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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:02,900 --> 00:00:05,830 We all crave good quality fresh food. 2 00:00:05,830 --> 00:00:07,220 We want to know where it comes from 3 00:00:07,220 --> 00:00:08,503 and how it's produced. 4 00:00:09,565 --> 00:00:11,130 Urban food markets, 5 00:00:11,130 --> 00:00:12,760 the bellies of our cities, 6 00:00:12,760 --> 00:00:14,830 sell fresh, seasonal produce 7 00:00:14,830 --> 00:00:16,490 brought to the market each day 8 00:00:16,490 --> 00:00:18,320 with no fancy packaging. 9 00:00:18,320 --> 00:00:20,483 What you see is what you get. 10 00:00:21,824 --> 00:00:24,407 (bright music) 11 00:00:27,585 --> 00:00:31,840 (speaking in foreign language) 12 00:00:31,840 --> 00:00:33,860 Our series explores the big bellies 13 00:00:33,860 --> 00:00:35,470 of Freiburg in Germany, 14 00:00:35,470 --> 00:00:37,060 Florence in Italy, 15 00:00:37,060 --> 00:00:38,960 the Latvian capital Riga, 16 00:00:38,960 --> 00:00:40,370 Toulouse in France 17 00:00:40,370 --> 00:00:42,333 and the Croatian capital Zagreb. 18 00:00:43,710 --> 00:00:45,280 The markets are a melting pot 19 00:00:45,280 --> 00:00:47,370 of unique regional flavors, 20 00:00:47,370 --> 00:00:49,580 a bridge between town and country. 21 00:00:53,031 --> 00:00:55,614 (bright music) 22 00:01:13,760 --> 00:01:15,760 The Croatian capital Zagreb 23 00:01:15,760 --> 00:01:18,410 straddles the political and cultural fault line 24 00:01:18,410 --> 00:01:20,353 dividing east and west Europe. 25 00:01:21,950 --> 00:01:25,060 Its great boulevards and magnificent architecture 26 00:01:25,060 --> 00:01:27,460 date from the Austrohungarian empire. 27 00:01:27,460 --> 00:01:29,753 The city goes back to ancient Roman times. 28 00:01:32,210 --> 00:01:34,610 After the collapse of the former Yugoslavia, 29 00:01:34,610 --> 00:01:37,160 Zagreb is enjoying a cultural renaissance 30 00:01:37,160 --> 00:01:40,033 spurred by Croatia's entry into the EU. 31 00:01:43,170 --> 00:01:44,080 To visit the city 32 00:01:44,080 --> 00:01:47,410 is to plunge into a rich, vibrant, restless melting pot 33 00:01:47,410 --> 00:01:49,040 of different cultures and traditions 34 00:01:49,040 --> 00:01:51,450 and there's one place you can taste it all, 35 00:01:51,450 --> 00:01:53,473 the Dolac Market. 36 00:01:58,970 --> 00:02:01,080 The market occupies a large square 37 00:02:01,080 --> 00:02:02,900 just a stone's throw from the city's 38 00:02:02,900 --> 00:02:04,793 impressive gothic cathedral. 39 00:02:12,035 --> 00:02:15,850 (speaking in foreign language) 40 00:02:15,850 --> 00:02:18,073 Madam, would you like some apples? 41 00:02:22,270 --> 00:02:23,300 For hundreds of years, 42 00:02:23,300 --> 00:02:25,710 the market has been run by women stall holders 43 00:02:25,710 --> 00:02:27,450 called kunitsa. 44 00:02:27,450 --> 00:02:28,640 There's even a bronze statue 45 00:02:28,640 --> 00:02:30,770 honoring them and their determination 46 00:02:30,770 --> 00:02:32,080 to keep Zagreb supplied 47 00:02:32,080 --> 00:02:33,923 through the most challenging times. 48 00:02:36,890 --> 00:02:40,300 The kunitsa live up to 50 kilometers from the city 49 00:02:40,300 --> 00:02:42,300 but every day they bring their homegrown 50 00:02:42,300 --> 00:02:43,970 seasonal fruit and vegetables 51 00:02:43,970 --> 00:02:45,173 to sell in the square. 52 00:02:54,340 --> 00:02:57,170 Some come from the Zagorje Hills to the north. 53 00:02:57,170 --> 00:02:58,800 Others work the fertile fields 54 00:02:58,800 --> 00:03:01,083 of the Sava River Valley to the south. 55 00:03:03,990 --> 00:03:07,010 Some still bring their produce by bus or train. 56 00:03:07,010 --> 00:03:09,760 Others come in cars or small vans. 57 00:03:09,760 --> 00:03:12,040 Once here, the kunitsa rent a stall 58 00:03:12,040 --> 00:03:13,900 just big enough for their needs. 59 00:03:13,900 --> 00:03:16,040 Even during the Balkan conflict, 60 00:03:16,040 --> 00:03:17,370 they kept the city supplied 61 00:03:17,370 --> 00:03:18,870 with whatever they could grow. 62 00:03:21,165 --> 00:03:21,998 There you are, 63 00:03:21,998 --> 00:03:22,831 thank you very much. 64 00:03:28,960 --> 00:03:30,350 Fresh fruit and vegetables 65 00:03:30,350 --> 00:03:31,640 are sold in the open air 66 00:03:31,640 --> 00:03:34,440 under hundreds of brightly colored umbrellas. 67 00:03:34,440 --> 00:03:35,760 Other produce is for sale 68 00:03:35,760 --> 00:03:37,810 in the covered market beneath their feat 69 00:03:37,810 --> 00:03:39,203 or surrounding the square. 70 00:03:42,370 --> 00:03:43,730 Tucked away in one corner 71 00:03:43,730 --> 00:03:46,860 is a small family run diner serving burek, 72 00:03:46,860 --> 00:03:49,053 a traditional Balkan street food. 73 00:03:51,370 --> 00:03:53,440 Part cafe and part restaurant, 74 00:03:53,440 --> 00:03:55,507 it's easy for visitors to miss it 75 00:03:55,507 --> 00:03:57,900 but it's usually crowded with stall holders 76 00:03:57,900 --> 00:03:59,520 and regular market customers 77 00:03:59,520 --> 00:04:01,200 who come here for their breakfast 78 00:04:01,200 --> 00:04:02,693 or mid morning break. 79 00:04:18,887 --> 00:04:21,310 (speaking in foreign language) 80 00:04:21,310 --> 00:04:22,867 We're lucky we're so busy. 81 00:04:22,867 --> 00:04:25,503 It means everything is always freshly made. 82 00:04:26,460 --> 00:04:29,060 It all gets eaten right away. 83 00:04:29,060 --> 00:04:31,673 The burek is sliced and sold straight from the oven. 84 00:04:37,260 --> 00:04:39,470 Burek is a thick flour based pastry 85 00:04:39,470 --> 00:04:41,100 sold by the slice. 86 00:04:41,100 --> 00:04:43,230 It's usually filled with lamb, beef, 87 00:04:43,230 --> 00:04:45,067 curd cheese or apples. 88 00:04:50,160 --> 00:04:52,020 A staple of Balkan cooking, 89 00:04:52,020 --> 00:04:55,873 it's an old Ottoman dish from Anatolia in Southern Turkey. 90 00:05:02,346 --> 00:05:05,972 (speaking in foreign language) 91 00:05:05,972 --> 00:05:07,922 We only use white flour. 92 00:05:09,160 --> 00:05:10,767 The machine produces a dough 93 00:05:10,767 --> 00:05:13,633 like a cross between bread and cake. 94 00:05:19,703 --> 00:05:22,070 Gjoni is the best burek maker in town. 95 00:05:22,070 --> 00:05:24,370 He's been making it every day since he was 16. 96 00:05:28,334 --> 00:05:30,650 (speaking in foreign language) 97 00:05:30,650 --> 00:05:31,483 I can make 98 00:05:31,483 --> 00:05:33,253 up to 100 balls a day. 99 00:05:36,110 --> 00:05:39,350 It's best to use pork fat and oil 100 00:05:39,350 --> 00:05:41,303 in order for burek to be good. 101 00:05:43,240 --> 00:05:45,523 You spread it over the pastry balls. 102 00:05:49,262 --> 00:05:51,100 Gjoni leaves the pastry to rest 103 00:05:51,100 --> 00:05:53,380 before stretching it into wafer thin layers 104 00:05:53,380 --> 00:05:56,603 which give it a distinctive crunchy and flaky texture. 105 00:06:06,120 --> 00:06:07,210 For the best taste, 106 00:06:07,210 --> 00:06:09,500 burek should be eaten straight from the oven. 107 00:06:09,500 --> 00:06:12,120 Favorite fillings include tender young beef 108 00:06:12,120 --> 00:06:13,590 and fresh cottage cheese 109 00:06:13,590 --> 00:06:16,403 from the rich diverse Croatian countryside. 110 00:06:18,296 --> 00:06:20,879 (bright music) 111 00:06:26,790 --> 00:06:28,841 The island of Pag in the Mediterranean Sea 112 00:06:28,841 --> 00:06:32,300 is famous for its extraordinary coastline. 