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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:01,300 --> 00:00:06,860 At the northern end of Africa's Great Rift Valley lies an area unlike anywhere on Earth. 2 00:00:13,460 --> 00:00:21,300 This is the Danakil Desert in Ethiopia, perhaps the most inhospitable place known to man. 3 00:00:21,300 --> 00:00:28,700 Volcanoes and earthquakes continually rip the ground apart, spewing lava and noxious gases. 4 00:00:31,660 --> 00:00:36,660 And this is officially the hottest place on the surface of the planet. 5 00:00:42,220 --> 00:00:47,780 The idea that anyone would actually live here seems absurd. 6 00:00:47,780 --> 00:00:53,100 And yet there are people living here, as they have for thousands of years - 7 00:00:53,100 --> 00:00:57,060 a legendary nomadic warrior tribe called the Afar. 8 00:01:02,060 --> 00:01:06,780 I am on an incredible journey with a team of scientists. 9 00:01:06,780 --> 00:01:11,660 We hope to discover how people survive in this most extreme environment, 10 00:01:11,660 --> 00:01:14,620 how their lives and even their bodies 11 00:01:14,620 --> 00:01:16,780 have been shaped by the land around them. 12 00:01:16,780 --> 00:01:20,220 Look at you. You make it look completely effortless. 13 00:01:20,220 --> 00:01:25,180 You need to be on good form in this environment just to carry on. 14 00:01:25,180 --> 00:01:28,740 If you're off, you will die. Nice and simple. 15 00:01:28,740 --> 00:01:35,420 This is a community in the truest sense of the word, where survival depends on working together. 16 00:01:35,420 --> 00:01:38,340 I love this place. You just feel part of the family already. 17 00:01:39,380 --> 00:01:41,940 They called me sister today. 18 00:01:43,780 --> 00:01:47,380 We also want to delve beneath the surface of this extraordinary land 19 00:01:47,380 --> 00:01:51,140 to unlock the secrets of its tortured geology. 20 00:01:53,300 --> 00:01:58,580 It's a journey that has taken us into the fabric of the Earth, broken apart by earthquakes. 21 00:02:02,500 --> 00:02:05,740 Whoa! You are kidding me! 22 00:02:05,740 --> 00:02:10,380 To think this happened overnight. This is the stuff of Hollywood. 23 00:02:10,380 --> 00:02:19,060 The climax of our journey will take us into the raging volcanoes that are still shaping this land. 24 00:02:19,060 --> 00:02:20,980 Oh, my goodness! 25 00:02:20,980 --> 00:02:25,500 No wonder the Afar call this place "the gateway to hell". 26 00:03:01,380 --> 00:03:03,020 Our intrepid team of scientists 27 00:03:03,020 --> 00:03:07,540 and explorers has been in Ethiopia for two weeks, and we have endured 28 00:03:07,540 --> 00:03:13,580 a punishing trek just to get to the Danakil Depression, the hottest place on Earth. 29 00:03:17,500 --> 00:03:22,300 But we have been welcomed into the world of the incredible Afar people, 30 00:03:22,300 --> 00:03:24,500 who call this place home. 31 00:03:26,020 --> 00:03:28,780 SPEAKS IN AFAR That is very nice. 32 00:03:28,780 --> 00:03:32,700 Now, in this final phase of the expedition, 33 00:03:32,700 --> 00:03:35,820 we will be learning quite how tough and demanding 34 00:03:35,820 --> 00:03:38,740 living in this remote corner can be. 35 00:03:38,740 --> 00:03:44,820 The Afar can only live in this hostile environment because of their livestock. 36 00:03:44,820 --> 00:03:48,620 This is not normal, OK? It has got very, very bad diarrhoea. 37 00:03:48,620 --> 00:03:51,500 Obviously, if they get diarrhoea, 38 00:03:51,500 --> 00:03:53,260 that means they are losing water, 39 00:03:53,260 --> 00:03:56,540 and in an environment like that, that can be very, very serious. 40 00:03:56,540 --> 00:03:58,580 Oh, my golly. 41 00:03:58,580 --> 00:04:01,220 THEY TALK IN LOCAL LANGUAGE 42 00:04:01,220 --> 00:04:05,020 This afternoon has brought home the brutal truth of it. 43 00:04:05,020 --> 00:04:07,340 I have been in other parts of the world, 44 00:04:07,340 --> 00:04:10,620 and I have held malnourished, dying children. 45 00:04:10,620 --> 00:04:12,940 And it is a terrible, terrible thing. 46 00:04:15,900 --> 00:04:18,700 Even the day-to-day business of living here 47 00:04:18,700 --> 00:04:23,420 is proving harder than I expected, especially for the Afar women. 48 00:04:23,420 --> 00:04:25,980 These women don't have a moment 49 00:04:25,980 --> 00:04:30,820 to express themselves, to just get cross, to just throw something out. 50 00:04:30,820 --> 00:04:32,620 Maybe we are really spoilt, 51 00:04:32,620 --> 00:04:37,100 but we are allowed to shout and scream and rail against things. 52 00:04:37,100 --> 00:04:39,900 And... 53 00:04:39,900 --> 00:04:42,700 Oh, it makes me cross. 54 00:04:46,540 --> 00:04:50,780 Meanwhile, earth scientist Dougal will explore the final piece 55 00:04:50,780 --> 00:04:53,900 of the Danakil's incredible geological puzzle. 56 00:04:53,900 --> 00:04:57,140 This part of Africa is literally tearing itself apart. 57 00:04:57,140 --> 00:04:58,980 We have got steaming fissures, 58 00:04:58,980 --> 00:05:02,540 active volcanoes and bubbling lava lakes. 59 00:05:04,980 --> 00:05:08,220 Having mapped an earthquake fissure in 3D 60 00:05:08,220 --> 00:05:12,300 to show how fast the Earth's crust here is breaking apart... 61 00:05:12,300 --> 00:05:15,020 I am happy for you guys. This is good. This is good stuff. 62 00:05:15,020 --> 00:05:16,380 Wow! 63 00:05:16,380 --> 00:05:20,340 In one final climactic go-for-broke venture, 64 00:05:20,340 --> 00:05:21,980 Dougal wants to record 65 00:05:21,980 --> 00:05:24,700 how far that process has already gone... 66 00:05:26,340 --> 00:05:31,980 by making a 3D record of the world's largest lava lake 67 00:05:31,980 --> 00:05:34,100 from the inside. 68 00:05:34,100 --> 00:05:37,900 I want to go face-to-face with those volcanoes using the latest 3D technology. 69 00:05:45,860 --> 00:05:48,140 As we approach our final week at Kusru Wad, 70 00:05:48,140 --> 00:05:52,540 we have become close enough to the Afar people to be included 71 00:05:52,540 --> 00:05:54,820 in more and more of their unique culture. 72 00:05:54,820 --> 00:05:57,060 And that includes the local equivalent 73 00:05:57,060 --> 00:06:01,980 of a Sunday League kick about, the Afar's favourite ball game, Korso. 74 00:06:01,980 --> 00:06:05,900 Chief Galissa has invited Steve to play, 75 00:06:05,900 --> 00:06:09,860 but first, he is going to have to figure out the rules. 76 00:06:09,860 --> 00:06:12,300 It doesn't have any rules except to play. 77 00:06:12,300 --> 00:06:14,500 There's no rules. Right, OK. 78 00:06:14,500 --> 00:06:18,540 The more Steve finds out, the more this seems like a bad idea. 79 00:06:18,540 --> 00:06:23,580 So many people used to die when they played Korso, so they stopped playing it. OK! 80 00:06:23,580 --> 00:06:28,980 OK, so people died playing Korso? Yes, kill each other. 81 00:06:28,980 --> 00:06:35,620 Oh, right. OK, that's fine(!) They killed each other while playing the game? Yes. 82 00:06:35,620 --> 00:06:39,620 That is a bit of a worry, isn't it? Is that the object of the game, to kill the opposition? 83 00:06:39,620 --> 00:06:46,460 No, it is not. But some people who are playing, they play roughly, and so if one gets killed 84 00:06:46,460 --> 00:06:49,540 they will kill you next time. By shooting at you. So you... 85 00:06:49,540 --> 00:06:53,260 ..Shooting at you?! There's guns involved? 86 00:06:53,260 --> 00:06:56,060 No, guns are not involved, but if someone dies from you, 87 00:06:56,060 --> 00:06:59,420 what will you do to that guy? You won't leave him. You will kill him. 88 00:06:59,420 --> 00:07:01,900 The brothers... You could let them just score? 89 00:07:01,900 --> 00:07:04,980 No, you cannot. This is a serious business, Steve. 90 00:07:04,980 --> 00:07:06,940 But we're going to play gentle today? 91 00:07:06,940 --> 00:07:12,020 Yes, today will be gentle. Good. But leave the gun at the sideline. 92 00:07:12,020 --> 00:07:14,500 THEY SPEAK IN NATIVE TONGUE 93 00:07:14,500 --> 00:07:16,620 Yes, he will leave the gun. That's good. 94 00:07:16,620 --> 00:07:19,740 Maybe I'll get angry in the middle of the game. 95 00:07:21,260 --> 00:07:24,660 Then we will see him being fierce! Yeah. 96 00:07:24,660 --> 00:07:28,820 This is going to be quite a test, and not just for Steve. 97 00:07:28,820 --> 00:07:32,700 It's also a chance for Mukul to see how Steve's body stands up 98 00:07:32,700 --> 00:07:36,420 to running in the heat compared to the local Afar players. 