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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:00,000 --> 00:00:03,350 - [Narrator] Welcome to the 14th Annual 2 00:00:03,350 --> 00:00:04,971 Reel Rock Film Tour. 3 00:00:04,971 --> 00:00:06,770 (gentle guitar music) 4 00:00:06,770 --> 00:00:09,600 Presented by The North Face. 5 00:00:09,600 --> 00:00:14,250 Since 1966 we have viewed walls not as obstacles 6 00:00:14,250 --> 00:00:15,980 but as opportunities. 7 00:00:15,980 --> 00:00:17,920 From the big walls of Yosemite 8 00:00:17,920 --> 00:00:20,480 to the high peaks of the Himalayas. 9 00:00:20,480 --> 00:00:23,640 We were searching for a personal kind of freedom. 10 00:00:23,640 --> 00:00:26,030 In this pursuit we found a community 11 00:00:26,030 --> 00:00:28,350 strengthened by different stories, 12 00:00:28,350 --> 00:00:31,410 experiences, and perspectives. 13 00:00:31,410 --> 00:00:34,570 This community has shown us that the only way forward, 14 00:00:34,570 --> 00:00:35,403 is together. 15 00:00:36,320 --> 00:00:38,503 Walls are meant for climbing. 16 00:00:41,100 --> 00:00:42,830 - [Climber] Okay, ready? 17 00:00:42,830 --> 00:00:44,420 Go. 18 00:00:44,420 --> 00:00:45,947 - History begins. 19 00:00:46,047 --> 00:00:48,651 You have no idea what to expect 20 00:00:49,060 --> 00:00:50,660 - [Nina] I know that I can do it, 21 00:00:50,660 --> 00:00:52,558 it's like, game on. 22 00:00:52,558 --> 00:00:53,391 (screams) 23 00:00:53,391 --> 00:00:55,058 - No gear, no falls! 24 00:00:56,130 --> 00:00:58,130 - [Narrator] Reel Rock 14 is also brought 25 00:00:58,130 --> 00:01:00,263 to you by Black Diamond. 26 00:01:02,610 --> 00:01:04,880 We design and manufacture the most 27 00:01:04,880 --> 00:01:07,263 innovative mountain equipment in the world. 28 00:01:08,660 --> 00:01:13,023 Live, climb, repeat, Black Diamond. 29 00:01:13,908 --> 00:01:18,908 Yeti, in the van, in the dirt, on the trail, 30 00:01:21,720 --> 00:01:26,720 wherever you climb, Yeti is built for the wild. 31 00:01:27,588 --> 00:01:29,210 (upbeat music) 32 00:01:29,210 --> 00:01:33,810 Trublue Auto Belay, from the start of your journey 33 00:01:33,810 --> 00:01:35,693 to the goals you dream of reaching. 34 00:01:36,750 --> 00:01:41,483 Most tested, most trusted, most true. 35 00:01:43,260 --> 00:01:45,670 Reel Rock is also proud to partner with 36 00:01:45,670 --> 00:01:47,363 The American Alpine Club. 37 00:01:48,240 --> 00:01:49,800 Love to climb? 38 00:01:49,800 --> 00:01:50,683 Join the club. 39 00:01:51,750 --> 00:01:56,750 And Access Fund, protecting Americas climbing. 40 00:01:56,767 --> 00:01:58,840 (upbeat music) 41 00:01:58,840 --> 00:02:01,553 And now, get ready for four new films. 42 00:02:03,040 --> 00:02:08,040 The High Road, United States of Joe's. 43 00:02:08,028 --> 00:02:08,921 (screams in pain) 44 00:02:09,790 --> 00:02:11,934 an exclusive sneak preview 45 00:02:13,530 --> 00:02:16,099 And our feature presentation, 46 00:02:16,099 --> 00:02:17,140 - Falling. 47 00:02:17,140 --> 00:02:18,613 The Nose speed record. 48 00:02:19,798 --> 00:02:20,631 - [Male Rock Climber Voiceover] This has gotta be 49 00:02:20,631 --> 00:02:21,950 the coolest racetrack in the world. 50 00:02:21,950 --> 00:02:23,320 - 16 minutes faster. 51 00:02:23,320 --> 00:02:25,433 - [Narrator] It's time for Reel Rock 14. 52 00:02:27,000 --> 00:02:33,074 Advertise your product or brand here contact www.OpenSubtitles.org today 53 00:02:36,792 --> 00:02:40,375 (sounds of brushing teeth) 54 00:02:50,066 --> 00:02:52,816 (zipper zipping) 55 00:03:01,983 --> 00:03:05,150 (upbeat guitar music) 56 00:03:14,850 --> 00:03:18,350 - We're out here in Roy, New Mexico. 57 00:03:18,350 --> 00:03:22,890 A really big sandstone bouldering area, very remote feeling. 58 00:03:22,890 --> 00:03:26,610 It's definitely flown under the radar for the past few years 59 00:03:26,610 --> 00:03:27,860 which is pretty nice. 60 00:03:27,860 --> 00:03:30,613 There's a good chance that you'll be the only ones out here. 61 00:03:31,460 --> 00:03:33,460 - Nina and I have a really good relationship, 62 00:03:33,460 --> 00:03:36,683 we go out climbing a lot, She's super motivated. 63 00:03:37,620 --> 00:03:39,330 - [Interviewer] Who climbs harder on the boulders? 64 00:03:39,330 --> 00:03:42,570 - Oh Nina climbs way harder on the boulders. 65 00:03:42,570 --> 00:03:43,403 - Come on James. 66 00:03:44,500 --> 00:03:47,999 (James grunting) 67 00:03:47,999 --> 00:03:49,480 - Holy shit. 68 00:03:49,480 --> 00:03:51,793 Sometimes she can warm up on my project. 69 00:03:52,888 --> 00:03:54,303 - This is so fun. 70 00:03:55,750 --> 00:03:57,200 - [James] Nice, come on Nina. 71 00:03:59,444 --> 00:04:00,694 - So cool, yay! 72 00:04:04,400 --> 00:04:07,820 When I go out climbing, I'm not necessarily looking for 73 00:04:07,820 --> 00:04:11,683 the hardest grade, I'm really driven by aesthetics. 74 00:04:13,670 --> 00:04:15,270 - Nice, good, come on. 75 00:04:15,270 --> 00:04:17,973 - I wanna look for the most beautiful lines. 76 00:04:19,143 --> 00:04:21,960 - That's good, I got you, come on. 77 00:04:21,960 --> 00:04:25,563 - The ones that make me react in this visceral way. 78 00:04:28,023 --> 00:04:31,363 And it just so happens to be the tall ones. 79 00:04:32,210 --> 00:04:34,460 - Nina likes climbing taller problems 80 00:04:34,460 --> 00:04:37,591 which can be a little nerve wracking sometimes. 81 00:04:37,591 --> 00:04:41,440 (James speaking faintly) 82 00:04:41,440 --> 00:04:44,261 - Oh my God, that was kind of exciting. 83 00:04:44,261 --> 00:04:45,094 - Yeah? 84 00:04:46,370 --> 00:04:50,260 - I'll see a line and it'll be this really cool big thing 85 00:04:50,260 --> 00:04:52,780 and I'll think, do I actually wanna climb this thing? 86 00:04:52,780 --> 00:04:54,250 Is it worth it for me? 87 00:04:54,250 --> 00:04:57,830 And if it is, next step is to check it out on the rope. 88 00:04:57,830 --> 00:04:59,180 Whoop. 89 00:04:59,180 --> 00:05:00,760 Make sure I know what the holds are 90 00:05:00,760 --> 00:05:02,223 and what my beta is like. 91 00:05:05,640 --> 00:05:08,960 It's about dealing with the fear on a rope, 92 00:05:08,960 --> 00:05:11,380 really immersing myself in it. 93 00:05:11,380 --> 00:05:13,930 So in the real moment of climbing it, 94 00:05:13,930 --> 00:05:18,200 I can feel that fear still rise up on an instinctual level 95 00:05:18,200 --> 00:05:20,260 but just be able to manage it a lot better 96 00:05:20,260 --> 00:05:24,704 and be like okay, I feel this fear, I hear it, I sense it, 97 00:05:24,704 --> 00:05:27,363 but I don't have to listen to it. 98 00:05:27,436 --> 00:05:34,842 (electronic music) 99 00:06:48,295 --> 00:06:50,878 (upbeat music) 100 00:06:53,689 --> 00:06:56,439 (deep breathing) 101 00:07:01,118 --> 00:07:02,038 - [James] Good job. 102 00:07:02,038 --> 00:07:02,871 - Ye! 103 00:07:03,950 --> 00:07:06,653 - [James] It's easy to be inspired by Nina. 104 00:07:08,500 --> 00:07:10,683 She's always looking to push it harder. 105 00:07:13,330 --> 00:07:14,973 Looking for the next big thing. 106 00:07:17,580 --> 00:07:18,730 - For the past couple years 107 00:07:18,730 --> 00:07:22,610 I had this seemingly far away goal 108 00:07:22,610 --> 00:07:26,957 to climb this beautiful boulder called Too Big To Flail. 109 00:07:26,957 --> 00:07:28,752 (dramatic music) 110 00:07:28,752 --> 00:07:32,080 It's in the Buttermilks which is world renowned 111 00:07:32,080 --> 00:07:34,205 for very, very, big boulders. 112 00:07:34,205 --> 00:07:36,960 (dramatic piano music) 113 00:07:36,960 --> 00:07:40,252 It's probably around 50 feet or so. 114 00:07:40,252 --> 00:07:42,307 You walk up to the base, you look at it, 115 00:07:42,307 --> 00:07:45,487 and your eyes just keep going up. 116 00:07:45,487 --> 00:07:48,281 (slow dramatic music) 117 00:07:48,281 --> 00:07:50,774 You think, oh my gosh, it's just sheer. 118 00:07:50,774 --> 00:07:53,941 (slow dramatic music) 119 00:07:56,160 --> 00:07:58,210 I first heard about Too Big To Flail 120 00:07:58,210 --> 00:08:01,570 watching Alex Honnold climb it in one of the Reel Rocks 121 00:08:01,570 --> 00:08:02,570 way back in the day. 122 00:08:03,630 --> 00:08:05,080 - I wrapped down it and tried all the moves. 123 00:08:05,080 --> 00:08:05,913 Oh shit. 124 00:08:05,913 --> 00:08:06,773 And just thinking about doing it, 125 00:08:06,773 --> 00:08:08,440 I was like this is terrifying. 126 00:08:08,440 --> 00:08:09,762 Shit. 127 00:08:09,762 --> 00:08:10,595 - [Rock Climber Spotter] You okay? 128 00:08:10,595 --> 00:08:11,428 - [Alex] Yup. 129 00:08:11,428 --> 00:08:14,780 - Seeing Alex on that climb, my heart was in my throat. 130 00:08:14,780 --> 00:08:15,850 How can he do that? 131 00:08:15,850 --> 00:08:17,530 That's just totally nuts. 132 00:08:17,530 --> 00:08:22,530 Never did I think, oh maybe I could do that one day. 133 00:08:22,860 --> 00:08:25,300 - [Colette] When Nina started coming on the scene, 134 00:08:25,300 --> 00:08:29,334 2010, 2011, she was just one of those young guns 135 00:08:29,334 --> 00:08:30,831 coming up quick. 136 00:08:30,831 --> 00:08:33,152 (upbeat music) 137 00:08:33,152 --> 00:08:34,293 - [James] Solid. 138 00:08:34,293 --> 00:08:35,126 - [Colette] Yeah. 139 00:08:35,126 --> 00:08:37,467 Doing double digit grades just kind of effortlessly. 140 00:08:37,467 --> 00:08:38,300 - [James] Come on. 141 00:08:38,300 --> 00:08:40,340 - [Nina] I really like doing these hard problems. 142 00:08:40,340 --> 00:08:41,290 - [James] Nice one. 143 00:08:42,389 --> 00:08:44,230 - Yes, it feels so good. 144 00:08:44,230 --> 00:08:47,110 But I realized, I wanna expand a little bit, 145 00:08:47,110 --> 00:08:48,730 push myself mentally. 146 00:08:48,730 --> 00:08:50,430 My first highball was probably 147 00:08:50,430 --> 00:08:53,470 this super overhanging V10 in Massachusetts 148 00:08:53,470 --> 00:08:54,820 called Speed of Life. 149 00:08:54,820 --> 00:08:57,340 It's got a terrible landing, you have to like jump off 150 00:08:57,340 --> 00:09:01,720 to the ledge behind or you fall down this big chute. 151 00:09:01,720 --> 00:09:05,460 I tried for a couple years and I fell so many times. 152 00:09:05,460 --> 00:09:08,214 It really honed my sense of falling. 153 00:09:08,214 --> 00:09:10,240 - [James] Nice, get in there. 154 00:09:10,240 --> 00:09:12,571 (Nina screaming happily) 155 00:09:12,571 --> 00:09:15,460 - That gave me confidence to try these climbs 156 00:09:15,460 --> 00:09:16,900 that were taller. 157 00:09:16,900 --> 00:09:18,690 I tried Evilution Direct. 158 00:09:18,690 --> 00:09:19,660 - [James] Come on Nina! 159 00:09:19,660 --> 00:09:22,480 - [Nina] I'm at the lip and I've got this heel hook. 160 00:09:22,480 --> 00:09:24,390 - [James] Yeah, come on. 161 00:09:24,390 --> 00:09:27,543 - [Nina] And I remember everything happening in slow motion. 162 00:09:28,600 --> 00:09:29,943 Just like, no. 163 00:09:32,910 --> 00:09:35,574 I saw my knee coming up straight towards my face. 164 00:09:35,574 --> 00:09:38,824 (slow motion grunting) 165 00:09:39,750 --> 00:09:43,280 But at the last second I moved my knee out of the way 166 00:09:43,280 --> 00:09:44,603 so I was totally fine. 167 00:09:45,520 --> 00:09:48,420 I realized in know how to fall well. 168 00:09:48,420 --> 00:09:52,760 I could orientate myself in space and control my landing. 169 00:09:52,760 --> 00:09:55,712 I just took a few minutes and did it next go. 170 00:09:55,712 --> 00:09:56,545 Done! 171 00:09:56,545 --> 00:09:57,791 - [James] Nice Nina! 172 00:09:57,791 --> 00:10:00,635 (upbeat music) 173 00:10:00,635 --> 00:10:01,862 - [Colette] Go Nina! 174 00:10:01,862 --> 00:10:04,700 (group cheering and clapping) 175 00:10:04,700 --> 00:10:07,569 - [Nina] I started to seek out these massive boulders. 176 00:10:07,569 --> 00:10:10,840 (slow upbeat music) 177 00:10:10,840 --> 00:10:14,083 Building my mental strength in a step-by-step manner. 178 00:10:15,240 --> 00:10:18,518 Anyone can do it, it just takes practice. 179 00:10:18,518 --> 00:10:20,920 (Nina screaming) 180 00:10:20,920 --> 00:10:23,152 - [Colette] In the last five years 181 00:10:23,152 --> 00:10:26,844 Nina's been going through a process, doing all the steps. 182 00:10:26,844 --> 00:10:28,080 - Yes! 183 00:10:28,080 --> 00:10:30,170 - To get to the level she's at. 184 00:10:30,170 --> 00:10:35,170 But I also think it just takes a certain kind of mentality. 185 00:10:37,120 --> 00:10:39,680 Maybe Nina just has that gene 186 00:10:39,680 --> 00:10:42,293 that makes her a little less fearful. 187 00:10:44,654 --> 00:10:45,487 - Oh my God. 188 00:10:45,487 --> 00:10:48,310 - [Colette] She has this ability to access the risk, 189 00:10:48,310 --> 00:10:52,520 keep a calm mind, and just go for it. 190 00:10:52,520 --> 00:10:55,802 - [James] Oh yeah, come on. 191 00:10:55,802 --> 00:10:57,420 Oh yeah, come on. 192 00:10:57,420 --> 00:10:58,458 Yeah! 193 00:10:58,458 --> 00:10:59,993 - [Colette] Woo! 194 00:10:59,993 --> 00:11:00,826 Yeah! 195 00:11:03,650 --> 00:11:08,650 Two years ago she really took another step up with Ambrosia. 196 00:11:09,886 --> 00:11:11,110 - [Nina] Sup dude? 197 00:11:11,110 --> 00:11:13,270 - I was there with her filming it 198 00:11:13,270 --> 00:11:16,023 and it was kind of terrifying. 199 00:11:16,930 --> 00:11:21,000 - [Nina] On a boulder like Ambrosia it's full commitment. 200 00:11:21,000 --> 00:11:24,620 When you're that high up, there's no falling. 201 00:11:24,620 --> 00:11:26,520 - [Colette] You just kinda hold your breath 202 00:11:26,520 --> 00:11:29,050 and just trust that she wouldn't put herself 203 00:11:29,050 --> 00:11:32,540 in that position unless she was 100% confident 204 00:11:32,540 --> 00:11:33,590 that she could do it. 205 00:11:36,039 --> 00:11:39,206 (slow dramatic music) 206 00:11:41,260 --> 00:11:45,280 - [Nina] When I did Ambrosia it was perfect. 207 00:11:45,280 --> 00:11:48,353 I had no fear, I wasn't thinking about anything. 208 00:11:49,700 --> 00:11:52,070 I just let my body climb. 209 00:11:52,070 --> 00:11:53,389 Yes! 210 00:11:53,389 --> 00:11:54,222 - [James] So good! 211 00:11:54,222 --> 00:11:55,055 - [Nina] Yes! 212 00:11:55,055 --> 00:11:56,850 I got to the top and I felt ecstatic. 213 00:11:56,850 --> 00:11:58,652 It felt like a religious experience. 214 00:11:58,652 --> 00:11:59,485 Yay! 215 00:12:01,235 --> 00:12:02,820 - [James] That's so awesome, yeah! 216 00:12:02,820 --> 00:12:04,860 - [Colette] So sick dude! 217 00:12:04,860 --> 00:12:05,970 - [Nina] James was there 218 00:12:05,970 --> 00:12:08,780 and he definitely had the poker face. 219 00:12:08,780 --> 00:12:10,357 - I'm glad you didn't fall. 220 00:12:10,357 --> 00:12:11,190 - Me too. 221 00:12:12,050 --> 00:12:14,930 He looked calm and collected but I know underneath 222 00:12:14,930 --> 00:12:16,400 he was shaking like a leaf. 223 00:12:16,400 --> 00:12:17,789 - [Colette] Were you nervous? 224 00:12:17,789 --> 00:12:19,406 - Yeah, I kinda wanted to puke. 225 00:12:19,406 --> 00:12:21,470 (Colette laughs) 226 00:12:21,470 --> 00:12:24,430 I mean no, no, not nervous at all. 227 00:12:24,430 --> 00:12:28,670 - [Colette] James understands the consequences of falling. 228 00:12:28,670 --> 00:12:33,670 When he was younger he was free soloing, took a huge fall, 229 00:12:34,740 --> 00:12:36,923 and put himself in the hospital. 230 00:12:38,610 --> 00:12:41,840 - I was climbing in Joshua Tree National Park. 231 00:12:41,840 --> 00:12:44,373 The way backing up, this really cool crack, 232 00:12:45,287 --> 00:12:47,760 and I was about 10 feet from the summit. 233 00:12:47,760 --> 00:12:50,273 I felt myself barn door a little 234 00:12:51,610 --> 00:12:56,053 and then I fell and I fell 70 feet and hit this ledge. 235 00:12:57,780 --> 00:13:02,707 I spent 81 days in the hospital and had eight surgeries. 236 00:13:02,707 --> 00:13:07,707 It took me about a year to go from prone on my back 237 00:13:07,950 --> 00:13:09,383 to climbing again. 238 00:13:12,650 --> 00:13:14,683 Seeing Nina do a lot of these highballs, 239 00:13:15,660 --> 00:13:17,540 I understand what compels her 240 00:13:19,940 --> 00:13:24,100 but I never want her to have an accident like that. 241 00:13:24,100 --> 00:13:26,850 (peaceful music) 242 00:13:29,626 --> 00:13:30,970 When she first told me she wanted to do 243 00:13:30,970 --> 00:13:34,923 Too Big To Flail I wasn't exactly enthusiastic. 244 00:13:35,980 --> 00:13:37,543 It's just more dangerous. 245 00:13:40,670 --> 00:13:42,940 But you don't wanna discourage your partner 246 00:13:42,940 --> 00:13:44,023 from their goals. 247 00:13:45,380 --> 00:13:48,380 It's important just to be supportive. 248 00:13:48,380 --> 00:13:49,980 Gonna pre-make the coffee, yeah. 249 00:13:50,865 --> 00:13:53,570 - That's a keeper right there (laughs). 250 00:13:53,570 --> 00:13:56,260 - If she's gonna do something like this 251 00:13:56,260 --> 00:13:59,798 you can't project your own fears to much. 252 00:13:59,798 --> 00:14:02,310 (dramatic music) 253 00:14:02,310 --> 00:14:04,390 - I'm not sure if I would call Too Big To Flail 254 00:14:04,390 --> 00:14:05,963 the next logical step. 255 00:14:07,250 --> 00:14:10,473 I don't know if any of this is even logical to begin with. 256 00:14:11,540 --> 00:14:13,170 - Okay, you're on belay. 257 00:14:13,170 --> 00:14:15,070 - [Nina] The process began. 258 00:14:15,070 --> 00:14:17,163 Top rope in, check out the moves. 259 00:14:18,315 --> 00:14:22,777 It's slabby, it's insecure, and it's really reachy. 260 00:14:24,750 --> 00:14:28,580 I had seen Honnold on tip-toes reaching between his holds 261 00:14:28,580 --> 00:14:31,148 so I knew that I had to do it in my own way. 262 00:14:31,148 --> 00:14:32,308 - Is the foothold good? 263 00:14:32,308 --> 00:14:33,424 - No. 264 00:14:33,424 --> 00:14:34,674 - [James] Fuck. 265 00:14:38,150 --> 00:14:40,110 - [Nina] A couple of people have fallen 266 00:14:40,110 --> 00:14:41,563 off of this middle section. 267 00:14:42,480 --> 00:14:45,073 This guy Nick took a ground fall. 268 00:14:46,506 --> 00:14:47,339 - Fuck! 269 00:14:47,339 --> 00:14:48,860 - [Nina] Another climber had to jump off 270 00:14:48,860 --> 00:14:50,740 and fractured his ankle 271 00:14:51,940 --> 00:14:55,283 but no one's fallen off the top crux's. 272 00:14:58,380 --> 00:14:59,213 God damn. 273 00:15:01,200 --> 00:15:03,770 - [James] Nina figured out the crux moves 274 00:15:06,293 --> 00:15:09,757 and then on the top section she jumps her feet. 275 00:15:18,100 --> 00:15:21,193 Jumping, 45 feet off the ground without a rope. 276 00:15:22,720 --> 00:15:27,720 That's not ideal but she was very methodical about it. 277 00:15:30,111 --> 00:15:32,870 (piano music) 278 00:15:32,870 --> 00:15:35,970 - [Nina] I worked the climb so many times 279 00:15:37,700 --> 00:15:39,850 just getting it down to a point where I know 280 00:15:39,850 --> 00:15:43,350 that I have the physical capability to crimp on these holds 281 00:15:43,350 --> 00:15:46,481 and to place my feet and then to keep moving upwards 282 00:15:46,481 --> 00:15:50,150 because when I don't have a rope, I won't have a choice, 283 00:15:50,150 --> 00:15:51,963 there's no backing off. 284 00:15:52,835 --> 00:15:55,585 (peaceful music) 285 00:15:57,900 --> 00:16:02,900 I just wanna reach this state of action of my body 286 00:16:03,020 --> 00:16:05,371 and tranquility in my mind. 287 00:16:05,371 --> 00:16:08,288 (slow piano music) 288 00:16:11,020 --> 00:16:12,710 - [James] Today's the day. 289 00:16:12,710 --> 00:16:14,006 She's going for it. 290 00:16:14,006 --> 00:16:16,923 (slow piano music) 291 00:16:17,792 --> 00:16:21,897 I got the pads up but this thing's 50 feet tall 292 00:16:21,897 --> 00:16:25,543 there's not a whole lot we can do to spot her. 293 00:16:27,620 --> 00:16:30,810 I mean, she's up there by herself. 