All language subtitles for Iran.Everything.Forbidden.Anything.Possible.2018.1080p.WEB-DL.x264-FGT-English
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1
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(ominous music)
2
00:00:01,410 --> 00:00:04,100
- [Narrator] This breath-taking
scenery can be found in one
3
00:00:04,100 --> 00:00:06,860
of the most mysterious
countries in the world,
4
00:00:06,860 --> 00:00:09,070
the Islamic Republic of Iran.
5
00:00:11,510 --> 00:00:13,590
Today, the most important ceremony
6
00:00:13,590 --> 00:00:17,180
of the year, Achoura, is taking place.
7
00:00:17,180 --> 00:00:20,440
The religious leaders, the
mullahs, are commemorating
8
00:00:20,440 --> 00:00:22,997
the martyr Imam Hussein.
9
00:00:22,997 --> 00:00:27,080
(man speaks in foreign language)
10
00:00:29,610 --> 00:00:32,460
This spiritual leader that
they venerate is one of
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00:00:32,460 --> 00:00:34,940
the founding father of Shi'ism,
12
00:00:34,940 --> 00:00:37,660
a minority sect within Islam.
13
00:00:37,660 --> 00:00:39,810
He was killed in the seventh century
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00:00:39,810 --> 00:00:42,508
by other Muslims, the Sunnis.
15
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(traditional music)
16
00:00:45,260 --> 00:00:47,470
In order to commemorate this murder,
17
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and the pain of Hussein,
when the sermon is over,
18
00:00:50,730 --> 00:00:53,490
men publicly whip themselves.
19
00:01:00,802 --> 00:01:03,780
Then everyone gets covered in
mud as a sign that each one
20
00:01:03,780 --> 00:01:07,440
of these Iranians is prepared
to be buried with the Imam.
21
00:01:14,011 --> 00:01:14,844
(traditional music)
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00:01:14,844 --> 00:01:16,390
In Iran, woe betide the person
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who does not take religion seriously,
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as that is how all the rules are dictated.
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00:01:21,760 --> 00:01:24,450
In this country, Sharia law is observed.
26
00:01:24,450 --> 00:01:27,750
Practically everything is
forbidden: drinking alcohol,
27
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owning a dog, and of course,
going outside with a veil.
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00:01:31,830 --> 00:01:34,720
In this religious
dictatorship, the death penalty
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00:01:34,720 --> 00:01:37,590
is regularly applied, even to children.
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Iran is the country
that executes the most,
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just behind China.
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In 2016, nearly 900 people were executed,
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of which 5 were minors.
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Adultery or homosexuality are punishable
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00:01:50,310 --> 00:01:53,210
with the death penalty,
as is drug trafficking.
36
00:02:09,943 --> 00:02:11,950
But as you will see,
the younger generation,
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hungry for freedom, do break the rules,
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sometimes endangering their lives.
39
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(suspenseful music)
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This evening, we have been
invited to a secret gathering
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in an upmarket neighborhood of Tehran.
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In Iran, there is no bar or nightclub,
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so the parties are held in apartments.
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Inside, there are a dozen
students, boys and girls mixed,
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who are listening to music.
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Tattoos, dyed hair.
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We are a long way from the image that
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the mullahs would want Iran to show.
49
00:02:44,610 --> 00:02:47,620
This evening, we could almost
believe we were in Paris.
50
00:02:55,440 --> 00:02:58,340
Only here, what these young
people are doing is forbidden.
51
00:03:13,020 --> 00:03:15,070
- Everywhere you wanna go, you have to be
52
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scared of the police.
53
00:03:16,220 --> 00:03:18,360
Like, they're gonna come here,
54
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they're gonna take you, you know?
55
00:03:21,510 --> 00:03:24,573
And I have experience with it.
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00:03:24,573 --> 00:03:26,970
- [Jacques] You can tell
us about the experience?
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- Actually, if it's not gonna be,
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if it's not gonna make any trouble for me.
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00:03:32,879 --> 00:03:35,388
- [Jacques] No, nothing like that.
60
00:03:35,388 --> 00:03:36,850
- Okay.
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00:03:36,850 --> 00:03:40,510
One time, we were partying, we
were like 20 people, just 20.
62
00:03:42,170 --> 00:03:46,337
And they came and took us
away and it was so scary.
63
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Ever since then, I'm very scared.
64
00:03:51,260 --> 00:03:56,150
Everywhere I go, I just
imagine them coming in
65
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and taking us away again.
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00:03:58,747 --> 00:04:00,120
And they hit us.
67
00:04:00,120 --> 00:04:02,420
- [Narrator] Another law
that's broken at these events:
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the clothes they were are
considered provocative
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00:04:04,750 --> 00:04:06,622
through religious eyes.
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00:04:06,622 --> 00:04:08,580
- [Jacques] Can you go out like that?
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00:04:08,580 --> 00:04:09,880
- [Female Speaker] Yeah,
but if they catch me,
72
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I could go to jail.
73
00:04:12,050 --> 00:04:14,320
- [Narrator] For wearing
this slim cut pair of jeans
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which show her knees,
this young woman risks
75
00:04:16,940 --> 00:04:19,070
being detained for 12 days.
76
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Her friend has no qualms
about mocking the regime.
77
00:04:22,150 --> 00:04:23,313
- [Jacques] Do you never go to the mosque?
78
00:04:23,313 --> 00:04:25,715
- [Male Speaker] Yeah,
I go to mosque to pee.
79
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- [Female Speaker] I don't,
I don't even pee there!
80
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- [Narrator] This young woman
who never goes to the mosque
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is going to break another law tonight.
82
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The most dangerous.
83
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This very important phone
call is to order some alcohol.
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- [Jacques] You are the
expert for the alcohol?
85
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- (laughs) No, I just know the guy.
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(laughs)
87
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How does it work?
88
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You get to know these people
from your friends and then
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you get their numbers,
and whenever you want,
90
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you just call them, they bring it to you
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or send it with a taxi.
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And then you just pay online.
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- [Jacques] Is that all?
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It's that easy?
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- Yes.
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(laughs)
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- [Narrator] Despite the laughter,
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fear can be felt everywhere.
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The owner of the apartment asks us
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to move the camera further away.
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- [Male Speaker] I don't
want you to see the address.
102
00:05:30,120 --> 00:05:31,630
- [Narrator] Awaiting the
delivery, in the kitchen,
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the group are breaking Sharia law again.
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00:05:38,490 --> 00:05:39,916
- [Male Speaker] Everything is possible.
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00:05:39,916 --> 00:05:42,565
- [Jacques] You don't get in trouble?
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00:05:42,565 --> 00:05:46,648
- [Male Speaker] Sometimes,
but you can solve it.
107
00:05:49,190 --> 00:05:51,690
Alcohol, yeah, they are
more sensitive on alcohol.
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00:05:55,840 --> 00:05:59,210
- [Narrator] 15 minutes
later, the vodka arrives.
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00:05:59,210 --> 00:06:01,410
Bear in mind that the
consumption of alcohol
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00:06:01,410 --> 00:06:03,660
is punishable with 40 lashes.
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00:06:03,660 --> 00:06:06,190
Repeat offenders can
face the death penalty.
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00:06:08,390 --> 00:06:09,710
- [Male Speaker] Cheers.
113
00:06:09,710 --> 00:06:11,430
- [Narrator] In this
country, where their future
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00:06:11,430 --> 00:06:14,190
seems bleak, the younger
generation are prepared to take
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00:06:14,190 --> 00:06:16,750
all sorts of risks in order to escape from
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00:06:16,750 --> 00:06:19,770
the daily drudgery imposed by the mullahs.
