All language subtitles for BBC.The.Dark.Ages.An.Age.of.Light.3of4.The.Wonder.of.Islam.720p.HDTV.x264.AAC.MVGroup.org

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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:06,078 --> 00:00:10,958 This is a series about the Dark Ages, when civilisation was 2 00:00:10,958 --> 00:00:15,118 said to have stopped and ignorance flooded the world. 3 00:00:17,158 --> 00:00:20,638 I've been trying to convince you that it didn't happen, 4 00:00:20,638 --> 00:00:24,918 that the Dark Ages were a fine era for art. 5 00:00:24,918 --> 00:00:28,478 But in this film, I am going further. 6 00:00:29,798 --> 00:00:33,438 The art we'll be looking at in this film is some of the most 7 00:00:33,438 --> 00:00:35,278 sophisticated ever made. 8 00:00:36,438 --> 00:00:40,558 If any art challenges the myth of the Dark Ages, 9 00:00:40,558 --> 00:00:43,478 it's the art of Islam. 10 00:00:43,478 --> 00:00:46,638 EXPLOSION 11 00:00:46,638 --> 00:00:49,758 HORSE WHINNIES 12 00:01:29,758 --> 00:01:32,038 This is Cordoba in Spain. 13 00:01:32,038 --> 00:01:35,558 That's the great Mosque of Cordoba up there. 14 00:01:35,558 --> 00:01:41,678 And this handy little Dark Age gadget is an astrolabe. 15 00:01:41,678 --> 00:01:45,918 Some people call this the first computer and what this thing 16 00:01:45,918 --> 00:01:51,958 does is calculate exactly where you are, by using the stars. 17 00:01:54,398 --> 00:01:59,998 Islamic stargazers perfected the astrolabe in the Dark Ages to 18 00:01:59,998 --> 00:02:06,398 work out the direction of Mecca, so they always knew which way to pray. 19 00:02:06,398 --> 00:02:10,478 It filled their art with cosmic patterns. 20 00:02:11,998 --> 00:02:16,438 Later on, I will be showing you how to use one of these, I hope, 21 00:02:16,438 --> 00:02:20,438 but first we need to travel back in time to 22 00:02:20,438 --> 00:02:26,398 the beginnings of Islam, to the first fascinating creations 23 00:02:26,398 --> 00:02:28,798 of Islamic art and architecture. 24 00:02:28,798 --> 00:02:34,318 So right now, we're here in Cordoba, Spain. 25 00:02:34,318 --> 00:02:36,918 To go back to the beginnings of Islamic art, 26 00:02:36,918 --> 00:02:41,798 we need to go right across the Mediterranean to here. 27 00:02:43,718 --> 00:02:45,438 Jerusalem - 28 00:02:45,438 --> 00:02:49,318 the heart of the religious Dark Ages. 29 00:02:49,318 --> 00:02:53,038 What huge dramas have been enacted here. 30 00:02:53,038 --> 00:02:57,118 What important art has been created? 31 00:02:57,118 --> 00:03:00,398 Most of it's gone unfortunately, but not all of it. 32 00:03:00,398 --> 00:03:02,558 Some of it has survived, 33 00:03:02,558 --> 00:03:07,758 notably that magnificent golden dome on the horizon - 34 00:03:07,758 --> 00:03:09,518 the Dome of the Rock. 35 00:03:12,438 --> 00:03:16,278 It's one of the most significant buildings ever put up, 36 00:03:16,278 --> 00:03:19,758 a piece of architecture that changed history. 37 00:03:19,758 --> 00:03:24,158 You couldn't really ask for a more dramatic location, could you? 38 00:03:24,158 --> 00:03:28,398 If you think it looks good from up here on the Mount of Olives, 39 00:03:28,398 --> 00:03:30,598 just wait until we get closer. 40 00:03:34,518 --> 00:03:38,918 Mohammed died in 632 AD 41 00:03:38,918 --> 00:03:42,518 and for the first 50 years or so after his death, 42 00:03:42,518 --> 00:03:46,078 Islam was preoccupied with conquest. 43 00:03:47,798 --> 00:03:52,918 The speed at which the Islamic empire expanded was remarkable. 44 00:03:52,918 --> 00:03:58,478 In just a few decades, it went from nothing to gigantic. 45 00:03:58,478 --> 00:04:01,958 It was the most dramatic, most aggressive 46 00:04:01,958 --> 00:04:06,478 and fastest feat of empire building the world has seen. 47 00:04:10,758 --> 00:04:16,358 This is the Islamic empire, just 100 years after Mohammed's death. 48 00:04:16,358 --> 00:04:21,438 Up here, the whole of Spain, all of North Africa, 49 00:04:21,438 --> 00:04:26,638 the entire Middle East, as far across as the borders of India. 50 00:04:33,758 --> 00:04:37,998 But all this astonishingly successful conquest, didn't leave 51 00:04:37,998 --> 00:04:40,318 much time for art. 52 00:04:40,318 --> 00:04:44,398 Almost nothing survives from the first years of Islam. 53 00:04:44,398 --> 00:04:48,118 Clearly, art was not a priority. 54 00:04:48,118 --> 00:04:52,238 And then, out of nothing, as if by magic, 55 00:04:52,238 --> 00:04:56,118 this appears - the Dome of the Rock. 56 00:04:59,198 --> 00:05:03,158 Nothing in Islamic art prepares us for this. 57 00:05:03,158 --> 00:05:05,078 It's just suddenly there. 58 00:05:05,078 --> 00:05:11,558 A definitive Islamic creation, seemingly conjured out of thin air. 59 00:05:12,958 --> 00:05:15,438 It's like a flying saucer or something, 60 00:05:15,438 --> 00:05:20,118 that's landed out of nowhere and something you sense immediately, 61 00:05:20,118 --> 00:05:25,198 even from this distance, is the powerful geometry of it, 62 00:05:25,198 --> 00:05:29,318 that air of mathematical clarity 63 00:05:29,318 --> 00:05:32,998 and that's something that continues in Islamic architecture. 64 00:05:40,198 --> 00:05:43,958 As you can see, it's an octagon, it's got eight sides. 65 00:05:43,958 --> 00:05:49,558 Octagons have a special symbolic presence, because they combine 66 00:05:49,558 --> 00:05:53,398 the geometry of a circle with the geometry of a square. 67 00:05:54,598 --> 00:06:00,998 I'll show you. If I draw a circle here... 68 00:06:07,118 --> 00:06:12,798 And then... two intersecting squares... 69 00:06:15,678 --> 00:06:17,118 ..here... 70 00:06:20,838 --> 00:06:22,158 ..and here... 71 00:06:26,038 --> 00:06:29,678 The shape they form, the shape in the middle... 72 00:06:39,678 --> 00:06:41,638 That's the octagon. 73 00:06:46,038 --> 00:06:50,718 The octagon is a surprisingly popular Dark Age shape with 74 00:06:50,718 --> 00:06:53,198 powerful, sacred meanings. 75 00:06:53,198 --> 00:06:57,078 If the Earth is a square and heaven is a perfect circle, 76 00:06:57,078 --> 00:07:02,798 the octagon is a symbolic bridge between the two. 77 00:07:02,798 --> 00:07:07,318 All the proportions of the Dome of the Rock are meaningful. 78 00:07:07,318 --> 00:07:12,518 So these walls here... the walls of the octagon... 79 00:07:12,518 --> 00:07:17,918 each of those is about 20 metres long. 80 00:07:19,758 --> 00:07:25,278 And the Dome in the middle, the height of that's 81 00:07:25,278 --> 00:07:32,438 again about 20 metres and the diameter of it's also 20 metres. 82 00:07:32,438 --> 00:07:36,678 All these proportions have been carefully calculated, 83 00:07:36,678 --> 00:07:38,118 have a purpose. 84 00:07:39,838 --> 00:07:45,718 It's as if the entire building has been shaped by a divine mathematics. 85 00:07:47,278 --> 00:07:52,438 And those divine mathematics have given it a sacred meaning. 86 00:07:54,158 --> 00:07:59,398 This location, Temple Mount, is the holiest spot in Jerusalem. 87 00:07:59,398 --> 00:08:03,638 This is where King Solomon built the first Jewish temple, 88 00:08:03,638 --> 00:08:07,638 the one destroyed by Nebuchadnezzar and then Herod, the infamous 89 00:08:07,638 --> 00:08:10,998 King Herod, built the second temple here as well. 90 00:08:13,918 --> 00:08:18,798 Herod's temple was made entirely from white marble and was 91 00:08:18,798 --> 00:08:24,278 so huge, it covered 67 acres of the sacred location. 92 00:08:24,278 --> 00:08:27,878 So grand, so pompous 93 00:08:27,878 --> 00:08:32,038 and to my eyes, so inelegant! 