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At the northern end of Africa's
Great Rift Valley lies an area
unlike anywhere on Earth.
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00:00:13,460 --> 00:00:21,300
This is the Danakil Desert in
Ethiopia, perhaps the most
inhospitable place known to man.
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00:00:21,300 --> 00:00:28,700
Volcanoes and earthquakes
continually rip the ground apart,
spewing lava and noxious gases.
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00:00:31,660 --> 00:00:36,660
And this is officially
the hottest place on the
surface of the planet.
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00:00:42,220 --> 00:00:47,780
The idea that anyone would
actually live here seems absurd.
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00:00:47,780 --> 00:00:53,100
And yet there are people
living here, as they have for
thousands of years -
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a legendary nomadic warrior tribe
called the Afar.
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00:01:02,060 --> 00:01:06,780
I am on an incredible journey
with a team of scientists.
9
00:01:06,780 --> 00:01:11,660
We hope to discover
how people survive
in this most extreme environment,
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00:01:11,660 --> 00:01:14,620
how their lives
and even their bodies
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00:01:14,620 --> 00:01:16,780
have been shaped
by the land around them.
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00:01:16,780 --> 00:01:20,220
Look at you. You make it
look completely effortless.
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00:01:20,220 --> 00:01:25,180
You need to be on good form in
this environment just to carry on.
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00:01:25,180 --> 00:01:28,740
If you're off, you will die.
Nice and simple.
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This is a community in the truest
sense of the word, where survival
depends on working together.
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00:01:35,420 --> 00:01:38,340
I love this place. You just
feel part of the family already.
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00:01:39,380 --> 00:01:41,940
They called me sister today.
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We also want to delve beneath the
surface of this extraordinary land
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00:01:47,380 --> 00:01:51,140
to unlock the secrets
of its tortured geology.
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00:01:53,300 --> 00:01:58,580
It's a journey that has taken us
into the fabric of the Earth,
broken apart by earthquakes.
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00:02:02,500 --> 00:02:05,740
Whoa! You are kidding me!
22
00:02:05,740 --> 00:02:10,380
To think this happened overnight.
This is the stuff of Hollywood.
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00:02:10,380 --> 00:02:19,060
The climax of our journey will
take us into the raging volcanoes
that are still shaping this land.
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00:02:19,060 --> 00:02:20,980
Oh, my goodness!
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00:02:20,980 --> 00:02:25,500
No wonder the Afar call this
place "the gateway to hell".
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00:03:01,380 --> 00:03:03,020
Our intrepid team of scientists
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00:03:03,020 --> 00:03:07,540
and explorers has been in Ethiopia
for two weeks, and we have endured
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a punishing trek just to get
to the Danakil Depression,
the hottest place on Earth.
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But we have been welcomed into the
world of the incredible Afar people,
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00:03:22,300 --> 00:03:24,500
who call this place home.
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SPEAKS IN AFAR
That is very nice.
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00:03:28,780 --> 00:03:32,700
Now, in this final phase
of the expedition,
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00:03:32,700 --> 00:03:35,820
we will be learning quite how tough
and demanding
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00:03:35,820 --> 00:03:38,740
living in this remote corner can be.
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00:03:38,740 --> 00:03:44,820
The Afar can only live
in this hostile environment
because of their livestock.
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00:03:44,820 --> 00:03:48,620
This is not normal, OK?
It has got very, very bad diarrhoea.
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00:03:48,620 --> 00:03:51,500
Obviously, if they get diarrhoea,
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00:03:51,500 --> 00:03:53,260
that means they are losing water,
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00:03:53,260 --> 00:03:56,540
and in an environment like that,
that can be very, very serious.
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00:03:56,540 --> 00:03:58,580
Oh, my golly.
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00:03:58,580 --> 00:04:01,220
THEY TALK IN LOCAL LANGUAGE
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00:04:01,220 --> 00:04:05,020
This afternoon has
brought home the brutal truth of it.
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00:04:05,020 --> 00:04:07,340
I have been in other
parts of the world,
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00:04:07,340 --> 00:04:10,620
and I have held
malnourished, dying children.
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00:04:10,620 --> 00:04:12,940
And it is a terrible, terrible thing.
46
00:04:15,900 --> 00:04:18,700
Even the day-to-day
business of living here
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00:04:18,700 --> 00:04:23,420
is proving harder than I expected,
especially for the Afar women.
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00:04:23,420 --> 00:04:25,980
These women don't have a moment
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00:04:25,980 --> 00:04:30,820
to express themselves, to just get
cross, to just throw something out.
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00:04:30,820 --> 00:04:32,620
Maybe we are really spoilt,
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00:04:32,620 --> 00:04:37,100
but we are allowed to shout
and scream and rail against things.
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00:04:37,100 --> 00:04:39,900
And...
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00:04:39,900 --> 00:04:42,700
Oh, it makes me cross.
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00:04:46,540 --> 00:04:50,780
Meanwhile, earth scientist Dougal
will explore the final piece
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00:04:50,780 --> 00:04:53,900
of the Danakil's incredible
geological puzzle.
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00:04:53,900 --> 00:04:57,140
This part of Africa is literally
tearing itself apart.
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00:04:57,140 --> 00:04:58,980
We have got steaming fissures,
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00:04:58,980 --> 00:05:02,540
active volcanoes
and bubbling lava lakes.
59
00:05:04,980 --> 00:05:08,220
Having mapped an earthquake
fissure in 3D
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00:05:08,220 --> 00:05:12,300
to show how fast the Earth's crust
here is breaking apart...
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00:05:12,300 --> 00:05:15,020
I am happy for you guys. This is
good. This is good stuff.
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00:05:15,020 --> 00:05:16,380
Wow!
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00:05:16,380 --> 00:05:20,340
In one final climactic
go-for-broke venture,
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00:05:20,340 --> 00:05:21,980
Dougal wants to record
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00:05:21,980 --> 00:05:24,700
how far that process
has already gone...
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00:05:26,340 --> 00:05:31,980
by making a 3D record of the
world's largest lava lake
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00:05:31,980 --> 00:05:34,100
from the inside.
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00:05:34,100 --> 00:05:37,900
I want to go face-to-face
with those volcanoes using
the latest 3D technology.
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00:05:45,860 --> 00:05:48,140
As we approach our
final week at Kusru Wad,
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00:05:48,140 --> 00:05:52,540
we have become close enough
to the Afar people to be included
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00:05:52,540 --> 00:05:54,820
in more and more
of their unique culture.
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00:05:54,820 --> 00:05:57,060
And that includes
the local equivalent
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00:05:57,060 --> 00:06:01,980
of a Sunday League kick about, the
Afar's favourite ball game, Korso.
74
00:06:01,980 --> 00:06:05,900
Chief Galissa has invited Steve
to play,
75
00:06:05,900 --> 00:06:09,860
but first, he is going
to have to figure out the rules.
76
00:06:09,860 --> 00:06:12,300
It doesn't have any
rules except to play.
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00:06:12,300 --> 00:06:14,500
There's no rules. Right, OK.
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00:06:14,500 --> 00:06:18,540
The more Steve finds out,
the more this seems like a bad idea.
79
00:06:18,540 --> 00:06:23,580
So many people used to die when they
played Korso, so they stopped
playing it. OK!
80
00:06:23,580 --> 00:06:28,980
OK, so people died playing Korso?
Yes, kill each other.
81
00:06:28,980 --> 00:06:35,620
Oh, right. OK, that's fine(!)
They killed each other
while playing the game? Yes.
82
00:06:35,620 --> 00:06:39,620
That is a bit of a worry, isn't it?
Is that the object of the game,
to kill the opposition?
83
00:06:39,620 --> 00:06:46,460
No, it is not. But some
people who are playing, they play
roughly, and so if one gets killed
84
00:06:46,460 --> 00:06:49,540
they will kill you next time.
By shooting at you. So you...
85
00:06:49,540 --> 00:06:53,260
..Shooting at you?!
There's guns involved?
86
00:06:53,260 --> 00:06:56,060
No, guns are not involved,
but if someone dies from you,
87
00:06:56,060 --> 00:06:59,420
what will you do to that guy? You
won't leave him. You will kill him.
88
00:06:59,420 --> 00:07:01,900
The brothers...
You could let them just score?
89
00:07:01,900 --> 00:07:04,980
No, you cannot. This is a serious
business, Steve.
90
00:07:04,980 --> 00:07:06,940
But we're going to play gentle today?
91
00:07:06,940 --> 00:07:12,020
Yes, today will be gentle. Good.
But leave the gun at the sideline.
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00:07:12,020 --> 00:07:14,500
THEY SPEAK IN NATIVE TONGUE
93
00:07:14,500 --> 00:07:16,620
Yes, he will leave the gun.
That's good.
94
00:07:16,620 --> 00:07:19,740
Maybe I'll get angry in
the middle of the game.
95
00:07:21,260 --> 00:07:24,660
Then we will see him being fierce!
Yeah.
96
00:07:24,660 --> 00:07:28,820
This is going to be quite a
test, and not just for Steve.
97
00:07:28,820 --> 00:07:32,700
It's also a chance for Mukul to
see how Steve's body stands up
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00:07:32,700 --> 00:07:36,420
to running in the heat compared
to the local Afar players.
99
00:07:36,420 --> 00:07:39,260
These capsules will allow him
100
00:07:39,260 --> 00:07:42,780
to track Steve's temperature,
and cardiac monitors
101
00:07:42,780 --> 00:07:46,700
will record his heart rate
during the game,
102
00:07:46,700 --> 00:07:49,260
with Galissa agreeing to
be the local guinea pig.
