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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:58:22,437 --> 00:58:27,204 l'm continuing my quest to discover 80 of the world's greatest man-made treasures. 2 00:58:29,244 --> 00:58:30,711 l'm on Europe's doorstep, 3 00:58:30,879 --> 00:58:35,680 where East meets West in a glorious explosion of cultures and religions. 4 00:58:37,919 --> 00:58:41,855 My treasures lie underground, or concealed in busy cities. 5 00:58:42,223 --> 00:58:43,815 They come from man's efforts to create, 6 00:58:43,992 --> 00:58:47,223 for better or worse, an ideal world. 7 00:59:10,285 --> 00:59:13,254 Over the last four months l've explored the Americas, 8 00:59:13,421 --> 00:59:17,380 Australia, Asia, the Middle East and Africa. 9 00:59:17,625 --> 00:59:21,083 Now from Egypt l'm about to arrive in Turkey. 10 00:59:41,349 --> 00:59:42,839 l'm floating above Turkey - 11 00:59:43,017 --> 00:59:45,850 - above a fantastical landscape, 12 00:59:46,020 --> 00:59:53,586 a fairy landscape - in which these strange fairy-like chimneys are erupting from the land. 13 00:59:54,195 --> 00:59:58,723 People have burrowed into them, inhabited them as they have the landscape, 14 00:59:58,900 --> 01:00:04,668 the rock itself below these strange great rocky outcrops. 15 01:00:05,039 --> 01:00:10,204 This is a fantastic example of man working creatively with nature. 16 01:00:14,816 --> 01:00:20,413 For thousands of years, this region, called Cappadocia, was no-man's land, 17 01:00:20,655 --> 01:00:22,953 where rival empires clashed. 18 01:00:23,124 --> 01:00:28,061 lt's a land of trouble, a battleground for warring factions. 19 01:00:42,477 --> 01:00:43,444 Over the centuries, 20 01:00:43,611 --> 01:00:45,909 people fleeing war and persecution 21 01:00:46,080 --> 01:00:49,811 found sanctuary in this labyrinthine landscape 22 01:00:50,785 --> 01:00:53,652 formed by volcanoes millions of years ago. 23 01:00:58,293 --> 01:01:01,888 My treasure lies beneath my feet, deep underground. 24 01:01:03,164 --> 01:01:06,156 lt was the last refuge of the frightened and terrified. 25 01:01:06,334 --> 01:01:12,967 At moments in history, a subterranean safe haven for up to 30,000 people. 26 01:01:35,797 --> 01:01:37,492 This place is - enormous. 27 01:01:37,665 --> 01:01:39,496 lt goes on and on. 28 01:01:40,501 --> 01:01:42,560 Different levels, twists and turns, 29 01:01:42,737 --> 01:01:43,294 different staircases. 30 01:01:43,471 --> 01:01:44,768 lt's a labyrinth. 31 01:01:45,073 --> 01:01:46,734 But l suppose that's the point. 32 01:01:47,041 --> 01:01:49,009 lt's a defence. 33 01:01:49,744 --> 01:01:52,838 Any attacker would be frightfully confused. 34 01:01:58,052 --> 01:02:01,886 lmagine it teeming with men, women, children 35 01:02:02,056 --> 01:02:02,988 and animals, 36 01:02:03,157 --> 01:02:05,751 and nothing but oil lamps for light. 37 01:02:07,595 --> 01:02:13,295 lt's like being a termite in a termite mound. 38 01:02:14,168 --> 01:02:19,401 These - are clearly houses, people's homes, 39 01:02:19,674 --> 01:02:24,805 because there are - bed alcoves. 40 01:02:26,247 --> 01:02:30,911 Some say all this was started by the Hittites 41 01:02:31,085 --> 01:02:33,918 three and a half, four thousand years ago. 42 01:02:36,424 --> 01:02:39,291 The Hittites were an ancient and powerful civilisation 43 01:02:39,460 --> 01:02:41,394 at war with the Egyptians. 44 01:02:41,763 --> 01:02:44,391 But they would only have been the first inhabitants. 45 01:02:44,933 --> 01:02:46,332 Fifteen hundred years later 46 01:02:46,501 --> 01:02:49,402 it's thought Christians sought refuge here. 47 01:02:56,210 --> 01:02:59,839 You can imagine the congregation sheltering here, 48 01:03:00,014 --> 01:03:04,348 perhaps from Roman persecutions in the second century AD. 49 01:03:04,519 --> 01:03:08,285 And this is the sort of rock-cut secret space 50 01:03:08,656 --> 01:03:11,250 that forms the early Christian church. 51 01:03:11,659 --> 01:03:15,356 The great church has come - from grottoes like this. 52 01:03:16,331 --> 01:03:20,529 And here - amazing evidence, look. There's a cross. 53 01:03:20,802 --> 01:03:23,498 Here's a cross cut into this recess. 54 01:03:24,505 --> 01:03:28,066 So it clearly has been a church at some time. 55 01:03:35,016 --> 01:03:36,711 Although it feels unplanned, 56 01:03:36,884 --> 01:03:40,911 slowly you realise how well organised it is. 57 01:03:42,290 --> 01:03:47,318 Ah. This was the wine store, or one of them. 58 01:03:47,929 --> 01:03:51,456 l suppose great flagons of the precious liquid 59 01:03:52,934 --> 01:03:55,459 were placed in these recesses. 60 01:03:55,636 --> 01:04:01,836 And this surely was a bar. 61 01:04:04,512 --> 01:04:09,506 Feels like it. Excellent. Amazing. Now - 62 01:04:10,752 --> 01:04:12,583 - ah, now this is what l've been looking for. 63 01:04:13,421 --> 01:04:14,581 Fascinating. 64 01:04:14,822 --> 01:04:18,383 Defence in depth. A great - stone wheel. 65 01:04:18,559 --> 01:04:22,859 That could with not too much difficulty, a couple of people perhaps, 66 01:04:23,031 --> 01:04:27,832 be pushed or rolled down to block the door. 67 01:04:28,403 --> 01:04:32,134 And here is a ramp going to the outside world. 