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- [Narrator] Welcome to the 14th Annual
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Reel Rock Film Tour.
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(gentle guitar music)
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Presented by The North Face.
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Since 1966 we have viewed
walls not as obstacles
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but as opportunities.
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From the big walls of Yosemite
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to the high peaks of the Himalayas.
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We were searching for a
personal kind of freedom.
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00:00:23,640 --> 00:00:26,030
In this pursuit we found a community
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strengthened by different stories,
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00:00:28,350 --> 00:00:31,410
experiences, and perspectives.
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This community has shown us
that the only way forward,
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is together.
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Walls are meant for climbing.
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- [Climber] Okay, ready?
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Go.
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- History begins.
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You have no idea what to expect
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- [Nina] I know that I can do it,
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it's like, game on.
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(screams)
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- No gear, no falls!
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- [Narrator] Reel Rock 14 is also brought
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to you by Black Diamond.
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We design and manufacture the most
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innovative mountain
equipment in the world.
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Live, climb, repeat, Black Diamond.
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Yeti, in the van, in
the dirt, on the trail,
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wherever you climb, Yeti
is built for the wild.
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(upbeat music)
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Trublue Auto Belay, from
the start of your journey
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to the goals you dream of reaching.
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Most tested, most trusted, most true.
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Reel Rock is also proud to partner with
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The American Alpine Club.
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Love to climb?
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Join the club.
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And Access Fund, protecting
Americas climbing.
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(upbeat music)
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And now, get ready for four new films.
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The High Road, United States of Joe's.
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(screams in pain)
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an exclusive sneak preview
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And our feature presentation,
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- Falling.
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The Nose speed record.
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- [Male Rock Climber
Voiceover] This has gotta be
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the coolest racetrack in the world.
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- 16 minutes faster.
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- [Narrator] It's time for Reel Rock 14.
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Advertise your product or brand here
contact www.OpenSubtitles.org today
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(sounds of brushing teeth)
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(zipper zipping)
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(upbeat guitar music)
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- We're out here in Roy, New Mexico.
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A really big sandstone bouldering
area, very remote feeling.
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It's definitely flown under the
radar for the past few years
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which is pretty nice.
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There's a good chance that
you'll be the only ones out here.
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- Nina and I have a
really good relationship,
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we go out climbing a lot,
She's super motivated.
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- [Interviewer] Who climbs
harder on the boulders?
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- Oh Nina climbs way
harder on the boulders.
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- Come on James.
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(James grunting)
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- Holy shit.
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Sometimes she can warm up on my project.
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- This is so fun.
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- [James] Nice, come on Nina.
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- So cool, yay!
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When I go out climbing, I'm
not necessarily looking for
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the hardest grade, I'm
really driven by aesthetics.
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- Nice, good, come on.
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- I wanna look for the
most beautiful lines.
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- That's good, I got you, come on.
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- The ones that make me
react in this visceral way.
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And it just so happens
to be the tall ones.
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- Nina likes climbing taller problems
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which can be a little
nerve wracking sometimes.
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(James speaking faintly)
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- Oh my God, that was kind of exciting.
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- Yeah?
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- I'll see a line and it'll
be this really cool big thing
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and I'll think, do I actually
wanna climb this thing?
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Is it worth it for me?
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And if it is, next step is
to check it out on the rope.
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Whoop.
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Make sure I know what the holds are
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and what my beta is like.
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It's about dealing with
the fear on a rope,
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really immersing myself in it.
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So in the real moment of climbing it,
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I can feel that fear still
rise up on an instinctual level
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but just be able to manage it a lot better
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and be like okay, I feel this
fear, I hear it, I sense it,
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but I don't have to listen to it.
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(electronic music)
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(upbeat music)
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(deep breathing)
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- [James] Good job.
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- Ye!
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- [James] It's easy to
be inspired by Nina.
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She's always looking to push it harder.
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Looking for the next big thing.
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- For the past couple years
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I had this seemingly far away goal
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to climb this beautiful boulder
called Too Big To Flail.
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(dramatic music)
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It's in the Buttermilks
which is world renowned
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for very, very, big boulders.
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(dramatic piano music)
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It's probably around 50 feet or so.
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You walk up to the base, you look at it,
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and your eyes just keep going up.
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(slow dramatic music)
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You think, oh my gosh, it's just sheer.
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(slow dramatic music)
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I first heard about Too Big To Flail
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watching Alex Honnold climb
it in one of the Reel Rocks
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way back in the day.
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- I wrapped down it and
tried all the moves.
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Oh shit.
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And just thinking about doing it,
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I was like this is terrifying.
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Shit.
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- [Rock Climber Spotter] You okay?
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- [Alex] Yup.
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- Seeing Alex on that climb,
my heart was in my throat.
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How can he do that?
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That's just totally nuts.
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Never did I think, oh maybe
I could do that one day.
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- [Colette] When Nina
started coming on the scene,
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2010, 2011, she was just
one of those young guns
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coming up quick.
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(upbeat music)
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- [James] Solid.
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- [Colette] Yeah.
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Doing double digit grades
just kind of effortlessly.
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- [James] Come on.
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- [Nina] I really like
doing these hard problems.
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- [James] Nice one.
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- Yes, it feels so good.
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But I realized, I wanna
expand a little bit,
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push myself mentally.
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My first highball was probably
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this super overhanging
V10 in Massachusetts
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called Speed of Life.
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It's got a terrible landing,
you have to like jump off
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to the ledge behind or you
fall down this big chute.
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I tried for a couple years
and I fell so many times.
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It really honed my sense of falling.
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- [James] Nice, get in there.
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(Nina screaming happily)
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- That gave me confidence
to try these climbs
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that were taller.
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I tried Evilution Direct.
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- [James] Come on Nina!
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00:09:19,660 --> 00:09:22,480
- [Nina] I'm at the lip and
I've got this heel hook.
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- [James] Yeah, come on.
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- [Nina] And I remember everything
happening in slow motion.
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Just like, no.
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I saw my knee coming up
straight towards my face.
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(slow motion grunting)
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But at the last second I
moved my knee out of the way
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so I was totally fine.
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I realized in know how to fall well.
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I could orientate myself in
space and control my landing.
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I just took a few minutes
and did it next go.
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Done!
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- [James] Nice Nina!
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(upbeat music)
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- [Colette] Go Nina!
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00:10:01,862 --> 00:10:04,700
(group cheering and clapping)
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00:10:04,700 --> 00:10:07,569
- [Nina] I started to seek
out these massive boulders.
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00:10:07,569 --> 00:10:10,840
(slow upbeat music)
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00:10:10,840 --> 00:10:14,083
Building my mental strength
in a step-by-step manner.
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00:10:15,240 --> 00:10:18,518
Anyone can do it, it just takes practice.
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00:10:18,518 --> 00:10:20,920
(Nina screaming)
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00:10:20,920 --> 00:10:23,152
- [Colette] In the last five years
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Nina's been going through a
process, doing all the steps.
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- Yes!
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- To get to the level she's at.
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But I also think it just takes
a certain kind of mentality.
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Maybe Nina just has that gene
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that makes her a little less fearful.
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- Oh my God.
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- [Colette] She has this
ability to access the risk,
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keep a calm mind, and just go for it.
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- [James] Oh yeah, come on.
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Oh yeah, come on.
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Yeah!
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00:10:58,458 --> 00:10:59,993
- [Colette] Woo!
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Yeah!
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00:11:03,650 --> 00:11:08,650
Two years ago she really took
another step up with Ambrosia.
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- [Nina] Sup dude?
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- I was there with her filming it
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00:11:13,270 --> 00:11:16,023
and it was kind of terrifying.
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00:11:16,930 --> 00:11:21,000
- [Nina] On a boulder like
Ambrosia it's full commitment.
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When you're that high
up, there's no falling.
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- [Colette] You just
kinda hold your breath
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and just trust that she
wouldn't put herself
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00:11:29,050 --> 00:11:32,540
in that position unless
she was 100% confident
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00:11:32,540 --> 00:11:33,590
that she could do it.
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00:11:36,039 --> 00:11:39,206
(slow dramatic music)
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00:11:41,260 --> 00:11:45,280
- [Nina] When I did
Ambrosia it was perfect.
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00:11:45,280 --> 00:11:48,353
I had no fear, I wasn't
thinking about anything.
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I just let my body climb.
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00:11:52,070 --> 00:11:53,389
Yes!
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00:11:53,389 --> 00:11:54,222
- [James] So good!
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00:11:54,222 --> 00:11:55,055
- [Nina] Yes!
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00:11:55,055 --> 00:11:56,850
I got to the top and I felt ecstatic.
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It felt like a religious experience.
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00:11:58,652 --> 00:11:59,485
Yay!
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00:12:01,235 --> 00:12:02,820
- [James] That's so awesome, yeah!
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00:12:02,820 --> 00:12:04,860
- [Colette] So sick dude!
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00:12:04,860 --> 00:12:05,970
- [Nina] James was there
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00:12:05,970 --> 00:12:08,780
and he definitely had the poker face.
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00:12:08,780 --> 00:12:10,357
- I'm glad you didn't fall.
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00:12:10,357 --> 00:12:11,190
- Me too.
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00:12:12,050 --> 00:12:14,930
He looked calm and collected
but I know underneath
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00:12:14,930 --> 00:12:16,400
he was shaking like a leaf.
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00:12:16,400 --> 00:12:17,789
- [Colette] Were you nervous?
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00:12:17,789 --> 00:12:19,406
- Yeah, I kinda wanted to puke.
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00:12:19,406 --> 00:12:21,470
(Colette laughs)
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00:12:21,470 --> 00:12:24,430
I mean no, no, not nervous at all.
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00:12:24,430 --> 00:12:28,670
- [Colette] James understands
the consequences of falling.
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00:12:28,670 --> 00:12:33,670
When he was younger he was
free soloing, took a huge fall,
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00:12:34,740 --> 00:12:36,923
and put himself in the hospital.
230
00:12:38,610 --> 00:12:41,840
- I was climbing in
Joshua Tree National Park.
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00:12:41,840 --> 00:12:44,373
The way backing up,
this really cool crack,
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00:12:45,287 --> 00:12:47,760
and I was about 10 feet from the summit.
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00:12:47,760 --> 00:12:50,273
I felt myself barn door a little
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00:12:51,610 --> 00:12:56,053
and then I fell and I fell
70 feet and hit this ledge.
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00:12:57,780 --> 00:13:02,707
I spent 81 days in the hospital
and had eight surgeries.
236
00:13:02,707 --> 00:13:07,707
It took me about a year to
go from prone on my back
237
00:13:07,950 --> 00:13:09,383
to climbing again.
238
00:13:12,650 --> 00:13:14,683
Seeing Nina do a lot of these highballs,
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00:13:15,660 --> 00:13:17,540
I understand what compels her
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00:13:19,940 --> 00:13:24,100
but I never want her to
have an accident like that.
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00:13:24,100 --> 00:13:26,850
(peaceful music)
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00:13:29,626 --> 00:13:30,970
When she first told me she wanted to do
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00:13:30,970 --> 00:13:34,923
Too Big To Flail I wasn't
exactly enthusiastic.
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00:13:35,980 --> 00:13:37,543
It's just more dangerous.
245
00:13:40,670 --> 00:13:42,940
But you don't wanna
discourage your partner
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00:13:42,940 --> 00:13:44,023
from their goals.
247
00:13:45,380 --> 00:13:48,380
It's important just to be supportive.
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00:13:48,380 --> 00:13:49,980
Gonna pre-make the coffee, yeah.
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00:13:50,865 --> 00:13:53,570
- That's a keeper right there (laughs).
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00:13:53,570 --> 00:13:56,260
- If she's gonna do something like this
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00:13:56,260 --> 00:13:59,798
you can't project your own fears to much.
252
00:13:59,798 --> 00:14:02,310
(dramatic music)
253
00:14:02,310 --> 00:14:04,390
- I'm not sure if I would
call Too Big To Flail
254
00:14:04,390 --> 00:14:05,963
the next logical step.
255
00:14:07,250 --> 00:14:10,473
I don't know if any of this
is even logical to begin with.
256
00:14:11,540 --> 00:14:13,170
- Okay, you're on belay.
257
00:14:13,170 --> 00:14:15,070
- [Nina] The process began.
258
00:14:15,070 --> 00:14:17,163
Top rope in, check out the moves.
259
00:14:18,315 --> 00:14:22,777
It's slabby, it's insecure,
and it's really reachy.
260
00:14:24,750 --> 00:14:28,580
I had seen Honnold on tip-toes
reaching between his holds
261
00:14:28,580 --> 00:14:31,148
so I knew that I had
to do it in my own way.
262
00:14:31,148 --> 00:14:32,308
- Is the foothold good?
263
00:14:32,308 --> 00:14:33,424
- No.
264
00:14:33,424 --> 00:14:34,674
- [James] Fuck.
265
00:14:38,150 --> 00:14:40,110
- [Nina] A couple of people have fallen
266
00:14:40,110 --> 00:14:41,563
off of this middle section.
267
00:14:42,480 --> 00:14:45,073
This guy Nick took a ground fall.
268
00:14:46,506 --> 00:14:47,339
- Fuck!
269
00:14:47,339 --> 00:14:48,860
- [Nina] Another climber had to jump off
270
00:14:48,860 --> 00:14:50,740
and fractured his ankle
271
00:14:51,940 --> 00:14:55,283
but no one's fallen off the top crux's.
272
00:14:58,380 --> 00:14:59,213
God damn.
273
00:15:01,200 --> 00:15:03,770
- [James] Nina figured out the crux moves
274
00:15:06,293 --> 00:15:09,757
and then on the top
section she jumps her feet.
275
00:15:18,100 --> 00:15:21,193
Jumping, 45 feet off the
ground without a rope.
276
00:15:22,720 --> 00:15:27,720
That's not ideal but she was
very methodical about it.
277
00:15:30,111 --> 00:15:32,870
(piano music)
278
00:15:32,870 --> 00:15:35,970
- [Nina] I worked the climb so many times
279
00:15:37,700 --> 00:15:39,850
just getting it down
to a point where I know
280
00:15:39,850 --> 00:15:43,350
that I have the physical
capability to crimp on these holds
281
00:15:43,350 --> 00:15:46,481
and to place my feet and
then to keep moving upwards
282
00:15:46,481 --> 00:15:50,150
because when I don't have a
rope, I won't have a choice,
283
00:15:50,150 --> 00:15:51,963
there's no backing off.
284
00:15:52,835 --> 00:15:55,585
(peaceful music)
285
00:15:57,900 --> 00:16:02,900
I just wanna reach this
state of action of my body
286
00:16:03,020 --> 00:16:05,371
and tranquility in my mind.
287
00:16:05,371 --> 00:16:08,288
(slow piano music)
288
00:16:11,020 --> 00:16:12,710
- [James] Today's the day.
289
00:16:12,710 --> 00:16:14,006
She's going for it.
290
00:16:14,006 --> 00:16:16,923
(slow piano music)
291
00:16:17,792 --> 00:16:21,897
I got the pads up but
this thing's 50 feet tall
292
00:16:21,897 --> 00:16:25,543
there's not a whole lot
we can do to spot her.
293
00:16:27,620 --> 00:16:30,810
I mean, she's up there by herself.
294
00:16:30,810 --> 00:16:33,977
(slow dramatic music)
295
00:16:35,570 --> 00:16:37,873
(Nina deep breathing)
296
00:16:37,873 --> 00:16:41,123
(eerie dramatic music)
297
00:17:03,673 --> 00:17:06,340
(Nina grunting)
298
00:18:09,604 --> 00:18:12,937
(upbeat dramatic music)
299
00:19:29,770 --> 00:19:34,280
- Being in tall places,
I love that feeling
300
00:19:34,280 --> 00:19:38,080
of absolute certainty and
control and confidence
301
00:19:38,080 --> 00:19:41,290
in a situation that
seems totally dangerous.
302
00:19:41,290 --> 00:19:43,080
I'm so psyched!
303
00:19:43,080 --> 00:19:46,817
But I can say with
certainty, I've got this.
304
00:19:46,817 --> 00:19:49,817
(slow upbeat music)
305
00:20:20,208 --> 00:20:22,000
(slow country music)
306
00:20:22,000 --> 00:20:24,430
- I talk to people and they
say, where do you live?
307
00:20:24,430 --> 00:20:25,960
And I say Emery County and they say,
308
00:20:25,960 --> 00:20:27,360
we don't know where that is.
309
00:20:28,400 --> 00:20:32,123
Well it's in southeast, central Utah.
310
00:20:32,980 --> 00:20:34,380
- Middle of nowhere.
311
00:20:35,420 --> 00:20:38,363
Things haven't changed for
a long time around here.
312
00:20:40,050 --> 00:20:43,233
Until the climbers started
showing up in Joes Valley.
313
00:20:44,288 --> 00:20:47,205
(slow banjo music)
314
00:20:52,522 --> 00:20:54,630
(upbeat music)
315
00:20:54,630 --> 00:20:56,920
- Our crew of climbers
came out of Salt Lake City
316
00:20:56,920 --> 00:20:58,210
in the mid 90's.
317
00:20:58,210 --> 00:20:59,820
That generation of climber, in that era,
318
00:20:59,820 --> 00:21:02,180
bouldering was the new thing.
319
00:21:02,180 --> 00:21:04,620
- There was no harnesses,
there was no rope,
320
00:21:04,620 --> 00:21:07,820
this was a new style of
what climbing could be.
321
00:21:07,820 --> 00:21:08,841
- Come on!
322
00:21:08,841 --> 00:21:10,870
- We were completely
obsessed with our little world
323
00:21:10,870 --> 00:21:12,460
of burning each other off
324
00:21:12,460 --> 00:21:14,890
and trying to get as strong as possible.
325
00:21:14,890 --> 00:21:17,895
- The culture of it was young, punk rock,
326
00:21:17,895 --> 00:21:20,770
fuck everything we're just
gonna go do what we want.
327
00:21:20,770 --> 00:21:23,900
Climbing back then, it
was more on the fringe.
328
00:21:23,900 --> 00:21:25,510
- I think we were definitely outsiders.
329
00:21:25,510 --> 00:21:28,333
We were dallying from what's
going on in the real world,
330
00:21:29,190 --> 00:21:30,390
on the road all the time.
331
00:21:30,390 --> 00:21:32,700
- We were fiending for a new rock.
332
00:21:32,700 --> 00:21:34,490
So when somebody says hey
there's great boulders
333
00:21:34,490 --> 00:21:36,935
two and a half hours away
from Salt Lake, let's go.
334
00:21:36,935 --> 00:21:37,970
- Oh my God, there's a bird.
335
00:21:37,970 --> 00:21:42,001
- We drove to Joes
Valley, just like holy crap.
336
00:21:42,001 --> 00:21:44,478
(dramatic music)
337
00:21:44,478 --> 00:21:47,200
There's literally tens
of thousands of boulders.
338
00:21:47,200 --> 00:21:49,110
This has everything we've ever looked for
339
00:21:49,110 --> 00:21:51,393
in a bouldering area, like this is sick.
340
00:21:52,860 --> 00:21:53,810
- There were suddenly these like
341
00:21:53,810 --> 00:21:55,703
striking black streak boulders.
342
00:21:56,640 --> 00:22:00,450
There was slab bouldering,
steep bouldering,
343
00:22:00,450 --> 00:22:01,573
super high bouldering.
344
00:22:03,560 --> 00:22:05,760
- The Wild West mentallity
of let's just go
345
00:22:05,760 --> 00:22:08,650
just around that corner
and see what's over there.
346
00:22:08,650 --> 00:22:11,282
- The more you hike,
the more you're gonna find--
347
00:22:11,282 --> 00:22:12,524
- Nice!
348
00:22:12,524 --> 00:22:13,560
Nice.
349
00:22:13,560 --> 00:22:16,042
- Classic climbing,
then you just come here,
350
00:22:16,042 --> 00:22:17,250
and it was awesome.
351
00:22:17,250 --> 00:22:19,479
(dramatic music)
352
00:22:19,479 --> 00:22:23,896
- Hold on (grunts in pain).
353
00:22:26,830 --> 00:22:28,610
- Steven, he was really young,
354
00:22:28,610 --> 00:22:30,672
really friggin strong.
355
00:22:30,672 --> 00:22:33,696
(Steven screaming in pain)
356
00:22:33,696 --> 00:22:34,529
- I want my mommy.
357
00:22:34,529 --> 00:22:35,870
Can't put that in the video.
358
00:22:35,870 --> 00:22:37,590
- Steven Jeffrey,
he went down to Joes Valley
359
00:22:37,590 --> 00:22:40,910
and basically found his personal canvas.
360
00:22:40,910 --> 00:22:43,010
He put up some amazing problems.
361
00:22:43,010 --> 00:22:46,130
- So it's been, let's see, 25 years right?
362
00:22:46,130 --> 00:22:47,291
35 years?
363
00:22:47,291 --> 00:22:48,457
(laughs) 25 years--
364
00:22:49,710 --> 00:22:53,150
I've been coming to Joes
for over the last 20 years.
365
00:22:53,150 --> 00:22:56,320
I was 16, 17 years old.
366
00:22:56,320 --> 00:23:00,050
I would come down in my RV,
kind of like runaway style kid
367
00:23:00,050 --> 00:23:02,153
going climbing on these rocks.
368
00:23:03,320 --> 00:23:04,840
It was just complete freedom
369
00:23:07,600 --> 00:23:11,370
but it felt like an alien place in a way.
370
00:23:11,370 --> 00:23:15,100
Joes Valley sits basically
in the dead middle of Utah.
371
00:23:15,100 --> 00:23:18,970
This rural area, it would
almost make me anxious
372
00:23:18,970 --> 00:23:19,860
sometimes when I come out here
373
00:23:19,860 --> 00:23:22,077
'cause I was this naive kid from the city
374
00:23:22,077 --> 00:23:23,820
and here was a whole different world.
375
00:23:23,820 --> 00:23:25,593
It was different culture down here.
376
00:23:26,570 --> 00:23:29,047
There was small town next to Joes Valley.`
377
00:23:29,940 --> 00:23:32,010
I was actually scared to
even go in the grocery store
378
00:23:32,010 --> 00:23:34,050
to buy supplies 'cause it's like,
379
00:23:34,050 --> 00:23:36,053
man these are mean muggin people.
380
00:23:36,970 --> 00:23:38,460
- Yeah check this out.
381
00:23:38,460 --> 00:23:39,920
I remember going to a bar down there,
382
00:23:39,920 --> 00:23:41,527
the video camera dressed like a climber.
383
00:23:41,527 --> 00:23:43,670
one of the bartenders
just shaking her hat at us
384
00:23:43,670 --> 00:23:45,032
and pointing at the door.
385
00:23:45,032 --> 00:23:45,865
- [Bar Patron] Get this
motherfucker right here
386
00:23:45,865 --> 00:23:47,539
to shut the video camera off.
387
00:23:47,539 --> 00:23:48,720
- It wasn't like they didn't like us,
388
00:23:48,720 --> 00:23:50,346
it just they knew we weren't gonna fit in,
389
00:23:50,346 --> 00:23:52,920
it's not a safe place for everybody.
390
00:23:52,920 --> 00:23:54,870
When you go down there,
you're in their country.
