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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:01,235 --> 00:00:02,903 NARRATOR: Lying in South Africa's heartland 2 00:00:02,903 --> 00:00:05,138 is a mystical world. 3 00:00:05,138 --> 00:00:08,508 A land of extremes, 4 00:00:08,508 --> 00:00:13,881 where high, barren peaks border rich, rolling grasslands. 5 00:00:18,252 --> 00:00:21,255 Giants soar in the skies, 6 00:00:21,255 --> 00:00:26,126 and the most vulnerable seek shelter. 7 00:00:28,495 --> 00:00:33,100 The vast mountain range poses a constant danger 8 00:00:33,100 --> 00:00:36,436 and a daily challenge. 9 00:00:38,438 --> 00:00:44,144 But for those that have adapted, it's home. 10 00:00:50,050 --> 00:00:54,554 Still, even for the mightiest, life is never easy 11 00:00:54,554 --> 00:00:58,892 in the Drakensberg's barrier of spears. 12 00:01:00,160 --> 00:01:02,596 ♪ ♪ 13 00:01:30,257 --> 00:01:31,925 NARRATOR: The Zulu people 14 00:01:31,925 --> 00:01:34,928 who live along the eastern shadow of the mountain range 15 00:01:34,928 --> 00:01:40,434 call it Ukhahlamba-- the Barrier of Spears. 16 00:01:42,669 --> 00:01:44,938 The first Dutch settlers 17 00:01:44,938 --> 00:01:47,307 to drive their ox-wagons into the foothills 18 00:01:47,307 --> 00:01:52,913 named it the Drakensberg-- the Dragon's Mountain. 19 00:01:57,050 --> 00:02:00,053 Both names are still in use today, 20 00:02:00,053 --> 00:02:05,292 but most South Africans simply refer to it as the Berg-- 21 00:02:05,292 --> 00:02:07,227 the Mountain. 22 00:02:09,629 --> 00:02:12,065 Regardless of what it is called, 23 00:02:12,065 --> 00:02:16,269 the gargantuan sequence of peaks that divides Kwazulu-Natal 24 00:02:16,269 --> 00:02:19,339 from the cloud-reaching Kingdom of Lesotho 25 00:02:19,339 --> 00:02:25,479 is among the most impressive landscapes in South Africa. 26 00:02:28,482 --> 00:02:33,653 The Drakensberg mountain range extends more than 550 miles 27 00:02:33,653 --> 00:02:37,357 across southern Africa. 28 00:02:37,357 --> 00:02:44,498 It encompasses massive sandstone buttresses, 29 00:02:44,498 --> 00:02:49,770 grass-covered slopes, 30 00:02:49,770 --> 00:02:55,776 and two mile high cathedral-like rock towers. 31 00:02:55,776 --> 00:03:00,247 Dangerous thunderstorms can gather in a matter of moments. 32 00:03:00,247 --> 00:03:04,084 (thunder rumbling) 33 00:03:06,787 --> 00:03:09,122 And a mighty waterfall plummets 34 00:03:09,122 --> 00:03:11,591 more than 3,000 feet from its cliffs. 35 00:03:17,464 --> 00:03:19,599 The mountains' rugged character 36 00:03:19,599 --> 00:03:24,137 is paired with stunning natural beauty, 37 00:03:24,137 --> 00:03:29,576 and surviving here requires the ability to adapt 38 00:03:29,576 --> 00:03:33,146 and use the mountain to your advantage. 39 00:03:39,119 --> 00:03:43,523 Overnight temperatures regularly drop below freezing, 40 00:03:43,523 --> 00:03:46,259 so for many mountain residents, 41 00:03:46,259 --> 00:03:50,297 the rising sun is their cue to get moving. 42 00:03:50,297 --> 00:03:53,433 The Drakensberg is home 43 00:03:53,433 --> 00:03:56,536 to a number of species of birds of prey. 44 00:03:56,536 --> 00:04:00,273 Soaring high over the mountain, 45 00:04:00,273 --> 00:04:05,712 they glide vast distances along the many peaks and cliffs. 46 00:04:08,849 --> 00:04:12,586 But one species requires a little more assistance 47 00:04:12,586 --> 00:04:15,722 to get airborne. 48 00:04:15,722 --> 00:04:20,560 The Cape vulture is not an early riser. 49 00:04:20,560 --> 00:04:24,364 One of the most widely spread scavengers on the mountain, 50 00:04:24,364 --> 00:04:26,399 you don't see them out and about 51 00:04:26,399 --> 00:04:29,769 until the sun is well above the horizon 52 00:04:29,769 --> 00:04:32,539 and the thermals are strong enough 53 00:04:32,539 --> 00:04:35,375 to get them, and keep them, airborne. 54 00:04:39,846 --> 00:04:42,682 Highly sociable, they nest and roost 55 00:04:42,682 --> 00:04:45,752 in large colonies along the cliffs, 56 00:04:45,752 --> 00:04:47,287 where they sit and wait 57 00:04:47,287 --> 00:04:49,756 for the first air currents of the day 58 00:04:49,756 --> 00:04:51,725 to rise up the mountainside. 59 00:04:51,725 --> 00:04:55,762 On still days, they may not take off at all; 60 00:04:55,762 --> 00:05:02,302 at almost 22 pounds they are just too heavy. 61 00:05:02,302 --> 00:05:04,371 But when the conditions are right, 62 00:05:04,371 --> 00:05:07,440 they launch themselves off the cliffs. 63 00:05:17,317 --> 00:05:20,820 ♪ ♪ 64 00:05:41,641 --> 00:05:43,410 Making use of updrafts 65 00:05:43,410 --> 00:05:46,379 produced as wind blows over the mountain ridges, 66 00:05:46,379 --> 00:05:51,117 they fly back and forth to gain height. 