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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:34:07,030 --> 00:34:10,870 and warm, dry summers wouldn't work for wine. 2 00:33:14,440 --> 00:33:20,520 a single alpaca produces $400 worth of high-quality fleece. 3 00:33:20,550 --> 00:33:23,450 renewable resource. they're the perfect 4 00:33:26,050 --> 00:33:31,130 nearby, another imported species is thriving. 5 00:33:31,160 --> 00:33:35,560 these are the dundee hills, home to rich, red soils 6 00:33:35,600 --> 00:33:40,130 that have proved to be invaluable to winemakers. 7 00:33:40,170 --> 00:33:43,340 the rich flavor and complexity of willamette grapes 8 00:33:43,370 --> 00:33:47,340 is due to a distinctive mix of slope, soil and climate 9 00:33:47,380 --> 00:33:52,410 that impart a sense of place deep within the wine. 10 00:33:52,450 --> 00:33:56,880 in 1965, when pioneering young winemaker david lett 11 00:33:56,920 --> 00:33:59,250 came to the dundee hills from california 12 00:33:59,290 --> 00:34:01,590 with 3,000 starter vines, 13 00:34:01,620 --> 00:34:04,690 many were convinced he was crazy. 14 00:34:04,730 --> 00:34:06,990 cool, wet winters they thought oregon's 15 00:33:11,340 --> 00:33:14,410 eat a tenth of what a horse does, and each year, 16 00:34:10,900 --> 00:34:15,540 but when his pinot wines took top honors in france in 1979, 17 00:34:15,570 --> 00:34:17,570 connoisseurs were forced to admit 18 00:34:17,610 --> 00:34:22,210 that oregon was a superior setting for growing wine. 19 00:34:22,240 --> 00:34:25,150 in the number of vineyards here, and it's led to an explosion 20 00:34:25,180 --> 00:34:30,720 from just five in the 1960s to more than 300 today. 21 00:34:30,750 --> 00:34:33,620 this vineyard covers more than 1,000 acres, 22 00:34:33,650 --> 00:34:36,720 growing certified organic grapes. 23 00:34:36,760 --> 00:34:41,500 clearly, wine does just fine in oregon. 24 00:34:41,530 --> 00:34:44,630 but not all industries here are so popular. 25 00:34:44,670 --> 00:34:46,630 this giant pulp mill lies near the banks 26 00:34:46,670 --> 00:34:48,740 of the willamette river. 27 00:34:48,770 --> 00:34:51,640 huge amounts of fresh water and chemicals are needed 28 00:32:27,260 --> 00:32:29,300 to her eighth child, 29 00:31:39,150 --> 00:31:43,650 trail pioneers were after. it wasn't timber that the oregon 30 00:31:43,680 --> 00:31:46,950 their promised land was a fertile river valley 31 00:31:46,990 --> 00:31:48,720 called the willamette. 32 00:31:48,760 --> 00:31:54,630 it stretches from portland, south to eugene and beyond. 33 00:31:54,660 --> 00:31:58,600 it lies between the cascades to the east, 34 00:31:58,630 --> 00:32:02,340 and the pacific ocean to the west. 35 00:32:02,370 --> 00:32:06,010 the willamette is the most populated area of oregon. 36 00:32:06,040 --> 00:32:09,740 for centuries, its fertile land has been luring thousands 37 00:32:09,780 --> 00:32:13,110 with the promise of prosperity. 38 00:32:13,150 --> 00:32:17,850 on september 13, 1853, after traveling for five months 39 00:32:17,890 --> 00:32:21,460 and 2,000 miles, the knight family finally found 40 00:32:21,490 --> 00:32:24,360 a suitable spot for a farm. 41 00:32:24,390 --> 00:32:27,230 four days later, after amelia knight had given birth 42 00:34:51,670 --> 00:34:54,840 to turn wood chips into paper. 43 00:32:29,330 --> 00:32:31,300 her husband traded their team of oxen 44 00:32:31,330 --> 00:32:34,340 for "a half-acre planted with potatoes 45 00:32:34,370 --> 00:32:37,940 and a small log cabin with no windows." 46 00:32:40,010 --> 00:32:43,240 farmers and ranchers continue to tap this fertile valley 47 00:32:43,280 --> 00:32:47,150 with all kinds of new crops and creatures. 48 00:32:48,820 --> 00:32:53,490 it seemed like a long shot in 1990 when the campbell family 49 00:32:53,520 --> 00:32:55,590 decided to experiment with raising 50 00:32:55,620 --> 00:32:58,460 south american alpaca here. 51 00:32:58,490 --> 00:33:02,060 but today, their ranch, called "alpacas of oregon," 52 00:33:02,100 --> 00:33:05,000 is one of ten of its kind in the area. 53 00:33:05,030 --> 00:33:08,800 one reason alpacas are preferred by today's eco-ranchers 54 00:33:08,840 --> 00:33:11,310 highly resistant to disease, is that they're 55 00:37:00,200 --> 00:37:05,510 lance armstrong, mia hamm, and john mcenroe. 56 00:36:18,990 --> 00:36:22,230 nike founders bill bowerman and phil knight 57 00:36:22,260 --> 00:36:25,100 started with an order for 300 shoes 58 00:36:25,130 --> 00:36:28,400 that they sold from the trunk of a plymouth valiant. 59 00:36:28,440 --> 00:36:32,910 the swoosh and the air jordans came later. 60 00:36:32,940 --> 00:36:36,340 nike shoes are now manufactured overseas, 61 00:36:36,380 --> 00:36:39,450 headquarters in beaverton, but here at the company's 62 00:36:39,480 --> 00:36:43,420 produce better runners. they've been trying to 63 00:36:43,450 --> 00:36:45,820 top athletes have been invited to train here 64 00:36:45,850 --> 00:36:48,460 and improve their skills in cutting-edge labs 65 00:36:48,490 --> 00:36:52,830 that can simulate high-altitude conditions. 66 00:36:52,860 --> 00:36:55,160 the campus' 17 buildings 67 00:36:55,200 --> 00:36:58,470 are named for sports legends the company has sponsored, 68 00:36:58,500 --> 00:37:00,170 including michael jordan, 69 00:36:15,190 --> 00:36:18,960 the most successful sportswear company of all time. 70 00:37:05,540 --> 00:37:09,180 the six-acre lake in the middle is home to migratory ducks, 71 00:37:09,210 --> 00:37:11,350 since nike was started and that's appropriate, 72 00:37:11,380 --> 00:37:14,750 by a couple of ducks from the university of oregon. 73 00:37:20,190 --> 00:37:23,890 when oregon finally became a state in 1859, 74 00:37:23,920 --> 00:37:27,330 the town of salem, which lies in the heart of the willamette, 75 00:37:27,360 --> 00:37:30,560 was a logical choice for its capital. 76 00:37:30,600 --> 00:37:33,400 its state house was built in 1938, 77 00:37:33,430 --> 00:37:35,270 reflecting the art deco style 78 00:37:35,300 --> 00:37:39,340 similar to rockefeller center in new york city. 79 00:37:39,370 --> 00:37:41,540 rather than a traditional dome, 80 00:37:41,580 --> 00:37:44,010 the architects, trowbridge and livingston, 81 00:37:44,040 --> 00:37:47,250 designed a rotunda 160 feet high. 82 00:35:36,050 --> 00:35:39,620 in the national lampoon movie animal house. 83 00:34:54,880 --> 00:34:57,210 but toxic waste from plants like this one 84 00:34:57,240 --> 00:34:59,480 has been seeping back into the river 85 00:34:59,510 --> 00:35:03,120 and causing genetic defects in salmon and other fish. 86 00:35:05,290 --> 00:35:06,920 the willamette valley has been 87 00:35:06,950 --> 00:35:10,060 agricultural heartland oregon's industrial and 88 00:35:10,090 --> 00:35:11,830 ever since it was settled. 89 00:35:13,530 --> 00:35:15,960 the university of oregon, it's also home to 90 00:35:16,000 --> 00:35:21,400 which began offering classes near the city of eugene in 1872. 91 00:35:21,440 --> 00:35:23,800 locals call it the u of o. 92 00:35:23,840 --> 00:35:28,640 its cheer is "go ducks," after its beloved web-footed mascot. 93 00:35:30,140 --> 00:35:33,680 fame can be found across campus one of the u of o's claims to 94 00:35:33,710 --> 00:35:36,020 at the omega fraternity, which was featured 95 00:31:34,140 --> 00:31:39,110 once harvested, the timber is hauled to mills for processing. 96 00:35:39,650 --> 00:35:43,190 sadly, there are no longer toga parties at delta house-- 97 00:35:43,220 --> 00:35:45,890 it was torn down in 1986. 98 00:35:45,930 --> 00:35:48,830 but the campus still enjoys a reputation for a liberal, 99 00:35:48,860 --> 00:35:52,830 question-authority approach to higher education. 100 00:35:52,870 --> 00:35:55,740 the campus is also home to hayward field, 101 00:35:55,770 --> 00:35:58,870 nicknamed "track town, usa." 102 00:35:58,910 --> 00:36:01,540 track and field stars, it's produced many olympic 103 00:36:01,580 --> 00:36:05,110 remarkable steve prefontaine, including oregon's own 104 00:36:05,150 --> 00:36:08,250 who set 15 american records. 