99 00:07:36,420 --> 00:07:39,260 These capsules will allow him 100 00:07:39,260 --> 00:07:42,780 to track Steve's temperature, and cardiac monitors 101 00:07:42,780 --> 00:07:46,700 will record his heart rate during the game, 102 00:07:46,700 --> 00:07:49,260 with Galissa agreeing to be the local guinea pig. 103 00:07:52,660 --> 00:07:55,460 Two weeks ago, Mukul did the same test on Steve 104 00:07:55,460 --> 00:07:58,100 when he worked in the salt mines at Dallol. 105 00:07:59,100 --> 00:08:03,180 Then, he wasn't sure if the Afar's better heat resistance 106 00:08:03,180 --> 00:08:06,780 was inbred or simply the result of living here. 107 00:08:08,460 --> 00:08:10,380 Now, he is going to get the chance 108 00:08:10,380 --> 00:08:12,660 to see if Steve has become acclimatised, 109 00:08:12,660 --> 00:08:15,860 assuming he survives long enough to get a reading! 110 00:08:15,860 --> 00:08:18,820 I still have absolutely no idea 111 00:08:18,820 --> 00:08:23,060 what the idea is. I have seen a ball of some sort bounced on the floor. 112 00:08:23,060 --> 00:08:27,820 They seem to be splitting into two teams here, so... 113 00:08:27,820 --> 00:08:29,580 I don't know. 114 00:08:29,580 --> 00:08:32,740 I'll go with the flow to start off and we'll see where that takes me. 115 00:08:47,540 --> 00:08:53,100 I have no idea. You think, rugby, the breakdown is difficult to referee. This looks impossible. 116 00:08:53,100 --> 00:08:57,220 That's obviously why you don't have any rules. You don't need a ref. 117 00:08:58,780 --> 00:09:02,860 What Steve is making up for in lack of skill, he is doing with size. He can just pick them all up 118 00:09:02,860 --> 00:09:04,020 under his arm, can't he? 119 00:09:07,340 --> 00:09:11,500 Galissa is well into this. He is obviously a past master of this game. 120 00:09:19,660 --> 00:09:24,420 It's a valiant effort on Steve's part, but he soon develops a limp. 121 00:09:24,420 --> 00:09:27,660 He is coming back. Come on, hop-along, what have you done? 122 00:09:27,660 --> 00:09:29,580 Have you stood on something? 123 00:09:29,580 --> 00:09:32,500 No, I've just lost the sole of my foot. That's raw. 124 00:09:32,500 --> 00:09:35,380 I've just had to pull a flap off. Ow! 125 00:09:35,380 --> 00:09:38,860 In terms of rules, I couldn't work it out. 126 00:09:38,860 --> 00:09:41,340 Fortunately, his career-threatening injury 127 00:09:41,340 --> 00:09:44,940 gives Mukul the chance to check his vital statistics. 128 00:09:44,940 --> 00:09:46,700 Let's do your temperature. 129 00:09:46,700 --> 00:09:51,740 A rise of just three degrees is life-threatening. Four is usually fatal. 130 00:09:53,260 --> 00:09:57,540 Actually you're doing very well. This hasn't risen a huge amount. Cool. 37.9. 131 00:09:57,540 --> 00:10:01,580 Steve's core temperature has gone up only half a degree. 132 00:10:03,100 --> 00:10:05,620 Which is less than two weeks ago. 133 00:10:06,900 --> 00:10:14,300 You guys have only really done 15 minutes worth and have risen a whole degree to 38 degrees. 134 00:10:14,300 --> 00:10:19,420 It's clear Steve's body has got better at keeping his core temperature under control. 135 00:10:19,420 --> 00:10:22,540 But how much more is he having to sweat to do it? 136 00:10:22,540 --> 00:10:24,940 I'm going to step on the scales 137 00:10:24,940 --> 00:10:27,940 and then I'll bathe my feet, I think. 138 00:10:27,940 --> 00:10:29,660 Ooh... Ow. 139 00:10:29,660 --> 00:10:34,740 That is a bit sore, actually. You've dropped almost a kilo and a half. 140 00:10:34,740 --> 00:10:37,820 A kilo half, OK? A litre and a half in 20 minutes. 141 00:10:37,820 --> 00:10:40,020 Three pints in 20 minutes. 142 00:10:40,020 --> 00:10:44,020 That's amazing. That is pretty impressive. That needs replacing. 143 00:10:44,020 --> 00:10:48,140 Despite his improvement, this rate of fluid loss could be 144 00:10:48,140 --> 00:10:52,940 seriously damaging if Steve played the full hour of the Korso match. 145 00:10:52,940 --> 00:10:55,340 So how much has Galissa lost? 146 00:10:55,340 --> 00:10:58,060 You're coming in a featherweight 54 kilos. 147 00:10:58,060 --> 00:11:03,380 We can see Galissa isn't sweating anywhere near as much as you. He's not losing the same amount of fluid. 148 00:11:03,380 --> 00:11:08,980 And Steve's soft Western feet are no match for the locals either. 149 00:11:08,980 --> 00:11:14,100 20 minutes and look at you! You're feet look like they've been flayed! 150 00:11:14,100 --> 00:11:16,620 I know. I don't think 151 00:11:16,620 --> 00:11:19,620 I could keep up with their calloused feet I'm afraid. 152 00:11:19,620 --> 00:11:24,980 My little namby-pamby toes just weren't up to the grade, I'm afraid. 153 00:11:24,980 --> 00:11:28,500 So does Galissa rate the 20 minute cameo performance? 154 00:11:30,940 --> 00:11:33,780 He says, "I choose him before I see how he plays." 155 00:11:36,380 --> 00:11:40,900 He has seen many heat and many suns so your feet is new to this area. 156 00:11:42,220 --> 00:11:46,660 If you go bare foot, like this, your foot will be Afar foot. 157 00:11:46,660 --> 00:11:47,980 Maybe tomorrow! 158 00:11:49,700 --> 00:11:54,700 Thank you for everything this week. It has been fantastic. 159 00:11:56,340 --> 00:12:01,180 Thank you, Galissa. Thank you for inviting us to your village 160 00:12:01,180 --> 00:12:04,260 and for making us feel so welcome. 161 00:12:04,260 --> 00:12:07,540 Let's get you home. Do you need to be carried? 162 00:12:07,540 --> 00:12:08,580 Ready? 163 00:12:08,580 --> 00:12:10,820 Oh my God! 164 00:12:10,820 --> 00:12:13,500 While we take Steve away to be patched up, 165 00:12:13,500 --> 00:12:17,700 Dougal has begun the final, climactic leg of his geological mission - 166 00:12:17,700 --> 00:12:21,780 to map the volcano at Erte Ale. 167 00:12:24,220 --> 00:12:29,420 Erta Ale is three days away by car, but Dougal's found a way to get a preview 168 00:12:29,420 --> 00:12:33,020 of a phenomenon he's dreamed of exploring for years. 169 00:12:33,020 --> 00:12:38,620 Well, we've been lucky enough to get hold of a fixed wing aircraft for a short period of time. 170 00:12:38,620 --> 00:12:41,260 It will allow us to actually get up to assess 171 00:12:41,260 --> 00:12:45,740 the current state of Erte Ale and check that the lava lake's bubbling away 172 00:12:45,740 --> 00:12:49,380 and that the access will be good there. 173 00:12:52,380 --> 00:12:55,060 The tiny plane is thrown around in the super-heated air 174 00:12:55,060 --> 00:12:59,860 rising from the seemingly endless volcanic landscape. 175 00:13:05,180 --> 00:13:08,860 We can really start to see some of the volcanic centres 176 00:13:08,860 --> 00:13:12,860 coming through and that's about 40 or 50 kilometres south 177 00:13:12,860 --> 00:13:14,460 of the Erte Ale massif. 178 00:13:14,460 --> 00:13:19,900 Yeah, it's very, very big from up here. 179 00:13:19,900 --> 00:13:23,020 The Danakil lies on the Great Rift Valley, 180 00:13:23,020 --> 00:13:27,420 where the edges of two tectonic plates are slowly moving apart. 181 00:13:27,420 --> 00:13:30,300 This causes the crust to stretch and thin, 182 00:13:30,300 --> 00:13:34,140 allowing molten magma to force its way up to the surface. 183 00:13:36,620 --> 00:13:41,220 Just approaching the top of Erte Ale now. The plane is jumping all over the place. 184 00:13:41,220 --> 00:13:45,540 I can just about see... 185 00:13:45,540 --> 00:13:51,140 I can just see the crater of Erte Ale right in front of me now. 186 00:13:51,140 --> 00:13:55,620 Boy, is this good! The lava lake is bubbling away. 187 00:13:55,620 --> 00:13:59,860 It's low enough. We should be able to get access to the lava lake. 188 00:13:59,860 --> 00:14:02,500 Oh, wow. You can just see it steaming away there. 189 00:14:02,500 --> 00:14:05,540 Oh, this is phenomenal. Really good. 190 00:14:08,020 --> 00:14:11,860 How this lava lake is developing will help determine how thin the Earth's crust 191 00:14:11,860 --> 00:14:15,700 has become. What Dougal describes 192 00:14:15,700 --> 00:14:19,420 as a weeping wound in the broken skin of the Earth. 193 00:14:22,180 --> 00:14:29,780 That is Erte Ale volcano, the oldest known lava lake on the planet just there. 194 00:14:31,900 --> 00:14:35,380 All Dougal has to do now is get him, 195 00:14:35,380 --> 00:14:40,540 his team and the 3D mapping kit into that live crater. 