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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:13,720 --> 00:00:17,400 FRANCESCO: After five weeks sailing the Mediterranean, 2 00:00:17,400 --> 00:00:24,680 we have docked in Athens for a few days to rest and refuel the boat. 3 00:00:24,680 --> 00:00:30,160 So, I'm using the time to go on a road trip. 4 00:00:52,720 --> 00:00:56,280 I'm heading into Greece's wild west. 5 00:01:00,040 --> 00:01:02,480 Grazie, ciao. 6 00:01:04,120 --> 00:01:08,560 It's a long way, so I need some wheels. 7 00:01:08,560 --> 00:01:11,200 MUSIC: "Born To Be Wild" by Steppenwolf 8 00:01:11,200 --> 00:01:14,440 Where I'm going people are tough, really tough. 9 00:01:14,440 --> 00:01:17,120 So I need to look the part. 10 00:01:19,040 --> 00:01:20,760 ENGINE REVS 11 00:02:12,120 --> 00:02:15,200 I'm half way from Venice to Istanbul, 12 00:02:15,200 --> 00:02:19,040 following the trading roots of my ancestors. 13 00:02:21,480 --> 00:02:26,840 We're in Greece and I'm heading south into the Peloponnese. 14 00:02:36,120 --> 00:02:41,400 The Corinth Canal divides the Peloponnese from the Greek mainland. 15 00:02:56,120 --> 00:03:00,280 This is a land steeped in myth and history. 16 00:03:11,040 --> 00:03:14,520 My first stop is an ancient site of architectural splendour. 17 00:03:16,560 --> 00:03:23,480 A vast arena built with just one purpose, to entertain. 18 00:03:44,560 --> 00:03:48,840 This is Epidaurus, the mother of all the theatres. 19 00:03:48,840 --> 00:03:53,480 These theatres were the cradle of all dramatic art today. 20 00:03:53,480 --> 00:03:58,400 Whether Hamlet, Tosca, or Buffy, The Vampire Slayer. 21 00:04:02,720 --> 00:04:06,240 Epidaurus was built 2,500 years ago. 22 00:04:06,240 --> 00:04:10,560 It was the Greeks who invented theatre. 23 00:04:10,560 --> 00:04:15,840 This place seats 14,000 people. 24 00:04:15,840 --> 00:04:21,120 Although, I'm not so sure how comfortable those stone benches are. 25 00:04:21,120 --> 00:04:25,600 It's every Greek actor's dream to perform here 26 00:04:25,600 --> 00:04:29,440 and I've got a date with one who's done it. 27 00:04:29,440 --> 00:04:31,560 Francesco! Artemis! 28 00:04:31,560 --> 00:04:33,120 How's it like to perform here? 29 00:04:33,120 --> 00:04:37,760 Oh, well, it's a great honour for an actor to perform here. 30 00:04:37,760 --> 00:04:43,400 This is one of the most handsome theatres in Greece and the most big, as you can see. 31 00:04:43,400 --> 00:04:46,480 You feel so, so tiny here, you know, 32 00:04:46,480 --> 00:04:52,880 but when the performance begins, you have another emotion that fills you. 33 00:04:52,880 --> 00:04:57,880 And how is it possible to hear you when you're down there? 34 00:04:57,880 --> 00:05:00,120 Well, the acoustic here is great. 35 00:05:00,120 --> 00:05:02,680 I'll show you. You stay here... 36 00:05:02,680 --> 00:05:04,600 ..and watch. OK. 37 00:05:07,080 --> 00:05:14,120 The acoustics are meant to be so good that even the smallest noise can be heard from the stage. 38 00:05:14,120 --> 00:05:18,000 Francesco. Yeah. Hear this. 39 00:05:20,240 --> 00:05:21,680 SOUND OF PAPER TEARING 40 00:05:21,680 --> 00:05:23,280 Wow. It's fantastic! 41 00:05:24,360 --> 00:05:26,520 Wait! 42 00:05:26,520 --> 00:05:28,960 PAPER CRUMPLING 43 00:05:43,120 --> 00:05:44,360 Brava! 44 00:05:49,880 --> 00:05:52,240 It was marvellous. What was it? 45 00:05:52,240 --> 00:05:55,960 Well, it was a monologue from Libation Bearers from Aeschylus. 46 00:05:55,960 --> 00:05:58,800 It's over 2,000 years old. 47 00:05:58,800 --> 00:06:00,240 Thanks. 48 00:06:06,160 --> 00:06:10,360 I'm finding these Greek roads a little nerve-wracking. 