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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:02,736 --> 00:00:05,273 narrator: at the southwestern tip of africa 2 00:00:05,306 --> 00:00:09,410 lies one of the most spectacular parks on earth. 3 00:00:13,381 --> 00:00:16,184 Surrounded by the vast atlantic ocean 4 00:00:16,217 --> 00:00:19,753 and the growing metropolis of cape town. 5 00:00:27,161 --> 00:00:32,800 It is home to an extraordinary diversity of plants and animals. 6 00:00:32,833 --> 00:00:34,768 Many exist nowhere else. 7 00:00:36,970 --> 00:00:39,373 this is an extreme 8 00:00:39,407 --> 00:00:42,343 and unforgiving environment. 9 00:00:46,580 --> 00:00:48,782 At its core 10 00:00:48,816 --> 00:00:53,287 is one of the world's most iconic mountains. 11 00:00:53,321 --> 00:00:57,225 This is table mountain national park. 12 00:01:00,394 --> 00:01:10,404 (***) 13 00:01:10,438 --> 00:01:15,376 (***) 14 00:01:15,409 --> 00:01:22,416 (***) 15 00:01:29,990 --> 00:01:34,728 table mountain is one of the natural wonders of the world. 16 00:01:34,762 --> 00:01:39,533 its flat top is formed by a cap of super-hardened sandstone 17 00:01:39,567 --> 00:01:42,503 that has resisted millions of years of erosion. 18 00:01:45,373 --> 00:01:47,675 the mountain is the northernmost extent 19 00:01:47,708 --> 00:01:51,445 of one of africa's most diverse parks. 20 00:02:01,689 --> 00:02:04,658 from here, table mountain national park 21 00:02:04,692 --> 00:02:07,861 extends south along a rugged spine of mountains 22 00:02:07,895 --> 00:02:11,865 to the end of the peninsula at cape point. 23 00:02:17,104 --> 00:02:21,342 85 square miles of incredible diversity. 24 00:02:28,616 --> 00:02:32,853 containing more than 2000 plant species; 25 00:02:32,886 --> 00:02:37,391 90 of which exist nowhere else in the world. 26 00:02:40,594 --> 00:02:44,064 this sanctuary is surrounded on all sides 27 00:02:44,097 --> 00:02:45,866 by ocean 28 00:02:45,899 --> 00:02:47,501 or by humanity, 29 00:02:49,703 --> 00:02:54,408 3000 foot peaks stand with their feet in the sea. 30 00:02:55,676 --> 00:02:59,179 two sharply contrasting worlds 31 00:02:59,213 --> 00:03:01,014 on land 32 00:03:01,048 --> 00:03:02,550 and in the ocean. 33 00:03:05,353 --> 00:03:08,422 cold, dry winds and deep ocean currents 34 00:03:08,456 --> 00:03:11,525 drive upwelling along this coast, 35 00:03:11,559 --> 00:03:15,363 drawing valuable nutrients to the surface. 36 00:03:17,531 --> 00:03:20,868 resulting in rich waters teaming with life. 37 00:03:23,871 --> 00:03:27,541 but on land conditions are very different. 38 00:03:28,876 --> 00:03:31,779 the winds that bring life to the waters below 39 00:03:31,812 --> 00:03:35,048 buffet the mountains desiccating the landscape 40 00:03:35,082 --> 00:03:37,451 and stunting the vegetation. 41 00:03:37,485 --> 00:03:39,253 dry and windswept 42 00:03:39,287 --> 00:03:42,222 just surviving here is a struggle. 43 00:03:44,725 --> 00:03:46,827 just about every plant and animal 44 00:03:46,860 --> 00:03:51,565 is adapted to overcome this harsh world. 45 00:03:51,599 --> 00:03:54,668 orange breasted sunbirds flit between flowers 46 00:03:54,702 --> 00:03:56,537 in a partnership 47 00:03:56,570 --> 00:03:58,706 critical to both species' survival. 48 00:04:00,040 --> 00:04:01,709 where only the toughest species 49 00:04:01,742 --> 00:04:04,812 can eke out a living on the land, 50 00:04:06,547 --> 00:04:11,819 in contrast below the waves in the rich seas life is abundant. 51 00:04:14,622 --> 00:04:18,526 seals play a life and death game of hide and seek 52 00:04:18,559 --> 00:04:21,128 in the offshore forests, 53 00:04:21,161 --> 00:04:25,366 and an unusual colony of african penguins thrives. 54 00:04:26,934 --> 00:04:28,502 all protected 55 00:04:28,536 --> 00:04:33,106 within table mountain's incredible natural sanctuary. 56 00:04:33,140 --> 00:04:34,942 for plants and animals alike, 57 00:04:34,975 --> 00:04:38,879 living here is a story of life on the edge. 58 00:04:43,851 --> 00:04:46,854 it's midsummer and an unlikely family 59 00:04:46,887 --> 00:04:51,058 has come down to the beach near cape point to escape the heat. 60 00:04:55,095 --> 00:04:59,099 chacma baboons, the southernmost primate in africa - 61 00:04:59,132 --> 00:05:01,034 apart from humans. 62 00:05:02,403 --> 00:05:04,605 one of the world's largest monkeys, 63 00:05:04,638 --> 00:05:08,409 males can weigh nearly a hundred pounds. 64 00:05:11,645 --> 00:05:16,149 they are remarkably resourceful and occur across southern africa 65 00:05:16,183 --> 00:05:17,885 in a range of habitats - 66 00:05:17,918 --> 00:05:22,756 from forests and grasslands to savanna and semi-deserts. 