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Indonesia is a land of creatures
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lost in time
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Castaways from two continents settle
the island chain of Indonesia
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the greatest archipelago on earth
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Marooned on this scatter of islands
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their descendants were cut off
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from the outside world
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Many became unique
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Today, these thousands of islands
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have a wider diversity of life
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than anywhere else on the planet
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Both above and below the water
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creatures that live only here
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rub shoulders with new
colonists from east and west
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Indonesia lies on a ring of fire
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and the land still bears the scars
of its violent birth
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15 million years ago, seas stretched
unbroken from Asia to Australia
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but deep below the waves
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huge pieces of the earth's crust
were on the move
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Where these giant fragments collided
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molten lava spewed from the seabed
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New land was born
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Over millions of years
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what was once open ocean became an
archipelago of more than 17,000 islands
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Today, these islands form
a line of stepping stones
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running 5000 km along the equator
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from northern Australia to Asia
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Some of the islands were built by volcanos
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others are fragments of the continents
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like Borneo
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Borneo was once part of Asia
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so Asian animals colonized its forests
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They've been isolated so long
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that some are now quite different
to their relations on the mainland
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They've become new species
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like the proboscis monkey
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Proboscis monkeys are found
only here in Borneo,
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along rivers and in coastal mangrove forest
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They get their name from
the male's enormous nose
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He has a gut to match
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Proboscis monkeys eat leaves
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that huge stomach has full of bacteria
to help digest them
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Though the monkeys can deal with old leaves
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they much prefer tender young ones
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To find them, they often have to cross rivers
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and that can be dangerous
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The murky water hides a stealthy hunter
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Crocodiles eat proboscis monkeys
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Is that a crocodile or just a floating log?
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Crocodiles home in
on any splash in the water
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The monkeys strain every sinew
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to clear the danger in a single leap
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They can't afford to put a foot wrong
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For some, the river is just too wide
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Every crash could be a dinner bell
for the crocodiles
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Even now an unseen killer could be homing in
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The crocodile was just too late
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but its time will come
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crocs kill more proboscis monkeys
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than any other predator
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Close to the sea,
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the mangroves are flooded by the tides
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the creeks here are too wide to jump
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so as the best of the food is on the other side
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the monkeys have to swim for it
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They paddle across as quietly as they can
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the slightest splash could bring disaster
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These unique animals even
have partly webbed feet
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ideal for life in Borneo's mangroves
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Borneo is an old island,
a fragment of mainland Asia
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others in the archipelago are much younger
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A new island appeared as recently as 1928
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that eruption was just one chapter in a long story
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Krakatau
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In 1883, one of the greatest explosions
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the earth has ever known ripped Krakatau apart
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But just 45 years later,
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a new island burst from the sea
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the child of Krakatau
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Today, the child is still growing
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this is island building in action
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This is just one of 155 active volcanos
in Indonesia
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Every day sees an eruption somewhere
in the archipelago
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this is the most violently
volcanic region on earth
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Within a year of its birth
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Krakatau's child received its first colonists
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Plants came
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their seeds carried by wind and waves
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volcanic ash is a fertile seedbed
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Animals arrived too
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spiders on the wind
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birds and bats on wing
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This is a story that's been repeated
all over Indonesia
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when the volcanos sleep,
the colonists float in
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Rich volcanic soils attracted
another kind of immigrant
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people
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Fertile ash, ample rainfall and tropical sun
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make volcanic slopes like these
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the bread basket of Indonesia
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People have been farming here
for countless generations
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Terraces in Java date back 2000 years
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The mountain gives but it can also destroy
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Living in the shadow of the volcano
is dicing with death
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remind us the fire beneath the surface
never far away
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These are soils so rich that
yield 3 crops in a year
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and they need to
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for Java is the most densely populated island
in the world
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With almost 115 million people
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it has half Indonesia's total
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Java's terraces have been feeding people
for 20 centuries
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and feeding them well enough
to support elaborate civilizations
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The ruins of Borobudur date
from the 8th century
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only a society that knew where
its next meal was coming from
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could have afforded such flowering
of art and craftsmanship
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Borobudur is the largest Buddhist temple
in the world
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Indonesia's peoples are as diverse
as the wildlife
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and for much the same reasons
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Over the centuries, waves of immigrants
colonized these fertile islands
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they came from many different lands
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each with its own cultural heritage
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Isolated on remote islands,
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old cultures flowered in new ways
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beauty blended with bizarre
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Masks like these perhaps inspired
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by the strange creatures
that shared these island homes
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And few could be stranger than this
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the babyrussa
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It lives on just one island
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It's a pig, but a pig with a difference
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Only the males have these extraordinary tusks
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no one knows what they are for
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An early explorer suggested they were hooks
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so the animal could hang its head
from the branch when it was resting
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but then why doesn't female have them?
