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PHANTOM INDIA
Reflections on a Journey
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00:01:47,807 --> 00:01:51,504
Only 2% of Indians speak English,
the official language after colonization.
3
00:01:52,479 --> 00:01:55,277
This 2% talks a lot,
in the name of all the rest.
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00:01:55,482 --> 00:01:58,474
Politicians, businessmen,
intellectuals, bureaucrats -
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00:01:58,685 --> 00:02:01,153
all explained
their ideas to me at length,
6
00:02:01,721 --> 00:02:05,714
and I immediately sensed that the real
questions weren't being addressed.
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00:02:15,335 --> 00:02:16,996
In learning English,
8
00:02:17,203 --> 00:02:20,661
they also learned to think
as our civilization does.
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00:02:20,874 --> 00:02:25,743
Their words about their country were
ordered by Western symbols and logic.
10
00:02:27,814 --> 00:02:32,080
I'd heard them all before.
I recognized them as my own.
11
00:02:34,254 --> 00:02:36,245
Tattered ideas, worn-out phrases,
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00:02:36,456 --> 00:02:38,720
like Nietzsche's birds,
so exhausted from flying
13
00:02:38,925 --> 00:02:41,155
that one can catch them
in one's hand.
14
00:03:11,391 --> 00:03:14,451
Thursday, January 18.
Delhi, the first day of shooting.
15
00:03:14,994 --> 00:03:16,689
We leave the city.
16
00:03:16,896 --> 00:03:19,956
Behind a small factory in the suburbs,
a barren vacant lot,
17
00:03:20,166 --> 00:03:23,101
scattered clumps of grass,
crouching women.
18
00:03:23,303 --> 00:03:26,898
On our arrival, one of the women
curses us and flees.
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00:03:52,765 --> 00:03:55,563
Her curses are translated. :
She doesn't want to be filmed.
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00:03:55,768 --> 00:03:58,498
It's evil,
a spell we cast upon her.
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00:03:58,972 --> 00:04:02,635
Being filmed will steal
from her everything she is.
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00:04:15,622 --> 00:04:18,113
The camera's fundamental brazenness
is something I've constantly experienced,
23
00:04:18,324 --> 00:04:21,555
even in Paris, even with actors,
even on film sets.
24
00:04:21,761 --> 00:04:24,389
Here it's worse.
These women have absolutely nothing.
25
00:04:24,597 --> 00:04:27,725
They spend the morning on their knees
to glean a handful of fodder,
26
00:04:27,934 --> 00:04:30,164
and I steal a bit more from them.
27
00:04:30,370 --> 00:04:32,201
To them, we're Martians.
28
00:04:32,405 --> 00:04:35,397
We enter their universe
without permission.
29
00:04:35,608 --> 00:04:38,839
Our camera is a weapon,
and they're afraid of us.
30
00:05:19,919 --> 00:05:23,753
Thursday, January 25.
Shepherds on the road to Halvar at night.
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00:05:24,123 --> 00:05:26,421
Camera in hand,
we emerge from the shadows
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00:05:26,626 --> 00:05:28,423
like bandits.
33
00:05:41,074 --> 00:05:44,942
The shepherds watch us filming them,
half worried, half mocking.
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00:05:45,445 --> 00:05:49,074
Our loot. : A few images,
a few words, some laughter.
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00:05:49,282 --> 00:05:52,251
We know nothing about them.
They know nothing about us.
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00:05:52,552 --> 00:05:54,315
That's what this film will be. :
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00:05:54,520 --> 00:05:58,581
images gathered without a script
or preconceived concept,
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00:05:58,791 --> 00:06:01,851
a film of our chance encounters.
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00:06:09,035 --> 00:06:11,868
Like these stonecutters
on the outskirts of a village.
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00:06:12,071 --> 00:06:14,130
They seem from another age,
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00:06:14,340 --> 00:06:17,673
pyramid builders,
slaves from vanished civilizations.
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00:06:18,311 --> 00:06:20,472
I feel like I'm dreaming
with my eyes open,
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00:06:20,680 --> 00:06:24,047
but for them, it's terribly real.
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00:06:24,250 --> 00:06:28,584
They earn half a rupee per stone
and haul eight stones a day.
45
00:06:42,435 --> 00:06:46,428
Tuesday, April 9.
Mysore, 2.:00 p.m.
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00:06:46,639 --> 00:06:48,869
The man's face
is blackened with smoke.
47
00:06:49,308 --> 00:06:52,334
A skeleton is painted
on the child's bare skin.
48
00:06:58,251 --> 00:07:01,118
These are Muslims
celebrating Muhurram.
49
00:07:01,320 --> 00:07:04,312
This traditional dance is called
the Tiger Dance.
50
00:07:04,524 --> 00:07:08,585
It's also a job. The man and child
earn their living dancing.
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00:07:09,629 --> 00:07:13,565
Words are useless between us.
The image is our only connection.
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00:07:13,766 --> 00:07:16,633
They dance and I film them.
That's all.