294 00:16:30,810 --> 00:16:33,977 (slow dramatic music) 295 00:16:35,570 --> 00:16:37,873 (Nina deep breathing) 296 00:16:37,873 --> 00:16:41,123 (eerie dramatic music) 297 00:17:03,673 --> 00:17:06,340 (Nina grunting) 298 00:18:09,604 --> 00:18:12,937 (upbeat dramatic music) 299 00:19:29,770 --> 00:19:34,280 - Being in tall places, I love that feeling 300 00:19:34,280 --> 00:19:38,080 of absolute certainty and control and confidence 301 00:19:38,080 --> 00:19:41,290 in a situation that seems totally dangerous. 302 00:19:41,290 --> 00:19:43,080 I'm so psyched! 303 00:19:43,080 --> 00:19:46,817 But I can say with certainty, I've got this. 304 00:19:46,817 --> 00:19:49,817 (slow upbeat music) 305 00:20:20,208 --> 00:20:22,000 (slow country music) 306 00:20:22,000 --> 00:20:24,430 - I talk to people and they say, where do you live? 307 00:20:24,430 --> 00:20:25,960 And I say Emery County and they say, 308 00:20:25,960 --> 00:20:27,360 we don't know where that is. 309 00:20:28,400 --> 00:20:32,123 Well it's in southeast, central Utah. 310 00:20:32,980 --> 00:20:34,380 - Middle of nowhere. 311 00:20:35,420 --> 00:20:38,363 Things haven't changed for a long time around here. 312 00:20:40,050 --> 00:20:43,233 Until the climbers started showing up in Joes Valley. 313 00:20:44,288 --> 00:20:47,205 (slow banjo music) 314 00:20:52,522 --> 00:20:54,630 (upbeat music) 315 00:20:54,630 --> 00:20:56,920 - Our crew of climbers came out of Salt Lake City 316 00:20:56,920 --> 00:20:58,210 in the mid 90's. 317 00:20:58,210 --> 00:20:59,820 That generation of climber, in that era, 318 00:20:59,820 --> 00:21:02,180 bouldering was the new thing. 319 00:21:02,180 --> 00:21:04,620 - There was no harnesses, there was no rope, 320 00:21:04,620 --> 00:21:07,820 this was a new style of what climbing could be. 321 00:21:07,820 --> 00:21:08,841 - Come on! 322 00:21:08,841 --> 00:21:10,870 - We were completely obsessed with our little world 323 00:21:10,870 --> 00:21:12,460 of burning each other off 324 00:21:12,460 --> 00:21:14,890 and trying to get as strong as possible. 325 00:21:14,890 --> 00:21:17,895 - The culture of it was young, punk rock, 326 00:21:17,895 --> 00:21:20,770 fuck everything we're just gonna go do what we want. 327 00:21:20,770 --> 00:21:23,900 Climbing back then, it was more on the fringe. 328 00:21:23,900 --> 00:21:25,510 - I think we were definitely outsiders. 329 00:21:25,510 --> 00:21:28,333 We were dallying from what's going on in the real world, 330 00:21:29,190 --> 00:21:30,390 on the road all the time. 331 00:21:30,390 --> 00:21:32,700 - We were fiending for a new rock. 332 00:21:32,700 --> 00:21:34,490 So when somebody says hey there's great boulders 333 00:21:34,490 --> 00:21:36,935 two and a half hours away from Salt Lake, let's go. 334 00:21:36,935 --> 00:21:37,970 - Oh my God, there's a bird. 335 00:21:37,970 --> 00:21:42,001 - We drove to Joes Valley, just like holy crap. 336 00:21:42,001 --> 00:21:44,478 (dramatic music) 337 00:21:44,478 --> 00:21:47,200 There's literally tens of thousands of boulders. 338 00:21:47,200 --> 00:21:49,110 This has everything we've ever looked for 339 00:21:49,110 --> 00:21:51,393 in a bouldering area, like this is sick. 340 00:21:52,860 --> 00:21:53,810 - There were suddenly these like 341 00:21:53,810 --> 00:21:55,703 striking black streak boulders. 342 00:21:56,640 --> 00:22:00,450 There was slab bouldering, steep bouldering, 343 00:22:00,450 --> 00:22:01,573 super high bouldering. 344 00:22:03,560 --> 00:22:05,760 - The Wild West mentallity of let's just go 345 00:22:05,760 --> 00:22:08,650 just around that corner and see what's over there. 346 00:22:08,650 --> 00:22:11,282 - The more you hike, the more you're gonna find-- 347 00:22:11,282 --> 00:22:12,524 - Nice! 348 00:22:12,524 --> 00:22:13,560 Nice. 349 00:22:13,560 --> 00:22:16,042 - Classic climbing, then you just come here, 350 00:22:16,042 --> 00:22:17,250 and it was awesome. 351 00:22:17,250 --> 00:22:19,479 (dramatic music) 352 00:22:19,479 --> 00:22:23,896 - Hold on (grunts in pain). 353 00:22:26,830 --> 00:22:28,610 - Steven, he was really young, 354 00:22:28,610 --> 00:22:30,672 really friggin strong. 355 00:22:30,672 --> 00:22:33,696 (Steven screaming in pain) 356 00:22:33,696 --> 00:22:34,529 - I want my mommy. 357 00:22:34,529 --> 00:22:35,870 Can't put that in the video. 358 00:22:35,870 --> 00:22:37,590 - Steven Jeffrey, he went down to Joes Valley 359 00:22:37,590 --> 00:22:40,910 and basically found his personal canvas. 360 00:22:40,910 --> 00:22:43,010 He put up some amazing problems. 361 00:22:43,010 --> 00:22:46,130 - So it's been, let's see, 25 years right? 362 00:22:46,130 --> 00:22:47,291 35 years? 363 00:22:47,291 --> 00:22:48,457 (laughs) 25 years-- 364 00:22:49,710 --> 00:22:53,150 I've been coming to Joes for over the last 20 years. 365 00:22:53,150 --> 00:22:56,320 I was 16, 17 years old. 366 00:22:56,320 --> 00:23:00,050 I would come down in my RV, kind of like runaway style kid 367 00:23:00,050 --> 00:23:02,153 going climbing on these rocks. 368 00:23:03,320 --> 00:23:04,840 It was just complete freedom 369 00:23:07,600 --> 00:23:11,370 but it felt like an alien place in a way. 370 00:23:11,370 --> 00:23:15,100 Joes Valley sits basically in the dead middle of Utah. 371 00:23:15,100 --> 00:23:18,970 This rural area, it would almost make me anxious 372 00:23:18,970 --> 00:23:19,860 sometimes when I come out here 373 00:23:19,860 --> 00:23:22,077 'cause I was this naive kid from the city 374 00:23:22,077 --> 00:23:23,820 and here was a whole different world. 375 00:23:23,820 --> 00:23:25,593 It was different culture down here. 376 00:23:26,570 --> 00:23:29,047 There was small town next to Joes Valley.` 377 00:23:29,940 --> 00:23:32,010 I was actually scared to even go in the grocery store 378 00:23:32,010 --> 00:23:34,050 to buy supplies 'cause it's like, 379 00:23:34,050 --> 00:23:36,053 man these are mean muggin people. 380 00:23:36,970 --> 00:23:38,460 - Yeah check this out. 381 00:23:38,460 --> 00:23:39,920 I remember going to a bar down there, 382 00:23:39,920 --> 00:23:41,527 the video camera dressed like a climber. 383 00:23:41,527 --> 00:23:43,670 one of the bartenders just shaking her hat at us 384 00:23:43,670 --> 00:23:45,032 and pointing at the door. 385 00:23:45,032 --> 00:23:45,865 - [Bar Patron] Get this motherfucker right here 386 00:23:45,865 --> 00:23:47,539 to shut the video camera off. 387 00:23:47,539 --> 00:23:48,720 - It wasn't like they didn't like us, 388 00:23:48,720 --> 00:23:50,346 it just they knew we weren't gonna fit in, 389 00:23:50,346 --> 00:23:52,920 it's not a safe place for everybody. 390 00:23:52,920 --> 00:23:54,870 When you go down there, you're in their country. 391 00:23:54,870 --> 00:23:56,970 - I remember camping the bottom of the left fork 392 00:23:56,970 --> 00:23:58,907 and some dudes in a big giant truck pull up 393 00:23:58,907 --> 00:24:00,530 and they're like hey you fucking hippies 394 00:24:00,530 --> 00:24:02,180 and start shooting a bunch of bullets 395 00:24:02,180 --> 00:24:05,120 over the top of our tents and we're just like, ah. 396 00:24:05,120 --> 00:24:07,608 - What the fuck are you doing? 397 00:24:07,608 --> 00:24:08,890 - We're camping here man. 398 00:24:08,890 --> 00:24:11,690 - The locals, they didn't know who we were 399 00:24:11,690 --> 00:24:13,555 and what we were doing. 400 00:24:13,555 --> 00:24:16,138 (upbeat music) 401 00:24:16,980 --> 00:24:19,610 - I can remember seeing the strange guys 402 00:24:19,610 --> 00:24:21,383 with the mattresses on their back. 403 00:24:23,042 --> 00:24:25,318 And I'm thinking, what in the world? 404 00:24:25,318 --> 00:24:26,160 (grunts) 405 00:24:26,160 --> 00:24:27,730 - They're doing what? 406 00:24:27,730 --> 00:24:29,680 They're climbing on our rocks (laughs)? 407 00:24:31,940 --> 00:24:33,240 - I mean I just couldn't imagine 408 00:24:33,240 --> 00:24:36,000 that being anything he'd really wanna do. 409 00:24:36,000 --> 00:24:37,729 - Ow, fuck. 410 00:24:37,729 --> 00:24:39,080 Fucking ow. 411 00:24:39,080 --> 00:24:42,230 - Being an outsider and looking at bouldering 412 00:24:42,230 --> 00:24:43,893 just looks really weird. 413 00:24:43,893 --> 00:24:46,476 (upbeat music) 414 00:24:47,960 --> 00:24:49,950 - They all wanna climb up the hardest part 415 00:24:49,950 --> 00:24:52,440 of this 12 foot rock. 416 00:24:52,440 --> 00:24:53,450 - Ow! 417 00:24:53,450 --> 00:24:54,807 - It was just-- 418 00:24:54,807 --> 00:24:55,640 - Ow! 419 00:24:59,981 --> 00:25:00,814 - You okay? 420 00:25:00,814 --> 00:25:01,647 - Yeah, I'm good. 421 00:25:01,647 --> 00:25:02,480 - My first thoughts? 422 00:25:02,480 --> 00:25:03,313 They're crazy. 423 00:25:03,313 --> 00:25:05,860 (screams and barks) 424 00:25:05,860 --> 00:25:07,190 - In my head I kept thinking, 425 00:25:07,190 --> 00:25:10,473 do you not have rocks where you live? 426 00:25:11,750 --> 00:25:15,270 - Here in Emery County, this is a small community. 427 00:25:15,270 --> 00:25:17,600 Everybody kind of knows each other. 428 00:25:17,600 --> 00:25:21,650 We're cowboys and coal miners and power plant folks. 429 00:25:21,650 --> 00:25:23,980 - We're quite a conservative group. 430 00:25:23,980 --> 00:25:27,910 - We are Mormons so we are very, very family oriented. 431 00:25:27,910 --> 00:25:31,500 - Yeah we're very, very churchy here I guess you could say. 432 00:25:31,500 --> 00:25:33,723 - We all try to protect our own. 433 00:25:36,020 --> 00:25:39,140 So when we saw the rock climbers coming to the area 434 00:25:40,657 --> 00:25:43,380 it was like hey, we don't know who these people are. 435 00:25:43,380 --> 00:25:46,040 - I was a manager at Food Ranch here in Orangeville. 436 00:25:46,040 --> 00:25:48,590 - Food Ranch the hot spot for the climbers. 437 00:25:48,590 --> 00:25:49,423 So this is where I come 438 00:25:49,423 --> 00:25:51,740 whenever I have a serious case of the munchies. 439 00:25:51,740 --> 00:25:55,470 - The owner was scared, he didn't know why they were here. 440 00:25:55,470 --> 00:25:57,760 They dressed a little different, they had the dreads, 441 00:25:57,760 --> 00:26:00,390 the man buns, you know we knew that they were showering 442 00:26:00,390 --> 00:26:01,860 in our bathrooms 'cause the bathroom floor 443 00:26:01,860 --> 00:26:03,483 would be wet, little smelly. 444 00:26:04,580 --> 00:26:07,410 - At Food Ranch I'd be hanging out there with my friends 445 00:26:07,410 --> 00:26:10,980 and these people would walk in and they look like vagabonds. 446 00:26:10,980 --> 00:26:14,173 Old dirty clothes like they'd been out walking in the mud. 447 00:26:15,210 --> 00:26:19,003 Just kind of gross, I feel so bad (laughs). 448 00:26:19,003 --> 00:26:22,490 - Especially back then, the climbers were, 449 00:26:22,490 --> 00:26:24,870 I mean the dirtbag was the real deal you know, 450 00:26:24,870 --> 00:26:28,410 like your down jacket was soiled. 451 00:26:28,410 --> 00:26:30,160 You look like a homeless person. 452 00:26:30,160 --> 00:26:31,920 - I don't mean this in no bad way 453 00:26:31,920 --> 00:26:35,020 but they reminded me of back in the 70's, 454 00:26:35,020 --> 00:26:37,823 the hippies, just free-spirited people. 455 00:26:37,823 --> 00:26:38,656 - Yeah! 456 00:26:38,656 --> 00:26:41,350 - You can tell the climbers just by, 457 00:26:41,350 --> 00:26:44,870 they look a little disheveled and tired. 458 00:26:44,870 --> 00:26:46,280 In fact we've heard a lot of climbers 459 00:26:46,280 --> 00:26:47,510 call themselves dirt baggers. 460 00:26:47,510 --> 00:26:49,380 - Yeah, we're scared to say that 461 00:26:49,380 --> 00:26:52,030 because we didn't ever want to offend anybody 462 00:26:52,030 --> 00:26:55,429 but they'll tell us, we're dirt baggers. 463 00:26:55,429 --> 00:27:00,250 - And so they're here, where are they coming from? 464 00:27:00,250 --> 00:27:01,970 And coming into our little town. 465 00:27:01,970 --> 00:27:04,410 - There were a lot of people talking, in fact, 466 00:27:04,410 --> 00:27:06,310 there was a lot of concern. 467 00:27:06,310 --> 00:27:08,440 Are these guys going to kidnap our kids? 468 00:27:08,440 --> 00:27:10,680 - My mom was always like, Cambrie stay away 469 00:27:10,680 --> 00:27:13,550 from those people they're probably weirdos. 470 00:27:13,550 --> 00:27:15,610 - Yeah I wasn't exactly the poster boy 471 00:27:15,610 --> 00:27:18,127 for the Mormon community. 472 00:27:18,127 --> 00:27:20,420 My style, hey what's happening? 473 00:27:20,420 --> 00:27:23,273 I was Mad Max versus Flea. 474 00:27:24,418 --> 00:27:26,900 (screams) 475 00:27:26,900 --> 00:27:29,330 My van always had some sort of skull. 476 00:27:29,330 --> 00:27:32,360 The bone shifter, got my little friend hanging here, 477 00:27:32,360 --> 00:27:34,470 here's been out in the sun a little bit to long. 478 00:27:34,470 --> 00:27:35,363 Water fountain. 479 00:27:36,970 --> 00:27:38,790 - Whenever Jason stopped at a gas station 480 00:27:38,790 --> 00:27:41,358 he would put in six dollars and 66 cents of gas 481 00:27:41,358 --> 00:27:42,743 just to be weird. 482 00:27:44,240 --> 00:27:46,820 - Poster boy for being a freak. 483 00:27:46,820 --> 00:27:50,763 - We've heard that there's some goofy mother fucker around. 484 00:27:52,890 --> 00:27:56,366 - I wanted to make people think, confuse them, 485 00:27:56,366 --> 00:27:58,913 and I think it succeeded to come extent. 486 00:28:00,206 --> 00:28:02,230 (birds chirping) 487 00:28:02,230 --> 00:28:04,520 - For years there was just a small group of people 488 00:28:04,520 --> 00:28:07,010 climbing on the rocks in Joes Valley 489 00:28:07,010 --> 00:28:10,310 but climbing areas go through changes. 490 00:28:10,310 --> 00:28:12,040 The first turning point of Joes 491 00:28:12,040 --> 00:28:14,490 was descent of the Black Lung from Ben Moon. 492 00:28:14,490 --> 00:28:15,890 - Ben Moon was one of the most famous 493 00:28:15,890 --> 00:28:17,670 climbers in the world. 494 00:28:17,670 --> 00:28:20,470 - He came over from England to Joes Valley. 495 00:28:20,470 --> 00:28:22,280 He was trying an undone project. 496 00:28:22,280 --> 00:28:24,650 It was absolutely gorgeous. 497 00:28:24,650 --> 00:28:25,483 - Nice. 498 00:28:25,483 --> 00:28:29,070 - Technical, powerful, really hard. 499 00:28:29,070 --> 00:28:29,910 At the time it could have been 500 00:28:29,910 --> 00:28:31,868 the hardest boulder problem in the world . 501 00:28:31,868 --> 00:28:34,620 (screams in pain) 502 00:28:34,620 --> 00:28:36,310 - It became this epic battle 503 00:28:36,310 --> 00:28:38,080 Ben had with the problem. 504 00:28:38,080 --> 00:28:39,740 - Come on Ben you dozy fuck. 505 00:28:40,663 --> 00:28:41,674 (screams in pain) 506 00:28:41,674 --> 00:28:42,507 Oh fuck. 507 00:28:42,507 --> 00:28:45,447 - I was thinking, I hope no locals can here us out here. 508 00:28:45,447 --> 00:28:46,363 Fuck. 509 00:28:47,563 --> 00:28:50,063 Piss off snow you fucking wanker. 510 00:28:51,013 --> 00:28:53,763 (dramatic drums) 511 00:28:57,540 --> 00:28:58,373 - Nice. 512 00:28:58,373 --> 00:29:00,210 - When Ben did Black Lung, 513 00:29:00,210 --> 00:29:01,990 I mean this is like the perfect lining 514 00:29:01,990 --> 00:29:03,250 in a developing area. 515 00:29:03,250 --> 00:29:06,180 - Fucking God damn it man, I got that perfect. 516 00:29:06,180 --> 00:29:07,644 - It put Joes on the map. 517 00:29:07,644 --> 00:29:09,190 - Published in all the magazines 518 00:29:09,190 --> 00:29:10,570 throughout the world. 519 00:29:10,570 --> 00:29:13,500 You'd pick up Grimper in France and there's a picture of Ben 520 00:29:13,500 --> 00:29:15,510 climbing this iconic boulder problem. 521 00:29:15,510 --> 00:29:18,083 So now everyone wants to come to Joes Valley. 522 00:29:19,540 --> 00:29:23,054 - The climbing population started growing rapidly. 523 00:29:23,054 --> 00:29:24,500 - All of a sudden there's a thousand people 524 00:29:24,500 --> 00:29:25,540 going over a weekend. 525 00:29:25,540 --> 00:29:28,290 Sprinter vans just bombarding up the canyon. 526 00:29:28,290 --> 00:29:30,760 - Tents all over the side of the road. 527 00:29:30,760 --> 00:29:32,580 - It's an invasion of the entire world 528 00:29:32,580 --> 00:29:33,950 on this little place. 529 00:29:33,950 --> 00:29:35,910 - I can understand locals being like, 530 00:29:35,910 --> 00:29:37,700 oh it's a nuisance. 531 00:29:37,700 --> 00:29:40,360 - Locals worried about to many people here, 532 00:29:40,360 --> 00:29:42,120 it was the us against them type deal 533 00:29:42,120 --> 00:29:44,560 and they're coming into our towns and our communities. 534 00:29:44,560 --> 00:29:47,830 - A lot of townspeople really was kind of against 535 00:29:47,830 --> 00:29:50,890 the climbers coming in and only wanted to keep them out. 536 00:29:50,890 --> 00:29:53,610 - Two climbers were sitting on the lawn at the library 537 00:29:53,610 --> 00:29:55,200 and got the cops call on them. 538 00:29:55,200 --> 00:29:57,870 - Honestly we thought we were being invaded 539 00:29:57,870 --> 00:29:59,935 by a bunch of potheads. 540 00:29:59,935 --> 00:30:01,580 (police siren) 541 00:30:01,580 --> 00:30:03,290 We found a little bit of pot on, 542 00:30:03,290 --> 00:30:06,009 pretty much everyone we did stop so. 543 00:30:06,009 --> 00:30:08,600 - There was definitely tension building. 544 00:30:08,600 --> 00:30:09,433 - Get a job! 545 00:30:11,590 --> 00:30:13,280 - I was worried that climbing access 546 00:30:13,280 --> 00:30:16,090 could be taken away or restricted from us 547 00:30:16,090 --> 00:30:18,480 because in a lot of areas across the United States 548 00:30:18,480 --> 00:30:21,620 people turn against climbing and even ban it 549 00:30:21,620 --> 00:30:23,923 and this one is just to good to lose. 550 00:30:24,870 --> 00:30:27,880 - There was this moment of, we need to connect 551 00:30:27,880 --> 00:30:30,000 before it explodes. 552 00:30:30,000 --> 00:30:32,890 So one day, I was at the Food Ranch 553 00:30:32,890 --> 00:30:36,413 and there was a sign saying city clean up. 554 00:30:37,380 --> 00:30:39,930 It was like perfect, let's go to the city clean up. 555 00:30:41,850 --> 00:30:43,500 So we show up in the morning 556 00:30:43,500 --> 00:30:47,060 and it's a bunch of ladies preparing food. 557 00:30:47,060 --> 00:30:50,660 - We look over and there's these 558 00:30:50,660 --> 00:30:53,050 different people over there. 559 00:30:53,050 --> 00:30:55,180 They look a little bit like bums, 560 00:30:55,180 --> 00:30:57,570 you think well maybe they're homeless 561 00:30:57,570 --> 00:30:59,753 and then they got up and walked over to us. 562 00:31:02,020 --> 00:31:04,180 - We're here for the clean up, when does it start? 563 00:31:04,180 --> 00:31:06,650 And the four ladies like, oh thank God we were just here 564 00:31:06,650 --> 00:31:08,450 thinking you needed food. 565 00:31:08,450 --> 00:31:12,510 - Oh my words, we were so excited we said, are you serious? 566 00:31:12,510 --> 00:31:14,203 You're here to help us? 567 00:31:15,350 --> 00:31:20,350 We were just amazed that outsiders would come in 568 00:31:20,400 --> 00:31:22,910 and give something to our community. 569 00:31:22,910 --> 00:31:25,476 - The classic part was, here I am shoveling on Main Street, 570 00:31:25,476 --> 00:31:27,680 it's a Saturday, all my friends from Salt Lake 571 00:31:27,680 --> 00:31:30,850 are coming to climb and they see me and they're like, 572 00:31:30,850 --> 00:31:32,080 what did you get arrested in town? 573 00:31:32,080 --> 00:31:34,240 What are you doing shoveling the sidewalk? 574 00:31:34,240 --> 00:31:36,884 And I'm like, city clean up day, I'm helping out. 575 00:31:36,884 --> 00:31:38,950 (truck engine passing by) 576 00:31:38,950 --> 00:31:40,840 - After that I really started thinking 577 00:31:40,840 --> 00:31:43,340 about how climbers could help Emery County grow 578 00:31:45,090 --> 00:31:46,790 because the reality was this area 579 00:31:46,790 --> 00:31:48,433 had fallen on pretty hard times. 