105 00:36:08,280 --> 00:36:11,090 and it was at hayward in 1964 106 00:36:11,120 --> 00:36:13,790 that a talented college runner and his coach 107 00:36:13,820 --> 00:36:15,160 had the idea that launched 108 00:27:38,440 --> 00:27:41,340 know how to turn the kite especially if the surfer doesn't 109 00:26:51,190 --> 00:26:53,460 when it opened in 1916, 110 00:26:53,500 --> 00:26:58,130 the illustrated london news called it "the king of roads." 111 00:27:00,970 --> 00:27:03,640 the high walls that tower above this highway 112 00:27:03,670 --> 00:27:07,110 help funnel powerful winds through the gorge. 113 00:27:07,210 --> 00:27:09,980 are luring kite surfers and it's these winds that 114 00:27:10,010 --> 00:27:13,010 to the columbia river from around the world 115 00:27:13,050 --> 00:27:14,880 to catch its waves. 116 00:27:16,920 --> 00:27:19,790 regular surfers rely on the power of waves. 117 00:27:19,820 --> 00:27:23,090 but these adrenaline junkies are tethered to kites 118 00:27:23,120 --> 00:27:26,490 and fly with the wind. 119 00:27:26,530 --> 00:27:28,460 speed and direction a kite surfer's 120 00:27:28,500 --> 00:27:32,570 all depend on how he or she controls the kite. 121 00:27:32,600 --> 00:27:38,410 in strong winds like these, it can be a dangerously fast sport, 122 00:26:47,590 --> 00:26:51,160 hugging every twist and turn. 123 00:27:41,380 --> 00:27:43,950 against the wind to slow down. 124 00:27:46,080 --> 00:27:49,950 and giant geological events it's taken millions of years 125 00:27:49,980 --> 00:27:52,990 to create the conditions that make the columbia river 126 00:27:53,020 --> 00:27:54,920 perfect for this sport. 127 00:27:59,160 --> 00:28:03,360 starting 17 million years ago, a series of lava flows 128 00:28:03,400 --> 00:28:07,900 pushed through here, cooling to form layers of basalt. 129 00:28:07,940 --> 00:28:11,010 much later, the columbia river started to carve its way 130 00:28:11,040 --> 00:28:15,840 through those layers, creating walls hundreds of feet high. 131 00:28:15,880 --> 00:28:19,880 from these rock walls, 77 waterfalls cascade 132 00:28:19,910 --> 00:28:23,250 into the gorge on the oregon side alone. 133 00:28:23,280 --> 00:28:28,390 but the granddaddy of them all is multnomah falls. 134 00:28:28,420 --> 00:28:32,330 it drops a total of 620 feet. 135 00:25:59,970 --> 00:26:03,480 but the best is chinook, or king salmon. 136 00:25:19,170 --> 00:25:22,400 to the columbia basin tribes. 137 00:25:22,500 --> 00:25:26,040 this morning, fishers are pulling up their long gillnets, 138 00:25:26,070 --> 00:25:30,280 which have filled with hundreds of chinook salmon overnight. 139 00:25:30,310 --> 00:25:32,910 the roots of their expertise are in the fishing practices 140 00:25:32,980 --> 00:25:36,620 that were established long before europeans arrived. 141 00:25:36,650 --> 00:25:40,560 traditionally, men have worked the gillnet lines. 142 00:25:40,590 --> 00:25:42,590 but these days, men with no sons 143 00:25:42,620 --> 00:25:45,060 often teach their daughters to fish. 144 00:25:47,000 --> 00:25:48,860 native americans have the exclusive 145 00:25:48,900 --> 00:25:52,670 commercial fishing rights on this stretch of river. 146 00:25:52,700 --> 00:25:56,400 and not all the salmon they catch are equal. 147 00:25:56,440 --> 00:25:59,940 coho, sockeye, chum are all salmon, 148 00:28:32,430 --> 00:28:33,900 to witness it's the perfect place 149 00:26:04,810 --> 00:26:07,820 and firm, red flesh, it's prized for its size 150 00:26:07,850 --> 00:26:10,750 the oregon state fish. and it's also 151 00:26:13,290 --> 00:26:16,160 to view this majestic river there's no better place 152 00:26:16,190 --> 00:26:17,930 than from here... 153 00:26:19,760 --> 00:26:21,500 vista point. 154 00:26:25,070 --> 00:26:26,730 one engineer called it 155 00:26:26,770 --> 00:26:29,400 "an observatory from which the columbia could be viewed 156 00:26:29,440 --> 00:26:32,370 in silent communion with the infinite." 157 00:26:33,740 --> 00:26:36,610 vista point was built in 1916, 158 00:26:36,640 --> 00:26:39,380 as part of the columbia river highway project-- 159 00:26:39,410 --> 00:26:42,850 the first planned scenic highway in the united states. 160 00:26:44,890 --> 00:26:47,560 it travels for 40 miles along the river, 161 00:30:50,700 --> 00:30:54,140 "we traveled over the worst road that was ever made, 162 00:30:05,050 --> 00:30:07,220 are the cascade mountains-- 163 00:30:07,260 --> 00:30:11,090 jagged monuments to the power of molten lava. 164 00:30:13,460 --> 00:30:15,700 range of peaks they're part of a stunning 165 00:30:15,730 --> 00:30:18,600 that extends from canada to california. 166 00:30:20,200 --> 00:30:22,800 many are easily recognized from afar. 167 00:30:22,840 --> 00:30:25,740 among them, the three sisters. 168 00:30:25,770 --> 00:30:29,910 and the sharpest peak of them all--mount thielsen. 169 00:30:29,940 --> 00:30:32,550 rising more than 9,000 feet, 170 00:30:32,580 --> 00:30:35,650 lightning rod of the cascades. it's been called the 171 00:30:37,390 --> 00:30:41,690 150 years ago, these mountains were the last great hurdle 172 00:30:41,720 --> 00:30:45,430 on their journey west. for oregon's early pioneers 173 00:30:45,460 --> 00:30:48,930 one, amelia knight, described this leg of the trip 174 00:30:48,960 --> 00:30:50,670 in her diary: 175 00:30:02,120 --> 00:30:05,020 rising high above oregon's western valleys 176 00:30:54,170 --> 00:30:58,040 winding round stumps, logs and fallen trees. 177 00:30:58,070 --> 00:31:00,170 the handsomest timber in the world 178 00:31:00,210 --> 00:31:03,810 must be here in these cascade mountains." 179 00:31:03,850 --> 00:31:06,050 logging prospectors agreed. 180 00:31:06,080 --> 00:31:10,890 the massive conifers were unlike anything they'd seen back east. 181 00:31:10,920 --> 00:31:13,150 the first logging operations in oregon were set up 182 00:31:13,190 --> 00:31:17,390 in the mid 19th century, but it wasn't until 1938 183 00:31:17,430 --> 00:31:20,090 that the state surpassed its neighbor washington 184 00:31:20,130 --> 00:31:22,760 top timber producer, as the nation's 185 00:31:22,800 --> 00:31:25,130 a position it holds to this day. 186 00:31:26,570 --> 00:31:29,940 ancient forests of douglas fir and sitka spruce 187 00:31:29,970 --> 00:31:34,110 have been replaced by a patchwork of clear-cuts. 188 00:29:14,070 --> 00:29:16,500 down the columbia river. 189 00:28:33,930 --> 00:28:36,400 oregon's geological history. 190 00:28:36,430 --> 00:28:38,730 five different lava flows are exposed 191 00:28:38,770 --> 00:28:41,840 in the face of the falls. 192 00:28:41,870 --> 00:28:44,210 many visitors travel the columbia river highway 193 00:28:44,310 --> 00:28:47,580 just to catch a glimpse of this amazing site. 194 00:28:50,040 --> 00:28:53,650 volcanic events may have helped create this gorge, 195 00:28:53,680 --> 00:28:55,550 but during the last ice age, 196 00:28:55,720 --> 00:29:00,190 it was inundated by a series of unimaginable torrents-- 197 00:29:00,220 --> 00:29:04,790 the mother of all gushers, known as the missoula floods. 198 00:29:06,190 --> 00:29:08,560 a massive glacial lake in montana 199 00:29:08,600 --> 00:29:10,430 broke through a dam of ice, 200 00:29:10,600 --> 00:29:14,040 and sent a wall of water in biblical proportions 201 00:37:48,580 --> 00:37:51,350 looking like a paint can-- it's been criticized as 202 00:29:16,600 --> 00:29:21,040 geologists think it filled the entire gorge to overflowing, 203 00:29:21,080 --> 00:29:23,640 and it kept going. 204 00:29:23,750 --> 00:29:26,310 toward the end of its 1,000-mile journey, 205 00:29:26,350 --> 00:29:30,620 the wall of water spread out into the willamette valley, 206 00:29:30,650 --> 00:29:32,320 dumping not only water, 207 00:29:32,350 --> 00:29:36,060 but tens of millions of tons of rich sediment. 208 00:29:37,630 --> 00:29:40,390 farmers working these oregon fields today 209 00:29:40,560 --> 00:29:45,000 are actually plowing montana soil. 210 00:29:45,030 --> 00:29:47,640 reports of this fertile land lured settlers 211 00:29:47,670 --> 00:29:50,710 as far back as the early 19th century. 212 00:29:50,740 --> 00:29:54,840 but for many, getting here meant having to cross on foot 213 00:29:54,880 --> 00:29:58,880 one of the greatest mountain ranges in america. 