67 00:05:54,621 --> 00:06:00,193 Once up, the vultures flap as little as possible. 68 00:06:00,193 --> 00:06:02,295 They have a special arrangement of muscles 69 00:06:02,295 --> 00:06:05,565 that enables them to lock their wings, 70 00:06:05,565 --> 00:06:08,635 keeping them extended in the soaring position 71 00:06:08,635 --> 00:06:10,403 for hours at a time. 72 00:06:12,706 --> 00:06:15,342 Using thermals decreases the need 73 00:06:15,342 --> 00:06:17,844 to flap their huge, three-feet-long wings, 74 00:06:17,844 --> 00:06:21,448 meaning the birds use three times less energy 75 00:06:21,448 --> 00:06:24,317 than they would need for flapping. 76 00:06:30,457 --> 00:06:35,462 Vultures coast and soar with so little wasted effort, 77 00:06:35,462 --> 00:06:38,898 they can range over a distance of almost 90 miles 78 00:06:38,898 --> 00:06:42,235 on a good day. 79 00:06:42,235 --> 00:06:46,473 As scavengers, they feed mostly on carrion. 80 00:06:49,009 --> 00:06:51,378 When searching for food, 81 00:06:51,378 --> 00:06:54,614 they form a foraging net across the sky, 82 00:06:54,614 --> 00:06:57,884 watching each other as they search large areas 83 00:06:57,884 --> 00:07:00,253 to locate a suitable carcass. 84 00:07:04,324 --> 00:07:08,361 This can require traveling great distances. 85 00:07:10,797 --> 00:07:15,502 When they spot a potential meal, Cape vultures can swoop down, 86 00:07:15,502 --> 00:07:18,004 circling in a two-and-a-half mile radius 87 00:07:18,004 --> 00:07:20,940 and dropping 980 feet to the ground 88 00:07:20,940 --> 00:07:23,943 in less than six minutes. 89 00:07:25,945 --> 00:07:28,715 These heavy birds have evolved 90 00:07:28,715 --> 00:07:31,985 to use the updrafts and thermals created by the warming sun 91 00:07:31,985 --> 00:07:36,856 to master the skies over the Drakensberg. 92 00:07:40,927 --> 00:07:44,397 Cape vultures are one of a number of species 93 00:07:44,397 --> 00:07:47,667 that soar between the peaks. 94 00:07:47,667 --> 00:07:51,905 Lammergeyers, black eagles, 95 00:07:51,905 --> 00:07:56,476 and harrier hawks are all found here. 96 00:07:56,476 --> 00:08:01,981 And for many on the mountain, they pose a constant threat. 97 00:08:05,352 --> 00:08:09,422 As rocks warm in the morning, cold-blooded reptiles 98 00:08:09,422 --> 00:08:14,027 use the sun's heat as an energy source. 99 00:08:16,830 --> 00:08:19,966 The rocky outcrops of the Drakensberg 100 00:08:19,966 --> 00:08:22,836 provide a refuge for many lizards, 101 00:08:22,836 --> 00:08:28,041 and the ideal spot for basking. 102 00:08:28,041 --> 00:08:32,579 Lizards control their body temperature 103 00:08:32,579 --> 00:08:37,517 through a process known as thermoregulation. 104 00:08:40,553 --> 00:08:42,655 They use the environment 105 00:08:42,655 --> 00:08:47,594 to raise and lower their body temperature. 106 00:08:52,999 --> 00:08:57,437 Either by basking in full sunlight 107 00:08:57,437 --> 00:09:00,073 or by sheltering under a rock. 108 00:09:08,481 --> 00:09:12,085 The mountains are home to some striking species. 109 00:09:16,823 --> 00:09:19,159 These speckled rock skinks 110 00:09:19,159 --> 00:09:21,728 seem to almost enjoy their sunbathing 111 00:09:21,728 --> 00:09:23,997 despite the threat from above. 112 00:09:27,033 --> 00:09:30,170 A lower transparent eyelid 113 00:09:30,170 --> 00:09:33,173 provides a window for the lizards to peep through 114 00:09:33,173 --> 00:09:36,476 while closing their eyes, 115 00:09:36,476 --> 00:09:38,611 an evolutionary adaptation 116 00:09:38,611 --> 00:09:41,414 offering protection to the skinks' eyes 117 00:09:41,414 --> 00:09:45,919 as well as allowing them to stay alert to predators. 118 00:09:47,921 --> 00:09:50,056 Camouflage is crucial 119 00:09:50,056 --> 00:09:52,625 when you have to lie out in the open 120 00:09:52,625 --> 00:09:57,530 for long periods, unable to make a quick getaway. 121 00:09:57,530 --> 00:10:01,968 It allows this southern rock agama to blend in, 122 00:10:01,968 --> 00:10:06,673 making it harder to spot from above. 123 00:10:06,673 --> 00:10:09,209 The Drakensberg's lizards 124 00:10:09,209 --> 00:10:12,579 are not the only creatures that depend on the sun. 125 00:10:16,616 --> 00:10:21,621 A large mole snake has been warming up in the grasslands. 126 00:10:21,621 --> 00:10:26,693 Being cold-blooded, they too must heat up 127 00:10:26,693 --> 00:10:31,664 before they can perform their regular reptilian activities. 