117
00:06:19,770 --> 00:06:22,840
This thirst for life that
the Iranian youth have
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00:06:22,840 --> 00:06:24,760
can be felt throughout the city.
119
00:06:24,760 --> 00:06:27,130
Tonight, from our hotel room, we detect
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00:06:27,130 --> 00:06:29,750
that there is another
secret party going on,
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this one is a lot less discrete.
122
00:06:31,874 --> 00:06:32,707
(electronic music)
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00:06:32,707 --> 00:06:35,250
Breaking the law and risking
one's life has almost become
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00:06:35,250 --> 00:06:39,060
par for the course in Iran,
especially among young people.
125
00:06:39,060 --> 00:06:43,650
The under 35s represent more
than 50% of the population,
126
00:06:43,650 --> 00:06:46,900
and they want to live in the
Western way, to free themselves
127
00:06:46,900 --> 00:06:50,228
from the religious laws
that are suffocating them.
128
00:06:50,228 --> 00:06:52,670
(calm music)
129
00:06:52,670 --> 00:06:55,610
In order to make this
film on forbidden Iran
130
00:06:55,610 --> 00:06:59,220
and to avoid censorship by
the regime, we have come here
131
00:06:59,220 --> 00:07:02,210
as a couple, as if we were just tourists.
132
00:07:02,210 --> 00:07:04,580
A man and a woman with camcorders,
133
00:07:04,580 --> 00:07:06,780
we are Jacques and Sophie.
134
00:07:06,780 --> 00:07:10,500
Taking advantage of newly opened
direct flights from Paris,
135
00:07:10,500 --> 00:07:13,890
we are headed for Tehran,
the capital of this country
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sandwiched between Iraq and Afghanistan.
137
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We risk months of imprisonment if
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the police catch us with our footage.
139
00:07:22,950 --> 00:07:25,550
In order to understand
how Iran was plunged
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00:07:25,550 --> 00:07:29,580
into religious dictatorship,
we have to go back fifty years.
141
00:07:31,450 --> 00:07:35,887
During the 60s, the country
was led by a king, the Shah.
142
00:07:35,887 --> 00:07:38,770
(ominous music)
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00:07:38,770 --> 00:07:42,210
At the time, Tehran, the
capital, was a modern city,
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00:07:42,210 --> 00:07:44,460
women wore skirts, not scarves.
145
00:07:44,460 --> 00:07:46,220
They even had the right to vote.
146
00:07:47,180 --> 00:07:49,920
Thanks to royalties paid
by petrol companies,
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00:07:49,920 --> 00:07:52,260
the Shah became enormously wealthy.
148
00:07:52,260 --> 00:07:54,867
It could even be said
he lived in opulence.
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00:07:54,867 --> 00:07:57,117
(cheering)
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00:07:59,478 --> 00:08:02,395
(orchestral music)
151
00:08:08,280 --> 00:08:09,670
- [Narrator] But while the Iranian elite
152
00:08:09,670 --> 00:08:12,190
do well out of this economic progress,
153
00:08:12,190 --> 00:08:14,960
the working classes are
getting poorer and poorer.
154
00:08:15,870 --> 00:08:18,710
From 1978, people started to take
155
00:08:18,710 --> 00:08:21,850
a stand against such great inequalities.
156
00:08:21,850 --> 00:08:23,740
In the face of this popular front,
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the Shah gave up his power.
158
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He was never to return.
159
00:08:27,770 --> 00:08:30,470
At the same time, the
Shah's main opposition,
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00:08:30,470 --> 00:08:34,670
an Iranian religious chief,
was preparing for a revolution.
161
00:08:34,670 --> 00:08:36,640
He was living in France.
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The Ayatollah Khomeini found
refuge in Neauphle-le-Chateau
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00:08:40,660 --> 00:08:42,400
in the Parisian suburbs.
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00:08:50,505 --> 00:08:54,769
Upon his return to Iran, the
Ayatollah was hailed leader.
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00:08:54,769 --> 00:08:57,200
(chanting)
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He became the supreme leader, the leader
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of the Iranian revolution.
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Religious rule was henceforth
above political power.
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00:09:05,680 --> 00:09:09,500
Khomeini set up a moral police
force, a militia comprised
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00:09:09,500 --> 00:09:12,520
of four million agents, the Bassijis.
171
00:09:12,520 --> 00:09:15,120
Today, they still oversee the good conduct
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00:09:15,120 --> 00:09:16,970
of 80 million Iranians.
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They're on every street corner but also
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in the parks and even on the ski slopes,
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they're everywhere, ready to serve.
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Underground inquiry into one of
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the most oppressive religious
dictatorships in the world.
178
00:09:38,159 --> 00:09:41,076
(percussion music)
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The foot of the Elbourz mountains, Tehran.
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One in five Iranians live here,
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that's more than 15 million inhabitants.
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In this capital, two worlds
bustle along together.
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On the one hand, the old city,
traditional, with its bazaar,
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its mosques, its mullahs.
185
00:10:02,370 --> 00:10:05,260
In another, a modern
city with its buildings,
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shopping centers, and its
fashion conscious young people.
187
00:10:08,995 --> 00:10:11,000
(calm instrumental music)
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00:10:11,000 --> 00:10:13,920
Two worlds which sometimes
meet where chadors
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00:10:13,920 --> 00:10:17,360
and black veils rub against
brightly colored lingerie.
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00:10:21,180 --> 00:10:23,760
Tehran has another striking characteristic
191
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for tourists like us.
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Military and police are everywhere.
193
00:10:27,920 --> 00:10:31,200
And they're not just there
for show, as we soon discover.
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Our first stop in the capital
195
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is a famous promenade: the Tabiat Bridge.
196
00:10:37,910 --> 00:10:41,010
(distant singing)
197
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We come back after three
minutes and already,
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a uniformed officer stops us.
199
00:11:29,120 --> 00:11:32,140
That's cleared that one
up, it is clearly not okay
200
00:11:32,140 --> 00:11:34,750
to film inside this police state.
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For the rest of the day, we found a driver
202
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who'll agree to our camera.
203
00:11:39,050 --> 00:11:41,750
We tried our luck with
about 10 different drivers,
204
00:11:41,750 --> 00:11:43,440
but they all said no.
205
00:11:43,440 --> 00:11:46,090
We were starting to get
desperate when we came across
206
00:11:46,090 --> 00:11:49,920
a 30-something Tehrani
who breaks all the rules.
207
00:11:49,920 --> 00:11:51,831
Let's call him Farad.
208
00:11:51,831 --> 00:11:54,164
(pop music)
209
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It seems harmless, but the modern music
210
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he's listening to is forbidden.
211
00:12:29,830 --> 00:12:32,000
(pop music)
212
00:12:32,000 --> 00:12:34,020
Farad doesn't just listen to music.
213
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In his car, anything goes.
214
00:12:36,050 --> 00:12:39,440
Even breaking another law,
an even riskier one for him.
215
00:12:52,340 --> 00:12:55,680
A study carried out by the
Iranian police between April
216
00:12:55,680 --> 00:12:58,520
and May 2012 showed that a quarter
217
00:12:58,520 --> 00:13:00,650
of the drivers stopped were drunk.
218
00:13:00,650 --> 00:13:02,820
Farad feels free behind the wheel,
219
00:13:02,820 --> 00:13:05,080
but his car hasn't always protected him.
