All language subtitles for Aerial America Alaska Part 2 Alaskas Call of the Wild 1080p

IT’S WHERE HUMANS FIRST SET FOOT
ON AMERICAN SOIL.

A WILD LAND

\hTHAT’S BEEN BECKONING
TO OUTSIDERS EVER SINCE.

WHERE LAKES GLISTEN

\h\h\hLIKE WINDOWS
INTO PARALLEL WORLDS,

\h\hGIANT CREATURES
RISE FROM THE DEPTH,

AND OTHERS THRIVE
IN ITS ARCTIC AIR.

FOR CENTURIES,

THOUSANDS HAVE BEEN ANSWERING
\h\hALASKA’S CALL OF THE WILD.

IN THE 18th CENTURY,

\hIT WAS RUSSIAN TRADERS
SEEKING RICHES FROM FUR.

A HUNDRED YEARS LATER,

HOPEFUL PROSPECTORS
WERE HIKING UP A TRAIL

KNOWN AS "THE MEANEST
32 MILES IN THE WORLD."

AND TODAY,

MODERN-DAY TREASURE SEEKERS
ARE ARRIVING BY HELICOPTER,

TO SEARCH FOR COPPER,
\h\hSILVER, AND GOLD.

MANY COME TO ALASKA
JUST TO BE LEFT ALONE.

OTHERS, TO UNLOCK THE SECRETS
\h\h\h\hOF OUR WARMING PLANET,

OR TO SOAR ACROSS THE LANDSCAPES

THAT THEY JUST CAN’T FIND
\h\h\hIN THE LOWER 48.

\h\h\h\h\hBUT ALASKA’S
POSTCARD-PERFECT WILDERNESS

HOLDS GREAT DANGER, TOO.

IT WAS HERE THAT A YOUNG
SURVIVALIST MET HIS FATE

AFTER CROSSING A RIVER
\h\h\hOF NO RETURN,

\h\h\h\h\hAND WHERE
ONE COUPLE’S EXPERIMENT

LIVING WITH AN APEX PREDATOR

CAME TO A GRISLY END.

\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\hBUT TODAY,
SOME STILL DARE TO TRY AND CROSS

\h\hA THOUSAND MILES
OF FROZEN WILDERNESS,

\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\hHOPING TO WIN
"THE LAST GREAT RACE ON EARTH."

\h\h\hALL THIS TO ANSWER
ALASKA’S CALL OF THE WILD.

\h\h\h\h\hEVERY YEAR,
ALASKA’S CALL OF THE WILD

LURES A FEW RECKLESS ADVENTURERS
FURTHER INTO DANGER

THAN THEY’RE READY TO GO.

\h\h\hAND THEY’RE NOT ALL CLIMBING
THE STATE’S SNOW-COVERED PEAKS.

\h\hPERIL OFTEN AWAITS THOSE WHO
EXPLORE ALASKA’S VALLEYS, TOO.

IN 1992, A YOUNG SURVIVALIST
NAMED CHRISTOPHER McCANDLESS

\h\h\h\h\hHITCHHIKED INTO ALASKA
ON A QUEST FOR SELF-DISCOVERY,

INSPIRED BY WRITERS
HENRY DAVID THOREAU

AND JACK LONDON.

\h\h\h\h\h\h\hON APRIL 28th,
HIS LAST RIDE DROPPED HIM OFF

\h\h\h\hAT THE BEGINNING
OF A RUGGED WILDERNESS ROAD

KNOWN AS THE STAMPEDE TRAIL.

IT WAS FIRST BLAZED ACROSS
\hTHIS VALLEY IN THE 1930s

\h\hBY A PROSPECTOR
NAMED EARL PILGRIM.

THIRTY YEARS LATER,

\h\hTHE STATE OF ALASKA TURNED
PILGRIM’S TRAIL INTO A ROAD.

BUT A BRIDGE WAS NEVER BUILT

OVER ONE THE VALLEY’S
\hBIGGEST OBSTACLES:

THE WILD TEKLANIKA RIVER.

\h\hWHEN McCANDLESS FORDED THE
TEKLANIKA ON FOOT THAT APRIL,

THE WATER LEVEL WAS STILL LOW.

\h\h\h\h\h\h\hSNOW AND ICE
ON THE SURROUNDING MOUNTAINS

HADN’T YET THAWED.

HE MADE HIS WAY ACROSS

\h\hAND CONTINUED WEST
ON THE OLD MINING TRAIL,

\h\h\h\h\hHOPING TO WALK ALL THE WAY
TO THE SHORES OF THE BERING SEA

WHILE LIVING OFF THE LAND.

BUT AS HE REACHED THIS CLEARING,
HE DISCOVERED BUS 142.

WORKERS BUILDING THE ROAD

\h\h\hHAD USED THIS 1946
INTERNATIONAL HARVESTER BUS

AS A MOBILE SHELTER.

McCANDLESS ALSO DECIDED
TO USE IT AS HIS BASE

AS HE PREPARED FOR HIS JOURNEY
\h\h\h\h\hDEEPER INTO THE WILD.

\hHE ARRIVED HERE WITH NOT
MUCH MORE THAN A FEW BOOKS,

A 10-POUND BAG OF RICE,

A GUN,

AND 400 ROUNDS OF AMMUNITION.

\h\h\h\h\h\h\hOVER THE NEXT FEW WEEKS
HE MADE FORAYS ACROSS THE VALLEY

\h\hTO TEST HOW FAR
INTO THE WILDERNESS

HE WAS WILLING TO GO,

\h\h\h\hAND TO FIND FOOD
THAT COULD KEEP HIM ALIVE.

HE SHOT AND ATE SQUIRRELS,
\h\hPORCUPINES, AND QUAIL,

AND EVEN A MOOSE.

BUT WHEN THE MOOSE MEAT SPOILED
\h\h\h\h\h\hBEFORE HE COULD CURE IT,

\h\hMcCANDLESS BEGAN TO REALIZE
HE MIGHT BE IN OVER HIS HEAD.

\h\hAFTER TWO MONTHS IN ISOLATION,
HE DECIDED IT WAS TIME TO LEAVE.

\h\h\h\h\hBUT WHEN HE HEADED
BACK DOWN THE STAMPEDE TRAIL,

\h\h\hHE DISCOVERED
HE HAD WAITED TOO LONG.

\h\h\hSUMMER SNOWMELT
HAD FLOODED THE RIVER

THAT HE HAD FORDED
\h\hIN THE SPRING.

\h\h\h\hTHE TEKLANIKA
WAS NOW A RAGING TORRENT.

McCANDLESS KNEW THAT IF HE WADED
INTO ITS DARK TURBULENT WATERS,

HE WOULD BE SWEPT AWAY
\h\h\hTO HIS DEATH.

\h\h\h\hSO HE RETURNED
TO THE SAFETY OF BUS 142,

\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\hWITH NO CHOICE
BUT TO CONTINUE HIS EXPERIMENT

IN WILDERNESS SURVIVAL.

BUT OVER THE NEXT FEW WEEKS,

McCANDLESS STARTED RUNNING OUT
\h\h\h\h\h\h\hOF THINGS TO EAT.

HIS BODY GREW WEAKER AND WEAKER.

SOME SAY HE MAY ALSO HAVE BEEN
\h\h\h\h\hPOISONED BY POTATO SEEDS

THAT HE ATE IN HIS DESPERATION
\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\hTO STAY ALIVE.

\hSLOWLY, HE BEGAN
TO STARVE TO DEATH.

AS HE FADED AWAY,

\hMcCANDLESS SCRIBBLED
HIS THOUGHTS AND EMOTIONS

INTO A DIARY,

\h\h\h\h\h\h\hIN BRIEF NOTES
ABOUT HIS LONELINESS, HUNGER,

AND GROWING FEAR OF DEATH.

"EXTREMELY WEAK," HE WROTE

IN ONE OF HIS LAST ENTRIES
\h\h\h\h\hON JULY 30th.

"MUCH TROUBLE JUST TO STAND UP.

STARVING.

GREAT JEOPARDY."

IN HIS FINAL ENTRY,
\hMcCANDLESS WROTE,

"I HAVE HAD A HAPPY LIFE
\h\hAND THANK THE LORD.

\h\h\h\h\hGOODBYE,
AND MAY GOD BLESS ALL."

HUNTERS DISCOVERED HIS BODY
\h\h\h\h\hINSIDE BUS 142

A FEW WEEKS LATER.

HIS JOURNAL WAS BY HIS SIDE.

THE STORY IT TOLD

INSPIRED JOHN KRAKAUER’S
\h\hBEST-SELLING BOOK,

"INTO THE WILD,"

AND A MOVIE BY SEAN PENN.

THEY TRANSFORMED THE WAYWARD
\h\hHIKER’S FOLLY INTO LEGEND

AND TURNED BUS 142 INTO A MAGNET
FOR MISFITS AND DREAMERS.

AS MANY AS 100 PILGRIMS
COME HERE SOME SUMMERS

\h\h\hTO SEE WHERE
McCANDLESS PERISHED.

\h\h\h\hMANY DON’T SEEM TO REALIZE
THEY’RE RISKING THE SAME FATE.

IN 2010, A WOMAN WHO HAD COME
\hALL THE WAY FROM SWITZERLAND

TO VISIT THE BUS

DROWNED IN THE TEKLANIKA

IN THE VERY SPOT

\h\hWHERE McCANDLESS
TRIED TO CROSS IN ’92.

THAT HASN’T STOPPED A STEADY
\hSTREAM OF CURIOSITY SEEKERS

\hFROM MAKING THE TREK
TO SEE THE ABANDONED BUS.

THEY RISK EVERYTHING

\h\h\hJUST TO EXPERIENCE
ALASKA’S CALL OF THE WILD,

\hJUST AS OTHERS HAVE
FOR THOUSANDS OF YEARS.

SCIENTISTS BELIEVE

\h\hTHAT THE FIRST HUMANS TO SET
EYES ON THE ALASKAN WILDERNESS

ARRIVED HERE AS EARLY
AS 20,000 YEARS AGO.