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00:07:44,730 --> 00:07:48,757
Everywhere we go, the first thing
I see are their eyes, their stares.
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00:07:53,372 --> 00:07:55,169
In a moment
we're surrounded by Indians.
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00:07:55,374 --> 00:07:58,775
We came to see them,
but they're the ones looking at us.
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00:07:59,745 --> 00:08:02,407
So we preferred to film them that way,
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00:08:02,615 --> 00:08:06,016
their sea of enormous eyes
turned on us,
58
00:08:06,219 --> 00:08:08,016
on the camera's single eye.
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00:08:08,821 --> 00:08:11,016
We decided to film all these looks,
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00:08:11,224 --> 00:08:13,351
to make them
the leitmotiv of our journey.
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00:08:29,575 --> 00:08:31,475
Monday, February 19.
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00:08:31,677 --> 00:08:34,874
A group gathers around
an orchestra and dancers at a wedding.
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00:08:38,084 --> 00:08:39,881
At our approach, everything stops.
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00:08:40,419 --> 00:08:43,582
The participants stop
what they're doing to look at us.
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00:08:43,789 --> 00:08:45,882
The roles are reversed. :
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00:08:46,092 --> 00:08:48,890
We've become the show,
and they're the audience.
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00:08:49,695 --> 00:08:52,493
The young groom,
his face covered with yellow powder,
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00:08:52,698 --> 00:08:56,759
wearing a flowered hat,
waits for something to happen,
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00:08:56,969 --> 00:08:59,130
for us to do something.
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00:09:27,333 --> 00:09:30,029
Bit by bit,
they seem to forget about us.
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00:09:30,336 --> 00:09:32,304
The ceremony continues
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00:09:32,505 --> 00:09:34,803
with its precise ritual,
unchanged for centuries.
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00:09:35,007 --> 00:09:39,034
This eternity erases us,
like an unimportant spot in the crowd.
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00:09:40,146 --> 00:09:44,014
The husband goes from door to door.
He's given rice and offerings.
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00:10:18,050 --> 00:10:20,280
For 150 bricks,
these men earn one rupee,
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00:10:20,486 --> 00:10:22,954
equivalent to 64 centimes,
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00:10:23,155 --> 00:10:26,352
but equivalents are meaningless here
where everything is different.
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00:10:27,326 --> 00:10:31,456
We film them as they are, the hypnotic
repetition of their movements.
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00:10:31,664 --> 00:10:34,064
There's some sort of truth to be found
there at least.
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00:10:34,834 --> 00:10:37,268
To tell how they work
10-1 2 hours a day,
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00:10:37,470 --> 00:10:40,871
live in huts,
come from neighboring villages,
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00:10:41,073 --> 00:10:42,597
have no land-
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00:10:42,808 --> 00:10:46,471
would all that add anything
to what the images already reveal?
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00:11:10,636 --> 00:11:12,399
Saturday, March 2.
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00:11:12,605 --> 00:11:16,234
The proletarianized peasants
call these "the backward classes, "
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00:11:16,442 --> 00:11:19,878
an expression used to designate
those without caste, the Untouchables.
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00:11:20,079 --> 00:11:22,877
They are exploited,
their lives stolen.
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00:11:23,082 --> 00:11:26,210
In this scene,
rich ground for political analysis,
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00:11:26,419 --> 00:11:28,910
I notice the camera's
chosen only one aspect.
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00:11:29,121 --> 00:11:31,453
It keeps returning
to this young woman,
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00:11:31,657 --> 00:11:34,956
because we're drawn to her beauty,
her graceful modesty, her laugh.
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00:11:35,161 --> 00:11:38,892
Because she dazzles us. Because
that's what it was like that morning.
93
00:11:39,932 --> 00:11:43,663
Gradually we discovered
the simple joy of not planning ahead,
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00:11:43,936 --> 00:11:47,770
of deciding neither what to shoot
nor its meaning.
95
00:11:48,474 --> 00:11:51,204
We follow the camera.
It guides us.
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00:11:53,012 --> 00:11:56,846
We're not filming to defend an idea,
or demonstrate one.
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00:12:34,186 --> 00:12:36,654
For three months
we followed the trees.
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00:12:36,989 --> 00:12:39,890
The roads are terrible,
but the trees are magnificent.
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00:12:40,092 --> 00:12:43,357
They've been revered for centuries,
with altars devoted to them,
100
00:12:43,562 --> 00:12:46,395
with a statue of Ganesh,
son of Shiva,
101
00:12:46,599 --> 00:12:49,534
elephant-headed god
of prosperity.
102
00:12:52,938 --> 00:12:55,270
I made this journey
for personal reasons.
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00:12:55,641 --> 00:12:59,168
It was an escape,
a break, a sudden detour,
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00:13:00,045 --> 00:13:02,479
but the escape quickly
became a quest,
105
00:13:02,681 --> 00:13:05,445
a need to discover, or rediscover.
106
00:13:05,651 --> 00:13:07,846
Each step we take is part of the film.