113 00:06:32,300 --> 00:06:34,390 Modern tourism and traditional farming 114 00:06:34,390 --> 00:06:36,133 thrive side by side. 115 00:06:37,560 --> 00:06:39,710 Thanks to its unique microclimate, 116 00:06:39,710 --> 00:06:41,370 Pag enjoys a reputation 117 00:06:41,370 --> 00:06:43,320 for top quality dairy produce 118 00:06:43,320 --> 00:06:46,620 built up over countless generations. 119 00:06:46,620 --> 00:06:47,630 Hello Sime. 120 00:06:47,630 --> 00:06:49,130 Ah, you're a bit early today. 121 00:06:49,130 --> 00:06:51,434 Well, I'm in a hurry. 122 00:06:51,434 --> 00:06:53,740 Here you are, it'll make good cheese. 123 00:06:53,740 --> 00:06:54,593 Sure. 124 00:06:58,492 --> 00:07:00,750 Sime Gligora returned home to Pag 125 00:07:00,750 --> 00:07:03,820 after studying as a dairy technologist in Zagreb. 126 00:07:03,820 --> 00:07:04,990 He's using his knowledge 127 00:07:04,990 --> 00:07:06,663 to develop the family business. 128 00:07:08,374 --> 00:07:09,340 (speaking in foreign language) 129 00:07:09,340 --> 00:07:10,280 We have a network 130 00:07:10,280 --> 00:07:11,718 of about 130 families 131 00:07:11,718 --> 00:07:13,640 who bring us their milk every day 132 00:07:13,640 --> 00:07:14,983 from all over the island. 133 00:07:16,255 --> 00:07:18,370 (speaking in foreign language) 134 00:07:18,370 --> 00:07:20,230 There are about 8,000 inhabitants 135 00:07:20,230 --> 00:07:22,960 and 35,000 sheep on Pag. 136 00:07:22,960 --> 00:07:25,553 That's nearly four sheep for every person. 137 00:07:30,597 --> 00:07:33,040 Pag has a very specific microclimate 138 00:07:33,040 --> 00:07:35,389 because of the wind known as the bura 139 00:07:35,389 --> 00:07:37,473 which blows sea salt onto the land. 140 00:07:44,130 --> 00:07:46,940 The bura is a dangerous unpredictable wind 141 00:07:46,940 --> 00:07:48,640 which sweeps down from the north 142 00:07:48,640 --> 00:07:50,650 covering the island in a fine coating 143 00:07:50,650 --> 00:07:52,333 of white salty dust. 144 00:07:56,980 --> 00:07:58,550 The indigenous island sheep 145 00:07:58,550 --> 00:08:00,130 called (speaking in foreign language) 146 00:08:00,130 --> 00:08:01,820 have survived here for centuries 147 00:08:01,820 --> 00:08:04,070 grazing on the rocky pastures. 148 00:08:04,070 --> 00:08:05,920 They've evolved to eat the only plants 149 00:08:05,920 --> 00:08:07,400 that grow on the island, 150 00:08:07,400 --> 00:08:10,873 salvia, mint, lavender and rock rose. 151 00:08:15,591 --> 00:08:17,530 (speaking in foreign language) 152 00:08:17,530 --> 00:08:20,138 The farmers are always on the move. 153 00:08:20,138 --> 00:08:22,480 Twice a day they milk the sheep by hand 154 00:08:22,480 --> 00:08:23,430 in the open fields. 155 00:08:25,390 --> 00:08:28,180 All that for about one liter of milk 156 00:08:28,180 --> 00:08:29,343 per sheep per day. 157 00:08:30,332 --> 00:08:34,902 (speaking in foreign language) 158 00:08:34,902 --> 00:08:38,123 It must be among the most expensive milk in the world. 159 00:08:39,940 --> 00:08:42,153 We pay them 1.70 Euro a liter. 160 00:08:53,069 --> 00:08:54,400 (speaking in foreign language) 161 00:08:54,400 --> 00:08:57,480 Although we're using modern machinery to make the cheese, 162 00:08:57,480 --> 00:08:59,440 it has to be left to mature 163 00:09:01,206 --> 00:09:03,253 just as it was a century ago. 164 00:09:10,410 --> 00:09:12,960 Sime makes both fresh and mature cheeses. 165 00:09:12,960 --> 00:09:15,670 His specialty called paski sir 166 00:09:15,670 --> 00:09:17,180 gets its distinctive taste 167 00:09:17,180 --> 00:09:20,060 from the unusual plants eaten by the sheep. 168 00:09:20,060 --> 00:09:21,890 Its strong flavor is tempered 169 00:09:21,890 --> 00:09:23,533 by a subtle sweetness. 170 00:09:24,604 --> 00:09:25,660 (speaking in foreign language) 171 00:09:25,660 --> 00:09:27,010 Every cheese is handcrafted 172 00:09:27,010 --> 00:09:28,783 by expert cheesemakers. 173 00:09:29,730 --> 00:09:31,553 They oil it, turn it and check it. 174 00:09:32,550 --> 00:09:34,393 That's how we guarantee the quality. 175 00:09:39,442 --> 00:09:42,920 Sime produces 50 tons of paski sir a year. 176 00:09:42,920 --> 00:09:45,100 His knowledge, passion and dedication 177 00:09:45,100 --> 00:09:46,903 has made this cheese famous. 178 00:09:49,400 --> 00:09:51,210 The mysterious aging process 179 00:09:51,210 --> 00:09:55,040 continues unseen as the cheese matures on the shelf. 180 00:09:55,040 --> 00:09:56,470 The taste and texture 181 00:09:56,470 --> 00:09:58,920 will depend on how long it is left to develop 182 00:09:58,920 --> 00:10:01,403 its own unique characteristics. 183 00:10:03,432 --> 00:10:06,253 Pag cheese gets better over time. 184 00:10:07,573 --> 00:10:10,310 Some people claim two months is ideal. 185 00:10:10,310 --> 00:10:12,523 Others prefer a year or even two. 186 00:10:14,913 --> 00:10:17,763 My personal favorite is one year old cheese. 187 00:10:20,170 --> 00:10:21,453 A couple of years ago, 188 00:10:21,453 --> 00:10:23,870 Sime took a stall at the Dolac market 189 00:10:23,870 --> 00:10:26,363 and began selling directly to the public. 190 00:10:27,770 --> 00:10:29,410 It's a chance to talk to the shoppers 191 00:10:29,410 --> 00:10:32,023 about the quality that makes his cheese different. 192 00:10:35,017 --> 00:10:37,007 We found an empty stall at the Dolac 193 00:10:37,007 --> 00:10:38,023 and here we are. 194 00:10:39,940 --> 00:10:43,087 We've had a really positive welcome from shoppers. 195 00:10:43,087 --> 00:10:44,833 People are buying and coming back. 196 00:10:46,572 --> 00:10:48,483 We're very happy with the stall. 197 00:10:49,350 --> 00:10:52,290 It's a good way to display our cheese, promote it 198 00:10:52,290 --> 00:10:53,590 and educate our customers. 199 00:11:04,780 --> 00:11:05,613 Are you hungry? 200 00:11:05,613 --> 00:11:06,446 Try one of these. 201 00:11:08,450 --> 00:11:11,020 Thanks, they're really good. 202 00:11:11,020 --> 00:11:12,720 The thing about this specific cheese 203 00:11:12,720 --> 00:11:15,420 is that it ripened for more than six months. 204 00:11:15,420 --> 00:11:16,690 Let me try some. 205 00:11:16,690 --> 00:11:17,523 How much is it? 206 00:11:19,960 --> 00:11:21,880 Sime loves explaining what's what 207 00:11:21,880 --> 00:11:23,893 and to offer tasty samples. 208 00:11:24,810 --> 00:11:26,073 Can I try some? 209 00:11:27,670 --> 00:11:29,510 Pag cheese should melt in the mouth 210 00:11:29,510 --> 00:11:31,710 leaving a taste of the island herbs. 211 00:11:31,710 --> 00:11:33,060 You really have to experience 212 00:11:33,060 --> 00:11:34,433 the sweet aromatic herbs. 213 00:11:36,730 --> 00:11:39,300 This is great cheese. 214 00:11:39,300 --> 00:11:40,873 Lets try another one. 215 00:11:43,380 --> 00:11:45,010 When Sime comes to Zagreb 216 00:11:45,010 --> 00:11:48,433 he always brings a selection of fresh island cheeses. 217 00:11:49,410 --> 00:11:53,250 But what most of the regular market customers are after 218 00:11:53,250 --> 00:11:57,073 is the legendary international award-winning paski sir. 219 00:12:05,418 --> 00:12:07,940 The indoor market under the main square 220 00:12:07,940 --> 00:12:11,130 is home to delicatessens, fresh pasta salads, 221 00:12:11,130 --> 00:12:13,490 bakeries and dairy producers. 222 00:12:13,490 --> 00:12:14,323 And here, 223 00:12:14,323 --> 00:12:17,600 you'll also find another famous Croatian specialty, 224 00:12:17,600 --> 00:12:19,000 cured meats. 