94 00:08:33,638 --> 00:08:37,598 So the Dome of the Rock sits on layer upon layer 95 00:08:37,598 --> 00:08:40,278 of crucial religious history 96 00:08:40,278 --> 00:08:44,878 and when the Muslims conquered Jerusalem in 638 AD 97 00:08:44,878 --> 00:08:47,958 and claimed this site for Islam, they took possession 98 00:08:47,958 --> 00:08:53,678 of what is probably the most loaded religious spot on Earth. 99 00:08:53,678 --> 00:08:55,838 And that's just the outside! 100 00:09:00,758 --> 00:09:05,598 For me, this mysterious interior is one of the most atmospheric 101 00:09:05,598 --> 00:09:09,078 achievements of the Dark Ages. 102 00:09:09,078 --> 00:09:14,238 There's something so haunting about the way the light works in here, 103 00:09:14,238 --> 00:09:16,758 the shimmer of the mosaics, 104 00:09:16,758 --> 00:09:19,918 the whispers of the calligraphy. 105 00:09:26,918 --> 00:09:30,078 Basically, it's a circular shrine. 106 00:09:30,078 --> 00:09:31,318 It's not a mosque, 107 00:09:31,318 --> 00:09:36,918 it's a place of pilgrimage that has been built around a sacred site. 108 00:09:36,918 --> 00:09:43,118 The site it's all been built around is the site of this holy rock here. 109 00:09:45,158 --> 00:09:49,278 The Jews believe this is the rock on which Abraham prepared to 110 00:09:49,278 --> 00:09:51,878 sacrifice his son, Isaac. 111 00:09:53,158 --> 00:09:56,838 And the Ark of the Covenant is thought to lie hidden 112 00:09:56,838 --> 00:09:58,958 somewhere underneath, as well. 113 00:10:04,118 --> 00:10:06,318 SPEAKING SOFTLY: Islam has a different tradition. 114 00:10:06,318 --> 00:10:09,518 Islam believes this is the holy rock 115 00:10:09,518 --> 00:10:14,198 from which the prophet Mohammed set off on his great night journey 116 00:10:14,198 --> 00:10:15,878 to heaven. 117 00:10:15,878 --> 00:10:19,438 The angel Gabriel came to visit Mohammed at Mecca 118 00:10:19,438 --> 00:10:21,598 and brought him here to Jerusalem. 119 00:10:21,598 --> 00:10:26,718 From this rock, the prophet ascended to heaven and there, 120 00:10:26,718 --> 00:10:32,598 in paradise, he met God and God instructed him 121 00:10:32,598 --> 00:10:35,318 on the Muslim duty of prayer. 122 00:10:39,998 --> 00:10:42,958 So this holy rock, like the architecture around it, 123 00:10:42,958 --> 00:10:47,638 is a point of contact between man and God 124 00:10:47,638 --> 00:10:51,318 and that's the religious message of the whole building. 125 00:10:52,798 --> 00:10:55,318 If you saw the first film in this series, 126 00:10:55,318 --> 00:10:59,838 you'll recognise this shape, because we've seen it before. 127 00:10:59,838 --> 00:11:04,998 This type of encircling architecture, built over a precious 128 00:11:04,998 --> 00:11:10,518 site, something we found in the round churches at Byzantium. 129 00:11:10,518 --> 00:11:13,638 Remember, San Vitale in Ravenna 130 00:11:13,638 --> 00:11:16,718 and Santa Costanza in Rome. 131 00:11:20,078 --> 00:11:24,278 The Muslim Caliph Abd al-Malik who built the Dome of the Rock was 132 00:11:24,278 --> 00:11:28,998 deliberately taking on the architecture of the Christians. 133 00:11:28,998 --> 00:11:34,598 This round shape, the proportions, none of it was an accident. 134 00:11:37,398 --> 00:11:43,238 Abd al-Malik also added an explicit inscription, which runs all the 135 00:11:43,238 --> 00:11:49,678 way round, which gives the date on which the dome was finished - 136 00:11:49,678 --> 00:11:55,398 691 AD. It also includes a stern message to the Christians. 137 00:11:56,918 --> 00:12:02,398 "O, you people of the Book", it says, meaning the Bible. 138 00:12:02,398 --> 00:12:06,678 "Jesus is only a messenger of God. 139 00:12:06,678 --> 00:12:09,798 "God is only one God." 140 00:12:12,438 --> 00:12:17,558 It's a deliberate challenge to the Christians. Jesus is just a prophet. 141 00:12:17,558 --> 00:12:21,958 There's only one God and Gods don't have sons. 142 00:12:21,958 --> 00:12:26,718 This entire building is taking on Christianity. 143 00:12:28,838 --> 00:12:30,318 Look at that! 144 00:12:30,318 --> 00:12:36,118 Floor to ceiling is covered in the most exquisite mosaics. 145 00:12:36,118 --> 00:12:40,838 Gold and green... there's a palm tree 146 00:12:40,838 --> 00:12:44,118 and these beautiful jewelled crowns. 147 00:12:44,118 --> 00:12:49,878 And all the pieces of the mosaic are set at different angles, 148 00:12:49,878 --> 00:12:53,438 so they reflect the light differently at different times 149 00:12:53,438 --> 00:12:59,838 of day and all this, all these glorious mosaics, 150 00:12:59,838 --> 00:13:04,998 were intended to the evoke a vision of paradise. 151 00:13:08,238 --> 00:13:12,478 "When you look there in paradise", says the Koran, 152 00:13:12,478 --> 00:13:16,158 "you will see delights that cannot be imagined. 153 00:13:16,158 --> 00:13:18,958 "Fruits of every kind 154 00:13:18,958 --> 00:13:21,238 "and all that you ask for." 155 00:13:23,358 --> 00:13:27,278 At a stroke, Islam had invented for itself 156 00:13:27,278 --> 00:13:30,518 an unmistakable new architecture. 157 00:13:30,518 --> 00:13:34,878 And at the centre of this new architecture, 158 00:13:34,878 --> 00:13:36,998 was a vision of paradise. 159 00:13:45,198 --> 00:13:49,958 The Islamic paradise is a green and verdant alternative to 160 00:13:49,958 --> 00:13:54,278 the harsh desert landscape in which Islam was born. 161 00:13:54,278 --> 00:13:59,438 These are lands where water is precious and so is hope. 162 00:14:03,878 --> 00:14:07,718 Just a few years after the Dome of the Rock was finished, 163 00:14:07,718 --> 00:14:13,278 the Umayyad Caliphs in Damascus gave the world another wonderful Islamic 164 00:14:13,278 --> 00:14:17,078 structure - the Damascus Mosque. 165 00:14:17,078 --> 00:14:20,318 I think it's one of the most exciting buildings 166 00:14:20,318 --> 00:14:21,638 I've ever been in. 167 00:14:23,558 --> 00:14:25,638 And look what's on the walls. 168 00:14:26,958 --> 00:14:30,478 Inside the fabulous Damascus Mosque, 169 00:14:30,478 --> 00:14:35,998 the Umayyad Caliphs set out actually to describe paradise. 170 00:14:37,318 --> 00:14:41,478 And to surround the Islamic pilgrim with delightful 171 00:14:41,478 --> 00:14:44,118 and irresistible visions of it. 172 00:14:45,558 --> 00:14:50,078 It's one of Islam's most dramatic artistic moments. 173 00:14:50,078 --> 00:14:53,358 These are the joys that await us in heaven. 174 00:14:53,358 --> 00:14:57,198 These are the beautiful cities in which we'll live 175 00:14:57,198 --> 00:15:00,038 and this is the water, 176 00:15:00,038 --> 00:15:03,678 the cool and endless water, that we'll drink. 177 00:15:12,158 --> 00:15:15,678 Those magnificent images of paradise in the Great Mosque 178 00:15:15,678 --> 00:15:20,958 at Damascus are like images of a wonderful oasis in the desert, 179 00:15:20,958 --> 00:15:24,638 water, palm trees, flowers - 180 00:15:24,638 --> 00:15:27,678 everything that's so hard to find out here 181 00:15:27,678 --> 00:15:34,958 and the Islamic paradise promises so many pleasures in the next life 182 00:15:34,958 --> 00:15:39,398 to the true believer - all you can drink, all you can eat 183 00:15:39,398 --> 00:15:42,158 and all you can dream of. 184 00:15:49,518 --> 00:15:51,518 This is Qusayr Amra. 185 00:15:51,518 --> 00:15:55,998 It's one of the desert palaces which the Umayyad rulers of Damascus 186 00:15:55,998 --> 00:15:58,918 built out here to get away from the city - 187 00:15:58,918 --> 00:16:01,838 its heat and its pressures. 188 00:16:04,278 --> 00:16:08,158 No-one's certain which of the Umayyad princes chose this 189 00:16:08,158 --> 00:16:10,918 distant desert location. 