580 00:31:49,760 --> 00:31:54,720 - In Emery County we've had hay days and we've had slumps. 581 00:31:54,720 --> 00:31:59,083 Our major economic driver has always been coal. 582 00:32:00,780 --> 00:32:05,430 40 years ago there was 20 something mines in Emery County, 583 00:32:05,430 --> 00:32:09,970 now we have three running mines so it's not the job provider 584 00:32:09,970 --> 00:32:11,788 that it used to be. 585 00:32:11,788 --> 00:32:13,280 - Yeah the mines shutting down 586 00:32:13,280 --> 00:32:15,993 definitely has been a hardship. 587 00:32:16,929 --> 00:32:19,070 A lot of people had to move. 588 00:32:19,070 --> 00:32:21,230 - The power plants won't last forever 589 00:32:21,230 --> 00:32:23,340 so we need to figure out who we are 590 00:32:23,340 --> 00:32:26,840 and what we wanna become in the next 20 years. 591 00:32:26,840 --> 00:32:28,700 - There's a lot of concern that Emery County 592 00:32:28,700 --> 00:32:30,350 will become a ghost town someday. 593 00:32:31,840 --> 00:32:34,850 - This place was struggling, they just didn't know 594 00:32:34,850 --> 00:32:37,844 they were sitting on another great resource. 595 00:32:37,844 --> 00:32:39,547 - When the locals, like when we walk around 596 00:32:39,547 --> 00:32:42,148 we see these lines of stone and we're just like, 597 00:32:42,148 --> 00:32:44,073 oh my gosh, this is incredible. 598 00:32:44,073 --> 00:32:45,600 I was asked to give a presentation 599 00:32:45,600 --> 00:32:48,620 to the City Council about bouldering. 600 00:32:48,620 --> 00:32:53,010 People asked me, those things on your back, what is it? 601 00:32:53,010 --> 00:32:55,396 One local thought you climbed with it on your back 602 00:32:55,396 --> 00:32:58,573 and so when you fell you just jumped onto your back. 603 00:33:00,170 --> 00:33:02,760 I put up a photo of a Sprinter van and they all chuckled, 604 00:33:02,760 --> 00:33:04,870 oh yeah we see those all the time. 605 00:33:04,870 --> 00:33:07,640 The next photo is the inside of the Sprinter remodeled 606 00:33:07,640 --> 00:33:10,070 and how much all this cost. 607 00:33:10,070 --> 00:33:14,250 Climbing shoes are a $175, crash pads are $200. 608 00:33:14,250 --> 00:33:16,250 I was like, believe it or not these people 609 00:33:16,250 --> 00:33:19,700 living in the dirt, have money and spend it right? 610 00:33:19,700 --> 00:33:23,097 - So then people were saying that everyone's a millionaire 611 00:33:23,097 --> 00:33:25,000 who's a rock climber. 612 00:33:25,000 --> 00:33:27,370 I was like, these people are millionaires? 613 00:33:27,370 --> 00:33:30,500 I'm very confused as to why they're out here 614 00:33:30,500 --> 00:33:31,920 in Emery County instead of traveling 615 00:33:31,920 --> 00:33:33,100 to like Paris and stuff. 616 00:33:33,100 --> 00:33:35,120 - We left town and came back the next weekend 617 00:33:35,120 --> 00:33:38,260 and there's sign's saying we love rock climbers. 618 00:33:38,260 --> 00:33:41,400 Food Ranch was the first to catch on to the idea. 619 00:33:41,400 --> 00:33:42,520 Go in there and next thing you know 620 00:33:42,520 --> 00:33:46,053 there's chalk and crash pads. 621 00:33:47,160 --> 00:33:50,010 - This is the weirdest story but there was an empty bottle 622 00:33:50,010 --> 00:33:51,760 next to the dumpster at Food Ranch. 623 00:33:52,600 --> 00:33:56,130 You opened the lid, smelled it, like phew. 624 00:33:56,130 --> 00:33:58,140 We kept thinking, what is this? 625 00:33:58,140 --> 00:33:59,357 We started talking to a climber 626 00:33:59,357 --> 00:34:02,793 and he explained all about the probiotics and kombucha. 627 00:34:04,130 --> 00:34:06,610 They says if you carry it, we'll buy it. 628 00:34:06,610 --> 00:34:09,443 Started carrying it in every flavor that you could imagine. 629 00:34:10,340 --> 00:34:13,350 - The big final connection for rock climber to town 630 00:34:13,350 --> 00:34:16,320 was this idea of a festival. 631 00:34:16,320 --> 00:34:19,410 So it started out with me and my girlfriend Adriana, 632 00:34:19,410 --> 00:34:22,150 we were talking with some locals about it. 633 00:34:22,150 --> 00:34:23,690 - The whole concept for the festival, 634 00:34:23,690 --> 00:34:26,250 it's about bringing the two communities together, 635 00:34:26,250 --> 00:34:27,763 stepping outside your bubble. 636 00:34:29,370 --> 00:34:30,500 - Locals coming together 637 00:34:30,500 --> 00:34:33,430 with a bunch of crazy rock climbers. 638 00:34:33,430 --> 00:34:36,091 We weren't sure if it was gonna work out. 639 00:34:36,091 --> 00:34:38,275 - [Announcer] Hotdogs, get your hotdogs! 640 00:34:38,275 --> 00:34:41,026 Ketchup, mustard, relish, get your fixen's. 641 00:34:41,026 --> 00:34:43,268 (crown talking) 642 00:34:43,268 --> 00:34:45,140 - We're gonna try to get to know each other better. 643 00:34:45,140 --> 00:34:48,167 - These are the best chili dogs I've ever ate. 644 00:34:49,440 --> 00:34:52,403 - Or even maybe learn some stuff in the process. 645 00:34:53,690 --> 00:34:55,200 - All right everyone let's get ready, 646 00:34:55,200 --> 00:34:56,980 let's get our crash pads and everything and let's head out 647 00:34:56,980 --> 00:34:58,587 to these boulders over here okay. 648 00:34:58,587 --> 00:35:00,400 (upbeat music) 649 00:35:00,400 --> 00:35:03,650 We had all kinds of folks from town come out. 650 00:35:03,650 --> 00:35:06,563 People who'd never even seen or worn climbing shoes, 651 00:35:07,980 --> 00:35:09,730 ascend their first boulder problem. 652 00:35:11,730 --> 00:35:14,330 - My name is Brooklynn Potter, I'm Miss Emery County. 653 00:35:14,330 --> 00:35:17,220 This is so much fun, I'm having a ball, 654 00:35:17,220 --> 00:35:19,720 I've tried new shoes on, that's great. 655 00:35:19,720 --> 00:35:20,553 Oh my goodness. 656 00:35:24,439 --> 00:35:25,911 (group cheering) 657 00:35:25,911 --> 00:35:26,800 - You actually need to move your hips this way. 658 00:35:26,800 --> 00:35:29,490 - The festival was my first time rock climbing. 659 00:35:29,490 --> 00:35:31,860 I was terrified, I'm so scared of heights. 660 00:35:31,860 --> 00:35:33,720 - Retreat and then just gonna take the fall. 661 00:35:33,720 --> 00:35:34,823 - It was daunting. 662 00:35:36,120 --> 00:35:38,039 - Once you step up you'll feel a lot better. 663 00:35:38,039 --> 00:35:39,580 - Fudgy heck yeah. 664 00:35:39,580 --> 00:35:41,453 After that I was hooked. 665 00:35:42,380 --> 00:35:43,777 I got the bug bad (laughs). 666 00:35:46,193 --> 00:35:47,764 (crowd cheering) 667 00:35:47,764 --> 00:35:48,677 - Is this the line? 668 00:35:48,677 --> 00:35:49,540 - No, it's, jump right in. 669 00:35:49,540 --> 00:35:51,180 - Okay if you're gonna get a picture, 670 00:35:51,180 --> 00:35:52,430 you better friggin hurry. 671 00:35:53,371 --> 00:35:56,410 When I was their age, I would have got rid 672 00:35:56,410 --> 00:35:58,563 of all my fancy trucks and stuff. 673 00:36:01,790 --> 00:36:04,390 I coulda just come up here with one of them pads. 674 00:36:04,390 --> 00:36:07,140 (crowd cheering) 675 00:36:07,990 --> 00:36:09,163 You guys have fun. 676 00:36:12,120 --> 00:36:15,580 - We never wanted it to be just a climbing festival. 677 00:36:15,580 --> 00:36:17,760 We wanna show climbers from all around the world 678 00:36:17,760 --> 00:36:19,840 the local culture and flavor around here. 679 00:36:19,840 --> 00:36:20,673 - Yeah! 680 00:36:21,640 --> 00:36:23,910 - So they can kinda understand our way of life 681 00:36:23,910 --> 00:36:26,380 and why we love it so much here. 682 00:36:26,380 --> 00:36:29,898 - We started doin a clinic on how to make jerky. 683 00:36:29,898 --> 00:36:31,530 And you just wanna, real light, 684 00:36:31,530 --> 00:36:33,490 pepper makes everything better. 685 00:36:33,490 --> 00:36:36,420 - The jerky was so good last time that I'm back, 686 00:36:36,420 --> 00:36:38,377 even though I am a vegetarian. 687 00:36:39,570 --> 00:36:40,860 - I hope they keep coming back 688 00:36:40,860 --> 00:36:43,420 and look forward to meeting a whole bunch more. 689 00:36:43,420 --> 00:36:45,340 (crowd laughing) 690 00:36:45,340 --> 00:36:47,680 - For the grand finale of the festival, 691 00:36:47,680 --> 00:36:49,573 we had something special in mind. 692 00:36:49,573 --> 00:36:51,480 (National anthem playing) 693 00:36:51,480 --> 00:36:53,410 - They said, we're gonna do a rodeo. 694 00:36:53,410 --> 00:36:54,710 - [Commentator] Showing off their riding skills 695 00:36:54,710 --> 00:36:58,026 while the rock climbers compete in a number of fun contests. 696 00:36:58,026 --> 00:37:01,943 (commentator speaking faintly) 697 00:37:04,480 --> 00:37:06,143 (crowd cheering) 698 00:37:06,143 --> 00:37:09,570 - The rock climbers getting on steers, 699 00:37:09,570 --> 00:37:11,580 oh this is such a bad idea. 700 00:37:11,580 --> 00:37:14,650 The first boulderer I seen do it walked out in flip flops. 701 00:37:14,650 --> 00:37:16,500 - I'm wearing sandals this is unfair. 702 00:37:18,492 --> 00:37:20,081 - I thought, it's not gonna end well. 703 00:37:20,081 --> 00:37:22,473 - [Commentator] Let's get out and let's make some noise-- 704 00:37:22,473 --> 00:37:26,598 (commentator speaking covered by crowd cheering) 705 00:37:26,598 --> 00:37:27,431 Oh! 706 00:37:27,431 --> 00:37:28,507 No points. 707 00:37:28,507 --> 00:37:31,283 - The locals, they think these guys are nuts. 708 00:37:31,283 --> 00:37:35,433 (commentator speaking faintly) 709 00:37:35,433 --> 00:37:38,183 (crowd cheering) 710 00:37:40,137 --> 00:37:43,366 But it's one of the best events of the bouldering festival. 711 00:37:43,366 --> 00:37:45,689 - [Commentator] Oh! 712 00:37:45,689 --> 00:37:47,161 (crowd cheering) 713 00:37:47,161 --> 00:37:49,266 He's hanging on, squeezing those brakes. 714 00:37:49,266 --> 00:37:52,016 (crowd cheering) 715 00:38:00,595 --> 00:38:03,780 - The minute he opens his mouth he's lyin. 716 00:38:03,780 --> 00:38:06,800 - We're really glad to have you guys in the county 717 00:38:06,800 --> 00:38:09,830 at least somebody wants to come here. 718 00:38:09,830 --> 00:38:12,230 - You guys all come from anywhere you wanna come, 719 00:38:12,230 --> 00:38:14,041 we love bouldering. 720 00:38:14,041 --> 00:38:16,460 I hang on with these two fingers. 721 00:38:16,460 --> 00:38:17,570 - He fell off a boulder. 722 00:38:17,570 --> 00:38:18,967 - There's not a boulder I can't climb. 723 00:38:18,967 --> 00:38:21,680 - No, he fell off a boulder and hurt his shoulder. 724 00:38:21,680 --> 00:38:22,800 - Hit his shoulder. 725 00:38:22,800 --> 00:38:23,873 - Would you shut up. 726 00:38:26,620 --> 00:38:29,643 - Now climbing is part of town. 727 00:38:30,865 --> 00:38:34,343 The climbers fit in, they're welcomed in here. 728 00:38:35,290 --> 00:38:38,258 That change over, the acceptance of the climbing culture, 729 00:38:38,258 --> 00:38:41,250 its cool man, like there's a coffee shop now. 730 00:38:41,250 --> 00:38:45,870 - We grew up LDS Mormons and coffee and tea, 731 00:38:45,870 --> 00:38:48,030 you don't drink 'em. 732 00:38:48,030 --> 00:38:49,660 People would ask us, 733 00:38:49,660 --> 00:38:51,470 do you know where we could get a good cup of coffee? 734 00:38:51,470 --> 00:38:53,070 And we would always tell them, you have to go to Price, 735 00:38:53,070 --> 00:38:55,460 which is 30 miles north. 736 00:38:55,460 --> 00:38:57,990 We transformed the front room of our house 737 00:38:57,990 --> 00:39:01,193 into a little coffee shop for the climbers around here. 738 00:39:02,360 --> 00:39:03,880 They just keep coming back. 739 00:39:03,880 --> 00:39:06,470 - My favorite part is you become friends 740 00:39:06,470 --> 00:39:08,550 with people from all over the world. 741 00:39:08,550 --> 00:39:10,413 - I'm from Ecuador, got amazing people here 742 00:39:10,413 --> 00:39:12,236 that is really friendly. 743 00:39:12,236 --> 00:39:14,503 - Hola, I'm from Buenos Aires, Argentina. 744 00:39:14,503 --> 00:39:15,610 - Valencia, Espana. 745 00:39:15,610 --> 00:39:17,830 - My name is Christer, I'm from Norway. 746 00:39:17,830 --> 00:39:18,840 - Marseille, France. 747 00:39:18,840 --> 00:39:20,670 We had a good coffee and-- 748 00:39:20,670 --> 00:39:21,940 - Little tiny Orangeville, 749 00:39:21,940 --> 00:39:24,506 no name country town in the middle of no where. 750 00:39:24,506 --> 00:39:26,340 Tens of thousands of people come here, 751 00:39:26,340 --> 00:39:28,440 we counted 71 countries. 752 00:39:28,440 --> 00:39:30,750 (upbeat music) 753 00:39:30,750 --> 00:39:33,350 - It's really nice to have people from around the country 754 00:39:33,350 --> 00:39:36,810 and around the world bring that diversity into our community 755 00:39:36,810 --> 00:39:38,093 with different ideas. 756 00:39:39,240 --> 00:39:43,319 The rock climbers have made Emery County a better place. 757 00:39:43,319 --> 00:39:44,734 - You guys climbers? 758 00:39:44,734 --> 00:39:45,760 - [Cameraman] Yeah. 759 00:39:45,760 --> 00:39:49,610 - The people of our community, they know that our future's 760 00:39:49,610 --> 00:39:51,850 in bouldering, our future's in tourism. 761 00:39:51,850 --> 00:39:53,770 - I think one of the great things that's happened 762 00:39:53,770 --> 00:39:55,830 is that the local commissioners have gotten 763 00:39:55,830 --> 00:39:57,450 huge wilderness designation, 764 00:39:57,450 --> 00:40:00,330 like basically the entire San Rafael Swell. 765 00:40:00,330 --> 00:40:03,970 - The Emery County lands bill protects a million plus acres 766 00:40:03,970 --> 00:40:06,950 for climbers and outdoor enthusiasts. 767 00:40:06,950 --> 00:40:09,830 - Right now our country is so divided 768 00:40:09,830 --> 00:40:12,880 and the outdoor recreation is that point at which 769 00:40:12,880 --> 00:40:17,302 diverse people can agree on things and work together on it. 770 00:40:17,302 --> 00:40:19,890 - [Interviewer] What about Steven Jeffrey, he's-- 771 00:40:19,890 --> 00:40:20,830 - Moved. 772 00:40:20,830 --> 00:40:22,723 Steven Jeffrey just moved there. 773 00:40:24,410 --> 00:40:27,400 - Adriana and I became a part of this community 774 00:40:27,400 --> 00:40:31,510 through our festival and now we live here. 775 00:40:31,510 --> 00:40:35,150 - I love Orangeville and I do not wanna leave, ever. 776 00:40:35,150 --> 00:40:36,970 - Even as a mayor of Joe's Valley Bouldering now, 777 00:40:36,970 --> 00:40:39,520 I mean he's writing the guidebook and he's a local. 778 00:40:40,980 --> 00:40:43,648 I mean he loves that place you know. 779 00:40:43,648 --> 00:40:48,648 ♪ Oh lord I see what brings me here ♪ 780 00:40:50,384 --> 00:40:54,801 ♪ It's a mother to all my wandering ♪ 781 00:40:56,120 --> 00:40:59,040 - When I first started coming down here 25 years ago 782 00:40:59,040 --> 00:41:00,370 I was a scared little kid 783 00:41:00,370 --> 00:41:02,970 just looking for boulders to climb on. 784 00:41:02,970 --> 00:41:04,720 If anyone told me this is the place 785 00:41:04,720 --> 00:41:06,610 where I'd be settling down and livin, 786 00:41:06,610 --> 00:41:08,560 I would definitely think you were crazy 787 00:41:10,140 --> 00:41:13,100 but honestly I couldn't find a better place on Earth 788 00:41:13,100 --> 00:41:14,311 than Joe's Valley. 789 00:41:14,311 --> 00:41:19,311 ♪ And girls will come in first in clothes ♪ 790 00:41:20,361 --> 00:41:25,361 ♪ And the boys will wait a gazing ♪ 791 00:41:27,043 --> 00:41:32,043 ♪ And birds will sing from tops of trees ♪ 792 00:41:33,471 --> 00:41:37,388 ♪ And sunlight, falling angels ♪ 793 00:43:53,409 --> 00:43:55,866 When you're in the mountains on a big adventure 794 00:43:58,480 --> 00:44:00,378 it's an intense feeling 795 00:44:00,790 --> 00:44:03,958 to know that your safety and getting back down 796 00:44:04,270 --> 00:44:06,615 is completely reliant on yourself 797 00:44:15,069 --> 00:44:17,811 I mean, you just have to climb carefully 798 00:44:18,205 --> 00:44:20,634 Take it one step at a time 799 00:45:16,821 --> 00:45:18,821 The mountains are alive all around you 800 00:45:20,832 --> 00:45:22,579 and there's stuff that's beyond your control 801 00:45:27,215 --> 00:45:28,733 But one of the coolest feelings 802 00:45:28,740 --> 00:45:30,656 that a human can experience 803 00:45:30,671 --> 00:45:34,787 is to feel so small in a world that's so big 804 00:46:01,755 --> 00:46:06,031 Climbing for me is definitely about a lot more than just climbing 805 00:46:07,504 --> 00:46:11,418 It's more about the mental journey from beginning to end 806 00:46:11,967 --> 00:46:14,196 And everything that’s brought me to that point 807 00:46:18,195 --> 00:46:23,595 It's almost like my whole life’s leading me to a certain place 808 00:47:01,609 --> 00:47:04,109 (piano music) 809 00:47:17,520 --> 00:47:19,810 - [Alex] The Nose is 3000 feet of climbing, 810 00:47:19,810 --> 00:47:20,727 straight up the center of El Capitan. 811 00:47:20,727 --> 00:47:25,487 It's one of the most famous, historic routes in the world. 812 00:47:27,177 --> 00:47:28,960 The speed record on the nose 813 00:47:28,960 --> 00:47:31,850 has always been a series competition. 814 00:47:31,850 --> 00:47:33,110 The different climbing heroes 815 00:47:33,110 --> 00:47:35,250 breaking the record back and forth. 816 00:47:35,250 --> 00:47:38,363 I mean, climbing El Cap really quickly is pretty hardcore. 817 00:47:41,274 --> 00:47:42,772 - [Interviewer] Give me a brief history 818 00:47:42,772 --> 00:47:43,862 of speed climbing on The Nose. 819 00:47:43,862 --> 00:47:47,116 - A brief history of speed climbing on The Nose. 820 00:47:47,116 --> 00:47:49,280 (hammer clanging) 821 00:47:49,280 --> 00:47:52,300 The Nose was first climbed in 1958 by Warren Harding. 822 00:47:52,300 --> 00:47:54,180 It was the first rock climb of that scale 823 00:47:54,180 --> 00:47:56,930 that had ever been done and it took 40 days. 824 00:47:56,930 --> 00:47:58,100 Since then people have been trying 825 00:47:58,100 --> 00:47:59,980 to climb it faster and faster. 826 00:47:59,980 --> 00:48:01,690 Royal Robbins did it in a week. 827 00:48:01,690 --> 00:48:03,400 - The second the center of The Nose was a move 828 00:48:03,400 --> 00:48:04,780 on the Yosemite chess board, 829 00:48:04,780 --> 00:48:07,220 and who ever makes the best moves is going to win. 830 00:48:07,220 --> 00:48:09,930 - [Alex] Each generation writes its own history on The Nose. 831 00:48:09,930 --> 00:48:12,754 In the 80's, Peter Croft started pushing it faster. 832 00:48:12,754 --> 00:48:14,240 (dramatic music) 833 00:48:14,240 --> 00:48:16,140 - If I can do that fast then I've got 834 00:48:16,140 --> 00:48:18,330 the whole afternoon free to do something else. 835 00:48:18,330 --> 00:48:21,240 - [Alex] In the early 90's Hans Florine entered the scene 836 00:48:21,240 --> 00:48:24,434 and basically ushered in the modern era of speed climbing. 837 00:48:24,434 --> 00:48:26,190 (dramatic music) 838 00:48:26,190 --> 00:48:29,290 - Speed climbing The Nose is the ultimate expression 839 00:48:29,290 --> 00:48:31,511 of how competent a climber you are. 840 00:48:31,511 --> 00:48:34,970 To race up this 3000 foot wall in under three hours. 841 00:48:34,970 --> 00:48:36,466 You have to have the skills 842 00:48:36,466 --> 00:48:39,440 and endurance like a marathon runner. 843 00:48:39,440 --> 00:48:42,220 It is the most badass competition there is. 844 00:48:42,220 --> 00:48:46,183 Fastest time up the most incredible rock face in the world. 845 00:48:47,159 --> 00:48:49,200 I think this record will last for a good long time. 846 00:48:49,200 --> 00:48:51,235 - [Alex] All these incredibly talented climbers 847 00:48:51,235 --> 00:48:53,363 started to compete in that arena. 