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Chocolate is not
any old piece of confectionery.
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For a lot of us, it holds
a very special place in our lives.
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You could say
we're addicted to the stuff.
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It's no surprise the Aztecs
called it "the food of gods".
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This is fun.
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'In its long and rich history,
it's been a currency, a medicine,
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'an aphrodisiac
and a sinful indulgence.
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'I'm going to see
how chocolate is made
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'by some of the best chocolatiers
in the world,
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'what their secrets are
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'and how they've married
state-of-the-art technology
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'with craft traditions
centuries old.
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'But this isn't just about revelling
in this luxurious foodstuff.
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'I'm on a serious quest
to create my own unique chocolate
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'to use in my cooking.'
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Ooh!
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'You won't be surprised
that in my search for the best,
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'I won't be touring the UK.'
You cannot touch the product!
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No dipping your finger in.
There's no touching the product.
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'And you can forget about
Switzerland and Belgium.
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'For me, if you want
chocolate to die for...'
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Ohhh!
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'..you have to head to France.'
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We've all got a childhood memory
of chocolate,
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a favourite bar or a particularly
delicious Easter egg.
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My memories are firmly associated
with my mother, Monique,
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who makes heavenly chocolates.
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She started her working life
in a Parisian chocolate shop.
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It's with my mother, my sister.
Mm. Wow. It's a nice photograph.
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It's a beautiful photograph.
Mm. I'm about 15 there.
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And that's the time that I went to
the shop, doing the chocolate boxes.
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Eating chocolates.
I can see there's...
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Actually, you're more rounded there
than you are now, Mum!
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It's my cheeks! You must have been
on the chocolate diet then.
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Yes, exactly. Yeah.
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And look, that, I'm only a year old,
but I'm already chubby,
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so I must have had some chocolate
in my...biberon, in my bottle.
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SHE LAUGHS
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We've always loved chocolate
in the family.
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I remember you making me
not so much chocolate brownies
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but chocolate cake for birthdays.
Yes, yes, always.
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And I used to put some -
like everybody used to do -
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little Smarties all round!
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Smarties? I know, I know!
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You know, I've made some for you. Mm!
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Right. Am I allowed? Absolutely!
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Oh, wow.
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Oh, wow.
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I don't remember making these before,
because, you know, well,
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I've put some alcohol also inside!
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As you're a big boy now,
you can have a little bit of...!
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I was going to say, they are
grown-up truffles. Yes, yes.
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I'm here in Lyon,
the gastronomic capital of France,
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where I trained as a young chef
many years ago.
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But I'm here to visit
a chocolate dynasty,
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because it's as good
a place as any to start.
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'The Bernachon
chocolate-making dynasty
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'stretches back three generations,
to the 1950s.
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'Founder Maurice Bernachon
used to say
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'chocolate is not
a simple treat or sweet
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'but an authentic gourmet food.
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'His grandson Philippe
now guards his legacy.'
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Yay!
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Wow!
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'The chocolate-making machines
at Bernachon
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'date back to the founding
of the shop in the 1950s.
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'They believe in
traditional methods here.
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'This one plays an essential part
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'in the creation of Bernachon's
signature cake, Le President.
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'It was created in the 1970s
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'in honour of French President
Valery Giscard d'Estaing.
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'This is not a job
for an apprentice.
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'It takes years of practice
to make this look so effortless.'
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Whoa.
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Bonjour!
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Mmmm!
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Wow.
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Ah, oui. Voila.
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'Sugar is added to the cocoa beans,
which have been ground and roasted
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'and then poured into this machine,
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'which slowly heats the mixture
and grinds it into a gritty paste.
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'The next machine smoothes the paste
out even more, refining the mix.
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'But it's still not
chocolate as we know it.'
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Et ca, c'est ce qu'il va donner.
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Le fondant du chocolat,
c'est grace a cette machine.
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'If I'm going to create
my own chocolate blend,
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'I'm going to have to take on board
what I've learnt at Bernachon.
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'Good chocolate is like wine.
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'Its taste is determined
by where the cocoa beans come from,
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'how they're grown,
roasted and combined.
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'There are so many factors
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'that contribute to making
this complex foodstuff.'
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Wow!
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00:10:28,000 --> 00:10:33,000
'Philippe's grandfather was right.
Chocolate is NOT for beginners.
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'The history of chocolate
goes back thousands of years,
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'to the ancient civilisations
of Central America,
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'to the Olmecs, Mayans and Aztecs.
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'For these people,
chocolate took the form
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'of an exclusive and sacred drink.
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'At the chocolate museum in Paris,
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'I'm going to make and taste
chocolate Aztec-style
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'in the company of its director,
Fabrice Stijnen.'
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00:11:03,000 --> 00:11:06,000
Right, Fabrice,
this is the Aztec recipe,
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so all these ingredients
are here for the drink,
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because it was a drink then.
It was a drink.
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Actually, the history
of cocoa and chocolate has
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more than 3,000 years of consumption
as a beverage exclusively.
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00:11:21,000 --> 00:11:25,000
So, we have the cocoa beans,
of course, we have corn,
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we have sapota kernels... Sa...
Sapota kernels.
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So it's a fruit, or a...?
Actually, it's like an avocado. Ah!
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But we use the kernel of it. Hm! OK?
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00:11:37,000 --> 00:11:42,000
Here, we have some chilli,
of course, pepper...
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'The ingredients of this Aztec
recipe come down to us
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'from the Spanish monks and priests,
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'who minutely chronicled
life in the New World.'
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..cocoa or achiote, and maybe -
we are not sure about that -
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they used a little bit of honey.
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'These ancient societies would use
a grinding stone called a metate
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'to crush the cocoa beans
into a paste.'
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You see, it starts to...
Oh, yeah, yeah. ..to...
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to be ready here.
Can I have a go? Sure you can.
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MICHEL CHUCKLES
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This is fun!
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Right...
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Right, here we go.
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So, I mean, it's a kind of a mortar
and pestle. A large one. Yeah!
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FABRICE LAUGHS
Hey, look!
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I've nearly made chocolate.
It's nearly there.
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It definitely smells of chocolate.
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Hopefully. It's recognisable
as chocolate so far.
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'For the majority
of Mayans and Aztecs,
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'chocolate was a drink only to be
taken on special occasions,
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'to celebrate a birth, a marriage
or mourn a death.