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00:07:52,660 --> 00:07:55,460
Two weeks ago,
Mukul did the same test on Steve
104
00:07:55,460 --> 00:07:58,100
when he worked
in the salt mines at Dallol.
105
00:07:59,100 --> 00:08:03,180
Then, he wasn't sure if the Afar's
better heat resistance
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00:08:03,180 --> 00:08:06,780
was inbred
or simply the result of living here.
107
00:08:08,460 --> 00:08:10,380
Now,
he is going to get the chance
108
00:08:10,380 --> 00:08:12,660
to see if Steve has become
acclimatised,
109
00:08:12,660 --> 00:08:15,860
assuming he survives
long enough to get a reading!
110
00:08:15,860 --> 00:08:18,820
I still have absolutely no idea
111
00:08:18,820 --> 00:08:23,060
what the idea is. I have seen a ball
of some sort bounced on the floor.
112
00:08:23,060 --> 00:08:27,820
They seem to be splitting
into two teams here, so...
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00:08:27,820 --> 00:08:29,580
I don't know.
114
00:08:29,580 --> 00:08:32,740
I'll go with the flow to start off
and we'll see where that takes me.
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00:08:47,540 --> 00:08:53,100
I have no idea. You think, rugby,
the breakdown is difficult to
referee. This looks impossible.
116
00:08:53,100 --> 00:08:57,220
That's obviously why you don't have
any rules. You don't need a ref.
117
00:08:58,780 --> 00:09:02,860
What Steve is making up for in lack
of skill, he is doing with size.
He can just pick them all up
118
00:09:02,860 --> 00:09:04,020
under his arm, can't he?
119
00:09:07,340 --> 00:09:11,500
Galissa is well into this.
He is obviously
a past master of this game.
120
00:09:19,660 --> 00:09:24,420
It's a valiant effort on Steve's
part, but he soon develops a limp.
121
00:09:24,420 --> 00:09:27,660
He is coming back. Come on,
hop-along, what have you done?
122
00:09:27,660 --> 00:09:29,580
Have you stood on something?
123
00:09:29,580 --> 00:09:32,500
No, I've just lost
the sole of my foot. That's raw.
124
00:09:32,500 --> 00:09:35,380
I've just had to pull a flap off. Ow!
125
00:09:35,380 --> 00:09:38,860
In terms of rules,
I couldn't work it out.
126
00:09:38,860 --> 00:09:41,340
Fortunately,
his career-threatening injury
127
00:09:41,340 --> 00:09:44,940
gives Mukul the chance
to check his vital statistics.
128
00:09:44,940 --> 00:09:46,700
Let's do your temperature.
129
00:09:46,700 --> 00:09:51,740
A rise of just three degrees
is life-threatening.
Four is usually fatal.
130
00:09:53,260 --> 00:09:57,540
Actually you're doing very well.
This hasn't risen a huge amount.
Cool. 37.9.
131
00:09:57,540 --> 00:10:01,580
Steve's core temperature
has gone up only half a degree.
132
00:10:03,100 --> 00:10:05,620
Which is less than two weeks ago.
133
00:10:06,900 --> 00:10:14,300
You guys have only really done 15
minutes worth and have risen
a whole degree to 38 degrees.
134
00:10:14,300 --> 00:10:19,420
It's clear Steve's body has
got better at keeping his core
temperature under control.
135
00:10:19,420 --> 00:10:22,540
But how much more is he
having to sweat to do it?
136
00:10:22,540 --> 00:10:24,940
I'm going to step on the scales
137
00:10:24,940 --> 00:10:27,940
and then I'll bathe my feet,
I think.
138
00:10:27,940 --> 00:10:29,660
Ooh... Ow.
139
00:10:29,660 --> 00:10:34,740
That is a bit sore, actually. You've
dropped almost a kilo and a half.
140
00:10:34,740 --> 00:10:37,820
A kilo half, OK?
A litre and a half in 20 minutes.
141
00:10:37,820 --> 00:10:40,020
Three pints in 20 minutes.
142
00:10:40,020 --> 00:10:44,020
That's amazing. That is pretty
impressive. That needs replacing.
143
00:10:44,020 --> 00:10:48,140
Despite his improvement,
this rate of fluid loss could be
144
00:10:48,140 --> 00:10:52,940
seriously damaging if Steve played
the full hour of the Korso match.
145
00:10:52,940 --> 00:10:55,340
So how much has Galissa lost?
146
00:10:55,340 --> 00:10:58,060
You're coming in a
featherweight 54 kilos.
147
00:10:58,060 --> 00:11:03,380
We can see Galissa isn't sweating
anywhere near as much as you. He's
not losing the same amount of fluid.
148
00:11:03,380 --> 00:11:08,980
And Steve's soft Western feet
are no match for the locals either.
149
00:11:08,980 --> 00:11:14,100
20 minutes and look at you! You're
feet look like they've been flayed!
150
00:11:14,100 --> 00:11:16,620
I know. I don't think
151
00:11:16,620 --> 00:11:19,620
I could keep up with their
calloused feet I'm afraid.
152
00:11:19,620 --> 00:11:24,980
My little namby-pamby toes just
weren't up to the grade, I'm afraid.
153
00:11:24,980 --> 00:11:28,500
So does Galissa rate
the 20 minute cameo performance?
154
00:11:30,940 --> 00:11:33,780
He says, "I choose him
before I see how he plays."
155
00:11:36,380 --> 00:11:40,900
He has seen many heat and many suns
so your feet is new to this area.
156
00:11:42,220 --> 00:11:46,660
If you go bare foot, like this,
your foot will be Afar foot.
157
00:11:46,660 --> 00:11:47,980
Maybe tomorrow!
158
00:11:49,700 --> 00:11:54,700
Thank you for everything this week.
It has been fantastic.
159
00:11:56,340 --> 00:12:01,180
Thank you, Galissa. Thank you
for inviting us to your village
160
00:12:01,180 --> 00:12:04,260
and for making us feel so welcome.
161
00:12:04,260 --> 00:12:07,540
Let's get you home.
Do you need to be carried?
162
00:12:07,540 --> 00:12:08,580
Ready?
163
00:12:08,580 --> 00:12:10,820
Oh my God!
164
00:12:10,820 --> 00:12:13,500
While we take Steve
away to be patched up,
165
00:12:13,500 --> 00:12:17,700
Dougal has begun the final,
climactic leg
of his geological mission -
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00:12:17,700 --> 00:12:21,780
to map the volcano at Erte Ale.
167
00:12:24,220 --> 00:12:29,420
Erta Ale is three days away by car,
but Dougal's found a way
to get a preview
168
00:12:29,420 --> 00:12:33,020
of a phenomenon
he's dreamed of exploring for years.
169
00:12:33,020 --> 00:12:38,620
Well, we've been lucky enough
to get hold of a fixed wing aircraft
for a short period of time.
170
00:12:38,620 --> 00:12:41,260
It will allow us to
actually get up to assess
171
00:12:41,260 --> 00:12:45,740
the current state of Erte Ale and
check that the lava lake's bubbling
away
172
00:12:45,740 --> 00:12:49,380
and that the access
will be good there.
173
00:12:52,380 --> 00:12:55,060
The tiny plane is thrown
around in the super-heated air
174
00:12:55,060 --> 00:12:59,860
rising from the seemingly
endless volcanic landscape.
175
00:13:05,180 --> 00:13:08,860
We can really start to see
some of the volcanic centres
176
00:13:08,860 --> 00:13:12,860
coming through and that's about
40 or 50 kilometres south
177
00:13:12,860 --> 00:13:14,460
of the Erte Ale massif.
178
00:13:14,460 --> 00:13:19,900
Yeah, it's very, very big
from up here.
179
00:13:19,900 --> 00:13:23,020
The Danakil lies on
the Great Rift Valley,
180
00:13:23,020 --> 00:13:27,420
where the edges of two tectonic
plates are slowly moving apart.
181
00:13:27,420 --> 00:13:30,300
This causes the crust
to stretch and thin,
182
00:13:30,300 --> 00:13:34,140
allowing molten magma to force
its way up to the surface.
183
00:13:36,620 --> 00:13:41,220
Just approaching the top
of Erte Ale now. The plane
is jumping all over the place.
184
00:13:41,220 --> 00:13:45,540
I can just about see...
185
00:13:45,540 --> 00:13:51,140
I can just see the crater of Erte
Ale right in front of me now.
186
00:13:51,140 --> 00:13:55,620
Boy, is this good! The lava lake
is bubbling away.
187
00:13:55,620 --> 00:13:59,860
It's low enough. We should be able
to get access to the lava lake.
188
00:13:59,860 --> 00:14:02,500
Oh, wow. You can just see
it steaming away there.
189
00:14:02,500 --> 00:14:05,540
Oh, this is phenomenal. Really good.
190
00:14:08,020 --> 00:14:11,860
How this lava lake is developing
will help determine how thin the
Earth's crust
191
00:14:11,860 --> 00:14:15,700
has become. What Dougal describes
192
00:14:15,700 --> 00:14:19,420
as a weeping wound
in the broken skin of the Earth.
193
00:14:22,180 --> 00:14:29,780
That is Erte Ale volcano,
the oldest known lava lake
on the planet just there.
194
00:14:31,900 --> 00:14:35,380
All Dougal has to do now
is get him,
195
00:14:35,380 --> 00:14:40,540
his team and the 3D mapping kit
into that live crater.
