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'Head to the Greek Islands
for our holidays.
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'And it's easy to see why.'
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This is Greece.
4
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Look at that.
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'I have a strong affinity
with the islands, my mum is Greek.
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'But I've only holidayed here...'
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Here we go.
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'..Until now.
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'So I'm going to explore
their hidden side...'
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There's nobody here.
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Hello, everybody!
You're good.
12
00:00:29,975 --> 00:00:32,710
'..From their breath-taking
natural wonders...'
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00:00:32,735 --> 00:00:34,920
Let me show you our real mother.
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00:00:34,945 --> 00:00:38,740
'..To the colourful customs
and the architectural splendour.'
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That is a miracle of loveliness.
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It makes me proud to be
just that little bit Greek.
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This is a voyage of discovery,
and I'm taking you with me.
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00:01:02,584 --> 00:01:05,200
I haven't been to Santorini
since I was 17
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00:01:05,225 --> 00:01:07,509
and since then
it's changed unimaginably.
20
00:01:07,534 --> 00:01:10,590
It's become one of the most popular
destinations in Europe
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00:01:10,615 --> 00:01:12,870
and one of the most famous
in the world,
22
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and this is why -
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the impossibly scenic,
gorgeous views.
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Every year, nearly two million
people are lured to Santorini,
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not least for its
spellbinding sunsets.
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00:01:30,765 --> 00:01:34,150
But my tip - it's well worth
setting the alarm early
27
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at least once so you can experience
the total tranquillity
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of a sunrise like this one.
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And then you have it
all to yourself.
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Located southeast of mainland Greece
in the Aegean Sea,
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Santorini is the undisputed jewel
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in the crown of the Cyclades.
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Striking blue-domed churches
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and whitewashed villages
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00:01:57,534 --> 00:02:00,429
populate this
76-square-kilometre island.
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00:02:01,865 --> 00:02:04,790
But Santorini
owes its seductive looks
37
00:02:04,815 --> 00:02:07,710
to one of the most catastrophic
geological events
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00:02:07,735 --> 00:02:09,230
in recorded history.
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00:02:10,295 --> 00:02:12,309
About 3,500 years ago,
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that volcano erupted...
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00:02:15,895 --> 00:02:18,629
...and the centre
of the island collapsed.
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Then the interior
filled with the sea
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and created this, the caldera.
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Believed by some to have inspired
the legend
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of the Lost City of Atlantis,
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one thing is certain,
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it left behind one of the most
spectacular landscapes
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in all of Greece.
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Only 60 years ago,
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00:02:45,735 --> 00:02:47,990
Santorini lacked
even the most basic amenities.
51
00:02:48,015 --> 00:02:51,710
But now with more than
50 five-star hotels and resorts,
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00:02:51,735 --> 00:02:54,480
it's become a playground
for the rich and famous.
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00:02:54,505 --> 00:02:56,379
I'd better scrub up a bit.
54
00:02:56,404 --> 00:02:59,710
I'm meeting the woman
who kick-started the transformation,
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opening Santorini's first
luxury hotel in the '90s.
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00:03:03,125 --> 00:03:05,270
Today, Kalia's still catering
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00:03:05,295 --> 00:03:07,200
to its most discerning visitors
58
00:03:07,225 --> 00:03:09,070
here at her newest hideaway.
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00:03:09,095 --> 00:03:12,480
And, yes, she does look a bit like
a Greek Sandra Bullock.
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00:03:12,505 --> 00:03:14,910
You know this island very well.
Yes.
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00:03:14,935 --> 00:03:17,870
So Santorini has gone from micro,
from this,
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00:03:17,895 --> 00:03:20,350
it's exploded, hasn't it,
over the decades?
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00:03:20,375 --> 00:03:22,590
Back in the '90s, Santorini was
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00:03:22,615 --> 00:03:24,870
a very simple, like, um...
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00:03:24,895 --> 00:03:27,710
not well- known island.