128 00:10:31,664 --> 00:10:35,602 Most days, this means finding a meal. 129 00:10:39,839 --> 00:10:44,577 Up on the exposed surface, it is now a balancing act 130 00:10:44,577 --> 00:10:47,247 between gaining enough warmth from the sun, 131 00:10:47,247 --> 00:10:49,015 while at the same time 132 00:10:49,015 --> 00:10:51,718 having to deal with a chilling wind. 133 00:10:55,488 --> 00:10:59,826 It's a slow start to the day. 134 00:10:59,826 --> 00:11:02,762 A cold snake cannot hunt. 135 00:11:14,607 --> 00:11:18,878 They feed predominantly on small warm-blooded mammals 136 00:11:18,878 --> 00:11:22,248 such as rats, mice, and moles. 137 00:11:22,248 --> 00:11:25,885 They are not venomous. 138 00:11:25,885 --> 00:11:30,223 Instead, they constrict their prey with powerful coils, 139 00:11:30,223 --> 00:11:34,027 which they wrap around the unfortunate rodents. 140 00:11:38,164 --> 00:11:40,033 Once fully charged, 141 00:11:40,033 --> 00:11:43,836 the three-foot-long serpent heads off in search of a meal. 142 00:11:54,814 --> 00:11:58,184 It pays to make the most of the sun when it's out. 143 00:11:58,184 --> 00:12:04,190 (thunder rumbling) 144 00:12:04,190 --> 00:12:07,026 The weather can change in a matter of hours 145 00:12:07,026 --> 00:12:08,962 on the mountain. 146 00:12:08,962 --> 00:12:11,898 At this altitude, days and nights 147 00:12:11,898 --> 00:12:16,836 can be bitterly cold, often dropping below freezing. 148 00:12:19,205 --> 00:12:23,543 To survive here, it is vital you keep warm. 149 00:12:28,348 --> 00:12:30,216 The Cape rock hyrax 150 00:12:30,216 --> 00:12:35,588 live in large colonies of up to 25 animals 151 00:12:35,588 --> 00:12:39,225 among the crags and boulders of the Drakensberg. 152 00:12:39,225 --> 00:12:43,596 And there is nothing they enjoy more 153 00:12:43,596 --> 00:12:46,199 than a spot of sunbathing. 154 00:12:56,943 --> 00:12:59,579 ♪ ♪ 155 00:13:16,729 --> 00:13:22,735 Once warm, the colony begins to forage. 156 00:13:22,735 --> 00:13:26,773 Their mountain home provides all the food they need. 157 00:13:37,383 --> 00:13:39,686 But on a warm day, 158 00:13:39,686 --> 00:13:43,156 predators patrol the skies above the Drakensberg. 159 00:14:03,743 --> 00:14:07,814 The hyraxes are exposed, vulnerable, 160 00:14:07,814 --> 00:14:10,650 but they are always alert to danger. 161 00:14:21,127 --> 00:14:23,930 The black eagle dives. 162 00:14:30,203 --> 00:14:31,637 (squeaking loudly) 163 00:14:35,708 --> 00:14:38,411 The more pairs of eyes, the better. 164 00:14:38,411 --> 00:14:42,048 Up here, working as a team can be the difference 165 00:14:42,048 --> 00:14:44,951 between life and death. 166 00:14:46,419 --> 00:14:48,087 Living in large groups 167 00:14:48,087 --> 00:14:51,891 has provided the hyrax with the security they need 168 00:14:51,891 --> 00:14:55,895 to survive the slopes of the Drakensberg. 169 00:14:58,731 --> 00:15:00,900 But not all of the Drakensberg's mammals 170 00:15:00,900 --> 00:15:05,238 have chosen communal living as a survival method. 171 00:15:07,740 --> 00:15:11,210 Some have opted for a life of solitude 172 00:15:11,210 --> 00:15:16,482 and use the cover of darkness to their advantage. 173 00:15:16,482 --> 00:15:17,650 On the grasslands below, 174 00:15:17,650 --> 00:15:24,924 one of the mountain's most secretive residents emerges: 175 00:15:24,924 --> 00:15:27,126 a climbing mouse. 176 00:15:27,126 --> 00:15:32,999 At a little over two inches long, it is minute. 177 00:15:32,999 --> 00:15:35,868 Living in the shadow of the mountain, 178 00:15:35,868 --> 00:15:39,972 it inhabits the savanna, feeding on grasses. 179 00:15:44,143 --> 00:15:49,549 A long prehensile tail and specially adapted toes 180 00:15:49,549 --> 00:15:51,417 help them climb stalks 181 00:15:51,417 --> 00:15:54,487 to reach the succulent seeds at the top. 182 00:16:12,905 --> 00:16:19,011 In this mighty landscape, they can easily be overlooked. 183 00:16:23,883 --> 00:16:27,486 But the Drakensberg has supported the great and small 184 00:16:27,486 --> 00:16:30,990 throughout its history. 185 00:16:33,826 --> 00:16:37,063 The story of how this extraordinary mountain range 186 00:16:37,063 --> 00:16:41,934 got to be here begins around three billion years ago, 187 00:16:41,934 --> 00:16:46,072 when this landmass was part of a supercontinent 188 00:16:46,072 --> 00:16:48,908 known as Gondwana. 189 00:16:48,908 --> 00:16:53,079 Scientists believe that at that time, 190 00:16:53,079 --> 00:16:56,082 a massive lake covered the granite foundation 191 00:16:56,082 --> 00:16:59,886 on which the mountain now stands. 192 00:16:59,886 --> 00:17:02,421 Over the course of millions of years, 193 00:17:02,421 --> 00:17:07,093 runoff carried sand and mud into the lake, 194 00:17:07,093 --> 00:17:10,529 where it settled into sedimentary layers 195 00:17:10,529 --> 00:17:15,434 that hardened under the compacting weight. 