190 00:16:10,918 --> 00:16:15,878 Was it the Caliph Al-Walid the First or Al-Walid the Second? 191 00:16:15,878 --> 00:16:20,918 What is sure is why they chose this particular spot. 192 00:16:22,278 --> 00:16:25,038 Qusayr Amra is built in a wadi - 193 00:16:25,038 --> 00:16:29,678 the Wadi Al Battum - and wadis are desert valleys that fill up 194 00:16:29,678 --> 00:16:31,518 seasonally with water. 195 00:16:31,518 --> 00:16:35,918 So when it rains in the desert, the precious water floods through 196 00:16:35,918 --> 00:16:38,158 the wadi and fertilises it. 197 00:16:41,758 --> 00:16:45,838 Round the back of the building, over here, the various 198 00:16:45,838 --> 00:16:51,718 contraptions for channelling this water through the palace, 199 00:16:51,718 --> 00:16:59,438 because, believe it or not, what you have before you here is a bathhouse! 200 00:17:02,798 --> 00:17:07,118 Qusayr Amra is a bathing establishment in the desert - 201 00:17:07,118 --> 00:17:12,918 one of the earliest surviving secular buildings of Islam. 202 00:17:17,678 --> 00:17:21,878 The reason we've driven all this way across the desert to find it is 203 00:17:21,878 --> 00:17:26,638 because this fabulous bath house in the sands has something 204 00:17:26,638 --> 00:17:32,398 remarkable inside it, something you'd never expect to find here. 205 00:17:33,998 --> 00:17:38,718 Floor to ceiling Islamic frescoes. 206 00:17:41,238 --> 00:17:45,318 A troupe of acrobats gives a busy performance 207 00:17:45,318 --> 00:17:49,518 and there's a bear strumming a lute. 208 00:17:49,518 --> 00:17:52,158 There's so much going on in here. 209 00:17:53,998 --> 00:17:57,998 And a group of statuesque female dancers, 210 00:17:57,998 --> 00:18:01,438 show off their figures and their beauty. 211 00:18:05,718 --> 00:18:08,918 The dancing girls are particularly surprising. 212 00:18:08,918 --> 00:18:12,678 We're just not used to Islamic imagery as abandoned as this, 213 00:18:12,678 --> 00:18:15,518 but it's important to remember this is just 214 00:18:15,518 --> 00:18:19,678 as old and just as traditional as everything else we've seen. 215 00:18:19,678 --> 00:18:23,398 This, too, is a precious Islamic heritage. 216 00:18:25,398 --> 00:18:30,478 A negative way to understand Qusayr Amra's remarkable frescoes 217 00:18:30,478 --> 00:18:35,358 is to see them as signs of moral relaxation. 218 00:18:35,358 --> 00:18:40,678 Away from Damascus, deep in the desert, a wayward Umayyad prince 219 00:18:40,678 --> 00:18:46,438 is indulging an appetite for wine and music and women. 220 00:18:50,718 --> 00:18:53,038 But I don't think that is what it's about. 221 00:18:53,038 --> 00:18:56,478 If we go back to the many descriptions of paradise in the 222 00:18:56,478 --> 00:19:02,158 Koran, there are constant references to the pleasures available there. 223 00:19:02,158 --> 00:19:07,518 Rivers of wine served in crystal cups, beautiful flowers, 224 00:19:07,518 --> 00:19:11,158 beautiful jewels and beautiful girls. 225 00:19:13,718 --> 00:19:17,598 "For the righteous", says the Koran, "there shall be gardens 226 00:19:17,598 --> 00:19:22,878 "and vineyards and high-bosomed virgins for companions, 227 00:19:22,878 --> 00:19:28,478 "dark eyed and bashful, as fair as corals and rubies." 228 00:19:30,518 --> 00:19:35,718 Inside here is the caldarium - the hot room. 229 00:19:35,718 --> 00:19:40,358 In here the Umayyad prince would soak himself in hot water, 230 00:19:40,358 --> 00:19:44,438 heated up by all those gubbins we saw outside and as he lay 231 00:19:44,438 --> 00:19:50,558 here in his bath, the Umayyad prince would stare up at the Dome 232 00:19:50,558 --> 00:19:54,278 where he'd see something wondrous - 233 00:19:54,278 --> 00:19:58,278 an evocation of the stars at night. 234 00:20:01,238 --> 00:20:04,958 This is the earliest known Islamic star chart, 235 00:20:04,958 --> 00:20:07,438 painted onto the dome at Qusayr Amra. 236 00:20:08,758 --> 00:20:12,398 Around the edge are the 12 signs of the Zodiac. 237 00:20:13,558 --> 00:20:15,198 And in the middle, 238 00:20:15,198 --> 00:20:19,838 frescoed representations of the constellations. 239 00:20:19,838 --> 00:20:21,998 The Great Bear, 240 00:20:21,998 --> 00:20:23,558 the Little bear. 241 00:20:24,998 --> 00:20:28,958 What a thing to find in an eighth century bathhouse, 242 00:20:28,958 --> 00:20:32,958 a fabulous image of the heavens at night above your head. 243 00:20:32,958 --> 00:20:36,878 It's as if someone has taken the roof off the dome 244 00:20:36,878 --> 00:20:40,358 and looked out into the sky at night in the desert, 245 00:20:40,358 --> 00:20:42,118 full of twinkling stars. 246 00:20:43,118 --> 00:20:45,038 What a beautiful idea. 247 00:20:55,318 --> 00:20:57,878 It takes a bit of getting to Qusayr Amra 248 00:20:57,878 --> 00:21:01,958 but I wanted to make it clear right from the start that Islamic art, 249 00:21:01,958 --> 00:21:04,718 with its beginnings in the Dark Ages, 250 00:21:04,718 --> 00:21:07,838 has this sensuous dimension to it, 251 00:21:07,838 --> 00:21:13,318 a relationship to pleasure that you just don't find in other art. 252 00:21:16,958 --> 00:21:21,398 Scattered across this great Syrian Desert are the remains 253 00:21:21,398 --> 00:21:23,758 of fantastical Umayyad palaces, 254 00:21:23,758 --> 00:21:27,638 filled once with beautiful mosaics 255 00:21:27,638 --> 00:21:30,238 and marvellous colonnades. 256 00:21:30,238 --> 00:21:36,158 What tangible sensuousness you find here in this first Islamic art. 257 00:21:42,398 --> 00:21:46,398 These eighth century desert palaces must once have been filled 258 00:21:46,398 --> 00:21:48,758 with the accoutrements of pleasure - 259 00:21:48,758 --> 00:21:52,678 vases, hangings, plates and cups, 260 00:21:52,678 --> 00:21:55,038 almost all of which have disappeared. 261 00:21:57,878 --> 00:22:00,798 But in 1986, here in Jordan, 262 00:22:00,798 --> 00:22:03,038 they dug up this. 263 00:22:03,038 --> 00:22:07,198 It's an eighth century Islamic brazier 264 00:22:07,198 --> 00:22:08,918 and it gives us a tiny hint 265 00:22:08,918 --> 00:22:13,118 of what life was like in the Qusayr Amra bathhouse. 266 00:22:16,038 --> 00:22:19,918 The brazier was used to heat up the prince's room 267 00:22:19,918 --> 00:22:22,518 and for burning incense. 268 00:22:22,518 --> 00:22:27,078 Originally there were wheels on it and it could be wheeled around 269 00:22:27,078 --> 00:22:30,758 from room to room to fill them with sweet smells. 270 00:22:32,158 --> 00:22:34,398 It's made of iron and bronze 271 00:22:34,398 --> 00:22:38,038 and at the front here, as you can see, there are these arches 272 00:22:38,038 --> 00:22:40,438 a little bit like the ones in Qusayr Amra, 273 00:22:40,438 --> 00:22:46,518 and inside the arches are scenes of lovemaking and couples canoodling, 274 00:22:46,518 --> 00:22:50,798 and it's all so atmospheric and so beautifully done. 275 00:22:50,798 --> 00:22:53,318 Look at these eagles at the bottom, 276 00:22:53,318 --> 00:22:56,678 the way they've been shaped, their wings, their feathers. 277 00:22:58,318 --> 00:23:02,118 This is metalwork of the highest quality. 278 00:23:04,358 --> 00:23:09,158 At the four corners, four cuddly nudes prepared to release 279 00:23:09,158 --> 00:23:13,998 a small bird into the incense-filled air above them. 280 00:23:15,478 --> 00:23:20,038 And there's a floaty feeling to this marvellous metalwork. 281 00:23:21,598 --> 00:23:23,798 What a beautiful thing. 282 00:23:23,798 --> 00:23:25,798 And the figurative sculptures you see here, 283 00:23:25,798 --> 00:23:29,038 the female figures are, again, very surprising 284 00:23:29,038 --> 00:23:33,318 because this is an is aspect of Islamic art that was there at the start, 285 00:23:33,318 --> 00:23:37,158 that is very traditional, but which modern Islam often forgets. 