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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:00,269 --> 00:00:01,410 (ominous music) 2 00:00:01,410 --> 00:00:04,100 - [Narrator] This breath-taking scenery can be found in one 3 00:00:04,100 --> 00:00:06,860 of the most mysterious countries in the world, 4 00:00:06,860 --> 00:00:09,070 the Islamic Republic of Iran. 5 00:00:11,510 --> 00:00:13,590 Today, the most important ceremony 6 00:00:13,590 --> 00:00:17,180 of the year, Achoura, is taking place. 7 00:00:17,180 --> 00:00:20,440 The religious leaders, the mullahs, are commemorating 8 00:00:20,440 --> 00:00:22,997 the martyr Imam Hussein. 9 00:00:22,997 --> 00:00:27,080 (man speaks in foreign language) 10 00:00:29,610 --> 00:00:32,460 This spiritual leader that they venerate is one of 11 00:00:32,460 --> 00:00:34,940 the founding father of Shi'ism, 12 00:00:34,940 --> 00:00:37,660 a minority sect within Islam. 13 00:00:37,660 --> 00:00:39,810 He was killed in the seventh century 14 00:00:39,810 --> 00:00:42,508 by other Muslims, the Sunnis. 15 00:00:42,508 --> 00:00:45,260 (traditional music) 16 00:00:45,260 --> 00:00:47,470 In order to commemorate this murder, 17 00:00:47,470 --> 00:00:50,730 and the pain of Hussein, when the sermon is over, 18 00:00:50,730 --> 00:00:53,490 men publicly whip themselves. 19 00:01:00,802 --> 00:01:03,780 Then everyone gets covered in mud as a sign that each one 20 00:01:03,780 --> 00:01:07,440 of these Iranians is prepared to be buried with the Imam. 21 00:01:14,011 --> 00:01:14,844 (traditional music) 22 00:01:14,844 --> 00:01:16,390 In Iran, woe betide the person 23 00:01:16,390 --> 00:01:18,990 who does not take religion seriously, 24 00:01:18,990 --> 00:01:21,760 as that is how all the rules are dictated. 25 00:01:21,760 --> 00:01:24,450 In this country, Sharia law is observed. 26 00:01:24,450 --> 00:01:27,750 Practically everything is forbidden: drinking alcohol, 27 00:01:27,750 --> 00:01:31,830 owning a dog, and of course, going outside with a veil. 28 00:01:31,830 --> 00:01:34,720 In this religious dictatorship, the death penalty 29 00:01:34,720 --> 00:01:37,590 is regularly applied, even to children. 30 00:01:37,590 --> 00:01:40,370 Iran is the country that executes the most, 31 00:01:40,370 --> 00:01:41,760 just behind China. 32 00:01:41,760 --> 00:01:45,540 In 2016, nearly 900 people were executed, 33 00:01:45,540 --> 00:01:47,410 of which 5 were minors. 34 00:01:47,410 --> 00:01:50,310 Adultery or homosexuality are punishable 35 00:01:50,310 --> 00:01:53,210 with the death penalty, as is drug trafficking. 36 00:02:09,943 --> 00:02:11,950 But as you will see, the younger generation, 37 00:02:11,950 --> 00:02:14,490 hungry for freedom, do break the rules, 38 00:02:14,490 --> 00:02:17,136 sometimes endangering their lives. 39 00:02:17,136 --> 00:02:20,260 (suspenseful music) 40 00:02:20,260 --> 00:02:23,450 This evening, we have been invited to a secret gathering 41 00:02:23,450 --> 00:02:26,700 in an upmarket neighborhood of Tehran. 42 00:02:26,700 --> 00:02:29,700 In Iran, there is no bar or nightclub, 43 00:02:29,700 --> 00:02:32,260 so the parties are held in apartments. 44 00:02:32,260 --> 00:02:36,040 Inside, there are a dozen students, boys and girls mixed, 45 00:02:36,040 --> 00:02:37,890 who are listening to music. 46 00:02:37,890 --> 00:02:40,020 Tattoos, dyed hair. 47 00:02:40,020 --> 00:02:41,960 We are a long way from the image that 48 00:02:41,960 --> 00:02:44,610 the mullahs would want Iran to show. 49 00:02:44,610 --> 00:02:47,620 This evening, we could almost believe we were in Paris. 50 00:02:55,440 --> 00:02:58,340 Only here, what these young people are doing is forbidden. 51 00:03:13,020 --> 00:03:15,070 - Everywhere you wanna go, you have to be 52 00:03:15,070 --> 00:03:16,220 scared of the police. 53 00:03:16,220 --> 00:03:18,360 Like, they're gonna come here, 54 00:03:18,360 --> 00:03:20,670 they're gonna take you, you know? 55 00:03:21,510 --> 00:03:24,573 And I have experience with it. 56 00:03:24,573 --> 00:03:26,970 - [Jacques] You can tell us about the experience? 57 00:03:26,970 --> 00:03:29,520 - Actually, if it's not gonna be, 58 00:03:30,875 --> 00:03:32,879 if it's not gonna make any trouble for me. 59 00:03:32,879 --> 00:03:35,388 - [Jacques] No, nothing like that. 60 00:03:35,388 --> 00:03:36,850 - Okay. 61 00:03:36,850 --> 00:03:40,510 One time, we were partying, we were like 20 people, just 20. 62 00:03:42,170 --> 00:03:46,337 And they came and took us away and it was so scary. 63 00:03:47,380 --> 00:03:51,260 Ever since then, I'm very scared. 64 00:03:51,260 --> 00:03:56,150 Everywhere I go, I just imagine them coming in 65 00:03:56,150 --> 00:03:58,747 and taking us away again. 66 00:03:58,747 --> 00:04:00,120 And they hit us. 67 00:04:00,120 --> 00:04:02,420 - [Narrator] Another law that's broken at these events: 68 00:04:02,420 --> 00:04:04,750 the clothes they were are considered provocative 69 00:04:04,750 --> 00:04:06,622 through religious eyes. 70 00:04:06,622 --> 00:04:08,580 - [Jacques] Can you go out like that? 71 00:04:08,580 --> 00:04:09,880 - [Female Speaker] Yeah, but if they catch me, 72 00:04:09,880 --> 00:04:10,870 I could go to jail. 73 00:04:12,050 --> 00:04:14,320 - [Narrator] For wearing this slim cut pair of jeans 74 00:04:14,320 --> 00:04:16,940 which show her knees, this young woman risks 75 00:04:16,940 --> 00:04:19,070 being detained for 12 days. 76 00:04:19,070 --> 00:04:22,150 Her friend has no qualms about mocking the regime. 77 00:04:22,150 --> 00:04:23,313 - [Jacques] Do you never go to the mosque? 78 00:04:23,313 --> 00:04:25,715 - [Male Speaker] Yeah, I go to mosque to pee. 79 00:04:25,715 --> 00:04:28,960 - [Female Speaker] I don't, I don't even pee there! 80 00:04:28,960 --> 00:04:31,340 - [Narrator] This young woman who never goes to the mosque 81 00:04:31,340 --> 00:04:33,340 is going to break another law tonight. 82 00:04:33,340 --> 00:04:34,530 The most dangerous. 83 00:04:46,070 --> 00:04:49,510 This very important phone call is to order some alcohol. 84 00:04:50,387 --> 00:04:52,743 - [Jacques] You are the expert for the alcohol? 85 00:04:52,743 --> 00:04:55,280 - (laughs) No, I just know the guy. 86 00:04:55,280 --> 00:04:57,448 (laughs) 87 00:04:57,448 --> 00:04:58,865 How does it work? 88 00:05:00,365 --> 00:05:03,860 You get to know these people from your friends and then 89 00:05:03,860 --> 00:05:05,446 you get their numbers, and whenever you want, 90 00:05:05,446 --> 00:05:07,490 you just call them, they bring it to you 91 00:05:07,490 --> 00:05:08,770 or send it with a taxi. 92 00:05:10,868 --> 00:05:12,980 And then you just pay online. 