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1
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Almost three months ago,
I set sail aboard the Black Swan.
2
00:00:35,440 --> 00:00:38,280
Now my journey is coming to an end.
3
00:00:57,200 --> 00:00:58,800
Wow!
4
00:01:10,080 --> 00:01:12,760
The city of Istanbul.
5
00:01:12,760 --> 00:01:15,480
I can hardly believe it.
6
00:01:53,800 --> 00:01:57,080
I've been sailing from Venice
to Istanbul,
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00:01:57,080 --> 00:02:00,560
following the trading route
of my ancestors.
8
00:02:03,480 --> 00:02:08,440
For the last few weeks,
we've been in Turkish waters
9
00:02:08,440 --> 00:02:14,360
and now, at last,
we are sailing along the Bosporus
10
00:02:14,360 --> 00:02:16,600
towards Istanbul.
11
00:02:36,520 --> 00:02:40,960
This is one of the most
unforgettable sights in the world,
12
00:02:40,960 --> 00:02:44,360
Istanbul as seen from the Bosporus.
13
00:02:44,360 --> 00:02:47,080
On this side is Europe
14
00:02:47,080 --> 00:02:50,200
and on that side is Asia.
15
00:02:50,200 --> 00:02:53,160
This is the only city in the world
16
00:02:53,160 --> 00:02:56,520
that stretches across
two continents.
17
00:03:03,520 --> 00:03:09,600
This city has been called
many names - Constantinople,
18
00:03:09,600 --> 00:03:13,480
the new Rome, Byzantium,
19
00:03:13,480 --> 00:03:16,520
and now, Istanbul.
20
00:03:27,680 --> 00:03:30,480
Across the centuries,
21
00:03:30,480 --> 00:03:36,960
a capital of both Christian
and Islamic civilizations,
22
00:03:36,960 --> 00:03:41,920
but always a mighty power
against us Venetians
23
00:03:41,920 --> 00:03:46,800
as we competed to control
the Mediterranean.
24
00:04:05,880 --> 00:04:07,360
Oh, ciao.
25
00:04:10,160 --> 00:04:14,040
In the old town,
street life is at its most vibrant.
26
00:04:15,840 --> 00:04:18,280
Tradition of trade and art,
27
00:04:18,280 --> 00:04:20,600
unchanged for centuries.
28
00:04:22,560 --> 00:04:25,600
Wow!
29
00:04:25,600 --> 00:04:27,840
# Istanbul was Constantinople
30
00:04:27,840 --> 00:04:29,720
# Now it's Istanbul
Not Constantinople
31
00:04:29,720 --> 00:04:30,840
# Been a long time gone
32
00:04:30,840 --> 00:04:32,880
# Old Constantinople
still has Turkish delight
33
00:04:32,880 --> 00:04:33,920
# On a moonlight night
34
00:04:33,920 --> 00:04:38,280
# Every gal in Constantinople
Is a Miss-stanbul, not Constantinople
35
00:04:38,280 --> 00:04:41,840
# So if you've date in Constantinople
She'll be waiting in Istanbul... #
36
00:05:11,080 --> 00:05:12,880
No, it stays like this. Out.
37
00:05:16,080 --> 00:05:18,120
I need some training!
38
00:05:18,120 --> 00:05:20,040
# Take me back to Constantinople
39
00:05:20,040 --> 00:05:22,240
# No, you can't go back
to Constantinople
40
00:05:22,240 --> 00:05:24,320
Been a long time, not Constantinople
41
00:05:24,320 --> 00:05:26,320
# Why did Constantinople
get the works?
42
00:05:26,320 --> 00:05:31,200
# That's nobody's business
but the Turks
43
00:05:31,200 --> 00:05:36,480
# Istanbul! #
44
00:05:40,760 --> 00:05:45,840
'This is the main gateway
to the Topkapi Palace.
45
00:05:47,840 --> 00:05:53,880
'Topkapi was at the heart
of the Ottoman Empire for 400 years.