286 00:23:39,478 --> 00:23:43,998 The beautiful brazier was an object of private delectation. 287 00:23:43,998 --> 00:23:46,118 It had no religious purpose. 288 00:23:47,398 --> 00:23:51,958 But it's important to remember that sensuality played a role 289 00:23:51,958 --> 00:23:53,958 in the art of these times. 290 00:23:53,958 --> 00:23:58,238 In the beginning, this was Islamic art too, 291 00:23:58,238 --> 00:24:00,438 and this, 292 00:24:00,438 --> 00:24:02,398 and this. 293 00:24:06,798 --> 00:24:11,798 When joy was called for, Islamic art inspired great joy. 294 00:24:12,878 --> 00:24:16,118 And when sobriety was more appropriate, 295 00:24:16,118 --> 00:24:18,278 it achieved great sobriety. 296 00:24:21,438 --> 00:24:25,038 This is the finest early mosque in Cairo, 297 00:24:25,038 --> 00:24:27,478 the mosque of ibn Tulun. 298 00:24:28,758 --> 00:24:31,598 I like everything about it, 299 00:24:31,598 --> 00:24:36,358 but most of all I admire its architectural seriousness. 300 00:24:37,838 --> 00:24:40,838 The way you know, as soon as you step in here, 301 00:24:40,838 --> 00:24:46,278 that this is a space devoted to important understandings. 302 00:24:49,598 --> 00:24:54,478 Ahmed ibn Tulun who founded this mosque in 879 AD 303 00:24:54,478 --> 00:24:58,598 was the son of a Turkish slave, who became governor of Egypt. 304 00:24:58,598 --> 00:25:02,918 Originally the mosque stood at the centre of a new city 305 00:25:02,918 --> 00:25:06,878 that ibn Tulun also founded, the city of Al-Qatta'i. 306 00:25:08,038 --> 00:25:11,198 But Al-Qatta'i was destroyed in the 10th century. 307 00:25:11,198 --> 00:25:14,078 This is all that's left of it. 308 00:25:17,358 --> 00:25:19,838 They say ibn Tulun chose this site 309 00:25:19,838 --> 00:25:22,958 because this is where Noah's Ark came to rest. 310 00:25:24,638 --> 00:25:27,038 There was certainly water here, 311 00:25:27,038 --> 00:25:31,678 that domed creation in the centre is the ablutions fountain, 312 00:25:31,678 --> 00:25:35,598 where all Muslims must wash themselves before prayers. 313 00:25:36,958 --> 00:25:39,238 All mosques, not just this one, 314 00:25:39,238 --> 00:25:41,838 are based on the very first mosque 315 00:25:41,838 --> 00:25:45,118 which was the prophet's own house in Medina. 316 00:25:45,118 --> 00:25:49,238 It was a typical mud brick dwelling, with a courtyard, 317 00:25:49,238 --> 00:25:53,438 and in that courtyard the prophet's followers would gather 318 00:25:53,438 --> 00:25:54,958 to hear him speak. 319 00:25:54,958 --> 00:25:59,558 So, all these great courtyards of Islam, 320 00:25:59,558 --> 00:26:04,798 all of them, are descended directly from the prophet's own courtyard. 321 00:26:07,678 --> 00:26:12,198 Their evocative sparseness is an echo of their origins. 322 00:26:13,478 --> 00:26:17,838 Their sun-baked simplicity has been there from the start. 323 00:26:19,758 --> 00:26:21,878 The walls that encircle you here 324 00:26:21,878 --> 00:26:25,478 are like the walls of the prophet's own courtyard. 325 00:26:25,478 --> 00:26:30,398 Their task is to keep the outside world at bay, 326 00:26:30,398 --> 00:26:32,358 and here at ibn Tulun, 327 00:26:32,358 --> 00:26:38,398 there's actually two sets of walls, a kind of double glazing 328 00:26:38,398 --> 00:26:42,118 that separates you from the hustle and bustle out there. 329 00:26:45,118 --> 00:26:49,998 I like these playful crenulations arranged along the top as well. 330 00:26:51,278 --> 00:26:53,198 They look like paper cut-outs, 331 00:26:53,198 --> 00:26:55,998 something my daughter might have made. 332 00:26:58,598 --> 00:27:01,398 To protect his followers from the sun 333 00:27:01,398 --> 00:27:06,158 the prophet built a simple shelter at the end of his courtyard 334 00:27:06,158 --> 00:27:10,358 with a roof made out of palm branches and leaves. 335 00:27:10,358 --> 00:27:16,278 That simple shelter was the inspiration for these great arcades 336 00:27:16,278 --> 00:27:20,518 which still protect the prophet's followers from the sun. 337 00:27:24,238 --> 00:27:27,398 The shelters in his courtyard were also used 338 00:27:27,398 --> 00:27:31,158 as somewhere to meet and discuss community affairs. 339 00:27:34,238 --> 00:27:37,078 And that marvellous communal atmosphere 340 00:27:37,078 --> 00:27:41,078 of a space with many purposes is something else that survives 341 00:27:41,078 --> 00:27:43,998 to this day in the Islamic mosque. 342 00:27:48,118 --> 00:27:52,078 The largest covered space was the prayer hall, which 343 00:27:52,078 --> 00:27:56,678 was basically the prophet's own house at the end of the courtyard. 344 00:27:56,678 --> 00:28:03,678 Every prayer hall today is a continuation of this marvellous Islamic sense. 345 00:28:03,678 --> 00:28:07,718 Underneath all this mighty religious architecture 346 00:28:07,718 --> 00:28:11,118 you can still feel the humble presence 347 00:28:11,118 --> 00:28:13,398 of the prophet's own dwelling. 348 00:28:15,438 --> 00:28:19,038 These prayer halls are so welcoming, 349 00:28:19,038 --> 00:28:23,038 they have a sense of the living room about them. 350 00:28:23,038 --> 00:28:24,398 A home from home. 351 00:28:28,118 --> 00:28:33,238 Most mosques are square or rectangular in plan 352 00:28:33,238 --> 00:28:37,358 and that's because they're all arranged in relation 353 00:28:37,358 --> 00:28:41,478 to this wall here, which is called the Qibla wall. 354 00:28:44,958 --> 00:28:48,558 The Qibla wall indicates the direction of Mecca. 355 00:28:49,678 --> 00:28:54,438 In Arabic the word Qibla means direction. 356 00:28:54,438 --> 00:28:58,958 And in Mohammed's house a simple spear stuck in the ground 357 00:28:58,958 --> 00:29:01,158 would mark the way to pray. 358 00:29:04,798 --> 00:29:09,038 The centre of the Qibla wall is marked by the mihrab 359 00:29:09,038 --> 00:29:12,238 which is always the most ornate part of the wall. 360 00:29:12,238 --> 00:29:14,078 Usually a niche. 361 00:29:15,558 --> 00:29:19,758 These niches were probably inspired by the culminating niches 362 00:29:19,758 --> 00:29:23,838 of Byzantine churches, Christian architecture. 363 00:29:25,438 --> 00:29:30,398 To the right of the mihrab is the minbar or pulpit 364 00:29:30,398 --> 00:29:33,798 and this is based, once again, on the prophet's own house. 365 00:29:36,158 --> 00:29:39,278 They say that when Mohammed had gathered 366 00:29:39,278 --> 00:29:43,118 so many followers he could no longer be heard by everyone 367 00:29:43,118 --> 00:29:47,318 he stepped up onto some blocks of wood 368 00:29:47,318 --> 00:29:49,918 and those are the origins of the minbar. 369 00:29:54,158 --> 00:29:58,238 How fascinating that all the great mosques of Islam 370 00:29:58,238 --> 00:30:04,238 inherited their wonderful clarity, their simplicity and their 371 00:30:04,238 --> 00:30:09,918 underlying sacred geometry from the humble house of the prophet. 372 00:30:10,918 --> 00:30:15,038 Look at all that wonderful stucco work around the arches, 373 00:30:15,038 --> 00:30:17,678 all that repetition and variety, 374 00:30:17,678 --> 00:30:20,598 this is art used in a different way, 375 00:30:20,598 --> 00:30:24,838 not to illustrate something but to create a visual rhythm. 376 00:30:28,198 --> 00:30:33,318 Christian churches are full of pictures that tell you stories 377 00:30:33,318 --> 00:30:37,438 but there are no pictures in these great Islamic interiors. 