93 00:05:12,980 --> 00:05:14,997 - [Jacques] Is that all? 94 00:05:14,997 --> 00:05:15,830 It's that easy? 95 00:05:15,830 --> 00:05:16,941 - Yes. 96 00:05:16,941 --> 00:05:19,400 (laughs) 97 00:05:19,400 --> 00:05:20,233 - [Narrator] Despite the laughter, 98 00:05:20,233 --> 00:05:21,970 fear can be felt everywhere. 99 00:05:21,970 --> 00:05:23,830 The owner of the apartment asks us 100 00:05:23,830 --> 00:05:26,330 to move the camera further away. 101 00:05:26,330 --> 00:05:29,080 - [Male Speaker] I don't want you to see the address. 102 00:05:30,120 --> 00:05:31,630 - [Narrator] Awaiting the delivery, in the kitchen, 103 00:05:31,630 --> 00:05:33,990 the group are breaking Sharia law again. 104 00:05:38,490 --> 00:05:39,916 - [Male Speaker] Everything is possible. 105 00:05:39,916 --> 00:05:42,565 - [Jacques] You don't get in trouble? 106 00:05:42,565 --> 00:05:46,648 - [Male Speaker] Sometimes, but you can solve it. 107 00:05:49,190 --> 00:05:51,690 Alcohol, yeah, they are more sensitive on alcohol. 108 00:05:55,840 --> 00:05:59,210 - [Narrator] 15 minutes later, the vodka arrives. 109 00:05:59,210 --> 00:06:01,410 Bear in mind that the consumption of alcohol 110 00:06:01,410 --> 00:06:03,660 is punishable with 40 lashes. 111 00:06:03,660 --> 00:06:06,190 Repeat offenders can face the death penalty. 112 00:06:08,390 --> 00:06:09,710 - [Male Speaker] Cheers. 113 00:06:09,710 --> 00:06:11,430 - [Narrator] In this country, where their future 114 00:06:11,430 --> 00:06:14,190 seems bleak, the younger generation are prepared to take 115 00:06:14,190 --> 00:06:16,750 all sorts of risks in order to escape from 116 00:06:16,750 --> 00:06:19,770 the daily drudgery imposed by the mullahs. 117 00:06:19,770 --> 00:06:22,840 This thirst for life that the Iranian youth have 118 00:06:22,840 --> 00:06:24,760 can be felt throughout the city. 119 00:06:24,760 --> 00:06:27,130 Tonight, from our hotel room, we detect 120 00:06:27,130 --> 00:06:29,750 that there is another secret party going on, 121 00:06:29,750 --> 00:06:31,874 this one is a lot less discrete. 122 00:06:31,874 --> 00:06:32,707 (electronic music) 123 00:06:32,707 --> 00:06:35,250 Breaking the law and risking one's life has almost become 124 00:06:35,250 --> 00:06:39,060 par for the course in Iran, especially among young people. 125 00:06:39,060 --> 00:06:43,650 The under 35s represent more than 50% of the population, 126 00:06:43,650 --> 00:06:46,900 and they want to live in the Western way, to free themselves 127 00:06:46,900 --> 00:06:50,228 from the religious laws that are suffocating them. 128 00:06:50,228 --> 00:06:52,670 (calm music) 129 00:06:52,670 --> 00:06:55,610 In order to make this film on forbidden Iran 130 00:06:55,610 --> 00:06:59,220 and to avoid censorship by the regime, we have come here 131 00:06:59,220 --> 00:07:02,210 as a couple, as if we were just tourists. 132 00:07:02,210 --> 00:07:04,580 A man and a woman with camcorders, 133 00:07:04,580 --> 00:07:06,780 we are Jacques and Sophie. 134 00:07:06,780 --> 00:07:10,500 Taking advantage of newly opened direct flights from Paris, 135 00:07:10,500 --> 00:07:13,890 we are headed for Tehran, the capital of this country 136 00:07:13,890 --> 00:07:17,440 sandwiched between Iraq and Afghanistan. 137 00:07:17,440 --> 00:07:19,590 We risk months of imprisonment if 138 00:07:19,590 --> 00:07:21,620 the police catch us with our footage. 139 00:07:22,950 --> 00:07:25,550 In order to understand how Iran was plunged 140 00:07:25,550 --> 00:07:29,580 into religious dictatorship, we have to go back fifty years. 141 00:07:31,450 --> 00:07:35,887 During the 60s, the country was led by a king, the Shah. 142 00:07:35,887 --> 00:07:38,770 (ominous music) 143 00:07:38,770 --> 00:07:42,210 At the time, Tehran, the capital, was a modern city, 144 00:07:42,210 --> 00:07:44,460 women wore skirts, not scarves. 145 00:07:44,460 --> 00:07:46,220 They even had the right to vote. 146 00:07:47,180 --> 00:07:49,920 Thanks to royalties paid by petrol companies, 147 00:07:49,920 --> 00:07:52,260 the Shah became enormously wealthy. 148 00:07:52,260 --> 00:07:54,867 It could even be said he lived in opulence. 149 00:07:54,867 --> 00:07:57,117 (cheering) 150 00:07:59,478 --> 00:08:02,395 (orchestral music) 151 00:08:08,280 --> 00:08:09,670 - [Narrator] But while the Iranian elite 152 00:08:09,670 --> 00:08:12,190 do well out of this economic progress, 153 00:08:12,190 --> 00:08:14,960 the working classes are getting poorer and poorer. 154 00:08:15,870 --> 00:08:18,710 From 1978, people started to take 155 00:08:18,710 --> 00:08:21,850 a stand against such great inequalities. 156 00:08:21,850 --> 00:08:23,740 In the face of this popular front, 157 00:08:23,740 --> 00:08:25,550 the Shah gave up his power. 158 00:08:25,550 --> 00:08:27,770 He was never to return. 159 00:08:27,770 --> 00:08:30,470 At the same time, the Shah's main opposition, 160 00:08:30,470 --> 00:08:34,670 an Iranian religious chief, was preparing for a revolution. 161 00:08:34,670 --> 00:08:36,640 He was living in France. 162 00:08:36,640 --> 00:08:40,660 The Ayatollah Khomeini found refuge in Neauphle-le-Chateau 163 00:08:40,660 --> 00:08:42,400 in the Parisian suburbs. 164 00:08:50,505 --> 00:08:54,769 Upon his return to Iran, the Ayatollah was hailed leader. 165 00:08:54,769 --> 00:08:57,200 (chanting) 166 00:08:57,200 --> 00:08:59,610 He became the supreme leader, the leader 167 00:08:59,610 --> 00:09:01,550 of the Iranian revolution. 168 00:09:01,550 --> 00:09:05,680 Religious rule was henceforth above political power. 169 00:09:05,680 --> 00:09:09,500 Khomeini set up a moral police force, a militia comprised 170 00:09:09,500 --> 00:09:12,520 of four million agents, the Bassijis. 171 00:09:12,520 --> 00:09:15,120 Today, they still oversee the good conduct 172 00:09:15,120 --> 00:09:16,970 of 80 million Iranians. 173 00:09:20,742 --> 00:09:22,680 They're on every street corner but also 174 00:09:22,680 --> 00:09:25,250 in the parks and even on the ski slopes, 175 00:09:25,250 --> 00:09:27,910 they're everywhere, ready to serve. 176 00:09:27,910 --> 00:09:29,680 Underground inquiry into one of 177 00:09:29,680 --> 00:09:33,410 the most oppressive religious dictatorships in the world. 178 00:09:38,159 --> 00:09:41,076 (percussion music) 179 00:09:43,090 --> 00:09:46,240 The foot of the Elbourz mountains, Tehran. 180 00:09:46,240 --> 00:09:48,270 One in five Iranians live here, 181 00:09:48,270 --> 00:09:51,150 that's more than 15 million inhabitants. 182 00:09:51,150 --> 00:09:54,810 In this capital, two worlds bustle along together. 183 00:09:54,810 --> 00:09:58,370 On the one hand, the old city, traditional, with its bazaar, 184 00:09:58,370 --> 00:10:00,040 its mosques, its mullahs. 