46
00:05:55,960 --> 00:06:00,440
'A sprawling complex
of magnificent buildings,
47
00:06:00,440 --> 00:06:03,480
'home to the Sultan and his court.'
48
00:06:07,920 --> 00:06:14,040
Three days a week, ordinary people
were allowed here to make petitions,
49
00:06:14,040 --> 00:06:18,520
but despite all this going in
and out, silence reigned
50
00:06:18,520 --> 00:06:22,400
out of respect for the Sultan,
who could have been watching.
51
00:06:26,440 --> 00:06:32,520
The Gate Of Felicity takes me
through to the inner sanctum
of the Palace.
52
00:06:53,200 --> 00:06:57,520
Here, the private affairs
of the Palace went on.
53
00:06:57,520 --> 00:07:01,560
The treasury,
the library, the school
54
00:07:01,560 --> 00:07:06,040
and leading to the very centre
of power.
55
00:07:17,880 --> 00:07:20,080
This is the Throne Room.
56
00:07:20,080 --> 00:07:26,760
Here the Sultan would meet his
council and approve or disapprove
their proposals.
57
00:07:43,000 --> 00:07:48,880
And this is the most secret
part of the Palace.
58
00:07:48,880 --> 00:07:50,320
The harem.
59
00:08:05,920 --> 00:08:11,840
The Sultan was the only man with
testicoli who could go inside,
60
00:08:11,840 --> 00:08:16,680
to make sure,
the harem was guarded by eunuchs,
61
00:08:16,680 --> 00:08:19,720
slaves who had chop off their...
62
00:08:19,720 --> 00:08:21,400
..hm.
63
00:08:24,200 --> 00:08:28,720
Hundreds of concubines
were kept in the harem,
64
00:08:28,720 --> 00:08:34,000
but the Sultan would only choose
a few for his personal pleasure.
65
00:08:40,520 --> 00:08:43,880
The world "harem"
still has an erotic air,
66
00:08:43,880 --> 00:08:47,200
but there was nothing
erotic about this place.
67
00:08:47,200 --> 00:08:52,720
It was a prison for women,
taken from their homes and families.
68
00:08:52,720 --> 00:08:55,520
It was a place of sorrow
and despair.
69
00:09:28,080 --> 00:09:30,080
I'm so sorry, I'm late. I'm sorry.
70
00:09:30,080 --> 00:09:32,720
Ah, hello. Welcome. Welcome.
But I'm ready.
71
00:09:32,720 --> 00:09:34,320
Are you sure? I hope so.
72
00:09:34,320 --> 00:09:36,440
OK, the gear is here. Let's go.
73
00:09:36,440 --> 00:09:41,640
No coffee? No time for coffee. OK.
74
00:09:43,200 --> 00:09:45,640
With the help of Ali Yamac,
75
00:09:45,640 --> 00:09:50,240
I'm about to discover
a hidden side of Istanbul.
76
00:09:50,240 --> 00:09:53,000
In a carpet shop? In a carpet shop.
77
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This is for you.
This for me. Is it safe to go down?
78
00:10:01,160 --> 00:10:04,240
You just follow me.
OK. You are so funny.
79
00:10:09,480 --> 00:10:11,120
You've got to turn on the light.
80
00:10:11,120 --> 00:10:13,840
What? Turn on the light. How?
81
00:10:13,840 --> 00:10:15,360
Like this.
82
00:10:20,000 --> 00:10:21,560
Ow.
83
00:10:21,560 --> 00:10:24,080
Watch your head. Yeah, too late.
84
00:10:29,520 --> 00:10:33,040
Wow! These are domes!
85
00:10:33,040 --> 00:10:38,920
'Beneath Istanbul
is a vast network of tunnels
86
00:10:38,920 --> 00:10:41,720
'dating back more than
1,000 years.'
87
00:10:43,120 --> 00:10:45,840
But this is true that the
Sultans were coming here?
88
00:10:45,840 --> 00:10:49,520
Yes, and there's a story about
Sultan Murat the Fourth.
