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1
00:00:03,320 --> 00:00:05,240
Hi, I'm Andrew Graham Dixon
2
00:00:05,240 --> 00:00:07,560
and I'm an art historian.
3
00:00:07,560 --> 00:00:09,800
These ancient roads
are slightly bumpy.
4
00:00:11,800 --> 00:00:14,280
And I'm Giorgio Locatelli
and I'm a cook.
5
00:00:15,880 --> 00:00:17,400
We've been all over Italy,
6
00:00:17,400 --> 00:00:21,440
revealing her gastronomic and
artistic treasures,
7
00:00:21,440 --> 00:00:25,600
but now we've come to the beating
heart of the country, Rome.
8
00:00:29,440 --> 00:00:34,600
It's a 2,000 year old metropolis
where past and present collide.
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00:00:34,600 --> 00:00:37,000
It's as unique for an art lover...
10
00:00:37,000 --> 00:00:41,200
In the same moment he's also Christ
on the cross.
11
00:00:42,200 --> 00:00:44,280
..as it is for a food lover.
12
00:00:44,280 --> 00:00:47,920
Today I'm going to cook you a dish
that is really steep in history.
13
00:00:49,640 --> 00:00:53,200
We will test traditional recipes
beloved by the Romans.
14
00:00:53,200 --> 00:00:55,600
I'm not leaving this here.
He's not going to let me have any.
15
00:00:55,600 --> 00:00:59,520
And we'll plunge our forks into the
cultures that have shaped the city.
16
00:00:59,520 --> 00:01:03,360
The Trevi Fountain, famous as
Italian ice cream.
17
00:01:03,360 --> 00:01:06,960
We'll explore Rome's greatest
works of art and architecture.
18
00:01:06,960 --> 00:01:10,600
Uno. Due. Tre.
19
00:01:10,600 --> 00:01:12,720
Full of light... Incredible.
20
00:01:15,680 --> 00:01:18,480
..but also, sometimes, darkness.
21
00:01:18,480 --> 00:01:20,360
It's the voice of conscience.
22
00:01:20,360 --> 00:01:22,200
I think it's a truthful voice.
23
00:01:42,600 --> 00:01:46,880
I cannot imagine anything to do in
life better than this.
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00:01:47,920 --> 00:01:49,560
And with you in the back, as well.
25
00:01:51,120 --> 00:01:53,880
It's always been my belief that to
understand Rome,
26
00:01:53,880 --> 00:01:56,320
you must first
understand the Roman people.
27
00:01:58,840 --> 00:02:01,360
They've always been the driving
force behind the city.
28
00:02:04,800 --> 00:02:08,320
From ancient times, the Romans have
acclaimed each new Emperor...
29
00:02:11,840 --> 00:02:15,120
..roared their approval or
disapproval of each new Pope
30
00:02:15,120 --> 00:02:17,760
and they show no sign
of stopping that.
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00:02:19,840 --> 00:02:22,360
They're always larger than life,
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00:02:22,360 --> 00:02:25,040
divided, opinionated,
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00:02:25,040 --> 00:02:27,000
passionate, unpredictable.
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00:02:28,400 --> 00:02:30,360
Rome might be Italy's centre of
government...
35
00:02:31,960 --> 00:02:35,240
..but no-one could be harder to
govern than the Romans.
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00:02:42,560 --> 00:02:46,040
Our journey begins in the historic
centre of Rome,
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00:02:46,040 --> 00:02:49,680
the politically charged
Capitoline Hill.
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00:02:49,680 --> 00:02:51,760
The smallest and most important of
39
00:02:51,760 --> 00:02:53,760
the seven hills of ancient Rome,
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00:02:53,760 --> 00:02:57,400
it was originally the site of one of
the city's most sacred temples
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00:02:57,400 --> 00:02:59,760
and later became the seat
of the Senate.
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00:03:00,880 --> 00:03:02,480
Look at this. Amazing.
43
00:03:02,480 --> 00:03:03,960
Excuse me.
44
00:03:03,960 --> 00:03:06,640
Caput Mundi. Here we are.
45
00:03:06,640 --> 00:03:09,880
But it's empty. We have
the whole square to ourselves.
46
00:03:09,880 --> 00:03:11,040
That is unbelievable.
47
00:03:11,040 --> 00:03:13,280
That's like having an opera
performance just for you.
48
00:03:25,120 --> 00:03:27,440
But it is like a piece of theatre.
49
00:03:27,440 --> 00:03:29,600
Yeah. This is THE place.
50
00:03:29,600 --> 00:03:31,960
Yeah, yeah, you're right.
51
00:03:31,960 --> 00:03:33,520
So many things happened here.
52
00:03:33,520 --> 00:03:35,960
Friends, Romans, lend me your ears.
53
00:03:35,960 --> 00:03:37,840
After the death of Caesar,
54
00:03:37,840 --> 00:03:42,320
Petrarch, he comes here to receive
his laurel crown
55
00:03:42,320 --> 00:03:47,880
and then Napoleon declares his
short-lived rule over Italy.
56
00:03:47,880 --> 00:03:49,960
Not very important.
Don't talk about him.
57
00:03:49,960 --> 00:03:51,680
But still, they always come here.
58
00:03:51,680 --> 00:03:54,960
This is the place.
Even in the Second World War,
59
00:03:54,960 --> 00:03:56,840
General Clark really
didn't feel like
60
00:03:56,840 --> 00:03:59,640
he'd achieved anything until he
arrived here.
61
00:03:59,640 --> 00:04:02,680
Well, we talk about, often,
Michelangelo the sculptor...
62
00:04:02,680 --> 00:04:06,120
Yeah. ..Michelangelo the painter,
who created the Sistine Chapel...
63
00:04:06,120 --> 00:04:09,560
Yeah. ..but sometimes we forget,
this is Michelangelo the architect,
64
00:04:09,560 --> 00:04:13,040
and he creates this beautiful
star pavement,
65
00:04:13,040 --> 00:04:15,200
almost like this is the sun.
66
00:04:15,200 --> 00:04:17,280
And at the centre of it all,
67
00:04:17,280 --> 00:04:20,280
this great statue of
Marcus Aurelius,
68
00:04:20,280 --> 00:04:23,320
one of the most famous statues
in the world.
69
00:04:23,320 --> 00:04:26,560
This statue's stood here, really,
for 2,000 years.
70
00:04:26,560 --> 00:04:29,240
The very first equestrian statue.
71
00:04:29,240 --> 00:04:33,280
And in Roman times this signified
the status of the ruler,
72
00:04:33,280 --> 00:04:35,880
that the Emperor,
he is astride the horse,
73
00:04:35,880 --> 00:04:37,840
just as he is, metaphorically,
74
00:04:37,840 --> 00:04:39,200
he's in charge of his people.
75
00:04:40,480 --> 00:04:44,000
There he is, the great
philosopher emperor,
76
00:04:44,000 --> 00:04:46,680
founder of modern mindfulness,
77
00:04:46,680 --> 00:04:48,760
author of works on happiness.
78
00:04:48,760 --> 00:04:50,840
Extraordinary man.
79
00:04:50,840 --> 00:04:54,480
The only reason it survived
was that Pope Paul III,
80
00:04:54,480 --> 00:04:57,880
for whom Michelangelo redesigned
this square during the Renaissance,
81
00:04:57,880 --> 00:05:01,960
he actually believed that to be a
representation of the very first
82
00:05:01,960 --> 00:05:03,840
Christian emperor, Constantine.
83
00:05:03,840 --> 00:05:06,760
I see. And that's why he
allowed it to remain,
84
00:05:06,760 --> 00:05:09,920
because all the Roman pagan
monuments...
85
00:05:09,920 --> 00:05:12,640
All melted. If they were made
of bronze, they go.
86
00:05:12,640 --> 00:05:14,680
So this thing only survives
because of a mistake.
87
00:05:14,680 --> 00:05:16,040
Fantastic. Thank God for that.
88
00:05:16,040 --> 00:05:19,160
One of the most famous statues
in the world. It's beautiful.
89
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Look at the horse.
90
00:05:21,160 --> 00:05:22,600
There's two Romes, always.
91
00:05:22,600 --> 00:05:24,520
There's the Rome of the
great and the powerful,
92
00:05:24,520 --> 00:05:26,920
and there's the Rome of the people,
the Rome of the mob.
93
00:05:26,920 --> 00:05:30,040
And this place is where
the two meet each other.
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00:05:30,040 --> 00:05:32,520
Andrew, come, I want to ask
you something.
95
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You know what that mean?
96
00:05:34,600 --> 00:05:38,360
Senatus Populusque Romanus.
97
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It's a central idea of Ancient Rome.
98
00:05:41,280 --> 00:05:43,880
Those who rule, only rule with the
collaboration of the people.
99
00:05:43,880 --> 00:05:46,240
With the collaboration...
of the people...
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00:05:46,240 --> 00:05:49,280
of Rome. That means a representation
101
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of the mob, as we call it.
102
00:05:52,520 --> 00:05:57,080
The modern world is built on
this value, on this idea,
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00:05:57,080 --> 00:06:00,800
that the people are part of
the government.
104
00:06:00,800 --> 00:06:04,600
And, you know, this is so
everywhere in Rome.
105
00:06:04,600 --> 00:06:09,440
Look, the aqueduct, water,
everybody, SPQR.
106
00:06:09,440 --> 00:06:11,160
It really is everywhere. That's it.
107
00:06:19,840 --> 00:06:22,000
It's pretty unique to see the power
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00:06:22,000 --> 00:06:25,640
of the people declared in every
corner of their own city.
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Thanks to that,
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00:06:27,080 --> 00:06:31,600
the Roman always maintain a strong
sense of ownership over Rome,
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00:06:31,600 --> 00:06:34,480
throughout the Republic
and Imperial eras.
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00:06:37,560 --> 00:06:41,040
But the Empire ended in 476 AD.
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00:06:44,800 --> 00:06:47,400
Over the following centuries it was
replaced by rulers
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more interested in
exerting power over the people.
115
00:06:52,280 --> 00:06:53,440
Fantastico.
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00:06:57,800 --> 00:07:01,280
By the eighth century Rome was the
capital of the Papal States,
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00:07:01,280 --> 00:07:03,560
ruled by cardinals and popes.
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00:07:06,040 --> 00:07:08,680
These ambitious men of God
loved nothing more
119
00:07:08,680 --> 00:07:13,640
than to proclaim their own vast
power with grandiose monuments.
120
00:07:13,640 --> 00:07:17,920
But even they knew that they also
had to please the people.
121
00:07:17,920 --> 00:07:19,400
For me, the best,
122
00:07:19,400 --> 00:07:23,480
most extravagant example of this
Papal showmanship in all of Rome...
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00:07:25,520 --> 00:07:26,880
..is the Trevi Fountain.
124
00:07:33,280 --> 00:07:37,600
Commissioned by Pope Clement XII,
in the 18th century.
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00:07:37,600 --> 00:07:41,920
As famous as Italian ice cream, it
looks like it's made of ice cream.
126
00:07:41,920 --> 00:07:43,840
The Trevi Fountain.
127
00:07:43,840 --> 00:07:46,080
It's so beautiful.
128
00:07:46,080 --> 00:07:48,760
In the Roman times
it's bread and circuses.
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00:07:48,760 --> 00:07:50,840
In the Papal times it's fountains.
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00:07:50,840 --> 00:07:53,040
That's how you really
impress your people.
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00:07:53,040 --> 00:07:58,320
This is the culmination of a kind of
centuries-long fountain competition.
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00:07:58,320 --> 00:08:01,400
Every Pope wants to put
a great fountain.
133
00:08:01,400 --> 00:08:03,360
It gets bigger and bigger
and bigger and bigger
134
00:08:03,360 --> 00:08:06,720
and then, finally,
this fountain goes up.