67 00:05:36,604 --> 00:05:38,205 for a few days each month 68 00:05:38,238 --> 00:05:41,675 during extreme low tides they come down to the shore 69 00:05:41,709 --> 00:05:46,447 in order to forage among the exposed rocks. 70 00:05:46,480 --> 00:05:49,182 this gives them a valuable survival edge 71 00:05:49,216 --> 00:05:52,720 in an unforgiving park. 72 00:05:52,753 --> 00:05:56,524 they're one of only a few baboon families in the world 73 00:05:56,557 --> 00:06:00,661 whose lifestyle straddles both land and sea. 74 00:06:04,832 --> 00:06:08,402 the cape peninsula is an isolated stretch of land 75 00:06:08,436 --> 00:06:11,772 jutting out into the mighty atlantic ocean. 76 00:06:11,805 --> 00:06:15,008 it is one of the windiest spots in the world; 77 00:06:15,042 --> 00:06:18,779 gales blow roughly 100 days a year. 78 00:06:18,812 --> 00:06:21,348 this makes life on land harsh, 79 00:06:21,381 --> 00:06:23,984 but it brings a bounty to the ocean. 80 00:06:34,928 --> 00:06:38,131 southeasterly winds and deep oceanic currents 81 00:06:38,165 --> 00:06:41,669 bring cold nutrient rich water to the surface 82 00:06:41,702 --> 00:06:44,872 in a process called upwelling. 83 00:06:46,674 --> 00:06:49,009 these nutrients together with sunlight 84 00:06:49,042 --> 00:06:53,180 fuel one of the most productive habitats on the planet. 85 00:06:56,149 --> 00:06:57,918 giant kelp forests 86 00:06:57,951 --> 00:07:02,456 with plants towering over 39 feet thrive. 87 00:07:08,796 --> 00:07:10,363 with plenty of food available, 88 00:07:10,397 --> 00:07:15,002 the only limiting factor is a place to call your own. 89 00:07:20,808 --> 00:07:22,910 space is at a premium 90 00:07:22,943 --> 00:07:25,779 so there is fierce competition for it. 91 00:07:32,886 --> 00:07:36,857 fish such as this red roman are territorial. 92 00:07:43,864 --> 00:07:47,200 males jealously guard their patch - 93 00:07:47,234 --> 00:07:51,772 and to avoid competition they have a trick up their sleeves. 94 00:07:51,805 --> 00:07:55,475 young are all born female. 95 00:07:55,509 --> 00:07:57,811 when the territorial male dies 96 00:07:57,845 --> 00:08:00,480 the largest female changes sex 97 00:08:00,514 --> 00:08:03,083 and takes over his territory. 98 00:08:09,690 --> 00:08:13,661 seven-gill cow sharks also patrol these forests. 99 00:08:15,228 --> 00:08:19,166 a member of one of the planet's most ancient shark lineages, 100 00:08:19,199 --> 00:08:21,935 they hide from predators such as great whites 101 00:08:21,969 --> 00:08:26,073 during the day in the forest. 102 00:08:26,106 --> 00:08:30,878 cape fur seals - another of the great white's favored prey items 103 00:08:30,911 --> 00:08:34,715 also find shelter in the kelp beds. 104 00:08:44,825 --> 00:08:47,861 in the relative safety of this underwater haven 105 00:08:47,895 --> 00:08:50,731 there's plenty of time for mischief. 106 00:09:21,261 --> 00:09:22,730 the relentless winds 107 00:09:22,763 --> 00:09:24,932 that contribute to the upwelling in the ocean 108 00:09:24,965 --> 00:09:27,968 making it one of the most fertile ecosystems 109 00:09:28,001 --> 00:09:31,805 on the planet; also dictate conditions on land - 110 00:09:31,839 --> 00:09:33,974 but in the opposite way. 111 00:09:41,448 --> 00:09:45,518 the vegetation blanketing the park is called "fynbos" 112 00:09:45,552 --> 00:09:48,021 translated as "fine bush"; 113 00:09:48,055 --> 00:09:49,289 it gets its name 114 00:09:49,322 --> 00:09:51,792 from the delicate leaves of many of its plants 115 00:09:51,825 --> 00:09:54,828 which help them to conserve water. 116 00:09:59,432 --> 00:10:02,736 fynbos forms part of the incredibly diverse 117 00:10:02,770 --> 00:10:04,805 cape floristic region. 118 00:10:06,874 --> 00:10:09,542 this region is second only to tropical forests 119 00:10:09,576 --> 00:10:11,278 in terms of diversity 120 00:10:11,311 --> 00:10:14,314 although it is only a fraction of the size. 121 00:10:16,049 --> 00:10:19,186 covering 56,000 square miles, 122 00:10:19,219 --> 00:10:22,990 the cape holds more than 9,000 plant species. 123 00:10:23,023 --> 00:10:27,627 almost 70 percent of which live nowhere else. 124 00:10:29,062 --> 00:10:32,299 more plant species than the united kingdom. 125 00:10:34,467 --> 00:10:39,006 fynbos is characterized by four iconic plant types- 126 00:10:39,039 --> 00:10:43,777 ericas, identifiable by their tiny needle-like leaves, 127 00:10:44,845 --> 00:10:47,047 reed-like restios, 128 00:10:50,818 --> 00:10:54,822 large shrubby proteas with showy flowers, 129 00:10:56,990 --> 00:11:01,161 and geophytes with their underground storage organs. 