00:44:21,355 --> 00:44:23,660
They can be eaten raw in salads.
762
00:44:23,660 --> 00:44:25,360
Some people add them to smoothies.
763
00:44:27,940 --> 00:44:30,910
People, say one cup of alfalfa sprouts
764
00:44:30,910 --> 00:44:34,053
has four times the vitamin C of a glass of orange juice.
765
00:44:43,922 --> 00:44:45,440
Brankica's day on the market ends
766
00:44:45,440 --> 00:44:47,140
when her husband picks her up
767
00:44:47,140 --> 00:44:48,370
but as soon as she's home,
768
00:44:48,370 --> 00:44:51,113
it's time to prepare the sprouts for tomorrow.
769
00:44:52,898 --> 00:44:53,948
Great.
770
00:44:56,010 --> 00:44:57,847
My ride's here, I'm off.
771
00:45:16,780 --> 00:45:18,830
Seven and a half years ago
772
00:45:18,830 --> 00:45:21,320
we went with a friend to a market in Leon
773
00:45:21,320 --> 00:45:23,720
and we saw the sprouts there for the first time.
774
00:45:24,930 --> 00:45:27,070
You couldn't get them anywhere in Croatia then
775
00:45:27,070 --> 00:45:28,543
so we started growing them.
776
00:45:32,380 --> 00:45:34,653
And now we cultivate around 15 varieties.
777
00:45:38,568 --> 00:45:39,401
Over the years,
778
00:45:39,401 --> 00:45:40,910
people have gradually got used to them
779
00:45:40,910 --> 00:45:42,610
and they are increasingly popular.
780
00:45:43,850 --> 00:45:46,340
They don't use any compost or fertilizers
781
00:45:46,340 --> 00:45:48,550
on their bean sprouts and microgreens
782
00:45:48,550 --> 00:45:50,310
but they need washing and packaging
783
00:45:50,310 --> 00:45:51,503
before they're sold.
784
00:45:54,440 --> 00:45:56,940
The variety is quite astonishing.
785
00:45:56,940 --> 00:45:58,670
Pungent horseradish,
786
00:45:58,670 --> 00:46:02,530
subtly flavored daikon and fiery field mustard.
787
00:46:02,530 --> 00:46:05,440
Bittersweet fenugreek and fresh garlic sprouts
788
00:46:05,440 --> 00:46:07,538
with their intense, concentrated taste
789
00:46:07,538 --> 00:46:09,187
and no cooking needed
790
00:46:09,187 --> 00:46:11,133
as they're best eaten raw.
791
00:46:13,520 --> 00:46:15,440
Sprouts contain all the goodness
792
00:46:15,440 --> 00:46:17,410
of a fully grown plant.
793
00:46:17,410 --> 00:46:19,333
They're one of nature's miracles.
794
00:46:23,640 --> 00:46:28,220
(speaking in foreign language)
795
00:46:28,220 --> 00:46:29,303
Give me some.
796
00:46:30,540 --> 00:46:31,373
There you are.
797
00:46:31,373 --> 00:46:34,133
These garlic sprouts make a perfect topping.
798
00:46:36,539 --> 00:46:39,644
Sprouts grow all year round, that's important
799
00:46:39,644 --> 00:46:41,250
because we can sell them
800
00:46:41,250 --> 00:46:43,203
even when we have no other vegetables.
801
00:46:45,620 --> 00:46:46,703
Cheese, Ada?
802
00:46:46,703 --> 00:46:48,110
No thanks.
803
00:46:48,110 --> 00:46:49,423
You sure?
804
00:46:49,423 --> 00:46:52,006
(bright music)
805
00:47:04,260 --> 00:47:06,050
Architect Niko Gamulin
806
00:47:06,050 --> 00:47:08,930
has spent a lifetime shopping at the market.
807
00:47:08,930 --> 00:47:11,653
He knows every stall and every vendor.
808
00:47:14,270 --> 00:47:15,103
Hello.
809
00:47:15,103 --> 00:47:17,013
I'd like some of your beautiful greens.
810
00:47:19,310 --> 00:47:22,110
Some of this and this?
811
00:47:22,110 --> 00:47:23,560
Is it parsley?
812
00:47:25,492 --> 00:47:28,020
You have to set aside at least an hour
813
00:47:28,020 --> 00:47:29,270
to walk around the market
814
00:47:31,388 --> 00:47:33,600
to check out the best produce
815
00:47:33,600 --> 00:47:34,650
and do your shopping.
816
00:47:38,280 --> 00:47:41,613
There you go, super soup.
817
00:47:43,240 --> 00:47:45,150
Maybe you'll spot something really tasty
818
00:47:45,150 --> 00:47:46,770
and you'll buy it,
819
00:47:46,770 --> 00:47:48,140
even if you don't need it,
820
00:47:48,140 --> 00:47:49,240
it's kind of a ritual.
821
00:47:52,820 --> 00:47:55,840
Niko is a big fan of slow shopping.