135
00:08:06,720 --> 00:08:09,000
And everybody just goes,
"You know what..."
136
00:08:09,000 --> 00:08:11,720
"Maybe we should stop it."
"Maybe we should stop now."
137
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It's the entire side of a palace.
138
00:08:14,480 --> 00:08:18,800
In the middle,
the God of the seas, Neptune.
139
00:08:19,840 --> 00:08:23,240
On the left, you've got Abundance.
140
00:08:23,240 --> 00:08:27,080
She's emphasising that, "Oh,
it's not just Papal extravagance.
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00:08:27,080 --> 00:08:28,800
"Without this water..."
142
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Nothing grow. Nothing grows.
143
00:08:30,640 --> 00:08:33,720
And that's continued in this
lovely detail of the plants...
144
00:08:33,720 --> 00:08:36,440
Yes. ..that's sort of growing up
around the fountain.
145
00:08:37,600 --> 00:08:39,920
Love that one, look,
growing on the rocks.
146
00:08:39,920 --> 00:08:42,680
Looks like a lettuce or something.
Yeah.
147
00:08:43,640 --> 00:08:45,760
I think my favourite detail are
148
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these horses because they've got
fish's tails,
149
00:08:48,560 --> 00:08:51,800
horse's bodies, and they've
also got wings.
150
00:08:51,800 --> 00:08:54,040
Wings. Everything is there.
151
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And it's all invented
in one go here.
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That is so brilliant.
153
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Even as it started to go up,
154
00:09:00,520 --> 00:09:03,400
people knew this was
something pretty special,
155
00:09:03,400 --> 00:09:05,920
and that's why the inscriptions
are so confusing
156
00:09:05,920 --> 00:09:08,640
because everyone wanted
to have their name on it.
157
00:09:08,640 --> 00:09:11,560
So it was commissioned by
Pope Clement XII,
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00:09:11,560 --> 00:09:16,200
but in 1735, before the fountain
is finished, he knows he's dying,
159
00:09:16,200 --> 00:09:19,320
so he quickly makes sure that his
name was inscribed.
160
00:09:19,320 --> 00:09:23,720
Then, below, in the gold,
we see Benedict XIV...
161
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..in his...
162
00:09:26,440 --> 00:09:29,480
Well, basically, in his time,
it was actually finished
163
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and declared open.
164
00:09:31,840 --> 00:09:35,480
And then if you look below,
another Pope, Clement XIII,
165
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I think he did some additions
to the aqueduct work
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00:09:37,920 --> 00:09:40,680
or something. And he said, "No,
I want my name on it, too."
167
00:09:40,680 --> 00:09:42,520
Yeah, it's not three coins
in the fountain,
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it's three Popes in a fountain.
169
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But in the end, the Italian who
really put his name on it,
170
00:09:48,600 --> 00:09:51,000
although he didn't put
his name on it...
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Federico Fellini. Yes.
172
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Marcello, where are you?
173
00:10:02,120 --> 00:10:03,800
My goodness.
174
00:10:08,760 --> 00:10:10,200
Fellini, more than anyone else,
175
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with the scene in La Dolce Vita
176
00:10:11,800 --> 00:10:14,760
where Anita Ekberg
wades into the fountain,
177
00:10:14,760 --> 00:10:17,640
and her friend, Marcello,
Marcello Mastroianni.
178
00:10:17,640 --> 00:10:19,120
They made the fountain, that was
179
00:10:19,120 --> 00:10:20,960
already the fountain
of the people of Rome,
180
00:10:20,960 --> 00:10:22,960
became the fountain of
the people of the world.
181
00:10:22,960 --> 00:10:24,720
Of the world, that's right.
182
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Absolutely.
183
00:10:33,800 --> 00:10:36,240
Oscar winner Federico Fellini was
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one of the most famous
Italian film directors.
185
00:10:39,600 --> 00:10:42,560
Although from Rimini,
Fellini found his real home in Rome.
186
00:10:44,400 --> 00:10:47,160
He responded above all
to the people of the city.
187
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Their passion, their love
of spectacle
188
00:10:50,440 --> 00:10:53,680
and he put them at the heart
of much of his work.
189
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In his 1960s masterpiece
La Dolce Vita,
190
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a satire on Roman high society,
191
00:11:01,360 --> 00:11:05,600
he transformed the city's classical
sites into vibrant film sets.
192
00:11:07,560 --> 00:11:10,200
Hollywood and its starlets
flooded in,
193
00:11:10,200 --> 00:11:13,120
making Rome the centre of
the world once again.
194
00:11:16,040 --> 00:11:20,160
In the '50s here you had...
195
00:11:20,160 --> 00:11:24,440
..Gary Cooper, everybody, and there
would be people there just watching.
196
00:11:24,440 --> 00:11:26,560
Just standing there on the street
just watching.
197
00:11:26,560 --> 00:11:28,960
Look and see what's happening,
who's having a coffee,
198
00:11:28,960 --> 00:11:30,760
who's drinking something.
199
00:11:30,760 --> 00:11:32,960
And Fellini was right
at the base of this.
200
00:11:32,960 --> 00:11:37,960
He was kind of the spark and just
illuminated the whole thing.
201
00:11:43,240 --> 00:11:45,280
Although Fellini could have worked
202
00:11:45,280 --> 00:11:47,760
with any of the big star
of the time,
203
00:11:47,760 --> 00:11:50,240
he never turned his back
on the Romans.
204
00:11:51,240 --> 00:11:55,640
And in any ordinary man and woman on
the street he may find the potential
205
00:11:55,640 --> 00:12:00,280
extra to give him the raw quality he
was always looking for in his film.
206
00:12:03,600 --> 00:12:07,040
Buongiorno, Silvano. Buongiorno.
Buongiorno.
207
00:12:07,040 --> 00:12:10,520
Silvano Spoletini was 21 years old
208
00:12:10,520 --> 00:12:14,040
and working as
an encyclopaedia binder
209
00:12:14,040 --> 00:12:18,240
when Fellini picked him
to be an extra in his film Roma.
210
00:12:18,240 --> 00:12:22,520
From that moment he went on
to have a 60-year career,
211
00:12:22,520 --> 00:12:27,040
working on films such as
Ocean's 12 and Gangs of New York.
212
00:12:29,200 --> 00:12:33,280
They called him The Lighthouse
because he was the leading light
213
00:12:33,280 --> 00:12:35,240
and everybody follow him.
214
00:13:20,960 --> 00:13:25,040
The capacity of the Roman to,
kind of, reinvent themselves
215
00:13:25,040 --> 00:13:26,760
or to push little bit.
216
00:13:26,760 --> 00:13:29,520
What are you doing this morning?
I haven't got no job.
217
00:13:29,520 --> 00:13:33,040
I'm walking down Piazza del Popolo.
Maybe Fellini's going to pick me up.
218
00:13:33,040 --> 00:13:36,160
Maybe he's going to put me in a
film. There's always a chance.
219
00:13:36,160 --> 00:13:38,280
I like that about the Romans, no?
220
00:13:38,280 --> 00:13:41,480
I think it's...
That's why it's eternal, the city,
221
00:13:41,480 --> 00:13:44,160
because of the people.
We say that so many times
222
00:13:54,000 --> 00:13:58,040
It's now time to cook Andrew
a classic Roman dish.
223
00:13:58,040 --> 00:14:01,520
Despite the opulent culinary
tradition of the rich,
224
00:14:01,520 --> 00:14:05,040
the food that survive
is the cuisine of the people.
225
00:14:05,040 --> 00:14:06,280
Buongiorno.
226
00:14:06,280 --> 00:14:09,760
Simple dishes that have
stood the test of time
227
00:14:09,760 --> 00:14:12,480
and everything that I need
can be found
228
00:14:12,480 --> 00:14:15,040
in one of the city's hidden gems.
229
00:14:15,040 --> 00:14:18,760
Situated on Monteverde hill
in south-west Rome,
230
00:14:18,760 --> 00:14:23,760
San Giovanni di Dio is one of
Rome's most vibrant markets.
231
00:14:23,760 --> 00:14:26,280
I love this great amount
of greenery.
232
00:14:26,280 --> 00:14:28,520
Greenery everywhere.
You see how much?
233
00:14:28,520 --> 00:14:30,280
It's like... This is bietina.
234
00:14:30,280 --> 00:14:32,760
It's like all this different
type of spinach.
235
00:14:32,760 --> 00:14:34,960
Very much at the base
of what they cook.
236
00:14:34,960 --> 00:14:38,040
I mean, you don't see anything
that is not seasonal here, do you?
237
00:14:38,040 --> 00:14:40,520
No. It's all grown
around the corner.
238
00:14:40,520 --> 00:14:43,280
That doesn't say,
flown in from Israel.
239
00:14:43,280 --> 00:14:46,640
That's, like, driven in by Enzo
this morning.
240
00:14:49,880 --> 00:14:51,120
Andrew.
241
00:14:52,920 --> 00:14:55,520
That's what we want to buy.
Oh, the Romanesco!
242
00:14:55,520 --> 00:14:57,200
Buongiorno.
243
00:14:57,200 --> 00:14:59,280
Due Romanesco.
244
00:14:59,280 --> 00:15:01,760
One of the main ingredients
of my dish
245
00:15:01,760 --> 00:15:04,280
are these beautiful
Romanesco broccoli.
246
00:15:04,280 --> 00:15:05,760
Perfecto.
247
00:15:07,880 --> 00:15:09,280
Due carota.
248
00:15:10,280 --> 00:15:12,280
Quattordici quarantacinque.
249
00:15:12,280 --> 00:15:13,800
Grazie.
250
00:15:13,800 --> 00:15:17,760
Next, it's time to buy
the main ingredient.
251
00:15:17,760 --> 00:15:20,880
So, what are we going to buy?
We're going to buy a razza.
252
00:15:20,880 --> 00:15:23,120
It's called arzilla in Rome
253
00:15:23,120 --> 00:15:25,040
and it's called skate in England.
254
00:15:25,040 --> 00:15:27,520
All the fish have so many
different names.
255
00:15:27,520 --> 00:15:29,200
In all, it has about, like,
256
00:15:29,200 --> 00:15:31,040
12 different names in Italy.
257
00:15:31,040 --> 00:15:35,920
Right, right.
HE SPEAKS ITALIAN
258
00:15:35,920 --> 00:15:38,040
So, you better get your skates on.
259
00:15:38,040 --> 00:15:41,640
THEY SPEAK ITALIAN
260
00:15:47,720 --> 00:15:49,960
He already
knows what I'm going to cook.
261
00:15:49,960 --> 00:15:51,360
Which is..?
262
00:15:51,360 --> 00:15:53,440
Pasta broccoli con arzilla.
263
00:15:53,440 --> 00:15:55,320
Pasta broccoli con arzilla.
264
00:16:01,960 --> 00:16:04,840
THEY SPEAK ITALIAN
265
00:16:04,840 --> 00:16:07,040
62 years he's been in the market.
266
00:16:10,360 --> 00:16:12,560
Tu sempre questa..? Cento questa.
267
00:16:12,560 --> 00:16:15,360
It's 100 years that they've had this
stall on this market.
268
00:16:15,360 --> 00:16:16,600
Wow.
269
00:16:21,920 --> 00:16:23,400
He says, "Do you want some parsley?"
270
00:16:23,400 --> 00:16:24,800
because when they serve the fish,
271
00:16:24,800 --> 00:16:26,840
they give you present, a little bit
of parsley.
272
00:16:26,840 --> 00:16:28,560
What do you want more than that?
273
00:16:28,560 --> 00:16:30,680
Grazie. Grazie, buona giornata.
274
00:16:30,680 --> 00:16:32,240
So we have everything we need now.
275
00:16:32,240 --> 00:16:34,200
Now we have everything we need.
276
00:16:34,200 --> 00:16:35,240
So we can go and eat.