130 00:11:04,231 --> 00:11:07,935 the soils of table mountain national park are sandy 131 00:11:07,968 --> 00:11:11,304 and hold few nutrients and limited water. 132 00:11:12,840 --> 00:11:16,376 where soils are poor growing leaves is costly. 133 00:11:18,511 --> 00:11:22,750 so plants need to deter animals from eating them. 134 00:11:22,783 --> 00:11:26,954 for this they fill their leaves with chemicals called tannins 135 00:11:26,987 --> 00:11:30,057 which make them bitter and indigestible. 136 00:11:34,161 --> 00:11:35,963 although the landscape appears 137 00:11:35,996 --> 00:11:38,298 to be covered with edible vegetation, 138 00:11:38,331 --> 00:11:40,200 most of it is not. 139 00:11:44,905 --> 00:11:47,340 this family of cape mountain zebra 140 00:11:47,374 --> 00:11:50,310 are searching for food on the open plains 141 00:11:50,343 --> 00:11:52,179 north of cape point. 142 00:11:52,212 --> 00:11:54,982 they are the smallest zebra species. 143 00:11:55,015 --> 00:11:57,284 easily distinguished from other zebras 144 00:11:57,317 --> 00:12:02,289 by the fold of skin under their necks - known as a dewlap. 145 00:12:09,429 --> 00:12:13,767 they specialize in living in dry, rocky environments. 146 00:12:18,906 --> 00:12:21,474 they're searching for new grass shoots. 147 00:12:28,849 --> 00:12:31,751 eland, the largest antelope in the world, 148 00:12:31,785 --> 00:12:34,454 also rely on isolated patches of grass 149 00:12:34,487 --> 00:12:39,459 that grow in a few places amongst the unpalatable fynbos. 150 00:12:55,542 --> 00:12:59,212 bontebok are found only in this part of south africa 151 00:12:59,246 --> 00:13:01,849 and can survive on fynbos alone, 152 00:13:04,117 --> 00:13:07,888 but they take full advantage of table mountain's grazing lawns 153 00:13:07,921 --> 00:13:09,789 to boost their diet. 154 00:13:12,092 --> 00:13:14,027 for nearly all land animals 155 00:13:14,061 --> 00:13:16,496 finding food in this barren landscape 156 00:13:16,529 --> 00:13:18,298 is a constant challenge. 157 00:13:29,910 --> 00:13:34,081 the baboon troops often have to make do with what they can find 158 00:13:34,114 --> 00:13:37,084 high on the meager landscape of the peninsula. 159 00:13:39,119 --> 00:13:42,856 but this troop is led by an experienced alpha male 160 00:13:42,890 --> 00:13:44,992 and he knows where to look. 161 00:13:48,896 --> 00:13:51,231 plants with underground storage organs 162 00:13:51,264 --> 00:13:54,767 such as bulbs and tubers - known as geophytes - 163 00:13:54,801 --> 00:13:56,536 are common in the park. 164 00:13:59,706 --> 00:14:03,143 these store water and carbohydrates underground 165 00:14:03,176 --> 00:14:07,114 in order to survive the park's hot dry summers. 166 00:14:38,645 --> 00:14:42,415 but not all geophytes are good eating. 167 00:14:45,652 --> 00:14:51,824 march lilies appear in late summer all over the peninsula. 168 00:14:51,858 --> 00:14:56,196 the bulbs of these beautiful plants are highly toxic - 169 00:14:56,229 --> 00:14:58,966 able to kill a grown man. 170 00:15:03,270 --> 00:15:05,372 being a big-brained primate 171 00:15:05,405 --> 00:15:09,442 gives these baboons an advantage in this tough landscape. 172 00:15:15,983 --> 00:15:19,219 family life is important. 173 00:15:19,252 --> 00:15:21,989 youngsters not only learn from their parents 174 00:15:22,022 --> 00:15:24,457 but spend hours playing. 175 00:15:26,459 --> 00:15:29,696 this builds relations between family members. 176 00:15:32,232 --> 00:15:36,103 subordinates often groom dominant members to gain acceptance, 177 00:15:36,136 --> 00:15:39,072 and females gain protection for their young. 178 00:15:42,675 --> 00:15:46,713 youngsters too always have an eye out for opportunities 179 00:15:46,746 --> 00:15:48,148 to get on top. 180 00:15:56,556 --> 00:15:57,790 one species in the park 181 00:15:57,824 --> 00:16:00,693 that comes out on top more often than not 182 00:16:00,727 --> 00:16:02,229 is the rock hyrax, 183 00:16:02,262 --> 00:16:05,598 known locally as "dassies". 184 00:16:05,632 --> 00:16:09,069 they are found throughout the park on rocky outcrops, 185 00:16:09,102 --> 00:16:12,239 and this family are kings of their castle. 186 00:16:12,272 --> 00:16:15,542 their home is on the iconic flat mountain. 187 00:16:20,347 --> 00:16:23,383 dassies may look suspiciously like guinea pigs, 188 00:16:23,416 --> 00:16:26,119 but they are not rodents at all. 189 00:16:28,921 --> 00:16:30,523 as unlikely as it seems, 190 00:16:30,557 --> 00:16:34,861 dna evidence shows their closest living relatives 191 00:16:34,894 --> 00:16:36,529 are elephants. 