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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:00,311 --> 00:00:01,710 (dramatic music) 2 00:00:01,710 --> 00:00:03,620 The European continent 3 00:00:03,620 --> 00:00:07,163 is a treasure trove of jaw-dropping landscapes. 4 00:00:08,920 --> 00:00:12,260 With icons of human civilization, 5 00:00:12,260 --> 00:00:15,463 both modern and historic. 6 00:00:17,140 --> 00:00:20,420 It's a continent of contrasts. 7 00:00:20,420 --> 00:00:23,120 Colin Devey is on an expedition, 8 00:00:23,120 --> 00:00:25,060 from the sunny Mediterranean, 9 00:00:25,060 --> 00:00:28,290 to the frozen landscapes of Iceland. 10 00:00:28,290 --> 00:00:29,720 Wow, it's impressive here. 11 00:00:29,720 --> 00:00:31,650 You can almost feel the weight 12 00:00:31,650 --> 00:00:33,610 of the ice above your head. 13 00:00:33,610 --> 00:00:36,740 He'll explore Europe's natural wonders. 14 00:00:36,740 --> 00:00:37,573 Fascinating. 15 00:00:39,400 --> 00:00:42,873 And find traces of ancient inhabitants. 16 00:00:44,980 --> 00:00:48,890 Where today life pulsates in the metropolitan areas, 17 00:00:48,890 --> 00:00:52,263 strange creatures once populated the land. 18 00:00:54,500 --> 00:00:57,340 Join Colin Devey on a journey 19 00:00:58,860 --> 00:01:02,932 through the natural history of a fascinating continent. 20 00:01:02,932 --> 00:01:05,682 (dramatic music) 21 00:01:20,300 --> 00:01:22,880 The Elbe Sandstone mountains, 22 00:01:22,880 --> 00:01:26,230 one of the most extraordinary landscapes in Europe. 23 00:01:26,230 --> 00:01:29,593 The steep rocks are an ideal sanctuary for many. 24 00:01:34,290 --> 00:01:37,440 Peregrine Falcons are a widespread raptor. 25 00:01:37,440 --> 00:01:40,453 They live on every continent outside the polar regions. 26 00:01:43,270 --> 00:01:45,260 But they feel particularly at home here 27 00:01:45,260 --> 00:01:47,090 among the exposed rocks, 28 00:01:47,090 --> 00:01:49,303 where they nest in shallow hollows. 29 00:01:49,303 --> 00:01:52,053 (dramatic music) 30 00:01:58,690 --> 00:02:02,330 Gray Wagtails look for food in the clear brooks. 31 00:02:02,330 --> 00:02:04,470 They share parenting duty, 32 00:02:04,470 --> 00:02:06,430 and chicks wait impatiently 33 00:02:06,430 --> 00:02:07,970 in a hidden crevasse close by. 34 00:02:07,970 --> 00:02:10,220 (chirping) 35 00:02:11,530 --> 00:02:14,987 The woods around these rocks are popular with visitors. 36 00:02:14,987 --> 00:02:17,737 (dramatic music) 37 00:02:20,560 --> 00:02:24,280 Climbers and hikers come to the region in large numbers. 38 00:02:24,280 --> 00:02:27,270 The rock that forms these mountains is unique, 39 00:02:27,270 --> 00:02:29,106 with its own set of rules. 40 00:02:29,106 --> 00:02:31,856 (dramatic music) 41 00:02:35,810 --> 00:02:38,520 Every touch reveals the basic substance 42 00:02:38,520 --> 00:02:41,360 of this landscape, sand. 43 00:02:41,360 --> 00:02:44,810 Geologically speaking, the rocks are relatively young. 44 00:02:44,810 --> 00:02:48,120 As impressive as these natural monuments may seem, 45 00:02:48,120 --> 00:02:51,298 they are fragile, and protected for good reason. 46 00:02:51,298 --> 00:02:54,048 (dramatic music) 47 00:02:58,080 --> 00:02:59,760 It's a curious landscape, 48 00:02:59,760 --> 00:03:02,370 that you can only really appreciate when you get up here. 49 00:03:02,370 --> 00:03:05,070 It's quite easy to see how the landscape was formed though. 50 00:03:05,070 --> 00:03:08,140 This used to be a huge sandstone plateau, 51 00:03:08,140 --> 00:03:10,120 and the stone itself, the sandstone, 52 00:03:10,120 --> 00:03:11,820 is really quite soft. 53 00:03:11,820 --> 00:03:13,840 So the River Elbe, which you can see behind me, 54 00:03:13,840 --> 00:03:15,410 and the wind and rain, have been able 55 00:03:15,410 --> 00:03:18,920 to cut down into it, and they've left these pillars, 56 00:03:18,920 --> 00:03:20,753 sculptures almost, behind. 57 00:03:20,753 --> 00:03:23,595 The sandstone itself is quite old, 58 00:03:23,595 --> 00:03:26,073 and at that time, this was the coastline. 59 00:03:29,350 --> 00:03:31,060 The history of this landscape 60 00:03:31,060 --> 00:03:34,629 goes back a long way, millions of years. 61 00:03:34,629 --> 00:03:37,379 (dramatic music) 62 00:03:40,630 --> 00:03:42,493 It began underwater. 63 00:03:43,730 --> 00:03:46,109 The curious rock formations originated 64 00:03:46,109 --> 00:03:49,563 in a primeval sea, that no longer exists. 65 00:03:53,730 --> 00:03:56,843 We're on the edge of the great Tethys Ocean, 66 00:03:58,880 --> 00:04:02,173 100 million years ago, in a wide bay. 67 00:04:04,663 --> 00:04:06,700 (dramatic swoop) 68 00:04:06,700 --> 00:04:09,080 Europe is a water world. 69 00:04:09,080 --> 00:04:11,900 Tropical temperatures have heated up the oceans, 70 00:04:11,900 --> 00:04:14,320 and there is no ice at the poles. 71 00:04:14,320 --> 00:04:16,760 Sea level is higher than at any other time 72 00:04:16,760 --> 00:04:20,818 in earth's history, 300 meters above the modern level. 73 00:04:20,818 --> 00:04:23,568 (dramatic music) 74 00:04:26,270 --> 00:04:30,273 The area of the Elbe sandstone lies in a shallow sea. 75 00:04:33,029 --> 00:04:35,779 (dramatic swoop) 76 00:04:37,490 --> 00:04:42,320 Rivers and ocean currents transport sand into this area. 77 00:04:42,320 --> 00:04:44,930 The murky waters are perfect for hunters. 78 00:04:44,930 --> 00:04:48,393 Crocodiles and sharks resemble their modern descendants. 79 00:04:51,140 --> 00:04:54,550 But the ancient crocodiles are much bigger. 80 00:04:54,550 --> 00:04:58,210 The Deinosuchus, which translates to terrible crocodile, 81 00:04:58,210 --> 00:04:59,643 was a massive predator. 82 00:05:00,533 --> 00:05:03,283 (dramatic music) 83 00:05:09,100 --> 00:05:12,420 Huge omnivorous turtles wander through the ocean, 84 00:05:12,420 --> 00:05:16,015 feeding on jellyfish, and aquatic plants. 85 00:05:16,015 --> 00:05:19,160 (dramatic music) 86 00:05:19,160 --> 00:05:21,263 Their size protects them from predators. 87 00:05:22,322 --> 00:05:25,072 (dramatic music) 88 00:05:31,520 --> 00:05:33,746 Ammonites have inhabited the world's oceans 89 00:05:33,746 --> 00:05:36,973 for over 350 million years. 90 00:05:39,060 --> 00:05:42,270 They thrive one last time in the Tethys sea, 91 00:05:42,270 --> 00:05:44,130 before completely disappearing 92 00:05:44,130 --> 00:05:46,879 at the end of the Cretaceous period. 93 00:05:46,879 --> 00:05:49,129 (bubbling) 94 00:05:50,800 --> 00:05:53,430 Plesiosaurs, prehistoric marine reptiles, 95 00:05:53,430 --> 00:05:56,663 roam the shallow coastal waters in search of fish. 96 00:06:00,360 --> 00:06:03,630 They have small heads, very long necks, 97 00:06:03,630 --> 00:06:06,173 and stretch up to 15 meters long. 98 00:06:09,160 --> 00:06:11,220 Floating elegantly through the ocean 99 00:06:11,220 --> 00:06:14,464 using their fin-like limbs as gigantic paddles. 100 00:06:14,464 --> 00:06:17,214 (dramatic music) 101 00:06:19,580 --> 00:06:22,040 The warm sea is generating more life 102 00:06:22,040 --> 00:06:24,003 than the ecosystem can process. 103 00:06:25,930 --> 00:06:28,160 The uneaten biomass left over 104 00:06:28,160 --> 00:06:31,140 from the ocean's dead, sinks to the depths, 105 00:06:31,140 --> 00:06:33,053 where it remains undegraded. 106 00:06:35,460 --> 00:06:37,690 Slowly, over millions of years, 107 00:06:37,690 --> 00:06:39,477 this waste is transformed 108 00:06:39,477 --> 00:06:43,880 into an energy rich substance: crude oil. 109 00:06:43,880 --> 00:06:45,928 A large part of the world's oil reserves 110 00:06:45,928 --> 00:06:48,643 can be traced back to the Cretaceous period. 