391
00:23:54,870 --> 00:23:56,970
- I remember camping the
bottom of the left fork
392
00:23:56,970 --> 00:23:58,907
and some dudes in a
big giant truck pull up
393
00:23:58,907 --> 00:24:00,530
and they're like hey you fucking hippies
394
00:24:00,530 --> 00:24:02,180
and start shooting a bunch of bullets
395
00:24:02,180 --> 00:24:05,120
over the top of our tents
and we're just like, ah.
396
00:24:05,120 --> 00:24:07,608
- What the fuck are you doing?
397
00:24:07,608 --> 00:24:08,890
- We're camping here man.
398
00:24:08,890 --> 00:24:11,690
- The locals, they didn't know who we were
399
00:24:11,690 --> 00:24:13,555
and what we were doing.
400
00:24:13,555 --> 00:24:16,138
(upbeat music)
401
00:24:16,980 --> 00:24:19,610
- I can remember seeing the strange guys
402
00:24:19,610 --> 00:24:21,383
with the mattresses on their back.
403
00:24:23,042 --> 00:24:25,318
And I'm thinking, what in the world?
404
00:24:25,318 --> 00:24:26,160
(grunts)
405
00:24:26,160 --> 00:24:27,730
- They're doing what?
406
00:24:27,730 --> 00:24:29,680
They're climbing on our rocks (laughs)?
407
00:24:31,940 --> 00:24:33,240
- I mean I just couldn't imagine
408
00:24:33,240 --> 00:24:36,000
that being anything he'd really wanna do.
409
00:24:36,000 --> 00:24:37,729
- Ow, fuck.
410
00:24:37,729 --> 00:24:39,080
Fucking ow.
411
00:24:39,080 --> 00:24:42,230
- Being an outsider
and looking at bouldering
412
00:24:42,230 --> 00:24:43,893
just looks really weird.
413
00:24:43,893 --> 00:24:46,476
(upbeat music)
414
00:24:47,960 --> 00:24:49,950
- They all wanna climb up the hardest part
415
00:24:49,950 --> 00:24:52,440
of this 12 foot rock.
416
00:24:52,440 --> 00:24:53,450
- Ow!
417
00:24:53,450 --> 00:24:54,807
- It was just--
418
00:24:54,807 --> 00:24:55,640
- Ow!
419
00:24:59,981 --> 00:25:00,814
- You okay?
420
00:25:00,814 --> 00:25:01,647
- Yeah, I'm good.
421
00:25:01,647 --> 00:25:02,480
- My first thoughts?
422
00:25:02,480 --> 00:25:03,313
They're crazy.
423
00:25:03,313 --> 00:25:05,860
(screams and barks)
424
00:25:05,860 --> 00:25:07,190
- In my head I kept thinking,
425
00:25:07,190 --> 00:25:10,473
do you not have rocks where you live?
426
00:25:11,750 --> 00:25:15,270
- Here in Emery County,
this is a small community.
427
00:25:15,270 --> 00:25:17,600
Everybody kind of knows each other.
428
00:25:17,600 --> 00:25:21,650
We're cowboys and coal
miners and power plant folks.
429
00:25:21,650 --> 00:25:23,980
- We're quite a conservative group.
430
00:25:23,980 --> 00:25:27,910
- We are Mormons so we are
very, very family oriented.
431
00:25:27,910 --> 00:25:31,500
- Yeah we're very, very churchy
here I guess you could say.
432
00:25:31,500 --> 00:25:33,723
- We all try to protect our own.
433
00:25:36,020 --> 00:25:39,140
So when we saw the rock
climbers coming to the area
434
00:25:40,657 --> 00:25:43,380
it was like hey, we don't
know who these people are.
435
00:25:43,380 --> 00:25:46,040
- I was a manager at Food
Ranch here in Orangeville.
436
00:25:46,040 --> 00:25:48,590
- Food Ranch the hot
spot for the climbers.
437
00:25:48,590 --> 00:25:49,423
So this is where I come
438
00:25:49,423 --> 00:25:51,740
whenever I have a serious
case of the munchies.
439
00:25:51,740 --> 00:25:55,470
- The owner was scared, he
didn't know why they were here.
440
00:25:55,470 --> 00:25:57,760
They dressed a little
different, they had the dreads,
441
00:25:57,760 --> 00:26:00,390
the man buns, you know we
knew that they were showering
442
00:26:00,390 --> 00:26:01,860
in our bathrooms 'cause the bathroom floor
443
00:26:01,860 --> 00:26:03,483
would be wet, little smelly.
444
00:26:04,580 --> 00:26:07,410
- At Food Ranch I'd be hanging
out there with my friends
445
00:26:07,410 --> 00:26:10,980
and these people would walk in
and they look like vagabonds.
446
00:26:10,980 --> 00:26:14,173
Old dirty clothes like they'd
been out walking in the mud.
447
00:26:15,210 --> 00:26:19,003
Just kind of gross, I
feel so bad (laughs).
448
00:26:19,003 --> 00:26:22,490
- Especially back then, the climbers were,
449
00:26:22,490 --> 00:26:24,870
I mean the dirtbag was
the real deal you know,
450
00:26:24,870 --> 00:26:28,410
like your down jacket was soiled.
451
00:26:28,410 --> 00:26:30,160
You look like a homeless person.
452
00:26:30,160 --> 00:26:31,920
- I don't mean this in no bad way
453
00:26:31,920 --> 00:26:35,020
but they reminded me of back in the 70's,
454
00:26:35,020 --> 00:26:37,823
the hippies, just free-spirited people.
455
00:26:37,823 --> 00:26:38,656
- Yeah!
456
00:26:38,656 --> 00:26:41,350
- You can tell the climbers just by,
457
00:26:41,350 --> 00:26:44,870
they look a little disheveled and tired.
458
00:26:44,870 --> 00:26:46,280
In fact we've heard a lot of climbers
459
00:26:46,280 --> 00:26:47,510
call themselves dirt baggers.
460
00:26:47,510 --> 00:26:49,380
- Yeah, we're scared to say that
461
00:26:49,380 --> 00:26:52,030
because we didn't ever
want to offend anybody
462
00:26:52,030 --> 00:26:55,429
but they'll tell us, we're dirt baggers.
463
00:26:55,429 --> 00:27:00,250
- And so they're here,
where are they coming from?
464
00:27:00,250 --> 00:27:01,970
And coming into our little town.
465
00:27:01,970 --> 00:27:04,410
- There were a lot of
people talking, in fact,
466
00:27:04,410 --> 00:27:06,310
there was a lot of concern.
467
00:27:06,310 --> 00:27:08,440
Are these guys going to kidnap our kids?
468
00:27:08,440 --> 00:27:10,680
- My mom was always
like, Cambrie stay away
469
00:27:10,680 --> 00:27:13,550
from those people
they're probably weirdos.
470
00:27:13,550 --> 00:27:15,610
- Yeah I wasn't exactly the poster boy
471
00:27:15,610 --> 00:27:18,127
for the Mormon community.
472
00:27:18,127 --> 00:27:20,420
My style,
hey what's happening?
473
00:27:20,420 --> 00:27:23,273
I was Mad Max versus Flea.
474
00:27:24,418 --> 00:27:26,900
(screams)
475
00:27:26,900 --> 00:27:29,330
My van always had some sort of skull.
476
00:27:29,330 --> 00:27:32,360
The bone shifter, got my
little friend hanging here,
477
00:27:32,360 --> 00:27:34,470
here's been out in the
sun a little bit to long.
478
00:27:34,470 --> 00:27:35,363
Water fountain.
479
00:27:36,970 --> 00:27:38,790
- Whenever Jason stopped at a gas station
480
00:27:38,790 --> 00:27:41,358
he would put in six
dollars and 66 cents of gas
481
00:27:41,358 --> 00:27:42,743
just to be weird.
482
00:27:44,240 --> 00:27:46,820
- Poster boy for being a freak.
483
00:27:46,820 --> 00:27:50,763
- We've heard that there's some
goofy mother fucker around.
484
00:27:52,890 --> 00:27:56,366
- I wanted to make people
think, confuse them,
485
00:27:56,366 --> 00:27:58,913
and I think it succeeded to come extent.
486
00:28:00,206 --> 00:28:02,230
(birds chirping)
487
00:28:02,230 --> 00:28:04,520
- For years there was just
a small group of people
488
00:28:04,520 --> 00:28:07,010
climbing on the rocks in Joes Valley
489
00:28:07,010 --> 00:28:10,310
but climbing areas go through changes.
490
00:28:10,310 --> 00:28:12,040
The first turning point of Joes
491
00:28:12,040 --> 00:28:14,490
was descent of the Black
Lung from Ben Moon.
492
00:28:14,490 --> 00:28:15,890
- Ben Moon was
one of the most famous
493
00:28:15,890 --> 00:28:17,670
climbers in the world.
494
00:28:17,670 --> 00:28:20,470
- He came over from
England to Joes Valley.
495
00:28:20,470 --> 00:28:22,280
He was trying an undone project.
496
00:28:22,280 --> 00:28:24,650
It was absolutely gorgeous.
497
00:28:24,650 --> 00:28:25,483
- Nice.
498
00:28:25,483 --> 00:28:29,070
- Technical,
powerful, really hard.
499
00:28:29,070 --> 00:28:29,910
At the time it could have been
500
00:28:29,910 --> 00:28:31,868
the hardest boulder problem in the world .
501
00:28:31,868 --> 00:28:34,620
(screams in pain)
502
00:28:34,620 --> 00:28:36,310
- It became this epic battle
503
00:28:36,310 --> 00:28:38,080
Ben had with the problem.
504
00:28:38,080 --> 00:28:39,740
- Come on Ben you dozy fuck.
505
00:28:40,663 --> 00:28:41,674
(screams in pain)
506
00:28:41,674 --> 00:28:42,507
Oh fuck.
507
00:28:42,507 --> 00:28:45,447
- I was thinking, I hope no
locals can here us out here.
508
00:28:45,447 --> 00:28:46,363
Fuck.
509
00:28:47,563 --> 00:28:50,063
Piss off snow you fucking wanker.
510
00:28:51,013 --> 00:28:53,763
(dramatic drums)
511
00:28:57,540 --> 00:28:58,373
- Nice.
512
00:28:58,373 --> 00:29:00,210
- When Ben did Black Lung,
513
00:29:00,210 --> 00:29:01,990
I mean this is like the perfect lining
514
00:29:01,990 --> 00:29:03,250
in a developing area.
515
00:29:03,250 --> 00:29:06,180
- Fucking God damn it
man, I got that perfect.
516
00:29:06,180 --> 00:29:07,644
- It put Joes on the map.
517
00:29:07,644 --> 00:29:09,190
- Published in all the magazines
518
00:29:09,190 --> 00:29:10,570
throughout the world.
519
00:29:10,570 --> 00:29:13,500
You'd pick up Grimper in France
and there's a picture of Ben
520
00:29:13,500 --> 00:29:15,510
climbing this iconic boulder problem.
521
00:29:15,510 --> 00:29:18,083
So now everyone wants
to come to Joes Valley.
522
00:29:19,540 --> 00:29:23,054
- The climbing population
started growing rapidly.
523
00:29:23,054 --> 00:29:24,500
- All of a sudden
there's a thousand people
524
00:29:24,500 --> 00:29:25,540
going over a weekend.
525
00:29:25,540 --> 00:29:28,290
Sprinter vans just
bombarding up the canyon.
526
00:29:28,290 --> 00:29:30,760
- Tents all over the side of the road.
527
00:29:30,760 --> 00:29:32,580
- It's an invasion
of the entire world
528
00:29:32,580 --> 00:29:33,950
on this little place.
529
00:29:33,950 --> 00:29:35,910
- I can understand
locals being like,
530
00:29:35,910 --> 00:29:37,700
oh it's a nuisance.
531
00:29:37,700 --> 00:29:40,360
- Locals worried about
to many people here,
532
00:29:40,360 --> 00:29:42,120
it was the us against them type deal
533
00:29:42,120 --> 00:29:44,560
and they're coming into our
towns and our communities.
534
00:29:44,560 --> 00:29:47,830
- A lot of townspeople
really was kind of against
535
00:29:47,830 --> 00:29:50,890
the climbers coming in and
only wanted to keep them out.
536
00:29:50,890 --> 00:29:53,610
- Two climbers were sitting
on the lawn at the library
537
00:29:53,610 --> 00:29:55,200
and got the cops call on them.
538
00:29:55,200 --> 00:29:57,870
- Honestly we thought
we were being invaded
539
00:29:57,870 --> 00:29:59,935
by a bunch of potheads.
540
00:29:59,935 --> 00:30:01,580
(police siren)
541
00:30:01,580 --> 00:30:03,290
We found a little bit of pot on,
542
00:30:03,290 --> 00:30:06,009
pretty much everyone we did stop so.
543
00:30:06,009 --> 00:30:08,600
- There was
definitely tension building.
544
00:30:08,600 --> 00:30:09,433
- Get a job!
545
00:30:11,590 --> 00:30:13,280
- I was worried
that climbing access
546
00:30:13,280 --> 00:30:16,090
could be taken away or restricted from us
547
00:30:16,090 --> 00:30:18,480
because in a lot of areas
across the United States
548
00:30:18,480 --> 00:30:21,620
people turn against
climbing and even ban it
549
00:30:21,620 --> 00:30:23,923
and this one is just to good to lose.
550
00:30:24,870 --> 00:30:27,880
- There was this moment
of, we need to connect
551
00:30:27,880 --> 00:30:30,000
before it explodes.
552
00:30:30,000 --> 00:30:32,890
So one day, I was at the Food Ranch
553
00:30:32,890 --> 00:30:36,413
and there was a sign saying city clean up.
554
00:30:37,380 --> 00:30:39,930
It was like perfect, let's
go to the city clean up.
555
00:30:41,850 --> 00:30:43,500
So we show up in the morning
556
00:30:43,500 --> 00:30:47,060
and it's a bunch of ladies preparing food.
557
00:30:47,060 --> 00:30:50,660
- We look over and there's these
558
00:30:50,660 --> 00:30:53,050
different people over there.
559
00:30:53,050 --> 00:30:55,180
They look a little bit like bums,
560
00:30:55,180 --> 00:30:57,570
you think well maybe they're homeless
561
00:30:57,570 --> 00:30:59,753
and then they got up
and walked over to us.
562
00:31:02,020 --> 00:31:04,180
- We're here for the clean
up, when does it start?
563
00:31:04,180 --> 00:31:06,650
And the four ladies like, oh
thank God we were just here
564
00:31:06,650 --> 00:31:08,450
thinking you needed food.
565
00:31:08,450 --> 00:31:12,510
- Oh my words, we were so
excited we said, are you serious?
566
00:31:12,510 --> 00:31:14,203
You're here to help us?
567
00:31:15,350 --> 00:31:20,350
We were just amazed that
outsiders would come in
568
00:31:20,400 --> 00:31:22,910
and give something to our community.
569
00:31:22,910 --> 00:31:25,476
- The classic part was, here
I am shoveling on Main Street,
570
00:31:25,476 --> 00:31:27,680
it's a Saturday, all my
friends from Salt Lake
571
00:31:27,680 --> 00:31:30,850
are coming to climb and they
see me and they're like,
572
00:31:30,850 --> 00:31:32,080
what did you get arrested in town?
573
00:31:32,080 --> 00:31:34,240
What are you doing shoveling the sidewalk?
574
00:31:34,240 --> 00:31:36,884
And I'm like, city clean
up day, I'm helping out.
575
00:31:36,884 --> 00:31:38,950
(truck engine passing by)
576
00:31:38,950 --> 00:31:40,840
- After that I
really started thinking
577
00:31:40,840 --> 00:31:43,340
about how climbers could
help Emery County grow
578
00:31:45,090 --> 00:31:46,790
because the reality was this area
579
00:31:46,790 --> 00:31:48,433
had fallen on pretty hard times.
580
00:31:49,760 --> 00:31:54,720
- In Emery County we've had
hay days and we've had slumps.
581
00:31:54,720 --> 00:31:59,083
Our major economic driver
has always been coal.
582
00:32:00,780 --> 00:32:05,430
40 years ago there was 20
something mines in Emery County,
583
00:32:05,430 --> 00:32:09,970
now we have three running mines
so it's not the job provider
584
00:32:09,970 --> 00:32:11,788
that it used to be.
585
00:32:11,788 --> 00:32:13,280
- Yeah the mines shutting down
586
00:32:13,280 --> 00:32:15,993
definitely has been a hardship.
587
00:32:16,929 --> 00:32:19,070
A lot of people had to move.
588
00:32:19,070 --> 00:32:21,230
- The power plants won't last forever
589
00:32:21,230 --> 00:32:23,340
so we need to figure out who we are
590
00:32:23,340 --> 00:32:26,840
and what we wanna become
in the next 20 years.
591
00:32:26,840 --> 00:32:28,700
- There's a lot of
concern that Emery County
592
00:32:28,700 --> 00:32:30,350
will become a ghost town someday.
593
00:32:31,840 --> 00:32:34,850
- This place was struggling,
they just didn't know
594
00:32:34,850 --> 00:32:37,844
they were sitting on
another great resource.
595
00:32:37,844 --> 00:32:39,547
- When the locals, like
when we walk around
596
00:32:39,547 --> 00:32:42,148
we see these lines of
stone and we're just like,
597
00:32:42,148 --> 00:32:44,073
oh my gosh, this is incredible.
598
00:32:44,073 --> 00:32:45,600
I was asked to give a presentation
599
00:32:45,600 --> 00:32:48,620
to the City Council about bouldering.
600
00:32:48,620 --> 00:32:53,010
People asked me, those things
on your back, what is it?
601
00:32:53,010 --> 00:32:55,396
One local thought you
climbed with it on your back
602
00:32:55,396 --> 00:32:58,573
and so when you fell you
just jumped onto your back.
603
00:33:00,170 --> 00:33:02,760
I put up a photo of a Sprinter
van and they all chuckled,
604
00:33:02,760 --> 00:33:04,870
oh yeah we see those all the time.
605
00:33:04,870 --> 00:33:07,640
The next photo is the inside
of the Sprinter remodeled
606
00:33:07,640 --> 00:33:10,070
and how much all this cost.
607
00:33:10,070 --> 00:33:14,250
Climbing shoes are a
$175, crash pads are $200.
608
00:33:14,250 --> 00:33:16,250
I was like, believe it or not these people
609
00:33:16,250 --> 00:33:19,700
living in the dirt, have
money and spend it right?
610
00:33:19,700 --> 00:33:23,097
- So then people were saying
that everyone's a millionaire
611
00:33:23,097 --> 00:33:25,000
who's a rock climber.
612
00:33:25,000 --> 00:33:27,370
I was like, these people are millionaires?
613
00:33:27,370 --> 00:33:30,500
I'm very confused as
to why they're out here
614
00:33:30,500 --> 00:33:31,920
in Emery County instead of traveling
615
00:33:31,920 --> 00:33:33,100
to like Paris and stuff.
616
00:33:33,100 --> 00:33:35,120
- We left town and came
back the next weekend
617
00:33:35,120 --> 00:33:38,260
and there's sign's saying
we love rock climbers.
618
00:33:38,260 --> 00:33:41,400
Food Ranch was the first
to catch on to the idea.
619
00:33:41,400 --> 00:33:42,520
Go in there and next thing you know
620
00:33:42,520 --> 00:33:46,053
there's chalk and crash pads.
621
00:33:47,160 --> 00:33:50,010
- This is the weirdest story
but there was an empty bottle
622
00:33:50,010 --> 00:33:51,760
next to the dumpster at Food Ranch.
623
00:33:52,600 --> 00:33:56,130
You opened the lid, smelled it, like phew.
624
00:33:56,130 --> 00:33:58,140
We kept thinking, what is this?
625
00:33:58,140 --> 00:33:59,357
We started talking to a climber
626
00:33:59,357 --> 00:34:02,793
and he explained all about
the probiotics and kombucha.
627
00:34:04,130 --> 00:34:06,610
They says if you carry it, we'll buy it.
628
00:34:06,610 --> 00:34:09,443
Started carrying it in every
flavor that you could imagine.
629
00:34:10,340 --> 00:34:13,350
- The big final connection
for rock climber to town
630
00:34:13,350 --> 00:34:16,320
was this idea of a festival.
631
00:34:16,320 --> 00:34:19,410
So it started out with me
and my girlfriend Adriana,
632
00:34:19,410 --> 00:34:22,150
we were talking with some locals about it.
633
00:34:22,150 --> 00:34:23,690
- The whole concept for the festival,
634
00:34:23,690 --> 00:34:26,250
it's about bringing the
two communities together,
635
00:34:26,250 --> 00:34:27,763
stepping outside your bubble.
636
00:34:29,370 --> 00:34:30,500
- Locals coming together
637
00:34:30,500 --> 00:34:33,430
with a bunch of crazy rock climbers.
638
00:34:33,430 --> 00:34:36,091
We weren't sure if it was gonna work out.
639
00:34:36,091 --> 00:34:38,275
- [Announcer] Hotdogs, get your hotdogs!
640
00:34:38,275 --> 00:34:41,026
Ketchup, mustard,
relish, get your fixen's.
641
00:34:41,026 --> 00:34:43,268
(crown talking)
642
00:34:43,268 --> 00:34:45,140
- We're gonna try to
get to know each other better.
643
00:34:45,140 --> 00:34:48,167
- These are the best
chili dogs I've ever ate.
644
00:34:49,440 --> 00:34:52,403
- Or even maybe learn
some stuff in the process.
645
00:34:53,690 --> 00:34:55,200
- All right everyone let's get ready,
646
00:34:55,200 --> 00:34:56,980
let's get our crash pads and
everything and let's head out
647
00:34:56,980 --> 00:34:58,587
to these boulders over here okay.
648
00:34:58,587 --> 00:35:00,400
(upbeat music)
649
00:35:00,400 --> 00:35:03,650
We had all kinds of
folks from town come out.
650
00:35:03,650 --> 00:35:06,563
People who'd never even
seen or worn climbing shoes,
651
00:35:07,980 --> 00:35:09,730
ascend their first boulder problem.
652
00:35:11,730 --> 00:35:14,330
- My name is Brooklynn
Potter, I'm Miss Emery County.
653
00:35:14,330 --> 00:35:17,220
This is so much fun, I'm having a ball,
654
00:35:17,220 --> 00:35:19,720
I've tried new shoes on, that's great.
655
00:35:19,720 --> 00:35:20,553
Oh my goodness.
656
00:35:24,439 --> 00:35:25,911
(group cheering)
657
00:35:25,911 --> 00:35:26,800
- You actually need to
move your hips this way.
658
00:35:26,800 --> 00:35:29,490
- The festival was my
first time rock climbing.
659
00:35:29,490 --> 00:35:31,860
I was terrified, I'm so scared of heights.
660
00:35:31,860 --> 00:35:33,720
- Retreat and then just
gonna take the fall.
661
00:35:33,720 --> 00:35:34,823
- It was daunting.
662
00:35:36,120 --> 00:35:38,039
- Once you step
up you'll feel a lot better.
663
00:35:38,039 --> 00:35:39,580
- Fudgy heck yeah.
664
00:35:39,580 --> 00:35:41,453
After that I was hooked.
665
00:35:42,380 --> 00:35:43,777
I got the bug bad (laughs).
666
00:35:46,193 --> 00:35:47,764
(crowd cheering)
667
00:35:47,764 --> 00:35:48,677
- Is this the line?
668
00:35:48,677 --> 00:35:49,540
- No, it's, jump right in.