\h\h\h\h\hTHEY CAME
FROM WHAT’S NOW SIBERIA

\h\h\h\h\hAND TRAVELED EAST ON FOOT
FOR MORE THAN A THOUSAND MILES,

\h\hACROSS WHAT IS KNOWN
AS THE BERING LAND BRIDGE,

OR BERINGIA,

\h\hTHAT ONCE LINKED
ASIA AND NORTH AMERICA.

\h\h\hBUT AT THE END
OF THE LAST ICE AGE,

\h\h\h\hTHE WATER FROM
MASSIVE MELTING GLACIERS

\h\h\hCOVERED BERINGIA WITH
THE BERING AND CHUKCHI SEAS.

THOSE EARLY TRAVELERS
BECAME THE FIRST HUMANS

\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\hTO EXPLORE
THE NORTH AMERICAN CONTINENT.

THEIR DESCENDANTS

WOULD EVENTUALLY MAKE IT
\h\h\hALL THE WAY DOWN

TO THE TIP OF SOUTH AMERICA.

\h\hTODAY, ALASKA IS STILL HOME
TO SOME OF THEIR CLOSEST KIN.

\h\h\hHERE ON ADMIRALTY ISLAND,
IN THE LITTLE TOWN OF ANGOON,

MEMBERS OF THE TLINGIT BEAR CLAN
STILL LIVE IN A SPOT

THEIR PEOPLE HAVE CALLED HOME
\h\h\h\hFOR THOUSANDS OF YEARS.

\h\h\hSOME CONTINUE
TO MAKE THEIR LIVING

BY HUNTING AND FISHING,

JUST AS THEIR ANCESTORS DID.

\h\h\h\h\h\hANCIENT TLINGIT STORIES
TELL OF A WORLD FULL OF SPIRITS

AND OF A FIGURE CALLED RAVEN

THAT GAVE THEM MANY
OF THEIR TRADITIONS.

BUT IN THE 18th CENTURY,

SOME AMBITIOUS NEWCOMERS
\h\h\h\hFROM THE WEST

\h\h\h\h\h\hTURNED THE TLINGIT’S
TRADITIONAL WORLD UPSIDE DOWN.

\hRUSSIANS BEGAN SETTLING
ALASKA’S SHORES IN 1784,

\h\hON A SEARCH FOR PELTS
FOR THE EUROPEAN FUR TRADE

AND NEW TERRITORY
FOR RUSSIA’S CZAR.

IN 1799 THEY ARRIVED HERE,

IN THE TLINGIT COMMUNITY
\h\h\h\hOF SHEE ATIKA,

\h\h\h\h\h\h\hNOW THE SITE
OF THE ALASKAN TOWN OF SITKA.

\h\h\hAFTER TWO YEARS
OF UNEASY COEXISTENCE

\hTHE TLINGIT PEOPLE
TURNED ON THE RUSSIANS,

\h\hKILLING MOST OF THEM
AND DRIVING THE REST AWAY.

IN 1804, THE RUSSIANS RETURNED

\hAND WENT TO WAR
WITH THE TLINGIT.

HERE IN SHEE ATIKA,

MEMBERS OF THE TRIBE STOOD
THEIR GROUND INSIDE A FORT,

ON A SITE THAT’S NOW MARKED
BY THIS SINGLE TOTEM POLE.

AFTER A SIX-DAY SIEGE,

THE RUSSIANS FINALLY FORCED
\h\h\h\h\hTHEIR WAY IN,

\h\h\h\h\h\hONLY TO DISCOVER
THAT THE TLINGIT HAD ESCAPED

UNDER THE COVER OF DARKNESS.

\h\hTHE VICTORIOUS RUSSIANS
RENAMED THE TLINGIT VILLAGE

"NEW ARCHANGEL."

\hFOR THE NEXT 60 YEARS,
IT SERVED AS THE CAPITAL

\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\hOF RUSSIA’S
GROWING NORTH AMERICAN EMPIRE,

WHICH STRETCHED ALL THE WAY DOWN
TO SAN FRANCISCO.

BUT IN THE 1860s,
CZAR ALEXANDER II

\hDECIDED TO SELL ALASKA
TO RAISE SOME EXTRA CASH.

HE FOUND A BUYER

IN U.S. SECRETARY OF STATE
\h\h\h\hWILLIAM SEWARD,

WHO AGREED TO PURCHASE IT
\h\h\h\hSIGHT UNSEEN.

ON OCTOBER 18, 1867,
\h\h\hHERE IN SITKA,

ALASKA WAS OFFICIALLY
\h\h\h\hTRANSFERRED

TO THE UNITED STATES.

AT A PRICE OF JUST OVER
\h\h\h\h$7 MILLION,

IT WAS QUITE A BARGAIN,
\h\hEVEN AT THE TIME.

THAT DIDN’T STOP CRITICS
WHO HAD NEVER SEEN ALASKA

\hFROM DUBBING IT
"SEWARD’S FOLLY."

\h\h\h\h\h\hBUT THOSE
WHO’D ACTUALLY BEEN HERE

KNEW THE SECRETARY OF STATE HAD
MADE A VERY SHREWD DEAL INDEED.

\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\hCOVERING MORE THAN
A HALF A MILLION SQUARE MILES--

AN AREA TWICE AS LARGE
\h\h\h\hAS TEXAS--

IT INCLUDES SOME OF THE WILDEST
\h\h\h\hAND MOST DRAMATIC LANDSCAPE

IN THE NATION.

FROM PRISTINE FJORDS,

\h\h\hWHERE TOWERING MOUNTAINS
TUMBLE RIGHT DOWN TO THE SEA,

TO AN ISLAND WHERE THE LARGEST
\h\h\h\h\h\hBROWN BEARS ON EARTH

GATHER TO FEAST,

\h\hTO MILE AFTER MILE
OF REMOTE INLAND TUNDRA,

TO THE HIGHEST PEAK
\hIN NORTH AMERICA,

AN ICY WORLD

\h\hTHAT ONLY THE HARDIEST
ADVENTURERS DARE TO ENTER.

IT’S EASY TO SEE

\h\h\h\h\h\hHOW GETTING ALL THIS
FOR JUST A FEW MILLION DOLLARS

\h\h\h\h\h\hWAS LIKELY
ONE OF THE BEST INVESTMENTS

THE UNITED STATES HAS EVER MADE.

ALASKA HAS BEEN A STUNNING JEWEL
IN AMERICA’S CROWN EVER SINCE.

ALMOST 40 YEARS LATER, IN 1906,

\h\h\h\hTHE CAPITAL OF THE ALASKAN
TERRITORY WAS MOVED FROM SITKA

TO A BOOMING MINING TOWN
\h\h\hON THE MAINLAND,

KNOWN AS JUNEAU.

IN 1912,

\hA NEW MANSION WAS BUILT HERE
FOR THE TERRITORIAL GOVERNOR,

\h\h\hON THIS BLUFF
OVERLOOKING DOWNTOWN.

WITH 14,400 SQUARE FEET TO ROAM,

IT WAS DESIGNED TO SHINE
\h\h\h\hLIKE A BEACON

OVER THE ALASKAN TERRITORY

\h\hAT A TIME WHEN
MOST PEOPLE UP HERE

WERE STILL LIVING
IN MINER’S CABINS.

STRANGELY ENOUGH,

\hTHERE ARE NO ROADS
IN OR OUT OF JUNEAU,

MAKING IT THE ONLY U.S. CAPITAL
\h\hTHAT’S NOT ACCESSIBLE BY CAR.

\hFOR THOUSANDS OF TOURISTS
WHO ARRIVE HERE EACH SPRING

\h\h\h\hON A FLEET
OF GIANT CRUISE SHIPS,

\hJUNEAU’S ISOLATION
IS PART OF ITS CHARM.

BUT THERE’S SOMETHING ELSE THAT
\hMAKES ALASKA’S CAPITAL UNIQUE.

SOAR OVER THE GREEN HILLS
\h\h\hJUST ABOVE TOWN,

\h\h\h\hAND SUDDENLY
YOU’RE IN ANOTHER WORLD,

FLYING OVER THE MASSIVE
\hMENDENHALL GLACIER.

THIS GIANT RIVER OF ICE
\hSTRETCHES 12 MILES.

WATER FROM MELTING ICE
\h\h\hAT ITS EDGES

CASCADES DOWN INTO RIVERS BELOW,

\h\h\hJUST AS IT HAS
FOR THOUSANDS OF YEARS.

TODAY, THE MENDENHALL IS ONE OF
ALASKA’S MOST VISITED GLACIERS,

\h\hPROBABLY BECAUSE
IT’S SO EASY TO REACH.

BUT TRAVEL UP TO ITS SOURCE,

\h\h\hAND IT FEELS LIKE
YOU’RE ON ANOTHER PLANET.

THIS IS THE JUNEAU ICE FIELD,

A 1,500-SQUARE-MILE EXPANSE
\h\h\h\h\hOF SNOW AND ICE

THAT FEEDS THE MENDENHALL

AND 37 OTHER GLACIERS
\h\h\hIN THE REGION.

\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\hAMAZINGLY,
THE MAJORITY OF THIS ICE FIELD

\h\h\h\h\hIS WITHIN
THE JUNEAU CITY LIMITS.

BUT THERE’S MORE TO SEE UP HERE
\h\h\h\h\h\hTHAN JUST SNOW AND ICE.

THESE TINY SPECKS

\h\h\h\h\h\hARE THE RESIDENTS
OF AN EXCLUSIVE TRAINING CAMP

FOR SOME OF ALASKA’S
MOST ELITE ATHLETES...

SLED DOGS.

\h\h\h\h\h\h\hTHE EXTREME WEATHER
AND SEEMINGLY ENDLESS SNOW HERE

MAKE THE MENDENHALL
\h\hA PERFECT SPOT

\h\h\h\hTO GET THESE DOGS
USED TO FREEZING CONDITIONS

AND PREPARE THEM FOR ALASKA’S
\h\hMOST FAMOUS SPORTING EVENT,

A CONTEST THAT SENDS
\h\hDOGS AND HUMANS

\h\h\h\h\hTEARING THROUGH HUNDREDS
OF MILES OF ALASKAN WILDERNESS

IN A BATTLE OF ENDURANCE,
\hSTRATEGY, AND STAMINA

\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\hTHEY CALL
THE LAST GREAT RACE ON EARTH.