214 00:46:26,270 --> 00:46:29,170 as if suddenly brought before some superior being 215 00:45:44,660 --> 00:45:48,260 greatest promoters. and one of the city's 216 00:45:48,300 --> 00:45:51,170 pittock was also an avid outdoorsman, 217 00:45:51,200 --> 00:45:52,730 and was in the first party to climb 218 00:45:52,770 --> 00:45:57,640 most iconic mountain. oregon's highest and 219 00:45:57,670 --> 00:46:01,110 it lies 50 miles from downtown portland, but its presence 220 00:46:01,140 --> 00:46:05,950 in the lives and minds of many oregonians is profound-- 221 00:46:05,980 --> 00:46:08,220 mount hood. 222 00:46:08,250 --> 00:46:11,150 this monolith looms over the columbia river gorge 223 00:46:11,180 --> 00:46:15,490 and all the rest of oregon's cascade peaks. 224 00:46:15,520 --> 00:46:17,460 after first setting eyes on the mountain, 225 00:46:17,490 --> 00:46:20,390 the naturalist john muir wrote, 226 00:46:20,430 --> 00:46:23,400 "there stood mount hood in all the glory. 227 00:46:23,430 --> 00:46:26,230 and so impressive that one was overawed, 228 00:45:42,360 --> 00:45:44,630 publisher of the oregonian newspaper, 229 00:46:29,200 --> 00:46:31,670 newly arrived from the sky." 230 00:46:33,670 --> 00:46:36,740 the mountain was named for british admiral samuel hood 231 00:46:36,780 --> 00:46:39,210 in 1792. 232 00:46:39,250 --> 00:46:40,850 manage to conquer but climbers didn't 233 00:46:40,880 --> 00:46:44,220 its nearly vertical upper slopes to reach the summit 234 00:46:44,250 --> 00:46:47,450 for another 50 years. 235 00:46:47,490 --> 00:46:51,560 about 10,000 people attempt to climb mount hood each year. 236 00:46:51,590 --> 00:46:55,830 130 have died trying. 237 00:46:55,860 --> 00:46:59,930 eruption for close to 200 years, the mountain hasn't had a major 238 00:46:59,970 --> 00:47:02,500 and scientists say there's a slim chance 239 00:47:02,540 --> 00:47:05,640 it will awaken over the next few decades. 240 00:47:07,340 --> 00:47:10,880 mount hood is just one of the 16 volcanic peaks 241 00:44:54,370 --> 00:44:57,040 portland the nickname, an event that's earned 242 00:44:09,130 --> 00:44:11,730 diverted federal funds designated for a freeway 243 00:44:11,770 --> 00:44:14,530 to build a light rail called max-- 244 00:44:14,570 --> 00:44:17,400 metropolitan area express. 245 00:44:17,440 --> 00:44:20,970 use of public transportation today, the portland area's 246 00:44:21,010 --> 00:44:24,280 is one of the highest in the nation. 247 00:44:24,310 --> 00:44:29,280 and high above street level, rooftop gardens abound. 248 00:44:29,320 --> 00:44:33,690 some buildings are even powered by their own windmills. 249 00:44:33,720 --> 00:44:37,690 portland quite like this one. but there's no green space in 250 00:44:39,360 --> 00:44:41,700 the international rose test garden 251 00:44:41,730 --> 00:44:43,930 in the hills above downtown 252 00:44:43,960 --> 00:44:48,340 is an experimental garden for growing hybrid varieties. 253 00:44:48,370 --> 00:44:51,910 more than 400 types of roses are grown here. 254 00:44:51,940 --> 00:44:54,340 the annual rose festival, it's the site of 255 00:47:10,910 --> 00:47:13,410 that lie in oregon's cascades. 256 00:44:57,080 --> 00:44:59,010 "the city of roses." 257 00:45:00,780 --> 00:45:04,080 the garden is a legacy of georgiana burton pittock, 258 00:45:04,120 --> 00:45:07,450 whose love of roses led her to host an annual garden party 259 00:45:07,550 --> 00:45:10,790 for her friends to show off their flowers. 260 00:45:10,820 --> 00:45:14,130 once a year, rose experts come here from around the world 261 00:45:14,160 --> 00:45:19,330 to bestow the city's annual award for portland's best rose. 262 00:45:20,870 --> 00:45:23,470 georgiana and her husband henry pittock 263 00:45:23,500 --> 00:45:26,970 lived just up the hill in this mansion. 264 00:45:27,010 --> 00:45:31,710 both were pioneers who came here via the oregon trail. 265 00:45:31,750 --> 00:45:35,050 when henry pittock landed in portland in 1852, 266 00:45:35,080 --> 00:45:38,790 he was 17 years old and penniless. 267 00:45:38,820 --> 00:45:42,320 50 years later, he was a wealthy businessman, 268 00:49:29,580 --> 00:49:32,550 efforts that helped pave the way for president theodore roosevelt 269 00:48:38,060 --> 00:48:41,770 and to visit that lake and to go down to the water." 270 00:48:43,240 --> 00:48:46,240 at first, the lake was believed to be bottomless, 271 00:48:46,270 --> 00:48:49,680 and that its walls were too steep to climb down. 272 00:48:49,710 --> 00:48:56,020 of the lake is 1,943 feet, it's now known that the depth 273 00:48:56,050 --> 00:48:59,420 making it the deepest lake in america. 274 00:48:59,450 --> 00:49:03,690 it sits in a volcanic basin created 7,700 years ago, 275 00:49:03,720 --> 00:49:06,030 when the top of the mount mazama volcano 276 00:49:06,060 --> 00:49:09,100 collapsed after erupting. 277 00:49:09,130 --> 00:49:13,630 on august 15, 1885, william steel managed to get 278 00:49:13,670 --> 00:49:17,370 a small canoe out on the lake, and named the cinder cone 279 00:49:17,400 --> 00:49:23,010 that rises some 767 feet above the surface wizard island, 280 00:49:23,040 --> 00:49:26,380 thinking it looked like a wizard's hat. 281 00:49:26,410 --> 00:49:29,550 steel made protecting the lake his life's work, 282 00:48:34,930 --> 00:48:38,030 "and then and there i determined to go to oregon 283 00:49:32,590 --> 00:49:37,560 to establish the site as a national park in 1902. 284 00:49:37,590 --> 00:49:39,860 steel was made the park's commissioner, 285 00:49:39,890 --> 00:49:44,360 a position he held up until the day he died in 1932. 286 00:49:44,400 --> 00:49:48,900 as the father of crater lake. he's been known ever since 287 00:49:53,970 --> 00:49:58,450 conservationists, adventurers, pioneers-- 288 00:49:58,480 --> 00:50:02,580 these are the people who forged the oregon story. 289 00:50:02,620 --> 00:50:07,150 the native american tribes who fish its great river, 290 00:50:07,190 --> 00:50:09,990 the hope-filled settlers who crossed its peaks 291 00:50:10,020 --> 00:50:13,760 fertile plains, to reach willamette's 292 00:50:13,790 --> 00:50:18,800 the hardworking farmers who still till its soil, 293 00:50:18,830 --> 00:50:21,170 and the thrill seekers 294 00:50:21,200 --> 00:51:00,140 of adventure alive. who keep oregon's spirit 295 00:47:50,050 --> 00:47:54,090 suitable only for shaman and chiefs. 296 00:47:13,450 --> 00:47:14,980 these peaks stretch south 297 00:47:15,020 --> 00:47:18,250 with washington. from oregon's northern border 298 00:47:18,290 --> 00:47:20,250 five of these 16 mountains 299 00:47:20,290 --> 00:47:24,460 remain potentially active volcanoes, including mount hood, 300 00:47:24,490 --> 00:47:27,590 mount jefferson, the three sisters, 301 00:47:27,630 --> 00:47:30,600 and the newbury crater. 302 00:47:30,630 --> 00:47:33,600 southernmost volcanic peak but oregon's fifth and 303 00:47:33,630 --> 00:47:36,440 its towering heights, isn't known for 304 00:47:36,470 --> 00:47:39,740 but rather its awe-inspiring depths. 305 00:47:41,210 --> 00:47:44,680 this is crater lake. 306 00:47:44,710 --> 00:47:47,450 for thousands of years, the region's native peoples 307 00:47:47,480 --> 00:47:50,020 regarded this place with reverence, 308 00:44:06,660 --> 00:44:09,100 when a coalition of young urban planners 309 00:47:54,120 --> 00:47:57,220 the klamath indians called it tum-sum-ne, 310 00:47:57,260 --> 00:48:00,690 "mountain with the top cut off," indicating a familiarity 311 00:48:00,730 --> 00:48:04,200 with the catastrophic eruption that had taken place here. 312 00:48:05,600 --> 00:48:08,200 in the mid 1800s, gold prospectors 313 00:48:08,240 --> 00:48:11,240 and american explorers found their way here 314 00:48:11,270 --> 00:48:14,310 and got a look over the crater's rim. 315 00:48:14,340 --> 00:48:18,080 that the great sunken lake but it wasn't until the 1870s 316 00:48:18,110 --> 00:48:23,680 made national news which changed the course of one man's life. 317 00:48:23,720 --> 00:48:27,490 william steel was just 15 and living in ohio 318 00:48:27,520 --> 00:48:28,860 when he read about crater lake 319 00:48:28,890 --> 00:48:31,690 in a newspaper in which his lunch was wrapped. 