378 00:30:38,438 --> 00:30:42,318 The decoration here communicates in other ways. 379 00:30:43,918 --> 00:30:46,918 There's a sense of endlessness to it. 380 00:30:46,918 --> 00:30:49,478 It develops in all directions. 381 00:30:50,838 --> 00:30:54,678 And it makes you feel part of something that's bigger than you. 382 00:30:58,398 --> 00:31:00,078 So there are no pictures. 383 00:31:00,078 --> 00:31:04,838 Instead, all the way round runs this Koranic inscription, 384 00:31:04,838 --> 00:31:06,758 carved into wood. 385 00:31:07,678 --> 00:31:10,358 You know I said this mosque was built on the site 386 00:31:10,358 --> 00:31:13,558 when Noah's Ark was said to have come to rest, 387 00:31:13,558 --> 00:31:17,598 another story they tell here is that this Koranic inscription 388 00:31:17,598 --> 00:31:21,918 is carved on the actual wood from Noah's Ark. 389 00:31:24,758 --> 00:31:26,918 At the mosque of ibn Tulun 390 00:31:26,918 --> 00:31:32,118 the Koranic inscription runs for two kilometres around the building, 391 00:31:32,118 --> 00:31:38,078 that's 1/15th of the entire Koran written up on these walls. 392 00:31:39,918 --> 00:31:44,478 This is the Word of God in its most sacred and purest form. 393 00:31:46,958 --> 00:31:49,438 The power of the word is one of the great 394 00:31:49,438 --> 00:31:53,518 creative obsessions of the Dark Ages. 395 00:31:53,518 --> 00:31:57,238 And in the Metropolitan Museum in New York, 396 00:31:57,238 --> 00:32:00,638 the most beguiling of the first Korans, 397 00:32:00,638 --> 00:32:03,358 the so-called Blue Koran, 398 00:32:03,358 --> 00:32:08,158 turns the words of God into such glorious art. 399 00:32:23,198 --> 00:32:25,798 Don't know if you remember the building of the Aswan Dam 400 00:32:25,798 --> 00:32:30,038 in the 1960s? It was rather controversial, 401 00:32:30,038 --> 00:32:32,998 the president of Egypt, President Nasser, 402 00:32:32,998 --> 00:32:37,198 joined up with the Russians to build a dam across the Nile, 403 00:32:37,198 --> 00:32:41,318 and various archaeological sites were lost forever, 404 00:32:41,318 --> 00:32:45,238 or had to be moved to new locations, stone-by-stone. 405 00:32:45,238 --> 00:32:50,358 All sorts of ecological disasters were predicted for the dam. 406 00:32:50,358 --> 00:32:53,198 Most of which haven't happened. 407 00:32:57,478 --> 00:32:59,238 The conquest of water 408 00:32:59,238 --> 00:33:02,998 was another of Islam's great achievements in the Dark Ages. 409 00:33:04,238 --> 00:33:09,358 In Cairo, the Nile would overflow its banks every summer 410 00:33:09,358 --> 00:33:12,598 and the agriculture of the entire Nile Delta 411 00:33:12,598 --> 00:33:16,198 depended on the success of this fertile flooding. 412 00:33:18,558 --> 00:33:21,918 Thick black silt, rich with nutrients, 413 00:33:21,918 --> 00:33:24,598 would be deposited across the flood plain, 414 00:33:24,598 --> 00:33:27,358 ensuring a splendid harvest. 415 00:33:27,358 --> 00:33:29,398 That was in the good years. 416 00:33:29,398 --> 00:33:33,278 In the bad years, the levels were either too low, 417 00:33:33,278 --> 00:33:35,158 which meant disaster, 418 00:33:35,158 --> 00:33:38,998 or too high, which also meant disaster. 419 00:33:38,998 --> 00:33:43,758 The Aswan Dam was built to control that process, 420 00:33:43,758 --> 00:33:47,438 so, you might wonder, what did they do before? 421 00:33:51,358 --> 00:33:55,918 In Islamic times they used this - the celebrated Nilometer 422 00:33:55,918 --> 00:33:58,598 of Rhoda Island on the Nile. 423 00:34:00,238 --> 00:34:02,998 Opened for business in 861 AD, 424 00:34:02,998 --> 00:34:07,118 it's one of the oldest Islamic monuments in Egypt. 425 00:34:08,398 --> 00:34:12,838 And what dramatic evidence it offers of the aquatic brilliance 426 00:34:12,838 --> 00:34:15,078 of Islam's engineers. 427 00:34:16,558 --> 00:34:21,958 What this thing does is measure the height of the Nile flood. 428 00:34:21,958 --> 00:34:24,118 It's basically a big well, 429 00:34:24,118 --> 00:34:27,718 sunk some ten metres under the level of the river. 430 00:34:27,718 --> 00:34:31,798 In the middle is an octagonal marble column, 431 00:34:31,798 --> 00:34:36,038 a kind of giant ruler which, as you can see, 432 00:34:36,038 --> 00:34:39,358 is marked off at different heights. 433 00:34:42,238 --> 00:34:46,678 The measurements are in cubits and one cubit is about half a metre, 434 00:34:46,678 --> 00:34:52,638 so around 16 cubits is the perfect flood. 435 00:34:52,638 --> 00:34:55,518 Fertile, controllable. 436 00:34:55,518 --> 00:35:01,358 Below 16 cubits there's not enough water, so famine conditions ahead, 437 00:35:01,358 --> 00:35:05,918 and higher up, once we get past 19 cubits, 438 00:35:05,918 --> 00:35:10,278 that's really bad, a catastrophic flood. 439 00:35:14,758 --> 00:35:19,598 Islamic authorities in Cairo used the great Nilometer 440 00:35:19,598 --> 00:35:22,838 to calculate their annual tax demands. 441 00:35:25,078 --> 00:35:28,398 The perfect flood meant perfect profits ahead. 442 00:35:29,998 --> 00:35:32,958 Thus, this brilliant piece of design 443 00:35:32,958 --> 00:35:37,758 was an early Islamic alternative to the pocket calculator. 444 00:35:39,998 --> 00:35:42,318 Before they'd built the Aswan Dam, 445 00:35:42,318 --> 00:35:47,998 these tunnels here led off into the Nile at three different levels. 446 00:35:47,998 --> 00:35:52,238 So if they weren't closed off now, I would be under water. 447 00:35:53,438 --> 00:35:58,158 Look at those pointed arches above the tunnels. 448 00:35:58,158 --> 00:36:01,598 That's pure Gothic, 400 years early. 449 00:36:05,798 --> 00:36:10,838 The Nilometer was designed by the famed Persian astronomer 450 00:36:10,838 --> 00:36:15,958 Abu al-Abbas Ahmad ibn Muhammad ibn Kathir al-Farghani, 451 00:36:15,958 --> 00:36:18,638 better known to us by his Latin name, Alfraganus. 452 00:36:22,598 --> 00:36:26,278 Alfraganus's most famous achievement as an astronomer 453 00:36:26,278 --> 00:36:29,318 was calculating the diameter of the Earth. 454 00:36:29,318 --> 00:36:32,318 Copernicus was said to have used his results. 455 00:36:32,318 --> 00:36:35,558 There's even a crater on the moon named after him, 456 00:36:35,558 --> 00:36:37,198 the Alfraganus Crater. 457 00:36:39,358 --> 00:36:42,198 But it isn't just science that created this, 458 00:36:42,198 --> 00:36:45,398 and it isn't just commerce either. 459 00:36:45,398 --> 00:36:46,758 All the way round, 460 00:36:46,758 --> 00:36:50,918 there are also these beautiful Koranic inscriptions, 461 00:36:50,918 --> 00:36:52,958 in a lovely Kufic script. 462 00:36:54,318 --> 00:36:57,278 "Thou seest the Earth barren and lifeless...", 463 00:36:57,278 --> 00:36:59,998 it says, at the 17 cubit mark. 464 00:37:01,078 --> 00:37:05,078 "..But when we pour rain on it, it is stirred to life". 465 00:37:08,358 --> 00:37:13,078 At the Nilometer in Cairo, science, commerce and faith 466 00:37:13,078 --> 00:37:17,278 have combined in a uniquely Islamic fashion 467 00:37:17,278 --> 00:37:20,638 to create a technological wonder. 468 00:37:20,638 --> 00:37:26,318 This entire series is about how the Dark Ages weren't dark. 469 00:37:26,318 --> 00:37:28,918 But sometimes, I should just shut up 470 00:37:28,918 --> 00:37:31,878 and let you see the proof for yourselves, 471 00:37:31,878 --> 00:37:34,518 because it couldn't be more obvious. 472 00:37:36,758 --> 00:37:38,838 CALL TO PRAYER 473 00:37:44,478 --> 00:37:46,758 This is Kairouan in Tunisia. 474 00:37:47,918 --> 00:37:50,958 Once, this was a city of enormous power, 475 00:37:50,958 --> 00:37:55,638 the most important Islamic outpost in North Africa. 