49 00:06:17,120 --> 00:06:22,680 It seems that Greeks have their own way of dealing with anxiety and stress. 50 00:06:22,680 --> 00:06:26,680 They're even more laid back than us Italians! 51 00:06:29,920 --> 00:06:32,800 Their secret to keeping calm - 52 00:06:32,800 --> 00:06:36,680 worry beads, in Greek called, komboloi. 53 00:06:36,680 --> 00:06:40,200 MUSIC: "Don't Worry, Be Happy" by Bobby McFerrin 54 00:07:00,280 --> 00:07:02,600 So many kombolois here. 55 00:07:02,600 --> 00:07:05,440 Yes, there are a lot. Wow! 56 00:07:05,440 --> 00:07:09,040 But why do the Greek use a komboloi? 57 00:07:09,040 --> 00:07:11,160 Because they won't have a company. 58 00:07:11,160 --> 00:07:13,800 They feel alone. Maybe, maybe. 59 00:07:13,800 --> 00:07:15,520 Do you have an old one to show me? 60 00:07:15,520 --> 00:07:17,440 Yes. 61 00:07:20,280 --> 00:07:22,560 They're all the kinds here. Uh-hmm. 62 00:07:22,560 --> 00:07:24,120 This is the oldest. 63 00:07:24,120 --> 00:07:28,400 It's about 400 years in amber. 64 00:07:28,400 --> 00:07:31,680 Amber, it is the most lucky, or every one is lucky? 65 00:07:31,680 --> 00:07:38,400 Every komboloi can give you good luck, if you choose with your heart. 66 00:07:38,400 --> 00:07:43,960 I'm doing a trip from Venice to Istanbul, sailing. 67 00:07:43,960 --> 00:07:45,680 I would like to buy one. 68 00:07:45,680 --> 00:07:48,240 I show you 69 00:07:48,240 --> 00:07:50,120 an olive wood. 70 00:07:50,120 --> 00:07:54,320 People in our country love very much this material. 71 00:07:54,320 --> 00:07:57,880 This is black coral with silver. 72 00:07:57,880 --> 00:08:01,120 This is a little heavier. Can I try that one, blue one? 73 00:08:01,120 --> 00:08:02,320 This one? 74 00:08:02,320 --> 00:08:05,120 Yes, the big one. 75 00:08:05,120 --> 00:08:07,680 OK. This is blue lagoon, blue coral. 76 00:08:07,680 --> 00:08:12,520 Nice colour. I like it. 77 00:08:12,520 --> 00:08:14,520 You like it. This is my choice. 78 00:08:14,520 --> 00:08:18,080 It's very difficult to choose, but if I have to pick one. 79 00:08:19,720 --> 00:08:22,120 And now, I don't worry any more. 80 00:08:41,800 --> 00:08:44,760 I'm heading inland into Arkadhia. 81 00:08:50,120 --> 00:08:55,080 In the ancient world, this was a safe haven in time of war. 82 00:09:00,360 --> 00:09:06,040 Today, the very word Arkadhia means earthly paradise. 83 00:09:06,040 --> 00:09:10,160 And seeing the real place, I'm not disappointed. 84 00:09:17,720 --> 00:09:21,640 It's so quiet, it's hard to believe not long ago, 85 00:09:21,640 --> 00:09:24,200 a great city flourished here. 86 00:09:24,200 --> 00:09:28,080 A place of learning, culture and power. 87 00:09:28,080 --> 00:09:32,000 It was called the Florence of the East. 88 00:09:38,400 --> 00:09:42,280 Today, the city of Mystra lies in ruins. 89 00:09:53,840 --> 00:09:56,320 Ruins like this never fail to move me. 90 00:09:56,320 --> 00:09:59,320 It's a reminder that in the future 91 00:09:59,320 --> 00:10:05,000 people will see what's left of our homes and lives in the same way - 92 00:10:06,560 --> 00:10:08,080 a humbling thought. 93 00:10:15,800 --> 00:10:18,960 But some of Mystra's treasures survive. 94 00:10:25,040 --> 00:10:27,560 This is the convent of the Pantanassa. 95 00:10:33,520 --> 00:10:37,400 It's home to a masterpiece of medieval art. 96 00:10:45,240 --> 00:10:49,360 These frescos were painted in the 1430s. 97 00:10:57,040 --> 00:10:59,320 They follow a strict code, 98 00:10:59,320 --> 00:11:04,120 a hierarchy seen in all Greek churches of the time. 99 00:11:06,160 --> 00:11:10,080 At the top is Christ, protecting us all. 100 00:11:12,640 --> 00:11:18,600 Beneath him is La Madonna, the Holy Virgin Mary. 101 00:11:18,600 --> 00:11:21,200 Then come the Saints. 