Would you like to inspect the original subtitles? These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated:
1
00:00:02,000 --> 00:00:03,000
{\an1}-Hi, I'm Rick Steves,
sailing beyond Europe this time.
2
00:00:04,000 --> 00:00:06,000
{\an1}We're on the Nile, exploring
3
00:00:06,000 --> 00:00:09,000
{\an1}the historic and cultural
wonders of Egypt.
4
00:00:09,000 --> 00:00:11,000
{\an1}Thanks for joining us.
5
00:00:11,000 --> 00:00:19,000
♪♪
6
00:00:19,000 --> 00:00:27,000
♪♪
7
00:00:27,000 --> 00:00:35,000
♪♪
8
00:00:35,000 --> 00:00:43,000
♪♪
9
00:00:43,000 --> 00:00:45,000
Egypt is essentially
a big desert,
10
00:00:45,000 --> 00:00:48,000
{\an1}with a lush green ribbon,
the Nile River valley,
11
00:00:48,000 --> 00:00:49,000
running right
through its middle.
12
00:00:49,000 --> 00:00:51,000
This is the Nile,
13
00:00:51,000 --> 00:00:54,000
{\an1}and the vast majority of
Egyptians live along its banks.
14
00:00:54,000 --> 00:00:56,000
In this program,
we'll sail much of it
15
00:00:56,000 --> 00:00:59,000
and visit many
of its greatest sights.
16
00:00:59,000 --> 00:01:01,000
Saving Cairo and its
magnificent pyramids
17
00:01:02,000 --> 00:01:04,000
for another episode,
we'll visit cities and sights
18
00:01:04,000 --> 00:01:06,000
all along the Nile.
19
00:01:07,000 --> 00:01:09,000
{\an1}Exploring the fabled city
of Alexandria,
20
00:01:09,000 --> 00:01:11,000
we'll venture
into a local market
21
00:01:11,000 --> 00:01:12,000
{\an1}and enjoy a shisha.
22
00:01:12,000 --> 00:01:14,000
-Strawberry.
23
00:01:14,000 --> 00:01:17,000
{\an1}-In Luxor, we'll revel
in the glory of the pharaohs --
24
00:01:17,000 --> 00:01:21,000
their temples
and their hidden tombs.
25
00:01:21,000 --> 00:01:26,000
{\an1}We'll hoist the sail for
an unforgettable felucca ride.
26
00:01:26,000 --> 00:01:29,000
Then we'll upgrade
to a river boat and kick back
27
00:01:29,000 --> 00:01:32,000
{\an1}while enjoying iconic Nile views
28
00:01:32,000 --> 00:01:35,000
and a glimpse
of timeless rural lifestyles.
29
00:01:35,000 --> 00:01:39,000
{\an1}Our finale: the magnificent
ruins of Abu Simbel.
30
00:01:39,000 --> 00:01:42,000
{\an1}In the southeast corner
of the Mediterranean,
31
00:01:42,000 --> 00:01:43,000
{\an1}Egypt is one of Africa's
32
00:01:43,000 --> 00:01:45,000
largest countries.
33
00:01:45,000 --> 00:01:46,000
The Nile River flows
34
00:01:46,000 --> 00:01:47,000
from south to north.
35
00:01:47,000 --> 00:01:49,000
{\an1}We start in Alexandria,
36
00:01:49,000 --> 00:01:50,000
fly to Luxor,
37
00:01:50,000 --> 00:01:52,000
{\an1}cruise up the Nile to Aswan,
38
00:01:52,000 --> 00:01:55,000
{\an7}and finish in Abu Simbel.
39
00:01:59,000 --> 00:02:02,000
{\an1}We're starting in the north
on the Mediterranean coast,
40
00:02:02,000 --> 00:02:05,000
{\an7}in Egypt's second city.
41
00:02:05,000 --> 00:02:09,000
{\an7}Alexandria is one of the great
cities of the Mediterranean.
42
00:02:09,000 --> 00:02:12,000
{\an1}It was Egypt's capital
for almost a thousand years,
43
00:02:12,000 --> 00:02:16,000
{\an1}until the Muslims came
in the 7th century.
44
00:02:16,000 --> 00:02:19,000
Not as big as Cairo,
it faces the Mediterranean,
45
00:02:19,000 --> 00:02:24,000
has milder weather,
and feels a bit more European.
46
00:02:24,000 --> 00:02:28,000
{\an1}Alexandria is a thriving
port town with a busy harbor.
47
00:02:28,000 --> 00:02:30,000
{\an1}Fishermen, as they have
since ancient times,
48
00:02:30,000 --> 00:02:33,000
harvest the sea
to help feed the city
49
00:02:33,000 --> 00:02:36,000
{\an1}while taking advantage
of this safe haven.
50
00:02:36,000 --> 00:02:39,000
{\an1}The harborfront corniche
is lined with cafés,
51
00:02:39,000 --> 00:02:43,000
{\an1}restaurants, and people
out enjoying the scene.
52
00:02:43,000 --> 00:02:46,000
{\an1}Strolling here in the cooler
hours of the early evening,
53
00:02:46,000 --> 00:02:49,000
you appreciate
the inviting ambience.
54
00:02:49,000 --> 00:02:54,000
♪♪
55
00:02:54,000 --> 00:02:57,000
This beachside café
has a relaxed vibe --
56
00:02:57,000 --> 00:03:00,000
{\an1}not unlike other Mediterranean
towns I've enjoyed.
57
00:03:03,000 --> 00:03:07,000
{\an1}Alexandria can feel spirited,
young, and progressive.
58
00:03:07,000 --> 00:03:09,000
In fact,
this city helped spearhead
59
00:03:09,000 --> 00:03:13,000
{\an1}Egypt's Arab Spring revolution
back in 2011.
60
00:03:13,000 --> 00:03:19,000
{\an1}The populace is an intriguing
blend of conservative, modern,
61
00:03:19,000 --> 00:03:23,000
{\an1}religious, and hipster.
62
00:03:24,000 --> 00:03:26,000
{\an1}The city has a chaotic energy
63
00:03:26,000 --> 00:03:29,000
exceeding anything
I've experienced in Europe.