192 00:16:44,204 --> 00:16:47,374 agama lizards are also adapted to life here. 193 00:16:48,208 --> 00:16:50,443 like all cold blooded animals 194 00:16:50,477 --> 00:16:53,213 they cannot regulate their own body temperatures 195 00:16:53,246 --> 00:16:57,450 and rely on the sun's heat to warm their bodies. 196 00:16:57,484 --> 00:16:59,919 so they spend large amount of time 197 00:16:59,952 --> 00:17:02,622 lying on exposed sunny surfaces. 198 00:17:04,424 --> 00:17:07,360 this makes them easy targets for birds of prey 199 00:17:07,394 --> 00:17:09,596 such as rock kestrels. 200 00:17:35,122 --> 00:17:39,058 most species are camouflaged to blend in with the rock, 201 00:17:47,534 --> 00:17:51,304 but the black girdled lizard stands out. 202 00:17:57,076 --> 00:17:58,845 it's a dangerous trade off, 203 00:17:58,878 --> 00:18:02,715 the lizard is more visible to predators 204 00:18:02,749 --> 00:18:07,220 but being darker helps it absorb the maximum amount of heat. 205 00:18:15,162 --> 00:18:18,365 dassies too enjoy sunning themselves. 206 00:18:18,398 --> 00:18:21,368 they are one of only a few warm blooded mammals 207 00:18:21,401 --> 00:18:23,270 capable of using the sun's heat 208 00:18:23,303 --> 00:18:25,438 to increase their body temperature 209 00:18:25,472 --> 00:18:27,707 and aid their metabolism. 210 00:18:33,146 --> 00:18:34,681 this also exposes them 211 00:18:34,714 --> 00:18:37,817 to larger predators such as this jackal buzzard. 212 00:18:42,589 --> 00:18:45,992 but dassies are expert rock jumpers. 213 00:18:46,025 --> 00:18:51,998 small stubby toes with hoof-like nails make rock jumping easy. 214 00:18:52,031 --> 00:18:57,003 a special secretion keeps their rubbery feet permanently moist. 215 00:18:57,036 --> 00:18:59,839 they also have a collapsible ribcage - 216 00:18:59,872 --> 00:19:03,109 perfect for squeezing into small rock crevices 217 00:19:03,142 --> 00:19:05,312 to escape danger. 218 00:19:08,748 --> 00:19:10,883 of all their adaptations however, 219 00:19:10,917 --> 00:19:14,654 it is possibly their ability to tackle a variety of food 220 00:19:14,687 --> 00:19:18,325 that gives them the greatest advantage in this park. 221 00:19:19,659 --> 00:19:23,796 a multi-chambered stomach filled with symbiotic bacteria 222 00:19:23,830 --> 00:19:25,998 enables them to eat the otherwise 223 00:19:26,032 --> 00:19:28,935 unpalatable leaves of fynbos. 224 00:19:48,355 --> 00:19:49,989 most of the year, 225 00:19:50,022 --> 00:19:53,960 fynbos tries to keep animals at bay to prevent grazing. 226 00:19:55,161 --> 00:19:56,563 but for some species, 227 00:19:56,596 --> 00:19:59,766 animals are critically important for pollination. 228 00:19:59,799 --> 00:20:04,671 and to attract these animals, plants produce lots of nectar. 229 00:20:10,977 --> 00:20:12,945 growing leaves is expensive 230 00:20:12,979 --> 00:20:16,383 because it requires nutrients that are in short supply 231 00:20:16,416 --> 00:20:19,352 in the soils of table mountain national park. 232 00:20:21,087 --> 00:20:26,025 but while leaves are expensive, producing nectar is cheap. 233 00:20:26,058 --> 00:20:29,362 all it takes is sunlight and a little water. 234 00:20:40,172 --> 00:20:41,841 it's early morning, 235 00:20:41,874 --> 00:20:46,713 the flowers are full of nectar and sunbirds are feasting. 236 00:20:46,746 --> 00:20:50,850 orange-breasted sunbirds exist only in the fynbos. 237 00:21:09,068 --> 00:21:12,539 they play a crucial role in the ecosystem. 238 00:21:14,874 --> 00:21:18,345 flitting from flower to flower feeding on nectar, 239 00:21:18,378 --> 00:21:20,613 they become dusted with pollen. 240 00:21:22,081 --> 00:21:25,184 which they transfer from plant to plant 241 00:21:25,217 --> 00:21:27,387 fertilizing the flowers. 242 00:21:35,395 --> 00:21:37,564 southern double-collared sunbirds 243 00:21:37,597 --> 00:21:40,767 are also drawn by the spoils on offer. 244 00:21:57,684 --> 00:22:01,153 proteas, south africa's iconic national flower, 245 00:22:01,187 --> 00:22:02,755 are shrubby plants 246 00:22:02,789 --> 00:22:05,892 and they attract another larger bird. 247 00:22:08,060 --> 00:22:11,864 cape sugarbirds, so named for their love of nectar. 248 00:22:26,679 --> 00:22:30,016 their tail is long and cumbersome. 249 00:22:36,255 --> 00:22:39,726 but females are attracted by impressive tails; 250 00:22:39,759 --> 00:22:43,663 the longer the tail the better the male's potential as a mate. 251 00:22:57,877 --> 00:23:01,448 sunbirds are also enjoying the sugary spoils. 