196 00:17:15,434 --> 00:17:17,536 This process carried on 197 00:17:17,536 --> 00:17:21,474 until several hundred million years ago. 198 00:17:21,474 --> 00:17:25,177 The youngest of these sedimentary layers 199 00:17:25,177 --> 00:17:27,146 now lies exposed in the cliffs 200 00:17:27,146 --> 00:17:30,983 at the base of the Drakensberg range. 201 00:17:30,983 --> 00:17:35,655 Then, around 160 million years ago, 202 00:17:35,655 --> 00:17:38,958 immense pressure deep within the Earth 203 00:17:38,958 --> 00:17:42,028 caused Gondwana to split apart. 204 00:17:44,630 --> 00:17:47,266 The slowly drifting tectonic plates 205 00:17:47,266 --> 00:17:50,002 formed the continents of today. 206 00:17:52,138 --> 00:17:56,909 In this period of great change, vast lava flows poured out 207 00:17:56,909 --> 00:17:59,545 through fractures in the Earth's crust, 208 00:17:59,545 --> 00:18:03,582 hardening into layers of basalt. 209 00:18:08,287 --> 00:18:13,559 Over about 20 million years, the basalt deposits grew to be 210 00:18:13,559 --> 00:18:15,561 nearly a mile thick 211 00:18:15,561 --> 00:18:18,397 over the sandstone below. 212 00:18:18,397 --> 00:18:21,534 The results were majestic. 213 00:18:27,039 --> 00:18:31,010 When the lava flows stopped, it halted the construction 214 00:18:31,010 --> 00:18:33,713 of this extraordinary mountain range, 215 00:18:33,713 --> 00:18:39,452 and a slow process of wearing away began. 216 00:18:43,456 --> 00:18:45,458 Along the escarpment, 217 00:18:45,458 --> 00:18:48,260 erosion often follows fracture planes 218 00:18:48,260 --> 00:18:50,062 that form deep within the rock. 219 00:18:53,132 --> 00:18:56,736 As the rocks crumble along these planes, 220 00:18:56,736 --> 00:18:59,505 broad cliff faces form, 221 00:18:59,505 --> 00:19:02,274 sometimes extending in a straight line 222 00:19:02,274 --> 00:19:04,577 for many miles. 223 00:19:07,680 --> 00:19:11,584 Higher still, much of the hard basalt 224 00:19:11,584 --> 00:19:13,619 has long since been whittled down 225 00:19:13,619 --> 00:19:17,490 by time and the elements. 226 00:19:17,490 --> 00:19:21,327 Blocks and slabs were shorn away, 227 00:19:21,327 --> 00:19:25,698 then pulverized over centuries of weathering, 228 00:19:25,698 --> 00:19:30,603 or were swallowed by the Drakensberg's deep ravines. 229 00:19:33,773 --> 00:19:39,578 Now, only towering peaks remain, a chain of sentinels 230 00:19:39,578 --> 00:19:42,715 keeping watch over the landscape. 231 00:19:45,151 --> 00:19:48,621 The debris from this long process 232 00:19:48,621 --> 00:19:51,524 has been churned into a black soil 233 00:19:51,524 --> 00:19:55,261 that supports the grasses, covering the slopes below. 234 00:20:00,199 --> 00:20:04,670 From every vantage point, this barrier of spears 235 00:20:04,670 --> 00:20:07,273 bears the scars of the powerful forces 236 00:20:07,273 --> 00:20:10,109 that have shaped it through the ages. 237 00:20:10,109 --> 00:20:15,147 But the Drakensberg too is a force, 238 00:20:15,147 --> 00:20:18,350 and has an impact on the surrounding landscape. 239 00:20:18,350 --> 00:20:25,324 For this reason, it is also known by another name: 240 00:20:25,324 --> 00:20:28,594 the Creator of Rivers. 241 00:20:39,805 --> 00:20:44,310 High rainfall combined with winter snow 242 00:20:44,310 --> 00:20:48,214 and porous basalt rock makes the Drakensberg 243 00:20:48,214 --> 00:20:52,318 the most important watershed in southern Africa. 244 00:20:52,318 --> 00:20:57,590 It's the source of several significant rivers, 245 00:20:57,590 --> 00:21:00,793 including South Africa's two largest: 246 00:21:00,793 --> 00:21:06,198 the west-flowing Orange, which runs over 1,300 miles 247 00:21:06,198 --> 00:21:10,102 before emptying into the Atlantic Ocean; 248 00:21:10,102 --> 00:21:13,139 and the east-flowing Thukela, 249 00:21:13,139 --> 00:21:16,876 which flows over 300 miles in the opposite direction 250 00:21:16,876 --> 00:21:19,778 before it reaches the east coast. 251 00:21:22,181 --> 00:21:24,850 Up to 6-1/2 feet of rain 252 00:21:24,850 --> 00:21:29,788 can fall on the high plateau in a single year. 253 00:21:29,788 --> 00:21:32,892 There is snow cover for four months of the year 254 00:21:32,892 --> 00:21:38,764 in protected gullies and in south-facing slopes. 255 00:21:38,764 --> 00:21:42,768 Mists shroud the peaks, 256 00:21:42,768 --> 00:21:45,771 strong winds batter their summits... 257 00:21:45,771 --> 00:21:48,274 (thunder rumbling) 258 00:21:48,274 --> 00:21:50,843 ...and torrential thunderstorms regularly build 259 00:21:50,843 --> 00:21:52,411 during the summer months. 260 00:21:55,147 --> 00:22:01,754 The lifeblood of the Drakensberg combines and overflows, 261 00:22:01,754 --> 00:22:03,923 pouring off the mountain. 