68 01:04:39,647 --> 01:04:44,084 Good Lord, what a huge shaft. 69 01:04:44,352 --> 01:04:46,786 So far down l can't see the bottom. 70 01:04:46,954 --> 01:04:50,219 And so far up - l can't see the top. 71 01:04:51,092 --> 01:04:53,560 lt's a ventilation shaft of course. 72 01:04:53,795 --> 01:04:56,593 Getting air into this - place, fresh air, 73 01:04:56,764 --> 01:05:00,757 and the stale air out was a immense problem, 74 01:05:00,935 --> 01:05:03,665 and of course good ventilation 75 01:05:03,838 --> 01:05:07,672 is the secret for the success of this as a refuge. 76 01:05:18,686 --> 01:05:21,120 This must have been a very grim place 77 01:05:21,289 --> 01:05:23,849 in which to live for any length of time. 78 01:05:24,025 --> 01:05:28,325 The smell, the darkness, the noise. 79 01:05:28,529 --> 01:05:36,459 But it's also a monument to man's ability to creatively manipulate nature, 80 01:05:36,637 --> 01:05:38,400 manipulate the landscape. 81 01:05:39,040 --> 01:05:46,811 But it is very strange. And erm, l suppose one would get used to it, would feel safe. 82 01:05:46,981 --> 01:05:51,111 But no, it would have been very difficult to be here. 83 01:06:16,377 --> 01:06:17,435 l need a haircut, 84 01:06:17,612 --> 01:06:20,308 and in town l hear of a man who cuts hair. 85 01:06:20,481 --> 01:06:23,075 He sounds like a barber, but he's not. 86 01:06:23,251 --> 01:06:24,843 He collects the stuff. 87 01:06:25,019 --> 01:06:26,577 l must investigate. 88 01:06:27,922 --> 01:06:30,755 Big scissors up there, a promising sign. 89 01:06:31,926 --> 01:06:34,019 - How do you do? Hair. - Hair. 90 01:06:34,195 --> 01:06:35,389 Hair. My hair? 91 01:06:35,763 --> 01:06:38,561 - Only ladies' hair. - Just ladies' hair. 92 01:06:38,733 --> 01:06:39,392 Just ladies. 93 01:06:39,567 --> 01:06:42,502 Why - why do you erm, silly question perhaps, 94 01:06:42,670 --> 01:06:44,262 why do you collect ladies' hair. 95 01:06:44,438 --> 01:06:46,099 - Why not? - No, why not? 96 01:06:46,274 --> 01:06:47,673 That's a perfectly good answer. 97 01:06:47,975 --> 01:06:51,502 You just have a thing about ladies' hair. So do l actually. 98 01:06:54,649 --> 01:06:56,446 You've got - you've got to volunteer to be - 99 01:06:56,717 --> 01:06:58,708 this is absolutely appalling - l mean, absolutely wonderful. 100 01:06:58,886 --> 01:07:01,047 Every piece of hair has a label on it. 101 01:07:08,496 --> 01:07:10,726 l haven't met so many women in the world actually. 102 01:07:11,465 --> 01:07:12,454 No, look. 103 01:07:13,000 --> 01:07:14,160 They're everywhere. 104 01:07:18,439 --> 01:07:20,600 They all seem to be blonde, and you're both blonde. 105 01:07:21,375 --> 01:07:22,967 This is even more peculiar. 106 01:07:24,111 --> 01:07:25,976 So no, no chaps, no men's hair at all. 107 01:07:26,147 --> 01:07:28,047 No, that - that would break the spell. 108 01:07:36,891 --> 01:07:38,358 l head north to lstanbul, 109 01:07:38,526 --> 01:07:40,187 the capital of modern Turkey, 110 01:07:40,361 --> 01:07:43,626 but once heart of the great empire of Byzantium. 111 01:07:52,273 --> 01:07:54,833 l'm crossing the Bosphorus at lstanbul, 112 01:07:55,009 --> 01:08:00,470 crossing from - Asia, over there on my left - to Europe. 113 01:08:00,982 --> 01:08:03,951 Always an historic and a emotional moment, 114 01:08:04,118 --> 01:08:06,643 this leaping from one world to the other, 115 01:08:06,821 --> 01:08:09,119 but particularly so now for me, 116 01:08:09,290 --> 01:08:14,057 because it means l'm coming - to the end of my epic around-the-world journey. 117 01:08:14,562 --> 01:08:17,429 l'm entering - familiar territory. 118 01:08:17,765 --> 01:08:19,164 l'm nearing home. 119 01:08:27,942 --> 01:08:31,275 When l land l'm going to see one of the greatest buildings in the world, 120 01:08:31,445 --> 01:08:35,973 a building that had a huge influence on Western architecture. 121 01:08:40,187 --> 01:08:41,211 Thank you. 122 01:08:49,897 --> 01:08:53,560 lstanbul still feels like a city where two worlds meet, 123 01:08:54,001 --> 01:08:57,334 the Christian world and the lslamic world. 124 01:08:59,006 --> 01:09:00,667 At its heart is my treasure - 125 01:09:00,841 --> 01:09:03,332 once a church, then a mosque. 126 01:09:11,552 --> 01:09:13,850 Hagia Sophia was built my the emperor Justinian 127 01:09:14,021 --> 01:09:15,989 in the 6th century AD. 128 01:09:16,757 --> 01:09:20,386 When completed, it was the greatest church in the world. 129 01:09:44,018 --> 01:09:46,851 What an astonishing space. 130 01:09:47,154 --> 01:09:52,888 When - Justinian walked in here in 537, 131 01:09:53,194 --> 01:09:54,593 after nearly six years of construction, 132 01:09:54,762 --> 01:09:58,289 he stood - probably - about here, 133 01:09:58,933 --> 01:10:04,303 and said, 'oh, Solomon, l have surpassed thee.' 134 01:10:04,472 --> 01:10:05,200 An incredible statement, 135 01:10:05,373 --> 01:10:09,241 referring of course - to Solomon's temple, 136 01:10:09,477 --> 01:10:18,044 the great temple that had inspired so many churches around the word. 137 01:10:19,520 --> 01:10:25,049 And l must say - Justinian had a point. 