848 00:48:54,650 --> 00:48:56,863 Legendary figures like the Huber brothers. 849 00:48:58,140 --> 00:48:59,598 - And that should be clipped to the bottom belt? 850 00:48:59,598 --> 00:49:00,431 - Yup. 851 00:49:00,431 --> 00:49:01,810 - [Alex] More women got into the speed climbing game 852 00:49:01,810 --> 00:49:04,880 like Quinn Brett, Libby Sauter, Mayan Smith-Gobat. 853 00:49:04,880 --> 00:49:08,255 - It's pretty risky, you face some really big falls. 854 00:49:08,255 --> 00:49:11,310 (climbers chanting) 855 00:49:11,310 --> 00:49:13,780 - [Alex] Hans recruited Yuji Hirayama. 856 00:49:13,780 --> 00:49:16,388 - We're down to not just minutes, but to seconds. 857 00:49:16,388 --> 00:49:18,400 (group cheering) 858 00:49:18,400 --> 00:49:19,770 - The record went back and forth. 859 00:49:19,770 --> 00:49:22,880 We wanna one up each other, we wanna be number one. 860 00:49:22,880 --> 00:49:25,210 The whole strategy starts to become more extreme. 861 00:49:25,210 --> 00:49:27,640 At the boot I run out the entire back, 862 00:49:27,640 --> 00:49:31,260 just hold the rope with my hands as Sean swings across. 863 00:49:31,260 --> 00:49:33,780 Basically just less protection, bigger risks. 864 00:49:33,780 --> 00:49:35,078 - Oh dear, don't fall. 865 00:49:35,078 --> 00:49:35,911 Okay. 866 00:49:35,911 --> 00:49:38,156 - It's coming close to a certain limit. 867 00:49:38,156 --> 00:49:39,080 (climber screaming) 868 00:49:39,080 --> 00:49:41,110 - Just a barely increase there. 869 00:49:41,110 --> 00:49:43,650 - [Alex] In 2012 Dean Potter shaved a few seconds 870 00:49:43,650 --> 00:49:47,400 off the time and Hans had to hitch his wagon to a new horse. 871 00:49:47,400 --> 00:49:49,030 - I'd been looking around for somebody else 872 00:49:49,030 --> 00:49:53,569 I can team up with, I thought, Alex Honnald soloed half-dome 873 00:49:53,569 --> 00:49:55,903 let's pull him into the mix. 874 00:49:55,903 --> 00:49:57,970 - [Alex] I mean, Hans did literally write the book 875 00:49:57,970 --> 00:49:59,470 How To Speed Climb which I read 876 00:49:59,470 --> 00:50:00,880 and learned how to speed climb from 877 00:50:00,880 --> 00:50:03,330 so it was pretty exciting for me. 878 00:50:03,330 --> 00:50:05,465 I think the biggest take away was how systematically 879 00:50:05,465 --> 00:50:08,120 he approached the entire experience. 880 00:50:08,120 --> 00:50:09,040 I was wondering about that. 881 00:50:09,040 --> 00:50:11,790 You had to memorize all the moves, all the gear, 882 00:50:11,790 --> 00:50:13,080 you had to know what your partner's doing 883 00:50:13,080 --> 00:50:14,900 in the different places, you had to figure out 884 00:50:14,900 --> 00:50:17,720 all these different ways to refine things down 885 00:50:17,720 --> 00:50:19,243 as near to perfection as you can. 886 00:50:19,243 --> 00:50:21,175 (dramatic music) 887 00:50:21,175 --> 00:50:24,213 When you get to climb that well, it's so fun. 888 00:50:25,290 --> 00:50:28,000 Hans and I set a new record of two, 23, 46 889 00:50:28,000 --> 00:50:29,960 and we were pretty satisfied with ourselves. 890 00:50:29,960 --> 00:50:32,530 Then after five years these two guys, 891 00:50:32,530 --> 00:50:34,720 Brad Gobright and Jim Reynolds came along. 892 00:50:34,720 --> 00:50:37,100 - We're kind of the dirt bag monkeys. 893 00:50:37,100 --> 00:50:39,220 - [Alex] And they managed to break it. 894 00:50:39,220 --> 00:50:40,570 Which is pretty impressive. 895 00:50:41,770 --> 00:50:43,140 - When we topped out, you know I made 896 00:50:43,140 --> 00:50:47,330 a little Instagram post then and I got a text from Alex 897 00:50:47,330 --> 00:50:50,020 literally less than a minute after I'd made the post, 898 00:50:50,020 --> 00:50:51,770 like hey, congrats you know. 899 00:50:51,770 --> 00:50:53,513 A quick little, like hey, good job guys, 900 00:50:53,513 --> 00:50:55,280 all right, I'm calling Tommy. 901 00:50:55,280 --> 00:50:57,100 (both laughing) 902 00:50:57,100 --> 00:51:00,190 - In the past, you know the players, like the Hubers, 903 00:51:00,190 --> 00:51:03,650 frickin the Hans Florine, Yuji Hirayama, these are pros, 904 00:51:03,650 --> 00:51:05,650 these are like the best climbers in the world. 905 00:51:05,650 --> 00:51:08,810 And then Brad and Jim, the dark horses, 906 00:51:08,810 --> 00:51:11,737 I did not see that one coming that's for sure (laughs). 907 00:51:12,966 --> 00:51:14,460 (Jim laughing) 908 00:51:14,460 --> 00:51:17,700 I barely knew who they were, they just came outta nowhere 909 00:51:17,700 --> 00:51:19,370 and broke The Nose speed record. 910 00:51:19,370 --> 00:51:20,770 - [Interviewer] How many interviews have you done 911 00:51:20,770 --> 00:51:22,700 on camera before today? 912 00:51:22,700 --> 00:51:25,340 - Probably none, I've done no interviews 913 00:51:25,340 --> 00:51:26,640 on camera before (laughs). 914 00:51:27,620 --> 00:51:30,350 - See my vocabulary sucks so I'm always like, I start talkin 915 00:51:30,350 --> 00:51:33,130 and I'm like what the fuck am I saying? 916 00:51:33,130 --> 00:51:34,910 What am I trying to say? 917 00:51:34,910 --> 00:51:36,993 - [Tommy] They seem kind of goofy and fun. 918 00:51:36,993 --> 00:51:41,780 - Look at this, crispy, the pet squirrel. 919 00:51:41,780 --> 00:51:43,660 - They live kind of like derelicts. 920 00:51:43,660 --> 00:51:46,110 - All right, yeah, welcome to the place guys, 921 00:51:46,110 --> 00:51:48,910 step through the gate, watch your head on the skeleton. 922 00:51:48,910 --> 00:51:52,110 We got our stick walls, to give us a little bit of privacy. 923 00:51:52,110 --> 00:51:53,830 Do you wanna come inside? 924 00:51:53,830 --> 00:51:56,740 We've got basic supplies, the climbing gear, 925 00:51:56,740 --> 00:51:58,720 the cam shackles, the Beargrease. 926 00:51:58,720 --> 00:52:00,850 This is the finger board, it's good 927 00:52:00,850 --> 00:52:03,040 'cause it's got big holds. 928 00:52:03,040 --> 00:52:04,670 These are the ones I grab onto. 929 00:52:04,670 --> 00:52:06,313 We've got this nice collage of all my friends 930 00:52:06,313 --> 00:52:08,630 I don't think I actually know any of those people 931 00:52:08,630 --> 00:52:11,240 but it's a nice collage. 932 00:52:11,240 --> 00:52:13,480 Dean Potter shows us the way. 933 00:52:13,480 --> 00:52:15,630 We follow in Deans footsteps. 934 00:52:15,630 --> 00:52:18,804 This is where we keep the katana, right here. 935 00:52:18,804 --> 00:52:23,700 This is, been in my family for at least a generation 936 00:52:23,700 --> 00:52:26,470 which I guess means, my brother gave it to me 937 00:52:26,470 --> 00:52:30,625 and yeah that's what we use to combat all evil. 938 00:52:30,625 --> 00:52:31,970 - [Interviewer] What kind of music do you listen too? 939 00:52:31,970 --> 00:52:35,670 - Mainly death metal, yup, the heavier, the faster, 940 00:52:35,670 --> 00:52:38,227 gets me stoked, makes me feel like life is epic 941 00:52:38,227 --> 00:52:40,170 'cause life is epic. 942 00:52:40,170 --> 00:52:44,321 Got the heavy drums, the shreddin guitar, 943 00:52:44,321 --> 00:52:47,321 (heavy metal music) 944 00:52:54,150 --> 00:52:57,008 that's what you need, that's what you need right there. 945 00:52:57,008 --> 00:53:00,008 (heavy metal music) 946 00:53:04,870 --> 00:53:06,680 Welcome to the circle of power, 947 00:53:06,680 --> 00:53:11,110 this is where we come to focus our chi, not really, 948 00:53:11,110 --> 00:53:13,150 don't know any martial arts necessarily 949 00:53:13,150 --> 00:53:15,690 but know we're trying to get all centered 950 00:53:15,690 --> 00:53:16,901 and ready for The Nose. 951 00:53:16,901 --> 00:53:20,440 (heavy metal music) 952 00:53:20,440 --> 00:53:23,040 - Jim and I put in a lot of work, just that season, 953 00:53:23,040 --> 00:53:25,370 we climbed it 11 times. 954 00:53:25,370 --> 00:53:27,870 Trying to perfect that strategy just right 955 00:53:27,870 --> 00:53:31,220 to where we could shave off just a few minutes. 956 00:53:31,220 --> 00:53:33,723 Go by go we were running it out a little more, 957 00:53:33,723 --> 00:53:35,750 error back was getting thinner and thinner. 958 00:53:35,750 --> 00:53:37,860 For my half I made it to the top of Boots Leg 959 00:53:37,860 --> 00:53:41,810 which is 1500 feet up and I only placed three cams 960 00:53:41,810 --> 00:53:43,550 in that entire time. 961 00:53:43,550 --> 00:53:45,780 - [Interviewer] How safe was your ascent? 962 00:53:45,780 --> 00:53:48,920 - To say it's safe would be total lie, 963 00:53:48,920 --> 00:53:50,483 I mean it's not that safe. 964 00:53:52,841 --> 00:53:54,200 It's like it is definitely dangerous 965 00:53:54,200 --> 00:53:59,200 but we would try to make it as reckless as possible. 966 00:54:02,020 --> 00:54:03,120 Let me redo that. 967 00:54:03,120 --> 00:54:08,120 It's like, The Nose record is absolutely dangerous, 968 00:54:08,170 --> 00:54:11,870 there's no getting around that but the goal 969 00:54:11,870 --> 00:54:15,447 is to try to make it just-- 970 00:54:19,050 --> 00:54:21,170 God damn it I can't speak. 971 00:54:21,170 --> 00:54:22,370 What am I trying to say? 972 00:54:24,432 --> 00:54:26,523 The least amount of recklessness, yeah. 973 00:54:27,570 --> 00:54:28,403 Holy shit. 974 00:54:28,403 --> 00:54:29,750 On the record go, like a dumbass, 975 00:54:29,750 --> 00:54:31,640 I just forgot to drink water, 976 00:54:31,640 --> 00:54:33,900 I was like holy crap man I'm thirsty. 977 00:54:33,900 --> 00:54:36,110 I got up to the Dolt Tower and there's a party up there 978 00:54:36,110 --> 00:54:38,800 and I was like, can I have some water? 979 00:54:38,800 --> 00:54:40,117 - [Austin] Need coffee or anything? 980 00:54:40,117 --> 00:54:41,990 - No, do you have any water up there? 981 00:54:41,990 --> 00:54:43,110 - [Austin] Yeah lots. 982 00:54:43,110 --> 00:54:44,630 - [Brad] I was breathing super heavy 983 00:54:44,630 --> 00:54:46,443 and I'm trying to drink and I choked. 984 00:54:48,750 --> 00:54:51,031 - Just like coughed into their water bottle 985 00:54:51,031 --> 00:54:52,681 and gave it back (laughs). 986 00:54:52,681 --> 00:54:53,589 - I'm like, thank you. 987 00:54:53,589 --> 00:54:55,197 (Jim laughing) 988 00:54:55,197 --> 00:54:56,200 - The less you have, the better, 989 00:54:56,200 --> 00:54:58,820 because if you have nothing on you then you're light 990 00:54:58,820 --> 00:55:01,390 and free and you can climb really fast, 991 00:55:01,390 --> 00:55:03,470 just like being a runner you know, 992 00:55:03,470 --> 00:55:05,810 they got those little tiny shorts that they run with. 993 00:55:05,810 --> 00:55:08,360 Yeah I would go up there and I wouldn't wanna wear underwear 994 00:55:08,360 --> 00:55:10,510 'cause it'd weigh me down to much (laughs). 995 00:55:12,190 --> 00:55:14,120 The closer we're getting to the record 996 00:55:14,120 --> 00:55:16,400 maybe we're pushing that boundary between dangerous 997 00:55:16,400 --> 00:55:18,443 and reckless just a little bit more. 998 00:55:19,600 --> 00:55:22,460 You're starting to wonder, can we just take a little bit 999 00:55:22,460 --> 00:55:25,070 more risk and get it finished so that 1000 00:55:25,070 --> 00:55:28,999 we don't have to come back and take all that risk again? 1001 00:55:28,999 --> 00:55:31,950 (dramatic music) 1002 00:55:31,950 --> 00:55:34,780 - [Brad] Part of the strategy is that I need to be right on 1003 00:55:34,780 --> 00:55:38,510 Jim's ass for that last pitch 'cause the time doesn't stop 1004 00:55:38,510 --> 00:55:39,970 until I touch the tree. 1005 00:55:39,970 --> 00:55:43,023 Yeah, I'm giving it everything I got. 1006 00:55:43,940 --> 00:55:46,000 I'm just sticking my fingers through the hangers, 1007 00:55:46,000 --> 00:55:48,140 I'm not clipping them with carabiners. 1008 00:55:48,140 --> 00:55:49,880 - I heard that at the top Brad was literally just holding on 1009 00:55:49,880 --> 00:55:52,720 with his fingers to the bolts and just plowing across 1010 00:55:52,720 --> 00:55:54,870 and they had an entire 60 meter rope hanging between them 1011 00:55:54,870 --> 00:55:57,010 but with nothing clipped and you're like what? 1012 00:55:57,010 --> 00:55:59,264 Like what are you guys doing? 1013 00:55:59,264 --> 00:56:01,030 - This one final bolt that I clipped 1014 00:56:01,030 --> 00:56:03,180 just so that we're clipped into something 1015 00:56:03,180 --> 00:56:05,260 but this time I'm like we're gonna break the record 1016 00:56:05,260 --> 00:56:06,790 there's no time for anything. 1017 00:56:06,790 --> 00:56:09,857 So I skip it and it's a little Dean Potter quote, 1018 00:56:09,857 --> 00:56:11,937 "No gear, no falls". 1019 00:56:11,937 --> 00:56:13,437 "No gear, no falls". 1020 00:56:14,520 --> 00:56:16,680 Brad's down there just like monoing 1021 00:56:16,680 --> 00:56:17,960 through the bolt hangers. 1022 00:56:17,960 --> 00:56:19,630 - I was like, what does he mean? 1023 00:56:19,630 --> 00:56:20,463 Like there's no gear? 1024 00:56:20,463 --> 00:56:21,296 What? 1025 00:56:21,296 --> 00:56:23,340 I remember pulling over to this one lip 1026 00:56:23,340 --> 00:56:25,060 and I was like, yeah he's not joking, 1027 00:56:25,060 --> 00:56:27,096 there's no gear between us. 1028 00:56:27,096 --> 00:56:30,096 (heavy metal music) 1029 00:56:34,870 --> 00:56:36,439 - Yeah man, come on! 1030 00:56:36,439 --> 00:56:38,218 We got this! 1031 00:56:38,218 --> 00:56:39,301 Come on Brad! 1032 00:56:40,217 --> 00:56:41,482 Come on! 1033 00:56:41,482 --> 00:56:43,140 Yeah man! 1034 00:56:43,140 --> 00:56:43,973 - Cool. 1035 00:56:45,080 --> 00:56:48,120 - Oh my God, we did it (Brads speech muffled by Jim) 1036 00:56:48,120 --> 00:56:51,240 - When Brad and Jim took Alex's record, 1037 00:56:51,240 --> 00:56:53,430 Alex started talking about recruiting me. 1038 00:56:53,430 --> 00:56:56,640 - There aren't that many potential partners out there 1039 00:56:56,640 --> 00:56:57,810 for speed climbing The Nose, 1040 00:56:57,810 --> 00:56:58,780 there's just not that many people 1041 00:56:58,780 --> 00:57:01,593 who can physically climb 3000 feet really fast. 1042 00:57:02,970 --> 00:57:04,940 To me the most obvious choice is Tommy Caldwell. 1043 00:57:04,940 --> 00:57:06,240 He's a really good trad climber, 1044 00:57:06,240 --> 00:57:07,710 he's a really good granite climber, 1045 00:57:07,710 --> 00:57:09,090 I mean my shoes are named after him 1046 00:57:09,090 --> 00:57:11,060 so that's always a good sign. 1047 00:57:11,060 --> 00:57:14,840 - Alex is the best climber for that style of rock climbing 1048 00:57:14,840 --> 00:57:17,460 and so when two monkeys crawl outta the boulders 1049 00:57:17,460 --> 00:57:21,730 and take his record, he's gotta team up with the other Titan 1050 00:57:21,730 --> 00:57:25,120 of Yosemite rock climbing and show us how it's done 1051 00:57:25,120 --> 00:57:26,600 but we'll see. 1052 00:57:26,600 --> 00:57:27,433 - We'll see. 1053 00:57:27,433 --> 00:57:28,266 (Jim laughs) 1054 00:57:28,266 --> 00:57:29,099 - Yeah, we'll see. 1055 00:57:30,543 --> 00:57:33,471 - You know there's a video clip of Brad and Jim climbing it. 1056 00:57:33,471 --> 00:57:34,753 - Brad Gobright-- 1057 00:57:34,753 --> 00:57:37,547 - When two aspiring amateurs dis you on the tally pull. 1058 00:57:37,547 --> 00:57:40,193 - It was 2, 19, 44, I thought it was 2, 17, 44. 1059 00:57:40,193 --> 00:57:41,469 - Oh yeah now it seems pretty obtainable. 1060 00:57:41,469 --> 00:57:42,469 - Yeah. 1061 00:57:42,469 --> 00:57:44,260 - Oh well, 2,19. 1062 00:57:44,260 --> 00:57:46,385 Whoa, look how far he's swinging for the King Swing. 1063 00:57:46,385 --> 00:57:48,062 (Tommy laughs) 1064 00:57:48,062 --> 00:57:49,930 Look how much jumping he's doing, that can't be the way 1065 00:57:49,930 --> 00:57:51,580 he actually did it, that's crazy. 1066 00:57:52,674 --> 00:57:54,960 What a (speech muffled from food in Jims mouth) 1067 00:57:54,960 --> 00:57:58,492 and his rope is just flossing across the ledge. 1068 00:57:58,492 --> 00:57:59,990 - I like critiquing somebodies else's climbing 1069 00:57:59,990 --> 00:58:01,243 while you sit and eat chips. 1070 00:58:01,243 --> 00:58:02,400 (Tommy laughs) 1071 00:58:02,400 --> 00:58:05,110 (chip crunching) 1072 00:58:05,110 --> 00:58:06,530 I mean not to throw them under the bus 1073 00:58:06,530 --> 00:58:07,920 but when you watch the time lapse 1074 00:58:07,920 --> 00:58:10,970 of the two of them climbing The Nose in a couple minutes. 1075 00:58:10,970 --> 00:58:14,178 I mean, it looks sketchy. 1076 00:58:14,178 --> 00:58:15,640 - Oh man, he's really close. 1077 00:58:15,640 --> 00:58:17,272 - Yeah, he's so close and I'm sure 1078 00:58:17,272 --> 00:58:18,970 they don't have any gear clipped. 1079 00:58:18,970 --> 00:58:21,090 I mean Brad's like 15 feet behind him. 1080 00:58:21,090 --> 00:58:21,923 - Yeah. 1081 00:58:21,923 --> 00:58:23,724 - I mean Brad could pass him right there if he wanted too. 1082 00:58:23,724 --> 00:58:24,790 (Tommy laughs) 1083 00:58:24,790 --> 00:58:25,623 Brad should have played through, 1084 00:58:25,623 --> 00:58:27,660 I mean they have the whole 60 meter rope out 1085 00:58:27,660 --> 00:58:28,900 with nothing clipped, 1086 00:58:28,900 --> 00:58:32,728 it's just not the way we're gonna do it. 1087 00:58:32,728 --> 00:58:35,100 - No (laughs). 1088 00:58:35,100 --> 00:58:36,090 - That's crazy. 1089 00:58:36,090 --> 00:58:37,615 - Alex had told me a couple times, he's like 1090 00:58:37,615 --> 00:58:41,560 dude you guys are sketch up there, that seems really sketchy 1091 00:58:41,560 --> 00:58:43,950 and I was like, yeah it's sketchy 1092 00:58:43,950 --> 00:58:46,413 but that's why I've got the record and you don't. 1093 00:58:52,353 --> 00:58:56,450 - The Nose speed record is one of the big games in climbing. 1094 00:58:56,450 --> 00:58:58,300 I mean I've always been curious 1095 00:58:58,300 --> 00:59:01,990 but yeah I always thought speed climbing was kinda dangerous 1096 00:59:01,990 --> 00:59:06,773 and I've never been the danger guy but climbing with Alex, 1097 00:59:06,773 --> 00:59:08,880 it's just so fun. 1098 00:59:08,880 --> 00:59:11,340 Pretty much any time Alex says let's go do something 1099 00:59:11,340 --> 00:59:13,000 I'm gonna say yes. 1100 00:59:13,000 --> 00:59:15,063 He's my bad influence friend, absolutely. 1101 00:59:16,060 --> 00:59:16,893 - How are you guys? 1102 00:59:16,893 --> 00:59:17,939 How's the fam been? 1103 00:59:17,939 --> 00:59:20,810 - Good, good, yeah the fam's so good these days. 1104 00:59:20,810 --> 00:59:22,140 They don't like it when I leave, 1105 00:59:22,140 --> 00:59:24,930 that part sucks but everything else is-- 1106 00:59:24,930 --> 00:59:27,450 - It's a good thing you're only gone for a month huh? 1107 00:59:27,450 --> 00:59:28,947 - Oh my gosh, are you gone for a month? 1108 00:59:28,947 --> 00:59:30,700 - Well they're gonna come and hang. 1109 00:59:30,700 --> 00:59:31,533 - Oh okay. 1110 00:59:34,018 --> 00:59:36,050 - [Tommy] Wow, I get like shakey excited 1111 00:59:36,050 --> 00:59:37,890 every time I come here still. 1112 00:59:37,890 --> 00:59:39,680 Still happens, it's pretty rad. 1113 00:59:39,680 --> 00:59:41,700 - [Alex] It's pretty exciting. 1114 00:59:41,700 --> 00:59:45,970 - [Tommy] The last couple years, my life is so different, 1115 00:59:45,970 --> 00:59:50,233 I've got two kids now, the Dawn Wall movie's coming out, 1116 00:59:51,100 --> 00:59:53,320 I wrote a book and I've been flying 1117 00:59:53,320 --> 00:59:55,430 all over the place doing events. 1118 00:59:55,430 --> 00:59:56,800 I just haven't been able to get out 1119 00:59:56,800 --> 01:00:00,903 and have these adventures but I crave it to my core. 1120 01:00:02,490 --> 01:00:06,280 The whole game of racing the clock was totally new to me 1121 01:00:06,280 --> 01:00:09,153 but I wanted to at least see what it was like. 1122 01:00:10,382 --> 01:00:11,992 - [Austin] Who's wearing a helmet? 