IT’S MARCH 3, 2013,

\h\hAND HUNDREDS OF ALASKANS AND
VISITORS FROM AROUND THE WORLD

ARE ALREADY GATHERING
\h\hON A FROZEN LAKE

NORTHWEST OF ANCHORAGE.

THEY’RE HERE FOR THE START

\h\h\hOF ONE OF THE MOST FAMOUS
SPORTING EVENTS IN THE WORLD:

THE IDITAROD TRAIL
\h\hSLED DOG RACE.

OVER 60 DRIVERS, OR "MUSHERS,"

\h\h\h\h\h\h\hHAVE SIGNED UP
FOR THIS YEAR’S COMPETITION--

A BRUTAL 1,049-MILE RACE
\hACROSS SNOW AND ICE.

\h\h\h\hHERE AT THE STAGING AREA,
THEY’RE PREPARING THEIR TEAMS.

BEFORE THEY START

THEY HAVE TO CHECK
\hAND DOUBLE-CHECK

\h\h\h\h\h\hEVERY PART OF THE HARNESS
THAT TIES THE DOGS TO EACH OTHER

AND TO THE SLED.

ANY HINT OF A CUT PAW
\h\h\h\hOR SORE LEG

WILL GET A DOG PULLED
\h\h\hFROM THE TEAM.

\h\hBUT THE MUSHERS KNOW
IT’S BETTER SAFE THAN SORRY

WHEN IT COMES TO THE GRUELING
TEST OF STAMINA AND ENDURANCE

THAT LIES AHEAD.

\h\h\h\hBY THE TIME THE DOGS
MAKE IT TO THE STARTING LINE,

THEY’RE RARING TO GO.

\h\h\h\h\hVOLUNTEERS
HAVE TO KEEP THEM STEADY.

A LOTTERY DETERMINES

\h\h\h\h\hIN WHICH ORDER
THE MUSHERS START THE RACE.

FINALLY, THE COUNTDOWN IS OVER.

THE RACE IS ON!

[CROWD CHEERING]

CROWDS CHEER AS THE FIRST MUSHER
OF THE 41st ANNUAL IDITAROD

HEADS OUT ACROSS THE LAKE.

FOR MANY HERE,

\h\h\h\h\h\h\hTHIS IS THE LAST CHANCE
FOR THEM TO CHEER THE MUSHERS ON

BEFORE THEY HEAD INTO THE WILD.

\h\h\h\hTHE MUSHERS’ STARTS
ARE STAGGERED BY TWO MINUTES

SO THE DOG TEAMS DON’T GET
TANGLED EARLY ON THE TRAIL.

\h\h\hANOTHER MUSHER
HEADS OUT OF THE GATES

AS ROCK MUSIC BLARES
AND THE CROWDS CHEER.

THE MEN, WOMEN, AND DOGS

\h\h\h\h\hTHAT COMPETE
IN THE IDITAROD EVERY YEAR

ARE JOINING IN A LONG TRADITION.

THE FIRST ALASKANS
\h\hUSED DOG SLEDS

\h\h\h\hLONG BEFORE
EUROPEANS ARRIVED HERE.

LATER, RUSSIAN INVADERS
\h\h\hUSED THEM, TOO.

IN THE 1880s

\h\hAMERICAN PROSPECTORS RODE
DOG SLEDS INTO SNOWY REGIONS

THEY COULDN’T GET TO
\h\h\hANY OTHER WAY.

\h\h\h\hPIONEERS SOON FOLLOWED,
SETTLING ALASKA ON DOG POWER.

TODAY,

THE MUSHERS IN THE IDITAROD
\h\h\h\hHONOR THOSE DAYS.

THEY FOLLOW A ROUTE
\h\hTHAT WAS FORGED

DURING A FAMOUS ALASKA RESCUE.

IT HAPPENED IN JANUARY 1925.

THE WESTERN ALASKAN CITY OF NOME

WAS IN THE GRIP OF A DEADLY
\h\hOUTBREAK OF DIPHTHERIA.

THOUSANDS OF PEOPLE COULD DIE
\h\hUNLESS AN ANTI-TOXIN SERUM

HUNDREDS OF MILES AWAY
\h\h\hIN ANCHORAGE

COULD REACH THEM IN TIME.

TO GET THE SERUM THERE
BEFORE IT WAS TOO LATE,

20 MUSHERS BANDED TOGETHER

TO DRIVE THEIR DOGS ACROSS
ALASKA’S FROZEN WILDERNESS

IN A DARING RELAY.

\h\h\h\h\h\h\hTHEY MANAGED
TO DELIVER THE SERUM TO NOME

IN JUST 127 HOURS,

SAVING THE PEOPLE OF THE CITY

AND MAKING HEADLINES
\hACROSS THE NATION.

\h\hTODAY, EVERY MUSHER
WHO RACES IN THE IDITAROD

IS HONORING THAT ACHIEVEMENT.

BUT THIS RACE IS NOT A RELAY.

EACH MUSHER HAS TO DRIVE
\h\h\h\hHIS OR HER DOGS

ALL THE WAY TO NOME.

\h\h\hTHE RACE BEGINS
NORTHWEST OF ANCHORAGE,

AT WILLOW LAKE.

FROM THERE, THE TEAMS HEAD WEST,

UP AND OVER RAINY PASS.

THEN, DEPENDING ON THE YEAR,

\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\hTHE DOG SLEDS
TAKE A SOUTHERN ROUTE VIA ANVIK

OR A NORTHERN ROUTE VIA GALENA.

\h\h\h\h\h\h\hALL TEAMS HEAD NORTH
PAST THE COASTAL TOWN OF KOYUK,

\h\h\hAND THEN, AFTER RACING
FOR ALMOST A THOUSAND MILES,

\h\h\h\h\h\hTHEY ARRIVE
AT THE FINISH LINE IN NOME.

\h\h\h\h\h\hEARLY ON IN THE RACE,
FRIENDS AND FANS LINE THE ROUTE

TO ENCOURAGE THE MUSHER TEAMS
\h\h\h\h\h\h\hAS THEY PASS,

IN A CELEBRATION
OF ALASKAN PRIDE.

\hBUT AS THE CROWDS THIN,
THE MOOD STARTS TO CHANGE.

IT’S TIME FOR THE MUSHERS
\h\h\h\hAND THEIR DOGS

\h\h\hTO BEGIN THEIR JOURNEYS INTO
THE STATE’S LONELY BACKCOUNTRY.

IT WILL TAKE THE FASTEST TEAMS
\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\h9 TO 10 DAYS

TO MAKE IT OUT AGAIN.

\h\h\h\hTHE SLOWER ONES
WILL LIKELY TAKE UP TO 17.

THE SLOWEST MUSHER
IN IDITAROD HISTORY

\h\h\hTOOK 32 DAYS
TO COMPLETE THE RACE.

\h\h\h\hEACH MUSHER HAS
HIS OR HER OWN STRATEGY,

\h\h\hAND HAS TO MAKE CAREFUL
DECISIONS ABOUT WHEN TO REST

AND WHEN TO RACE.

\hTHIS ONE HAS DECIDED
TO SLEEP DURING THE DAY,

AS OTHER TEAMS PASS HIM BY.

\h\h\h\h\h\hBUT LATER,
HE’LL RACE INTO THE NIGHT.

\h\h\h\hTO MAKE SURE
THEIR DOGS GET REST, TOO,

AND TO SAVE THEM FROM FROSTBITE,

\h\hMUSHERS PUT OUT STRAW
TO KEEP THEM OFF THE SNOW.

WITH WIND CHILL,

\hTEMPERATURES OUT HERE
HAVE BEEN KNOWN TO REACH

MINUS 100 DEGREES FAHRENHEIT.

\h\h\h\hBUT THIS YEAR,
UNSEASONABLY WARM WEATHER

\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\hTHREATENED TO LEAVE
MUCH OF THE COURSE WITHOUT SNOW.

MANY FEARED THAT GLOBAL WARMING

\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\hMIGHT FORCE
THE CANCELLATION OF THE RACE.

BUT IN THE END, JUST ENOUGH SNOW
FINALLY FELL TO MAKE A GO OF IT.

OUT ON THE TRAIL,

\h\h\h\h\h\hSPECIAL BOOTIES PROTECT
THE DOGS’ PAWS FROM JAGGED ICE.

\h\h\h\h\hA TEAM MAY USE AS MANY AS
2,000 OF THEM IN A SINGLE RACE.

ANY DOG THAT’S INJURED
IS PULLED FROM THE TEAM

\h\hAND CARRIED ON THE BACK
OF THE SLED, LIKE THIS ONE,

UNTIL IT CAN BE HANDED OFF
\h\hTO VETS OR VOLUNTEERS.

\h\h\h\h\h\hEVERY TEAM
HAS TO FINISH THE IDITAROD

WITH AT LEAST SIX DOGS,

\h\h\h\h\hOR ELSE THEY’RE
AUTOMATICALLY DISQUALIFIED.

FORTUNATELY, THE DOGS HAVE BEEN
\h\h\h\hBRED TO MEET THE CHALLENGE.

\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\hMOST ARE A MIX
OF INDIGENOUS ALASKAN BREEDS--

\hSIBERIAN HUSKIES,
MALAMUTES, AND OTHERS.

\hTHEY RARELY WEIGH
MORE THAN 55 POUNDS,

AND MOST OF THAT IS PURE MUSCLE.

\h\h\h\h\hTHEY ALL HAVE
AN INBORN EAGERNESS TO RUN.

THOSE WHO RACE THE IDITAROD

EXPERIENCE PARTS OF ALASKA
FEW OTHERS EVER GET TO SEE.