64
00:03:29,000 --> 00:03:31,000
{\an1}With the constant beeping
of passing traffic,
65
00:03:31,000 --> 00:03:34,000
{\an1}its center is a carnival
of commercial life.
66
00:03:34,000 --> 00:03:37,000
Scenes like this
are why many come to Egypt --
67
00:03:37,000 --> 00:03:39,000
and why many don't.
68
00:03:39,000 --> 00:03:43,000
{\an1}[ Bicycle bell dings,
horns honking ]
69
00:03:43,000 --> 00:03:47,000
{\an1}This urban commotion literally
sits upon lots of history.
70
00:03:47,000 --> 00:03:49,000
But -- apart from
this Ancient Roman theater,
71
00:03:49,000 --> 00:03:51,000
which dates from
the 4th century --
72
00:03:51,000 --> 00:03:53,000
{\an1}very little survives.
73
00:03:53,000 --> 00:03:56,000
{\an1}It's mostly destroyed,
in the sea,
74
00:03:56,000 --> 00:03:59,000
{\an1}or buried under today's city.
75
00:03:59,000 --> 00:04:03,000
♪♪
76
00:04:03,000 --> 00:04:06,000
Alexandria was named
by Alexander the Great,
77
00:04:06,000 --> 00:04:09,000
{\an1}who founded it in 331 BC.
78
00:04:09,000 --> 00:04:11,000
It became one of
the great cities of antiquity,
79
00:04:11,000 --> 00:04:13,000
with a population
of several hundred thousand.
80
00:04:13,000 --> 00:04:15,000
Queen Cleopatra
ruled Egypt from here --
81
00:04:15,000 --> 00:04:17,000
{\an1}when the city rivaled Rome
82
00:04:17,000 --> 00:04:19,000
as a cultural
and intellectual capital
83
00:04:19,000 --> 00:04:21,000
{\an1}of the Mediterranean world.
84
00:04:21,000 --> 00:04:23,000
{\an1}And it's here that St. Mark
85
00:04:23,000 --> 00:04:25,000
{\an1}introduced Christianity
to Egypt --
86
00:04:25,000 --> 00:04:31,000
{\an4}establishing what, to this day,
is the "Coptic," or Egyptian,
Church.
87
00:04:31,000 --> 00:04:33,000
{\an1}Ancient Alexandria was home
88
00:04:33,000 --> 00:04:35,000
{\an1}to two of antiquity's
greatest sights,
89
00:04:35,000 --> 00:04:37,000
{\an1}neither of which survive:
90
00:04:37,000 --> 00:04:41,000
a huge library
and an awe-inspiring lighthouse,
91
00:04:41,000 --> 00:04:42,000
one of the wonders
of the ancient world,
92
00:04:42,000 --> 00:04:45,000
{\an1}built in around 300 BC.
93
00:04:47,000 --> 00:04:48,000
{\an1}Imagine the lighthouse
94
00:04:48,000 --> 00:04:50,000
that stood
at the mouth of this harbor.
95
00:04:50,000 --> 00:04:52,000
It was so tall that
light from its fire
96
00:04:52,000 --> 00:04:55,000
could be seen
from 30 miles out at sea.
97
00:04:55,000 --> 00:04:57,000
After guiding ships
from across the Mediterranean
98
00:04:58,000 --> 00:05:00,000
safely into port
for 15 centuries,
99
00:05:00,000 --> 00:05:03,000
{\an1}in about the year 1300,
an earthquake hit,
100
00:05:03,000 --> 00:05:06,000
{\an1}and it tumbled into the sea.
101
00:05:06,000 --> 00:05:09,000
{\an1}Today, a 500-year-old fortress
marks the spot.
102
00:05:09,000 --> 00:05:12,000
{\an1}In fact, it's said that many of
the stones from the lighthouse
103
00:05:12,000 --> 00:05:15,000
{\an1}were dredged out of the sea
to help build it.
104
00:05:17,000 --> 00:05:20,000
{\an1}While the ancient lighthouse
guided friendly ships
105
00:05:20,000 --> 00:05:22,000
in to Alexandria,
106
00:05:22,000 --> 00:05:25,000
centuries later,
this fort was designed
107
00:05:25,000 --> 00:05:29,000
to keep enemies --
like the Ottoman Turks -- out.
108
00:05:31,000 --> 00:05:33,000
And Alexandria was
famously home
109
00:05:33,000 --> 00:05:36,000
{\an1}to perhaps the greatest library
in the ancient world.
110
00:05:36,000 --> 00:05:38,000
{\an1}No ship was allowed to dock here
111
00:05:38,000 --> 00:05:41,000
{\an1}without giving up its books
to be copied.
112
00:05:41,000 --> 00:05:43,000
Tragically,
about 2,000 years ago,
113
00:05:43,000 --> 00:05:46,000
{\an1}that amazing repository
of knowledge
114
00:05:46,000 --> 00:05:48,000
{\an1}was burned and destroyed.
115
00:05:48,000 --> 00:05:53,000
{\an1}Today, its legacy survives
in the city's modern library.
116
00:05:53,000 --> 00:05:55,000
{\an1}Built in the year 2001,
117
00:05:55,000 --> 00:05:57,000
{\an1}its walls are inscribed
with characters
118
00:05:57,000 --> 00:06:00,000
{\an1}of the world's languages
through the ages.
119
00:06:00,000 --> 00:06:03,000
{\an1}An inviting gathering point
for Alexandrians,
120
00:06:03,000 --> 00:06:06,000
{\an1}the library feels promising,
perhaps offering a chance
121
00:06:06,000 --> 00:06:11,000
{\an1}to see the next generation
of this country's leaders.
122
00:06:11,000 --> 00:06:13,000
The interior
is welcoming and airy,
123
00:06:13,000 --> 00:06:15,000
with space for
hundreds of readers to sit
124
00:06:15,000 --> 00:06:17,000
{\an1}in its main reading room.
125
00:06:19,000 --> 00:06:22,000
{\an1}For me, no visit to Alexandria
is complete
126
00:06:22,000 --> 00:06:26,000
{\an1}without venturing into
its ramshackle market district.