277
00:16:35,240 --> 00:16:37,000
Let's go and cook first.
278
00:16:37,000 --> 00:16:39,160
I forgot that bit.
279
00:16:39,160 --> 00:16:41,160
I forgot that bit...
280
00:16:42,720 --> 00:16:44,280
Una, una...
281
00:16:44,280 --> 00:16:45,520
What are you doing?!
282
00:16:50,880 --> 00:16:53,760
Andrew, today I'm going to cook you
a dish that
283
00:16:53,760 --> 00:16:55,800
is really steeped in history.
284
00:16:55,800 --> 00:16:58,400
I'm going to cook a delicious
centuries-old
285
00:16:58,400 --> 00:17:00,080
fish soup with vegetables.
286
00:17:01,440 --> 00:17:03,920
Let's start with the fish first.
287
00:17:03,920 --> 00:17:06,400
The skin of the skate is very spiky
288
00:17:06,400 --> 00:17:08,640
so it's important to scrape it
289
00:17:08,640 --> 00:17:10,520
properly under the tap.
290
00:17:10,520 --> 00:17:12,000
OK, look, Andrew, I mean,
291
00:17:12,000 --> 00:17:15,720
you can see the wings which
are the eatable part.
292
00:17:15,720 --> 00:17:19,520
I'm going to go pretty
straightforward in, like that.
293
00:17:19,520 --> 00:17:20,680
We're going to go round it.
294
00:17:22,040 --> 00:17:24,320
As you cut you can feel the blade
295
00:17:24,320 --> 00:17:28,200
hitting the bones, so just follow it
the length of the fish.
296
00:17:28,200 --> 00:17:29,240
Eugh...
297
00:17:30,600 --> 00:17:34,160
You also have to remove the guts,
head and tail,
298
00:17:34,160 --> 00:17:38,800
until you're left with just two
beautiful wings.
299
00:17:38,800 --> 00:17:40,440
OK, so now...
300
00:17:40,440 --> 00:17:43,360
Now they really do look like angel
wings, don't they?
301
00:17:43,360 --> 00:17:45,600
Now, this is the most important bit,
OK.
302
00:17:45,600 --> 00:17:50,320
The trickiest job is to remove the
skin from the wings of the skate.
303
00:17:50,320 --> 00:17:55,200
Of course, that's from
the electricity department.
304
00:17:55,200 --> 00:17:59,560
Very good. You'd be a really good
executioner or torturer, I think.
305
00:17:59,560 --> 00:18:00,800
You've got all the skills.
306
00:18:02,720 --> 00:18:05,360
If you carry on like that, chatting,
307
00:18:05,360 --> 00:18:09,680
I'll definitely execute you
before the end.
308
00:18:09,680 --> 00:18:11,000
So here they are.
309
00:18:11,000 --> 00:18:14,520
Usually when you go to the market
this is what you get.
310
00:18:14,520 --> 00:18:16,720
But you're going to use
everything from that,
311
00:18:16,720 --> 00:18:18,560
you're not just going to
use the wing,
312
00:18:18,560 --> 00:18:21,320
you're going to use all the bones
and everything, to make a stock?
313
00:18:21,320 --> 00:18:24,040
That's what I want to make,
a beautiful stock, with that. OK.
314
00:18:24,040 --> 00:18:26,400
So...I got my pan.
315
00:18:27,480 --> 00:18:30,560
I make the fish stock
with carrot, celery,
316
00:18:30,560 --> 00:18:32,920
onions and a couple of bay leaves.
317
00:18:32,920 --> 00:18:35,560
That's what they used to put on
Julius Caesar's head, isn't it?
318
00:18:35,560 --> 00:18:37,040
That's right.
319
00:18:37,040 --> 00:18:39,480
Bit of peppercorns.
320
00:18:39,480 --> 00:18:42,360
And finally, a couple
of juniper cloves.
321
00:18:42,360 --> 00:18:43,720
Interesting. A couple of them,
322
00:18:43,720 --> 00:18:46,200
just to give them a little bit
to sustain the flavour.
323
00:18:46,200 --> 00:18:47,520
Interesting. OK.
324
00:18:52,400 --> 00:18:56,360
Next, I put the fish bones
in with the vegetables,
325
00:18:56,360 --> 00:18:58,600
as well as the two wings.
326
00:18:58,600 --> 00:19:00,560
So we put them in, both of them.
327
00:19:00,560 --> 00:19:01,840
Oh, you put the wings in too.
328
00:19:01,840 --> 00:19:03,400
That's right. Cold water.
329
00:19:04,560 --> 00:19:08,080
The last thing that goes in there
is a little splash of wine.
330
00:19:09,680 --> 00:19:11,000
OK. The idea is this...
331
00:19:11,000 --> 00:19:13,760
I'm going to put that on
a very tiny fire.
332
00:19:13,760 --> 00:19:16,960
Yeah. And I want it to go fast.
333
00:19:16,960 --> 00:19:19,520
You must remember one thing,
that fish bones
334
00:19:19,520 --> 00:19:22,600
release all their flavours
in about 20 minutes.
335
00:19:22,600 --> 00:19:27,560
So then, if you want to make it
strong you have to reduce it.
336
00:19:27,560 --> 00:19:29,680
It's all about, like, very
337
00:19:29,680 --> 00:19:33,600
intelligently stealing the flavour
out of these things, yeah.
338
00:19:33,600 --> 00:19:35,840
You quite often talk
about persuading.
339
00:19:35,840 --> 00:19:40,680
Persuading the food
to cooperate with you.
340
00:19:40,680 --> 00:19:42,280
You have to make it fall in love
341
00:19:42,280 --> 00:19:44,400
with you and you fall in love
with it and
342
00:19:44,400 --> 00:19:47,240
then you make a beautiful thing
now together.
343
00:19:50,520 --> 00:19:52,440
As the stock is heating up, it's
344
00:19:52,440 --> 00:19:55,040
important to skim off
any floating froth,
345
00:19:55,040 --> 00:19:57,240
to make sure that it's clear
when cooked.
346
00:19:59,720 --> 00:20:04,560
After 15 minutes, we can take the
skate wings out and let them rest.
347
00:20:04,560 --> 00:20:05,920
Oh!
348
00:20:05,920 --> 00:20:07,200
I lost a little bit.
349
00:20:07,200 --> 00:20:09,160
So, I'm going to let that cook.
350
00:20:09,160 --> 00:20:10,320
And hold on...
351
00:20:10,320 --> 00:20:12,120
I'm going to show you now
what I'm doing.
352
00:20:13,800 --> 00:20:15,440
OK.
353
00:20:15,440 --> 00:20:18,640
We're going to prepare the broccoli.
Oh, I love these. Yeah?
354
00:20:18,640 --> 00:20:19,800
Such a beautiful thing.
355
00:20:19,800 --> 00:20:22,560
Now, I'm going to cut them
into really
356
00:20:22,560 --> 00:20:24,480
lovely sort of floret
357
00:20:24,480 --> 00:20:26,560
as they call it in English, no?
358
00:20:26,560 --> 00:20:29,720
And some of these will become
a little bit more overcooked
359
00:20:29,720 --> 00:20:31,400
and melt away in the sauce.
360
00:20:31,400 --> 00:20:33,320
Some of this will be really nice and
361
00:20:33,320 --> 00:20:35,240
give you a little crunch, you know.
362
00:20:36,400 --> 00:20:39,560
Next, I start preparing
the base for the soup.
363
00:20:39,560 --> 00:20:40,840
Bit of olive oil...
364
00:20:40,840 --> 00:20:44,840
Onions, celery, carrots, garlic,
the Romanesco broccoli,
365
00:20:44,840 --> 00:20:47,080
and the anchovies. Oo-ooh!
366
00:20:47,080 --> 00:20:48,480
And I put it there.
367
00:20:49,560 --> 00:20:51,640
OK. I'm going to let
368
00:20:51,640 --> 00:20:54,240
those melt away...
369
00:20:55,280 --> 00:20:57,680
..with it, eh. Mmm, good smell.
370
00:20:59,920 --> 00:21:01,680
Vino, in it.
371
00:21:01,680 --> 00:21:03,400
SIZZLING
372
00:21:03,400 --> 00:21:05,320
You hear that..?
HE IMITATES SIZZLING
373
00:21:05,320 --> 00:21:08,440
That's what I want.
374
00:21:08,440 --> 00:21:10,120
A few pieces of tomato.
375
00:21:10,120 --> 00:21:14,480
And to give it an absolutely
amazing colour, tomato paste.
376
00:21:23,280 --> 00:21:25,080
This is my stock.
377
00:21:26,720 --> 00:21:30,680
We're going to put some
of the stock on that.
378
00:21:30,680 --> 00:21:33,840
I'm going to let it cook
for at least...
379
00:21:35,040 --> 00:21:36,360
..ten minutes.
380
00:21:37,680 --> 00:21:40,160
Time to finish the dish by adding
a short type of pasta
381
00:21:40,160 --> 00:21:41,440
that's perfect for soups.
382
00:21:43,400 --> 00:21:44,600
Don't forget to stir it.
383
00:21:44,600 --> 00:21:46,520
You don't want the pasta
to stick at the bottom.
384
00:21:49,440 --> 00:21:51,600
Oh, so that's the finishing touch.
385
00:21:51,600 --> 00:21:53,040
Oo-oo-ooh!
386
00:21:55,240 --> 00:21:57,320
What a lovely idea for a dish.
387
00:21:59,600 --> 00:22:01,320
OK, you can prepare the table now.
388
00:22:01,320 --> 00:22:02,960
Because we're nearly there, eh.
389
00:22:05,680 --> 00:22:07,560
Come, Andrew. Woh-oh...
390
00:22:11,880 --> 00:22:14,200
Oh, the smell is fantastic.
391
00:22:19,600 --> 00:22:23,520
Giorgio, that is fantastic.
392
00:22:23,520 --> 00:22:25,320
This is Rome.
393
00:22:25,320 --> 00:22:27,600
Intenso, it's intense.
394
00:22:27,600 --> 00:22:30,840
Also, the broccolo adds this
really nice flavour
395
00:22:30,840 --> 00:22:32,560
and it adds a little bit of
396
00:22:32,560 --> 00:22:34,640
bitterness to that. Yep.
397
00:22:34,640 --> 00:22:38,680
If you came to Rome and you were
a pilgrim, not so much money,
398
00:22:38,680 --> 00:22:40,200
you might end up eating this.
399
00:22:40,200 --> 00:22:43,000
Definitely. That was the staple.
400
00:22:43,000 --> 00:22:44,280
Really? Absolutely.
401
00:22:44,280 --> 00:22:45,440
If you go back in time...
402
00:22:45,440 --> 00:22:46,480
That's it.
403
00:22:47,840 --> 00:22:51,040
The ideal dish for a tired pilgrim.
404
00:22:51,040 --> 00:22:54,040
Perfected, no wonder, here in Rome.
405
00:23:00,960 --> 00:23:03,080
Following the counterreformation,
406
00:23:03,080 --> 00:23:05,160
the Catholic Church did its utmost
407
00:23:05,160 --> 00:23:07,600
to restore Rome's
spiritual authority...
408
00:23:08,720 --> 00:23:10,720
..raising the great dome
of St Peter's...
409
00:23:14,120 --> 00:23:18,000
..and building a multitude of other
churches as beacons to the faithful.
410
00:23:19,000 --> 00:23:22,400
Thousands of ragged pilgrims
in search of redemption
411
00:23:22,400 --> 00:23:27,240
flooded the city, making Rome
a city of stark contrasts.
412
00:23:27,240 --> 00:23:28,400
Rich architecture...
413
00:23:30,480 --> 00:23:33,720
..alongside desperately poor people,
living on the streets...