1123 01:00:11,992 --> 01:00:14,492 - I'm wearing a helmet, first time for everything. 1124 01:00:17,690 --> 01:00:19,473 - [Tommy] Wow you look weird in a helmet. 1125 01:00:20,960 --> 01:00:23,270 - Okay I started our timer so, 1126 01:00:23,270 --> 01:00:26,332 we need just a few tons of slack, don't worry about it. 1127 01:00:26,332 --> 01:00:28,860 (dramatic music) 1128 01:00:28,860 --> 01:00:31,140 Okay, I've actually got a piece in. 1129 01:00:31,140 --> 01:00:32,840 Normally when you're climbing 1130 01:00:32,840 --> 01:00:35,665 your partner is holding the rope and they're belaying you. 1131 01:00:35,665 --> 01:00:38,750 (Tommy whistles) 1132 01:00:38,750 --> 01:00:40,680 You stop, and you then you belay them up, you know, 1133 01:00:40,680 --> 01:00:42,368 one and then the other and then the other. 1134 01:00:42,368 --> 01:00:44,590 - Okay I'm climbing Alex. 1135 01:00:44,590 --> 01:00:47,790 - If you wanna go faster, you can simul-climb, 1136 01:00:47,790 --> 01:00:49,590 where you both climb simultaneously. 1137 01:00:51,120 --> 01:00:52,790 When you're simul-climbing 1138 01:00:52,790 --> 01:00:55,040 you definitely need a partner that you trust. 1139 01:00:57,560 --> 01:00:59,190 Your partner should have a loop of slack 1140 01:00:59,190 --> 01:01:01,630 out in front of them so that you have some freedom 1141 01:01:01,630 --> 01:01:04,300 of movement as you climb and then they also have to manage 1142 01:01:04,300 --> 01:01:06,970 all the extra slack hanging down below them. 1143 01:01:06,970 --> 01:01:09,410 As the leader, you're placing gear wherever you want 1144 01:01:09,410 --> 01:01:11,790 but if you fall off, you know that your partner 1145 01:01:11,790 --> 01:01:13,010 is gonna catch you but you don't know 1146 01:01:13,010 --> 01:01:14,640 if there's like a 10 foot loop of slack out 1147 01:01:14,640 --> 01:01:15,990 or a 20 foot loop of slack. 1148 01:01:17,880 --> 01:01:22,388 Basically it's hard to know what'll happen if you fall off. 1149 01:01:22,388 --> 01:01:25,138 (dramatic music) 1150 01:01:26,590 --> 01:01:27,740 So Tommy? 1151 01:01:27,740 --> 01:01:29,210 - Yeah? 1152 01:01:29,210 --> 01:01:31,150 - You can go a little slower Tommy 1153 01:01:31,150 --> 01:01:33,670 'cause there's only really the two anchors 1154 01:01:33,670 --> 01:01:34,750 clipped between us. 1155 01:01:34,750 --> 01:01:37,430 - Oh yeah, okay, just don't fall, got it. 1156 01:01:37,430 --> 01:01:39,920 - When you speed climb The Nose, anything goes. 1157 01:01:39,920 --> 01:01:43,470 Any combination of free climbing, aid climbing, 1158 01:01:43,470 --> 01:01:46,170 cheating, you're stepping on bolts, 1159 01:01:46,170 --> 01:01:48,153 you're pulling on gear if you need too. 1160 01:01:49,470 --> 01:01:50,443 Total free for all. 1161 01:01:51,880 --> 01:01:53,700 There's are always weird logistical snaffus 1162 01:01:53,700 --> 01:01:56,652 or like things happen and you just have to deal with them. 1163 01:01:56,652 --> 01:01:59,402 (dramatic music) 1164 01:02:03,587 --> 01:02:04,802 - [Austin] How you doin? 1165 01:02:04,802 --> 01:02:06,353 - Pretty good, yeah, 1166 01:02:07,339 --> 01:02:09,390 been crash coursed back into the world of granite. 1167 01:02:09,390 --> 01:02:10,510 - [Alex] I'm gonna start going up the bolt ladder 1168 01:02:10,510 --> 01:02:13,700 and then the aid climbing so I'll be a little slower 1169 01:02:13,700 --> 01:02:15,160 and you can kinda keep me a little tighter 1170 01:02:15,160 --> 01:02:16,453 through this part, okay? 1171 01:02:17,402 --> 01:02:18,902 - I got you tight. 1172 01:02:19,800 --> 01:02:22,020 - [Alex] Okay, I'm on the boot. 1173 01:02:22,020 --> 01:02:23,220 I'll just put you on belay 1174 01:02:23,220 --> 01:02:25,913 and you should just climb this part casual style. 1175 01:02:25,913 --> 01:02:27,813 (dramatic music) 1176 01:02:27,813 --> 01:02:29,860 - Oh my God, dude Quinn fell so far. 1177 01:02:29,860 --> 01:02:31,450 - [Alex] Dude. 1178 01:02:31,450 --> 01:02:32,283 - Jesus. 1179 01:02:32,283 --> 01:02:33,800 - [Alex] I know and as you climb this think about 1180 01:02:33,800 --> 01:02:38,244 how weirdly slippery and kinda weird it is. 1181 01:02:38,244 --> 01:02:40,270 (dramatic music) 1182 01:02:40,270 --> 01:02:42,247 - Yeah it is kinda slick rock huh. 1183 01:02:47,350 --> 01:02:49,330 - The main thing with speed climbing The Nose 1184 01:02:49,330 --> 01:02:52,030 is that you shouldn't fall off, ever, 1185 01:02:52,030 --> 01:02:57,030 but it's hard to fall off, it's 5.10 1186 01:02:57,130 --> 01:02:58,810 you never have to do any hard moves 1187 01:02:58,810 --> 01:03:00,450 because you're cheating as much as you can, 1188 01:03:00,450 --> 01:03:02,240 you're pulling on draws, you're stepping on bolts, 1189 01:03:02,240 --> 01:03:03,810 it feels pretty comfortable. 1190 01:03:03,810 --> 01:03:05,860 - I think sometimes Alex is just so, 1191 01:03:05,860 --> 01:03:09,760 he is so confident in himself that he tends to just 1192 01:03:11,030 --> 01:03:13,247 think that other people are as solid as he is 1193 01:03:13,247 --> 01:03:15,353 but it's not the case. 1194 01:03:17,600 --> 01:03:21,830 Our first run, I lead the last 500 feet. 1195 01:03:21,830 --> 01:03:24,130 I was climbing along and I got to a place where I was like 1196 01:03:24,130 --> 01:03:27,373 oh it's a little bit harder here, didn't realize it was wet. 1197 01:03:30,547 --> 01:03:31,380 Falling! 1198 01:03:33,712 --> 01:03:35,093 - [Alex] Whoa, are you okay? 1199 01:03:35,093 --> 01:03:37,520 - [Tommy] I just slipped out of a wet crack. 1200 01:03:37,520 --> 01:03:39,150 I had a piece of gear right at my feet 1201 01:03:39,150 --> 01:03:43,012 and it felt like 50 or 60 feet. 1202 01:03:43,012 --> 01:03:43,845 Falling! 1203 01:03:45,775 --> 01:03:48,160 Wow I slipped out the wet crack. 1204 01:03:48,160 --> 01:03:49,250 - [Alex] Whoa are you okay? 1205 01:03:49,250 --> 01:03:50,350 - Yeah yeah, I'm fine. 1206 01:03:51,360 --> 01:03:52,390 - [Alex] Whoa jeez. 1207 01:03:52,390 --> 01:03:53,400 - [Tommy] What's that? 1208 01:03:53,400 --> 01:03:54,660 - [Alex] I said oh jeez. 1209 01:03:54,660 --> 01:03:56,800 - I just put in a piece luckily. 1210 01:03:56,800 --> 01:03:58,340 - [Alex] Oh yeah, sweet. 1211 01:03:58,340 --> 01:03:59,570 - Yeah sorry about that. 1212 01:03:59,570 --> 01:04:01,189 - [Alex] No no, that's-- 1213 01:04:01,189 --> 01:04:02,853 Sorry I had you kinda loose. 1214 01:04:04,710 --> 01:04:06,970 - Okay Alex, can you pull it tight here? 1215 01:04:06,970 --> 01:04:08,570 - [Alex] Okay, I got you good. 1216 01:04:08,570 --> 01:04:09,630 - Thank you. 1217 01:04:09,630 --> 01:04:10,630 - [Alex] Nice Tommy. 1218 01:04:12,336 --> 01:04:14,480 - [Tommy] We climbed it in four and a half hours. 1219 01:04:14,480 --> 01:04:15,649 - [Alex] Okay. 1220 01:04:15,649 --> 01:04:16,850 - [Tommy] It was kinda mind blowing for me. 1221 01:04:16,850 --> 01:04:17,683 That was fun though man. 1222 01:04:17,683 --> 01:04:19,457 - Yeah that was really good. 1223 01:04:19,457 --> 01:04:22,350 - It's gonna be a good workout. 1224 01:04:22,350 --> 01:04:23,183 - [Alex] Yeah so are we thinking 1225 01:04:23,183 --> 01:04:24,016 we'll climb The Nose again tomorrow? 1226 01:04:24,016 --> 01:04:26,220 - I feel pretty good right now, I feel like we could. 1227 01:04:26,220 --> 01:04:27,580 - I'm down if you're down. 1228 01:04:27,580 --> 01:04:30,820 Tommy, he was surprisingly enthusiastic about it. 1229 01:04:30,820 --> 01:04:32,490 Speed climbing kinda suits his schedule right now, 1230 01:04:32,490 --> 01:04:34,492 I mean honestly he's in the middle of a book tour. 1231 01:04:34,492 --> 01:04:36,900 - I was surprised, I feel shockingly-- 1232 01:04:36,900 --> 01:04:37,733 - Good? 1233 01:04:37,733 --> 01:04:38,566 - Right, yeah. 1234 01:04:38,566 --> 01:04:39,399 - [Alex] It's definitely a good way 1235 01:04:39,399 --> 01:04:40,232 to maximize the amount of climbing you do 1236 01:04:40,232 --> 01:04:41,330 in a short amount of time. 1237 01:04:41,330 --> 01:04:42,865 - Hey Tommy, say hi. 1238 01:04:42,865 --> 01:04:44,298 - Hey, how you guys doin? 1239 01:04:44,298 --> 01:04:45,470 - Are you climbing today? 1240 01:04:45,470 --> 01:04:47,690 - Yeah we climbed El Cap already today. 1241 01:04:47,690 --> 01:04:48,880 - Oh nice. 1242 01:04:48,880 --> 01:04:49,910 - Which route did you climb? 1243 01:04:49,910 --> 01:04:50,899 - The Nose. 1244 01:04:50,899 --> 01:04:51,732 - Oh nice. 1245 01:04:52,870 --> 01:04:54,190 Awesome. 1246 01:04:54,190 --> 01:04:55,660 - Yup, just a little fitness lap. 1247 01:04:55,660 --> 01:04:57,143 - I've got Alex's already. 1248 01:04:57,143 --> 01:04:57,976 - Oh yeah? 1249 01:04:57,976 --> 01:04:59,967 - Reel Rock L.A. 1250 01:04:59,967 --> 01:05:00,800 - [Tommy] Nice. 1251 01:05:00,800 --> 01:05:01,953 - [Male Fan] I totally understand man. 1252 01:05:01,953 --> 01:05:04,200 - Are you guys getting on something this afternoon? 1253 01:05:04,200 --> 01:05:05,950 - No, I'm getting in my bed. 1254 01:05:05,950 --> 01:05:08,133 - Oh, okay, thanks. 1255 01:05:09,030 --> 01:05:11,250 - [Interviewer] Tommy took a 50 foot whipper today. 1256 01:05:11,250 --> 01:05:12,117 - Did he really? 1257 01:05:12,117 --> 01:05:13,303 Are you serious? 1258 01:05:14,268 --> 01:05:15,570 Fuck. 1259 01:05:15,570 --> 01:05:17,103 He took a 50 foot whipper? 1260 01:05:18,117 --> 01:05:19,340 Did you film it? 1261 01:05:19,340 --> 01:05:20,450 You got it on film? 1262 01:05:20,450 --> 01:05:22,380 Oh yeah. 1263 01:05:22,380 --> 01:05:23,493 Money shot. 1264 01:05:25,540 --> 01:05:28,620 Well there you go, even if you're a 5.15 climber 1265 01:05:28,620 --> 01:05:30,863 the 5.10 cracks can still get you 1266 01:05:30,863 --> 01:05:32,330 when you're speed climbing man. 1267 01:05:32,330 --> 01:05:34,890 Maybe you're flying in the night before 1268 01:05:34,890 --> 01:05:36,340 and you haven't climbed in Yosemite in a while 1269 01:05:36,340 --> 01:05:39,677 so you decide to team up with Alex and sprint up The Nose. 1270 01:05:39,677 --> 01:05:41,180 That's when you can take the whip, 1271 01:05:41,180 --> 01:05:43,190 when you're in a 5.10 wet lie back. 1272 01:05:43,190 --> 01:05:46,020 - Yeah but me and Brad, we spend a lot of time in Yosemite, 1273 01:05:46,020 --> 01:05:48,040 we don't travel anywhere else. 1274 01:05:48,040 --> 01:05:49,890 - I have yet to go on any book tours. 1275 01:05:50,740 --> 01:05:51,573 - Yeah. 1276 01:05:53,502 --> 01:05:55,250 - I'll fall anywhere doing the fastest-- 1277 01:05:55,250 --> 01:05:56,928 - You're not supposed to fall ever. 1278 01:05:56,928 --> 01:05:57,870 - Whoa, shit. 1279 01:05:57,870 --> 01:05:59,660 - Maybe they've got a new strategy. 1280 01:05:59,660 --> 01:06:00,493 - Wow. 1281 01:06:00,493 --> 01:06:01,326 - Bringing more cams. 1282 01:06:01,326 --> 01:06:02,264 - What-- 1283 01:06:02,264 --> 01:06:03,420 - [Interviewer] They have a huge rack. 1284 01:06:03,420 --> 01:06:04,565 - They have a huge rack yeah? 1285 01:06:04,565 --> 01:06:05,650 - [Interviewer] Just to start. 1286 01:06:05,650 --> 01:06:07,673 - Yeah, just to start, it'll get thinner. 1287 01:06:08,590 --> 01:06:10,800 - Alex is like no dude, I swear it's safe, 1288 01:06:10,800 --> 01:06:12,310 we can totally make it safe 1289 01:06:12,310 --> 01:06:14,539 and then each time they go up there he'll probably like, 1290 01:06:14,539 --> 01:06:18,077 just oops, we forgot the other point five (laughs). 1291 01:06:19,310 --> 01:06:21,200 - Let's organize the rack so that, 1292 01:06:21,200 --> 01:06:23,410 you may as well just organize it straight onto your harness 1293 01:06:23,410 --> 01:06:25,070 so you're ready to leave tomorrow. 1294 01:06:25,070 --> 01:06:28,120 - I've been really surprised by Alex's willingness 1295 01:06:28,120 --> 01:06:29,518 to keep it a bit safer. 1296 01:06:29,518 --> 01:06:31,178 - I feel like we should just start trimming down the rack 1297 01:06:31,178 --> 01:06:32,011 a little bit as we go. 1298 01:06:32,011 --> 01:06:32,943 - Although I'm already seeing that 1299 01:06:32,943 --> 01:06:34,240 when we're going through our rack, 1300 01:06:34,240 --> 01:06:35,630 he's like oh we can remove this piece, 1301 01:06:35,630 --> 01:06:37,055 we can remove this piece, and I'm like, 1302 01:06:37,055 --> 01:06:39,290 let's' not take that to far. 1303 01:06:39,290 --> 01:06:41,840 - Let's drop the cam hook, screw that, 1304 01:06:41,840 --> 01:06:43,360 maybe I'll leave these micronuts. 1305 01:06:43,360 --> 01:06:45,540 - So we will maybe need to put another nut 1306 01:06:45,540 --> 01:06:46,870 in the Great Roof tomorrow. 1307 01:06:46,870 --> 01:06:48,630 - If it's this nut then I'm not gonna feel 1308 01:06:48,630 --> 01:06:49,717 that much more secure anyway. 1309 01:06:49,717 --> 01:06:50,618 (Tommy laughs) 1310 01:06:50,618 --> 01:06:52,603 Do you wanna drop the green C three? 1311 01:06:56,530 --> 01:06:57,580 - Yeah, sure. 1312 01:06:57,580 --> 01:06:59,895 - Just take one thing off the harness. 1313 01:06:59,895 --> 01:07:01,560 - Sure. 1314 01:07:01,560 --> 01:07:02,470 - You're all wrapped up. 1315 01:07:02,470 --> 01:07:04,510 - Yeah that's not horrible. 1316 01:07:04,510 --> 01:07:06,010 That does feel heavy actually. 1317 01:07:07,390 --> 01:07:08,990 - That's why we'll trim it down. 1318 01:07:10,830 --> 01:07:13,873 - My wife isn't exactly stoked about this, 1319 01:07:14,810 --> 01:07:16,863 everybody thinks it's pretty dangerous. 1320 01:07:17,910 --> 01:07:22,410 With all the carnage in the past year on that route 1321 01:07:22,410 --> 01:07:23,663 makes me hesitate a bit. 1322 01:07:24,750 --> 01:07:27,860 - There have been a lot of semi-legendary falls 1323 01:07:27,860 --> 01:07:30,480 on The Nose where people fall like 100 feet down the wall. 1324 01:07:30,480 --> 01:07:32,820 I was climbing with Ueli Steck when he took a fall. 1325 01:07:32,820 --> 01:07:33,653 - Oh shit. 1326 01:07:33,653 --> 01:07:35,050 - [Alex] He's a little banged up and bleeding a little bit 1327 01:07:35,050 --> 01:07:36,520 but he was basically fine. 1328 01:07:36,520 --> 01:07:39,590 The Huber brothers, I think Thomas took some epic whipper 1329 01:07:39,590 --> 01:07:43,070 off The Nose and then just a week ago, 1330 01:07:43,070 --> 01:07:46,870 Hans Florine fell off and hit a ledge. 1331 01:07:46,870 --> 01:07:50,220 - I'm pretty sure I've broken one or both my legs. 1332 01:07:50,220 --> 01:07:52,060 - [Alex] Shattered both his heels. 1333 01:07:52,060 --> 01:07:53,643 - [Nurse] Insert ice packs. 1334 01:07:55,570 --> 01:07:58,460 - Ice and elevation baby, and rest. 1335 01:07:58,460 --> 01:07:59,293 - [Alex] Hans has climbed The Nose 1336 01:07:59,293 --> 01:08:02,040 like 109 times or something. 1337 01:08:02,040 --> 01:08:03,090 - That's where I fell, right there. 1338 01:08:03,090 --> 01:08:05,090 - [Alex] And then to just take a fall like that 1339 01:08:05,090 --> 01:08:08,560 and break both his legs is pretty grim. 1340 01:08:08,560 --> 01:08:11,600 - I think Hans' injury, the way that we climb 1341 01:08:11,600 --> 01:08:15,503 I always thought that that kinda injury was a possibility. 1342 01:08:16,380 --> 01:08:18,672 Breaking your legs you're gonna recover from that. 1343 01:08:18,672 --> 01:08:19,693 - Road to recovery baby. 1344 01:08:19,693 --> 01:08:22,620 - [Tommy] I feel like that risk is acceptable 1345 01:08:23,940 --> 01:08:28,072 but six months ago Quinn Brett, a total badass, 1346 01:08:28,072 --> 01:08:33,072 fell off of the top of Boot Flake and broke her back 1347 01:08:34,640 --> 01:08:36,393 doin exactly what we're doin. 1348 01:08:37,680 --> 01:08:42,600 - When Quinns accident happened, my emergency pager goes off 1349 01:08:42,600 --> 01:08:45,050 and there's someone who needs to be rescued 1350 01:08:45,050 --> 01:08:47,800 and it's one of our friends Quinn Brett 1351 01:08:47,800 --> 01:08:52,460 who had just taken the most enormous fall you possibly could 1352 01:08:52,460 --> 01:08:56,020 off of the Boot Flake doin the same tactic that Brad 1353 01:08:56,020 --> 01:09:00,670 uses to get up there which is place no gear. 1354 01:09:00,670 --> 01:09:02,780 She had gotten all the way to the end of the pitch, 1355 01:09:02,780 --> 01:09:07,400 somehow slipped and then took the 100 foot fall 1356 01:09:07,400 --> 01:09:12,400 and hit the Texas Flake and fell behind it. 1357 01:09:12,610 --> 01:09:13,980 I was told that she was dead 1358 01:09:13,980 --> 01:09:16,870 and that we were going to do a body recovery. 1359 01:09:16,870 --> 01:09:19,230 We went up to get her down and then it turned out 1360 01:09:19,230 --> 01:09:21,490 she was still alive and luckily they did 1361 01:09:21,490 --> 01:09:24,940 an amazing helicopter rescue, got her off really quick 1362 01:09:24,940 --> 01:09:26,810 but she had shattered her spine 1363 01:09:26,810 --> 01:09:29,497 and probably would be paralyzed for the rest of her life. 1364 01:09:29,497 --> 01:09:32,247 (dramatic music) 1365 01:09:37,080 --> 01:09:40,040 - I'd climbed the nose 12 or 13 times. 1366 01:09:40,040 --> 01:09:42,410 I did speed records on El Cap 1367 01:09:42,410 --> 01:09:45,220 and through other formations in the Valley 1368 01:09:45,220 --> 01:09:47,460 and in Zion and in Rocky. 1369 01:09:47,460 --> 01:09:50,420 For me, speed climbing, I just really like moving. 1370 01:09:50,420 --> 01:09:52,170 Covering terrain really quickly, 1371 01:09:52,170 --> 01:09:55,170 you find yourself in what they call the flow state. 1372 01:09:55,170 --> 01:09:57,100 Your moving, your moving, your brain is firing, 1373 01:09:57,100 --> 01:09:58,520 your problem solving really quickly 1374 01:09:58,520 --> 01:10:00,670 and your body is moving really efficiently. 1375 01:10:01,930 --> 01:10:03,660 Had I summited that day, 1376 01:10:03,660 --> 01:10:06,520 I would probably still be speed climbing. 1377 01:10:06,520 --> 01:10:09,260 I mean it was a pretty awesome feeling 1378 01:10:10,710 --> 01:10:13,093 until the moment I took a fall. 1379 01:10:14,390 --> 01:10:18,130 - Quinn lives in my home town of Estes, see her all the time 1380 01:10:18,130 --> 01:10:21,177 and you see how her life has changed 1381 01:10:21,177 --> 01:10:24,160 and you're just like wow that's pretty heavy. 1382 01:10:24,160 --> 01:10:28,410 So you know, I'm a father now, I can't really do things 1383 01:10:28,410 --> 01:10:33,410 that are, you know I gotta keep my seam pretty buttoned up 1384 01:10:33,630 --> 01:10:34,663 for the most part. 1385 01:10:36,677 --> 01:10:39,442 (birds chirping) 1386 01:10:39,442 --> 01:10:42,010 - [Alex] I remember my first time going up these ledges. 1387 01:10:42,010 --> 01:10:43,729 - [Austin] Have fun guys. 1388 01:10:43,729 --> 01:10:45,270 - [Tommy] See ya. 1389 01:10:45,270 --> 01:10:46,220 - [Austin] Be safe. 1390 01:10:47,206 --> 01:10:49,456 - [Alex] My first time going up these ledges it was like-- 1391 01:10:49,456 --> 01:10:52,870 (dramatic music) 1392 01:10:52,870 --> 01:10:55,540 - [Alex] So we got Jim here doing the rigging to help 1393 01:10:55,540 --> 01:10:57,050 get the cameraman in place. 1394 01:10:57,050 --> 01:10:58,360 How are we looking Jim? 1395 01:10:58,360 --> 01:10:59,340 - They're looking pretty good. 1396 01:10:59,340 --> 01:11:01,300 - [Alex] Yo Tommy, you in the Bolt Ladder? 1397 01:11:01,300 --> 01:11:03,453 - Yeah I like ran outta draws basically. 1398 01:11:04,350 --> 01:11:06,260 - It's a little strange to be up here 1399 01:11:06,260 --> 01:11:08,730 watching the guys who are trying to break our record 1400 01:11:08,730 --> 01:11:11,060 but I'm psyched to see their tactics 1401 01:11:11,060 --> 01:11:13,013 and a little bit of heckling. 1402 01:11:13,950 --> 01:11:16,590 Tommy's kinda botching it on the aid sequence. 