127
00:06:26,000 --> 00:06:28,000
While you can buy
just about anything
128
00:06:28,000 --> 00:06:30,000
in these thriving
and exotic streets,
129
00:06:30,000 --> 00:06:32,000
{\an1}there's also a strong sense
of community
130
00:06:32,000 --> 00:06:36,000
that naturally comes
with such population density.
131
00:06:36,000 --> 00:06:39,000
And, to better enjoy
this convivial scene,
132
00:06:39,000 --> 00:06:42,000
I'm joined by
my Egyptian friend Tarek
133
00:06:42,000 --> 00:06:44,000
in a classic
shisha joint.
134
00:06:44,000 --> 00:06:47,000
{\an1}As I've done in Turkey and
elsewhere in the Middle East,
135
00:06:47,000 --> 00:06:49,000
I occasionally enjoy
this traditional
136
00:06:49,000 --> 00:06:51,000
{\an1}and very social form of smoking.
137
00:06:51,000 --> 00:06:52,000
-Nice, huh?
138
00:06:52,000 --> 00:06:56,000
{\an1}-This is a beautiful scene.
It's easy to relax here.
139
00:06:56,000 --> 00:06:58,000
-So relaxing,
comfortable. Peace.
140
00:06:59,000 --> 00:07:00,000
-A lot of people
in the United States,
141
00:07:00,000 --> 00:07:04,000
{\an1}they say this would be a
"hookah" or a "hubbly-bubbly."
142
00:07:04,000 --> 00:07:06,000
{\an1}What is this in Egypt?
143
00:07:06,000 --> 00:07:07,000
{\an4}- Shisha. It's called
shisha. - Shisha,
yeah.
144
00:07:07,000 --> 00:07:09,000
{\an1}-Yeah, and few people now
call it hookah,
145
00:07:09,000 --> 00:07:11,000
{\an1}hubbly-bubbly, nargile.
146
00:07:11,000 --> 00:07:13,000
It lets us vent out,
be casual, socializing,
147
00:07:13,000 --> 00:07:15,000
you know, talking
with friends --
148
00:07:15,000 --> 00:07:16,000
{\an1}we do it with close friends,
149
00:07:16,000 --> 00:07:18,000
{\an1}we vent out and talk...
150
00:07:18,000 --> 00:07:20,000
-Yeah?
-Yeah... and have fun!
151
00:07:20,000 --> 00:07:21,000
-While clearly
Tarek could spend
152
00:07:21,000 --> 00:07:23,000
{\an1}the rest of the evening
right here,
153
00:07:23,000 --> 00:07:25,000
{\an1}we've got some exploring to do.
154
00:07:25,000 --> 00:07:28,000
{\an1}A short walk is filled
with cultural serendipity.
155
00:07:28,000 --> 00:07:31,000
{\an1}And we'll start with dessert.
156
00:07:31,000 --> 00:07:33,000
{\an1}It's hard to walk by this place
157
00:07:33,000 --> 00:07:36,000
without enjoying
at least a taste.
158
00:07:36,000 --> 00:07:38,000
{\an5}-...and delicious!
-That looks great.
What are these?
159
00:07:38,000 --> 00:07:41,000
{\an1}-This is sawabe' Zainab
-- "Zainab's Fingers."
160
00:07:41,000 --> 00:07:44,000
-Zainab's Fingers.
-Mm.
161
00:07:44,000 --> 00:07:46,000
- Shukran.
-Thank you! Shukran!
162
00:07:46,000 --> 00:07:48,000
-Mmm!
163
00:07:48,000 --> 00:07:50,000
The key to this kind
of sightseeing?
164
00:07:50,000 --> 00:07:52,000
{\an1}Have a curious spirit,
165
00:07:52,000 --> 00:07:55,000
{\an1}have fun, and explore.
166
00:07:55,000 --> 00:07:58,000
These guys are
way too fast for me.
167
00:08:00,000 --> 00:08:04,000
{\an1}The entire neighborhood is an
endlessly fascinating market --
168
00:08:04,000 --> 00:08:07,000
and it's open late.
169
00:08:07,000 --> 00:08:08,000
There's fresh bread,
170
00:08:08,000 --> 00:08:12,000
♪♪
171
00:08:12,000 --> 00:08:14,000
-White chicken.
-...very fresh poultry,
172
00:08:14,000 --> 00:08:16,000
♪♪
173
00:08:16,000 --> 00:08:19,000
olives straight
from the desert,
174
00:08:19,000 --> 00:08:22,000
♪♪
175
00:08:22,000 --> 00:08:24,000
{\an1}and something I noticed
everywhere:
176
00:08:24,000 --> 00:08:27,000
{\an1}friendly and inviting people.
177
00:08:27,000 --> 00:08:30,000
{\an1}I know about six words
of Arabic --
178
00:08:30,000 --> 00:08:33,000
{\an1}but it didn't stop the smiles.
179
00:08:33,000 --> 00:08:35,000
{\an1}Okay, we've worked up
an appetite.
180
00:08:35,000 --> 00:08:38,000
And Tarek knows
a great place for fish.
181
00:08:38,000 --> 00:08:40,000
{\an1}- Bailhana' walshifa'!
182
00:08:40,000 --> 00:08:42,000
What is the fish?
What am I eating here?
183
00:08:42,000 --> 00:08:44,000
-This is "denise"
from the Mediterranean.
184
00:08:44,000 --> 00:08:45,000
-Okay.
-Yeah.
185
00:08:45,000 --> 00:08:47,000
-And then...?
-This is fried calamari
186
00:08:47,000 --> 00:08:49,000
{\an1}from the Mediterranean, too,
187
00:08:49,000 --> 00:08:50,000
and fried prawns.
188
00:08:50,000 --> 00:08:52,000
{\an1}-We dip our bread in this?
189
00:08:52,000 --> 00:08:53,000
And that?
What is this one?
190
00:08:54,000 --> 00:08:56,000
-That's tahini;
that's baba ghanoush.
191
00:08:56,000 --> 00:08:57,000
-This is tahini?
-Tahini, yes...
192
00:08:57,000 --> 00:08:59,000
-I just go...?