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00:03:27,735 --> 00:03:31,660
It was more a place for
bed and breakfast, for camping.
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00:03:31,685 --> 00:03:34,429
If you then said Santorini
was a luxury destination,
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00:03:34,454 --> 00:03:36,590
everybody would think,
"Are you crazy?
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00:03:36,615 --> 00:03:37,840
"Who would go there for luxury?"
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00:03:37,865 --> 00:03:42,509
Local people never expected
from no electricity in the '70s
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00:03:42,534 --> 00:03:47,120
to this kind of amazing,
wow destination
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00:03:47,145 --> 00:03:48,870
that Santorini became today.
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00:03:48,895 --> 00:03:51,840
Once the rustic retreat
of an eccentric widow
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00:03:51,865 --> 00:03:54,379
with connections
to the Greek royal family,
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00:03:54,404 --> 00:03:56,230
and a passion for horses,
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00:03:56,255 --> 00:03:59,870
these clays her stables
are luxurious suites
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00:03:59,895 --> 00:04:03,120
and the hotel has one of the most
lnstagramable pools
78
00:04:03,145 --> 00:04:05,299
I've ever seen.
79
00:04:05,324 --> 00:04:09,509
Santorini has become so popular
because of its natural beauty.
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The Santorini selfie.
81
00:04:11,404 --> 00:04:12,870
Exactly, the Santorini selfie.
82
00:04:12,895 --> 00:04:15,480
And do you think there is still
83
00:04:15,505 --> 00:04:17,509
a hidden, unexplored Santorini?
84
00:04:17,534 --> 00:04:19,870
Oh, my God, absolutely.
85
00:04:19,895 --> 00:04:21,629
If you stay here for a week,
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I will take you to places
that you never thought they exist.
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Almost two thirds of Santorini
are unexplored.
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00:04:28,295 --> 00:04:30,549
All in good time.
89
00:04:30,574 --> 00:04:33,342
But there's no way I'm passing up
the opportunity to take a dip
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00:04:33,367 --> 00:04:34,783
in THAT pool.
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00:04:39,025 --> 00:04:41,250
With as many as 18,000 tourists
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00:04:41,275 --> 00:04:43,930
descending on the island
some days...
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...it's hard to imagine
finding peace and quiet
94
00:04:48,404 --> 00:04:51,270
away from the crowds
jostling for the best view.
95
00:04:55,685 --> 00:04:58,629
But it's the hidden Santorini
I'm after,
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00:04:58,654 --> 00:05:02,020
so I'm back in my hiking boots
and on its trail.
97
00:05:04,324 --> 00:05:06,590
I don't think when you mention
98
00:05:06,615 --> 00:05:08,429
the island of Santorini to people
99
00:05:08,454 --> 00:05:11,270
that the first thing that pops into
their head is walking and hiking.
100
00:05:11,295 --> 00:05:14,150
Well, neither was I thinking about
walking in Santorini
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before I moved here.
102
00:05:16,785 --> 00:05:19,320
My guide is fellow walking fan Nico,
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who first fell in love
with the island 20 years ago...
104
00:05:23,085 --> 00:05:26,190
and probably knows how to get off
the beaten track here
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00:05:26,215 --> 00:05:27,539
better than anyone.
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00:05:27,564 --> 00:05:30,170
During the first season,
I actually got overwhelmed
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00:05:30,195 --> 00:05:31,399
with the tourism
108
00:05:31,424 --> 00:05:33,560
and I started walking the paths
realising that
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nobody is walking on them any more.
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So it was very satisfying
to discover
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that there's about 65 to 70km
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00:05:41,585 --> 00:05:43,599
of paths all over the island.
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Nice.
Around landscape like this
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where it's so quiet.
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It is nice to be able to
escape like this.
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Yes.
And to share all of this beauty.
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Absolutely.
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Today, we're following an
ancient track linking villages
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which still bear the sign of a time
when the island was ruled by Italy.
120
00:06:03,345 --> 00:06:05,120
Let's have a look behind us.