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00:13:08,053 --> 00:13:11,489
Westerners with a camera -
Westerners twice over.
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00:13:25,905 --> 00:13:27,736
Sunday, February 18.
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00:13:27,940 --> 00:13:30,773
We saw the flags
and heard the music,
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00:13:30,976 --> 00:13:33,444
but when we got there,
the festival was over.
111
00:13:34,880 --> 00:13:38,213
We saw priests
giving food to beggars.
112
00:13:38,417 --> 00:13:40,817
Or at least
that's what we thought we saw.
113
00:13:41,020 --> 00:13:46,048
But these aren't beggars, but Brahman
peasants come from local villages
114
00:13:46,258 --> 00:13:50,024
for a ceremony honoring Shiva
that will last several days.
115
00:13:51,430 --> 00:13:55,025
As Brahmans they belong
to the highest level of the caste system.
116
00:13:55,334 --> 00:13:58,394
This doesn't make them the richest,
but the most respected.
117
00:13:58,838 --> 00:14:01,500
Other peasants keep
a respectful distance.
118
00:14:01,707 --> 00:14:04,301
They'd never dare share
the Brahmans'meal.
119
00:14:17,356 --> 00:14:21,349
Knowing someone's a Brahman isn't
enough to place them in Indian society.
120
00:14:21,660 --> 00:14:24,493
There are more than 1,800 subdivisions
within the Brahman caste.
121
00:14:24,697 --> 00:14:28,428
The groups cannot intermarry,
nor even share a meal.
122
00:14:29,935 --> 00:14:32,165
Western logic fails here.
123
00:14:32,605 --> 00:14:34,505
It takes an intuitive understanding.
124
00:14:34,707 --> 00:14:38,302
We'd have to experience it
from the inside, be a part of it.
125
00:15:06,538 --> 00:15:09,439
These are Catholic Indians, traveling
performers putting on their show.
126
00:15:09,942 --> 00:15:14,641
A circling rider who never dismounts,
a transvestite in too much makeup,
127
00:15:14,847 --> 00:15:16,678
music that isn't Indian at all,
128
00:15:16,882 --> 00:15:19,612
an image of Jesus on the altar
among Hindu gods -
129
00:15:19,818 --> 00:15:21,843
it's like something
out of a Fellini film,
130
00:15:22,054 --> 00:15:26,491
ambiguous, indecent,
completely unexpected in India,
131
00:15:26,692 --> 00:15:28,489
which continually startles us
with its Puritanism.
132
00:15:28,694 --> 00:15:31,959
I'm taken by the sudden feeling
of being home again,
133
00:15:32,164 --> 00:15:34,689
finding Europe
on the shores of Kerala.
134
00:16:24,516 --> 00:16:25,915
Friday, April 5.
135
00:16:26,118 --> 00:16:27,915
A Communist demonstration.
136
00:16:28,253 --> 00:16:32,383
I'm told they're postal workers
protesting a postage increase.
137
00:16:32,591 --> 00:16:35,355
It seems odd, but at the same time,
quite nice of them.
138
00:16:36,462 --> 00:16:38,896
They keep chanting the same slogans.
139
00:16:39,098 --> 00:16:41,566
We keep hearing a word
that means "Long live..."
140
00:16:42,101 --> 00:16:46,231
Long live the Communist party,
the postal union, the Vietcong.
141
00:16:50,909 --> 00:16:53,002
I don't believe the story
about the postage increase.
142
00:16:53,212 --> 00:16:55,146
I can see they don't trust us.
143
00:16:55,347 --> 00:16:59,511
We've often been taken
for US spies, CIA informants.
144
00:17:00,119 --> 00:17:03,020
Indeed, I often feel like a cop,
145
00:17:03,222 --> 00:17:05,486
as if my film were surveillance,
146
00:17:05,691 --> 00:17:07,784
an investigation
whose purpose still escapes me.
147
00:18:20,766 --> 00:18:22,199
Friday, March 18.
148
00:18:22,401 --> 00:18:24,392
In the south, not far from a village,
149
00:18:24,603 --> 00:18:27,401
we come across
a large group of vultures.
150
00:18:27,606 --> 00:18:31,337
The corpse at the side of the road
is a buffalo, mostly intact.
151
00:18:33,011 --> 00:18:35,172
We've seen this often.
152
00:18:35,380 --> 00:18:37,644
In many parts of India,
for religious reasons,
153
00:18:37,850 --> 00:18:39,943
it's forbidden to slay cattle.
154
00:18:40,152 --> 00:18:43,644
They still die-of old age,
sickness, cold, hunger,
155
00:18:43,856 --> 00:18:45,790
what we call "natural causes. "
156
00:18:47,526 --> 00:18:49,926
A dog helps itself to the corpse,
157
00:18:50,129 --> 00:18:52,563
while vultures wait.
They're in no hurry.
158
00:23:00,212 --> 00:23:01,941
When I see this scene again today,
159
00:23:02,147 --> 00:23:05,583
I realize we reacted
in terms of our culture.