225 00:12:19,000 --> 00:12:21,823 The stalls offer an amazing variety. 226 00:12:23,788 --> 00:12:26,380 From the east, comes Slavonian ham 227 00:12:26,380 --> 00:12:28,690 while Istrian prsut is produced 228 00:12:28,690 --> 00:12:30,750 in the region bordering Italy. 229 00:12:30,750 --> 00:12:33,830 The bacon is a specialty from the southern province 230 00:12:33,830 --> 00:12:35,550 of Dalmatia. 231 00:12:35,550 --> 00:12:37,140 I'll have a small piece of that one. 232 00:12:37,140 --> 00:12:37,973 Yes please. 233 00:12:45,030 --> 00:12:47,700 Kulen sausages are a famous type of salami 234 00:12:47,700 --> 00:12:48,880 from Slavonia 235 00:12:48,880 --> 00:12:51,173 and are one of the stall's bestsellers. 236 00:12:53,120 --> 00:12:54,750 Genuine kulen are made only 237 00:12:54,750 --> 00:12:57,140 from authentic Slavonian black pigs 238 00:12:57,140 --> 00:13:00,603 which much only be fed on grain, pumpkins and clover. 239 00:13:02,860 --> 00:13:05,090 The secret to a perfect kulen sausage 240 00:13:05,090 --> 00:13:07,580 lies in the drying and smoking. 241 00:13:07,580 --> 00:13:08,930 When done by the rules, 242 00:13:08,930 --> 00:13:11,457 it will keep for a long time before going off. 243 00:13:18,720 --> 00:13:19,960 Unlike the cured meats 244 00:13:19,960 --> 00:13:21,720 which are eaten all year round, 245 00:13:21,720 --> 00:13:24,300 the turkey season is very short. 246 00:13:24,300 --> 00:13:26,100 Authentic Zagorje turkeys 247 00:13:26,100 --> 00:13:28,813 only go on sale towards the end of November. 248 00:13:32,680 --> 00:13:37,680 (bright music) (turkeys squawking) 249 00:13:54,070 --> 00:13:56,580 Just a few kilometers north of Zagreb 250 00:13:56,580 --> 00:13:59,763 lie the beautiful undulating Zagorje Hills. 251 00:14:04,820 --> 00:14:06,310 Although close to the city, 252 00:14:06,310 --> 00:14:07,910 the region still maintains 253 00:14:07,910 --> 00:14:10,070 the traditional ways of agriculture 254 00:14:10,070 --> 00:14:14,160 and rearing livestock on small family run farms. 255 00:14:14,160 --> 00:14:17,360 Large tractors and machinery are rarely seen here. 256 00:14:17,360 --> 00:14:18,870 The fields and pastures 257 00:14:18,870 --> 00:14:20,710 are farmed in much the same way 258 00:14:20,710 --> 00:14:22,983 as they have been for generations. 259 00:14:28,377 --> 00:14:30,940 10 years ago, Boris Vrhovski 260 00:14:30,940 --> 00:14:33,740 decided to focus the family business on raising turkeys. 261 00:14:36,011 --> 00:14:39,110 (whistling) 262 00:14:39,110 --> 00:14:43,027 (speaking in foreign language) 263 00:14:45,130 --> 00:14:46,043 In the old days, 264 00:14:46,043 --> 00:14:48,780 every farm had its own turkey flock. 265 00:14:48,780 --> 00:14:51,600 We thought why not breed them commercially? 266 00:14:51,600 --> 00:14:54,223 That way we can really promote the Zagorje turkey. 267 00:14:55,434 --> 00:14:59,832 (speaking in foreign language) 268 00:14:59,832 --> 00:15:03,060 (turkeys squawking) 269 00:15:03,060 --> 00:15:04,230 Boris is determined 270 00:15:04,230 --> 00:15:06,620 to maintain 500 years of tradition 271 00:15:06,620 --> 00:15:08,200 by resisting the modern demand 272 00:15:08,200 --> 00:15:10,123 for turkeys all the year round. 273 00:15:11,304 --> 00:15:14,380 (turkeys squawking) 274 00:15:14,380 --> 00:15:15,900 Turkeys arrived in Zagorje 275 00:15:15,900 --> 00:15:18,055 soon after the discovery of America 276 00:15:18,055 --> 00:15:21,090 but their relative isolation over the centuries 277 00:15:21,090 --> 00:15:24,003 has seen the evolution of a unique regional breed. 278 00:15:27,154 --> 00:15:30,670 (speaking in foreign language) 279 00:15:30,670 --> 00:15:32,969 Zagorje turkeys are really healthy birds 280 00:15:32,969 --> 00:15:36,633 when they're allowed to live in green open pastures. 281 00:15:39,520 --> 00:15:42,660 I mainly feed them on homegrown corn 282 00:15:42,660 --> 00:15:45,539 and they spend the day running around the hills 283 00:15:45,539 --> 00:15:48,223 which gives them good, solid muscles. 284 00:15:53,930 --> 00:15:55,950 They're really low in cholesterol, 285 00:15:55,950 --> 00:15:57,743 absolutely full of protein 286 00:15:57,743 --> 00:16:00,199 and they taste wonderful. 287 00:16:00,199 --> 00:16:04,116 (speaking in foreign language) 288 00:16:17,459 --> 00:16:20,376 I treat each bird as an individual. 289 00:16:23,910 --> 00:16:27,480 They're raised naturally and in rhythm with the seasons, 290 00:16:27,480 --> 00:16:29,030 the way they always have been. 291 00:16:29,933 --> 00:16:33,850 (speaking in foreign language) 292 00:16:35,256 --> 00:16:38,256 (turkeys squawking) 293 00:16:48,240 --> 00:16:49,090 Enjoy your treat. 294 00:16:52,243 --> 00:16:54,070 Zagorje turkeys are smaller 295 00:16:54,070 --> 00:16:55,650 and need much more care. 296 00:16:55,650 --> 00:16:58,870 The chicks especially need protection from cold and snow 297 00:16:58,870 --> 00:17:02,053 before they're released to roam freely around the hills. 298 00:17:04,779 --> 00:17:08,680 (speaking in foreign language) 299 00:17:08,680 --> 00:17:10,980 The experts tell us that each turkey 300 00:17:10,980 --> 00:17:14,973 needs a minimum of 25 square meters of open space. 301 00:17:17,738 --> 00:17:18,880 So it's up to us 302 00:17:18,880 --> 00:17:21,350 to make sure we give them all the room they need 303 00:17:21,350 --> 00:17:22,543 to grow up healthy. 304 00:17:35,560 --> 00:17:37,740 Boris wages a constant battle 305 00:17:37,740 --> 00:17:40,270 to keep his turkeys safe from predators. 306 00:17:40,270 --> 00:17:43,550 He ties red flags in the trees where they feed. 307 00:17:43,550 --> 00:17:46,693 It's an old trick but it always works. 308 00:17:51,890 --> 00:17:54,680 The Zagorje turkey enjoys European protected 309 00:17:54,680 --> 00:17:57,130 geographic indication status. 310 00:17:57,130 --> 00:18:00,020 It's traditionally only eaten at Christmas time, 311 00:18:00,020 --> 00:18:03,974 a custom Boris respects and is keen to maintain. 312 00:18:03,974 --> 00:18:06,557 (gentle music) 313 00:18:24,064 --> 00:18:27,690 There have been markets and fairs on this site since 1242 314 00:18:27,690 --> 00:18:30,530 when Zagreb was formed from two separate towns 315 00:18:30,530 --> 00:18:33,633 to become a royal free city of the kingdom of Hungary. 316 00:18:37,530 --> 00:18:38,670 The city flourished 317 00:18:38,670 --> 00:18:41,520 because of its position as an important trading hub 318 00:18:41,520 --> 00:18:44,183 between central Europe and the mediterranean. 319 00:18:45,590 --> 00:18:47,960 To mark the unification of the two towns, 320 00:18:47,960 --> 00:18:49,592 a common market was established 321 00:18:49,592 --> 00:18:51,423 to serve the new city. 322 00:18:53,170 --> 00:18:57,130 The first kunitsa came from the nearby village of Czestina 323 00:18:57,130 --> 00:18:59,453 along with their now famous red umbrellas. 324 00:19:02,831 --> 00:19:05,070 Mladen Ivic is in charge 325 00:19:05,070 --> 00:19:07,033 of the market store under the square. 326 00:19:08,077 --> 00:19:10,050 (speaking in foreign language) 327 00:19:10,050 --> 00:19:12,350 We've got room for 400 in here. 328 00:19:15,507 --> 00:19:17,930 Each day the kunitsa queue 329 00:19:17,930 --> 00:19:21,150 to rent an umbrella and a set of steel scales. 