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It's more likely they're used
for some male chauvinistic pig activity
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like fighting or attracting a mate
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These extraordinary creatures
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live only in the forests
of one extraordinary island
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lying at the very heart of the archipelago
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Half of it was once part of Borneo
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the other half fragments of Australia
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Some 15 million years ago they collided
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to form Sulawesi
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Sulawesi's animals are the castaways
of two continents
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It's now isolated so they have been left alone
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to evolve in their own way
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Sulawesi's forests have masses of fruit trees
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especially figs
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So there's plenty of food for
fruit eating animals and birds
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like hornbills
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The ancestors of these enormous birds
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came from the forests of southern Asia
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This is the red-knobbed hornbill
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It's found only in Sulawesi
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one of 88 bird species unique to the island
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With so many fig trees in the forest
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there's always one in fruits somewhere
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figs make up most of their diet
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Fig trees need hornbills as much as
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hornbills need figs
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They rely on the birds and animals
to disperse their seeds
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When a fig tree's in fruit
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it's a focus of activity
for all kinds of creature
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Crested black macaques
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are one of 7 kinds of monkey on Sulawesi
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like red-knobbed hornbills
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all 7 are found nowhere else
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Their ancestors originally came from Borneo
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more than 100km to the west
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During the last Ice Age
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sea levels were lower
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and the straits that separated the island
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much narrow
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The movements of the earth's crust
that assembled Sulawesi
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triggered volcanos too
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One of the island's most remarkable birds
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uses volcanic heat to hatch its eggs
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It's the maleo
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its ancestors came from the east - from Australia
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another legacy from Sulawesi's mongrel past
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These chicken-sized birds nest in colonies
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they bury their eggs in hot volcanic sand
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The eggs are huge
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5 times the size of a hen's egg
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The chicks will need those reserves of energy
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because their parents play no part
in their upbringing
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The eggs are buried and abandoned
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In 3 months, they'll hatch
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incubated only by the heat of the sand