414
00:23:36,040 --> 00:23:39,080
..and nobody captured that better
than the painter Caravaggio.
415
00:23:42,080 --> 00:23:44,760
I want to show Giorgio two of
my favourite paintings...
416
00:23:46,680 --> 00:23:52,320
..breathtaking works that would give
the travellers hope and consolation.
417
00:23:52,320 --> 00:23:56,520
So, Giorgio, this is the burial
chapel of Tiberio Cerasi.
418
00:23:56,520 --> 00:24:00,920
He was the principal banker to
the Pope, had a lot of money,
419
00:24:00,920 --> 00:24:02,240
but he knew he was dying,
420
00:24:02,240 --> 00:24:05,760
and so he commissioned
the paintings in this chapel,
421
00:24:05,760 --> 00:24:08,800
two of them are by Caravaggio.
422
00:24:08,800 --> 00:24:10,920
This one...
423
00:24:10,920 --> 00:24:13,000
..shows St Peter.
424
00:24:13,000 --> 00:24:15,880
And immediately you are face-to-face
425
00:24:15,880 --> 00:24:18,760
with Caravaggio's great revolution,
426
00:24:18,760 --> 00:24:23,400
like Fellini so many years later,
to cast the people from the street,
427
00:24:23,400 --> 00:24:27,160
from the streets of Rome,
and to put them in his paintings.
428
00:24:27,160 --> 00:24:29,680
And he's doing that here,
with this terrible scene,
429
00:24:29,680 --> 00:24:31,760
the crucifixion of St Peter.
430
00:24:31,760 --> 00:24:35,960
It's almost as if he might have used
as his model that poor man,
431
00:24:35,960 --> 00:24:38,200
that beggar that we saw on the steps
432
00:24:38,200 --> 00:24:40,680
of the other church
around the corner.
433
00:24:40,680 --> 00:24:44,680
And in his own time these paintings
were really shocking.
434
00:24:44,680 --> 00:24:46,240
Oh, it's shocking now
435
00:24:46,240 --> 00:24:48,000
with the imagery that we
are used to
436
00:24:48,000 --> 00:24:50,560
but it's still quite powerful,
this one, you know.
437
00:24:50,560 --> 00:24:54,800
And that dirty feet
it just says so much.
438
00:24:54,800 --> 00:24:57,400
Because Italian painting at that
moment, before Caravaggio,
439
00:24:57,400 --> 00:24:59,040
was very artificial, very mannered,
440
00:24:59,040 --> 00:25:00,640
very contrived,
441
00:25:00,640 --> 00:25:03,120
very little smell of reality in it,
442
00:25:03,120 --> 00:25:07,120
and suddenly with Caravaggio
you've got Peter's sunburnt face,
443
00:25:07,120 --> 00:25:09,800
his scrawny torso,
444
00:25:09,800 --> 00:25:12,000
his agonised expression,
445
00:25:12,000 --> 00:25:14,840
and Caravaggio's painting it almost
446
00:25:14,840 --> 00:25:18,280
as a grisly scene of
hydraulic engineering.
447
00:25:18,280 --> 00:25:19,520
Man driven.
448
00:25:19,520 --> 00:25:22,520
You're going to lift him up,
put him on the cross.
449
00:25:23,680 --> 00:25:26,080
But I think also Caravaggio's
giving hope.
450
00:25:26,080 --> 00:25:28,360
Because this church
is the first church
451
00:25:28,360 --> 00:25:30,680
that you'd come to
when you enter Rome
452
00:25:30,680 --> 00:25:33,720
because that, outside,
was once the gate to Rome.
453
00:25:33,720 --> 00:25:36,080
Now there's a road outside,
but in the past it was fields.
454
00:25:37,200 --> 00:25:40,320
You had dirty feet, you identify
yourself with them.
455
00:25:40,320 --> 00:25:42,320
Exactly. Yeah.
456
00:25:42,320 --> 00:25:47,400
Cerasi, whose mortuary chapel
this is, he was clever.
457
00:25:47,400 --> 00:25:51,520
Not only did he commission
Caravaggio to decorate the chapel,
458
00:25:51,520 --> 00:25:56,000
but he also got the leading
other painter of Rome at the time,
459
00:25:56,000 --> 00:25:58,000
Annibale Carracci,
460
00:25:58,000 --> 00:26:01,960
to paint the main altarpiece.
461
00:26:01,960 --> 00:26:03,840
Below you've got the Apostles
462
00:26:03,840 --> 00:26:07,200
and it shows the moment
when the Madonna's soul
463
00:26:07,200 --> 00:26:08,960
is assumed into heaven.
464
00:26:08,960 --> 00:26:11,760
Up she rises into the skies.
465
00:26:14,400 --> 00:26:17,200
This is really the dawn
of the baroque style.
466
00:26:18,440 --> 00:26:22,240
And what the baroque style
exists to do is to make us,
467
00:26:22,240 --> 00:26:26,440
the worshippers coming to church,
feel a little bit smaller,
468
00:26:26,440 --> 00:26:28,840
a little bit on our knees,
469
00:26:28,840 --> 00:26:31,400
a little bit "Oh!", in awe.
470
00:26:31,400 --> 00:26:33,480
This is a painting that says, "Yes,
471
00:26:33,480 --> 00:26:37,320
"you can come here to worship
but remember your place."
472
00:26:37,320 --> 00:26:40,600
And what's interesting is that
the Carracci painting,
473
00:26:40,600 --> 00:26:46,360
that was installed before Caravaggio
painted his second picture.
474
00:26:46,360 --> 00:26:47,720
And what did he do?
475
00:26:48,680 --> 00:26:51,480
It's this enormous horse.
476
00:26:51,480 --> 00:26:54,920
And he puts the horse's arse
in the face...
477
00:26:56,880 --> 00:26:58,680
..of the Virgin of Carracci.
478
00:26:58,680 --> 00:27:00,640
As if to say,
479
00:27:00,640 --> 00:27:02,720
"This is what I think...
480
00:27:02,720 --> 00:27:06,080
"..of your elevated Christianity."
481
00:27:06,080 --> 00:27:07,560
I like this Caravaggio guy.
482
00:27:09,080 --> 00:27:11,280
He's quite cool. He really is.
483
00:27:11,280 --> 00:27:12,840
He's cool, man.
484
00:27:12,840 --> 00:27:17,640
This is St Paul or Saul as he was,
485
00:27:17,640 --> 00:27:19,880
at the moment of his conversion.
486
00:27:19,880 --> 00:27:21,800
That's the subject of the painting.
487
00:27:21,800 --> 00:27:24,080
This is the moment
on the road to Damascus
488
00:27:24,080 --> 00:27:26,280
when he becomes a Christian.
489
00:27:27,320 --> 00:27:29,280
Boom, you can hear it.
490
00:27:29,280 --> 00:27:30,640
I never fell off the horse.
491
00:27:30,640 --> 00:27:32,880
I fell off a few motorbikes.
492
00:27:32,880 --> 00:27:34,080
I never fell off the horse.
493
00:27:34,080 --> 00:27:36,040
But I can, you know, kind of like,
494
00:27:36,040 --> 00:27:39,760
you can see he's been struck and
he's almost underneath the horse.
495
00:27:39,760 --> 00:27:43,120
Caravaggio means the horse
and the groom...
496
00:27:43,120 --> 00:27:44,760
..who looks a bit like Joseph,
497
00:27:44,760 --> 00:27:47,080
I think to evoke the idea
of the Nativity.
498
00:27:47,080 --> 00:27:48,560
So you do a kind of double take
499
00:27:48,560 --> 00:27:50,960
cos you look down from them
and you expect to see
500
00:27:50,960 --> 00:27:52,480
the baby Jesus by the manger.
501
00:27:52,480 --> 00:27:54,360
But, no, you see Paul.
502
00:27:54,360 --> 00:27:56,480
But then, after you've done
the double take,
503
00:27:56,480 --> 00:27:58,360
I think that's when
the meaning unfolds.
504
00:27:58,360 --> 00:28:01,200
Because, yes, at this moment
of his conversion,
505
00:28:01,200 --> 00:28:04,400
Paul is like the little baby Jesus
in the manger.
506
00:28:04,400 --> 00:28:08,040
He's lying helpless on the ground.
507
00:28:08,040 --> 00:28:11,320
And then Caravaggio,
with a stroke of genius, I think,
508
00:28:11,320 --> 00:28:14,160
has Paul stretch out his arms,
509
00:28:14,160 --> 00:28:19,400
so in the same moment he's also
Christ on the cross.
510
00:28:19,400 --> 00:28:21,000
So light floods him.
511
00:28:21,000 --> 00:28:23,000
He is spiritually enlightened.
512
00:28:23,000 --> 00:28:27,920
It's one of the most amazing
pictures in the world.
513
00:28:27,920 --> 00:28:32,480
I think this is one of the best
painting I ever seen in my life.
514
00:28:32,480 --> 00:28:34,080
He's a communicator...
515
00:28:35,160 --> 00:28:37,720
..to the people like me.
516
00:28:37,720 --> 00:28:39,800
And that is something that I would
517
00:28:39,800 --> 00:28:42,240
now come to the church
to have a look at that.
518
00:28:43,560 --> 00:28:46,480
So, you vote for Caravaggio?
519
00:28:46,480 --> 00:28:48,200
Due a zero.
520
00:28:51,640 --> 00:28:53,520
For centuries after his death,
521
00:28:53,520 --> 00:28:57,600
Caravaggio was sneered at
as a crude and vulgar artist.
522
00:29:01,320 --> 00:29:03,440
He was rediscovered partly by
523
00:29:03,440 --> 00:29:06,560
Italian film-makers,
including Fellini,
524
00:29:06,560 --> 00:29:09,160
who loved his cinematic use of light
525
00:29:09,160 --> 00:29:11,920
as well as the way
he used real people.
526
00:29:14,480 --> 00:29:15,840
And since the mid-20th century,
527
00:29:15,840 --> 00:29:18,840
Caravaggio's reputation
has been on the rise.
528
00:29:18,840 --> 00:29:22,000
He's now one of the world's
best-loved painters.
529
00:29:29,760 --> 00:29:31,960
Oh! Oh!
530
00:29:31,960 --> 00:29:33,200
Va bene...
531
00:29:34,280 --> 00:29:36,760
This is the old Roman Way.
532
00:29:36,760 --> 00:29:39,640
Oh, man! Julius Caesar used to come
down this road, man.
533
00:29:39,640 --> 00:29:41,720
Got to be excited about it.
534
00:29:44,720 --> 00:29:47,360
Rome is the political
centre of Italy.
535
00:29:47,360 --> 00:29:51,440
Nowhere else will you find so many
politician and bureaucrats...
536
00:29:51,440 --> 00:29:53,680
..or so many limousines
stuck in traffic.
537
00:29:55,440 --> 00:29:59,280
Ordinary Romans are used to rubbing
shoulders with those in power
538
00:29:59,280 --> 00:30:02,280
and they are prepared
to put up a fight.
539
00:30:02,280 --> 00:30:04,520
GIORGIO SCREAMS
540
00:30:06,840 --> 00:30:08,200
Let's go and have a coffee.
541
00:30:10,520 --> 00:30:13,000
Romans love nothing more than
discussing politics
542
00:30:13,000 --> 00:30:15,880
from their first
espresso of the day.
543
00:30:15,880 --> 00:30:18,160
To be the mayor of this town,
544
00:30:18,160 --> 00:30:20,400
I think is the hardest job.
545
00:30:20,400 --> 00:30:24,360
Whatever you do, you'll always have
someone who says the contrary.
546
00:30:24,360 --> 00:30:26,600
How many bureaucrats
are there in Rome?
547
00:30:26,600 --> 00:30:27,760
Well, that's the thing.
548
00:30:27,760 --> 00:30:30,080
Quanti burocrati a Roma?