138 01:10:25,459 --> 01:10:34,094 This is - remains - one of the greatest sacred places ever. 139 01:10:59,894 --> 01:11:03,193 The name Hagia Sophia means divine wisdom. 140 01:11:03,364 --> 01:11:10,099 And here divine wisdom is made manifest - through elegant scientific construction, 141 01:11:10,271 --> 01:11:17,677 a construction that reveals the forces of nature, the power of god's creation. 142 01:11:18,746 --> 01:11:25,083 And in particular, the manifestation here is revealed through this mighty dome that sits, 143 01:11:25,252 --> 01:11:29,746 appears to float above the space in which l'm standing. 144 01:11:30,124 --> 01:11:32,058 This is how it works. 145 01:11:32,226 --> 01:11:39,189 lt's supported by a series of half domes and rises off great masonry piers, 146 01:11:39,366 --> 01:11:41,459 almost concealed in the structure. 147 01:11:41,669 --> 01:11:46,129 So the outward thrust of the dome, the horizontal lateral thrust, is - 148 01:11:46,307 --> 01:11:49,640 - countered by an almost equal thrust - 149 01:11:49,810 --> 01:11:54,406 - from this series of half domes and quarter domes below. 150 01:12:10,364 --> 01:12:14,095 l'm on a gallery immediately below the dome, 151 01:12:14,268 --> 01:12:20,264 and right down there is the er - the area where emperors were crowned. 152 01:12:20,508 --> 01:12:22,066 A long way down indeed. 153 01:12:22,276 --> 01:12:24,471 lt's very, very exhilarating being up here. 154 01:12:24,912 --> 01:12:29,315 You see the gallery doesn't feel that it'll take my weight if l toppled against it. 155 01:12:37,491 --> 01:12:42,758 This became a great prototype, a pioneering construction - 156 01:12:42,930 --> 01:12:45,990 - the first time a church had a great dome, 157 01:12:46,166 --> 01:12:47,565 a symbol - of the heavens. 158 01:12:47,735 --> 01:12:49,726 But after this, every great church, 159 01:12:49,904 --> 01:12:52,498 every great cathedral, had to have a dome. 160 01:12:52,673 --> 01:12:54,072 The Duomo in Florence, 161 01:12:54,241 --> 01:12:55,503 St Peter's in Rome, 162 01:12:55,676 --> 01:12:59,271 and of course St Paul's in London. 163 01:13:05,152 --> 01:13:08,053 With the rise of the Ottoman Empire in the 15th century, 164 01:13:08,222 --> 01:13:10,190 Aya Sophia became a mosque. 165 01:13:11,058 --> 01:13:12,525 Today it's a secular space, 166 01:13:12,693 --> 01:13:16,390 with sacred meaning to both Christians and Muslims. 167 01:13:20,868 --> 01:13:21,527 Good evening. 168 01:13:21,702 --> 01:13:24,466 - How do you do? Hello. - Hello. Welcome. 169 01:13:24,638 --> 01:13:26,037 How do you do? 170 01:13:26,740 --> 01:13:29,868 l want to - l've been travelling round the world for four months. 171 01:13:30,044 --> 01:13:31,534 l want a little bit of a haircut. 172 01:13:31,879 --> 01:13:32,811 Please, please. 173 01:13:32,980 --> 01:13:33,537 Wash. 174 01:13:33,714 --> 01:13:35,079 Wash. Okay, wash. 175 01:13:35,616 --> 01:13:37,379 Gentle massage, oh dear. 176 01:13:42,389 --> 01:13:43,253 Oh my god. 177 01:13:59,873 --> 01:14:01,306 Oh my god, what's happening? 178 01:14:02,042 --> 01:14:03,134 Don't worry, sir. 179 01:14:04,311 --> 01:14:05,972 Ow. Ow! 180 01:14:06,647 --> 01:14:12,381 My ear's burnt. The smell of the burning flesh. 181 01:14:16,390 --> 01:14:17,948 Sorry, who asked for this? 182 01:14:26,900 --> 01:14:27,764 Good night. 183 01:14:28,035 --> 01:14:29,297 - A pleasure. - Thank you. 184 01:14:32,573 --> 01:14:33,801 Good evening. 185 01:14:35,976 --> 01:14:39,139 Brain, lamb's brain. Absolutely. Maybe a couple. 186 01:14:45,019 --> 01:14:51,356 Mm, reminds me of the testicles l had outside Petra. 187 01:14:52,526 --> 01:14:53,686 Bit better actually. 188 01:14:55,262 --> 01:14:57,594 Definitely a bit better than testicles. 189 01:14:57,765 --> 01:15:02,702 Ah. Though testicles are very good. 190 01:15:06,540 --> 01:15:09,805 From lstanbul l fly to Russia. 191 01:15:18,552 --> 01:15:21,783 l haven't been here since this was the Soviet Union. 192 01:15:22,289 --> 01:15:27,522 Advertising neon-adorned walls once boasting Communist slogans. 193 01:15:35,636 --> 01:15:38,264 But Red Square remains what it always has been, 194 01:15:38,439 --> 01:15:43,741 a glorious testament to Russia's might and totalitarian history. 195 01:15:57,024 --> 01:15:59,151 And this is where l'm heading. 196 01:16:01,061 --> 01:16:03,529 My treasure is - experienced, 197 01:16:03,697 --> 01:16:08,225 enjoyed by over seven million people a day. 198 01:16:12,206 --> 01:16:18,236 lt's a world within a world, and l'm already in it. 199 01:16:23,650 --> 01:16:24,708 Hello. 200 01:16:25,018 --> 01:16:26,383 Er, one ticket... 201 01:16:27,387 --> 01:16:29,480 This is the Moscow metro, 202 01:16:29,656 --> 01:16:33,057 the greatest underground railway in the world. 203 01:16:33,494 --> 01:16:35,689 Construction began in 1931, 204 01:16:35,863 --> 01:16:37,956 and the intention was simple: 205 01:16:38,132 --> 01:16:41,533 to show the world that Soviet technical and artistic excellence 206 01:16:41,702 --> 01:16:44,034 was better than anywhere else. 207 01:16:44,438 --> 01:16:48,033 We're only being allowed down here to film with a guide - 208 01:16:48,208 --> 01:16:51,575 - a charming woman with a lovely red hat. 209 01:16:55,048 --> 01:16:58,381 And now l arrive at this great classical hall, 210 01:16:58,552 --> 01:17:00,452 like a palace ballroom. 