669
00:35:49,540 --> 00:35:51,180
- Okay if you're gonna get a picture,
670
00:35:51,180 --> 00:35:52,430
you better friggin hurry.
671
00:35:53,371 --> 00:35:56,410
When I was their age, I would have got rid
672
00:35:56,410 --> 00:35:58,563
of all my fancy trucks and stuff.
673
00:36:01,790 --> 00:36:04,390
I coulda just come up here
with one of them pads.
674
00:36:04,390 --> 00:36:07,140
(crowd cheering)
675
00:36:07,990 --> 00:36:09,163
You guys have fun.
676
00:36:12,120 --> 00:36:15,580
- We never wanted it
to be just a climbing festival.
677
00:36:15,580 --> 00:36:17,760
We wanna show climbers
from all around the world
678
00:36:17,760 --> 00:36:19,840
the local culture and flavor around here.
679
00:36:19,840 --> 00:36:20,673
- Yeah!
680
00:36:21,640 --> 00:36:23,910
- So they can kinda
understand our way of life
681
00:36:23,910 --> 00:36:26,380
and why we love it so much here.
682
00:36:26,380 --> 00:36:29,898
- We started doin a clinic
on how to make jerky.
683
00:36:29,898 --> 00:36:31,530
And you just wanna, real light,
684
00:36:31,530 --> 00:36:33,490
pepper makes everything better.
685
00:36:33,490 --> 00:36:36,420
- The jerky was so good
last time that I'm back,
686
00:36:36,420 --> 00:36:38,377
even though I am a vegetarian.
687
00:36:39,570 --> 00:36:40,860
- I hope they keep coming back
688
00:36:40,860 --> 00:36:43,420
and look forward to
meeting a whole bunch more.
689
00:36:43,420 --> 00:36:45,340
(crowd laughing)
690
00:36:45,340 --> 00:36:47,680
- For the grand finale of the festival,
691
00:36:47,680 --> 00:36:49,573
we had something special in mind.
692
00:36:49,573 --> 00:36:51,480
(National anthem playing)
693
00:36:51,480 --> 00:36:53,410
- They said, we're gonna do a rodeo.
694
00:36:53,410 --> 00:36:54,710
- [Commentator] Showing
off their riding skills
695
00:36:54,710 --> 00:36:58,026
while the rock climbers compete
in a number of fun contests.
696
00:36:58,026 --> 00:37:01,943
(commentator speaking faintly)
697
00:37:04,480 --> 00:37:06,143
(crowd cheering)
698
00:37:06,143 --> 00:37:09,570
- The rock climbers getting on steers,
699
00:37:09,570 --> 00:37:11,580
oh this is such a bad idea.
700
00:37:11,580 --> 00:37:14,650
The first boulderer I seen do
it walked out in flip flops.
701
00:37:14,650 --> 00:37:16,500
- I'm wearing sandals this is unfair.
702
00:37:18,492 --> 00:37:20,081
- I thought, it's not gonna end well.
703
00:37:20,081 --> 00:37:22,473
- [Commentator] Let's get out
and let's make some noise--
704
00:37:22,473 --> 00:37:26,598
(commentator speaking
covered by crowd cheering)
705
00:37:26,598 --> 00:37:27,431
Oh!
706
00:37:27,431 --> 00:37:28,507
No points.
707
00:37:28,507 --> 00:37:31,283
- The locals, they
think these guys are nuts.
708
00:37:31,283 --> 00:37:35,433
(commentator speaking faintly)
709
00:37:35,433 --> 00:37:38,183
(crowd cheering)
710
00:37:40,137 --> 00:37:43,366
But it's one of the best events
of the bouldering festival.
711
00:37:43,366 --> 00:37:45,689
- [Commentator] Oh!
712
00:37:45,689 --> 00:37:47,161
(crowd cheering)
713
00:37:47,161 --> 00:37:49,266
He's hanging on, squeezing those brakes.
714
00:37:49,266 --> 00:37:52,016
(crowd cheering)
715
00:38:00,595 --> 00:38:03,780
- The minute he
opens his mouth he's lyin.
716
00:38:03,780 --> 00:38:06,800
- We're really glad to
have you guys in the county
717
00:38:06,800 --> 00:38:09,830
at least somebody wants to come here.
718
00:38:09,830 --> 00:38:12,230
- You guys all come from
anywhere you wanna come,
719
00:38:12,230 --> 00:38:14,041
we love bouldering.
720
00:38:14,041 --> 00:38:16,460
I hang on with these two fingers.
721
00:38:16,460 --> 00:38:17,570
- He fell off a boulder.
722
00:38:17,570 --> 00:38:18,967
- There's not a boulder I can't climb.
723
00:38:18,967 --> 00:38:21,680
- No, he fell off a boulder
and hurt his shoulder.
724
00:38:21,680 --> 00:38:22,800
- Hit his shoulder.
725
00:38:22,800 --> 00:38:23,873
- Would you shut up.
726
00:38:26,620 --> 00:38:29,643
- Now climbing is part of town.
727
00:38:30,865 --> 00:38:34,343
The climbers fit in,
they're welcomed in here.
728
00:38:35,290 --> 00:38:38,258
That change over, the acceptance
of the climbing culture,
729
00:38:38,258 --> 00:38:41,250
its cool man, like
there's a coffee shop now.
730
00:38:41,250 --> 00:38:45,870
- We grew up LDS Mormons
and coffee and tea,
731
00:38:45,870 --> 00:38:48,030
you don't drink 'em.
732
00:38:48,030 --> 00:38:49,660
People would ask us,
733
00:38:49,660 --> 00:38:51,470
do you know where we could
get a good cup of coffee?
734
00:38:51,470 --> 00:38:53,070
And we would always tell
them, you have to go to Price,
735
00:38:53,070 --> 00:38:55,460
which is 30 miles north.
736
00:38:55,460 --> 00:38:57,990
We transformed the front room of our house
737
00:38:57,990 --> 00:39:01,193
into a little coffee shop
for the climbers around here.
738
00:39:02,360 --> 00:39:03,880
They just keep coming back.
739
00:39:03,880 --> 00:39:06,470
- My favorite part is you become friends
740
00:39:06,470 --> 00:39:08,550
with people from all over the world.
741
00:39:08,550 --> 00:39:10,413
- I'm from Ecuador,
got amazing people here
742
00:39:10,413 --> 00:39:12,236
that is really friendly.
743
00:39:12,236 --> 00:39:14,503
- Hola, I'm from Buenos Aires, Argentina.
744
00:39:14,503 --> 00:39:15,610
- Valencia, Espana.
745
00:39:15,610 --> 00:39:17,830
- My name is Christer, I'm from Norway.
746
00:39:17,830 --> 00:39:18,840
- Marseille, France.
747
00:39:18,840 --> 00:39:20,670
We had a good coffee and--
748
00:39:20,670 --> 00:39:21,940
- Little tiny Orangeville,
749
00:39:21,940 --> 00:39:24,506
no name country town in
the middle of no where.
750
00:39:24,506 --> 00:39:26,340
Tens of thousands of people come here,
751
00:39:26,340 --> 00:39:28,440
we counted 71 countries.
752
00:39:28,440 --> 00:39:30,750
(upbeat music)
753
00:39:30,750 --> 00:39:33,350
- It's really nice to have
people from around the country
754
00:39:33,350 --> 00:39:36,810
and around the world bring that
diversity into our community
755
00:39:36,810 --> 00:39:38,093
with different ideas.
756
00:39:39,240 --> 00:39:43,319
The rock climbers have made
Emery County a better place.
757
00:39:43,319 --> 00:39:44,734
- You guys climbers?
758
00:39:44,734 --> 00:39:45,760
- [Cameraman] Yeah.
759
00:39:45,760 --> 00:39:49,610
- The people of our community,
they know that our future's
760
00:39:49,610 --> 00:39:51,850
in bouldering, our future's in tourism.
761
00:39:51,850 --> 00:39:53,770
- I think one of the great
things that's happened
762
00:39:53,770 --> 00:39:55,830
is that the local
commissioners have gotten
763
00:39:55,830 --> 00:39:57,450
huge wilderness designation,
764
00:39:57,450 --> 00:40:00,330
like basically the
entire San Rafael Swell.
765
00:40:00,330 --> 00:40:03,970
- The Emery County lands bill
protects a million plus acres
766
00:40:03,970 --> 00:40:06,950
for climbers and outdoor enthusiasts.
767
00:40:06,950 --> 00:40:09,830
- Right now our country is so divided
768
00:40:09,830 --> 00:40:12,880
and the outdoor recreation
is that point at which
769
00:40:12,880 --> 00:40:17,302
diverse people can agree on
things and work together on it.
770
00:40:17,302 --> 00:40:19,890
- [Interviewer] What about
Steven Jeffrey, he's--
771
00:40:19,890 --> 00:40:20,830
- Moved.
772
00:40:20,830 --> 00:40:22,723
Steven Jeffrey just moved there.
773
00:40:24,410 --> 00:40:27,400
- Adriana and I became
a part of this community
774
00:40:27,400 --> 00:40:31,510
through our festival and now we live here.
775
00:40:31,510 --> 00:40:35,150
- I love Orangeville and I
do not wanna leave, ever.
776
00:40:35,150 --> 00:40:36,970
- Even as a mayor of
Joe's Valley Bouldering now,
777
00:40:36,970 --> 00:40:39,520
I mean he's writing the
guidebook and he's a local.
778
00:40:40,980 --> 00:40:43,648
I mean he loves that place you know.
779
00:40:43,648 --> 00:40:48,648
♪ Oh lord I see what brings me here ♪
780
00:40:50,384 --> 00:40:54,801
♪ It's a mother to all my wandering ♪
781
00:40:56,120 --> 00:40:59,040
- When I first started
coming down here 25 years ago
782
00:40:59,040 --> 00:41:00,370
I was a scared little kid
783
00:41:00,370 --> 00:41:02,970
just looking for boulders to climb on.
784
00:41:02,970 --> 00:41:04,720
If anyone told me this is the place
785
00:41:04,720 --> 00:41:06,610
where I'd be settling down and livin,
786
00:41:06,610 --> 00:41:08,560
I would definitely think you were crazy
787
00:41:10,140 --> 00:41:13,100
but honestly I couldn't
find a better place on Earth
788
00:41:13,100 --> 00:41:14,311
than Joe's Valley.
789
00:41:14,311 --> 00:41:19,311
♪ And girls will come
in first in clothes ♪
790
00:41:20,361 --> 00:41:25,361
♪ And the boys will wait a gazing ♪
791
00:41:27,043 --> 00:41:32,043
♪ And birds will sing from tops of trees ♪
792
00:41:33,471 --> 00:41:37,388
♪ And sunlight, falling angels ♪
793
00:43:53,409 --> 00:43:55,866
When you're in the mountains on a big adventure
794
00:43:58,480 --> 00:44:00,378
it's an intense feeling
795
00:44:00,790 --> 00:44:03,958
to know that your safety and getting back down
796
00:44:04,270 --> 00:44:06,615
is completely reliant on yourself
797
00:44:15,069 --> 00:44:17,811
I mean, you just have to climb carefully
798
00:44:18,205 --> 00:44:20,634
Take it one step at a time
799
00:45:16,821 --> 00:45:18,821
The mountains are alive all around you
800
00:45:20,832 --> 00:45:22,579
and there's stuff that's beyond your control
801
00:45:27,215 --> 00:45:28,733
But one of the coolest feelings
802
00:45:28,740 --> 00:45:30,656
that a human can experience
803
00:45:30,671 --> 00:45:34,787
is to feel so small in a world that's so big
804
00:46:01,755 --> 00:46:06,031
Climbing for me is definitely about a lot more than just climbing
805
00:46:07,504 --> 00:46:11,418
It's more about the mental journey from beginning to end
806
00:46:11,967 --> 00:46:14,196
And everything that’s brought me to that point
807
00:46:18,195 --> 00:46:23,595
It's almost like my whole life’s leading me to a certain place
808
00:47:01,609 --> 00:47:04,109
(piano music)
809
00:47:17,520 --> 00:47:19,810
- [Alex] The Nose is
3000 feet of climbing,
810
00:47:19,810 --> 00:47:20,727
straight up the center of El Capitan.
811
00:47:20,727 --> 00:47:25,487
It's one of the most famous,
historic routes in the world.
812
00:47:27,177 --> 00:47:28,960
The speed record on the nose
813
00:47:28,960 --> 00:47:31,850
has always been a series competition.
814
00:47:31,850 --> 00:47:33,110
The different climbing heroes
815
00:47:33,110 --> 00:47:35,250
breaking the record back and forth.
816
00:47:35,250 --> 00:47:38,363
I mean, climbing El Cap really
quickly is pretty hardcore.
817
00:47:41,274 --> 00:47:42,772
- [Interviewer] Give me a brief history
818
00:47:42,772 --> 00:47:43,862
of speed climbing on The Nose.
819
00:47:43,862 --> 00:47:47,116
- A brief history of speed
climbing on The Nose.
820
00:47:47,116 --> 00:47:49,280
(hammer clanging)
821
00:47:49,280 --> 00:47:52,300
The Nose was first climbed
in 1958 by Warren Harding.
822
00:47:52,300 --> 00:47:54,180
It was the first rock climb of that scale
823
00:47:54,180 --> 00:47:56,930
that had ever been done
and it took 40 days.
824
00:47:56,930 --> 00:47:58,100
Since then people have been trying
825
00:47:58,100 --> 00:47:59,980
to climb it faster and faster.
826
00:47:59,980 --> 00:48:01,690
Royal Robbins did it in a week.
827
00:48:01,690 --> 00:48:03,400
- The second the center
of The Nose was a move
828
00:48:03,400 --> 00:48:04,780
on the Yosemite chess board,
829
00:48:04,780 --> 00:48:07,220
and who ever makes the
best moves is going to win.
830
00:48:07,220 --> 00:48:09,930
- [Alex] Each generation writes
its own history on The Nose.
831
00:48:09,930 --> 00:48:12,754
In the 80's, Peter Croft
started pushing it faster.
832
00:48:12,754 --> 00:48:14,240
(dramatic music)
833
00:48:14,240 --> 00:48:16,140
- If I can do that fast then I've got
834
00:48:16,140 --> 00:48:18,330
the whole afternoon free
to do something else.
835
00:48:18,330 --> 00:48:21,240
- [Alex] In the early 90's
Hans Florine entered the scene
836
00:48:21,240 --> 00:48:24,434
and basically ushered in the
modern era of speed climbing.
837
00:48:24,434 --> 00:48:26,190
(dramatic music)
838
00:48:26,190 --> 00:48:29,290
- Speed climbing The Nose
is the ultimate expression
839
00:48:29,290 --> 00:48:31,511
of how competent a climber you are.
840
00:48:31,511 --> 00:48:34,970
To race up this 3000 foot
wall in under three hours.
841
00:48:34,970 --> 00:48:36,466
You have to have the skills
842
00:48:36,466 --> 00:48:39,440
and endurance like a marathon runner.
843
00:48:39,440 --> 00:48:42,220
It is the most badass
competition there is.
844
00:48:42,220 --> 00:48:46,183
Fastest time up the most
incredible rock face in the world.
845
00:48:47,159 --> 00:48:49,200
I think this record will
last for a good long time.
846
00:48:49,200 --> 00:48:51,235
- [Alex] All these
incredibly talented climbers
847
00:48:51,235 --> 00:48:53,363
started to compete in that arena.
848
00:48:54,650 --> 00:48:56,863
Legendary figures like the Huber brothers.
849
00:48:58,140 --> 00:48:59,598
- And that should be
clipped to the bottom belt?
850
00:48:59,598 --> 00:49:00,431
- Yup.
851
00:49:00,431 --> 00:49:01,810
- [Alex] More women got
into the speed climbing game
852
00:49:01,810 --> 00:49:04,880
like Quinn Brett, Libby
Sauter, Mayan Smith-Gobat.
853
00:49:04,880 --> 00:49:08,255
- It's pretty risky, you
face some really big falls.
854
00:49:08,255 --> 00:49:11,310
(climbers chanting)
855
00:49:11,310 --> 00:49:13,780
- [Alex] Hans recruited Yuji Hirayama.
856
00:49:13,780 --> 00:49:16,388
- We're down to not just
minutes, but to seconds.
857
00:49:16,388 --> 00:49:18,400
(group cheering)
858
00:49:18,400 --> 00:49:19,770
- The record went back and forth.
859
00:49:19,770 --> 00:49:22,880
We wanna one up each other,
we wanna be number one.
860
00:49:22,880 --> 00:49:25,210
The whole strategy starts
to become more extreme.
861
00:49:25,210 --> 00:49:27,640
At the boot I run out the entire back,
862
00:49:27,640 --> 00:49:31,260
just hold the rope with my
hands as Sean swings across.
863
00:49:31,260 --> 00:49:33,780
Basically just less
protection, bigger risks.
864
00:49:33,780 --> 00:49:35,078
- Oh dear, don't fall.
865
00:49:35,078 --> 00:49:35,911
Okay.
866
00:49:35,911 --> 00:49:38,156
- It's coming close to a certain limit.
867
00:49:38,156 --> 00:49:39,080
(climber screaming)
868
00:49:39,080 --> 00:49:41,110
- Just a barely increase there.
869
00:49:41,110 --> 00:49:43,650
- [Alex] In 2012 Dean
Potter shaved a few seconds
870
00:49:43,650 --> 00:49:47,400
off the time and Hans had to
hitch his wagon to a new horse.
871
00:49:47,400 --> 00:49:49,030
- I'd been looking
around for somebody else
872
00:49:49,030 --> 00:49:53,569
I can team up with, I thought,
Alex Honnald soloed half-dome
873
00:49:53,569 --> 00:49:55,903
let's pull him into the mix.
874
00:49:55,903 --> 00:49:57,970
- [Alex] I mean, Hans did
literally write the book
875
00:49:57,970 --> 00:49:59,470
How To Speed Climb which I read
876
00:49:59,470 --> 00:50:00,880
and learned how to speed climb from
877
00:50:00,880 --> 00:50:03,330
so it was pretty exciting for me.
878
00:50:03,330 --> 00:50:05,465
I think the biggest take
away was how systematically
879
00:50:05,465 --> 00:50:08,120
he approached the entire experience.
880
00:50:08,120 --> 00:50:09,040
I was wondering about that.
881
00:50:09,040 --> 00:50:11,790
You had to memorize all
the moves, all the gear,
882
00:50:11,790 --> 00:50:13,080
you had to know what your partner's doing
883
00:50:13,080 --> 00:50:14,900
in the different places,
you had to figure out
884
00:50:14,900 --> 00:50:17,720
all these different ways
to refine things down
885
00:50:17,720 --> 00:50:19,243
as near to perfection as you can.
886
00:50:19,243 --> 00:50:21,175
(dramatic music)
887
00:50:21,175 --> 00:50:24,213
When you get to climb
that well, it's so fun.
888
00:50:25,290 --> 00:50:28,000
Hans and I set a new record of two, 23, 46
889
00:50:28,000 --> 00:50:29,960
and we were pretty
satisfied with ourselves.
890
00:50:29,960 --> 00:50:32,530
Then after five years these two guys,
891
00:50:32,530 --> 00:50:34,720
Brad Gobright and Jim Reynolds came along.
892
00:50:34,720 --> 00:50:37,100
- We're kind of the dirt bag monkeys.
893
00:50:37,100 --> 00:50:39,220
- [Alex] And they managed to break it.
894
00:50:39,220 --> 00:50:40,570
Which is pretty impressive.
895
00:50:41,770 --> 00:50:43,140
- When we topped out, you know I made
896
00:50:43,140 --> 00:50:47,330
a little Instagram post then
and I got a text from Alex
897
00:50:47,330 --> 00:50:50,020
literally less than a minute
after I'd made the post,
898
00:50:50,020 --> 00:50:51,770
like hey, congrats you know.
899
00:50:51,770 --> 00:50:53,513
A quick little, like hey, good job guys,
900
00:50:53,513 --> 00:50:55,280
all right, I'm calling Tommy.
901
00:50:55,280 --> 00:50:57,100
(both laughing)
902
00:50:57,100 --> 00:51:00,190
- In the past, you know the
players, like the Hubers,
903
00:51:00,190 --> 00:51:03,650
frickin the Hans Florine,
Yuji Hirayama, these are pros,
904
00:51:03,650 --> 00:51:05,650
these are like the best
climbers in the world.
905
00:51:05,650 --> 00:51:08,810
And then Brad and Jim, the dark horses,
906
00:51:08,810 --> 00:51:11,737
I did not see that one coming
that's for sure (laughs).
907
00:51:12,966 --> 00:51:14,460
(Jim laughing)
908
00:51:14,460 --> 00:51:17,700
I barely knew who they were,
they just came outta nowhere
909
00:51:17,700 --> 00:51:19,370
and broke The Nose speed record.
910
00:51:19,370 --> 00:51:20,770
- [Interviewer] How many
interviews have you done
911
00:51:20,770 --> 00:51:22,700
on camera before today?
912
00:51:22,700 --> 00:51:25,340
- Probably none, I've done no interviews
913
00:51:25,340 --> 00:51:26,640
on camera before (laughs).
914
00:51:27,620 --> 00:51:30,350
- See my vocabulary sucks so
I'm always like, I start talkin
915
00:51:30,350 --> 00:51:33,130
and I'm like what the fuck am I saying?
916
00:51:33,130 --> 00:51:34,910
What am I trying to say?
917
00:51:34,910 --> 00:51:36,993
- [Tommy] They seem kind of goofy and fun.
918
00:51:36,993 --> 00:51:41,780
- Look at this, crispy, the pet squirrel.
919
00:51:41,780 --> 00:51:43,660
- They live kind of like derelicts.
920
00:51:43,660 --> 00:51:46,110
- All right, yeah,
welcome to the place guys,
921
00:51:46,110 --> 00:51:48,910
step through the gate, watch
your head on the skeleton.
922
00:51:48,910 --> 00:51:52,110
We got our stick walls, to give
us a little bit of privacy.
923
00:51:52,110 --> 00:51:53,830
Do you wanna come inside?
924
00:51:53,830 --> 00:51:56,740
We've got basic supplies,
the climbing gear,
925
00:51:56,740 --> 00:51:58,720
the cam shackles, the Beargrease.
926
00:51:58,720 --> 00:52:00,850
This is the finger board, it's good
927
00:52:00,850 --> 00:52:03,040
'cause it's got big holds.
928
00:52:03,040 --> 00:52:04,670
These are the ones I grab onto.
929
00:52:04,670 --> 00:52:06,313
We've got this nice
collage of all my friends
930
00:52:06,313 --> 00:52:08,630
I don't think I actually
know any of those people
931
00:52:08,630 --> 00:52:11,240
but it's a nice collage.
932
00:52:11,240 --> 00:52:13,480
Dean Potter shows us the way.
933
00:52:13,480 --> 00:52:15,630
We follow in Deans footsteps.
934
00:52:15,630 --> 00:52:18,804
This is where we keep
the katana, right here.
935
00:52:18,804 --> 00:52:23,700
This is, been in my family
for at least a generation
936
00:52:23,700 --> 00:52:26,470
which I guess means, my
brother gave it to me
937
00:52:26,470 --> 00:52:30,625
and yeah that's what we
use to combat all evil.
938
00:52:30,625 --> 00:52:31,970
- [Interviewer] What kind
of music do you listen too?