549
00:30:30,080 --> 00:30:31,120
Troppi. Troppi!
550
00:30:32,200 --> 00:30:34,120
Too many, too many.
551
00:30:36,000 --> 00:30:37,600
But, at the end of the day,
552
00:30:37,600 --> 00:30:40,400
Rome would be always Rome
because of the people of Rome.
553
00:30:40,400 --> 00:30:42,520
Yeah. You can put
as many laws as they want,
554
00:30:42,520 --> 00:30:44,520
but they will do whatever they want,
555
00:30:44,520 --> 00:30:47,400
because they've been doing that
for the eternal time.
556
00:30:47,400 --> 00:30:49,480
That's why they've been here
for such a long time,
557
00:30:49,480 --> 00:30:51,200
because that's what they do.
558
00:30:51,200 --> 00:30:52,560
They do what they want.
559
00:30:52,560 --> 00:30:54,360
I read in the paper that the
560
00:30:54,360 --> 00:30:57,760
highest-paid head of
traffic wardens in the world
561
00:30:57,760 --> 00:31:00,280
is the head of the
traffic wardens of Rome.
562
00:31:00,280 --> 00:31:02,720
He gets paid more than the
President of the United States!
563
00:31:02,720 --> 00:31:05,200
Yeah, exactly, he gets paid,
like, half a million pounds.
564
00:31:05,200 --> 00:31:07,960
And, still, everybody parks
where they like.
565
00:31:10,840 --> 00:31:12,800
Everybody do what they want.
566
00:31:12,800 --> 00:31:14,960
I want to take Giorgio
to see a monument
567
00:31:14,960 --> 00:31:17,480
that hails the moment
when Rome first became
568
00:31:17,480 --> 00:31:19,800
the centre of
modern Italian politics.
569
00:31:23,000 --> 00:31:25,000
At the end of the 19th century Italy
570
00:31:25,000 --> 00:31:27,080
was still divided into many states,
571
00:31:27,080 --> 00:31:28,320
under different rulers.
572
00:31:29,760 --> 00:31:35,040
But in 1861 the Savoy family, under
their king, Vittorio Emanuele,
573
00:31:35,040 --> 00:31:40,040
had placed their stamp on the
unification of the country.
574
00:31:40,040 --> 00:31:43,320
And ten years later declared
Rome its capital.
575
00:31:44,360 --> 00:31:46,520
For the Roman people, it also meant
576
00:31:46,520 --> 00:31:49,400
the end of over a thousand years
of papal rule.
577
00:31:49,400 --> 00:31:51,640
So to celebrate this moment,
578
00:31:51,640 --> 00:31:54,200
and the crowning of Italy's
first king...
579
00:31:57,240 --> 00:31:59,400
..the Vittoriano was erected,
580
00:31:59,400 --> 00:32:01,320
right in the centre of Rome,
581
00:32:01,320 --> 00:32:03,160
next to the Imperial Forum.
582
00:32:04,200 --> 00:32:06,040
What a great beauty.
583
00:32:06,040 --> 00:32:08,200
Which one? I like these bits.
584
00:32:08,200 --> 00:32:09,880
I'm not so sure about...
585
00:32:09,880 --> 00:32:11,160
That big one, over there.
586
00:32:12,400 --> 00:32:15,880
When you see it in the context
of real Roman ruins,
587
00:32:15,880 --> 00:32:17,960
I think you get a sense of how...
588
00:32:17,960 --> 00:32:20,440
..just crazily enormous,
589
00:32:20,440 --> 00:32:22,720
how glaringly white,
590
00:32:22,720 --> 00:32:25,800
how astonishingly pompous,
591
00:32:25,800 --> 00:32:28,760
is the monument to
Vittorio Emanuele.
592
00:32:28,760 --> 00:32:31,400
I mean, this is
Vittorio Emanuele coming to Rome,
593
00:32:31,400 --> 00:32:35,680
saying,
"Italy, one Italy, under me".
594
00:32:35,680 --> 00:32:37,840
And he's basically
595
00:32:37,840 --> 00:32:42,400
trying to replace Marco Aurelio,
Marcus Aurelius, who's in the back,
596
00:32:42,400 --> 00:32:44,520
obscured almost,
from the view of the Romans,
597
00:32:44,520 --> 00:32:46,840
by this great white elephant.
598
00:32:46,840 --> 00:32:50,360
With him on his horse, he's saying,
"I'm the new emperor."
599
00:32:50,360 --> 00:32:53,120
Yeah. It's the size of a mountain.
600
00:32:53,120 --> 00:32:58,400
I mean, I think it's 70 metres high,
more than 100 metres across.
601
00:32:58,400 --> 00:33:01,360
It was inaugurated, I think, in 1912
602
00:33:01,360 --> 00:33:03,800
and finished 13 years later,
603
00:33:03,800 --> 00:33:08,800
the greatest job creation scheme in
the history of Italian sculpture.
604
00:33:08,800 --> 00:33:10,240
The Roman never liked...
605
00:33:10,240 --> 00:33:12,040
You know what they call this?
606
00:33:12,040 --> 00:33:14,800
They call it the typewriter.
The typewriter? Yes.
607
00:33:14,800 --> 00:33:16,400
It looks like a typewriter.
608
00:33:16,400 --> 00:33:18,280
You know, one of the old ones,
that you just...
609
00:33:18,280 --> 00:33:21,080
Swings along. I think that's
the whole problem, though,
610
00:33:21,080 --> 00:33:23,920
is that the language that's being
typed out on the typewriter is not
611
00:33:23,920 --> 00:33:26,240
really Roman, not Italian.
612
00:33:26,240 --> 00:33:29,000
This is the classicism of Germany.
613
00:33:29,000 --> 00:33:31,280
I mean, it could almost be
made of ice.
614
00:33:31,280 --> 00:33:35,120
It's glaring, its white, it's
enormous, it's like the Valhalla.
615
00:33:35,120 --> 00:33:36,760
This is Wagner, not Verdi.
616
00:33:36,760 --> 00:33:40,920
Yeah. The whiteness really puts it
at odds with everything else.
617
00:33:40,920 --> 00:33:42,920
Because, I don't know, like,
look at those tree,
618
00:33:42,920 --> 00:33:45,080
looks in harmony with
the church and things.
619
00:33:45,080 --> 00:33:48,520
You kind of like, the shapes,
they're all working, these columns,
620
00:33:48,520 --> 00:33:51,960
and suddenly it's like an eyesore,
isn't it?
621
00:33:51,960 --> 00:33:55,120
Think about the Capitoline Hill
is just behind that.
622
00:33:55,120 --> 00:33:59,000
So in order to build this,
what did they build it on top?
623
00:33:59,000 --> 00:34:00,680
Surely there must be something.
624
00:34:00,680 --> 00:34:03,360
Yeah. No, no, they did,
they knocked down some temples,
625
00:34:03,360 --> 00:34:05,920
they covered up a piece of
ancient Roman history
626
00:34:05,920 --> 00:34:08,280
to create the modern monument.
627
00:34:08,280 --> 00:34:12,200
I mean, this is absolutely
in the centre of the city.
628
00:34:12,200 --> 00:34:15,400
And I think that's again part of
the problem the people here
629
00:34:15,400 --> 00:34:16,720
have had accepting it -
630
00:34:16,720 --> 00:34:20,560
they know that this has abolished
part of their own history.
631
00:34:20,560 --> 00:34:22,440
And so there he is on his horse,
632
00:34:22,440 --> 00:34:24,000
the new Marcus Aurelius,
633
00:34:24,000 --> 00:34:25,440
Vittorio Emanuele II,
634
00:34:25,440 --> 00:34:26,880
and he's saying,
635
00:34:26,880 --> 00:34:29,640
"Friends, Romans, countrymen,
636
00:34:29,640 --> 00:34:31,120
"lend me your ears", but I think
637
00:34:31,120 --> 00:34:33,320
they never really did
lend them their ears.
638
00:34:34,960 --> 00:34:37,160
I really don't like the typewriter.
639
00:34:37,160 --> 00:34:40,360
But the Savoy family rule
wasn't all bad news for Rome.
640
00:34:43,600 --> 00:34:48,160
In fact, one of my favourite
districts was created under them.
641
00:34:48,160 --> 00:34:50,920
A place made for the people.
642
00:34:50,920 --> 00:34:53,080
And I really want to show it
to Andrew.
643
00:34:54,600 --> 00:34:56,840
At the beginning of
the 20th century,
644
00:34:56,840 --> 00:34:58,640
from being a sleepy village,
645
00:34:58,640 --> 00:35:02,600
Rome rapidly became
a frenetic European capital.
646
00:35:03,880 --> 00:35:05,960
The Savoy family started building
647
00:35:05,960 --> 00:35:08,280
social housing for workers
such as the Garbatella.
648
00:35:10,160 --> 00:35:12,440
Once at the very edges of the city,
649
00:35:12,440 --> 00:35:14,360
and now right in the centre,
650
00:35:14,360 --> 00:35:16,720
only ten minutes by scooter
from the Coliseum.
651
00:35:19,360 --> 00:35:21,440
Here we are, in Garbatella, man.
652
00:35:23,040 --> 00:35:24,400
Where are we going, up the steps?
653
00:35:24,400 --> 00:35:25,440
Yeah, let's go up there.
654
00:35:27,200 --> 00:35:28,640
Come and have a look at this.
655
00:35:28,640 --> 00:35:34,360
Garbatella, garbato,
means to be kind, you know.
656
00:35:34,360 --> 00:35:36,520
So this is a place where
you're welcome.
657
00:35:36,520 --> 00:35:39,720
And look, we are in
the centre of town.
658
00:35:39,720 --> 00:35:41,240
This is not the Rome that I know.
659
00:35:41,240 --> 00:35:43,240
I mean, this is so peaceful.
660
00:35:43,240 --> 00:35:47,080
Where are the guys on motor
scooters, zipping past you?
661
00:35:48,320 --> 00:35:51,640
Absolutely. But look,
the architecture is incredible.
662
00:35:51,640 --> 00:35:54,880
Look at this place.
But this is the 1920s.
663
00:35:54,880 --> 00:35:59,080
When I see a house like that, I
mean, my association is to think,
664
00:35:59,080 --> 00:36:01,520
"Suddenly I am actually
in the countryside in Italy."
665
00:36:01,520 --> 00:36:04,480
Yeah, little patch where you can
grow his little basil
666
00:36:04,480 --> 00:36:07,480
and his little potato or tomato.
667
00:36:07,480 --> 00:36:09,960
But what I love about it is
that it is so Italian.
668
00:36:09,960 --> 00:36:13,120
It's a little bit chaotic,
a little bit unkempt,
669
00:36:13,120 --> 00:36:14,360
but in a very beautiful way.
670
00:36:14,360 --> 00:36:17,760
Like, look where they've got the two
pipes presumably were there one time
671
00:36:17,760 --> 00:36:19,840
but they haven't bothered
to paint it back.
672
00:36:19,840 --> 00:36:21,480
There's the plaster
round the window.
673
00:36:21,480 --> 00:36:23,480
This is charm.
It's charming, it's lovely.
674
00:36:23,480 --> 00:36:25,120
It's really like a little paradise.
675
00:36:25,120 --> 00:36:27,640
From the people
I've seen living here,
676
00:36:27,640 --> 00:36:30,120
quite a lot of them are
getting on a bit now.
677
00:36:30,120 --> 00:36:32,440
It's as if they are part
of the original community.
678
00:36:32,440 --> 00:36:34,480
People in their 60s,
people in their 70s...
679
00:36:34,480 --> 00:36:35,840
You want to live with the people
680
00:36:35,840 --> 00:36:38,480
that you love and you want to die
with the people that you love.
681
00:36:38,480 --> 00:36:40,440
Surrounded by it,
the sense of community,
682
00:36:40,440 --> 00:36:42,080
makes you feel like a human.