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The red-knobbed hornbill
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takes parental devotion to the opposite extreme
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These giant birds pair for life
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This is the male
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the female has a yellow knob on her beak
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Hornbills nest in holes in tree trunks
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but females are walled up inside for safety
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most kinds narrow the entrance with mud
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but volcanic soils don't bind well
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so this one seals herself in
with her own droppings
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Fig seeds make good glue
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For the next 3 months,
she'll depend on her mate
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to bring food for herself
and the growing chick
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He carries fruit in a pouch in his throat
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He can hold as many as 250 figs
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Even when his mate breaks a way out
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the male's task isn't over
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The chick won't fledge for another month
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He'll feed it until it leaves the nest
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Sulawesi's beaches of black volcanic sand
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hold a special attraction for the monkeys
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There're often the one place
where they can find freshwater
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Volcanic soils are very porous
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during the dry season many streams disappear
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but the water still flows beneath the surface
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The monkeys have learned to reach it
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by digging in sand
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00:23:37,384 --> 00:23:39,777
The first westerners to visit Sulawesi's shores
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thought these creatures were apes
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Misled by the apparently lack of a tail
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they christened them the black ape
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00:23:50,759 --> 00:23:52,713
In fact, they are monkeys
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with a typically monkey way of life
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They live in troops of 30 to 100
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Each with its own range
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a tract of jungle big enough
to support them throughout the year
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00:24:15,351 --> 00:24:17,482
Most of their diet is fruit from the forest
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but beach combing can bring
all kinds of delicacy
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and the sea makes a great playground
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As evening falls,
the monkeys will retire to the trees
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The night belongs to another world
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One of Sulawesi's strangest creatures
serenades the moon
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with its unearthly cries
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00:26:14,686 --> 00:26:15,755
The tarsier
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These tiny gremlins of the night
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are the monkey's distant cousins
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00:26:20,900 --> 00:26:24,777
They live in pairs each with its
own patch of forest
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00:26:25,546 --> 00:26:29,129
At dusk and dawn
couples state their territorial claims
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with a piercing duet
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00:27:14,638 --> 00:27:16,399
Though they weigh no more than an apple
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tarsiers are perfectly formed hunters
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00:27:23,416 --> 00:27:26,748
They catch insects,