196
00:14:46,220 --> 00:14:49,100
Back in the village,
the day-to-day survival
197
00:14:49,100 --> 00:14:52,660
of the Afar people
rests on their livestock
198
00:14:52,660 --> 00:14:56,860
and Steve's
found a way to say thank you to
the Afar for their hospitality.
199
00:14:56,860 --> 00:15:00,780
They have little or no veterinary
care for their precious animals,
200
00:15:00,780 --> 00:15:03,420
so he's offered to run
a camel clinic.
201
00:15:03,420 --> 00:15:05,740
Another day, another camel.
202
00:15:05,740 --> 00:15:07,300
Here we go.
203
00:15:07,300 --> 00:15:09,740
His first patient
is a camel with a sore hump.
204
00:15:09,740 --> 00:15:12,540
Ssh! Ssh! Ssh!
205
00:15:12,540 --> 00:15:15,580
It looks like there's teeth
marks here and there, basically.
206
00:15:15,580 --> 00:15:20,540
Yeah, it was bitten by a camel.
Males have to compete for females.
They often will bite each other.
207
00:15:20,540 --> 00:15:23,780
Big sharp canines as well.
Built for fighting.
208
00:15:23,780 --> 00:15:26,820
And their mouths are not
the cleanest of places.
209
00:15:26,820 --> 00:15:31,540
What we need to do is we
need to clean this up and
have a look at it and see.
210
00:15:31,540 --> 00:15:35,820
But something tells me
the camel's not going to like this.
211
00:15:35,820 --> 00:15:38,420
We've got it muzzled.
It can probably still head-butt me.
212
00:15:38,420 --> 00:15:42,060
But, em, they've tied its back
legs, they've tied its front legs
213
00:15:42,060 --> 00:15:44,260
and we'll just take it
nice and slowly.
214
00:15:53,860 --> 00:15:55,700
I think we've found the sore spot.
215
00:15:55,700 --> 00:16:01,500
For this infection to heal,
the camel needs a shot of
antibiotics and plenty of rest.
216
00:16:02,460 --> 00:16:07,340
One of the things
they want to do is get this animal
back to performing quickly.
217
00:16:07,340 --> 00:16:10,300
This is not a pet, this is an
animal that has a job to do.
218
00:16:10,300 --> 00:16:14,140
Injuries are serious
for working animals,
219
00:16:14,140 --> 00:16:18,540
but the major threat to these
invaluable creatures
is disease and bacteria.
220
00:16:18,540 --> 00:16:20,580
Where's our other camel?
221
00:16:20,580 --> 00:16:22,580
No, it's not normal.
222
00:16:22,580 --> 00:16:24,620
This is not normal? OK.
223
00:16:24,620 --> 00:16:29,500
He's obviously got
very, very bad diarrhoea. Obviously,
if they get diarrhoea,
224
00:16:29,500 --> 00:16:34,540
that means they're losing water
and in an environment like that,
that can be very, very serious.
225
00:16:34,540 --> 00:16:39,540
But treating animals
in these conditions
is no easy task for Steve.
226
00:16:39,540 --> 00:16:41,300
I had no idea what to expect.
227
00:16:41,300 --> 00:16:44,540
It was a bit of a leap into the
deep end. Unfamiliar species.
228
00:16:44,540 --> 00:16:48,420
Then the lack of laboratory
equipment and everything else.
229
00:16:48,420 --> 00:16:50,260
I don't know what bacteria are here.
230
00:16:50,260 --> 00:16:53,900
I can't do any blood cultures.
I can't do anything here.
231
00:16:53,900 --> 00:16:57,820
So I've really realised
that I'm reduced to the state
of a layman almost.
232
00:16:57,820 --> 00:17:00,540
I can get little
bits of information.
233
00:17:00,540 --> 00:17:04,860
The Afar here have never had
access to Western medicine
234
00:17:04,860 --> 00:17:09,540
so have developed their own methods
of traditional healing
for their animals.
235
00:17:09,540 --> 00:17:13,500
Steve, this is Abdul, he is an Afar
traditional healer.
236
00:17:13,500 --> 00:17:16,700
He is an elder around here. OK.
237
00:17:16,700 --> 00:17:20,740
So what would you treat
this camel with?
238
00:17:20,740 --> 00:17:24,060
THEY TALK IN NATIVE TONGUE
239
00:17:24,060 --> 00:17:29,260
There's a tree, he says. I will
milk a camel, mix it together
and I'll put it in his mouth.
240
00:17:29,260 --> 00:17:31,420
The bad things will go.
241
00:17:31,420 --> 00:17:35,260
But as well as plants,
the traditional healer uses some
stranger treatments,
242
00:17:35,260 --> 00:17:38,180
including cutting their ears.
243
00:17:38,180 --> 00:17:41,940
He says,
if I see him crazy running round,
244
00:17:41,940 --> 00:17:45,780
they cut a small amount
of the ear. And what does that do?
245
00:17:50,620 --> 00:17:52,580
He becomes a little bit quiet
246
00:17:52,580 --> 00:17:56,220
and knows that something is with him.
247
00:17:56,220 --> 00:17:58,220
Ah! OK. OK, that's interesting.
248
00:17:58,220 --> 00:18:03,460
That's an interesting way forward.
It doesn't surprise me that
there are traditional treatments.
249
00:18:03,460 --> 00:18:07,940
What's interesting is it seems to be
a combination of some things
that could prove to be very useful
250
00:18:07,940 --> 00:18:12,660
like the plants and seed remedies.
But coupled with that,
you do get these strange...
251
00:18:12,660 --> 00:18:15,780
You know, the cutting of the ear and
this sort of thing - don't have
252
00:18:15,780 --> 00:18:20,340
any therapeutic benefit at all, but
it's not for me to judge that here.
253
00:18:20,340 --> 00:18:26,900
But it's not just animals that
are treated with traditional
methods like cutting.
254
00:18:26,900 --> 00:18:31,580
Team doctor Mukul and I have
found they're also used on people.
255
00:18:34,100 --> 00:18:37,740
Will you show me Aisha's leg? Show me
what's the matter with it.
256
00:18:37,740 --> 00:18:42,340
We've been joined by Australian
nurse Valerie Browning,
257
00:18:42,340 --> 00:18:44,700
who's lived and worked with
the Afar people
258
00:18:44,700 --> 00:18:48,900
for 20 years and
conducts regular clinics of her own.
259
00:18:51,860 --> 00:18:53,380
Big scars. What...?
260
00:18:57,740 --> 00:18:59,900
She said
she had a huge infection here
261
00:18:59,900 --> 00:19:05,660
and this is burning and that
helped to get all the pus out.
262
00:19:05,660 --> 00:19:08,860
By burning or cutting the skin,
263
00:19:08,860 --> 00:19:11,460
some Afar believe they destroy
what they think
264
00:19:11,460 --> 00:19:17,500
is the bad blood that causes
illness. Though not everyone
here is convinced.
265
00:19:17,500 --> 00:19:19,500
Did any of these help, do you think?
266
00:19:19,500 --> 00:19:23,820
THEY TALK IN NATIVE TONGUE
267
00:19:23,820 --> 00:19:28,380
He said, "What help is this?"
He said, "No, it didn't help
her at all." He's quite angry.
268
00:19:35,500 --> 00:19:40,860
He said that this is nonsense.
Just total nonsense.
It can only make her sicker.
269
00:19:40,860 --> 00:19:44,100
As well as dealing
with these ancient traditions,
270
00:19:44,100 --> 00:19:47,540
Valerie and her health
workers have an uphill battle
271
00:19:47,540 --> 00:19:50,140
to diagnose and treat patients
like Aisha.
272
00:19:50,140 --> 00:19:55,180
I mean, is there anything obvious
that you would know about that
these symptoms would match?
273
00:19:55,180 --> 00:20:00,380
The only thing I've come across,
I remember reading about, a
condition called brucellosis.
274
00:20:00,380 --> 00:20:04,380
And it's linked
to unpasteurised milk.
275
00:20:04,380 --> 00:20:07,820
Brucellosis is a disease that can
infect the central nervous system
276
00:20:07,820 --> 00:20:11,020
and is caught from bacteria
in animal's milk.
277
00:20:11,020 --> 00:20:12,300
It's rife in this region
278
00:20:12,300 --> 00:20:18,340
and Steve has found several cases of
it in the goats in Kusru Wad.
279
00:20:18,340 --> 00:20:22,100
Brucellosis would be
considered a very serious disease.
280
00:20:22,100 --> 00:20:28,020
We are told about a lot of this
stuff in the UK because it
is of historical importance.
281
00:20:28,020 --> 00:20:31,900
But out here, it's still
going on on a day-to-day basis.
282
00:20:31,900 --> 00:20:36,260
And you know, some of these
diseases could have a
real impact on people's lives.
283
00:20:36,260 --> 00:20:43,180
The Afars' precarious existence
relies entirely on the milk and
meat they get from their animals.
284
00:20:43,180 --> 00:20:48,820
Yet these same animals are passing
life-threatening diseases
back to them.
285
00:20:48,820 --> 00:20:53,260
You need to be on good form in
this environment just to carry on.
286
00:20:53,260 --> 00:20:55,300
If you're off,
287
00:20:55,300 --> 00:20:59,620
you can't walk, you can't collect
water, you can't herd you animals.
288
00:20:59,620 --> 00:21:02,100
You will die. Nice and simple.
289
00:21:13,540 --> 00:21:19,300
As our last week progresses, I'm
slowly building up a picture of the
Afar's existence.
290
00:21:19,300 --> 00:21:25,180
It's the women I feel closest to,
yet I still don't feel like I
am really able to talk to them.