683
00:36:52,600 --> 00:36:55,640
Buongiorno. Buongiorno.
684
00:36:55,640 --> 00:36:58,000
Qual'e il nomo del tuo cane? Pepe.
685
00:36:58,000 --> 00:37:00,600
Pepe! Buongiorno, Pepe.
Cacio e pepe.
686
00:37:00,600 --> 00:37:02,520
Perfect.
687
00:37:02,520 --> 00:37:05,520
Salve. Buongiorno.
688
00:37:08,600 --> 00:37:10,720
In designing the Garbatella,
689
00:37:10,720 --> 00:37:14,920
Rome's urban planners were greatly
influenced by the English trend
690
00:37:14,920 --> 00:37:18,680
known as the garden city movement
of the early 20th century.
691
00:37:18,680 --> 00:37:20,560
So in a way,
692
00:37:20,560 --> 00:37:22,080
this is a Roman version of
693
00:37:22,080 --> 00:37:24,280
Hampstead Garden Suburb in London.
694
00:37:27,320 --> 00:37:30,560
But the character of this village
on the edge of the city
695
00:37:30,560 --> 00:37:32,240
will change in the 1920s...
696
00:37:33,320 --> 00:37:35,040
..when the fascists came to power.
697
00:37:39,840 --> 00:37:42,480
Fascism and its drive
for modernisation
698
00:37:42,480 --> 00:37:44,240
took an iron grip of Italy,
699
00:37:44,240 --> 00:37:45,520
and most of all, Rome.
700
00:37:47,960 --> 00:37:51,240
Thousands more workers from the
countryside flooded into the city.
701
00:37:54,680 --> 00:37:57,520
And to house them,
a new generation of architects
702
00:37:57,520 --> 00:38:01,840
came up with grander designs and
bigger buildings for Garbatella.
703
00:38:06,000 --> 00:38:09,640
You see, Andrew, just round
the corner it changes completely.
704
00:38:09,640 --> 00:38:12,120
Wow. And they're just so grand.
705
00:38:12,120 --> 00:38:14,480
They are. They're like palaces.
706
00:38:14,480 --> 00:38:17,440
This style is called baroquetto.
707
00:38:17,440 --> 00:38:19,080
Baroquetto.
708
00:38:19,080 --> 00:38:21,040
That's right.
Which means little Baroque.
709
00:38:21,040 --> 00:38:23,280
Yeah, baby Baroque.
Baby Baroque.
710
00:38:23,280 --> 00:38:26,320
It's fantastic cos it is!
That's like a Baroque palace.
711
00:38:26,320 --> 00:38:30,320
Except you see these heads normally
on an aristocratic palace.
712
00:38:30,320 --> 00:38:33,160
That's right. But here, the heads
713
00:38:33,160 --> 00:38:36,400
are on the side of
a council flat block,
714
00:38:36,400 --> 00:38:40,080
and they're the heads of people
from the 1920s, or maybe the 1930s.
715
00:38:40,080 --> 00:38:41,760
Look at her little bob hairstyle.
716
00:38:41,760 --> 00:38:44,520
Unbelievable, isn't it?
It's fantastic.
717
00:38:44,520 --> 00:38:48,360
Look, there's something like a
gargoyle on the front of the house.
718
00:38:49,360 --> 00:38:50,520
It's not just building.
719
00:38:50,520 --> 00:38:53,920
I can imagine things happening
behind those closed windows,
720
00:38:53,920 --> 00:38:56,400
all those little houses
with all these little kitchens
721
00:38:56,400 --> 00:38:59,360
and a lot of this lovely food
that comes from the countryside,
722
00:38:59,360 --> 00:39:00,520
from the connections.
723
00:39:00,520 --> 00:39:02,720
And they have...
The market is very alive.
724
00:39:02,720 --> 00:39:05,000
This is the spirits of Rome,
725
00:39:05,000 --> 00:39:07,120
is within these people.
726
00:39:07,120 --> 00:39:09,480
Yeah. You know, everything comes
and goes in this city,
727
00:39:09,480 --> 00:39:10,680
everything gets buried,
728
00:39:10,680 --> 00:39:12,520
it's just the people
who stays on top.
729
00:39:16,480 --> 00:39:18,600
It's unusual,
pretty amazing, really,
730
00:39:18,600 --> 00:39:21,000
to see a fully working community,
731
00:39:21,000 --> 00:39:25,080
almost like a village, right in the
middle of the 21st-century city.
732
00:39:30,120 --> 00:39:32,200
Garbatella, bella, Andrew.
733
00:39:32,200 --> 00:39:34,160
If I had to live somewhere in Rome,
734
00:39:34,160 --> 00:39:37,240
I would love to live in Garbatella.
735
00:39:37,240 --> 00:39:39,400
I think it fits my style.
736
00:39:41,760 --> 00:39:45,440
Yeah, I can see you, just in your
vest, like, cooking outside, maybe.
737
00:39:47,960 --> 00:39:49,920
Now we're going back onto
the cobbles.
738
00:39:49,920 --> 00:39:51,360
Uh-uh-uh-uh-uh...
739
00:39:58,840 --> 00:40:02,320
You can feel the ancient power
of the people all over Rome,
740
00:40:02,320 --> 00:40:04,680
even in some unlikely places...
741
00:40:05,960 --> 00:40:08,960
..such as the palaces of
the richest noble families.
742
00:40:10,160 --> 00:40:14,760
Because they knew just how hard it
was to rule in this fickle town,
743
00:40:14,760 --> 00:40:19,000
they built their palazzi-like
fortresses to keep the mob at bay.
744
00:40:20,200 --> 00:40:25,600
And none was more fortress-like than
the stunning Palazzo Farnese.
745
00:40:25,600 --> 00:40:27,960
Palazzo Farnese. What a palace, eh?
746
00:40:27,960 --> 00:40:31,280
It's got 40 windows
just on the front. Amazing.
747
00:40:37,840 --> 00:40:41,000
The Farnese family was one of
the great forces in Rome
748
00:40:41,000 --> 00:40:43,040
from the
15th to the 18th century.
749
00:40:44,760 --> 00:40:47,200
Many military commanders
and cardinals,
750
00:40:47,200 --> 00:40:49,120
two popes and the Queen of Spain
751
00:40:49,120 --> 00:40:51,240
can be found in their family tree.
752
00:40:56,040 --> 00:40:57,960
And thanks to their huge riches,
753
00:40:57,960 --> 00:41:00,800
the family constructed the most
magnificent
754
00:41:00,800 --> 00:41:03,480
high Renaissance dwelling
in all of Rome,
755
00:41:03,480 --> 00:41:06,800
designed by Antonio da Sangallo
the Younger,
756
00:41:06,800 --> 00:41:08,600
and a chap called Michelangelo.
757
00:41:12,440 --> 00:41:15,320
I'm taking Giorgio to see
one particular room
758
00:41:15,320 --> 00:41:19,800
with a truly amazing series
of frescoes by Annibale Carracci...
759
00:41:22,160 --> 00:41:26,760
..the same artist Caravaggio had
mocked with the rear end of a horse.
760
00:41:26,760 --> 00:41:29,400
Here, Carracci was on top form.
761
00:41:30,560 --> 00:41:33,040
Look at this,
the sun has come to greet us.
762
00:41:33,040 --> 00:41:35,320
Now, don't look up,
that's the only rule.
763
00:41:35,320 --> 00:41:37,680
OK. You can look at the garden.
764
00:41:37,680 --> 00:41:39,640
Wow. And we're right in
the middle of the row.
765
00:41:39,640 --> 00:41:41,280
In the middle of the row.
766
00:41:41,280 --> 00:41:43,600
OK, now we're going to do it.
767
00:41:43,600 --> 00:41:45,520
OK? OK.
768
00:41:45,520 --> 00:41:48,960
Uno, due...
769
00:41:48,960 --> 00:41:50,440
Three.
770
00:41:54,600 --> 00:41:56,360
Wow!
771
00:41:57,600 --> 00:41:59,480
Look at that! Look at that.
772
00:42:09,080 --> 00:42:13,720
Started 1597, finished 1608.
773
00:42:13,720 --> 00:42:16,400
11 years in the making.
774
00:42:18,680 --> 00:42:21,440
And the theme of the whole thing...
775
00:42:24,160 --> 00:42:27,560
# ..the power of love
776
00:42:27,560 --> 00:42:30,040
# A force from above. #
777
00:42:31,840 --> 00:42:33,760
Really! That is the subject!
778
00:42:42,960 --> 00:42:45,320
You've got Diana falling in love,
779
00:42:45,320 --> 00:42:47,480
despite her vows of chastity,
780
00:42:47,480 --> 00:42:52,720
falling in love with the shepherd
Endymion, sleeping muscle man.
781
00:42:53,880 --> 00:42:57,240
You've got the abduction of Galatea,
782
00:42:57,240 --> 00:43:01,880
you've got Jupiter and Juno.
783
00:43:01,880 --> 00:43:04,880
We've got Bacchus and Ariadne.
784
00:43:04,880 --> 00:43:10,680
And here he is, in his golden
carriage drawn by tigers...
785
00:43:10,680 --> 00:43:13,880
..with rams, symbols of sex
and lust.
786
00:43:14,880 --> 00:43:16,320
It's almost too much, isn't it?
787
00:43:16,320 --> 00:43:19,840
It really, like, is incredible.
788
00:43:19,840 --> 00:43:24,880
The figure of the lady is so
beautiful, rounded and beautiful.
789
00:43:24,880 --> 00:43:27,800
They're not the model of the modern
supermodel, let's put it that way.
790
00:43:27,800 --> 00:43:29,720
That's for sure.
They're not skin and bones.
791
00:43:29,720 --> 00:43:31,640
But they're much more beautiful.
792
00:43:31,640 --> 00:43:32,960
It's quite a thing.
793
00:43:32,960 --> 00:43:36,200
And it was all commissioned
by a cardinal.
794
00:43:36,200 --> 00:43:37,520
Odoardo Farnese.
795
00:43:37,520 --> 00:43:41,800
Why would a cardinal have
something like that in his house?
796
00:43:41,800 --> 00:43:45,040
Well, actually, in the Renaissance,
they weren't prudish.
797
00:43:45,040 --> 00:43:49,960
There was a tradition
of noble families commissioning,
798
00:43:49,960 --> 00:43:52,560
usually on the occasion
of a marriage,
799
00:43:52,560 --> 00:43:56,080
quite sexy, secular images.
800
00:43:56,080 --> 00:43:58,800
Almost like encouragements
to procreation.
801
00:43:58,800 --> 00:44:01,680
This is a message from the cardinal
to all of his children.
802
00:44:01,680 --> 00:44:03,960
Right. "This is how you do it,
just get on with it."
803
00:44:05,440 --> 00:44:09,400
Isn't it? It sounds a little bit
like that, doesn't it?
804
00:44:09,400 --> 00:44:13,320
Yes, I don't know what that is
in Latin, but...
805
00:44:13,320 --> 00:44:18,880
I think what the room as a whole is
saying is, "That for us as a dynasty
806
00:44:18,880 --> 00:44:21,600
"to uphold our power,
we must breed."
807
00:44:24,360 --> 00:44:26,920
And something really neat,
look at this.
808
00:44:26,920 --> 00:44:28,680
This is thanks to the French,
actually,
809
00:44:28,680 --> 00:44:30,920
who've had this as their
embassy for so long,
810
00:44:30,920 --> 00:44:32,320
they cleaned this room,
811
00:44:32,320 --> 00:44:33,880
and look what they found.
812
00:44:33,880 --> 00:44:36,760
Carracci had actually left
some of his sketches.
813
00:44:36,760 --> 00:44:38,880
So when he was making the ceiling,
814
00:44:38,880 --> 00:44:41,360
he was actually doing these
little sketches.