134
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'The nobility would drink it
more frequently,
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'as they could afford
the costly ingredients.
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'It was said that the Aztec emperor
Montezuma sometimes drank
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'50 cups of chocolate each day,
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'though that seems
a bit over the top.'
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So, the qualities of this drink
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would be for invigorating
and for health purposes. Yeah.
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Actually, this beverage was used
for different purposes.
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The first, the main one, we know,
it was to bring a boost for the body,
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and the other purpose
of using this beverage
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was for making offerings to the gods.
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To get the favours of the gods,
they had to make offerings to them.
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Mm. So what did they offer to them?
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They offered what's the most
valuable, like cocoa beans
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and also blood. Blood? So they added
some blood, too, in the beverage.
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I'm not drinking this. No, but...
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We need to add some blood into it.
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So they used some tools
to, well, slit their ear lobes,
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their tongue or the lips
to spill some blood onto it.
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But today, we have a substitute
that they also used.
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It was called the achiote.
You used it before?
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'Achiote was a natural
food colouring
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'produced by the fruit
of a small tree.
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'You can tell how important
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'the cocoa bean was
to these American civilisations
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'by the fact that it was used
as money.
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'A 16-century Spanish chronicler
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'noted that a prostitute could be
bought for ten cocoa beans,
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'while a slave was worth 100.'
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There you have the molinillo.
Molonio. Molinillo.
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Molonio. Moli. Moli.
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Moli-ni-llo. Molinillo.
It's a Spanish word, OK? Yeah.
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OK. And it's used for...
Straight in. Yeah.
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Then you twist it in your hands.
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Oh! Look at that! Mm!
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I'm not sure what to expect
from this, but here goes.
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Well, it's a bit bitty.
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Blood...
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It's a bit bitty, and it's
very hot, as in spicy. My God!
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They liked it this way, actually.
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Oh!
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You're going to be good for
a full day. Maybe a week. Yeah.
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I can imagine after a drink of this,
you'd face the world.
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No enemy would be strong enough.
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'If Montezuma drank
50 cups of this a day,
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'he must have had cast-iron bowels.'
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I think it smells a lot better
than it tastes. A lot better.
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Mmm. Mmm.
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It wasn't long before
the conquerors of the Aztecs,
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the Spanish conquistadors, took
an interest in this rare foodstuff,
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and soon chocolate made
the journey to Spain.
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Almost as soon as Europeans
had discovered chocolate,
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they were speculating about
whether it was good or bad for them.
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Many, like Parisian doctor
Joseph Bachot,
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sang its praises. He wrote:
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This is one of my favourite
chocolate shops,
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in the heart of Lyon.
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And whenever I come to Lyon,
I always come here and stock up.
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It is just unbelievable. I mean,
it's almost playful. I mean, look.
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Lipstick. Edible chocolate lipstick.
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But, made with real chocolate.
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Proper chocolate.
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Even CDs in the shape of chocolate.
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You can't play them,
but you can eat them.
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Wonderful mixtures of oranges,
figs, pralines,
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but what I absolutely
adore with this shop
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is the name that they give
to their chocolates.
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For example...
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"Barres Anti-Stress".
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You eat this, and all your stresses,
all your worries go away.
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Here we have "Le Conquistador".
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This big monster here,
and this is a particular chocolate
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that between myself and my daughter,
we used to fight over this.
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Fight over this! It's such
a delicious, delicious chocolate.
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It's more than a chocolate.
It's a dessert.
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But then, there's also...
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Buchette Aphrodisiaque.
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Yes! I think I will take
one of these home with me.
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When chocolate made the journey
from the New World to the Old,
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it underwent a major transformation.
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00:17:55,000 --> 00:17:59,000
So, the conquistadors arrived
in Mexico, they tasted this
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wonderful food/drink, kind of,
and took it back with them.
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That's right, that's correct.
They tweaked it?
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00:18:06,000 --> 00:18:07,000
They made it a little bit more...
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00:18:07,000 --> 00:18:10,000
Yet, they made some changes,
of course.
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The one who brought back the recipe
to the Spaniard king
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was Cortes, Hernan Cortes,
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and when he brought back
this recipe, of course,
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it was not suiting
the European tastes,
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of course, as we saw earlier.
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So we're going to make it up?
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So, we basically have kind of
the same ingredients,
226
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but missing some,
and adding new ones.
227
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So we are removing the chilli,
we've still got some pepper,
228
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but in lower quantities,
we have new spices.
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The most important one is sugar.
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They added sugar cane, and of course,
for the European taste,
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they added hazelnuts,
almonds, aniseed, cinnamon.
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Straightaway, this looks
a lot more appealing to me.
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00:19:06,000 --> 00:19:09,000
Appealing and interesting
and palatable.
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So, a little bit of crushed-up
clove, pepper and aniseed,
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and into hot water. This was
a hot drink? That's hot water.
236
00:19:16,000 --> 00:19:17,000
Yeah, yeah, we drink it hot.
237
00:19:18,000 --> 00:19:21,000
Here we go. And we hold it still.
238
00:19:22,000 --> 00:19:25,000
Still a bit of work to go into it,
though. That's necessary.
239
00:19:25,000 --> 00:19:29,000
Better have servants to do that!
Yeah, really.
240
00:19:29,000 --> 00:19:34,000
The servants that was preparing
the beverage was called the Molina.
241
00:19:34,000 --> 00:19:35,000
"Molina."
242
00:19:35,000 --> 00:19:37,000
It was a woman as well.
243
00:19:37,000 --> 00:19:39,000
So there would be a dedicated person
just for making the chocolate?
244
00:19:39,000 --> 00:19:42,000
They were very rich.
245
00:19:42,000 --> 00:19:46,000
So here we have a beverage
made out of water, basically. Yes.
246
00:19:46,000 --> 00:19:51,000
And the first writings about
using milk are in the 1700s,
247
00:19:51,000 --> 00:19:53,000
so we still have to wait
a little while.
248
00:19:55,000 --> 00:19:56,000
Let's try it. Yeah.
249
00:20:00,000 --> 00:20:01,000
Quite good. Actually...
250
00:20:04,000 --> 00:20:05,000
You did well.
251
00:20:06,000 --> 00:20:09,000
It's not unpleasant. Maybe I could
have put a bit more chocolate in.
252
00:20:11,000 --> 00:20:12,000
And sugar.