89
00:10:49,520 --> 00:10:53,120
He was using those chambers and
galleries to go out of the palace at
90
00:10:53,120 --> 00:10:57,000
night times to check the people - if
they are smoking or drinking alcohol.
91
00:10:57,000 --> 00:11:00,440
He was like a Big Brother?
Yeah. Yes, actually.
92
00:11:00,440 --> 00:11:02,920
Anyhow, if he sees one...
93
00:11:04,520 --> 00:11:06,760
Oh, terrible! Really Big Brother.
94
00:11:11,240 --> 00:11:16,480
'There are hundreds of tunnels
like this beneath the city.'
95
00:11:16,480 --> 00:11:20,040
Which way now? This way.
This, this? This way.
96
00:11:26,600 --> 00:11:29,240
'Many have been forgotten.
97
00:11:29,240 --> 00:11:34,720
'Some are now blocked,
but once they all linked up,
98
00:11:34,720 --> 00:11:39,320
'connecting different parts
of the city.
99
00:11:39,320 --> 00:11:44,400
'There are also ancient underground
water cisterns.'
100
00:11:45,560 --> 00:11:49,800
Now, we have to put those things on.
Interesting!
101
00:11:51,160 --> 00:11:53,080
Real difficult thing.
102
00:11:54,680 --> 00:11:57,120
OK, we are ready now.
103
00:11:57,120 --> 00:11:58,600
If you say so. Let's go.
104
00:12:03,040 --> 00:12:05,880
This is like Venice
with a high tide!
105
00:12:14,200 --> 00:12:16,080
Wow, this is huge.
106
00:12:17,600 --> 00:12:21,520
Yeah, it was built
during the 6th Century.
107
00:12:21,520 --> 00:12:26,560
It's one of the largest
underground cisterns in Istanbul.
108
00:12:32,000 --> 00:12:34,480
Look at all those colours.
109
00:12:34,480 --> 00:12:37,200
Ah...
110
00:12:37,200 --> 00:12:40,320
And why there are
all different capitals?
111
00:12:40,320 --> 00:12:45,240
Cos they carried them from different
parts of Anatolia to here.
112
00:12:52,160 --> 00:12:54,840
Be careful with the channel. Yeah.
113
00:12:54,840 --> 00:12:58,480
What is here?
This is a capital, fell down.
114
00:13:03,480 --> 00:13:05,120
Oh, fishes!
115
00:13:05,120 --> 00:13:08,080
I hope there are no rats.
I hope so.
116
00:13:08,080 --> 00:13:10,440
Oh, it's raining here.
117
00:13:15,320 --> 00:13:18,960
'The cistern is incredible
118
00:13:18,960 --> 00:13:23,960
'but I'm about to see
the most mysterious sight of all.'
119
00:13:26,920 --> 00:13:29,240
Franky, look what's here.
120
00:13:29,240 --> 00:13:31,760
Once it was completely underwater.
121
00:13:31,760 --> 00:13:33,800
We have another one over there.
122
00:13:42,960 --> 00:13:47,640
'Two giant heads of Medusa.
123
00:13:49,040 --> 00:13:53,920
'They are wonderful, but no-one
knows why they are here.'
124
00:13:59,120 --> 00:14:02,240
Ali? I'm here. Come.
125
00:14:02,240 --> 00:14:03,520
Wait!
126
00:14:32,720 --> 00:14:34,760
My second day in Istanbul
127
00:14:34,760 --> 00:14:38,000
and it's seven o'clock
in the morning.
128
00:14:38,000 --> 00:14:41,040
Opening time at the grand bazaar.
129
00:14:45,320 --> 00:14:52,240
Istanbul has always been an
important trading city, like Venice,
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00:14:52,240 --> 00:14:58,400
and the grand bazaar
is one of the largest covered
markets in the world.
131
00:15:09,080 --> 00:15:16,040
There are 4,000 shops here,
selling jewellery, pottery,
132
00:15:16,040 --> 00:15:20,480
spices, carpets...