196 00:14:46,220 --> 00:14:49,100 Back in the village, the day-to-day survival 197 00:14:49,100 --> 00:14:52,660 of the Afar people rests on their livestock 198 00:14:52,660 --> 00:14:56,860 and Steve's found a way to say thank you to the Afar for their hospitality. 199 00:14:56,860 --> 00:15:00,780 They have little or no veterinary care for their precious animals, 200 00:15:00,780 --> 00:15:03,420 so he's offered to run a camel clinic. 201 00:15:03,420 --> 00:15:05,740 Another day, another camel. 202 00:15:05,740 --> 00:15:07,300 Here we go. 203 00:15:07,300 --> 00:15:09,740 His first patient is a camel with a sore hump. 204 00:15:09,740 --> 00:15:12,540 Ssh! Ssh! Ssh! 205 00:15:12,540 --> 00:15:15,580 It looks like there's teeth marks here and there, basically. 206 00:15:15,580 --> 00:15:20,540 Yeah, it was bitten by a camel. Males have to compete for females. They often will bite each other. 207 00:15:20,540 --> 00:15:23,780 Big sharp canines as well. Built for fighting. 208 00:15:23,780 --> 00:15:26,820 And their mouths are not the cleanest of places. 209 00:15:26,820 --> 00:15:31,540 What we need to do is we need to clean this up and have a look at it and see. 210 00:15:31,540 --> 00:15:35,820 But something tells me the camel's not going to like this. 211 00:15:35,820 --> 00:15:38,420 We've got it muzzled. It can probably still head-butt me. 212 00:15:38,420 --> 00:15:42,060 But, em, they've tied its back legs, they've tied its front legs 213 00:15:42,060 --> 00:15:44,260 and we'll just take it nice and slowly. 214 00:15:53,860 --> 00:15:55,700 I think we've found the sore spot. 215 00:15:55,700 --> 00:16:01,500 For this infection to heal, the camel needs a shot of antibiotics and plenty of rest. 216 00:16:02,460 --> 00:16:07,340 One of the things they want to do is get this animal back to performing quickly. 217 00:16:07,340 --> 00:16:10,300 This is not a pet, this is an animal that has a job to do. 218 00:16:10,300 --> 00:16:14,140 Injuries are serious for working animals, 219 00:16:14,140 --> 00:16:18,540 but the major threat to these invaluable creatures is disease and bacteria. 220 00:16:18,540 --> 00:16:20,580 Where's our other camel? 221 00:16:20,580 --> 00:16:22,580 No, it's not normal. 222 00:16:22,580 --> 00:16:24,620 This is not normal? OK. 223 00:16:24,620 --> 00:16:29,500 He's obviously got very, very bad diarrhoea. Obviously, if they get diarrhoea, 224 00:16:29,500 --> 00:16:34,540 that means they're losing water and in an environment like that, that can be very, very serious. 225 00:16:34,540 --> 00:16:39,540 But treating animals in these conditions is no easy task for Steve. 226 00:16:39,540 --> 00:16:41,300 I had no idea what to expect. 227 00:16:41,300 --> 00:16:44,540 It was a bit of a leap into the deep end. Unfamiliar species. 228 00:16:44,540 --> 00:16:48,420 Then the lack of laboratory equipment and everything else. 229 00:16:48,420 --> 00:16:50,260 I don't know what bacteria are here. 230 00:16:50,260 --> 00:16:53,900 I can't do any blood cultures. I can't do anything here. 231 00:16:53,900 --> 00:16:57,820 So I've really realised that I'm reduced to the state of a layman almost. 232 00:16:57,820 --> 00:17:00,540 I can get little bits of information. 233 00:17:00,540 --> 00:17:04,860 The Afar here have never had access to Western medicine 234 00:17:04,860 --> 00:17:09,540 so have developed their own methods of traditional healing for their animals. 235 00:17:09,540 --> 00:17:13,500 Steve, this is Abdul, he is an Afar traditional healer. 236 00:17:13,500 --> 00:17:16,700 He is an elder around here. OK. 237 00:17:16,700 --> 00:17:20,740 So what would you treat this camel with? 238 00:17:20,740 --> 00:17:24,060 THEY TALK IN NATIVE TONGUE 239 00:17:24,060 --> 00:17:29,260 There's a tree, he says. I will milk a camel, mix it together and I'll put it in his mouth. 240 00:17:29,260 --> 00:17:31,420 The bad things will go. 241 00:17:31,420 --> 00:17:35,260 But as well as plants, the traditional healer uses some stranger treatments, 242 00:17:35,260 --> 00:17:38,180 including cutting their ears. 243 00:17:38,180 --> 00:17:41,940 He says, if I see him crazy running round, 244 00:17:41,940 --> 00:17:45,780 they cut a small amount of the ear. And what does that do? 245 00:17:50,620 --> 00:17:52,580 He becomes a little bit quiet 246 00:17:52,580 --> 00:17:56,220 and knows that something is with him. 247 00:17:56,220 --> 00:17:58,220 Ah! OK. OK, that's interesting. 248 00:17:58,220 --> 00:18:03,460 That's an interesting way forward. It doesn't surprise me that there are traditional treatments. 249 00:18:03,460 --> 00:18:07,940 What's interesting is it seems to be a combination of some things that could prove to be very useful 250 00:18:07,940 --> 00:18:12,660 like the plants and seed remedies. But coupled with that, you do get these strange... 251 00:18:12,660 --> 00:18:15,780 You know, the cutting of the ear and this sort of thing - don't have 252 00:18:15,780 --> 00:18:20,340 any therapeutic benefit at all, but it's not for me to judge that here. 253 00:18:20,340 --> 00:18:26,900 But it's not just animals that are treated with traditional methods like cutting. 254 00:18:26,900 --> 00:18:31,580 Team doctor Mukul and I have found they're also used on people. 255 00:18:34,100 --> 00:18:37,740 Will you show me Aisha's leg? Show me what's the matter with it. 256 00:18:37,740 --> 00:18:42,340 We've been joined by Australian nurse Valerie Browning, 257 00:18:42,340 --> 00:18:44,700 who's lived and worked with the Afar people 258 00:18:44,700 --> 00:18:48,900 for 20 years and conducts regular clinics of her own. 259 00:18:51,860 --> 00:18:53,380 Big scars. What...? 260 00:18:57,740 --> 00:18:59,900 She said she had a huge infection here 261 00:18:59,900 --> 00:19:05,660 and this is burning and that helped to get all the pus out. 262 00:19:05,660 --> 00:19:08,860 By burning or cutting the skin, 263 00:19:08,860 --> 00:19:11,460 some Afar believe they destroy what they think 264 00:19:11,460 --> 00:19:17,500 is the bad blood that causes illness. Though not everyone here is convinced. 265 00:19:17,500 --> 00:19:19,500 Did any of these help, do you think? 266 00:19:19,500 --> 00:19:23,820 THEY TALK IN NATIVE TONGUE 267 00:19:23,820 --> 00:19:28,380 He said, "What help is this?" He said, "No, it didn't help her at all." He's quite angry. 268 00:19:35,500 --> 00:19:40,860 He said that this is nonsense. Just total nonsense. It can only make her sicker. 269 00:19:40,860 --> 00:19:44,100 As well as dealing with these ancient traditions, 270 00:19:44,100 --> 00:19:47,540 Valerie and her health workers have an uphill battle 271 00:19:47,540 --> 00:19:50,140 to diagnose and treat patients like Aisha. 272 00:19:50,140 --> 00:19:55,180 I mean, is there anything obvious that you would know about that these symptoms would match? 273 00:19:55,180 --> 00:20:00,380 The only thing I've come across, I remember reading about, a condition called brucellosis. 274 00:20:00,380 --> 00:20:04,380 And it's linked to unpasteurised milk. 275 00:20:04,380 --> 00:20:07,820 Brucellosis is a disease that can infect the central nervous system 276 00:20:07,820 --> 00:20:11,020 and is caught from bacteria in animal's milk. 277 00:20:11,020 --> 00:20:12,300 It's rife in this region 278 00:20:12,300 --> 00:20:18,340 and Steve has found several cases of it in the goats in Kusru Wad. 279 00:20:18,340 --> 00:20:22,100 Brucellosis would be considered a very serious disease. 280 00:20:22,100 --> 00:20:28,020 We are told about a lot of this stuff in the UK because it is of historical importance. 281 00:20:28,020 --> 00:20:31,900 But out here, it's still going on on a day-to-day basis. 282 00:20:31,900 --> 00:20:36,260 And you know, some of these diseases could have a real impact on people's lives. 283 00:20:36,260 --> 00:20:43,180 The Afars' precarious existence relies entirely on the milk and meat they get from their animals. 284 00:20:43,180 --> 00:20:48,820 Yet these same animals are passing life-threatening diseases back to them. 285 00:20:48,820 --> 00:20:53,260 You need to be on good form in this environment just to carry on. 286 00:20:53,260 --> 00:20:55,300 If you're off, 287 00:20:55,300 --> 00:20:59,620 you can't walk, you can't collect water, you can't herd you animals. 288 00:20:59,620 --> 00:21:02,100 You will die. Nice and simple. 289 00:21:13,540 --> 00:21:19,300 As our last week progresses, I'm slowly building up a picture of the Afar's existence. 