102 00:11:25,400 --> 00:11:27,960 The frescos tell the story of Christ, 103 00:11:29,520 --> 00:11:31,560 his birth... 104 00:11:32,640 --> 00:11:34,960 ..His teachings... 105 00:11:34,960 --> 00:11:37,800 ..His entry into Jerusalem. 106 00:11:39,480 --> 00:11:44,760 The colours are not realistic, but bright and vibrant. 107 00:11:48,000 --> 00:11:51,880 Other churches in Europe are a little terrifying, 108 00:11:51,880 --> 00:11:56,000 but here the feeling, because of the colours, is joy. 109 00:11:56,000 --> 00:11:59,320 God is not to be feared, but loved. 110 00:11:59,320 --> 00:12:03,400 It is He that gave us happiness and beauty. 111 00:12:14,040 --> 00:12:19,280 The Ottoman Turks conquered Mystra in the 15th century. 112 00:12:20,880 --> 00:12:25,960 The city never regained its power and fell into decline. 113 00:13:03,840 --> 00:13:09,200 I'm entering the Mani, the most remote part of the Peloponnese. 114 00:13:18,080 --> 00:13:24,520 The inhabitants of this region are known as Maniates rather than Greeks. 115 00:13:24,520 --> 00:13:30,160 They are a people apart, used to doing things their own way. 116 00:13:32,960 --> 00:13:37,200 To understand them, you must see inside one of their churches. 117 00:13:42,800 --> 00:13:46,040 This church was built hundreds of years ago 118 00:13:46,040 --> 00:13:48,920 and I'm surprised it's still standing. 119 00:13:51,520 --> 00:13:55,120 This is, how you say, DIY church. 120 00:13:58,920 --> 00:14:01,640 Locked. 121 00:14:01,640 --> 00:14:06,000 All I need to do now is find the way to get in. 122 00:14:34,560 --> 00:14:37,800 SPEAKS GREEK 123 00:15:09,120 --> 00:15:12,840 This feels like a real Aladdin's Cave. 124 00:15:16,960 --> 00:15:23,320 Over the centuries, the villagers have continued to decorate it. 125 00:15:23,320 --> 00:15:28,600 Simple modern icons are mixed with ancient frescos. 126 00:15:37,560 --> 00:15:42,880 This may not be the most impressive church I've ever seen, 127 00:15:42,880 --> 00:15:46,960 but it's definitely the most intimate. 128 00:15:58,400 --> 00:16:03,320 It's not just the Maniates' churches which are hard to get into, 129 00:16:03,320 --> 00:16:05,800 but their hearts too. 130 00:16:05,800 --> 00:16:08,400 They are tough people 131 00:16:08,400 --> 00:16:11,840 and this is Greece's frontier land. 132 00:16:16,040 --> 00:16:21,040 Even today, they have a reputation for being unfriendly. 133 00:16:32,000 --> 00:16:34,720 I'm a little nervous about stopping here, 134 00:16:34,720 --> 00:16:37,240 but it looks like these days, 135 00:16:37,240 --> 00:16:41,440 they've swapped their pistols for backgammon. 136 00:16:49,840 --> 00:16:52,560 SPEAKS GREEK 137 00:17:14,400 --> 00:17:16,640 They went away. 138 00:17:16,640 --> 00:17:19,120 They don't want to play backgammon with me! 139 00:17:26,440 --> 00:17:30,040 Luckily not everyone in Mani is quite so hostile. 140 00:17:31,680 --> 00:17:34,640 George was born and bred here, 141 00:17:34,640 --> 00:17:37,000 but he's up for a game. 142 00:17:39,400 --> 00:17:41,840 What are the people in the Mani like? 143 00:17:41,840 --> 00:17:48,120 They live...very, very tough life. 144 00:17:48,120 --> 00:17:51,200 It's difficult? That's why their nature, 145 00:17:51,200 --> 00:17:53,960 because from the morning to the night, 146 00:17:53,960 --> 00:17:57,280 they did not know nothing else except to work, 147 00:17:57,280 --> 00:18:00,320 that's why they have a tough life. 148 00:18:00,320 --> 00:18:02,760 That's why they become tough people, 149 00:18:02,760 --> 00:18:04,080 I say. 150 00:18:06,200 --> 00:18:07,240 Three and one. 151 00:18:07,240 --> 00:18:10,520 And six. And six, yeah. 152 00:18:10,520 --> 00:18:12,720 Sixes or fives. 