330 00:19:21,150 --> 00:19:23,982 It saves having to bring them from home. 331 00:19:23,982 --> 00:19:24,815 (speaking in foreign language) 332 00:19:24,815 --> 00:19:26,050 You want two? 333 00:19:26,050 --> 00:19:27,627 God bless you, see you. 334 00:19:31,457 --> 00:19:34,140 We've got more than 500 umbrellas 335 00:19:34,140 --> 00:19:35,853 and 200 weighing scales. 336 00:19:40,810 --> 00:19:41,813 It's very simple. 337 00:19:43,090 --> 00:19:45,863 You just fit it together and it works fine. 338 00:19:47,010 --> 00:19:49,693 But it doesn't work so well if any parts come lose. 339 00:19:54,870 --> 00:19:58,730 We open from about 6:30 to nine in the morning 340 00:19:58,730 --> 00:20:01,360 to hire out the umbrellas and scales 341 00:20:01,360 --> 00:20:03,660 and they bring the back at the end of the day. 342 00:20:04,650 --> 00:20:05,640 It depends on the weather 343 00:20:05,640 --> 00:20:07,113 as to how busy we are. 344 00:20:10,052 --> 00:20:13,506 Virtually every one uses the traditional scales 345 00:20:13,506 --> 00:20:16,940 even though they're not as precise as the new ones. 346 00:20:16,940 --> 00:20:19,230 The kunitsa always round up the weight 347 00:20:19,230 --> 00:20:20,853 to keep their customers happy. 348 00:20:24,360 --> 00:20:26,550 The scales and the red umbrellas 349 00:20:26,550 --> 00:20:29,200 have come to symbolize the market. 350 00:20:29,200 --> 00:20:31,733 They've been here from time immemorial. 351 00:20:39,840 --> 00:20:40,786 Mladen makes sure 352 00:20:40,786 --> 00:20:42,890 everything is in perfect order. 353 00:20:42,890 --> 00:20:46,043 It's his job to keep the market operation running smoothly. 354 00:20:51,088 --> 00:20:55,230 (speaking in foreign language) 355 00:20:55,230 --> 00:20:57,066 I spend the day with the stall holders 356 00:20:57,066 --> 00:20:59,791 chatting, joking, having a coffee. 357 00:20:59,791 --> 00:21:01,931 Everyone wants to talk to you. 358 00:21:01,931 --> 00:21:03,603 There's never a dull moment. 359 00:21:04,465 --> 00:21:05,910 (speaking in foreign language) 360 00:21:05,910 --> 00:21:06,743 Nejo, my friend. 361 00:21:08,054 --> 00:21:11,020 I have to know everyone's name. 362 00:21:11,020 --> 00:21:13,013 It took me a year to remember them all. 363 00:21:14,885 --> 00:21:16,550 This is our oldest vendor. 364 00:21:16,550 --> 00:21:19,743 She started, when was it, after the second world war, right? 365 00:21:21,220 --> 00:21:22,053 Yes. 366 00:21:26,230 --> 00:21:27,630 The colors at the market 367 00:21:27,630 --> 00:21:29,623 reflect the colors of the season. 368 00:21:30,506 --> 00:21:33,320 It's June and the last of the cherries 369 00:21:33,320 --> 00:21:36,270 make way for raspberries, blueberries 370 00:21:36,270 --> 00:21:38,380 and the distinctive petrovka pears 371 00:21:38,380 --> 00:21:41,133 which grow alongside the grapes in the vineyards. 372 00:21:45,870 --> 00:21:49,040 These rare pears are small and packed with flavor. 373 00:21:49,040 --> 00:21:51,680 Their appearance on the market around Saint Peter's Day 374 00:21:51,680 --> 00:21:54,149 signals the start of summer. 375 00:21:54,149 --> 00:21:57,066 (thunder clapping) 376 00:22:04,470 --> 00:22:08,000 The Croatian weather is nothing if not unpredictable 377 00:22:08,000 --> 00:22:10,353 and the parasols quickly revert to umbrellas. 378 00:22:27,690 --> 00:22:30,273 The summer downpours are heavy but short. 379 00:22:33,920 --> 00:22:36,660 It won't be long before the black clouds disappear 380 00:22:36,660 --> 00:22:39,743 and the sun shines on the Dolac market once more. 381 00:22:46,170 --> 00:22:49,880 There's a quiet revolution taking place under the umbrellas. 382 00:22:49,880 --> 00:22:52,110 The new generation of younger kunitsa 383 00:22:52,110 --> 00:22:54,980 still grow their own produce and bring it to market 384 00:22:54,980 --> 00:22:57,430 but they're also introducing new varieties 385 00:22:57,430 --> 00:22:59,213 of fruit and vegetables. 386 00:23:07,263 --> 00:23:10,730 Snjezana Polic's family farm is in Dalmatia 387 00:23:10,730 --> 00:23:12,350 where the land is fertile 388 00:23:12,350 --> 00:23:14,403 and the southern climate is gentle. 389 00:23:15,280 --> 00:23:16,860 Would you like some celery? 390 00:23:16,860 --> 00:23:18,250 Anything else? 391 00:23:18,250 --> 00:23:20,783 12 and four, that makes 16 kunas. 392 00:23:24,340 --> 00:23:26,920 My family have been farmers for generations 393 00:23:26,920 --> 00:23:30,173 and I've had a stall on the Dolac for about 20 years now. 394 00:23:32,160 --> 00:23:34,440 Dalmatia is still heavily influenced 395 00:23:34,440 --> 00:23:36,763 by its past as a Venetian republic. 396 00:23:37,640 --> 00:23:38,890 Snjezana grows vegetables 397 00:23:38,890 --> 00:23:41,640 more familiar in southern Mediterranean countries 398 00:23:41,640 --> 00:23:42,680 than in Croatia 399 00:23:43,760 --> 00:23:46,260 like these small and delicate zucchinis 400 00:23:46,260 --> 00:23:48,747 which are eaten complete with their flowers. 401 00:23:48,747 --> 00:23:50,780 You can stuff them with chilis. 402 00:23:50,780 --> 00:23:53,740 Just put them in water and they open up overnight. 403 00:23:53,740 --> 00:23:54,573 In the morning, 404 00:23:54,573 --> 00:23:56,760 fill them with cheese and fry them with butter. 405 00:23:56,760 --> 00:23:59,360 Even without cheese, they still taste fantastic. 406 00:23:59,360 --> 00:24:01,320 They're a real treat. 407 00:24:01,320 --> 00:24:02,430 They'll open up nicely, 408 00:24:02,430 --> 00:24:04,003 they're good quality zucchini. 409 00:24:06,680 --> 00:24:07,893 How many would you like? 410 00:24:11,960 --> 00:24:13,170 Another of Snjezana's 411 00:24:13,170 --> 00:24:14,970 early summer seasonal treats 412 00:24:14,970 --> 00:24:17,683 are juicy bright red watermelons. 413 00:24:22,265 --> 00:24:23,840 People can't wait for them 414 00:24:23,840 --> 00:24:24,990 and they're really pleased 415 00:24:24,990 --> 00:24:26,970 when the first watermelons finally arrive 416 00:24:26,970 --> 00:24:28,320 in June or July. 417 00:24:28,320 --> 00:24:29,860 It's a kind of a craze. 418 00:24:29,860 --> 00:24:32,100 Everyone wants their daily slice of melon 419 00:24:32,100 --> 00:24:33,340 because it's really healthy 420 00:24:33,340 --> 00:24:34,730 and has no calories. 421 00:24:34,730 --> 00:24:36,253 It's a real superfood. 422 00:24:40,470 --> 00:24:43,380 Watermelon is starting to be appreciated more. 423 00:24:43,380 --> 00:24:45,090 It's packed with nutrients 424 00:24:45,090 --> 00:24:47,500 including lycopene for a strong heart 425 00:24:47,500 --> 00:24:49,833 and citrulline for healthy kidneys. 426 00:24:56,450 --> 00:24:58,720 A few years ago, Znjezana Polic and her family 427 00:24:58,720 --> 00:25:02,340 decided to buy another piece of land closer to Zagreb. 428 00:25:02,340 --> 00:25:03,173 Here in the north, 429 00:25:03,173 --> 00:25:06,060 fruit and vegetables ripen later in the season 430 00:25:06,060 --> 00:25:09,150 which means she can carry on selling her own watermelons 431 00:25:09,150 --> 00:25:10,573 for a much longer time. 432 00:25:19,540 --> 00:25:20,373 They're great, 433 00:25:20,373 --> 00:25:23,153 thin rined, ripe and not too flowery. 434 00:25:25,011 --> 00:25:26,980 We think the northern watermelons 435 00:25:26,980 --> 00:25:28,803 are just as good, if not better. 436 00:25:30,002 --> 00:25:31,770 They're sweeter and juicier 437 00:25:31,770 --> 00:25:35,203 because they grow during the sunny days of July and August. 