291
00:21:25,180 --> 00:21:31,180
It's made more difficult by the fact
that our translators are all male.
292
00:21:31,180 --> 00:21:35,020
But now we have Valerie with us,
I'm hoping that may change.
293
00:21:36,660 --> 00:21:38,980
Hi. Let's go.. OK.
294
00:21:38,980 --> 00:21:43,300
It's such a pleasure to be here with
somebody like you who, you know...
295
00:21:43,300 --> 00:21:47,620
you're a perfect bridge between
the two sides - me and them.
296
00:21:47,620 --> 00:21:51,380
Married to an Afar elder,
Valerie has dedicated herself
297
00:21:51,380 --> 00:21:55,620
to helping the people get
access to health and education.
298
00:21:55,620 --> 00:22:00,220
And now she's able to get me closer
to the heart of this very
alien culture.
299
00:22:00,220 --> 00:22:05,500
Our idea of kind of privacy
and personal space just goes
completely out of the window.
300
00:22:05,500 --> 00:22:09,500
In Afar society, there
is no private space. I mean,
I don't even have my own bed.
301
00:22:09,500 --> 00:22:11,460
I don't even have my own comb.
302
00:22:11,460 --> 00:22:12,620
Really? Not possible.
303
00:22:15,180 --> 00:22:18,100
One of the women in the
village is expecting a baby
304
00:22:18,100 --> 00:22:24,340
and Valerie is going to help me
find out just how they cope
with pregnancy and childbirth.
305
00:22:24,340 --> 00:22:29,580
A lot of women are very excited at
this time. Is she excited about it?
306
00:22:29,580 --> 00:22:32,260
Is this something that she's
really looking forward to?
307
00:22:36,620 --> 00:22:40,820
She said, "Yes, I'm happy." I asked
her did she want a boy or a girl.
308
00:22:40,820 --> 00:22:43,060
She said, "Well,
309
00:22:43,060 --> 00:22:47,100
"the girls are good, the boys are
good." Will she be getting nervous?
310
00:22:47,100 --> 00:22:51,060
Is there that sort of
concept of fear?
311
00:22:56,540 --> 00:22:58,700
She says, "No, I don't have
any fear."
312
00:22:58,700 --> 00:23:06,100
She's incredibly calm, but I can't
help wondering how she'll cope
with little to no medical back-up.
313
00:23:06,100 --> 00:23:12,940
With the delivery, are there any
cultural practices particular
to the Afar that go on?
314
00:23:12,940 --> 00:23:15,660
In terms of delivery, there are.
315
00:23:15,660 --> 00:23:23,140
They believe that the bladder
and the uterus is joining, so
the mother in labour shouldn't have
316
00:23:23,140 --> 00:23:28,980
any food or drink. Traditionally,
they don't breast feed
for 72 hours.
317
00:23:33,900 --> 00:23:37,780
My initial feeling
is completely polarised. You know,
318
00:23:37,780 --> 00:23:44,300
on the one hand, there is this
extraordinary feeling of warmth
and support, and I can't imagine
319
00:23:44,300 --> 00:23:47,740
a kind of lovelier way to
bring a child into the world.
320
00:23:47,740 --> 00:23:54,820
But, equally, that woman that
we were sitting there with,
she could be dead next week.
321
00:23:54,820 --> 00:23:57,500
These women
don't know any different.
322
00:23:57,500 --> 00:24:00,740
This is what generations of women
have gone through
323
00:24:00,740 --> 00:24:03,780
when they're expecting a child,
so they have just got to
324
00:24:03,780 --> 00:24:06,780
bite onto that cloth
and grin and bear it.
325
00:24:14,180 --> 00:24:16,980
Southeast of us, on the road to
the Erte Ale volcano,
326
00:24:16,980 --> 00:24:19,900
the science team have stayed
their first night
327
00:24:19,900 --> 00:24:23,700
on the shores of one of Ethiopia's
great salt lakes -
328
00:24:23,700 --> 00:24:24,900
Afdera.
329
00:24:26,420 --> 00:24:29,740
This was once part
of a massive inland sea,
330
00:24:29,740 --> 00:24:35,180
now it's a highly saline lake,
170 metres below sea level
331
00:24:35,180 --> 00:24:37,580
and still sinking.
332
00:24:37,580 --> 00:24:41,740
The water feeding into the lake
is super-heated
333
00:24:41,740 --> 00:24:44,860
and shows how close they're getting
to the volcanic magma
334
00:24:44,860 --> 00:24:47,380
beneath the Earth's surface.
335
00:24:51,180 --> 00:24:53,780
But there's no time
to stop and explore
336
00:24:53,780 --> 00:24:55,860
and the team
is soon on the road again.
337
00:24:55,860 --> 00:24:58,460
The increasingly rough terrain
338
00:24:58,460 --> 00:25:00,940
means it will take them
another two days
339
00:25:00,940 --> 00:25:03,860
of hard driving
to get to the base of the crater.
340
00:25:10,060 --> 00:25:16,780
Back in Kusru Wad,
I'm getting a sense of how demanding
life for a woman here can be.
341
00:25:16,780 --> 00:25:21,620
I want to know what they think
about how they're treated in this
very male-dominated society.
342
00:25:21,620 --> 00:25:25,220
So far, they've been
reluctant to speak openly.
343
00:25:25,220 --> 00:25:31,420
Now, with the men out of sight,
Galissa's wife Myram has agreed to
talk to me. But we haven't got long.
344
00:25:31,420 --> 00:25:36,500
I know that you have talked about
345
00:25:36,500 --> 00:25:42,460
sometimes women getting very
stressed and worried about marriage,
346
00:25:42,460 --> 00:25:45,900
because they go into it
with so little knowledge.
347
00:25:45,900 --> 00:25:49,180
Did Myram's mother explain
348
00:25:49,180 --> 00:25:51,780
anything to her about...
349
00:25:51,780 --> 00:25:57,300
about what it was like to be a wife
and the prospect of having
sex for the first time?
350
00:25:57,300 --> 00:26:00,740
THEY SPEAK IN NATIVE TONGUE
351
00:26:01,740 --> 00:26:05,140
She said, "It's the same for
everybody in the world." She said,
352
00:26:05,140 --> 00:26:08,100
"The man's body is the thing
that makes you scared." Yeah.
353
00:26:08,100 --> 00:26:12,900
Yeah. She said,
"You're very frightened,
you can't be anything else."
354
00:26:12,900 --> 00:26:17,500
Talking about sex is a taboo here
and, within a matter of minutes,
355
00:26:17,500 --> 00:26:21,140
the men have got wind
of our conversation.
356
00:26:29,660 --> 00:26:32,060
It would be great
if these men weren't here.
357
00:26:38,220 --> 00:26:40,580
They're standing here
quite deliberately.
358
00:26:40,580 --> 00:26:42,100
Yeah.
359
00:26:47,220 --> 00:26:53,900
I'm so close to finding out
how these women really feel,
but the men are going nowhere.
360
00:26:53,900 --> 00:26:55,980
Shall we go inside,
would that be better?
361
00:27:04,140 --> 00:27:08,340
They say these men will try
and listen to every word.
362
00:27:08,340 --> 00:27:09,900
I know.
363
00:27:09,900 --> 00:27:13,060
I know. And it's going to
completely compromise her.
364
00:27:13,060 --> 00:27:14,940
I don't want to do that.
365
00:27:14,940 --> 00:27:20,500
The tension can be cut with a knife
and I have no choice but to give up,
366
00:27:20,500 --> 00:27:23,860
for fear of compromising Myram's
position within the community.
367
00:27:23,860 --> 00:27:29,300
But this deliberate intimidation
has really got under my skin.
368
00:27:29,300 --> 00:27:32,780
There's men everywhere just
listening in... "Don't you dare.
369
00:27:32,780 --> 00:27:35,100
"Don't you dare give away
our secrets."
370
00:27:35,660 --> 00:27:38,180
These women don't have a moment
371
00:27:38,180 --> 00:27:43,460
to express themselves, to just get
cross, to just throw something out.
372
00:27:43,460 --> 00:27:47,300
Maybe we're really spoilt but,
you know, we're allowed to shout
373
00:27:47,300 --> 00:27:49,860
and scream and rail
against things, and...
374
00:27:49,860 --> 00:27:51,300
and...
375
00:27:52,620 --> 00:27:54,220
Oh, it makes me cross.
376
00:28:02,900 --> 00:28:07,980
Just incredible women, and it would
have been really nice
377
00:28:07,980 --> 00:28:11,740
to be able to leave here
378
00:28:11,740 --> 00:28:15,380
feeling that we'd been able
to properly represent them.
379
00:28:19,660 --> 00:28:21,580
It's so frustrating.
380
00:28:24,780 --> 00:28:28,980
As a Western woman, I'm finding it
very hard to accept
381
00:28:28,980 --> 00:28:33,620
how little control Afar women have
over their daily lives.
382
00:28:33,620 --> 00:28:37,700
I'd like to do more to at
least give them a voice,
383
00:28:37,700 --> 00:28:41,340
but my concerns are suddenly
overshadowed by events
384
00:28:41,340 --> 00:28:44,060
elsewhere in the village.
385
00:28:44,060 --> 00:28:46,140
CHILDREN CRY
386
00:28:46,140 --> 00:28:50,060
News that Mukul is conducting
387
00:28:50,060 --> 00:28:53,460
daily health clinics
has spread far and fast.
388
00:28:53,460 --> 00:28:57,300
And while he struggles to cope with
the sudden demand,
389
00:28:57,300 --> 00:29:03,100
a family arrives, having walked
more than five hours in the heat,
390
00:29:03,100 --> 00:29:06,540
hoping that he will be
able save their malnourished child.