153 00:18:14,720 --> 00:18:18,200 Ah! We are both double! 154 00:18:19,080 --> 00:18:21,280 Great, very good! We drew and we are happy. 155 00:18:51,520 --> 00:18:56,640 You can tell just from the landscape that life could be hard here. 156 00:18:59,240 --> 00:19:04,640 The problem was, there just wasn't enough fertile land for everyone. 157 00:19:17,680 --> 00:19:22,200 This is Vathia, a village full of towers today destroyed. 158 00:19:22,200 --> 00:19:25,840 Each house was a, how you say, fortezza, 159 00:19:25,840 --> 00:19:29,000 a fortress to protect the people. 160 00:19:29,000 --> 00:19:32,120 Not just from outsiders, but their neighbours. 161 00:19:37,000 --> 00:19:39,680 In a charged atmosphere like this, 162 00:19:39,680 --> 00:19:43,000 fights broke out over food or family honour. 163 00:19:44,760 --> 00:19:48,200 The villagers built their homes like towers, 164 00:19:48,200 --> 00:19:52,080 so they could defend themselves from their rooftops. 165 00:20:07,440 --> 00:20:11,560 The vendettas could last months, even years. 166 00:20:11,560 --> 00:20:16,640 The women could go in and out of the homes with food and armour. 167 00:20:16,640 --> 00:20:19,720 And when it was harvest, the men go out. 168 00:20:19,720 --> 00:20:23,720 They worked together in fields as if nothing is wrong. 169 00:20:23,720 --> 00:20:29,200 Then they go home, lock their doors and try to kill each other again. 170 00:20:29,200 --> 00:20:31,040 It's crazy. 171 00:20:36,720 --> 00:20:41,440 Today, Vathia is uninhabited, 172 00:20:41,440 --> 00:20:44,880 but not because they all killed each other. 173 00:20:44,880 --> 00:20:50,160 In the early 20th century, many villagers emigrated to America. 174 00:20:51,760 --> 00:20:54,920 Considering what life here was like, 175 00:20:54,920 --> 00:20:58,400 I don't blame them for wanting to leave. 176 00:21:27,320 --> 00:21:30,720 It's difficult to imagine anything sweet 177 00:21:30,720 --> 00:21:36,040 coming out of this harsh place, but the Mani is famous for its honey. 178 00:21:51,280 --> 00:21:53,040 Can I taste some honey? 179 00:21:53,040 --> 00:21:56,080 Yes. We go? 180 00:21:56,080 --> 00:22:00,000 OK... 181 00:22:00,000 --> 00:22:01,640 This for you. Here. 182 00:22:08,960 --> 00:22:12,760 I have to admit, I'm a little scared of bees. 183 00:22:12,760 --> 00:22:17,480 Do you have something for the hands? No. No. 184 00:22:17,480 --> 00:22:22,000 Apparently bees can smell your fear. 185 00:22:22,000 --> 00:22:24,600 Fortunately, I'm in good hands. 186 00:22:24,600 --> 00:22:30,200 Sotiris has been looking after bees for over 30 years 187 00:22:30,200 --> 00:22:35,160 and he's assured me that smoke calms them down. 188 00:22:35,160 --> 00:22:36,760 I hope he's right! 189 00:22:38,600 --> 00:22:40,560 Wow. Mamma mia! 190 00:22:47,280 --> 00:22:48,360 Whoa! 191 00:22:53,840 --> 00:22:55,480 So many. 192 00:22:55,480 --> 00:22:57,920 And the queen is here? 193 00:22:57,920 --> 00:23:02,000 The queen, yes, is here, but it's difficult to... 194 00:23:02,000 --> 00:23:03,800 No, no, we don't wake her up! 195 00:23:03,800 --> 00:23:06,040 We leave her quiet. 196 00:23:06,040 --> 00:23:09,880 It's better. OK, leave it, no, we don't want to bother her. 197 00:23:09,880 --> 00:23:13,080 Just to know that she's here. 198 00:23:13,080 --> 00:23:14,600 And there is only one queen? 199 00:23:14,600 --> 00:23:17,040 Yes, only one. Only one. 200 00:23:17,040 --> 00:23:19,640 Oh, this is all honey. 