220
00:13:52,841 --> 00:13:54,310
(traditional music)
221
00:13:54,310 --> 00:13:57,790
One million Iranians are regular
drinkers, although the sale
222
00:13:57,790 --> 00:14:00,440
of alcoholic beverages
is officially forbidden
223
00:14:00,440 --> 00:14:04,340
in the country, even in
international hotel chains.
224
00:14:04,340 --> 00:14:07,410
As a result of this
prohibition, some Iranians
225
00:14:07,410 --> 00:14:10,700
have thrown themselves into
the secret underground business
226
00:14:10,700 --> 00:14:13,680
of alcohol production, an activity
227
00:14:13,680 --> 00:14:16,290
that can get you sent straight to prison.
228
00:14:16,290 --> 00:14:18,610
Trying to convince one
of these bootleggers
229
00:14:18,610 --> 00:14:21,590
to talk to us proved
difficult, and many of those
230
00:14:21,590 --> 00:14:25,100
we contacted said no at the last minute.
231
00:14:25,100 --> 00:14:27,780
Thanks to an intermediary,
a couple involved
232
00:14:27,780 --> 00:14:31,010
in this black market
finally agreed to meet us.
233
00:14:31,010 --> 00:14:33,290
In order not to endanger them, we double
234
00:14:33,290 --> 00:14:35,150
our efforts to be careful.
235
00:14:35,150 --> 00:14:37,440
Anyone in civilian clothing could be
236
00:14:37,440 --> 00:14:39,640
an informant of the regime.
237
00:14:39,640 --> 00:14:42,230
To get to the meeting,
we therefore change means
238
00:14:42,230 --> 00:14:46,397
of transport several times in
order not to leave any tracks.
239
00:14:49,521 --> 00:14:51,660
(man speaks in foreign language)
240
00:14:51,660 --> 00:14:54,910
After 45 minutes making
detours around town,
241
00:14:54,910 --> 00:14:56,830
we finally reach our destination.
242
00:14:56,830 --> 00:14:59,180
- [Male Speaker] We can
open it in the kitchen.
243
00:15:00,620 --> 00:15:02,870
- [Narrator] Amine and
Kiana are bootleggers.
244
00:15:05,209 --> 00:15:06,915
- [Male Speaker] Don't worry, open it.
245
00:15:06,915 --> 00:15:08,327
- [Kiana] I don't want to.
246
00:15:08,327 --> 00:15:10,340
- [Male Speaker] Open it slowly.
247
00:15:10,340 --> 00:15:11,990
- [Narrator] They are 20-somethings living
248
00:15:11,990 --> 00:15:14,530
in an apartment borrowed
from their parents.
249
00:15:14,530 --> 00:15:18,930
Both are unemployed, as
are 27% of young Iranians.
250
00:15:18,930 --> 00:15:22,190
That figure reaches even
40% among young women.
251
00:15:26,530 --> 00:15:27,763
- [Jacques] Are there many people
252
00:15:27,763 --> 00:15:31,100
who do this kind of action actually?
253
00:15:31,100 --> 00:15:33,482
- In here, about making beers?
254
00:15:33,482 --> 00:15:34,815
- [Jacques] Yes.
255
00:15:37,120 --> 00:15:40,140
- It's not common, but some of my friends,
256
00:15:40,140 --> 00:15:44,307
a few of my friends do this, same as me.
257
00:15:45,350 --> 00:15:49,517
Everyone has their own
recipes for making beer.
258
00:15:51,110 --> 00:15:52,430
- [Narrator] For these bootleggers,
259
00:15:52,430 --> 00:15:55,080
the procedure isn't very complicated.
260
00:15:55,080 --> 00:15:57,910
The regime almost makes their task easy.
261
00:15:57,910 --> 00:16:01,580
It manufactures non-alcoholic
beer, a good base.
262
00:16:03,120 --> 00:16:06,520
In fact, for Amine, it's
the manufacturer, also known
263
00:16:06,520 --> 00:16:09,380
as the state, which does
the most difficult part.
264
00:16:10,691 --> 00:16:12,580
- You know, it's very
hard to make this kind
265
00:16:12,580 --> 00:16:15,940
of non-alcoholic beer,
because the normal process
266
00:16:15,940 --> 00:16:18,970
of making beer has alcohol.
267
00:16:18,970 --> 00:16:21,130
But they have to do something
268
00:16:21,130 --> 00:16:25,470
to take alcohol out of the beer.
269
00:16:25,470 --> 00:16:28,540
- [Narrator] Amine only has
to re-alcoholize it all,
270
00:16:28,540 --> 00:16:31,200
and he has the recipe at his fingertips.
271
00:16:31,200 --> 00:16:33,990
He starts by pouring
sugar into the container.
272
00:16:35,080 --> 00:16:36,267
- [Kiana] It's easy.
273
00:16:36,267 --> 00:16:37,100
- [Jacques] It's easy?
274
00:16:37,100 --> 00:16:40,433
- Yeah, it's really easy, you'll see it.
275
00:16:43,000 --> 00:16:44,830
- [Jacques] And then how
much degrees of alcohol
276
00:16:44,830 --> 00:16:46,330
you get at the end?
277
00:16:46,330 --> 00:16:49,700
- About eight, nine, sometimes more.
278
00:16:50,790 --> 00:16:53,060
- [Narrator] The beer has
been mixed with the sugar,
279
00:16:53,060 --> 00:16:54,870
but it isn't ready yet.
280
00:16:54,870 --> 00:16:58,040
Amine adds a bit of brewer's
yeast to make it ferment.
281
00:17:00,430 --> 00:17:01,780
- [Amine] It's almost done.
282
00:17:03,070 --> 00:17:06,980
- If you want to buy can of beers,
283
00:17:06,980 --> 00:17:11,147
it's much more expensive than this much.
284
00:17:12,630 --> 00:17:14,160
- [Jacques] How much is that, for example?
285
00:17:14,160 --> 00:17:17,920
- 25 or even 30,000 tomans for each can.
286
00:17:18,805 --> 00:17:20,702
- [Jacques] That means $10 for each can?
287
00:17:20,702 --> 00:17:21,535
- [Kiana] Yes.
288
00:17:21,535 --> 00:17:22,368
- [Amine] For each can, yes.
289
00:17:22,368 --> 00:17:24,530
- [Jacques] You don't
sell the beer after it's--
290
00:17:24,530 --> 00:17:28,300
- Erm, I sell to my close
friends or friends of my friends.
291
00:17:28,300 --> 00:17:31,744
(ominous music)
292
00:17:31,744 --> 00:17:35,911
Usually, in cold weather, I
put it near the fireplace.
293
00:17:40,184 --> 00:17:41,760
For example, here.
294
00:17:41,760 --> 00:17:43,670
- [Narrator] In one week, Amine and Kiana
295
00:17:43,670 --> 00:17:48,140
will have 10 liters of
beer, alcohol content 10%.
296
00:17:48,140 --> 00:17:51,280
They therefore make about
100 liters per month,
297
00:17:51,280 --> 00:17:54,060
the equivalent of several
hundred euros a week,
298
00:17:54,060 --> 00:17:56,210
which enables them to live decently.
299
00:17:57,053 --> 00:17:57,886
(percussion music)
300
00:17:57,886 --> 00:18:01,210
In Iran, the average salary
is only 400 euros a month.
301
00:18:01,210 --> 00:18:04,360
A shoe shiner makes less
than one euro a day,
302
00:18:04,360 --> 00:18:07,800
a teacher 10 euros a month at best.