320 00:48:31,730 --> 00:48:34,900 he later wrote of the hold the story had on him, 321 00:40:18,770 --> 00:40:20,800 comes here to portland to be shipped out 322 00:39:28,220 --> 00:39:33,250 are now mechanized, and the gains in yield remarkable. 323 00:39:33,290 --> 00:39:39,760 in 1850, oregon farms produced some 280,000 bushels of wheat. 324 00:39:39,790 --> 00:39:43,900 150 years later, with machines doing the plowing, planting, 325 00:39:43,930 --> 00:39:45,570 harvesting, and threshing, 326 00:39:45,600 --> 00:39:49,870 the annual yield is over 50 million bushels-- 327 00:39:49,900 --> 00:39:53,940 enough to make more than two billion loaves of bread. 328 00:39:53,970 --> 00:39:56,010 and most of it is bound for portland 329 00:39:56,040 --> 00:39:58,910 and international markets beyond. 330 00:39:58,950 --> 00:40:03,820 portland harbor is the largest wheat export hub in the u.s. 331 00:40:03,850 --> 00:40:06,390 the massive holds of an ocean-going bulk carrier 332 00:40:06,420 --> 00:40:10,420 can accommodate some 50,000 tons of soft white wheat, 333 00:40:10,460 --> 00:40:15,400 just the kind japan needs to make noodles and crackers. 334 00:40:15,430 --> 00:40:18,730 today, wheat produced all across the western u.s. 335 00:39:25,480 --> 00:39:28,180 most of the backbreaking jobs of growing wheat 336 00:40:20,830 --> 00:40:24,300 to the countries of the pacific rim. 337 00:40:24,340 --> 00:40:27,840 to handle the enormous flow, a rapid-handling grain elevator 338 00:40:27,880 --> 00:40:32,280 was built along 40 acres of the port at terminal 5. 339 00:40:32,310 --> 00:40:34,980 grain is brought here by trains, 340 00:40:35,020 --> 00:40:37,380 cleaned and funneled into loading spouts, 341 00:40:37,420 --> 00:40:42,460 filling another ship with nearly two million bushels of wheat. 342 00:40:42,490 --> 00:40:45,090 while wheat is departing from portland, 343 00:40:45,130 --> 00:40:49,000 quite a different product is entering. 344 00:40:49,030 --> 00:40:51,060 if you drive a japanese car, 345 00:40:51,100 --> 00:40:54,700 chances are its odometer began spinning here. 346 00:40:54,740 --> 00:40:58,870 the most automobiles of any port portland's terminal 4 handles 347 00:40:58,910 --> 00:41:02,980 and ranks third nationally, on north america's west coast, 348 00:38:41,240 --> 00:38:43,700 however, the rain here often falls 349 00:37:51,390 --> 00:37:52,950 when it's noticed at all-- 350 00:37:52,990 --> 00:37:56,260 underneath the crowning 22-foot gilded statue 351 00:37:56,290 --> 00:38:00,260 earliest settlers. representing the state's 352 00:38:00,290 --> 00:38:04,730 this anonymous oregon pioneer holds an axe in one hand, 353 00:38:04,770 --> 00:38:08,570 a tarp for shelter in the other, and he's alone. 354 00:38:08,600 --> 00:38:13,370 of course, most of the oregon trail pioneers were not. 355 00:38:13,410 --> 00:38:16,210 they included families like that of amelia knight, 356 00:38:16,240 --> 00:38:18,550 and neighbors who banded together 357 00:38:18,580 --> 00:38:22,550 to survive their harsh life in this new land. 358 00:38:29,660 --> 00:38:34,530 many today associate the pacific northwest with fog and rain. 359 00:38:34,560 --> 00:38:38,330 but compared to other states, rainfall in western oregon 360 00:38:38,370 --> 00:38:41,200 is just about average for the u.s. 361 00:41:03,010 --> 00:41:07,410 conveying more than 240,000 cars in a year. 362 00:38:43,740 --> 00:38:48,010 more gently than elsewhere, and for longer periods, 363 00:38:48,040 --> 00:38:52,510 which means that it can feel more rainy than it actually is. 364 00:38:52,550 --> 00:38:54,480 the cascades help hold this moisture 365 00:38:54,520 --> 00:38:56,250 in the willamette valley, 366 00:38:56,280 --> 00:38:58,750 which has been good for oregon's farmers. 367 00:39:00,090 --> 00:39:02,220 when white settlers arrived here, 368 00:39:02,260 --> 00:39:05,590 native americans had already started clearing it of trees 369 00:39:05,630 --> 00:39:08,460 to make it easier to hunt animals for food. 370 00:39:10,400 --> 00:39:13,800 but the settlers used the cleared land to plant wheat, 371 00:39:13,830 --> 00:39:16,700 which is still grown in great volume today. 372 00:39:18,470 --> 00:39:21,510 heavy tractors have long since replaced the oxen and horses 373 00:39:21,540 --> 00:39:23,940 used by 19th century farmers. 374 00:43:15,740 --> 00:43:20,550 requiring counterweights totaling nine million pounds. 375 00:42:30,900 --> 00:42:33,900 on one side of the river was portland itself, 376 00:42:33,930 --> 00:42:36,900 and on the other side, the communities of albina 377 00:42:36,940 --> 00:42:39,370 and east portland. 378 00:42:39,410 --> 00:42:41,510 before portland could compete with seattle 379 00:42:41,540 --> 00:42:46,480 as a regional power, it had to find a way to unite itself. 380 00:42:46,510 --> 00:42:51,850 in 1887, a drawbridge was constructed at morrison street, 381 00:42:51,890 --> 00:42:55,090 the first of portland's bridges. 382 00:42:55,120 --> 00:42:57,760 a year later, the union pacific railroad 383 00:42:57,790 --> 00:43:01,800 built the first steel bridge on the entire pacific coast. 384 00:43:03,760 --> 00:43:07,800 the original bridge was replaced with this one in 1912. 385 00:43:07,840 --> 00:43:10,170 double-lift bridge it's a double-decker, 386 00:43:10,200 --> 00:43:13,170 that can be raised to a height of 163 feet 387 00:43:13,210 --> 00:43:15,710 for river traffic to pass underneath, 388 00:42:26,590 --> 00:42:30,860 actually, it was still three separate towns. 389 00:43:20,580 --> 00:43:22,980 it carries cars and light rail above, 390 00:43:23,020 --> 00:43:25,890 and trains, pedestrians and bikes below. 391 00:43:28,020 --> 00:43:31,630 by the early 1900s, the advent of structural steel 392 00:43:31,660 --> 00:43:34,460 enabled engineers to build longer, higher, 393 00:43:34,500 --> 00:43:37,670 and lighter spans across rivers. 394 00:43:37,700 --> 00:43:39,070 thanks in part to that, 395 00:43:39,100 --> 00:43:43,670 portland became a single city united by bridges. 396 00:43:47,540 --> 00:43:50,040 today, these bridges are popular commuting routes 397 00:43:50,080 --> 00:43:54,820 for many of the portland metro area's two million residents. 398 00:43:54,850 --> 00:43:58,950 with any on the west coast, the city's downtown competes 399 00:43:58,990 --> 00:44:02,920 the greenest cities in america. and it's known as one of 400 00:44:04,460 --> 00:44:06,630 that started in the 1970s, 401 00:41:41,380 --> 00:41:43,890 to corrosive, salty ocean air. 402 00:41:07,450 --> 00:41:10,650 the first load of cars to portland was in 1956-- 403 00:41:10,680 --> 00:41:13,250 a shipment of volkswagen beetles. 404 00:41:13,290 --> 00:41:18,430 a toyota, scion or lexus. today, it's more likely to be 405 00:41:18,460 --> 00:41:20,430 three quarters of the cars arriving here 406 00:41:20,460 --> 00:41:21,830 are bound for dealerships 407 00:41:21,860 --> 00:41:25,700 in states outside of the pacific northwest. 408 00:41:25,730 --> 00:41:28,540 but it begs the question, why would car companies 409 00:41:28,600 --> 00:41:31,540 choose a port more than 100 miles from the ocean 410 00:41:31,570 --> 00:41:34,210 to off-load their vehicles? 411 00:41:34,240 --> 00:41:35,380 the answer? 412 00:41:35,410 --> 00:41:37,380 salt. 413 00:41:37,410 --> 00:41:41,350 location is much less exposed the port of portland's inland 414 00:25:15,430 --> 00:25:19,130 salmon continue to be of great economic and cultural importance 415 00:41:45,990 --> 00:41:49,020 the port was first established here in 1850, 416 00:41:49,060 --> 00:41:51,990 because this was the closest that sailing ships could get 417 00:41:52,030 --> 00:41:54,960 to the farmlands of the willamette. 418 00:41:55,000 --> 00:41:57,400 in those days, this area was not much more 419 00:41:57,430 --> 00:41:59,900 than a cluster of cabins. 420 00:41:59,930 --> 00:42:03,100 a vibrant city now, it's portland, 421 00:42:03,140 --> 00:42:07,740 of nearly 600,000 straddling the willamette river. 422 00:42:07,780 --> 00:42:09,380 it's nickname? 423 00:42:09,410 --> 00:42:11,050 bridgetown. 424 00:42:11,080 --> 00:42:14,620 11 bridges span the river, and without them, 425 00:42:14,650 --> 00:42:18,350 portland would not be what it is today. 