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00:06:05,145 --> 00:06:06,320
0h!
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00:06:06,345 --> 00:06:07,680
So what's that village called?
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00:06:07,705 --> 00:06:09,680
This is Emporio.
Emporio.
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00:06:09,705 --> 00:06:12,479
Meaning "commerce". One of the
biggest villages of the island.
125
00:06:12,504 --> 00:06:15,349
Built around one of the five castles
the Venetians built
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00:06:15,374 --> 00:06:17,680
in the 1200s and 1300s.
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00:06:17,705 --> 00:06:20,269
So you don't think of castles
when you think of Santorini.
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You've got five of them.
129
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Five of them.
Quite greedy!
130
00:06:23,065 --> 00:06:25,240
It's not us, it's the Venetians.
131
00:06:25,265 --> 00:06:26,599
There we go.
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00:06:28,225 --> 00:06:32,560
Up here, it's easy to see
Santorini's spectacular coastline
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isn't the only legacy of that
explosive chapter in its history.
134
00:06:37,065 --> 00:06:41,450
The rich, volcanic soil
makes this a forager's paradise.
135
00:06:41,475 --> 00:06:43,200
Fig trees.
136
00:06:43,225 --> 00:06:46,320
Just the random fig tree
on your walking path.
137
00:06:46,345 --> 00:06:48,519
Capers growing wild everywhere.
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Capers.
139
00:06:50,225 --> 00:06:52,090
One of the hardest plants
to cultivate.
140
00:06:52,115 --> 00:06:54,240
You don't get this
in the Lake District
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or the Yorkshire Dales or the Peaks.
142
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THEY CHUCKLE
143
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Fantastic.
144
00:07:00,785 --> 00:07:03,450
Winding through a landscape
of vineyards,
145
00:07:03,475 --> 00:07:06,349
every bend of the path
reveals more of the island's
146
00:07:06,374 --> 00:07:08,200
unexpected edible delights.
147
00:07:08,225 --> 00:07:09,630
What's this?
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00:07:09,655 --> 00:07:11,630
It's a weed, essentially,
149
00:07:11,655 --> 00:07:14,450
so you can cut some
and just rub it.
150
00:07:14,475 --> 00:07:15,519
What is it?
151
00:07:15,544 --> 00:07:17,990
That's wild fennel,
if I'm not mistaken.
152
00:07:18,015 --> 00:07:23,160
Mmm. Oh, that is a really
zingy aniseed smell.
153
00:07:23,185 --> 00:07:24,680
Goes right up the nostrils.
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Especially when your nostrils
are as big as mine. Lovely.
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It hasn't escaped my attention
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that we're heading ever upwards
on our hike.
157
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In fact, our destination
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is the highest point in Santorini
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and the former capital Pyrgos.
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A labyrinth of traditional houses
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built around one of those fortresses
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left behind by the Venetians.
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The alleyways were designed
to be deliberately
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misleading and confusing,
weren't they?
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Yes, to confuse the pirates
who were trying to find
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the only entrance of the castle.
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Certainly worked. It confuses me.
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Nico is promising me
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00:08:04,865 --> 00:08:06,910
we'll be rewarded for our efforts.
170
00:08:06,935 --> 00:08:09,120
We're in search of
a secret sunset spot.
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Is this it?
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There is no way I'd be able to
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track this down without him.
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00:08:18,015 --> 00:08:20,160
Is that not our
viewing platform there?
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00:08:20,185 --> 00:08:21,399
No, not quite yet.
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00:08:22,905 --> 00:08:24,800
It was pretty lovely.
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00:08:24,825 --> 00:08:26,960
I've got something more special
for you.
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And to your right.
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Let's turn left here.
OK.
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00:08:34,374 --> 00:08:36,070
In here.
Oh, good Lord.
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In through the door?
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Up the steps.
Oh, up the steps.
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It's a proper
magical mystery tour, this.