438 00:25:40,000 --> 00:25:41,493 This is the autumn price. 439 00:25:44,510 --> 00:25:47,620 Croatia is small but incredibly diverse 440 00:25:47,620 --> 00:25:49,520 and Snjezana takes full advantage 441 00:25:49,520 --> 00:25:52,373 of the different climatic conditions round the country. 442 00:25:55,530 --> 00:25:59,166 On her stall, you'll find an amazing display of watermelons 443 00:25:59,166 --> 00:26:02,464 next to autumn prunes, pomegranates, 444 00:26:02,464 --> 00:26:05,632 and these incredible purple peas. 445 00:26:05,632 --> 00:26:07,823 Not bad for a young kunitsa. 446 00:26:12,930 --> 00:26:14,040 Autumn draws in 447 00:26:14,040 --> 00:26:15,620 and the residents of Zagreb 448 00:26:15,620 --> 00:26:18,130 prepare for the cold months ahead. 449 00:26:18,130 --> 00:26:20,500 Croatia is a country of contrasts, 450 00:26:20,500 --> 00:26:23,290 warm summer beaches on the Adriatic coast 451 00:26:23,290 --> 00:26:26,273 and cold winters blowing in from eastern Europe. 452 00:26:31,646 --> 00:26:35,500 The Dolac fish market is a mecca for locals. 453 00:26:35,500 --> 00:26:38,900 The stalls are loaded with an amazing variety of seafood 454 00:26:38,900 --> 00:26:40,160 brought in from the hundreds 455 00:26:40,160 --> 00:26:42,433 of small Mediterranean fishing ports. 456 00:26:46,020 --> 00:26:47,800 Look, sardines and anchovies, 457 00:26:47,800 --> 00:26:48,980 they're really fresh. 458 00:26:48,980 --> 00:26:50,190 What would you like, madam? 459 00:26:50,190 --> 00:26:51,640 How much are the shrimps? 460 00:26:51,640 --> 00:26:54,683 These ones are 200, these are 150. 461 00:26:56,550 --> 00:26:59,750 I'll take half a kilo of these ones. 462 00:26:59,750 --> 00:27:01,910 23 year old Antonio Faflja 463 00:27:01,910 --> 00:27:03,980 comes from a fishing family. 464 00:27:03,980 --> 00:27:06,130 One day he's on the market in Zagreb, 465 00:27:06,130 --> 00:27:07,743 the next, he's out at sea. 466 00:27:10,820 --> 00:27:12,510 Most people come to Dolac 467 00:27:12,510 --> 00:27:13,713 to buy sardines. 468 00:27:15,070 --> 00:27:17,850 They're caught at night with drag nets 469 00:27:17,850 --> 00:27:20,400 and by morning, they're on sale here at the market. 470 00:27:28,127 --> 00:27:31,780 Croatians love the common local fish varieties 471 00:27:31,780 --> 00:27:34,570 and they flock to the market every day to buy them. 472 00:27:38,110 --> 00:27:39,810 Another favorite is hake 473 00:27:39,810 --> 00:27:41,803 which is best fished in the autumn. 474 00:27:44,534 --> 00:27:46,460 I'd like a kilo of hake. 475 00:27:46,460 --> 00:27:48,310 Why are there three different prices? 476 00:27:49,160 --> 00:27:50,980 This is the top grade, the biggest ones. 477 00:27:51,983 --> 00:27:53,263 This is medium. 478 00:27:54,790 --> 00:27:56,690 And this is smaller. 479 00:27:56,690 --> 00:27:58,313 It's better for frying in a pan. 480 00:28:00,110 --> 00:28:01,710 The only difference is the size. 481 00:28:03,710 --> 00:28:05,280 Are they all just as fresh? 482 00:28:05,280 --> 00:28:06,230 Yes. 483 00:28:08,060 --> 00:28:09,640 Hake is easy to prepare 484 00:28:09,640 --> 00:28:11,590 and can be cooked in several different ways, 485 00:28:11,590 --> 00:28:13,960 fried, grilled or baked. 486 00:28:13,960 --> 00:28:15,460 Older people especially like it 487 00:28:15,460 --> 00:28:18,723 because it's light, healthy and easily digestable. 488 00:28:21,182 --> 00:28:23,920 You can tell how fresh the hake is 489 00:28:23,920 --> 00:28:25,540 while you're cleaning it. 490 00:28:25,540 --> 00:28:27,023 If its belly is snow white, 491 00:28:27,023 --> 00:28:28,843 you can be sure it's really fresh. 492 00:28:34,620 --> 00:28:36,010 When the stall is quiet, 493 00:28:36,010 --> 00:28:39,210 Antonio will also clean the fish for his customers, 494 00:28:39,210 --> 00:28:41,303 especially the more unusual ones. 495 00:28:43,340 --> 00:28:45,050 Tourists are often surprised 496 00:28:45,050 --> 00:28:47,520 by the variety and quantity of fish on offer 497 00:28:47,520 --> 00:28:48,863 in the busy market. 498 00:29:00,240 --> 00:29:03,500 Zagreb is only 150 kilometers from the coast 499 00:29:03,500 --> 00:29:07,020 where Croatia faces Italy across the Adriatic Sea 500 00:29:07,020 --> 00:29:10,563 dotted with its more than 1,200 islands and islets. 501 00:29:13,617 --> 00:29:16,750 The sea still rules the lives of the islanders, 502 00:29:16,750 --> 00:29:18,783 just as it has for thousands of years. 503 00:29:23,410 --> 00:29:24,243 Wala! 504 00:29:29,253 --> 00:29:32,250 I come from a fishing family. 505 00:29:32,250 --> 00:29:33,943 I started when I was very young. 506 00:29:34,850 --> 00:29:38,233 Now I can't imagine life without a boat and without fishing. 507 00:29:45,110 --> 00:29:47,000 After a few days of bad weather, 508 00:29:47,000 --> 00:29:48,150 the sun shines once more 509 00:29:48,150 --> 00:29:50,120 on the island of Rab. 510 00:29:50,120 --> 00:29:51,710 It might be cold in Zagreb 511 00:29:51,710 --> 00:29:54,313 but here on the coast, it's mild and sunny. 512 00:30:04,850 --> 00:30:06,150 My father and I only fish 513 00:30:06,150 --> 00:30:08,250 in the waters around Rab. 514 00:30:08,250 --> 00:30:12,290 And usually find the best quality hake in Karana Bay. 515 00:30:12,290 --> 00:30:13,123 Some people say 516 00:30:13,123 --> 00:30:16,130 it's because of the particular water quality there. 517 00:30:16,130 --> 00:30:18,490 It might be to do with the salinity of the water 518 00:30:18,490 --> 00:30:20,443 or it might be something else. 519 00:30:23,247 --> 00:30:24,490 Antonio's father 520 00:30:24,490 --> 00:30:27,590 is passing a lifetime's knowledge onto his son, 521 00:30:27,590 --> 00:30:29,910 facing the challenges of being a fisherman 522 00:30:29,910 --> 00:30:31,533 and staying safe at sea. 523 00:30:32,509 --> 00:30:35,092 (bright music) 524 00:30:48,409 --> 00:30:49,290 You have to tie it up tightly 525 00:30:49,290 --> 00:30:50,700 so the fish can't get out. 526 00:30:57,298 --> 00:30:59,170 The weather is set fair 527 00:30:59,170 --> 00:31:01,180 for a good day's hake fishing 528 00:31:01,180 --> 00:31:02,280 but you never know, 529 00:31:02,280 --> 00:31:04,533 fishing is always unpredictable. 530 00:31:08,110 --> 00:31:09,340 On a beautiful sunny day 531 00:31:09,340 --> 00:31:12,300 I wouldn't swap this job for anything. 532 00:31:12,300 --> 00:31:15,040 You've got everything you could possibly want 533 00:31:15,040 --> 00:31:16,190 right here on the boat. 534 00:31:17,310 --> 00:31:19,870 But on other days, the southerly wind is so strong 535 00:31:19,870 --> 00:31:21,973 it blows a glass of water off the table. 536 00:31:23,040 --> 00:31:24,340 Then it's not so much fun. 537 00:31:25,320 --> 00:31:27,205 But you still have to go fishing 538 00:31:27,205 --> 00:31:29,483 so you've got something to sell at the Dolac. 539 00:31:38,260 --> 00:31:40,410 Antonio has already promised his regulars 540 00:31:40,410 --> 00:31:42,923 he'll be back with some top quality hake. 541 00:31:45,086 --> 00:31:47,630 This is good, the seagulls are here, 542 00:31:47,630 --> 00:31:48,780 dad, the fish are here. 543 00:31:50,360 --> 00:31:53,023 Come on, let's fish. 544 00:31:57,730 --> 00:32:00,170 Hake are deep sea predator fish. 545 00:32:00,170 --> 00:32:02,900 They live around 350 meters deep 546 00:32:02,900 --> 00:32:05,180 but at night, they come into shallow water 547 00:32:05,180 --> 00:32:06,570 to feed on shellfish, 548 00:32:06,570 --> 00:32:09,363 smaller species and even each other. 