476 00:37:55,638 --> 00:37:58,558 Now, it's a marvellous place to visit 477 00:37:58,558 --> 00:38:01,478 for any true student of the Dark Ages. 478 00:38:04,078 --> 00:38:08,198 Kairouan, they say, was founded by the great Arab warrior, 479 00:38:08,198 --> 00:38:12,398 Sidi Uqba ibn Nafi, who conquered these parts for Islam 480 00:38:12,398 --> 00:38:15,838 just 50 years after the death of the Prophet. 481 00:38:16,838 --> 00:38:20,478 When Sidi Uqba got here, this was all desert. 482 00:38:20,478 --> 00:38:23,838 But something made him pause and look down at his feet. 483 00:38:25,398 --> 00:38:27,558 When Sidi looked down, 484 00:38:27,558 --> 00:38:32,718 he saw a miraculous spring of fresh water bubbling up, 485 00:38:32,718 --> 00:38:34,958 and in that water, a golden cup 486 00:38:34,958 --> 00:38:39,678 which he had lost many years before at the holy spring in Mecca. 487 00:38:40,878 --> 00:38:44,398 The underground waters seemed to have carried it here. 488 00:38:44,398 --> 00:38:47,078 So it was clearly a sign. 489 00:38:47,078 --> 00:38:52,478 And on this holy spot, Sidi Uqba founded Kairouan. 490 00:38:58,318 --> 00:39:02,318 At the centre of the new city, he built a new mosque, 491 00:39:02,318 --> 00:39:04,878 the oldest such mosque in North Africa. 492 00:39:06,318 --> 00:39:09,398 From the outside, there's not much sign of it. 493 00:39:09,398 --> 00:39:14,198 Islam isn't a religion that flaunts itself in the streets. 494 00:39:14,198 --> 00:39:18,238 But when you get inside into the great courtyard 495 00:39:18,238 --> 00:39:22,718 of the Sidi Uqba Mosque, what a powerful sight awaits you. 496 00:39:26,438 --> 00:39:29,918 Another practical use for these great mosque courtyards, 497 00:39:29,918 --> 00:39:32,118 particularly here in Kairouan, where it is so dry, 498 00:39:32,118 --> 00:39:35,198 is for collecting water. 499 00:39:35,198 --> 00:39:39,318 When it rains, all the water is channelled down here to the centre. 500 00:39:40,398 --> 00:39:45,598 See these decorative openings? They actually have a practical purpose. 501 00:39:45,598 --> 00:39:47,558 When the water flows through them, 502 00:39:47,558 --> 00:39:52,798 all these arabesques filter out the impurities, the dust, the feathers. 503 00:39:52,798 --> 00:39:55,278 Then the water, pure and clean, 504 00:39:55,278 --> 00:39:58,318 is saved below in two giant cisterns, 505 00:39:58,318 --> 00:40:02,638 so all of Kairouan can make use of it. 506 00:40:04,798 --> 00:40:06,798 Because it was built from nothing, 507 00:40:06,798 --> 00:40:10,638 Kairouan is a particularly pure Islamic city. 508 00:40:11,918 --> 00:40:14,518 There are few cases here 509 00:40:14,518 --> 00:40:19,998 of the Romans or the Vandals or the Byzantines. 510 00:40:19,998 --> 00:40:23,878 In Kairouan, Islam started from scratch. 511 00:40:28,518 --> 00:40:32,238 Except here, in the courtyard of the mosque. Look at this column. 512 00:40:32,238 --> 00:40:34,478 Look at the top. What is that, Corinthian? 513 00:40:34,478 --> 00:40:41,438 And next to it, Venetian? Over here, Roman, perhaps. 514 00:40:41,438 --> 00:40:45,918 Could even be Egyptian, who knows? Of the 414 columns 515 00:40:45,918 --> 00:40:51,198 arranged around this great courtyard of the mosque in Kairouan, 516 00:40:51,198 --> 00:40:52,798 no two are the same. 517 00:40:52,798 --> 00:40:54,518 Every column is different. 518 00:40:57,358 --> 00:40:59,638 That's because they were all taken 519 00:40:59,638 --> 00:41:03,318 from other people's temples and palaces and city halls. 520 00:41:04,478 --> 00:41:07,918 This entire mosque was built from bits and pieces 521 00:41:07,918 --> 00:41:09,998 of other ancient buildings. 522 00:41:12,078 --> 00:41:13,158 In the old days, 523 00:41:13,158 --> 00:41:16,318 it was actually forbidden to count the columns in here. 524 00:41:17,398 --> 00:41:20,438 Anyone caught doing it was blinded. 525 00:41:22,438 --> 00:41:23,598 If you look closely, 526 00:41:23,598 --> 00:41:27,038 you find some really surprising things about this courtyard. 527 00:41:27,038 --> 00:41:30,798 For example, up here, there's a Christian cross. 528 00:41:30,798 --> 00:41:35,358 So this column must have come from a Byzantine church. 529 00:41:35,358 --> 00:41:39,998 But through some miracle of architectural power, 530 00:41:39,998 --> 00:41:43,278 despite all this busy borrowing, 531 00:41:43,278 --> 00:41:49,078 the end result is an unmistakable sense of Islamic unity. 532 00:41:49,078 --> 00:41:52,238 This space could have come from nowhere else. 533 00:41:52,238 --> 00:41:56,078 This is unmistakably... 534 00:41:56,078 --> 00:41:58,878 an Islamic space. 535 00:42:03,718 --> 00:42:08,158 There are many remarkable things about the Kairouan Mosque. 536 00:42:08,158 --> 00:42:11,158 But particularly remarkable, I think, 537 00:42:11,158 --> 00:42:13,598 is the proof that is offered here 538 00:42:13,598 --> 00:42:18,078 that architecture is an art form of spaces, not of details. 539 00:42:19,118 --> 00:42:21,878 Of courtyards, not of capitals. 540 00:42:27,478 --> 00:42:28,718 See the tower here? 541 00:42:28,718 --> 00:42:31,878 It's got these slabs of stone at the base, 542 00:42:31,878 --> 00:42:34,158 with Latin inscriptions on them. 543 00:42:34,158 --> 00:42:37,478 See this one here, it's upside down. 544 00:42:37,478 --> 00:42:40,398 So these must have come from a Roman building. 545 00:42:42,918 --> 00:42:46,118 This is actually the oldest surviving Islamic minaret. 546 00:42:46,118 --> 00:42:49,598 It's got a bulky, militaristic presence, 547 00:42:49,598 --> 00:42:53,518 rising up in these three squat pieces. 548 00:42:53,518 --> 00:42:58,678 But like all minarets, its original purpose is glorious, 549 00:42:58,678 --> 00:43:03,558 to spread the word, to share the news, to shine a light. 550 00:43:07,598 --> 00:43:11,438 The minaret is one of the defining Islamic achievements 551 00:43:11,438 --> 00:43:12,638 of the Dark Ages. 552 00:43:13,958 --> 00:43:19,158 Islam did much that was inventive and progressive in architecture. 553 00:43:19,158 --> 00:43:22,278 But in its minarets, it surpassed itself. 554 00:43:26,438 --> 00:43:29,718 This word "minaret" comes from the Arabic "manarah", 555 00:43:29,718 --> 00:43:31,998 which means lighthouse. 556 00:43:31,998 --> 00:43:35,198 And that's its function, to be a beacon of hope, 557 00:43:35,198 --> 00:43:37,998 to offer safety and protection. 558 00:43:37,998 --> 00:43:42,518 And of course, the faithful were called to prayer from up there. 559 00:43:42,518 --> 00:43:45,318 In the very first mosque, built by Mohammed, 560 00:43:45,318 --> 00:43:48,078 the faithful were called from the rooftops. 561 00:43:48,078 --> 00:43:51,438 But as cities got bigger, mosques got bigger, 562 00:43:51,438 --> 00:43:55,998 you needed somewhere higher up from which to broadcast the faith. 563 00:43:58,998 --> 00:44:02,078 And look what inventive shapes were found 564 00:44:02,078 --> 00:44:03,958 for this conquest of the sky. 565 00:44:05,278 --> 00:44:09,598 This is the minaret of the Great Mosque of Samarra in Iraq. 566 00:44:09,598 --> 00:44:13,798 Its nickname, for obvious reasons, is "the snail shell". 567 00:44:15,678 --> 00:44:18,278 No-one else in the Dark Ages 568 00:44:18,278 --> 00:44:22,478 built anything as airily ambitious as this. 569 00:44:22,478 --> 00:44:25,958 And it wasn't just the mosques. 570 00:44:25,958 --> 00:44:30,318 This extraordinary brick masterpiece in Iran 571 00:44:30,318 --> 00:44:35,558 is the tomb of the Ziyarid prince, Qabus ibn Voshmgir. 