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An island world in the vast Pacific.
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Born from fire.
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Shaped by nature's mightiest forces.
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A land of astonishing beauty
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and astounding creatures.
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Creatures which are sometimes blessed by
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the island's abundance
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and at other times cursed by a lack of resources.
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Only those who can adapt can make it here.
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The marine iguana.
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A fierce-looking resident of the Galapagos Islands
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When its ancestors arrived here, they were met with
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an equally frightening sight.
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The first glimpse of the islands is anything but inviting.
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Many of the Galapagos dwellers didn't come here by choice.
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Most are castaways,
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tossed here by the storms and strong currents,
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saved by this rocky tip of an underwater volcano
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in the middle of the Pacific.
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The Galapagos Islands lie around 600 miles
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off the South American coast, almost on the equator.
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It's an archipelago made up of 13 main islands
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and hundreds of small rocks and isles.
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It lies at the point where two mighty
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ocean currents converge.
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The Humboldt Current comes up from the Antarctic.
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For half the year its ice-cold stream dominates the islands.
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During the other six months, the Panama Current moves in
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from Central America, tropical and warm.
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This current brought the ancestors of the
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marine iguana to these islands from the mainland
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millions of years ago.
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Despite the odds, the mini-dragons became
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an unlikely model for success.
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The prehistoric-looking creatures live only here.
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On Fernandina Island they form the biggest colonies.
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But their road to becoming super lizards has been rocky.
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Their ancestors first had to learn where to find food.
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These barren volcanic islands had no plants.
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The lizards had to think outside the rocks.
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Only under water could they find something to eat.
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Algae.
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The marine iguana learned how to hold its breath
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for up to 30 minutes and dive for it.
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No other lizard can do this.
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But now the Panama Current is stirring up trouble.
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The iguanas eat only green algae and they've overgrazed.
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The warm current blocks the denser cold water from
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bringing crucial minerals and nutrients up
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from the ocean depths.
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It turns the garden into an underwater desert.
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The iguanas aren't the only ones in
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this Panama predicament.
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Almost all the inhabitants suffer through
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this lean season.
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Those who can, migrate.
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Those who stay have learned to cope.
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They don't depend on algae, but other microorganisms.
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For the next months a rainbow of tropical fish
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adds local color to the reef.
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The Panama Current's reach doesn't stop at the shoreline.
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(thunder rumbles)
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It plants a wet kiss on the face of the islands.
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The barren rocks begin to bloom
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to the delight of the Galapagos carpenter bees.
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Even the black lava-clad slopes turn green
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and at the Highlands, the forests soak up the moisture
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as if to never let it go.
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The Galapagos giant tortoise knows that
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once the Humboldt Current comes this abundance will end.
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Until that day, there's only one thing to do,
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eat like crazy.
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While the animals on the island enjoy this bounty,
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the sea dwellers fight for their lives.
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The marine iguana, scrambling over the rocks
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to find his meager meal,
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must battle against the rising current.
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He uses all his strength just to stay in place
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as the water surges around him.
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He must eat, but he's almost spending more energy
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fighting the tide than he gets from his food.
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The search for algae is crucial
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but so is staying alive.
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His strength is failing
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and he needs to come up for air.
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Not as easy as it sounds.
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Fighting the surf takes every last ounce of effort.
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He's one of the lucky ones.
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In life's relentless contest,
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many marine iguanas lose to the Panama Current.
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This survivor needs to rest.
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But the hot, humid current has another torment in store.
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(fly buzzes)
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Flies.
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(flies buzz)
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They zero in on the iguana's moist scales.
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(flies buzz)
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They are relentless.
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But the marine iguanas have an ally,
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the Galapagos lava lizard,
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another castaway that made good here.
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Flies are its favorite dish, and worth the work.
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(fly buzzes)
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The Panama Current turns the island's fly season into
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a tropical paradise for the lava lizards.
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But paradise doesn't last.
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The Panama Current has started to weaken,
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making room for the colder Humboldt Current to build
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and along with it comes a tropical tourist,
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the green turtle,
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an algae eater as well.
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She has traveled over 600 miles to dine here
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but she's arrived a bit too early.
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The only algae here is on her shell.