252 00:23:03,450 --> 00:23:08,187 but they unwittingly cheat the protea out of its nectar. 253 00:23:08,220 --> 00:23:09,889 being small they can't reach 254 00:23:09,922 --> 00:23:13,526 into the depths of the plant from above, like the sugarbirds, 255 00:23:13,560 --> 00:23:16,529 and are not dusted with pollen. 256 00:23:21,333 --> 00:23:23,970 this is bad news for the plant. 257 00:23:25,204 --> 00:23:28,975 their only reliable pollinators are sugarbirds. 258 00:23:33,179 --> 00:23:36,516 while more than 400 species of fynbos plants 259 00:23:36,549 --> 00:23:39,652 rely on birds to enable them to produce seeds, 260 00:23:39,686 --> 00:23:42,522 these are not the only pollinators. 261 00:23:45,892 --> 00:23:47,927 cape honeybees love nectar 262 00:23:47,960 --> 00:23:51,063 and rely heavily on flowers to get it. 263 00:24:07,914 --> 00:24:11,217 bees also play a vital pollinating role 264 00:24:11,250 --> 00:24:13,185 in the fynbos ecosystem. 265 00:24:20,627 --> 00:24:24,163 their proboscis is an airtight, straw-like tube 266 00:24:24,196 --> 00:24:26,032 that sucks up nectar. 267 00:24:27,767 --> 00:24:29,702 an electrostatic charge 268 00:24:29,736 --> 00:24:32,872 on the fine hairs that cover their body and legs 269 00:24:32,905 --> 00:24:34,841 helps them collect pollen. 270 00:24:50,523 --> 00:24:52,424 of all pollinators in the park 271 00:24:52,458 --> 00:24:56,896 perhaps the most unusual is the striped field mouse. 272 00:24:59,532 --> 00:25:04,571 around the world pollination by rodents is extremely rare, 273 00:25:06,305 --> 00:25:08,775 but mice are attracted to proteas 274 00:25:08,808 --> 00:25:12,078 because the flowers produce large volumes of nectar. 275 00:25:17,817 --> 00:25:20,953 in the fynbos more than 35 plant species 276 00:25:20,987 --> 00:25:23,756 depend on this rare relationship. 277 00:25:39,038 --> 00:25:42,208 living in a windy place can be a hindrance 278 00:25:42,241 --> 00:25:46,713 but some plants have come to depend on it. 279 00:25:46,746 --> 00:25:50,650 restios, another major plant group of the fynbos 280 00:25:50,683 --> 00:25:52,685 are wind pollinated. 281 00:25:54,053 --> 00:25:56,555 they don't have beautiful showy flowers 282 00:25:56,589 --> 00:25:58,991 because they don't need to attract pollinators 283 00:25:59,025 --> 00:26:02,762 with fancy petals or tasty nectar. 284 00:26:02,795 --> 00:26:05,464 their pollinator is indiscriminate 285 00:26:05,497 --> 00:26:07,466 but everywhere. 286 00:26:07,499 --> 00:26:11,604 wind pollination is not as precise as animal pollination 287 00:26:11,638 --> 00:26:16,142 but it's still highly effective in this wind-driven ecosystem. 288 00:26:17,844 --> 00:26:20,647 wind not only helps to renew life on land, 289 00:26:20,680 --> 00:26:23,916 it also brings nutrients to the ocean surface, 290 00:26:23,950 --> 00:26:26,953 enabling sea life to flourish. 291 00:26:26,986 --> 00:26:28,888 table mountain national park 292 00:26:28,921 --> 00:26:31,758 is home to a rare marine character - 293 00:26:34,894 --> 00:26:36,829 the african penguin. 294 00:26:53,412 --> 00:26:56,582 it's breeding season in the boulders beach colony 295 00:26:56,615 --> 00:26:58,951 on the eastern shores of the park. 296 00:27:04,590 --> 00:27:08,060 this is one of only three mainland breeding colonies 297 00:27:08,094 --> 00:27:09,628 in africa. 298 00:27:16,468 --> 00:27:19,338 ordinarily, african penguins prefer to breed 299 00:27:19,371 --> 00:27:21,140 on offshore islands - 300 00:27:23,175 --> 00:27:26,078 but humans destroyed their traditional homes 301 00:27:26,112 --> 00:27:29,949 by stripping guano off these islands for fertilizer 302 00:27:29,982 --> 00:27:32,318 in the early 1900s. 303 00:27:36,622 --> 00:27:38,257 with no guano 304 00:27:38,290 --> 00:27:41,027 the breeding penguins had nowhere to dig their burrows 305 00:27:41,060 --> 00:27:42,995 and shelter their chicks. 306 00:27:45,998 --> 00:27:48,234 in addition, commercial fishing 307 00:27:48,267 --> 00:27:51,337 has stripped the oceans of food for penguins. 308 00:27:52,805 --> 00:27:54,306 historically 309 00:27:54,340 --> 00:27:57,276 there were an estimated two million breeding pairs 310 00:27:57,309 --> 00:27:58,811 in southern africa, 311 00:28:01,147 --> 00:28:04,984 today fewer than 25 000 survive. 312 00:28:11,958 --> 00:28:16,929 the species is hanging on by the finest of threads. 313 00:28:16,963 --> 00:28:18,831 and the boulders beach penguins 314 00:28:18,865 --> 00:28:21,467 are at the forefront of the struggle. 