426 00:42:21,660 --> 00:42:26,560 in the 1880s, portland, oregon, was a divided city. 427 00:08:57,890 --> 00:09:03,030 to the largest u.s. coast guard fleet on the northwest coast. 428 00:08:17,410 --> 00:08:20,480 but evidence of just how dangerous these waters can be 429 00:08:20,520 --> 00:08:23,720 lies further north. 430 00:08:23,750 --> 00:08:26,860 the 17-mile-wide entrance to the columbia river 431 00:08:27,020 --> 00:08:31,190 is an area known as the graveyard of the pacific. 432 00:08:31,330 --> 00:08:34,660 its waters look calm, but beneath their surface, 433 00:08:34,700 --> 00:08:36,400 powerful river currents clash 434 00:08:36,430 --> 00:08:38,800 with fierce incoming ocean swells, 435 00:08:38,830 --> 00:08:42,940 causing underwater sandbars to shift unpredictably 436 00:08:42,970 --> 00:08:45,610 and treacherous conditions that can deceive 437 00:08:45,640 --> 00:08:49,150 even the most experienced captains. 438 00:08:49,180 --> 00:08:52,680 over the years, 2,000 ships have gone down here, 439 00:08:52,720 --> 00:08:55,990 bringing with them 700 lives. 440 00:08:56,020 --> 00:08:57,850 it's why this area is home 441 00:08:14,880 --> 00:08:17,380 could save ships from calamity, 442 00:09:03,060 --> 00:09:05,700 been the only threat but surging currents haven't 443 00:09:05,730 --> 00:09:08,430 lurking beneath these waters. 444 00:09:08,460 --> 00:09:12,600 just before midnight on june 21, 1942, 445 00:09:12,640 --> 00:09:16,170 a japanese submarine just 8 miles offshore 446 00:09:16,210 --> 00:09:19,240 fired 17 shells at american soil 447 00:09:19,280 --> 00:09:22,910 before quickly disappearing back into the sea. 448 00:09:22,950 --> 00:09:27,350 those shells landed here at fort stevens. 449 00:09:27,520 --> 00:09:30,050 it was the only attack against a military installation 450 00:09:30,090 --> 00:09:34,360 on the u.s. mainland during world war ii. 451 00:09:34,390 --> 00:09:37,060 explore the batteries today's visitors 452 00:09:37,230 --> 00:09:39,730 scrambled in the dark where fort stevens' soldiers 453 00:09:39,760 --> 00:09:43,900 to their posts, ready to repulse the japanese attack. 454 00:07:30,400 --> 00:07:31,930 all aboard were rescued, 455 00:06:39,780 --> 00:06:44,190 that he and his party measured to be over 100 feet long. 456 00:06:44,220 --> 00:06:46,060 and the explorers were able to procure 457 00:06:46,090 --> 00:06:47,960 300 pounds of whale blubber 458 00:06:47,990 --> 00:06:50,890 from members of the tillamook tribe. 459 00:06:50,990 --> 00:06:54,360 for weeks, and clark wrote, they'd been eating dried elk 460 00:06:54,400 --> 00:06:58,400 "thank providence for directing the whale to us." 461 00:07:00,540 --> 00:07:04,940 today, the bones of another skeleton lie on this shore, 462 00:07:04,970 --> 00:07:08,780 a victim of the perilous seas off oregon's coast. 463 00:07:08,950 --> 00:07:11,980 this is the steel hull peter iredale, 464 00:07:12,010 --> 00:07:14,720 a four-masted vessel from england that remains wedged 465 00:07:14,750 --> 00:07:21,520 in the breakers just as it first did that windy day in 1906. 466 00:07:21,560 --> 00:07:24,790 wrenched by wind and current, she ran aground, 467 00:07:24,830 --> 00:07:30,230 hitting so hard, three of her masts snapped upon impact. 468 00:09:43,930 --> 00:09:45,270 but before they could, 469 00:07:31,970 --> 00:07:36,570 and in thanks, the captain bid his ship farewell, saying, 470 00:07:36,610 --> 00:07:43,080 "may god bless you and may your bones bleach in these sands." 471 00:07:43,250 --> 00:07:44,650 which they have, 472 00:07:44,680 --> 00:07:47,920 and still attract curious beachcombers today. 473 00:07:49,790 --> 00:07:52,820 before the era of gps and radar, 474 00:07:52,860 --> 00:07:55,520 fishermen sailing along this stretch of coast 475 00:07:55,560 --> 00:07:57,030 could find their way through the fog 476 00:07:57,060 --> 00:08:00,830 by listening for the birds on haystack rock. 477 00:08:00,860 --> 00:08:03,630 this 235-foot plug of lava 478 00:08:03,670 --> 00:08:07,770 is the third tallest intertidal rock formation in the world, 479 00:08:07,940 --> 00:08:10,810 and a year-round nesting spot for seabirds. 480 00:08:12,480 --> 00:08:14,740 that the cries of birds it's hard to imagine 481 00:12:02,270 --> 00:12:03,940 "we were traveling slowly 482 00:11:13,320 --> 00:11:15,490 many more followed in their footsteps, 483 00:11:15,520 --> 00:11:19,430 including the oregon trail pioneers. 484 00:11:19,460 --> 00:11:21,500 in the early to mid 19th century, 485 00:11:21,530 --> 00:11:24,600 more than 10,000 people arrived into the territory 486 00:11:24,630 --> 00:11:26,740 via the oregon trail. 487 00:11:28,570 --> 00:11:30,710 this overland route brought pioneers 488 00:11:30,740 --> 00:11:34,440 into eastern oregon at today's idaho border 489 00:11:34,480 --> 00:11:38,550 desert on their journey west. and through the state's eastern 490 00:11:40,180 --> 00:11:42,790 one of the pioneers who made the hard slog 491 00:11:42,820 --> 00:11:48,120 was a woman named amelia knight. through oregon's dry scrubland 492 00:11:48,360 --> 00:11:50,990 amelia, her husband, and seven children 493 00:11:51,160 --> 00:11:55,970 had already traveled 1,250 miles from iowa. 494 00:11:56,000 --> 00:12:02,240 on august 12, 1853, she made an entry into her diary: 495 00:11:11,420 --> 00:11:13,290 as these carvings illustrate, 496 00:12:03,970 --> 00:12:06,610 when our oxen dropped dead in the yoke. 497 00:12:06,640 --> 00:12:09,080 i could hardly help shedding tears. 498 00:12:09,180 --> 00:12:12,880 this poor ox who had helped us all along thus far, 499 00:12:12,920 --> 00:12:16,650 and had given us his very last step." 500 00:12:18,320 --> 00:12:21,960 but the knight family pressed on, driven by a belief 501 00:12:21,990 --> 00:12:24,990 that a better life was just ahead. 502 00:12:26,760 --> 00:12:29,370 soon after crossing into the territory, 503 00:12:29,400 --> 00:12:34,040 the oregon trail swung north through scrub, woodland, 504 00:12:34,070 --> 00:12:38,210 and then followed the columbia river west. 505 00:12:38,240 --> 00:12:42,310 this detour north was critical. 506 00:12:42,480 --> 00:12:45,250 going straight, through central oregon, would have meant 507 00:12:45,350 --> 00:12:48,980 confronting some of the most unusual and inhospitable terrain 508 00:10:31,550 --> 00:10:33,850 it's now home to 10,000, 509 00:09:45,300 --> 00:09:49,240 officers deemed the sub too far out of range. 510 00:09:49,270 --> 00:09:52,470 fort stevens was decommissioned in 1947, 511 00:09:52,510 --> 00:09:56,750 but still stands guard at the mouth of the columbia-- 512 00:09:56,780 --> 00:09:59,520 the gateway for ships headed to portland. 513 00:10:01,950 --> 00:10:07,490 10 miles upriver, they pass under the astoria-megler bridge. 514 00:10:07,520 --> 00:10:09,730 stretching more than four miles, 515 00:10:09,760 --> 00:10:13,330 truss bridge in america. it's the largest continuous 516 00:10:13,360 --> 00:10:15,230 designed to exploit the remarkable stability 517 00:10:15,330 --> 00:10:19,600 of triangles of bolted steel, it was an engineering marvel 518 00:10:19,640 --> 00:10:24,070 when it finally opened for traffic in 1966. 519 00:10:24,110 --> 00:10:27,640 this is the very northwest corner of oregon. 520 00:10:27,680 --> 00:10:31,510 the town of astoria is perched on its edge. 521 00:06:36,810 --> 00:06:39,750 he also came upon the skeleton of a blue whale 522 00:10:33,880 --> 00:10:37,190 but astoria began as a small fur-trading post, 523 00:10:37,220 --> 00:10:39,490 and not long after lewis and clark's arrival 524 00:10:39,520 --> 00:10:44,330 became the first european settlement in the northwest. 525 00:10:44,560 --> 00:10:47,260 when they first arrived at the pacific in 1805, 526 00:10:47,300 --> 00:10:50,830 lewis and clark carved their initials in a tree. 527 00:10:51,000 --> 00:10:54,300 that tree is gone, but astoria is known today 528 00:10:54,340 --> 00:10:57,140 for another set of carvings. 