939
00:52:31,970 --> 00:52:35,670
- Mainly death metal, yup,
the heavier, the faster,
940
00:52:35,670 --> 00:52:38,227
gets me stoked, makes me
feel like life is epic
941
00:52:38,227 --> 00:52:40,170
'cause life is epic.
942
00:52:40,170 --> 00:52:44,321
Got the heavy drums, the shreddin guitar,
943
00:52:44,321 --> 00:52:47,321
(heavy metal music)
944
00:52:54,150 --> 00:52:57,008
that's what you need, that's
what you need right there.
945
00:52:57,008 --> 00:53:00,008
(heavy metal music)
946
00:53:04,870 --> 00:53:06,680
Welcome to the circle of power,
947
00:53:06,680 --> 00:53:11,110
this is where we come to
focus our chi, not really,
948
00:53:11,110 --> 00:53:13,150
don't know any martial arts necessarily
949
00:53:13,150 --> 00:53:15,690
but know we're trying to get all centered
950
00:53:15,690 --> 00:53:16,901
and ready for The Nose.
951
00:53:16,901 --> 00:53:20,440
(heavy metal music)
952
00:53:20,440 --> 00:53:23,040
- Jim and I put in a lot
of work, just that season,
953
00:53:23,040 --> 00:53:25,370
we climbed it 11 times.
954
00:53:25,370 --> 00:53:27,870
Trying to perfect that strategy just right
955
00:53:27,870 --> 00:53:31,220
to where we could shave
off just a few minutes.
956
00:53:31,220 --> 00:53:33,723
Go by go we were running
it out a little more,
957
00:53:33,723 --> 00:53:35,750
error back was getting
thinner and thinner.
958
00:53:35,750 --> 00:53:37,860
For my half I made it
to the top of Boots Leg
959
00:53:37,860 --> 00:53:41,810
which is 1500 feet up and
I only placed three cams
960
00:53:41,810 --> 00:53:43,550
in that entire time.
961
00:53:43,550 --> 00:53:45,780
- [Interviewer] How safe was your ascent?
962
00:53:45,780 --> 00:53:48,920
- To say it's safe would be total lie,
963
00:53:48,920 --> 00:53:50,483
I mean it's not that safe.
964
00:53:52,841 --> 00:53:54,200
It's like it is definitely dangerous
965
00:53:54,200 --> 00:53:59,200
but we would try to make
it as reckless as possible.
966
00:54:02,020 --> 00:54:03,120
Let me redo that.
967
00:54:03,120 --> 00:54:08,120
It's like, The Nose record
is absolutely dangerous,
968
00:54:08,170 --> 00:54:11,870
there's no getting
around that but the goal
969
00:54:11,870 --> 00:54:15,447
is to try to make it just--
970
00:54:19,050 --> 00:54:21,170
God damn it I can't speak.
971
00:54:21,170 --> 00:54:22,370
What am I trying to say?
972
00:54:24,432 --> 00:54:26,523
The least amount of recklessness, yeah.
973
00:54:27,570 --> 00:54:28,403
Holy shit.
974
00:54:28,403 --> 00:54:29,750
On the record go, like a dumbass,
975
00:54:29,750 --> 00:54:31,640
I just forgot to drink water,
976
00:54:31,640 --> 00:54:33,900
I was like holy crap man I'm thirsty.
977
00:54:33,900 --> 00:54:36,110
I got up to the Dolt Tower
and there's a party up there
978
00:54:36,110 --> 00:54:38,800
and I was like, can I have some water?
979
00:54:38,800 --> 00:54:40,117
- [Austin] Need coffee or anything?
980
00:54:40,117 --> 00:54:41,990
- No, do you have any water up there?
981
00:54:41,990 --> 00:54:43,110
- [Austin] Yeah lots.
982
00:54:43,110 --> 00:54:44,630
- [Brad] I was breathing super heavy
983
00:54:44,630 --> 00:54:46,443
and I'm trying to drink and I choked.
984
00:54:48,750 --> 00:54:51,031
- Just like coughed
into their water bottle
985
00:54:51,031 --> 00:54:52,681
and gave it back (laughs).
986
00:54:52,681 --> 00:54:53,589
- I'm like, thank you.
987
00:54:53,589 --> 00:54:55,197
(Jim laughing)
988
00:54:55,197 --> 00:54:56,200
- The less you have, the better,
989
00:54:56,200 --> 00:54:58,820
because if you have nothing
on you then you're light
990
00:54:58,820 --> 00:55:01,390
and free and you can climb really fast,
991
00:55:01,390 --> 00:55:03,470
just like being a runner you know,
992
00:55:03,470 --> 00:55:05,810
they got those little tiny
shorts that they run with.
993
00:55:05,810 --> 00:55:08,360
Yeah I would go up there and I
wouldn't wanna wear underwear
994
00:55:08,360 --> 00:55:10,510
'cause it'd weigh me
down to much (laughs).
995
00:55:12,190 --> 00:55:14,120
The closer we're getting to the record
996
00:55:14,120 --> 00:55:16,400
maybe we're pushing that
boundary between dangerous
997
00:55:16,400 --> 00:55:18,443
and reckless just a little bit more.
998
00:55:19,600 --> 00:55:22,460
You're starting to wonder,
can we just take a little bit
999
00:55:22,460 --> 00:55:25,070
more risk and get it finished so that
1000
00:55:25,070 --> 00:55:28,999
we don't have to come back
and take all that risk again?
1001
00:55:28,999 --> 00:55:31,950
(dramatic music)
1002
00:55:31,950 --> 00:55:34,780
- [Brad] Part of the strategy
is that I need to be right on
1003
00:55:34,780 --> 00:55:38,510
Jim's ass for that last pitch
'cause the time doesn't stop
1004
00:55:38,510 --> 00:55:39,970
until I touch the tree.
1005
00:55:39,970 --> 00:55:43,023
Yeah, I'm giving it everything I got.
1006
00:55:43,940 --> 00:55:46,000
I'm just sticking my
fingers through the hangers,
1007
00:55:46,000 --> 00:55:48,140
I'm not clipping them with carabiners.
1008
00:55:48,140 --> 00:55:49,880
- I heard that at the top Brad
was literally just holding on
1009
00:55:49,880 --> 00:55:52,720
with his fingers to the
bolts and just plowing across
1010
00:55:52,720 --> 00:55:54,870
and they had an entire 60
meter rope hanging between them
1011
00:55:54,870 --> 00:55:57,010
but with nothing clipped
and you're like what?
1012
00:55:57,010 --> 00:55:59,264
Like what are you guys doing?
1013
00:55:59,264 --> 00:56:01,030
- This one final bolt that I clipped
1014
00:56:01,030 --> 00:56:03,180
just so that we're clipped into something
1015
00:56:03,180 --> 00:56:05,260
but this time I'm like
we're gonna break the record
1016
00:56:05,260 --> 00:56:06,790
there's no time for anything.
1017
00:56:06,790 --> 00:56:09,857
So I skip it and it's a
little Dean Potter quote,
1018
00:56:09,857 --> 00:56:11,937
"No gear, no falls".
1019
00:56:11,937 --> 00:56:13,437
"No gear, no falls".
1020
00:56:14,520 --> 00:56:16,680
Brad's down there just like monoing
1021
00:56:16,680 --> 00:56:17,960
through the bolt hangers.
1022
00:56:17,960 --> 00:56:19,630
- I was like, what does he mean?
1023
00:56:19,630 --> 00:56:20,463
Like there's no gear?
1024
00:56:20,463 --> 00:56:21,296
What?
1025
00:56:21,296 --> 00:56:23,340
I remember pulling over to this one lip
1026
00:56:23,340 --> 00:56:25,060
and I was like, yeah he's not joking,
1027
00:56:25,060 --> 00:56:27,096
there's no gear between us.
1028
00:56:27,096 --> 00:56:30,096
(heavy metal music)
1029
00:56:34,870 --> 00:56:36,439
- Yeah man, come on!
1030
00:56:36,439 --> 00:56:38,218
We got this!
1031
00:56:38,218 --> 00:56:39,301
Come on Brad!
1032
00:56:40,217 --> 00:56:41,482
Come on!
1033
00:56:41,482 --> 00:56:43,140
Yeah man!
1034
00:56:43,140 --> 00:56:43,973
- Cool.
1035
00:56:45,080 --> 00:56:48,120
- Oh my God, we did it
(Brads speech muffled by Jim)
1036
00:56:48,120 --> 00:56:51,240
- When Brad and Jim took Alex's record,
1037
00:56:51,240 --> 00:56:53,430
Alex started talking about recruiting me.
1038
00:56:53,430 --> 00:56:56,640
- There aren't that many
potential partners out there
1039
00:56:56,640 --> 00:56:57,810
for speed climbing The Nose,
1040
00:56:57,810 --> 00:56:58,780
there's just not that many people
1041
00:56:58,780 --> 00:57:01,593
who can physically climb
3000 feet really fast.
1042
00:57:02,970 --> 00:57:04,940
To me the most obvious
choice is Tommy Caldwell.
1043
00:57:04,940 --> 00:57:06,240
He's a really good trad climber,
1044
00:57:06,240 --> 00:57:07,710
he's a really good granite climber,
1045
00:57:07,710 --> 00:57:09,090
I mean my shoes are named after him
1046
00:57:09,090 --> 00:57:11,060
so that's always a good sign.
1047
00:57:11,060 --> 00:57:14,840
- Alex is the best climber for
that style of rock climbing
1048
00:57:14,840 --> 00:57:17,460
and so when two monkeys
crawl outta the boulders
1049
00:57:17,460 --> 00:57:21,730
and take his record, he's gotta
team up with the other Titan
1050
00:57:21,730 --> 00:57:25,120
of Yosemite rock climbing
and show us how it's done
1051
00:57:25,120 --> 00:57:26,600
but we'll see.
1052
00:57:26,600 --> 00:57:27,433
- We'll see.
1053
00:57:27,433 --> 00:57:28,266
(Jim laughs)
1054
00:57:28,266 --> 00:57:29,099
- Yeah, we'll see.
1055
00:57:30,543 --> 00:57:33,471
- You know there's a video clip
of Brad and Jim climbing it.
1056
00:57:33,471 --> 00:57:34,753
- Brad Gobright--
1057
00:57:34,753 --> 00:57:37,547
- When two aspiring amateurs
dis you on the tally pull.
1058
00:57:37,547 --> 00:57:40,193
- It was 2, 19, 44, I
thought it was 2, 17, 44.
1059
00:57:40,193 --> 00:57:41,469
- Oh yeah now it seems pretty obtainable.
1060
00:57:41,469 --> 00:57:42,469
- Yeah.
1061
00:57:42,469 --> 00:57:44,260
- Oh well, 2,19.
1062
00:57:44,260 --> 00:57:46,385
Whoa, look how far he's
swinging for the King Swing.
1063
00:57:46,385 --> 00:57:48,062
(Tommy laughs)
1064
00:57:48,062 --> 00:57:49,930
Look how much jumping he's
doing, that can't be the way
1065
00:57:49,930 --> 00:57:51,580
he actually did it, that's crazy.
1066
00:57:52,674 --> 00:57:54,960
What a (speech muffled
from food in Jims mouth)
1067
00:57:54,960 --> 00:57:58,492
and his rope is just
flossing across the ledge.
1068
00:57:58,492 --> 00:57:59,990
- I like critiquing
somebodies else's climbing
1069
00:57:59,990 --> 00:58:01,243
while you sit and eat chips.
1070
00:58:01,243 --> 00:58:02,400
(Tommy laughs)
1071
00:58:02,400 --> 00:58:05,110
(chip crunching)
1072
00:58:05,110 --> 00:58:06,530
I mean not to throw them under the bus
1073
00:58:06,530 --> 00:58:07,920
but when you watch the time lapse
1074
00:58:07,920 --> 00:58:10,970
of the two of them climbing
The Nose in a couple minutes.
1075
00:58:10,970 --> 00:58:14,178
I mean, it looks sketchy.
1076
00:58:14,178 --> 00:58:15,640
- Oh man, he's really close.
1077
00:58:15,640 --> 00:58:17,272
- Yeah, he's so close and I'm sure
1078
00:58:17,272 --> 00:58:18,970
they don't have any gear clipped.
1079
00:58:18,970 --> 00:58:21,090
I mean Brad's like 15 feet behind him.
1080
00:58:21,090 --> 00:58:21,923
- Yeah.
1081
00:58:21,923 --> 00:58:23,724
- I mean Brad could pass him
right there if he wanted too.
1082
00:58:23,724 --> 00:58:24,790
(Tommy laughs)
1083
00:58:24,790 --> 00:58:25,623
Brad should have played through,
1084
00:58:25,623 --> 00:58:27,660
I mean they have the
whole 60 meter rope out
1085
00:58:27,660 --> 00:58:28,900
with nothing clipped,
1086
00:58:28,900 --> 00:58:32,728
it's just not the way we're gonna do it.
1087
00:58:32,728 --> 00:58:35,100
- No (laughs).
1088
00:58:35,100 --> 00:58:36,090
- That's crazy.
1089
00:58:36,090 --> 00:58:37,615
- Alex had told me a
couple times, he's like
1090
00:58:37,615 --> 00:58:41,560
dude you guys are sketch up
there, that seems really sketchy
1091
00:58:41,560 --> 00:58:43,950
and I was like, yeah it's sketchy
1092
00:58:43,950 --> 00:58:46,413
but that's why I've got
the record and you don't.
1093
00:58:52,353 --> 00:58:56,450
- The Nose speed record is one
of the big games in climbing.
1094
00:58:56,450 --> 00:58:58,300
I mean I've always been curious
1095
00:58:58,300 --> 00:59:01,990
but yeah I always thought speed
climbing was kinda dangerous
1096
00:59:01,990 --> 00:59:06,773
and I've never been the danger
guy but climbing with Alex,
1097
00:59:06,773 --> 00:59:08,880
it's just so fun.
1098
00:59:08,880 --> 00:59:11,340
Pretty much any time Alex
says let's go do something
1099
00:59:11,340 --> 00:59:13,000
I'm gonna say yes.
1100
00:59:13,000 --> 00:59:15,063
He's my bad influence friend, absolutely.
1101
00:59:16,060 --> 00:59:16,893
- How are you guys?
1102
00:59:16,893 --> 00:59:17,939
How's the fam been?
1103
00:59:17,939 --> 00:59:20,810
- Good, good, yeah the
fam's so good these days.
1104
00:59:20,810 --> 00:59:22,140
They don't like it when I leave,
1105
00:59:22,140 --> 00:59:24,930
that part sucks but everything else is--
1106
00:59:24,930 --> 00:59:27,450
- It's a good thing you're
only gone for a month huh?
1107
00:59:27,450 --> 00:59:28,947
- Oh my gosh, are you gone for a month?
1108
00:59:28,947 --> 00:59:30,700
- Well they're gonna come and hang.
1109
00:59:30,700 --> 00:59:31,533
- Oh okay.
1110
00:59:34,018 --> 00:59:36,050
- [Tommy] Wow, I get like shakey excited
1111
00:59:36,050 --> 00:59:37,890
every time I come here still.
1112
00:59:37,890 --> 00:59:39,680
Still happens, it's pretty rad.
1113
00:59:39,680 --> 00:59:41,700
- [Alex] It's pretty exciting.
1114
00:59:41,700 --> 00:59:45,970
- [Tommy] The last couple
years, my life is so different,
1115
00:59:45,970 --> 00:59:50,233
I've got two kids now, the
Dawn Wall movie's coming out,
1116
00:59:51,100 --> 00:59:53,320
I wrote a book and I've been flying
1117
00:59:53,320 --> 00:59:55,430
all over the place doing events.
1118
00:59:55,430 --> 00:59:56,800
I just haven't been able to get out
1119
00:59:56,800 --> 01:00:00,903
and have these adventures
but I crave it to my core.
1120
01:00:02,490 --> 01:00:06,280
The whole game of racing the
clock was totally new to me
1121
01:00:06,280 --> 01:00:09,153
but I wanted to at least
see what it was like.
1122
01:00:10,382 --> 01:00:11,992
- [Austin] Who's wearing a helmet?
1123
01:00:11,992 --> 01:00:14,492
- I'm wearing a helmet,
first time for everything.
1124
01:00:17,690 --> 01:00:19,473
- [Tommy] Wow you look weird in a helmet.
1125
01:00:20,960 --> 01:00:23,270
- Okay I started our timer so,
1126
01:00:23,270 --> 01:00:26,332
we need just a few tons of
slack, don't worry about it.
1127
01:00:26,332 --> 01:00:28,860
(dramatic music)
1128
01:00:28,860 --> 01:00:31,140
Okay, I've actually got a piece in.
1129
01:00:31,140 --> 01:00:32,840
Normally when you're climbing
1130
01:00:32,840 --> 01:00:35,665
your partner is holding the
rope and they're belaying you.
1131
01:00:35,665 --> 01:00:38,750
(Tommy whistles)
1132
01:00:38,750 --> 01:00:40,680
You stop, and you then you
belay them up, you know,
1133
01:00:40,680 --> 01:00:42,368
one and then the other and then the other.
1134
01:00:42,368 --> 01:00:44,590
- Okay I'm climbing Alex.
1135
01:00:44,590 --> 01:00:47,790
- If you wanna go faster,
you can simul-climb,
1136
01:00:47,790 --> 01:00:49,590
where you both climb simultaneously.
1137
01:00:51,120 --> 01:00:52,790
When you're simul-climbing
1138
01:00:52,790 --> 01:00:55,040
you definitely need a
partner that you trust.
1139
01:00:57,560 --> 01:00:59,190
Your partner should have a loop of slack
1140
01:00:59,190 --> 01:01:01,630
out in front of them so
that you have some freedom
1141
01:01:01,630 --> 01:01:04,300
of movement as you climb and
then they also have to manage
1142
01:01:04,300 --> 01:01:06,970
all the extra slack
hanging down below them.
1143
01:01:06,970 --> 01:01:09,410
As the leader, you're placing
gear wherever you want
1144
01:01:09,410 --> 01:01:11,790
but if you fall off, you
know that your partner
1145
01:01:11,790 --> 01:01:13,010
is gonna catch you but you don't know
1146
01:01:13,010 --> 01:01:14,640
if there's like a 10
foot loop of slack out
1147
01:01:14,640 --> 01:01:15,990
or a 20 foot loop of slack.
1148
01:01:17,880 --> 01:01:22,388
Basically it's hard to know
what'll happen if you fall off.
1149
01:01:22,388 --> 01:01:25,138
(dramatic music)
1150
01:01:26,590 --> 01:01:27,740
So Tommy?
1151
01:01:27,740 --> 01:01:29,210
- Yeah?
1152
01:01:29,210 --> 01:01:31,150
- You can go a little slower Tommy
1153
01:01:31,150 --> 01:01:33,670
'cause there's only really the two anchors
1154
01:01:33,670 --> 01:01:34,750
clipped between us.
1155
01:01:34,750 --> 01:01:37,430
- Oh yeah, okay, just don't fall, got it.
1156
01:01:37,430 --> 01:01:39,920
- When you speed climb
The Nose, anything goes.
1157
01:01:39,920 --> 01:01:43,470
Any combination of free
climbing, aid climbing,
1158
01:01:43,470 --> 01:01:46,170
cheating, you're stepping on bolts,
1159
01:01:46,170 --> 01:01:48,153
you're pulling on gear if you need too.
1160
01:01:49,470 --> 01:01:50,443
Total free for all.
1161
01:01:51,880 --> 01:01:53,700
There's are always
weird logistical snaffus
1162
01:01:53,700 --> 01:01:56,652
or like things happen and you
just have to deal with them.
1163
01:01:56,652 --> 01:01:59,402
(dramatic music)
1164
01:02:03,587 --> 01:02:04,802
- [Austin] How you doin?
1165
01:02:04,802 --> 01:02:06,353
- Pretty good, yeah,
1166
01:02:07,339 --> 01:02:09,390
been crash coursed back
into the world of granite.
1167
01:02:09,390 --> 01:02:10,510
- [Alex] I'm gonna start
going up the bolt ladder
1168
01:02:10,510 --> 01:02:13,700
and then the aid climbing
so I'll be a little slower
1169
01:02:13,700 --> 01:02:15,160
and you can kinda keep me a little tighter
1170
01:02:15,160 --> 01:02:16,453
through this part, okay?
1171
01:02:17,402 --> 01:02:18,902
- I got you tight.
1172
01:02:19,800 --> 01:02:22,020
- [Alex] Okay, I'm on the boot.
1173
01:02:22,020 --> 01:02:23,220
I'll just put you on belay
1174
01:02:23,220 --> 01:02:25,913
and you should just climb
this part casual style.
1175
01:02:25,913 --> 01:02:27,813
(dramatic music)
1176
01:02:27,813 --> 01:02:29,860
- Oh my God, dude Quinn fell so far.
1177
01:02:29,860 --> 01:02:31,450
- [Alex] Dude.
1178
01:02:31,450 --> 01:02:32,283
- Jesus.
1179
01:02:32,283 --> 01:02:33,800
- [Alex] I know and as
you climb this think about
1180
01:02:33,800 --> 01:02:38,244
how weirdly slippery
and kinda weird it is.
1181
01:02:38,244 --> 01:02:40,270
(dramatic music)
1182
01:02:40,270 --> 01:02:42,247
- Yeah it is kinda slick rock huh.
1183
01:02:47,350 --> 01:02:49,330
- The main thing with
speed climbing The Nose
1184
01:02:49,330 --> 01:02:52,030
is that you shouldn't fall off, ever,
1185
01:02:52,030 --> 01:02:57,030
but it's hard to fall off, it's 5.10
1186
01:02:57,130 --> 01:02:58,810
you never have to do any hard moves
1187
01:02:58,810 --> 01:03:00,450
because you're cheating
as much as you can,
1188
01:03:00,450 --> 01:03:02,240
you're pulling on draws,
you're stepping on bolts,
1189
01:03:02,240 --> 01:03:03,810
it feels pretty comfortable.
1190
01:03:03,810 --> 01:03:05,860
- I think sometimes Alex is just so,
1191
01:03:05,860 --> 01:03:09,760
he is so confident in
himself that he tends to just
1192
01:03:11,030 --> 01:03:13,247
think that other people
are as solid as he is
1193
01:03:13,247 --> 01:03:15,353
but it's not the case.
1194
01:03:17,600 --> 01:03:21,830
Our first run, I lead the last 500 feet.
1195
01:03:21,830 --> 01:03:24,130
I was climbing along and I got
to a place where I was like
1196
01:03:24,130 --> 01:03:27,373
oh it's a little bit harder
here, didn't realize it was wet.
1197
01:03:30,547 --> 01:03:31,380
Falling!
1198
01:03:33,712 --> 01:03:35,093
- [Alex] Whoa, are you okay?
1199
01:03:35,093 --> 01:03:37,520
- [Tommy] I just slipped
out of a wet crack.
1200
01:03:37,520 --> 01:03:39,150
I had a piece of gear right at my feet
1201
01:03:39,150 --> 01:03:43,012
and it felt like 50 or 60 feet.
1202
01:03:43,012 --> 01:03:43,845
Falling!
1203
01:03:45,775 --> 01:03:48,160
Wow I slipped out the wet crack.
1204
01:03:48,160 --> 01:03:49,250
- [Alex] Whoa are you okay?
1205
01:03:49,250 --> 01:03:50,350
- Yeah yeah, I'm fine.