111 00:06:49,520 --> 00:06:51,260 As the water level drops, 112 00:06:51,260 --> 00:06:53,880 the shallowest stretches of ocean disappear, 113 00:06:53,880 --> 00:06:55,673 revealing a new landscape. 114 00:06:56,510 --> 00:06:58,369 The remains of this prehistoric ocean 115 00:06:58,369 --> 00:07:01,810 are the building blocks for today's mountains. 116 00:07:01,810 --> 00:07:04,329 Now that ocean of course is long since gone, 117 00:07:04,329 --> 00:07:07,000 but at the time Tethys, as we call it, 118 00:07:07,000 --> 00:07:08,473 was a global ocean. 119 00:07:10,810 --> 00:07:13,100 It covered much of Europe. 120 00:07:13,100 --> 00:07:16,130 Here at the coastline, the river brought lots 121 00:07:16,130 --> 00:07:18,290 of sand from the continent's interior 122 00:07:18,290 --> 00:07:22,070 into the shallow sea, and created an ideal condition 123 00:07:22,070 --> 00:07:25,340 for the formation of a huge sandstone plateau 124 00:07:25,340 --> 00:07:27,050 like you see behind me. 125 00:07:27,050 --> 00:07:30,113 Now at the time, Tethys was already on the retreat, 126 00:07:31,100 --> 00:07:33,470 and the reason is Africa, heading north 127 00:07:33,470 --> 00:07:36,060 for a massive collision with Europe. 128 00:07:36,060 --> 00:07:39,480 Land started to rise, and that rise was gonna culminate 129 00:07:39,480 --> 00:07:40,430 in the formation of the Alps. 130 00:07:40,430 --> 00:07:42,563 And they're still moving today. 131 00:07:44,620 --> 00:07:46,240 They are the largest mountains 132 00:07:46,240 --> 00:07:47,880 in central Europe. 133 00:07:47,880 --> 00:07:50,310 The rugged 4000 meter peaks, 134 00:07:50,310 --> 00:07:52,490 including the iconic Matterhorn, 135 00:07:52,490 --> 00:07:54,840 stand in the western Alps. 136 00:07:54,840 --> 00:07:57,780 This jagged and inaccessible mountain world 137 00:07:57,780 --> 00:08:00,010 is perfect for animals adapted to life 138 00:08:00,010 --> 00:08:02,050 in the high altitudes. 139 00:08:02,050 --> 00:08:04,623 Here, they live undisturbed by man. 140 00:08:05,990 --> 00:08:07,910 Alpine chough are sociable. 141 00:08:07,910 --> 00:08:10,010 They can be found above the forest line, 142 00:08:10,010 --> 00:08:11,853 even in extreme altitudes. 143 00:08:13,830 --> 00:08:18,450 Golden eagles nest here, far from egg-hungry predators. 144 00:08:18,450 --> 00:08:21,500 Alpine ibexes are skillful climbers, 145 00:08:21,500 --> 00:08:24,200 and move safely on steep terrain. 146 00:08:24,200 --> 00:08:27,360 200 years ago, they were almost extinct. 147 00:08:27,360 --> 00:08:30,003 Today their population is slowly recovering. 148 00:08:34,280 --> 00:08:36,440 Rock ptarmigans blend seamlessly 149 00:08:36,440 --> 00:08:38,193 into the snow capped peaks. 150 00:08:40,340 --> 00:08:42,060 The high mountains are imposing symbols 151 00:08:42,060 --> 00:08:44,430 of unchanging stability. 152 00:08:44,430 --> 00:08:46,700 Monuments of eternity. 153 00:08:46,700 --> 00:08:48,583 But appearances are deceptive. 154 00:08:49,530 --> 00:08:53,540 Even mountains change, almost imperceptibly, 155 00:08:53,540 --> 00:08:54,563 but steadily. 156 00:08:59,200 --> 00:09:02,923 In the light of the warming sun, the rock expands. 157 00:09:04,290 --> 00:09:08,800 And as temperatures drop at night, the stone contracts. 158 00:09:08,800 --> 00:09:11,081 The mountain is breathing. 159 00:09:11,081 --> 00:09:13,831 (dramatic music) 160 00:09:15,300 --> 00:09:17,270 Over longer periods of time, 161 00:09:17,270 --> 00:09:20,700 the changes become larger, and more obvious. 162 00:09:20,700 --> 00:09:22,730 When the snow thaws in summer, 163 00:09:22,730 --> 00:09:25,237 heat penetrates deep into the rocks, 164 00:09:25,237 --> 00:09:27,840 making the mountains unstable. 165 00:09:27,840 --> 00:09:30,120 Rock slides can happen year round, 166 00:09:30,120 --> 00:09:32,903 but are much more frequent in the warm season. 167 00:09:32,903 --> 00:09:35,653 (loud crumbling) 168 00:09:49,791 --> 00:09:54,230 Larger movements are rare, but have enormous impact. 169 00:09:54,230 --> 00:09:56,800 In the Matter town near Randa, in Switzerland, 170 00:09:56,800 --> 00:10:01,050 an entire mountain slope started to slide in 1991. 171 00:10:01,050 --> 00:10:05,763 33 million cubic meters of stone fell into the depths. 172 00:10:06,690 --> 00:10:09,693 Slowly, the landscape changes shape. 173 00:10:10,550 --> 00:10:13,300 (dramatic music) 174 00:10:17,250 --> 00:10:20,723 The stones are gradually conveyed away by the streams. 175 00:10:24,200 --> 00:10:26,780 Water has enormous power. 176 00:10:26,780 --> 00:10:29,183 Everything is in motion. 177 00:10:29,183 --> 00:10:31,683 (light music) 178 00:10:37,640 --> 00:10:41,260 The stones wander downhill, meter by meter. 179 00:10:41,260 --> 00:10:44,814 Where the boulders settle, they form new habitats. 180 00:10:44,814 --> 00:10:47,314 (light music) 181 00:10:48,420 --> 00:10:50,520 Just like in the Swiss Prealps, 182 00:10:50,520 --> 00:10:52,839 in the valley of the Kleine Emma. 183 00:10:52,839 --> 00:10:55,422 (upbeat music) 184 00:10:57,270 --> 00:10:59,100 Each of these stones is unique, 185 00:10:59,100 --> 00:11:01,123 with its own origin and history. 186 00:11:08,800 --> 00:11:12,260 Colin Devey is on a field trip with Swiss colleagues. 187 00:11:12,260 --> 00:11:14,600 The geologists are exploring boulders 188 00:11:14,600 --> 00:11:17,090 that were carried here a long time ago. 189 00:11:17,090 --> 00:11:19,744 The old stones must be broken out. 190 00:11:19,744 --> 00:11:21,994 (cracking) 191 00:11:26,570 --> 00:11:27,520 We can pretty much tell 192 00:11:27,520 --> 00:11:29,400 where this material comes from. 193 00:11:29,400 --> 00:11:31,780 This, for example, is an ophiolite. 194 00:11:31,780 --> 00:11:33,670 It comes from the Matterhorn region. 195 00:11:33,670 --> 00:11:36,090 Likewise, we can just as accurately assign 196 00:11:36,090 --> 00:11:37,810 the origin of the remaining cobbles 197 00:11:37,810 --> 00:11:39,563 to different alpine regions. 198 00:11:41,460 --> 00:11:43,850 The expedition team heads to the mountains, 199 00:11:43,850 --> 00:11:46,453 to learn more about the history of this landscape. 200 00:11:48,510 --> 00:11:51,090 Alpine marmots prefer sunny meadows, 201 00:11:51,090 --> 00:11:54,997 where they find plenty of food, and space to romp about. 202 00:11:54,997 --> 00:11:57,497 (light music) 203 00:12:03,530 --> 00:12:05,600 Even up here there are cobbles, 204 00:12:05,600 --> 00:12:07,908 deposited millions of years ago. 205 00:12:07,908 --> 00:12:10,408 (light music) 206 00:12:15,923 --> 00:12:18,173 (cracking) 207 00:12:22,830 --> 00:12:25,230 Well, it's a river pebble. 208 00:12:25,230 --> 00:12:27,080 There's nothing spectacular about that of itself, 209 00:12:27,080 --> 00:12:31,100 but it's in a pretty spectacular and unusual place. 210 00:12:31,100 --> 00:12:33,250 I'm 1000 meters above sea level, 211 00:12:33,250 --> 00:12:35,440 halfway up a mountain in the alpine fall land, 212 00:12:35,440 --> 00:12:38,910 and obviously, in times gone past, there were rivers here. 213 00:12:38,910 --> 00:12:40,550 These rivers have brought millions 214 00:12:40,550 --> 00:12:42,980 of tons of pebbles, and deposited them here, 215 00:12:42,980 --> 00:12:44,660 layer upon layer. 216 00:12:44,660 --> 00:12:47,180 And over time, those layers have become rock, 217 00:12:47,180 --> 00:12:50,213 and built this whole mountain, the Rigi massif. 218 00:12:52,780 --> 00:12:55,600 (dramatic music) 219 00:12:55,600 --> 00:12:57,030 There's an incredible amount 220 00:12:57,030 --> 00:12:59,820 of information in this gigantic heap of cobble, 221 00:12:59,820 --> 00:13:02,530 about the Alps, and their history. 