391
00:29:09,300 --> 00:29:12,820
So when this lad does any
running around, does he
get very short of breath?
392
00:29:18,860 --> 00:29:23,300
He said, "If he goes from here
to the door, he'll fall over.
He can't do it."
393
00:29:23,300 --> 00:29:26,140
He's got a very loud heart murmur..
394
00:29:26,140 --> 00:29:28,700
Has he? Oh, my golly.
395
00:29:28,700 --> 00:29:33,740
It's not Syed's diet that's
the problem. It's his heart.
396
00:29:33,740 --> 00:29:39,220
His heart is not working
as efficiently as it might
to pump the blood around.
397
00:29:39,220 --> 00:29:42,740
And he's working hard all the time,
it's like jogging all the time.
398
00:29:42,740 --> 00:29:49,500
Mukul is distraught that with only
his limited field kit, there's
no way he's able to treat Syed.
399
00:29:49,500 --> 00:29:52,140
This afternoon has
brought home the brutal truth of it.
400
00:29:54,300 --> 00:29:57,540
What must that be like for a parent
401
00:29:57,540 --> 00:30:01,740
to see your child dying and not
be able to do anything about it?
402
00:30:01,740 --> 00:30:03,660
It's a terrible, terrible thing.
403
00:30:03,660 --> 00:30:11,500
The normal reality of life
in the Danakil is that death
is often not very far away.
404
00:30:15,860 --> 00:30:19,740
Except for Syed
this week is different.
405
00:30:19,740 --> 00:30:22,500
Because Valerie is
here and has transport,
406
00:30:22,500 --> 00:30:28,420
she will be able to take him to
the nearest specialist hospital,
more than 500 kilometres away.
407
00:30:28,420 --> 00:30:31,540
And there's even room for Ayisha.
408
00:30:31,540 --> 00:30:35,860
She's taking with her Ayisha the
little girl who has the infection
409
00:30:35,860 --> 00:30:39,020
in her hip and Syed the toddler
with the hole in the heart.
410
00:30:39,020 --> 00:30:42,900
For the very first time they're
going to be leaving the village,
with their families,
411
00:30:42,900 --> 00:30:45,580
to get the treatment that hopefully
will save their lives.
412
00:30:45,580 --> 00:30:47,540
We're going to go and pick them up.
413
00:30:47,540 --> 00:30:54,980
'This is an incredible opportunity
for these children, one never
usually available to the Afar.'
414
00:30:54,980 --> 00:30:59,060
But while Ayisha and her family are
excited, the parents of Syed,
415
00:30:59,060 --> 00:31:02,660
the boy with heart problem,
are having second thoughts.
416
00:31:05,300 --> 00:31:09,180
Syed's parents have never
left their village and are so
417
00:31:09,180 --> 00:31:12,420
afraid of the outside world
that they're not sure they can go.
418
00:31:12,420 --> 00:31:16,460
A decision that could cost
their son his life.
419
00:31:19,580 --> 00:31:25,380
But in Afar culture there
is a strict social structure,
where the elders make the decisions.
420
00:31:27,380 --> 00:31:32,020
She was humming and ha-ing and
he turned to her and said,
I'm ordering you to go.
421
00:31:32,020 --> 00:31:35,060
Right. This is the way
they do it in Afar culture. Right.
422
00:31:35,060 --> 00:31:39,460
So does this mean now that she and
the child will come with you today?
423
00:31:39,460 --> 00:31:40,980
Yeah.
424
00:31:47,500 --> 00:31:54,140
In a way, it's the thing that we
have so completely lost in the West
which is that absolute respect
425
00:31:54,140 --> 00:31:59,780
for the elder members of the
community, whether you're directly
related to them or not.
426
00:31:59,780 --> 00:32:04,260
If that elder of the village speaks,
you have to do what they say
427
00:32:04,260 --> 00:32:09,020
unquestioningly
and that's what happened.
428
00:32:09,020 --> 00:32:12,740
With the decision made, the parents
have just a couple of minutes
429
00:32:12,740 --> 00:32:15,740
to gather their belongings
and say their goodbyes.
430
00:32:22,180 --> 00:32:25,460
OK, let's go, we've got to fly.
We've got to reach this loggia.
431
00:32:25,460 --> 00:32:29,180
For Syed and his parents
it's a journey into the unknown
432
00:32:29,180 --> 00:32:32,100
but hopefully one that will save
his life.
433
00:32:32,100 --> 00:32:33,660
I'll see you. Goodbye.
434
00:32:33,660 --> 00:32:37,380
'This has really highlighted
the dilemma of our contact
with the Afar.
435
00:32:37,380 --> 00:32:40,980
'How far should we get involved?
436
00:32:40,980 --> 00:32:44,900
'Many of the traditions
I've witnessed look unfair
437
00:32:44,900 --> 00:32:47,460
'and hard on the women especially,
438
00:32:47,460 --> 00:32:50,980
'but the strict
social order has a proven value.
439
00:32:50,980 --> 00:32:52,780
'It helps them to survive.'
440
00:32:55,460 --> 00:33:01,260
That little boy would certainly die
if they hadn't made that decision
and sent him away from the village.
441
00:33:15,260 --> 00:33:16,980
Bye-bye, Fatima.
442
00:33:16,980 --> 00:33:23,580
Having said my goodbyes to Valerie
and the kids, it's time for all of
us to take our leave of Kusru Wad.
443
00:33:23,580 --> 00:33:27,460
Because we're heading off to join
Dougal for the last great stage of
444
00:33:27,460 --> 00:33:30,740
his science mission
at the Erte Ale volcano...
445
00:33:33,660 --> 00:33:37,980
..where we will help
him create the first-ever 3D model
446
00:33:37,980 --> 00:33:40,140
of the inside of the crater,
447
00:33:40,140 --> 00:33:42,300
so that scientists the world over
448
00:33:42,300 --> 00:33:46,100
understand how the Earth's
crust here is breaking apart.
449
00:33:54,700 --> 00:33:58,380
The next morning,
we're off at first light.
450
00:33:58,380 --> 00:34:01,220
We're aiming to meet up
with the science team
451
00:34:01,220 --> 00:34:05,340
who've spent two days driving up
from the salt lake at Afdera.
452
00:34:09,340 --> 00:34:16,780
And after hours squashed into hot
sweaty 4x4s, the whole team
is together again at last.
453
00:34:21,140 --> 00:34:23,860
But our fun doesn't last long.
454
00:34:23,860 --> 00:34:26,940
Erte Ale base camp is
still a long way off.
455
00:34:26,940 --> 00:34:30,100
Will we miss the dust,
the sandstorms and the whirlwinds?
456
00:34:30,100 --> 00:34:34,300
I doubt it. We're heading that way
to the base of Erte Ale.
457
00:34:34,300 --> 00:34:37,060
There we'll be camping on lava,
a very different thing.
458
00:34:37,060 --> 00:34:39,100
It's the final leg of our adventure.
459
00:34:44,020 --> 00:34:48,580
Rumbling along at ten kilometres
an hour over the unrelenting lava
460
00:34:48,580 --> 00:34:53,740
fields, it takes two bone-shaking
hours to reach base camp.
461
00:34:58,140 --> 00:35:02,980
We're now at the base camp
for Erte Ale and the whole
team are back together.
462
00:35:02,980 --> 00:35:06,260
You can see them in the
background all catching up.
"What have you been up to?
463
00:35:06,260 --> 00:35:08,980
And just over there is our goal.
464
00:35:08,980 --> 00:35:12,060
There is Erte Ale, smoking away
and tomorrow morning,
465
00:35:12,060 --> 00:35:15,940
we're going to leave before the sun
comes up, walk through the grass.
466
00:35:15,940 --> 00:35:21,340
Grass! There's a novelty! Past
the trees, my goodness, all these
things we haven't seen for ten days.
467
00:35:21,340 --> 00:35:25,220
And across the lava flow, up to the
summit where we will spend a couple
468
00:35:25,220 --> 00:35:31,980
of nights, but for the moment it's
just really nice being down here,
no dust and a wonderful view.
469
00:35:32,940 --> 00:35:36,980
This is great, I love lava, me!
470
00:35:36,980 --> 00:35:42,100
I've just got so sick of the dust
and the dirt down in the river bed,
just a change of scene.
471
00:35:42,100 --> 00:35:45,780
I'm sure I'll grow to
hate it just as much
472
00:35:45,780 --> 00:35:51,300
over the next few days, because it's
a bit unsteady underfoot and my feet
still need a bit of time to recover.
473
00:35:51,300 --> 00:35:58,300
'For Dougal, waiting until
tomorrow to start the ascent is
almost more than he can bear.'
474
00:35:58,300 --> 00:36:02,860
I'm raring to go. I'm off on the
camel, I'm just going to get off on
one about midnight,
475
00:36:02,860 --> 00:36:07,260
I'll sneak around,
make sure everyone's asleep
and I'll see you guys up there.
476
00:36:08,260 --> 00:36:14,100
If Dougal can be restrained,
tomorrow should be a big day
for all of us.
477
00:36:33,740 --> 00:36:37,900
It's a pre-dawn start again,
as we are anxious to complete
478
00:36:37,900 --> 00:36:43,140
the 18-kilometre trek before the
scorching midday sun takes its toll.
479
00:36:51,300 --> 00:36:53,740
The sun's just come up
over the lava here
480
00:36:53,740 --> 00:36:56,580
and we're starting
to get our first proper views
481
00:36:56,580 --> 00:36:58,540
of this astonishing landscape.