1206
01:03:51,360 --> 01:03:52,390
- [Alex] Whoa jeez.
1207
01:03:52,390 --> 01:03:53,400
- [Tommy] What's that?
1208
01:03:53,400 --> 01:03:54,660
- [Alex] I said oh jeez.
1209
01:03:54,660 --> 01:03:56,800
- I just put in a piece luckily.
1210
01:03:56,800 --> 01:03:58,340
- [Alex] Oh yeah, sweet.
1211
01:03:58,340 --> 01:03:59,570
- Yeah sorry about that.
1212
01:03:59,570 --> 01:04:01,189
- [Alex] No no, that's--
1213
01:04:01,189 --> 01:04:02,853
Sorry I had you kinda loose.
1214
01:04:04,710 --> 01:04:06,970
- Okay Alex, can you pull it tight here?
1215
01:04:06,970 --> 01:04:08,570
- [Alex] Okay, I got you good.
1216
01:04:08,570 --> 01:04:09,630
- Thank you.
1217
01:04:09,630 --> 01:04:10,630
- [Alex] Nice Tommy.
1218
01:04:12,336 --> 01:04:14,480
- [Tommy] We climbed it
in four and a half hours.
1219
01:04:14,480 --> 01:04:15,649
- [Alex] Okay.
1220
01:04:15,649 --> 01:04:16,850
- [Tommy] It was kinda
mind blowing for me.
1221
01:04:16,850 --> 01:04:17,683
That was fun though man.
1222
01:04:17,683 --> 01:04:19,457
- Yeah that was really good.
1223
01:04:19,457 --> 01:04:22,350
- It's gonna be a good workout.
1224
01:04:22,350 --> 01:04:23,183
- [Alex] Yeah so are we thinking
1225
01:04:23,183 --> 01:04:24,016
we'll climb The Nose again tomorrow?
1226
01:04:24,016 --> 01:04:26,220
- I feel pretty good right
now, I feel like we could.
1227
01:04:26,220 --> 01:04:27,580
- I'm down if you're down.
1228
01:04:27,580 --> 01:04:30,820
Tommy, he was surprisingly
enthusiastic about it.
1229
01:04:30,820 --> 01:04:32,490
Speed climbing kinda suits
his schedule right now,
1230
01:04:32,490 --> 01:04:34,492
I mean honestly he's in
the middle of a book tour.
1231
01:04:34,492 --> 01:04:36,900
- I was surprised, I feel shockingly--
1232
01:04:36,900 --> 01:04:37,733
- Good?
1233
01:04:37,733 --> 01:04:38,566
- Right, yeah.
1234
01:04:38,566 --> 01:04:39,399
- [Alex] It's definitely a good way
1235
01:04:39,399 --> 01:04:40,232
to maximize the amount of climbing you do
1236
01:04:40,232 --> 01:04:41,330
in a short amount of time.
1237
01:04:41,330 --> 01:04:42,865
- Hey Tommy, say hi.
1238
01:04:42,865 --> 01:04:44,298
- Hey, how you guys doin?
1239
01:04:44,298 --> 01:04:45,470
- Are you climbing today?
1240
01:04:45,470 --> 01:04:47,690
- Yeah we climbed El Cap already today.
1241
01:04:47,690 --> 01:04:48,880
- Oh nice.
1242
01:04:48,880 --> 01:04:49,910
- Which route did you climb?
1243
01:04:49,910 --> 01:04:50,899
- The Nose.
1244
01:04:50,899 --> 01:04:51,732
- Oh nice.
1245
01:04:52,870 --> 01:04:54,190
Awesome.
1246
01:04:54,190 --> 01:04:55,660
- Yup, just a little fitness lap.
1247
01:04:55,660 --> 01:04:57,143
- I've got Alex's already.
1248
01:04:57,143 --> 01:04:57,976
- Oh yeah?
1249
01:04:57,976 --> 01:04:59,967
- Reel Rock L.A.
1250
01:04:59,967 --> 01:05:00,800
- [Tommy] Nice.
1251
01:05:00,800 --> 01:05:01,953
- [Male Fan] I totally understand man.
1252
01:05:01,953 --> 01:05:04,200
- Are you guys getting on
something this afternoon?
1253
01:05:04,200 --> 01:05:05,950
- No, I'm getting in my bed.
1254
01:05:05,950 --> 01:05:08,133
- Oh, okay, thanks.
1255
01:05:09,030 --> 01:05:11,250
- [Interviewer] Tommy took
a 50 foot whipper today.
1256
01:05:11,250 --> 01:05:12,117
- Did he really?
1257
01:05:12,117 --> 01:05:13,303
Are you serious?
1258
01:05:14,268 --> 01:05:15,570
Fuck.
1259
01:05:15,570 --> 01:05:17,103
He took a 50 foot whipper?
1260
01:05:18,117 --> 01:05:19,340
Did you film it?
1261
01:05:19,340 --> 01:05:20,450
You got it on film?
1262
01:05:20,450 --> 01:05:22,380
Oh yeah.
1263
01:05:22,380 --> 01:05:23,493
Money shot.
1264
01:05:25,540 --> 01:05:28,620
Well there you go, even
if you're a 5.15 climber
1265
01:05:28,620 --> 01:05:30,863
the 5.10 cracks can still get you
1266
01:05:30,863 --> 01:05:32,330
when you're speed climbing man.
1267
01:05:32,330 --> 01:05:34,890
Maybe you're flying in the night before
1268
01:05:34,890 --> 01:05:36,340
and you haven't climbed
in Yosemite in a while
1269
01:05:36,340 --> 01:05:39,677
so you decide to team up with
Alex and sprint up The Nose.
1270
01:05:39,677 --> 01:05:41,180
That's when you can take the whip,
1271
01:05:41,180 --> 01:05:43,190
when you're in a 5.10 wet lie back.
1272
01:05:43,190 --> 01:05:46,020
- Yeah but me and Brad, we
spend a lot of time in Yosemite,
1273
01:05:46,020 --> 01:05:48,040
we don't travel anywhere else.
1274
01:05:48,040 --> 01:05:49,890
- I have yet to go on any book tours.
1275
01:05:50,740 --> 01:05:51,573
- Yeah.
1276
01:05:53,502 --> 01:05:55,250
- I'll fall anywhere doing the fastest--
1277
01:05:55,250 --> 01:05:56,928
- You're not supposed to fall ever.
1278
01:05:56,928 --> 01:05:57,870
- Whoa, shit.
1279
01:05:57,870 --> 01:05:59,660
- Maybe they've got a new strategy.
1280
01:05:59,660 --> 01:06:00,493
- Wow.
1281
01:06:00,493 --> 01:06:01,326
- Bringing more cams.
1282
01:06:01,326 --> 01:06:02,264
- What--
1283
01:06:02,264 --> 01:06:03,420
- [Interviewer] They have a huge rack.
1284
01:06:03,420 --> 01:06:04,565
- They have a huge rack yeah?
1285
01:06:04,565 --> 01:06:05,650
- [Interviewer] Just to start.
1286
01:06:05,650 --> 01:06:07,673
- Yeah, just to start, it'll get thinner.
1287
01:06:08,590 --> 01:06:10,800
- Alex is like no dude, I swear it's safe,
1288
01:06:10,800 --> 01:06:12,310
we can totally make it safe
1289
01:06:12,310 --> 01:06:14,539
and then each time they go
up there he'll probably like,
1290
01:06:14,539 --> 01:06:18,077
just oops, we forgot the
other point five (laughs).
1291
01:06:19,310 --> 01:06:21,200
- Let's organize the rack so that,
1292
01:06:21,200 --> 01:06:23,410
you may as well just organize
it straight onto your harness
1293
01:06:23,410 --> 01:06:25,070
so you're ready to leave tomorrow.
1294
01:06:25,070 --> 01:06:28,120
- I've been really surprised
by Alex's willingness
1295
01:06:28,120 --> 01:06:29,518
to keep it a bit safer.
1296
01:06:29,518 --> 01:06:31,178
- I feel like we should just
start trimming down the rack
1297
01:06:31,178 --> 01:06:32,011
a little bit as we go.
1298
01:06:32,011 --> 01:06:32,943
- Although I'm already seeing that
1299
01:06:32,943 --> 01:06:34,240
when we're going through our rack,
1300
01:06:34,240 --> 01:06:35,630
he's like oh we can remove this piece,
1301
01:06:35,630 --> 01:06:37,055
we can remove this piece, and I'm like,
1302
01:06:37,055 --> 01:06:39,290
let's' not take that to far.
1303
01:06:39,290 --> 01:06:41,840
- Let's drop the cam hook, screw that,
1304
01:06:41,840 --> 01:06:43,360
maybe I'll leave these micronuts.
1305
01:06:43,360 --> 01:06:45,540
- So we will maybe need to put another nut
1306
01:06:45,540 --> 01:06:46,870
in the Great Roof tomorrow.
1307
01:06:46,870 --> 01:06:48,630
- If it's this nut then I'm not gonna feel
1308
01:06:48,630 --> 01:06:49,717
that much more secure anyway.
1309
01:06:49,717 --> 01:06:50,618
(Tommy laughs)
1310
01:06:50,618 --> 01:06:52,603
Do you wanna drop the green C three?
1311
01:06:56,530 --> 01:06:57,580
- Yeah, sure.
1312
01:06:57,580 --> 01:06:59,895
- Just take one thing off the harness.
1313
01:06:59,895 --> 01:07:01,560
- Sure.
1314
01:07:01,560 --> 01:07:02,470
- You're all wrapped up.
1315
01:07:02,470 --> 01:07:04,510
- Yeah that's not horrible.
1316
01:07:04,510 --> 01:07:06,010
That does feel heavy actually.
1317
01:07:07,390 --> 01:07:08,990
- That's why we'll trim it down.
1318
01:07:10,830 --> 01:07:13,873
- My wife isn't exactly stoked about this,
1319
01:07:14,810 --> 01:07:16,863
everybody thinks it's pretty dangerous.
1320
01:07:17,910 --> 01:07:22,410
With all the carnage in
the past year on that route
1321
01:07:22,410 --> 01:07:23,663
makes me hesitate a bit.
1322
01:07:24,750 --> 01:07:27,860
- There have been a lot
of semi-legendary falls
1323
01:07:27,860 --> 01:07:30,480
on The Nose where people fall
like 100 feet down the wall.
1324
01:07:30,480 --> 01:07:32,820
I was climbing with Ueli
Steck when he took a fall.
1325
01:07:32,820 --> 01:07:33,653
- Oh shit.
1326
01:07:33,653 --> 01:07:35,050
- [Alex] He's a little banged
up and bleeding a little bit
1327
01:07:35,050 --> 01:07:36,520
but he was basically fine.
1328
01:07:36,520 --> 01:07:39,590
The Huber brothers, I think
Thomas took some epic whipper
1329
01:07:39,590 --> 01:07:43,070
off The Nose and then just a week ago,
1330
01:07:43,070 --> 01:07:46,870
Hans Florine fell off and hit a ledge.
1331
01:07:46,870 --> 01:07:50,220
- I'm pretty sure I've
broken one or both my legs.
1332
01:07:50,220 --> 01:07:52,060
- [Alex] Shattered both his heels.
1333
01:07:52,060 --> 01:07:53,643
- [Nurse] Insert ice packs.
1334
01:07:55,570 --> 01:07:58,460
- Ice and elevation baby, and rest.
1335
01:07:58,460 --> 01:07:59,293
- [Alex] Hans has climbed The Nose
1336
01:07:59,293 --> 01:08:02,040
like 109 times or something.
1337
01:08:02,040 --> 01:08:03,090
- That's where I fell, right there.
1338
01:08:03,090 --> 01:08:05,090
- [Alex] And then to just
take a fall like that
1339
01:08:05,090 --> 01:08:08,560
and break both his legs is pretty grim.
1340
01:08:08,560 --> 01:08:11,600
- I think Hans' injury,
the way that we climb
1341
01:08:11,600 --> 01:08:15,503
I always thought that that
kinda injury was a possibility.
1342
01:08:16,380 --> 01:08:18,672
Breaking your legs you're
gonna recover from that.
1343
01:08:18,672 --> 01:08:19,693
- Road to recovery baby.
1344
01:08:19,693 --> 01:08:22,620
- [Tommy] I feel like
that risk is acceptable
1345
01:08:23,940 --> 01:08:28,072
but six months ago Quinn
Brett, a total badass,
1346
01:08:28,072 --> 01:08:33,072
fell off of the top of Boot
Flake and broke her back
1347
01:08:34,640 --> 01:08:36,393
doin exactly what we're doin.
1348
01:08:37,680 --> 01:08:42,600
- When Quinns accident happened,
my emergency pager goes off
1349
01:08:42,600 --> 01:08:45,050
and there's someone
who needs to be rescued
1350
01:08:45,050 --> 01:08:47,800
and it's one of our friends Quinn Brett
1351
01:08:47,800 --> 01:08:52,460
who had just taken the most
enormous fall you possibly could
1352
01:08:52,460 --> 01:08:56,020
off of the Boot Flake doin
the same tactic that Brad
1353
01:08:56,020 --> 01:09:00,670
uses to get up there
which is place no gear.
1354
01:09:00,670 --> 01:09:02,780
She had gotten all the way
to the end of the pitch,
1355
01:09:02,780 --> 01:09:07,400
somehow slipped and then
took the 100 foot fall
1356
01:09:07,400 --> 01:09:12,400
and hit the Texas Flake
and fell behind it.
1357
01:09:12,610 --> 01:09:13,980
I was told that she was dead
1358
01:09:13,980 --> 01:09:16,870
and that we were going
to do a body recovery.
1359
01:09:16,870 --> 01:09:19,230
We went up to get her down
and then it turned out
1360
01:09:19,230 --> 01:09:21,490
she was still alive and luckily they did
1361
01:09:21,490 --> 01:09:24,940
an amazing helicopter rescue,
got her off really quick
1362
01:09:24,940 --> 01:09:26,810
but she had shattered her spine
1363
01:09:26,810 --> 01:09:29,497
and probably would be paralyzed
for the rest of her life.
1364
01:09:29,497 --> 01:09:32,247
(dramatic music)
1365
01:09:37,080 --> 01:09:40,040
- I'd climbed the nose 12 or 13 times.
1366
01:09:40,040 --> 01:09:42,410
I did speed records on El Cap
1367
01:09:42,410 --> 01:09:45,220
and through other formations in the Valley
1368
01:09:45,220 --> 01:09:47,460
and in Zion and in Rocky.
1369
01:09:47,460 --> 01:09:50,420
For me, speed climbing, I
just really like moving.
1370
01:09:50,420 --> 01:09:52,170
Covering terrain really quickly,
1371
01:09:52,170 --> 01:09:55,170
you find yourself in what
they call the flow state.
1372
01:09:55,170 --> 01:09:57,100
Your moving, your moving,
your brain is firing,
1373
01:09:57,100 --> 01:09:58,520
your problem solving really quickly
1374
01:09:58,520 --> 01:10:00,670
and your body is moving
really efficiently.
1375
01:10:01,930 --> 01:10:03,660
Had I summited that day,
1376
01:10:03,660 --> 01:10:06,520
I would probably still be speed climbing.
1377
01:10:06,520 --> 01:10:09,260
I mean it was a pretty awesome feeling
1378
01:10:10,710 --> 01:10:13,093
until the moment I took a fall.
1379
01:10:14,390 --> 01:10:18,130
- Quinn lives in my home town
of Estes, see her all the time
1380
01:10:18,130 --> 01:10:21,177
and you see how her life has changed
1381
01:10:21,177 --> 01:10:24,160
and you're just like
wow that's pretty heavy.
1382
01:10:24,160 --> 01:10:28,410
So you know, I'm a father
now, I can't really do things
1383
01:10:28,410 --> 01:10:33,410
that are, you know I gotta
keep my seam pretty buttoned up
1384
01:10:33,630 --> 01:10:34,663
for the most part.
1385
01:10:36,677 --> 01:10:39,442
(birds chirping)
1386
01:10:39,442 --> 01:10:42,010
- [Alex] I remember my first
time going up these ledges.
1387
01:10:42,010 --> 01:10:43,729
- [Austin] Have fun guys.
1388
01:10:43,729 --> 01:10:45,270
- [Tommy] See ya.
1389
01:10:45,270 --> 01:10:46,220
- [Austin] Be safe.
1390
01:10:47,206 --> 01:10:49,456
- [Alex] My first time going
up these ledges it was like--
1391
01:10:49,456 --> 01:10:52,870
(dramatic music)
1392
01:10:52,870 --> 01:10:55,540
- [Alex] So we got Jim here
doing the rigging to help
1393
01:10:55,540 --> 01:10:57,050
get the cameraman in place.
1394
01:10:57,050 --> 01:10:58,360
How are we looking Jim?
1395
01:10:58,360 --> 01:10:59,340
- They're looking pretty good.
1396
01:10:59,340 --> 01:11:01,300
- [Alex] Yo Tommy, you in the Bolt Ladder?
1397
01:11:01,300 --> 01:11:03,453
- Yeah I like ran outta draws basically.
1398
01:11:04,350 --> 01:11:06,260
- It's a little strange to be up here
1399
01:11:06,260 --> 01:11:08,730
watching the guys who are
trying to break our record
1400
01:11:08,730 --> 01:11:11,060
but I'm psyched to see their tactics
1401
01:11:11,060 --> 01:11:13,013
and a little bit of heckling.
1402
01:11:13,950 --> 01:11:16,590
Tommy's kinda botching
it on the aid sequence.
1403
01:11:16,590 --> 01:11:18,450
- They have fucking, cruxing out, hold on.
1404
01:11:18,450 --> 01:11:19,283
- [Alex] What's that?
1405
01:11:19,283 --> 01:11:20,360
- Cruxing out, my fault.
1406
01:11:20,360 --> 01:11:21,960
- [Alex] I got you really tight.
1407
01:11:24,432 --> 01:11:26,245
- Can you take for a second?
1408
01:11:26,245 --> 01:11:27,923
- [Alex] Yeah, I gotcha.
1409
01:11:29,820 --> 01:11:31,000
- I gotta work this part out.
1410
01:11:31,000 --> 01:11:33,183
- [Alex] I placed a purple C three.
1411
01:11:34,030 --> 01:11:35,680
- Yeah I couldn't quite reach it.
1412
01:11:41,530 --> 01:11:44,200
- [Jim] Obviously Tommy
free climbs like a mad man
1413
01:11:44,200 --> 01:11:46,253
but to put it all out there
for something like this
1414
01:11:46,253 --> 01:11:48,230
is a little bit of a risk.
1415
01:11:48,230 --> 01:11:51,582
- [Alex] You shoulda saved
yourself one sling as an aider.
1416
01:11:51,582 --> 01:11:54,593
- Yeah, I should have an
aider, just remembered that.
1417
01:11:56,160 --> 01:11:57,730
- [Alex] Gumby in.
1418
01:11:57,730 --> 01:12:00,200
- The aid climbing fucks me up.
1419
01:12:00,200 --> 01:12:01,650
- [Alex] Yeah it always does.
1420
01:12:02,530 --> 01:12:04,230
- When I got up to the Boot Flake
1421
01:12:04,230 --> 01:12:06,183
I was thinking about Quinn.
1422
01:12:07,360 --> 01:12:11,083
I decided to put in a piece,
even if it slowed us down,
1423
01:12:13,120 --> 01:12:14,103
at least for now.
1424
01:12:16,090 --> 01:12:18,090
- [Alex] I'm not sure if
this is the best way but--
1425
01:12:18,090 --> 01:12:20,093
- Yeah I mean, we can tag it over.
1426
01:12:21,200 --> 01:12:22,033
Oh God.
1427
01:12:22,033 --> 01:12:22,866
- [Alex] I mean the thing is really
1428
01:12:22,866 --> 01:12:25,200
Tommy should just solo the Boot
but he just doesn't want to
1429
01:12:25,200 --> 01:12:27,410
which I totally understand and respect
1430
01:12:27,410 --> 01:12:29,540
but so in order for him
to get the cure back
1431
01:12:29,540 --> 01:12:32,040
means he has to lower it and
it's just a little junk showy.
1432
01:12:32,040 --> 01:12:34,384
- I'm good there, I don't
know, where do you go to,
1433
01:12:34,384 --> 01:12:35,670
you're at the King Swing right?
1434
01:12:35,670 --> 01:12:37,380
- No no, I'm above it now.
1435
01:12:37,380 --> 01:12:38,213
- Oh you are.
1436
01:12:38,213 --> 01:12:39,994
- So yeah I'll just lower you down to me.
1437
01:12:39,994 --> 01:12:41,870
Oh no wait, you just go back up
1438
01:12:41,870 --> 01:12:45,355
and it'll lower me right?
1439
01:12:45,355 --> 01:12:46,188
- Need to get you the gear though.
1440
01:12:46,188 --> 01:12:48,023
- Yeah you can just drop it down the line.
1441
01:12:49,707 --> 01:12:51,318
Oh, rack to the nuts.
1442
01:12:51,318 --> 01:12:52,151
(Tommy laughs)
1443
01:12:52,151 --> 01:12:53,083
Just the way I like it.
1444
01:12:54,300 --> 01:12:56,410
- I was wondering if
that was gonna happen.
1445
01:12:56,410 --> 01:12:57,330
- Hi guys.
1446
01:12:57,330 --> 01:12:58,163
- You.
1447
01:12:59,000 --> 01:13:00,280
- [Austin] How fast were you guys to here
1448
01:13:00,280 --> 01:13:01,470
on this go Tommy?
1449
01:13:01,470 --> 01:13:02,700
- 1, 38.
1450
01:13:02,700 --> 01:13:03,533
- [Austin] Nice.
1451
01:13:03,533 --> 01:13:05,560
Jim, how long did it take
you guys to get here?
1452
01:13:05,560 --> 01:13:08,023
- We're not fully race
pace yet and I think what--
1453
01:13:08,023 --> 01:13:09,110
- [Austin] 51 eh?
1454
01:13:09,110 --> 01:13:10,210
- 51 minutes (laughs).
1455
01:13:13,880 --> 01:13:17,190
- That seemed like, not
quite right you know?
1456
01:13:17,190 --> 01:13:18,490
- Yeah maybe not.
1457
01:13:18,490 --> 01:13:21,650
- We kinda need to start going
faster so we understand it.
1458
01:13:21,650 --> 01:13:22,787
You know what I mean,
like anybody could do
1459
01:13:22,787 --> 01:13:23,620
a four and a half hour run on The Nose
1460
01:13:23,620 --> 01:13:24,680
and be like that's cool.
1461
01:13:24,680 --> 01:13:25,513
- Anybody.
1462
01:13:25,513 --> 01:13:26,466
- Anybody.
1463
01:13:26,466 --> 01:13:27,577
- Yeah anybody can (laughs).
1464
01:13:27,577 --> 01:13:29,410
- [Austin] Anybody.
1465
01:13:29,410 --> 01:13:32,291
- Doing like a two, 50 lap
on The Nose is getting into
1466
01:13:32,291 --> 01:13:35,383
some real, like that's fast.
1467
01:13:36,920 --> 01:13:40,120
- Sweet, I'm honing in on
being an elite level climber.
1468
01:13:40,120 --> 01:13:41,420
- Yeah you're getting close.
1469
01:13:41,420 --> 01:13:42,667
- Yeah (laughs).