222 00:13:02,530 --> 00:13:04,910 What can be observed in a human life 223 00:13:04,910 --> 00:13:07,720 is nothing compared to the long history the Alps 224 00:13:07,720 --> 00:13:08,693 have behind them. 225 00:13:11,790 --> 00:13:14,282 A continental collision. 226 00:13:14,282 --> 00:13:16,540 (dramatic music) 227 00:13:16,540 --> 00:13:20,500 35 million years ago, there was a strait here. 228 00:13:20,500 --> 00:13:24,500 But in just 3 million years, the ocean disappears. 229 00:13:24,500 --> 00:13:26,433 Mountain formation begins. 230 00:13:28,750 --> 00:13:31,860 In another 5 million years, the Alps rise 231 00:13:31,860 --> 00:13:33,543 to become a mountain range. 232 00:13:35,800 --> 00:13:37,870 Continental plates from Africa 233 00:13:37,870 --> 00:13:40,390 push across the European continent. 234 00:13:40,390 --> 00:13:42,560 The various plates penetrate each other 235 00:13:42,560 --> 00:13:44,120 under the surface. 236 00:13:44,120 --> 00:13:47,060 And so, today, the geological border 237 00:13:47,060 --> 00:13:51,124 between Africa and Europe lies in Europe. 238 00:13:51,124 --> 00:13:53,037 (dramatic swoop) 239 00:13:53,037 --> 00:13:55,787 (dramatic music) 240 00:14:00,850 --> 00:14:04,193 The process of this collision can still be traced today. 241 00:14:07,630 --> 00:14:10,933 To a geologist, the mountains are a history book. 242 00:14:14,630 --> 00:14:17,653 Colin's looking for clues from above. 243 00:14:20,304 --> 00:14:21,560 What a way to do geology. 244 00:14:21,560 --> 00:14:23,490 My goodness, I'm having such a great time. 245 00:14:23,490 --> 00:14:24,780 This is fantastic. 246 00:14:24,780 --> 00:14:26,550 His route leads to where the collision 247 00:14:26,550 --> 00:14:27,973 is most clearly visible. 248 00:14:29,800 --> 00:14:32,610 We're flying towards the Matterhorn. 249 00:14:32,610 --> 00:14:35,283 This is of course the symbol of Switzerland. 250 00:14:36,310 --> 00:14:37,950 It's a geologist's paradise up here, 251 00:14:37,950 --> 00:14:39,350 to be quite honest with you. 252 00:14:40,520 --> 00:14:42,090 It is a beautiful mountain. 253 00:14:42,090 --> 00:14:44,937 This is really a beautiful mountain. 254 00:14:45,980 --> 00:14:49,080 The iconic peak of the steeply rising mountain 255 00:14:49,080 --> 00:14:51,323 is made of African gneiss. 256 00:15:00,995 --> 00:15:02,927 It's a fantastic way to do geology, 257 00:15:02,927 --> 00:15:05,250 especially if you're looking at large scale features 258 00:15:05,250 --> 00:15:06,683 like we are here. 259 00:15:08,350 --> 00:15:09,700 The journey continues 260 00:15:09,700 --> 00:15:13,423 from the African peak of the Matterhorn, to the north. 261 00:15:13,423 --> 00:15:16,173 (dramatic music) 262 00:15:18,550 --> 00:15:22,273 Residues of the ocean floor line this mountain ridge. 263 00:15:23,766 --> 00:15:26,203 This is part of the old ocean floor. 264 00:15:27,400 --> 00:15:29,330 It's the volcanic part of the ocean floor, 265 00:15:29,330 --> 00:15:30,163 so it was underneath all the sediments 266 00:15:30,163 --> 00:15:31,900 that had accumulated on the ocean, 267 00:15:31,900 --> 00:15:34,893 and it's made of basalts. 268 00:15:34,893 --> 00:15:37,643 (dramatic music) 269 00:15:40,033 --> 00:15:41,510 Here the chain of collision 270 00:15:41,510 --> 00:15:43,320 is perfectly lined up. 271 00:15:43,320 --> 00:15:45,870 Volcanic sea floor from the depths. 272 00:15:45,870 --> 00:15:48,273 Behind it, deposits of the Tethys Ocean. 273 00:15:51,500 --> 00:15:54,543 And finally, the old European continent. 274 00:15:58,560 --> 00:16:00,810 The meeting of continents is still reflected 275 00:16:00,810 --> 00:16:03,263 in these central sections of the Alps today. 276 00:16:10,660 --> 00:16:11,717 When you see Monte Rosa, you see, 277 00:16:11,717 --> 00:16:13,570 it's a different sort of stuff. 278 00:16:13,570 --> 00:16:14,960 It's a different type of style. 279 00:16:14,960 --> 00:16:17,060 So, it's a big, lumpy mountain. 280 00:16:17,060 --> 00:16:20,180 It's not sharp like the Matterhorn, 281 00:16:20,180 --> 00:16:23,630 and that's because it's not made of African continent. 282 00:16:23,630 --> 00:16:25,233 That thing is a piece of Europe. 283 00:16:26,130 --> 00:16:28,360 We are now flying, basically, 284 00:16:28,360 --> 00:16:30,140 what the present day would take you, 285 00:16:30,140 --> 00:16:32,330 if you had to cross the Mediterranean Sea 286 00:16:32,330 --> 00:16:33,280 with an aircraft. 287 00:16:33,280 --> 00:16:34,846 We can do it here in about three minutes, 288 00:16:34,846 --> 00:16:36,649 going between the African continent, 289 00:16:36,649 --> 00:16:38,130 and the European continent, 290 00:16:38,130 --> 00:16:40,517 and that's all to do with this huge big mishmash 291 00:16:40,517 --> 00:16:44,473 of pieces of crust, in the middle of this mountain range. 292 00:16:45,350 --> 00:16:47,320 And that mishmash leads 293 00:16:47,320 --> 00:16:49,633 to a one of a kind mountain range. 294 00:16:54,467 --> 00:16:56,810 But the natural history of the continent 295 00:16:56,810 --> 00:16:59,058 still has a long way to go. 296 00:16:59,058 --> 00:17:01,808 (dramatic music) 297 00:17:02,830 --> 00:17:06,703 50 million years ago, the African plate is picking up speed. 298 00:17:09,200 --> 00:17:11,400 When parts of it collide with Europe, 299 00:17:11,400 --> 00:17:14,140 and the Alps are lifted out of the sea, 300 00:17:14,140 --> 00:17:17,663 completely new areas emerge at the edge of this event. 301 00:17:23,070 --> 00:17:25,430 Extensive water worlds. 302 00:17:25,430 --> 00:17:29,420 A lake landscape in the far southeast of the continent. 303 00:17:29,420 --> 00:17:32,170 (dramatic music) 304 00:17:37,160 --> 00:17:39,127 Today, the Danube Delta is one 305 00:17:39,127 --> 00:17:42,293 of the most species-rich natural sites in Europe. 306 00:17:45,660 --> 00:17:50,030 A floating empire between earth, water, and air, 307 00:17:50,030 --> 00:17:51,833 on the banks of the Black Sea. 308 00:17:55,120 --> 00:17:58,830 Many migratory birds make a stopover in the region, 309 00:17:58,830 --> 00:18:01,173 and some settle to raise their young. 310 00:18:06,550 --> 00:18:09,750 More than 5000 animal and plant species 311 00:18:09,750 --> 00:18:11,122 are said to live here, 312 00:18:11,122 --> 00:18:14,423 including more than 300 bird species. 313 00:18:15,413 --> 00:18:18,163 (dramatic music) 314 00:18:22,550 --> 00:18:25,580 There are many nesting sites to discover, 315 00:18:25,580 --> 00:18:27,883 but Colin has found something else. 316 00:18:30,870 --> 00:18:33,540 So, here we have a little stowaway. 317 00:18:33,540 --> 00:18:36,650 It's a pond frog who's jumped onboard, 318 00:18:36,650 --> 00:18:41,120 and life really is in your face here. 319 00:18:41,120 --> 00:18:43,560 And it's amazing how much life there is. 320 00:18:43,560 --> 00:18:44,840 These cormorants, and all 321 00:18:44,840 --> 00:18:46,460 of the other birds flying around here 322 00:18:46,460 --> 00:18:49,013 find loads to eat in the water, it's full of fish. 323 00:18:49,900 --> 00:18:52,830 Now it's amazing environments being created by the Danube, 324 00:18:52,830 --> 00:18:55,810 here where it meets the Black Sea, and makes a delta. 325 00:18:55,810 --> 00:18:58,960 A maze of tiny channels and lakes. 326 00:18:58,960 --> 00:19:01,330 And in between them, lots of marshy areas 327 00:19:01,330 --> 00:19:02,970 which are full of reed. 328 00:19:02,970 --> 00:19:05,030 Now humans really can't get into that reed, 329 00:19:05,030 --> 00:19:06,710 and so the animals can hide in there, 330 00:19:06,710 --> 00:19:09,370 and feel safe, and that's why there's so many of them. 331 00:19:09,370 --> 00:19:12,160 In fact, this area, right in the middle of Europe, 332 00:19:12,160 --> 00:19:15,560 is the largest contiguous area of reed beds 333 00:19:15,560 --> 00:19:17,230 on the whole planet. 