482
00:36:58,540 --> 00:37:02,660
It's absolutely beautiful and
lovely to be walking again.
483
00:37:07,700 --> 00:37:11,580
As we approach the summit,
we find ourselves surrounded by
484
00:37:11,580 --> 00:37:16,660
clearer and clearer evidence of the
volcanic turmoil beneath our feet.
485
00:37:16,660 --> 00:37:18,740
You think you've got spot problems,
486
00:37:18,740 --> 00:37:21,220
but all away along the top
of this lava skin,
487
00:37:21,220 --> 00:37:24,700
you can see these big,
rippled-up spot-like features.
488
00:37:24,700 --> 00:37:27,420
You've got broken crusts of the skin
of the lava,
489
00:37:27,420 --> 00:37:30,060
these are literally
the zits of the lava world.
490
00:37:30,060 --> 00:37:34,740
All away along this top surface,
you've got these little pock-marks
pushing their way through.
491
00:37:34,740 --> 00:37:37,500
This is over-pressured lava,
pushing up through the skin,
492
00:37:37,500 --> 00:37:40,380
just like a spot on the top on
the skin surface of the lava.
493
00:37:40,380 --> 00:37:45,180
And
it erupts and pours a little bit of
lava out and that's your spot gone.
494
00:37:49,620 --> 00:37:54,100
Here we've found a big, solid
block that's actually broken
through the crust of this lava.
495
00:37:54,100 --> 00:37:56,460
There's an even bigger
one behind me there.
496
00:37:56,460 --> 00:37:58,580
These are volcanic bombs.
497
00:37:58,580 --> 00:38:01,620
That means there's been an
explosive eruption on the volcano.
498
00:38:01,620 --> 00:38:05,260
So occasionally, when the volcanic
system gets bunged up, it's almost
499
00:38:05,260 --> 00:38:08,380
like your nose is getting bunged up,
your sinuses.
500
00:38:08,380 --> 00:38:13,660
And eventually it breaks through,
you erupt and you blow stuff
out the top of the volcano.
501
00:38:13,660 --> 00:38:17,100
These things will have been
ejected high up into the sky
502
00:38:17,100 --> 00:38:19,780
and will have fallen down
to the ground with a bang.
503
00:38:24,140 --> 00:38:30,420
At last we find ourselves
on the home straight
to the summit of Erte Ale.
504
00:38:30,420 --> 00:38:36,380
After weeks of illness, hardship
and strain, baking
under the Ethiopian sun,
505
00:38:36,380 --> 00:38:40,820
we've finally reached
the climax of our science mission.
506
00:38:54,940 --> 00:38:58,700
It's huge. I feel like
I've just come to another planet.
507
00:38:58,700 --> 00:39:00,620
It's like a total moonscape.
508
00:39:00,620 --> 00:39:03,740
You can almost imagine a T-rex
hoving into view,
509
00:39:03,740 --> 00:39:05,860
or a pteradactyl swooping down.
510
00:39:05,860 --> 00:39:08,620
This is the land that time forgot.
511
00:39:08,620 --> 00:39:12,860
Wow. This whole rim round the side
must be the outer rim of the
volcano.
512
00:39:12,860 --> 00:39:17,340
Right. And this stuff in the middle
has sort of collapsed down.
513
00:39:17,340 --> 00:39:23,380
When the volcano built up
and erupted for the first time,
the centre bit would have collapsed.
514
00:39:23,380 --> 00:39:26,260
There are two
pits inside the great outer crater.
515
00:39:26,260 --> 00:39:32,500
The north pit is constantly belching
clouds of poisonous gas and is
what gives this place its name.
516
00:39:32,500 --> 00:39:35,220
Erte Ale means smoking mountain.
517
00:39:37,580 --> 00:39:40,700
But we're
heading for the south crater.
518
00:39:40,700 --> 00:39:46,820
It has an even deeper
central crater,
with a more sinister reputation.
519
00:39:46,820 --> 00:39:51,020
The Afar people believe it to be
the gateway to hell.
520
00:39:51,020 --> 00:39:54,740
Isn't it madness to be going
up to a live volcano?
521
00:39:54,740 --> 00:39:58,420
Surely this is the thing
that people flee from?
522
00:39:58,420 --> 00:40:02,420
Yeah. In some cases, we are
a little bit crazy going to them,
523
00:40:02,420 --> 00:40:06,820
but this is the type of volcano that
you can actually get some access to.
524
00:40:06,820 --> 00:40:09,940
Crazy or not, it is possible
to reach the inner rim,
525
00:40:09,940 --> 00:40:13,980
the perfect location to scan the
whole of the inside of the crater.
526
00:40:13,980 --> 00:40:19,020
We just have to cross a sea
of cooled lava to get there.
527
00:40:19,020 --> 00:40:21,900
The key is to be organised and to
plan ahead and to make sure
528
00:40:21,900 --> 00:40:24,340
that everything that happens
is predetermined
529
00:40:24,340 --> 00:40:27,060
and that things are not happening
quickly and out of control.
530
00:40:27,060 --> 00:40:28,900
Mack and Andy have made
this route safe.
531
00:40:28,900 --> 00:40:30,900
They've fixed the rope
down to the bottom.
532
00:40:30,900 --> 00:40:34,820
Now they have to prospect a
route across the lava, because
it's quite soft on the surface.
533
00:40:34,820 --> 00:40:39,660
Finding the right route
is the key to making this safe.
534
00:40:39,660 --> 00:40:41,540
This isn't solid rock.
535
00:40:41,540 --> 00:40:47,860
Beneath our feet
lava flows have left giant hollow
caverns lined with jagged rocks.
536
00:40:47,860 --> 00:40:53,100
We're about to walk across the
fragile roofs of these lava tubes,
but with a route marked out,
537
00:40:53,100 --> 00:40:58,140
we tentatively make our
way down to the inner rim.
538
00:41:02,780 --> 00:41:07,580
As we step gingerly on to the lava,
I'm constantly reminded
539
00:41:07,580 --> 00:41:12,580
of how fragile this surface is
by the sound of crunching feet.
540
00:41:12,580 --> 00:41:19,060
But soon all I can hear is what
sounds like waves on a beach.
There's the lower ledge.
541
00:41:21,340 --> 00:41:23,580
Oh, my God, look at that.
542
00:41:23,580 --> 00:41:25,100
Oh, my God.
543
00:41:30,660 --> 00:41:32,180
Oh, my goodness.
544
00:41:38,780 --> 00:41:44,700
'What sounds like the roar of
an ocean is in fact liquid rock.'
545
00:41:44,700 --> 00:41:48,580
Fantastic. Listen to that noise.
There's a bubble! Look at that!
546
00:41:57,260 --> 00:42:00,140
That's liquid rock.
547
00:42:00,140 --> 00:42:04,340
That's what I'm really
struggling to get my head round.
That is liquid rock.
548
00:42:04,340 --> 00:42:07,660
It's exactly the same as what we're
standing on. Now it's quite hard,
549
00:42:07,660 --> 00:42:12,740
but there it's molten rock.
Yeah. You can see how people have
mythologies around volcanoes.
550
00:42:12,740 --> 00:42:14,580
That is just not of this world.
551
00:42:14,580 --> 00:42:17,340
That is insane. Oh my word. Oh! Ooh!
552
00:42:17,340 --> 00:42:19,500
That's hot.
553
00:42:19,500 --> 00:42:21,780
And the stink of it as well.
554
00:42:21,780 --> 00:42:25,980
Is anyone else... Is it me just
imagining it, or do your feet feel
really hot?
555
00:42:25,980 --> 00:42:27,940
Yeah, yeah.
556
00:42:27,940 --> 00:42:30,700
You can feel the glow on your face.
557
00:42:30,700 --> 00:42:35,620
How do you know this isn't going
to blow? Well, I don't actually.
558
00:42:44,300 --> 00:42:46,180
I can't believe how active it is.
559
00:42:46,180 --> 00:42:49,540
Funnily enough it started bubbling
just as we walked up, almost as
560
00:42:49,540 --> 00:42:52,900
though it could sense us coming.
It's a bit like a pressure release.
561
00:42:52,900 --> 00:42:57,660
you open the top slightly on
a fizzy pop bottle and the gas
562
00:42:57,660 --> 00:43:01,700
starts to come out and that's what's
happening here, down in the crater.
563
00:43:01,700 --> 00:43:04,380
'It's not very often
you see something
564
00:43:04,380 --> 00:43:07,140
'that literally takes
your breath away.
565
00:43:07,140 --> 00:43:11,660
'But I'm completely overcome by
the might of this natural wonder.'
566
00:43:11,660 --> 00:43:13,580
I think probably all of us
567
00:43:13,580 --> 00:43:18,100
understood why the Afar think that
this is the gateway to hell.
568
00:43:18,100 --> 00:43:22,780
Because that's the only
imagery that I can think of that's
569
00:43:22,780 --> 00:43:26,540
anything like this, those sort
of storybook pictures of hell.
570
00:43:26,540 --> 00:43:28,700
That is wicked.
That is absolutely brilliant.
571
00:43:28,700 --> 00:43:32,340
I'm going home and painting my
bedroom black and orange.
572
00:43:32,340 --> 00:43:34,380
The 12-year-boy in me comes out.
573
00:43:34,380 --> 00:43:37,220
I want to stick things
in it and see if it burns.
574
00:43:40,500 --> 00:43:45,420
We've planned a two-stage assault
on the active part of the lava lake.