303
00:18:07,800 --> 00:18:12,160
80% of Iranians live below the
poverty line, but the regime,
304
00:18:12,160 --> 00:18:15,450
in contrast, has been spending
countless sums of money
305
00:18:15,450 --> 00:18:19,940
over 30 years in order to
build an ostentatious mausoleum
306
00:18:19,940 --> 00:18:23,110
in honor of their most
important spiritual leader,
307
00:18:23,110 --> 00:18:24,530
Ayatollah Khomeini.
308
00:18:25,802 --> 00:18:28,090
(water splashing)
309
00:18:28,090 --> 00:18:31,760
We meet on site, the mausoleum
is still being built.
310
00:18:31,760 --> 00:18:34,270
It covers 20 square kilometers,
311
00:18:34,270 --> 00:18:37,090
the equivalent of four Parisian districts.
312
00:18:38,220 --> 00:18:42,480
With its golden roofs, this
building will cost $2 billion.
313
00:18:42,480 --> 00:18:46,160
A colossal sum in a country
where seven million households
314
00:18:46,160 --> 00:18:48,960
don't have the means to pay the rent.
315
00:18:48,960 --> 00:18:52,160
The religious dictatorship
seems at complete odds
316
00:18:52,160 --> 00:18:54,920
with its people, and
that is what the guide,
317
00:18:54,920 --> 00:18:57,670
who doesn't know we're
recording him, confirms.
318
00:18:59,500 --> 00:19:01,170
- [Jacques] How many people go on Friday
319
00:19:01,170 --> 00:19:03,060
to the mosque to pray?
320
00:19:03,060 --> 00:19:04,510
All the Iranian people?
321
00:19:05,450 --> 00:19:07,380
- [Guide] No, not all.
322
00:19:07,380 --> 00:19:08,230
It's very little.
323
00:19:09,784 --> 00:19:13,617
Only three, four or 5% of the population.
324
00:19:15,290 --> 00:19:16,360
- [Jacques] Not so much.
325
00:19:16,360 --> 00:19:17,600
- [Guide] No.
326
00:19:17,600 --> 00:19:20,350
- [Jacques] And if you don't
go, there's no problems?
327
00:19:21,250 --> 00:19:22,276
- [Guide] No.
328
00:19:22,276 --> 00:19:24,785
- [Jacques] They don't care?
329
00:19:24,785 --> 00:19:27,690
- [Guide] For some kinds of
employees, that they work
330
00:19:27,690 --> 00:19:31,560
for government and they work
in the military, in the army,
331
00:19:31,560 --> 00:19:32,650
they have to go.
332
00:19:33,781 --> 00:19:36,180
- [Narrator] Nowadays, in
order to generate revenue,
333
00:19:36,180 --> 00:19:39,120
Iran is developing its tourist sector.
334
00:19:39,120 --> 00:19:41,690
The country has gone
from one million visitors
335
00:19:41,690 --> 00:19:45,857
in 2003 to five million in 2016.
336
00:19:46,930 --> 00:19:49,450
But in spite of such colossal investment,
337
00:19:49,450 --> 00:19:52,227
the mausoleum does not pull in the crowds.
338
00:19:52,227 --> 00:19:53,060
(ominous music)
339
00:19:53,060 --> 00:19:54,870
Inside, not one foreign tourist,
340
00:19:54,870 --> 00:19:57,650
only some Iranians here to pray.
341
00:19:57,650 --> 00:19:59,770
And the same rule as usual.
342
00:20:00,819 --> 00:20:01,652
- [Jacques] It's possible to film?
343
00:20:01,652 --> 00:20:02,760
- [Soldier] No, safety first.
344
00:20:05,030 --> 00:20:07,090
- [Narrator] We carry
on filming discretely
345
00:20:07,090 --> 00:20:09,080
with a mobile phone anyway.
346
00:20:09,080 --> 00:20:11,730
There's marble and frescoes everywhere.
347
00:20:11,730 --> 00:20:13,730
Pilgrims and some mullahs come
348
00:20:13,730 --> 00:20:16,270
and gather around Khomeini's tomb.
349
00:20:16,270 --> 00:20:19,420
His remains are buried behind
this gold and silver grate.
350
00:20:36,800 --> 00:20:39,490
This unusual place of devotion seems
351
00:20:39,490 --> 00:20:41,940
to attract only a few Iranians.
352
00:20:41,940 --> 00:20:43,680
The majority of them find it hard
353
00:20:43,680 --> 00:20:46,850
to accept such exorbitant expenditure
354
00:20:46,850 --> 00:20:49,400
and this personality cult.
355
00:20:49,400 --> 00:20:51,790
Even our guide has his reservations.
356
00:20:57,910 --> 00:20:59,800
- [Guide] For example, I,
myself, I hate this kind
357
00:20:59,800 --> 00:21:02,910
of architecture, because
it's related to religious...
358
00:21:04,569 --> 00:21:07,550
(distant singing)
359
00:21:07,550 --> 00:21:09,640
- [Narrator] It's in the
name of this religion that
360
00:21:09,640 --> 00:21:12,900
the Ayatollahs multiply
their prohibitions.
361
00:21:12,900 --> 00:21:16,410
Today in Iran, men don't have
the right to wear shorts,
362
00:21:16,410 --> 00:21:18,900
and women are not allowed
to ride a bicycle,
363
00:21:18,900 --> 00:21:23,250
an act considered too
erotic by the moral police.
364
00:21:23,250 --> 00:21:25,780
But when night falls, when police patrols
365
00:21:25,780 --> 00:21:28,810
become more spaced out,
some don't hesitate
366
00:21:28,810 --> 00:21:30,625
to break the mullahs' laws.
367
00:21:30,625 --> 00:21:31,458
(ominous music)
368
00:21:31,458 --> 00:21:33,370
We are headed for a park on the outskirts
369
00:21:33,370 --> 00:21:35,460
of town in a wealthy area, where
370
00:21:35,460 --> 00:21:37,530
all these walkers are breaking the law.
371
00:21:40,801 --> 00:21:42,210
(dogs barking)
372
00:21:42,210 --> 00:21:44,850
Their dogs put them at risk of sanctions.
373
00:21:44,850 --> 00:21:47,630
They are forbidden because
they are considered unclean
374
00:21:47,630 --> 00:21:50,109
by religious leaders, like pigs.
375
00:21:50,109 --> 00:21:52,776
(dogs barking)
376
00:22:20,060 --> 00:22:22,310
However, if you are young and fashionable,
377
00:22:22,310 --> 00:22:25,230
having a dog in Tehran is very trendy,
378
00:22:25,230 --> 00:22:27,220
but it's a fashion that remains hidden.
379
00:22:32,650 --> 00:22:34,440
It's a Western fashion that only
380
00:22:34,440 --> 00:22:36,960
the richest can permit themselves,
381
00:22:36,960 --> 00:22:40,580
the fine costs a minimum of 500 euros.
382
00:22:40,580 --> 00:22:43,400
And if the animal is
caught travelling by car,
383
00:22:43,400 --> 00:22:46,350
the vehicle can, quite
simply, be confiscated.
384
00:23:01,020 --> 00:23:04,050
It costs up to 10,000 euros to buy a dog.
385
00:23:04,050 --> 00:23:07,170
The authorities regularly
organize busts in order
386
00:23:07,170 --> 00:23:09,570
to confiscate these four-legged friends,
387
00:23:09,570 --> 00:23:11,760
to the great desperation of their owners.