1403 01:11:16,590 --> 01:11:18,450 - They have fucking, cruxing out, hold on. 1404 01:11:18,450 --> 01:11:19,283 - [Alex] What's that? 1405 01:11:19,283 --> 01:11:20,360 - Cruxing out, my fault. 1406 01:11:20,360 --> 01:11:21,960 - [Alex] I got you really tight. 1407 01:11:24,432 --> 01:11:26,245 - Can you take for a second? 1408 01:11:26,245 --> 01:11:27,923 - [Alex] Yeah, I gotcha. 1409 01:11:29,820 --> 01:11:31,000 - I gotta work this part out. 1410 01:11:31,000 --> 01:11:33,183 - [Alex] I placed a purple C three. 1411 01:11:34,030 --> 01:11:35,680 - Yeah I couldn't quite reach it. 1412 01:11:41,530 --> 01:11:44,200 - [Jim] Obviously Tommy free climbs like a mad man 1413 01:11:44,200 --> 01:11:46,253 but to put it all out there for something like this 1414 01:11:46,253 --> 01:11:48,230 is a little bit of a risk. 1415 01:11:48,230 --> 01:11:51,582 - [Alex] You shoulda saved yourself one sling as an aider. 1416 01:11:51,582 --> 01:11:54,593 - Yeah, I should have an aider, just remembered that. 1417 01:11:56,160 --> 01:11:57,730 - [Alex] Gumby in. 1418 01:11:57,730 --> 01:12:00,200 - The aid climbing fucks me up. 1419 01:12:00,200 --> 01:12:01,650 - [Alex] Yeah it always does. 1420 01:12:02,530 --> 01:12:04,230 - When I got up to the Boot Flake 1421 01:12:04,230 --> 01:12:06,183 I was thinking about Quinn. 1422 01:12:07,360 --> 01:12:11,083 I decided to put in a piece, even if it slowed us down, 1423 01:12:13,120 --> 01:12:14,103 at least for now. 1424 01:12:16,090 --> 01:12:18,090 - [Alex] I'm not sure if this is the best way but-- 1425 01:12:18,090 --> 01:12:20,093 - Yeah I mean, we can tag it over. 1426 01:12:21,200 --> 01:12:22,033 Oh God. 1427 01:12:22,033 --> 01:12:22,866 - [Alex] I mean the thing is really 1428 01:12:22,866 --> 01:12:25,200 Tommy should just solo the Boot but he just doesn't want to 1429 01:12:25,200 --> 01:12:27,410 which I totally understand and respect 1430 01:12:27,410 --> 01:12:29,540 but so in order for him to get the cure back 1431 01:12:29,540 --> 01:12:32,040 means he has to lower it and it's just a little junk showy. 1432 01:12:32,040 --> 01:12:34,384 - I'm good there, I don't know, where do you go to, 1433 01:12:34,384 --> 01:12:35,670 you're at the King Swing right? 1434 01:12:35,670 --> 01:12:37,380 - No no, I'm above it now. 1435 01:12:37,380 --> 01:12:38,213 - Oh you are. 1436 01:12:38,213 --> 01:12:39,994 - So yeah I'll just lower you down to me. 1437 01:12:39,994 --> 01:12:41,870 Oh no wait, you just go back up 1438 01:12:41,870 --> 01:12:45,355 and it'll lower me right? 1439 01:12:45,355 --> 01:12:46,188 - Need to get you the gear though. 1440 01:12:46,188 --> 01:12:48,023 - Yeah you can just drop it down the line. 1441 01:12:49,707 --> 01:12:51,318 Oh, rack to the nuts. 1442 01:12:51,318 --> 01:12:52,151 (Tommy laughs) 1443 01:12:52,151 --> 01:12:53,083 Just the way I like it. 1444 01:12:54,300 --> 01:12:56,410 - I was wondering if that was gonna happen. 1445 01:12:56,410 --> 01:12:57,330 - Hi guys. 1446 01:12:57,330 --> 01:12:58,163 - You. 1447 01:12:59,000 --> 01:13:00,280 - [Austin] How fast were you guys to here 1448 01:13:00,280 --> 01:13:01,470 on this go Tommy? 1449 01:13:01,470 --> 01:13:02,700 - 1, 38. 1450 01:13:02,700 --> 01:13:03,533 - [Austin] Nice. 1451 01:13:03,533 --> 01:13:05,560 Jim, how long did it take you guys to get here? 1452 01:13:05,560 --> 01:13:08,023 - We're not fully race pace yet and I think what-- 1453 01:13:08,023 --> 01:13:09,110 - [Austin] 51 eh? 1454 01:13:09,110 --> 01:13:10,210 - 51 minutes (laughs). 1455 01:13:13,880 --> 01:13:17,190 - That seemed like, not quite right you know? 1456 01:13:17,190 --> 01:13:18,490 - Yeah maybe not. 1457 01:13:18,490 --> 01:13:21,650 - We kinda need to start going faster so we understand it. 1458 01:13:21,650 --> 01:13:22,787 You know what I mean, like anybody could do 1459 01:13:22,787 --> 01:13:23,620 a four and a half hour run on The Nose 1460 01:13:23,620 --> 01:13:24,680 and be like that's cool. 1461 01:13:24,680 --> 01:13:25,513 - Anybody. 1462 01:13:25,513 --> 01:13:26,466 - Anybody. 1463 01:13:26,466 --> 01:13:27,577 - Yeah anybody can (laughs). 1464 01:13:27,577 --> 01:13:29,410 - [Austin] Anybody. 1465 01:13:29,410 --> 01:13:32,291 - Doing like a two, 50 lap on The Nose is getting into 1466 01:13:32,291 --> 01:13:35,383 some real, like that's fast. 1467 01:13:36,920 --> 01:13:40,120 - Sweet, I'm honing in on being an elite level climber. 1468 01:13:40,120 --> 01:13:41,420 - Yeah you're getting close. 1469 01:13:41,420 --> 01:13:42,667 - Yeah (laughs). 1470 01:13:42,667 --> 01:13:43,550 - I mean the Dawn Wall thing was pretty cool 1471 01:13:43,550 --> 01:13:44,850 but it took 19 days. 1472 01:13:44,850 --> 01:13:45,683 - Yeah (laughs). 1473 01:13:47,100 --> 01:13:48,330 (dramatic music) 1474 01:13:48,330 --> 01:13:49,830 - We kinda need the smaller rack, 1475 01:13:49,830 --> 01:13:51,630 we need to drop a bunch of the cams. 1476 01:13:53,260 --> 01:13:54,210 Droppin number two. 1477 01:13:55,450 --> 01:13:56,830 - Yeah. 1478 01:13:56,830 --> 01:13:58,930 Drop the jacket, drop the nuts, drop a grigri, 1479 01:13:58,930 --> 01:14:00,630 I feel like we could drop a micro. 1480 01:14:01,670 --> 01:14:02,530 - Okay. 1481 01:14:02,530 --> 01:14:03,810 - Micro off the rack. 1482 01:14:03,810 --> 01:14:05,850 Kinda wanna drop more cams. 1483 01:14:05,850 --> 01:14:07,100 Like could we drop a one? 1484 01:14:08,900 --> 01:14:11,133 - Uh. 1485 01:14:12,630 --> 01:14:13,510 - Yeah. 1486 01:14:13,510 --> 01:14:14,910 - That's not that many cams. 1487 01:14:16,820 --> 01:14:19,030 - [Alex] Five a.m and we're about to go climb The Nose, 1488 01:14:19,030 --> 01:14:19,863 third time in three days. 1489 01:14:19,863 --> 01:14:22,970 - [Austin] So is this strategy similar to yesterday? 1490 01:14:22,970 --> 01:14:24,940 - Yeah but less cams. 1491 01:14:24,940 --> 01:14:26,240 - Fewer cams. 1492 01:14:26,240 --> 01:14:27,073 - Fewer cams. 1493 01:14:27,934 --> 01:14:29,710 (speech drowned out by laughter) 1494 01:14:29,710 --> 01:14:31,660 - Make it a grammatically precise film. 1495 01:14:32,620 --> 01:14:35,850 Perfection starts with our spoken word 1496 01:14:35,850 --> 01:14:37,574 at the base of the root. 1497 01:14:37,574 --> 01:14:40,324 (dramatic music) 1498 01:14:42,540 --> 01:14:46,190 - The last couple days I've been flowing better 1499 01:14:46,190 --> 01:14:47,897 and getting a little more fit. 1500 01:14:47,897 --> 01:14:50,647 (dramatic music) 1501 01:14:57,147 --> 01:15:01,677 I'd never realized how freaking fun speed climbing is. 1502 01:15:01,677 --> 01:15:04,427 (dramatic music) 1503 01:15:06,260 --> 01:15:11,260 Climbing El Cap in a couple of hours, that's unbelievable. 1504 01:15:12,403 --> 01:15:15,934 It's just gotta be the coolest racetrack in the world. 1505 01:15:15,934 --> 01:15:17,597 - [Austin] Ya'll went 16 minutes faster. 1506 01:15:17,597 --> 01:15:18,440 - [Alex] Whoa buddy. 1507 01:15:18,440 --> 01:15:19,730 - [Austin] We do the same split at the top, 1508 01:15:19,730 --> 01:15:20,850 we'll be at three hours. 1509 01:15:20,850 --> 01:15:22,150 - [Tommy] I'll do my best. 1510 01:15:27,160 --> 01:15:29,450 - [Alex] I mean the real beauty of speed climbing, 1511 01:15:29,450 --> 01:15:31,203 it's like approaching perfection. 1512 01:15:32,260 --> 01:15:36,500 When you actually climb smoothly up the whole wall, 1513 01:15:36,500 --> 01:15:39,870 there's no wasted movement, no wasted gear, no wasted time 1514 01:15:41,010 --> 01:15:43,330 and you're in this perfectly choreographed dance 1515 01:15:43,330 --> 01:15:44,163 with your partner. 1516 01:15:44,163 --> 01:15:46,380 Tell me when it's fixed! 1517 01:15:46,380 --> 01:15:47,553 It feels amazing. 1518 01:15:49,840 --> 01:15:52,000 - [Tommy] It's crazy climbing with Alex honestly up there 1519 01:15:52,000 --> 01:15:53,910 it's a whole new level. 1520 01:15:53,910 --> 01:15:56,880 Like today he got kinda psyched and started to go fast 1521 01:15:56,880 --> 01:15:58,633 and he was just running it out. 1522 01:15:59,980 --> 01:16:01,100 - [Alex] When you're going speed style 1523 01:16:01,100 --> 01:16:02,170 there are basically two options. 1524 01:16:02,170 --> 01:16:04,280 You can simul-climb or you can short-fix. 1525 01:16:04,280 --> 01:16:06,334 The leader gets to the anchor-- 1526 01:16:06,334 --> 01:16:07,413 I'm tying it off. 1527 01:16:08,284 --> 01:16:10,283 And then pulls up all the extra rope, 1528 01:16:11,470 --> 01:16:13,924 ties the rope off to the anchor-- 1529 01:16:13,924 --> 01:16:14,757 It's fixed! 1530 01:16:14,757 --> 01:16:16,663 The second starts to ascend the rope. 1531 01:16:17,810 --> 01:16:20,220 You just have 100 feet of rope laying there in a pile 1532 01:16:20,220 --> 01:16:21,530 and you just start charging up the wall 1533 01:16:21,530 --> 01:16:22,830 with no protection really. 1534 01:16:23,760 --> 01:16:27,210 - [Tommy] Short fixing, whenever you fall as the leader 1535 01:16:27,210 --> 01:16:30,110 you're looking at falling to the end of that 100 foot rope 1536 01:16:31,990 --> 01:16:35,723 but Alex is willing to take the risk. 1537 01:16:36,690 --> 01:16:41,690 He's so different in that way, like I've fallen 50 feet plus 1538 01:16:42,680 --> 01:16:45,618 probably 10 times on El Cap or something. 1539 01:16:45,618 --> 01:16:47,133 Alex never has. 1540 01:16:48,010 --> 01:16:51,150 He doesn't wanna fall at all and he doesn't fall at all. 1541 01:16:51,150 --> 01:16:52,183 - [Austin] What was your time? 1542 01:16:52,183 --> 01:16:53,320 - Two, 57. 1543 01:16:53,320 --> 01:16:55,160 - I'm feeling pretty encouraged at two, 57 1544 01:16:55,160 --> 01:16:57,160 because Alex climbed the route with his shoes 1545 01:16:57,160 --> 01:17:01,190 looking like that and it was really wet 1546 01:17:01,190 --> 01:17:03,207 and it was our third day in a row (laughs). 1547 01:17:04,290 --> 01:17:06,013 - [Alex] It's just so ridiculous to be at the top of El Cap 1548 01:17:06,013 --> 01:17:07,566 at nine in the morning. 1549 01:17:07,566 --> 01:17:09,600 - I know, love that. 1550 01:17:09,600 --> 01:17:10,550 - Some of these today felt like, 1551 01:17:10,550 --> 01:17:11,920 less grueling then yesterday. 1552 01:17:11,920 --> 01:17:12,753 - Yeah I totally agree. 1553 01:17:12,753 --> 01:17:14,430 - Like I felt sorta tired and slow 1554 01:17:14,430 --> 01:17:16,710 but yeah man it didn't feel-- 1555 01:17:16,710 --> 01:17:18,560 I kinda think we can go sub-two dude. 1556 01:17:19,410 --> 01:17:20,571 We'll see. 1557 01:17:20,571 --> 01:17:21,404 (Tommy laughs) 1558 01:17:21,404 --> 01:17:23,020 - That would be awesome, oh my God. 1559 01:17:23,020 --> 01:17:26,780 Breaking this record, it feels possible I think 1560 01:17:26,780 --> 01:17:30,333 but Alex really wants to do it in under two hours. 1561 01:17:33,444 --> 01:17:35,120 It's gonna be hard. 1562 01:17:35,120 --> 01:17:37,340 - I've always sort of had the life goal of climbing The Nose 1563 01:17:37,340 --> 01:17:40,660 sub two hours, it seems possible 1564 01:17:40,660 --> 01:17:43,390 but it seems kinda crazy, really hard. 1565 01:17:43,390 --> 01:17:45,200 Kinda like it's a two hour marathon. 1566 01:17:45,200 --> 01:17:47,480 It's a big psychological barrier. 1567 01:17:47,480 --> 01:17:50,500 Going sub two, I think we'd be pretty proud 1568 01:17:50,500 --> 01:17:53,282 but we'll see. 1569 01:17:53,282 --> 01:17:56,080 (dramatic music) 1570 01:17:56,080 --> 01:17:56,960 - Ready? 1571 01:17:56,960 --> 01:17:57,793 Go. 1572 01:17:59,060 --> 01:18:02,050 - [Alex] Started exactly six, 20 we are off to the races. 1573 01:18:02,050 --> 01:18:04,660 - [Tommy] This time we pushed it a little bit harder. 1574 01:18:04,660 --> 01:18:05,553 - [Alex] Nice Tommy. 1575 01:18:07,257 --> 01:18:09,183 About to say, you're looking pretty good. 1576 01:18:09,183 --> 01:18:11,270 - [Austin] Yeah. 1577 01:18:11,270 --> 01:18:13,980 - By their fourth attempt Alex and Tommy were moving 1578 01:18:13,980 --> 01:18:16,960 way faster, I was across the valley, 1579 01:18:16,960 --> 01:18:18,510 filming with a telephoto lense. 1580 01:18:18,510 --> 01:18:19,510 - [Stranger] You got a friend up there? 1581 01:18:19,510 --> 01:18:21,880 - [Austin] Yeah they're trying to break the record. 1582 01:18:21,880 --> 01:18:24,170 - [Stranger] Oh sweet, oh damn, who is it? 1583 01:18:24,170 --> 01:18:25,890 - [Austin] It's Alex Honnald and Tommy Caldwell. 1584 01:18:25,890 --> 01:18:28,070 - [Stranger] Oh okay, never heard of 'em. 1585 01:18:28,070 --> 01:18:28,903 - [Austin] They're trying to make a name 1586 01:18:28,903 --> 01:18:30,409 for themselves really. 1587 01:18:30,409 --> 01:18:33,760 Tommy was cruisin, I mean I was having to like jostle 1588 01:18:33,760 --> 01:18:35,060 and move around the camera a bunch 1589 01:18:35,060 --> 01:18:36,510 just to try keep up with him. 1590 01:18:36,510 --> 01:18:39,620 Oh nice here he goes, about to charge the Stove Legs. 1591 01:18:39,620 --> 01:18:41,240 - [Tommy] I was getting a little too psyched up, 1592 01:18:41,240 --> 01:18:44,510 like I was letting it get out of my comfort zone 1593 01:18:44,510 --> 01:18:45,980 in terms of how fast I was going. 1594 01:18:45,980 --> 01:18:47,780 - [Alex] Gonna have to untie and pull the rope through 1595 01:18:47,780 --> 01:18:50,120 to undo one prusiks we do. 1596 01:18:50,120 --> 01:18:51,870 So I had just taken the grigri off. 1597 01:18:54,130 --> 01:18:56,900 - [Austin] Let's see, there he is. 1598 01:18:56,900 --> 01:18:58,800 - [Tommy] And I just like slipped out. 1599 01:19:05,590 --> 01:19:06,640 - [Austin] Holy shit. 1600 01:19:09,050 --> 01:19:12,442 Dude Tommy just took a fucking monstrous whipper, 1601 01:19:12,442 --> 01:19:14,250 like 100 feet. 1602 01:19:14,250 --> 01:19:15,780 I'm like, I can't tell, 1603 01:19:15,780 --> 01:19:18,670 he's climbing back up to Alex right now. 1604 01:19:18,670 --> 01:19:21,493 It was like right when I was shifting the frame. 1605 01:19:22,440 --> 01:19:24,120 - [Tommy] I just fell until I yanked against Alex 1606 01:19:24,120 --> 01:19:26,220 who's tied into the other end of the rope. 1607 01:19:28,080 --> 01:19:29,063 And then I just started climbing right away. 1608 01:19:29,063 --> 01:19:31,270 - [Alex] Dude you whipped 100 feet, you were literally like 1609 01:19:31,270 --> 01:19:33,810 oh I hate that I always do that and then you swung over 1610 01:19:33,810 --> 01:19:36,958 and punched back through and I was like oh my God, 1611 01:19:36,958 --> 01:19:37,958 that was outrageous. 1612 01:19:39,580 --> 01:19:41,630 - [Austin] It's crazy, even with taking a huge fall, 1613 01:19:41,630 --> 01:19:45,983 they're still gonna maybe go faster then they have before. 1614 01:19:47,590 --> 01:19:49,010 - [Alex] After Tommy took his 100 footer, 1615 01:19:49,010 --> 01:19:50,940 up higher on the route I slipped out of a crack 1616 01:19:50,940 --> 01:19:52,950 while short fixed and probably would have 1617 01:19:52,950 --> 01:19:57,950 taken a 50 or 60 footer but I caught the rope with my hands. 1618 01:20:02,080 --> 01:20:04,770 I just don't really know, I don't really know what happened 1619 01:20:04,770 --> 01:20:06,500 but I did rope burn my hand a little bit 1620 01:20:06,500 --> 01:20:08,150 and tore a chunk out of a finger. 1621 01:20:15,120 --> 01:20:18,787 (rope sliding against rock) 1622 01:20:20,131 --> 01:20:22,110 (Alex breathing heavily) 1623 01:20:22,110 --> 01:20:22,943 Yeah buddy! 1624 01:20:24,610 --> 01:20:25,443 Nice work. 1625 01:20:25,443 --> 01:20:28,860 Two, 31, that was a lot faster 1626 01:20:28,860 --> 01:20:33,860 but really like not that cool, we kinda botched. 1627 01:20:35,310 --> 01:20:36,570 - [Austin] Does it hurt? 1628 01:20:36,570 --> 01:20:40,000 - Yeah I mean it burns, I mean it's like a huge open hole. 1629 01:20:40,000 --> 01:20:41,510 On the other hand, I self arrest, 1630 01:20:41,510 --> 01:20:43,440 I basically caught the rope and caught myself 1631 01:20:43,440 --> 01:20:45,270 rather than take a hundred footer 1632 01:20:45,270 --> 01:20:47,150 which is definitely a big plus. 1633 01:20:47,150 --> 01:20:49,450 - Yeah we fell in the same spot. 1634 01:20:49,450 --> 01:20:50,693 - Was that the exact same spot? 1635 01:20:50,693 --> 01:20:51,526 - Yeah. 1636 01:20:51,526 --> 01:20:52,656 - That's crazy. - Exact same spot. 1637 01:20:52,656 --> 01:20:53,533 - That's crazy. 1638 01:20:53,533 --> 01:20:54,690 - Dude it was at least a hundred feet. 1639 01:20:54,690 --> 01:20:57,600 I was like, I'm still falling, I'm still falling, 1640 01:20:57,600 --> 01:20:59,460 I was like I hope Alex didn't just untie 1641 01:20:59,460 --> 01:21:01,100 and I just like fall to my death. 1642 01:21:01,100 --> 01:21:03,373 I had time to think about all that. 1643 01:21:04,970 --> 01:21:06,850 - Doesn't feel quite as fun today. 1644 01:21:06,850 --> 01:21:08,283 - No it was minorly traumatizing. 1645 01:21:08,283 --> 01:21:11,400 - We're broke now, we're kinda horrified. 1646 01:21:11,400 --> 01:21:13,450 Man oh man, what a morning. 1647 01:21:13,450 --> 01:21:14,283 - Yup. 1648 01:21:15,980 --> 01:21:16,910 - It's a little horrifying too 'cause the people 1649 01:21:16,910 --> 01:21:19,670 that are like watching today being like oh this is cool, 1650 01:21:19,670 --> 01:21:20,690 and we're both like-- 1651 01:21:20,690 --> 01:21:23,010 - I wonder if anybody was watching when I fell massively. 1652 01:21:23,010 --> 01:21:24,853 - I know, I hope nobody saw that shit. 1653 01:21:25,833 --> 01:21:26,666 - Yeah. 1654 01:21:26,666 --> 01:21:30,096 (children speaking over each other) 1655 01:21:30,096 --> 01:21:31,679 - From the outside. 1656 01:21:33,580 --> 01:21:38,580 - Okay, I'm gonna get you, I'm gonna get you, who's calling? 1657 01:21:40,320 --> 01:21:41,153 - [Youngest Child] Me. 1658 01:21:41,153 --> 01:21:41,986 - Who is? 1659 01:21:41,986 --> 01:21:42,880 Your calling? 1660 01:21:42,880 --> 01:21:43,713 Hello? 1661 01:21:45,190 --> 01:21:47,159 Hey how's it going? 1662 01:21:47,159 --> 01:21:48,610 - Daddy! 1663 01:21:48,610 --> 01:21:50,359 - Wanna say hi to daddy? 1664 01:21:50,359 --> 01:21:52,707 - Hi daddy, hi daddy. 1665 01:21:52,707 --> 01:21:55,480 - How fast did you climb today? 1666 01:21:55,480 --> 01:21:57,572 - [Tommy On Phone] We climbed it in two hours 1667 01:21:57,572 --> 01:21:59,295 and 31 minutes. 1668 01:21:59,295 --> 01:22:00,628 - How'd it go today? 1669 01:22:00,628 --> 01:22:02,128 - [Oldest Child] I wanna be a base jumper! 1670 01:22:02,128 --> 01:22:03,140 - [Tommy On Phone] It was definitely 1671 01:22:03,140 --> 01:22:04,583 slightly less than ideal. 1672 01:22:06,787 --> 01:22:09,313 I took a really big fall and Alex also fell 1673 01:22:10,450 --> 01:22:13,250 and grabbed the rope and tore a huge hole in his finger. 1674 01:22:14,664 --> 01:22:15,497 - Awesome. 1675 01:22:17,483 --> 01:22:19,590 Are you okay? 1676 01:22:19,590 --> 01:22:22,040 - [Tommy On Phone] Yeah, yeah, I was safe. 1677 01:22:22,040 --> 01:22:24,740 We've got it set up so we're only running it out 1678 01:22:24,740 --> 01:22:27,045 where it's clean and stuff. 1679 01:22:27,045 --> 01:22:30,930 So taking a big fall is, not that dangerous. 1680 01:22:30,930 --> 01:22:34,420 - When Tommy mentioned the speed record, 1681 01:22:34,420 --> 01:22:37,695 I wasn't really attracted to the idea. 1682 01:22:37,695 --> 01:22:39,620 (Tommys speech muffled on phone) 1683 01:22:39,620 --> 01:22:42,960 When Quinn had her accident and then Hans fell off The Nose 1684 01:22:42,960 --> 01:22:45,050 it was just an eye opener, 1685 01:22:45,050 --> 01:22:47,380 like oh man you can get really messed up 1686 01:22:48,340 --> 01:22:51,390 but Tommy loves climbing with Alex, 1687 01:22:51,390 --> 01:22:53,190 they're kind of unstoppable together 1688 01:22:53,190 --> 01:22:55,640 and they truly believe it's safe. 1689 01:22:55,640 --> 01:22:58,450 I don't know speed climbing very well 1690 01:22:58,450 --> 01:23:00,870 but my understanding is like you guys are gonna climb fast 1691 01:23:00,870 --> 01:23:02,750 and you have this dialed and you know what you're doing 1692 01:23:02,750 --> 01:23:06,895 so you just don't fall but then they both fell in one day. 1693 01:23:06,895 --> 01:23:08,182 Yeah. 1694 01:23:08,182 --> 01:23:10,100 - [Tommy On Phone] But we're not gonna do that anymore. 