815
00:44:41,360 --> 00:44:44,360
There's actually quite
a sad postscript
816
00:44:44,360 --> 00:44:47,480
to the story of this
amazing masterpiece.
817
00:44:47,480 --> 00:44:49,480
They cardinal, for
whatever reason...
818
00:44:50,760 --> 00:44:52,600
..was a really mean guy,
819
00:44:52,600 --> 00:44:55,560
so when Carracci finished and
finally asked for his payment...
820
00:44:57,240 --> 00:45:00,440
..the cardinal got his accountant
to do all the sums,
821
00:45:00,440 --> 00:45:04,200
and he said, "Well, "you've been
living in the Palace for 11 years,
822
00:45:04,200 --> 00:45:07,520
"so we're going to charge you
for the board and lodging.
823
00:45:07,520 --> 00:45:10,760
"So, we're going to pay you £100,000
for doing the picture,
824
00:45:10,760 --> 00:45:14,120
"but we're going to deduct £99,500
825
00:45:14,120 --> 00:45:16,680
"because you've been staying
in the Palace." No way.
826
00:45:16,680 --> 00:45:21,640
Really. They paid him 500 scudi
for 11 years' work.
827
00:45:21,640 --> 00:45:26,000
Carracci was so upset, he just falls
into this terrible depression,
828
00:45:26,000 --> 00:45:28,440
and then that's the end of him.
829
00:45:28,440 --> 00:45:30,840
He dies, basically,
of a broken heart...
830
00:45:30,840 --> 00:45:35,080
..for not being paid. Maybe you
should have been his agent, Giorgio.
831
00:45:35,080 --> 00:45:37,040
I could have definitely
been his chef.
832
00:45:38,400 --> 00:45:40,600
The paintings would have been
even better!
833
00:45:44,240 --> 00:45:47,200
Eventually, you could say,
justice was served.
834
00:45:47,200 --> 00:45:49,800
The family extinguished in 1731
835
00:45:49,800 --> 00:45:52,440
when the last duke, Antonio Farnese,
836
00:45:52,440 --> 00:45:55,200
died without direct heirs.
837
00:45:55,200 --> 00:45:58,880
The Palace has been the French
embassy for the last 81 years,
838
00:45:58,880 --> 00:46:02,040
keeping Carracci's masterpiece
a bit of a secret.
839
00:46:02,040 --> 00:46:04,640
But now the doors are open
once a week,
840
00:46:04,640 --> 00:46:07,720
and he is gradually being
rediscovered.
841
00:46:07,720 --> 00:46:12,080
We really have to have some lunch
now, so after the power of love,
842
00:46:12,080 --> 00:46:15,560
I want to remind Andrew of
the power of pasta.
843
00:46:15,560 --> 00:46:18,200
This is one of the classics.
844
00:46:18,200 --> 00:46:20,880
You're going to learn how to
make a carbonara.
845
00:46:20,880 --> 00:46:22,280
A real carbonara, Andrew.
846
00:46:23,320 --> 00:46:24,760
We are heading to Roscioli,
847
00:46:24,760 --> 00:46:27,640
a small restaurant that's been
in the same family
848
00:46:27,640 --> 00:46:29,040
for four generations.
849
00:46:30,440 --> 00:46:33,480
Nabil, the cook, is waiting for us.
850
00:46:33,480 --> 00:46:35,440
This is Nabil. Salve, Nabil.
851
00:46:35,440 --> 00:46:38,720
Nabil cooks the best carbonara
in the world,
852
00:46:38,720 --> 00:46:40,120
I'm telling you.
853
00:46:40,120 --> 00:46:43,480
So, what makes the Roman
carbonara different
854
00:46:43,480 --> 00:46:47,000
from the one that we might eat
in a restaurant in London?
855
00:46:48,320 --> 00:46:50,000
That.
856
00:46:50,000 --> 00:46:53,280
GIORGIO AND NABIL DISCUSS
INGREDIENTS IN ITALIAN
857
00:46:53,280 --> 00:46:55,280
You don't use any belly,
858
00:46:55,280 --> 00:46:56,840
you use the cheek,
859
00:46:56,840 --> 00:46:58,560
the end of the cheek and the neck.
860
00:46:58,560 --> 00:47:01,400
And when you give a recipe with
bacon, you make a big mistake,
861
00:47:01,400 --> 00:47:02,960
because the consistency of this
862
00:47:02,960 --> 00:47:05,280
when it's cooked is
a completely different one
863
00:47:05,280 --> 00:47:06,480
than the bacon would be.
864
00:47:06,480 --> 00:47:10,200
So, rule number one, never cook
a carbonara with bacon.
865
00:47:10,200 --> 00:47:12,520
I think a lot of people would be
quite surprised by that.
866
00:47:12,520 --> 00:47:15,280
Rule number one.
No bacon, no pancetta.
867
00:47:15,280 --> 00:47:17,680
The spaghetti are the main
ingredient, obviously.
868
00:47:17,680 --> 00:47:20,760
They've been dried, you know,
like that.
869
00:47:20,760 --> 00:47:22,600
So they are just going to cross.
870
00:47:22,600 --> 00:47:24,280
But touch the spaghetti.
871
00:47:24,280 --> 00:47:26,600
They're rough. Can you feel
the roughness of that?
872
00:47:26,600 --> 00:47:28,120
Oh, yeah, yeah.
873
00:47:28,120 --> 00:47:29,720
Trafilatura al bronzo.
874
00:47:29,720 --> 00:47:33,280
That means the sauce, which
is kind of, like the eggs,
875
00:47:33,280 --> 00:47:36,680
is cooked and kind of a bit creamy,
it will stick to it.
876
00:47:39,640 --> 00:47:41,320
A really hot pan.
877
00:47:41,320 --> 00:47:44,680
No oil, nothing.
878
00:47:44,680 --> 00:47:46,120
Just the guanciale in it.
879
00:47:46,120 --> 00:47:51,440
You see, it is screaming already.
Yeah.
880
00:47:51,440 --> 00:47:55,040
OK, very crispy on the outside and
really tender inside,
881
00:47:55,040 --> 00:47:58,520
and when you bite into that,
you have an explosion,
882
00:47:58,520 --> 00:48:00,800
an explosion of flavour
in your mouth.
883
00:48:03,560 --> 00:48:04,840
Alora.
884
00:48:04,840 --> 00:48:09,080
Turning the spaghetti, very
important, don't let them lie down.
885
00:48:09,080 --> 00:48:12,560
Yes. He is going to prepare
the eggs now.
886
00:48:12,560 --> 00:48:14,040
OK, the base.
887
00:48:18,640 --> 00:48:21,520
One egg yolk, and then a little bit
of egg white,
888
00:48:21,520 --> 00:48:24,800
because it becomes more foamy
if he does that.
889
00:48:24,800 --> 00:48:26,160
Beautiful eggs as well.
890
00:48:28,000 --> 00:48:30,600
Parmesan and Pecorino
mixed together.
891
00:48:31,720 --> 00:48:34,000
Two nice pinch, pepper.
892
00:48:35,200 --> 00:48:36,680
They love pepper in Rome.
893
00:48:36,680 --> 00:48:38,800
Very important.
Toasted Sarawak pepper.
894
00:48:38,800 --> 00:48:39,840
That is so important.
895
00:48:41,320 --> 00:48:42,720
That is the base.
896
00:48:43,920 --> 00:48:46,840
OK? So no garlic, no bacon?
897
00:48:46,840 --> 00:48:48,840
No! Are you crazy?
898
00:48:48,840 --> 00:48:50,520
Don't start to do the American way.
899
00:48:50,520 --> 00:48:52,560
Do not think about putting
too many things in it.
900
00:48:52,560 --> 00:48:56,720
It is very essential, it is
very clean, it is very neat.
901
00:48:58,440 --> 00:49:00,240
He judges the pasta
just with the eye?
902
00:49:00,240 --> 00:49:01,400
Just by looking at it.
903
00:49:01,400 --> 00:49:02,840
He just looks at the pasta,
904
00:49:02,840 --> 00:49:05,080
he doesn't need a timer or anything
like that.
905
00:49:06,560 --> 00:49:07,920
Look what he's doing now.
906
00:49:07,920 --> 00:49:09,560
OK.
907
00:49:09,560 --> 00:49:12,720
A little bit of the guanciale in.
908
00:49:14,680 --> 00:49:16,400
A little bit of the fat.
909
00:49:16,400 --> 00:49:17,880
Yeah.
910
00:49:17,880 --> 00:49:19,280
A little bit of that.
911
00:49:22,800 --> 00:49:25,640
Water and the fat that is going to
make it creamy.
912
00:49:25,640 --> 00:49:27,840
Rule three. No cream!
913
00:49:27,840 --> 00:49:32,520
No cream. And as the spaghetti goes
in, a little bit wet, you see?
914
00:49:32,520 --> 00:49:34,800
He left them a little bit wet.
915
00:49:34,800 --> 00:49:35,840
Yeah.
916
00:49:38,040 --> 00:49:39,480
This is vital, you see?
917
00:49:39,480 --> 00:49:42,240
The cooking water,
which already got salt.
918
00:49:42,240 --> 00:49:44,400
Do you notice we have not
seasoned anything?
919
00:49:44,400 --> 00:49:46,240
Look, look what he's doing.
920
00:49:46,240 --> 00:49:49,120
So he knows now
by touching the edge,
921
00:49:49,120 --> 00:49:52,440
he knows now the eggs is creamy
and is cooked.
922
00:49:55,280 --> 00:50:00,640
Beautiful. A bit of cheese around
and a little bit of pepper on top.
923
00:50:00,640 --> 00:50:02,760
Wow. Wow. That looks...
924
00:50:05,720 --> 00:50:07,640
Carbonara di Roscioli. Grazie.
925
00:50:15,080 --> 00:50:18,720
Wow, that looks...
926
00:50:25,400 --> 00:50:26,920
I am not leaving this here.
927
00:50:26,920 --> 00:50:28,840
He is not going to let me have any.
928
00:50:28,840 --> 00:50:32,560
You must try to convey to everybody
the flavour here,
929
00:50:32,560 --> 00:50:34,480
that really hint of pepper,
930
00:50:34,480 --> 00:50:37,400
the cheese and the creaminess
of the eggs,
931
00:50:37,400 --> 00:50:41,640
almost like a fluid mayonnaise or
a Bearnaise or a Hollandaise...
932
00:50:41,640 --> 00:50:44,040
That's what you are trying to do.
933
00:50:44,040 --> 00:50:47,000
And then this absolute explosion of
934
00:50:47,000 --> 00:50:49,480
almost like a farmyard taste,
935
00:50:49,480 --> 00:50:52,440
that explosion of the guanciale.
936
00:50:52,440 --> 00:50:53,600
Unbelievable.
937
00:50:53,600 --> 00:50:55,120
Buonissimo.
938
00:50:55,120 --> 00:50:58,040
Grazie. Grazie.
939
00:50:59,280 --> 00:51:01,920
This was a masterclass on carbonara.
940
00:51:01,920 --> 00:51:03,880
It was just!
941
00:51:03,880 --> 00:51:05,480
Thank you.
942
00:51:15,280 --> 00:51:16,440
You know, Giorgio,
943
00:51:16,440 --> 00:51:18,480
if you give me one more
plate of pasta,
944
00:51:18,480 --> 00:51:20,800
we are going to have to buy
a bigger motorbike.
945
00:51:27,840 --> 00:51:30,400
We are going to finish our journey
in modern Rome,
946
00:51:30,400 --> 00:51:32,120
the Rome of the 20th century.
947
00:51:34,760 --> 00:51:37,760
The most famous Italian dictator
in living memory
948
00:51:37,760 --> 00:51:39,280
was Benito Mussolini...