334 00:19:17,230 --> 00:19:18,453 It's fascinating. 335 00:19:22,400 --> 00:19:24,610 Cormorants live worldwide. 336 00:19:24,610 --> 00:19:27,110 They breed in large colonies. 337 00:19:27,110 --> 00:19:29,990 These excellent divers are not usually welcome, 338 00:19:29,990 --> 00:19:31,383 and often hunted. 339 00:19:32,800 --> 00:19:35,530 Not so in the Danube Delta. 340 00:19:35,530 --> 00:19:37,840 There is enough space here for everyone. 341 00:19:37,840 --> 00:19:41,300 Over 5000 square kilometers provides enough room 342 00:19:41,300 --> 00:19:43,494 for an enormous number of habitats. 343 00:19:43,494 --> 00:19:46,244 (dramatic music) 344 00:19:47,770 --> 00:19:50,440 Here, the mighty Danube flows slowly, 345 00:19:50,440 --> 00:19:52,429 bringing nutrients that form the base 346 00:19:52,429 --> 00:19:54,393 of a long food chain. 347 00:19:55,350 --> 00:19:59,363 There are many carp-like fish, a favorite dish of pelicans. 348 00:20:02,210 --> 00:20:05,893 The catfish migrates to the calm waters for spawning. 349 00:20:07,138 --> 00:20:09,960 (splashing) 350 00:20:09,960 --> 00:20:13,100 This is the largest pelican colony in Europe. 351 00:20:13,100 --> 00:20:15,853 The majority come from Africa every spring. 352 00:20:17,160 --> 00:20:20,100 It's also a perfect place for the kingfisher. 353 00:20:20,100 --> 00:20:23,690 It observes the water from its lookout on the shore. 354 00:20:23,690 --> 00:20:27,194 Kingfishers are dependent on calm, clear water. 355 00:20:27,194 --> 00:20:29,694 (light music) 356 00:20:31,980 --> 00:20:35,130 Many of these birds travel between worlds. 357 00:20:35,130 --> 00:20:39,742 They split their years between Europe, Africa, and Asia. 358 00:20:39,742 --> 00:20:42,242 (light music) 359 00:20:55,550 --> 00:20:58,680 The Danube Delta is a sheltered meeting point 360 00:20:58,680 --> 00:21:00,003 between the continents, 361 00:21:03,120 --> 00:21:05,523 where they can successfully raise their young. 362 00:21:07,851 --> 00:21:08,684 Hey Colin, here. 363 00:21:08,684 --> 00:21:09,650 Yeah. 364 00:21:09,650 --> 00:21:11,913 Colin has an unusual encounter. 365 00:21:13,126 --> 00:21:15,380 (dramatic music) 366 00:21:15,380 --> 00:21:18,300 A golden jackal roused the birds. 367 00:21:18,300 --> 00:21:21,453 In the early morning, it comes very close to the shore. 368 00:21:26,160 --> 00:21:28,550 Golden jackals have only been seen here 369 00:21:28,550 --> 00:21:31,090 for a few years in the Danube Delta. 370 00:21:31,090 --> 00:21:34,743 Their real home lies far away on the Arabian Peninsula. 371 00:21:36,120 --> 00:21:38,532 We saw the jackals for the first time this morning. 372 00:21:38,532 --> 00:21:40,980 And in fact, jackals have only been in this area 373 00:21:40,980 --> 00:21:42,010 for the last few years. 374 00:21:42,010 --> 00:21:47,010 They're slowly migrating into this region from the south. 375 00:21:47,250 --> 00:21:48,543 Now that type of animal migration 376 00:21:48,543 --> 00:21:51,280 has happened time and again in earth's history, 377 00:21:51,280 --> 00:21:53,020 and is really important for the evolution 378 00:21:53,020 --> 00:21:54,200 of life on earth. 379 00:21:54,200 --> 00:21:57,160 But to migrate, the animals need pathways 380 00:21:57,160 --> 00:21:58,210 that they can follow. 381 00:21:59,290 --> 00:22:00,390 Let's go back in time. 382 00:22:02,740 --> 00:22:04,500 This is the Tethyan Ocean, 383 00:22:04,500 --> 00:22:06,770 and it's slowly being squeezed shut, 384 00:22:06,770 --> 00:22:09,253 as Africa comes towards Europe. 385 00:22:10,600 --> 00:22:11,970 About 20 million years ago, 386 00:22:11,970 --> 00:22:14,120 the first land bridges are produced, 387 00:22:14,120 --> 00:22:16,810 and they divide the Tethys up into sub-basins. 388 00:22:16,810 --> 00:22:18,377 These are the precursors of the Mediterranean, 389 00:22:18,377 --> 00:22:21,260 and the Black Sea, and the Caspian Sea. 390 00:22:21,260 --> 00:22:23,340 And these land bridges are the important things, 391 00:22:23,340 --> 00:22:25,300 and especially their coastal regions. 392 00:22:25,300 --> 00:22:27,630 They allow the animals to migrate northwards 393 00:22:27,630 --> 00:22:30,460 and southwards, to meet, and mix. 394 00:22:30,460 --> 00:22:32,030 It's very similar to what's happening 395 00:22:32,030 --> 00:22:34,350 in the Danube Delta today. 396 00:22:34,350 --> 00:22:37,210 The Danube, of course, is a fairly recent phenomenon 397 00:22:37,210 --> 00:22:39,480 on our planet, and 20 million years ago, 398 00:22:39,480 --> 00:22:41,000 the coastline wasn't here, 399 00:22:41,000 --> 00:22:43,060 it was much further in the west. 400 00:22:43,060 --> 00:22:44,198 So if we want to find the evidence 401 00:22:44,198 --> 00:22:46,760 for the mixing that happened back then, 402 00:22:46,760 --> 00:22:48,923 we need to go upriver. 403 00:22:48,923 --> 00:22:51,673 (dramatic music) 404 00:22:52,980 --> 00:22:55,600 Ancient Europe also had a habitat, 405 00:22:55,600 --> 00:22:57,473 similar to the Danube Delta. 406 00:23:01,290 --> 00:23:03,510 But the coastline was further to the west, 407 00:23:03,510 --> 00:23:04,943 at the foot of the Alps. 408 00:23:07,610 --> 00:23:09,600 Today that same location is covered 409 00:23:09,600 --> 00:23:12,804 by a metropolis, with almost three million people. 410 00:23:12,804 --> 00:23:15,554 (dramatic music) 411 00:23:19,140 --> 00:23:22,557 Vienna, the pulsating city on the Danube. 412 00:23:22,557 --> 00:23:25,307 (dramatic music) 413 00:23:28,850 --> 00:23:30,770 A popular destination for tourists 414 00:23:30,770 --> 00:23:32,650 from all over the world. 415 00:23:32,650 --> 00:23:34,790 They visit the historical monuments, 416 00:23:34,790 --> 00:23:36,950 vestiges of a great past, 417 00:23:36,950 --> 00:23:39,625 and center of a former empire. 418 00:23:39,625 --> 00:23:42,375 (dramatic music) 419 00:23:47,810 --> 00:23:50,700 The Schonbrunn Palace, a magical place, 420 00:23:50,700 --> 00:23:52,913 reminiscent of times long gone. 421 00:23:56,480 --> 00:24:00,110 20 million years ago, in the Miocene, 422 00:24:00,110 --> 00:24:02,470 migrants came from Africa. 423 00:24:02,470 --> 00:24:04,320 An aceratherium. 424 00:24:04,320 --> 00:24:05,880 Except for the missing horn, 425 00:24:05,880 --> 00:24:08,105 it resembles today's rhinoceros. 426 00:24:08,105 --> 00:24:10,855 (dramatic music) 427 00:24:15,840 --> 00:24:19,820 Bear dogs, predators who emigrated from America, 428 00:24:19,820 --> 00:24:23,300 meet chalicotherium, odd looking herbivores, 429 00:24:23,300 --> 00:24:26,110 who stand 2 1/2 meters tall. 430 00:24:26,110 --> 00:24:30,023 The impressive giants walk on their knuckles, like gorillas. 431 00:24:35,430 --> 00:24:38,010 With its mild climate, Vienna is considered 432 00:24:38,010 --> 00:24:40,423 one of the most livable cities in the world. 433 00:24:44,067 --> 00:24:47,250 (grass rustling) 434 00:24:47,250 --> 00:24:49,940 A similar climate is also appreciated 435 00:24:49,940 --> 00:24:52,424 by the deinotherium, a proboscidean 436 00:24:52,424 --> 00:24:55,920 with downward curved tusks in the lower jaw. 437 00:24:55,920 --> 00:24:59,050 These prehistoric relatives of modern day elephants 438 00:24:59,050 --> 00:25:01,463 use their tusks to peel off bark. 439 00:25:06,870 --> 00:25:10,000 Where today the woods border the outskirts of the city, 440 00:25:10,000 --> 00:25:14,290 20 million years ago, swamp forests stretched to the sea. 441 00:25:14,290 --> 00:25:15,890 The climate is warm. 442 00:25:15,890 --> 00:25:19,740 Towards the sea, the landscape changes into mangroves. 443 00:25:19,740 --> 00:25:24,434 Along the coast, there are oyster beds, and mussel colonies. 