160
00:23:06,351 --> 00:23:08,717
Around us, the landscape
reminded us of Greece,
161
00:23:08,920 --> 00:23:10,820
bathed in some austere grandeur
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00:23:11,022 --> 00:23:13,650
that lent an air
of mysterious sacrifice.
163
00:23:14,025 --> 00:23:17,688
To us it was a tragedy,
a drama in several acts.
164
00:23:18,330 --> 00:23:22,232
For our Indian companion,
it was an everyday scene. :
165
00:23:22,434 --> 00:23:25,403
a glimpse of life and death
and their calm alternation.
166
00:23:26,204 --> 00:23:28,934
It was nothing worth filming,
nothing extraordinary.
167
00:23:46,091 --> 00:23:47,991
As we headed further south,
168
00:23:48,193 --> 00:23:51,594
we frequently found statues
at the entrance to villages. :
169
00:23:51,797 --> 00:23:54,061
gigantic animals, especially horses.
170
00:23:54,266 --> 00:23:58,032
These are the villages' divine protectors,
their personal gods.
171
00:24:03,508 --> 00:24:06,966
In the south, religion is everywhere
a part of daily life.
172
00:24:07,179 --> 00:24:10,239
Here, a jeweler throws a party
for his friends and family.
173
00:24:17,355 --> 00:24:19,414
Folklore, as seen in the West,
174
00:24:19,624 --> 00:24:22,354
is the continuation or rediscovery
of ancient traditions.
175
00:24:22,561 --> 00:24:27,521
Folklore needs tourists to exist,
and in India, tourists are scarce.
176
00:24:28,500 --> 00:24:30,661
The gestures, the attitudes,
the ceremony,
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00:24:30,869 --> 00:24:32,359
everything happens
in the present tense,
178
00:24:32,571 --> 00:24:35,039
in the indicative mode, in reality.
179
00:24:35,240 --> 00:24:37,800
Once the film has been finished,
edited and projected,
180
00:24:38,009 --> 00:24:39,909
it can be seen as folklore,
181
00:24:40,111 --> 00:24:42,773
but it's you and I
who make it so.
182
00:25:30,462 --> 00:25:34,159
Drawings with ritual meanings
can be found everywhere in India. :
183
00:25:34,366 --> 00:25:38,132
on entrances to houses, on walls,
in the streets, in homes.
184
00:25:38,937 --> 00:25:42,236
The women who create them
allow only tiny variations
185
00:25:42,440 --> 00:25:44,601
on specific symbolic themes.
186
00:25:44,809 --> 00:25:47,107
Where we take aesthetic pleasure
187
00:25:47,312 --> 00:25:50,179
in the abstract floral drawings,
188
00:25:50,549 --> 00:25:53,609
these women experience
and recapture a link with the divine.
189
00:25:53,818 --> 00:25:55,945
They draw to bring
their god to them.
190
00:26:59,317 --> 00:27:02,650
Indian women are very beautiful,
especially in the southern villages.
191
00:27:02,854 --> 00:27:05,516
These women belong
to a group with tribal origins
192
00:27:05,724 --> 00:27:09,660
that merged with the caste system.
193
00:27:09,861 --> 00:27:11,453
They wear brightly colored clothing,
194
00:27:11,663 --> 00:27:14,962
predominantly red
and inlaid with tiny mirrors,
195
00:27:15,166 --> 00:27:16,997
like fabrics from Gujarat.
196
00:27:39,924 --> 00:27:43,587
Their noses, ears, necks,
wrists and ankles
197
00:27:43,795 --> 00:27:45,695
are all covered
with solid silver jewelry.
198
00:27:45,897 --> 00:27:48,127
They wear their fortune on them.
199
00:27:48,333 --> 00:27:52,292
Alongside the dirty, crumpled rupees
passed from hand to hand,
200
00:27:52,504 --> 00:27:55,632
there's this wealth
worn by all the women,
201
00:27:55,840 --> 00:27:57,967
incomprehensible
in such a poor country.
202
00:29:21,760 --> 00:29:23,660
There is much dancing in India,
203
00:29:23,862 --> 00:29:27,525
yet it's very rare to see
a dance including both sexes.
204
00:29:28,399 --> 00:29:31,391
Maybe this is a mystery of a country
which remains essentially rural,
205
00:29:31,603 --> 00:29:34,037
where an unchangeable system reigns.
206
00:29:34,239 --> 00:29:36,673
Each person knows what to expect
of his life from childhood.
207
00:29:36,875 --> 00:29:39,366
Everything is laid out in advance,
even marriages,
208
00:29:39,577 --> 00:29:43,035
governed by the exacting boundaries
of castes, subcastes and families.
209
00:30:06,171 --> 00:30:07,968
A lengthy protocol,
210
00:30:08,173 --> 00:30:10,903
a rather dreary party
despite the expense,
211
00:30:11,109 --> 00:30:13,475
and above all,
the bride's solemn expression.