529 00:10:57,310 --> 00:11:00,880 the astoria column, erected in 1926, 530 00:11:00,910 --> 00:11:02,610 celebrates the westward expansion 531 00:11:02,780 --> 00:11:04,810 of oregon's early settlers, 532 00:11:04,910 --> 00:11:07,520 their first contact with native americans, 533 00:11:07,550 --> 00:11:11,390 and key events in the journey of lewis and clark. 534 00:02:56,790 --> 00:02:59,400 that would otherwise be wasted as runoff, 535 00:02:02,970 --> 00:02:07,010 be easily pinned down. the city of portland can't 536 00:02:07,040 --> 00:02:12,620 individuality, eccentricity and being different--deliberately-- 537 00:02:12,650 --> 00:02:17,150 intrinsically "made in oregon." a unique mix that's 538 00:02:17,190 --> 00:02:20,190 a non-conformist streak. it's a place with 539 00:02:20,220 --> 00:02:23,790 creator, matt groening, the birthplace of the simpsons' 540 00:02:23,830 --> 00:02:27,600 and the childhood home of grunge rocker courtney love. 541 00:02:27,630 --> 00:02:32,240 here, pubs don't just serve beer, they're likely to brew it. 542 00:02:32,270 --> 00:02:35,470 of the craft beer craze, it's the unofficial capital 543 00:02:35,510 --> 00:02:40,540 and home to more tattoo shops per capita than any other city. 544 00:02:40,640 --> 00:02:43,810 but only from the air is it possible to discover 545 00:02:43,850 --> 00:02:49,050 how portland truly turns things upside down. 546 00:02:49,090 --> 00:02:53,120 gardens grow on 27 acres of rooftop. 547 00:02:53,160 --> 00:02:56,760 capturing rainfall they're surprising but sensible, 548 00:01:59,400 --> 00:02:02,940 that defies a simple description-- 549 00:02:59,500 --> 00:03:02,370 reducing pollution and saving energy. 550 00:03:03,570 --> 00:03:06,600 reinventing green spaces is just one way 551 00:03:06,640 --> 00:03:09,370 oregonians think outside the box 552 00:03:09,410 --> 00:03:11,470 and keep alive the adventurous spirit 553 00:03:11,570 --> 00:03:14,940 original pioneers. of the state's 554 00:03:14,980 --> 00:03:17,750 to understand how one of america's quirkiest cities 555 00:03:17,780 --> 00:03:19,120 got this way 556 00:03:19,150 --> 00:03:22,120 requires traveling back in time, 557 00:03:22,150 --> 00:03:25,450 starting at one of oregon's wildest places. 558 00:03:27,520 --> 00:03:30,190 at the center of this state is an unusual gathering place 559 00:03:30,230 --> 00:03:33,160 in the foothills of the ochoco mountains-- 560 00:03:33,200 --> 00:03:35,030 one that seems to breathe the air 561 00:00:41,460 --> 00:00:44,590 and the success of its entrepreneurs. 562 00:00:04,890 --> 00:00:07,060 in the west, a primeval landscape 563 00:00:07,090 --> 00:00:09,530 at the edge of the world. 564 00:00:09,660 --> 00:00:13,930 to the east, miles of high-altitude desert 565 00:00:13,960 --> 00:00:16,870 too desolate for life to thrive. 566 00:00:16,900 --> 00:00:21,340 but everywhere, evidence of a rich volcanic past-- 567 00:00:21,440 --> 00:00:23,910 a lava flow where apollo 11 astronauts trained 568 00:00:23,940 --> 00:00:26,310 to walk on the moon, 569 00:00:26,340 --> 00:00:31,180 a vast crater with the deepest lake in north america, 570 00:00:31,210 --> 00:00:34,350 and painted hills that hold the fossils 571 00:00:34,380 --> 00:00:37,450 of amazing ancient creatures. 572 00:00:37,490 --> 00:00:39,090 oregon has always been known 573 00:00:39,120 --> 00:00:41,420 for the hopeful spirit of its pioneers 574 00:03:35,060 --> 00:03:38,030 of oregon's pioneering spirit. 575 00:00:44,630 --> 00:00:47,860 it was here where a college athlete and his coach 576 00:00:47,900 --> 00:00:50,330 turned a simple idea for a running shoe 577 00:00:50,500 --> 00:00:53,870 into the best-known sportswear brand of all time, 578 00:00:53,900 --> 00:00:56,640 and where a where a young winemaker surprised the world 579 00:00:56,670 --> 00:01:00,540 by growing award-winning oregon grapes. 580 00:01:00,580 --> 00:01:03,510 junkies take to the air it's a place where adrenaline 581 00:01:03,550 --> 00:01:07,380 on one of the greatest rivers in the west. 582 00:01:07,420 --> 00:01:10,720 even the energy here is alternative. 583 00:01:12,460 --> 00:01:15,490 so proud is this state of its innovative spirit, 584 00:01:15,530 --> 00:01:19,530 it coined the motto "she flies with her own wings." 585 00:01:21,230 --> 00:01:24,000 this is oregon. 586 00:01:56,600 --> 00:01:59,370 our journey across oregon begins in a place 587 00:05:56,870 --> 00:05:59,710 it was november, and with winter coming on, 588 00:05:05,720 --> 00:05:10,260 in 1992, monkey face became an international icon 589 00:05:10,360 --> 00:05:12,800 when french climber jean baptiste tribout 590 00:05:12,830 --> 00:05:16,400 made the first ascent up the overhanging east wall. 591 00:05:16,430 --> 00:05:18,730 it instantly eclipsed even the toughest climbs 592 00:05:18,770 --> 00:05:20,740 in north america. 593 00:05:20,770 --> 00:05:23,710 he named the route "just do it." 594 00:05:25,840 --> 00:05:28,750 once climbers reach the top of smith rock, 595 00:05:28,780 --> 00:05:31,210 many take a moment to savor the view 596 00:05:31,310 --> 00:05:34,920 most remarkable landscapes. of one of america's 597 00:05:40,020 --> 00:05:43,290 more than two centuries ago, a couple of adventurers 598 00:05:43,390 --> 00:05:47,160 were taking in their first views of this territory. 599 00:05:47,200 --> 00:05:51,970 in 1805, lewis and clark traveled down the columbia river 600 00:05:52,000 --> 00:05:56,840 and finally laid eyes on the pacific ocean. 601 00:05:01,680 --> 00:05:05,690 and earn the privilege of naming it. 602 00:05:59,740 --> 00:06:03,150 they started building a camp here in a stand of evergreens, 603 00:06:03,180 --> 00:06:05,250 naming it fort clatsop, 604 00:06:05,280 --> 00:06:07,880 after one of the local native american tribes. 605 00:06:09,390 --> 00:06:10,990 william clark set off with a party 606 00:06:11,090 --> 00:06:13,760 down the coast to search for provisions. 607 00:06:15,420 --> 00:06:18,390 in the fall, this coast is now a popular place 608 00:06:18,430 --> 00:06:21,000 to spot gray whales on their annual migration 609 00:06:21,160 --> 00:06:24,570 between the bering sea and mexico. 610 00:06:24,600 --> 00:06:27,470 a little further on, clark clambered up the steep bluffs 611 00:06:27,640 --> 00:06:31,070 of tillamook head, which he described in his journal 612 00:06:31,110 --> 00:06:33,940 as "the steepest, worst, and highest mountain 613 00:06:33,980 --> 00:06:36,780 i ever ascended." 614 00:04:19,380 --> 00:04:22,580 in north america, challenging the best in the world 615 00:03:38,070 --> 00:03:40,570 the appropriately named crooked river 616 00:03:40,600 --> 00:03:43,210 twists and turns through steep slopes 617 00:03:43,240 --> 00:03:46,880 to the towering spires of smith rock. 618 00:03:48,480 --> 00:03:50,450 this castle of craggy peaks 619 00:03:50,480 --> 00:03:52,550 dates back to a catastrophic eruption 620 00:03:52,580 --> 00:03:55,390 nearly 20 million years ago. 621 00:03:55,490 --> 00:03:58,590 hot ash, lava, and chunks of rock surged 622 00:03:58,620 --> 00:04:02,790 like an ancient oil gusher, eventually cooling in place, 623 00:04:02,830 --> 00:04:08,130 and over time weathering into great stone pinnacles. 624 00:04:08,160 --> 00:04:12,840 in some cultures, places like this attract mystics. 625 00:04:12,870 --> 00:04:16,870 for adventurers. in oregon, it's a haven 626 00:04:16,910 --> 00:04:19,340 welcome to one of the hottest spots for sport climbing 627 00:12:49,020 --> 00:12:51,890 in america. 628 00:04:22,710 --> 00:04:27,350 to find new routes up its most demanding surfaces. 629 00:04:27,380 --> 00:04:30,020 the toughest one of all is a 300-foot-high pillar 630 00:04:30,050 --> 00:04:32,560 that looms above the valley. 631 00:04:32,590 --> 00:04:36,260 it's called monkey face. 632 00:04:36,290 --> 00:04:38,800 for these hard core sport climbers, 633 00:04:38,830 --> 00:04:41,930 it isn't just about reaching the top, it's about finding 634 00:04:42,030 --> 00:04:46,470 the toughest possible route up and down the peak-- 635 00:04:46,500 --> 00:04:50,340 scaling near-vertical walls, 636 00:04:50,370 --> 00:04:53,110 suspending from a single rope, 637 00:04:53,140 --> 00:04:56,750 and rappelling into the abyss. 