185 00:10:02,370 --> 00:10:05,260 In another, a modern city with its buildings, 186 00:10:05,260 --> 00:10:08,995 shopping centers, and its fashion conscious young people. 187 00:10:08,995 --> 00:10:11,000 (calm instrumental music) 188 00:10:11,000 --> 00:10:13,920 Two worlds which sometimes meet where chadors 189 00:10:13,920 --> 00:10:17,360 and black veils rub against brightly colored lingerie. 190 00:10:21,180 --> 00:10:23,760 Tehran has another striking characteristic 191 00:10:23,760 --> 00:10:25,500 for tourists like us. 192 00:10:25,500 --> 00:10:27,920 Military and police are everywhere. 193 00:10:27,920 --> 00:10:31,200 And they're not just there for show, as we soon discover. 194 00:10:31,200 --> 00:10:32,940 Our first stop in the capital 195 00:10:32,940 --> 00:10:36,070 is a famous promenade: the Tabiat Bridge. 196 00:10:37,910 --> 00:10:41,010 (distant singing) 197 00:10:41,010 --> 00:10:43,570 We come back after three minutes and already, 198 00:10:43,570 --> 00:10:45,780 a uniformed officer stops us. 199 00:11:29,120 --> 00:11:32,140 That's cleared that one up, it is clearly not okay 200 00:11:32,140 --> 00:11:34,750 to film inside this police state. 201 00:11:34,750 --> 00:11:37,070 For the rest of the day, we found a driver 202 00:11:37,070 --> 00:11:39,050 who'll agree to our camera. 203 00:11:39,050 --> 00:11:41,750 We tried our luck with about 10 different drivers, 204 00:11:41,750 --> 00:11:43,440 but they all said no. 205 00:11:43,440 --> 00:11:46,090 We were starting to get desperate when we came across 206 00:11:46,090 --> 00:11:49,920 a 30-something Tehrani who breaks all the rules. 207 00:11:49,920 --> 00:11:51,831 Let's call him Farad. 208 00:11:51,831 --> 00:11:54,164 (pop music) 209 00:11:59,680 --> 00:12:02,040 It seems harmless, but the modern music 210 00:12:02,040 --> 00:12:03,730 he's listening to is forbidden. 211 00:12:29,830 --> 00:12:32,000 (pop music) 212 00:12:32,000 --> 00:12:34,020 Farad doesn't just listen to music. 213 00:12:34,020 --> 00:12:36,050 In his car, anything goes. 214 00:12:36,050 --> 00:12:39,440 Even breaking another law, an even riskier one for him. 215 00:12:52,340 --> 00:12:55,680 A study carried out by the Iranian police between April 216 00:12:55,680 --> 00:12:58,520 and May 2012 showed that a quarter 217 00:12:58,520 --> 00:13:00,650 of the drivers stopped were drunk. 218 00:13:00,650 --> 00:13:02,820 Farad feels free behind the wheel, 219 00:13:02,820 --> 00:13:05,080 but his car hasn't always protected him. 220 00:13:52,841 --> 00:13:54,310 (traditional music) 221 00:13:54,310 --> 00:13:57,790 One million Iranians are regular drinkers, although the sale 222 00:13:57,790 --> 00:14:00,440 of alcoholic beverages is officially forbidden 223 00:14:00,440 --> 00:14:04,340 in the country, even in international hotel chains. 224 00:14:04,340 --> 00:14:07,410 As a result of this prohibition, some Iranians 225 00:14:07,410 --> 00:14:10,700 have thrown themselves into the secret underground business 226 00:14:10,700 --> 00:14:13,680 of alcohol production, an activity 227 00:14:13,680 --> 00:14:16,290 that can get you sent straight to prison. 228 00:14:16,290 --> 00:14:18,610 Trying to convince one of these bootleggers 229 00:14:18,610 --> 00:14:21,590 to talk to us proved difficult, and many of those 230 00:14:21,590 --> 00:14:25,100 we contacted said no at the last minute. 231 00:14:25,100 --> 00:14:27,780 Thanks to an intermediary, a couple involved 232 00:14:27,780 --> 00:14:31,010 in this black market finally agreed to meet us. 233 00:14:31,010 --> 00:14:33,290 In order not to endanger them, we double 234 00:14:33,290 --> 00:14:35,150 our efforts to be careful. 235 00:14:35,150 --> 00:14:37,440 Anyone in civilian clothing could be 236 00:14:37,440 --> 00:14:39,640 an informant of the regime. 237 00:14:39,640 --> 00:14:42,230 To get to the meeting, we therefore change means 238 00:14:42,230 --> 00:14:46,397 of transport several times in order not to leave any tracks. 239 00:14:49,521 --> 00:14:51,660 (man speaks in foreign language) 240 00:14:51,660 --> 00:14:54,910 After 45 minutes making detours around town, 241 00:14:54,910 --> 00:14:56,830 we finally reach our destination. 242 00:14:56,830 --> 00:14:59,180 - [Male Speaker] We can open it in the kitchen. 243 00:15:00,620 --> 00:15:02,870 - [Narrator] Amine and Kiana are bootleggers. 244 00:15:05,209 --> 00:15:06,915 - [Male Speaker] Don't worry, open it. 245 00:15:06,915 --> 00:15:08,327 - [Kiana] I don't want to. 246 00:15:08,327 --> 00:15:10,340 - [Male Speaker] Open it slowly. 247 00:15:10,340 --> 00:15:11,990 - [Narrator] They are 20-somethings living 248 00:15:11,990 --> 00:15:14,530 in an apartment borrowed from their parents. 249 00:15:14,530 --> 00:15:18,930 Both are unemployed, as are 27% of young Iranians. 250 00:15:18,930 --> 00:15:22,190 That figure reaches even 40% among young women. 251 00:15:26,530 --> 00:15:27,763 - [Jacques] Are there many people 252 00:15:27,763 --> 00:15:31,100 who do this kind of action actually? 253 00:15:31,100 --> 00:15:33,482 - In here, about making beers? 254 00:15:33,482 --> 00:15:34,815 - [Jacques] Yes. 255 00:15:37,120 --> 00:15:40,140 - It's not common, but some of my friends, 256 00:15:40,140 --> 00:15:44,307 a few of my friends do this, same as me. 257 00:15:45,350 --> 00:15:49,517 Everyone has their own recipes for making beer. 258 00:15:51,110 --> 00:15:52,430 - [Narrator] For these bootleggers, 259 00:15:52,430 --> 00:15:55,080 the procedure isn't very complicated. 260 00:15:55,080 --> 00:15:57,910 The regime almost makes their task easy. 261 00:15:57,910 --> 00:16:01,580 It manufactures non-alcoholic beer, a good base. 262 00:16:03,120 --> 00:16:06,520 In fact, for Amine, it's the manufacturer, also known 263 00:16:06,520 --> 00:16:09,380 as the state, which does the most difficult part. 264 00:16:10,691 --> 00:16:12,580 - You know, it's very hard to make this kind 265 00:16:12,580 --> 00:16:15,940 of non-alcoholic beer, because the normal process 266 00:16:15,940 --> 00:16:18,970 of making beer has alcohol. 267 00:16:18,970 --> 00:16:21,130 But they have to do something 268 00:16:21,130 --> 00:16:25,470 to take alcohol out of the beer. 269 00:16:25,470 --> 00:16:28,540 - [Narrator] Amine only has to re-alcoholize it all, 270 00:16:28,540 --> 00:16:31,200 and he has the recipe at his fingertips. 271 00:16:31,200 --> 00:16:33,990 He starts by pouring sugar into the container. 