572 00:44:36,638 --> 00:44:39,198 It's a thousand years old, 573 00:44:39,198 --> 00:44:42,958 but looks like something the Bauhaus might have come up with, 574 00:44:42,958 --> 00:44:44,158 don't you think? 575 00:44:45,998 --> 00:44:50,798 Inside, Qabus had himself suspended at his death 576 00:44:50,798 --> 00:44:53,998 in a coffin of pure rock crystal. 577 00:44:56,158 --> 00:45:00,078 What a thrilling Islamic conquest of the heavens. 578 00:45:09,558 --> 00:45:14,918 Speaking of rock crystal, it's a very special substance, isn't it? 579 00:45:16,638 --> 00:45:20,958 According to the Koran, when the chosen arrive in Paradise, 580 00:45:20,958 --> 00:45:25,478 they will be given drinks of ginger, 581 00:45:25,478 --> 00:45:29,318 served in goblets of crystal. 582 00:45:33,598 --> 00:45:36,838 Crystal, or rock crystal to be more specific, 583 00:45:36,838 --> 00:45:41,198 was a substance with which Islam seemed to have a special affinity. 584 00:45:42,758 --> 00:45:45,038 They say it was Ahmed ibn Tulun himself 585 00:45:45,038 --> 00:45:49,838 who introduced the art of carving rock crystals into Egypt. 586 00:45:49,838 --> 00:45:52,998 What's certain is that it was in Egypt 587 00:45:52,998 --> 00:45:56,878 that this difficult art reached perfection. 588 00:45:59,758 --> 00:46:01,478 I don't know about you, 589 00:46:01,478 --> 00:46:04,998 but I can't think of many substances in the world 590 00:46:04,998 --> 00:46:08,238 with a presence as magical as rock crystal. 591 00:46:10,278 --> 00:46:14,158 Particularly when it has passed through the hands 592 00:46:14,158 --> 00:46:16,638 of the master carvers of Islam. 593 00:46:16,638 --> 00:46:22,318 Only a handful of these gorgeous Islamic ewers have survived. 594 00:46:23,438 --> 00:46:26,838 And that just makes them feel even more precious. 595 00:46:29,358 --> 00:46:32,838 Rock crystal itself is actually very common. 596 00:46:32,838 --> 00:46:34,958 It's just a type of quartz, 597 00:46:34,958 --> 00:46:39,198 and quartz is the most common mineral in the Earth's crust. 598 00:46:39,198 --> 00:46:44,398 You get it everywhere. Look. There's a stripe of it here. 599 00:46:47,158 --> 00:46:50,278 What isn't common is pieces of quartz 600 00:46:50,278 --> 00:46:53,318 so pure and perfect and transparent 601 00:46:53,318 --> 00:46:58,998 that they satisfy the demands of the great crystal carvers of Islam. 602 00:47:01,198 --> 00:47:05,518 No-one has ever carved rock crystal more finely than this. 603 00:47:06,798 --> 00:47:10,198 What they'd do is find a perfect lump of crystal 604 00:47:10,198 --> 00:47:15,638 and shape it on the outside, and then begin hollowing out the inside. 605 00:47:15,638 --> 00:47:19,878 They'd hollow it further and further and further, 606 00:47:19,878 --> 00:47:22,758 till in the very best Islamic art, 607 00:47:22,758 --> 00:47:28,998 the walls of the crystal were only a couple of millimetres thick. 608 00:47:28,998 --> 00:47:31,278 Now, that was unbelievably difficult. 609 00:47:35,158 --> 00:47:39,918 The shimmering images carved into these gorgeous crystal ewers 610 00:47:39,918 --> 00:47:43,038 would transport the drinker to paradise. 611 00:47:44,758 --> 00:47:49,958 Hunting scenes, flowers, beautiful birds, 612 00:47:49,958 --> 00:47:53,998 so crystal clear that none could resist them. 613 00:47:57,118 --> 00:47:59,038 And it wasn't just Islam 614 00:47:59,038 --> 00:48:02,958 that saw something magical in this rock crystal. 615 00:48:02,958 --> 00:48:05,678 In Ireland, when Ireland was still pagan, 616 00:48:05,678 --> 00:48:08,358 they used to put pieces of rock crystal 617 00:48:08,358 --> 00:48:10,958 at the entrance of the burial chambers. 618 00:48:12,278 --> 00:48:16,558 And in Egypt, they carved it into perfect spheres, 619 00:48:16,558 --> 00:48:20,438 which apparently kept your hands cool when you touched it. 620 00:48:20,438 --> 00:48:26,638 And of course, it was used for telling the future, and it still is. 621 00:48:32,278 --> 00:48:37,598 All sorts of Dark Age societies were fascinated by rock crystal. 622 00:48:38,878 --> 00:48:43,838 The Roman naturalist, Pliny the Elder, believed that rock crystal 623 00:48:43,838 --> 00:48:49,638 was actually frozen water, trapped for aeons under the glaciers. 624 00:48:51,998 --> 00:48:55,038 Even the early Christians worshipped it. 625 00:48:55,038 --> 00:49:01,798 For them, rock crystal had a natural relationship with divine perfection. 626 00:49:01,798 --> 00:49:04,918 So they'd put it on the outside of their reliquaries 627 00:49:04,918 --> 00:49:07,478 and up in their golden crosses, 628 00:49:07,478 --> 00:49:13,878 where its perfect presence seemed somehow to connect them to God. 629 00:49:16,238 --> 00:49:19,838 Christian rock crystal has a different feel to it. 630 00:49:20,958 --> 00:49:22,398 In Christian hands, 631 00:49:22,398 --> 00:49:27,198 the light-filled paradise of Islam seemed to fill up with shadows. 632 00:49:29,198 --> 00:49:31,238 With Christian rock crystal, 633 00:49:31,238 --> 00:49:33,998 the Dark Ages are what you expect them to be - 634 00:49:35,398 --> 00:49:41,358 Mysterious, spooky and talismanic. 635 00:49:45,718 --> 00:49:51,158 The water engineers of Islam perfected their hydraulic skills 636 00:49:51,158 --> 00:49:54,878 in lands where water was precious and rare. 637 00:49:56,118 --> 00:50:00,318 So their relationship to it had something of the dream about it. 638 00:50:02,198 --> 00:50:06,398 For Islam, water wasn't just a necessity - 639 00:50:06,398 --> 00:50:08,878 it was an enticement, too. 640 00:50:10,358 --> 00:50:12,638 This is Cordoba in Spain. 641 00:50:12,638 --> 00:50:16,718 The Muslim armies got here in 711 AD 642 00:50:16,718 --> 00:50:18,918 and conquered it from the Visigoths - 643 00:50:18,918 --> 00:50:21,078 remember them from the last film? 644 00:50:21,078 --> 00:50:23,398 And when Islam arrived in Spain 645 00:50:23,398 --> 00:50:28,438 it could not believe how fertile this new territory was, 646 00:50:28,438 --> 00:50:32,758 how full of paradisiacal waters. 647 00:50:34,358 --> 00:50:37,678 This is the Guadalquivir in Andalusia, 648 00:50:37,678 --> 00:50:41,438 the largest navigable river in Spain. 649 00:50:41,438 --> 00:50:43,598 The name is Islamic. 650 00:50:43,598 --> 00:50:48,558 It comes from al-wadi al-kabir, which means "The Great Valley". 651 00:50:50,518 --> 00:50:55,638 These days the Guadalquivir River is only navigable up to Seville, 652 00:50:55,638 --> 00:51:00,718 but in Islamic times you could sail all the way up here to Cordoba 653 00:51:00,718 --> 00:51:02,598 and in this great city, 654 00:51:02,598 --> 00:51:06,398 Islamic water architecture surpassed itself. 655 00:51:07,558 --> 00:51:09,758 All along the Guadalquivir, 656 00:51:09,758 --> 00:51:13,478 a cunning system of mills, dams and water wheels 657 00:51:13,478 --> 00:51:16,558 channelled the energy of the waters. 658 00:51:18,198 --> 00:51:22,758 The water wheels of Cordoba lifted water from the river 659 00:51:22,758 --> 00:51:27,198 high up to the bank where the gardeners of Islam used it 660 00:51:27,198 --> 00:51:30,398 to recreate paradise on Earth. 661 00:51:34,758 --> 00:51:37,638 This isn't actually an Islamic garden - 662 00:51:37,638 --> 00:51:39,878 it's an Islamic-style garden 663 00:51:39,878 --> 00:51:43,358 built by the Christian kings here in Cordoba. 664 00:51:43,358 --> 00:51:47,678 Unfortunately, the original Islamic garden has disappeared. 665 00:51:47,678 --> 00:51:51,838 But Islam was here for 500 years 666 00:51:51,838 --> 00:51:56,798 so this style of garden-making is ingrained in the culture. 