444 00:25:24,434 --> 00:25:26,934 (light music) 445 00:25:31,130 --> 00:25:34,800 Later, the area transforms into a river landscape, 446 00:25:34,800 --> 00:25:36,410 dotted with swamps. 447 00:25:36,410 --> 00:25:38,910 Flocks of birds cross the area. 448 00:25:38,910 --> 00:25:42,030 It's the forerunner of today's Danube Delta, 449 00:25:42,030 --> 00:25:43,913 a species rich hotspot. 450 00:25:45,410 --> 00:25:48,480 And so Vienna is, then as now, 451 00:25:48,480 --> 00:25:51,121 an international meeting place. 452 00:25:51,121 --> 00:25:53,871 (dramatic music) 453 00:26:04,460 --> 00:26:07,670 But not all of Europe is as coveted. 454 00:26:07,670 --> 00:26:10,433 This continent has its badlands too. 455 00:26:11,418 --> 00:26:14,168 (dramatic music) 456 00:26:18,200 --> 00:26:20,580 I know this looks like Africa or North America, 457 00:26:20,580 --> 00:26:21,740 but it isn't. 458 00:26:21,740 --> 00:26:22,740 It's Europe. 459 00:26:22,740 --> 00:26:25,720 We're in Europe's only desert, in southwest Spain. 460 00:26:25,720 --> 00:26:27,910 A place called Tabernas. 461 00:26:27,910 --> 00:26:30,632 They filmed lots of the spaghetti westerns here. 462 00:26:30,632 --> 00:26:32,791 And the landscape is so fascinating, 463 00:26:32,791 --> 00:26:34,891 I'm gonna have to get out and have a look. 464 00:26:36,700 --> 00:26:39,070 In fact, the desert isn't as barren 465 00:26:39,070 --> 00:26:41,493 and empty as it looks at first glance. 466 00:26:42,800 --> 00:26:45,560 Red-legged partridges are very adaptable. 467 00:26:45,560 --> 00:26:48,963 They cope well with aridity, and the rocky desert soil. 468 00:26:51,720 --> 00:26:55,733 Iberian ibexes also enjoy the sparsely vegetated area. 469 00:26:57,630 --> 00:27:00,170 In winter, they come down from the snowy mountains 470 00:27:00,170 --> 00:27:01,833 to find food in the desert. 471 00:27:02,690 --> 00:27:04,398 In the barren terrain, the shy animals 472 00:27:04,398 --> 00:27:06,483 have everything well in view. 473 00:27:07,666 --> 00:27:10,416 (dramatic music) 474 00:27:14,230 --> 00:27:17,763 A few rainy days are enough to make the desert bloom. 475 00:27:20,110 --> 00:27:23,640 Many plant seeds rest in the soil during drought. 476 00:27:23,640 --> 00:27:25,713 A little water wakes them up. 477 00:27:28,370 --> 00:27:30,540 The colorful splendor cannot hide 478 00:27:30,540 --> 00:27:32,770 how extreme the desert is. 479 00:27:32,770 --> 00:27:36,825 In summer, the temperatures reach up to 50 degrees celsius. 480 00:27:36,825 --> 00:27:39,325 (light music) 481 00:27:41,150 --> 00:27:43,030 That's when it becomes a tough fight 482 00:27:43,030 --> 00:27:47,472 against water shortages, and extreme heat, for everyone. 483 00:27:47,472 --> 00:27:49,972 (light music) 484 00:27:54,460 --> 00:27:57,330 Many of these plants also live in Africa, 485 00:27:57,330 --> 00:28:00,533 but the European desert has some special features. 486 00:28:08,420 --> 00:28:10,219 This is a typical desert, 487 00:28:10,219 --> 00:28:12,260 which despite what you might think, 488 00:28:12,260 --> 00:28:15,420 doesn't actually mean it has to be really hot. 489 00:28:15,420 --> 00:28:18,740 It's December, and I'm quite comfortable dressed like this. 490 00:28:18,740 --> 00:28:21,810 Above all else, a desert is dry. 491 00:28:21,810 --> 00:28:24,750 I've just walked up this river valley behind me. 492 00:28:24,750 --> 00:28:28,030 It's got a couple of puddles in it, nothing much else. 493 00:28:28,030 --> 00:28:29,050 In an environment like this, 494 00:28:29,050 --> 00:28:31,710 you might expect to find cacti growing. 495 00:28:31,710 --> 00:28:33,933 What we actually find are these plants. 496 00:28:36,540 --> 00:28:40,940 Now, anyone who's been to the beach knows things like this. 497 00:28:40,940 --> 00:28:43,963 They've got very salty juice. 498 00:28:45,270 --> 00:28:48,220 The people here put them on salads. 499 00:28:48,220 --> 00:28:52,180 Here's another salty kind of plant. 500 00:28:52,180 --> 00:28:55,710 It's producing little deposits of salt on its leaves. 501 00:28:55,710 --> 00:28:58,120 Now both of these are the types of plants 502 00:28:58,120 --> 00:29:00,740 you'd expect to find at the seaside, 503 00:29:00,740 --> 00:29:02,490 rather than the middle of a desert. 504 00:29:04,560 --> 00:29:07,160 If a lot of salt is present in the soil, 505 00:29:07,160 --> 00:29:09,113 it will affect the local biosphere. 506 00:29:12,670 --> 00:29:15,390 In fact, there are places in the Tabernas 507 00:29:15,390 --> 00:29:17,743 with small stalactite formations. 508 00:29:21,010 --> 00:29:23,040 And where water evaporates, 509 00:29:23,040 --> 00:29:26,616 delicate salt crystals slowly grow. 510 00:29:26,616 --> 00:29:29,366 (dramatic music) 511 00:29:42,250 --> 00:29:46,453 Over many years, an entire salt wall has formed. 512 00:29:48,920 --> 00:29:51,770 Wow, and this is what I was looking for. 513 00:29:51,770 --> 00:29:54,710 There's ground water seeping out of this cliff face, 514 00:29:54,710 --> 00:29:56,830 bringing all sorts of minerals with it, 515 00:29:56,830 --> 00:30:00,160 and when you taste the water, it's really salty. 516 00:30:00,160 --> 00:30:02,640 A lot of these minerals in here are rock salt. 517 00:30:02,640 --> 00:30:04,110 That's telling us deep underground, 518 00:30:04,110 --> 00:30:06,920 there must be vast deposits of salt, 519 00:30:06,920 --> 00:30:08,217 and that's telling us that, 520 00:30:08,217 --> 00:30:10,010 where today there's a desert, 521 00:30:10,010 --> 00:30:11,310 there used to be an ocean. 522 00:30:13,270 --> 00:30:16,750 This desert landscape was once a sea floor. 523 00:30:16,750 --> 00:30:19,212 The coastal area of an ocean. 524 00:30:19,212 --> 00:30:21,962 (dramatic music) 525 00:30:24,320 --> 00:30:28,210 Today, the Tabernas lies at the foot of a mountain range, 526 00:30:28,210 --> 00:30:29,713 the Betic Cordillera. 527 00:30:31,970 --> 00:30:34,420 And only 20 kilometers further south 528 00:30:34,420 --> 00:30:36,820 lies the Mediterranean coast, 529 00:30:36,820 --> 00:30:39,113 with the famous sand beaches of Andalucia. 530 00:30:40,177 --> 00:30:42,927 (dramatic music) 531 00:30:47,290 --> 00:30:50,580 And this is where the desert meets the seawater. 532 00:30:50,580 --> 00:30:52,890 This coastline, in terms of geological process, 533 00:30:52,890 --> 00:30:54,070 is not at all fixed. 534 00:30:54,070 --> 00:30:56,070 It depends completely on how much water's 535 00:30:56,070 --> 00:30:57,580 in the Mediterranean. 536 00:30:57,580 --> 00:30:59,353 And the Mediterranean itself is just a part 537 00:30:59,353 --> 00:31:01,260 of the Atlantic Ocean. 538 00:31:01,260 --> 00:31:04,400 They're connected of course via the Straits of Gibraltar. 539 00:31:04,400 --> 00:31:06,620 But it wasn't always like that. 540 00:31:06,620 --> 00:31:09,560 If we go back in time several million years, 541 00:31:09,560 --> 00:31:11,190 we see that there are two channels 542 00:31:11,190 --> 00:31:13,910 connecting the Atlantic to the Mediterranean. 543 00:31:13,910 --> 00:31:16,770 And then something happened geologically. 544 00:31:16,770 --> 00:31:20,860 A mountain range rises up around Gibraltar, 545 00:31:20,860 --> 00:31:23,540 and it cuts off both of those channels. 546 00:31:23,540 --> 00:31:25,230 That's the same movement in fact 547 00:31:25,230 --> 00:31:28,713 which lifted the Tabernas Desert out of the Mediterranean. 548 00:31:29,960 --> 00:31:31,690 There's no more water coming from the Atlantic 549 00:31:31,690 --> 00:31:34,070 into the Mediterranean, so it dries out, 550 00:31:34,070 --> 00:31:36,763 and a huge salty desert is produced. 551 00:31:37,880 --> 00:31:40,310 That process six million years ago 552 00:31:40,310 --> 00:31:42,963 influenced the whole of the Mediterranean region. 