638 00:04:56,880 --> 00:04:59,680 the ultimate achievement-- to be the first to take on 639 00:04:59,720 --> 00:05:01,650 a newer, harder route 640 00:21:41,220 --> 00:21:45,990 but these unmarked buildings are the true heart of the internet. 641 00:20:57,570 --> 00:21:01,180 towers, rotors and blades are built internationally 642 00:21:01,280 --> 00:21:03,350 and then shipped to oregon. 643 00:21:03,510 --> 00:21:06,750 the state now has nearly 1,200 wind turbines 644 00:21:06,780 --> 00:21:09,080 on more than a dozen wind farms. 645 00:21:10,820 --> 00:21:14,390 as these towers multiply, so do their critics-- 646 00:21:14,420 --> 00:21:19,590 incessant noise, ruined vistas, threats to birds. 647 00:21:19,630 --> 00:21:21,900 the complaints are mounting, but there's no question 648 00:21:21,930 --> 00:21:25,030 that wind is providing an important alternative 649 00:21:25,070 --> 00:21:28,340 sources of electricity. to oregon's traditional 650 00:21:28,540 --> 00:21:31,440 and the demand for power is increasing in the state, 651 00:21:31,470 --> 00:21:34,380 recently developing especially from oregon's 652 00:21:34,410 --> 00:21:36,080 digital economy. 653 00:21:39,310 --> 00:21:41,050 by looking at them, you'd never know 654 00:20:51,330 --> 00:20:57,370 the wind is free, but the turbine technology isn't. 655 00:21:46,020 --> 00:21:50,560 when you google justin beiber, lady gaga, or tsunami japan, 656 00:21:50,590 --> 00:21:55,000 chances are your search is routed through this facility, 657 00:21:55,030 --> 00:21:58,630 along with millions of other search requests and emails. 658 00:21:58,670 --> 00:22:02,000 the google server farm, it's known as 659 00:22:02,040 --> 00:22:07,240 and its location here near the columbia river is no accident. 660 00:22:07,280 --> 00:22:09,210 the server farm's cooling towers 661 00:22:09,240 --> 00:22:12,810 require as much as 100 megawatts, 662 00:22:12,850 --> 00:22:16,850 enough to power more than 40 million ipads. 663 00:22:18,720 --> 00:22:21,690 dalles hydroelectric station, and it's the nearby 664 00:22:21,720 --> 00:22:25,090 with its half-mile-long powerhouse, that supplies google 665 00:22:25,260 --> 00:22:29,060 with a steady source of cheap, renewable power. 666 00:22:29,100 --> 00:22:31,970 the basic technology of hydropower has been around 667 00:20:00,720 --> 00:20:03,950 and a fast-growing forest of giant machines 668 00:19:16,410 --> 00:19:18,810 east of the cascades. 669 00:19:18,840 --> 00:19:21,840 but in 1985, one of the community's leaders 670 00:19:21,880 --> 00:19:26,120 tried to rig the county election with an outrageous attack-- 671 00:19:26,150 --> 00:19:28,720 planting salmonella in salad bars 672 00:19:28,880 --> 00:19:31,450 at ten local restaurants. 673 00:19:31,490 --> 00:19:35,720 it was the first act of bioterrorism in the u.s. 674 00:19:35,760 --> 00:19:39,560 one year later, the dream was over, 675 00:19:39,590 --> 00:19:42,600 and rajneeshpurum lay abandoned. 676 00:19:44,270 --> 00:19:47,070 throughout its history, oregon has lured many 677 00:19:47,200 --> 00:19:50,240 seeking alternative ways of life-- 678 00:19:50,270 --> 00:19:53,610 from hardscrabble pioneers to sport climbers, 679 00:19:53,640 --> 00:19:56,250 scaling its volcanic peaks. 680 00:19:56,280 --> 00:20:00,680 home to alternative energy but these days, it's also 681 00:22:32,000 --> 00:22:33,840 since ancient times-- 682 00:20:03,990 --> 00:20:06,250 that run on the wind. 683 00:20:13,500 --> 00:20:15,960 it looks like a garden of giant pinwheels 684 00:20:16,000 --> 00:20:18,300 sprouting across the landscape, 685 00:20:18,330 --> 00:20:20,740 dominating the horizon above the wheat farms 686 00:20:20,770 --> 00:20:24,240 of oregon's wasco county. 687 00:20:24,270 --> 00:20:27,980 wind energy industry. this is the heart of oregon's 688 00:20:28,010 --> 00:20:31,280 the pylons tower 65 feet in the air. 689 00:20:31,310 --> 00:20:36,120 the arc of their blades spans more than 200 feet. 690 00:20:36,150 --> 00:20:39,990 each of these turbines generates up to 2.4 megawatts, 691 00:20:40,020 --> 00:20:42,920 enough to power 420 homes. 692 00:20:44,690 --> 00:20:47,400 wind power currently provides more than 6% 693 00:20:47,560 --> 00:20:51,300 electricity supply. of oregon's total 694 00:24:36,390 --> 00:24:38,990 so that salmon could leap from pool to pool, 695 00:23:59,020 --> 00:24:01,860 of the highest concentrations of native americans 696 00:24:01,890 --> 00:24:03,460 on the continent, 697 00:24:03,560 --> 00:24:05,730 and much of their economic and social life 698 00:24:05,890 --> 00:24:09,360 centered on columbia river salmon. 699 00:24:09,400 --> 00:24:11,570 early pioneers, just like the state's 700 00:24:11,600 --> 00:24:15,800 salmon are another of oregon's tenacious travelers. 701 00:24:15,900 --> 00:24:18,810 from their birth on the columbia, they head downstream 702 00:24:18,840 --> 00:24:22,680 to the pacific, where they spend four to five years. 703 00:24:22,710 --> 00:24:26,150 then, their natural instinct is to return upstream 704 00:24:26,180 --> 00:24:29,420 to lay eggs in the place they were born. 705 00:24:29,450 --> 00:24:32,350 but these dams make that journey difficult. 706 00:24:32,520 --> 00:24:34,690 to try and mitigate the dam's effect, 707 00:24:34,860 --> 00:24:36,360 fish ladders were built 708 00:23:56,990 --> 00:23:58,990 historians think this region held some 709 00:24:39,030 --> 00:24:41,500 and find their way up and over a dam 710 00:24:41,530 --> 00:24:43,970 to reach their spawning grounds. 711 00:24:44,000 --> 00:24:47,300 some of the ladders have exhausted and killed more fish 712 00:24:47,340 --> 00:24:49,200 than they've conveyed. 713 00:24:49,240 --> 00:24:51,310 but a million salmon still manage 714 00:24:51,340 --> 00:24:54,810 to make it upstream each year. 715 00:24:54,910 --> 00:24:57,780 once, hydropower on the columbia was hailed 716 00:24:57,810 --> 00:25:00,880 as a great source of renewable energy. 717 00:25:00,920 --> 00:25:02,920 but recently, critics have charged 718 00:25:02,950 --> 00:25:06,020 that this once mighty river has become 719 00:25:06,050 --> 00:25:09,820 merely a series of reservoirs between dams. 720 00:25:11,960 --> 00:25:15,330 despite the dams and loss of traditional fishing spots, 721 00:23:16,910 --> 00:23:20,280 one of these was a legendary series of waterfalls 722 00:22:33,870 --> 00:22:36,170 back up water behind a dam, 723 00:22:36,340 --> 00:22:41,040 then funnel the pressurized stream past a spinning turbine. 724 00:22:41,080 --> 00:22:44,480 the promise of the columbia as a source of renewable power 725 00:22:44,510 --> 00:22:47,280 has transformed this mighty river. 726 00:22:47,320 --> 00:22:52,690 the dalles dam is one of many hydroelectric projects here. 727 00:22:52,720 --> 00:22:57,190 completed in 1938, the bonneville dam was the first. 728 00:22:57,230 --> 00:23:00,260 since then, 14 more hydroelectric projects 729 00:23:00,300 --> 00:23:02,830 have been built on the columbia. 730 00:23:02,860 --> 00:23:05,630 but their power has come with a price. 731 00:23:06,970 --> 00:23:12,010 salmon next to impossible. the dams made life for oregon's 732 00:23:12,170 --> 00:23:13,410 and destroyed they've also flooded 733 00:23:13,640 --> 00:23:16,750 traditional native american fishing grounds. 734 00:19:12,930 --> 00:19:16,240 they had more firepower than all the oregon state police 735 00:23:20,320 --> 00:23:24,420 native americans called "celilo." 736 00:23:24,450 --> 00:23:27,620 the falls are gone, and so are the fish drying huts 737 00:23:27,660 --> 00:23:29,990 that once lined the river. 738 00:23:30,030 --> 00:23:31,830 but the rise of a new tribal longhouse 739 00:23:31,860 --> 00:23:35,700 marks a revival of one celilo village. 740 00:23:35,730 --> 00:23:38,170 built with help from the army corps of engineers, 741 00:23:38,200 --> 00:23:40,370 of columbia basin it's a place where members 742 00:23:40,400 --> 00:23:42,670 native american tribes gather. 