1470
01:13:42,667 --> 01:13:43,550
- I mean the Dawn Wall
thing was pretty cool
1471
01:13:43,550 --> 01:13:44,850
but it took 19 days.
1472
01:13:44,850 --> 01:13:45,683
- Yeah (laughs).
1473
01:13:47,100 --> 01:13:48,330
(dramatic music)
1474
01:13:48,330 --> 01:13:49,830
- We kinda need the smaller rack,
1475
01:13:49,830 --> 01:13:51,630
we need to drop a bunch of the cams.
1476
01:13:53,260 --> 01:13:54,210
Droppin number two.
1477
01:13:55,450 --> 01:13:56,830
- Yeah.
1478
01:13:56,830 --> 01:13:58,930
Drop the jacket, drop
the nuts, drop a grigri,
1479
01:13:58,930 --> 01:14:00,630
I feel like we could drop a micro.
1480
01:14:01,670 --> 01:14:02,530
- Okay.
1481
01:14:02,530 --> 01:14:03,810
- Micro off the rack.
1482
01:14:03,810 --> 01:14:05,850
Kinda wanna drop more cams.
1483
01:14:05,850 --> 01:14:07,100
Like could we drop a one?
1484
01:14:08,900 --> 01:14:11,133
- Uh.
1485
01:14:12,630 --> 01:14:13,510
- Yeah.
1486
01:14:13,510 --> 01:14:14,910
- That's not that many cams.
1487
01:14:16,820 --> 01:14:19,030
- [Alex] Five a.m and we're
about to go climb The Nose,
1488
01:14:19,030 --> 01:14:19,863
third time in three days.
1489
01:14:19,863 --> 01:14:22,970
- [Austin] So is this
strategy similar to yesterday?
1490
01:14:22,970 --> 01:14:24,940
- Yeah but less cams.
1491
01:14:24,940 --> 01:14:26,240
- Fewer cams.
1492
01:14:26,240 --> 01:14:27,073
- Fewer cams.
1493
01:14:27,934 --> 01:14:29,710
(speech drowned out by laughter)
1494
01:14:29,710 --> 01:14:31,660
- Make it a grammatically precise film.
1495
01:14:32,620 --> 01:14:35,850
Perfection starts with our spoken word
1496
01:14:35,850 --> 01:14:37,574
at the base of the root.
1497
01:14:37,574 --> 01:14:40,324
(dramatic music)
1498
01:14:42,540 --> 01:14:46,190
- The last couple days
I've been flowing better
1499
01:14:46,190 --> 01:14:47,897
and getting a little more fit.
1500
01:14:47,897 --> 01:14:50,647
(dramatic music)
1501
01:14:57,147 --> 01:15:01,677
I'd never realized how
freaking fun speed climbing is.
1502
01:15:01,677 --> 01:15:04,427
(dramatic music)
1503
01:15:06,260 --> 01:15:11,260
Climbing El Cap in a couple
of hours, that's unbelievable.
1504
01:15:12,403 --> 01:15:15,934
It's just gotta be the coolest
racetrack in the world.
1505
01:15:15,934 --> 01:15:17,597
- [Austin] Ya'll went 16 minutes faster.
1506
01:15:17,597 --> 01:15:18,440
- [Alex] Whoa buddy.
1507
01:15:18,440 --> 01:15:19,730
- [Austin] We do the
same split at the top,
1508
01:15:19,730 --> 01:15:20,850
we'll be at three hours.
1509
01:15:20,850 --> 01:15:22,150
- [Tommy] I'll do my best.
1510
01:15:27,160 --> 01:15:29,450
- [Alex] I mean the real
beauty of speed climbing,
1511
01:15:29,450 --> 01:15:31,203
it's like approaching perfection.
1512
01:15:32,260 --> 01:15:36,500
When you actually climb
smoothly up the whole wall,
1513
01:15:36,500 --> 01:15:39,870
there's no wasted movement,
no wasted gear, no wasted time
1514
01:15:41,010 --> 01:15:43,330
and you're in this perfectly
choreographed dance
1515
01:15:43,330 --> 01:15:44,163
with your partner.
1516
01:15:44,163 --> 01:15:46,380
Tell me when it's fixed!
1517
01:15:46,380 --> 01:15:47,553
It feels amazing.
1518
01:15:49,840 --> 01:15:52,000
- [Tommy] It's crazy climbing
with Alex honestly up there
1519
01:15:52,000 --> 01:15:53,910
it's a whole new level.
1520
01:15:53,910 --> 01:15:56,880
Like today he got kinda
psyched and started to go fast
1521
01:15:56,880 --> 01:15:58,633
and he was just running it out.
1522
01:15:59,980 --> 01:16:01,100
- [Alex] When you're going speed style
1523
01:16:01,100 --> 01:16:02,170
there are basically two options.
1524
01:16:02,170 --> 01:16:04,280
You can simul-climb or you can short-fix.
1525
01:16:04,280 --> 01:16:06,334
The leader gets to the anchor--
1526
01:16:06,334 --> 01:16:07,413
I'm tying it off.
1527
01:16:08,284 --> 01:16:10,283
And then pulls up all the extra rope,
1528
01:16:11,470 --> 01:16:13,924
ties the rope off to the anchor--
1529
01:16:13,924 --> 01:16:14,757
It's fixed!
1530
01:16:14,757 --> 01:16:16,663
The second starts to ascend the rope.
1531
01:16:17,810 --> 01:16:20,220
You just have 100 feet of
rope laying there in a pile
1532
01:16:20,220 --> 01:16:21,530
and you just start charging up the wall
1533
01:16:21,530 --> 01:16:22,830
with no protection really.
1534
01:16:23,760 --> 01:16:27,210
- [Tommy] Short fixing,
whenever you fall as the leader
1535
01:16:27,210 --> 01:16:30,110
you're looking at falling to
the end of that 100 foot rope
1536
01:16:31,990 --> 01:16:35,723
but Alex is willing to take the risk.
1537
01:16:36,690 --> 01:16:41,690
He's so different in that way,
like I've fallen 50 feet plus
1538
01:16:42,680 --> 01:16:45,618
probably 10 times on El Cap or something.
1539
01:16:45,618 --> 01:16:47,133
Alex never has.
1540
01:16:48,010 --> 01:16:51,150
He doesn't wanna fall at all
and he doesn't fall at all.
1541
01:16:51,150 --> 01:16:52,183
- [Austin] What was your time?
1542
01:16:52,183 --> 01:16:53,320
- Two, 57.
1543
01:16:53,320 --> 01:16:55,160
- I'm feeling pretty encouraged at two, 57
1544
01:16:55,160 --> 01:16:57,160
because Alex climbed
the route with his shoes
1545
01:16:57,160 --> 01:17:01,190
looking like that and it was really wet
1546
01:17:01,190 --> 01:17:03,207
and it was our third
day in a row (laughs).
1547
01:17:04,290 --> 01:17:06,013
- [Alex] It's just so ridiculous
to be at the top of El Cap
1548
01:17:06,013 --> 01:17:07,566
at nine in the morning.
1549
01:17:07,566 --> 01:17:09,600
- I know, love that.
1550
01:17:09,600 --> 01:17:10,550
- Some of these today felt like,
1551
01:17:10,550 --> 01:17:11,920
less grueling then yesterday.
1552
01:17:11,920 --> 01:17:12,753
- Yeah I totally agree.
1553
01:17:12,753 --> 01:17:14,430
- Like I felt sorta tired and slow
1554
01:17:14,430 --> 01:17:16,710
but yeah man it didn't feel--
1555
01:17:16,710 --> 01:17:18,560
I kinda think we can go sub-two dude.
1556
01:17:19,410 --> 01:17:20,571
We'll see.
1557
01:17:20,571 --> 01:17:21,404
(Tommy laughs)
1558
01:17:21,404 --> 01:17:23,020
- That would be awesome, oh my God.
1559
01:17:23,020 --> 01:17:26,780
Breaking this record, it
feels possible I think
1560
01:17:26,780 --> 01:17:30,333
but Alex really wants to
do it in under two hours.
1561
01:17:33,444 --> 01:17:35,120
It's gonna be hard.
1562
01:17:35,120 --> 01:17:37,340
- I've always sort of had the
life goal of climbing The Nose
1563
01:17:37,340 --> 01:17:40,660
sub two hours, it seems possible
1564
01:17:40,660 --> 01:17:43,390
but it seems kinda crazy, really hard.
1565
01:17:43,390 --> 01:17:45,200
Kinda like it's a two hour marathon.
1566
01:17:45,200 --> 01:17:47,480
It's a big psychological barrier.
1567
01:17:47,480 --> 01:17:50,500
Going sub two, I think
we'd be pretty proud
1568
01:17:50,500 --> 01:17:53,282
but we'll see.
1569
01:17:53,282 --> 01:17:56,080
(dramatic music)
1570
01:17:56,080 --> 01:17:56,960
- Ready?
1571
01:17:56,960 --> 01:17:57,793
Go.
1572
01:17:59,060 --> 01:18:02,050
- [Alex] Started exactly six,
20 we are off to the races.
1573
01:18:02,050 --> 01:18:04,660
- [Tommy] This time we pushed
it a little bit harder.
1574
01:18:04,660 --> 01:18:05,553
- [Alex] Nice Tommy.
1575
01:18:07,257 --> 01:18:09,183
About to say, you're looking pretty good.
1576
01:18:09,183 --> 01:18:11,270
- [Austin] Yeah.
1577
01:18:11,270 --> 01:18:13,980
- By their fourth attempt
Alex and Tommy were moving
1578
01:18:13,980 --> 01:18:16,960
way faster, I was across the valley,
1579
01:18:16,960 --> 01:18:18,510
filming with a telephoto lense.
1580
01:18:18,510 --> 01:18:19,510
- [Stranger] You got a friend up there?
1581
01:18:19,510 --> 01:18:21,880
- [Austin] Yeah they're
trying to break the record.
1582
01:18:21,880 --> 01:18:24,170
- [Stranger] Oh sweet, oh damn, who is it?
1583
01:18:24,170 --> 01:18:25,890
- [Austin] It's Alex
Honnald and Tommy Caldwell.
1584
01:18:25,890 --> 01:18:28,070
- [Stranger] Oh okay, never heard of 'em.
1585
01:18:28,070 --> 01:18:28,903
- [Austin] They're trying to make a name
1586
01:18:28,903 --> 01:18:30,409
for themselves really.
1587
01:18:30,409 --> 01:18:33,760
Tommy was cruisin, I mean
I was having to like jostle
1588
01:18:33,760 --> 01:18:35,060
and move around the camera a bunch
1589
01:18:35,060 --> 01:18:36,510
just to try keep up with him.
1590
01:18:36,510 --> 01:18:39,620
Oh nice here he goes, about
to charge the Stove Legs.
1591
01:18:39,620 --> 01:18:41,240
- [Tommy] I was getting
a little too psyched up,
1592
01:18:41,240 --> 01:18:44,510
like I was letting it get
out of my comfort zone
1593
01:18:44,510 --> 01:18:45,980
in terms of how fast I was going.
1594
01:18:45,980 --> 01:18:47,780
- [Alex] Gonna have to untie
and pull the rope through
1595
01:18:47,780 --> 01:18:50,120
to undo one prusiks we do.
1596
01:18:50,120 --> 01:18:51,870
So I had just taken the grigri off.
1597
01:18:54,130 --> 01:18:56,900
- [Austin] Let's see, there he is.
1598
01:18:56,900 --> 01:18:58,800
- [Tommy] And I just like slipped out.
1599
01:19:05,590 --> 01:19:06,640
- [Austin] Holy shit.
1600
01:19:09,050 --> 01:19:12,442
Dude Tommy just took a
fucking monstrous whipper,
1601
01:19:12,442 --> 01:19:14,250
like 100 feet.
1602
01:19:14,250 --> 01:19:15,780
I'm like, I can't tell,
1603
01:19:15,780 --> 01:19:18,670
he's climbing back up to Alex right now.
1604
01:19:18,670 --> 01:19:21,493
It was like right when I
was shifting the frame.
1605
01:19:22,440 --> 01:19:24,120
- [Tommy] I just fell
until I yanked against Alex
1606
01:19:24,120 --> 01:19:26,220
who's tied into the other end of the rope.
1607
01:19:28,080 --> 01:19:29,063
And then I just started
climbing right away.
1608
01:19:29,063 --> 01:19:31,270
- [Alex] Dude you whipped 100
feet, you were literally like
1609
01:19:31,270 --> 01:19:33,810
oh I hate that I always do
that and then you swung over
1610
01:19:33,810 --> 01:19:36,958
and punched back through
and I was like oh my God,
1611
01:19:36,958 --> 01:19:37,958
that was outrageous.
1612
01:19:39,580 --> 01:19:41,630
- [Austin] It's crazy, even
with taking a huge fall,
1613
01:19:41,630 --> 01:19:45,983
they're still gonna maybe go
faster then they have before.
1614
01:19:47,590 --> 01:19:49,010
- [Alex] After Tommy took his 100 footer,
1615
01:19:49,010 --> 01:19:50,940
up higher on the route
I slipped out of a crack
1616
01:19:50,940 --> 01:19:52,950
while short fixed and probably would have
1617
01:19:52,950 --> 01:19:57,950
taken a 50 or 60 footer but I
caught the rope with my hands.
1618
01:20:02,080 --> 01:20:04,770
I just don't really know, I
don't really know what happened
1619
01:20:04,770 --> 01:20:06,500
but I did rope burn my hand a little bit
1620
01:20:06,500 --> 01:20:08,150
and tore a chunk out of a finger.
1621
01:20:15,120 --> 01:20:18,787
(rope sliding against rock)
1622
01:20:20,131 --> 01:20:22,110
(Alex breathing heavily)
1623
01:20:22,110 --> 01:20:22,943
Yeah buddy!
1624
01:20:24,610 --> 01:20:25,443
Nice work.
1625
01:20:25,443 --> 01:20:28,860
Two, 31, that was a lot faster
1626
01:20:28,860 --> 01:20:33,860
but really like not that
cool, we kinda botched.
1627
01:20:35,310 --> 01:20:36,570
- [Austin] Does it hurt?
1628
01:20:36,570 --> 01:20:40,000
- Yeah I mean it burns, I mean
it's like a huge open hole.
1629
01:20:40,000 --> 01:20:41,510
On the other hand, I self arrest,
1630
01:20:41,510 --> 01:20:43,440
I basically caught the
rope and caught myself
1631
01:20:43,440 --> 01:20:45,270
rather than take a hundred footer
1632
01:20:45,270 --> 01:20:47,150
which is definitely a big plus.
1633
01:20:47,150 --> 01:20:49,450
- Yeah we fell in the same spot.
1634
01:20:49,450 --> 01:20:50,693
- Was that the exact same spot?
1635
01:20:50,693 --> 01:20:51,526
- Yeah.
1636
01:20:51,526 --> 01:20:52,656
- That's crazy.
- Exact same spot.
1637
01:20:52,656 --> 01:20:53,533
- That's crazy.
1638
01:20:53,533 --> 01:20:54,690
- Dude it was at least a hundred feet.
1639
01:20:54,690 --> 01:20:57,600
I was like, I'm still
falling, I'm still falling,
1640
01:20:57,600 --> 01:20:59,460
I was like I hope Alex didn't just untie
1641
01:20:59,460 --> 01:21:01,100
and I just like fall to my death.
1642
01:21:01,100 --> 01:21:03,373
I had time to think about all that.
1643
01:21:04,970 --> 01:21:06,850
- Doesn't feel quite as fun today.
1644
01:21:06,850 --> 01:21:08,283
- No it was minorly traumatizing.
1645
01:21:08,283 --> 01:21:11,400
- We're broke now, we're kinda horrified.
1646
01:21:11,400 --> 01:21:13,450
Man oh man, what a morning.
1647
01:21:13,450 --> 01:21:14,283
- Yup.
1648
01:21:15,980 --> 01:21:16,910
- It's a little horrifying
too 'cause the people
1649
01:21:16,910 --> 01:21:19,670
that are like watching today
being like oh this is cool,
1650
01:21:19,670 --> 01:21:20,690
and we're both like--
1651
01:21:20,690 --> 01:21:23,010
- I wonder if anybody was
watching when I fell massively.
1652
01:21:23,010 --> 01:21:24,853
- I know, I hope nobody saw that shit.
1653
01:21:25,833 --> 01:21:26,666
- Yeah.
1654
01:21:26,666 --> 01:21:30,096
(children speaking over each other)
1655
01:21:30,096 --> 01:21:31,679
- From the outside.
1656
01:21:33,580 --> 01:21:38,580
- Okay, I'm gonna get you, I'm
gonna get you, who's calling?
1657
01:21:40,320 --> 01:21:41,153
- [Youngest Child] Me.
1658
01:21:41,153 --> 01:21:41,986
- Who is?
1659
01:21:41,986 --> 01:21:42,880
Your calling?
1660
01:21:42,880 --> 01:21:43,713
Hello?
1661
01:21:45,190 --> 01:21:47,159
Hey how's it going?
1662
01:21:47,159 --> 01:21:48,610
- Daddy!
1663
01:21:48,610 --> 01:21:50,359
- Wanna say hi to daddy?
1664
01:21:50,359 --> 01:21:52,707
- Hi daddy, hi daddy.
1665
01:21:52,707 --> 01:21:55,480
- How fast did you climb today?
1666
01:21:55,480 --> 01:21:57,572
- [Tommy On Phone] We
climbed it in two hours
1667
01:21:57,572 --> 01:21:59,295
and 31 minutes.
1668
01:21:59,295 --> 01:22:00,628
- How'd it go today?
1669
01:22:00,628 --> 01:22:02,128
- [Oldest Child] I wanna be a base jumper!
1670
01:22:02,128 --> 01:22:03,140
- [Tommy On Phone] It was definitely
1671
01:22:03,140 --> 01:22:04,583
slightly less than ideal.
1672
01:22:06,787 --> 01:22:09,313
I took a really big
fall and Alex also fell
1673
01:22:10,450 --> 01:22:13,250
and grabbed the rope and tore
a huge hole in his finger.
1674
01:22:14,664 --> 01:22:15,497
- Awesome.
1675
01:22:17,483 --> 01:22:19,590
Are you okay?
1676
01:22:19,590 --> 01:22:22,040
- [Tommy On Phone] Yeah, yeah, I was safe.
1677
01:22:22,040 --> 01:22:24,740
We've got it set up so
we're only running it out
1678
01:22:24,740 --> 01:22:27,045
where it's clean and stuff.
1679
01:22:27,045 --> 01:22:30,930
So taking a big fall
is, not that dangerous.
1680
01:22:30,930 --> 01:22:34,420
- When Tommy mentioned the speed record,
1681
01:22:34,420 --> 01:22:37,695
I wasn't really attracted to the idea.
1682
01:22:37,695 --> 01:22:39,620
(Tommys speech muffled on phone)
1683
01:22:39,620 --> 01:22:42,960
When Quinn had her accident
and then Hans fell off The Nose
1684
01:22:42,960 --> 01:22:45,050
it was just an eye opener,
1685
01:22:45,050 --> 01:22:47,380
like oh man you can get really messed up
1686
01:22:48,340 --> 01:22:51,390
but Tommy loves climbing with Alex,
1687
01:22:51,390 --> 01:22:53,190
they're kind of unstoppable together
1688
01:22:53,190 --> 01:22:55,640
and they truly believe it's safe.
1689
01:22:55,640 --> 01:22:58,450
I don't know speed climbing very well
1690
01:22:58,450 --> 01:23:00,870
but my understanding is like
you guys are gonna climb fast
1691
01:23:00,870 --> 01:23:02,750
and you have this dialed and
you know what you're doing
1692
01:23:02,750 --> 01:23:06,895
so you just don't fall but
then they both fell in one day.
1693
01:23:06,895 --> 01:23:08,182
Yeah.
1694
01:23:08,182 --> 01:23:10,100
- [Tommy On Phone] But we're
not gonna do that anymore.
1695
01:23:10,100 --> 01:23:11,813
- Yeah but how do you avoid it?
1696
01:23:19,210 --> 01:23:21,470
- After taking those falls,
1697
01:23:21,470 --> 01:23:25,073
we felt like we needed to
dial it back a little bit.
1698
01:23:26,190 --> 01:23:27,690
- This is where I whipped the other day
1699
01:23:27,690 --> 01:23:28,920
and Tommy whipped here.
1700
01:23:28,920 --> 01:23:31,423
- [Tommy] Even Alex
seemed a bit shaken up.
1701
01:23:45,417 --> 01:23:49,334
- Gives the wrong impression
of speed climbing.
1702
01:23:51,292 --> 01:23:52,125
Ah, two, 51.
1703
01:23:52,125 --> 01:23:53,780
- We didn't take any
hundred foot falls today.
1704
01:23:53,780 --> 01:23:55,840
- Yeah and no injuries.
1705
01:23:55,840 --> 01:23:57,819
- Tommy and Alex, they're goin fast
1706
01:23:57,819 --> 01:24:01,740
but there's such a difference
between going three hours fast
1707
01:24:01,740 --> 01:24:02,770
to breaking the record.
1708
01:24:02,770 --> 01:24:04,570
- I think it might be
possible to get there
1709
01:24:04,570 --> 01:24:06,190
without redlining--
1710
01:24:06,190 --> 01:24:08,710
- They kinda gotta get it
together pretty quick here
1711
01:24:08,710 --> 01:24:12,090
I mean it's mid May and
if it drags on into June,
1712
01:24:12,090 --> 01:24:14,467
it gets hot and it gets crowded.
1713
01:24:14,467 --> 01:24:15,529
- [Alex] Don't let it go.
1714
01:24:15,529 --> 01:24:18,753
- The Nose has just become
so incredible popular,
1715
01:24:20,940 --> 01:24:23,220
everyone wants to do The Nose.
1716
01:24:23,220 --> 01:24:25,570
So you just get people
from all over the world.
1717
01:24:26,480 --> 01:24:27,943
It's packed.
1718
01:24:29,770 --> 01:24:32,945
- Wouldn't be The Nose if we
weren't jocking for position.
1719
01:24:32,945 --> 01:24:33,778
- [Austin] Get out of the way.
1720
01:24:33,778 --> 01:24:35,909
- [Brad] The wall climbers come up
1721
01:24:35,909 --> 01:24:39,534
and it gets frustrating
passing five to 10 parties.
1722
01:24:39,534 --> 01:24:42,761
(speaking foreign language)
1723
01:24:42,761 --> 01:24:43,961
- Go Tommy go!
1724
01:24:43,961 --> 01:24:44,794
- Gracias.
1725
01:24:46,080 --> 01:24:48,840
- Kinda smells, reminds me of urine.
1726
01:24:48,840 --> 01:24:50,080
Welcome to The Nose huh.
1727
01:24:50,080 --> 01:24:51,720
- It really is kind of a challenge to try
1728
01:24:51,720 --> 01:24:53,840
to not get stuck behind people.
1729
01:24:53,840 --> 01:24:57,640
The strategy is, you don't ask to pass
1730
01:24:57,640 --> 01:25:02,640
but you're really friendly,
you're like what's up guys?
1731
01:25:02,650 --> 01:25:05,310
Oh you're from Germany, sick, cool, yeah,
1732
01:25:05,310 --> 01:25:06,530
is it your first time out here?