262 00:22:03,923 --> 00:22:08,260 Nowhere is this more impressive than at the Thukela falls. 263 00:22:10,663 --> 00:22:14,166 With a total drop of over 3,000 feet, 264 00:22:14,166 --> 00:22:17,403 it is the highest waterfall in Africa 265 00:22:17,403 --> 00:22:19,805 and the second highest in the world. 266 00:22:23,842 --> 00:22:25,411 It is so high that 267 00:22:25,411 --> 00:22:27,680 by the time the water has reached the bottom, 268 00:22:27,680 --> 00:22:35,454 much of it has turned into mist, disappearing into thin air. 269 00:22:40,259 --> 00:22:41,794 From their very beginning, 270 00:22:41,794 --> 00:22:43,696 the Drakensberg's rivers support life 271 00:22:43,696 --> 00:22:46,599 despite the harsh conditions. 272 00:22:46,599 --> 00:22:50,269 River frogs embrace the cold. 273 00:22:50,269 --> 00:22:52,871 Living in high altitude streams, 274 00:22:52,871 --> 00:22:55,407 some even spend the winter months sheltered 275 00:22:55,407 --> 00:22:56,709 under a layer of ice. 276 00:23:00,980 --> 00:23:04,984 Freshwater crabs breed successfully, 277 00:23:04,984 --> 00:23:08,821 populating the waterways. 278 00:23:15,327 --> 00:23:17,730 ♪ ♪ 279 00:23:35,881 --> 00:23:41,754 And the abundance of life attracts visitors. 280 00:23:41,754 --> 00:23:45,858 A lone black stork feeds along a river 281 00:23:45,858 --> 00:23:49,995 on one of the high plateaus. 282 00:23:49,995 --> 00:23:54,033 These migratory birds are attracted to the mountain 283 00:23:54,033 --> 00:23:57,369 as they make their way north. 284 00:23:59,605 --> 00:24:01,273 An African spoonbill 285 00:24:01,273 --> 00:24:06,779 has also made its way up from the plains below. 286 00:24:09,648 --> 00:24:11,450 The rich, fertile lands 287 00:24:11,450 --> 00:24:16,288 provide a wealth of feeding opportunities for them both, 288 00:24:16,288 --> 00:24:20,292 with frogs and crabs being favored items 289 00:24:20,292 --> 00:24:22,961 on the stork's menu-- 290 00:24:22,961 --> 00:24:27,933 the perfect pit stop on their annual migration. 291 00:24:40,412 --> 00:24:44,416 As the waterways flow further down the mountain, 292 00:24:44,416 --> 00:24:47,553 they finally spread out into the vast grasslands 293 00:24:47,553 --> 00:24:50,823 surrounding its peaks. 294 00:24:55,928 --> 00:24:58,831 Despite looking like one homogenous mass, 295 00:24:58,831 --> 00:25:01,667 these plains are actually made up 296 00:25:01,667 --> 00:25:06,905 of an incredibly diverse mix of species. 297 00:25:08,974 --> 00:25:10,976 The montane grasslands have 298 00:25:10,976 --> 00:25:15,314 an exceptionally rich biodiversity. 299 00:25:18,384 --> 00:25:20,953 And this has contributed to the Drakensberg's status 300 00:25:20,953 --> 00:25:24,590 as a world heritage site. 301 00:25:24,590 --> 00:25:29,361 The total number of plant species recorded 302 00:25:29,361 --> 00:25:35,033 equates to about a tenth of all plant species in South Africa. 303 00:25:40,139 --> 00:25:44,977 Incredibly, 13% of these are found nowhere else on earth. 304 00:25:56,588 --> 00:25:59,992 The grasslands harbor a wealth of life. 305 00:26:07,800 --> 00:26:09,768 The vast expanse of land 306 00:26:09,768 --> 00:26:13,038 lying at the foot of the mighty Drakensberg 307 00:26:13,038 --> 00:26:18,877 plays host to animals of all shapes and sizes. 308 00:26:18,877 --> 00:26:25,517 Each species has adapted to make the most of what's on offer. 309 00:26:25,517 --> 00:26:30,722 But to do so, they must cover huge distances 310 00:26:30,722 --> 00:26:35,894 as food and resources are spread far and wide. 311 00:26:35,894 --> 00:26:41,834 Black-backed jackals thrive on the lives the mountain takes, 312 00:26:41,834 --> 00:26:43,936 scavenging on carcasses. 313 00:26:57,649 --> 00:26:59,084 For one family, 314 00:26:59,084 --> 00:27:02,120 the day's foraging starts in the open grasslands. 315 00:27:04,189 --> 00:27:06,725 After spending the freezing nights 316 00:27:06,725 --> 00:27:09,728 sheltering in the mountain's endless caves and overhangs, 317 00:27:09,728 --> 00:27:13,966 this troop of Chacma baboons has come down to forage. 318 00:27:14,833 --> 00:27:16,468 (baboon call) 319 00:27:20,072 --> 00:27:22,708 The family move as one unit, 320 00:27:22,708 --> 00:27:26,078 and those that can't keep up are carried. 321 00:27:34,853 --> 00:27:39,625 But out on the plains, they are all vulnerable. 322 00:27:39,625 --> 00:27:43,161 Exposed by the enormity of the landscape, 323 00:27:43,161 --> 00:27:45,998 the Drakensberg's aerial predators 324 00:27:45,998 --> 00:27:51,737 are a constant threat even for these heavyweights. 