272 00:16:35,080 --> 00:16:36,267 - [Kiana] It's easy. 273 00:16:36,267 --> 00:16:37,100 - [Jacques] It's easy? 274 00:16:37,100 --> 00:16:40,433 - Yeah, it's really easy, you'll see it. 275 00:16:43,000 --> 00:16:44,830 - [Jacques] And then how much degrees of alcohol 276 00:16:44,830 --> 00:16:46,330 you get at the end? 277 00:16:46,330 --> 00:16:49,700 - About eight, nine, sometimes more. 278 00:16:50,790 --> 00:16:53,060 - [Narrator] The beer has been mixed with the sugar, 279 00:16:53,060 --> 00:16:54,870 but it isn't ready yet. 280 00:16:54,870 --> 00:16:58,040 Amine adds a bit of brewer's yeast to make it ferment. 281 00:17:00,430 --> 00:17:01,780 - [Amine] It's almost done. 282 00:17:03,070 --> 00:17:06,980 - If you want to buy can of beers, 283 00:17:06,980 --> 00:17:11,147 it's much more expensive than this much. 284 00:17:12,630 --> 00:17:14,160 - [Jacques] How much is that, for example? 285 00:17:14,160 --> 00:17:17,920 - 25 or even 30,000 tomans for each can. 286 00:17:18,805 --> 00:17:20,702 - [Jacques] That means $10 for each can? 287 00:17:20,702 --> 00:17:21,535 - [Kiana] Yes. 288 00:17:21,535 --> 00:17:22,368 - [Amine] For each can, yes. 289 00:17:22,368 --> 00:17:24,530 - [Jacques] You don't sell the beer after it's-- 290 00:17:24,530 --> 00:17:28,300 - Erm, I sell to my close friends or friends of my friends. 291 00:17:28,300 --> 00:17:31,744 (ominous music) 292 00:17:31,744 --> 00:17:35,911 Usually, in cold weather, I put it near the fireplace. 293 00:17:40,184 --> 00:17:41,760 For example, here. 294 00:17:41,760 --> 00:17:43,670 - [Narrator] In one week, Amine and Kiana 295 00:17:43,670 --> 00:17:48,140 will have 10 liters of beer, alcohol content 10%. 296 00:17:48,140 --> 00:17:51,280 They therefore make about 100 liters per month, 297 00:17:51,280 --> 00:17:54,060 the equivalent of several hundred euros a week, 298 00:17:54,060 --> 00:17:56,210 which enables them to live decently. 299 00:17:57,053 --> 00:17:57,886 (percussion music) 300 00:17:57,886 --> 00:18:01,210 In Iran, the average salary is only 400 euros a month. 301 00:18:01,210 --> 00:18:04,360 A shoe shiner makes less than one euro a day, 302 00:18:04,360 --> 00:18:07,800 a teacher 10 euros a month at best. 303 00:18:07,800 --> 00:18:12,160 80% of Iranians live below the poverty line, but the regime, 304 00:18:12,160 --> 00:18:15,450 in contrast, has been spending countless sums of money 305 00:18:15,450 --> 00:18:19,940 over 30 years in order to build an ostentatious mausoleum 306 00:18:19,940 --> 00:18:23,110 in honor of their most important spiritual leader, 307 00:18:23,110 --> 00:18:24,530 Ayatollah Khomeini. 308 00:18:25,802 --> 00:18:28,090 (water splashing) 309 00:18:28,090 --> 00:18:31,760 We meet on site, the mausoleum is still being built. 310 00:18:31,760 --> 00:18:34,270 It covers 20 square kilometers, 311 00:18:34,270 --> 00:18:37,090 the equivalent of four Parisian districts. 312 00:18:38,220 --> 00:18:42,480 With its golden roofs, this building will cost $2 billion. 313 00:18:42,480 --> 00:18:46,160 A colossal sum in a country where seven million households 314 00:18:46,160 --> 00:18:48,960 don't have the means to pay the rent. 315 00:18:48,960 --> 00:18:52,160 The religious dictatorship seems at complete odds 316 00:18:52,160 --> 00:18:54,920 with its people, and that is what the guide, 317 00:18:54,920 --> 00:18:57,670 who doesn't know we're recording him, confirms. 318 00:18:59,500 --> 00:19:01,170 - [Jacques] How many people go on Friday 319 00:19:01,170 --> 00:19:03,060 to the mosque to pray? 320 00:19:03,060 --> 00:19:04,510 All the Iranian people? 321 00:19:05,450 --> 00:19:07,380 - [Guide] No, not all. 322 00:19:07,380 --> 00:19:08,230 It's very little. 323 00:19:09,784 --> 00:19:13,617 Only three, four or 5% of the population. 324 00:19:15,290 --> 00:19:16,360 - [Jacques] Not so much. 325 00:19:16,360 --> 00:19:17,600 - [Guide] No. 326 00:19:17,600 --> 00:19:20,350 - [Jacques] And if you don't go, there's no problems? 327 00:19:21,250 --> 00:19:22,276 - [Guide] No. 328 00:19:22,276 --> 00:19:24,785 - [Jacques] They don't care? 329 00:19:24,785 --> 00:19:27,690 - [Guide] For some kinds of employees, that they work 330 00:19:27,690 --> 00:19:31,560 for government and they work in the military, in the army, 331 00:19:31,560 --> 00:19:32,650 they have to go. 332 00:19:33,781 --> 00:19:36,180 - [Narrator] Nowadays, in order to generate revenue, 333 00:19:36,180 --> 00:19:39,120 Iran is developing its tourist sector. 334 00:19:39,120 --> 00:19:41,690 The country has gone from one million visitors 335 00:19:41,690 --> 00:19:45,857 in 2003 to five million in 2016. 336 00:19:46,930 --> 00:19:49,450 But in spite of such colossal investment, 337 00:19:49,450 --> 00:19:52,227 the mausoleum does not pull in the crowds. 338 00:19:52,227 --> 00:19:53,060 (ominous music) 339 00:19:53,060 --> 00:19:54,870 Inside, not one foreign tourist, 340 00:19:54,870 --> 00:19:57,650 only some Iranians here to pray. 341 00:19:57,650 --> 00:19:59,770 And the same rule as usual. 342 00:20:00,819 --> 00:20:01,652 - [Jacques] It's possible to film? 343 00:20:01,652 --> 00:20:02,760 - [Soldier] No, safety first. 344 00:20:05,030 --> 00:20:07,090 - [Narrator] We carry on filming discretely 345 00:20:07,090 --> 00:20:09,080 with a mobile phone anyway. 346 00:20:09,080 --> 00:20:11,730 There's marble and frescoes everywhere. 347 00:20:11,730 --> 00:20:13,730 Pilgrims and some mullahs come 348 00:20:13,730 --> 00:20:16,270 and gather around Khomeini's tomb. 349 00:20:16,270 --> 00:20:19,420 His remains are buried behind this gold and silver grate. 350 00:20:36,800 --> 00:20:39,490 This unusual place of devotion seems 351 00:20:39,490 --> 00:20:41,940 to attract only a few Iranians. 352 00:20:41,940 --> 00:20:43,680 The majority of them find it hard 353 00:20:43,680 --> 00:20:46,850 to accept such exorbitant expenditure 354 00:20:46,850 --> 00:20:49,400 and this personality cult. 355 00:20:49,400 --> 00:20:51,790 Even our guide has his reservations. 356 00:20:57,910 --> 00:20:59,800 - [Guide] For example, I, myself, I hate this kind 357 00:20:59,800 --> 00:21:02,910 of architecture, because it's related to religious... 358 00:21:04,569 --> 00:21:07,550 (distant singing) 359 00:21:07,550 --> 00:21:09,640 - [Narrator] It's in the name of this religion that 360 00:21:09,640 --> 00:21:12,900 the Ayatollahs multiply their prohibitions. 361 00:21:12,900 --> 00:21:16,410 Today in Iran, men don't have the right to wear shorts, 362 00:21:16,410 --> 00:21:18,900 and women are not allowed to ride a bicycle, 363 00:21:18,900 --> 00:21:23,250 an act considered too erotic by the moral police. 364 00:21:23,250 --> 00:21:25,780 But when night falls, when police patrols 365 00:21:25,780 --> 00:21:28,810 become more spaced out, some don't hesitate 366 00:21:28,810 --> 00:21:30,625 to break the mullahs' laws. 367 00:21:30,625 --> 00:21:31,458 (ominous music) 368 00:21:31,458 --> 00:21:33,370 We are headed for a park on the outskirts 369 00:21:33,370 --> 00:21:35,460 of town in a wealthy area, where 370 00:21:35,460 --> 00:21:37,530 all these walkers are breaking the law. 371 00:21:40,801 --> 00:21:42,210 (dogs barking) 372 00:21:42,210 --> 00:21:44,850 Their dogs put them at risk of sanctions. 