549 00:32:15,714 --> 00:32:16,670 The best time 550 00:32:16,670 --> 00:32:19,200 to find big shoals of hake around Rab 551 00:32:19,200 --> 00:32:20,880 is between the beginning of October 552 00:32:20,880 --> 00:32:22,783 and the end of January. 553 00:32:24,230 --> 00:32:25,859 They're here all year round 554 00:32:25,859 --> 00:32:28,083 but that's when you get the big catches. 555 00:32:31,040 --> 00:32:33,633 And who'll take care of the sea if we don't? 556 00:32:38,360 --> 00:32:39,410 Once on the boat, 557 00:32:39,410 --> 00:32:42,363 the haul is sorted and graded for tomorrow's market. 558 00:32:43,460 --> 00:32:46,493 It's time for Antonio to see what the catch is worth. 559 00:32:48,589 --> 00:32:50,420 This is a big one. 560 00:32:50,420 --> 00:32:52,123 It'll sell for 65 kunas. 561 00:32:53,280 --> 00:32:54,783 This one's a bit smaller. 562 00:32:54,783 --> 00:32:56,153 It's worth 50 kunas. 563 00:33:06,010 --> 00:33:08,200 The long night's fishing is over. 564 00:33:08,200 --> 00:33:11,113 Time for Antonio and his father to head for home. 565 00:33:26,070 --> 00:33:29,320 Although most of the produce in the Dolac is home grown, 566 00:33:29,320 --> 00:33:32,200 some shoppers particularly want organic food 567 00:33:32,200 --> 00:33:35,063 which is grown according to strict regulations. 568 00:33:36,980 --> 00:33:39,830 The Sever family have two organic food stalls 569 00:33:39,830 --> 00:33:41,690 at the Dolac market. 570 00:33:41,690 --> 00:33:43,660 They started farming some years back 571 00:33:43,660 --> 00:33:46,763 and have always maintained a natural healthy approach. 572 00:33:47,649 --> 00:33:48,482 Here you are. 573 00:33:48,482 --> 00:33:49,315 Thanks a lot. 574 00:33:49,315 --> 00:33:50,300 There's cauliflower, tomatoes, 575 00:33:50,300 --> 00:33:51,840 pindur, peaches. 576 00:33:51,840 --> 00:33:52,673 No broccoli? 577 00:33:52,673 --> 00:33:53,793 No, it's all gone. 578 00:33:58,797 --> 00:34:01,790 (bright music) 579 00:34:01,790 --> 00:34:04,180 Mario Sever and his wife Ivka 580 00:34:04,180 --> 00:34:07,283 got into the fruit and vegetable business by accident. 581 00:34:10,679 --> 00:34:13,620 My mother had some land near Barschden 582 00:34:13,620 --> 00:34:14,970 where she was born 583 00:34:14,970 --> 00:34:17,490 and we used it to grow fruit and vegetables 584 00:34:17,490 --> 00:34:18,573 just for ourselves. 585 00:34:19,470 --> 00:34:21,040 We wanted to know what we were eating 586 00:34:21,040 --> 00:34:22,563 and where it came from. 587 00:34:23,790 --> 00:34:25,220 So we grew everything organically 588 00:34:25,220 --> 00:34:28,653 and didn't use any chemical pesticides or fertilizers. 589 00:34:32,910 --> 00:34:34,980 Some years, the harvest was so good 590 00:34:34,980 --> 00:34:36,530 they had more than they could eat, 591 00:34:36,530 --> 00:34:39,543 so they started giving it away to friends and family. 592 00:34:42,108 --> 00:34:45,080 Then we lost our jobs in 2000. 593 00:34:45,080 --> 00:34:47,320 We turned our hobby into a business. 594 00:34:47,320 --> 00:34:50,063 Since then, we've been full time organic farmers. 595 00:34:52,750 --> 00:34:54,880 Ever since, Mario and Ivka 596 00:34:54,880 --> 00:34:57,253 have made a living from their great passion. 597 00:35:01,430 --> 00:35:02,480 A year later, 598 00:35:02,480 --> 00:35:05,330 we were certified by French organic inspectors 599 00:35:05,330 --> 00:35:07,000 under international rules 600 00:35:07,000 --> 00:35:09,443 which are recognized by all EU countries. 601 00:35:12,410 --> 00:35:15,700 The next year, Croatia introduced a legally binding register 602 00:35:15,700 --> 00:35:18,590 and we became the first certified organic farm 603 00:35:18,590 --> 00:35:19,423 in the country. 604 00:35:26,540 --> 00:35:27,820 Ivka also likes cooking 605 00:35:27,820 --> 00:35:30,810 and she's rediscovered an old recipe of her grandmother's 606 00:35:30,810 --> 00:35:32,323 for a sauce called pindur. 607 00:35:33,804 --> 00:35:36,800 (speaking in foreign language) 608 00:35:36,800 --> 00:35:38,930 The A to Z of pindur ingredients 609 00:35:38,930 --> 00:35:39,993 goes like this, 610 00:35:41,070 --> 00:35:46,070 oil, salt, apple vinegar, tomatoes, paprika, 611 00:35:46,360 --> 00:35:49,093 hot paprika, garlic and parsley. 612 00:35:51,583 --> 00:35:54,250 Everything is grown on our farm. 613 00:35:58,460 --> 00:35:59,930 Pindur was originally made 614 00:35:59,930 --> 00:36:01,830 so farmers could get a taste of summer 615 00:36:01,830 --> 00:36:03,923 during the cold months of winter. 616 00:36:10,310 --> 00:36:12,390 Ivka and Mario's pindur 617 00:36:12,390 --> 00:36:14,590 has become one of their top sellers. 618 00:36:14,590 --> 00:36:17,623 It's famous throughout the market and beyond. 619 00:36:19,980 --> 00:36:20,813 So you grow 620 00:36:20,813 --> 00:36:23,170 all the ingredients yourself, right? 621 00:36:23,170 --> 00:36:24,870 Yes, we grow all the peppers, 622 00:36:24,870 --> 00:36:27,463 the tomatoes, the parsley and the garlic. 623 00:36:28,390 --> 00:36:30,320 Everything we grow is organic. 624 00:36:30,320 --> 00:36:31,370 Great. 625 00:36:32,260 --> 00:36:34,130 Pindur is just one of the preserves 626 00:36:34,130 --> 00:36:35,380 sold on the stall. 627 00:36:35,380 --> 00:36:38,680 There's sauerkraut, cucumbers pickled in apple vinegar 628 00:36:38,680 --> 00:36:41,060 and a pepper sauce called ajvar. 629 00:36:41,060 --> 00:36:43,140 Shoppers often end up with a box full 630 00:36:43,140 --> 00:36:46,790 of both fresh and pickled produce. 631 00:36:46,790 --> 00:36:48,290 How much are the little ones? 632 00:36:48,290 --> 00:36:49,190 20. 633 00:36:52,943 --> 00:36:53,776 Thank you. 634 00:36:58,533 --> 00:37:00,080 Ivka and Mario's story 635 00:37:00,080 --> 00:37:01,780 proves there's money to be made 636 00:37:01,780 --> 00:37:05,063 from consumers increasing demand for organic food. 637 00:37:08,270 --> 00:37:10,478 It's beautiful to see your crops grow 638 00:37:10,478 --> 00:37:11,733 day by day. 639 00:37:13,770 --> 00:37:16,320 We like having personal contact with our customers. 640 00:37:17,260 --> 00:37:19,660 We need to know what they think of our products. 641 00:37:22,234 --> 00:37:23,067 Is this okay? 642 00:37:25,720 --> 00:37:26,563 How many, three? 643 00:37:27,610 --> 00:37:28,443 Anything else? 644 00:37:31,490 --> 00:37:33,000 Their products are so good 645 00:37:33,000 --> 00:37:34,890 and their business is so successful, 646 00:37:34,890 --> 00:37:37,450 they were named best family farmers of the year 647 00:37:37,450 --> 00:37:39,913 by Croatia's minister of agriculture. 648 00:37:41,101 --> 00:37:43,684 (bright music) 649 00:38:05,190 --> 00:38:06,120 Get some mushrooms. 650 00:38:06,120 --> 00:38:07,830 We've only got one tray left. 651 00:38:07,830 --> 00:38:09,363 And some sprouts as well. 652 00:38:11,310 --> 00:38:12,750 What about cakes? 653 00:38:12,750 --> 00:38:13,750 Strawberries? 654 00:38:13,750 --> 00:38:14,780 Raspberries. 655 00:38:14,780 --> 00:38:16,930 And raspberries for dessert. 656 00:38:19,570 --> 00:38:22,150 Anna Ugarkovic is a renowned chef 657 00:38:22,150 --> 00:38:23,840 running a laid back restaurant 658 00:38:23,840 --> 00:38:26,240 in the very heart of Zagreb. 659 00:38:26,240 --> 00:38:28,720 Here, taste is the only rule. 660 00:38:28,720 --> 00:38:30,900 Forget fancy fine dining. 