small reptiles and amphibians
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Huge eyes help them see in the dark
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sensitive ears pinpoint their prey
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and long hindlimbs make them
prodigious leapers
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They can jump nearly 20 times
the length of their body
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the human equivalent of 4 times
the world long-jump record
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Tarsiers may be tiny
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but 40 million years of evolution
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have honed their hunting skills to perfection
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00:28:12,733 --> 00:28:16,422
East of Sulawesi over the sea
towards the sunrise
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00:28:16,522 --> 00:28:21,579
lies the least explored of all the islands
in this mysterious archipelago
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00:28:31,727 --> 00:28:35,481
New Guinea is a giant fragment
of continental crust
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only 10,000 years ago
it was part of Australia
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00:28:42,776 --> 00:28:46,154
Rising sea levels after the last Ice Age
cut it off
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00:28:49,319 --> 00:28:51,405
Though it's separated only by shallow sea
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00:28:51,406 --> 00:28:53,584
it's a world apart
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00:28:54,225 --> 00:28:56,557
Well into the 20th century
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00:28:56,657 --> 00:28:59,336
few visitors ventured far into the interior
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New Guinea has an incredible range of habitats
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from coral reefs to coastal mangroves
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00:29:14,465 --> 00:29:18,233
dense tropical jungle to high mountains
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00:29:25,000 --> 00:29:26,513
The interior is so rugged
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00:29:26,613 --> 00:29:30,167
that even today, parts of it are almost unknown
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This impenetrable landscape
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has a far-reaching effect on the wildlife
266
00:29:49,523 --> 00:29:52,217
Neighboring valleys are virtually cut off
267
00:29:53,108 --> 00:29:55,385
Islands of forests separated not by sea,
268
00:29:55,485 --> 00:29:57,044
but by mountains
269
00:29:58,067 --> 00:30:01,096
Just as islands in the ocean
develop a distinct form
270
00:30:01,196 --> 00:30:03,494
so these islands within an island
271
00:30:03,594 --> 00:30:06,284
have their own unique inhabitants
272
00:30:12,413 --> 00:30:13,885
Some time in the distant past
273
00:30:13,995 --> 00:30:18,000
a drab crow-like bird settled
in New Guinea's forests
274
00:30:19,000 --> 00:30:23,014
Over the years its descendants
were isolated in separate valleys
275
00:30:23,640 --> 00:30:26,307
Today, there are many different kinds
276
00:30:26,542 --> 00:30:29,918
among them some of the most
spectacular birds in the world
277
00:30:30,460 --> 00:30:33,180
They're the birds of paradise
278
00:30:34,466 --> 00:30:37,343
This tiny jewel is the king bird of paradise
279
00:30:37,443 --> 00:30:39,149
the smallest of all
280
00:30:39,249 --> 00:30:43,282
like the rest, he has a dozen courtship display
281
00:31:05,529 --> 00:31:08,224
The king's range overlaps
with another bird of paradise
282
00:31:08,324 --> 00:31:09,669
the magnificent
283
00:31:10,624 --> 00:31:13,382
He creates a special arena
to show off his display
284
00:31:13,482 --> 00:31:15,370
a patch of forest floor
285
00:31:15,470 --> 00:31:17,977
he clears of every fallen leaf and twig
286
00:31:18,716 --> 00:31:20,555
He'll use it for several years
287
00:31:27,900 --> 00:31:32,000
In both species the females
are drab and brown
288
00:31:32,099 --> 00:31:35,337
only the males flaunt flamboyant plumage
289
00:31:36,000 --> 00:31:38,173
It's the females who decide to which mate with
290
00:31:38,273 --> 00:31:42,528
and the males will go to ridiculous length
to impress them
291
00:32:15,102 --> 00:32:16,374
Although they look different
292
00:32:16,474 --> 00:32:19,836
these two species are actually
very closely related
293
00:32:20,300 --> 00:32:23,889
close enough to interbreed
if a female picked the wrong mate
294
00:32:37,595 --> 00:32:41,564
If you take away the colors
these dancers are almost identical
295
00:32:41,664 --> 00:32:44,293
Both species use similar movements
296