290 00:21:19,300 --> 00:21:25,180 It's the women I feel closest to, yet I still don't feel like I am really able to talk to them. 291 00:21:25,180 --> 00:21:31,180 It's made more difficult by the fact that our translators are all male. 292 00:21:31,180 --> 00:21:35,020 But now we have Valerie with us, I'm hoping that may change. 293 00:21:36,660 --> 00:21:38,980 Hi. Let's go.. OK. 294 00:21:38,980 --> 00:21:43,300 It's such a pleasure to be here with somebody like you who, you know... 295 00:21:43,300 --> 00:21:47,620 you're a perfect bridge between the two sides - me and them. 296 00:21:47,620 --> 00:21:51,380 Married to an Afar elder, Valerie has dedicated herself 297 00:21:51,380 --> 00:21:55,620 to helping the people get access to health and education. 298 00:21:55,620 --> 00:22:00,220 And now she's able to get me closer to the heart of this very alien culture. 299 00:22:00,220 --> 00:22:05,500 Our idea of kind of privacy and personal space just goes completely out of the window. 300 00:22:05,500 --> 00:22:09,500 In Afar society, there is no private space. I mean, I don't even have my own bed. 301 00:22:09,500 --> 00:22:11,460 I don't even have my own comb. 302 00:22:11,460 --> 00:22:12,620 Really? Not possible. 303 00:22:15,180 --> 00:22:18,100 One of the women in the village is expecting a baby 304 00:22:18,100 --> 00:22:24,340 and Valerie is going to help me find out just how they cope with pregnancy and childbirth. 305 00:22:24,340 --> 00:22:29,580 A lot of women are very excited at this time. Is she excited about it? 306 00:22:29,580 --> 00:22:32,260 Is this something that she's really looking forward to? 307 00:22:36,620 --> 00:22:40,820 She said, "Yes, I'm happy." I asked her did she want a boy or a girl. 308 00:22:40,820 --> 00:22:43,060 She said, "Well, 309 00:22:43,060 --> 00:22:47,100 "the girls are good, the boys are good." Will she be getting nervous? 310 00:22:47,100 --> 00:22:51,060 Is there that sort of concept of fear? 311 00:22:56,540 --> 00:22:58,700 She says, "No, I don't have any fear." 312 00:22:58,700 --> 00:23:06,100 She's incredibly calm, but I can't help wondering how she'll cope with little to no medical back-up. 313 00:23:06,100 --> 00:23:12,940 With the delivery, are there any cultural practices particular to the Afar that go on? 314 00:23:12,940 --> 00:23:15,660 In terms of delivery, there are. 315 00:23:15,660 --> 00:23:23,140 They believe that the bladder and the uterus is joining, so the mother in labour shouldn't have 316 00:23:23,140 --> 00:23:28,980 any food or drink. Traditionally, they don't breast feed for 72 hours. 317 00:23:33,900 --> 00:23:37,780 My initial feeling is completely polarised. You know, 318 00:23:37,780 --> 00:23:44,300 on the one hand, there is this extraordinary feeling of warmth and support, and I can't imagine 319 00:23:44,300 --> 00:23:47,740 a kind of lovelier way to bring a child into the world. 320 00:23:47,740 --> 00:23:54,820 But, equally, that woman that we were sitting there with, she could be dead next week. 321 00:23:54,820 --> 00:23:57,500 These women don't know any different. 322 00:23:57,500 --> 00:24:00,740 This is what generations of women have gone through 323 00:24:00,740 --> 00:24:03,780 when they're expecting a child, so they have just got to 324 00:24:03,780 --> 00:24:06,780 bite onto that cloth and grin and bear it. 325 00:24:14,180 --> 00:24:16,980 Southeast of us, on the road to the Erte Ale volcano, 326 00:24:16,980 --> 00:24:19,900 the science team have stayed their first night 327 00:24:19,900 --> 00:24:23,700 on the shores of one of Ethiopia's great salt lakes - 328 00:24:23,700 --> 00:24:24,900 Afdera. 329 00:24:26,420 --> 00:24:29,740 This was once part of a massive inland sea, 330 00:24:29,740 --> 00:24:35,180 now it's a highly saline lake, 170 metres below sea level 331 00:24:35,180 --> 00:24:37,580 and still sinking. 332 00:24:37,580 --> 00:24:41,740 The water feeding into the lake is super-heated 333 00:24:41,740 --> 00:24:44,860 and shows how close they're getting to the volcanic magma 334 00:24:44,860 --> 00:24:47,380 beneath the Earth's surface. 335 00:24:51,180 --> 00:24:53,780 But there's no time to stop and explore 336 00:24:53,780 --> 00:24:55,860 and the team is soon on the road again. 337 00:24:55,860 --> 00:24:58,460 The increasingly rough terrain 338 00:24:58,460 --> 00:25:00,940 means it will take them another two days 339 00:25:00,940 --> 00:25:03,860 of hard driving to get to the base of the crater. 340 00:25:10,060 --> 00:25:16,780 Back in Kusru Wad, I'm getting a sense of how demanding life for a woman here can be. 341 00:25:16,780 --> 00:25:21,620 I want to know what they think about how they're treated in this very male-dominated society. 342 00:25:21,620 --> 00:25:25,220 So far, they've been reluctant to speak openly. 343 00:25:25,220 --> 00:25:31,420 Now, with the men out of sight, Galissa's wife Myram has agreed to talk to me. But we haven't got long. 344 00:25:31,420 --> 00:25:36,500 I know that you have talked about 345 00:25:36,500 --> 00:25:42,460 sometimes women getting very stressed and worried about marriage, 346 00:25:42,460 --> 00:25:45,900 because they go into it with so little knowledge. 347 00:25:45,900 --> 00:25:49,180 Did Myram's mother explain 348 00:25:49,180 --> 00:25:51,780 anything to her about... 349 00:25:51,780 --> 00:25:57,300 about what it was like to be a wife and the prospect of having sex for the first time? 350 00:25:57,300 --> 00:26:00,740 THEY SPEAK IN NATIVE TONGUE 351 00:26:01,740 --> 00:26:05,140 She said, "It's the same for everybody in the world." She said, 352 00:26:05,140 --> 00:26:08,100 "The man's body is the thing that makes you scared." Yeah. 353 00:26:08,100 --> 00:26:12,900 Yeah. She said, "You're very frightened, you can't be anything else." 354 00:26:12,900 --> 00:26:17,500 Talking about sex is a taboo here and, within a matter of minutes, 355 00:26:17,500 --> 00:26:21,140 the men have got wind of our conversation. 356 00:26:29,660 --> 00:26:32,060 It would be great if these men weren't here. 357 00:26:38,220 --> 00:26:40,580 They're standing here quite deliberately. 358 00:26:40,580 --> 00:26:42,100 Yeah. 359 00:26:47,220 --> 00:26:53,900 I'm so close to finding out how these women really feel, but the men are going nowhere. 360 00:26:53,900 --> 00:26:55,980 Shall we go inside, would that be better? 361 00:27:04,140 --> 00:27:08,340 They say these men will try and listen to every word. 362 00:27:08,340 --> 00:27:09,900 I know. 363 00:27:09,900 --> 00:27:13,060 I know. And it's going to completely compromise her. 364 00:27:13,060 --> 00:27:14,940 I don't want to do that. 365 00:27:14,940 --> 00:27:20,500 The tension can be cut with a knife and I have no choice but to give up, 366 00:27:20,500 --> 00:27:23,860 for fear of compromising Myram's position within the community. 367 00:27:23,860 --> 00:27:29,300 But this deliberate intimidation has really got under my skin. 368 00:27:29,300 --> 00:27:32,780 There's men everywhere just listening in... "Don't you dare. 369 00:27:32,780 --> 00:27:35,100 "Don't you dare give away our secrets." 370 00:27:35,660 --> 00:27:38,180 These women don't have a moment 371 00:27:38,180 --> 00:27:43,460 to express themselves, to just get cross, to just throw something out. 372 00:27:43,460 --> 00:27:47,300 Maybe we're really spoilt but, you know, we're allowed to shout 373 00:27:47,300 --> 00:27:49,860 and scream and rail against things, and... 374 00:27:49,860 --> 00:27:51,300 and... 375 00:27:52,620 --> 00:27:54,220 Oh, it makes me cross. 376 00:28:02,900 --> 00:28:07,980 Just incredible women, and it would have been really nice 377 00:28:07,980 --> 00:28:11,740 to be able to leave here 378 00:28:11,740 --> 00:28:15,380 feeling that we'd been able to properly represent them. 379 00:28:19,660 --> 00:28:21,580 It's so frustrating. 380 00:28:24,780 --> 00:28:28,980 As a Western woman, I'm finding it very hard to accept 381 00:28:28,980 --> 00:28:33,620 how little control Afar women have over their daily lives. 382 00:28:33,620 --> 00:28:37,700 I'd like to do more to at least give them a voice, 383 00:28:37,700 --> 00:28:41,340 but my concerns are suddenly overshadowed by events 384 00:28:41,340 --> 00:28:44,060 elsewhere in the village. 385 00:28:44,060 --> 00:28:46,140 CHILDREN CRY 386 00:28:46,140 --> 00:28:50,060 News that Mukul is conducting 387 00:28:50,060 --> 00:28:53,460 daily health clinics has spread far and fast. 388 00:28:53,460 --> 00:28:57,300 And while he struggles to cope with the sudden demand, 389 00:28:57,300 --> 00:29:03,100 a family arrives, having walked more than five hours in the heat, 390 00:29:03,100 --> 00:29:06,540 hoping that he will be able save their malnourished child. 