1733
01:25:06,530 --> 01:25:07,950
And you're talking to them the whole time
1734
01:25:07,950 --> 01:25:10,220
and meanwhile you're just
kinda slowly climbing through
1735
01:25:10,220 --> 01:25:13,010
their junction, before
they know you're above 'em
1736
01:25:13,010 --> 01:25:15,170
and you're like all right
guys, have fun, good luck
1737
01:25:15,170 --> 01:25:16,755
and you just keep climbing.
1738
01:25:16,755 --> 01:25:20,220
(speaking foreign language)
1739
01:25:20,220 --> 01:25:21,053
- Thanks man.
1740
01:25:21,053 --> 01:25:21,950
Where are you from?
1741
01:25:21,950 --> 01:25:22,783
- Netherlands.
1742
01:25:24,900 --> 01:25:25,733
- Have fun.
1743
01:25:25,733 --> 01:25:26,566
- You too.
1744
01:25:29,283 --> 01:25:30,200
- What was the time?
1745
01:25:30,200 --> 01:25:32,646
- Two, 25.
- Two, 25.
1746
01:25:32,646 --> 01:25:33,479
- [Austin] Two, 25?
1747
01:25:33,479 --> 01:25:34,527
- Yeah.
1748
01:25:34,527 --> 01:25:35,360
- [Austin] Damn.
1749
01:25:35,360 --> 01:25:36,193
- Two, 25 is pretty good.
1750
01:25:36,193 --> 01:25:37,490
Should we go down and eat a sandwich?
1751
01:25:37,490 --> 01:25:38,684
Let's go see your kids.
1752
01:25:38,684 --> 01:25:39,517
- I know, my kids!
1753
01:25:39,517 --> 01:25:40,533
- I haven't seen your family yet.
1754
01:25:46,951 --> 01:25:50,951
(young girl speaking gibberish)
1755
01:26:00,503 --> 01:26:02,105
- Hi (laughs).
1756
01:26:02,105 --> 01:26:02,938
- Hey pits.
1757
01:26:02,938 --> 01:26:03,771
- Hey baby.
1758
01:26:03,771 --> 01:26:04,604
- Hey how's it going?
1759
01:26:04,604 --> 01:26:05,627
- Good, you remember me?
1760
01:26:05,627 --> 01:26:06,460
- I do, how you feeling?
1761
01:26:06,460 --> 01:26:07,400
- Good, did you watch us at all?
1762
01:26:07,400 --> 01:26:09,432
- [Rebecca] Think I saw
you towards the top.
1763
01:26:09,432 --> 01:26:10,265
- [Brad] How's it going?
1764
01:26:10,265 --> 01:26:11,594
- [Tommy] Oh yeah, Brad.
1765
01:26:11,594 --> 01:26:12,560
- Did you guys do The Nose?
1766
01:26:12,560 --> 01:26:15,007
- Our time today was two, 25.
1767
01:26:15,007 --> 01:26:16,110
- What was your time?
1768
01:26:16,110 --> 01:26:18,034
- Five minutes away, yeah.
1769
01:26:18,034 --> 01:26:20,090
(dramatic music)
1770
01:26:20,090 --> 01:26:21,420
- [Tommy] So what are we doin?
1771
01:26:21,420 --> 01:26:22,990
Are we goin all?
1772
01:26:22,990 --> 01:26:23,860
- Let's go fast, yeah.
1773
01:26:23,860 --> 01:26:26,120
- Go fast, let's feel the burn.
1774
01:26:26,120 --> 01:26:29,490
(birds chirping)
1775
01:26:29,490 --> 01:26:32,957
- We gotta make sure they
start at the exact same foot
1776
01:26:32,957 --> 01:26:34,740
of the root that we start at.
1777
01:26:34,740 --> 01:26:37,313
Making sure all the clocks work.
1778
01:26:38,380 --> 01:26:39,950
- Seems like they might break the record
1779
01:26:39,950 --> 01:26:41,430
but we'll see, it's a little hot
1780
01:26:41,430 --> 01:26:42,810
and there's some parties on the wall
1781
01:26:42,810 --> 01:26:46,363
so it might be a little
more difficult today.
1782
01:26:47,810 --> 01:26:50,230
When me and Brad were going
for it we were nervous,
1783
01:26:50,230 --> 01:26:53,230
like oh boy this is gonna be stressful.
1784
01:26:53,230 --> 01:26:55,950
Today, yeah these guys are
the ones with all the stress.
1785
01:26:55,950 --> 01:26:57,490
- Oh we don't have any stress.
1786
01:26:57,490 --> 01:26:59,310
- We just get to chill and watch.
1787
01:26:59,310 --> 01:27:00,143
That's good.
1788
01:27:00,143 --> 01:27:01,960
- Did you guys start from
this pedestal or that one?
1789
01:27:01,960 --> 01:27:03,380
- Brad would monkey up this way.
1790
01:27:03,380 --> 01:27:05,150
- It kinda makes more
sense to start right here
1791
01:27:05,150 --> 01:27:06,250
and just bam, bam, bam.
1792
01:27:06,250 --> 01:27:08,350
- I mean you're the professional (laughs).
1793
01:27:15,890 --> 01:27:16,723
- Okay, ready?
1794
01:27:18,220 --> 01:27:19,081
- Go.
1795
01:27:19,081 --> 01:27:21,831
(dramatic music)
1796
01:27:22,790 --> 01:27:23,680
- [Alex] Remember the Hans saying,
1797
01:27:23,680 --> 01:27:27,869
start out slow, go, go, go,
start out fast, just won't last.
1798
01:27:27,869 --> 01:27:29,561
- And there they go, history begins.
1799
01:27:29,561 --> 01:27:32,311
(dramatic music)
1800
01:27:33,371 --> 01:27:34,540
(speech muffled by wind)
1801
01:27:34,540 --> 01:27:35,616
- [Jim] Taking the swing.
1802
01:27:35,616 --> 01:27:36,589
- [Brad] Oh yeah.
1803
01:27:36,589 --> 01:27:39,262
(Jim cheering)
1804
01:27:39,262 --> 01:27:42,012
(dramatic music)
1805
01:27:45,988 --> 01:27:50,988
♪ Clock started, nothing
left but tie me down ♪
1806
01:27:53,951 --> 01:27:56,701
(dramatic music)
1807
01:28:08,828 --> 01:28:11,178
- All right Tommy, tell me
when you get to that piece
1808
01:28:11,178 --> 01:28:13,314
and I'll swing over.
1809
01:28:13,314 --> 01:28:14,231
- Okay man.
1810
01:28:15,991 --> 01:28:20,324
♪ We can call the whole thing, down ♪
1811
01:28:21,715 --> 01:28:22,751
- [Alex] Nice work Tommy.
1812
01:28:22,751 --> 01:28:24,418
- [Tommy] Thank you.
1813
01:28:25,860 --> 01:28:27,740
- Tommy and Alex left all
their gear at the base
1814
01:28:27,740 --> 01:28:29,567
so we're bootying it (laughs).
1815
01:28:31,175 --> 01:28:32,680
They don't need it, they get free stuff
1816
01:28:32,680 --> 01:28:35,567
but me, I work and steal
for my living (laughs).
1817
01:28:38,110 --> 01:28:38,950
- Let's see what their time is.
1818
01:28:38,950 --> 01:28:41,088
- They did really fast on the sickle bit.
1819
01:28:41,088 --> 01:28:43,880
- They're at 30, almost 38 minutes.
1820
01:28:43,880 --> 01:28:46,360
- [Austin] That morning
there was an audience.
1821
01:28:46,360 --> 01:28:48,700
Becca was there with
Alex's girlfriend Sanni.
1822
01:28:48,700 --> 01:28:49,533
- Go daddy!
1823
01:28:52,130 --> 01:28:52,963
- I think he heard you.
1824
01:28:52,963 --> 01:28:54,920
- They got Hans sitting out there,
1825
01:28:54,920 --> 01:28:56,801
broken ankles and all.
1826
01:28:56,801 --> 01:28:58,728
(Hans cheering)
1827
01:28:58,728 --> 01:28:59,561
(Brad booing)
1828
01:28:59,561 --> 01:29:00,953
And Brad and Jim,
1829
01:29:02,510 --> 01:29:03,740
secretly hoping that they'd watch them
1830
01:29:03,740 --> 01:29:05,518
make a bunch of mistakes.
1831
01:29:05,518 --> 01:29:07,840
Is there a part of you guys,
like I hope they stubbied?
1832
01:29:07,840 --> 01:29:09,150
- No.
1833
01:29:09,150 --> 01:29:09,983
- Yeah.
1834
01:29:09,983 --> 01:29:10,979
- I don't think so.
1835
01:29:10,979 --> 01:29:11,812
(both laughing)
1836
01:29:11,812 --> 01:29:13,123
- Do you see daddy?
1837
01:29:14,630 --> 01:29:16,829
Do you see daddy in there?
1838
01:29:16,829 --> 01:29:18,729
- Fit in the boot.
1839
01:29:18,729 --> 01:29:20,400
- [Rebecca And Sonni]
He's on the boot (laughs)
1840
01:29:20,400 --> 01:29:22,570
- Do you know where the boot is kids?
1841
01:29:22,570 --> 01:29:24,983
You can see a perfect
little boot up there.
1842
01:29:28,110 --> 01:29:31,020
- [Tommy] The Boot Flake is
always an exciting moment.
1843
01:29:31,020 --> 01:29:32,976
- [Alex] Yeah this is my favorite pitch.
1844
01:29:32,976 --> 01:29:33,809
- [Tommy] Yeah.
1845
01:29:33,809 --> 01:29:34,642
- [Alex] Yeah.
1846
01:29:34,642 --> 01:29:36,390
- [Tommy] It's like my
least favorite pitch.
1847
01:29:36,390 --> 01:29:39,263
Just get grip, thinking about
quitting when I'm up there.
1848
01:29:39,263 --> 01:29:42,430
(slow dramatic music)
1849
01:29:53,930 --> 01:29:55,510
- [Jim] Tommy places a cam on the boot.
1850
01:29:55,510 --> 01:29:57,203
- [Brad] Oh yup, there he goes.
1851
01:29:57,203 --> 01:29:58,786
- What is he doing?
1852
01:30:00,480 --> 01:30:02,100
I bet that makes Becca happy.
1853
01:30:02,100 --> 01:30:02,933
- Yup.
1854
01:30:04,980 --> 01:30:06,200
- [Rebecca] Give it to me kiddo,
1855
01:30:06,200 --> 01:30:07,650
daddy's standing on the boot.
1856
01:30:09,364 --> 01:30:11,410
(spectators cheering)
1857
01:30:11,410 --> 01:30:12,770
- [Jim] He lowers down to grab it
1858
01:30:12,770 --> 01:30:14,213
before Alex does the swing.
1859
01:30:15,860 --> 01:30:19,050
That's definitely a
time waster right there.
1860
01:30:19,050 --> 01:30:20,250
- [Brad] Yeah.
1861
01:30:20,250 --> 01:30:21,860
- Okay here we go.
1862
01:30:21,860 --> 01:30:23,010
- [Tommy] We've been checking the time
1863
01:30:23,010 --> 01:30:24,880
after Alex does the King Swing,
1864
01:30:24,880 --> 01:30:26,570
it was an hour and one minute.
1865
01:30:26,570 --> 01:30:29,020
- [Alex] We were five
minutes faster than before.
1866
01:30:29,020 --> 01:30:30,650
I just knew it was game
on, it was time to go
1867
01:30:30,650 --> 01:30:31,600
as fast as I could.
1868
01:30:32,760 --> 01:30:35,640
- Oh man they got someone
starting up the Great Roof
1869
01:30:35,640 --> 01:30:37,783
in a minute, might get hosed.
1870
01:30:39,220 --> 01:30:40,910
- When I was getting up to the Great Roof,
1871
01:30:40,910 --> 01:30:44,510
these two Bask women who we
passed twice before in the week
1872
01:30:44,510 --> 01:30:46,860
had just finished aid climbing the pitch
1873
01:30:46,860 --> 01:30:48,670
and so there was already
rope hanging down it
1874
01:30:48,670 --> 01:30:49,720
and gear all over it.
1875
01:30:50,630 --> 01:30:54,297
(speaking foreign language)
1876
01:30:57,800 --> 01:30:59,680
It's mildly annoying when
you can't put your fingers
1877
01:30:59,680 --> 01:31:01,323
into the places you want but it means that
1878
01:31:01,323 --> 01:31:04,617
I can just pull on their quick
draws and just climb through.
1879
01:31:04,617 --> 01:31:07,034
- [Foreign Woman] Go Alex go!
1880
01:31:11,678 --> 01:31:15,345
(speaking foreign language)
1881
01:31:18,042 --> 01:31:18,875
- [Tommy] What's that?
1882
01:31:18,875 --> 01:31:19,708
- Watch me good here.
1883
01:31:25,243 --> 01:31:28,910
(speaking foreign language)
1884
01:31:32,180 --> 01:31:33,600
Got the lines fixed Tommy!
1885
01:31:33,600 --> 01:31:35,413
- [Tommy] Alex gets to the
anchor, short fixes there
1886
01:31:35,413 --> 01:31:37,743
and then I just jug as fast as I can.
1887
01:31:39,294 --> 01:31:42,961
(speaking foreign language)
1888
01:31:44,700 --> 01:31:47,610
- When I got to the Great
Roof, we're right on pace
1889
01:31:47,610 --> 01:31:50,750
for the record but then I
just start getting tangled
1890
01:31:50,750 --> 01:31:52,873
in the equipment from the Bask ladies.
1891
01:31:53,971 --> 01:31:54,804
- [Foreign Woman] Go Tommy go!
1892
01:31:54,804 --> 01:31:57,010
- I have to switch my whole system.
1893
01:31:57,010 --> 01:31:58,720
Putting jumars on, taking 'em off,
1894
01:31:58,720 --> 01:32:00,380
figuring out where to put 'em,
1895
01:32:00,380 --> 01:32:02,557
there's this other rope, I'm
worried it's gonna get stuck,
1896
01:32:02,557 --> 01:32:04,023
just clustering.
1897
01:32:20,510 --> 01:32:21,890
Oh fuck.
1898
01:32:21,890 --> 01:32:24,300
I lowered out and then
I went to pull the loop
1899
01:32:24,300 --> 01:32:26,060
but it was just caught.
1900
01:32:26,060 --> 01:32:29,070
The only quick solution I
could think of was to untie
1901
01:32:29,070 --> 01:32:32,130
and pull the rope as fast as
I could and then tie back in.
1902
01:32:32,130 --> 01:32:35,490
Alex had gotten stopped because
he didn't have any rope left
1903
01:32:35,490 --> 01:32:36,930
he's just kinda like waiting for me
1904
01:32:36,930 --> 01:32:39,254
right in the middle of
the cruxxed out pitch.
1905
01:32:39,254 --> 01:32:40,410
- [Tommy] Something got
twisted in that anchor
1906
01:32:40,410 --> 01:32:41,884
I have to untie.
1907
01:32:41,884 --> 01:32:42,717
- [Alex] Sorry about that.
1908
01:32:42,717 --> 01:32:43,910
No, it's not your fault.
1909
01:32:43,910 --> 01:32:45,106
- What's going on?
1910
01:32:45,106 --> 01:32:46,190
- You know where they're at Hans?
1911
01:32:46,190 --> 01:32:47,860
- Alex is right where I fell.
1912
01:32:50,830 --> 01:32:55,605
- So I pull my end then I just
start trying to tie back in.
1913
01:32:55,605 --> 01:32:58,355
(dramatic music)
1914
01:32:59,820 --> 01:33:01,130
- [Alex] Every time you
speed climb The Nose
1915
01:33:01,130 --> 01:33:02,170
you run into situations
1916
01:33:02,170 --> 01:33:03,770
that you haven't necessarily
dealt with before
1917
01:33:03,770 --> 01:33:05,330
there's always some kind of weird thing
1918
01:33:05,330 --> 01:33:07,820
and the real test is how
quickly you can deal with it
1919
01:33:07,820 --> 01:33:10,700
and manage and then just
keep moving forward.
1920
01:33:10,700 --> 01:33:12,060
It was definitely the right call for Tommy
1921
01:33:12,060 --> 01:33:13,810
just to look at, be like oh
here's what I need to do,
1922
01:33:13,810 --> 01:33:16,606
untie, pull, pull, pull,
retie, here we go, keep going.
1923
01:33:16,606 --> 01:33:18,816
It's like, good improvising by Tommy.
1924
01:33:18,816 --> 01:33:21,566
(dramatic music)
1925
01:33:24,740 --> 01:33:25,993
- Oh shit.
1926
01:33:25,993 --> 01:33:28,743
(dramatic music)
1927
01:33:31,510 --> 01:33:32,931
- [Alex] Nice work, way to deal.
1928
01:33:32,931 --> 01:33:33,764
- Okay, adios.
1929
01:33:33,764 --> 01:33:34,931
- Okay, adios.
1930
01:33:36,386 --> 01:33:38,010
- [Tommy] That probably
wasted two minutes.
1931
01:33:38,010 --> 01:33:39,310
- [Austin] Look at him go.
1932
01:33:40,940 --> 01:33:43,810
- [Tommy] But you know Alex
just started to boogey up
1933
01:33:43,810 --> 01:33:47,323
the steep cracks at the top
like nobody else ever had.
1934
01:33:48,550 --> 01:33:51,360
Climbing like a beast in no fall terrain
1935
01:33:52,200 --> 01:33:53,903
and we made up tons of time there.
1936
01:33:54,780 --> 01:33:57,060
- [Alex] On each of the last six pitches
1937
01:33:57,060 --> 01:33:59,500
I have positions where
I could probably take
1938
01:33:59,500 --> 01:34:01,153
a hundred to a 200 foot fall.
1939
01:34:03,940 --> 01:34:05,660
So I didn't look at any splits or anything
1940
01:34:05,660 --> 01:34:07,170
you don't really wanna
think about pace to much
1941
01:34:07,170 --> 01:34:09,800
you wanna just go as hard
as you can and just execute.
1942
01:34:09,800 --> 01:34:11,120
Just focus on what we're doing
1943
01:34:11,120 --> 01:34:13,400
and then just find out on top.
1944
01:34:13,400 --> 01:34:15,207
- [Brad] Shit dude he is just fucking--
1945
01:34:15,207 --> 01:34:16,380
- Wow it's amazing.
1946
01:34:16,380 --> 01:34:17,740
- Tommy's at the Wild Stance,
1947
01:34:17,740 --> 01:34:20,860
Alex is on the final Bolt Ladder.
1948
01:34:20,860 --> 01:34:23,110
- [Alex] The last pitch is
like the full glorious sprint
1949
01:34:23,110 --> 01:34:24,620
to the finish line.
1950
01:34:24,620 --> 01:34:27,033
It's completely exposed,
totally outrageous.
1951
01:34:27,940 --> 01:34:31,060
You're hand over handing
bolts, you're like (grunts),
1952
01:34:31,060 --> 01:34:33,660
just leave it all on the
table, punch it to the top.
1953
01:34:35,720 --> 01:34:37,235
It feels so heroic.
1954
01:34:37,235 --> 01:34:40,540
(spectators cheering)
1955
01:34:40,540 --> 01:34:43,040
- Can't tell me, I'm running
to the top, get some!
1956
01:34:44,424 --> 01:34:45,850
(spectators cheering)
1957
01:34:45,850 --> 01:34:47,820
- I wasn't checking my watch at all
1958
01:34:47,820 --> 01:34:50,707
I was just trying to go as
fast as I physically can.
1959
01:34:51,720 --> 01:34:53,480
- [Alex] I'm just running
uphill with a bunch of weight
1960
01:34:53,480 --> 01:34:55,660
hanging off me and then the
goal is just to pull the rope
1961
01:34:55,660 --> 01:34:57,637
as tight as you can and
then start pulling on Tommy.
1962
01:34:57,637 --> 01:34:58,470
Yo Tommy!
1963
01:35:00,000 --> 01:35:02,910
(Alex breathing heavily)
1964
01:35:02,910 --> 01:35:03,743
Come on Tommy!
1965
01:35:04,700 --> 01:35:07,494
- I see him, he's pulling,
hand over handing.
1966
01:35:07,494 --> 01:35:08,475
- [Rebecca] Let me see.
1967
01:35:08,475 --> 01:35:09,308
- [Sanni] Come on Tommy!
1968
01:35:09,308 --> 01:35:11,000
- The tree is in sight, I'm just,
1969
01:35:11,000 --> 01:35:13,640
I'm running up the final
slabs as fast as I can.
1970
01:35:13,640 --> 01:35:14,564
- [Alex] Come on Tommy!
1971
01:35:14,564 --> 01:35:16,603
- All of a sudden I just
get jerked to a halt.
1972
01:35:22,210 --> 01:35:25,510
I just started panicking,
I was like, oh no!
1973
01:35:25,510 --> 01:35:26,660
- [Alex] Come on Tommy!
1974
01:35:29,460 --> 01:35:32,280
- And again I had to
friggin untie the rope
1975
01:35:32,280 --> 01:35:34,970
and it probably took me like
two or three times as long
1976
01:35:34,970 --> 01:35:36,550
to untie as it should have.
1977
01:35:39,710 --> 01:35:40,783
- [Alex] Come on Tommy!
1978
01:35:42,003 --> 01:35:45,273
- Finally got it untied
and ran to the tree.
1979
01:35:50,900 --> 01:35:51,900
- [Alex] Yeah buddy!
1980
01:35:55,490 --> 01:35:57,120
- [Austin] When Tommy ran up
to the tree without the rope
1981
01:35:57,120 --> 01:35:58,593
I was like that's unorthodox.
1982
01:36:00,584 --> 01:36:02,510
- [Alex] Did you just untie at the end?
1983
01:36:02,510 --> 01:36:04,397
- Yeah my rope got caught.
1984
01:36:04,397 --> 01:36:06,074
- [Alex] Well, good call
1985
01:36:06,074 --> 01:36:08,270
- I didn't even really
realize what had happened.
1986
01:36:08,270 --> 01:36:10,353
Alex just kind of casually walks back.
1987
01:36:11,280 --> 01:36:12,870
Two, 10, 14.
1988
01:36:12,870 --> 01:36:13,703
- Two, 10, 14.
1989
01:36:13,703 --> 01:36:16,684
(spectators cheering)
1990
01:36:16,684 --> 01:36:17,601
- Hi daddy!
1991
01:36:20,600 --> 01:36:21,510
- Say good job daddy!
1992
01:36:21,510 --> 01:36:23,480
He's standing on top.
1993
01:36:23,480 --> 01:36:25,073
- Well man, nice dude.
- boom.
1994
01:36:26,197 --> 01:36:27,090
That felt good.
1995
01:36:27,090 --> 01:36:27,923
- Yeah, yeah.
1996
01:36:27,923 --> 01:36:29,490
- It still wasn't quite perfect though.
1997
01:36:29,490 --> 01:36:30,807
- Yeah, I was like-
1998
01:36:30,807 --> 01:36:33,273
- Got stuck several times
and that was kinda like uh.
1999
01:36:33,273 --> 01:36:35,459
- That was good though, we got the record.
2000
01:36:35,459 --> 01:36:36,568
- You got it back!
2001
01:36:36,568 --> 01:36:37,810
- Nice work.
2002
01:36:37,810 --> 01:36:39,270
That was sick.
2003
01:36:39,270 --> 01:36:42,469
- Yeah, we got it by, kind of a lot.