325 00:28:03,582 --> 00:28:08,887 But baboons are opportunists, and a clear morning 326 00:28:08,887 --> 00:28:11,590 has enticed them out of last night's dwellings. 327 00:28:15,127 --> 00:28:17,596 Chacma baboons are highly adaptable 328 00:28:17,596 --> 00:28:21,300 and can survive in a range of habitats. 329 00:28:21,300 --> 00:28:24,570 The key to their success in the Drakensberg 330 00:28:24,570 --> 00:28:28,307 is to not be picky eaters. 331 00:28:28,307 --> 00:28:33,145 The baboons' diet includes almost anything that is edible. 332 00:28:34,780 --> 00:28:37,583 When foraging, they use their fingers 333 00:28:37,583 --> 00:28:39,184 to dig through the hard soil 334 00:28:39,184 --> 00:28:44,323 to reach the nutritious plant roots, bulbs, and grubs below. 335 00:28:44,323 --> 00:28:47,659 This technique has allowed them to carve out 336 00:28:47,659 --> 00:28:50,729 a life for themselves in this barren landscape. 337 00:28:53,632 --> 00:28:58,270 These grasslands also attract visitors from afar. 338 00:29:03,942 --> 00:29:05,944 These white storks 339 00:29:05,944 --> 00:29:08,880 spent the warm summer months of the breeding season 340 00:29:08,880 --> 00:29:12,084 in parts of central and southern Europe, 341 00:29:12,084 --> 00:29:14,720 the Middle East, and Asia. 342 00:29:18,857 --> 00:29:20,826 As winter arrived, 343 00:29:20,826 --> 00:29:24,763 they undertook a spectacular migration, 344 00:29:24,763 --> 00:29:28,700 flying directly across the vast expanse of the Sahara... 345 00:29:33,739 --> 00:29:35,907 Before eventually taking up residence 346 00:29:35,907 --> 00:29:39,277 in the shadow of the Drakensberg's peaks. 347 00:29:43,982 --> 00:29:47,386 The white stork is a largely carnivorous bird, 348 00:29:47,386 --> 00:29:50,088 consuming a wide range of prey 349 00:29:50,088 --> 00:29:52,257 including snakes, frogs, insects, 350 00:29:52,257 --> 00:29:56,662 and, on occasion, some rodent species. 351 00:30:11,043 --> 00:30:14,079 They are not picky eaters; 352 00:30:14,079 --> 00:30:19,885 almost anything will do, allowing them to scrape a living 353 00:30:19,885 --> 00:30:23,722 from the Drakensberg's meager offerings. 354 00:30:23,722 --> 00:30:27,159 The white stork is a tough character, 355 00:30:27,159 --> 00:30:31,797 but it's not the only animal drawn to the Drakensberg. 356 00:30:35,400 --> 00:30:38,770 Down on the plains, large grazers gather, 357 00:30:38,770 --> 00:30:44,309 but all are dwarfed by their surroundings. 358 00:30:51,116 --> 00:30:55,320 Black wildebeest used to migrate across the region 359 00:30:55,320 --> 00:30:59,157 in their thousands, but due to human activity, 360 00:30:59,157 --> 00:31:02,294 they are now restricted to the Drakensberg's territory. 361 00:31:07,099 --> 00:31:11,002 Small grazing herds roam the grasslands and plateaus 362 00:31:11,002 --> 00:31:14,005 as they feed. 363 00:31:14,005 --> 00:31:15,874 They are hardy survivors. 364 00:31:21,079 --> 00:31:23,181 Thick, dark coats insulate them 365 00:31:23,181 --> 00:31:26,718 better than their relative, the blue wildebeest, 366 00:31:26,718 --> 00:31:29,955 making them more adapted to the severe cold. 367 00:31:36,795 --> 00:31:38,964 They require little protection 368 00:31:38,964 --> 00:31:41,032 during the mountain's cold winter 369 00:31:41,032 --> 00:31:42,768 and at its higher altitudes. 370 00:32:00,986 --> 00:32:04,122 Despite the abundance of land in the Drakensberg, 371 00:32:04,122 --> 00:32:09,094 the rules of Africa's savannas still apply here 372 00:32:09,094 --> 00:32:11,062 when it comes to territory. 373 00:32:11,062 --> 00:32:15,433 The best are prime sparring grounds for male hartebeests. 374 00:32:24,543 --> 00:32:29,314 Their domains must incorporate a rich source of food, 375 00:32:29,314 --> 00:32:31,850 easy access to water, 376 00:32:31,850 --> 00:32:34,820 and a firm footing during the rains. 377 00:32:35,987 --> 00:32:39,858 Competition for such pivotal lands is fierce. 378 00:32:43,862 --> 00:32:48,934 Ruling individuals will regularly meet at their borders 379 00:32:48,934 --> 00:32:51,036 and lock horns. 380 00:33:07,919 --> 00:33:12,290 Serious fights, though rare, can result in fatalities. 381 00:33:12,290 --> 00:33:18,930 For now, it seems they are just letting off a bit of steam. 382 00:33:24,603 --> 00:33:28,139 With so many grazers competing 383 00:33:28,139 --> 00:33:31,276 for the mountain's fresh, succulent grasses, 384 00:33:31,276 --> 00:33:36,514 some have been forced higher to find land of their own. 385 00:33:36,514 --> 00:33:40,518 The grey rhebok ekes out a living 386 00:33:40,518 --> 00:33:43,488 on these steep slopes. 