391 00:29:09,300 --> 00:29:12,820 So when this lad does any running around, does he get very short of breath? 392 00:29:18,860 --> 00:29:23,300 He said, "If he goes from here to the door, he'll fall over. He can't do it." 393 00:29:23,300 --> 00:29:26,140 He's got a very loud heart murmur.. 394 00:29:26,140 --> 00:29:28,700 Has he? Oh, my golly. 395 00:29:28,700 --> 00:29:33,740 It's not Syed's diet that's the problem. It's his heart. 396 00:29:33,740 --> 00:29:39,220 His heart is not working as efficiently as it might to pump the blood around. 397 00:29:39,220 --> 00:29:42,740 And he's working hard all the time, it's like jogging all the time. 398 00:29:42,740 --> 00:29:49,500 Mukul is distraught that with only his limited field kit, there's no way he's able to treat Syed. 399 00:29:49,500 --> 00:29:52,140 This afternoon has brought home the brutal truth of it. 400 00:29:54,300 --> 00:29:57,540 What must that be like for a parent 401 00:29:57,540 --> 00:30:01,740 to see your child dying and not be able to do anything about it? 402 00:30:01,740 --> 00:30:03,660 It's a terrible, terrible thing. 403 00:30:03,660 --> 00:30:11,500 The normal reality of life in the Danakil is that death is often not very far away. 404 00:30:15,860 --> 00:30:19,740 Except for Syed this week is different. 405 00:30:19,740 --> 00:30:22,500 Because Valerie is here and has transport, 406 00:30:22,500 --> 00:30:28,420 she will be able to take him to the nearest specialist hospital, more than 500 kilometres away. 407 00:30:28,420 --> 00:30:31,540 And there's even room for Ayisha. 408 00:30:31,540 --> 00:30:35,860 She's taking with her Ayisha the little girl who has the infection 409 00:30:35,860 --> 00:30:39,020 in her hip and Syed the toddler with the hole in the heart. 410 00:30:39,020 --> 00:30:42,900 For the very first time they're going to be leaving the village, with their families, 411 00:30:42,900 --> 00:30:45,580 to get the treatment that hopefully will save their lives. 412 00:30:45,580 --> 00:30:47,540 We're going to go and pick them up. 413 00:30:47,540 --> 00:30:54,980 'This is an incredible opportunity for these children, one never usually available to the Afar.' 414 00:30:54,980 --> 00:30:59,060 But while Ayisha and her family are excited, the parents of Syed, 415 00:30:59,060 --> 00:31:02,660 the boy with heart problem, are having second thoughts. 416 00:31:05,300 --> 00:31:09,180 Syed's parents have never left their village and are so 417 00:31:09,180 --> 00:31:12,420 afraid of the outside world that they're not sure they can go. 418 00:31:12,420 --> 00:31:16,460 A decision that could cost their son his life. 419 00:31:19,580 --> 00:31:25,380 But in Afar culture there is a strict social structure, where the elders make the decisions. 420 00:31:27,380 --> 00:31:32,020 She was humming and ha-ing and he turned to her and said, I'm ordering you to go. 421 00:31:32,020 --> 00:31:35,060 Right. This is the way they do it in Afar culture. Right. 422 00:31:35,060 --> 00:31:39,460 So does this mean now that she and the child will come with you today? 423 00:31:39,460 --> 00:31:40,980 Yeah. 424 00:31:47,500 --> 00:31:54,140 In a way, it's the thing that we have so completely lost in the West which is that absolute respect 425 00:31:54,140 --> 00:31:59,780 for the elder members of the community, whether you're directly related to them or not. 426 00:31:59,780 --> 00:32:04,260 If that elder of the village speaks, you have to do what they say 427 00:32:04,260 --> 00:32:09,020 unquestioningly and that's what happened. 428 00:32:09,020 --> 00:32:12,740 With the decision made, the parents have just a couple of minutes 429 00:32:12,740 --> 00:32:15,740 to gather their belongings and say their goodbyes. 430 00:32:22,180 --> 00:32:25,460 OK, let's go, we've got to fly. We've got to reach this loggia. 431 00:32:25,460 --> 00:32:29,180 For Syed and his parents it's a journey into the unknown 432 00:32:29,180 --> 00:32:32,100 but hopefully one that will save his life. 433 00:32:32,100 --> 00:32:33,660 I'll see you. Goodbye. 434 00:32:33,660 --> 00:32:37,380 'This has really highlighted the dilemma of our contact with the Afar. 435 00:32:37,380 --> 00:32:40,980 'How far should we get involved? 436 00:32:40,980 --> 00:32:44,900 'Many of the traditions I've witnessed look unfair 437 00:32:44,900 --> 00:32:47,460 'and hard on the women especially, 438 00:32:47,460 --> 00:32:50,980 'but the strict social order has a proven value. 439 00:32:50,980 --> 00:32:52,780 'It helps them to survive.' 440 00:32:55,460 --> 00:33:01,260 That little boy would certainly die if they hadn't made that decision and sent him away from the village. 441 00:33:15,260 --> 00:33:16,980 Bye-bye, Fatima. 442 00:33:16,980 --> 00:33:23,580 Having said my goodbyes to Valerie and the kids, it's time for all of us to take our leave of Kusru Wad. 443 00:33:23,580 --> 00:33:27,460 Because we're heading off to join Dougal for the last great stage of 444 00:33:27,460 --> 00:33:30,740 his science mission at the Erte Ale volcano... 445 00:33:33,660 --> 00:33:37,980 ..where we will help him create the first-ever 3D model 446 00:33:37,980 --> 00:33:40,140 of the inside of the crater, 447 00:33:40,140 --> 00:33:42,300 so that scientists the world over 448 00:33:42,300 --> 00:33:46,100 understand how the Earth's crust here is breaking apart. 449 00:33:54,700 --> 00:33:58,380 The next morning, we're off at first light. 450 00:33:58,380 --> 00:34:01,220 We're aiming to meet up with the science team 451 00:34:01,220 --> 00:34:05,340 who've spent two days driving up from the salt lake at Afdera. 452 00:34:09,340 --> 00:34:16,780 And after hours squashed into hot sweaty 4x4s, the whole team is together again at last. 453 00:34:21,140 --> 00:34:23,860 But our fun doesn't last long. 454 00:34:23,860 --> 00:34:26,940 Erte Ale base camp is still a long way off. 455 00:34:26,940 --> 00:34:30,100 Will we miss the dust, the sandstorms and the whirlwinds? 456 00:34:30,100 --> 00:34:34,300 I doubt it. We're heading that way to the base of Erte Ale. 457 00:34:34,300 --> 00:34:37,060 There we'll be camping on lava, a very different thing. 458 00:34:37,060 --> 00:34:39,100 It's the final leg of our adventure. 459 00:34:44,020 --> 00:34:48,580 Rumbling along at ten kilometres an hour over the unrelenting lava 460 00:34:48,580 --> 00:34:53,740 fields, it takes two bone-shaking hours to reach base camp. 461 00:34:58,140 --> 00:35:02,980 We're now at the base camp for Erte Ale and the whole team are back together. 462 00:35:02,980 --> 00:35:06,260 You can see them in the background all catching up. "What have you been up to? 463 00:35:06,260 --> 00:35:08,980 And just over there is our goal. 464 00:35:08,980 --> 00:35:12,060 There is Erte Ale, smoking away and tomorrow morning, 465 00:35:12,060 --> 00:35:15,940 we're going to leave before the sun comes up, walk through the grass. 466 00:35:15,940 --> 00:35:21,340 Grass! There's a novelty! Past the trees, my goodness, all these things we haven't seen for ten days. 467 00:35:21,340 --> 00:35:25,220 And across the lava flow, up to the summit where we will spend a couple 468 00:35:25,220 --> 00:35:31,980 of nights, but for the moment it's just really nice being down here, no dust and a wonderful view. 469 00:35:32,940 --> 00:35:36,980 This is great, I love lava, me! 470 00:35:36,980 --> 00:35:42,100 I've just got so sick of the dust and the dirt down in the river bed, just a change of scene. 471 00:35:42,100 --> 00:35:45,780 I'm sure I'll grow to hate it just as much 472 00:35:45,780 --> 00:35:51,300 over the next few days, because it's a bit unsteady underfoot and my feet still need a bit of time to recover. 473 00:35:51,300 --> 00:35:58,300 'For Dougal, waiting until tomorrow to start the ascent is almost more than he can bear.' 474 00:35:58,300 --> 00:36:02,860 I'm raring to go. I'm off on the camel, I'm just going to get off on one about midnight, 475 00:36:02,860 --> 00:36:07,260 I'll sneak around, make sure everyone's asleep and I'll see you guys up there. 476 00:36:08,260 --> 00:36:14,100 If Dougal can be restrained, tomorrow should be a big day for all of us. 477 00:36:33,740 --> 00:36:37,900 It's a pre-dawn start again, as we are anxious to complete 478 00:36:37,900 --> 00:36:43,140 the 18-kilometre trek before the scorching midday sun takes its toll. 479 00:36:51,300 --> 00:36:53,740 The sun's just come up over the lava here 480 00:36:53,740 --> 00:36:56,580 and we're starting to get our first proper views 481 00:36:56,580 --> 00:36:58,540 of this astonishing landscape. 