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00:08:46,294 --> 00:08:48,399
0h!
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Now this is a special spot.
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Efharisto poli!
Parakalo.
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Oh, thank you.
My pleasure.
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00:08:59,345 --> 00:09:03,479
That is a miracle of loveliness.
189
00:09:05,705 --> 00:09:08,320
Where would most people go
for the sunsets?
190
00:09:08,345 --> 00:09:10,840
I would think here,
the northwestern tip,
191
00:09:10,865 --> 00:09:13,479
the most famous spot
for watching the sunset.
192
00:09:13,504 --> 00:09:15,040
Not as special as this spot?
193
00:09:15,065 --> 00:09:17,349
See, I bring you
to all the best places.
194
00:09:17,374 --> 00:09:19,680
Well, Nico does!
195
00:09:21,705 --> 00:09:23,090
In the memory bank.
196
00:09:23,115 --> 00:09:24,630
The blue dome,
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the two crosses,
the sun setting over the sea.
198
00:09:29,825 --> 00:09:31,910
I'll remember this.
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00:09:41,585 --> 00:09:43,839
I'm on Santorini,
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00:09:43,864 --> 00:09:46,400
known today as the supermodel
201
00:09:46,425 --> 00:09:48,120
of the Greek Islands.
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00:09:48,145 --> 00:09:50,150
More Gisele than Kate Moss, I'd say.
203
00:09:50,175 --> 00:09:53,920
But for years,
Santorini was considered
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00:09:53,945 --> 00:09:55,839
one of the Aegean's poorest places
to live.
205
00:09:55,864 --> 00:09:58,680
This island
has very little rainfall,
206
00:09:58,705 --> 00:10:01,230
but because of its fertile,
volcanic soil,
207
00:10:01,255 --> 00:10:03,759
everything that grows here
is rich in flavour,
208
00:10:03,784 --> 00:10:06,000
including an old peasant dish
209
00:10:06,025 --> 00:10:07,790
that's still a Santorini speciality
210
00:10:07,815 --> 00:10:10,120
and one of my faves.
211
00:10:11,585 --> 00:10:13,280
I'm heading to a local cafe
212
00:10:13,305 --> 00:10:17,150
in the village of Pyrgos
to try the fava beans.
213
00:10:21,425 --> 00:10:23,589
Lovely to see you.
214
00:10:23,614 --> 00:10:26,560
Antonis owns Cafe Brusco
215
00:10:26,585 --> 00:10:29,150
where his fava beans are prepared
in the same way
216
00:10:29,175 --> 00:10:31,120
they would have been
generations ago.
217
00:10:31,145 --> 00:10:34,950
So, this is the old-school way,
traditional way.
218
00:10:40,705 --> 00:10:44,639
Basically, the stone grinder...
219
00:10:44,664 --> 00:10:48,959
OK.
..Is taking off the shells.
220
00:10:48,984 --> 00:10:52,150
And you're left with the favas.
221
00:10:53,425 --> 00:10:56,150
Wherever you go in Greece,
you'll be served fava beans,
222
00:10:56,175 --> 00:10:58,200
but the Santorini favas
223
00:10:58,225 --> 00:10:59,639
are unique to this island,
224
00:10:59,664 --> 00:11:01,680
and they've been granted
special status.
225
00:11:01,705 --> 00:11:04,933
They're dried for a year before
they're ready for grinding.
226
00:11:10,187 --> 00:11:11,932
Will you hire me? Do I have a job?
227
00:11:11,957 --> 00:11:13,322
Yes?
228
00:11:14,876 --> 00:11:17,052
Once the bean has been ground
out of the husk,
229
00:11:17,077 --> 00:11:19,052
they need to be separated.
230
00:11:20,876 --> 00:11:23,771
As you swirl them,
you can see the casings
231
00:11:23,796 --> 00:11:25,242
rising to the top.
232
00:11:27,467 --> 00:11:29,212
Then, kind of...
233
00:11:29,237 --> 00:11:31,052
And then...