-Of course, yes.
193
00:09:02,000 --> 00:09:03,000
Mmm-hmm!
194
00:09:03,000 --> 00:09:05,000
{\an1}So fried eggplant, tahini,
195
00:09:05,000 --> 00:09:08,000
{\an1}you find this in many
countries in the Mediterranean.
196
00:09:08,000 --> 00:09:10,000
{\an1}-Absolutely, and each country
would claim it's "ours."
197
00:09:10,000 --> 00:09:12,000
-So today we claim
this is Egyptian.
198
00:09:12,000 --> 00:09:14,000
-This is Egyptian,
from the Mediterranean!
199
00:09:14,000 --> 00:09:16,000
{\an1}-The Mediterranean region
shares many delicious
200
00:09:16,000 --> 00:09:18,000
and similar dishes.
201
00:09:18,000 --> 00:09:20,000
{\an1}-What country wouldn't
want to claim this
202
00:09:21,000 --> 00:09:23,000
{\an1}as their national cuisine?
203
00:09:23,000 --> 00:09:26,000
But, tonight,
it's definitely Egyptian.
204
00:09:29,000 --> 00:09:31,000
{\an1}While Alexandria sits
at the delta,
205
00:09:31,000 --> 00:09:34,000
where the Nile flows
into the Mediterranean,
206
00:09:34,000 --> 00:09:39,000
{\an7}we're heading south to Luxor,
about 500 miles upstream.
207
00:09:39,000 --> 00:09:41,000
{\an1}Luxor, straddling the Nile,
208
00:09:42,000 --> 00:09:45,000
{\an1}was for many centuries
the capital of ancient Egypt.
209
00:09:45,000 --> 00:09:47,000
{\an1}It's famed for its tombs
and temples,
210
00:09:47,000 --> 00:09:51,000
{\an1}which were mostly built
between 1500 and 1000 BC.
211
00:09:51,000 --> 00:09:54,000
{\an1}These were the glory days
of the pharaohs.
212
00:09:54,000 --> 00:09:55,000
{\an1}From their palaces here,
213
00:09:55,000 --> 00:09:58,000
they proudly
ruled a united kingdom --
214
00:09:58,000 --> 00:10:01,000
{\an1}Upper and Lower Egypt together.
215
00:10:01,000 --> 00:10:05,000
{\an1}Luxor is a standard stop
on the tourist's itinerary.
216
00:10:05,000 --> 00:10:07,000
{\an1}While a city of about
half a million people today,
217
00:10:07,000 --> 00:10:12,000
{\an1}Luxor feels like a tourist town,
with its riverfront hotels,
218
00:10:12,000 --> 00:10:15,000
{\an1}shops, and ancient temples
gathered along the Nile.
219
00:10:15,000 --> 00:10:18,000
{\an1}The riverbank is lined
with characteristic boats
220
00:10:18,000 --> 00:10:24,000
{\an1}ready to ferry sightseers
to a world of ancient sights.
221
00:10:24,000 --> 00:10:27,000
{\an1}Popping into its busy market,
you find a colorful bazaar
222
00:10:28,000 --> 00:10:31,000
{\an1}that serves both locals
and tourists.
223
00:10:31,000 --> 00:10:33,000
The friendly welcome
is a reminder
224
00:10:33,000 --> 00:10:37,000
{\an1}of how important tourism is
for Egypt's economy.
225
00:10:37,000 --> 00:10:39,000
{\an1}The souvenir I take home?
226
00:10:39,000 --> 00:10:42,000
{\an1}Memories of so many vivid
snapshots of humanity.
227
00:10:46,000 --> 00:10:48,000
Luxor's charming
riverfront promenade
228
00:10:48,000 --> 00:10:52,000
{\an1}welcomes strollers enjoying
the cool of the early evening.
229
00:10:52,000 --> 00:10:55,000
{\an1}As the sun sets, we appreciate
the timeless beauty
230
00:10:56,000 --> 00:10:58,000
{\an1}of both Luxor and the Nile.
231
00:10:58,000 --> 00:11:00,000
♪♪
232
00:11:04,000 --> 00:11:09,000
{\an1}The Luxor Temple is particularly
dramatic at twilight.
233
00:11:10,000 --> 00:11:11,000
{\an1}Standing in the middle
of the city,
234
00:11:11,000 --> 00:11:13,000
{\an1}it's evocatively floodlit
235
00:11:13,000 --> 00:11:17,000
{\an1}and welcomes visitors
in the evening.
236
00:11:17,000 --> 00:11:20,000
{\an1}The towering front wall
proclaims the power
237
00:11:20,000 --> 00:11:23,000
{\an1}and greatness of the pharaohs.
238
00:11:23,000 --> 00:11:26,000
{\an1}This grand entry was marked
with a pair of soaring obelisks.
239
00:11:27,000 --> 00:11:29,000
Both still stand --
this one here,
240
00:11:29,000 --> 00:11:32,000
and its sister
in far away Paris.
241
00:11:33,000 --> 00:11:38,000
{\an1}This holy complex was built
around 1300 BC,
242
00:11:38,000 --> 00:11:42,000
{\an1}nearly a thousand years before
Ancient Greece's golden age.
243
00:11:42,000 --> 00:11:45,000
{\an1}Egypt's temples were not places
of public worship,
244
00:11:45,000 --> 00:11:49,000
{\an1}but sights of sacred mysteries
where priests and pharaohs
245
00:11:49,000 --> 00:11:52,000
{\an1}huddled privately with the gods.
246
00:11:52,000 --> 00:11:55,000
Reliefs show
pharaohs wooing the gods
247
00:11:55,000 --> 00:11:59,000
{\an1}with rituals and offerings.
248
00:11:59,000 --> 00:12:01,000
{\an1}While the temple may have been
dedicated to the gods,
249
00:12:02,000 --> 00:12:05,000
{\an1}it seems all the statues
celebrate the great pharaoh,
250
00:12:05,000 --> 00:12:08,000
Ramses II.
251
00:12:08,000 --> 00:12:12,000
{\an1}Egypt's ultimate king,
Ramses ruled for 66 years --
252
00:12:12,000 --> 00:12:16,000
{\an1}and did a lot of building.