949
00:51:40,800 --> 00:51:44,040
..a man whose granite jaw
and megaphone rhetoric
950
00:51:44,040 --> 00:51:46,880
was only matched by
his severe architecture.
951
00:51:49,080 --> 00:51:51,840
You can still see his buildings
all over Rome,
952
00:51:51,840 --> 00:51:54,520
buildings that shouted
at the Italian people,
953
00:51:54,520 --> 00:51:56,200
telling them to work harder,
954
00:51:56,200 --> 00:51:57,480
to be on time,
955
00:51:57,480 --> 00:52:00,640
to leave the past behind
and go to war.
956
00:52:05,240 --> 00:52:09,360
But in this great city of the
people, Mussolini had his opponents,
957
00:52:09,360 --> 00:52:11,520
even if their voices weren't
always heard.
958
00:52:13,040 --> 00:52:15,400
For proof of that,
I am taking Giorgio to
959
00:52:15,400 --> 00:52:17,320
the Gallery of Modern Art where
960
00:52:17,320 --> 00:52:21,360
they have some of my favourite works
of art from the dark, fascist years.
961
00:52:34,600 --> 00:52:38,120
Here, we can still see
another side of Rome,
962
00:52:38,120 --> 00:52:42,920
the one that never submitted
to fascism and Mussolini.
963
00:52:47,640 --> 00:52:49,520
Look at this figure -
964
00:52:49,520 --> 00:52:53,680
Attilio Torresini's sculpture
called Riposo, At Rest,
965
00:52:53,680 --> 00:52:57,360
but she looks almost as if she might
be eavesdropping on us.
966
00:52:57,360 --> 00:52:59,280
She looks so...
967
00:52:59,280 --> 00:53:03,240
..beautiful and so unsexualised,
but beautiful.
968
00:53:04,480 --> 00:53:06,840
And something slightly sad
about her, I think.
969
00:53:06,840 --> 00:53:09,120
I think there's
an air of melancholy.
970
00:53:09,120 --> 00:53:10,880
You think it is melancholic?
971
00:53:10,880 --> 00:53:12,160
Maybe I am reading that in.
972
00:53:12,160 --> 00:53:15,840
I mean, I know that the sculpture
was made in 1939.
973
00:53:15,840 --> 00:53:17,520
So I just have this feeling that
974
00:53:17,520 --> 00:53:20,960
maybe there's the intimations
of war, there is some sense of...
975
00:53:20,960 --> 00:53:22,920
That is a beautiful Italian girl.
976
00:53:22,920 --> 00:53:24,720
..trouble ahead.
977
00:53:24,720 --> 00:53:26,680
Well, if we're talking melancholy,
978
00:53:26,680 --> 00:53:29,080
vieni con me cos one of
979
00:53:29,080 --> 00:53:33,160
the masterpieces of Italian
melancholy is in the next room.
980
00:53:39,120 --> 00:53:41,440
This is what has been arranged
for us,
981
00:53:41,440 --> 00:53:47,000
a private screening of the
masterpiece of Massimo Campigli
982
00:53:47,000 --> 00:53:48,720
and it's just a wonderful...
983
00:53:48,720 --> 00:53:50,880
So we can sit down? We can sit down.
984
00:53:50,880 --> 00:53:52,840
The film has started already.
985
00:53:52,840 --> 00:53:56,560
It is called The Fishermen's Wives.
986
00:53:56,560 --> 00:53:58,000
It is an oil painting,
987
00:53:58,000 --> 00:53:59,840
but it is a bit like a fresco.
988
00:53:59,840 --> 00:54:01,440
The forms are very simple,
989
00:54:01,440 --> 00:54:04,400
they are very solemn,
they are very monumental.
990
00:54:04,400 --> 00:54:07,640
There is something of the solemnity
of a religious painting.
991
00:54:07,640 --> 00:54:09,880
These women are waiting.
992
00:54:09,880 --> 00:54:11,680
You see, there they are on the left,
993
00:54:11,680 --> 00:54:13,680
they are just holding each other.
994
00:54:17,000 --> 00:54:19,560
The picture was painted in 1935,
995
00:54:19,560 --> 00:54:22,560
so, again, fascism was
at its height.
996
00:54:22,560 --> 00:54:26,480
What could be less fascist
than this?
997
00:54:28,360 --> 00:54:33,480
Beautiful picture. So the sorrow of
the person who loses their husband,
998
00:54:33,480 --> 00:54:37,880
it is almost like saying,
"Don't allow your kids to go to war.
999
00:54:37,880 --> 00:54:39,240
"They never come back."
1000
00:54:39,240 --> 00:54:41,040
I think this is why this
is a painting
1001
00:54:41,040 --> 00:54:44,520
that once you start looking at it,
it does catch in your throat.
1002
00:54:44,520 --> 00:54:48,200
And I think, I mean, are those
the colours of Italy in the middle?
1003
00:54:48,200 --> 00:54:50,640
Are those the colours of...?
Well, there is a bit of green,
1004
00:54:50,640 --> 00:54:53,200
there is some red,
there is some white.
1005
00:54:53,200 --> 00:54:56,480
He enlisted, in the First World War
in 1916,
1006
00:54:56,480 --> 00:54:59,440
but then during the war
and immediately after the war,
1007
00:54:59,440 --> 00:55:01,680
he was so horrified by all of that
1008
00:55:01,680 --> 00:55:04,160
he said, "I am now forever
going to be a pacifist."
1009
00:55:04,160 --> 00:55:07,160
But I think it is important
to look at these artists
1010
00:55:07,160 --> 00:55:09,200
because, as so often in history,
1011
00:55:09,200 --> 00:55:11,400
the people who make the most noise,
1012
00:55:11,400 --> 00:55:14,680
and the future is with Marinetti as
their spokesman banging his drum,
1013
00:55:14,680 --> 00:55:16,920
and Mussolini with his megaphone,
1014
00:55:16,920 --> 00:55:18,800
everybody knows about them,
1015
00:55:18,800 --> 00:55:21,160
but nobody knows about
these artists.
1016
00:55:21,160 --> 00:55:22,640
It is a much quieter voice,
1017
00:55:22,640 --> 00:55:24,560
but it is the voice of conscience.
1018
00:55:24,560 --> 00:55:26,400
I think it is a truthful voice.
1019
00:55:26,400 --> 00:55:27,880
You know, it makes me think,
1020
00:55:27,880 --> 00:55:30,520
what could have been if there was
more people like him?
1021
00:55:30,520 --> 00:55:33,360
It would have never happened,
that Second World War,
1022
00:55:33,360 --> 00:55:36,160
they would have never did
what they did to each other.
1023
00:55:36,160 --> 00:55:37,360
It was just terrible.
1024
00:55:37,360 --> 00:55:39,480
And these guys were
absolutely right.
1025
00:55:43,520 --> 00:55:44,800
Maybe in the end,
1026
00:55:44,800 --> 00:55:46,280
that is what artists are for.
1027
00:55:46,280 --> 00:55:50,240
To make... To see what we don't see.
1028
00:55:50,240 --> 00:55:51,440
Si.
1029
00:55:59,520 --> 00:56:01,400
We are at the end of our journey
1030
00:56:01,400 --> 00:56:04,200
through a city that is
defined by its people.
1031
00:56:04,200 --> 00:56:08,040
So where better to finish
than with a work of public art?
1032
00:56:08,040 --> 00:56:10,760
Proclaiming the eternal
might of Rome
1033
00:56:10,760 --> 00:56:13,760
on the wall of a modern building.
1034
00:56:13,760 --> 00:56:17,400
Look what they have put on the side
of the apartment block,
1035
00:56:17,400 --> 00:56:22,920
this huge, fantastic, I think,
mural of a wolf, the symbol of Rome.
1036
00:56:22,920 --> 00:56:25,120
It is unbelievable.
1037
00:56:25,120 --> 00:56:26,920
It is so real, isn't it?
1038
00:56:26,920 --> 00:56:29,040
You can almost hear it snarling.
1039
00:56:29,040 --> 00:56:33,200
I love the hairs and I love it
when the evening sun catches it,
1040
00:56:33,200 --> 00:56:38,120
the wolf is there and this ordinary
building suddenly becomes, wow!
1041
00:56:38,120 --> 00:56:43,760
What things did you like the best of
the things that we saw on this trip?
1042
00:56:43,760 --> 00:56:45,120
The Caravaggio?
1043
00:56:45,120 --> 00:56:48,680
Well, those ones were
unforgettable, man.
1044
00:56:48,680 --> 00:56:52,520
And that St Paul...
1045
00:56:52,520 --> 00:56:54,080
..and the story of the asses,
1046
00:56:54,080 --> 00:56:58,080
everybody showed their ass to each
other, that was fantastic.
1047
00:56:58,080 --> 00:57:01,360
Another popular thing that I really
liked about was the Garbatella.
1048
00:57:01,360 --> 00:57:03,440
Oh! That was so beautiful.
1049
00:57:03,440 --> 00:57:10,000
I remember also, the crunch of
the guanciale in the carbonara,
1050
00:57:10,000 --> 00:57:11,840
the perfect carbonara.
1051
00:57:11,840 --> 00:57:14,240
If you were going to feed
that wolf anything,
1052
00:57:14,240 --> 00:57:17,480
you would give him a really big
piece of that guanciale.
1053
00:57:18,800 --> 00:57:20,880
This is the wolf of the people,
1054
00:57:20,880 --> 00:57:24,480
aggressive and opinionated
1055
00:57:24,480 --> 00:57:27,240
and Roman to the core.
1056
00:57:27,240 --> 00:57:28,720
I like that kind of Rome,
1057
00:57:28,720 --> 00:57:31,440
I like Rome that stays alive
through the people.
1058
00:57:31,440 --> 00:57:33,520
And, you know, the Pope
comes and change,
1059
00:57:33,520 --> 00:57:36,360
and the President comes and change,
the King comes and change,
1060
00:57:36,360 --> 00:57:38,800
but the people of Rome,
are still the people of Rome.
1061
00:57:40,160 --> 00:57:42,120
They are the one who rules.
1062
00:57:42,120 --> 00:57:44,120
They really are.
You remember that one?
1063
00:57:44,120 --> 00:57:45,800
SPQR.
1064
00:57:45,800 --> 00:57:49,640
Senatus Populusque Romanus.
1065
00:57:51,800 --> 00:57:53,400
I think it is dinner time.
1066
00:57:53,400 --> 00:57:56,160
And you know, in Rome, dinner
is always quite good, isn't it?
1067
00:57:56,160 --> 00:57:57,480
Not bad. Not bad.
1068
00:58:00,320 --> 00:58:04,240
Next time, we uncover
more of the hidden Rome.
1069
00:58:04,240 --> 00:58:07,080
If you look in the middle,
staring out at us,
1070
00:58:07,080 --> 00:58:09,640
a painting of the first century AD,
1071
00:58:09,640 --> 00:58:11,600
and there are not many of those.
1072
00:58:11,600 --> 00:58:13,880
So this is a kidney sandwich.
1073
00:58:13,880 --> 00:58:17,080
We try centuries-old traditions.
1074
00:58:17,080 --> 00:58:20,880
Oh, mamma mia. We tasted Roman-ity.
1075
00:58:22,600 --> 00:58:26,600
And we pay a visit to one of
Rome's greatest art collections.
1076
00:58:26,600 --> 00:58:30,360
Not a bad room to have a party in.
1077
00:58:30,360 --> 00:58:34,200
The Open University has produced a
free guide to interesting places
1078
00:58:34,200 --> 00:58:35,960
to visit while you are in Rome.
1079
00:58:35,960 --> 00:58:38,480
To order your free copy,
please call...
1080
00:58:41,520 --> 00:58:43,120
Or go to the website...
1081
00:58:47,720 --> 00:58:50,040
..and follow the link
to the Open University.
134577
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