\hTHEY WIND THROUGH
THE QUIET STILLNESS

OF GREAT PINE FORESTS
\h\hCOVERED IN SNOW.

THEY CROSS ICE-CHOKED RIVERS

AND DISCOVER WHAT IT’S LIKE

TO REALLY BE OUT IN THE WILD
\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\hIN ALASKA.

THEY OFTEN FIND THEMSELVES
\h\h\h\h\h\hALL ALONE,

TINY SPECKS,

\h\hRACING THROUGH
AN EPIC LANDSCAPE.

BUT EVERY MUSHER KNOWS

THAT ALASKA’S WILDERNESS
HOLDS GREAT DANGER, TOO.

\h\h\hSUDDEN WINDSTORMS
CAN BRING BLINDING SNOW.

WHEN THE GOING GETS TOUGH,

MUSHERS RUN ALONGSIDE THE SLED
\h\h\h\h\h\hTO LIGHTEN THE LOAD,

\h\h\hOR USE POLES
TO HELP THE DOGS OUT.

27 CHECKPOINTS LINE THE TRAIL
\h\h\h\h\hTO PROVIDE SUPPORT.

\h\hEACH IS STAFFED
WITH A VOLUNTEER VET

TO CHECK THE DOGS’ CONDITION

\h\h\h\hAND MAKE SURE
THEY’RE FIT TO CONTINUE.

HERE, AT FINGER LAKE,

\h\hMUSHERS CHECK IN
WITH RACE OFFICIALS,

FEED THEIR DOGS,

AND THEN HEAD TO THESE TENTS
TO REST UP FOR THE NEXT LEG.

30 MILES UP THE TRAIL,

THE RAINY PASS CHECKPOINT AWAITS
ON A FROZEN LAKE.

HERE THE TEAMS PICK UP SUPPLIES

\h\h\hFLOWN IN BY A GROUP
OF GUNG-HO VOLUNTEER PILOTS

\hWHO CALL THEMSELVES
THE IDITAROD AIR FORCE.

THESE MEN AND WOMEN
\hRISK THEIR LIVES

TO KEEP THE MUSHERS
AND THEIR DOGS SAFE

IN AN AREA THAT’S BEEN CALLED

THE DEADLIEST PLACE
\hIN ALASKA TO FLY.

FROM HERE, THE TEAMS HEAD
FOR THE TOP OF RAINY PASS.

AT OVER 3,100 FEET,

IT’S THE HIGHEST POINT
\h\h\hIN THE RACE,

BUT STILL 800 MILES FROM NOME.

THE WINNER OF THIS YEAR’S RACE

WAS 53-YEAR-OLD MUSHER
\h\h\hMITCH SEAVEY,

WHO MADE IT TO THE FINISH LINE

\h\h\h\hIN 9 DAYS, 7 HOURS,
39 MINUTES, AND 56 SECONDS--

THE OLDEST MUSHER YET
\h\hTO WIN THE RACE.

BUT RACING A DOG SLED

\hACROSS 1,000 MILES
OF FROZEN WILDERNESS

\h\h\hIS JUST ONE WAY
PEOPLE HERE IN ALASKA

GET OUT INTO THE WILD.

\h\h\h\h\h\h\hOTHERS DO IT
BY SCRAMBLING UP HIGH PEAKS,

OR SKIING DOWN THEM.

BUT ONE LEGENDARY
ALASKAN BUSH PILOT

\h\h\h\h\h\h\hCREATED
HIS OWN UNIQUE EXPERIMENT

IN WILDERNESS SURVIVAL

\h\hBY BUILDING A HOUSE
PERCHED ON A ROCKY TOWER

\h\h\h\h\hRIGHT IN THE MIDDLE
OF THE HIGHEST MOUNTAIN RANGE

IN NORTH AMERICA.

A BUSH PILOT SOARS ACROSS
\h\h\hA MASSIVE GLACIER

FLOWING OUT OF THE ALASKA RANGE.

THIS TINY SPECK OF A MACHINE
\h\h\hIS SAVING ITS PASSENGERS

FROM WHAT WOULD OTHERWISE BE

\h\h\h\h\hA VERY LONG
AND VERY DIFFICULT CLIMB

ACROSS ONE OF THE COLDEST AREAS
\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\hON THE CONTINENT.

BUT IN THE HIGH ICY REACHES
\h\hOF ALASKA’S MOUNTAINS,

ONE SPECIES HAS EVOLVED TO BE
\hAMAZINGLY ADEPT AT SURVIVAL.

MOUNTAIN GOATS.

HERE, MORE THAN A THOUSAND FEET
\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\hABOVE JUNEAU,

THESE GOATS ARE RIGHT AT HOME

\h\h\h\hWHERE MOST HUMANS
WOULD BE RUNNING FOR COVER.

\h\hTENS OF THOUSANDS OF YEARS
OF EVOLUTION ARE RESPONSIBLE.

THESE GOATS LIVE ONLY
IN THE RUGGED MOUNTAINS

\h\h\h\hTHAT STRETCH
FROM THE NORTHERN ROCKIES

\h\h\hUP THROUGH CANADA
AND INTO SOUTHERN ALASKA.

THEY FOLLOW THE SEASONS
UP AND DOWN THE SLOPES

IN SEARCH OF FOOD,

SHEDDING LAST YEAR’S COATS
\h\hWHEN SPRING ARRIVES,

AND THEN FATTENING THEMSELVES UP
FOR THE COLD OF WINTER.

BETWEEN MATING SEASONS,

MALES STICK TOGETHER
IN BACHELOR GROUPS.

THE BABIES, OR KIDS,
\hARRIVE IN LATE MAY

AND STAY WITH THEIR MOTHERS
\h\hFOR AT LEAST A YEAR.

\h\h\h\hMOST REMAIN
HIGH IN THE MOUNTAINS

ON STEEP SLOPES

THAT PREDATORS LIKE WOLVES
HAVE A HARD TIME CLIMBING.

ONE REASON MOUNTAIN GOATS
\h\h\h\hARE SO AGILE

IS BECAUSE THEY HAVE
AN AREA OF SOFT SKIN

IN THE MIDDLE OF THEIR HOOVES

THAT CAN ACT LIKE A SUCTION CUP

TO HELP KEEP THEM ATTACHED
\hTO THE ROCKS THEY CLIMB.

THAT IS, WHEN THEY’RE NOT
FIGHTING WITH EACH OTHER.

THIS SPECIES OF GOAT IS KNOWN
\h\h\hTO BE HIGHLY AGGRESSIVE.

ONE YEAR-LONG STUDY REVEALED

\hTHAT THEY FOUGHT OR POKED
EACH OTHER WITH THEIR HORNS

FIVE TIMES AN HOUR ON AVERAGE.

SO NOT ONLY HAVE THEY LEARNED
\h\h\h\hTO SURVIVE BRUTAL COLD

AND PACKS OF HUNGRY WOLVES,

\hBUT ALSO THE INJURIES CAUSED
BY CONFLICTS WITH EACH OTHER.

TRYING TO SURVIVE WHILE CLIMBING
ALASKA’S HIGHEST PEAKS

\h\h\h\hHAS BEEN A CHALLENGE
HUMANS HAVE BEEN UNDERTAKING

FOR MORE THAN A CENTURY.

\hAND STILL TODAY, EVERY YEAR,
MORE THAN A THOUSAND CLIMBERS

\h\h\hSET OUT TO TRY AND REACH
THE SUMMIT OF MOUNT McKINLEY,

ALSO KNOWN AS DENALI.

AT 20,237 FEET,

IT’S THE TALLEST MOUNTAIN
\h\h\hIN NORTH AMERICA.

\h\hLESS THAN 70% OF THOSE WHO
ATTEMPT THE SUMMIT EVERY YEAR

ACTUALLY MAKE IT.

AS WITH MUCH OF ALASKA,

THE EASIEST WAY IN AND OUT
\h\h\h\h\hIS BY PLANE,

\h\h\hTHANKS IN PART
TO THE PIONEERING WORK

OF A LEGENDARY BUSH PILOT
\h\hNAMED DON SHELDON.

AS A YOUNG MAN,

THE COLORADO NATIVE
KEPT TRAVELING NORTH

UNTIL HIS MONEY RAN OUT.

\hHE ENDED UP IN THE TINY
ALASKAN TOWN OF TALKEETNA,

WHERE HE WOULD SPEND
THE REST OF HIS LIFE.

\h\h\h\h\hIN 1955, A SCIENTIST NAMED
BRADFORD WASHBURN, FROM BOSTON,

ARRIVED IN TALKEETNA

\h\h\h\h\hTO MAP MOUNT McKINLEY
AND THE SURROUNDING MOUNTAINS.

\hTHE PROBLEM WAS
HE NEEDED A PILOT

WHO COULD DROP HIM OFF
ON DENALI’S GLACIERS

\h\h\h\h\h\hAND WORK FOR HIM
OVER THE YEARS IT WOULD TAKE

TO COMPLETE THE SURVEY.

\h\h\hIT JUST SO HAPPENED THAT
SHELDON, WHO WAS NOW A PILOT,

HAD RECENTLY ATTACHED
A PAIR OF SPECIAL SKIS

TO THE WHEELS OF HIS BUSH PLANE

SO HE COULD LAND ON SNOW.

\h\h\h\hHE OFFERED
TO WORK WITH WASHBURN

AND WAS SOON TEACHING HIMSELF
\h\h\hHOW TO LAND AND TAKE OFF

ON GLACIERS--

\h\h\h\hA TECHNIQUE
THAT’S STILL USED TODAY

BY SHELDON’S DAUGHTER HOLLY
AND HER HUSBAND DAVID LEE,

WHEN THEY FERRY CLIMBERS UP

TO THE 7,200-FOOT-HIGH
\hDENALI BASE CAMP.

\h\hSHELDON’S SKILL
AT GLACIER LANDINGS

ENABLED WASHBURN TO CONDUCT

THE FIRST-EVER SURVEY
\hOF MOUNT McKINLEY,

WHICH TOOK 15 YEARS,

AND HELPED MADE SHELDON ONE OF
\h\h\h\hALASKA’S AVIATION LEGENDS.