315 00:28:25,471 --> 00:28:29,208 it is one of the only colonies growing in number. 316 00:28:37,884 --> 00:28:40,419 not only is the breeding colony protected, 317 00:28:40,452 --> 00:28:43,022 the surrounding waters of false bay 318 00:28:43,055 --> 00:28:45,591 are also closed to commercial fishing; 319 00:28:45,624 --> 00:28:47,960 meaning food is plentiful. 320 00:28:56,302 --> 00:28:58,805 penguins are not the only flightless bird 321 00:28:58,838 --> 00:29:01,240 benefitting from the sanctuary of the park. 322 00:29:02,875 --> 00:29:06,645 it's midsummer - the driest time of the year. 323 00:29:06,678 --> 00:29:10,382 this is the hottest day that cape point has experienced 324 00:29:10,416 --> 00:29:12,018 in a hundred years, 325 00:29:12,051 --> 00:29:15,454 a sweltering 109 degrees fahrenheit. 326 00:29:15,487 --> 00:29:19,792 fynbos offers little shade and birds do not have the ability 327 00:29:19,826 --> 00:29:23,029 to sweat in order to cool down. 328 00:29:23,062 --> 00:29:25,865 this ostrich is feeling the heat. 329 00:29:27,633 --> 00:29:30,903 so he's opening his mouth and rapidly moving air 330 00:29:30,937 --> 00:29:33,739 over a capillary filled pouch in his throat 331 00:29:33,772 --> 00:29:36,475 in order to cool his blood. 332 00:29:36,508 --> 00:29:39,178 this is called "gular fluttering" - 333 00:29:41,080 --> 00:29:43,215 similar to panting dogs. 334 00:29:48,654 --> 00:29:50,890 he also spreads his wings, 335 00:29:52,624 --> 00:29:55,727 allowing the wind to fan the thin skin beneath 336 00:29:55,761 --> 00:29:58,197 reduces his core temperature. 337 00:30:23,789 --> 00:30:28,560 the bontebok are also taking strain in the exposed landscape. 338 00:30:30,796 --> 00:30:32,664 males are highly territorial 339 00:30:32,698 --> 00:30:37,536 and even in the heat their priority is to assert dominance. 340 00:30:50,349 --> 00:30:53,419 there are places in the park where the desiccating winds 341 00:30:53,452 --> 00:30:56,588 actually benefit plants and animals. 342 00:30:59,391 --> 00:31:03,462 on the summit the south-easterly wind has formed a cloud 343 00:31:03,495 --> 00:31:07,633 known to locals as the mountain's "table cloth". 344 00:31:11,670 --> 00:31:13,405 the lower slopes are parched, 345 00:31:13,439 --> 00:31:15,807 but this thick cloud brings some relief 346 00:31:15,841 --> 00:31:19,111 to the park's higher elevations. 347 00:31:19,145 --> 00:31:21,380 water condensing out of the air 348 00:31:21,413 --> 00:31:25,784 is just enough to refresh the last trickling streams. 349 00:31:25,817 --> 00:31:30,156 these are home to an orchid called the red disa. 350 00:31:40,632 --> 00:31:44,570 disas can tolerate hot summer temperatures, 351 00:31:44,603 --> 00:31:47,439 but they need moisture and humidity. 352 00:31:51,177 --> 00:31:55,181 and so can only survive in these permanent streams. 353 00:31:59,218 --> 00:32:02,955 cape rivers are best known for their dark water. 354 00:32:04,723 --> 00:32:09,195 the bitter tannins fynbos plants use to deter herbivores 355 00:32:09,228 --> 00:32:10,929 leech into the rivers, 356 00:32:10,963 --> 00:32:13,399 creating a tea-like color. 357 00:32:21,040 --> 00:32:23,942 even here, in this moist environment, 358 00:32:23,976 --> 00:32:25,511 life is tough. 359 00:32:31,483 --> 00:32:33,619 sundews are carnivorous plants 360 00:32:33,652 --> 00:32:37,256 that can survive in these nutrient-poor soils. 361 00:32:38,790 --> 00:32:42,728 the droplets on their leaves are sweet secretions. 362 00:32:42,761 --> 00:32:45,731 insects are trapped by this sticky substance 363 00:32:45,764 --> 00:32:48,900 and the plant uses enzymes to digest them 364 00:32:48,934 --> 00:32:50,402 and absorb the nutrients. 365 00:32:57,909 --> 00:33:01,213 the permanent streams allow green pockets of life 366 00:33:01,247 --> 00:33:04,650 to survive on an unforgiving mountain. 367 00:33:04,683 --> 00:33:08,420 afromontane forest covers just 4 percent of the park, 368 00:33:08,454 --> 00:33:12,224 and is a refuge for a number of unusual species. 369 00:33:14,993 --> 00:33:17,029 perhaps the most precious of all 370 00:33:17,063 --> 00:33:19,698 is the table mountain ghost frog - 371 00:33:19,731 --> 00:33:23,335 one of the rarest amphibians on the planet. 372 00:33:26,072 --> 00:33:28,174 the entire world's population 373 00:33:28,207 --> 00:33:30,409 lives in just 6 ravines 374 00:33:30,442 --> 00:33:32,778 on the eastern side of the mountain. 375 00:33:34,946 --> 00:33:36,615 it is seldom seen, 376 00:33:36,648 --> 00:33:40,586 living a secretive existence in these perennial streams. 