482 00:36:58,540 --> 00:37:02,660 It's absolutely beautiful and lovely to be walking again. 483 00:37:07,700 --> 00:37:11,580 As we approach the summit, we find ourselves surrounded by 484 00:37:11,580 --> 00:37:16,660 clearer and clearer evidence of the volcanic turmoil beneath our feet. 485 00:37:16,660 --> 00:37:18,740 You think you've got spot problems, 486 00:37:18,740 --> 00:37:21,220 but all away along the top of this lava skin, 487 00:37:21,220 --> 00:37:24,700 you can see these big, rippled-up spot-like features. 488 00:37:24,700 --> 00:37:27,420 You've got broken crusts of the skin of the lava, 489 00:37:27,420 --> 00:37:30,060 these are literally the zits of the lava world. 490 00:37:30,060 --> 00:37:34,740 All away along this top surface, you've got these little pock-marks pushing their way through. 491 00:37:34,740 --> 00:37:37,500 This is over-pressured lava, pushing up through the skin, 492 00:37:37,500 --> 00:37:40,380 just like a spot on the top on the skin surface of the lava. 493 00:37:40,380 --> 00:37:45,180 And it erupts and pours a little bit of lava out and that's your spot gone. 494 00:37:49,620 --> 00:37:54,100 Here we've found a big, solid block that's actually broken through the crust of this lava. 495 00:37:54,100 --> 00:37:56,460 There's an even bigger one behind me there. 496 00:37:56,460 --> 00:37:58,580 These are volcanic bombs. 497 00:37:58,580 --> 00:38:01,620 That means there's been an explosive eruption on the volcano. 498 00:38:01,620 --> 00:38:05,260 So occasionally, when the volcanic system gets bunged up, it's almost 499 00:38:05,260 --> 00:38:08,380 like your nose is getting bunged up, your sinuses. 500 00:38:08,380 --> 00:38:13,660 And eventually it breaks through, you erupt and you blow stuff out the top of the volcano. 501 00:38:13,660 --> 00:38:17,100 These things will have been ejected high up into the sky 502 00:38:17,100 --> 00:38:19,780 and will have fallen down to the ground with a bang. 503 00:38:24,140 --> 00:38:30,420 At last we find ourselves on the home straight to the summit of Erte Ale. 504 00:38:30,420 --> 00:38:36,380 After weeks of illness, hardship and strain, baking under the Ethiopian sun, 505 00:38:36,380 --> 00:38:40,820 we've finally reached the climax of our science mission. 506 00:38:54,940 --> 00:38:58,700 It's huge. I feel like I've just come to another planet. 507 00:38:58,700 --> 00:39:00,620 It's like a total moonscape. 508 00:39:00,620 --> 00:39:03,740 You can almost imagine a T-rex hoving into view, 509 00:39:03,740 --> 00:39:05,860 or a pteradactyl swooping down. 510 00:39:05,860 --> 00:39:08,620 This is the land that time forgot. 511 00:39:08,620 --> 00:39:12,860 Wow. This whole rim round the side must be the outer rim of the volcano. 512 00:39:12,860 --> 00:39:17,340 Right. And this stuff in the middle has sort of collapsed down. 513 00:39:17,340 --> 00:39:23,380 When the volcano built up and erupted for the first time, the centre bit would have collapsed. 514 00:39:23,380 --> 00:39:26,260 There are two pits inside the great outer crater. 515 00:39:26,260 --> 00:39:32,500 The north pit is constantly belching clouds of poisonous gas and is what gives this place its name. 516 00:39:32,500 --> 00:39:35,220 Erte Ale means smoking mountain. 517 00:39:37,580 --> 00:39:40,700 But we're heading for the south crater. 518 00:39:40,700 --> 00:39:46,820 It has an even deeper central crater, with a more sinister reputation. 519 00:39:46,820 --> 00:39:51,020 The Afar people believe it to be the gateway to hell. 520 00:39:51,020 --> 00:39:54,740 Isn't it madness to be going up to a live volcano? 521 00:39:54,740 --> 00:39:58,420 Surely this is the thing that people flee from? 522 00:39:58,420 --> 00:40:02,420 Yeah. In some cases, we are a little bit crazy going to them, 523 00:40:02,420 --> 00:40:06,820 but this is the type of volcano that you can actually get some access to. 524 00:40:06,820 --> 00:40:09,940 Crazy or not, it is possible to reach the inner rim, 525 00:40:09,940 --> 00:40:13,980 the perfect location to scan the whole of the inside of the crater. 526 00:40:13,980 --> 00:40:19,020 We just have to cross a sea of cooled lava to get there. 527 00:40:19,020 --> 00:40:21,900 The key is to be organised and to plan ahead and to make sure 528 00:40:21,900 --> 00:40:24,340 that everything that happens is predetermined 529 00:40:24,340 --> 00:40:27,060 and that things are not happening quickly and out of control. 530 00:40:27,060 --> 00:40:28,900 Mack and Andy have made this route safe. 531 00:40:28,900 --> 00:40:30,900 They've fixed the rope down to the bottom. 532 00:40:30,900 --> 00:40:34,820 Now they have to prospect a route across the lava, because it's quite soft on the surface. 533 00:40:34,820 --> 00:40:39,660 Finding the right route is the key to making this safe. 534 00:40:39,660 --> 00:40:41,540 This isn't solid rock. 535 00:40:41,540 --> 00:40:47,860 Beneath our feet lava flows have left giant hollow caverns lined with jagged rocks. 536 00:40:47,860 --> 00:40:53,100 We're about to walk across the fragile roofs of these lava tubes, but with a route marked out, 537 00:40:53,100 --> 00:40:58,140 we tentatively make our way down to the inner rim. 538 00:41:02,780 --> 00:41:07,580 As we step gingerly on to the lava, I'm constantly reminded 539 00:41:07,580 --> 00:41:12,580 of how fragile this surface is by the sound of crunching feet. 540 00:41:12,580 --> 00:41:19,060 But soon all I can hear is what sounds like waves on a beach. There's the lower ledge. 541 00:41:21,340 --> 00:41:23,580 Oh, my God, look at that. 542 00:41:23,580 --> 00:41:25,100 Oh, my God. 543 00:41:30,660 --> 00:41:32,180 Oh, my goodness. 544 00:41:38,780 --> 00:41:44,700 'What sounds like the roar of an ocean is in fact liquid rock.' 545 00:41:44,700 --> 00:41:48,580 Fantastic. Listen to that noise. There's a bubble! Look at that! 546 00:41:57,260 --> 00:42:00,140 That's liquid rock. 547 00:42:00,140 --> 00:42:04,340 That's what I'm really struggling to get my head round. That is liquid rock. 548 00:42:04,340 --> 00:42:07,660 It's exactly the same as what we're standing on. Now it's quite hard, 549 00:42:07,660 --> 00:42:12,740 but there it's molten rock. Yeah. You can see how people have mythologies around volcanoes. 550 00:42:12,740 --> 00:42:14,580 That is just not of this world. 551 00:42:14,580 --> 00:42:17,340 That is insane. Oh my word. Oh! Ooh! 552 00:42:17,340 --> 00:42:19,500 That's hot. 553 00:42:19,500 --> 00:42:21,780 And the stink of it as well. 554 00:42:21,780 --> 00:42:25,980 Is anyone else... Is it me just imagining it, or do your feet feel really hot? 555 00:42:25,980 --> 00:42:27,940 Yeah, yeah. 556 00:42:27,940 --> 00:42:30,700 You can feel the glow on your face. 557 00:42:30,700 --> 00:42:35,620 How do you know this isn't going to blow? Well, I don't actually. 558 00:42:44,300 --> 00:42:46,180 I can't believe how active it is. 559 00:42:46,180 --> 00:42:49,540 Funnily enough it started bubbling just as we walked up, almost as 560 00:42:49,540 --> 00:42:52,900 though it could sense us coming. It's a bit like a pressure release. 561 00:42:52,900 --> 00:42:57,660 you open the top slightly on a fizzy pop bottle and the gas 562 00:42:57,660 --> 00:43:01,700 starts to come out and that's what's happening here, down in the crater. 563 00:43:01,700 --> 00:43:04,380 'It's not very often you see something 564 00:43:04,380 --> 00:43:07,140 'that literally takes your breath away. 565 00:43:07,140 --> 00:43:11,660 'But I'm completely overcome by the might of this natural wonder.' 566 00:43:11,660 --> 00:43:13,580 I think probably all of us 567 00:43:13,580 --> 00:43:18,100 understood why the Afar think that this is the gateway to hell. 568 00:43:18,100 --> 00:43:22,780 Because that's the only imagery that I can think of that's 569 00:43:22,780 --> 00:43:26,540 anything like this, those sort of storybook pictures of hell. 570 00:43:26,540 --> 00:43:28,700 That is wicked. That is absolutely brilliant. 571 00:43:28,700 --> 00:43:32,340 I'm going home and painting my bedroom black and orange. 572 00:43:32,340 --> 00:43:34,380 The 12-year-boy in me comes out. 573 00:43:34,380 --> 00:43:37,220 I want to stick things in it and see if it burns. 