00:32:44,393 --> 00:32:46,634
a sign of their common ancestry
297
00:32:47,258 --> 00:32:49,929
The males dazzling in distinctive plumage
298
00:32:50,029 --> 00:32:53,171
helps the female pick a mate of her own kind
299
00:33:25,002 --> 00:33:27,246
The mountains of New Guinea's central spine
300
00:33:27,346 --> 00:33:29,512
rise high above the tree line
301
00:33:30,254 --> 00:33:32,528
to over 5000 meters
302
00:33:46,147 --> 00:33:48,438
These barren highlands are a barrier to birds
303
00:33:48,538 --> 00:33:50,394
form the forest below
304
00:33:51,000 --> 00:33:52,831
There's no reason for them to cross
305
00:33:53,637 --> 00:33:55,119
Cut off in their jungle valleys
306
00:33:55,219 --> 00:34:00,188
the birds of paradise flowered
in splendid isolation
307
00:34:04,000 --> 00:34:07,748
There're just 42 kinds of bird of paradise
in the world
308
00:34:08,237 --> 00:34:10,594
New Guinea and its offshore islands
309
00:34:10,694 --> 00:34:12,375
have 38 of them
310
00:34:12,475 --> 00:34:16,760
all descended from that one crow-like ancestor
311
00:35:27,391 --> 00:35:29,051
With their magnificent plumes
312
00:35:29,151 --> 00:35:32,281
birds of paradise attract more than a mate
313
00:35:33,057 --> 00:35:35,287
The feathers that are so vital to their courtship
314
00:35:35,387 --> 00:35:37,185
can also be their undoing
315
00:35:42,521 --> 00:35:44,883
People prize them for their own displays
316
00:35:44,983 --> 00:35:47,896
and the locals are expert hunters
317
00:35:50,596 --> 00:35:52,634
New Guinea is more sparsely populated
318
00:35:52,734 --> 00:35:56,395
and better forested
than other islands in the chain
319
00:35:57,038 --> 00:35:59,848
It still has room for birds of paradise
320
00:36:03,522 --> 00:36:04,561
Further to the west
321
00:36:04,661 --> 00:36:06,333
in the heart of the archipelago
322
00:36:07,148 --> 00:36:08,968
it's a very different story
323
00:36:21,000 --> 00:36:24,394
People have been clearing the jungle
to grow food for centuries
324
00:36:25,273 --> 00:36:26,832
When the trees go
325
00:36:26,932 --> 00:36:30,018
so do many of the unique creatures
of these island forests
326
00:36:38,679 --> 00:36:40,282
The Bali starling
327
00:36:41,000 --> 00:36:42,848
the last census found only 14
328
00:36:42,948 --> 00:36:44,942
still live in the wild
329
00:36:48,712 --> 00:36:50,146
All across Indonesia,
330
00:36:50,246 --> 00:36:54,423
people are replacing the island's
natural inhabitants
331
00:37:03,371 --> 00:37:05,578
So many of these creatures are unique
332
00:37:07,308 --> 00:37:10,663
It's almost impossible to live here
without destroying something
333
00:37:13,000 --> 00:37:14,954
But the human cultures that displace them
334
00:37:15,054 --> 00:37:16,794
have a beauty of their own
335
00:37:30,550 --> 00:37:32,105
The Barong dance of Bali
336
00:37:32,205 --> 00:37:36,452
tells a story of the age-old struggle
between good and evil
337
00:37:38,154 --> 00:37:40,482
an echo of another timeless conflict
338
00:37:40,582 --> 00:37:43,551
between people and the natural world
339
00:37:56,000 --> 00:37:57,733
The dance came to Bali from India
340
00:37:57,833 --> 00:37:59,678
more than 1300 years ago
341
00:38:00,795 --> 00:38:03,261
Over the centuries it developed
in its own way
342
00:38:03,361 --> 00:38:06,808
now like the Bali starling it's unique
343
00:38:16,698 --> 00:38:18,539
Right across the archipelago
344
00:38:18,639 --> 00:38:20,900
Indonesia's cultural diversity
345
00:38:21,008 --> 00:38:22,900
is matched by the many ways that
346
00:38:23,005 --> 00:38:24,888
people exploit wildlife
347
00:38:30,537 --> 00:38:32,359
Here on the southern coast of Java
348
00:38:32,459 --> 00:38:35,641
they reap a strange and hazardous harvest
349
00:38:43,000 --> 00:38:44,125
What these men are after
350
00:38:44,225 --> 00:38:46,782
is worth more than its weight in gold
351
00:38:47,321 --> 00:38:50,216
To gather it, they will risk their lives
352
00:38:59,719 --> 00:39:02,160
It's hidden deep in the cliffs below
353
00:39:02,260 --> 00:39:05,176
in caves guarded by a turbulent sea
354
00:39:17,590 --> 00:39:21,034
Suspended from flimsy ladders
of rattan and bamboo
355
00:39:21,134 --> 00:39:25,181
they brave cliffs that tower 100m
from the waves
356
00:39:41,575 --> 00:39:43,235
If the men fall here
357
00:39:43,335 --> 00:39:45,629
their bodies are never recovered
358
00:40:40,384 --> 00:40:42,421
People have been doing this for centuries
359
00:40:43,000 --> 00:40:45,866
the techniques have changed little
across the years
360
00:40:46,407 --> 00:40:48,624
Skills handed down from father to son
361
00:40:48,724 --> 00:40:50,073
over the generations
362
00:40:56,172 --> 00:40:57,870
There're no safety ropes,
363
00:40:58,270 --> 00:41:00,397
a fall would bring certain death
364
00:41:29,438 --> 00:41:32,945
This is what they are after - bird's nests
365
00:41:33,750 --> 00:41:35,801
The birds are cave swiftlets
366
00:41:35,901 --> 00:41:38,922