553 00:31:46,470 --> 00:31:48,250 At this time, the landscape 554 00:31:48,250 --> 00:31:50,550 is already similar to today's, 555 00:31:50,550 --> 00:31:54,100 but then the water begins to gradually retreat, 556 00:31:54,100 --> 00:31:55,260 and it leaves its mark, 557 00:31:55,260 --> 00:31:58,680 a mighty layer of salt that can still be traced 558 00:31:58,680 --> 00:32:00,833 in the soil of the Mediterranean Sea. 559 00:32:02,380 --> 00:32:05,890 It's an area with vastly different landscapes, 560 00:32:05,890 --> 00:32:08,647 but life has a hard time in this desert. 561 00:32:08,647 --> 00:32:11,397 (dramatic music) 562 00:32:19,130 --> 00:32:22,880 In the middle, the last remnants of seawater collect 563 00:32:22,880 --> 00:32:25,823 and form highly concentrated puddles of salt. 564 00:32:29,530 --> 00:32:32,480 A breeding ground for stromatolites, 565 00:32:32,480 --> 00:32:37,060 sedimentary rocks produced by salt loving microorganisms. 566 00:32:37,060 --> 00:32:39,670 Very simple, old forms of life, 567 00:32:39,670 --> 00:32:41,443 that have survived to this day. 568 00:32:43,580 --> 00:32:47,270 High rock formations rise from the desert floor. 569 00:32:47,270 --> 00:32:49,390 These large mountain ranges tower 570 00:32:49,390 --> 00:32:52,280 more than 3000 meters high. 571 00:32:52,280 --> 00:32:53,980 We know these mountains. 572 00:32:53,980 --> 00:32:56,123 Today, they are the Balearics. 573 00:32:59,600 --> 00:33:00,433 Mallorca. 574 00:33:03,710 --> 00:33:06,760 The island mountains provide better living conditions 575 00:33:06,760 --> 00:33:08,483 than the expanse of the desert. 576 00:33:14,620 --> 00:33:18,280 Six million years ago, the entire Mediterranean area 577 00:33:18,280 --> 00:33:20,930 forms a gigantic depression. 578 00:33:20,930 --> 00:33:23,520 In the coastal area, the continental shelf 579 00:33:23,520 --> 00:33:26,780 of mainland Europe rises 1000 meters 580 00:33:26,780 --> 00:33:28,441 above the desert floor. 581 00:33:28,441 --> 00:33:31,191 (dramatic music) 582 00:33:32,780 --> 00:33:35,120 The water of the great European rivers, 583 00:33:35,120 --> 00:33:37,770 such as the Rhone, falls many meters 584 00:33:37,770 --> 00:33:41,602 over long cascades, and cuts canyons into the bedrock. 585 00:33:41,602 --> 00:33:44,352 (dramatic music) 586 00:33:51,080 --> 00:33:53,600 Traces of this period can still be found 587 00:33:53,600 --> 00:33:57,026 in the underwater landscapes of the Mediterranean. 588 00:33:57,026 --> 00:34:00,943 (dramatic music and splashing) 589 00:34:09,850 --> 00:34:13,440 The Rhone is still a river with a strong current. 590 00:34:13,440 --> 00:34:16,920 In a vast delta, it flows into the Mediterranean, 591 00:34:16,920 --> 00:34:18,988 and creates the unique natural paradise 592 00:34:18,988 --> 00:34:21,266 of the Camargue. 593 00:34:21,266 --> 00:34:23,849 (upbeat music) 594 00:34:26,950 --> 00:34:29,060 But the wild canyons of the past 595 00:34:29,060 --> 00:34:30,563 can only be found inland. 596 00:34:34,200 --> 00:34:36,920 Many of the typical caves and cast landscapes 597 00:34:36,920 --> 00:34:39,720 of the Mediterranean, such as the Adeje, 598 00:34:39,720 --> 00:34:43,050 originated in a time when there was an extreme gradient 599 00:34:43,050 --> 00:34:44,800 along the coast of the sea, 600 00:34:44,800 --> 00:34:48,043 and water crashed into the depths with heavy impact. 601 00:34:50,758 --> 00:34:53,091 (splashing) 602 00:35:00,010 --> 00:35:03,653 The sea has long since recovered from its dramatic past. 603 00:35:05,010 --> 00:35:07,890 The Mediterranean didn't stay dry for very long. 604 00:35:07,890 --> 00:35:09,580 The Atlantic pretty quickly found a way 605 00:35:09,580 --> 00:35:11,580 through that mountain range, 606 00:35:11,580 --> 00:35:14,323 and the sea came back, flooding the salty desert. 607 00:35:15,230 --> 00:35:18,293 It must have been a really dramatic event. 608 00:35:19,210 --> 00:35:20,950 Although I have to admit, on such a beautiful day 609 00:35:20,950 --> 00:35:23,740 on the beach like this, I can hardly imagine it. 610 00:35:27,730 --> 00:35:31,155 Colin enjoys the last sun rays of the day. 611 00:35:31,155 --> 00:35:34,380 In the next chapter of European natural history, 612 00:35:34,380 --> 00:35:36,423 colder times lie ahead. 613 00:35:39,840 --> 00:35:43,613 The ice age began about 2.7 million years ago. 614 00:35:46,540 --> 00:35:49,673 But what did cold times mean for life on earth? 615 00:35:56,600 --> 00:36:00,290 Iceland is one of the northernmost landscapes in Europe, 616 00:36:00,290 --> 00:36:02,810 with many echoes of the ice age. 617 00:36:02,810 --> 00:36:05,863 Here, nature's power is palpable. 618 00:36:09,890 --> 00:36:13,523 Both beautiful, and unforgiving. 619 00:36:16,640 --> 00:36:19,970 The island is made up of two different continents. 620 00:36:19,970 --> 00:36:22,550 The active gap between the North American 621 00:36:22,550 --> 00:36:26,400 and European plates runs across the country. 622 00:36:26,400 --> 00:36:29,750 The energy from the earth's interior makes itself felt 623 00:36:29,750 --> 00:36:31,053 in many places. 624 00:36:36,710 --> 00:36:39,670 There are comparatively few animal species. 625 00:36:39,670 --> 00:36:43,013 (birds squawking) 626 00:36:43,013 --> 00:36:45,513 (light music) 627 00:36:47,440 --> 00:36:50,663 The Icelandic horses were brought in by settlers. 628 00:36:55,370 --> 00:36:58,960 Inland, the ground is permanently frozen. 629 00:36:58,960 --> 00:37:00,850 Before the first humans arrived, 630 00:37:00,850 --> 00:37:04,020 the Arctic fox was the only native mammal. 631 00:37:04,020 --> 00:37:06,770 (dramatic music) 632 00:37:08,030 --> 00:37:11,620 Gigantic glaciers cover large parts of the island, 633 00:37:11,620 --> 00:37:13,390 and shape the environment, 634 00:37:13,390 --> 00:37:16,203 just like in central Europe during the ice ages. 635 00:37:19,264 --> 00:37:22,640 Vatnajokull is the largest glacier in Europe, 636 00:37:22,640 --> 00:37:25,653 up to 900 meters thick in some areas. 637 00:37:30,640 --> 00:37:32,470 Wow, it's impressive here. 638 00:37:32,470 --> 00:37:35,750 You can almost feel the weight of the ice above your head. 639 00:37:35,750 --> 00:37:37,220 I don't know how much is up there, 640 00:37:37,220 --> 00:37:38,950 and I really don't want to know. 641 00:37:38,950 --> 00:37:40,430 This used to be snow. 642 00:37:40,430 --> 00:37:42,752 Several hundred years ago it fell upon the mountains, 643 00:37:42,752 --> 00:37:45,170 and through its own weight it's been compacted down 644 00:37:45,170 --> 00:37:47,398 to this beautifully clear ice. 645 00:37:47,398 --> 00:37:49,180 It's a really bizarre feeling. 646 00:37:49,180 --> 00:37:51,457 You can look into here, meters. 647 00:37:51,457 --> 00:37:53,060 You feel as if you can, at least, 648 00:37:53,060 --> 00:37:56,100 but actually this ice is continually on the move. 649 00:37:56,100 --> 00:37:57,840 It's continually being produced, 650 00:37:57,840 --> 00:37:59,600 and continually melting. 651 00:37:59,600 --> 00:38:01,730 And ice ages are a bit like that. 652 00:38:01,730 --> 00:38:03,070 Constantly coming and going. 653 00:38:03,070 --> 00:38:04,870 We've had several on earth. 654 00:38:04,870 --> 00:38:08,973 We define and ice age as being when both poles are frozen. 655 00:38:09,960 --> 00:38:11,630 But sometime in the past, 656 00:38:11,630 --> 00:38:14,560 maybe the whole earth was completely frozen. 657 00:38:14,560 --> 00:38:16,019 The last ice age we had 658 00:38:16,019 --> 00:38:18,980 began about 2 1/2 million years ago. 659 00:38:18,980 --> 00:38:21,240 And we can see, although we call it as ice age, 660 00:38:21,240 --> 00:38:24,040 it's actually a really complicated thing. 