253
00:12:16,000 --> 00:12:18,000
{\an1}The sheer size of the complex,
254
00:12:18,000 --> 00:12:20,000
with its forest
of massive columns
255
00:12:20,000 --> 00:12:22,000
{\an1}leading to huge squares,
256
00:12:22,000 --> 00:12:27,000
{\an1}is a testimony to Ramses'
power to get things done.
257
00:12:27,000 --> 00:12:30,000
{\an1}Evening's a great time to visit.
258
00:12:30,000 --> 00:12:35,000
{\an1}Under the stars, people wander,
learning and dreaming,
259
00:12:35,000 --> 00:12:39,000
{\an1}wonderstruck at the achievements
of ancient Egypt.
260
00:12:43,000 --> 00:12:45,000
{\an1}Luxor's other great sight --
261
00:12:45,000 --> 00:12:47,000
another magnificent
temple complex --
262
00:12:47,000 --> 00:12:49,000
is best enjoyed
early in the morning,
263
00:12:49,000 --> 00:12:52,000
{\an1}beating the heat and crowds.
264
00:12:52,000 --> 00:12:54,000
{\an1}An avenue of battered sphinxes
265
00:12:54,000 --> 00:12:56,000
{\an1}leads to the awe-inspiring
main entrance
266
00:12:56,000 --> 00:13:00,000
{\an1}heralding the Temples of Karnak.
267
00:13:00,000 --> 00:13:05,000
{\an1}Karnak was the most important
place of worship in all Egypt.
268
00:13:05,000 --> 00:13:08,000
Back when Luxor was
Egypt's capital,
269
00:13:08,000 --> 00:13:11,000
{\an1}this sprawling complex
of temples was dedicated
270
00:13:11,000 --> 00:13:15,000
{\an1}to the grandiose Holy Family,
a trinity of gods:
271
00:13:15,000 --> 00:13:19,000
{\an1}Amon, Mut, and Khonsu.
272
00:13:19,000 --> 00:13:21,000
It was built
over many centuries
273
00:13:21,000 --> 00:13:23,000
throughout
this New Kingdom period,
274
00:13:23,000 --> 00:13:26,000
{\an1}when most of the great
and famous kings ruled.
275
00:13:30,000 --> 00:13:34,000
{\an1}The Great Court is the largest
single area of the complex.
276
00:13:34,000 --> 00:13:38,000
{\an1}It was used once a year
for an elaborate festival feast
277
00:13:38,000 --> 00:13:42,000
{\an1}celebrating fertility:
fertility of the land,
278
00:13:42,000 --> 00:13:45,000
{\an1}the people, and the kingdom.
279
00:13:45,000 --> 00:13:47,000
{\an1}As you venture farther
into the complex,
280
00:13:47,000 --> 00:13:48,000
things get older
281
00:13:49,000 --> 00:13:51,000
and crescendo
in religious importance.
282
00:13:52,000 --> 00:13:54,000
Everything at Karnak
leads to a small chamber
283
00:13:54,000 --> 00:13:57,000
{\an1}that marks the very heart
of the temple complex:
284
00:13:57,000 --> 00:14:00,000
the Holy of Holies.
285
00:14:00,000 --> 00:14:03,000
{\an1}This was the most sacred spot
in all of Egypt.
286
00:14:03,000 --> 00:14:06,000
On this pedestal
sat a statue of the top god,
287
00:14:06,000 --> 00:14:07,000
Amon-Ra.
288
00:14:07,000 --> 00:14:10,000
{\an1}Amon-Ra was the god of Luxor,
the god of empire --
289
00:14:10,000 --> 00:14:12,000
Egypt's god of gods.
290
00:14:12,000 --> 00:14:16,000
♪♪
291
00:14:16,000 --> 00:14:19,000
{\an1}The Nile still flows,
as it did for the pharaohs --
292
00:14:19,000 --> 00:14:23,000
{\an1}the lifeblood of civilization
then, as today.
293
00:14:23,000 --> 00:14:27,000
{\an1}Luxor's riverfront is busy
with boats big and small.
294
00:14:27,000 --> 00:14:31,000
{\an1}The traditional felucca -- long
a hard-working cargo boat --
295
00:14:31,000 --> 00:14:34,000
{\an1}now hauls vacationing tourists.
296
00:14:34,000 --> 00:14:38,000
{\an1}Anywhere on the Nile,
I love a felucca ride.
297
00:14:38,000 --> 00:14:43,000
{\an1}The hand-stitched canvas sail
artfully catches the breeze.
298
00:14:43,000 --> 00:14:45,000
Egyptian boatmen
have been sailing this river
299
00:14:45,000 --> 00:14:47,000
{\an1}for thousands of years.
300
00:14:47,000 --> 00:14:50,000
{\an1}Today, they expertly maneuver
301
00:14:50,000 --> 00:14:53,000
as tourists leave
every care behind,
302
00:14:53,000 --> 00:14:55,000
{\an1}enjoying this scene --
303
00:14:55,000 --> 00:15:01,000
{\an1}essentially unchanged
since the time of the pharaohs.
304
00:15:02,000 --> 00:15:04,000
{\an1}Here, where the desert
meets the Nile,
305
00:15:04,000 --> 00:15:06,000
{\an1}the lush ribbon of green
306
00:15:06,000 --> 00:15:09,000
is a reminder of
how fundamental this river is
307
00:15:09,000 --> 00:15:12,000
{\an1}to all life in Egypt.
308
00:15:12,000 --> 00:15:17,000
♪♪
309
00:15:17,000 --> 00:15:22,000
♪♪
310
00:15:22,000 --> 00:15:26,000
As the sun sets,
palms become silhouettes,
311
00:15:26,000 --> 00:15:30,000
{\an1}ensuring memories created
are never forgotten.
312
00:15:30,000 --> 00:15:33,000
♪♪
313
00:15:36,000 --> 00:15:39,000
{\an1}Across the Nile from Luxor
are hills rich
314
00:15:39,000 --> 00:15:42,000
with some of Egypt's
most important ancient sights.