212
00:30:14,078 --> 00:30:16,444
There was something poignant
about all these marriages,
213
00:30:16,648 --> 00:30:19,640
but maybe that's just
one more Western conception.
214
00:30:34,265 --> 00:30:37,257
We spent five months in India
without ever seeing love.
215
00:30:37,468 --> 00:30:40,096
We never saw a man
turn to watch a woman,
216
00:30:40,305 --> 00:30:44,173
never saw a woman whistled at, nor
a single provocative or tender gesture,
217
00:30:45,043 --> 00:30:46,977
as if there were only one sex.
218
00:30:48,346 --> 00:30:51,406
Once, however,
during our last days in Bombay,
219
00:30:51,616 --> 00:30:54,414
we came upon
this boy and girl flirting.
220
00:30:55,153 --> 00:30:57,644
We filmed these two lovers
with rapt attention.
221
00:30:57,856 --> 00:31:01,758
It's our most precious footage,
absolutely unique.
222
00:31:14,472 --> 00:31:17,600
In India we always saw
the women on one side of the street,
223
00:31:17,809 --> 00:31:19,640
the men on the other.
224
00:31:25,717 --> 00:31:29,483
What also surprised me
was the lack in Indian newspapers
225
00:31:29,687 --> 00:31:31,712
of reports of sexual offenses,
226
00:31:31,923 --> 00:31:34,824
sadistic acts, rape, exhibitionism, etc.
227
00:31:42,600 --> 00:31:46,297
Each Sunday, Indian newspapers
devote pages to marriage offers.
228
00:31:47,071 --> 00:31:49,835
These aren't lonely-hearts ads.
229
00:31:50,141 --> 00:31:52,268
They state their terms.
230
00:31:52,477 --> 00:31:55,139
I'll read an example. :
"Seeking accomplished young woman,
231
00:31:55,346 --> 00:31:57,906
light-skinned, non-kusika,
232
00:31:58,116 --> 00:32:00,744
for single man,
masanad prakaranam,
233
00:32:00,952 --> 00:32:03,512
34 years old, government employee.
234
00:32:03,721 --> 00:32:05,689
Send horoscope. "
235
00:32:06,024 --> 00:32:08,424
Marriage isn't a personal matter here.
236
00:32:08,626 --> 00:32:10,423
First and foremost
it's about caste,
237
00:32:10,628 --> 00:32:12,721
because the young woman
must not be kusika
238
00:32:12,931 --> 00:32:16,423
in order to marry the young man of
the subcaste masanad prakaranam.
239
00:32:17,201 --> 00:32:19,863
As for the horoscope,
requested without fail,
240
00:32:20,071 --> 00:32:22,403
it crushes any chance
of love at first sight.
241
00:32:23,241 --> 00:32:28,577
"Light-skinned"is a frequent demand,
but completely relative, of course,
242
00:32:28,780 --> 00:32:30,941
in a land where everyone is
more or less copper-skinned,
243
00:32:31,149 --> 00:32:35,279
but it's assigned great importance,
especially in the higher castes.
244
00:32:35,486 --> 00:32:37,477
In Northern India especially,
245
00:32:37,689 --> 00:32:39,953
a dark-skinned child's birth
into a high-ranking family
246
00:32:40,158 --> 00:32:41,648
is seen as a catastrophe.
247
00:32:53,304 --> 00:32:55,431
Saturday, February 1 7.
248
00:32:55,707 --> 00:32:58,505
Konarak.
A gigantic chariot of the sun,
249
00:32:58,710 --> 00:33:01,144
with 1 2 stone wheels,
each 10 feet high.
250
00:33:01,346 --> 00:33:04,474
Begun in the 13th century,
it was never completely finished.
251
00:33:10,421 --> 00:33:14,050
This temple is famous
for its countless bas-reliefs of all sizes
252
00:33:14,258 --> 00:33:16,249
illustrating the Kama Sutra,
253
00:33:16,461 --> 00:33:19,362
the Indian encyclopedia
of erotic techniques.
254
00:33:58,669 --> 00:34:03,197
Indian tourists listen calmly to the guide.
Apparently, they aren't shocked.
255
00:34:03,408 --> 00:34:05,069
Is it just a pose?
256
00:34:05,276 --> 00:34:08,040
Victorian England
brought its Puritanism here
257
00:34:08,246 --> 00:34:10,146
and left a profound mark on India.
258
00:34:10,348 --> 00:34:15,411
In Indian films, couples never kiss.
It's forbidden by the censors.
259
00:34:49,654 --> 00:34:52,179
In the crowd of Indians,
we meet two young Frenchmen.
260
00:34:52,623 --> 00:34:57,322
They belong to the international
brotherhood of penniless travelers
261
00:34:57,528 --> 00:35:00,019
that journalists call
"beatniks" or "hippies. "
262
00:35:00,965 --> 00:35:03,832
Lots of Europeans who come here
263
00:35:04,102 --> 00:35:06,070
are touched by grace.