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It's no more than fuzz,
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but it makes the turtle very popular with
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the razor surgeonfish.
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The turtles benefit, too.
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Too much algae causes drag.
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Once the surgeonfish have mowed the lawn,
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another specialist steps in.
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King angelfish come to gobble up parasites
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and small crustaceans that can't hide any more
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among the stripped-down algae.
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The turtle's stop at the beauty salon makes
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a gracious welcome to the Galapagos Islands.
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It would have been even better if the water weren't so cold.
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Despite the Panama Current's warm water,
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competing currents and winds keep the ocean
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around the Galapagos cooler than
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anywhere else on the equator.
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The tropical turtle faces a dilemma.
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Turtles love warm water but their food grows
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where it is cold.
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Until dinner is served, the turtle wants to warm up.
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She ends her long annual journey at a curious place
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near the shore of Fernandina Island.
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The mangrove is one of the few plants
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to thrive in salt water.
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Its roots draw nutrients from the water
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and filter up to 90% of the salt.
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But that's not what appeals to the chilly turtle
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taking a break from the high seas.
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The shallow pools between the mangroves are
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warmer than the open ocean
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and sea turtles find that hard to resist.
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Once they get there, they aren't picky.
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In their hypothermic state many just
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sink to the bottom and rest.
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Those who still have energy look for
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a grotto under the roots,
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or just lean against them.
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The main thing is to get warm.
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They camp out, waiting for the Galapagos algae
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to grow so they can get first crack at it.
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The mangrove forest provides sanctuary from the
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sharp and hostile volcanic rocks.
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And where it reaches the ocean,
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a sharp-eyed predator is on the hunt.
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The Galapagos lava heron.
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The shorebird usually sticks to the mangroves,
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though sometimes he likes to step out
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for a little variety.
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Water does not seem to be his element.
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He avoids getting wet and looks for other prey.
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The crabs look good today.
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The red adults have nothing to fear,
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but it's a different story for the tender young ones.
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Against the rocks, they're hard to spot
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as long as they don't move.
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Game on.
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They're delicious,
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shells and all.
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Over the steep cliffs of Espanola Island,
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a seasonal visitor casts a long shadow.
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The waved albatross, the island's largest bird
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with a wing span of more than eight feet.
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Once a year these graceful gliders converge
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off the coast of the secluded island
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about the size of Manhattan.
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In the coming weeks, the oldest of the Galapagos Islands
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will become the meeting place for 20,000 albatrosses.
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Like his brethren, this male has come to raise his young.
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He's spent six months gliding without touching solid ground.
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His leg muscles aren't what they used to be
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so landing is the tricky part.
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Walking takes some getting used to.
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Normally the males come to Espanola
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well before the females.
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He's late, most of the couples have already
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found one another.
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Albatrosses mate for life, up to 30 years,
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and he knows his partner is waiting.
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But where is she?
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The latecomer's not getting much sympathy
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(albatross honks)
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but he persists.
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He combs the entire colony.
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Has something happened to her?
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A big change is coming to the Galapagos Islands.
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(waves roar)
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As the Humboldt Current gathers more strength,
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its chilly fingers reach in to the mangrove forest
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and tap the sea turtle into action.
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She's spent the last few weeks munching mangrove roots.
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Now the ocean calls.
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The first of the delicate algae starts to
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grow among the coral.
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It thrives here like almost nowhere else
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in the tropical Pacific,
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thanks to the cool Humboldt Current.
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The luscious cold buffet motivates the turtle
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to make an exhausting journey.
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It's worth braving the shivering temperatures.
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The springtime arrival of the Humboldt Current
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arouses another kind of appetite.
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This young blue-footed booby has come to Espanola
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looking for a mate.
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It's his first time.
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He's got just what it takes to impress the ladies.
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Blue feet, the bluer they are, the fitter he is.
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(bird honks)
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But he's come to the wrong place.
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Only bachelors here,
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no females,
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with one exception.
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She's right in front of him,
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eyeing him with her large pupils.
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Her mate's also got his eye on him,
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and for good reason.
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Unlike albatrosses, boobies aren't loyal.
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The bachelor starts his seduction.