388
00:23:21,427 --> 00:23:22,300
(ominous music)
389
00:23:22,300 --> 00:23:25,410
Whilst these young people
don't rebel against everything
390
00:23:25,410 --> 00:23:29,360
while secretly awaiting change,
on the other side of Tehran,
391
00:23:29,360 --> 00:23:31,580
we are going to meet a man who has decided
392
00:23:31,580 --> 00:23:35,290
to express his anger with
the regime loud and clear.
393
00:23:35,290 --> 00:23:39,570
What he's eagerly doing is
equated to political opposition.
394
00:23:39,570 --> 00:23:42,580
For that, he risks a very
long prison sentence,
395
00:23:42,580 --> 00:23:46,530
and after a speedy trial,
he could even be executed.
396
00:23:46,530 --> 00:23:49,310
This man is called Bam Bam, his weapons
397
00:23:49,310 --> 00:23:51,370
were bought legally from the shops.
398
00:23:51,370 --> 00:23:53,740
They are basic paint bombs.
399
00:23:53,740 --> 00:23:55,250
- [Jacques] Is it easy to find?
400
00:23:55,250 --> 00:23:59,280
- [Bam Bam] Yeah, it's cool, but police
401
00:23:59,280 --> 00:24:02,670
is everywhere, you cannot
find everything you want.
402
00:24:02,670 --> 00:24:03,960
- [Narrator] Several times a month,
403
00:24:03,960 --> 00:24:06,420
he records his acts of resistance.
404
00:24:06,420 --> 00:24:09,087
(ominous music)
405
00:24:12,500 --> 00:24:15,160
This evening, he's going to
the bridge that overlooks
406
00:24:15,160 --> 00:24:17,440
one of the main arteries of Tehran.
407
00:24:20,870 --> 00:24:23,270
And he writes the word hooligan.
408
00:24:23,270 --> 00:24:25,750
In Iran, these words are associated
409
00:24:25,750 --> 00:24:29,190
with political opposition,
similar to times gone by
410
00:24:29,190 --> 00:24:31,950
in the former USSR where it was used
411
00:24:31,950 --> 00:24:35,860
to denote young people in
opposition of the regime.
412
00:24:35,860 --> 00:24:40,027
Graffiti artists like Bam Bam
feature on the mullahs' radar.
413
00:24:44,750 --> 00:24:47,800
Last year, Keywan Karimi was sentenced
414
00:24:47,800 --> 00:24:51,820
to 223 lashes and a year's imprisonment.
415
00:24:51,820 --> 00:24:52,680
His crime?
416
00:24:52,680 --> 00:24:54,920
Making a documentary on the history
417
00:24:54,920 --> 00:24:58,081
of Iran as told through graffiti.
418
00:24:58,081 --> 00:25:00,748
(intense music)
419
00:25:08,400 --> 00:25:10,710
But these heavy penalties don't put off
420
00:25:10,710 --> 00:25:12,670
graffiti artists like Bam Bam.
421
00:25:36,638 --> 00:25:37,471
(ominous music)
422
00:25:37,471 --> 00:25:39,830
But does the power really
belong to the people?
423
00:25:39,830 --> 00:25:41,890
That's what the Iranian youth believed
424
00:25:41,890 --> 00:25:45,420
after the 2009 presidential election.
425
00:25:45,420 --> 00:25:48,920
Mir Hussein Moussavi,
the reform candidate,
426
00:25:48,920 --> 00:25:51,960
was predicted to win by
all the opinion polls.
427
00:25:51,960 --> 00:25:54,370
But election night amazed everyone.
428
00:25:54,370 --> 00:25:57,180
In the end, the
ultra-conservative president
429
00:25:57,180 --> 00:26:00,870
Mahmoud Ahmadinejad was re-elected.
430
00:26:00,870 --> 00:26:03,080
He was accused of election fraud.
431
00:26:03,080 --> 00:26:05,690
The people took to the streets in protest.
432
00:26:05,690 --> 00:26:08,760
But the religious police,
the Bassijis, the army,
433
00:26:08,760 --> 00:26:12,260
and the police are perpetrators
of a bloody repression.
434
00:26:12,260 --> 00:26:16,270
At least 70 dead and
more than 4,000 arrested.
435
00:26:16,270 --> 00:26:19,900
One tragedy attracted the
attention of the outside world:
436
00:26:19,900 --> 00:26:23,720
Neda Agha-Soltan, a 26-year-old Iranian,
437
00:26:23,720 --> 00:26:27,140
was killed by a soldier
hiding on the roof of a house.
438
00:26:27,140 --> 00:26:28,480
It was clearly murder.
439
00:26:33,865 --> 00:26:36,760
In response to international outrage,
440
00:26:36,760 --> 00:26:39,100
the government ordered a media blackout.
441
00:26:39,100 --> 00:26:42,550
Only those images recorded
by the citizens themselves
442
00:26:42,550 --> 00:26:44,700
managed to get out of the country.
443
00:26:44,700 --> 00:26:46,830
The BBC signal satellite over
444
00:26:46,830 --> 00:26:48,710
the region was interfered with.
445
00:26:55,060 --> 00:26:58,820
Despite their courage, the
demonstrators were unsuccessful.
446
00:26:58,820 --> 00:27:02,539
The election result was supported
by the religious leaders,
447
00:27:02,539 --> 00:27:04,680
Ahmadinejad remains in power.
448
00:27:04,680 --> 00:27:08,030
Following these riots,
censorship was tightened up,
449
00:27:08,030 --> 00:27:10,950
especially on social networks.
450
00:27:10,950 --> 00:27:12,640
And this carries on today.
451
00:27:13,520 --> 00:27:17,300
We find this out when we buy
a mobile phone microchip.
452
00:27:24,720 --> 00:27:27,080
In fact, access to social networks
453
00:27:27,080 --> 00:27:31,247
is officially prohibited and blocked.
454
00:27:38,550 --> 00:27:41,860
Following the advice of this
state employee, we head for
455
00:27:41,860 --> 00:27:46,000
the stall opposite, which
sells mobile phone accessories.
456
00:27:46,000 --> 00:27:48,700
This man also recommends special cards,
457
00:27:48,700 --> 00:27:52,750
which enable access to
forbidden software, VPNs.
458
00:27:52,750 --> 00:27:55,870
Once installed on the
phone, the program simulates
459
00:27:55,870 --> 00:27:59,530
an internet connection from
a country other than Iran,
460
00:27:59,530 --> 00:28:02,420
and therefore bypasses the censorship.
461
00:28:29,133 --> 00:28:31,220
In less than five minutes, we have access
462
00:28:31,220 --> 00:28:33,490
to all social networks.
463
00:28:33,490 --> 00:28:36,770
Does the state purposely close
its eyes to these sellers
464
00:28:36,770 --> 00:28:39,830
in order to relax the
pressure on the population
465
00:28:39,830 --> 00:28:43,010
and thereby avoid a popular uprising?
466
00:28:43,010 --> 00:28:45,410
Or are we in a schizophrenic country
467
00:28:45,410 --> 00:28:48,760
where certain small
infractions are overlooked?
468
00:28:48,760 --> 00:28:52,330
Officially, for example,
foreign channels are forbidden.
469
00:28:52,330 --> 00:28:54,820
However, satellite dishes are blatantly
470
00:28:54,820 --> 00:28:57,018
on view from almost every window.
471
00:28:57,018 --> 00:28:57,851
(intense music)
472
00:28:57,851 --> 00:29:00,530
These allow Iranians to
watch something other than
473
00:29:00,530 --> 00:29:03,860
the national channels that
broadcast a steady stream
474
00:29:03,860 --> 00:29:08,470
of prayers, preaching, and
speeches glorifying the mullahs.