387 00:33:46,925 --> 00:33:50,629 It has evolved to survive here by subsisting off grasses 388 00:33:50,629 --> 00:33:53,632 that are either inaccessible or unpalatable 389 00:33:53,632 --> 00:33:58,103 to most other antelope in the Drakensberg. 390 00:34:01,573 --> 00:34:04,342 The rhebok lives in some of the more barren areas 391 00:34:04,342 --> 00:34:05,944 of the Drakensberg, 392 00:34:05,944 --> 00:34:08,480 where some of the very first species to settle here 393 00:34:08,480 --> 00:34:11,016 continue to thrive. 394 00:34:13,385 --> 00:34:16,021 ♪ ♪ 395 00:34:26,264 --> 00:34:29,200 One of the earliest life forms to take hold 396 00:34:29,200 --> 00:34:30,936 had a lasting influence. 397 00:34:37,676 --> 00:34:40,512 The arrival of lichen is a vital step 398 00:34:40,512 --> 00:34:43,014 in the colonization of bare rock. 399 00:34:55,427 --> 00:34:58,296 As soil slowly begins to accumulate 400 00:34:58,296 --> 00:35:00,031 in the cracks of rocks 401 00:35:00,031 --> 00:35:02,500 and the dead bodies of lichens begin to gather, 402 00:35:02,500 --> 00:35:08,206 larger plants are able to gain a hold on the layer of remains. 403 00:35:19,718 --> 00:35:23,421 As these gather, they break up the rock even more 404 00:35:23,421 --> 00:35:27,025 and they add their own dead bodies to the pile... 405 00:35:35,166 --> 00:35:38,336 Creating soil where the seeds of small plants 406 00:35:38,336 --> 00:35:41,106 are able to root and grow. 407 00:35:48,279 --> 00:35:53,918 But the entire process starts with the lowly lichen. 408 00:35:59,624 --> 00:36:01,226 And without it, 409 00:36:01,226 --> 00:36:05,630 the Drakensberg would have a very different appearance. 410 00:36:09,601 --> 00:36:12,370 Throughout the range, plants and animals 411 00:36:12,370 --> 00:36:15,573 have adapted to survive the extreme conditions 412 00:36:15,573 --> 00:36:18,777 faced on a daily basis. 413 00:36:18,777 --> 00:36:23,615 At higher altitudes, the soil is like a dry sponge. 414 00:36:28,486 --> 00:36:34,125 This prevents it from freezing in the severe cold. 415 00:36:34,125 --> 00:36:37,228 Above the tree line, plants survive 416 00:36:37,228 --> 00:36:42,400 because many of them have subterranean bulbs and roots. 417 00:36:42,400 --> 00:36:47,539 While lower down, specialists fringe the streams and rivers 418 00:36:47,539 --> 00:36:49,274 running off the mountain. 419 00:37:01,286 --> 00:37:03,421 (water dripping) 420 00:37:03,421 --> 00:37:05,290 Mosses are perfectly adapted 421 00:37:05,290 --> 00:37:09,727 to make the most of the wet conditions. 422 00:37:09,727 --> 00:37:12,230 Part of an ancient lineage, 423 00:37:12,230 --> 00:37:14,332 they were one of the first plants 424 00:37:14,332 --> 00:37:16,568 to colonize the mighty mountain range, 425 00:37:16,568 --> 00:37:21,673 along with the pioneering lichen. 426 00:37:21,673 --> 00:37:24,509 The damp, shady, 427 00:37:24,509 --> 00:37:27,679 sparsely vegetated rock faces of the Drakensberg 428 00:37:27,679 --> 00:37:31,749 are the ideal habitat for them to thrive. 429 00:37:41,826 --> 00:37:47,098 And they create an ideal hiding place for a hunter. 430 00:37:48,433 --> 00:37:53,104 A many-spotted snake uses its surroundings as cover. 431 00:38:03,815 --> 00:38:07,218 Only its breathing gives it away. 432 00:38:25,904 --> 00:38:30,475 Lurking along the Drakensberg's streams, rivers, and marshes, 433 00:38:30,475 --> 00:38:33,645 it searches for a meal. 434 00:38:45,223 --> 00:38:49,260 It preys on amphibians, like Karoo toads 435 00:38:49,260 --> 00:38:52,397 that have adapted to blend into the rocky banks. 436 00:38:52,397 --> 00:38:56,301 But even when you are well camouflaged, 437 00:38:56,301 --> 00:39:01,139 sometimes the best defense is a hasty retreat. 438 00:39:07,378 --> 00:39:10,181 As the evening light settles on the grasslands, 439 00:39:10,181 --> 00:39:12,617 its residents head for shelter. 440 00:39:12,617 --> 00:39:19,257 The white storks have to make do with any form of high ground. 441 00:39:19,257 --> 00:39:24,295 A lone tree does the job. 442 00:39:24,295 --> 00:39:29,767 The travelers gather in informal colonies. 443 00:39:29,767 --> 00:39:33,338 The Chacma baboons also need to head home. 444 00:39:37,275 --> 00:39:40,878 They travel back up the mountain to the safety of their caves. 445 00:39:49,520 --> 00:39:52,323 They are not the only primates 446 00:39:52,323 --> 00:39:55,293 to have used these caves for shelter. 447 00:39:59,330 --> 00:40:03,868 Over time, many have gazed out over this dramatic landscape. 448 00:40:06,337 --> 00:40:11,476 Formed over the centuries by a slow process of weathering, 449 00:40:11,476 --> 00:40:14,012 these hollows have served as a refuge 450 00:40:14,012 --> 00:40:16,914 from the Drakensberg's fierce elements. 