211 01:17:00,921 --> 01:17:06,359 Barrel vault, chandeliers, mosaics on the wall - 212 01:17:06,593 --> 01:17:09,391 - and rich and inventive classical detail. 213 01:17:17,704 --> 01:17:20,639 This is the great Komsomolskaya Station. 214 01:17:20,841 --> 01:17:23,207 lt sits at the very heart of the network. 215 01:17:27,447 --> 01:17:29,608 You may think that this opulence is associated - 216 01:17:29,783 --> 01:17:33,879 - with the Tsarist times and with at least palace life. 217 01:17:34,054 --> 01:17:35,578 But that is the one thing the Soviet authorities 218 01:17:35,756 --> 01:17:37,883 would have rejected in 1931 219 01:17:38,058 --> 01:17:40,049 when the decision was made to build the metro. 220 01:17:40,227 --> 01:17:41,956 But things were more sophisticated than that. 221 01:17:42,129 --> 01:17:47,362 lt was recognised this great palatial decoration had great meaning for ordinary people. 222 01:17:47,534 --> 01:17:49,126 lt would enrich their lives, 223 01:17:49,303 --> 01:17:51,931 would make travel through the city a pleasure. 224 01:17:52,105 --> 01:17:54,335 And - within this architecture 225 01:17:54,508 --> 01:17:59,844 is embedded various significant images and symbols about the Soviet triumph. 226 01:18:00,013 --> 01:18:03,210 lt really is a very, very - clever piece of work, 227 01:18:03,383 --> 01:18:08,377 presided over and given meaning and pedigree by the great man himself - 228 01:18:08,555 --> 01:18:09,419 Lenin. 229 01:18:12,926 --> 01:18:15,190 This station is only one of the many lavish 230 01:18:15,362 --> 01:18:18,126 and themed stations on the Moscow metro. 231 01:18:19,366 --> 01:18:21,027 One need only pop onto a train 232 01:18:21,201 --> 01:18:23,431 to discover new wonders. 233 01:18:34,715 --> 01:18:36,046 At Mayakovsky Station 234 01:18:36,316 --> 01:18:42,050 you really get the idea of the metro system as an idealised underground city, 235 01:18:42,289 --> 01:18:43,881 clean and beautiful, 236 01:18:44,057 --> 01:18:48,323 because in the vaults above my head are these - mosaics. 237 01:18:48,495 --> 01:18:51,487 Here, your window into the world above. 238 01:18:51,765 --> 01:18:58,796 A worm's eye view of the city. lt shows sky, planes and bits of buildings. 239 01:18:58,972 --> 01:19:03,875 l really do feel - l'm walking below the real, 240 01:19:04,044 --> 01:19:07,241 dangerous and rather ugly world above. 241 01:19:09,750 --> 01:19:12,344 Within only 25 years of being commissioned, 242 01:19:12,519 --> 01:19:16,046 the Moscow metro had 41 miles of track, 243 01:19:17,357 --> 01:19:18,619 and 45 stations, 244 01:19:18,792 --> 01:19:20,885 employing only Russian materials, 245 01:19:21,061 --> 01:19:23,188 designers and engineers. 246 01:19:25,899 --> 01:19:28,925 This is Revolution Square, and er, 247 01:19:30,304 --> 01:19:35,332 here is an amazing figure commemorating the October Revolution, 248 01:19:35,509 --> 01:19:37,204 October 1917. 249 01:19:37,377 --> 01:19:43,782 A sailor armed with a gun with the hammer cocked. lncredible stuff. 250 01:19:47,387 --> 01:19:50,083 One can't help but compare these heroic bronze figures 251 01:19:50,257 --> 01:19:52,191 fighting for a better world 252 01:19:52,359 --> 01:19:54,657 with the inheritors of that world. 253 01:19:55,028 --> 01:19:57,326 Only now the struggle is for Capitalism 254 01:19:57,497 --> 01:19:59,328 to deliver a better future. 255 01:20:07,674 --> 01:20:10,541 The Soviet era may have come to grief above ground, 256 01:20:10,711 --> 01:20:13,339 but it certainly lives on down here. 257 01:20:23,857 --> 01:20:25,722 Well, l've come to Mayakovsky Park on the edge - 258 01:20:25,892 --> 01:20:27,723 - of the centre of Moscow. 259 01:20:27,894 --> 01:20:29,919 This is the great Sunday market. 260 01:20:30,430 --> 01:20:31,624 Everything can be purchased here. 261 01:20:31,798 --> 01:20:32,730 l'm looking for a hat, 262 01:20:32,899 --> 01:20:37,302 because this one, l have to admit, after four months is, 263 01:20:37,471 --> 01:20:39,632 well, worn-out and maybe slightly inappropriate 264 01:20:39,806 --> 01:20:42,240 because l'm entering northern Europe and coldness, 265 01:20:42,409 --> 01:20:43,706 even snow. 266 01:20:45,445 --> 01:20:46,673 l know what l want erm, 267 01:20:47,447 --> 01:20:49,881 black hairy hat with ear - earflaps. 268 01:20:51,918 --> 01:20:53,146 - Hello. - Hello. 269 01:20:59,092 --> 01:21:00,423 Okay, thank you. 270 01:21:01,962 --> 01:21:03,520 Too small. My head's too big. 271 01:21:05,766 --> 01:21:07,961 Too - too small. 272 01:21:11,571 --> 01:21:13,198 Ah, hat. 273 01:21:14,441 --> 01:21:15,772 This is more like it. 274 01:21:17,144 --> 01:21:18,771 No, l don't want - l don't want - l don't want mink. 275 01:21:18,945 --> 01:21:20,071 No, l don't want mink. 276 01:21:20,547 --> 01:21:21,946 And this one is - 277 01:21:29,456 --> 01:21:32,550 How much does a proper skin hat cost? 278 01:21:35,028 --> 01:21:36,188 ln such good condition. 