Yes.
234
00:11:34,717 --> 00:11:36,412
There they are.
235
00:11:36,437 --> 00:11:38,442
So this is for the chickens.
Yes.
236
00:11:38,467 --> 00:11:41,412
And these are for us.
Yes.
237
00:11:41,437 --> 00:11:42,851
Very nice.
238
00:11:42,876 --> 00:11:44,851
Very nice.
239
00:11:48,157 --> 00:11:49,851
JULIA LAUGHS
240
00:11:49,876 --> 00:11:51,212
In our family,
241
00:11:51,237 --> 00:11:55,018
we are a little bit partial
to the old fava bean paste.
242
00:11:55,043 --> 00:11:58,521
It's similar to houmous
in texture,
243
00:11:58,546 --> 00:12:00,962
but the taste is sweeter.
244
00:12:00,987 --> 00:12:03,242
It's just delicious.
245
00:12:03,267 --> 00:12:05,962
Far from its peasant roots,
246
00:12:05,987 --> 00:12:09,771
the Santorini product is now
an expensive, gourmet product
247
00:12:09,796 --> 00:12:11,682
harvested by farmers on the island.
248
00:12:13,357 --> 00:12:15,962
The locals here like to enjoy it
as a dip
249
00:12:15,987 --> 00:12:18,851
gently cooked into a smooth paste.
250
00:12:20,157 --> 00:12:22,162
It's the moment of truth.
251
00:12:22,187 --> 00:12:24,052
Yasou.
252
00:12:28,107 --> 00:12:30,052
From Santorini, sweet wine.
253
00:12:30,077 --> 00:12:31,521
Ah, Efharisto poli.
254
00:12:35,796 --> 00:12:37,242
I have a feeling
255
00:12:37,267 --> 00:12:40,721
that this is going to be the best
fava bean paste I've ever tasted.
256
00:12:45,796 --> 00:12:47,242
Mmm.
257
00:12:48,907 --> 00:12:50,412
Such a delicate flavour.
258
00:12:52,387 --> 00:12:55,521
They mix the fava beans for
a long, long time. They heat them.
259
00:12:55,546 --> 00:12:57,412
They add olive oil,
260
00:12:57,437 --> 00:13:00,412
they add onion, they keep mixing,
261
00:13:00,437 --> 00:13:03,212
they scoop off the top
of the surface.
262
00:13:03,237 --> 00:13:05,692
And they end up with this.
263
00:13:05,717 --> 00:13:07,442
This is Santorini
264
00:13:07,467 --> 00:13:09,242
in a little dish.
265
00:13:09,267 --> 00:13:11,521
It's just a demonstration of
266
00:13:11,546 --> 00:13:13,721
the deliciousness
267
00:13:13,746 --> 00:13:17,692
of the fruit and vegetables on this
very, very fertile volcanic island.
268
00:13:19,157 --> 00:13:22,082
Not even 11 and I'm drinking wine.
Whoop-whoop. Winning.
269
00:13:29,676 --> 00:13:31,971
I've had a taste
of the old Santorini,
270
00:13:31,996 --> 00:13:34,802
but these clays, it's hard
to escape the signs
271
00:13:34,827 --> 00:13:37,012
of the island's recent reinvention
272
00:13:37,037 --> 00:13:39,971
catering to the massive influx
of tourists.
273
00:13:39,996 --> 00:13:44,601
Sadly, one of the biggest downsides
is what they leave behind.
274
00:13:46,827 --> 00:13:50,012
While laws are being introduced
to ban single-use plastic,
275
00:13:50,037 --> 00:13:53,082
a huge amount still ends up
in the sea every day.
276
00:13:55,357 --> 00:13:58,292
But I'm meeting someone
who's doing something about it.
277
00:13:58,317 --> 00:13:59,692
Yasou.
278
00:13:59,717 --> 00:14:01,332
Hello, hello.
279
00:14:01,357 --> 00:14:02,802
I'm Julia.