377 00:33:45,857 --> 00:33:49,795 this frog has just metamorphosed from a tadpole. 378 00:33:51,430 --> 00:33:55,067 he still has a lot of growing to reach his adult size 379 00:33:55,101 --> 00:33:56,802 of 2 inches. 380 00:33:58,570 --> 00:34:02,574 ghost frogs are perfectly adapted to this habitat. 381 00:34:02,608 --> 00:34:07,846 flattened bodies allow them to crawl between narrow crevices. 382 00:34:07,879 --> 00:34:11,283 webbed feet make them excellent swimmers. 383 00:34:14,886 --> 00:34:19,225 sticky discs on their toes help them cling to rock faces 384 00:34:19,258 --> 00:34:22,128 and their mottled green and brown appearance 385 00:34:22,161 --> 00:34:24,530 is ideal camouflage. 386 00:34:28,534 --> 00:34:32,838 the tadpoles are also adapted to life in fast flowing streams. 387 00:34:38,410 --> 00:34:41,847 their huge mouth acts as a strong sucker, 388 00:34:41,880 --> 00:34:46,785 allowing them to hang onto rocks while slowly feeding on algae. 389 00:34:52,424 --> 00:34:55,827 tadpoles take a whole year to develop to adulthood. 390 00:35:08,574 --> 00:35:10,876 the ghost frog is a specialist 391 00:35:10,909 --> 00:35:13,945 and is unable to traverse large distances 392 00:35:13,979 --> 00:35:15,747 between suitable habitats - 393 00:35:15,781 --> 00:35:19,251 and therefore exists nowhere else. 394 00:35:23,121 --> 00:35:28,126 further downstream a curious character also finds refuge - 395 00:35:32,264 --> 00:35:34,566 a cape dwarf chameleon, 396 00:35:34,600 --> 00:35:38,670 native to the southwestern corner of south africa. 397 00:35:44,476 --> 00:35:48,814 unlike ghost frogs, table mountain's extreme specialist, 398 00:35:48,847 --> 00:35:52,951 the secret of this chameleon's success is its adaptability - 399 00:35:52,984 --> 00:35:54,753 it can survive everywhere 400 00:35:54,786 --> 00:35:58,624 from fynbos and forest to urban gardens. 401 00:36:04,563 --> 00:36:07,098 large individuals such as this one 402 00:36:07,132 --> 00:36:09,835 can grow up to 7 inches in length. 403 00:36:14,240 --> 00:36:16,942 chameleons are important predators. 404 00:36:20,946 --> 00:36:24,316 with gripping feet and a prehensile tail, 405 00:36:24,350 --> 00:36:26,918 they are adapted to life in the trees. 406 00:36:33,692 --> 00:36:35,894 their eyes work independently 407 00:36:35,927 --> 00:36:40,366 allowing them to scan different directions at the same time. 408 00:36:53,379 --> 00:36:57,583 even expert hunters can sometimes miss the shot. 409 00:36:57,616 --> 00:37:01,387 it's this grasshopper's lucky day. 410 00:37:12,498 --> 00:37:14,666 but persistence pays. 411 00:37:28,814 --> 00:37:32,884 afromontane forests are tucked away in moist ravines 412 00:37:32,918 --> 00:37:35,387 protected from the dangers of increasingly 413 00:37:35,421 --> 00:37:39,525 hot and dry conditions on the exposed slopes. 414 00:37:43,094 --> 00:37:44,596 by the end of summer 415 00:37:44,630 --> 00:37:48,434 table mountain national park is a tinderbox. 416 00:37:51,670 --> 00:37:56,542 one stray spark is all that it takes to ignite the mountain. 417 00:38:01,046 --> 00:38:02,714 once alight 418 00:38:02,748 --> 00:38:06,685 runaway fires rapidly destroy everything in their path. 419 00:38:29,808 --> 00:38:35,046 animals not able to escape are consumed by the flames, 420 00:38:36,648 --> 00:38:40,619 but fire has always been a natural part of this landscape 421 00:38:40,652 --> 00:38:44,890 and it plays a pivotal role in the fynbos ecosystem. 422 00:38:46,291 --> 00:38:52,030 in only a matter of days new growth starts to appear. 423 00:38:52,063 --> 00:38:56,635 protea bushes in particular are fire adapted. 424 00:38:56,668 --> 00:38:59,571 some protect themselves with thick bark 425 00:38:59,605 --> 00:39:04,710 and then re-sprout once the fire has passed. 426 00:39:04,743 --> 00:39:09,515 others are stimulated by the flames to release their seeds. 427 00:39:17,723 --> 00:39:20,426 smoke, heat or charred wood 428 00:39:20,459 --> 00:39:23,429 also triggers the growth of seeds and bulbs 429 00:39:23,462 --> 00:39:25,397 buried in the ground. 430 00:39:31,036 --> 00:39:36,975 ironically the burnt landscape is perfect for new seedlings. 431 00:39:37,008 --> 00:39:39,110 with the dominant adult plants gone, 432 00:39:39,144 --> 00:39:42,548 there is no competition for space or water. 433 00:39:44,249 --> 00:39:47,719 and the nutrients once stored in living vegetation 434 00:39:47,753 --> 00:39:52,924 now lie as highly fertile ash on the ground. 