279 01:21:37,464 --> 01:21:38,488 Oh, you've found a hat. 280 01:21:39,299 --> 01:21:41,199 He really wants to make a sale. 281 01:21:42,369 --> 01:21:43,996 Oh yes, that's very good. 282 01:21:46,073 --> 01:21:47,040 Okay. 283 01:21:49,709 --> 01:21:52,507 Four thousand. Get it - get it down. Let's get it down. 284 01:21:52,679 --> 01:21:54,738 - How much? - Four thousand. 285 01:21:54,915 --> 01:21:57,042 At last l find a hat that fits. 286 01:21:57,851 --> 01:21:58,681 But Russian free trade 287 01:21:58,852 --> 01:22:04,313 seems to depend on confusing the buyer into paying an exorbitant price. 288 01:22:04,491 --> 01:22:05,651 You said a thousand. 289 01:22:05,826 --> 01:22:06,622 Okay, one five. 290 01:22:06,793 --> 01:22:08,954 l'm not - you can't mess me about like this. 291 01:22:09,129 --> 01:22:11,120 You - you gave me a price. 292 01:22:11,364 --> 01:22:13,798 You said one - thousand, you said one thousand. 293 01:22:17,804 --> 01:22:19,431 Why fall out over 50 pence? 294 01:22:21,341 --> 01:22:22,968 Okay, there you go. 295 01:22:24,945 --> 01:22:27,937 We should have shaken - we should have shaken before. 296 01:22:28,381 --> 01:22:29,040 Thank you. Bye. 297 01:22:29,216 --> 01:22:30,877 Been good doing business with you. 298 01:22:34,121 --> 01:22:35,088 What a rogue. 299 01:22:36,857 --> 01:22:38,722 Soothed by Aeroflot chintz, 300 01:22:38,892 --> 01:22:41,690 l head north to St Petersburg. 301 01:22:51,605 --> 01:22:55,336 St Petersburg was the vision of one man: 302 01:22:55,509 --> 01:23:01,505 Tsar Peter the Great, who forced thousands of peasants and prisoners of war to build it. 303 01:23:02,649 --> 01:23:06,517 ln 1703 this was bleak marshland. 304 01:23:07,387 --> 01:23:08,820 Just a few decades later 305 01:23:08,989 --> 01:23:11,287 the magnificent city we see today 306 01:23:11,458 --> 01:23:13,722 was rising out of the swamp. 307 01:23:14,995 --> 01:23:17,429 lt remains one of the most impressive and ruthless feats 308 01:23:17,597 --> 01:23:20,532 of city building of the modern age. 309 01:23:21,735 --> 01:23:26,172 l'm arriving at St Petersburg much as a Russian nobleman would have done 310 01:23:26,339 --> 01:23:31,800 200 years - or so ago er, give or take the traffic jams. 311 01:23:32,412 --> 01:23:38,578 Erm, this is Nevsky Prospect, which is the backbone of the city, its great street. 312 01:23:38,752 --> 01:23:45,521 And it was erm, commissioned by Peter er, from a French architect - 313 01:23:45,692 --> 01:23:52,791 - and built by Swedish prisoners of war in the very early 1720s, mostly. 314 01:23:52,966 --> 01:23:56,527 lt was to be the great showcase of St Petersburg, 315 01:23:56,703 --> 01:24:00,264 lined with palaces and great public buildings. 316 01:24:00,440 --> 01:24:02,738 The point was to reveal to the world 317 01:24:02,909 --> 01:24:06,504 that Russia was no longer a cultural - backwater, 318 01:24:06,680 --> 01:24:10,707 but one of the great powers of Europe - military power 319 01:24:10,884 --> 01:24:13,318 and a great place of culture. 320 01:24:24,231 --> 01:24:25,721 The street's narrowing. 321 01:24:26,466 --> 01:24:29,924 One's whole sense is that one's being directed towards something special, 322 01:24:30,103 --> 01:24:31,570 this funnelling effect. 323 01:24:31,771 --> 01:24:33,762 lt's very dramatic, very theatrical. 324 01:24:35,308 --> 01:24:38,471 We're going below this arch, 325 01:24:39,112 --> 01:24:41,307 full of military trophies, 326 01:24:41,548 --> 01:24:43,573 incredible neo-classical details, 327 01:24:43,750 --> 01:24:46,844 lovely masks of ancient - warriors. 328 01:24:51,224 --> 01:24:52,748 One arch, another arch. 329 01:24:52,926 --> 01:24:55,053 And then, this is amazing, 330 01:24:55,228 --> 01:24:59,164 suddenly the space that's been funnelling in like that exposed, 331 01:24:59,332 --> 01:25:00,356 opens up and 332 01:25:00,533 --> 01:25:03,093 one's in this spectacular square. 333 01:25:03,303 --> 01:25:04,497 The palace square. 334 01:25:04,738 --> 01:25:09,175 ln front of me - is the Winter Palace of the Tsars. 335 01:25:18,018 --> 01:25:21,078 All these buildings were completed - after Peter's death. 336 01:25:21,254 --> 01:25:22,380 But that's not the point. 337 01:25:22,555 --> 01:25:25,183 They're realising, confirming his vision. 338 01:25:25,358 --> 01:25:26,347 An amazing thought, 339 01:25:26,526 --> 01:25:29,222 less than a hundred years after the plan 340 01:25:29,396 --> 01:25:33,230 was made to create a city here, a city was completed - 341 01:25:33,400 --> 01:25:37,769 a city that is one of the greatest cities in the world. 342 01:25:40,407 --> 01:25:45,367 But, perhaps strangely, none of this is my treasure. 343 01:25:55,455 --> 01:25:58,424 This little building may look rather drab, 344 01:25:58,591 --> 01:26:02,789 but it contains the secret of St Petersburg 345 01:26:02,962 --> 01:26:06,090 hidden like ajewel in a casket. 346 01:26:17,243 --> 01:26:19,677 This - is where it all started. 347 01:26:20,080 --> 01:26:21,570 This simple cabin 348 01:26:21,748 --> 01:26:26,412 is the first building created in St Petersburg. 