743 00:23:44,240 --> 00:23:48,040 when lewis and clark journeyed down the river in 1805, 744 00:23:48,080 --> 00:23:49,680 they estimated there could be 745 00:23:49,710 --> 00:23:52,880 as many as 10,000 native americans here, 746 00:23:52,910 --> 00:23:56,950 twice the population of washington, d.c., at the time. 747 00:15:23,570 --> 00:15:27,140 in the 1960s, nasa discovered that the moon's surface 748 00:14:29,520 --> 00:14:34,020 stands lava butte, a type of volcano called a cinder cone 749 00:14:34,190 --> 00:14:36,960 that formed 7,000 years ago. 750 00:14:37,130 --> 00:14:39,360 a fire station stands on its rim, looking out 751 00:14:39,530 --> 00:14:43,470 over the field of lava that's seeped from the butte. 752 00:14:43,630 --> 00:14:46,770 giant lava flows are everywhere in oregon. 753 00:14:46,800 --> 00:14:50,270 like this one-- but there's nothing 754 00:14:50,310 --> 00:14:54,910 the big obsidian flow. it's known as 755 00:14:54,940 --> 00:14:58,250 1,300 years ago, a nearby volcano belched 756 00:14:58,280 --> 00:15:03,450 170 million cubic yards of liquid volcanic glass-- 757 00:15:03,550 --> 00:15:07,290 enough to pave a road circling the earth three times. 758 00:15:09,090 --> 00:15:14,400 in its hardened state, obsidian is perfect for making tools. 759 00:15:14,430 --> 00:15:18,430 the cutting edge of an obsidian knife is sharper than steel. 760 00:15:20,300 --> 00:15:23,540 it's not exactly easy terrain. 761 00:14:26,850 --> 00:14:29,490 rising 500 feet from a tree-covered plain 762 00:15:27,180 --> 00:15:29,580 looked a lot like this lava flow. 763 00:15:31,410 --> 00:15:34,480 apollo 11 astronauts neil armstrong, buzz aldrin, 764 00:15:34,520 --> 00:15:36,350 and michael collins came here 765 00:15:36,520 --> 00:15:39,790 to practice walking across jagged, unpredictable terrain, 766 00:15:39,820 --> 00:15:43,260 their spacesuits on the moon. so they wouldn't tear 767 00:15:48,660 --> 00:15:51,100 oregonians have made themselves quite at home 768 00:15:51,130 --> 00:15:53,240 on these lava lands. 769 00:15:53,270 --> 00:15:56,840 the city of bend is one of only a few in the u.s. 770 00:15:56,870 --> 00:16:01,110 that actually has a volcano within the city limits. 771 00:16:01,140 --> 00:16:04,510 pilot butte was a guiding landmark to native americans 772 00:16:04,550 --> 00:16:06,110 and early white explorers 773 00:16:06,150 --> 00:16:10,050 traveling across the central oregon plateau. 774 00:13:41,440 --> 00:13:43,710 tens of millions of years old, 775 00:12:51,920 --> 00:12:57,490 imagine trying to drive a covered wagon over this. 776 00:12:57,530 --> 00:13:00,830 encountering the painted hills in north-central oregon 777 00:13:00,860 --> 00:13:04,900 been transported to mars. can make one feel like they've 778 00:13:06,740 --> 00:13:11,340 in fact, this scenic marvel is an extraordinary record 779 00:13:11,510 --> 00:13:14,740 of the past 40 million years-- 780 00:13:14,780 --> 00:13:20,280 a logbook of changes in climate, plant and animal life. 781 00:13:20,320 --> 00:13:23,550 it's the story of oregon's ancient past 782 00:13:23,590 --> 00:13:27,090 told in colored soils... 783 00:13:27,120 --> 00:13:30,460 red from the residue of wet primeval forests 784 00:13:30,490 --> 00:13:33,260 of sequoia and oak, 785 00:13:33,300 --> 00:13:37,830 yellow from a time when the climate turned dry. 786 00:13:37,870 --> 00:13:41,400 and everything preserved in a dusting of volcanic ash, 787 00:16:10,090 --> 00:16:14,060 today, the butte is a popular lookout spot. 788 00:13:43,740 --> 00:13:48,280 of vegetation for all to see. that's kept these hills free 789 00:13:50,280 --> 00:13:53,350 prehistoric beasts once walked here, too-- 790 00:13:53,380 --> 00:13:57,120 three-toed horses, pigs the size of bison, 791 00:13:57,150 --> 00:13:59,720 and rhinos. 792 00:13:59,820 --> 00:14:03,430 many thousands of their fossils have been recovered. 793 00:14:05,390 --> 00:14:08,130 volcanic activity has dramatically changed 794 00:14:08,160 --> 00:14:10,400 the face of oregon. 795 00:14:10,430 --> 00:14:13,570 molten magma has built many of its mountains, 796 00:14:13,740 --> 00:14:18,610 and fresh lava flows blanket hundreds of square miles. 797 00:14:18,640 --> 00:14:21,840 high lava plains, these are oregon's 798 00:14:21,880 --> 00:14:25,450 home to some of the youngest and most dramatic volcanic sites 799 00:14:25,480 --> 00:14:26,680 in the state. 800 00:18:34,830 --> 00:18:37,400 named bhagwan shree rajneesh 801 00:17:44,850 --> 00:17:48,820 explosive ash may have built these walls of rock, 802 00:17:48,850 --> 00:17:52,290 but it was wind-driven waves that scoured them down, 803 00:17:52,320 --> 00:17:54,290 day after day. 804 00:17:54,460 --> 00:17:58,490 nearby, a series of ramshackle buildings are all that remain 805 00:17:58,530 --> 00:18:02,300 of a turn of the century scam. 806 00:18:02,330 --> 00:18:05,530 developers sold a promise of underground water, 807 00:18:05,570 --> 00:18:09,400 and a potential branch spur to the railroad line. 808 00:18:09,440 --> 00:18:16,080 neither happened, leaving a ghost town of broken dreams. 809 00:18:16,110 --> 00:18:19,050 vast stretches of this state remain remote 810 00:18:19,080 --> 00:18:21,320 and practically uninhabitable. 811 00:18:21,350 --> 00:18:25,150 but to some, that's also been oregon's appeal. 812 00:18:26,790 --> 00:18:31,260 today, the town of antelope is home to a christian youth camp. 813 00:18:31,290 --> 00:18:34,660 but in the early 1980s, a guru from india 814 00:17:41,540 --> 00:17:44,810 that once covered these deserts. 815 00:18:37,430 --> 00:18:39,430 tried to take over the town. 816 00:18:39,570 --> 00:18:43,340 his 64,000-acre ranch, called rajneeshpuram, 817 00:18:43,510 --> 00:18:46,740 was the center of operations for his thousands of followers, 818 00:18:46,780 --> 00:18:49,880 known as rajneeshees. 819 00:18:49,910 --> 00:18:52,210 they cleared 3,000 acres of land on the ranch 820 00:18:52,310 --> 00:18:53,680 to grow their own food 821 00:18:53,720 --> 00:18:57,020 and built a 10-megawatt power station. 822 00:18:57,050 --> 00:19:00,320 joining the commune meant donating everything you owned, 823 00:19:00,360 --> 00:19:03,120 including your bank account. 824 00:19:03,160 --> 00:19:05,390 perhaps that is what allowed rajneesh 825 00:19:05,430 --> 00:19:08,630 to have his own fleet of rolls-royces. 826 00:19:08,800 --> 00:19:12,900 group amassed so many weapons, it's also been reported that the 827 00:16:56,000 --> 00:16:57,600 of lumber a year. 828 00:16:14,090 --> 00:16:16,660 with 300 days a year of sunshine, 829 00:16:16,690 --> 00:16:19,860 bend is a center of outdoor activity and a staging place 830 00:16:19,900 --> 00:16:22,900 for skiers heading to nearby peaks. 831 00:16:24,870 --> 00:16:28,470 paddle-boarding is the latest sport to catch on here, 832 00:16:28,500 --> 00:16:30,140 imported to oregon from hawaii 833 00:16:30,170 --> 00:16:33,280 by a couple of north shore surfers in 2001. 834 00:16:35,110 --> 00:16:37,950 bend may be a recreation hub today, 835 00:16:37,980 --> 00:16:40,350 but these rising silver smokestacks 836 00:16:40,380 --> 00:16:45,350 as a hardworking lumber town. broadcast the city's roots 837 00:16:45,390 --> 00:16:48,660 beginning in the late 1910s, this old mill district 838 00:16:48,690 --> 00:16:52,490 was home to some of the largest pine sawmills in the world, 839 00:16:52,530 --> 00:16:55,830 at their peak producing some 500 million board feet 840 00:00:01,750 --> 00:00:04,850 of surprising contrasts. oregon--it's a land 841 00:16:59,200 --> 00:17:02,100 the fuel for this industrial engine? 842 00:17:02,140 --> 00:17:03,940 ponderosa pine. 843 00:17:05,510 --> 00:17:09,910 these giants thrive in the dry, volcanic soil of central oregon. 844 00:17:09,950 --> 00:17:14,020 their long roots can reach deep to moist soil below. 845 00:17:14,050 --> 00:17:17,120 and their straight, lightweight hardwood was in heavy demand 846 00:17:17,150 --> 00:17:20,190 for ship building during world war i. 847 00:17:22,720 --> 00:17:25,460 steered clear oregon's earliest pioneers 848 00:17:25,490 --> 00:17:28,700 of this part of the state. 849 00:17:28,800 --> 00:17:32,100 but in the early 20th century, developers tried to settle 850 00:17:32,130 --> 00:17:35,270 an area called fort rock. 851 00:17:35,300 --> 00:17:38,670 this giant ring formed about a half a million years ago, 852 00:17:38,710 --> 00:17:41,510 when lava bubbled up in the middle of an ancient lake 70076

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