280
00:14:02,827 --> 00:14:04,802
Nice to meet you, Julia.
Xanthe?
281
00:14:04,827 --> 00:14:07,362
Xanthe.
Hi, nice to meet you, Lefteris.
282
00:14:07,387 --> 00:14:09,132
How are you, Lefteris?
I'm fine, thank you.
283
00:14:12,157 --> 00:14:15,082
Xanthe, the same name
as one of my daughters,
284
00:14:15,107 --> 00:14:16,572
is the skipper of this boat
285
00:14:16,597 --> 00:14:19,292
and she's taking us along
the south coast of Santorini
286
00:14:19,317 --> 00:14:21,771
past the famous white beach.
287
00:14:21,796 --> 00:14:23,651
That's pretty incredible, isn't it?
288
00:14:23,676 --> 00:14:24,882
It's like a huge iceberg.
289
00:14:25,957 --> 00:14:28,971
Born into a family of
five generations of fishermen,
290
00:14:28,996 --> 00:14:31,521
Lefteris is determined to bring
Santorini's waters
291
00:14:31,546 --> 00:14:33,932
back to their former glory.
292
00:14:35,027 --> 00:14:36,362
What's the project called?
293
00:14:36,387 --> 00:14:38,572
The name of the project is Enaleia.
294
00:14:38,597 --> 00:14:40,932
Which in Greek means
"together with the fishermen."
295
00:14:40,957 --> 00:14:43,132
I saw that together with the nets
296
00:14:43,157 --> 00:14:45,442
the fishermen were collecting
a lot of plastic.
297
00:14:45,467 --> 00:14:47,651
And I saw a can of Coca-Cola.
298
00:14:47,676 --> 00:14:49,521
It had a weird colour
299
00:14:49,546 --> 00:14:51,362
so I saw the expiration date
300
00:14:51,387 --> 00:14:53,651
and it expired in 1987.
301
00:14:53,676 --> 00:14:56,362
And you realised how long
all the rubbish stays down there.
302
00:14:56,387 --> 00:14:57,442
Yes.
303
00:14:57,467 --> 00:15:00,212
The biggest shock was when
the fisherman took it from my hand
304
00:15:00,237 --> 00:15:01,721
and threw it back in the sea.
305
00:15:01,746 --> 00:15:05,002
He told me that's the problem
we have.
306
00:15:05,027 --> 00:15:06,932
And then he threw it back?
Yes!
307
00:15:06,957 --> 00:15:10,572
So how are you and this project
going to get over that?
308
00:15:10,597 --> 00:15:13,721
So we give them now bins
to put the plastic there.
309
00:15:13,746 --> 00:15:17,312
Then they bring it up in
seven ports, currently in Greece,
310
00:15:17,337 --> 00:15:20,982
where we store it and then
we recycle and upcycle it.
311
00:15:21,007 --> 00:15:22,822
And these are made from plastic
312
00:15:22,847 --> 00:15:24,822
that's been collected
by the fishermen?
313
00:15:24,847 --> 00:15:27,741
Exactly. Specifically,
this one is made from net.
314
00:15:27,766 --> 00:15:28,902
They are turned into socks.
315
00:15:28,927 --> 00:15:30,632
So you're upcycling and recycling.
316
00:15:30,657 --> 00:15:32,182
Yes, and we are just
getting started.
317
00:15:32,207 --> 00:15:34,382
So hopefully we are able to clean
318
00:15:34,407 --> 00:15:37,432
maybe four or five tonnes
of marine plastic per week.
319
00:15:37,457 --> 00:15:39,382
Now our fishermen,
they are so proud.
320
00:15:39,407 --> 00:15:43,182
They are really, really inspired
and talking to other fishermen
321
00:15:43,207 --> 00:15:45,871
because they see that in the areas
that we do the project,
322
00:15:45,896 --> 00:15:47,512
the sea is becoming cleaner.
323
00:15:47,537 --> 00:15:49,621
And the fish are more again.