349 01:26:26,820 --> 01:26:31,314 lt was built in the summer of 1703, in three days, 350 01:26:31,491 --> 01:26:33,618 by a party of soldiers. 351 01:26:34,194 --> 01:26:36,025 lt was built for Peter the Great; 352 01:26:36,196 --> 01:26:39,757 it was here that he sat imagining, 353 01:26:39,933 --> 01:26:43,391 conceiving the great city of St Petersburg. 354 01:26:47,006 --> 01:26:49,702 This cabin is the smallest palace in Russia, 355 01:26:49,876 --> 01:26:52,401 but to my mind the most moving. 356 01:26:53,680 --> 01:26:57,639 Through these windows Peter would have seen just marshland and forest. 357 01:26:58,518 --> 01:26:59,348 At that desk 358 01:26:59,519 --> 01:27:02,488 he realised his vision for a magnificent city. 359 01:27:05,091 --> 01:27:08,822 This cabin is a - remarkable and moving survival, 360 01:27:08,995 --> 01:27:11,156 but what does it mean? 361 01:27:11,331 --> 01:27:14,789 Well, the key is that Peter himself 362 01:27:14,968 --> 01:27:18,369 ordered its preservation in 1723. 363 01:27:19,406 --> 01:27:20,930 lt's very much a political statement. 364 01:27:21,274 --> 01:27:25,404 lts simplicity was meant to create a myth about Peter: 365 01:27:25,645 --> 01:27:28,614 a simple, modest, self-effacing man. 366 01:27:31,451 --> 01:27:33,510 So revered is the structure that no one, 367 01:27:33,686 --> 01:27:36,450 including me, is allowed inside. 368 01:27:42,495 --> 01:27:48,161 This little - sort of closet really - was his bedroom. 369 01:27:48,334 --> 01:27:49,301 lncredible. 370 01:27:49,469 --> 01:27:52,131 The fellow stood six foot eight inches tall. 371 01:27:52,305 --> 01:27:55,001 There's his coat and trousers over there. 372 01:27:55,608 --> 01:27:58,475 And he - well, he'd hardly fit in here. 373 01:27:59,446 --> 01:28:03,542 This shrine shows the almost monkish existence 374 01:28:03,716 --> 01:28:07,777 he lived here while he conceived in his imagination 375 01:28:07,954 --> 01:28:10,252 the great city of St Petersburg. 376 01:28:14,828 --> 01:28:20,562 Surely this must be one of the most beautiful visions of a city any man ever had. 377 01:28:30,777 --> 01:28:32,870 l fly north towards the White Sea, 378 01:28:33,046 --> 01:28:36,743 to a part of Russia that seems like another world. 379 01:28:37,217 --> 01:28:37,979 And the coldest leg 380 01:28:38,151 --> 01:28:40,119 of my journey so far. 381 01:29:13,720 --> 01:29:16,518 l'm a hundred miles south of the Arctic Circle, 382 01:29:16,689 --> 01:29:20,284 and entering a region of myth and folklore. 383 01:29:20,527 --> 01:29:23,155 Ahead of me - lies a group of islands, 384 01:29:23,329 --> 01:29:25,354 and they are my destination, 385 01:29:25,532 --> 01:29:27,830 because there - on one of these islands, 386 01:29:28,001 --> 01:29:32,165 is a place that in itself tells the history of Russia. 387 01:29:45,385 --> 01:29:49,845 ln 1429 two monks, 388 01:29:50,490 --> 01:29:55,086 one called Savati, the other called German, 389 01:29:55,395 --> 01:29:58,694 landed here on Solovski lsland. 390 01:29:58,865 --> 01:30:01,595 They'd made a two-day trip from the mainland, 391 01:30:01,768 --> 01:30:03,326 a dangerous journey. 392 01:30:03,937 --> 01:30:08,340 They came here because it was deserted, that was the point. 393 01:30:08,575 --> 01:30:11,840 They were hermits really. They wanted to live in solitude, 394 01:30:12,011 --> 01:30:14,707 to contemplate their god alone. 395 01:30:15,081 --> 01:30:16,309 They landed about here, 396 01:30:16,482 --> 01:30:23,411 and somewhere over there they started to build a chapel and two cells in which to live. 397 01:30:27,594 --> 01:30:30,085 Word spread about the two hermits at Solovki, 398 01:30:30,263 --> 01:30:33,061 and a religious community grew up around them. 399 01:30:33,533 --> 01:30:35,160 A little over a hundred years later, 400 01:30:35,335 --> 01:30:39,567 they built a fantastic stronghold to ensure their survival. 401 01:30:51,517 --> 01:30:53,417 ln a beautiful and dramatic way 402 01:30:53,586 --> 01:30:56,851 the monastery is a microcosm of Russia. 403 01:30:57,123 --> 01:30:58,681 Many of the great characters 404 01:30:58,858 --> 01:31:01,452 and social events in the nation's history 405 01:31:01,628 --> 01:31:04,188 have left their mark here. 406 01:31:04,831 --> 01:31:05,559 To enter the monastery 407 01:31:05,732 --> 01:31:09,031 is to enter the soul of Russia, 408 01:31:09,469 --> 01:31:13,462 to see its dark side, but also its glory. 409 01:31:19,946 --> 01:31:23,211 lt seems more a fortress than a monastery, 410 01:31:23,383 --> 01:31:27,820 but then it is a monastery with a difference. 411 01:31:28,154 --> 01:31:29,678 A place of worldly power, 412 01:31:29,856 --> 01:31:32,586 of trade as well, and of God. 413 01:31:32,759 --> 01:31:37,162 lt was the capital of this part of Russia, 414 01:31:37,330 --> 01:31:41,164 and also a great bastion against invasion, 415 01:31:41,334 --> 01:31:46,067 a great defence against the Swedes, the Danes, and indeed against the English, 416 01:31:46,239 --> 01:31:47,399 who in the early 17th century 417 01:31:47,573 --> 01:31:49,006 wanted to seize this area 418 01:31:49,175 --> 01:31:55,478 because this was, they said, the richest place of its date in the world. 