373 00:21:44,850 --> 00:21:47,630 They are forbidden because they are considered unclean 374 00:21:47,630 --> 00:21:50,109 by religious leaders, like pigs. 375 00:21:50,109 --> 00:21:52,776 (dogs barking) 376 00:22:20,060 --> 00:22:22,310 However, if you are young and fashionable, 377 00:22:22,310 --> 00:22:25,230 having a dog in Tehran is very trendy, 378 00:22:25,230 --> 00:22:27,220 but it's a fashion that remains hidden. 379 00:22:32,650 --> 00:22:34,440 It's a Western fashion that only 380 00:22:34,440 --> 00:22:36,960 the richest can permit themselves, 381 00:22:36,960 --> 00:22:40,580 the fine costs a minimum of 500 euros. 382 00:22:40,580 --> 00:22:43,400 And if the animal is caught travelling by car, 383 00:22:43,400 --> 00:22:46,350 the vehicle can, quite simply, be confiscated. 384 00:23:01,020 --> 00:23:04,050 It costs up to 10,000 euros to buy a dog. 385 00:23:04,050 --> 00:23:07,170 The authorities regularly organize busts in order 386 00:23:07,170 --> 00:23:09,570 to confiscate these four-legged friends, 387 00:23:09,570 --> 00:23:11,760 to the great desperation of their owners. 388 00:23:21,427 --> 00:23:22,300 (ominous music) 389 00:23:22,300 --> 00:23:25,410 Whilst these young people don't rebel against everything 390 00:23:25,410 --> 00:23:29,360 while secretly awaiting change, on the other side of Tehran, 391 00:23:29,360 --> 00:23:31,580 we are going to meet a man who has decided 392 00:23:31,580 --> 00:23:35,290 to express his anger with the regime loud and clear. 393 00:23:35,290 --> 00:23:39,570 What he's eagerly doing is equated to political opposition. 394 00:23:39,570 --> 00:23:42,580 For that, he risks a very long prison sentence, 395 00:23:42,580 --> 00:23:46,530 and after a speedy trial, he could even be executed. 396 00:23:46,530 --> 00:23:49,310 This man is called Bam Bam, his weapons 397 00:23:49,310 --> 00:23:51,370 were bought legally from the shops. 398 00:23:51,370 --> 00:23:53,740 They are basic paint bombs. 399 00:23:53,740 --> 00:23:55,250 - [Jacques] Is it easy to find? 400 00:23:55,250 --> 00:23:59,280 - [Bam Bam] Yeah, it's cool, but police 401 00:23:59,280 --> 00:24:02,670 is everywhere, you cannot find everything you want. 402 00:24:02,670 --> 00:24:03,960 - [Narrator] Several times a month, 403 00:24:03,960 --> 00:24:06,420 he records his acts of resistance. 404 00:24:06,420 --> 00:24:09,087 (ominous music) 405 00:24:12,500 --> 00:24:15,160 This evening, he's going to the bridge that overlooks 406 00:24:15,160 --> 00:24:17,440 one of the main arteries of Tehran. 407 00:24:20,870 --> 00:24:23,270 And he writes the word hooligan. 408 00:24:23,270 --> 00:24:25,750 In Iran, these words are associated 409 00:24:25,750 --> 00:24:29,190 with political opposition, similar to times gone by 410 00:24:29,190 --> 00:24:31,950 in the former USSR where it was used 411 00:24:31,950 --> 00:24:35,860 to denote young people in opposition of the regime. 412 00:24:35,860 --> 00:24:40,027 Graffiti artists like Bam Bam feature on the mullahs' radar. 413 00:24:44,750 --> 00:24:47,800 Last year, Keywan Karimi was sentenced 414 00:24:47,800 --> 00:24:51,820 to 223 lashes and a year's imprisonment. 415 00:24:51,820 --> 00:24:52,680 His crime? 416 00:24:52,680 --> 00:24:54,920 Making a documentary on the history 417 00:24:54,920 --> 00:24:58,081 of Iran as told through graffiti. 418 00:24:58,081 --> 00:25:00,748 (intense music) 419 00:25:08,400 --> 00:25:10,710 But these heavy penalties don't put off 420 00:25:10,710 --> 00:25:12,670 graffiti artists like Bam Bam. 421 00:25:36,638 --> 00:25:37,471 (ominous music) 422 00:25:37,471 --> 00:25:39,830 But does the power really belong to the people? 423 00:25:39,830 --> 00:25:41,890 That's what the Iranian youth believed 424 00:25:41,890 --> 00:25:45,420 after the 2009 presidential election. 425 00:25:45,420 --> 00:25:48,920 Mir Hussein Moussavi, the reform candidate, 426 00:25:48,920 --> 00:25:51,960 was predicted to win by all the opinion polls. 427 00:25:51,960 --> 00:25:54,370 But election night amazed everyone. 428 00:25:54,370 --> 00:25:57,180 In the end, the ultra-conservative president 429 00:25:57,180 --> 00:26:00,870 Mahmoud Ahmadinejad was re-elected. 430 00:26:00,870 --> 00:26:03,080 He was accused of election fraud. 431 00:26:03,080 --> 00:26:05,690 The people took to the streets in protest. 432 00:26:05,690 --> 00:26:08,760 But the religious police, the Bassijis, the army, 433 00:26:08,760 --> 00:26:12,260 and the police are perpetrators of a bloody repression. 434 00:26:12,260 --> 00:26:16,270 At least 70 dead and more than 4,000 arrested. 435 00:26:16,270 --> 00:26:19,900 One tragedy attracted the attention of the outside world: 436 00:26:19,900 --> 00:26:23,720 Neda Agha-Soltan, a 26-year-old Iranian, 437 00:26:23,720 --> 00:26:27,140 was killed by a soldier hiding on the roof of a house. 438 00:26:27,140 --> 00:26:28,480 It was clearly murder. 439 00:26:33,865 --> 00:26:36,760 In response to international outrage, 440 00:26:36,760 --> 00:26:39,100 the government ordered a media blackout. 441 00:26:39,100 --> 00:26:42,550 Only those images recorded by the citizens themselves 442 00:26:42,550 --> 00:26:44,700 managed to get out of the country. 443 00:26:44,700 --> 00:26:46,830 The BBC signal satellite over 444 00:26:46,830 --> 00:26:48,710 the region was interfered with. 445 00:26:55,060 --> 00:26:58,820 Despite their courage, the demonstrators were unsuccessful. 446 00:26:58,820 --> 00:27:02,539 The election result was supported by the religious leaders, 447 00:27:02,539 --> 00:27:04,680 Ahmadinejad remains in power. 448 00:27:04,680 --> 00:27:08,030 Following these riots, censorship was tightened up, 449 00:27:08,030 --> 00:27:10,950 especially on social networks. 450 00:27:10,950 --> 00:27:12,640 And this carries on today. 451 00:27:13,520 --> 00:27:17,300 We find this out when we buy a mobile phone microchip. 452 00:27:24,720 --> 00:27:27,080 In fact, access to social networks 453 00:27:27,080 --> 00:27:31,247 is officially prohibited and blocked. 454 00:27:38,550 --> 00:27:41,860 Following the advice of this state employee, we head for 455 00:27:41,860 --> 00:27:46,000 the stall opposite, which sells mobile phone accessories. 456 00:27:46,000 --> 00:27:48,700 This man also recommends special cards, 457 00:27:48,700 --> 00:27:52,750 which enable access to forbidden software, VPNs. 458 00:27:52,750 --> 00:27:55,870 Once installed on the phone, the program simulates 459 00:27:55,870 --> 00:27:59,530 an internet connection from a country other than Iran, 460 00:27:59,530 --> 00:28:02,420 and therefore bypasses the censorship. 