253
00:20:12,000 --> 00:20:14,000
I like sweet. Yeah, yeah.
254
00:20:14,000 --> 00:20:18,000
But it's not too spicy.
It's really different than before.
255
00:20:24,000 --> 00:20:27,000
Chocolate didn't stay long in Spain,
256
00:20:27,000 --> 00:20:29,000
despite the Spanish having
a temporary monopoly
257
00:20:29,000 --> 00:20:32,000
of cocoa bean production
through its American conquest.
258
00:20:33,000 --> 00:20:36,000
Soon, this new indulgence
found its way
259
00:20:36,000 --> 00:20:38,000
to the very centre
of European power.
260
00:20:51,000 --> 00:20:54,000
The Palais de Versailles is
one of the most extraordinary
261
00:20:54,000 --> 00:20:56,000
royal courts of Europe,
262
00:20:56,000 --> 00:21:01,000
built in the 17th and 18th century
by the Bourbon dynasty of France.
263
00:21:01,000 --> 00:21:07,000
Amongst all this extravagance and
opulence, it really is no surprise
264
00:21:07,000 --> 00:21:11,000
that chocolate and the drinking
of chocolate found its home here.
265
00:21:51,000 --> 00:21:56,000
Like his father, Louis XIV
also married a Spanish princess,
266
00:21:56,000 --> 00:21:57,000
Marie Therese.
267
00:21:57,000 --> 00:22:01,000
Her love of chocolate meant
it became a firm court favourite,
268
00:22:01,000 --> 00:22:03,000
served at all the parties
given by the king.
269
00:23:34,000 --> 00:23:36,000
Chocolate was all about pleasure.
270
00:23:38,000 --> 00:23:39,000
Every type of pleasure.
271
00:23:49,000 --> 00:23:51,000
After I've sort of
really had a nice fill of it,
272
00:23:51,000 --> 00:23:54,000
I just feel really relaxed.
273
00:23:54,000 --> 00:23:55,000
Almost like an orgasm.
274
00:24:00,000 --> 00:24:04,000
Chocolate and romance are
inextricably linked together.
275
00:24:04,000 --> 00:24:06,000
I mean, after all, who doesn't like
276
00:24:06,000 --> 00:24:08,000
to give or receive
a box of chocolates?
277
00:24:08,000 --> 00:24:12,000
It does warm the heart,
but it is in this era
278
00:24:12,000 --> 00:24:16,000
that chocolate gained
its reputation as an aphrodisiac.
279
00:24:16,000 --> 00:24:20,000
It stimulates the blood circulation,
aids in lovemaking,
280
00:24:20,000 --> 00:24:23,000
especially to these naughty
kings and mistresses.
281
00:24:25,000 --> 00:24:28,000
Given its reputation
as an aphrodisiac,
282
00:24:28,000 --> 00:24:30,000
it's no wonder that drinking
chocolate was a favourite
283
00:24:30,000 --> 00:24:33,000
of courtesans such as
Madame Du Barry,
284
00:24:33,000 --> 00:24:35,000
the last official mistress
of Louis XV.
285
00:25:12,000 --> 00:25:13,000
Ah!
286
00:25:20,000 --> 00:25:23,000
You can tell the importance of
drinking chocolate
287
00:25:23,000 --> 00:25:26,000
as part of a daily ritual
of the powerful and wealthy
288
00:25:26,000 --> 00:25:29,000
in the 18th century by the number
of portraits it features in.
289
00:26:19,000 --> 00:26:21,000
'One last chocolate recipe
with Fabrice.
290
00:26:21,000 --> 00:26:25,000
'This one would have been served
at the court of Versailles.'
291
00:26:25,000 --> 00:26:27,000
Looks familiar.
It does look familiar.
292
00:26:27,000 --> 00:26:29,000
And I think we should have
the egg yolk in it.
293
00:26:30,000 --> 00:26:32,000
Because I think an egg yolk's
going to be lovely.
294
00:26:32,000 --> 00:26:34,000
It's going to add a real richness.
295
00:26:37,000 --> 00:26:38,000
Egg yolk in.
296
00:26:41,000 --> 00:26:43,000
Oh, look at that!
297
00:26:44,000 --> 00:26:45,000
Oh, yes.
298
00:26:47,000 --> 00:26:49,000
Mmmmm.
299
00:26:51,000 --> 00:26:52,000
Oh, yes.
300
00:26:53,000 --> 00:26:55,000
MICHEL CHUCKLES
301
00:26:58,000 --> 00:27:00,000
Ah, yes. That's what I know.
302
00:27:00,000 --> 00:27:01,000
Maybe better.
303
00:27:03,000 --> 00:27:06,000
Yeah. Ohhh.
304
00:27:06,000 --> 00:27:09,000
Congratulations, you did well.
MICHEL CHUCKLES
305
00:27:09,000 --> 00:27:11,000
Very well.
This is proper drinking chocolate!
306
00:27:21,000 --> 00:27:25,000
The 1700s saw a revolution
in drinking habits.
307
00:27:25,000 --> 00:27:29,000
Tea and coffee came to Europe,
and the cafe was born.
308
00:27:29,000 --> 00:27:32,000
Here in the Procope,
one of the oldest cafes in Paris,
309
00:27:32,000 --> 00:27:36,000
chocolate became the drink the
wealthy middle class could enjoy.
310
00:27:36,000 --> 00:27:40,000
Even before the French Revolution,
the practice of drinking chocolate
311
00:27:40,000 --> 00:27:44,000
was moving out of the courts
and palaces and into the cafes.
312
00:27:52,000 --> 00:27:56,000
Writers, thinkers and public figures
would set the world to rights
313
00:27:56,000 --> 00:27:58,000
over a cup of hot chocolate.
314
00:27:58,000 --> 00:28:03,000
And here, in La Procope,
Voltaire would enjoy his chocolate
315
00:28:03,000 --> 00:28:06,000
with other members
of the French Enlightenment.
316
00:28:06,000 --> 00:28:09,000
Chocolate was no longer
the food of Kings.
317
00:28:16,000 --> 00:28:20,000
It's worth reflecting on the fact
that this explosion in the drinking
318
00:28:20,000 --> 00:28:24,000
of tea, coffee and chocolate
was driven by slave labour.
319
00:28:24,000 --> 00:28:26,000
It wasn't just sugar plantations
320
00:28:26,000 --> 00:28:28,000
that were worked by slaves
in this period.