419 01:31:57,083 --> 01:32:00,575 The monks became so confident that they rebelled against the Tsar 420 01:32:00,753 --> 01:32:03,187 when he introduced church reforms. 421 01:32:04,057 --> 01:32:06,355 ln retaliation, in 1668, 422 01:32:06,526 --> 01:32:08,118 an army was sent from Moscow 423 01:32:08,294 --> 01:32:10,956 and an eight-year siege ensued. 424 01:32:12,832 --> 01:32:17,098 Eventually it was a monk that betrayed the monastery. 425 01:32:17,270 --> 01:32:21,434 He told the Tsarist soldiers about a small door in the wall, 426 01:32:21,607 --> 01:32:25,065 a postern, that was very poorly bricked up. 427 01:32:25,578 --> 01:32:27,375 They went to that door by night - 428 01:32:28,014 --> 01:32:32,610 - and broke it open, just over there, then they entered secretly - 429 01:32:32,785 --> 01:32:36,277 and took the monks entirely by surprise. 430 01:32:36,456 --> 01:32:39,050 The soldiers' blood was up. They were angry. 431 01:32:39,225 --> 01:32:40,385 They attacked the monks 432 01:32:40,560 --> 01:32:42,289 and almost 40 were killed. 433 01:32:42,462 --> 01:32:44,327 Some were hung up by their heels 434 01:32:44,497 --> 01:32:45,987 and beaten till they died, 435 01:32:46,165 --> 01:32:48,224 others were tied behind horses 436 01:32:48,401 --> 01:32:50,869 and dragged to their deaths. 437 01:32:54,741 --> 01:32:56,436 Back under Tsarist control, 438 01:32:56,609 --> 01:32:59,703 Peter the Great used Solovki as a prison. 439 01:33:00,446 --> 01:33:02,107 And though monastic life returned, 440 01:33:02,281 --> 01:33:05,682 Solovki would once again sink into despair. 441 01:33:08,154 --> 01:33:11,055 After the Communist revolution of 1917, 442 01:33:11,224 --> 01:33:14,523 it was here, in and around the monastery, 443 01:33:14,694 --> 01:33:18,357 that the Soviet regime set up the first Gulag - 444 01:33:18,531 --> 01:33:22,433 a concentration camp for political prisoners. 445 01:33:23,002 --> 01:33:23,969 At its peak, 446 01:33:24,137 --> 01:33:26,503 50,000 were held at Solovki, 447 01:33:26,672 --> 01:33:29,334 and very many died here. 448 01:33:31,577 --> 01:33:37,038 This is one of the most infamous rooms in Russian history. 449 01:33:37,817 --> 01:33:40,377 This was built in the mid-19th century 450 01:33:40,553 --> 01:33:43,317 as the cathedral - of the Holy Trinity, 451 01:33:43,489 --> 01:33:50,258 but in 1924 became Company 13. 452 01:33:51,264 --> 01:33:54,631 This was where all male prisoners 453 01:33:54,801 --> 01:33:59,101 who were brought to this Gulag were placed for three months. 454 01:34:00,106 --> 01:34:04,600 ln this space, from 1924 to 1937, 455 01:34:05,144 --> 01:34:09,410 lived at any one time 800-850 men, 456 01:34:11,384 --> 01:34:15,150 in bunks tiered up - towards the ceiling. 457 01:34:15,388 --> 01:34:17,879 And below this world of bunks, 458 01:34:18,057 --> 01:34:19,888 living in filth, were children. 459 01:34:20,493 --> 01:34:21,721 They weren't know about, they weren't documented, 460 01:34:21,894 --> 01:34:23,759 weren't fed by the camp authorities. 461 01:34:23,930 --> 01:34:27,832 They skulked in this room below the bunks of the - of the men. 462 01:34:28,000 --> 01:34:29,467 lt's a heartbreaking and terrible story. 463 01:34:29,635 --> 01:34:33,833 And here l'm looking at the main altar at the east end, 464 01:34:34,006 --> 01:34:36,600 this was given over to the latrines. 465 01:34:38,511 --> 01:34:39,910 A frightful insult. 466 01:34:40,146 --> 01:34:43,877 And up there, where there had been a picture of Christ, 467 01:34:44,050 --> 01:34:46,814 was a picture of Lenin, 468 01:34:46,986 --> 01:34:49,454 a mockery really, the whole thing. 469 01:34:49,622 --> 01:34:51,089 A form of psychological warfare 470 01:34:51,257 --> 01:34:57,321 to destroy the will and souls of these poor human beings 471 01:34:58,397 --> 01:35:02,060 who for all those years suffered in this space. 472 01:35:02,602 --> 01:35:06,971 And the only way out, of course, was death. 473 01:35:19,685 --> 01:35:23,553 Around the monastery life still seems very bleak. 474 01:35:24,957 --> 01:35:28,449 As if the people are stuck in the dying years of Communism. 475 01:35:29,128 --> 01:35:32,655 This is the - town square, l suppose. 476 01:35:32,999 --> 01:35:37,231 Golly, erm, this - building is one of the Gulag buildings 477 01:35:37,403 --> 01:35:39,769 dating from the late 1920s - 478 01:35:40,273 --> 01:35:42,104 - where prisoners were confined. 479 01:35:42,642 --> 01:35:45,543 There's still the air of a Gulag about this place, 480 01:35:45,711 --> 01:35:48,509 still a sense of people being confined here. 481 01:35:51,384 --> 01:35:53,477 People are emerging. Ah. 482 01:35:54,353 --> 01:35:56,685 Good morning. Hello. 483 01:35:59,959 --> 01:36:00,482 Good morning. 484 01:36:00,660 --> 01:36:02,491 Can l get a drink in there? 485 01:36:02,962 --> 01:36:04,259 No, it's closed. 486 01:36:04,497 --> 01:36:08,331 Ah. No, no good. Closed at the moment. 