661 00:38:30,900 --> 00:38:35,233 Anna only cooks top quality simple local food. 662 00:38:39,630 --> 00:38:41,857 I come to the market every day. 663 00:38:43,106 --> 00:38:45,910 I do have my regular suppliers 664 00:38:45,910 --> 00:38:47,020 but I like to shop around 665 00:38:47,020 --> 00:38:50,243 to get the best quality and value on that day. 666 00:38:52,810 --> 00:38:53,643 Hello. 667 00:38:54,946 --> 00:38:57,948 I'll just take a couple of these chili peppers. 668 00:38:57,948 --> 00:39:01,865 (speaking in foreign language) 669 00:39:02,943 --> 00:39:04,110 Three will do. 670 00:39:13,180 --> 00:39:15,310 As well as stocking up for the kitchen, 671 00:39:15,310 --> 00:39:17,460 Anna sees what's available at the market 672 00:39:17,460 --> 00:39:20,150 before deciding that day's menu. 673 00:39:20,150 --> 00:39:23,180 She gets inspiration from whatever is in season 674 00:39:23,180 --> 00:39:26,390 and often adapts her dishes or invents new ones 675 00:39:26,390 --> 00:39:28,213 depending on what she finds. 676 00:39:31,480 --> 00:39:32,313 I'm really happy 677 00:39:32,313 --> 00:39:33,803 when I find the best produce. 678 00:39:35,464 --> 00:39:38,272 If it's good quality, it's hard to ruin it 679 00:39:38,272 --> 00:39:39,883 though not impossible. 680 00:39:45,867 --> 00:39:47,860 These look really nice. 681 00:39:47,860 --> 00:39:49,540 How many times a year do you get them? 682 00:39:49,540 --> 00:39:50,373 Hardly ever, 683 00:39:50,373 --> 00:39:51,650 usually in the autumn. 684 00:39:51,650 --> 00:39:53,500 They're not available all year round. 685 00:39:56,320 --> 00:39:57,963 Anna, that's two kilos, 20. 686 00:40:10,886 --> 00:40:13,400 Anna used to present food programs 687 00:40:13,400 --> 00:40:14,830 on national television 688 00:40:14,830 --> 00:40:18,053 but now she sees cooking as a reward in itself. 689 00:40:22,490 --> 00:40:24,200 Back in her restaurant kitchen, 690 00:40:24,200 --> 00:40:25,680 Anna tries out the dish 691 00:40:25,680 --> 00:40:28,223 she will be serving to her customers tonight. 692 00:40:30,411 --> 00:40:31,960 You can tell these shrimps 693 00:40:31,960 --> 00:40:33,343 are from Lake Prokljan. 694 00:40:34,656 --> 00:40:37,300 They're not pink like the regular ones, 695 00:40:37,300 --> 00:40:39,363 more gray or brown with tiger stripes. 696 00:40:42,753 --> 00:40:45,950 Lake Prokljan shrimp are a rare delicacy 697 00:40:45,950 --> 00:40:47,430 which can easily be ruined 698 00:40:47,430 --> 00:40:49,313 by overcomplicated cooking. 699 00:40:50,640 --> 00:40:54,128 Anna makes a pesto made from garlic, toasted bread crumbs, 700 00:40:54,128 --> 00:40:56,913 thyme, pine nuts and hot paprika. 701 00:41:04,534 --> 00:41:06,480 Mmm, super. 702 00:41:06,480 --> 00:41:09,360 Next, she fries it and adds the shrimp. 703 00:41:09,360 --> 00:41:11,536 (speaking in foreign language) 704 00:41:11,536 --> 00:41:13,170 Croatia doesn't have many estuaries. 705 00:41:13,170 --> 00:41:14,770 So these shrimps are quite rare. 706 00:41:17,600 --> 00:41:18,860 When you do get them, 707 00:41:18,860 --> 00:41:20,360 it's something pretty special. 708 00:41:24,150 --> 00:41:26,233 Lake Prokljan shrimps are unusual. 709 00:41:28,417 --> 00:41:30,303 They live in brackish water. 710 00:41:33,480 --> 00:41:35,532 It's not as salty as the sea 711 00:41:35,532 --> 00:41:37,713 and gives them a sweeter taste. 712 00:41:39,670 --> 00:41:41,590 She doesn't wash them with fresh water. 713 00:41:41,590 --> 00:41:44,770 It's important they retain their salty taste. 714 00:41:44,770 --> 00:41:45,700 Anna can't wait 715 00:41:45,700 --> 00:41:48,800 to try out her unexpected find on her customers 716 00:41:48,800 --> 00:41:50,143 and see their reaction. 717 00:41:51,097 --> 00:41:52,830 (speaking in foreign language) 718 00:41:52,830 --> 00:41:54,180 We don't often serve food 719 00:41:54,180 --> 00:41:55,830 that you can eat with your hands. 720 00:41:58,371 --> 00:42:01,550 But sometimes I want to give people the experience 721 00:42:01,550 --> 00:42:02,800 of licking their fingers. 722 00:42:06,710 --> 00:42:07,543 Anna's confident 723 00:42:07,543 --> 00:42:09,490 that her customers will enjoy the shrimp 724 00:42:09,490 --> 00:42:10,693 as much as she did. 725 00:42:15,182 --> 00:42:19,682 Oh, these are really something special. 726 00:42:23,251 --> 00:42:25,594 (giggles) 727 00:42:25,594 --> 00:42:28,177 (bright music) 728 00:42:31,620 --> 00:42:33,856 Every morning six days a week, 729 00:42:33,856 --> 00:42:36,590 Brankica Solina picks fresh vegetables 730 00:42:36,590 --> 00:42:38,037 to sell at the Dolac. 731 00:42:42,388 --> 00:42:44,770 As usual, her daughter helps out 732 00:42:44,770 --> 00:42:48,513 before going on to her math studies at the university. 733 00:42:48,513 --> 00:42:51,096 (bright music) 734 00:42:55,971 --> 00:42:58,380 Brankica and a few of the other stall holders 735 00:42:58,380 --> 00:43:00,380 are trying to introduce their customers 736 00:43:00,380 --> 00:43:02,330 to different experiences. 737 00:43:02,330 --> 00:43:05,743 But it's a challenge to get people to try new produce. 738 00:43:11,420 --> 00:43:13,280 She still keeps up the family business 739 00:43:13,280 --> 00:43:15,320 of farming traditional products 740 00:43:15,320 --> 00:43:17,023 but she's just bought a display fridge 741 00:43:17,023 --> 00:43:19,240 and it's the first stall on the market 742 00:43:19,240 --> 00:43:21,863 to sell bean sprouts and microgreens. 743 00:43:31,610 --> 00:43:33,250 You grow your own? 744 00:43:33,250 --> 00:43:34,370 Everything you see here 745 00:43:34,370 --> 00:43:35,470 is from my own garden. 746 00:43:37,325 --> 00:43:38,930 Many customers 747 00:43:38,930 --> 00:43:40,960 have rather conservative tastes 748 00:43:40,960 --> 00:43:42,700 and stick to what they know 749 00:43:42,700 --> 00:43:44,400 but once they've tried the bean sprouts 750 00:43:44,400 --> 00:43:45,850 and other new produce, 751 00:43:45,850 --> 00:43:47,083 they come back for more. 752 00:43:48,220 --> 00:43:50,693 Broccoli, no, it's all gone. 753 00:43:54,090 --> 00:43:55,520 We only had a few. 754 00:43:55,520 --> 00:43:58,420 We've only got crass, water greens and field mustard left. 755 00:44:00,900 --> 00:44:02,960 The fridge and other essential equipment 756 00:44:02,960 --> 00:44:04,940 was a big outlay for Brankica 757 00:44:04,940 --> 00:44:08,223 but she's confident in a good return from her investment. 758 00:44:11,090 --> 00:44:13,250 Sprouts are incredibly good for you. 759 00:44:13,250 --> 00:44:14,387 People come back for more 760 00:44:14,387 --> 00:44:17,137 because they eat them and start to feel really healthy. 761 00:44:21,355 --> 00:44:23,660 They can be eaten raw in salads. 762 00:44:23,660 --> 00:44:25,360 Some people add them to smoothies. 763 00:44:27,940 --> 00:44:30,910 People, say one cup of alfalfa sprouts 764 00:44:30,910 --> 00:44:34,053 has four times the vitamin C of a glass of orange juice. 765 00:44:43,922 --> 00:44:45,440 Brankica's day on the market ends 766 00:44:45,440 --> 00:44:47,140 when her husband picks her up 767 00:44:47,140 --> 00:44:48,370 but as soon as she's home, 768 00:44:48,370 --> 00:44:51,113 it's time to prepare the sprouts for tomorrow. 769 00:44:52,898 --> 00:44:53,948 Great. 