321
00:28:31,000 --> 00:28:36,000
In 1800, Sulpice Debauve,
former pharmacist to Louis XVI,
322
00:28:36,000 --> 00:28:39,000
opened up his first chocolate shop
in Paris.
323
00:28:39,000 --> 00:28:42,000
It was a sign that chocolate
was undergoing a transition
324
00:28:42,000 --> 00:28:44,000
from liquid to solid,
325
00:28:44,000 --> 00:28:46,000
from drinking chocolate to sweets.
326
00:28:48,000 --> 00:28:50,000
# The more I see you
327
00:28:51,000 --> 00:28:54,000
# The more I want you
328
00:28:55,000 --> 00:28:57,000
# Somehow this feeling
329
00:28:59,000 --> 00:29:03,000
# Just grows and grows... #
330
00:29:03,000 --> 00:29:06,000
Chocolate in the 18th century
was like caviar is today,
331
00:29:06,000 --> 00:29:08,000
an expensive delicacy.
332
00:29:08,000 --> 00:29:10,000
But it was treated with reverence,
333
00:29:10,000 --> 00:29:16,000
and thankfully, in these Parisian
chic boutiques, it still is today.
334
00:29:16,000 --> 00:29:21,000
Chocolate is a serious business
in France, not to be taken lightly.
335
00:29:27,000 --> 00:29:29,000
This is one of the Parisian
chocolate shops
336
00:29:29,000 --> 00:29:32,000
of top French chocolatier
Jean-Paul Hevin.
337
00:29:32,000 --> 00:29:35,000
You might think
you're in a high-end jewellers,
338
00:29:35,000 --> 00:29:37,000
or an haute couture boutique.
339
00:29:37,000 --> 00:29:40,000
This is what's unique
about chocolate in France,
340
00:29:40,000 --> 00:29:43,000
a mix of style,
the best ingredients,
341
00:29:43,000 --> 00:29:47,000
superb craft, and a playful vision.
342
00:29:47,000 --> 00:29:51,000
Yes, that's right.
It's a chocolate stiletto.
343
00:29:51,000 --> 00:29:53,000
# Can you imagine
344
00:29:55,000 --> 00:29:57,000
# How much I love you
345
00:29:58,000 --> 00:30:01,000
# The more I see you
346
00:30:02,000 --> 00:30:06,000
# As years go by
347
00:30:07,000 --> 00:30:10,000
# I know the only one for me
348
00:30:10,000 --> 00:30:14,000
# Can only be you
349
00:30:14,000 --> 00:30:17,000
# My arms won't free you
350
00:30:17,000 --> 00:30:20,000
# And my heart won't try. #
351
00:30:24,000 --> 00:30:27,000
In his kitchen, Jean-Paul combines
state-of-the-art machinery
352
00:30:27,000 --> 00:30:30,000
with craft skills that have
existed for centuries.
353
00:31:43,000 --> 00:31:47,000
All great chocolatiers
have their signature piece.
354
00:31:47,000 --> 00:31:49,000
For Jean-Paul,
it's the edible stiletto.
355
00:32:30,000 --> 00:32:33,000
He's just putting a little bit
of edible varnish on it,
356
00:32:33,000 --> 00:32:36,000
which gives it that lovely shine.
It looks like a...
357
00:32:36,000 --> 00:32:39,000
Well, now, it really does look like
a very expensive shoe.
358
00:32:39,000 --> 00:32:41,000
A really expensive shoe.
Which it is.
359
00:32:46,000 --> 00:32:48,000
It needs to come down
in temperature.
360
00:33:10,000 --> 00:33:13,000
For chocoholics and shoe fetishists
everywhere,
361
00:33:13,000 --> 00:33:16,000
the Jean-Paul Hevin shoe.
362
00:33:16,000 --> 00:33:18,000
It might come in several colours,
363
00:33:18,000 --> 00:33:22,000
but unfortunately
only in one size - 35.
364
00:33:22,000 --> 00:33:24,000
And only for the right foot.
365
00:33:25,000 --> 00:33:27,000
According to
the chocolate manufacturers,
366
00:33:27,000 --> 00:33:31,000
one of the things we want is
chocolate that sounds good.
367
00:33:31,000 --> 00:33:34,000
So at this research laboratory,
they are trying to create
368
00:33:34,000 --> 00:33:38,000
a chocolate bar that makes
the right sound when you snap it.
369
00:33:44,000 --> 00:33:48,000
Debate has raged ever since
Europeans discovered chocolate
370
00:33:48,000 --> 00:33:50,000
as to whether it's good
or bad for you.
371
00:33:50,000 --> 00:33:53,000
Currently, some extraordinary claims
are being made
372
00:33:53,000 --> 00:33:55,000
for the health-giving benefits
of chocolate.
373
00:35:29,000 --> 00:35:31,000
It wasn't until the 19th century
374
00:35:31,000 --> 00:35:35,000
that chocolate became an affordable
item, no longer a luxury.
375
00:35:35,000 --> 00:35:39,000
New manufacturing techniques meant
that chocolate could be produced
376
00:35:39,000 --> 00:35:43,000
cheaply and of a consistent quality.
377
00:35:43,000 --> 00:35:47,000
This was the era of the great
British chocolate manufacturers -
378
00:35:47,000 --> 00:35:51,000
Cadbury's, Terry's and Fry's.
379
00:35:51,000 --> 00:35:53,000
The chocolate bar had come of age.
380
00:36:05,000 --> 00:36:07,000
In the 19th century,
381
00:36:07,000 --> 00:36:11,000
as chocolate moved slowly
away from the chemist's shop,
382
00:36:11,000 --> 00:36:18,000
also, all these aphrodisiac
connotations tend to fade away.
383
00:36:18,000 --> 00:36:23,000
Chocolate becomes an item
that can be given to children,
384
00:36:23,000 --> 00:36:25,000
which was not the case before.
385
00:36:25,000 --> 00:36:30,000
Until the 18th century, no child
would readily have chocolate
386
00:36:30,000 --> 00:36:33,000
because you don't know
its properties.
387
00:36:34,000 --> 00:36:37,000
But I would say, with the development
of these new techniques
388
00:36:37,000 --> 00:36:39,000
and the development of production,
389
00:36:39,000 --> 00:36:42,000
chocolate definitely had
a connotation
390
00:36:42,000 --> 00:36:46,000
which was readily marketed
by these industrialists,
391
00:36:46,000 --> 00:36:51,000
particularly the British ones,
because most of them were Quaker
392
00:36:51,000 --> 00:36:57,000
and as such, strong believers
in the fight against alcoholism.