They build their nests off saliva
367
00:41:42,163 --> 00:41:44,696
The nests are used to make bird's nest soup
368
00:41:45,300 --> 00:41:50,131
To us, warmed up swiftlet's spit
may not seem very appetizing
369
00:41:50,231 --> 00:41:54,652
but in Chinese cuisine
it's a highly prized delicacy
370
00:41:58,581 --> 00:42:01,770
There's been a trade in bird's nests
for hundreds of years
371
00:42:02,222 --> 00:42:05,942
they're so valuable that people
even try to sell fake bird's nests
372
00:42:06,042 --> 00:42:09,489
counterfeits, woven from noodles
373
00:42:15,463 --> 00:42:17,159
Collecting rights in every cave
374
00:42:17,160 --> 00:42:19,143
are owned and jealously guarded
375
00:42:26,266 --> 00:42:28,066
Nests are gathered early in the season
376
00:42:28,166 --> 00:42:30,394
when the birds have just finished building
377
00:42:31,471 --> 00:42:33,092
Most pairs will make another nest
378
00:42:33,192 --> 00:42:35,107
and breed successfully
379
00:42:35,207 --> 00:42:38,546
so the harvest can be sustained year after year
380
00:42:49,620 --> 00:42:51,887
Where people share the islands with wildlife
381
00:42:51,987 --> 00:42:54,419
they seldom leave it untouched
382
00:42:54,420 --> 00:42:58,021
but not all of Indonesia's 17000 islands
383
00:42:58,121 --> 00:42:59,709
are densely peopled
384
00:43:01,597 --> 00:43:03,428
Some are still primeval wilderness
385
00:43:04,580 --> 00:43:07,710
lost worlds that time has passed by
386
00:43:20,777 --> 00:43:24,204
On these distant islands
even the animals look like something
387
00:43:24,304 --> 00:43:27,190
from the age of the dinosaurs
388
00:43:45,314 --> 00:43:47,863
The fabled island of Komodo
389
00:43:50,255 --> 00:43:52,693
it's home to a creature that
could have stepped
390
00:43:52,793 --> 00:43:55,561
straight from pages of myth and legend
391
00:43:56,177 --> 00:43:57,874
the Komodo dragon
392
00:44:03,762 --> 00:44:05,946
In reality, it's not a dragon
393
00:44:06,786 --> 00:44:08,033
nor even a dinosaur
394
00:44:08,133 --> 00:44:10,032
but a gigantic lizard
395
00:44:15,906 --> 00:44:17,273
These 3m monsters
396
00:44:17,373 --> 00:44:19,297
live only on Komodo
397
00:44:19,397 --> 00:44:21,778
and a few islands nearby
398
00:44:22,273 --> 00:44:24,137
They are scavengers and hunters
399
00:44:24,237 --> 00:44:28,659
big enough to kills pigs, deer
even people
400
00:44:33,480 --> 00:44:34,945
It's the breeding season
401
00:44:35,380 --> 00:44:38,666
the formidable males must battle
for the right to mate
402
00:44:46,267 --> 00:44:49,230
Komodo dragons are the heaviest lizards
in the world
403
00:44:49,330 --> 00:44:54,247
A full-grown male can tip the scales of 250 kilos
404
00:44:54,984 --> 00:44:56,830
He'll try to use that massive weight
405
00:44:56,930 --> 00:45:00,167
to throw his opponent and pin him down
406
00:45:31,138 --> 00:45:33,384
If the contestants are evenly matched
407
00:45:33,484 --> 00:45:36,293
these contests can last an hour
408
00:46:28,660 --> 00:46:30,966
Weight wins these wrestling matches
409
00:46:31,538 --> 00:46:33,098
the smaller male is defeated
410
00:46:33,198 --> 00:46:36,399
leaving his rival free to pursue the female
411
00:46:37,000 --> 00:46:38,556
but she'll give him the run-around
412
00:46:38,656 --> 00:46:40,507
before deciding whether to accept him
413
00:46:42,730 --> 00:46:45,765
For most of the year males
dominate the smaller females
414
00:46:45,865 --> 00:46:48,448
driving them off as they compete for food
415
00:46:49,264 --> 00:46:52,978
so he has to convince her that
he's not just trying to attack her
416
00:47:02,753 --> 00:47:04,576
Eventually his scaly caresses
417
00:47:04,676 --> 00:47:06,668
will reap the reward
418
00:47:07,135 --> 00:47:11,071
Next year, there'll be a new generation of dragons
419
00:47:14,472 --> 00:47:18,588
10000 years ago
an even larger lizard lived in Australia
420
00:47:19,206 --> 00:47:21,021
a 7m monster
421
00:47:21,121 --> 00:47:23,143
10 times the weight of these
422
00:47:24,627 --> 00:47:26,910
Could it have been the dragon's ancestor?
423
00:47:33,536 --> 00:47:35,893
Komodos now isolated by ferocious currents
424
00:47:35,993 --> 00:47:37,678
that are hard to cross
425
00:47:38,457 --> 00:47:40,504
The dragons are island castaways
426
00:47:41,245 --> 00:47:43,978
like so much that came here from cross the sea
427
00:47:46,399 --> 00:47:48,011
Right across the archipelago
428
00:47:48,505 --> 00:47:52,061
the ocean carried colonists to this scattered isles
429
00:47:54,786 --> 00:47:57,641
It's the ocean that created their rich variety
430
00:47:58,233 --> 00:48:01,092
and the ocean has life of its own
431
00:48:02,000 --> 00:48:04,176
It's there we'll go on our next program
432
00:48:05,217 --> 00:48:08,884
The Underwater Wonderland of Indonesia
433
00:48:09,885 --> 00:48:19,885
Transcription by Andrew and Hattie
www.mvgroup.org
33550
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