324
00:15:52,537 --> 00:15:56,102
This is a subject that
I'm really passionate about.
325
00:15:56,127 --> 00:15:59,182
This story and the people
behind this story
326
00:15:59,207 --> 00:16:02,352
are genuinely inspiring.
327
00:16:03,657 --> 00:16:05,741
This is one of the problems
that we're all living with.
328
00:16:06,977 --> 00:16:09,232
And these guys want to do
something about it.
329
00:16:15,337 --> 00:16:19,022
I've been told if I want to see
what life on Santorini was like
330
00:16:19,047 --> 00:16:20,541
before tourism took hold...
331
00:16:22,657 --> 00:16:25,352
...all I need to do
is take a short boat ride.
332
00:16:29,407 --> 00:16:30,982
Thank you.
333
00:16:32,686 --> 00:16:35,822
This is Thirasia, baby Santorini.
334
00:16:35,847 --> 00:16:40,022
You can see Mama Santorini
over there about ten minutes away.
335
00:16:40,047 --> 00:16:41,741
This is how it used to be
336
00:16:41,766 --> 00:16:43,902
about 60 years ago.
337
00:16:43,927 --> 00:16:46,152
What a contrast.
338
00:16:46,177 --> 00:16:51,072
It may share the same dramatic
landscape as its glitzy neighbour,
339
00:16:51,097 --> 00:16:55,352
but Thirasia really is
like stepping back in time.
340
00:16:55,377 --> 00:16:59,741
This is the Greece
always described to me by my mum.
341
00:16:59,766 --> 00:17:01,991
Just three and a half miles square,
342
00:17:02,016 --> 00:17:05,822
much of its sparse, mountainous
landscape is uninhabited.
343
00:17:05,847 --> 00:17:10,072
Calling this place sleepy
is an understatement.
344
00:17:10,097 --> 00:17:12,382
There are signs that tourism
is starting
345
00:17:12,407 --> 00:17:15,022
to spread across the water
from Santorini,
346
00:17:15,047 --> 00:17:18,342
but the visitors who come here
rarely venture beyond the harbour.
347
00:17:21,686 --> 00:17:25,512
Maybe it's the steep climb
that puts people off exploring.
348
00:17:25,537 --> 00:17:27,382
But, fortunately,
349
00:17:27,407 --> 00:17:30,102
I've bagged the island's only taxi
to take me to the top.
350
00:17:31,457 --> 00:17:33,871
I think this is my ride.
351
00:17:35,047 --> 00:17:37,382
And I'm definitely
travelling in style.
352
00:17:37,407 --> 00:17:39,262
It's the Popemobile!
353
00:17:43,047 --> 00:17:45,152
Hi.
Hello! Yasou.
354
00:17:47,377 --> 00:17:49,102
Thank you.
355
00:17:49,127 --> 00:17:51,022
Lovely carpet.
356
00:17:51,047 --> 00:17:53,592
SHE SPEAKS GREEK
357
00:17:53,617 --> 00:17:55,262
Efharisto.
358
00:18:01,327 --> 00:18:03,462
It's a far cry from the black cabs.
359
00:18:04,847 --> 00:18:07,232
The old kitchen cupboard door
is a bit rickety.
360
00:18:07,257 --> 00:18:08,871
A bit wobbly.
361
00:18:16,816 --> 00:18:18,902
It's definitely unspoilt,
this island, isn't it?
362
00:18:21,537 --> 00:18:23,741
Couldn't be more different
to Santorini.
363
00:18:24,847 --> 00:18:27,302
It's quite mad, really,
364
00:18:27,327 --> 00:18:30,462
to go from all that glamour
365
00:18:30,487 --> 00:18:33,352
and pulsating tourism...
366
00:18:35,297 --> 00:18:37,512
...to this sleepy little island.
367
00:18:41,327 --> 00:18:45,022
An island that didn't even have
electricity until 1980.