475
00:29:08,470 --> 00:29:10,900
Because ever since Khomeini, the country
476
00:29:10,900 --> 00:29:13,680
has become a leader in
religious propaganda.
477
00:29:19,610 --> 00:29:22,340
On Tehran's walls, the regime displays
478
00:29:22,340 --> 00:29:24,550
the greatness of the Ayatollahs.
479
00:29:24,550 --> 00:29:28,630
Looming from above are billboards
showing a happy society.
480
00:29:28,630 --> 00:29:30,460
Fulfilled and perfect.
481
00:29:30,460 --> 00:29:35,210
A nation united by solidarity,
edified by religion.
482
00:29:35,210 --> 00:29:38,330
However, also on show
is their sworn enmity
483
00:29:38,330 --> 00:29:39,960
with the United States.
484
00:29:39,960 --> 00:29:42,640
For the past 40 years, the two countries
485
00:29:42,640 --> 00:29:45,190
have cut all diplomatic relations.
486
00:29:49,814 --> 00:29:51,090
(ominous music)
487
00:29:51,090 --> 00:29:53,470
The former American
embassy has been turned
488
00:29:53,470 --> 00:29:56,040
into the anti-arrogance museum.
489
00:29:56,040 --> 00:29:58,610
In the garden, dozens of posters denounce
490
00:29:58,610 --> 00:30:00,910
the country they call Great Satan.
491
00:30:07,210 --> 00:30:10,500
Obama is disguised and
shown as a terrorist.
492
00:30:14,370 --> 00:30:16,870
Relations between the US and Iran
493
00:30:16,870 --> 00:30:20,220
were turned upside down in 1979.
494
00:30:20,220 --> 00:30:24,130
The former king, the Shah,
then in exile in Mexico,
495
00:30:24,130 --> 00:30:27,192
was hospitalized in New
York for cancer treatment.
496
00:30:27,192 --> 00:30:28,025
(chanting)
497
00:30:28,025 --> 00:30:29,880
The Iranian authorities demanded
498
00:30:29,880 --> 00:30:33,160
his extradition, without success.
499
00:30:33,160 --> 00:30:37,180
Instructed by the Ayatollah
Khomeini, students then attacked
500
00:30:37,180 --> 00:30:39,540
the United States' embassy in Tehran,
501
00:30:39,540 --> 00:30:42,080
taking some 50 people hostage.
502
00:30:42,080 --> 00:30:46,247
They were not freed until 444 days later.
503
00:30:49,660 --> 00:30:53,340
Ever since, inside the embassy,
nothing has been changed.
504
00:30:53,340 --> 00:30:57,330
The documents and machines
are safe-guarded as trophies.
505
00:30:57,330 --> 00:30:59,920
This is the case with
the paper shredder used
506
00:30:59,920 --> 00:31:02,140
to destroy secret papers while
507
00:31:02,140 --> 00:31:05,350
the American soldiers
fought off the students.
508
00:31:05,350 --> 00:31:09,140
We discover the first computers
and satellite receivers,
509
00:31:09,140 --> 00:31:13,000
interception systems,
passport photos presented by
510
00:31:13,000 --> 00:31:15,330
the Iranian authorities as being used
511
00:31:15,330 --> 00:31:17,650
to make fake documents.
512
00:31:17,650 --> 00:31:19,930
The highlight is this glassed room,
513
00:31:19,930 --> 00:31:23,680
sound proofed and with its
own ventilation system.
514
00:31:23,680 --> 00:31:26,250
For the past 40 years, the dictatorship
515
00:31:26,250 --> 00:31:30,090
has been spreading anti-Americanism
through propaganda,
516
00:31:30,090 --> 00:31:33,430
and its most recent weapon
of mass communication:
517
00:31:33,430 --> 00:31:38,033
this advert shown on
national television in 2016.
518
00:31:38,033 --> 00:31:41,200
(intense choir music)
519
00:31:46,364 --> 00:31:47,404
(woman screaming)
520
00:31:47,404 --> 00:31:50,820
For 350,000 euros, the regime made use
521
00:31:50,820 --> 00:31:53,400
of the most beautiful special effects.
522
00:31:53,400 --> 00:31:55,530
The scenario is very simple.
523
00:31:55,530 --> 00:31:59,010
The powerful American army
attack the mullahs' country.
524
00:32:02,340 --> 00:32:05,990
To fight back, the villagers
use a simple Iranian flag.
525
00:32:27,984 --> 00:32:30,317
(explosion)
526
00:32:32,190 --> 00:32:34,420
Their love for their country is so strong
527
00:32:34,420 --> 00:32:37,310
that they provoke a real tsunami.
528
00:32:37,310 --> 00:32:40,946
It's the love of their country
that brings them victory.
529
00:32:40,946 --> 00:32:43,779
(water splashing)
530
00:32:48,718 --> 00:32:51,193
(explosion)
531
00:32:51,193 --> 00:32:53,360
(thunder)
532
00:33:05,550 --> 00:33:08,980
These displays of hatred for
the United States can be found
533
00:33:08,980 --> 00:33:13,152
all around town, even inside
the mosques on giant screens.
534
00:33:13,152 --> 00:33:14,410
(distant singing)
535
00:33:14,410 --> 00:33:16,650
Meanwhile, just a few meters away,
536
00:33:16,650 --> 00:33:20,902
this country's schizophrenia
manifests to its full extent.
537
00:33:20,902 --> 00:33:22,140
(energetic music)
538
00:33:22,140 --> 00:33:24,770
Many Iranians live a Western lifestyle,
539
00:33:24,770 --> 00:33:26,890
brands such as Apple and Windows
540
00:33:26,890 --> 00:33:28,720
are displayed in shop windows.
541
00:33:38,360 --> 00:33:42,720
Fast food restaurants
copy KFC and McDonald's.
542
00:33:42,720 --> 00:33:45,100
In Tehran, there are the same temples
543
00:33:45,100 --> 00:33:48,290
of consumerism as in the United States.
544
00:33:48,290 --> 00:33:51,383
Once again, with American
brands everywhere.
545
00:33:51,383 --> 00:33:54,050
(distant music)
546
00:33:59,640 --> 00:34:02,720
We are in a fashion trade
fair for women only.
547
00:34:02,720 --> 00:34:05,260
Here, fashion designers use products from
548
00:34:05,260 --> 00:34:09,230
the United States in an unusual
way for their creations.
549
00:34:19,010 --> 00:34:21,860
And in fact, these clothes
have been subjected
550
00:34:21,860 --> 00:34:23,480
to the mullahs' criteria.
551
00:35:00,655 --> 00:35:01,690
(energetic music)
552
00:35:01,690 --> 00:35:05,030
The dress code imposed by
the regime forces women
553
00:35:05,030 --> 00:35:07,550
to cover every part of their body.
554
00:35:07,550 --> 00:35:11,230
The coat covers their shape,
but is their only outward sign
555
00:35:11,230 --> 00:35:12,990
of elegance, with the scarf.
556
00:35:28,889 --> 00:35:32,222
Leila and Nahid are 22 and 27 years old.
557
00:35:33,070 --> 00:35:35,670
Like the majority of
young women their age,
558
00:35:35,670 --> 00:35:39,520
it's the conundrum of how to
feel attractive in public.
559
00:35:39,520 --> 00:35:42,930
We are headed for a shopping
center in the north of Tehran.