574 00:43:40,500 --> 00:43:45,420 We've planned a two-stage assault on the active part of the lava lake. 575 00:43:45,420 --> 00:43:49,100 First the climbing team will rig a steel cable over the pit... 576 00:43:49,100 --> 00:43:50,940 Mark, do you read? 577 00:43:50,940 --> 00:43:53,340 ..150 metres across. 578 00:43:55,900 --> 00:43:59,540 This will then be used to lower the heavy test equipment 579 00:43:59,540 --> 00:44:01,500 on to the cooled crater floor. 580 00:44:01,500 --> 00:44:05,460 Meanwhile Dougal will abseil down on to the lower shelf 581 00:44:05,460 --> 00:44:09,060 where hopefully he'll be able to get a decent scan. 582 00:44:10,060 --> 00:44:15,460 But we're overlooking how long all this is going to take. 583 00:44:15,460 --> 00:44:19,500 In all the excitement of getting here, we neglected to make camp 584 00:44:19,500 --> 00:44:25,900 and now, with the sun high in the sky, the welfare of the team must take priority over the science. 585 00:44:25,900 --> 00:44:30,220 We should have nailed this early-doors, but everyone was, "Ooh," excited about the volcano. 586 00:44:30,220 --> 00:44:35,300 So temperatures are slightly rising along with the ambient temperature. 587 00:44:35,300 --> 00:44:39,340 But I think we're getting there now. I'll go and chill out in the shade. 588 00:44:39,980 --> 00:44:42,700 It was quite a logistical feat, getting all our camera 589 00:44:42,700 --> 00:44:46,740 equipment which is here, and then all our sort of personal stuff, 590 00:44:46,740 --> 00:44:50,180 which is scattered around because we haven't had time to sort it out 591 00:44:50,180 --> 00:44:53,300 up here, 45 camels' worth of kit, we've got, 592 00:44:53,300 --> 00:44:55,820 all had to be brought up, unloaded. 593 00:44:55,820 --> 00:45:01,260 And of course the camels can't stay up here because there isn't a thing for them to eat or drink. 594 00:45:01,260 --> 00:45:06,140 'But the camels brought us what we need to make camp here for a couple 595 00:45:06,140 --> 00:45:10,900 'of days, long enough to do the job thoroughly and above all safely. 596 00:45:10,900 --> 00:45:16,580 'And it also gives us the chance to take a good look at the volcano 597 00:45:16,580 --> 00:45:18,940 'at the best possible time... 598 00:45:18,940 --> 00:45:20,460 'In the dark.' 599 00:45:30,020 --> 00:45:34,020 Mesmerising! It's much more active now, isn't it? 600 00:45:34,020 --> 00:45:39,780 I think a lot of it is that you can't see the incandescent glow when it's daylight. 601 00:46:00,500 --> 00:46:04,900 It's day two down here at the volcano, and after a frantic day yesterday 602 00:46:04,900 --> 00:46:08,660 of rigging and recce-ing, the real business can start today. 603 00:46:08,660 --> 00:46:12,900 Dougal and Steve are going to be scanning the volcano to try and 604 00:46:12,900 --> 00:46:14,660 build up an amazing 3D map of it, 605 00:46:14,660 --> 00:46:17,060 something that's never been done before. 606 00:46:17,060 --> 00:46:19,620 We've got a big day ahead of us. 607 00:46:19,620 --> 00:46:26,380 'To create a detailed 3D image, geologist Steve has been placing reflectors around the rim. 608 00:46:26,380 --> 00:46:29,380 'The scanner uses these reference points 609 00:46:29,380 --> 00:46:33,340 'to piece together the 3D model from the high definition imagery.' 610 00:46:33,340 --> 00:46:35,580 How are you getting on, Steve? 611 00:46:35,580 --> 00:46:37,900 We're getting on OK at the moment actually. 612 00:46:37,900 --> 00:46:41,580 We've got ten reflectors to put out in total and we've managed to get 613 00:46:41,580 --> 00:46:45,260 three of them right up to the edge so far, so we're just slowly working 614 00:46:45,260 --> 00:46:48,380 our way around and in half an hour or so, we should be done. 615 00:46:48,380 --> 00:46:52,980 As the last reflectors are put in place, Dougal is getting the camera 616 00:46:52,980 --> 00:46:56,060 ready to scan this first part of the 3D model, 617 00:46:56,060 --> 00:46:58,620 the outside edge of the crater. 618 00:46:58,620 --> 00:46:59,700 It's secure. 619 00:46:59,700 --> 00:47:03,380 This is going to be absolutely amazing if we pull this off. 620 00:47:04,380 --> 00:47:10,540 To make the full 3D model, however, he'll need to repeat the scan from the bottom of the crater. 621 00:47:11,780 --> 00:47:15,300 So, while he sets the scanning camera running, 622 00:47:15,300 --> 00:47:17,820 Mark, the head of the climbing team, 623 00:47:17,820 --> 00:47:21,780 is already roped up and hanging over the edge of the pit. 624 00:47:21,780 --> 00:47:25,820 Mark wants to establish a secure foothold in the lava wall so that 625 00:47:25,820 --> 00:47:30,020 all Dougal's scanning gear can be lowered into the pit tomorrow. 626 00:47:32,620 --> 00:47:39,820 When our final job will be to get Dougal into the heart of Erte Ale's deepest, live crater. 627 00:47:47,380 --> 00:47:51,980 As night falls, everyone gathers to look at the results of the rim scan. 628 00:47:51,980 --> 00:47:54,460 This is one of the preliminary scans we've done. 629 00:47:54,460 --> 00:47:57,060 Oh, my God! There you go. 630 00:47:57,060 --> 00:48:01,460 'They're better than we had dared hope, but this is just a beginning. 631 00:48:01,460 --> 00:48:09,260 'Without descending right into the crater, we can't fill in the missing parts of the model.' 632 00:48:09,260 --> 00:48:12,620 There's lots of space missing, and we really need to get into 633 00:48:12,620 --> 00:48:15,980 into...that crater to get the rest of that scan. 634 00:48:15,980 --> 00:48:17,660 Is that the A-frame? LAUGHTER 635 00:48:19,220 --> 00:48:26,780 'The ultimate success, or failure of this venture, will be decided on our last day.' 636 00:48:35,540 --> 00:48:44,220 It's the final day at the volcano, and Dougal's only chance to complete his scan of the crater at Erte Ale. 637 00:48:45,780 --> 00:48:50,180 If we can help him achieve that, he will be able to produce 638 00:48:50,180 --> 00:48:54,660 the first ever 3D model of the inside of an active volcano. 639 00:48:54,660 --> 00:48:59,300 And that will help reveal the state of the Earth's crust here 640 00:48:59,300 --> 00:49:01,860 in the process of breaking apart. 641 00:49:01,860 --> 00:49:07,420 Well, this may be Dougal's final challenge, but it's also a final challenge for our technical team, 642 00:49:07,420 --> 00:49:13,900 because somehow, someone has got to film what Dougal's doing down there at the crater edge. 643 00:49:13,900 --> 00:49:19,980 We've got our camera teams perched all the way around the rim edge, so we should be able to get 644 00:49:19,980 --> 00:49:28,620 views of every angle, as Dougal takes one big step for mankind right to the edge of the crater. 645 00:49:30,300 --> 00:49:34,620 'Everyone is aware that even with the best preparations, 646 00:49:34,620 --> 00:49:39,540 'live volcanoes are unpredictable, sometimes with fatal results. 647 00:49:39,540 --> 00:49:44,260 'Dougal is taking his life into his hands. Though you'd never know it.' 648 00:49:44,260 --> 00:49:46,660 Well, see you, guys... 649 00:49:46,660 --> 00:49:49,900 Smoke me a kipper, I'll be back for breakfast. 650 00:49:56,660 --> 00:50:00,700 Crumbling lava is never the best anchor for a harness. 651 00:50:00,700 --> 00:50:06,220 And all Dougal can do is hope that it doesn't give way as he descends. 652 00:50:06,220 --> 00:50:11,060 Once he's down, 80kg of state-of-the-art scientific equipment will have to follow. 653 00:50:12,700 --> 00:50:18,260 Ah, wow! Clearly a fresh surface here. 654 00:50:21,220 --> 00:50:28,260 Roughly 50m of cooled lava will separate Dougal's feet from the magna chamber 655 00:50:28,260 --> 00:50:30,060 which feeds this volcano - 656 00:50:30,060 --> 00:50:33,420 just 50m between him and 1,000 degrees Centigrade. 657 00:50:35,420 --> 00:50:38,900 The lava lake must go up and down like a piston as it gets re-filled 658 00:50:38,900 --> 00:50:41,620 with magmas periodically and then emptied. 659 00:50:41,620 --> 00:50:43,580 And when it fills to the top of the lower crater, 660 00:50:43,580 --> 00:50:47,700 it will spill over and form these lovely brand new lava flows. 661 00:50:47,700 --> 00:50:51,460 You can just see it really is virgin lava flow. 662 00:50:51,460 --> 00:50:56,340 If Erte Ale suddenly decides that today is the day for an eruption, 663 00:50:56,340 --> 00:50:58,700 there would be no time to escape. 664 00:50:58,700 --> 00:51:01,420 But there's a more immediate danger. 