393
00:36:57,000 --> 00:37:03,000
And chocolate was seen
as a substitute for cheap gin.
394
00:37:03,000 --> 00:37:08,000
And so, you know, anyone can drink
chocolate, it's good for you,
395
00:37:08,000 --> 00:37:11,000
it's good for children,
it helps restore your strength,
396
00:37:11,000 --> 00:37:15,000
and certainly will help
lead a healthy life.
397
00:37:18,000 --> 00:37:21,000
Applying industrial methods
to making chocolate
398
00:37:21,000 --> 00:37:24,000
brought it within reach
of ordinary people.
399
00:37:24,000 --> 00:37:29,000
But it also meant a dilution of
the use of pure cocoa ingredients.
400
00:37:29,000 --> 00:37:31,000
The addition of milk, sugar
401
00:37:31,000 --> 00:37:34,000
and the substitution
of vegetable fats for cocoa paste
402
00:37:34,000 --> 00:37:37,000
made chocolate sweeter
and lighter in appearance.
403
00:37:40,000 --> 00:37:44,000
This is approximately
the amount of chocolate
404
00:37:44,000 --> 00:37:47,000
which I used to eat every day -
four bars of half a pound each.
405
00:37:47,000 --> 00:37:49,000
Only black chocolate. Only plain.
406
00:37:49,000 --> 00:37:52,000
And I used to watch at the back,
it had to have a minimum
407
00:37:52,000 --> 00:37:57,000
of 51 to 55 or sometimes even
75 percent cocoa mass.
408
00:37:57,000 --> 00:38:00,000
Because I don't want
to get into trouble legally,
409
00:38:00,000 --> 00:38:04,000
but, I mean, the EEC commissions,
I think,
410
00:38:04,000 --> 00:38:08,000
they warned England that
the amount of cocoa which they had
411
00:38:08,000 --> 00:38:12,000
in a lot of chocolate here
didn't qualify it
412
00:38:12,000 --> 00:38:14,000
for it to be called chocolate,
413
00:38:14,000 --> 00:38:16,000
it should have been called vegelate.
It's true.
414
00:38:16,000 --> 00:38:19,000
Now, some manufacturers have
obviously gone out of business
415
00:38:19,000 --> 00:38:23,000
because their standards have
not been maintained.
416
00:38:23,000 --> 00:38:26,000
We aim to keep going on
for generations and generations.
417
00:39:24,000 --> 00:39:28,000
If Jean-Paul Hevin represents
the traditional, high-end
French chocolatier,
418
00:39:28,000 --> 00:39:31,000
then the enfant terrible
of the chocolate world
419
00:39:31,000 --> 00:39:33,000
is one Patrick Roger.
420
00:39:33,000 --> 00:39:36,000
He's managed to combine
his two obsessions -
421
00:39:36,000 --> 00:39:38,000
chocolate and sculpture.
422
00:40:53,000 --> 00:40:56,000
Like Jean-Paul Hevin, Roger wears
the much-coveted tricolor collar
423
00:40:56,000 --> 00:40:59,000
on his chef's jacket.
424
00:40:59,000 --> 00:41:01,000
This is a sign that he's won
the highest accolade
425
00:41:01,000 --> 00:41:04,000
that his profession can bestow -
426
00:41:04,000 --> 00:41:06,000
Meilleur Ouvrier de France.
427
00:41:06,000 --> 00:41:08,000
The piece of work
that won it for Roger
428
00:41:08,000 --> 00:41:11,000
was unusual
in chocolate-making circles -
429
00:41:11,000 --> 00:41:15,000
a life-size sculpture
of a cocoa plantation worker
430
00:41:15,000 --> 00:41:17,000
made entirely out of chocolate.
431
00:41:38,000 --> 00:41:42,000
Patrick's sculptures are made
from top-quality edible chocolate.
432
00:41:42,000 --> 00:41:45,000
Some are made for high-paying
corporate clients.
433
00:41:45,000 --> 00:41:48,000
Others are the result
of his own obsessions.
434
00:41:48,000 --> 00:41:49,000
The monkeys, for example,
435
00:41:49,000 --> 00:41:52,000
were born out of his interest
in wildlife conservation.
436
00:42:55,000 --> 00:42:59,000
The chocolate sculptures eventually
decay and fall apart.
437
00:42:59,000 --> 00:43:01,000
But Patrick has taken
to making moulds of them
438
00:43:01,000 --> 00:43:04,000
and casting them in bronze.
439
00:43:04,000 --> 00:43:08,000
These bronze pieces
sell for thousands of pounds.
440
00:43:58,000 --> 00:43:59,000
Four tonnes.
441
00:44:25,000 --> 00:44:27,000
La il y a un probleme,
il manque un doigt.
442
00:44:27,000 --> 00:44:28,000
Oui, il faut qu'on recree...
443
00:44:28,000 --> 00:44:31,000
'It's time for me to
try my hand at chocolate sculpture.
444
00:44:31,000 --> 00:44:34,000
'A little repair job
on a missing finger.'
445
00:44:58,000 --> 00:45:01,000
He's got cold hands,
I mean really cold hands.
446
00:45:47,000 --> 00:45:50,000
That little bit's mine.
447
00:45:50,000 --> 00:45:53,000
That little bit there's mine!
448
00:46:00,000 --> 00:46:03,000
It's time to put into practice
all that I've learnt
449
00:46:03,000 --> 00:46:04,000
on my chocolate taste-journey,
450
00:46:04,000 --> 00:46:07,000
and create my very own chocolate
451
00:46:07,000 --> 00:46:08,000
at a place that supplies
452
00:46:08,000 --> 00:46:12,000
some of the very top chefs
and restaurants the world over.
453
00:46:12,000 --> 00:46:15,000
I'm here on the outskirts of Paris
at the headquarters of Cacao Barry,
454
00:46:15,000 --> 00:46:19,000
more specifically the original house
of Monsieur Barry.
455
00:46:19,000 --> 00:46:22,000
And this is the Or Noir Laboratory
456
00:46:22,000 --> 00:46:26,000
where they specialise in making
unique bespoke chocolates.
457
00:46:26,000 --> 00:46:28,000
That's what I'm going to do.