315
00:15:43,000 --> 00:15:45,000
{\an1}While most sightseers
cross the river
316
00:15:45,000 --> 00:15:47,000
{\an1}on a fleet of touristy shuttles,
317
00:15:47,000 --> 00:15:49,000
{\an1}we're riding on the public ferry
with the locals.
318
00:15:49,000 --> 00:15:52,000
And we're heading
for the Valley of the Kings
319
00:15:52,000 --> 00:15:54,000
{\an1}and the ancient tombs.
320
00:15:55,000 --> 00:15:56,000
{\an1}To the ancient Egyptians,
321
00:15:56,000 --> 00:15:58,000
{\an1}it seemed logical to live
on the east bank,
322
00:15:58,000 --> 00:16:00,000
where the sun rises,
323
00:16:00,000 --> 00:16:01,000
and bury your dead
on the west bank,
324
00:16:01,000 --> 00:16:05,000
{\an1}where the sun dies each evening.
325
00:16:05,000 --> 00:16:09,000
{\an1}The valley is blanketed with
yet-to-be-excavated ruins.
326
00:16:09,000 --> 00:16:14,000
{\an1}Here, two lonely statues
herald a long-gone temple.
327
00:16:14,000 --> 00:16:17,000
{\an7}And here, burrowed into
an arid mountain range,
328
00:16:17,000 --> 00:16:19,000
{\an7}is the Valley of the Kings,
329
00:16:19,000 --> 00:16:22,000
{\an1}where mummified pharaohs
hide out with their treasures,
330
00:16:22,000 --> 00:16:25,000
{\an1}awaiting the eternity express.
331
00:16:29,000 --> 00:16:32,000
{\an1}This valley was all about
protecting royal tombs,
332
00:16:32,000 --> 00:16:34,000
{\an1}and so were the great pyramids
before it.
333
00:16:34,000 --> 00:16:36,000
It was to ensure
that all those valuables
334
00:16:37,000 --> 00:16:39,000
made it safely
into the afterlife.
335
00:16:39,000 --> 00:16:42,000
Ironically,
rather than protecting tombs,
336
00:16:42,000 --> 00:16:44,000
{\an1}the pyramids were actually
attracting thieves.
337
00:16:45,000 --> 00:16:47,000
Again and again,
pyramids were looted
338
00:16:47,000 --> 00:16:51,000
{\an1}and pharaohs were waking up in
heaven with absolutely nothing.
339
00:16:51,000 --> 00:16:54,000
By about 1500 BC,
340
00:16:54,000 --> 00:16:56,000
pharaohs stopped
building pyramids
341
00:16:56,000 --> 00:16:59,000
{\an1}and began hiding their tombs
instead.
342
00:16:59,000 --> 00:17:02,000
{\an1}These tombs -- buried deep
in the folds of this valley --
343
00:17:02,000 --> 00:17:04,000
{\an1}proved to be more secure
344
00:17:04,000 --> 00:17:09,000
{\an1}than the intentionally
high-profile pyramids.
345
00:17:09,000 --> 00:17:11,000
{\an1}While around 60 tombs
have been excavated
346
00:17:11,000 --> 00:17:12,000
{\an1}in the Valley of the Kings,
347
00:17:13,000 --> 00:17:15,000
far more have yet
to be discovered.
348
00:17:15,000 --> 00:17:20,000
♪♪
349
00:17:20,000 --> 00:17:24,000
{\an1}The tomb of Ramses IV
was typical.
350
00:17:24,000 --> 00:17:27,000
It had a long ramp,
intricately carved and painted,
351
00:17:27,000 --> 00:17:29,000
{\an1}leading to the burial chamber.
352
00:17:30,000 --> 00:17:34,000
♪♪
353
00:17:34,000 --> 00:17:38,000
{\an1}This massive granite sarcophagus
was slid down the ramp.
354
00:17:39,000 --> 00:17:41,000
{\an1}It protected the mummy
of the pharaoh.
355
00:17:41,000 --> 00:17:44,000
{\an1}Slathered in hieroglyphs --
prayers and symbolism --
356
00:17:44,000 --> 00:17:49,000
{\an1}it was all designed to boost
the pharaoh into the next life.
357
00:17:49,000 --> 00:17:51,000
Jackals stand guard,
358
00:17:51,000 --> 00:17:56,000
{\an1}and here, a god presents two
ankhs -- the symbol of life.
359
00:17:56,000 --> 00:18:01,000
{\an1}The burial chamber walls are
remarkably vivid for their age.
360
00:18:01,000 --> 00:18:05,000
{\an1}Sealed away dry, dark, and
forgotten for over 3,000 years,
361
00:18:05,000 --> 00:18:07,000
{\an1}they're beautifully preserved.
362
00:18:07,000 --> 00:18:09,000
{\an1}Tourists can still clearly see
363
00:18:10,000 --> 00:18:13,000
Ancient Egypt's
elaborate spiritual world.
364
00:18:13,000 --> 00:18:15,000
The most famous tomb
in the valley
365
00:18:16,000 --> 00:18:20,000
{\an1}is of King Tutankhamun --
A.K.A. King Tut.
366
00:18:20,000 --> 00:18:23,000
Another long passage
leads deep into a chamber
367
00:18:23,000 --> 00:18:25,000
where you find more
well-preserved paintings
368
00:18:25,000 --> 00:18:29,000
surrounding an empty
stone sarcophagus.
369
00:18:29,000 --> 00:18:32,000
It was one of eight
nesting boxes and coffins
370
00:18:32,000 --> 00:18:36,000
that protected
the pharaoh's body.
371
00:18:36,000 --> 00:18:40,000
{\an1}Remarkably, Tut's actual mummy
lies nearby.
372
00:18:40,000 --> 00:18:42,000
The ancient process
of mummification
373
00:18:42,000 --> 00:18:44,000
{\an1}ensured that the body was there
374
00:18:44,000 --> 00:18:47,000
{\an1}for the soul to inhabit
in the afterlife.
375
00:18:47,000 --> 00:18:54,000
{\an1}And yet, gotta admit, Tut
doesn't look a day over 3,500.