451 00:40:16,914 --> 00:40:21,486 For more than 4,000 years, 452 00:40:21,486 --> 00:40:25,023 they were home to the indigenous San people, 453 00:40:25,023 --> 00:40:28,459 who created a vast body of rock art... 454 00:40:32,597 --> 00:40:38,503 The largest and most prolific collection in Africa. 455 00:40:38,503 --> 00:40:45,009 There are some 600 sites and 35,000 individual images 456 00:40:45,009 --> 00:40:47,779 in the Drakensberg alone. 457 00:40:51,049 --> 00:40:54,319 The Bushmen were drawn here 458 00:40:54,319 --> 00:40:58,523 by the abundance of game living on the grasslands. 459 00:41:02,293 --> 00:41:05,296 The images depict a detailed account 460 00:41:05,296 --> 00:41:07,899 of their hunter-gather existence. 461 00:41:13,004 --> 00:41:16,307 Among the animals represented in these paintings, 462 00:41:16,307 --> 00:41:19,444 eland are given a prominent role. 463 00:41:25,683 --> 00:41:29,420 Both the quantity and quality of the eland paintings 464 00:41:29,420 --> 00:41:30,555 are remarkable, 465 00:41:30,555 --> 00:41:36,494 suggesting they were very important in San culture. 466 00:41:40,631 --> 00:41:42,967 While most other animals 467 00:41:42,967 --> 00:41:44,669 are regularly depicted in a single color, 468 00:41:44,669 --> 00:41:48,339 the eland are painted in combinations of several, 469 00:41:48,339 --> 00:41:54,846 often using sophisticated shading techniques. 470 00:41:54,846 --> 00:41:59,784 Today, eland still have a central role 471 00:41:59,784 --> 00:42:01,486 in the Drakensberg story. 472 00:42:01,486 --> 00:42:05,590 They are one of the most common large mammals in the area, 473 00:42:05,590 --> 00:42:08,826 with an estimated 2,000 individuals 474 00:42:08,826 --> 00:42:13,865 representing around 20% of the South African population. 475 00:42:17,435 --> 00:42:24,075 The Cape eland typically move in herds of up to 15. 476 00:42:24,075 --> 00:42:27,011 Even at a distance, 477 00:42:27,011 --> 00:42:31,282 these giant 1,900 pound animals are unmistakable. 478 00:42:35,153 --> 00:42:38,723 Their unique bulk and heavy dewlap, 479 00:42:38,723 --> 00:42:43,060 once revered by the Bushmen for its high fat content, 480 00:42:43,060 --> 00:42:45,696 give the animals an iconic image. 481 00:42:49,467 --> 00:42:52,670 Their mountain home has supported life 482 00:42:52,670 --> 00:42:55,506 throughout the ages. 483 00:43:07,919 --> 00:43:11,489 By the end of the 19th century, 484 00:43:11,489 --> 00:43:15,193 the San had disappeared from the Drakensberg completely, 485 00:43:15,193 --> 00:43:19,931 driven out by European settlers. 486 00:43:19,931 --> 00:43:22,967 But their drawings remained. 487 00:43:22,967 --> 00:43:26,137 Based on known rates of deterioration, 488 00:43:26,137 --> 00:43:29,474 most of the rock art remaining in the Drakensberg 489 00:43:29,474 --> 00:43:33,077 belongs to the last 1,000 years of occupation, 490 00:43:33,077 --> 00:43:36,647 if not the last few centuries. 491 00:43:39,050 --> 00:43:42,220 Today, they offer a glimpse back in time, 492 00:43:42,220 --> 00:43:45,223 a reminder of the people who lived, survived, 493 00:43:45,223 --> 00:43:49,427 and thrived for centuries in this extreme land. 494 00:43:58,236 --> 00:44:01,572 While some have come and gone, 495 00:44:01,572 --> 00:44:05,643 others have stayed and flourished. 496 00:44:05,643 --> 00:44:09,947 Conquering the Drakensberg is not easy, 497 00:44:09,947 --> 00:44:14,218 but if successful, the mountain will shelter and protect 498 00:44:14,218 --> 00:44:16,721 those willing to live here. 499 00:44:20,825 --> 00:44:23,561 The mighty barrier of spears 500 00:44:23,561 --> 00:44:28,132 is a formidable and unforgiving landscape, 501 00:44:28,132 --> 00:44:34,605 a hostile wilderness 502 00:44:34,605 --> 00:44:38,576 where harsh conditions make every day a challenge. 503 00:44:47,285 --> 00:44:53,224 But for the few that have taken them on, 504 00:44:53,224 --> 00:44:58,195 the rewards have been worth it. 505 00:45:03,267 --> 00:45:05,536 In the mountain's hidden corners, 506 00:45:05,536 --> 00:45:09,607 a host of creatures have found sanctuary. 507 00:45:12,310 --> 00:45:16,180 While some rise above the peaks, 508 00:45:16,180 --> 00:45:19,050 others thrive in their shadows. 509 00:45:31,329 --> 00:45:34,198 Stretching as far as the eye can see, 510 00:45:34,198 --> 00:45:38,936 it is called the barrier of spears for good reason. 511 00:45:38,936 --> 00:45:41,606 It's a realm of sharp extremes, 512 00:45:41,606 --> 00:45:46,844 an unforgiving land that also harbors a wealth of life, 513 00:45:46,844 --> 00:45:51,816 creating one of Africa's greatest hidden kingdoms. 514 00:45:52,850 --> 00:45:55,086 ♪ ♪ 40510

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