264
00:35:06,270 --> 00:35:11,367
After only two weeks in India,
they claim they're Buddhist
265
00:35:12,577 --> 00:35:14,204
or Hindu.
266
00:35:15,847 --> 00:35:20,147
Some just make the trip on a lark
and smoke hashish all day.
267
00:35:20,351 --> 00:35:24,219
That's all they do-smoke and sit around.
They don't go anywhere.
268
00:35:25,089 --> 00:35:29,048
All they're interested in here
is being able to smoke freely.
269
00:35:29,961 --> 00:35:31,394
That's all they care about.
270
00:35:31,596 --> 00:35:34,292
For a lot of people,
271
00:35:34,499 --> 00:35:38,799
drugs are an end in themselves
272
00:35:39,637 --> 00:35:41,070
instead of a means.
273
00:35:41,272 --> 00:35:43,832
Hashish can be a way
of opening yourself more fully
274
00:35:44,041 --> 00:35:48,205
to music or poetry or love.
275
00:35:49,480 --> 00:35:51,744
It can be a means
of accessing those things,
276
00:35:52,049 --> 00:35:54,677
but for a lot of people
it's an end in itself.
277
00:35:54,886 --> 00:35:57,855
They say, "We can smoke hashish.
We're free and happy."
278
00:36:01,192 --> 00:36:04,184
India is too beautiful,
too full of things.
279
00:36:04,395 --> 00:36:06,056
It makes you want to stay.
280
00:36:06,264 --> 00:36:10,997
We thought we'd stay three months,
but now we don't want to leave.
281
00:36:12,904 --> 00:36:16,431
We've gotten used
to the Indian rhythm of life
282
00:36:16,641 --> 00:36:18,734
and have adopted it.
283
00:36:19,477 --> 00:36:21,877
When we left France we still had...
284
00:36:24,282 --> 00:36:26,773
the defects of Western society.
285
00:36:27,552 --> 00:36:30,521
We were basically
selfish individualists.
286
00:36:31,222 --> 00:36:33,713
Here you realize
that money doesn't matter.
287
00:36:34,458 --> 00:36:37,985
The Americans send
their Peace Corps here
288
00:36:38,196 --> 00:36:42,929
to teach the people to fish intensively.
289
00:36:43,134 --> 00:36:45,329
The people aren't interested.
290
00:36:45,736 --> 00:36:49,672
They have enough to live on
and don't need more.
291
00:36:50,241 --> 00:36:53,210
They don't feel the need for more.
292
00:36:53,511 --> 00:36:56,105
That's an Indian character trait.
293
00:36:56,314 --> 00:36:59,181
They won't work more
than they need to.
294
00:37:00,051 --> 00:37:05,114
The poorest man with a rickshaw -
295
00:37:05,323 --> 00:37:08,815
ask him to take you somewhere,
and he'll say no if he doesn't want to,
296
00:37:09,026 --> 00:37:11,961
even if you give him money.
297
00:37:12,163 --> 00:37:16,930
He earns his three rupees daily
and that's enough. He doesn't need four.
298
00:37:17,902 --> 00:37:21,599
The fisherman fishes until he catches
his two pounds each day.
299
00:37:21,806 --> 00:37:25,936
He's not interested
in catching more.
300
00:37:26,143 --> 00:37:31,775
Why? To have more money?
He's not interested.
301
00:37:31,983 --> 00:37:34,577
- You're not interested in money?
- Absolutely not.
302
00:37:35,286 --> 00:37:40,053
Unfortunately, in the society we live in,
we need money.
303
00:37:40,691 --> 00:37:43,819
When you live in modern society,
you need money to live.
304
00:37:44,028 --> 00:37:47,054
You can't live without money.
305
00:37:48,532 --> 00:37:50,830
You'd like to get rid of it?
306
00:37:51,035 --> 00:37:52,764
At our level, yes.
307
00:37:52,970 --> 00:37:57,100
We live in a parallel society,
completely different from modern society.
308
00:37:58,376 --> 00:38:00,344
Capitalism and all that.
309
00:38:00,544 --> 00:38:03,877
If we have enough to live on,
that's enough.
310
00:38:04,081 --> 00:38:06,709
We don't want
to produce things to export.
311
00:38:06,917 --> 00:38:10,045
We produce what we need
for ourselves.
312
00:38:10,254 --> 00:38:14,315
We don't need the extra money.
313
00:38:14,992 --> 00:38:19,395
By farming the land,
making our own tables and furniture,
314
00:38:20,931 --> 00:38:23,058
binding our own books.
315
00:38:23,668 --> 00:38:26,193
Knowledge won't be limited
to a bunch of dusty intellectuals.
316
00:38:26,404 --> 00:38:29,567
The days of books
and grandiose thought are over.
317
00:38:29,774 --> 00:38:32,675
We have to know
how to farm the land.
318
00:38:34,578 --> 00:38:38,708
The only religion will be
that of love and friendship
319
00:38:39,317 --> 00:38:40,944
and life.