435 00:39:52,958 --> 00:39:55,694 like a phoenix rising from the ashes, 436 00:39:55,727 --> 00:39:59,765 fynbos is reborn after each fire. 437 00:40:16,247 --> 00:40:21,086 table mountain national park's rugged 62 mile coastline 438 00:40:21,119 --> 00:40:22,654 is a sharp divide 439 00:40:22,688 --> 00:40:25,924 between fynbos struggling under the onslaught of summer 440 00:40:25,957 --> 00:40:29,127 and cold waters full of life. 441 00:40:32,598 --> 00:40:34,966 in order to survive on table mountain, 442 00:40:35,000 --> 00:40:38,970 every species needs to be able to tip the scales in their favor 443 00:40:39,004 --> 00:40:42,708 and none are better at seizing new opportunities 444 00:40:42,741 --> 00:40:45,744 than the mountain's baboon troops. 445 00:40:56,154 --> 00:41:01,192 by the end of the hot season kelp beds are bloated with life. 446 00:41:03,228 --> 00:41:04,830 older plants become dislodged 447 00:41:04,863 --> 00:41:08,166 by swells rising out of the southern ocean. 448 00:41:11,102 --> 00:41:12,137 washing ashore 449 00:41:12,170 --> 00:41:14,239 it's a valuable resource. 450 00:41:15,741 --> 00:41:17,275 beach hoppers, 451 00:41:17,308 --> 00:41:20,045 crustaceans distantly related to lobsters and crabs, 452 00:41:20,078 --> 00:41:24,149 have specially adapted gills allowing them to breathe air. 453 00:41:32,858 --> 00:41:34,392 they are effective scavengers, 454 00:41:34,425 --> 00:41:38,930 removing tons of washed up kelp in a matter of days. 455 00:41:41,066 --> 00:41:43,769 the cape point troop of chacma baboons 456 00:41:43,802 --> 00:41:47,973 are also making the most of the smorgasbord on the shore. 457 00:41:51,710 --> 00:41:54,345 they have learned that there is a feast to be had 458 00:41:54,379 --> 00:41:56,648 if you know where to look. 459 00:42:24,309 --> 00:42:25,777 when conditions are right 460 00:42:25,811 --> 00:42:27,813 they come down from their mountainside home 461 00:42:27,846 --> 00:42:31,016 for an early morning seafood buffet. 462 00:42:35,887 --> 00:42:38,323 spring low tide is best. 463 00:42:40,258 --> 00:42:42,861 when rocks are exposed far down the beach, 464 00:42:42,894 --> 00:42:45,030 covered in mussels and limpets. 465 00:43:12,157 --> 00:43:15,226 this is one of the only places in the world 466 00:43:15,260 --> 00:43:18,029 where baboons are known to do this. 467 00:43:21,132 --> 00:43:24,035 shellfish are an incredible source of protein. 468 00:43:28,473 --> 00:43:32,243 these baboons spend only about 5 percent of their time 469 00:43:32,277 --> 00:43:34,145 feasting at the shore, 470 00:43:34,179 --> 00:43:37,683 but the nutrition they gain is invaluable. 471 00:43:39,417 --> 00:43:42,020 it is thought that this same protein source 472 00:43:42,053 --> 00:43:44,589 also helped fuel human development 473 00:43:44,622 --> 00:43:47,726 hundreds of thousands of years ago. 474 00:43:49,560 --> 00:43:52,864 there is evidence that some of our earliest ancestors 475 00:43:52,898 --> 00:43:56,367 ate large amounts of seafood along these shores 476 00:43:56,401 --> 00:43:59,370 fueling the growth of a bigger brain. 477 00:44:04,109 --> 00:44:06,644 just like the earliest human ancestors, 478 00:44:06,678 --> 00:44:10,048 baboons have adapted to make the most of the opportunities 479 00:44:10,081 --> 00:44:12,650 provided by this challenging landscape, 480 00:44:12,684 --> 00:44:18,957 gaining a valuable survival edge on this unforgiving peninsula. 481 00:44:22,393 --> 00:44:27,098 table mountain national park is a land of contrasts, 482 00:44:28,533 --> 00:44:31,970 driven by fire and wind. 483 00:44:36,541 --> 00:44:39,344 it is harsh on land. 484 00:44:41,146 --> 00:44:42,313 despite this 485 00:44:42,347 --> 00:44:46,785 a number of plants and animals thrive - 486 00:44:52,157 --> 00:44:55,994 forming partnerships critical for their survival. 487 00:44:58,363 --> 00:45:02,700 a wealth of species that are found nowhere else. 488 00:45:08,206 --> 00:45:11,843 the surrounding oceans teem with life, 489 00:45:16,047 --> 00:45:20,819 fed by nutrient rich waters upwelled from the deep. 490 00:45:22,353 --> 00:45:27,926 there is plenty of food for a multitude of plants and animals. 491 00:45:31,797 --> 00:45:35,834 this is an island of diversity and wonder 492 00:45:35,867 --> 00:45:38,369 hemmed in by humanity 493 00:45:38,403 --> 00:45:40,872 and surrounded by ocean. 494 00:45:45,977 --> 00:45:48,513 table mountain national park 495 00:45:48,546 --> 00:45:52,550 is a place like no other. 496 00:45:53,318 --> 00:46:03,328 (***) 497 00:46:03,361 --> 00:46:08,299 (***) 498 00:46:08,333 --> 00:46:16,341 (***) 39533

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