376
00:18:54,000 --> 00:18:57,000
{\an1}While his reign was of
no importance historically
377
00:18:57,000 --> 00:18:59,000
{\an1}and only lasted a few years,
378
00:18:59,000 --> 00:19:02,000
{\an1}Tutankhamun is the one pharaoh
whose name we all know.
379
00:19:03,000 --> 00:19:05,000
{\an1}That's because in 1922
380
00:19:05,000 --> 00:19:10,000
{\an1}this tomb was discovered
with its treasures intact.
381
00:19:10,000 --> 00:19:14,000
And those treasures
are now back in Cairo.
382
00:19:14,000 --> 00:19:17,000
Tut's mummy was
in this extravagant coffin.
383
00:19:17,000 --> 00:19:20,000
He was wearing a
dazzling mask --
384
00:19:20,000 --> 00:19:24,000
24 pounds of gold
inlaid with lapis lazuli
385
00:19:24,000 --> 00:19:26,000
{\an1}and filled with symbolism
386
00:19:26,000 --> 00:19:29,000
{\an1}proclaiming the greatness
of this boy pharaoh.
387
00:19:33,000 --> 00:19:35,000
A short venture
beyond the famous sights
388
00:19:35,000 --> 00:19:40,000
{\an1}takes us into a timeless Egypt
untouched by tourism.
389
00:19:40,000 --> 00:19:43,000
The vast majority
of Egypt's 100 million people
390
00:19:43,000 --> 00:19:45,000
live along the banks
of the Nile.
391
00:19:45,000 --> 00:19:48,000
And most of them
lead traditional lives
392
00:19:48,000 --> 00:19:51,000
on land made fertile
by the river.
393
00:19:51,000 --> 00:19:53,000
Plowing with oxen...
394
00:19:53,000 --> 00:19:56,000
♪♪
395
00:19:56,000 --> 00:19:58,000
{\an1}...sowing seeds by hand...
396
00:19:58,000 --> 00:20:00,000
♪♪
397
00:20:00,000 --> 00:20:03,000
{\an1}...and harvesting their crops...
398
00:20:03,000 --> 00:20:05,000
♪♪
399
00:20:05,000 --> 00:20:10,000
{\an1}...they farm as they have
through the millennia.
400
00:20:10,000 --> 00:20:12,000
In some ways,
life along the Nile
401
00:20:12,000 --> 00:20:16,000
{\an1}seems to have changed little
since the days of the pharaohs.
402
00:20:16,000 --> 00:20:17,000
{\an1}The major difference?
403
00:20:17,000 --> 00:20:19,000
{\an1}The annual flooding --
404
00:20:19,000 --> 00:20:22,000
{\an1}once essential to nourish
the soil with silt --
405
00:20:22,000 --> 00:20:26,000
has been controlled
by an enormous dam.
406
00:20:26,000 --> 00:20:28,000
Today, fertilizing
and irrigating the soil
407
00:20:28,000 --> 00:20:32,000
{\an1}is the work of engineers
rather than the gods.
408
00:20:32,000 --> 00:20:33,000
{\an1}With the Nile now tamed,
409
00:20:33,000 --> 00:20:37,000
{\an1}farming in Egypt is possible
throughout the year.
410
00:20:39,000 --> 00:20:42,000
Luxor is a busy port
for river cruise boats.
411
00:20:42,000 --> 00:20:45,000
{\an1}Fleets of these provide
multiday Nile cruises,
412
00:20:45,000 --> 00:20:49,000
{\an1}which have become a standard
part of an Egyptian tour.
413
00:20:49,000 --> 00:20:51,000
We're riding one
farther upstream
414
00:20:51,000 --> 00:20:55,000
{\an1}for a look at the most scenic
stretch of the Nile.
415
00:20:55,000 --> 00:20:58,000
{\an1}The trip upriver takes you
by natural beauty
416
00:20:58,000 --> 00:21:00,000
{\an1}and seemingly ancient scenes
417
00:21:00,000 --> 00:21:05,000
interrupted only
by modern cruise boats.
418
00:21:05,000 --> 00:21:10,000
{\an1}Long stretches pass by timeless
slices of Egyptian life
419
00:21:10,000 --> 00:21:13,000
as vacationers have
little option but to relax
420
00:21:13,000 --> 00:21:16,000
and live at the pace
of the steady boat
421
00:21:16,000 --> 00:21:19,000
{\an1}heading against the current
of the fabled river.
422
00:21:21,000 --> 00:21:23,000
It's so peaceful,
423
00:21:23,000 --> 00:21:30,000
{\an1}until the tranquility
is broken by...pirates?!
424
00:21:30,000 --> 00:21:34,000
Nope! They're eager
and enterprising salesmen
425
00:21:34,000 --> 00:21:36,000
who artfully tie up
to the surging river boats
426
00:21:36,000 --> 00:21:41,000
{\an1}to display, model, and haggle --
427
00:21:41,000 --> 00:21:43,000
{\an1}[ Men shouting indistinctly ]
428
00:21:43,000 --> 00:21:45,000
{\an1}selling their souvenirs
the hard way.
429
00:21:45,000 --> 00:21:49,000
♪♪
430
00:21:49,000 --> 00:21:51,000
{\an1}Whether you buy anything or not,
431
00:21:51,000 --> 00:21:53,000
you can enjoy
their entertaining show
432
00:21:53,000 --> 00:21:57,000
{\an1}afternoons on both the port
and starboard sides.
433
00:22:02,000 --> 00:22:06,000
{\an1}As the sun gets low in the sky,
we enter the magic hour.
434
00:22:06,000 --> 00:22:09,000
{\an1}Scenes crescendo in beauty
as they glide gracefully
435
00:22:09,000 --> 00:22:12,000
{\an1}by either side of the boat.
436
00:22:12,000 --> 00:22:15,000
{\an1}We pass patient fisherman,
437
00:22:15,000 --> 00:22:22,000
grazing cattle,
farmers at work...
438
00:22:22,000 --> 00:22:27,000
Children play,
villagers do their chores,
439
00:22:27,000 --> 00:22:33,000
{\an1}and minarets call all to prayer
as the sun sets.