IN 1966, SHELDON DECIDED
TO BUILD HIMSELF A CABIN

HIGH UP ON DENALI’S FLANKS.

HE CHOSE THIS RUGGED OUTCROPPING
6,000 FEET ABOVE SEA LEVEL,

IN THE GLACIER-FILLED VALLEY
\h\hKNOWN AS THE GREAT GORGE.

\h\h\h\hHE FLEW IN
EVERY PART OF THE CABIN

\h\h\hAND EVERY TOOL
HE NEEDED TO BUILD IT.

\hSTRAPPING THE LARGER TIMBER
TO THE OUTSIDE OF THE PLANE,

HE SIMPLY DROPPED IT OFF
\h\hINTO THE SNOW BELOW

AS HE FLEW BY.

IT TOOK DOZENS OF TRIPS,

\hBUT HE FINALLY WELCOMED
HIS FIRST GUESTS IN 1966.

\h\h\h\h\h\hALMOST 60 YEARS LATER,
VISITORS PAY UP TO $600 A NIGHT

\h\h\hTO FLY IN AND ROUGH IT
IN SHELDON’S UNIQUE RETREAT,

A PLACE WITH NO ROOM SERVICE
\h\h\h\h\hAND FEW AMENITIES,

BUT PLENTY OF SOLITUDE
AND ONE HECK OF A VIEW.

THANKS TO THIS CABIN,

\h\h\h\h\h\h\hTHIS AREA
OF THE DENALI NATIONAL PARK

\h\h\h\h\h\hIS NOW CALLED
THE DON SHELDON AMPHITHEATER

IN HONOR OF THE FAMOUS PILOT.

STILL TODAY,

\h\h\h\h\hTHE ONLY WAY INTO
AND OUT OF HERE IS BY PLANE,

\h\h\h\h\hJUST AS IT IS
FOR MANY PLACES IN ALASKA,

ESPECIALLY FOR THOSE WHO REALLY
\h\h\h\h\h\hWANT TO TEST THE LIMITS

OF SURVIVING IN THE WILD.

IN THE SPRING OF 2003,

TWO AMATEUR ZOOLOGISTS

NAMED AMIE HUGUENARD
AND TIMOTHY TREADWELL

WERE DROPPED OFF BY A BUSH PLANE
HERE ON THE KATMAI COAST.

THE HORRIFYING EVENTS
\h\h\hTHAT FOLLOWED

\h\hWOULD MAKE THEM
THE MAIN CHARACTERS

IN DIRECTOR WERNER HERZOG’S
\hDOCUMENTARY "GRIZZLY MAN"

\h\h\h\h\h\hAND PROVIDE
A CAUTIONARY TALE TO OTHERS

ABOUT TESTING THE RAW POWER
\h\hOF ALASKA’S WILDERNESS.

HUGUENARD AND TREADWELL

HAD COME TO TRY AND COEXIST
\hWITH THE BEARS OF KATMAI.

THEY LIVED AMONG THEM

AND TRIED TO BECOME
\h\hTHEIR FRIENDS.

BUT IT DIDN’T GO
AS THEY PLANNED.

\h\h\hTHE BEARS ENDED UP
EATING BOTH OF THEM ALIVE.

TREADWELL’S VIDEO CAMERA

\h\hHAPPENED TO BE
ROLLING AT THE TIME

\h\h\hAND CAPTURED
SIX HORRIFYING MINUTES

OF HIS AGONIZED SCREAMS.

FOR THOUSANDS OF YEARS,

\h\h\h\h\hBEARS HAVE REIGNED
AT THE TOP OF THE FOOD CHAIN

AS ALASKA’S APEX PREDATOR.

USUALLY, THEY ARE FINE
BEING AROUND HUMANS,

AS LONG AS THE HUMANS
DON’T PUSH THEIR LUCK.

BROWN BEARS ARE KNOWN TO EAT
\h\h\hCARIBOU, ELK, AND MOOSE.

MOST OF THE TIME THEY FEAST
\h\h\hON BERRIES, ROOTS,

AND, OF COURSE, FISH.

SOME OF THESE GRAZING GIANTS

GET AS MUCH AS 80-90%
\hOF THEIR NUTRITION

FROM VEGETATION.

AND WHEN THE TIDE IS OUT,
\h\hTHEY DIG FOR CLAMS,

\hAS OPPORTUNISTIC GULLS WAIT
TO FEAST ON THEIR LEFTOVERS.

\h\hEVEN BIRDS KNOW
TO KEEP THEIR DISTANCE

IF THEY DON’T WANT TO BE ADDED
\h\h\h\h\hTO THE BEARS’ BUFFET.

THE CUBS ARE BORN BETWEEN
\h\hDECEMBER AND MARCH.

\h\h\h\hAS SOON AS
THEY LEAVE THEIR DENS,

THEIR MOTHERS BEGIN TEACHING
\h\h\hTHEM HOW TO FIND FOOD.

\h\h\hWHEN MATURE, THE MALES WILL
WEIGH UP TO A THOUSAND POUNDS.

IN THE 19th AND 20th CENTURY,
FEAR OF THESE GIANT PREDATORS

\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\hDROVE PIONEERS
TO HUNT THEM TO NEAR EXTINCTION

IN THE LOWER 48 STATES.

TODAY, MORE THAN 95%

OF SURVIVING BROWN BEARS
\hIN THE UNITED STATES--

ABOUT 30,000 IN ALL--

LIVE IN ALASKA.

\hTHE PARK IS DEDICATED
TO PRESERVING THIS EDEN,

FOR BEARS AND HUMANS ALIKE.

BUT NOT EVERYONE COMES TO ALASKA

JUST TO LOOK AT THE WILDLIFE
\h\h\h\h\h\hOR THE VIEWS.

\hSOME COME TO SEARCH
FOR BURIED TREASURE--

DARING MEN AND WOMEN
WILLING TO RISK IT ALL

\h\h\h\hTO FIND THEIR FORTUNES
ON AMERICA’S FROZEN FRONTIER.

\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\hSOMETIMES,
OUT IN ALASKA’S VAST WILDERNESS,

THE MORNING COMMUTE
\h\hCAN BE EXTREME.

THE PILOT OF THIS HELICOPTER

IS ON HIS WAY TO PICK UP
\h\hA MINING EXECUTIVE

WAITING FOR A RIDE TO WORK.

GEOLOGIST DARWIN GREEN

\hIS HERE TO CHECK IN
ON AN EXPLORATORY DRILL

\hTHAT’S PLUMBING
THIS MOUNTAINSIDE

FOR TRACES OF PRECIOUS METALS.

\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\hBUT TO GET THERE
REQUIRES A HAIR-RAISING DESCENT

BY HELICOPTER.

HE NEEDS TO REACH
THIS TINY PLATFORM

\h\h\h\hPERCHED ON THE EDGE
OF THE MOUNTAIN, DOWN BELOW.

IT’S ONE OF MANY SUCH DRILLING
RIGS THAT DOT THE CLIFFS HERE.

THEY’RE PART OF AN OPERATION
\h\hCALLED THE PALMER PROJECT,

A SEARCH FOR COPPER, ZINC,
\h\h\h\hSILVER, AND GOLD

IN ALASKA’S COAST MOUNTAINS.

\h\hIT TAKES SKILLED
ALASKAN MOUNTAINEERS

\h\h\hTO BUILD THESE PLATFORMS
ON SUCH STEEP ROCKY TERRAIN.

A CENTURY AGO,

PROSPECTORS WOULD HAVE CLAMBERED
UP PEAKS LIKE THIS ONE ON FOOT

\h\h\hIN THE SEARCH
FOR PRECIOUS METALS.

BUT TODAY, DARWIN AND THE OTHER
\h\h\h\h\hMEMBERS OF HIS DRILL CREW

START AND END THEIR SHIFTS
\h\h\h\h\hBY HELICOPTER.

\h\h\h\h\h\hIT’S NOT A JOB
FOR ANYONE AFRAID OF HEIGHTS

OR NERVE-RACKING FLIGHT.

\h\h\h\hAND FLYING
THESE KINDS OF MISSIONS

REQUIRES A LOT OF SKILL,

ESPECIALLY IN THE MOUNTAINS’
\h\h\h\h\h\hTRICKY UPDRAFTS.

TODAY, THIS EXPERIENCED PILOT
\hSWINGS DOWN OVER THE VALLEY,

THEN BACK AROUND

TO GET THE RIGHT ANGLE
\hFOR THE APPROACH.

ONCE HE’S IN POSITION,

HE STARTS HIS DESCENT
TO A TINY LANDING PAD.

\hIF A GUST OF WIND
PUSHES HIM OFF COURSE,

\h\h\h\hTHE LANDING
WILL HAVE TO BE ABORTED

\h\h\h\h\h\h\hTO AVOID
A POTENTIALLY DEADLY CRASH.

BUT THIS PILOT MANAGES TO MAKE
\h\h\h\hA FEATHER-LIGHT TOUCHDOWN

ON HIS VERY FIRST TRY.

IT’S TOO DANGEROUS

TO PARK A HELICOPTER
ON THIS TEMPORARY PAD,

SO THE PILOT LIFTS OFF
TO SEEK SOLID GROUND.

NOW ON HIS OWN,

DARWIN HIKES THE REST OF THE WAY
DOWN TO THE DRILL SITE.

HIS TEAM’S HARD WORK
IS ALREADY PAYING OFF.

CORE SAMPLES FROM THESE DRILLS

\h\hHAVE SHOWN THAT
THIS MOUNTAIN RANGE

\h\h\h\hHOLDS GREAT
POTENTIAL RICHES BELOW.

\h\hONCE THOSE MINERALS
HAVE BEEN CAREFULLY MAPPED

USING SURFACE DRILLS
\h\h\hLIKE THIS ONE,

THE MINING COMPANY
\hDARWIN WORKS FOR

HOPES TO BE ABLE TO EXTRACT IT
\h\h\h\h\hUSING UNDERGROUND MINES.