667 00:51:56,798 --> 00:52:00,278 What you still get here is a vivid sense 668 00:52:00,278 --> 00:52:03,158 of how the Islamic garden felt. 669 00:52:04,838 --> 00:52:10,118 Fountains, waterways, flowers - 670 00:52:10,118 --> 00:52:14,678 these are the divine atmospheres of those magical paradisiacal mosaics 671 00:52:14,678 --> 00:52:18,958 we saw in the Great Mosque at Damascus. 672 00:52:18,958 --> 00:52:21,198 Except this time they're real. 673 00:52:25,798 --> 00:52:30,558 To enter the mosque at Cordoba you need to pass through 674 00:52:30,558 --> 00:52:35,278 another beautiful evocation of the paradise ahead - 675 00:52:35,278 --> 00:52:39,358 an orange grove. So divinely harmonious. 676 00:52:41,518 --> 00:52:44,958 This was obviously a very desirable location. 677 00:52:45,998 --> 00:52:49,998 They say there was a Visigoth church here originally 678 00:52:49,998 --> 00:52:54,598 and later, when the Muslims were finally kicked out of Spain, 679 00:52:54,598 --> 00:52:59,398 a Catholic cathedral was plonked in the middle of the mosque 680 00:52:59,398 --> 00:53:02,598 creating this ungainly hybrid. 681 00:53:03,718 --> 00:53:07,318 It was the Umayyad prince, Abd al-Rahman I, 682 00:53:07,318 --> 00:53:10,238 who began building the Cordoba mosque. 683 00:53:10,238 --> 00:53:13,838 He actually bought the land from the Christians 684 00:53:13,838 --> 00:53:17,438 and in those early days of religious tolerance, 685 00:53:17,438 --> 00:53:21,078 Muslims and Christians shared the building. 686 00:53:23,598 --> 00:53:28,038 The Cordoba mosque is famous for its columns. 687 00:53:28,038 --> 00:53:30,558 856 of them. 688 00:53:31,638 --> 00:53:35,198 "Like rows of palm trees in the oasis of Syria," 689 00:53:35,198 --> 00:53:37,358 is how someone's described them. 690 00:53:39,078 --> 00:53:41,758 Columns are very laborious to make 691 00:53:41,758 --> 00:53:46,278 and they use up a lot of precious stone, so they're very heavy, 692 00:53:46,278 --> 00:53:49,558 and if you can avoid making them, you will. 693 00:53:50,678 --> 00:53:52,478 For the Cordoba mosque, 694 00:53:52,478 --> 00:53:56,478 the columns came from the Visigoth church that was there before 695 00:53:56,478 --> 00:53:59,718 and also from nearby Roman temples. 696 00:53:59,718 --> 00:54:04,598 But these reused Visigoth columns weren't quite tall enough 697 00:54:04,598 --> 00:54:09,038 so to make the Cordoba mosque higher and more airy 698 00:54:09,038 --> 00:54:14,278 the architects of Islam came up with a brilliant new idea - 699 00:54:14,278 --> 00:54:16,598 the double arch. 700 00:54:18,878 --> 00:54:21,358 Two arches for the price of one. 701 00:54:22,518 --> 00:54:24,958 At the bottom, the horseshoe arch, 702 00:54:24,958 --> 00:54:29,758 borrowed, as we saw in the last film, from the Visigoths. 703 00:54:29,758 --> 00:54:34,438 Then, on top of that, a round arch, arch number two, 704 00:54:34,438 --> 00:54:38,198 making the mosque taller, less solid-looking. 705 00:54:38,198 --> 00:54:41,318 More see-through. 706 00:54:41,318 --> 00:54:44,518 For the first time in European architecture 707 00:54:44,518 --> 00:54:48,478 the aesthetics of light were shaping a building. 708 00:55:04,758 --> 00:55:07,438 Do you know, Cordoba, when the Muslims were here, 709 00:55:07,438 --> 00:55:10,198 had a half a million people living in it. 710 00:55:10,198 --> 00:55:15,038 It was by far the largest and most prosperous city in western Europe 711 00:55:15,038 --> 00:55:18,998 and all of those inhabitants had running water. 712 00:55:18,998 --> 00:55:23,598 They had toilets that flushed, street lamps - 713 00:55:23,598 --> 00:55:25,838 in the 10th century. 714 00:55:27,638 --> 00:55:33,918 In urban planning, architecture, mathematics and water engineering, 715 00:55:33,918 --> 00:55:37,718 Islamic knowledge was peerless. 716 00:55:37,718 --> 00:55:44,798 And in one area it was spectacular - astronomy, the study of the stars. 717 00:55:46,798 --> 00:55:54,078 90 percent of the 200 brightest stars in the sky have Arabic names. 718 00:55:54,078 --> 00:55:58,798 Vega, Betelgeuse, Algol, Deneb - 719 00:55:58,798 --> 00:56:02,598 they're all creations of the Dark Ages 720 00:56:02,598 --> 00:56:08,558 because Arabic astronomy allowed the Dark Ages to glimpse the cosmos. 721 00:56:10,638 --> 00:56:16,558 Remember those stars painted on to the roof at the palace in Qusayr Amra? 722 00:56:16,558 --> 00:56:19,358 Well, that was just the beginning. 723 00:56:19,358 --> 00:56:26,638 While Christian science was insisting on a backward, biblical understanding of the cosmos, 724 00:56:26,638 --> 00:56:32,838 Islamic science was investigating the heavens more adventurously. 725 00:56:37,078 --> 00:56:39,918 This little baby here, the astrolabe, 726 00:56:39,918 --> 00:56:42,958 has been called the first computer. 727 00:56:42,958 --> 00:56:46,878 It was developed to pinpoint the direction of Mecca. 728 00:56:46,878 --> 00:56:50,038 Muslims needed to pray five times a day 729 00:56:50,038 --> 00:56:53,318 in a specific direction at specific times. 730 00:56:53,318 --> 00:56:58,078 The astrolabe could work all that out in relation to the stars 731 00:56:58,078 --> 00:57:04,278 so this was the first compass as well, and the first clock. 732 00:57:06,278 --> 00:57:08,878 So the way it works, the first thing you need to do 733 00:57:08,878 --> 00:57:11,198 is decide on which star you want to focus on 734 00:57:11,198 --> 00:57:14,398 and I'm going to choose Vega. 735 00:57:14,398 --> 00:57:19,758 So I find Vega in the sky and with these sights here 736 00:57:19,758 --> 00:57:24,038 I line it up until I can see Vega in the middle. 737 00:57:25,358 --> 00:57:27,678 It's exactly there. 738 00:57:27,678 --> 00:57:30,798 And that gives me a reading here in degrees, 739 00:57:30,798 --> 00:57:32,478 degrees from the horizontal. 740 00:57:32,478 --> 00:57:38,398 So I can see that Vega, right now, is 35 degrees. 741 00:57:38,398 --> 00:57:41,798 So the next thing to do is to set the date, measured, of course, 742 00:57:41,798 --> 00:57:45,438 in the old-fashioned way, in phases of the zodiac. 743 00:57:45,438 --> 00:57:48,198 Right now we're in Gemini, so... 744 00:57:48,198 --> 00:57:52,198 In fact, we're in the 15th degree of Gemini. 745 00:57:52,198 --> 00:57:55,718 About there, otherwise known as the end of May. 746 00:57:58,358 --> 00:58:03,798 So this is basically that in diagrammatic form 747 00:58:03,798 --> 00:58:08,238 and whatever is true on here is also true out there. 748 00:58:08,238 --> 00:58:11,358 So I know the date, I know where Vega is, 749 00:58:11,358 --> 00:58:16,238 so, with the help of this handy Dark Age sat-nav 750 00:58:16,238 --> 00:58:18,998 I can finally work out where I am. 751 00:58:20,558 --> 00:58:26,438 It was Alfraganus, the multi-skilled designer of the Nilometer in Cairo 752 00:58:26,438 --> 00:58:31,238 who undertook the first great Islamic exploration of the stars. 753 00:58:33,278 --> 00:58:36,598 He was followed by many others. 754 00:58:36,598 --> 00:58:41,318 Without Islamic science and its sensuous delight in the cosmos, 755 00:58:41,318 --> 00:58:45,518 perhaps this really would have been a dark age. 756 00:58:45,518 --> 00:58:49,558 With Islamic science, it was anything but. 757 00:58:50,638 --> 00:58:53,998 In the next film we'll be heading north 758 00:58:53,998 --> 00:58:58,438 to celebrate those fine craftsmen the Vikings 759 00:58:58,438 --> 00:59:04,758 and to investigate those particularly skilled jewellers of the Dark Ages, 760 00:59:04,758 --> 00:59:07,238 the Anglo-Saxons. 761 00:59:21,398 --> 00:59:24,438 Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd 65664

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