575
00:43:45,420 --> 00:43:49,100
First the climbing team will
rig a steel cable over the pit...
576
00:43:49,100 --> 00:43:50,940
Mark, do you read?
577
00:43:50,940 --> 00:43:53,340
..150 metres across.
578
00:43:55,900 --> 00:43:59,540
This will then be used to
lower the heavy test equipment
579
00:43:59,540 --> 00:44:01,500
on to the cooled crater floor.
580
00:44:01,500 --> 00:44:05,460
Meanwhile Dougal will abseil down
on to the lower shelf
581
00:44:05,460 --> 00:44:09,060
where hopefully he'll be able
to get a decent scan.
582
00:44:10,060 --> 00:44:15,460
But we're overlooking how long
all this is going to take.
583
00:44:15,460 --> 00:44:19,500
In all the excitement of getting
here, we neglected to make camp
584
00:44:19,500 --> 00:44:25,900
and now, with the sun high in the
sky, the welfare of the team must
take priority over the science.
585
00:44:25,900 --> 00:44:30,220
We should have nailed this
early-doors, but everyone was,
"Ooh," excited about the volcano.
586
00:44:30,220 --> 00:44:35,300
So temperatures are slightly rising
along with the ambient temperature.
587
00:44:35,300 --> 00:44:39,340
But I think we're getting there now.
I'll go and chill out in the shade.
588
00:44:39,980 --> 00:44:42,700
It was quite a logistical
feat, getting all our camera
589
00:44:42,700 --> 00:44:46,740
equipment which is here, and then
all our sort of personal stuff,
590
00:44:46,740 --> 00:44:50,180
which is scattered around because
we haven't had time to sort it out
591
00:44:50,180 --> 00:44:53,300
up here, 45 camels' worth of kit,
we've got,
592
00:44:53,300 --> 00:44:55,820
all had to be brought up, unloaded.
593
00:44:55,820 --> 00:45:01,260
And of course the camels can't
stay up here because there isn't
a thing for them to eat or drink.
594
00:45:01,260 --> 00:45:06,140
'But the camels brought us what we
need to make camp here for a couple
595
00:45:06,140 --> 00:45:10,900
'of days, long enough to do the job
thoroughly and above all safely.
596
00:45:10,900 --> 00:45:16,580
'And it also gives us the chance to
take a good look at the volcano
597
00:45:16,580 --> 00:45:18,940
'at the best possible time...
598
00:45:18,940 --> 00:45:20,460
'In the dark.'
599
00:45:30,020 --> 00:45:34,020
Mesmerising!
It's much more active now, isn't it?
600
00:45:34,020 --> 00:45:39,780
I think a lot of it is that you can't
see the incandescent glow when it's
daylight.
601
00:46:00,500 --> 00:46:04,900
It's day two down here at the
volcano, and after a frantic day
yesterday
602
00:46:04,900 --> 00:46:08,660
of rigging and recce-ing,
the real business can start today.
603
00:46:08,660 --> 00:46:12,900
Dougal and Steve are going to be
scanning the volcano to try and
604
00:46:12,900 --> 00:46:14,660
build up an amazing 3D map of it,
605
00:46:14,660 --> 00:46:17,060
something that's never been done
before.
606
00:46:17,060 --> 00:46:19,620
We've got a big day ahead of us.
607
00:46:19,620 --> 00:46:26,380
'To create a detailed 3D image,
geologist Steve has been placing
reflectors around the rim.
608
00:46:26,380 --> 00:46:29,380
'The scanner uses
these reference points
609
00:46:29,380 --> 00:46:33,340
'to piece together the 3D model
from the high definition imagery.'
610
00:46:33,340 --> 00:46:35,580
How are you getting on, Steve?
611
00:46:35,580 --> 00:46:37,900
We're getting on OK
at the moment actually.
612
00:46:37,900 --> 00:46:41,580
We've got ten reflectors to put out
in total and we've managed to get
613
00:46:41,580 --> 00:46:45,260
three of them right up to the edge so
far, so we're just slowly working
614
00:46:45,260 --> 00:46:48,380
our way around and in half
an hour or so, we should be done.
615
00:46:48,380 --> 00:46:52,980
As the last reflectors are put in
place, Dougal is getting the camera
616
00:46:52,980 --> 00:46:56,060
ready to scan this first part
of the 3D model,
617
00:46:56,060 --> 00:46:58,620
the outside edge of the crater.
618
00:46:58,620 --> 00:46:59,700
It's secure.
619
00:46:59,700 --> 00:47:03,380
This is going to be absolutely
amazing if we pull this off.
620
00:47:04,380 --> 00:47:10,540
To make the full 3D model, however,
he'll need to repeat the scan
from the bottom of the crater.
621
00:47:11,780 --> 00:47:15,300
So, while he sets
the scanning camera running,
622
00:47:15,300 --> 00:47:17,820
Mark, the head of the climbing team,
623
00:47:17,820 --> 00:47:21,780
is already roped up and hanging
over the edge of the pit.
624
00:47:21,780 --> 00:47:25,820
Mark wants to establish a secure
foothold in the lava wall so that
625
00:47:25,820 --> 00:47:30,020
all Dougal's scanning gear can be
lowered into the pit tomorrow.
626
00:47:32,620 --> 00:47:39,820
When our final job will be to get
Dougal into the heart of Erte
Ale's deepest, live crater.
627
00:47:47,380 --> 00:47:51,980
As night falls, everyone gathers to
look at the results of the rim scan.
628
00:47:51,980 --> 00:47:54,460
This is one of the
preliminary scans we've done.
629
00:47:54,460 --> 00:47:57,060
Oh, my God! There you go.
630
00:47:57,060 --> 00:48:01,460
'They're better than we had dared
hope, but this is just a beginning.
631
00:48:01,460 --> 00:48:09,260
'Without descending right into
the crater, we can't fill in
the missing parts of the model.'
632
00:48:09,260 --> 00:48:12,620
There's lots of space missing,
and we really need to get into
633
00:48:12,620 --> 00:48:15,980
into...that crater
to get the rest of that scan.
634
00:48:15,980 --> 00:48:17,660
Is that the A-frame?
LAUGHTER
635
00:48:19,220 --> 00:48:26,780
'The ultimate success,
or failure of this venture,
will be decided on our last day.'
636
00:48:35,540 --> 00:48:44,220
It's the final day at the volcano,
and Dougal's only chance to complete
his scan of the crater at Erte Ale.
637
00:48:45,780 --> 00:48:50,180
If we can help him achieve that,
he will be able to produce
638
00:48:50,180 --> 00:48:54,660
the first ever 3D model
of the inside of an active volcano.
639
00:48:54,660 --> 00:48:59,300
And that will help reveal
the state of the Earth's crust here
640
00:48:59,300 --> 00:49:01,860
in the process of breaking apart.
641
00:49:01,860 --> 00:49:07,420
Well, this may be Dougal's final
challenge, but it's also a final
challenge for our technical team,
642
00:49:07,420 --> 00:49:13,900
because somehow, someone has
got to film what Dougal's doing
down there at the crater edge.
643
00:49:13,900 --> 00:49:19,980
We've got our camera teams
perched all the way around the rim
edge, so we should be able to get
644
00:49:19,980 --> 00:49:28,620
views of every angle, as Dougal
takes one big step for mankind
right to the edge of the crater.
645
00:49:30,300 --> 00:49:34,620
'Everyone is aware that even
with the best preparations,
646
00:49:34,620 --> 00:49:39,540
'live volcanoes are unpredictable,
sometimes with fatal results.
647
00:49:39,540 --> 00:49:44,260
'Dougal is taking his life into his
hands. Though you'd never know it.'
648
00:49:44,260 --> 00:49:46,660
Well, see you, guys...
649
00:49:46,660 --> 00:49:49,900
Smoke me a kipper, I'll
be back for breakfast.
650
00:49:56,660 --> 00:50:00,700
Crumbling lava is never
the best anchor for a harness.
651
00:50:00,700 --> 00:50:06,220
And all Dougal can do is hope that
it doesn't give way as he descends.
652
00:50:06,220 --> 00:50:11,060
Once he's down, 80kg of
state-of-the-art scientific
equipment will have to follow.
653
00:50:12,700 --> 00:50:18,260
Ah, wow!
Clearly a fresh surface here.
654
00:50:21,220 --> 00:50:28,260
Roughly 50m of cooled lava
will separate Dougal's feet
from the magna chamber
655
00:50:28,260 --> 00:50:30,060
which feeds this volcano -
656
00:50:30,060 --> 00:50:33,420
just 50m between him
and 1,000 degrees Centigrade.
657
00:50:35,420 --> 00:50:38,900
The lava lake must go up and down
like a piston as it gets re-filled
658
00:50:38,900 --> 00:50:41,620
with magmas periodically
and then emptied.
659
00:50:41,620 --> 00:50:43,580
And when it fills to the
top of the lower crater,
660
00:50:43,580 --> 00:50:47,700
it will spill over and form
these lovely brand new lava flows.
661
00:50:47,700 --> 00:50:51,460
You can just see it
really is virgin lava flow.
662
00:50:51,460 --> 00:50:56,340
If Erte Ale suddenly decides that
today is the day for an eruption,
663
00:50:56,340 --> 00:50:58,700
there would be no time to escape.
664
00:50:58,700 --> 00:51:01,420
But there's a more immediate danger.
665
00:51:01,420 --> 00:51:05,420
Everywhere along this is riddled
with holes and hollows
666
00:51:05,420 --> 00:51:08,580
that our feet can just
fall through at a moment's notice.