368
00:18:46,537 --> 00:18:48,822
I'm gonna get out here,
wherever here is.
369
00:18:50,327 --> 00:18:53,022
Efharisto, Manoli.
370
00:18:53,047 --> 00:18:54,822
There we go.
371
00:18:54,847 --> 00:18:56,022
Thank you.
372
00:18:56,047 --> 00:18:58,871
I've come to the capital, Manolas,
373
00:18:58,896 --> 00:19:01,592
but it's little more than a village.
374
00:19:05,537 --> 00:19:08,352
Strolling through
its almost deserted lanes
375
00:19:08,377 --> 00:19:10,462
feels a world away from anything.
376
00:19:14,016 --> 00:19:16,822
The hub is the
church of Saint Constantine
377
00:19:16,847 --> 00:19:18,661
built over 100 years ago.
378
00:19:20,377 --> 00:19:23,182
That's where I'm meeting
Papa Loukas,
379
00:19:23,207 --> 00:19:25,302
the village priest
of nearly 30 years.
380
00:19:29,967 --> 00:19:32,791
What a beautiful church.
381
00:19:32,816 --> 00:19:35,822
Behind us, this is very beautiful.
I haven't seen...
382
00:19:35,847 --> 00:19:37,592
This is Grandfather.
383
00:19:37,617 --> 00:19:39,072
Your grandfather made this?
Yes.
384
00:19:46,896 --> 00:19:48,432
Shipwrecks?
385
00:19:48,457 --> 00:19:50,661
That's why it's so unique.
386
00:19:50,686 --> 00:19:52,791
How many people live on the island?
387
00:19:57,686 --> 00:20:03,871
And what do you think of Santorini,
which is... so big?
388
00:20:20,487 --> 00:20:24,102
What is so special about Thirasia,
the island,
389
00:20:24,127 --> 00:20:26,232
what is so "orea" about Thirasia?
390
00:20:53,657 --> 00:20:54,871
So they're all wrong.
391
00:20:54,896 --> 00:20:57,541
This is the place to come
for the best sunsets, not Santorini.
392
00:20:57,566 --> 00:20:59,232
We're all wrong.
393
00:21:06,047 --> 00:21:10,661
Thirasia is the most untouched
island I've been to so far.
394
00:21:10,686 --> 00:21:12,541
It's like stepping back in time.
395
00:21:12,566 --> 00:21:16,871
And even though it's so close to
the glamourous energy of Santorini,
396
00:21:16,896 --> 00:21:18,512
it's a different world.
397
00:21:18,537 --> 00:21:20,991
I wonder how long
it'll stay like this?
398
00:21:22,127 --> 00:21:24,871
Returning to Santorini
after so many years
399
00:21:24,896 --> 00:21:27,352
really has been full of contrast,
400
00:21:27,377 --> 00:21:30,352
from 21st century luxuries
401
00:21:30,377 --> 00:21:33,102
to rustic, undiscovered charm.
402
00:21:33,127 --> 00:21:36,352
I certainly won't be leaving it
so long before I come back again.
403
00:21:38,816 --> 00:21:42,632
'Next time, my Greek odyssey
takes me to the Sporades -
404
00:21:42,657 --> 00:21:45,462
'the paradise islands.'
405
00:21:45,487 --> 00:21:46,541
There's nobody here.
406
00:21:46,566 --> 00:21:49,462
'Visiting Skiathos and Skopolos,
407
00:21:49,487 --> 00:21:51,942
'I'll be discovering
colourful local traditions...'
408
00:21:51,967 --> 00:21:55,541
I feel very Greek and very hot.
409
00:21:55,566 --> 00:21:58,072
'..And taking in
the blockbusting scenery
410
00:21:58,097 --> 00:21:59,462
'of the Mamma Mia island.'
411
00:21:59,487 --> 00:22:01,632
That is just amazing.
412
00:22:01,657 --> 00:22:04,072
This is Greece. Look at that.
413
00:22:05,537 --> 00:22:07,512
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