1695 01:23:10,100 --> 01:23:11,813 - Yeah but how do you avoid it? 1696 01:23:19,210 --> 01:23:21,470 - After taking those falls, 1697 01:23:21,470 --> 01:23:25,073 we felt like we needed to dial it back a little bit. 1698 01:23:26,190 --> 01:23:27,690 - This is where I whipped the other day 1699 01:23:27,690 --> 01:23:28,920 and Tommy whipped here. 1700 01:23:28,920 --> 01:23:31,423 - [Tommy] Even Alex seemed a bit shaken up. 1701 01:23:45,417 --> 01:23:49,334 - Gives the wrong impression of speed climbing. 1702 01:23:51,292 --> 01:23:52,125 Ah, two, 51. 1703 01:23:52,125 --> 01:23:53,780 - We didn't take any hundred foot falls today. 1704 01:23:53,780 --> 01:23:55,840 - Yeah and no injuries. 1705 01:23:55,840 --> 01:23:57,819 - Tommy and Alex, they're goin fast 1706 01:23:57,819 --> 01:24:01,740 but there's such a difference between going three hours fast 1707 01:24:01,740 --> 01:24:02,770 to breaking the record. 1708 01:24:02,770 --> 01:24:04,570 - I think it might be possible to get there 1709 01:24:04,570 --> 01:24:06,190 without redlining-- 1710 01:24:06,190 --> 01:24:08,710 - They kinda gotta get it together pretty quick here 1711 01:24:08,710 --> 01:24:12,090 I mean it's mid May and if it drags on into June, 1712 01:24:12,090 --> 01:24:14,467 it gets hot and it gets crowded. 1713 01:24:14,467 --> 01:24:15,529 - [Alex] Don't let it go. 1714 01:24:15,529 --> 01:24:18,753 - The Nose has just become so incredible popular, 1715 01:24:20,940 --> 01:24:23,220 everyone wants to do The Nose. 1716 01:24:23,220 --> 01:24:25,570 So you just get people from all over the world. 1717 01:24:26,480 --> 01:24:27,943 It's packed. 1718 01:24:29,770 --> 01:24:32,945 - Wouldn't be The Nose if we weren't jocking for position. 1719 01:24:32,945 --> 01:24:33,778 - [Austin] Get out of the way. 1720 01:24:33,778 --> 01:24:35,909 - [Brad] The wall climbers come up 1721 01:24:35,909 --> 01:24:39,534 and it gets frustrating passing five to 10 parties. 1722 01:24:39,534 --> 01:24:42,761 (speaking foreign language) 1723 01:24:42,761 --> 01:24:43,961 - Go Tommy go! 1724 01:24:43,961 --> 01:24:44,794 - Gracias. 1725 01:24:46,080 --> 01:24:48,840 - Kinda smells, reminds me of urine. 1726 01:24:48,840 --> 01:24:50,080 Welcome to The Nose huh. 1727 01:24:50,080 --> 01:24:51,720 - It really is kind of a challenge to try 1728 01:24:51,720 --> 01:24:53,840 to not get stuck behind people. 1729 01:24:53,840 --> 01:24:57,640 The strategy is, you don't ask to pass 1730 01:24:57,640 --> 01:25:02,640 but you're really friendly, you're like what's up guys? 1731 01:25:02,650 --> 01:25:05,310 Oh you're from Germany, sick, cool, yeah, 1732 01:25:05,310 --> 01:25:06,530 is it your first time out here? 1733 01:25:06,530 --> 01:25:07,950 And you're talking to them the whole time 1734 01:25:07,950 --> 01:25:10,220 and meanwhile you're just kinda slowly climbing through 1735 01:25:10,220 --> 01:25:13,010 their junction, before they know you're above 'em 1736 01:25:13,010 --> 01:25:15,170 and you're like all right guys, have fun, good luck 1737 01:25:15,170 --> 01:25:16,755 and you just keep climbing. 1738 01:25:16,755 --> 01:25:20,220 (speaking foreign language) 1739 01:25:20,220 --> 01:25:21,053 - Thanks man. 1740 01:25:21,053 --> 01:25:21,950 Where are you from? 1741 01:25:21,950 --> 01:25:22,783 - Netherlands. 1742 01:25:24,900 --> 01:25:25,733 - Have fun. 1743 01:25:25,733 --> 01:25:26,566 - You too. 1744 01:25:29,283 --> 01:25:30,200 - What was the time? 1745 01:25:30,200 --> 01:25:32,646 - Two, 25. - Two, 25. 1746 01:25:32,646 --> 01:25:33,479 - [Austin] Two, 25? 1747 01:25:33,479 --> 01:25:34,527 - Yeah. 1748 01:25:34,527 --> 01:25:35,360 - [Austin] Damn. 1749 01:25:35,360 --> 01:25:36,193 - Two, 25 is pretty good. 1750 01:25:36,193 --> 01:25:37,490 Should we go down and eat a sandwich? 1751 01:25:37,490 --> 01:25:38,684 Let's go see your kids. 1752 01:25:38,684 --> 01:25:39,517 - I know, my kids! 1753 01:25:39,517 --> 01:25:40,533 - I haven't seen your family yet. 1754 01:25:46,951 --> 01:25:50,951 (young girl speaking gibberish) 1755 01:26:00,503 --> 01:26:02,105 - Hi (laughs). 1756 01:26:02,105 --> 01:26:02,938 - Hey pits. 1757 01:26:02,938 --> 01:26:03,771 - Hey baby. 1758 01:26:03,771 --> 01:26:04,604 - Hey how's it going? 1759 01:26:04,604 --> 01:26:05,627 - Good, you remember me? 1760 01:26:05,627 --> 01:26:06,460 - I do, how you feeling? 1761 01:26:06,460 --> 01:26:07,400 - Good, did you watch us at all? 1762 01:26:07,400 --> 01:26:09,432 - [Rebecca] Think I saw you towards the top. 1763 01:26:09,432 --> 01:26:10,265 - [Brad] How's it going? 1764 01:26:10,265 --> 01:26:11,594 - [Tommy] Oh yeah, Brad. 1765 01:26:11,594 --> 01:26:12,560 - Did you guys do The Nose? 1766 01:26:12,560 --> 01:26:15,007 - Our time today was two, 25. 1767 01:26:15,007 --> 01:26:16,110 - What was your time? 1768 01:26:16,110 --> 01:26:18,034 - Five minutes away, yeah. 1769 01:26:18,034 --> 01:26:20,090 (dramatic music) 1770 01:26:20,090 --> 01:26:21,420 - [Tommy] So what are we doin? 1771 01:26:21,420 --> 01:26:22,990 Are we goin all? 1772 01:26:22,990 --> 01:26:23,860 - Let's go fast, yeah. 1773 01:26:23,860 --> 01:26:26,120 - Go fast, let's feel the burn. 1774 01:26:26,120 --> 01:26:29,490 (birds chirping) 1775 01:26:29,490 --> 01:26:32,957 - We gotta make sure they start at the exact same foot 1776 01:26:32,957 --> 01:26:34,740 of the root that we start at. 1777 01:26:34,740 --> 01:26:37,313 Making sure all the clocks work. 1778 01:26:38,380 --> 01:26:39,950 - Seems like they might break the record 1779 01:26:39,950 --> 01:26:41,430 but we'll see, it's a little hot 1780 01:26:41,430 --> 01:26:42,810 and there's some parties on the wall 1781 01:26:42,810 --> 01:26:46,363 so it might be a little more difficult today. 1782 01:26:47,810 --> 01:26:50,230 When me and Brad were going for it we were nervous, 1783 01:26:50,230 --> 01:26:53,230 like oh boy this is gonna be stressful. 1784 01:26:53,230 --> 01:26:55,950 Today, yeah these guys are the ones with all the stress. 1785 01:26:55,950 --> 01:26:57,490 - Oh we don't have any stress. 1786 01:26:57,490 --> 01:26:59,310 - We just get to chill and watch. 1787 01:26:59,310 --> 01:27:00,143 That's good. 1788 01:27:00,143 --> 01:27:01,960 - Did you guys start from this pedestal or that one? 1789 01:27:01,960 --> 01:27:03,380 - Brad would monkey up this way. 1790 01:27:03,380 --> 01:27:05,150 - It kinda makes more sense to start right here 1791 01:27:05,150 --> 01:27:06,250 and just bam, bam, bam. 1792 01:27:06,250 --> 01:27:08,350 - I mean you're the professional (laughs). 1793 01:27:15,890 --> 01:27:16,723 - Okay, ready? 1794 01:27:18,220 --> 01:27:19,081 - Go. 1795 01:27:19,081 --> 01:27:21,831 (dramatic music) 1796 01:27:22,790 --> 01:27:23,680 - [Alex] Remember the Hans saying, 1797 01:27:23,680 --> 01:27:27,869 start out slow, go, go, go, start out fast, just won't last. 1798 01:27:27,869 --> 01:27:29,561 - And there they go, history begins. 1799 01:27:29,561 --> 01:27:32,311 (dramatic music) 1800 01:27:33,371 --> 01:27:34,540 (speech muffled by wind) 1801 01:27:34,540 --> 01:27:35,616 - [Jim] Taking the swing. 1802 01:27:35,616 --> 01:27:36,589 - [Brad] Oh yeah. 1803 01:27:36,589 --> 01:27:39,262 (Jim cheering) 1804 01:27:39,262 --> 01:27:42,012 (dramatic music) 1805 01:27:45,988 --> 01:27:50,988 ♪ Clock started, nothing left but tie me down ♪ 1806 01:27:53,951 --> 01:27:56,701 (dramatic music) 1807 01:28:08,828 --> 01:28:11,178 - All right Tommy, tell me when you get to that piece 1808 01:28:11,178 --> 01:28:13,314 and I'll swing over. 1809 01:28:13,314 --> 01:28:14,231 - Okay man. 1810 01:28:15,991 --> 01:28:20,324 ♪ We can call the whole thing, down ♪ 1811 01:28:21,715 --> 01:28:22,751 - [Alex] Nice work Tommy. 1812 01:28:22,751 --> 01:28:24,418 - [Tommy] Thank you. 1813 01:28:25,860 --> 01:28:27,740 - Tommy and Alex left all their gear at the base 1814 01:28:27,740 --> 01:28:29,567 so we're bootying it (laughs). 1815 01:28:31,175 --> 01:28:32,680 They don't need it, they get free stuff 1816 01:28:32,680 --> 01:28:35,567 but me, I work and steal for my living (laughs). 1817 01:28:38,110 --> 01:28:38,950 - Let's see what their time is. 1818 01:28:38,950 --> 01:28:41,088 - They did really fast on the sickle bit. 1819 01:28:41,088 --> 01:28:43,880 - They're at 30, almost 38 minutes. 1820 01:28:43,880 --> 01:28:46,360 - [Austin] That morning there was an audience. 1821 01:28:46,360 --> 01:28:48,700 Becca was there with Alex's girlfriend Sanni. 1822 01:28:48,700 --> 01:28:49,533 - Go daddy! 1823 01:28:52,130 --> 01:28:52,963 - I think he heard you. 1824 01:28:52,963 --> 01:28:54,920 - They got Hans sitting out there, 1825 01:28:54,920 --> 01:28:56,801 broken ankles and all. 1826 01:28:56,801 --> 01:28:58,728 (Hans cheering) 1827 01:28:58,728 --> 01:28:59,561 (Brad booing) 1828 01:28:59,561 --> 01:29:00,953 And Brad and Jim, 1829 01:29:02,510 --> 01:29:03,740 secretly hoping that they'd watch them 1830 01:29:03,740 --> 01:29:05,518 make a bunch of mistakes. 1831 01:29:05,518 --> 01:29:07,840 Is there a part of you guys, like I hope they stubbied? 1832 01:29:07,840 --> 01:29:09,150 - No. 1833 01:29:09,150 --> 01:29:09,983 - Yeah. 1834 01:29:09,983 --> 01:29:10,979 - I don't think so. 1835 01:29:10,979 --> 01:29:11,812 (both laughing) 1836 01:29:11,812 --> 01:29:13,123 - Do you see daddy? 1837 01:29:14,630 --> 01:29:16,829 Do you see daddy in there? 1838 01:29:16,829 --> 01:29:18,729 - Fit in the boot. 1839 01:29:18,729 --> 01:29:20,400 - [Rebecca And Sonni] He's on the boot (laughs) 1840 01:29:20,400 --> 01:29:22,570 - Do you know where the boot is kids? 1841 01:29:22,570 --> 01:29:24,983 You can see a perfect little boot up there. 1842 01:29:28,110 --> 01:29:31,020 - [Tommy] The Boot Flake is always an exciting moment. 1843 01:29:31,020 --> 01:29:32,976 - [Alex] Yeah this is my favorite pitch. 1844 01:29:32,976 --> 01:29:33,809 - [Tommy] Yeah. 1845 01:29:33,809 --> 01:29:34,642 - [Alex] Yeah. 1846 01:29:34,642 --> 01:29:36,390 - [Tommy] It's like my least favorite pitch. 1847 01:29:36,390 --> 01:29:39,263 Just get grip, thinking about quitting when I'm up there. 1848 01:29:39,263 --> 01:29:42,430 (slow dramatic music) 1849 01:29:53,930 --> 01:29:55,510 - [Jim] Tommy places a cam on the boot. 1850 01:29:55,510 --> 01:29:57,203 - [Brad] Oh yup, there he goes. 1851 01:29:57,203 --> 01:29:58,786 - What is he doing? 1852 01:30:00,480 --> 01:30:02,100 I bet that makes Becca happy. 1853 01:30:02,100 --> 01:30:02,933 - Yup. 1854 01:30:04,980 --> 01:30:06,200 - [Rebecca] Give it to me kiddo, 1855 01:30:06,200 --> 01:30:07,650 daddy's standing on the boot. 1856 01:30:09,364 --> 01:30:11,410 (spectators cheering) 1857 01:30:11,410 --> 01:30:12,770 - [Jim] He lowers down to grab it 1858 01:30:12,770 --> 01:30:14,213 before Alex does the swing. 1859 01:30:15,860 --> 01:30:19,050 That's definitely a time waster right there. 1860 01:30:19,050 --> 01:30:20,250 - [Brad] Yeah. 1861 01:30:20,250 --> 01:30:21,860 - Okay here we go. 1862 01:30:21,860 --> 01:30:23,010 - [Tommy] We've been checking the time 1863 01:30:23,010 --> 01:30:24,880 after Alex does the King Swing, 1864 01:30:24,880 --> 01:30:26,570 it was an hour and one minute. 1865 01:30:26,570 --> 01:30:29,020 - [Alex] We were five minutes faster than before. 1866 01:30:29,020 --> 01:30:30,650 I just knew it was game on, it was time to go 1867 01:30:30,650 --> 01:30:31,600 as fast as I could. 1868 01:30:32,760 --> 01:30:35,640 - Oh man they got someone starting up the Great Roof 1869 01:30:35,640 --> 01:30:37,783 in a minute, might get hosed. 1870 01:30:39,220 --> 01:30:40,910 - When I was getting up to the Great Roof, 1871 01:30:40,910 --> 01:30:44,510 these two Bask women who we passed twice before in the week 1872 01:30:44,510 --> 01:30:46,860 had just finished aid climbing the pitch 1873 01:30:46,860 --> 01:30:48,670 and so there was already rope hanging down it 1874 01:30:48,670 --> 01:30:49,720 and gear all over it. 1875 01:30:50,630 --> 01:30:54,297 (speaking foreign language) 1876 01:30:57,800 --> 01:30:59,680 It's mildly annoying when you can't put your fingers 1877 01:30:59,680 --> 01:31:01,323 into the places you want but it means that 1878 01:31:01,323 --> 01:31:04,617 I can just pull on their quick draws and just climb through. 1879 01:31:04,617 --> 01:31:07,034 - [Foreign Woman] Go Alex go! 1880 01:31:11,678 --> 01:31:15,345 (speaking foreign language) 1881 01:31:18,042 --> 01:31:18,875 - [Tommy] What's that? 1882 01:31:18,875 --> 01:31:19,708 - Watch me good here. 1883 01:31:25,243 --> 01:31:28,910 (speaking foreign language) 1884 01:31:32,180 --> 01:31:33,600 Got the lines fixed Tommy! 1885 01:31:33,600 --> 01:31:35,413 - [Tommy] Alex gets to the anchor, short fixes there 1886 01:31:35,413 --> 01:31:37,743 and then I just jug as fast as I can. 1887 01:31:39,294 --> 01:31:42,961 (speaking foreign language) 1888 01:31:44,700 --> 01:31:47,610 - When I got to the Great Roof, we're right on pace 1889 01:31:47,610 --> 01:31:50,750 for the record but then I just start getting tangled 1890 01:31:50,750 --> 01:31:52,873 in the equipment from the Bask ladies. 1891 01:31:53,971 --> 01:31:54,804 - [Foreign Woman] Go Tommy go! 1892 01:31:54,804 --> 01:31:57,010 - I have to switch my whole system. 1893 01:31:57,010 --> 01:31:58,720 Putting jumars on, taking 'em off, 1894 01:31:58,720 --> 01:32:00,380 figuring out where to put 'em, 1895 01:32:00,380 --> 01:32:02,557 there's this other rope, I'm worried it's gonna get stuck, 1896 01:32:02,557 --> 01:32:04,023 just clustering. 1897 01:32:20,510 --> 01:32:21,890 Oh fuck. 1898 01:32:21,890 --> 01:32:24,300 I lowered out and then I went to pull the loop 1899 01:32:24,300 --> 01:32:26,060 but it was just caught. 1900 01:32:26,060 --> 01:32:29,070 The only quick solution I could think of was to untie 1901 01:32:29,070 --> 01:32:32,130 and pull the rope as fast as I could and then tie back in. 1902 01:32:32,130 --> 01:32:35,490 Alex had gotten stopped because he didn't have any rope left 1903 01:32:35,490 --> 01:32:36,930 he's just kinda like waiting for me 1904 01:32:36,930 --> 01:32:39,254 right in the middle of the cruxxed out pitch. 1905 01:32:39,254 --> 01:32:40,410 - [Tommy] Something got twisted in that anchor 1906 01:32:40,410 --> 01:32:41,884 I have to untie. 1907 01:32:41,884 --> 01:32:42,717 - [Alex] Sorry about that. 1908 01:32:42,717 --> 01:32:43,910 No, it's not your fault. 1909 01:32:43,910 --> 01:32:45,106 - What's going on? 1910 01:32:45,106 --> 01:32:46,190 - You know where they're at Hans? 1911 01:32:46,190 --> 01:32:47,860 - Alex is right where I fell. 1912 01:32:50,830 --> 01:32:55,605 - So I pull my end then I just start trying to tie back in. 1913 01:32:55,605 --> 01:32:58,355 (dramatic music) 1914 01:32:59,820 --> 01:33:01,130 - [Alex] Every time you speed climb The Nose 1915 01:33:01,130 --> 01:33:02,170 you run into situations 1916 01:33:02,170 --> 01:33:03,770 that you haven't necessarily dealt with before 1917 01:33:03,770 --> 01:33:05,330 there's always some kind of weird thing 1918 01:33:05,330 --> 01:33:07,820 and the real test is how quickly you can deal with it 1919 01:33:07,820 --> 01:33:10,700 and manage and then just keep moving forward. 1920 01:33:10,700 --> 01:33:12,060 It was definitely the right call for Tommy 1921 01:33:12,060 --> 01:33:13,810 just to look at, be like oh here's what I need to do, 1922 01:33:13,810 --> 01:33:16,606 untie, pull, pull, pull, retie, here we go, keep going. 1923 01:33:16,606 --> 01:33:18,816 It's like, good improvising by Tommy. 1924 01:33:18,816 --> 01:33:21,566 (dramatic music) 1925 01:33:24,740 --> 01:33:25,993 - Oh shit. 1926 01:33:25,993 --> 01:33:28,743 (dramatic music) 1927 01:33:31,510 --> 01:33:32,931 - [Alex] Nice work, way to deal. 1928 01:33:32,931 --> 01:33:33,764 - Okay, adios. 1929 01:33:33,764 --> 01:33:34,931 - Okay, adios. 1930 01:33:36,386 --> 01:33:38,010 - [Tommy] That probably wasted two minutes. 1931 01:33:38,010 --> 01:33:39,310 - [Austin] Look at him go. 1932 01:33:40,940 --> 01:33:43,810 - [Tommy] But you know Alex just started to boogey up 1933 01:33:43,810 --> 01:33:47,323 the steep cracks at the top like nobody else ever had. 1934 01:33:48,550 --> 01:33:51,360 Climbing like a beast in no fall terrain 1935 01:33:52,200 --> 01:33:53,903 and we made up tons of time there. 1936 01:33:54,780 --> 01:33:57,060 - [Alex] On each of the last six pitches 1937 01:33:57,060 --> 01:33:59,500 I have positions where I could probably take 1938 01:33:59,500 --> 01:34:01,153 a hundred to a 200 foot fall. 1939 01:34:03,940 --> 01:34:05,660 So I didn't look at any splits or anything 1940 01:34:05,660 --> 01:34:07,170 you don't really wanna think about pace to much 1941 01:34:07,170 --> 01:34:09,800 you wanna just go as hard as you can and just execute. 1942 01:34:09,800 --> 01:34:11,120 Just focus on what we're doing 1943 01:34:11,120 --> 01:34:13,400 and then just find out on top. 1944 01:34:13,400 --> 01:34:15,207 - [Brad] Shit dude he is just fucking-- 1945 01:34:15,207 --> 01:34:16,380 - Wow it's amazing. 1946 01:34:16,380 --> 01:34:17,740 - Tommy's at the Wild Stance, 1947 01:34:17,740 --> 01:34:20,860 Alex is on the final Bolt Ladder. 1948 01:34:20,860 --> 01:34:23,110 - [Alex] The last pitch is like the full glorious sprint 1949 01:34:23,110 --> 01:34:24,620 to the finish line. 1950 01:34:24,620 --> 01:34:27,033 It's completely exposed, totally outrageous. 1951 01:34:27,940 --> 01:34:31,060 You're hand over handing bolts, you're like (grunts), 1952 01:34:31,060 --> 01:34:33,660 just leave it all on the table, punch it to the top. 1953 01:34:35,720 --> 01:34:37,235 It feels so heroic. 1954 01:34:37,235 --> 01:34:40,540 (spectators cheering) 1955 01:34:40,540 --> 01:34:43,040 - Can't tell me, I'm running to the top, get some! 1956 01:34:44,424 --> 01:34:45,850 (spectators cheering) 1957 01:34:45,850 --> 01:34:47,820 - I wasn't checking my watch at all 1958 01:34:47,820 --> 01:34:50,707 I was just trying to go as fast as I physically can. 1959 01:34:51,720 --> 01:34:53,480 - [Alex] I'm just running uphill with a bunch of weight 1960 01:34:53,480 --> 01:34:55,660 hanging off me and then the goal is just to pull the rope 1961 01:34:55,660 --> 01:34:57,637 as tight as you can and then start pulling on Tommy. 1962 01:34:57,637 --> 01:34:58,470 Yo Tommy! 1963 01:35:00,000 --> 01:35:02,910 (Alex breathing heavily) 1964 01:35:02,910 --> 01:35:03,743 Come on Tommy! 1965 01:35:04,700 --> 01:35:07,494 - I see him, he's pulling, hand over handing. 1966 01:35:07,494 --> 01:35:08,475 - [Rebecca] Let me see. 1967 01:35:08,475 --> 01:35:09,308 - [Sanni] Come on Tommy! 1968 01:35:09,308 --> 01:35:11,000 - The tree is in sight, I'm just, 1969 01:35:11,000 --> 01:35:13,640 I'm running up the final slabs as fast as I can. 1970 01:35:13,640 --> 01:35:14,564 - [Alex] Come on Tommy! 1971 01:35:14,564 --> 01:35:16,603 - All of a sudden I just get jerked to a halt. 1972 01:35:22,210 --> 01:35:25,510 I just started panicking, I was like, oh no! 1973 01:35:25,510 --> 01:35:26,660 - [Alex] Come on Tommy! 1974 01:35:29,460 --> 01:35:32,280 - And again I had to friggin untie the rope 1975 01:35:32,280 --> 01:35:34,970 and it probably took me like two or three times as long 1976 01:35:34,970 --> 01:35:36,550 to untie as it should have. 1977 01:35:39,710 --> 01:35:40,783 - [Alex] Come on Tommy! 