\h\h\h\hDRILL CREWS
ON THE PALMER PROJECT

WORK 24 HOURS A DAY HERE,

IN 12-HOUR SHIFTS,
FIVE MONTHS A YEAR,

NO MATTER WHAT THE WEATHER.

JUST THE LATEST IN A LONG LINE
\hOF HARD-WORKING MEN AND WOMEN

WHO HAVE COME TO ALASKA
TO SEEK THEIR FORTUNE

\h\h\h\h\h\hIN DARING
AND OFTEN THRILLING QUESTS

FOR COPPER, SILVER, AND GOLD.

AND THE STATE’S MOST FAMOUS
\h\hGOLD RUSH OF THEM ALL

HAPPENED JUST A FEW MILES AWAY.

IN 1896, GOLD WAS DISCOVERED
\h\hJUST OVER THE U.S. BORDER,

IN CANADA’S KLONDIKE TERRITORY.

\h\hTHE EASIEST WAY FOR MINERS TO
GET TO THE CANADIAN GOLD FIELDS

WAS THROUGH ALASKA.

OVER THE NEXT THREE YEARS,

100,000 WOULD-BE MILLIONAIRES
\h\h\h\h\h\h\hMADE THE TRIP.

\h\h\h\hIT WAS CALLED
"THE KLONDIKE STAMPEDE,"

\hAND THE MEN WHO JOINED IT
WERE KNOWN AS "STAMPEDERS."

A LITTLE HARBOR OUTPOST
\h\h\hCALLED SKAGWAY

\hBECAME ONE OF THEIR
MAIN POINTS OF ENTRY.

TODAY SKAGWAY IS A MAJOR STOP

\h\h\hON THE ALASKA
CRUISE SHIP CIRCUIT.

BUT BACK IN THE DAYS
\hOF THE STAMPEDERS,

ONE CANADIAN MOUNTIE CALLED IT
\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\h"HELL ON EARTH."

THE KLONDIKE STAMPEDE

TRANSFORMED SKAGWAY
FROM A TWO-MAN CAMP

\h\h\hINTO A LAWLESS BOOMTOWN
OF 10,000, ALMOST OVERNIGHT.

THIEVES, CON MEN,
\hAND PROSTITUTES

PROWLED ITS STREETS,

PREYING ON THE HOPEFUL MINERS

\h\h\hTHAT ARRIVED HERE
WITH DREAMS OF THE RICHES

\h\hTHAT THEY HOPED WOULD SOON
GREET THEM ACROSS THE BORDER.

FUTURE AUTHOR JACK LONDON
\h\h\hWAS ONE OF THEM.

HIS TIME HERE INSPIRED
HIS BEST-KNOWN BOOK,

"THE CALL OF THE WILD."

\h\hHE MIGHT RECOGNIZE
MANY OF THESE STOREFRONTS

IF HE CAME BACK TODAY,

AND HE MIGHT ALSO BE SURPRISED

\h\h\h\hAT HOW MUCH
IT’S BEEN CLEANED UP.

\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\hBUT LONDON
AND THE REST OF THE STAMPEDERS

WEREN’T JUST HERE TO SAMPLE
SKAGWAY’S DEBAUCHED CHARMS;

THEY WERE HERE TO START

WHAT WAS WELL KNOWN
AS A BRUTAL JOURNEY:

TO GET TO THE GOLD.

\hTHE SHORTEST ROUTE FROM SKAGWAY
TO CANADA’S KLONDIKE GOLD FIELDS

\h\h\h\h\hWAS A NARROW TRAIL
THAT HEADED WEST OUT OF TOWN,

\h\h\hAND THEN NORTH
UP A VERTICAL INCLINE.

THIS GRUELING ROUTE WAS CALLED
\h\h\h\h\h\h\hTHE CHILKOOT TRAIL

\h\h\h\hAND BROUGHT
THE HOPEFUL PROSPECTORS

TO THE 3,500-FOOT-HIGH
\h\h\hCHILKOOT PASS

AT THE CANADIAN BORDER.

TO PREVENT STARVATION,

CANADA REQUIRED PROSPECTORS
\h\hENTERING THE KLONDIKE

\h\h\h\hTO BRING A YEAR’S WORTH
OF SUPPLIES ALONG WITH THEM--

ABOUT A TON PER PERSON.

\hIF THEY SHOWED UP
AT THE BORDER CROSSING

WITH ANYTHING LESS,

THE CANADIAN MOUNTIES
\h\h\hSTATIONED HERE

FORCED THEM TO TURN BACK.

TOTING ALL THAT STUFF

OVER THE TOP OF THE CHILKOOT’S
3,500-FOOT SUMMIT IN BACKPACKS

TOOK MULTIPLE TRIPS
UP AND DOWN THE TRAIL.

\h\h\h\hTHE STAMPEDERS CALLED IT THE
"MEANEST 32 MILES IN THE WORLD."

\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\hTODAY,
REMAINS OF ABANDONED CANOES

\h\h\h\h\h\hSTILL LIE
NEAR THE CHILKOOT SUMMIT--

JUST PART OF THE EXTRA BAGGAGE
\h\h\h\h\hDISCARDED ALONG THE WAY.

\h\h\hONLY ABOUT A THIRD
OF THOSE WHO TRIED THE TRIP

MADE IT TO THE GOLD FIELDS.

THE REST GAVE UP, TURNED BACK,
\h\h\h\h\hOR DIED ON THE TRAIL.

MANY MINERS CHOSE AN ALTERNATE
\h\h\h\h\hROUTE OUT OF SKAGWAY.

\h\hTHIS ONE, WHICH HEADED UP
AND OVER WHITE PASS INSTEAD,

WAS ONLY SLIGHTLY EASIER.

HERE IN THIS VALLEY,

PACK HORSES, NOT HUMANS,
PAID THE GREATEST PRICE.

EAGER, INEXPERIENCED PROSPECTORS
DROVE THE HORSES RELENTLESSLY,

\hTHEN CAST THEM ASIDE
IN PLACES LIKE THIS GULCH

WHEN THEY BECAME
CRIPPLED OR ILL.

THEIR ROTTING CARCASSES

WERE WHY JACK LONDON
REFERRED TO THIS ROUTE

AS "DEAD HORSE TRAIL."

TO EASE THE SUFFERING
OF BOTH MAN AND BEAST

AND TO MAKE A TIDY PROFIT
\h\h\h\hIN THE PROCESS,

\h\hA GROUP OF INVESTORS
DECIDED TO BUILD A RAILROAD

OVER WHITE PASS IN 1898.

THE STEEP SLOPE OF WHITE PASS

\hMADE IT A NEARLY
IMPOSSIBLE PROJECT,

BUT THE POTENTIAL PROFITS
\h\h\h\hDROVE THEM ON.

"GIVE ME ENOUGH DYNAMITE,"
\h\hONE ENGINEER BRAGGED,

\h\h"AND I’LL BUILD
A RAILROAD TO HELL."

\h\h\h\h\h\hDAZZLING FEATS
OF 19th-CENTURY ENGINEERING,

LIKE THIS STEEL BRIDGE,

\h\hHAD TO BE BUILT
TO CARRY THE TRAINS

\hACROSS THE CANYONS
THAT STOOD IN THE WAY.

\h\h\h\hBUT BY THE TIME
THE LINE OPENED IN 1900,

THE STAMPEDERS IT WAS BUILT
TO CARRY WERE ALREADY GONE.

\h\h\hAN 1899 GOLD STRIKE NEAR NOME
HAD SENT THEM NORTHWEST INSTEAD.

\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\hFORTUNATELY
FOR THE RAILROAD’S INVESTORS,

SETTLERS AND SIGHTSEERS
SOON TOOK THEIR PLACE.

TODAY THE WHITE PASS &
\h\h\h\h\h\h\hYUKON
\h\h\hRAILROAD’S TRAINS

\h\h\h\hSTILL CARRY
NEARLY 400,000 TOURISTS

INTO THE MOUNTAINS EVERY SUMMER.

\h\h\h\h\hAND OVER 100 YEARS
AFTER THE KLONDIKE STAMPEDE,

\h\h\h\hPROSPECTORS
ARE STILL FANNING OUT

ACROSS ALASKA’S BACKCOUNTRY
\h\h\hTO SEARCH FOR GOLD.

\h\h\h\h\hAND FEW ARE FINDING
SOMETHING ELSE OUT HERE, TOO:

THEIR 15 MINUTES OF FAME

\h\h\h\h\h\hON VARIOUS
GOLD MINING REALITY SHOWS.

\h\hBUT THEY’RE HARDLY
THE FIRST ONES IN ALASKA

TO HAVE THE TV CAMERAS
\h\h\hCOME KNOCKING,

OR MOVE IN NEXT-DOOR.

THAT’S WHAT HAPPENED HERE

\h\h\h\h\hAT THE HOME
OF FORMER ALASKA GOVERNOR

AND REPUBLICAN VICE PRESIDENTIAL
CANDIDATE SARAH PALIN.

\h\h\h\hIN 2010, UNAUTHORIZED
PALIN BIOGRAPHER JOE McGINNIS

BOUGHT THE HOUSE TO THE LEFT

AND ANNOUNCED HE WAS MOVING IN.

SO PALIN BUILT A 14-FOOT FENCE
\h\h\h\h\h\h\hTO BLOCK HIS VIEW.

BUT NO FENCES WERE NEEDED
\h\hON THE OTHER SIDE,

AFTER FOX NEWS BUILT PALIN
\h\h\hHER OWN TV STUDIO

IN THIS BUILDING TO THE RIGHT.

\h\hFOR THREE YEARS IT KEPT
MS. PALIN IN THE SPOTLIGHT,

A POSITION SHE SEEMS TO ADORE,

BUT ONE A LOT OF OTHER ALASKANS
\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\hDON’T ENVY.

\hFROM ITS EARLIEST DAYS,
ALASKA HAS BEEN A MAGNET

FOR A CONTRARY BRAND
\h\h\hOF OUTSIDERS

LOOKING TO BE LEFT ALONE.