461 00:28:29,133 --> 00:28:31,220 In less than five minutes, we have access 462 00:28:31,220 --> 00:28:33,490 to all social networks. 463 00:28:33,490 --> 00:28:36,770 Does the state purposely close its eyes to these sellers 464 00:28:36,770 --> 00:28:39,830 in order to relax the pressure on the population 465 00:28:39,830 --> 00:28:43,010 and thereby avoid a popular uprising? 466 00:28:43,010 --> 00:28:45,410 Or are we in a schizophrenic country 467 00:28:45,410 --> 00:28:48,760 where certain small infractions are overlooked? 468 00:28:48,760 --> 00:28:52,330 Officially, for example, foreign channels are forbidden. 469 00:28:52,330 --> 00:28:54,820 However, satellite dishes are blatantly 470 00:28:54,820 --> 00:28:57,018 on view from almost every window. 471 00:28:57,018 --> 00:28:57,851 (intense music) 472 00:28:57,851 --> 00:29:00,530 These allow Iranians to watch something other than 473 00:29:00,530 --> 00:29:03,860 the national channels that broadcast a steady stream 474 00:29:03,860 --> 00:29:08,470 of prayers, preaching, and speeches glorifying the mullahs. 475 00:29:08,470 --> 00:29:10,900 Because ever since Khomeini, the country 476 00:29:10,900 --> 00:29:13,680 has become a leader in religious propaganda. 477 00:29:19,610 --> 00:29:22,340 On Tehran's walls, the regime displays 478 00:29:22,340 --> 00:29:24,550 the greatness of the Ayatollahs. 479 00:29:24,550 --> 00:29:28,630 Looming from above are billboards showing a happy society. 480 00:29:28,630 --> 00:29:30,460 Fulfilled and perfect. 481 00:29:30,460 --> 00:29:35,210 A nation united by solidarity, edified by religion. 482 00:29:35,210 --> 00:29:38,330 However, also on show is their sworn enmity 483 00:29:38,330 --> 00:29:39,960 with the United States. 484 00:29:39,960 --> 00:29:42,640 For the past 40 years, the two countries 485 00:29:42,640 --> 00:29:45,190 have cut all diplomatic relations. 486 00:29:49,814 --> 00:29:51,090 (ominous music) 487 00:29:51,090 --> 00:29:53,470 The former American embassy has been turned 488 00:29:53,470 --> 00:29:56,040 into the anti-arrogance museum. 489 00:29:56,040 --> 00:29:58,610 In the garden, dozens of posters denounce 490 00:29:58,610 --> 00:30:00,910 the country they call Great Satan. 491 00:30:07,210 --> 00:30:10,500 Obama is disguised and shown as a terrorist. 492 00:30:14,370 --> 00:30:16,870 Relations between the US and Iran 493 00:30:16,870 --> 00:30:20,220 were turned upside down in 1979. 494 00:30:20,220 --> 00:30:24,130 The former king, the Shah, then in exile in Mexico, 495 00:30:24,130 --> 00:30:27,192 was hospitalized in New York for cancer treatment. 496 00:30:27,192 --> 00:30:28,025 (chanting) 497 00:30:28,025 --> 00:30:29,880 The Iranian authorities demanded 498 00:30:29,880 --> 00:30:33,160 his extradition, without success. 499 00:30:33,160 --> 00:30:37,180 Instructed by the Ayatollah Khomeini, students then attacked 500 00:30:37,180 --> 00:30:39,540 the United States' embassy in Tehran, 501 00:30:39,540 --> 00:30:42,080 taking some 50 people hostage. 502 00:30:42,080 --> 00:30:46,247 They were not freed until 444 days later. 503 00:30:49,660 --> 00:30:53,340 Ever since, inside the embassy, nothing has been changed. 504 00:30:53,340 --> 00:30:57,330 The documents and machines are safe-guarded as trophies. 505 00:30:57,330 --> 00:30:59,920 This is the case with the paper shredder used 506 00:30:59,920 --> 00:31:02,140 to destroy secret papers while 507 00:31:02,140 --> 00:31:05,350 the American soldiers fought off the students. 508 00:31:05,350 --> 00:31:09,140 We discover the first computers and satellite receivers, 509 00:31:09,140 --> 00:31:13,000 interception systems, passport photos presented by 510 00:31:13,000 --> 00:31:15,330 the Iranian authorities as being used 511 00:31:15,330 --> 00:31:17,650 to make fake documents. 512 00:31:17,650 --> 00:31:19,930 The highlight is this glassed room, 513 00:31:19,930 --> 00:31:23,680 sound proofed and with its own ventilation system. 514 00:31:23,680 --> 00:31:26,250 For the past 40 years, the dictatorship 515 00:31:26,250 --> 00:31:30,090 has been spreading anti-Americanism through propaganda, 516 00:31:30,090 --> 00:31:33,430 and its most recent weapon of mass communication: 517 00:31:33,430 --> 00:31:38,033 this advert shown on national television in 2016. 518 00:31:38,033 --> 00:31:41,200 (intense choir music) 519 00:31:46,364 --> 00:31:47,404 (woman screaming) 520 00:31:47,404 --> 00:31:50,820 For 350,000 euros, the regime made use 521 00:31:50,820 --> 00:31:53,400 of the most beautiful special effects. 522 00:31:53,400 --> 00:31:55,530 The scenario is very simple. 523 00:31:55,530 --> 00:31:59,010 The powerful American army attack the mullahs' country. 524 00:32:02,340 --> 00:32:05,990 To fight back, the villagers use a simple Iranian flag. 525 00:32:27,984 --> 00:32:30,317 (explosion) 526 00:32:32,190 --> 00:32:34,420 Their love for their country is so strong 527 00:32:34,420 --> 00:32:37,310 that they provoke a real tsunami. 528 00:32:37,310 --> 00:32:40,946 It's the love of their country that brings them victory. 529 00:32:40,946 --> 00:32:43,779 (water splashing) 530 00:32:48,718 --> 00:32:51,193 (explosion) 531 00:32:51,193 --> 00:32:53,360 (thunder) 532 00:33:05,550 --> 00:33:08,980 These displays of hatred for the United States can be found 533 00:33:08,980 --> 00:33:13,152 all around town, even inside the mosques on giant screens. 534 00:33:13,152 --> 00:33:14,410 (distant singing) 535 00:33:14,410 --> 00:33:16,650 Meanwhile, just a few meters away, 536 00:33:16,650 --> 00:33:20,902 this country's schizophrenia manifests to its full extent. 537 00:33:20,902 --> 00:33:22,140 (energetic music) 538 00:33:22,140 --> 00:33:24,770 Many Iranians live a Western lifestyle, 539 00:33:24,770 --> 00:33:26,890 brands such as Apple and Windows 540 00:33:26,890 --> 00:33:28,720 are displayed in shop windows. 541 00:33:38,360 --> 00:33:42,720 Fast food restaurants copy KFC and McDonald's. 542 00:33:42,720 --> 00:33:45,100 In Tehran, there are the same temples 543 00:33:45,100 --> 00:33:48,290 of consumerism as in the United States. 544 00:33:48,290 --> 00:33:51,383 Once again, with American brands everywhere. 545 00:33:51,383 --> 00:33:54,050 (distant music) 546 00:33:59,640 --> 00:34:02,720 We are in a fashion trade fair for women only. 547 00:34:02,720 --> 00:34:05,260 Here, fashion designers use products from 548 00:34:05,260 --> 00:34:09,230 the United States in an unusual way for their creations. 549 00:34:19,010 --> 00:34:21,860 And in fact, these clothes have been subjected 550 00:34:21,860 --> 00:34:23,480 to the mullahs' criteria. 