458
00:46:32,000 --> 00:46:36,000
It's all going to get very hi tech
from here on in.
459
00:46:38,000 --> 00:46:40,000
Just to show you a bit how it works.
460
00:46:40,000 --> 00:46:44,000
So, here we have all the belt of
chocolate. Er...
461
00:46:44,000 --> 00:46:47,000
The belt of chocolate? Yes,
we call it the belt of chocolate.
462
00:46:47,000 --> 00:46:51,000
Because if you take the globe, all
around it you have a belt from...
463
00:46:51,000 --> 00:46:54,000
This is the Equator, and you have
the two tropics Cancer and Capricorn
464
00:46:54,000 --> 00:46:58,000
and this is where all cocoa grows.
OK?
465
00:46:58,000 --> 00:47:01,000
First, we're going to taste
chocolate.
466
00:47:01,000 --> 00:47:03,000
So, chocolate that was created.
467
00:47:03,000 --> 00:47:05,000
This is pure cocoa paste,
468
00:47:05,000 --> 00:47:07,000
the 100 paste chocolate.
469
00:47:07,000 --> 00:47:08,000
We want your palate.
470
00:47:08,000 --> 00:47:10,000
What is interesting for me is to know
your palate.
471
00:47:10,000 --> 00:47:12,000
We want to work with your
signature taste.
472
00:47:12,000 --> 00:47:14,000
So it will be unique to me?
Yeah.
473
00:47:14,000 --> 00:47:17,000
It would unique
and exclusive in the world.
474
00:47:17,000 --> 00:47:20,000
It will only be in Le Gavroche
that your customers
475
00:47:20,000 --> 00:47:23,000
are going to be able to taste your
flavour. Your OWN flavour.
476
00:47:23,000 --> 00:47:24,000
Yes! Yes!
477
00:47:26,000 --> 00:47:29,000
Before the process begins, Natasha,
along with chocolate-maker Julie,
478
00:47:29,000 --> 00:47:34,000
needs to get some clues as to how
I want my chocolate to taste.
479
00:47:34,000 --> 00:47:39,000
Definitely I want a strong, robust
chocolate flavour
480
00:47:39,000 --> 00:47:42,000
with a good amount of bitterness.
481
00:47:42,000 --> 00:47:44,000
OK.
482
00:47:44,000 --> 00:47:47,000
A hint of acidity.
Just a little bit.
483
00:47:47,000 --> 00:47:48,000
OK.
484
00:47:48,000 --> 00:47:50,000
I do like the idea of a roasted
background,
485
00:47:50,000 --> 00:47:52,000
and the same with
the fruitiness.
486
00:47:52,000 --> 00:47:55,000
I want fruitiness,
but not overpowering. OK.
487
00:48:01,000 --> 00:48:02,000
Based on that profile,
488
00:48:02,000 --> 00:48:05,000
she is now going to offer me
a variety of chocolate to sample.
489
00:48:07,000 --> 00:48:08,000
Thank you.
490
00:48:14,000 --> 00:48:17,000
Like a coconut liqueur.
Yeah. Yeah.
491
00:48:18,000 --> 00:48:20,000
Nutty. Yeah, yeah...
492
00:48:20,000 --> 00:48:22,000
Definitely.
I like the floral note to it.
493
00:48:22,000 --> 00:48:24,000
Coconut cream kind of...
494
00:48:24,000 --> 00:48:26,000
That's it, coconut cream.
495
00:48:26,000 --> 00:48:27,000
Definitely.
Mm...mm...
496
00:48:37,000 --> 00:48:39,000
I like that.
I like that, as well.
497
00:48:43,000 --> 00:48:46,000
And, unlike wine tasting,
we don't spit it out.
498
00:48:48,000 --> 00:48:51,000
Got a nice flavour.
It's well grounded. Exactly that.
499
00:48:51,000 --> 00:48:54,000
But it's lacking in identity.
Yeah. OK. Erm...
500
00:48:54,000 --> 00:48:58,000
Can we go stronger? I think
we could go stronger than that.
501
00:49:01,000 --> 00:49:03,000
Mm. Straightaway that's better.
Oh, yeah.
502
00:49:03,000 --> 00:49:06,000
Got a nice crunch to it.
A nice feel to it.
503
00:49:06,000 --> 00:49:09,000
Mouth-feel is very important, too.
Width.
504
00:49:09,000 --> 00:49:10,000
I like that, yep.
505
00:49:10,000 --> 00:49:14,000
From solid chocolate,
we move to pure cocoa paste.
506
00:49:14,000 --> 00:49:17,000
First, it's just the smell.
507
00:49:19,000 --> 00:49:20,000
Ooph!
508
00:49:26,000 --> 00:49:28,000
Oh, that's unbelievable.
509
00:49:28,000 --> 00:49:29,000
OK. Right.
510
00:49:29,000 --> 00:49:31,000
I need to go back to this one.
511
00:49:31,000 --> 00:49:32,000
Go ahead.
512
00:49:32,000 --> 00:49:35,000
Look at the colour, also.
It's much darker...
513
00:49:43,000 --> 00:49:46,000
This one I found very interesting.
514
00:49:46,000 --> 00:49:50,000
I thought had a bit of mushroomy
flavour, a bit musky... B1. OK.
515
00:49:50,000 --> 00:49:52,000
After the smell, it's time
to taste.
516
00:49:54,000 --> 00:49:58,000
But only in tiny amounts - so
concentrated are the flavours.
517
00:49:58,000 --> 00:50:01,000
It's not easy to taste this.
No.
518
00:50:01,000 --> 00:50:03,000
Without the sugar.
That is NOT easy.
519
00:50:03,000 --> 00:50:06,000
But I really
do like the bitterness of this,
520
00:50:06,000 --> 00:50:08,000
and there's a hint of fruit in
there, as well. OK.
521
00:50:08,000 --> 00:50:10,000
I'm getting good at this.
522
00:50:10,000 --> 00:50:12,000
'Now, I've even got to taste
the bean,
523
00:50:12,000 --> 00:50:13,000
'to compare it to the paste.'
524
00:50:15,000 --> 00:50:16,000
Mm.
525
00:50:16,000 --> 00:50:18,000
You feel the fruit here, no?
You really feel the fruit.
526
00:50:18,000 --> 00:50:21,000
It's fruit. Yep, very fruity.