201 00:23:19,640 --> 00:23:21,440 Wow. 202 00:23:21,440 --> 00:23:23,480 Can I taste it? 203 00:23:23,480 --> 00:23:24,520 Oh, my God. 204 00:23:25,760 --> 00:23:27,960 Go away, little one. 205 00:23:36,440 --> 00:23:37,920 Then how I do it?! 206 00:23:44,000 --> 00:23:46,440 Mmm! 207 00:23:46,440 --> 00:23:48,680 Buono, that's good. Yeah. 208 00:23:48,680 --> 00:23:50,880 Yeah, I like it. 209 00:24:03,080 --> 00:24:08,200 My journey through the Peloponnese is nearly at an end. 210 00:24:08,200 --> 00:24:10,440 I'm heading for a place that once 211 00:24:10,440 --> 00:24:13,480 witnessed a terrible tragedy for my people. 212 00:24:15,120 --> 00:24:20,000 It goes back to the days when Venice ruled half of the Mediterranean. 213 00:24:38,080 --> 00:24:39,880 This is the fortress of Methoni. 214 00:24:39,880 --> 00:24:43,000 We call it the Eyes of Venice. 215 00:24:43,000 --> 00:24:47,040 We had 100 fortresses like this all around the Med. 216 00:24:47,040 --> 00:24:51,440 You see, we couldn't have a big army in each place. 217 00:24:51,440 --> 00:24:54,480 So if attacked, we hide in the fort 218 00:24:54,480 --> 00:24:58,000 and wait for the navy to come rescue us. 219 00:25:04,080 --> 00:25:09,760 Strategically, Methoni was the most important of all our fortresses. 220 00:25:09,760 --> 00:25:16,680 From here we could prevent Turkish warships sailing up towards Venice. 221 00:25:18,880 --> 00:25:23,120 As long as we had Methoni, our empire was safe. 222 00:25:31,240 --> 00:25:34,360 All Venetian forts have our logo, 223 00:25:34,360 --> 00:25:38,480 the lion of St Mark, but the details change. 224 00:25:38,480 --> 00:25:40,920 Sometimes the book is open, 225 00:25:40,920 --> 00:25:45,520 sometimes it's closed and the lion grips a sword. 226 00:25:45,520 --> 00:25:51,960 It all depends what Venice's relationship is to that particular place. 227 00:25:53,520 --> 00:25:56,880 Here the book is open without the sword drawn. 228 00:25:56,880 --> 00:26:01,920 Here Venice is the law giver and the defender of Methoni. 229 00:26:11,680 --> 00:26:15,680 The Turks tried many times to take Methoni, 230 00:26:15,680 --> 00:26:18,800 but each time we fought them off. 231 00:26:18,800 --> 00:26:23,880 Then, in 1500, the unthinkable happened. 232 00:26:26,520 --> 00:26:30,560 The sultan himself arrived with a vast fleet 233 00:26:30,560 --> 00:26:33,000 and laid siege to Methoni. 234 00:26:35,000 --> 00:26:39,760 After a long resistance, the Turks breached the walls. 235 00:26:39,760 --> 00:26:42,720 In their attack, they were merciless. 236 00:26:48,640 --> 00:26:50,840 It was a massacre. 237 00:26:50,840 --> 00:26:55,960 The Turks killed the men and sold the women and children into slavery. 238 00:27:00,640 --> 00:27:06,120 The few men who survived the attack were taken here to the bourtzi, 239 00:27:06,120 --> 00:27:10,200 the tower that juts out from the end of the fortress. 240 00:27:17,600 --> 00:27:20,560 This was the last thing they saw 241 00:27:20,560 --> 00:27:25,040 as they were taken inside and executed. 242 00:27:40,680 --> 00:27:45,360 The locals say that when the winter winds hit the bourtzi, 243 00:27:45,360 --> 00:27:48,760 you can still hear the screams of the dying. 244 00:28:02,320 --> 00:28:05,400 When the ruling councillors of Venice 245 00:28:05,400 --> 00:28:08,480 heard the news about the loss of Methoni, 246 00:28:08,480 --> 00:28:10,520 they wept. 247 00:28:15,800 --> 00:28:20,680 Venice was losing her grip over the Mediterranean. 248 00:28:51,320 --> 00:28:54,400 Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd 249 00:28:54,400 --> 00:28:57,440 E-mail subtitling@bbc.co.uk 19570

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