320
00:38:41,152 --> 00:38:45,851
If it works, maybe someone will say,
"Hey, that's a good idea.
321
00:38:46,090 --> 00:38:50,322
I'll do the same thing here."
And another will say the same.
322
00:38:50,728 --> 00:38:52,093
Maybe a lot of people.
323
00:38:52,596 --> 00:38:55,759
In Madras, three weeks later,
we ran into Bernard and Didier again.
324
00:38:56,100 --> 00:38:57,727
They'd changed a lot.
325
00:38:57,935 --> 00:39:03,498
As we went further south,
the climate got rough.
326
00:39:05,276 --> 00:39:08,404
I got sick as soon as I got here.
327
00:39:09,413 --> 00:39:12,473
Ever since I got to Madras,
I haven't been able to eat.
328
00:39:12,683 --> 00:39:14,947
I throw up. My head hurts.
329
00:39:16,220 --> 00:39:17,881
You've decided to go home?
330
00:39:18,089 --> 00:39:20,250
Yes, I wrote to my parents.
331
00:39:20,458 --> 00:39:24,656
They're sending money
and a plane ticket.
332
00:39:27,031 --> 00:39:29,795
Didier has made up his mind
to go home.
333
00:39:30,701 --> 00:39:34,102
He doesn't want
to try Indian doctors or medicine.
334
00:39:35,005 --> 00:39:38,873
To go back suddenly like this,
335
00:39:39,076 --> 00:39:41,772
straight from Madras to Paris,
is going to be really strange.
336
00:39:46,751 --> 00:39:49,584
I'm going to Goa.
337
00:39:49,787 --> 00:39:52,483
- By yourself?
- All by myself, like a big boy.
338
00:39:52,690 --> 00:39:54,783
To Goa, then back to Delhi?
339
00:39:57,061 --> 00:39:59,154
Then Pakistan.
340
00:40:03,801 --> 00:40:06,895
Young people from Sweden,
Germany, England, Australia -
341
00:40:07,104 --> 00:40:09,800
all the industrialized nations -
342
00:40:10,007 --> 00:40:12,737
have come here, like me,
to find something else.
343
00:40:12,943 --> 00:40:16,037
But none of us
can escape our civilization.
344
00:40:17,014 --> 00:40:20,279
I'm afraid they're dreaming India,
like I am.
345
00:40:42,373 --> 00:40:45,774
In Goa, on one of the immense beaches
inhabited by hippies,
346
00:40:46,076 --> 00:40:50,012
an Italian nudist
spoke of his disillusionment.
347
00:40:50,748 --> 00:40:52,773
What were you looking for?
348
00:40:52,983 --> 00:40:55,281
A new way of living.
349
00:40:56,854 --> 00:41:00,449
To learn to live a certain way.
350
00:41:00,658 --> 00:41:05,721
I wanted spirituality in my life
that was missing in Italy.
351
00:41:05,930 --> 00:41:10,492
I felt something was missing,
that there were other things to do.
352
00:41:11,969 --> 00:41:14,460
That's what I came to find,
but I didn't find it.
353
00:41:14,672 --> 00:41:19,871
Maybe what I was looking for
was just an idea I had.
354
00:41:20,077 --> 00:41:22,739
An idea of my own.
355
00:41:22,947 --> 00:41:27,384
Just an idea in my own head
from reading books.
356
00:41:27,585 --> 00:41:32,784
For example, I was really interested
in the life of Gandhi.
357
00:41:34,158 --> 00:41:36,388
It really intrigued me.
358
00:41:36,594 --> 00:41:42,328
But the idea Gandhi represented
can't be found here anymore.
359
00:41:59,416 --> 00:42:02,249
Yes, India isn't easy for foreigners.
360
00:42:04,522 --> 00:42:06,922
It started with the American rental car,
361
00:42:07,124 --> 00:42:11,584
an exception in India,
where late-model imported cars are rare.
362
00:42:12,263 --> 00:42:14,197
The tires were completely bald.
363
00:42:14,398 --> 00:42:17,265
The manager of the rental agency
offers to change them,
364
00:42:17,468 --> 00:42:19,197
but there's one problem. :
365
00:42:19,403 --> 00:42:23,100
There are no tires this size in India.
They're not produced here.
366
00:42:23,307 --> 00:42:26,504
But they'll find some
approximately the same size.
367
00:42:26,710 --> 00:42:31,443
That "approximately" will mean a dozen
flat tires over the next two months,
368
00:42:31,649 --> 00:42:34,345
the same scene
repeated over and over.
369
00:42:34,552 --> 00:42:38,511
Ten mechanics take the tires off,
remount them and take them off again,
370
00:42:38,722 --> 00:42:42,317
trying to solve the impossible problem
of the curve of the rim.
371
00:42:58,008 --> 00:43:02,206
They possess infinite patience.
Time doesn't seem to exist.
372
00:43:02,413 --> 00:43:04,438
It can take an entire afternoon.