133
00:15:20,480 --> 00:15:23,280
Leather, and of course...
134
00:15:23,280 --> 00:15:26,600
..Turkish delight.
135
00:15:32,040 --> 00:15:37,200
58 streets
make up this vast emporium.
136
00:15:37,200 --> 00:15:40,760
It's a fantastic labyrinth.
137
00:15:45,480 --> 00:15:46,760
Lost!
138
00:15:50,920 --> 00:15:55,160
I'm meeting carpet seller,
Hakan Evin.
139
00:15:55,160 --> 00:15:56,760
Oh, hi, Francesco. Hello.
140
00:15:56,760 --> 00:15:59,040
How are you? Very well.
It's good to see you.
141
00:15:59,040 --> 00:16:01,280
So I'm here to learn. Yes!
142
00:16:01,280 --> 00:16:05,120
'Hakan is going to teach me
how to sell carpets.'
143
00:16:06,920 --> 00:16:11,040
I have to tell you that really,
I don't know anything about carpets.
144
00:16:11,040 --> 00:16:13,240
Yeah, no! I'm totally in your hands.
145
00:16:13,240 --> 00:16:16,520
Yeah, no problem. No problem.
So let's start.
146
00:16:16,520 --> 00:16:22,440
This is one of the oldest design
for Ottoman Empire. Ah...
147
00:16:22,440 --> 00:16:24,960
50 dollars is the cost prices.
148
00:16:24,960 --> 00:16:30,760
So, we should make at least
100% profit,
149
00:16:30,760 --> 00:16:36,800
because the expenses, tax,
or 150%, 200%.
150
00:16:36,800 --> 00:16:39,040
Wow! This is new.
151
00:16:39,040 --> 00:16:41,920
This looks old, but it is not old.
152
00:16:41,920 --> 00:16:44,320
It is tea-washed.
Ah, with the tea. I see.
153
00:16:44,320 --> 00:16:46,080
Yes, with the tea wash, we call.
154
00:16:46,080 --> 00:16:50,640
This is beautiful piece.
Wonderful piece.
155
00:16:50,640 --> 00:16:55,960
If this piece would be well restored,
this piece would be priceless.
156
00:16:55,960 --> 00:16:59,800
Easily over 5,000 dollars. Wow.
157
00:16:59,800 --> 00:17:03,840
Yes, but the problem of this piece,
the carpet dealers,
158
00:17:03,840 --> 00:17:09,320
instead of restoring it, what they
do is they paint the carpets.
159
00:17:09,320 --> 00:17:11,760
Do you see this
blue parts, this blue?
160
00:17:11,760 --> 00:17:13,440
Mmm-hmm. It's painted. OK.
161
00:17:15,440 --> 00:17:19,680
Wow! You see this is bad carpet
dealer stuff. Because it's faster?
162
00:17:19,680 --> 00:17:21,960
Yes. It is not my carpet.
163
00:17:21,960 --> 00:17:24,760
As you know, I bought it
from other store,
164
00:17:24,760 --> 00:17:28,200
because we do not have this
kind of restorations.
165
00:17:28,200 --> 00:17:33,520
We have original restorations,
like this for example.
166
00:17:33,520 --> 00:17:35,160
Do you see?
167
00:17:35,160 --> 00:17:37,400
We make the restoration.
168
00:17:37,400 --> 00:17:40,000
Of this part? Yes. We remade it.
169
00:17:40,000 --> 00:17:41,920
Can I try with that thing? Sure.
170
00:17:45,040 --> 00:17:46,760
You see, it's just... Yeah. Dirt.
171
00:17:46,760 --> 00:17:48,560
Dirt. You see?
172
00:17:49,720 --> 00:17:55,080
The price of a carpet
is not just about how old it is.
173
00:17:55,080 --> 00:18:00,440
The material used and the number
of knots in a carpet
174
00:18:00,440 --> 00:18:03,320
can also push the price up.