667
00:51:08,580 --> 00:51:14,300
Wisely, Dougal has brought a thermal
imaging camera to help him
navigate a route.
668
00:51:14,300 --> 00:51:18,100
It's quite hard to see in this
sunlight, but there's a nice image.
669
00:51:18,100 --> 00:51:22,420
You can see the lines of the cracks
670
00:51:22,420 --> 00:51:25,420
and if we just focus our
spot height on them,
671
00:51:25,420 --> 00:51:27,980
you can see some of those spot
heights
672
00:51:27,980 --> 00:51:30,220
are in excess of 100 degrees
Centigrade.
673
00:51:30,220 --> 00:51:34,180
The hottest zones signify
the thinnest part of the surface.
674
00:51:34,180 --> 00:51:39,300
And Dougal slowly, carefully gives
them as wide a berth as possible.
675
00:51:48,420 --> 00:51:52,300
No-one has ever been able to map
an active volcano
676
00:51:52,300 --> 00:51:54,700
from right inside the crater.
677
00:51:57,700 --> 00:52:00,140
But now everything is in place
678
00:52:00,140 --> 00:52:03,460
to capture Erte Ale in three
dimensions.
679
00:52:03,460 --> 00:52:06,420
A snapshot in time for all eternity.
680
00:52:09,540 --> 00:52:11,820
OK, I'll go and get the...
681
00:52:11,820 --> 00:52:14,260
You'll have to level again
and I'll just check.
682
00:52:14,260 --> 00:52:16,140
The level. Just double check that.
683
00:52:16,140 --> 00:52:19,220
Then, I'll grab the camera for you.
684
00:52:19,220 --> 00:52:20,740
It's the level.
685
00:52:32,020 --> 00:52:35,940
With the scanner safely
running, Dougal wants one
686
00:52:35,940 --> 00:52:40,780
last critical piece of information
which could show that the lava lake
is becoming more active.
687
00:52:40,780 --> 00:52:44,100
The temperature of the lava.
688
00:52:47,820 --> 00:52:51,660
But to get a reading, he must be
physically close enough
689
00:52:51,660 --> 00:52:56,340
to the lava lake to throw
a temperature probe
into its molten heart.
690
00:52:56,340 --> 00:52:59,580
I'm getting a lot closer now.
691
00:53:00,580 --> 00:53:04,660
This guy really, really wants to
know how hot magma is, doesn't he?
He does.
692
00:53:04,660 --> 00:53:08,460
'He's walking on the least stable
part of the crust,
693
00:53:08,460 --> 00:53:12,460
'where it's most likely to collapse
under his weight.'
694
00:53:12,460 --> 00:53:14,580
There goes the helmet!
695
00:53:14,580 --> 00:53:16,820
You can see the lava lake now.
696
00:53:24,020 --> 00:53:26,580
He's getting right
close to the edge.
697
00:53:26,580 --> 00:53:28,460
I wonder what he can see now.
698
00:53:28,460 --> 00:53:31,180
I can go about another metre...
699
00:53:31,180 --> 00:53:33,140
then I'm on the edge.
700
00:53:33,140 --> 00:53:35,140
Looking over the lava lake.
701
00:53:39,740 --> 00:53:43,780
I don't know if he's going to
be able to throw that far enough.
I'm not sure.
702
00:53:44,780 --> 00:53:46,940
Everybody ready?
703
00:53:46,940 --> 00:53:49,020
Going to go for it.
704
00:53:49,020 --> 00:53:51,660
I'm going to throw this over...
705
00:53:51,660 --> 00:53:53,500
into the lava lake.
706
00:53:55,860 --> 00:54:01,140
One...two...three!
707
00:54:01,140 --> 00:54:02,820
Yay!
708
00:54:05,580 --> 00:54:07,820
The temperature's starting to go up.
709
00:54:09,340 --> 00:54:11,420
I can't see where it's got to.
710
00:54:15,660 --> 00:54:19,140
'It looks like a good throw,
but there's a problem.'
711
00:54:25,100 --> 00:54:27,980
With the cable we've got,
stuck on the rocks,
712
00:54:27,980 --> 00:54:29,980
OK, that's the story of my life.
713
00:54:33,420 --> 00:54:36,020
Well, there's not
a great deal I can do now.
714
00:54:37,660 --> 00:54:41,580
It appears that the lava
lake has defeated us.
715
00:54:41,580 --> 00:54:45,780
It's so difficult to measure
the temperature of such a
phenomenon.
716
00:54:45,780 --> 00:54:49,620
We can't get our thermometer in
because the crust is too far,
717
00:54:49,620 --> 00:54:53,380
and my throw is rubbish so I'm going
to have to abandon that expedition
718
00:54:53,380 --> 00:54:57,740
and get back to a safe area...
719
00:54:57,740 --> 00:54:59,900
and go from there.
720
00:55:04,540 --> 00:55:08,500
For today, Dougal will have to
be satisfied with one remarkable
721
00:55:08,500 --> 00:55:13,060
scientific first, a groundbreaking
three-dimensional scan.
722
00:55:13,060 --> 00:55:15,420
Well, it was a valiant effort.
723
00:55:15,420 --> 00:55:18,260
It was definitely a valiant effort.
LAUGHTER
724
00:55:18,260 --> 00:55:21,020
It was a bit of a crap throw,
it has to be said.
725
00:55:21,020 --> 00:55:23,820
But at least he's got the scan
and that's the main thing.
726
00:55:23,820 --> 00:55:27,740
So at the end of this, we will see
the most perfect 3D image
727
00:55:27,740 --> 00:55:31,300
of this crater ever produced,
which is fantastic.
728
00:55:31,300 --> 00:55:34,780
And, you know, the magma will
just have to remain a mystery.
729
00:55:34,780 --> 00:55:38,500
Yeah, I think it's not
the biggest disappointment.
730
00:55:38,500 --> 00:55:42,140
It gives him something to come
back to and try later. Absolutely.
731
00:55:42,140 --> 00:55:44,260
Come back, Dougal! All is forgiven!
732
00:55:59,660 --> 00:56:01,540
Well done! That was amazing.
733
00:56:01,540 --> 00:56:05,260
The scan, we nailed it, so the scan's
in the bag. That's pretty good.
734
00:56:05,260 --> 00:56:07,380
Hats off to the volcano and, er...
735
00:56:07,380 --> 00:56:10,340
Cheers, mate! Whoo!
736
00:56:12,020 --> 00:56:15,220
Getting the scanner equipment out
here has been a major goals.
737
00:56:15,220 --> 00:56:18,020
We've traipsed it over
the whole of the Afar triangle,
738
00:56:18,020 --> 00:56:21,820
with camels, with 4x4s, with
stuck 4x4s, with camels on strike.
739
00:56:21,820 --> 00:56:27,500
And to come away now knowing
that we've pretty much nailed
740
00:56:27,500 --> 00:56:30,460
the first ever scan of Erte Ale
in high resolution 3D,
741
00:56:30,460 --> 00:56:33,380
that we'll be able to view,
it's going to be superb.
742
00:56:33,380 --> 00:56:35,940
The momentous events of today
743
00:56:35,940 --> 00:56:40,420
mark the climax of our journey
to this unforgettable land.
744
00:56:42,380 --> 00:56:45,540
This has been most extraordinary
journey, culminating here
745
00:56:45,540 --> 00:56:49,260
at the crater and, you know, our
final challenge was,
746
00:56:49,260 --> 00:56:55,700
"Could Dougal get down and do that
last scan that was going to build up
the perfect 3D picture?"
747
00:56:55,700 --> 00:56:57,500
And he's done it. It's brilliant.
748
00:56:58,620 --> 00:57:04,900
And this is it.
The first ever 3D model of
the inside of an active volcano.
749
00:57:04,900 --> 00:57:09,660
A unique snapshot in the life of
this - the world's oldest lava lake.
750
00:57:16,980 --> 00:57:21,060
For the world's science community
it offers much more.
751
00:57:21,060 --> 00:57:28,020
It captures an apocalyptic,
geological process that has never
been observed in action before.
752
00:57:28,020 --> 00:57:31,700
The gradual fragmenting
of the Earth's crust,
753
00:57:31,700 --> 00:57:35,780
which will lead ultimately
to the birth of a new ocean.
754
00:57:37,300 --> 00:57:40,660
It's a drama that will play
out over millions of years,
755
00:57:40,660 --> 00:57:45,020
forming the backdrop to the lives of
the people here in the Rift Valley
756
00:57:45,020 --> 00:57:47,220
as it has since the dawn of mankind.
757
00:57:50,180 --> 00:57:57,340
With our science mission
accomplished, we return to our
Afar hosts for one last thank you.
758
00:57:57,340 --> 00:57:59,980
It's all kicking off already.
THEY CLAP
759
00:58:02,580 --> 00:58:07,980
And, as special guests at a village
wedding, we find ourselves
honoured beyond words.
760
00:58:09,940 --> 00:58:11,260
I haven't got a stick.
761
00:58:14,580 --> 00:58:18,500
It's a fitting end to this
journey of a lifetime
762
00:58:18,500 --> 00:58:20,940
to the hottest place on Earth.
763
00:58:20,940 --> 00:58:23,100
What an amazing country!
764
00:58:23,100 --> 00:58:27,140
You know, the ups and downs
of this whole trip.
765
00:58:27,140 --> 00:58:31,580
Some of the things we tried
to achieve that we didn't do,
some that went really well,
766
00:58:31,580 --> 00:58:33,980
but the people,
the landscape and everything.
767
00:58:33,980 --> 00:58:36,980
Hard as nails, absolutely fantastic.
72344
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