373
00:43:04,648 --> 00:43:06,980
Once or twice,
due to our poor Western upbringing,
374
00:43:07,184 --> 00:43:08,776
we threw an angry fit,
375
00:43:08,986 --> 00:43:11,819
an ugly-and quite useless-reflex.
376
00:43:45,589 --> 00:43:47,614
Tuesday, February 27.
377
00:43:47,825 --> 00:43:49,690
I awoke very early.
378
00:43:49,893 --> 00:43:52,828
The light is still undecided,
very soft and sad,
379
00:43:53,030 --> 00:43:54,725
as it often is in the tropics.
380
00:43:54,932 --> 00:43:57,127
I'm suddenly projected
15 years into the past,
381
00:43:57,334 --> 00:43:59,564
to early mornings in the Seychelles,
382
00:43:59,770 --> 00:44:01,431
on beaches like this.
383
00:44:01,639 --> 00:44:04,233
I was 20, shooting my first film.
384
00:44:04,441 --> 00:44:08,901
The tropics enchanted me, the entire
world one big promise of happiness.
385
00:44:09,813 --> 00:44:14,011
Suddenly, the fishermen in front of me
are replaced by others.
386
00:44:14,218 --> 00:44:16,618
Once again
memory fills the foreground.
387
00:44:16,820 --> 00:44:19,550
Once again, I'm incapable
of living in the present,
388
00:44:19,757 --> 00:44:22,282
of feeling it, of touching it.
389
00:44:26,196 --> 00:44:29,165
Even in the Seychelles,
reality escaped me,
390
00:44:29,566 --> 00:44:33,366
that elusive harmony
between men, light and landscape.
391
00:44:33,804 --> 00:44:37,740
I had to reinvent it, modify it,
392
00:44:37,941 --> 00:44:39,841
project onto it
my dreams and memories.
393
00:44:40,044 --> 00:44:41,841
I had to destroy it.
394
00:44:42,046 --> 00:44:44,412
Westerner, filmmaker,
395
00:44:44,615 --> 00:44:47,516
time's tamer, time's slave.
396
00:46:09,600 --> 00:46:11,397
The sun is now high in the sky.
397
00:46:11,602 --> 00:46:14,332
The catch is poor, as it often is
on the Madras coast.
398
00:46:15,038 --> 00:46:18,599
We film the faces,
the order and beauty of things.
399
00:46:30,220 --> 00:46:31,744
Suddenly, the scene changes.
400
00:46:31,955 --> 00:46:33,946
A stranger joins the fisherman.
401
00:46:34,158 --> 00:46:36,991
He stands out in his city clothes.
402
00:46:37,194 --> 00:46:39,992
He's come to buy their fish,
403
00:46:40,197 --> 00:46:43,394
to take it on his bicycle
to sell in the neighboring city.
404
00:46:43,600 --> 00:46:45,329
He's not a big buyer,
405
00:46:45,536 --> 00:46:49,529
but for these fishermen, as in the rest
of the world, he's the enemy,
406
00:46:49,740 --> 00:46:52,538
a middleman
who won't pay full price.
407
00:46:52,743 --> 00:46:55,337
So begins an argument over pennies.
408
00:46:56,280 --> 00:47:00,614
It's the same story over and over,
the old story of exploitation.
409
00:49:30,801 --> 00:49:33,463
These fishermen
are in a caste of their own,
410
00:49:33,670 --> 00:49:36,696
or more precisely, a non-caste -
unclean, untouchable.
411
00:49:36,907 --> 00:49:41,105
They live on the bare sand, sleeping in
huts made of leaves or under the stars.
412
00:49:41,545 --> 00:49:44,776
Sometimes they move further down
this stretch of beach.
413
00:49:44,982 --> 00:49:46,882
Then they return.
414
00:49:47,084 --> 00:49:50,178
They aren't sailors.
They can only fish from the shore.
415
00:49:50,387 --> 00:49:52,378
That's how they've always done it.
416
00:49:56,493 --> 00:49:59,462
Another argument breaks out.
Once again it's about money.
417
00:50:00,130 --> 00:50:03,588
The woman is the partner and ally
of the fishmonger on the bicycle.
418
00:51:01,324 --> 00:51:02,848
This is my film.
419
00:51:03,060 --> 00:51:05,995
On one hand, an entirely subjective
reflection on my interior world,
420
00:51:06,530 --> 00:51:08,361
but on the other,
just the opposite. :
421
00:51:08,565 --> 00:51:11,125
the economic realities
that won't let me escape into dreams.
422
00:51:11,334 --> 00:51:14,531
An incessant back-and-forth
between myself and the things before me.
423
00:51:15,038 --> 00:51:17,666
Almost always,
reality gains the upper hand.
424
00:51:35,592 --> 00:51:40,291
Due to the state
of the original material,
425
00:51:40,497 --> 00:51:47,130
certain defects could not be removed
in the restoration of this film.
426
00:51:47,337 --> 00:51:49,737
Translation by LYNN MASSEY
for SUBTEXT SUBTITLING
427
00:51:50,737 --> 00:52:00,737
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