770 00:44:56,010 --> 00:44:57,847 My ride's here, I'm off. 771 00:45:16,780 --> 00:45:18,830 Seven and a half years ago 772 00:45:18,830 --> 00:45:21,320 we went with a friend to a market in Leon 773 00:45:21,320 --> 00:45:23,720 and we saw the sprouts there for the first time. 774 00:45:24,930 --> 00:45:27,070 You couldn't get them anywhere in Croatia then 775 00:45:27,070 --> 00:45:28,543 so we started growing them. 776 00:45:32,380 --> 00:45:34,653 And now we cultivate around 15 varieties. 777 00:45:38,568 --> 00:45:39,401 Over the years, 778 00:45:39,401 --> 00:45:40,910 people have gradually got used to them 779 00:45:40,910 --> 00:45:42,610 and they are increasingly popular. 780 00:45:43,850 --> 00:45:46,340 They don't use any compost or fertilizers 781 00:45:46,340 --> 00:45:48,550 on their bean sprouts and microgreens 782 00:45:48,550 --> 00:45:50,310 but they need washing and packaging 783 00:45:50,310 --> 00:45:51,503 before they're sold. 784 00:45:54,440 --> 00:45:56,940 The variety is quite astonishing. 785 00:45:56,940 --> 00:45:58,670 Pungent horseradish, 786 00:45:58,670 --> 00:46:02,530 subtly flavored daikon and fiery field mustard. 787 00:46:02,530 --> 00:46:05,440 Bittersweet fenugreek and fresh garlic sprouts 788 00:46:05,440 --> 00:46:07,538 with their intense, concentrated taste 789 00:46:07,538 --> 00:46:09,187 and no cooking needed 790 00:46:09,187 --> 00:46:11,133 as they're best eaten raw. 791 00:46:13,520 --> 00:46:15,440 Sprouts contain all the goodness 792 00:46:15,440 --> 00:46:17,410 of a fully grown plant. 793 00:46:17,410 --> 00:46:19,333 They're one of nature's miracles. 794 00:46:23,640 --> 00:46:28,220 (speaking in foreign language) 795 00:46:28,220 --> 00:46:29,303 Give me some. 796 00:46:30,540 --> 00:46:31,373 There you are. 797 00:46:31,373 --> 00:46:34,133 These garlic sprouts make a perfect topping. 798 00:46:36,539 --> 00:46:39,644 Sprouts grow all year round, that's important 799 00:46:39,644 --> 00:46:41,250 because we can sell them 800 00:46:41,250 --> 00:46:43,203 even when we have no other vegetables. 801 00:46:45,620 --> 00:46:46,703 Cheese, Ada? 802 00:46:46,703 --> 00:46:48,110 No thanks. 803 00:46:48,110 --> 00:46:49,423 You sure? 804 00:46:49,423 --> 00:46:52,006 (bright music) 805 00:47:04,260 --> 00:47:06,050 Architect Niko Gamulin 806 00:47:06,050 --> 00:47:08,930 has spent a lifetime shopping at the market. 807 00:47:08,930 --> 00:47:11,653 He knows every stall and every vendor. 808 00:47:14,270 --> 00:47:15,103 Hello. 809 00:47:15,103 --> 00:47:17,013 I'd like some of your beautiful greens. 810 00:47:19,310 --> 00:47:22,110 Some of this and this? 811 00:47:22,110 --> 00:47:23,560 Is it parsley? 812 00:47:25,492 --> 00:47:28,020 You have to set aside at least an hour 813 00:47:28,020 --> 00:47:29,270 to walk around the market 814 00:47:31,388 --> 00:47:33,600 to check out the best produce 815 00:47:33,600 --> 00:47:34,650 and do your shopping. 816 00:47:38,280 --> 00:47:41,613 There you go, super soup. 817 00:47:43,240 --> 00:47:45,150 Maybe you'll spot something really tasty 818 00:47:45,150 --> 00:47:46,770 and you'll buy it, 819 00:47:46,770 --> 00:47:48,140 even if you don't need it, 820 00:47:48,140 --> 00:47:49,240 it's kind of a ritual. 821 00:47:52,820 --> 00:47:55,840 Niko is a big fan of slow shopping. 822 00:47:55,840 --> 00:47:56,940 Once in the Dolac, 823 00:47:56,940 --> 00:47:59,893 he immerses himself in the whole sensory experience. 824 00:48:03,270 --> 00:48:05,668 That's extraordinary. 825 00:48:05,668 --> 00:48:08,357 They're better with some fat on, aren't they? 826 00:48:12,460 --> 00:48:13,293 How are you? 827 00:48:13,293 --> 00:48:14,851 Fine, and you? 828 00:48:14,851 --> 00:48:16,078 Great. 829 00:48:16,078 --> 00:48:17,763 I'd like some white cheese. 830 00:48:19,910 --> 00:48:21,720 Sliced? 831 00:48:21,720 --> 00:48:23,550 No, I've got a container here 832 00:48:23,550 --> 00:48:25,840 and some cream as well, I love your cream. 833 00:48:25,840 --> 00:48:27,260 Here, try some. 834 00:48:27,260 --> 00:48:28,960 I love it when it's a bit yellow, 835 00:48:28,960 --> 00:48:30,810 not pure white. 836 00:48:30,810 --> 00:48:34,727 (speaking in foreign language) 837 00:48:36,920 --> 00:48:39,500 Tasting the cheese and cream before you buy it 838 00:48:39,500 --> 00:48:41,900 is an old Croatian custom. 839 00:48:41,900 --> 00:48:43,507 The kunitsas of the Dolac 840 00:48:43,507 --> 00:48:45,663 are happy to keep up the tradition. 841 00:48:49,850 --> 00:48:52,012 Two pieces of cheese please 842 00:48:52,012 --> 00:48:53,066 with some cream on top? 843 00:48:53,066 --> 00:48:56,520 Sure. 844 00:48:56,520 --> 00:48:57,920 It's beautiful. 845 00:48:57,920 --> 00:49:01,819 Dairy products have always sold well on the Dolac 846 00:49:01,819 --> 00:49:04,210 and people like the kunitsa who live further away 847 00:49:04,210 --> 00:49:05,663 like Krejetza or Zabok. 848 00:49:07,920 --> 00:49:10,310 Shoppers usually stick to their favorite stall 849 00:49:10,310 --> 00:49:12,690 even if another one has better produce. 850 00:49:12,690 --> 00:49:14,453 You develop a loyalty over time. 851 00:49:20,480 --> 00:49:23,200 Even though the market is constantly evolving, 852 00:49:23,200 --> 00:49:24,090 Niko is happy 853 00:49:24,090 --> 00:49:26,703 that it's still the heart and soul of the city. 854 00:49:29,930 --> 00:49:33,331 The market is a microcosm of society. 855 00:49:33,331 --> 00:49:36,700 You can tell what's happening in the wider world. 856 00:49:36,700 --> 00:49:38,697 Prices go up or down, 857 00:49:38,697 --> 00:49:41,520 people have more or less money to spend, 858 00:49:41,520 --> 00:49:43,870 shoppers are looking for bargains. 859 00:49:43,870 --> 00:49:45,660 You only have to come to the Dolac 860 00:49:45,660 --> 00:49:48,573 to understand how the economy is going. 861 00:49:56,410 --> 00:49:59,400 Niko has been a market regular for 50 years 862 00:49:59,400 --> 00:50:02,070 but he never ceases to be amazed by the stalls 863 00:50:02,070 --> 00:50:03,513 and the people behind them. 864 00:50:06,628 --> 00:50:08,300 Thank you very much. 865 00:50:08,300 --> 00:50:09,493 You're welcome. 866 00:50:12,088 --> 00:50:14,287 The market is unique. 867 00:50:14,287 --> 00:50:16,473 It can't be replaced by anything else. 868 00:50:17,320 --> 00:50:18,720 We have to be on our guard 869 00:50:18,720 --> 00:50:21,290 because whenever a market is moved 870 00:50:21,290 --> 00:50:23,948 to make way for a shiny new development, 871 00:50:23,948 --> 00:50:26,010 it's lost forever. 872 00:50:26,010 --> 00:50:27,490 Markets play a vital role 873 00:50:27,490 --> 00:50:29,866 in the lives of ordinary people. 874 00:50:29,866 --> 00:50:33,033 And once they're gone, they can't be replaced. 875 00:50:39,080 --> 00:50:41,773 Girls, these grapes are as sweet as honey. 876 00:50:45,200 --> 00:50:47,540 Developed over countless generations, 877 00:50:47,540 --> 00:50:50,500 the special relationship between vendors and buyers 878 00:50:50,500 --> 00:50:52,293 makes this market unique. 879 00:50:54,234 --> 00:50:55,870 Thanks to the kunitsa, 880 00:50:55,870 --> 00:50:58,430 the farmers, the fishermen and the cheesemakers, 881 00:50:58,430 --> 00:51:01,180 every day the Dolac brings the fresh taste 882 00:51:01,180 --> 00:51:05,025 of the Croatian countryside right into the city. 883 00:51:05,025 --> 00:51:07,608 (bright music) 884 00:51:57,252 --> 00:52:01,252 (speaking in foreign language) 63843

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