560
00:35:42,930 --> 00:35:46,020
In this shop, Leila and
Nahid have the choice
561
00:35:46,020 --> 00:35:48,729
between this classic
coat, which is a bit dull.
562
00:35:48,729 --> 00:35:51,396
(distant music)
563
00:35:54,280 --> 00:35:56,930
Or a more lively version, such as this one
564
00:35:56,930 --> 00:35:58,740
with an American influence.
565
00:35:58,740 --> 00:36:00,350
Minnie is a Disney character.
566
00:36:10,400 --> 00:36:11,800
In the end, it's a coat with
567
00:36:11,800 --> 00:36:15,170
a church window motif
that catches Leila's eye.
568
00:36:37,630 --> 00:36:40,860
The sellers intervene in
order to start a conversation,
569
00:36:40,860 --> 00:36:43,730
to try their luck, and it works.
570
00:36:43,730 --> 00:36:47,450
Except in Iran, people don't
give out their phone numbers.
571
00:37:01,339 --> 00:37:03,610
Since young unmarried
people aren't allowed to go
572
00:37:03,610 --> 00:37:06,530
for a walk together or to meet in a cafe,
573
00:37:06,530 --> 00:37:09,241
they usually use social networks to date.
574
00:37:09,241 --> 00:37:10,190
(energetic music)
575
00:37:10,190 --> 00:37:12,700
Two levels up, we meet Roxanne.
576
00:37:12,700 --> 00:37:15,730
This young woman, a student
from the upper classes,
577
00:37:15,730 --> 00:37:19,530
is addicted to shopping,
especially big Western brands
578
00:37:19,530 --> 00:37:22,720
such as this famous
American lingerie retailer.
579
00:37:30,802 --> 00:37:31,635
(energetic music)
580
00:37:31,635 --> 00:37:34,970
Once again, we are struck
by the Iranian paradox.
581
00:37:34,970 --> 00:37:38,890
On the one hand, a strict,
religious society, on the other,
582
00:37:38,890 --> 00:37:41,030
the selling of products that are forbidden
583
00:37:41,030 --> 00:37:44,620
to be worn in the street,
like these dresses.
584
00:37:44,620 --> 00:37:47,330
Roxanne is 30 years old, and this evening
585
00:37:47,330 --> 00:37:51,080
is her pre-engagement
party at her parents' home,
586
00:37:51,080 --> 00:37:54,080
so she's looking for the perfect dress.
587
00:37:54,080 --> 00:37:56,860
In the end, it's not in
the shopping center, but in
588
00:37:56,860 --> 00:38:00,760
the luxury boutiques of
Zafaraniyeh, the glamorous part
589
00:38:00,760 --> 00:38:04,250
of Tehran, that she finds
what she's looking for.
590
00:38:04,250 --> 00:38:07,570
But here, there are no
overcoats, only lighter garments.
591
00:38:33,440 --> 00:38:36,430
Even here, we're never
far from religious police
592
00:38:36,430 --> 00:38:37,690
and their rules.
593
00:38:37,690 --> 00:38:39,360
But no one follows them.
594
00:38:43,336 --> 00:38:46,253
(energetic music)
595
00:39:32,570 --> 00:39:35,460
Several hours later,
we meet Roxanne again,
596
00:39:35,460 --> 00:39:37,310
this time at her house.
597
00:39:37,310 --> 00:39:40,220
In this upper-class family,
they practically live
598
00:39:40,220 --> 00:39:42,760
as Westerners, far from the restrictions
599
00:39:42,760 --> 00:39:44,710
imposed by the mullahs.
600
00:39:44,710 --> 00:39:48,920
Here, the women wear short
skirts, the men ties.
601
00:39:48,920 --> 00:39:51,680
As in many Iranian families, in private,
602
00:39:51,680 --> 00:39:54,430
they don't observe the religious rules.
603
00:39:54,430 --> 00:39:57,210
Roxanne is expecting her future in-laws.
604
00:40:05,420 --> 00:40:06,980
Her mother is feeling emotional
605
00:40:06,980 --> 00:40:08,820
about her daughter getting married.
606
00:40:23,989 --> 00:40:27,489
Her fiancee and his family arrive at last.
607
00:40:28,409 --> 00:40:30,659
(applause)
608
00:40:38,118 --> 00:40:39,920
To immortalize the moment, Nouri,
609
00:40:39,920 --> 00:40:42,500
the brother-in-law, acts as photographer.
610
00:40:43,520 --> 00:40:46,380
Immediately afterwards, the talks begin.
611
00:40:46,380 --> 00:40:49,490
Mana, the fiancee's aunt, stays out of it.
612
00:41:07,170 --> 00:41:09,900
That's about 66,000 euros.
613
00:41:13,710 --> 00:41:17,250
But it's not the woman who
pays the dowry, it's the man.
614
00:41:17,250 --> 00:41:19,290
In case of divorce, he must give
615
00:41:19,290 --> 00:41:21,630
this sum of money to his wife.
616
00:41:21,630 --> 00:41:24,706
In Iran, this practice is called Mehrieh.
617
00:41:24,706 --> 00:41:25,560
(applause)
618
00:41:25,560 --> 00:41:27,930
Additionally, the husband's family commit
619
00:41:27,930 --> 00:41:29,390
to providing a house.
620
00:41:36,062 --> 00:41:38,312
(laughter)
621
00:41:40,077 --> 00:41:42,327
(applause)
622
00:41:45,700 --> 00:41:48,860
To celebrate the engagement,
the family offer whisky
623
00:41:48,860 --> 00:41:50,570
and wine to the guests.
624
00:41:50,570 --> 00:41:52,070
Contraband, of course.
625
00:41:52,922 --> 00:41:55,030
(distant music)
626
00:41:55,030 --> 00:41:58,550
Every year, 60 to 80
million liters of alcohol
627
00:41:58,550 --> 00:42:01,560
are smuggled into the
country for a total cost
628
00:42:01,560 --> 00:42:04,850
of about 580 million euros.
629
00:42:12,069 --> 00:42:15,050
(traditional music)
630
00:42:15,050 --> 00:42:16,970
The following day, in Tehran,
631
00:42:16,970 --> 00:42:19,240
we discover another hidden world.
632
00:42:22,230 --> 00:42:24,620
A few feet away from the grand bazaar,
633
00:42:24,620 --> 00:42:26,610
where pistachio sellers jostle
634
00:42:26,610 --> 00:42:30,340
with religious banner sellers,
we've got permission to go
635
00:42:30,340 --> 00:42:32,980
in a place that is never normally on show.
636
00:42:38,669 --> 00:42:42,419
Here, there is no shop
window, no shop front.
637
00:42:45,349 --> 00:42:46,182
(knocking)
638
00:42:46,182 --> 00:42:47,330
You would think we were arriving
639
00:42:47,330 --> 00:42:50,190
at a private club, with its code.
640
00:42:50,190 --> 00:42:51,960
But it isn't at all.
641
00:42:51,960 --> 00:42:55,060
Welcome to an Iranian beauty salon.
642
00:42:55,060 --> 00:42:57,530
Clients can choose from dozens of styles
643
00:42:57,530 --> 00:42:59,600
and spend countless sums of money
644
00:42:59,600 --> 00:43:01,760
to make themselves beautiful.
645
00:43:01,760 --> 00:43:05,490
It's one of the few places
where women appear unveiled.
646
00:43:05,490 --> 00:43:08,350
This place is strictly off limits for men.