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It's working, she can't stop looking at
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his sexy blue feet.
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Her partner is only seeing red.
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They argue
(birds honk)
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and the bachelor makes his bold move
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(birds honk)
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but gets rebuffed.
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Well, maybe next time.
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The male albatross is still looking for his mate
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and at last he finds her.
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(albatross honks)
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(albatross honks)
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So late in the season, will they have enough time
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to raise a chick?
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Some of their fellow albatrosses already have hatchlings.
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From egg to chick takes about two months.
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They'll take turns caring for the chick and hunting.
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Unlike other sea birds, albatrosses fish
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far out on the ocean and are often away for weeks.
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As time passes, the partner left behind gets
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restless and concerned.
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They sit on their egg without anyone to
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take over the shift.
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As days turn to weeks, they tire of
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wondering if their spouse will ever return.
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Some lose all hope.
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That is precisely what this fellow has been waiting for.
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Galapagos mockingbirds have learned that
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the Humboldt Current brings the albatrosses,
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and albatrosses bring fresh eggs.
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The situation is perilous for the straggling pair.
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Not only are they behind schedule,
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but the the mockingbirds are getting bolder.
266
00:31:54,009 --> 00:31:56,250
While the albatrosses try to defend their spot
267
00:31:56,250 --> 00:31:59,527
on the island, off the coast the Humboldt Current
268
00:31:59,527 --> 00:32:02,444
brings in another wave of visitors,
269
00:32:17,635 --> 00:32:19,718
the scalloped hammerhead.
270
00:32:29,708 --> 00:32:33,875
The largest congregation of these sharks in the world.
271
00:32:50,648 --> 00:32:52,398
They've come to mate.
272
00:32:53,672 --> 00:32:57,814
By the hundreds, females gather in the middle of the group
273
00:32:57,814 --> 00:33:00,647
while the males stay on the edges.
274
00:33:17,132 --> 00:33:20,549
No one knows why they segregate like this
275
00:33:31,651 --> 00:33:35,527
but after they mate and before they disperse
276
00:33:35,527 --> 00:33:38,575
there's one more thing to do.
277
00:33:38,575 --> 00:33:42,164
They head to nearby reefs to clean up.
278
00:33:42,164 --> 00:33:46,924
The females have small wounds around their gills.
279
00:33:46,924 --> 00:33:50,277
Love bites made by the males getting a grip
280
00:33:50,277 --> 00:33:52,194
during their encounter.
281
00:33:54,247 --> 00:33:56,414
The wounds need cleansing.
282
00:34:02,040 --> 00:34:05,623
Once again, the tropical fish take the job.
283
00:34:08,831 --> 00:34:12,998
The sharks tilt their bodies to show they're ready
284
00:34:18,630 --> 00:34:22,547
but there are simply too many sharks to handle.
285
00:34:25,848 --> 00:34:29,348
The barber fish don't know where to start.
286
00:34:31,277 --> 00:34:35,962
To attract attention, a hammerhead needs a gimmick.
287
00:34:35,962 --> 00:34:39,212
Maybe a shark shimmy will do the trick.
288
00:35:07,287 --> 00:35:09,209
Despite the fancy fin work,
289
00:35:09,209 --> 00:35:12,292
only a few lucky sharks get selected.
290
00:35:27,799 --> 00:35:31,132
The barber fish run a very exclusive spa
291
00:35:32,753 --> 00:35:36,420
and the hammerheads need to wait their turn.
292
00:35:58,496 --> 00:36:02,527
The young booby also needs to be patient.
293
00:36:02,527 --> 00:36:04,694
Still no females in sight.
294
00:36:07,321 --> 00:36:09,613
(bird whistles and honks)
295
00:36:09,613 --> 00:36:12,125
He's been scanning the sky for days
296
00:36:12,125 --> 00:36:14,994
and practicing his best moves.
297
00:36:14,994 --> 00:36:17,661
(bird whistles)
298
00:36:27,181 --> 00:36:29,431
At last, here's his chance.
299
00:36:39,103 --> 00:36:41,103
He'd better not blow it.
300
00:36:45,295 --> 00:36:46,628
First the wings.
301
00:36:50,214 --> 00:36:52,381
And don't forget the feet.