551 00:35:00,655 --> 00:35:01,690 (energetic music) 552 00:35:01,690 --> 00:35:05,030 The dress code imposed by the regime forces women 553 00:35:05,030 --> 00:35:07,550 to cover every part of their body. 554 00:35:07,550 --> 00:35:11,230 The coat covers their shape, but is their only outward sign 555 00:35:11,230 --> 00:35:12,990 of elegance, with the scarf. 556 00:35:28,889 --> 00:35:32,222 Leila and Nahid are 22 and 27 years old. 557 00:35:33,070 --> 00:35:35,670 Like the majority of young women their age, 558 00:35:35,670 --> 00:35:39,520 it's the conundrum of how to feel attractive in public. 559 00:35:39,520 --> 00:35:42,930 We are headed for a shopping center in the north of Tehran. 560 00:35:42,930 --> 00:35:46,020 In this shop, Leila and Nahid have the choice 561 00:35:46,020 --> 00:35:48,729 between this classic coat, which is a bit dull. 562 00:35:48,729 --> 00:35:51,396 (distant music) 563 00:35:54,280 --> 00:35:56,930 Or a more lively version, such as this one 564 00:35:56,930 --> 00:35:58,740 with an American influence. 565 00:35:58,740 --> 00:36:00,350 Minnie is a Disney character. 566 00:36:10,400 --> 00:36:11,800 In the end, it's a coat with 567 00:36:11,800 --> 00:36:15,170 a church window motif that catches Leila's eye. 568 00:36:37,630 --> 00:36:40,860 The sellers intervene in order to start a conversation, 569 00:36:40,860 --> 00:36:43,730 to try their luck, and it works. 570 00:36:43,730 --> 00:36:47,450 Except in Iran, people don't give out their phone numbers. 571 00:37:01,339 --> 00:37:03,610 Since young unmarried people aren't allowed to go 572 00:37:03,610 --> 00:37:06,530 for a walk together or to meet in a cafe, 573 00:37:06,530 --> 00:37:09,241 they usually use social networks to date. 574 00:37:09,241 --> 00:37:10,190 (energetic music) 575 00:37:10,190 --> 00:37:12,700 Two levels up, we meet Roxanne. 576 00:37:12,700 --> 00:37:15,730 This young woman, a student from the upper classes, 577 00:37:15,730 --> 00:37:19,530 is addicted to shopping, especially big Western brands 578 00:37:19,530 --> 00:37:22,720 such as this famous American lingerie retailer. 579 00:37:30,802 --> 00:37:31,635 (energetic music) 580 00:37:31,635 --> 00:37:34,970 Once again, we are struck by the Iranian paradox. 581 00:37:34,970 --> 00:37:38,890 On the one hand, a strict, religious society, on the other, 582 00:37:38,890 --> 00:37:41,030 the selling of products that are forbidden 583 00:37:41,030 --> 00:37:44,620 to be worn in the street, like these dresses. 584 00:37:44,620 --> 00:37:47,330 Roxanne is 30 years old, and this evening 585 00:37:47,330 --> 00:37:51,080 is her pre-engagement party at her parents' home, 586 00:37:51,080 --> 00:37:54,080 so she's looking for the perfect dress. 587 00:37:54,080 --> 00:37:56,860 In the end, it's not in the shopping center, but in 588 00:37:56,860 --> 00:38:00,760 the luxury boutiques of Zafaraniyeh, the glamorous part 589 00:38:00,760 --> 00:38:04,250 of Tehran, that she finds what she's looking for. 590 00:38:04,250 --> 00:38:07,570 But here, there are no overcoats, only lighter garments. 591 00:38:33,440 --> 00:38:36,430 Even here, we're never far from religious police 592 00:38:36,430 --> 00:38:37,690 and their rules. 593 00:38:37,690 --> 00:38:39,360 But no one follows them. 594 00:38:43,336 --> 00:38:46,253 (energetic music) 595 00:39:32,570 --> 00:39:35,460 Several hours later, we meet Roxanne again, 596 00:39:35,460 --> 00:39:37,310 this time at her house. 597 00:39:37,310 --> 00:39:40,220 In this upper-class family, they practically live 598 00:39:40,220 --> 00:39:42,760 as Westerners, far from the restrictions 599 00:39:42,760 --> 00:39:44,710 imposed by the mullahs. 600 00:39:44,710 --> 00:39:48,920 Here, the women wear short skirts, the men ties. 601 00:39:48,920 --> 00:39:51,680 As in many Iranian families, in private, 602 00:39:51,680 --> 00:39:54,430 they don't observe the religious rules. 603 00:39:54,430 --> 00:39:57,210 Roxanne is expecting her future in-laws. 604 00:40:05,420 --> 00:40:06,980 Her mother is feeling emotional 605 00:40:06,980 --> 00:40:08,820 about her daughter getting married. 606 00:40:23,989 --> 00:40:27,489 Her fiancee and his family arrive at last. 607 00:40:28,409 --> 00:40:30,659 (applause) 608 00:40:38,118 --> 00:40:39,920 To immortalize the moment, Nouri, 609 00:40:39,920 --> 00:40:42,500 the brother-in-law, acts as photographer. 610 00:40:43,520 --> 00:40:46,380 Immediately afterwards, the talks begin. 611 00:40:46,380 --> 00:40:49,490 Mana, the fiancee's aunt, stays out of it. 612 00:41:07,170 --> 00:41:09,900 That's about 66,000 euros. 613 00:41:13,710 --> 00:41:17,250 But it's not the woman who pays the dowry, it's the man. 614 00:41:17,250 --> 00:41:19,290 In case of divorce, he must give 615 00:41:19,290 --> 00:41:21,630 this sum of money to his wife. 616 00:41:21,630 --> 00:41:24,706 In Iran, this practice is called Mehrieh. 617 00:41:24,706 --> 00:41:25,560 (applause) 618 00:41:25,560 --> 00:41:27,930 Additionally, the husband's family commit 619 00:41:27,930 --> 00:41:29,390 to providing a house. 620 00:41:36,062 --> 00:41:38,312 (laughter) 621 00:41:40,077 --> 00:41:42,327 (applause) 622 00:41:45,700 --> 00:41:48,860 To celebrate the engagement, the family offer whisky 623 00:41:48,860 --> 00:41:50,570 and wine to the guests. 624 00:41:50,570 --> 00:41:52,070 Contraband, of course. 625 00:41:52,922 --> 00:41:55,030 (distant music) 626 00:41:55,030 --> 00:41:58,550 Every year, 60 to 80 million liters of alcohol 627 00:41:58,550 --> 00:42:01,560 are smuggled into the country for a total cost 628 00:42:01,560 --> 00:42:04,850 of about 580 million euros. 629 00:42:12,069 --> 00:42:15,050 (traditional music) 630 00:42:15,050 --> 00:42:16,970 The following day, in Tehran, 631 00:42:16,970 --> 00:42:19,240 we discover another hidden world. 632 00:42:22,230 --> 00:42:24,620 A few feet away from the grand bazaar, 633 00:42:24,620 --> 00:42:26,610 where pistachio sellers jostle 634 00:42:26,610 --> 00:42:30,340 with religious banner sellers, we've got permission to go 635 00:42:30,340 --> 00:42:32,980 in a place that is never normally on show. 636 00:42:38,669 --> 00:42:42,419 Here, there is no shop window, no shop front. 637 00:42:45,349 --> 00:42:46,182 (knocking) 638 00:42:46,182 --> 00:42:47,330 You would think we were arriving 639 00:42:47,330 --> 00:42:50,190 at a private club, with its code. 640 00:42:50,190 --> 00:42:51,960 But it isn't at all. 641 00:42:51,960 --> 00:42:55,060 Welcome to an Iranian beauty salon. 642 00:42:55,060 --> 00:42:57,530 Clients can choose from dozens of styles 643 00:42:57,530 --> 00:42:59,600 and spend countless sums of money 644 00:42:59,600 --> 00:43:01,760 to make themselves beautiful. 