Very, very fruity.
527
00:50:21,000 --> 00:50:24,000
OK? No, I like that.
I like that a lot.
528
00:50:24,000 --> 00:50:27,000
Very interesting.
Mm...hmm-mm-mm!
529
00:50:27,000 --> 00:50:30,000
Do you want to know where they
come from now? Oh, yes.
530
00:50:30,000 --> 00:50:33,000
So, A1, we are travelling to Cuba.
531
00:50:33,000 --> 00:50:35,000
Cuba! I've never been.
I want to go to Cuba!
532
00:50:37,000 --> 00:50:41,000
So we've Cuba. In Cuba the
plantations are more on this part,
533
00:50:41,000 --> 00:50:43,000
then we have Santo Domingo
534
00:50:43,000 --> 00:50:46,000
and we have a bit of Venezuela.
535
00:50:47,000 --> 00:50:49,000
So, you are an American guy. Wow.
536
00:50:49,000 --> 00:50:50,000
MICHEL WHISTLES
537
00:50:50,000 --> 00:50:53,000
I am sorry, but Asia you don't want.
538
00:50:55,000 --> 00:50:58,000
Natasha and Julie have taken me
on this wonderful taste train
539
00:50:58,000 --> 00:51:00,000
of the chocolate belt.
540
00:51:00,000 --> 00:51:06,000
And it's intriguing because I always
thought I wanted chocolate
541
00:51:06,000 --> 00:51:11,000
that had a certain acidity
and certain notes of bitterness,
542
00:51:11,000 --> 00:51:15,000
but I've actually found my taste
buds wanted something completely
different.
543
00:51:15,000 --> 00:51:17,000
The one thing that I've learnt,
544
00:51:17,000 --> 00:51:19,000
is that chocolate is very,
very complex.
545
00:51:19,000 --> 00:51:22,000
It's not just one taste.
546
00:51:22,000 --> 00:51:24,000
It's extraordinary.
547
00:51:24,000 --> 00:51:30,000
And it's not just taste,
it's also smell and texture.
548
00:51:30,000 --> 00:51:32,000
Julie is going to help us out.
549
00:51:32,000 --> 00:51:34,000
This is the recipe.
550
00:51:37,000 --> 00:51:40,000
We call this the orgue of chocolate.
551
00:51:40,000 --> 00:51:41,000
The what?
552
00:51:41,000 --> 00:51:43,000
The orgue of chocolate.
553
00:51:43,000 --> 00:51:45,000
Like in a church.
554
00:51:45,000 --> 00:51:46,000
Oh, the...the organ?
555
00:51:46,000 --> 00:51:48,000
Yes. The organ of chocolate.
556
00:51:48,000 --> 00:51:53,000
So, A2, can you give me 170g?
557
00:51:53,000 --> 00:51:55,000
170g.
Yeah.
558
00:51:55,000 --> 00:51:59,000
'Having narrowed down the blend
of chocolate used in my recipe,
559
00:51:59,000 --> 00:52:01,000
'we're actually going to make it.'
560
00:52:09,000 --> 00:52:11,000
It smells lovely.
561
00:52:11,000 --> 00:52:12,000
Mmm!
562
00:52:22,000 --> 00:52:25,000
I want it to be a chocolate that
I can use on different desserts
563
00:52:25,000 --> 00:52:29,000
but I also want to be able to offer
to people
564
00:52:29,000 --> 00:52:32,000
a bite of the chocolate
as it is.
565
00:52:32,000 --> 00:52:35,000
Because I think that would be
the true reflection of my palate
566
00:52:35,000 --> 00:52:38,000
and of what I deem as a great
chocolate.
567
00:52:43,000 --> 00:52:45,000
'This is the moment of truth.
568
00:52:45,000 --> 00:52:47,000
'What will my chocolate taste
like?'
569
00:52:47,000 --> 00:52:51,000
It would be better to wait until it
gets back to room temperature
570
00:52:51,000 --> 00:52:53,000
so that the taste is stabilised.
571
00:52:53,000 --> 00:52:56,000
It'll come to temperature
in my mouth.
572
00:52:56,000 --> 00:52:58,000
SHE LAUGHS
573
00:53:03,000 --> 00:53:04,000
Hmm..!
574
00:53:09,000 --> 00:53:10,000
Mmm!
575
00:53:13,000 --> 00:53:16,000
It ticks all of those boxes.
576
00:53:16,000 --> 00:53:17,000
Chocolaty.
577
00:53:17,000 --> 00:53:19,000
Really intense chocolaty.
578
00:53:19,000 --> 00:53:21,000
Mm-hm.
Bitterness, sweetness...
579
00:53:21,000 --> 00:53:23,000
Fruitiness.
580
00:53:23,000 --> 00:53:25,000
It's got character.
581
00:53:25,000 --> 00:53:28,000
It's unlike any other chocolate
that I know of.
582
00:53:28,000 --> 00:53:30,000
It's unique.
583
00:53:34,000 --> 00:53:35,000
This is it.
584
00:53:35,000 --> 00:53:37,000
I finally got it.
585
00:53:37,000 --> 00:53:39,000
My chocolate.
586
00:53:39,000 --> 00:53:40,000
All that hard work,
587
00:53:40,000 --> 00:53:42,000
all that smelling and tasting
588
00:53:42,000 --> 00:53:44,000
and that voyage to find
589
00:53:44,000 --> 00:53:47,000
the kind of chocolate
that I want.
590
00:53:50,000 --> 00:53:52,000
I can smell that aroma.
591
00:53:52,000 --> 00:53:53,000
Here they are.
592
00:53:53,000 --> 00:53:55,000
My little chocolate beans.
593
00:53:56,000 --> 00:53:58,000
Now I'm going to make
a chocolate desert.
594
00:53:58,000 --> 00:54:00,000
Something really special,
595
00:54:00,000 --> 00:54:01,000
something extravagant,
596
00:54:01,000 --> 00:54:03,000
something delicious -
597
00:54:03,000 --> 00:54:04,000
a chocolate souffle.
598
00:54:04,000 --> 00:54:08,000
Now, there are no two sterner
critics
599
00:54:08,000 --> 00:54:10,000
than my wife and daughter.
600
00:54:14,000 --> 00:54:18,000
So you're the first people to have
Michel's signature chocolate.
601
00:54:18,000 --> 00:54:20,000
Yes!
The first one to try this chocolate.