665 00:51:01,420 --> 00:51:05,420 Everywhere along this is riddled with holes and hollows 666 00:51:05,420 --> 00:51:08,580 that our feet can just fall through at a moment's notice. 667 00:51:08,580 --> 00:51:14,300 Wisely, Dougal has brought a thermal imaging camera to help him navigate a route. 668 00:51:14,300 --> 00:51:18,100 It's quite hard to see in this sunlight, but there's a nice image. 669 00:51:18,100 --> 00:51:22,420 You can see the lines of the cracks 670 00:51:22,420 --> 00:51:25,420 and if we just focus our spot height on them, 671 00:51:25,420 --> 00:51:27,980 you can see some of those spot heights 672 00:51:27,980 --> 00:51:30,220 are in excess of 100 degrees Centigrade. 673 00:51:30,220 --> 00:51:34,180 The hottest zones signify the thinnest part of the surface. 674 00:51:34,180 --> 00:51:39,300 And Dougal slowly, carefully gives them as wide a berth as possible. 675 00:51:48,420 --> 00:51:52,300 No-one has ever been able to map an active volcano 676 00:51:52,300 --> 00:51:54,700 from right inside the crater. 677 00:51:57,700 --> 00:52:00,140 But now everything is in place 678 00:52:00,140 --> 00:52:03,460 to capture Erte Ale in three dimensions. 679 00:52:03,460 --> 00:52:06,420 A snapshot in time for all eternity. 680 00:52:09,540 --> 00:52:11,820 OK, I'll go and get the... 681 00:52:11,820 --> 00:52:14,260 You'll have to level again and I'll just check. 682 00:52:14,260 --> 00:52:16,140 The level. Just double check that. 683 00:52:16,140 --> 00:52:19,220 Then, I'll grab the camera for you. 684 00:52:19,220 --> 00:52:20,740 It's the level. 685 00:52:32,020 --> 00:52:35,940 With the scanner safely running, Dougal wants one 686 00:52:35,940 --> 00:52:40,780 last critical piece of information which could show that the lava lake is becoming more active. 687 00:52:40,780 --> 00:52:44,100 The temperature of the lava. 688 00:52:47,820 --> 00:52:51,660 But to get a reading, he must be physically close enough 689 00:52:51,660 --> 00:52:56,340 to the lava lake to throw a temperature probe into its molten heart. 690 00:52:56,340 --> 00:52:59,580 I'm getting a lot closer now. 691 00:53:00,580 --> 00:53:04,660 This guy really, really wants to know how hot magma is, doesn't he? He does. 692 00:53:04,660 --> 00:53:08,460 'He's walking on the least stable part of the crust, 693 00:53:08,460 --> 00:53:12,460 'where it's most likely to collapse under his weight.' 694 00:53:12,460 --> 00:53:14,580 There goes the helmet! 695 00:53:14,580 --> 00:53:16,820 You can see the lava lake now. 696 00:53:24,020 --> 00:53:26,580 He's getting right close to the edge. 697 00:53:26,580 --> 00:53:28,460 I wonder what he can see now. 698 00:53:28,460 --> 00:53:31,180 I can go about another metre... 699 00:53:31,180 --> 00:53:33,140 then I'm on the edge. 700 00:53:33,140 --> 00:53:35,140 Looking over the lava lake. 701 00:53:39,740 --> 00:53:43,780 I don't know if he's going to be able to throw that far enough. I'm not sure. 702 00:53:44,780 --> 00:53:46,940 Everybody ready? 703 00:53:46,940 --> 00:53:49,020 Going to go for it. 704 00:53:49,020 --> 00:53:51,660 I'm going to throw this over... 705 00:53:51,660 --> 00:53:53,500 into the lava lake. 706 00:53:55,860 --> 00:54:01,140 One...two...three! 707 00:54:01,140 --> 00:54:02,820 Yay! 708 00:54:05,580 --> 00:54:07,820 The temperature's starting to go up. 709 00:54:09,340 --> 00:54:11,420 I can't see where it's got to. 710 00:54:15,660 --> 00:54:19,140 'It looks like a good throw, but there's a problem.' 711 00:54:25,100 --> 00:54:27,980 With the cable we've got, stuck on the rocks, 712 00:54:27,980 --> 00:54:29,980 OK, that's the story of my life. 713 00:54:33,420 --> 00:54:36,020 Well, there's not a great deal I can do now. 714 00:54:37,660 --> 00:54:41,580 It appears that the lava lake has defeated us. 715 00:54:41,580 --> 00:54:45,780 It's so difficult to measure the temperature of such a phenomenon. 716 00:54:45,780 --> 00:54:49,620 We can't get our thermometer in because the crust is too far, 717 00:54:49,620 --> 00:54:53,380 and my throw is rubbish so I'm going to have to abandon that expedition 718 00:54:53,380 --> 00:54:57,740 and get back to a safe area... 719 00:54:57,740 --> 00:54:59,900 and go from there. 720 00:55:04,540 --> 00:55:08,500 For today, Dougal will have to be satisfied with one remarkable 721 00:55:08,500 --> 00:55:13,060 scientific first, a groundbreaking three-dimensional scan. 722 00:55:13,060 --> 00:55:15,420 Well, it was a valiant effort. 723 00:55:15,420 --> 00:55:18,260 It was definitely a valiant effort. LAUGHTER 724 00:55:18,260 --> 00:55:21,020 It was a bit of a crap throw, it has to be said. 725 00:55:21,020 --> 00:55:23,820 But at least he's got the scan and that's the main thing. 726 00:55:23,820 --> 00:55:27,740 So at the end of this, we will see the most perfect 3D image 727 00:55:27,740 --> 00:55:31,300 of this crater ever produced, which is fantastic. 728 00:55:31,300 --> 00:55:34,780 And, you know, the magma will just have to remain a mystery. 729 00:55:34,780 --> 00:55:38,500 Yeah, I think it's not the biggest disappointment. 730 00:55:38,500 --> 00:55:42,140 It gives him something to come back to and try later. Absolutely. 731 00:55:42,140 --> 00:55:44,260 Come back, Dougal! All is forgiven! 732 00:55:59,660 --> 00:56:01,540 Well done! That was amazing. 733 00:56:01,540 --> 00:56:05,260 The scan, we nailed it, so the scan's in the bag. That's pretty good. 734 00:56:05,260 --> 00:56:07,380 Hats off to the volcano and, er... 735 00:56:07,380 --> 00:56:10,340 Cheers, mate! Whoo! 736 00:56:12,020 --> 00:56:15,220 Getting the scanner equipment out here has been a major goals. 737 00:56:15,220 --> 00:56:18,020 We've traipsed it over the whole of the Afar triangle, 738 00:56:18,020 --> 00:56:21,820 with camels, with 4x4s, with stuck 4x4s, with camels on strike. 739 00:56:21,820 --> 00:56:27,500 And to come away now knowing that we've pretty much nailed 740 00:56:27,500 --> 00:56:30,460 the first ever scan of Erte Ale in high resolution 3D, 741 00:56:30,460 --> 00:56:33,380 that we'll be able to view, it's going to be superb. 742 00:56:33,380 --> 00:56:35,940 The momentous events of today 743 00:56:35,940 --> 00:56:40,420 mark the climax of our journey to this unforgettable land. 744 00:56:42,380 --> 00:56:45,540 This has been most extraordinary journey, culminating here 745 00:56:45,540 --> 00:56:49,260 at the crater and, you know, our final challenge was, 746 00:56:49,260 --> 00:56:55,700 "Could Dougal get down and do that last scan that was going to build up the perfect 3D picture?" 747 00:56:55,700 --> 00:56:57,500 And he's done it. It's brilliant. 748 00:56:58,620 --> 00:57:04,900 And this is it. The first ever 3D model of the inside of an active volcano. 749 00:57:04,900 --> 00:57:09,660 A unique snapshot in the life of this - the world's oldest lava lake. 750 00:57:16,980 --> 00:57:21,060 For the world's science community it offers much more. 751 00:57:21,060 --> 00:57:28,020 It captures an apocalyptic, geological process that has never been observed in action before. 752 00:57:28,020 --> 00:57:31,700 The gradual fragmenting of the Earth's crust, 753 00:57:31,700 --> 00:57:35,780 which will lead ultimately to the birth of a new ocean. 754 00:57:37,300 --> 00:57:40,660 It's a drama that will play out over millions of years, 755 00:57:40,660 --> 00:57:45,020 forming the backdrop to the lives of the people here in the Rift Valley 756 00:57:45,020 --> 00:57:47,220 as it has since the dawn of mankind. 757 00:57:50,180 --> 00:57:57,340 With our science mission accomplished, we return to our Afar hosts for one last thank you. 758 00:57:57,340 --> 00:57:59,980 It's all kicking off already. THEY CLAP 759 00:58:02,580 --> 00:58:07,980 And, as special guests at a village wedding, we find ourselves honoured beyond words. 760 00:58:09,940 --> 00:58:11,260 I haven't got a stick. 761 00:58:14,580 --> 00:58:18,500 It's a fitting end to this journey of a lifetime 762 00:58:18,500 --> 00:58:20,940 to the hottest place on Earth. 763 00:58:20,940 --> 00:58:23,100 What an amazing country! 764 00:58:23,100 --> 00:58:27,140 You know, the ups and downs of this whole trip. 765 00:58:27,140 --> 00:58:31,580 Some of the things we tried to achieve that we didn't do, some that went really well, 766 00:58:31,580 --> 00:58:33,980 but the people, the landscape and everything. 767 00:58:33,980 --> 00:58:36,980 Hard as nails, absolutely fantastic. 72344

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