661 00:38:24,040 --> 00:38:25,580 It's not just one mass of ice. 662 00:38:25,580 --> 00:38:28,525 The ice comes and goes, comes and goes. 663 00:38:28,525 --> 00:38:32,140 That slight cooling or warming of the earth, 664 00:38:32,140 --> 00:38:34,650 which leads to the ice advancing, or retreating. 665 00:38:34,650 --> 00:38:36,990 Now, why exactly those slight cooling 666 00:38:36,990 --> 00:38:40,612 or warming episodes occur, we're not quite clear. 667 00:38:40,612 --> 00:38:45,440 The last really cold period ended about 10,000 years ago. 668 00:38:45,440 --> 00:38:47,730 Since then, the ice is retreating. 669 00:38:47,730 --> 00:38:49,620 You can hear the running water behind me. 670 00:38:49,620 --> 00:38:51,450 That's a meltwater stream. 671 00:38:51,450 --> 00:38:53,370 So in fact this glacier is disappearing, 672 00:38:53,370 --> 00:38:55,650 and probably this beautiful ice cave 673 00:38:55,650 --> 00:38:57,634 may not be here next year. 674 00:38:57,634 --> 00:38:59,960 (dramatic music) 675 00:38:59,960 --> 00:39:03,533 Everywhere ice melts, life is gaining ground. 676 00:39:04,610 --> 00:39:09,240 Special green algae can exist even under icy conditions, 677 00:39:09,240 --> 00:39:11,420 and even microscopic animals, 678 00:39:11,420 --> 00:39:14,833 such as the water bears, survive in extreme cold. 679 00:39:17,760 --> 00:39:19,470 But for most living beings, 680 00:39:19,470 --> 00:39:22,020 a world of ice is problematic. 681 00:39:22,020 --> 00:39:23,810 That's why during the ice age, 682 00:39:23,810 --> 00:39:26,363 life thrives only beyond the great glaciers. 683 00:39:30,785 --> 00:39:33,340 The mammoth and woolly rhinoceros 684 00:39:33,340 --> 00:39:35,720 are the giants of the ice age. 685 00:39:35,720 --> 00:39:37,790 They wander in search of food. 686 00:39:37,790 --> 00:39:39,773 Nutritious herbs, for example. 687 00:39:45,944 --> 00:39:48,650 (dramatic swoop) 688 00:39:48,650 --> 00:39:51,290 About 15,000 years ago, the glaciers 689 00:39:51,290 --> 00:39:54,050 are slowly releasing the continent. 690 00:39:54,050 --> 00:39:56,253 This creates unique habitats. 691 00:39:59,540 --> 00:40:01,790 The ice ages also show us 692 00:40:01,790 --> 00:40:04,883 how fleeting landscapes on our earth can be. 693 00:40:06,460 --> 00:40:08,470 With fluctuating temperatures, 694 00:40:08,470 --> 00:40:11,190 living conditions change incredibly quickly, 695 00:40:11,190 --> 00:40:13,556 from a natural history point of view. 696 00:40:13,556 --> 00:40:16,306 (dramatic music) 697 00:40:19,670 --> 00:40:22,240 Witnesses from the past still stand 698 00:40:22,240 --> 00:40:24,143 on the northeast coast of England. 699 00:40:28,620 --> 00:40:31,243 They remind us of a land long gone. 700 00:40:32,280 --> 00:40:35,690 This is glacial clay. 701 00:40:35,690 --> 00:40:39,030 Left here 10,000 years ago as the world got warmer, 702 00:40:39,030 --> 00:40:40,910 and the ice retreated. 703 00:40:40,910 --> 00:40:42,880 Now there was no North Sea here at that time, 704 00:40:42,880 --> 00:40:46,030 because sea level was much lower, about 100 meters, 705 00:40:46,030 --> 00:40:50,190 and this sort of plastered landscape 706 00:40:50,190 --> 00:40:52,050 caused huge peat bogs to form. 707 00:40:52,050 --> 00:40:54,563 There's lots of peat here, as you can see. 708 00:40:56,280 --> 00:40:57,980 And even trees. 709 00:40:57,980 --> 00:41:02,200 This is a 7000 year old tree stump. 710 00:41:02,200 --> 00:41:03,700 It's got its roots. 711 00:41:03,700 --> 00:41:05,350 There are branches lying around here. 712 00:41:05,350 --> 00:41:07,730 There are remainders of leaves. 713 00:41:07,730 --> 00:41:10,290 This is like looking at an ancient forest fossil, 714 00:41:10,290 --> 00:41:11,890 absolutely fascinating. 715 00:41:11,890 --> 00:41:14,260 Now this forest, straight from here, 716 00:41:14,260 --> 00:41:15,200 right over to France, 717 00:41:15,200 --> 00:41:18,880 and you could walk to France from here, 7000 years ago. 718 00:41:18,880 --> 00:41:20,950 The stone age people who lived here, 719 00:41:20,950 --> 00:41:24,120 found absolutely ideal conditions. 720 00:41:24,120 --> 00:41:25,470 There was lots of game. 721 00:41:25,470 --> 00:41:27,390 There were lots of fish. 722 00:41:27,390 --> 00:41:30,243 But this paradise was fairly quickly lost. 723 00:41:32,750 --> 00:41:35,250 Doggerland, a perfect moment 724 00:41:35,250 --> 00:41:37,180 in the history of the earth. 725 00:41:37,180 --> 00:41:40,400 The receding ice is first followed by light. 726 00:41:40,400 --> 00:41:43,760 Then, increasingly dense forests. 727 00:41:43,760 --> 00:41:45,113 Fertile soil. 728 00:41:46,090 --> 00:41:47,550 It's getting warmer. 729 00:41:47,550 --> 00:41:51,560 Sea eagles find plenty of fish in coastal waters. 730 00:41:51,560 --> 00:41:53,540 The animal world is changing. 731 00:41:53,540 --> 00:41:55,360 Instead of wandering mammoths, 732 00:41:55,360 --> 00:41:57,573 there are other four legged herbivores. 733 00:41:59,190 --> 00:42:02,870 They are local animals, such as deer, wild boar, 734 00:42:02,870 --> 00:42:06,510 or roe deer, who do not need to migrate, 735 00:42:06,510 --> 00:42:09,833 because they find enough food on the planes all year round. 736 00:42:12,420 --> 00:42:13,980 But the history of the forests 737 00:42:13,980 --> 00:42:16,941 between England and France ends soon. 738 00:42:16,941 --> 00:42:19,524 (upbeat music) 739 00:42:20,490 --> 00:42:22,340 The shrinking ice of the glaciers 740 00:42:22,340 --> 00:42:25,100 causes sea levels to rise. 741 00:42:25,100 --> 00:42:27,010 The soils become salted, 742 00:42:27,010 --> 00:42:30,070 and the landscape sinks into the sea. 743 00:42:30,070 --> 00:42:33,416 The British island is separated from mainland Europe. 744 00:42:33,416 --> 00:42:36,166 (dramatic music) 745 00:42:38,080 --> 00:42:41,750 Only the remains of ancient trees on the English coast 746 00:42:41,750 --> 00:42:45,603 bare witness to the paradise of the last ice age. 747 00:42:49,940 --> 00:42:50,773 Doggerland. 748 00:42:57,697 --> 00:42:59,240 A view from space shows 749 00:42:59,240 --> 00:43:02,040 how much man changes his surroundings. 750 00:43:02,040 --> 00:43:05,653 Europe's major metropolises shine brightly at night. 751 00:43:07,340 --> 00:43:10,103 Far down south, the Gulf of Naples. 752 00:43:13,030 --> 00:43:16,470 A dark area is particularly conspicuous, 753 00:43:16,470 --> 00:43:19,053 in the middle of the brightly lit urban area. 754 00:43:20,280 --> 00:43:22,160 Mount Vesuvius. 755 00:43:22,160 --> 00:43:24,363 No people live on its slopes. 756 00:43:25,240 --> 00:43:27,960 Naples in the early morning. 757 00:43:27,960 --> 00:43:30,180 It's quiet in the big city. 758 00:43:30,180 --> 00:43:32,450 A deceptive calm. 759 00:43:32,450 --> 00:43:34,780 The Neapolitan people know that, 760 00:43:34,780 --> 00:43:36,350 not only because in a few minutes, 761 00:43:36,350 --> 00:43:38,640 life awakens in the streets, 762 00:43:38,640 --> 00:43:40,317 but because there is always a hint 763 00:43:40,317 --> 00:43:43,021 of great danger in the air. 764 00:43:43,021 --> 00:43:45,771 (dramatic music) 765 00:43:51,110 --> 00:43:52,483 Roman columns. 766 00:43:54,490 --> 00:43:58,113 These are the walls of an historical city: Pompeii. 767 00:44:04,419 --> 00:44:07,090 About 20,000 people are said to have lived here, 768 00:44:07,090 --> 00:44:09,173 in the year 79 A.D. 769 00:44:11,900 --> 00:44:15,060 Wealthy Romans, who led a privileged life, 770 00:44:15,060 --> 00:44:17,360 supported by slaves. 771 00:44:17,360 --> 00:44:22,360 A functioning society, until disaster struck. 772 00:44:22,914 --> 00:44:25,664 (dramatic music) 773 00:44:29,990 --> 00:44:31,607 Exceptional. 