1978 01:35:42,003 --> 01:35:45,273 - Finally got it untied and ran to the tree. 1979 01:35:50,900 --> 01:35:51,900 - [Alex] Yeah buddy! 1980 01:35:55,490 --> 01:35:57,120 - [Austin] When Tommy ran up to the tree without the rope 1981 01:35:57,120 --> 01:35:58,593 I was like that's unorthodox. 1982 01:36:00,584 --> 01:36:02,510 - [Alex] Did you just untie at the end? 1983 01:36:02,510 --> 01:36:04,397 - Yeah my rope got caught. 1984 01:36:04,397 --> 01:36:06,074 - [Alex] Well, good call 1985 01:36:06,074 --> 01:36:08,270 - I didn't even really realize what had happened. 1986 01:36:08,270 --> 01:36:10,353 Alex just kind of casually walks back. 1987 01:36:11,280 --> 01:36:12,870 Two, 10, 14. 1988 01:36:12,870 --> 01:36:13,703 - Two, 10, 14. 1989 01:36:13,703 --> 01:36:16,684 (spectators cheering) 1990 01:36:16,684 --> 01:36:17,601 - Hi daddy! 1991 01:36:20,600 --> 01:36:21,510 - Say good job daddy! 1992 01:36:21,510 --> 01:36:23,480 He's standing on top. 1993 01:36:23,480 --> 01:36:25,073 - Well man, nice dude. - boom. 1994 01:36:26,197 --> 01:36:27,090 That felt good. 1995 01:36:27,090 --> 01:36:27,923 - Yeah, yeah. 1996 01:36:27,923 --> 01:36:29,490 - It still wasn't quite perfect though. 1997 01:36:29,490 --> 01:36:30,807 - Yeah, I was like- 1998 01:36:30,807 --> 01:36:33,273 - Got stuck several times and that was kinda like uh. 1999 01:36:33,273 --> 01:36:35,459 - That was good though, we got the record. 2000 01:36:35,459 --> 01:36:36,568 - You got it back! 2001 01:36:36,568 --> 01:36:37,810 - Nice work. 2002 01:36:37,810 --> 01:36:39,270 That was sick. 2003 01:36:39,270 --> 01:36:42,469 - Yeah, we got it by, kind of a lot. 2004 01:36:42,469 --> 01:36:43,302 - Almost 10 minutes. 2005 01:36:43,302 --> 01:36:44,215 - Yeah. - Yeah. 2006 01:36:44,215 --> 01:36:45,255 Yeah, legit. 2007 01:36:45,255 --> 01:36:47,005 Now we just gotta shave 10 more. 2008 01:36:47,005 --> 01:36:48,105 - Oh Jesus. 2009 01:36:48,105 --> 01:36:49,742 - That definitely hurt a lot more. 2010 01:36:49,742 --> 01:36:51,790 (gentle music) 2011 01:36:51,790 --> 01:36:54,516 Breaking somebodies record is fun, 2012 01:36:54,516 --> 01:36:57,310 it's nice to one up your friends or whatever. 2013 01:36:57,310 --> 01:36:58,640 Brad's calling. 2014 01:36:58,640 --> 01:36:59,473 - [Tommy] Oh nice. 2015 01:36:59,473 --> 01:37:00,850 - Brad Gobright. 2016 01:37:00,850 --> 01:37:03,480 - Congratulations, you did it! 2017 01:37:03,480 --> 01:37:05,600 - Yo, we took it, we took it, 2018 01:37:05,600 --> 01:37:09,790 but not quite by enough for it to be out of the question 2019 01:37:09,790 --> 01:37:10,700 for you guys though you know? 2020 01:37:10,700 --> 01:37:12,000 We might have to go again. 2021 01:37:13,490 --> 01:37:15,650 But the idea is that you're seeking out that feeling 2022 01:37:15,650 --> 01:37:17,120 of perfection where they're like, 2023 01:37:17,120 --> 01:37:20,150 this climb went as well as any climb can go 2024 01:37:20,150 --> 01:37:22,190 and so when we got to the top in two, 10, 2025 01:37:22,190 --> 01:37:23,850 we're like oh that felt really good 2026 01:37:23,850 --> 01:37:27,990 and we did it pretty quickly but it wasn't quite perfect. 2027 01:37:27,990 --> 01:37:29,950 - Yeah I think both of us were immediately like, 2028 01:37:29,950 --> 01:37:33,890 oh we can do better than that, we're not done with this. 2029 01:37:33,890 --> 01:37:36,000 Does seem possible to go faster. 2030 01:37:36,000 --> 01:37:38,050 - Yeah I mean we could for sure shave 10 minutes off that. 2031 01:37:38,050 --> 01:37:39,951 - I feel like we're just getting close to our potential 2032 01:37:39,951 --> 01:37:44,193 at this point so that two hour mark is very enticing. 2033 01:37:46,550 --> 01:37:49,550 We just decided that we should keep going, 2034 01:37:49,550 --> 01:37:51,293 try and do it in under two hours. 2035 01:37:52,950 --> 01:37:55,230 - You know I think any reasonable person 2036 01:37:55,230 --> 01:37:58,890 would break The Nose speed record and hang up their rack 2037 01:37:58,890 --> 01:38:02,500 and they'd be done but Tommy and Alex 2038 01:38:02,500 --> 01:38:04,730 they wanted to break two hours. 2039 01:38:04,730 --> 01:38:07,060 It's kind of this mythical time 2040 01:38:07,060 --> 01:38:08,270 that people have wondered about like, 2041 01:38:08,270 --> 01:38:10,070 oh is it even possible? 2042 01:38:10,070 --> 01:38:11,860 - My thought is that if we break two hours 2043 01:38:11,860 --> 01:38:14,330 that'll be getting pretty close to this is perfect, 2044 01:38:14,330 --> 01:38:15,580 like this is the best that we can do. 2045 01:38:15,580 --> 01:38:18,160 - It's gonna be real hard, like this is gonna hurt 2046 01:38:18,160 --> 01:38:19,660 but we're gonna try again tomorrow and who knows? 2047 01:38:19,660 --> 01:38:23,193 Maybe we'll just cut off another 10 minutes. 2048 01:38:24,264 --> 01:38:27,075 - [Austin] Yeah fellas! 2049 01:38:27,075 --> 01:38:27,908 - Yeah! 2050 01:38:29,490 --> 01:38:31,270 Hey, what's happening? 2051 01:38:31,270 --> 01:38:33,023 How's it goin buddy? 2052 01:38:33,989 --> 01:38:34,822 - The baby's sleeping. 2053 01:38:34,822 --> 01:38:35,713 - Oh sorry. 2054 01:38:35,713 --> 01:38:38,763 - But you did good, nice job. 2055 01:38:38,763 --> 01:38:40,089 - Yo Hans, what happened? 2056 01:38:40,089 --> 01:38:41,897 (everyone laughing) 2057 01:38:41,897 --> 01:38:44,830 - Don't insult the history book here. 2058 01:38:44,830 --> 01:38:47,580 Seven hour, six hour, and five hour mark 2059 01:38:47,580 --> 01:38:51,420 all broken by Peter Croft and Dave Schultz. 2060 01:38:51,420 --> 01:38:55,440 Dean Potter and Timmy O'Neill broke the four hour mark, 2061 01:38:55,440 --> 01:38:58,280 Yuji and Hans broke the three hour mark, 2062 01:38:58,280 --> 01:39:02,702 Alex hasn't broken an hour marks, oh that's gotta hurt. 2063 01:39:02,702 --> 01:39:05,285 (all laughing) 2064 01:39:06,187 --> 01:39:07,793 - That's fair, yeah. 2065 01:39:08,860 --> 01:39:10,214 - [Tommy] So yeah, go again tomorrow? 2066 01:39:10,214 --> 01:39:11,381 - [Alex] Yeah. 2067 01:39:14,700 --> 01:39:17,340 - Two experienced climbers died when they plummeted off 2068 01:39:17,340 --> 01:39:19,277 El Capitan in Yosemite this morning. 2069 01:39:19,277 --> 01:39:21,340 - [Female Reporter] The two climbers were attempting El Cap 2070 01:39:21,340 --> 01:39:23,070 when something went horribly wrong. 2071 01:39:23,070 --> 01:39:25,740 The climbers, identified as 46 year old Jason Wells 2072 01:39:25,740 --> 01:39:30,010 of Boulder, Colorado and 42 year, a Tim Klein from Palmdale. 2073 01:39:30,010 --> 01:39:31,950 Rangers still figuring out just how 2074 01:39:31,950 --> 01:39:33,823 these climbers fell Saturday. 2075 01:39:36,710 --> 01:39:38,010 - [Alex] The next morning we were getting ready 2076 01:39:38,010 --> 01:39:39,700 for another attempt on The Nose 2077 01:39:39,700 --> 01:39:42,970 and we found out there was an accident on El Cap. 2078 01:39:42,970 --> 01:39:45,710 Two super experienced climbers, Jason and Tim, 2079 01:39:45,710 --> 01:39:48,630 they were using speed climbing tactics on another route 2080 01:39:48,630 --> 01:39:51,630 call the Salathe which is just to the left of The Nose. 2081 01:39:51,630 --> 01:39:53,540 It's unclear exactly what happened 2082 01:39:53,540 --> 01:39:55,613 but somehow fell off the wall. 2083 01:39:56,680 --> 01:39:58,553 It was like, woof, pretty heavy. 2084 01:39:59,472 --> 01:40:01,000 An accident like this, is you never know 2085 01:40:01,000 --> 01:40:03,480 if maybe they did have gear and maybe it pulled 2086 01:40:03,480 --> 01:40:06,010 or maybe a rock rolled, cut the rope, 2087 01:40:06,010 --> 01:40:07,240 you know what I mean, there's so many variables. 2088 01:40:07,240 --> 01:40:09,270 I mean it definitely makes you pause 2089 01:40:09,270 --> 01:40:11,210 and think about your choices a little bit. 2090 01:40:11,210 --> 01:40:13,849 - Are you guys thinking you're gonna climb tomorrow? 2091 01:40:13,849 --> 01:40:14,950 - I don't know. 2092 01:40:14,950 --> 01:40:17,070 But the reality is, if you're speed climbing 2093 01:40:17,070 --> 01:40:19,020 on The Nose you've already thought about 2094 01:40:19,020 --> 01:40:20,670 how an accident could occur, 2095 01:40:20,670 --> 01:40:22,870 what it would be like to fall off. 2096 01:40:22,870 --> 01:40:24,950 You're already doing your absolute best to minimize 2097 01:40:24,950 --> 01:40:26,890 the chance of that happening. 2098 01:40:26,890 --> 01:40:29,030 - Like there's always an anchor, we're always at least-- 2099 01:40:29,030 --> 01:40:31,080 - [Alex] I think that for Tommy the bigger challenge 2100 01:40:31,080 --> 01:40:32,990 is his obligation to his family 2101 01:40:32,990 --> 01:40:35,350 and making sure the Becca feels comfortable 2102 01:40:35,350 --> 01:40:36,340 with his decision making. 2103 01:40:36,340 --> 01:40:37,187 - It's just the kind of thing where it's like 2104 01:40:37,187 --> 01:40:39,230 I want a guarantee but there's no guarantee 2105 01:40:39,230 --> 01:40:44,230 so I just have to trust you guys but that's scary. 2106 01:40:45,140 --> 01:40:46,150 - I was feeling a little bit wigged 2107 01:40:46,150 --> 01:40:48,580 about just raging tomorrow. 2108 01:40:48,580 --> 01:40:49,990 - Yeah making sure there's no gear-- 2109 01:40:49,990 --> 01:40:52,600 - Maybe take a second look at those fixings. 2110 01:40:52,600 --> 01:40:55,570 So we decided to go and take it a little more chill. 2111 01:40:55,570 --> 01:40:58,170 Mostly to just test out the psyche. 2112 01:40:58,170 --> 01:41:00,105 To go sub two I feel like you just gotta be like, 2113 01:41:00,105 --> 01:41:03,750 (grunts) so stoked and this definitely took the wind 2114 01:41:03,750 --> 01:41:04,950 out of the sails for me. 2115 01:41:07,530 --> 01:41:12,530 We went back up, taking the time to reanalyze everything. 2116 01:41:14,130 --> 01:41:16,823 It felt really solid to me, it felt safe. 2117 01:41:19,000 --> 01:41:21,050 It's just a question of how to go faster. 2118 01:41:24,280 --> 01:41:28,173 The one place I know I can save some time is the Boot Flake. 2119 01:41:31,740 --> 01:41:34,555 We'll go faster if I just skip that piece. 2120 01:41:34,555 --> 01:41:37,305 (birds chirping) 2121 01:41:39,730 --> 01:41:43,904 But that's a line I'm just not willing to cross. 2122 01:41:43,904 --> 01:41:47,071 (slow dramatic music) 2123 01:41:53,130 --> 01:41:55,250 Yeah I thought that was fun today, I didn't feel wigged, 2124 01:41:55,250 --> 01:41:56,083 it felt super fun. 2125 01:41:56,083 --> 01:41:57,240 - That was so fun. 2126 01:41:57,240 --> 01:41:59,629 I'm glad that we retouched all the safety stuff 2127 01:41:59,629 --> 01:42:00,950 I think it's totally fine. 2128 01:42:00,950 --> 01:42:01,783 - Yeah. 2129 01:42:02,740 --> 01:42:06,150 - So I would have to shave another five off the bottom? 2130 01:42:06,150 --> 01:42:06,983 - [Alex] Yeah. 2131 01:42:08,360 --> 01:42:12,670 - The last piece of the puzzle was how to go faster 2132 01:42:12,670 --> 01:42:13,983 on that bottom section. 2133 01:42:15,860 --> 01:42:19,727 I set up a self belay, rehearsed every move 2134 01:42:19,727 --> 01:42:22,663 so that I could it totally flawlessly. 2135 01:42:27,970 --> 01:42:30,093 If I can shave that five minutes, 2136 01:42:31,270 --> 01:42:33,270 I'd be holding up my end of the bargain. 2137 01:42:36,349 --> 01:42:37,502 - Good morning. 2138 01:42:37,502 --> 01:42:38,575 - [Other Climbers] Good morning. 2139 01:42:38,575 --> 01:42:39,665 - [Rock Climber] Congratulations. 2140 01:42:39,665 --> 01:42:40,833 - Oh thanks. 2141 01:42:40,833 --> 01:42:41,953 Goin again today. 2142 01:42:44,740 --> 01:42:46,986 - Let's say today is gonna be a little less casual. 2143 01:42:46,986 --> 01:42:49,736 (birds chirping) 2144 01:42:57,690 --> 01:42:58,990 - [Alex] Nice and relaxed. 2145 01:43:00,180 --> 01:43:01,013 - [Tommy] Okay ready. 2146 01:43:01,013 --> 01:43:02,031 - [Alex] Yup. 2147 01:43:02,031 --> 01:43:02,864 (watch beeps) 2148 01:43:02,864 --> 01:43:05,614 (dramatic music) 2149 01:43:06,450 --> 01:43:07,572 - [Alex] Whoa Tommy. 2150 01:43:07,572 --> 01:43:10,620 (dramatic music) 2151 01:43:10,620 --> 01:43:12,463 Tommy was charging to Sickle. 2152 01:43:14,060 --> 01:43:15,410 I mean most people spend the whole day 2153 01:43:15,410 --> 01:43:16,310 getting to Sickle. 2154 01:43:17,520 --> 01:43:18,980 Wow, 11, 06. 2155 01:43:18,980 --> 01:43:20,250 - [Tommy] Holy shit. 2156 01:43:20,250 --> 01:43:21,710 - [Alex] And there goes Tommy blitzing to Sickle 2157 01:43:21,710 --> 01:43:24,393 in 11 minutes, it's completely outrageous. 2158 01:43:25,640 --> 01:43:27,002 Get it, get it, get it. 2159 01:43:27,002 --> 01:43:29,752 (dramatic music) 2160 01:43:45,303 --> 01:43:48,803 (music drowns out speech) 2161 01:43:49,960 --> 01:43:51,005 - [Alex] Where you guys from? 2162 01:43:51,005 --> 01:43:54,505 (music drowns out speech) 2163 01:44:01,187 --> 01:44:02,310 - [Tommy] I'm on the Bolt! 2164 01:44:02,310 --> 01:44:04,487 - [Alex] Okay I have you on set. 2165 01:44:04,487 --> 01:44:06,103 You're on normal belay. 2166 01:44:07,507 --> 01:44:09,540 (music drowns out speech) 2167 01:44:09,540 --> 01:44:11,510 - [Alex] Man that was really fast, 56. 2168 01:44:11,510 --> 01:44:13,200 - [Tommy] Wow, five minutes faster. 2169 01:44:13,200 --> 01:44:14,150 - [Alex] Nice work! 2170 01:44:15,186 --> 01:44:16,370 Okay your line's fixed! 2171 01:44:16,370 --> 01:44:18,260 Tommy puts in an amazing effort 2172 01:44:18,260 --> 01:44:20,100 and puts us in a position to succeed 2173 01:44:20,100 --> 01:44:21,760 and I'm obligated to do my best 2174 01:44:21,760 --> 01:44:23,636 to see us through to the end. 2175 01:44:23,636 --> 01:44:26,386 (dramatic music) 2176 01:44:30,630 --> 01:44:31,940 - [Tommy] Yeah AleX! 2177 01:44:31,940 --> 01:44:33,463 Crushing dude! 2178 01:44:33,463 --> 01:44:36,213 (dramatic music) 2179 01:44:51,860 --> 01:44:56,670 Alex is rocketing up these steep amazing pitches 2180 01:44:56,670 --> 01:44:59,383 2500 feet off the ground. 2181 01:45:00,700 --> 01:45:03,123 God he's just so in his element. 2182 01:45:08,490 --> 01:45:12,900 Seeing him climbing with absolute grace and confidence 2183 01:45:12,900 --> 01:45:14,700 I mean that's perfection. 2184 01:45:24,050 --> 01:45:26,800 (hooks rattling) 2185 01:45:45,386 --> 01:45:48,053 (hook clipping) 2186 01:45:51,962 --> 01:45:54,712 (hooks rattling) 2187 01:46:15,300 --> 01:46:16,133 Yeah Alex! 2188 01:46:16,133 --> 01:46:17,650 - [Alex] All right, fixed. 2189 01:46:17,650 --> 01:46:19,060 - [Tommy] Climbing with him up there 2190 01:46:19,060 --> 01:46:23,220 I get to not only witness but to be part of that mastery. 2191 01:46:24,920 --> 01:46:26,163 - [Alex] I'm on top Tommy! 2192 01:46:26,163 --> 01:46:27,413 - [Tommy] Okay! 2193 01:46:31,297 --> 01:46:36,070 And do something together, it feels, transcendent. 2194 01:46:36,070 --> 01:46:36,903 - Come on Tommy! 2195 01:46:37,990 --> 01:46:40,913 Come on, go fast! 2196 01:46:42,988 --> 01:46:44,714 Yeah Tommy come on! 2197 01:46:44,714 --> 01:46:48,214 (Tommy breathing heavily) 2198 01:46:49,085 --> 01:46:51,978 Yeah, yeah Tommy! 2199 01:46:51,978 --> 01:46:53,185 - We do it? 2200 01:46:53,185 --> 01:46:54,299 - [Alex] Oh yeah. 2201 01:46:54,299 --> 01:46:57,514 (Tommy cheers) 2202 01:46:57,514 --> 01:47:02,514 - Oh my God. 2203 01:47:04,651 --> 01:47:05,484 Oh my God. 2204 01:47:06,401 --> 01:47:09,125 (Tommy breathing heavily) 2205 01:47:09,125 --> 01:47:11,728 (Tommy grunts) 2206 01:47:11,728 --> 01:47:12,561 - What do we got? 2207 01:47:12,561 --> 01:47:13,897 - I'll come show you. 2208 01:47:13,897 --> 01:47:16,700 (Tommy grunts) 2209 01:47:16,700 --> 01:47:18,163 - Oh that was so sick dude. 2210 01:47:19,980 --> 01:47:20,813 Good work. 2211 01:47:25,040 --> 01:47:26,040 - Fuck yeah. 2212 01:47:28,303 --> 01:47:29,136 Yeah! 2213 01:47:30,690 --> 01:47:34,140 Dude, one, 58, one, 58, 07. 2214 01:47:34,140 --> 01:47:35,110 - Whoa! 2215 01:47:35,110 --> 01:47:36,694 - Yeah! - Killed it! 2216 01:47:36,694 --> 01:47:39,220 Yeah, sick. 2217 01:47:39,220 --> 01:47:40,260 - Sick. 2218 01:47:40,260 --> 01:47:42,190 - Wow beat it by two minutes. 2219 01:47:42,190 --> 01:47:43,881 - Yeah, let's never do this again. 2220 01:47:43,881 --> 01:47:44,980 (Tommy laughs) 2221 01:47:44,980 --> 01:47:46,913 - Good work dude, you were charging. 2222 01:47:47,840 --> 01:47:51,380 I actually smelled burning rubber at one point 2223 01:47:51,380 --> 01:47:53,464 and I was like that's appropriate. 2224 01:47:53,464 --> 01:47:54,470 - [Rebecca On Phone] Hello? 2225 01:47:54,470 --> 01:47:55,303 - Hey baby. 2226 01:47:56,263 --> 01:47:57,096 - [Rebecca On Phone] You did it! 2227 01:47:57,096 --> 01:47:57,929 - We did it! 2228 01:47:57,929 --> 01:47:59,430 - [Rebecca On Phone] Come on, are you guys psyched? 2229 01:47:59,430 --> 01:48:00,263 - Yeah. 2230 01:48:00,263 --> 01:48:01,530 - The thing is 'cause if we kept goin forever 2231 01:48:01,530 --> 01:48:03,770 I bet we could go to like one, 45 or something but-- 2232 01:48:03,770 --> 01:48:05,612 - Oh God, that sounds real painful. 2233 01:48:05,612 --> 01:48:06,970 - [Rebecca On Phone] We don't need to do that. 2234 01:48:06,970 --> 01:48:08,220 - Yeah no I don't wanna do that. 2235 01:48:08,220 --> 01:48:10,656 - Alex said he felt emotional when he felt the timer. 2236 01:48:10,656 --> 01:48:12,520 - [Rebecca On Phone] Are you gonna cry Alex? 2237 01:48:12,520 --> 01:48:14,002 - No no, the feeling has past, 2238 01:48:14,002 --> 01:48:15,412 I already feel like we kinda sucked 2239 01:48:15,412 --> 01:48:16,514 and we should of done better. 2240 01:48:16,514 --> 01:48:17,347 - [Tommy] Yeah. 2241 01:48:17,347 --> 01:48:18,180 - [Rebecca On Phone] Well I'd be crying 2242 01:48:18,180 --> 01:48:19,624 if you guys didn't do it right now. 2243 01:48:19,624 --> 01:48:20,999 (both laughing) 2244 01:48:20,999 --> 01:48:22,150 - Yup. 2245 01:48:22,150 --> 01:48:22,983 - [Tommy] Yo Hans. 2246 01:48:22,983 --> 01:48:24,380 - [Hans On Phone] Congratulations guys. 2247 01:48:24,380 --> 01:48:25,213 - [Alex] Oh you saw it? 2248 01:48:25,213 --> 01:48:26,046 - Thank you. - Yeah thanks. 2249 01:48:26,046 --> 01:48:27,350 - Pretty exciting huh? 2250 01:48:27,350 --> 01:48:28,680 - [Hans On Phone] Are you guys done? 2251 01:48:28,680 --> 01:48:30,420 - [Both In Unison] Yeah we're done, we're good. 2252 01:48:30,420 --> 01:48:32,670 - One, 58, 07, we're calling it good. 2253 01:48:32,670 --> 01:48:35,002 - Yeah yeah, I'm psyched with that. 2254 01:48:35,002 --> 01:48:36,110 - [Hans On Phone] Hold on, hold on. 2255 01:48:36,110 --> 01:48:38,430 One, 58, 07 right? 2256 01:48:38,430 --> 01:48:40,000 - Yup yup. 2257 01:48:40,000 --> 01:48:41,340 - [Hans On Phone] Okay that's the official time 2258 01:48:41,340 --> 01:48:42,260 that we'll go with. 2259 01:48:42,260 --> 01:48:44,186 - Yeah that's the official time. 2260 01:48:44,186 --> 01:48:47,920 You can go ahead and etch that into stone, 2261 01:48:47,920 --> 01:48:48,915 that's the official time. 2262 01:48:48,915 --> 01:48:51,665 (dramatic music) 2263 01:49:17,250 --> 01:49:19,349 - That probably knocks Brad and Jim out of the game. 2264 01:49:19,349 --> 01:49:21,070 (Tommy laughs) 2265 01:49:21,070 --> 01:49:22,430 - That was the goal all along. 2266 01:49:22,430 --> 01:49:23,890 - Yeah exactly. 2267 01:49:23,890 --> 01:49:25,860 Come on who cares about breaking two, 2268 01:49:25,860 --> 01:49:28,262 let's just break Brads spirit. 2269 01:49:28,262 --> 01:49:30,652 (Tommy laughs) 2270 01:49:30,652 --> 01:49:32,289 Just kidding Brad. 2271 01:49:32,289 --> 01:49:34,872 (Tommy laughs) 2272 01:49:54,889 --> 01:49:57,306 (slow music) 2273 01:49:58,305 --> 01:50:58,500 Support us and become VIP member to remove all ads from www.OpenSubtitles.org 170849

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