TODAY, THEIR 21st-CENTURY HEIRS

STILL RESENT ANY INTRUSION
\h\h\hINTO THEIR LIVES.

\hDISTRUST OF THE LOWER 48
AND ITS FEDERAL GOVERNMENT

THRIVES IN THIS INDIVIDUALISTIC
\h\h\h\h\h\hAND LIBERTARIAN CROWD,

ALONG WITH CONSPIRACY THEORIES.

IN 1993,

THE DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE
SELECTED THIS LONELY SPOT

175 MILES NORTH OF ANCHORAGE

\h\h\h\h\hTO BUILD ITS HIGH-FREQUENCY
ACTIVE AURORAL RESEARCH PROGRAM,

OR HAARP.

SOON AFTER, ALASKA’S CONSPIRACY
\h\h\h\h\h\hBLOGOSPHERE EXPLODED.

THE U.S. GOVERNMENT WAS ACCUSED
\h\h\h\h\h\hOF USING HAARP’S ARRAY

\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\hOF 180
72-FOOT-TALL SILVER TOWERS

FOR EVERYTHING FROM
DISABLING SATELLITES

TO CAUSING EARTHQUAKES

TO CONTROLLING THE WEATHER

TO CONTROLLING MINDS.

THE DoD’S PROMISES

\h\h\hTHAT THE ARRAY
IS ACTUALLY BEING USED

\hFOR A BENIGN STUDY
OF THE OUTER ATMOSPHERE

DID LITTLE TO STOP THE CHATTER,

\h\h\h\hEVEN THOUGH
IT’S NOT THE FIRST TIME

SPACE-MINDED SCIENTISTS

\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\hHAVE BEEN DRAWN
TO ALASKA’S UNIQUE ENVIRONMENT,

OR ITS UNIQUE POSITION
\h\h\hON THE EARTH.

HERE ON KODIAK ISLAND’S
\h\h\hNARROW CAPE,

SCIENTISTS EVEN FOUND
\h\h\hA PERFECT SPOT

TO BUILD A GATEWAY INTO SPACE.

\h\h\h\hTHE ALASKA
AEROSPACE CORPORATION’S

KODIAK LAUNCH COMPLEX.

\h\h\hTHIS SPACEPORT WAS BUILT
BY THE STATE OF ALASKA ITSELF

AND IS USED BY BOTH
THE U.S. GOVERNMENT

AND PRIVATE CORPORATIONS

TO LAUNCH UNMANNED ROCKETS
\h\h\h\hAND SATELLITES.

FIRST, THEY ARE LOADED INSIDE
\h\h\h\h\hTHIS 17-STORY TOWER

AND THEN MOVED OUTSIDE
JUST BEFORE LAUNCH.

SINCE THE KODIAK LAUNCH COMPLEX

\h\h\hSITS RIGHT NEXT
TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN,

IT’S THE PERFECT
AND SAFEST PLACE

TO LAUNCH SATELLITES
\hINTO POLAR ORBITS,

\h\h\hLIKE MANY OF THE WEATHER
AND COMMUNICATION SATELLITES

WE RELY ON TODAY.

BUT NOT ALL SCIENTISTS
\h\h\hCOME TO ALASKA

TO TRAIN THEIR EYES
\h\hON THE SKIES.

\h\h\h\hSOME ARE HERE
TO LEARN SURVIVAL SKILLS

FOR AN EPIC JOURNEY
ACROSS MILES OF ICE.

HIGH IN THE MOUNTAINS
\h\h\hABOVE JUNEAU,

A GROUP OF YOUNG SCIENTISTS

IS PREPARING FOR A VERY COLD
\h\h\h\h\hSCIENTIFIC QUEST.

THEY’RE ABOUT TO EMBARK

\h\h\hON A 90-MILE
8-WEEK RESEARCH TRIP

THROUGH THE ALASKAN WILDERNESS
\h\h\hTO ATLIN, BRITISH COLUMBIA.

\h\hBUT THEY’RE GOING
TO GET THERE ON SKIS,

\h\h\h\hBY CROSSING
THE JUNEAU ICE FIELD.

SINCE 1948, THE JUNEAU ICE FIELD
RESEARCH PROGRAM

\h\h\h\hHAS BEEN SENDING
YOUNG SCIENTISTS LIKE THESE

OUT ONTO THE ICE.

THEY’RE HERE TO PURSUE
\hWILDERNESS STUDIES

IN FIELDS SUCH AS GEOLOGY,
\h\h\h\h\hCLIMATOLOGY,

BIOLOGY, AND GLACIOLOGY.

THIS IS THEIR FIRST STOP,

KNOWN AS CAMP 17.

\hTHEY WILL SPEND
THE NEXT FEW DAYS

IN THIS RUGGED OUTPOST,

\h\h\h\h\hLEARNING THE TECHNIQUES
THAT WILL HELP THEM TO SURVIVE

THE REST OF THE TRIP,

\h\hLIKE HOW TO AVOID
FALLING INTO A CREVASSE

AND HOW TO CLIMB BACK OUT
\h\h\h\h\hIF YOU DO.

OUT HERE,

TEAMWORK AND STRONG ARMS
ARE THE KEY TO SURVIVAL.

ONCE THEY’VE FINISHED
\hLEARNING THE ROPES,

\h\h\hTHESE HARDY
APPRENTICE RESEARCHERS

\h\h\hWILL MOVE ON
ACROSS THE ICE FIELD.

THEY’LL JOIN THE RANKS

OF THOUSANDS OF OTHER
ADVENTUROUS SCIENTISTS

DRAWN TO ALASKA OVER THE YEARS,

EAGER TO EXPLORE AND UNDERSTAND
\h\h\h\h\h\h\hTHE STATE’S WONDERS.

FROM HIGH IN THE MOUNTAINS,

TO SEA LEVEL,

AND EVEN BELOW.

SOUTHEASTERN ALASKA’S
\h\hRUGGED COASTLINE,

WITH ITS MIX OF MOUNTAIN,
\h\h\hOCEAN, AND SHORE,

\h\h\hHAS LONG BEEN
A FAVORITE DESTINATION

\h\hFOR RESEARCHERS
FROM AROUND THE GLOBE.

BRITAIN’S CAPTAIN COOK

\hWAS ONE OF THE FIRST EUROPEANS
TO CHART THESE WATERS, IN 1778.

MORE DETAILED SCIENTIFIC STUDIES

\hWERE CARRIED OUT
IN THE EARLY 1800s,

WHEN RUSSIAN SCIENTISTS

\h\h\h\h\h\h\hRECORDED DATA
ABOUT TIDES AND WEATHER HERE.

THEIR WORK LED TO THE FIRST MAPS

\h\h\h\h\h\hOF ALASKA’S
CONFUSING COASTAL REGIONS--

\h\hA TANGLED NETWORK
OF STRAITS AND CHANNELS

WITH THOUSANDS OF MILES
\h\h\hOF SHORELINE

AND HUNDREDS OF ISLANDS.

\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\hA FEW OF THEM,
LIKE THIS ONE CALLED CHICHAGOF,

ARE HUGE

\h\hAND COVER MORE THAN
A THOUSAND SQUARE MILES.

OTHERS AREN’T MUCH BIGGER
\h\h\h\h\hTHAN ROCKS.

FOR CENTURIES, PEOPLE HAVE BEEN
USING THE WATERWAYS AROUND THEM

TO TRAVEL UP THE COAST.

THIS "INSIDE PASSAGE"
ALLOWED THEM TO AVOID

THE NORTHERN PACIFIC’S
\hDANGEROUS WATERS.

\h\h\h\h\h\hBUT THE REGION’S
WINDING 10,000-MILE SHORELINE

BROUGHT DANGERS OF ITS OWN.

\h\h\hHIDDEN SHOALS
AND JAGGED OUTCROPPINGS

CAUSED 300 MARITIME ACCIDENTS
\h\h\h\h\h\h\hIN 1898 ALONE.

\h\hTHE NEXT YEAR,
CONGRESS RESPONDED

BY AUTHORIZING THE CONSTRUCTION
\h\h\h\hOF A SERIES OF LIGHTHOUSES.

ONE OF THE FIRST
TO SHINE ITS BEAM

STOOD HERE ON SENTINEL ISLAND.

\h\h\h\hIT’S BEEN LEADING SAILORS
AWAY FROM DISASTER SINCE 1902.

BUT ITS ORIGINAL WOODEN BUILDING

WAS REPLACED WITH THIS STURDIER
\h\h\h\h\h\hCONCRETE ART DECO TOWER

IN 1935.

\h\h\hTODAY, ONLY ONE
OF THE INSIDE PASSAGE’S

\h\h\h\hORIGINAL 20th-CENTURY
WOODEN LIGHTHOUSES SURVIVES--

THIS LONELY OCTAGONAL TOWER
\h\h\h\h\hON ELDRED ROCK.

IT STANDS NEAR THE SPOT

WHERE THE PASSENGER SHIP
\h\h\h\h\hCLARA NEVADA

\h\hRAN AGROUND AND SANK
ON A STORMY NIGHT IN 1898.

\h\hAS MANY AS 40 PEOPLE LOST
THEIR LIVES HERE THAT NIGHT.

THE ELDRED ROCK LIGHTHOUSE
\hBEGAN OPERATION IN 1906

IN AN EFFORT TO MAKE SURE
IT NEVER HAPPENED AGAIN.

ITS BEACON STILL LIGHTS THE WAY

FOR SHIPS SAILING THROUGH
THE INSIDE PASSAGE TODAY.

UP TO A FIFTH OF THOSE
\hARE CRUISE SHIPS--

450 IN THE SUMMER OF 2012 ALONE.

HUNDREDS OF PASSAGES BY TANKERS,
BARGES, AND FISHING BOATS

HELP ADD TO THE TOTAL.

BUT NO SHIPS MAKE MORE JOURNEYS
\h\hALONG ALASKA’S SOUTHERN COAST

OR PLAY A MORE VITAL ROLE HERE

\h\h\h\hTHAN THE FERRIES
THEY CALL THE BLUE CANOES.