302
00:36:57,736 --> 00:37:00,403
(bird whistles)
303
00:37:12,255 --> 00:37:13,838
She's underwhelmed.
304
00:37:16,371 --> 00:37:19,121
Maybe a gift will warm her heart.
305
00:37:27,596 --> 00:37:30,772
She's holding out for something better.
306
00:37:30,772 --> 00:37:33,189
(bird honks)
307
00:37:41,726 --> 00:37:42,976
She's accepted.
308
00:37:44,349 --> 00:37:47,682
The young booby almost can't believe it.
309
00:37:57,573 --> 00:37:59,990
(bird honks)
310
00:38:20,182 --> 00:38:23,932
Mission accomplished, you'll become a father.
311
00:38:34,328 --> 00:38:38,495
The late-starting albatross pair has made it, too.
312
00:38:42,602 --> 00:38:46,769
After weeks of waiting, he urgently needs to fish.
313
00:38:52,499 --> 00:38:54,999
No time for romantic goodbyes.
314
00:39:12,239 --> 00:39:16,301
She hides the precious egg under her plumage
315
00:39:16,301 --> 00:39:19,144
and will keep a careful watch on it
316
00:39:19,144 --> 00:39:22,394
because the mockingbirds certainly are.
317
00:39:55,817 --> 00:39:57,067
That was close.
318
00:39:59,802 --> 00:40:01,867
As she waits for her partner,
319
00:40:01,867 --> 00:40:04,700
out in the ocean a drastic change.
320
00:40:06,404 --> 00:40:10,096
The Humboldt Current is back in full force.
321
00:40:10,096 --> 00:40:12,513
(waves roar)
322
00:40:18,617 --> 00:40:22,784
The water is murkier now, food instantly everywhere
323
00:40:24,130 --> 00:40:25,963
courtesy of cold water
324
00:40:31,792 --> 00:40:34,542
bringing with it schools of fish.
325
00:40:49,738 --> 00:40:53,387
All of a sudden the ocean off the Galapagos
326
00:40:53,387 --> 00:40:54,970
shimmers with life.
327
00:41:16,170 --> 00:41:20,337
The chilly, nutrient-rich water feeds the multitudes.
328
00:41:41,439 --> 00:41:44,905
The marine iguana is back in business.
329
00:41:44,905 --> 00:41:48,411
No more death-defying dives into the surf
330
00:41:48,411 --> 00:41:50,744
just to get a bite of lunch.
331
00:41:54,712 --> 00:41:57,129
(waves roar)
332
00:42:07,134 --> 00:42:09,227
But just because their bellies are full
333
00:42:09,227 --> 00:42:12,310
doesn't mean their troubles are over.
334
00:42:39,136 --> 00:42:42,553
For the males, feeding leads to fighting.
335
00:42:45,295 --> 00:42:49,462
Like sumo wrestlers, they test their strength in the ring.
336
00:42:52,939 --> 00:42:57,106
The winner gains a little turf and the right to mate.
337
00:43:12,922 --> 00:43:15,922
At the end of round one, it's a tie.
338
00:43:17,564 --> 00:43:20,314
They take a break between rounds.
339
00:43:22,476 --> 00:43:26,143
Marine iguanas can't breathe while fighting.
340
00:43:28,978 --> 00:43:33,145
The action heats up as another contender enters the ring.
341
00:43:40,574 --> 00:43:42,407
This is his big break,
342
00:43:51,379 --> 00:43:53,753
but he needs to separate the wranglers
343
00:43:53,753 --> 00:43:56,003
in order to join the fight.
344
00:44:25,924 --> 00:44:30,159
The bantamweight brawler doesn't have what it takes.
345
00:44:30,159 --> 00:44:32,742
The others are just too strong.
346
00:44:36,697 --> 00:44:38,614
He throws in the towel.
347
00:44:44,899 --> 00:44:47,846
Prosperity has presented new challenges for
348
00:44:47,846 --> 00:44:50,951
the blue-footed boobies, too.
349
00:44:50,951 --> 00:44:53,951
Their population has nearly doubled.
350
00:44:56,270 --> 00:44:58,187
The young are thriving.