175
00:18:05,000 --> 00:18:07,160
Ah, now I am going to show you...
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00:18:07,160 --> 00:18:10,640
Mm-hm? The best carpets
that you can ever see in your life.
177
00:18:10,640 --> 00:18:15,320
You do not show this carpet
to lots of customers because
178
00:18:15,320 --> 00:18:18,000
it's so special.
179
00:18:18,000 --> 00:18:25,440
So you have to show it only for very,
very knowledgeable and rich peoples.
180
00:18:25,440 --> 00:18:27,280
It's important also.
181
00:18:27,280 --> 00:18:30,960
This is pure silk carpet. Wow!
182
00:18:30,960 --> 00:18:35,720
This is a real art,
like Turkish Picasso.
183
00:18:35,720 --> 00:18:43,640
This piece has 4,300,000 knots
inside of this piece
184
00:18:43,640 --> 00:18:48,240
and the woman cannot
make more than 2,000 knots a day.
185
00:18:48,240 --> 00:18:50,720
Wow. Because of it, is very tight.
186
00:18:50,720 --> 00:18:57,400
Yeah. So, it will take around
12 years to finish this piece.
187
00:18:57,400 --> 00:18:59,960
And how much costs this one?
188
00:18:59,960 --> 00:19:04,120
250,000 dollars.
189
00:19:04,120 --> 00:19:08,760
All we need is a customer
who likes art piece.
190
00:19:08,760 --> 00:19:12,080
For some people,
diamond is a good investment,
191
00:19:12,080 --> 00:19:15,680
but for some other people,
this is a good investment.
192
00:19:15,680 --> 00:19:19,520
I think I will not be able
to sell it.
193
00:19:21,160 --> 00:19:25,400
Hello. Hello. Hello. Would you like
to have a look at some carpets, huh?
194
00:19:25,400 --> 00:19:28,440
No. No. The carpets with silk,
Turkish silk. No, no.
195
00:19:28,440 --> 00:19:30,280
No.
196
00:19:30,280 --> 00:19:34,040
Would you like to buy a carpet?
What? Carpet.
197
00:19:35,520 --> 00:19:39,840
Is nice! Really.
Come. Just to have a look.
198
00:19:39,840 --> 00:19:43,080
No. You don't have to buy.
You don't like carpets?
199
00:19:43,080 --> 00:19:45,120
No. You have carpets at home? No.
200
00:19:45,120 --> 00:19:46,560
No carpets? No carpets.
201
00:19:46,560 --> 00:19:50,000
It's not that easy. Not that easy!
Yeah, it's a nightmare!
202
00:19:50,000 --> 00:19:51,720
Yeah. A nightmare!
203
00:19:51,720 --> 00:19:53,080
Marvellous, you see.
204
00:19:53,080 --> 00:19:55,880
I don't remember exactly
how many knots, but...
205
00:19:55,880 --> 00:20:00,080
Where, where's the size? It's like
this because it's quite expensive.
206
00:20:00,080 --> 00:20:01,760
This is Turkish silk.
207
00:20:01,760 --> 00:20:05,240
It's very good, it's big.
How do I know it's silk?
208
00:20:05,240 --> 00:20:08,520
420 knots per square centimetre.
209
00:20:08,520 --> 00:20:11,840
300 dollars. 800.
210
00:20:11,840 --> 00:20:13,360
No.
211
00:20:20,680 --> 00:20:22,880
OK. Six... So... No, five.
212
00:20:22,880 --> 00:20:24,640
600. 500.
213
00:20:24,640 --> 00:20:26,200
550. 550. No.
214
00:20:26,200 --> 00:20:29,440
Francesco, you are doing very good.
215
00:20:29,440 --> 00:20:32,120
Very. And are you from America? Yes.
216
00:20:32,120 --> 00:20:34,280
Americans are good. Yes, they are.
217
00:20:34,280 --> 00:20:39,200
They're friendly. As you see,
you can stop and talk to Americans.