2004
01:36:42,469 --> 01:36:43,302
- Almost 10 minutes.
2005
01:36:43,302 --> 01:36:44,215
- Yeah.
- Yeah.
2006
01:36:44,215 --> 01:36:45,255
Yeah, legit.
2007
01:36:45,255 --> 01:36:47,005
Now we just gotta shave 10 more.
2008
01:36:47,005 --> 01:36:48,105
- Oh Jesus.
2009
01:36:48,105 --> 01:36:49,742
- That definitely hurt a lot more.
2010
01:36:49,742 --> 01:36:51,790
(gentle music)
2011
01:36:51,790 --> 01:36:54,516
Breaking somebodies record is fun,
2012
01:36:54,516 --> 01:36:57,310
it's nice to one up your
friends or whatever.
2013
01:36:57,310 --> 01:36:58,640
Brad's calling.
2014
01:36:58,640 --> 01:36:59,473
- [Tommy] Oh nice.
2015
01:36:59,473 --> 01:37:00,850
- Brad Gobright.
2016
01:37:00,850 --> 01:37:03,480
- Congratulations, you did it!
2017
01:37:03,480 --> 01:37:05,600
- Yo, we took it, we took it,
2018
01:37:05,600 --> 01:37:09,790
but not quite by enough for
it to be out of the question
2019
01:37:09,790 --> 01:37:10,700
for you guys though you know?
2020
01:37:10,700 --> 01:37:12,000
We might have to go again.
2021
01:37:13,490 --> 01:37:15,650
But the idea is that you're
seeking out that feeling
2022
01:37:15,650 --> 01:37:17,120
of perfection where they're like,
2023
01:37:17,120 --> 01:37:20,150
this climb went as well
as any climb can go
2024
01:37:20,150 --> 01:37:22,190
and so when we got to the top in two, 10,
2025
01:37:22,190 --> 01:37:23,850
we're like oh that felt really good
2026
01:37:23,850 --> 01:37:27,990
and we did it pretty quickly
but it wasn't quite perfect.
2027
01:37:27,990 --> 01:37:29,950
- Yeah I think both of
us were immediately like,
2028
01:37:29,950 --> 01:37:33,890
oh we can do better than that,
we're not done with this.
2029
01:37:33,890 --> 01:37:36,000
Does seem possible to go faster.
2030
01:37:36,000 --> 01:37:38,050
- Yeah I mean we could for
sure shave 10 minutes off that.
2031
01:37:38,050 --> 01:37:39,951
- I feel like we're just
getting close to our potential
2032
01:37:39,951 --> 01:37:44,193
at this point so that two
hour mark is very enticing.
2033
01:37:46,550 --> 01:37:49,550
We just decided that we should keep going,
2034
01:37:49,550 --> 01:37:51,293
try and do it in under two hours.
2035
01:37:52,950 --> 01:37:55,230
- You know I think any reasonable person
2036
01:37:55,230 --> 01:37:58,890
would break The Nose speed
record and hang up their rack
2037
01:37:58,890 --> 01:38:02,500
and they'd be done but Tommy and Alex
2038
01:38:02,500 --> 01:38:04,730
they wanted to break two hours.
2039
01:38:04,730 --> 01:38:07,060
It's kind of this mythical time
2040
01:38:07,060 --> 01:38:08,270
that people have wondered about like,
2041
01:38:08,270 --> 01:38:10,070
oh is it even possible?
2042
01:38:10,070 --> 01:38:11,860
- My thought is that if we break two hours
2043
01:38:11,860 --> 01:38:14,330
that'll be getting pretty
close to this is perfect,
2044
01:38:14,330 --> 01:38:15,580
like this is the best that we can do.
2045
01:38:15,580 --> 01:38:18,160
- It's gonna be real hard,
like this is gonna hurt
2046
01:38:18,160 --> 01:38:19,660
but we're gonna try again
tomorrow and who knows?
2047
01:38:19,660 --> 01:38:23,193
Maybe we'll just cut
off another 10 minutes.
2048
01:38:24,264 --> 01:38:27,075
- [Austin] Yeah fellas!
2049
01:38:27,075 --> 01:38:27,908
- Yeah!
2050
01:38:29,490 --> 01:38:31,270
Hey, what's happening?
2051
01:38:31,270 --> 01:38:33,023
How's it goin buddy?
2052
01:38:33,989 --> 01:38:34,822
- The baby's sleeping.
2053
01:38:34,822 --> 01:38:35,713
- Oh sorry.
2054
01:38:35,713 --> 01:38:38,763
- But you did good, nice job.
2055
01:38:38,763 --> 01:38:40,089
- Yo Hans, what happened?
2056
01:38:40,089 --> 01:38:41,897
(everyone laughing)
2057
01:38:41,897 --> 01:38:44,830
- Don't insult the history book here.
2058
01:38:44,830 --> 01:38:47,580
Seven hour, six hour, and five hour mark
2059
01:38:47,580 --> 01:38:51,420
all broken by Peter
Croft and Dave Schultz.
2060
01:38:51,420 --> 01:38:55,440
Dean Potter and Timmy O'Neill
broke the four hour mark,
2061
01:38:55,440 --> 01:38:58,280
Yuji and Hans broke the three hour mark,
2062
01:38:58,280 --> 01:39:02,702
Alex hasn't broken an hour
marks, oh that's gotta hurt.
2063
01:39:02,702 --> 01:39:05,285
(all laughing)
2064
01:39:06,187 --> 01:39:07,793
- That's fair, yeah.
2065
01:39:08,860 --> 01:39:10,214
- [Tommy] So yeah, go again tomorrow?
2066
01:39:10,214 --> 01:39:11,381
- [Alex] Yeah.
2067
01:39:14,700 --> 01:39:17,340
- Two experienced climbers
died when they plummeted off
2068
01:39:17,340 --> 01:39:19,277
El Capitan in Yosemite this morning.
2069
01:39:19,277 --> 01:39:21,340
- [Female Reporter] The two
climbers were attempting El Cap
2070
01:39:21,340 --> 01:39:23,070
when something went horribly wrong.
2071
01:39:23,070 --> 01:39:25,740
The climbers, identified
as 46 year old Jason Wells
2072
01:39:25,740 --> 01:39:30,010
of Boulder, Colorado and 42
year, a Tim Klein from Palmdale.
2073
01:39:30,010 --> 01:39:31,950
Rangers still figuring out just how
2074
01:39:31,950 --> 01:39:33,823
these climbers fell Saturday.
2075
01:39:36,710 --> 01:39:38,010
- [Alex] The next morning
we were getting ready
2076
01:39:38,010 --> 01:39:39,700
for another attempt on The Nose
2077
01:39:39,700 --> 01:39:42,970
and we found out there
was an accident on El Cap.
2078
01:39:42,970 --> 01:39:45,710
Two super experienced
climbers, Jason and Tim,
2079
01:39:45,710 --> 01:39:48,630
they were using speed climbing
tactics on another route
2080
01:39:48,630 --> 01:39:51,630
call the Salathe which is
just to the left of The Nose.
2081
01:39:51,630 --> 01:39:53,540
It's unclear exactly what happened
2082
01:39:53,540 --> 01:39:55,613
but somehow fell off the wall.
2083
01:39:56,680 --> 01:39:58,553
It was like, woof, pretty heavy.
2084
01:39:59,472 --> 01:40:01,000
An accident like this, is you never know
2085
01:40:01,000 --> 01:40:03,480
if maybe they did have
gear and maybe it pulled
2086
01:40:03,480 --> 01:40:06,010
or maybe a rock rolled, cut the rope,
2087
01:40:06,010 --> 01:40:07,240
you know what I mean,
there's so many variables.
2088
01:40:07,240 --> 01:40:09,270
I mean it definitely makes you pause
2089
01:40:09,270 --> 01:40:11,210
and think about your choices a little bit.
2090
01:40:11,210 --> 01:40:13,849
- Are you guys thinking
you're gonna climb tomorrow?
2091
01:40:13,849 --> 01:40:14,950
- I don't know.
2092
01:40:14,950 --> 01:40:17,070
But the reality is, if
you're speed climbing
2093
01:40:17,070 --> 01:40:19,020
on The Nose you've already thought about
2094
01:40:19,020 --> 01:40:20,670
how an accident could occur,
2095
01:40:20,670 --> 01:40:22,870
what it would be like to fall off.
2096
01:40:22,870 --> 01:40:24,950
You're already doing your
absolute best to minimize
2097
01:40:24,950 --> 01:40:26,890
the chance of that happening.
2098
01:40:26,890 --> 01:40:29,030
- Like there's always an
anchor, we're always at least--
2099
01:40:29,030 --> 01:40:31,080
- [Alex] I think that for
Tommy the bigger challenge
2100
01:40:31,080 --> 01:40:32,990
is his obligation to his family
2101
01:40:32,990 --> 01:40:35,350
and making sure the
Becca feels comfortable
2102
01:40:35,350 --> 01:40:36,340
with his decision making.
2103
01:40:36,340 --> 01:40:37,187
- It's just the kind of
thing where it's like
2104
01:40:37,187 --> 01:40:39,230
I want a guarantee but
there's no guarantee
2105
01:40:39,230 --> 01:40:44,230
so I just have to trust
you guys but that's scary.
2106
01:40:45,140 --> 01:40:46,150
- I was feeling a little bit wigged
2107
01:40:46,150 --> 01:40:48,580
about just raging tomorrow.
2108
01:40:48,580 --> 01:40:49,990
- Yeah making sure there's no gear--
2109
01:40:49,990 --> 01:40:52,600
- Maybe take a second
look at those fixings.
2110
01:40:52,600 --> 01:40:55,570
So we decided to go and
take it a little more chill.
2111
01:40:55,570 --> 01:40:58,170
Mostly to just test out the psyche.
2112
01:40:58,170 --> 01:41:00,105
To go sub two I feel like
you just gotta be like,
2113
01:41:00,105 --> 01:41:03,750
(grunts) so stoked and this
definitely took the wind
2114
01:41:03,750 --> 01:41:04,950
out of the sails for me.
2115
01:41:07,530 --> 01:41:12,530
We went back up, taking the
time to reanalyze everything.
2116
01:41:14,130 --> 01:41:16,823
It felt really solid to me, it felt safe.
2117
01:41:19,000 --> 01:41:21,050
It's just a question of how to go faster.
2118
01:41:24,280 --> 01:41:28,173
The one place I know I can save
some time is the Boot Flake.
2119
01:41:31,740 --> 01:41:34,555
We'll go faster if I just skip that piece.
2120
01:41:34,555 --> 01:41:37,305
(birds chirping)
2121
01:41:39,730 --> 01:41:43,904
But that's a line I'm
just not willing to cross.
2122
01:41:43,904 --> 01:41:47,071
(slow dramatic music)
2123
01:41:53,130 --> 01:41:55,250
Yeah I thought that was fun
today, I didn't feel wigged,
2124
01:41:55,250 --> 01:41:56,083
it felt super fun.
2125
01:41:56,083 --> 01:41:57,240
- That was so fun.
2126
01:41:57,240 --> 01:41:59,629
I'm glad that we retouched
all the safety stuff
2127
01:41:59,629 --> 01:42:00,950
I think it's totally fine.
2128
01:42:00,950 --> 01:42:01,783
- Yeah.
2129
01:42:02,740 --> 01:42:06,150
- So I would have to shave
another five off the bottom?
2130
01:42:06,150 --> 01:42:06,983
- [Alex] Yeah.
2131
01:42:08,360 --> 01:42:12,670
- The last piece of the
puzzle was how to go faster
2132
01:42:12,670 --> 01:42:13,983
on that bottom section.
2133
01:42:15,860 --> 01:42:19,727
I set up a self belay,
rehearsed every move
2134
01:42:19,727 --> 01:42:22,663
so that I could it totally flawlessly.
2135
01:42:27,970 --> 01:42:30,093
If I can shave that five minutes,
2136
01:42:31,270 --> 01:42:33,270
I'd be holding up my end of the bargain.
2137
01:42:36,349 --> 01:42:37,502
- Good morning.
2138
01:42:37,502 --> 01:42:38,575
- [Other Climbers] Good morning.
2139
01:42:38,575 --> 01:42:39,665
- [Rock Climber] Congratulations.
2140
01:42:39,665 --> 01:42:40,833
- Oh thanks.
2141
01:42:40,833 --> 01:42:41,953
Goin again today.
2142
01:42:44,740 --> 01:42:46,986
- Let's say today is gonna
be a little less casual.
2143
01:42:46,986 --> 01:42:49,736
(birds chirping)
2144
01:42:57,690 --> 01:42:58,990
- [Alex] Nice and relaxed.
2145
01:43:00,180 --> 01:43:01,013
- [Tommy] Okay ready.
2146
01:43:01,013 --> 01:43:02,031
- [Alex] Yup.
2147
01:43:02,031 --> 01:43:02,864
(watch beeps)
2148
01:43:02,864 --> 01:43:05,614
(dramatic music)
2149
01:43:06,450 --> 01:43:07,572
- [Alex] Whoa Tommy.
2150
01:43:07,572 --> 01:43:10,620
(dramatic music)
2151
01:43:10,620 --> 01:43:12,463
Tommy was charging to Sickle.
2152
01:43:14,060 --> 01:43:15,410
I mean most people spend the whole day
2153
01:43:15,410 --> 01:43:16,310
getting to Sickle.
2154
01:43:17,520 --> 01:43:18,980
Wow, 11, 06.
2155
01:43:18,980 --> 01:43:20,250
- [Tommy] Holy shit.
2156
01:43:20,250 --> 01:43:21,710
- [Alex] And there goes
Tommy blitzing to Sickle
2157
01:43:21,710 --> 01:43:24,393
in 11 minutes, it's completely outrageous.
2158
01:43:25,640 --> 01:43:27,002
Get it, get it, get it.
2159
01:43:27,002 --> 01:43:29,752
(dramatic music)
2160
01:43:45,303 --> 01:43:48,803
(music drowns out speech)
2161
01:43:49,960 --> 01:43:51,005
- [Alex] Where you guys from?
2162
01:43:51,005 --> 01:43:54,505
(music drowns out speech)
2163
01:44:01,187 --> 01:44:02,310
- [Tommy] I'm on the Bolt!
2164
01:44:02,310 --> 01:44:04,487
- [Alex] Okay I have you on set.
2165
01:44:04,487 --> 01:44:06,103
You're on normal belay.
2166
01:44:07,507 --> 01:44:09,540
(music drowns out speech)
2167
01:44:09,540 --> 01:44:11,510
- [Alex] Man that was really fast, 56.
2168
01:44:11,510 --> 01:44:13,200
- [Tommy] Wow, five minutes faster.
2169
01:44:13,200 --> 01:44:14,150
- [Alex] Nice work!
2170
01:44:15,186 --> 01:44:16,370
Okay your line's fixed!
2171
01:44:16,370 --> 01:44:18,260
Tommy puts in an amazing effort
2172
01:44:18,260 --> 01:44:20,100
and puts us in a position to succeed
2173
01:44:20,100 --> 01:44:21,760
and I'm obligated to do my best
2174
01:44:21,760 --> 01:44:23,636
to see us through to the end.
2175
01:44:23,636 --> 01:44:26,386
(dramatic music)
2176
01:44:30,630 --> 01:44:31,940
- [Tommy] Yeah AleX!
2177
01:44:31,940 --> 01:44:33,463
Crushing dude!
2178
01:44:33,463 --> 01:44:36,213
(dramatic music)
2179
01:44:51,860 --> 01:44:56,670
Alex is rocketing up these
steep amazing pitches
2180
01:44:56,670 --> 01:44:59,383
2500 feet off the ground.
2181
01:45:00,700 --> 01:45:03,123
God he's just so in his element.
2182
01:45:08,490 --> 01:45:12,900
Seeing him climbing with
absolute grace and confidence
2183
01:45:12,900 --> 01:45:14,700
I mean that's perfection.
2184
01:45:24,050 --> 01:45:26,800
(hooks rattling)
2185
01:45:45,386 --> 01:45:48,053
(hook clipping)
2186
01:45:51,962 --> 01:45:54,712
(hooks rattling)
2187
01:46:15,300 --> 01:46:16,133
Yeah Alex!
2188
01:46:16,133 --> 01:46:17,650
- [Alex] All right, fixed.
2189
01:46:17,650 --> 01:46:19,060
- [Tommy] Climbing with him up there
2190
01:46:19,060 --> 01:46:23,220
I get to not only witness but
to be part of that mastery.
2191
01:46:24,920 --> 01:46:26,163
- [Alex] I'm on top Tommy!
2192
01:46:26,163 --> 01:46:27,413
- [Tommy] Okay!
2193
01:46:31,297 --> 01:46:36,070
And do something together,
it feels, transcendent.
2194
01:46:36,070 --> 01:46:36,903
- Come on Tommy!
2195
01:46:37,990 --> 01:46:40,913
Come on, go fast!
2196
01:46:42,988 --> 01:46:44,714
Yeah Tommy come on!
2197
01:46:44,714 --> 01:46:48,214
(Tommy breathing heavily)
2198
01:46:49,085 --> 01:46:51,978
Yeah, yeah Tommy!
2199
01:46:51,978 --> 01:46:53,185
- We do it?
2200
01:46:53,185 --> 01:46:54,299
- [Alex] Oh yeah.
2201
01:46:54,299 --> 01:46:57,514
(Tommy cheers)
2202
01:46:57,514 --> 01:47:02,514
- Oh my God.
2203
01:47:04,651 --> 01:47:05,484
Oh my God.
2204
01:47:06,401 --> 01:47:09,125
(Tommy breathing heavily)
2205
01:47:09,125 --> 01:47:11,728
(Tommy grunts)
2206
01:47:11,728 --> 01:47:12,561
- What do we got?
2207
01:47:12,561 --> 01:47:13,897
- I'll come show you.
2208
01:47:13,897 --> 01:47:16,700
(Tommy grunts)
2209
01:47:16,700 --> 01:47:18,163
- Oh that was so sick dude.
2210
01:47:19,980 --> 01:47:20,813
Good work.
2211
01:47:25,040 --> 01:47:26,040
- Fuck yeah.
2212
01:47:28,303 --> 01:47:29,136
Yeah!
2213
01:47:30,690 --> 01:47:34,140
Dude, one, 58, one, 58, 07.
2214
01:47:34,140 --> 01:47:35,110
- Whoa!
2215
01:47:35,110 --> 01:47:36,694
- Yeah!
- Killed it!
2216
01:47:36,694 --> 01:47:39,220
Yeah, sick.
2217
01:47:39,220 --> 01:47:40,260
- Sick.
2218
01:47:40,260 --> 01:47:42,190
- Wow beat it by two minutes.
2219
01:47:42,190 --> 01:47:43,881
- Yeah, let's never do this again.
2220
01:47:43,881 --> 01:47:44,980
(Tommy laughs)
2221
01:47:44,980 --> 01:47:46,913
- Good work dude, you were charging.
2222
01:47:47,840 --> 01:47:51,380
I actually smelled burning
rubber at one point
2223
01:47:51,380 --> 01:47:53,464
and I was like that's appropriate.
2224
01:47:53,464 --> 01:47:54,470
- [Rebecca On Phone] Hello?
2225
01:47:54,470 --> 01:47:55,303
- Hey baby.
2226
01:47:56,263 --> 01:47:57,096
- [Rebecca On Phone] You did it!
2227
01:47:57,096 --> 01:47:57,929
- We did it!
2228
01:47:57,929 --> 01:47:59,430
- [Rebecca On Phone] Come
on, are you guys psyched?
2229
01:47:59,430 --> 01:48:00,263
- Yeah.
2230
01:48:00,263 --> 01:48:01,530
- The thing is 'cause
if we kept goin forever
2231
01:48:01,530 --> 01:48:03,770
I bet we could go to like
one, 45 or something but--
2232
01:48:03,770 --> 01:48:05,612
- Oh God, that sounds real painful.
2233
01:48:05,612 --> 01:48:06,970
- [Rebecca On Phone] We
don't need to do that.
2234
01:48:06,970 --> 01:48:08,220
- Yeah no I don't wanna do that.
2235
01:48:08,220 --> 01:48:10,656
- Alex said he felt emotional
when he felt the timer.
2236
01:48:10,656 --> 01:48:12,520
- [Rebecca On Phone]
Are you gonna cry Alex?
2237
01:48:12,520 --> 01:48:14,002
- No no, the feeling has past,
2238
01:48:14,002 --> 01:48:15,412
I already feel like we kinda sucked
2239
01:48:15,412 --> 01:48:16,514
and we should of done better.
2240
01:48:16,514 --> 01:48:17,347
- [Tommy] Yeah.
2241
01:48:17,347 --> 01:48:18,180
- [Rebecca On Phone] Well I'd be crying
2242
01:48:18,180 --> 01:48:19,624
if you guys didn't do it right now.
2243
01:48:19,624 --> 01:48:20,999
(both laughing)
2244
01:48:20,999 --> 01:48:22,150
- Yup.
2245
01:48:22,150 --> 01:48:22,983
- [Tommy] Yo Hans.
2246
01:48:22,983 --> 01:48:24,380
- [Hans On Phone] Congratulations guys.
2247
01:48:24,380 --> 01:48:25,213
- [Alex] Oh you saw it?
2248
01:48:25,213 --> 01:48:26,046
- Thank you.
- Yeah thanks.
2249
01:48:26,046 --> 01:48:27,350
- Pretty exciting huh?
2250
01:48:27,350 --> 01:48:28,680
- [Hans On Phone] Are you guys done?
2251
01:48:28,680 --> 01:48:30,420
- [Both In Unison] Yeah
we're done, we're good.
2252
01:48:30,420 --> 01:48:32,670
- One, 58, 07, we're calling it good.
2253
01:48:32,670 --> 01:48:35,002
- Yeah yeah, I'm psyched with that.
2254
01:48:35,002 --> 01:48:36,110
- [Hans On Phone] Hold on, hold on.
2255
01:48:36,110 --> 01:48:38,430
One, 58, 07 right?
2256
01:48:38,430 --> 01:48:40,000
- Yup yup.
2257
01:48:40,000 --> 01:48:41,340
- [Hans On Phone] Okay
that's the official time
2258
01:48:41,340 --> 01:48:42,260
that we'll go with.
2259
01:48:42,260 --> 01:48:44,186
- Yeah that's the official time.
2260
01:48:44,186 --> 01:48:47,920
You can go ahead and etch that into stone,
2261
01:48:47,920 --> 01:48:48,915
that's the official time.
2262
01:48:48,915 --> 01:48:51,665
(dramatic music)
2263
01:49:17,250 --> 01:49:19,349
- That probably knocks Brad
and Jim out of the game.
2264
01:49:19,349 --> 01:49:21,070
(Tommy laughs)
2265
01:49:21,070 --> 01:49:22,430
- That was the goal all along.
2266
01:49:22,430 --> 01:49:23,890
- Yeah exactly.
2267
01:49:23,890 --> 01:49:25,860
Come on who cares about breaking two,
2268
01:49:25,860 --> 01:49:28,262
let's just break Brads spirit.
2269
01:49:28,262 --> 01:49:30,652
(Tommy laughs)
2270
01:49:30,652 --> 01:49:32,289
Just kidding Brad.
2271
01:49:32,289 --> 01:49:34,872
(Tommy laughs)
2272
01:49:54,889 --> 01:49:57,306
(slow music)
2273
01:49:58,305 --> 01:50:58,500
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