647
00:43:08,350 --> 00:43:11,240
Sophie, our journalist, goes in alone.
648
00:43:40,268 --> 00:43:43,518
Other women also come here for makeup.
649
00:43:48,250 --> 00:43:52,270
Iran is the world's seventh
biggest consumer of cosmetics,
650
00:43:52,270 --> 00:43:55,180
principally thanks to
mascara and lipstick sales.
651
00:44:35,509 --> 00:44:36,790
(calm music)
652
00:44:36,790 --> 00:44:39,640
But that will be in a
closed environment again,
653
00:44:39,640 --> 00:44:41,120
in an apartment.
654
00:44:41,120 --> 00:44:44,150
Since in Tehran, in order
to feel really free,
655
00:44:44,150 --> 00:44:46,280
you have to get out of the city center.
656
00:44:48,900 --> 00:44:52,580
Every weekend, just an hour's
drive away, hundreds of people
657
00:44:52,580 --> 00:44:55,710
go to this forest to let off steam.
658
00:44:55,710 --> 00:44:58,420
This is where Leila, the
young woman who bought
659
00:44:58,420 --> 00:45:01,750
the brightly patterned
coat, has agreed to meet us.
660
00:45:01,750 --> 00:45:05,120
With her university friends,
she stays out of view,
661
00:45:05,120 --> 00:45:07,270
in search of a place to be free.
662
00:45:07,270 --> 00:45:09,420
Because even in the thick of the woods,
663
00:45:09,420 --> 00:45:11,450
the regime is never far away.
664
00:45:11,450 --> 00:45:13,783
(pop music)
665
00:45:35,450 --> 00:45:37,710
Two men dressed as civilians are members
666
00:45:37,710 --> 00:45:39,420
of the religious police.
667
00:45:39,420 --> 00:45:42,660
They have authority over
everyone, even the army.
668
00:45:52,647 --> 00:45:55,170
Leila and her friends normally meet here.
669
00:45:55,170 --> 00:45:56,970
None of them are married, they don't have
670
00:45:56,970 --> 00:45:59,450
the right to touch, talk or flirt.
671
00:45:59,450 --> 00:46:02,280
The girls usually remain
vigilant and don't dare
672
00:46:02,280 --> 00:46:05,580
take their veils off, even
when they are out of sight.
673
00:47:32,510 --> 00:47:34,970
In this forest, the
young people laugh about
674
00:47:34,970 --> 00:47:38,510
all the laws they've broken
there since this afternoon.
675
00:47:44,971 --> 00:47:47,304
(pop music)
676
00:47:50,240 --> 00:47:52,200
Dancing is also not allowed.
677
00:47:56,240 --> 00:47:59,170
Neither is hugging or
smoking if you are a woman.
678
00:48:01,720 --> 00:48:05,390
Azad risks receiving
lashes for smoking a joint.
679
00:48:23,760 --> 00:48:26,020
While these young people
are breaking the law,
680
00:48:26,020 --> 00:48:28,070
that's not the case for all of them.
681
00:48:28,070 --> 00:48:30,780
Not far from here, another
group of youngsters
682
00:48:30,780 --> 00:48:33,870
go about their business
while staying within the law.
683
00:48:40,710 --> 00:48:43,040
While the middle classes generally choose
684
00:48:43,040 --> 00:48:46,380
this forest near Tehran,
wealthier young Iranians
685
00:48:46,380 --> 00:48:50,230
have their own refuge a hundred
kilometers further north.
686
00:48:50,230 --> 00:48:51,775
Dizin.
687
00:48:51,775 --> 00:48:53,500
(energetic music)
688
00:48:53,500 --> 00:48:57,100
Two hours' drive from Tehran,
we discover another world
689
00:48:57,100 --> 00:48:59,510
where most taboos are overlooked.
690
00:48:59,510 --> 00:49:02,950
Welcome to one of the
country's 13 ski stations.
691
00:49:16,250 --> 00:49:18,860
At first glance, everything is in order.
692
00:49:18,860 --> 00:49:21,700
The ski lift employees are all veiled.
693
00:49:21,700 --> 00:49:24,620
Up on the ski slopes,
members of the moral police
694
00:49:24,620 --> 00:49:27,640
call to order anyone
who lets her hair show.
695
00:49:35,470 --> 00:49:37,590
But further into the ski resort,
696
00:49:37,590 --> 00:49:40,772
the religious police
seem to turn a blind eye.
697
00:49:40,772 --> 00:49:43,605
(energetic music)
698
00:49:45,280 --> 00:49:48,733
Welcome to the paradise of
the young Iranian jet set.
699
00:49:48,733 --> 00:49:49,630
(cheering)
700
00:49:49,630 --> 00:49:51,590
Dizin is basically a little corner of
701
00:49:51,590 --> 00:49:54,570
the West reserved only for the elite.
702
00:49:54,570 --> 00:49:58,530
The music that is normally
forbidden is played full blast.
703
00:49:58,530 --> 00:50:01,100
Skiers let their veils fall off.
704
00:50:01,100 --> 00:50:05,000
In the plastic bottles and
flasks, there is alcohol.
705
00:50:05,000 --> 00:50:08,440
These wealthy young women
seem to live in another world,
706
00:50:08,440 --> 00:50:11,020
far from the reality of their own country.
707
00:50:12,344 --> 00:50:14,761
- For women, this is freedom.
708
00:50:19,760 --> 00:50:21,850
I can not cover my face, you can see.
709
00:50:21,850 --> 00:50:24,849
- [Jacques] You don't
have to cover your hair?
710
00:50:24,849 --> 00:50:29,260
- There is no need, just
here you should cover,
711
00:50:29,260 --> 00:50:30,900
not all, you can see.
712
00:50:33,160 --> 00:50:35,760
- [Narrator] It is in this
bubble above Tehran that,
713
00:50:35,760 --> 00:50:37,840
for the first time on our trip,
714
00:50:37,840 --> 00:50:41,813
Iranians dare to criticize
the regime openly.
715
00:50:41,813 --> 00:50:44,646
- We have a problem on government.
716
00:50:46,890 --> 00:50:49,740
All of the people, many
of the people in Iran,
717
00:50:49,740 --> 00:50:54,540
Iranian people don't like
the government and the rules
718
00:50:54,540 --> 00:50:58,670
of government, but we can't do anything.
719
00:50:58,670 --> 00:50:59,503
(ominous music)
720
00:50:59,503 --> 00:51:01,670
- [Narrator] This repressive
regime has long been shunned
721
00:51:01,670 --> 00:51:03,740
by the international community.
722
00:51:03,740 --> 00:51:05,730
This country, which defied the West
723
00:51:05,730 --> 00:51:09,550
by attempting to gain nuclear
weapons, finally conceded.
724
00:51:09,550 --> 00:51:13,780
A year ago, Iran pledged to
reduce its uranium stockpile.
725
00:51:13,780 --> 00:51:17,730
In exchange, economic sanctions
were partially suspended,
726
00:51:17,730 --> 00:51:20,480
France began trading with Iran again.
727
00:51:20,480 --> 00:51:25,470
In 2016, president Hassan
Rohani toured European capitals
728
00:51:25,470 --> 00:51:29,020
to sign a contract presenting
the new face of Iran.
729
00:51:29,020 --> 00:51:32,030
The question of human rights
has barely been raised.
730
00:51:32,030 --> 00:51:35,260
In Iran, where a thousand
executions are carried out
731
00:51:35,260 --> 00:51:39,427
every year, there are 160
minors currently on death row.
57688
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