FOR MANY RURAL RESIDENTS,

THEY PROVIDE THE ONLY DEPENDABLE
LINK TO THE OUTSIDE WORLD.

\h\h\hPRIVATE OPERATORS
RAN THE FIRST FERRIES HERE

UNTIL THE TERRITORY
BOUGHT THEM IN 1951.

AFTER STATEHOOD,
A NEW FEDERAL LAW

\h\h\h\h\h\hTRANSFORMED THESE WATERS
INTO THE ALASKA MARINE HIGHWAY,

\h\h\h\h\h\hQUALIFYING
THE NOW STATE-OWNED FERRIES

FOR FEDERAL SUPPORT.

THAT SUPPORT KEEPS THE SHIPS
\h\h\h\h\h\hCHUGGING ALONG

FROM BELLINGHAM, WASHINGTON,

TO THE TIP OF THE ALEUTIAN
\h\hPENINSULA, AND BACK--

3,500 MILES EACH WAY.

THEY CARRY 312,000 PASSENGERS
\h\h\h\h\hAND 98,000 VEHICLES

IN AN AVERAGE YEAR.

CABINS ARE AVAILABLE,

BUT A LOT OF TRAVELERS
\h\hPREFER THE VIEW

FROM THE FERRY’S UPPER DECK.

\h\h\hFROM HERE, THEY CAN WATCH
THE SPECTACULAR SCENERY GO BY

AND LOOK FOR SIGNS OF THE BIRDS,
FISH, AND MARINE MAMMALS

\h\h\h\h\h\hTHAT CALL
THE INSIDE PASSAGE HOME.

\h\hTHESE SEA LIONS RELY
ON THE PASSAGE’S SHORELINE

TO REST AND REAR THEIR YOUNG.

\h\hTHEY ALSO DEPEND
ON ITS WATER FOR FOOD.

\hA MALE CAN GROW
UP TO 2,500 POUNDS

AND RULE OVER PRIVATE DOMAINS

WHERE HE AWAITS THE ARRIVAL
\h\hOF 750-POUND FEMALES

WILLING TO MATE...

IF HE’S LUCKY.

THIS FORTUNATE BULL’S HAREM

\hCAN BARELY SQUEEZE
ONTO HIS TINY BEACH.

BUT DESPITE THEIR NUMBERS HERE,

ALASKA’S SEA LIONS ARE ACTUALLY
\h\h\h\h\h\hSTRUGGLING TO SURVIVE.

\hONCE, THESE BEACHES
IN THE BARREN ISLANDS

\h\h\h\h\h\hWOULD HAVE BEEN COVERED
IN A CARPET OF BLUBBER AND FUR.

TODAY THERE’S MORE SAND
\h\h\hTHAN SEA LION.

BETWEEN 1960 AND 1990

THEIR POPULATION DECLINED
\h\hFROM AROUND 140,000

TO LESS THAN 31,000,

WHICH IS WHY, IN 1997,

THEY WERE ADDED TO THE LIST
\h\hOF ENDANGERED SPECIES.

\hTODAY THERE ARE
ABOUT 46,000 LEFT.

FARTHER FROM SHORE,

\h\hTHE STILL WATERS
OF THE INSIDE PASSAGE

HIDE ANOTHER SPECIES
ON THE ENDANGERED LIST:

HUMPBACK WHALES.

GLIDING BELOW THE QUIET SURFACE,

\h\h\h\hWHERE THEY CAN STAY FOR
UP TO HALF AN HOUR AT A TIME,

\h\h\h\h\hTHEY REVEAL THEIR PRESENCE
ONLY WHEN THEY COME UP FOR AIR.

\hHUMPBACKS ARE PART-TIME
RESIDENTS IN THESE WATERS.

\h\hTHEY SPEND THEIR
WINTERS AROUND HAWAII,

\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\hWHERE THEY MATE
AND GIVE BIRTH TO THEIR YOUNG.

\h\h\h\h\hWHEN SUMMER COMES,
THEY HEAD TO ALASKA TO FEED.

IT’S THE ONLY TIME OF YEAR
\h\h\h\h\hWHEN THEY EAT.

EACH ONE CAN CONSUME UP TO A TON
OF FISH AND KRILL A DAY.

BUT THEIR PREDICTABLE MOVEMENTS
\h\h\h\h\h\hMAKE THEM EASY TO TRACK

AND KILL.

IN THE 19th AND 20th CENTURY,

WHALING DROVE THEIR NUMBERS HERE
DOWN BY 90%.

\h\h\h\hPROTECTED STATUS
HAS HELPED BRING THEM BACK,

BUT THEY STILL HAVE
\h\hA WAYS TO GO.

ENVIRONMENTALISTS LONG FEARED

THAT GROWING SHIP TRAFFIC
\hALONG ALASKA’S COAST

\h\h\h\hCOULD INTERFERE
WITH THE WHALES’ REVIVAL.

ON MARCH 24, 1989,

THEIR WORST FEARS CAME TRUE

WHEN A HUGE OIL TANKER
CALLED THE EXXON VALDEZ

\h\h\h\hRAN AGROUND ON A REEF
HERE IN PRINCE WILLIAM SOUND,

WHERE THIS BUOY MARKS THE SPOT.

THE IMPACT TORE A HOLE
IN THE SHIP’S HULL.

UP TO 11 MILLION GALLONS
OF CRUDE OIL POURED OUT.

IT’S BEEN CALLED
ONE OF THE WORST

HUMAN-CAUSED ENVIRONMENTAL
\h\hDISASTERS IN HISTORY.

BUT IT WAS HARDLY UNEXPECTED.

ENVIRONMENTALISTS HAD WARNED
\h\h\hOF THIS KIND OF EVENT

FOR YEARS--

\h\hEVER SINCE THE 1977 OPENING
OF THE TRANS ALASKA PIPELINE.

THE 48-INCH PIPE

\hCARRIES CRUDE OIL SOUTH
FROM ALASKA’S PRUDHOE BAY.

\h\hIT’S SPECIALLY BUILT
TO BE EARTHQUAKE RESISTANT.

THE PIPELINE ITSELF IS NOT
\hBOLTED TO ITS SUPPORTS.

INSTEAD, IT RESTS ON SLIDERS.

IF THE EARTH STARTS TO RUMBLE,

THE PIPELINE IS DESIGNED
\hTO SLIDE SIDE TO SIDE

AND LITERALLY WIGGLE
LIKE A GIANT SNAKE,

INSTEAD OF CRACKING AND SPILLING
ITS CARGO OF CRUDE.

THE TRANS ALASKA PIPELINE

RUNS FOR 800 MILES
ACROSS THE STATE.

UP TO 15% OF THE UNITED STATES’
\h\h\h\h\h\hDOMESTIC OIL PRODUCTION

FLOWS THROUGH IT EVERY YEAR

AND INTO THESE TANKS

AT THE MARINE TERMINAL AT VALDEZ
IN PRINCE WILLIAM SOUND,

ALASKA’S NORTHERNMOST
\h\hICE-FREE HARBOR.

FROM HERE, THE OIL IS LOADED
\h\h\hONTO GIANT TANKER SHIPS.

JUST AFTER MIDNIGHT
ON MARCH 24, 1989,

\hTHE EXXON VALDEZ
LEFT THE TERMINAL,

\h\h\h\hPASSED THIS BUOY
AT THE MOUTH OF THE HARBOR,

\h\h\h\hAND HEADED OUT
INTO PRINCE WILLIAM SOUND

WITH A FULL LOAD OF CRUDE,

WHEN IT SUDDENLY RAN AGROUND.

IT WAS THE LARGEST OIL SPILL
IN U.S. HISTORY AT THE TIME.

ENVIRONMENTALISTS ON THE SCENE

PREDICTED PRINCE WILLIAM SOUND
\h\h\h\h\hWOULD NEVER BE THE SAME.

\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\h25 YEARS AND
A $2.5 BILLION CLEAN-UP LATER,

THEY’VE BEEN PROVED RIGHT.

\hTHINGS LOOK GREAT
ON THE SURFACE HERE.

\h\hBUT OIL STILL LURKS
UNDER ALMOST EVERY ROCK.

SOME AREAS ARE STILL AS TOXIC AS
THEY WERE RIGHT AFTER THE SPILL.

THEY MAY STAY THAT WAY
FOR HUNDREDS OF YEARS.

BUT THAT DOESN’T MEAN
THE CLEAN-UP EFFORTS

HAVE ALL BEEN IN VAIN.

\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\h\hWITHOUT THEM,
THINGS HERE WOULD BE MUCH WORSE.

BUT NOTHING IN ALASKA SYMBOLIZES
NATURE’S REJUVENATING POWER

OR THE VALUE OF HUMAN ACTION
\h\h\hTO SAVE THE ENVIRONMENT

MORE THAN THIS:

A ONCE-RARE BALD EAGLE STANDING
\h\h\h\h\h\hSENTINEL BESIDE THE SEA.

IN THE 1960s,

\h\hTHE UNINTENDED IMPACT
OF A CHEMICAL KNOWN AS DDT

\hDROVE THESE GREAT BIRDS
TO THE EDGE OF EXTINCTION

BY MAKING THE SHELLS
OF THEIR EGGS TOO THIN.

\h\hPUBLIC PRESSURE FORCED
THE GOVERNMENT TO BAN DDT.

TODAY, THE BALD EAGLES
\h\h\h\hARE BACK--

\h\hINSPIRING REMINDERS
OF WHAT WE CAN ACCOMPLISH

WHEN WE WORK TOGETHER--

STIRRING SYMBOLS OF AMERICA

AND LIVING ICONS OF ALASKA...

THE GREAT STATE

\h\h\h\h\hWHERE ADVENTURERS STILL
PIT THEMSELVES AGAINST NATURE,

\hDREAMERS STILL COME
TO SEEK THEIR FORTUNES,

AND THE CALL OF THE WILD
\h\h\h\hSTILL ECHOES

\h\hACROSS AMERICA’S
LAST FROZEN FRONTIER.