822
00:47:55,840 --> 00:47:56,940
Once in the Dolac,
823
00:47:56,940 --> 00:47:59,893
he immerses himself in the whole sensory experience.
824
00:48:03,270 --> 00:48:05,668
That's extraordinary.
825
00:48:05,668 --> 00:48:08,357
They're better with some fat on, aren't they?
826
00:48:12,460 --> 00:48:13,293
How are you?
827
00:48:13,293 --> 00:48:14,851
Fine, and you?
828
00:48:14,851 --> 00:48:16,078
Great.
829
00:48:16,078 --> 00:48:17,763
I'd like some white cheese.
830
00:48:19,910 --> 00:48:21,720
Sliced?
831
00:48:21,720 --> 00:48:23,550
No, I've got a container here
832
00:48:23,550 --> 00:48:25,840
and some cream as well, I love your cream.
833
00:48:25,840 --> 00:48:27,260
Here, try some.
834
00:48:27,260 --> 00:48:28,960
I love it when it's a bit yellow,
835
00:48:28,960 --> 00:48:30,810
not pure white.
836
00:48:30,810 --> 00:48:34,727
(speaking in foreign language)
837
00:48:36,920 --> 00:48:39,500
Tasting the cheese and cream before you buy it
838
00:48:39,500 --> 00:48:41,900
is an old Croatian custom.
839
00:48:41,900 --> 00:48:43,507
The kunitsas of the Dolac
840
00:48:43,507 --> 00:48:45,663
are happy to keep up the tradition.
841
00:48:49,850 --> 00:48:52,012
Two pieces of cheese please
842
00:48:52,012 --> 00:48:53,066
with some cream on top?
843
00:48:53,066 --> 00:48:56,520
Sure.
844
00:48:56,520 --> 00:48:57,920
It's beautiful.
845
00:48:57,920 --> 00:49:01,819
Dairy products have always sold well on the Dolac
846
00:49:01,819 --> 00:49:04,210
and people like the kunitsa who live further away
847
00:49:04,210 --> 00:49:05,663
like Krejetza or Zabok.
848
00:49:07,920 --> 00:49:10,310
Shoppers usually stick to their favorite stall
849
00:49:10,310 --> 00:49:12,690
even if another one has better produce.
850
00:49:12,690 --> 00:49:14,453
You develop a loyalty over time.
851
00:49:20,480 --> 00:49:23,200
Even though the market is constantly evolving,
852
00:49:23,200 --> 00:49:24,090
Niko is happy
853
00:49:24,090 --> 00:49:26,703
that it's still the heart and soul of the city.
854
00:49:29,930 --> 00:49:33,331
The market is a microcosm of society.
855
00:49:33,331 --> 00:49:36,700
You can tell what's happening in the wider world.
856
00:49:36,700 --> 00:49:38,697
Prices go up or down,
857
00:49:38,697 --> 00:49:41,520
people have more or less money to spend,
858
00:49:41,520 --> 00:49:43,870
shoppers are looking for bargains.
859
00:49:43,870 --> 00:49:45,660
You only have to come to the Dolac
860
00:49:45,660 --> 00:49:48,573
to understand how the economy is going.
861
00:49:56,410 --> 00:49:59,400
Niko has been a market regular for 50 years
862
00:49:59,400 --> 00:50:02,070
but he never ceases to be amazed by the stalls
863
00:50:02,070 --> 00:50:03,513
and the people behind them.
864
00:50:06,628 --> 00:50:08,300
Thank you very much.
865
00:50:08,300 --> 00:50:09,493
You're welcome.
866
00:50:12,088 --> 00:50:14,287
The market is unique.
867
00:50:14,287 --> 00:50:16,473
It can't be replaced by anything else.
868
00:50:17,320 --> 00:50:18,720
We have to be on our guard
869
00:50:18,720 --> 00:50:21,290
because whenever a market is moved
870
00:50:21,290 --> 00:50:23,948
to make way for a shiny new development,
871
00:50:23,948 --> 00:50:26,010
it's lost forever.
872
00:50:26,010 --> 00:50:27,490
Markets play a vital role
873
00:50:27,490 --> 00:50:29,866
in the lives of ordinary people.
874
00:50:29,866 --> 00:50:33,033
And once they're gone, they can't be replaced.
875
00:50:39,080 --> 00:50:41,773
Girls, these grapes are as sweet as honey.
876
00:50:45,200 --> 00:50:47,540
Developed over countless generations,
877
00:50:47,540 --> 00:50:50,500
the special relationship between vendors and buyers
878
00:50:50,500 --> 00:50:52,293
makes this market unique.
879
00:50:54,234 --> 00:50:55,870
Thanks to the kunitsa,
880
00:50:55,870 --> 00:50:58,430
the farmers, the fishermen and the cheesemakers,
881
00:50:58,430 --> 00:51:01,180
every day the Dolac brings the fresh taste
882
00:51:01,180 --> 00:51:05,025
of the Croatian countryside right into the city.
883
00:51:05,025 --> 00:51:07,608
(bright music)
884
00:51:57,252 --> 00:52:01,252
(speaking in foreign language)
63843
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