645 00:43:01,760 --> 00:43:05,490 It's one of the few places where women appear unveiled. 646 00:43:05,490 --> 00:43:08,350 This place is strictly off limits for men. 647 00:43:08,350 --> 00:43:11,240 Sophie, our journalist, goes in alone. 648 00:43:40,268 --> 00:43:43,518 Other women also come here for makeup. 649 00:43:48,250 --> 00:43:52,270 Iran is the world's seventh biggest consumer of cosmetics, 650 00:43:52,270 --> 00:43:55,180 principally thanks to mascara and lipstick sales. 651 00:44:35,509 --> 00:44:36,790 (calm music) 652 00:44:36,790 --> 00:44:39,640 But that will be in a closed environment again, 653 00:44:39,640 --> 00:44:41,120 in an apartment. 654 00:44:41,120 --> 00:44:44,150 Since in Tehran, in order to feel really free, 655 00:44:44,150 --> 00:44:46,280 you have to get out of the city center. 656 00:44:48,900 --> 00:44:52,580 Every weekend, just an hour's drive away, hundreds of people 657 00:44:52,580 --> 00:44:55,710 go to this forest to let off steam. 658 00:44:55,710 --> 00:44:58,420 This is where Leila, the young woman who bought 659 00:44:58,420 --> 00:45:01,750 the brightly patterned coat, has agreed to meet us. 660 00:45:01,750 --> 00:45:05,120 With her university friends, she stays out of view, 661 00:45:05,120 --> 00:45:07,270 in search of a place to be free. 662 00:45:07,270 --> 00:45:09,420 Because even in the thick of the woods, 663 00:45:09,420 --> 00:45:11,450 the regime is never far away. 664 00:45:11,450 --> 00:45:13,783 (pop music) 665 00:45:35,450 --> 00:45:37,710 Two men dressed as civilians are members 666 00:45:37,710 --> 00:45:39,420 of the religious police. 667 00:45:39,420 --> 00:45:42,660 They have authority over everyone, even the army. 668 00:45:52,647 --> 00:45:55,170 Leila and her friends normally meet here. 669 00:45:55,170 --> 00:45:56,970 None of them are married, they don't have 670 00:45:56,970 --> 00:45:59,450 the right to touch, talk or flirt. 671 00:45:59,450 --> 00:46:02,280 The girls usually remain vigilant and don't dare 672 00:46:02,280 --> 00:46:05,580 take their veils off, even when they are out of sight. 673 00:47:32,510 --> 00:47:34,970 In this forest, the young people laugh about 674 00:47:34,970 --> 00:47:38,510 all the laws they've broken there since this afternoon. 675 00:47:44,971 --> 00:47:47,304 (pop music) 676 00:47:50,240 --> 00:47:52,200 Dancing is also not allowed. 677 00:47:56,240 --> 00:47:59,170 Neither is hugging or smoking if you are a woman. 678 00:48:01,720 --> 00:48:05,390 Azad risks receiving lashes for smoking a joint. 679 00:48:23,760 --> 00:48:26,020 While these young people are breaking the law, 680 00:48:26,020 --> 00:48:28,070 that's not the case for all of them. 681 00:48:28,070 --> 00:48:30,780 Not far from here, another group of youngsters 682 00:48:30,780 --> 00:48:33,870 go about their business while staying within the law. 683 00:48:40,710 --> 00:48:43,040 While the middle classes generally choose 684 00:48:43,040 --> 00:48:46,380 this forest near Tehran, wealthier young Iranians 685 00:48:46,380 --> 00:48:50,230 have their own refuge a hundred kilometers further north. 686 00:48:50,230 --> 00:48:51,775 Dizin. 687 00:48:51,775 --> 00:48:53,500 (energetic music) 688 00:48:53,500 --> 00:48:57,100 Two hours' drive from Tehran, we discover another world 689 00:48:57,100 --> 00:48:59,510 where most taboos are overlooked. 690 00:48:59,510 --> 00:49:02,950 Welcome to one of the country's 13 ski stations. 691 00:49:16,250 --> 00:49:18,860 At first glance, everything is in order. 692 00:49:18,860 --> 00:49:21,700 The ski lift employees are all veiled. 693 00:49:21,700 --> 00:49:24,620 Up on the ski slopes, members of the moral police 694 00:49:24,620 --> 00:49:27,640 call to order anyone who lets her hair show. 695 00:49:35,470 --> 00:49:37,590 But further into the ski resort, 696 00:49:37,590 --> 00:49:40,772 the religious police seem to turn a blind eye. 697 00:49:40,772 --> 00:49:43,605 (energetic music) 698 00:49:45,280 --> 00:49:48,733 Welcome to the paradise of the young Iranian jet set. 699 00:49:48,733 --> 00:49:49,630 (cheering) 700 00:49:49,630 --> 00:49:51,590 Dizin is basically a little corner of 701 00:49:51,590 --> 00:49:54,570 the West reserved only for the elite. 702 00:49:54,570 --> 00:49:58,530 The music that is normally forbidden is played full blast. 703 00:49:58,530 --> 00:50:01,100 Skiers let their veils fall off. 704 00:50:01,100 --> 00:50:05,000 In the plastic bottles and flasks, there is alcohol. 705 00:50:05,000 --> 00:50:08,440 These wealthy young women seem to live in another world, 706 00:50:08,440 --> 00:50:11,020 far from the reality of their own country. 707 00:50:12,344 --> 00:50:14,761 - For women, this is freedom. 708 00:50:19,760 --> 00:50:21,850 I can not cover my face, you can see. 709 00:50:21,850 --> 00:50:24,849 - [Jacques] You don't have to cover your hair? 710 00:50:24,849 --> 00:50:29,260 - There is no need, just here you should cover, 711 00:50:29,260 --> 00:50:30,900 not all, you can see. 712 00:50:33,160 --> 00:50:35,760 - [Narrator] It is in this bubble above Tehran that, 713 00:50:35,760 --> 00:50:37,840 for the first time on our trip, 714 00:50:37,840 --> 00:50:41,813 Iranians dare to criticize the regime openly. 715 00:50:41,813 --> 00:50:44,646 - We have a problem on government. 716 00:50:46,890 --> 00:50:49,740 All of the people, many of the people in Iran, 717 00:50:49,740 --> 00:50:54,540 Iranian people don't like the government and the rules 718 00:50:54,540 --> 00:50:58,670 of government, but we can't do anything. 719 00:50:58,670 --> 00:50:59,503 (ominous music) 720 00:50:59,503 --> 00:51:01,670 - [Narrator] This repressive regime has long been shunned 721 00:51:01,670 --> 00:51:03,740 by the international community. 722 00:51:03,740 --> 00:51:05,730 This country, which defied the West 723 00:51:05,730 --> 00:51:09,550 by attempting to gain nuclear weapons, finally conceded. 724 00:51:09,550 --> 00:51:13,780 A year ago, Iran pledged to reduce its uranium stockpile. 725 00:51:13,780 --> 00:51:17,730 In exchange, economic sanctions were partially suspended, 726 00:51:17,730 --> 00:51:20,480 France began trading with Iran again. 727 00:51:20,480 --> 00:51:25,470 In 2016, president Hassan Rohani toured European capitals 728 00:51:25,470 --> 00:51:29,020 to sign a contract presenting the new face of Iran. 729 00:51:29,020 --> 00:51:32,030 The question of human rights has barely been raised. 730 00:51:32,030 --> 00:51:35,260 In Iran, where a thousand executions are carried out 731 00:51:35,260 --> 00:51:39,427 every year, there are 160 minors currently on death row. 57688

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