351
00:44:59,192 --> 00:45:01,525
Some have only just hatched,
352
00:45:02,576 --> 00:45:06,743
while others test their wings for the first flight.
353
00:45:16,604 --> 00:45:20,521
At last, their parents arrive with their lunch.
354
00:45:25,045 --> 00:45:28,045
These hungry chicks can hardly wait,
355
00:45:38,158 --> 00:45:40,075
but here comes trouble,
356
00:45:48,762 --> 00:45:50,929
magnificent frigate birds.
357
00:45:51,877 --> 00:45:53,460
Pirates of the air.
358
00:46:47,576 --> 00:46:52,348
Awkward on land and sea, these aggressive, agile flyers
359
00:46:52,348 --> 00:46:54,598
rarely fish for themselves.
360
00:46:56,228 --> 00:46:57,978
They prefer to steal,
361
00:47:04,129 --> 00:47:08,296
and there's nothing the blue-footed boobies can do about it
362
00:47:11,944 --> 00:47:16,111
except catch more fish in the generous Humboldt Current.
363
00:47:21,594 --> 00:47:23,927
The albatrosses also suffer.
364
00:47:28,295 --> 00:47:30,662
With all the food thieves on the island,
365
00:47:30,662 --> 00:47:34,829
it's a wonder the chicks get anything to eat at all.
366
00:47:43,551 --> 00:47:46,312
In a few weeks they'll be able to fly,
367
00:47:46,312 --> 00:47:49,145
but only if they eat heartily now.
368
00:48:08,826 --> 00:48:11,579
On Espanola, the albatross parents have
369
00:48:11,579 --> 00:48:14,496
pesky mockingbirds to contend with.
370
00:49:16,085 --> 00:49:19,757
These avian annoyers are like ants at a picnic,
371
00:49:19,757 --> 00:49:22,590
only hungrier and more aggressive.
372
00:49:27,671 --> 00:49:30,226
They rely almost completely on the albatrosses
373
00:49:30,226 --> 00:49:31,476
for their food.
374
00:49:32,815 --> 00:49:35,846
But in a few weeks, the mockingbirds will have to
375
00:49:35,846 --> 00:49:38,180
fend for themselves.
376
00:49:38,180 --> 00:49:40,930
The albatrosses will take to the air and spend
377
00:49:40,930 --> 00:49:44,013
the next six months out in the ocean,
378
00:49:47,659 --> 00:49:49,242
with one exception.
379
00:49:57,863 --> 00:50:02,030
The chronically-late male albatross is finally back.
380
00:50:09,781 --> 00:50:13,948
He was out hunting for days and hasn't seen his partner,
381
00:50:15,169 --> 00:50:17,586
(bird honks)
382
00:50:18,545 --> 00:50:20,717
leaving her to protect their egg from
383
00:50:20,717 --> 00:50:23,217
the onslaught of mockingbirds.
384
00:50:33,386 --> 00:50:36,053
All their efforts have paid off.
385
00:50:40,988 --> 00:50:43,175
They're among the lucky ones,
386
00:50:43,175 --> 00:50:47,342
the inhabitants that have learned to survive here.
387
00:50:56,689 --> 00:50:59,808
On the Galapagos Islands, life ebbs and flows
388
00:50:59,808 --> 00:51:03,725
in the crossroads of relentless ocean currents.
389
00:51:06,677 --> 00:51:10,094
Everything here is subject to their whim,
390
00:51:12,979 --> 00:51:15,062
energized by their power,
391
00:51:17,956 --> 00:51:20,123
tuned to their vibrations.
392
00:51:23,069 --> 00:51:26,448
This land of castaways and seasonal visitors
393
00:51:26,448 --> 00:51:28,365
favors the resourceful.
394
00:51:30,729 --> 00:51:34,322
It rewards those who thrive by surrendering to,
395
00:51:34,322 --> 00:51:37,822
and sometimes challenging, the moody tide.
396
00:51:39,962 --> 00:51:42,448
That's life on the Galapagos,
397
00:51:42,448 --> 00:51:45,294
an enchanted world under the spell of
398
00:51:45,294 --> 00:51:46,961
the ocean currents.
30047
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