440
00:22:33,000 --> 00:22:40,000
♪♪
441
00:22:43,000 --> 00:22:46,000
After two lazy days,
we reach the city of Aswan,
442
00:22:47,000 --> 00:22:49,000
the last major port
on the river.
443
00:22:49,000 --> 00:22:52,000
{\an1}An ancient garrison town
famed for its granite quarries,
444
00:22:52,000 --> 00:22:55,000
{\an1}today it's embraced tourism,
445
00:22:55,000 --> 00:22:59,000
{\an1}taking full advantage
of its attractive riverfront.
446
00:22:59,000 --> 00:23:03,000
{\an1}These days, Aswan is most famous
for its massive dam.
447
00:23:03,000 --> 00:23:06,000
It was built with
Soviet technology and money
448
00:23:06,000 --> 00:23:08,000
{\an1}back in the Cold War.
449
00:23:09,000 --> 00:23:11,000
{\an1}A game-changer for Egypt,
it tamed the Nile,
450
00:23:11,000 --> 00:23:13,000
{\an1}providing electricity
451
00:23:13,000 --> 00:23:17,000
{\an1}and controlling the flow
of the once-erratic river.
452
00:23:17,000 --> 00:23:21,000
{\an1}The dam created a huge
reservoir, called "Lake Nasser."
453
00:23:21,000 --> 00:23:25,000
{\an1}Its creation submerged many
towns and ancient treasures.
454
00:23:25,000 --> 00:23:28,000
{\an1}But the most important
temple was saved.
455
00:23:30,000 --> 00:23:35,000
{\an1}To visit that temple, tourists
catch a short flight from Aswan.
456
00:23:35,000 --> 00:23:37,000
{\an1}It's an easy half-day side trip
457
00:23:37,000 --> 00:23:40,000
{\an1}over one of the largest
manmade lakes in the world.
458
00:23:40,000 --> 00:23:45,000
♪♪
459
00:23:45,000 --> 00:23:47,000
{\an7}The Temple of Abu Simbel,
460
00:23:47,000 --> 00:23:51,000
{\an7}while originally built by
Ramses II in about 1250 BC,
461
00:23:51,000 --> 00:23:57,000
was relocated here
only about 50 years ago.
462
00:23:57,000 --> 00:24:00,000
{\an1}Abu Simbel was saved from
being submerged in the lake
463
00:24:00,000 --> 00:24:03,000
{\an1}and lost forever after
an international outcry.
464
00:24:03,000 --> 00:24:05,000
{\an1}Thanks to a heroic effort
in 1968,
465
00:24:05,000 --> 00:24:08,000
this ancient temple
was cut into huge blocks
466
00:24:08,000 --> 00:24:10,000
{\an1}and relocated to this spot --
467
00:24:10,000 --> 00:24:13,000
{\an1}high and dry for at least
another 3,000 years.
468
00:24:13,000 --> 00:24:18,000
♪♪
469
00:24:18,000 --> 00:24:21,000
{\an1}Four towering statues
of the powerful pharaoh
470
00:24:21,000 --> 00:24:24,000
{\an1}stand sentinel at the entry.
471
00:24:27,000 --> 00:24:29,000
Ramses' wife
and some of his children --
472
00:24:29,000 --> 00:24:32,000
{\an1}considered less important and
therefore smaller in scale --
473
00:24:32,000 --> 00:24:34,000
are at his feet.
474
00:24:36,000 --> 00:24:39,000
{\an1}Inside, the central hall
is lined
475
00:24:39,000 --> 00:24:45,000
{\an1}with more imposing statues
of Ramses.
476
00:24:45,000 --> 00:24:50,000
{\an1}They're surrounded by reliefs
showing off his power.
477
00:24:50,000 --> 00:24:53,000
{\an1}Here, the pharaoh leads
his army into battle,
478
00:24:53,000 --> 00:24:55,000
{\an1}riding his chariot --
479
00:24:55,000 --> 00:24:57,000
{\an1}thoroughly destroying
his enemies.
480
00:24:58,000 --> 00:25:03,000
♪♪
481
00:25:03,000 --> 00:25:06,000
And finally,
in the sacred sanctuary,
482
00:25:06,000 --> 00:25:12,000
{\an1}Ramses assumes his place
in the company of the gods.
483
00:25:16,000 --> 00:25:19,000
{\an1}Admiring this one last
magnificent temple,
484
00:25:19,000 --> 00:25:22,000
{\an1}you can't help but ponder
the rich and complicated
485
00:25:22,000 --> 00:25:25,000
5,000-year story
of this civilization.
486
00:25:25,000 --> 00:25:27,000
{\an1}I hope you've enjoyed
our look at Alexandria,
487
00:25:27,000 --> 00:25:29,000
Luxor, and some
of the wonders of the Nile.
488
00:25:29,000 --> 00:25:30,000
I'm Rick Steves.
489
00:25:30,000 --> 00:25:34,000
Until next time,
keep on travelin'.
490
00:25:34,000 --> 00:25:37,000
-After guiding ships
from across the Mediterranean
491
00:25:37,000 --> 00:25:38,000
safely into port
492
00:25:38,000 --> 00:25:40,000
for [stuttering]
f-f-fifteen centuries...
493
00:25:40,000 --> 00:25:43,000
{\an1}[ Drumming on stone ]
494
00:25:43,000 --> 00:25:46,000
{\an1}The pyramids were actually
attracting...thieves.
495
00:25:46,000 --> 00:25:47,000
Again and again.
496
00:25:47,000 --> 00:25:50,000
♪♪
497
00:25:50,000 --> 00:25:52,000
[ Hookah bubbles ]
498
00:25:52,000 --> 00:25:55,000
♪♪
499
00:25:56,000 --> 00:25:57,000
[ Laughs ]
500
00:25:57,000 --> 00:25:59,000
♪♪
501
00:25:59,000 --> 00:26:00,000
Yeah, baby!
502
00:26:01,000 --> 00:26:04,000
♪♪
503
00:26:04,000 --> 00:26:06,000
{\an1}[ Door slams, bell tolls ]
40627
Can't find what you're looking for?
Get subtitles in any language from opensubtitles.com, and translate them here.