602
00:54:20,000 --> 00:54:22,000
Better be good, uh?
603
00:54:22,000 --> 00:54:25,000
'My daughter Emily is training to be
a professional chef,
604
00:54:25,000 --> 00:54:28,000
'so I expect her to be
particularly hard on me.'
605
00:54:32,000 --> 00:54:34,000
I am making a chocolate souffle.
606
00:54:34,000 --> 00:54:37,000
A lovely rich, dark chocolate sauce.
607
00:54:38,000 --> 00:54:40,000
And some chocolate cookies.
608
00:54:42,000 --> 00:54:46,000
But I want the true flavour of
the chocolate to come through.
609
00:54:46,000 --> 00:54:47,000
So it's not too sweet.
610
00:54:50,000 --> 00:54:51,000
Mm!
611
00:54:53,000 --> 00:54:56,000
It's looking good enough
to jump in headfirst.
612
00:55:10,000 --> 00:55:13,000
They're coated in cocoa powder.
613
00:55:18,000 --> 00:55:21,000
That looks just about right.
614
00:55:21,000 --> 00:55:24,000
That's good enough to eat as it is.
615
00:55:25,000 --> 00:55:28,000
This is indulgent.
Chocolaty...
616
00:55:28,000 --> 00:55:30,000
Mm!
617
00:55:39,000 --> 00:55:43,000
No swear words, so it could be...
could be good.
618
00:55:43,000 --> 00:55:44,000
Or not.
619
00:55:46,000 --> 00:55:49,000
This lovely, rich, dark, bitter
chocolate sauce
620
00:55:49,000 --> 00:55:51,000
is to pour into the souffles
621
00:55:51,000 --> 00:55:56,000
and then you use the biscuits
to dunk into the souffles.
622
00:55:57,000 --> 00:55:59,000
They are going to love this.
623
00:56:04,000 --> 00:56:08,000
In this country, too often we think
of chocolate as just one thing -
624
00:56:08,000 --> 00:56:11,000
a bar or a slab of sugary
milk confectionery.
625
00:56:11,000 --> 00:56:16,000
But on my journey I've discovered
that it's many things.
626
00:56:16,000 --> 00:56:18,000
It's an extremely complex
and sophisticated foodstuff
627
00:56:18,000 --> 00:56:22,000
that can embrace a myriad
of flavours and textures.
628
00:56:22,000 --> 00:56:24,000
It's a bit bitty.
629
00:56:24,000 --> 00:56:26,000
Its history is connected with
the rise and fall of empires,
630
00:56:26,000 --> 00:56:29,000
the lives of monarchs,
631
00:56:29,000 --> 00:56:31,000
and the Industrial Revolution.
632
00:56:31,000 --> 00:56:34,000
And no wonder chocolate has been
associated with romance for
centuries,
633
00:56:34,000 --> 00:56:37,000
what better expression of love
is there
634
00:56:37,000 --> 00:56:39,000
than the gift of chocolate?
635
00:56:41,000 --> 00:56:44,000
Looks good!
Yes, it looks very delicious.
636
00:56:44,000 --> 00:56:47,000
I like the slight wobbliness of it.
637
00:56:47,000 --> 00:56:50,000
Now you need some chocolate sauce
in this.
638
00:56:50,000 --> 00:56:51,000
Yes...
639
00:56:51,000 --> 00:56:53,000
You ready for it?
640
00:56:53,000 --> 00:56:55,000
Mmm!
641
00:56:57,000 --> 00:56:58,000
Yes, please.
642
00:57:00,000 --> 00:57:03,000
Yum! That looks delish.
643
00:57:03,000 --> 00:57:05,000
And a chocolate cookie.
644
00:57:05,000 --> 00:57:06,000
To go with it? Yes.
645
00:57:06,000 --> 00:57:09,000
That's too much chocolate.
No, no, no, no.
646
00:57:09,000 --> 00:57:12,000
Never too much chocolate.
647
00:57:12,000 --> 00:57:13,000
Oh, shall I go first?
648
00:57:13,000 --> 00:57:15,000
Shall I not burn myself?
649
00:57:20,000 --> 00:57:22,000
Mm! Very tasty.
650
00:57:24,000 --> 00:57:25,000
It looks hot.
651
00:57:25,000 --> 00:57:28,000
But it's not too...
Too hot.
652
00:57:29,000 --> 00:57:32,000
Intense in chocolate,
that's for sure.
653
00:57:32,000 --> 00:57:35,000
Not too sweet, which is nice.
654
00:57:35,000 --> 00:57:39,000
It's very intense,
but nice flavour.
655
00:57:39,000 --> 00:57:42,000
Intense chocolaty enough?
Mm. Mm.
656
00:57:42,000 --> 00:57:44,000
Delicious. What about the cookies?
657
00:57:44,000 --> 00:57:45,000
I prefer the souffle.
658
00:57:45,000 --> 00:57:48,000
I'm going to try the cookie
on its own.
659
00:57:50,000 --> 00:57:51,000
That is even more intense.
660
00:57:51,000 --> 00:57:53,000
That's so delicious.
661
00:57:53,000 --> 00:57:55,000
It's a chocolate-lover's dream.
662
00:57:55,000 --> 00:57:57,000
Yeah. No, it's perfect. Mmm...!
663
00:57:59,000 --> 00:58:00,000
So is this good enough?
664
00:58:00,000 --> 00:58:02,000
Definitely good enough, Chef!
665
00:58:02,000 --> 00:58:04,000
Was it worth my trip...
666
00:58:04,000 --> 00:58:08,000
to find the best possible chocolate?
667
00:58:08,000 --> 00:58:10,000
Definitely worth it. For sure.
668
00:58:10,000 --> 00:58:11,000
Oh.
669
00:58:11,000 --> 00:58:13,000
Mmm!
670
00:58:13,000 --> 00:58:14,000
This is MY chocolate.
671
00:58:14,000 --> 00:58:16,000
My very own mix of chocolate.
672
00:58:16,000 --> 00:58:18,000
Good choice.
673
00:58:18,000 --> 00:58:20,000
I'm really pleased with it.
674
00:58:20,000 --> 00:58:22,000
Are you proud of yourself?
675
00:58:22,000 --> 00:58:24,000
Yeah, I am!
Well done, Dad. I am.
676
00:58:24,000 --> 00:58:26,000
So you should be, darling.
53938
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