218
00:20:39,200 --> 00:20:42,200
Germans, stay away from them.
219
00:20:42,200 --> 00:20:46,680
Italians, they are nice,
friendly, but they are stingy! Yeah.
220
00:20:46,680 --> 00:20:51,120
So we need to deal with the friendly
and potential customers, OK?
221
00:20:51,120 --> 00:20:53,760
Yeah, and full of money. Yes.
222
00:20:53,760 --> 00:20:56,760
No, she wants it for...
OK, 500. 500. OK. 500.
223
00:20:56,760 --> 00:20:59,920
Oh, right! Let me, let me help.
224
00:20:59,920 --> 00:21:01,440
It is his first sale.
225
00:21:01,440 --> 00:21:03,120
He is doing very good,
226
00:21:03,120 --> 00:21:07,120
so we will give you a
special discount, 500 dollars.
227
00:21:09,400 --> 00:21:11,920
It's good. It's done, this.
228
00:21:23,880 --> 00:21:26,280
It's time to relax a little
229
00:21:26,280 --> 00:21:31,960
and this is one of the best
Turkish baths in Istanbul.
230
00:21:56,120 --> 00:21:59,200
Scrub. Yes. Massage a la Turc. Yes.
231
00:21:59,200 --> 00:22:03,040
Complete bath service.
Complete orientals... Yes.
232
00:22:03,040 --> 00:22:04,800
Luxury service.
233
00:22:04,800 --> 00:22:06,960
Yes. I want that one!
234
00:22:14,840 --> 00:22:21,120
For Turks, a visit to the baths
is more than a good wash.
235
00:22:21,120 --> 00:22:25,360
The Qur'an stresses physical
cleanliness
236
00:22:25,360 --> 00:22:28,560
as a route to purity of the soul.
237
00:22:42,520 --> 00:22:44,520
SANDALS CLATTER
238
00:22:49,200 --> 00:22:51,400
Not very comfortable, these things.
239
00:22:55,600 --> 00:22:57,080
Hello.
240
00:23:18,760 --> 00:23:23,160
In the last two months, I'm sailing
with the same boat and I'm...
241
00:23:42,760 --> 00:23:45,000
Quite strong, actually.
242
00:24:09,600 --> 00:24:10,640
Fantastic!
243
00:24:18,920 --> 00:24:21,520
I think I've never been so clean.
244
00:24:37,200 --> 00:24:40,320
And now? Hmm?
245
00:24:40,320 --> 00:24:42,880
Ah, sleep? Mmm, sleep.
Oh, I think I can do that.
246
00:25:00,320 --> 00:25:02,200
It's my last night.
247
00:25:02,200 --> 00:25:05,640
Tomorrow, I go home to my family.
248
00:25:15,040 --> 00:25:16,560
Oh-oh!
249
00:25:39,360 --> 00:25:41,400
MUSIC STARTS
250
00:26:27,280 --> 00:26:28,360
Bravo!
251
00:27:05,880 --> 00:27:07,400
Massimo.
252
00:27:09,360 --> 00:27:10,360
Lollo.
253
00:27:10,360 --> 00:27:12,120
No!
254
00:27:17,880 --> 00:27:20,640
LAUGHTER AND CHEERING
255
00:27:23,440 --> 00:27:25,440
Bravo!
256
00:27:43,240 --> 00:27:48,000
Well, after three months at sea
my journey is at an end.
257
00:27:48,000 --> 00:27:53,000
It might not have been as epic
as those of previous amongst us -
258
00:27:53,000 --> 00:27:58,200
men went out for years
serving the Venetian Republic
259
00:27:58,200 --> 00:28:00,320
and even died for it -
260
00:28:00,320 --> 00:28:06,040
but at least I feel like I can look
my ancestors in the eye again.
261
00:28:08,640 --> 00:28:10,080
Ciao.
262
00:28:59,640 --> 00:29:02,880
Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd
263
00:29:02,880 --> 00:29:05,840
E-mail subtitling@bbc.co.uk
20157
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