774 00:44:31,607 --> 00:44:34,357 (dramatic music) 775 00:44:40,800 --> 00:44:43,020 The atmosphere in this town is bizarre. 776 00:44:43,020 --> 00:44:43,853 It feels as if there ought 777 00:44:43,853 --> 00:44:46,450 to be Romans running backwards and forwards. 778 00:44:46,450 --> 00:44:48,440 In fact it's completely still. 779 00:44:48,440 --> 00:44:50,593 And it's been that way for 2000 years. 780 00:44:51,824 --> 00:44:54,430 On the 24th of August, 79 A.D., 781 00:44:54,430 --> 00:44:57,140 Vesuvius had a cataclysmic eruption. 782 00:44:57,140 --> 00:44:59,210 Now some of the Pompeiians could flee, 783 00:44:59,210 --> 00:45:01,250 but most of them stayed in the town, 784 00:45:01,250 --> 00:45:03,020 and that was their undoing. 785 00:45:03,020 --> 00:45:05,640 As the hot ash clouds rolled down the side of the volcano, 786 00:45:05,640 --> 00:45:09,410 they were buried in their beds, turned instantly to stone. 787 00:45:09,410 --> 00:45:11,340 And what's amazing is that they were so surprised 788 00:45:11,340 --> 00:45:14,100 by this volcano, because it certainly wasn't the first time 789 00:45:14,100 --> 00:45:15,503 the Vesuvius had erupted. 790 00:45:18,010 --> 00:45:20,140 When the city was unearthed, 791 00:45:20,140 --> 00:45:23,193 archeologists found more than just ruins. 792 00:45:24,110 --> 00:45:27,720 Forms that human bodies left in the hot ashes. 793 00:45:27,720 --> 00:45:32,110 Impressive freeze frames of a devastating catastrophe. 794 00:45:32,110 --> 00:45:35,170 About 1000 such bodies were found, 795 00:45:35,170 --> 00:45:38,743 but the total number of victims was many times higher. 796 00:45:41,038 --> 00:45:43,788 (dramatic music) 797 00:45:50,990 --> 00:45:53,800 The old volcano, with its long history, 798 00:45:53,800 --> 00:45:56,253 still towers above it all today. 799 00:45:59,090 --> 00:46:02,550 The ancient crater structures still hold the traces 800 00:46:02,550 --> 00:46:04,778 of past eruptions. 801 00:46:04,778 --> 00:46:07,528 (dramatic music) 802 00:46:11,460 --> 00:46:15,210 The history of the volcano begins 400,000 years ago. 803 00:46:15,210 --> 00:46:18,383 The first volcanic activity manifests itself. 804 00:46:19,720 --> 00:46:22,410 A mountain is building up, the Monte Somma, 805 00:46:22,410 --> 00:46:24,350 the forerunner of Vesuvius. 806 00:46:24,350 --> 00:46:27,980 20,000 years ago, it reaches its maximum altitude, 807 00:46:27,980 --> 00:46:29,640 1800 meters. 808 00:46:29,640 --> 00:46:33,350 Then the first explosive outbreak blows the tip off. 809 00:46:33,350 --> 00:46:35,860 Rest periods are followed by further outbreaks 810 00:46:35,860 --> 00:46:37,113 in the coming millennia. 811 00:46:38,020 --> 00:46:40,360 The eruption in Roman times was already 812 00:46:40,360 --> 00:46:42,930 the fourth great eruption in its history, 813 00:46:42,930 --> 00:46:45,830 and the emergence of the actual Vesuvius, 814 00:46:45,830 --> 00:46:47,023 with its present peak. 815 00:46:48,498 --> 00:46:50,915 (explosions) 816 00:46:55,060 --> 00:46:58,493 Smaller eruptions follow, up until the last century. 817 00:47:00,640 --> 00:47:04,080 A dangerous mountain, yet people still live 818 00:47:04,080 --> 00:47:06,493 in the immediate vicinity of the volcano. 819 00:47:07,790 --> 00:47:09,033 It's a tradition. 820 00:47:09,869 --> 00:47:12,619 (dramatic music) 821 00:47:15,000 --> 00:47:18,048 North of Vesuvius, scientists uncover the walls 822 00:47:18,048 --> 00:47:19,433 of an old ruin. 823 00:47:23,620 --> 00:47:28,093 It's a Roman bath, built 400 years after the catastrophe. 824 00:47:33,980 --> 00:47:36,917 It belongs to a generous country estate. 825 00:47:36,917 --> 00:47:39,667 (dramatic music) 826 00:47:42,660 --> 00:47:43,920 And most of it is buried 827 00:47:43,920 --> 00:47:47,713 in the ashes of the volcano, under modern apartments. 828 00:47:53,240 --> 00:47:56,510 It's a magnificent building from Roman times, 829 00:47:56,510 --> 00:47:58,663 and further ruins lie below. 830 00:48:01,300 --> 00:48:04,510 Following each eruption, people build new houses 831 00:48:04,510 --> 00:48:07,183 on the ruins, again and again. 832 00:48:10,790 --> 00:48:13,960 It's the mountain that attracts people and nature. 833 00:48:13,960 --> 00:48:15,710 It destroys many things, 834 00:48:15,710 --> 00:48:17,903 but it also creates something new. 835 00:48:19,360 --> 00:48:21,810 Only a few years after an eruption, 836 00:48:21,810 --> 00:48:24,986 pioneer plants begin to reclaim the soil, 837 00:48:24,986 --> 00:48:26,630 and others follow. 838 00:48:26,630 --> 00:48:29,130 (light music) 839 00:48:39,106 --> 00:48:43,390 Lava and ash from the volcano contain valuable minerals. 840 00:48:43,390 --> 00:48:45,823 Fertilizer that furthers growth. 841 00:48:47,240 --> 00:48:49,803 An entire region benefits from this. 842 00:48:50,834 --> 00:48:53,417 (upbeat music) 843 00:48:57,610 --> 00:49:01,370 The fruits are unique, famous for their taste. 844 00:49:01,370 --> 00:49:02,533 As is the wine. 845 00:49:05,380 --> 00:49:07,960 There are many animals and plants. 846 00:49:07,960 --> 00:49:10,609 Following catastrophes, a lot of things in nature 847 00:49:10,609 --> 00:49:13,370 have to start all over again. 848 00:49:13,370 --> 00:49:16,880 The locals are joined by immigrants, conquering the area. 849 00:49:16,880 --> 00:49:19,463 (upbeat music) 850 00:49:35,980 --> 00:49:39,393 And so, and interesting mixture emerges. 851 00:49:41,380 --> 00:49:44,200 The volcano might be a tyrant, 852 00:49:44,200 --> 00:49:46,433 but it is also a patron. 853 00:49:47,300 --> 00:49:51,290 The events of Vesuvius are dramatic, but not unique. 854 00:49:51,290 --> 00:49:53,990 All over the world, life is confronted 855 00:49:53,990 --> 00:49:57,000 with the violence of nature. 856 00:49:57,000 --> 00:50:00,010 Colin Devey has reached the end of his journey, 857 00:50:00,010 --> 00:50:01,830 at the Cape of Miseno. 858 00:50:01,830 --> 00:50:05,543 The view of the Bay of Naples is particularly beautiful. 859 00:50:06,380 --> 00:50:08,930 Time to say farewell. 860 00:50:08,930 --> 00:50:12,409 And that I guess is the quintessence of our expedition. 861 00:50:12,409 --> 00:50:14,797 On the one side, the forces of our planet 862 00:50:14,797 --> 00:50:18,040 are still extremely dangerous for humankind, 863 00:50:18,040 --> 00:50:21,170 but on the other side, it's exactly those forces 864 00:50:21,170 --> 00:50:24,132 that make life on this planet possible in the first place. 865 00:50:24,132 --> 00:50:26,920 So, studying them, and understanding them, 866 00:50:26,920 --> 00:50:29,036 is absolutely essential for all of us. 867 00:50:29,036 --> 00:50:31,740 And that's what my predecessor, 868 00:50:31,740 --> 00:50:35,220 Pliny the Younger knew, when he stood here 1900 years ago, 869 00:50:35,220 --> 00:50:38,300 with this excellent view over the Bay of Naples, 870 00:50:38,300 --> 00:50:40,095 and wrote down his observations 871 00:50:40,095 --> 00:50:43,950 of the eruption of Vesuvius, which was destroying Pompeii. 872 00:50:43,950 --> 00:50:46,120 Now it was those observations 873 00:50:46,120 --> 00:50:49,010 that formed the basis of the study of geology. 874 00:50:49,010 --> 00:50:51,500 So as a geologist it's really quite emotional 875 00:50:51,500 --> 00:50:54,480 to stand here with this view behind me. 876 00:50:54,480 --> 00:50:57,969 And I'm gonna enjoy the atmosphere for a few more minutes. 877 00:50:57,969 --> 00:50:59,170 Now think about it. 878 00:50:59,170 --> 00:51:01,970 Our planet is constantly in motion, 879 00:51:01,970 --> 00:51:04,473 and it's always worth taking a closer look. 880 00:51:05,350 --> 00:51:06,320 Cheerio. 881 00:51:06,320 --> 00:51:09,153 (dramatic music) 66389

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