487 01:36:10,903 --> 01:36:13,064 My goodness, what a bleak place this is. 488 01:36:13,239 --> 01:36:15,503 l say, these people look - look like they're prisoners themselves - 489 01:36:15,675 --> 01:36:19,133 - that they've left - been left over from the Gulag. 490 01:36:20,246 --> 01:36:21,508 Very odd. 491 01:36:39,999 --> 01:36:42,263 Since the fall of the Soviet regime, 492 01:36:42,668 --> 01:36:45,136 monks have returned to the monastery. 493 01:36:45,504 --> 01:36:47,631 History has come full circle. 494 01:36:48,374 --> 01:36:52,538 Life is lived here much as it would have been 400 years ago. 495 01:37:18,137 --> 01:37:19,627 l fly south to Poland. 496 01:37:19,805 --> 01:37:24,504 l'm on ajourney into my own past, into my memory. 497 01:37:38,090 --> 01:37:43,027 As a child - a very young child, l lived for some years in Poland. 498 01:37:43,195 --> 01:37:46,961 My father was a - ajournalist based in Warsaw. 499 01:37:47,133 --> 01:37:49,124 This is almost 50 years ago. 500 01:37:49,301 --> 01:37:51,769 A very, very different place now. 501 01:37:52,505 --> 01:37:57,374 We came here, Krakow, for a holiday. 502 01:37:58,944 --> 01:38:00,138 Beautiful city. 503 01:38:00,312 --> 01:38:01,574 lt was here - and it comes back to me now - 504 01:38:01,747 --> 01:38:04,443 - as l stand in this delightful square - 505 01:38:04,617 --> 01:38:09,281 it was here that l fell in love with architecture. 506 01:38:13,459 --> 01:38:16,019 Miraculously, Krakow escaped the destruction 507 01:38:16,195 --> 01:38:17,856 of the Second World War. 508 01:38:18,731 --> 01:38:22,861 Legend has it, the German Commandant refused to obey orders from Hitler 509 01:38:23,035 --> 01:38:26,004 in the dying days of the war to flatten the city. 510 01:38:54,300 --> 01:38:57,599 There's a sound that cuts through me like a knife, 511 01:38:57,770 --> 01:38:59,203 brings back such memories. 512 01:38:59,371 --> 01:39:02,340 Every hour, that chap up there playing his bugle, 513 01:39:02,508 --> 01:39:06,069 the sound of that very haunting little tune. 514 01:39:06,245 --> 01:39:07,906 The story is in the 13th century 515 01:39:08,080 --> 01:39:12,414 there was a watchman up there looking around at the fields, the plains around the town, 516 01:39:12,585 --> 01:39:13,347 watching for attackers, 517 01:39:13,519 --> 01:39:14,645 and when the attackers came, 518 01:39:14,820 --> 01:39:17,880 these fearsome nomadic warriors, the Tartars, 519 01:39:18,057 --> 01:39:19,319 he sounded a warning note, 520 01:39:19,492 --> 01:39:21,824 but a Tatar arrow got him in the throat 521 01:39:21,994 --> 01:39:23,859 just as he was finishing the warning, 522 01:39:24,029 --> 01:39:29,296 and that's why that note ends on a haunting broken note 523 01:39:29,468 --> 01:39:31,959 as the arrow severs his neck. 524 01:39:39,678 --> 01:39:41,339 l must head to the edge of town, 525 01:39:41,514 --> 01:39:44,915 to find a treasure that transports me back in time 526 01:39:45,084 --> 01:39:47,450 to Communist Poland of 1957, 527 01:39:47,620 --> 01:39:49,588 when l was eight years old. 528 01:39:50,489 --> 01:39:52,957 This is the Wieliczka salt mines 529 01:39:53,125 --> 01:39:55,059 a few miles from the centre of Krakow. 530 01:39:55,227 --> 01:39:57,695 This is a very exciting moment for me. 531 01:39:57,863 --> 01:40:00,127 When l came here as a child, 532 01:40:00,299 --> 01:40:03,530 this place absolutely gripped my imagination, 533 01:40:03,702 --> 01:40:07,001 and indeed has haunted my imagination - ever since. 534 01:40:07,173 --> 01:40:12,543 Will this - experience l'm about to have now live up to my memories, 535 01:40:12,711 --> 01:40:14,975 or will it be a bitter disappointment? 536 01:40:22,087 --> 01:40:25,784 The Wieliczka salt mine began operating in the 13th century. 537 01:40:26,392 --> 01:40:30,294 At one point it created 30 per cent of Poland's income. 538 01:40:31,096 --> 01:40:33,530 The mine is 327 metres deep, 539 01:40:33,699 --> 01:40:37,897 and the chambers and passages stretch for over 300 kilometres. 540 01:40:39,305 --> 01:40:41,705 lt's not the size of the mine that is so haunting, 541 01:40:41,874 --> 01:40:45,469 but the extraordinary art that the miners have created inside it. 542 01:40:52,985 --> 01:40:55,283 This is the Chapel of the Blessed Kinga, 543 01:40:55,454 --> 01:40:58,446 the patron saint of Polish miners. 544 01:40:58,691 --> 01:41:00,955 Started in 1896, 545 01:41:01,260 --> 01:41:05,094 everything here is carved out of salt by miners. 546 01:41:05,531 --> 01:41:09,627 lncluding the walls, floor, statues and chandeliers. 547 01:41:12,071 --> 01:41:13,766 Memories coming back. 548 01:41:14,139 --> 01:41:15,572 This is incredible. 549 01:41:15,808 --> 01:41:18,333 This is erm, yes, St Anthony's Chapel. 550 01:41:19,178 --> 01:41:22,204 From the late 17th - century. 551 01:41:23,382 --> 01:41:27,978 This is where l discovered that er, fairyland is real. 552 01:41:28,420 --> 01:41:33,983 Look at this fantastic stuff. From the salt, architecture, classical architecture, 553 01:41:34,159 --> 01:41:37,458 really from primitive salt, lovely, been carved. 554 01:41:41,033 --> 01:41:42,898 And figures of saints. 555 01:41:48,173 --> 01:41:52,974 Look at this - a chandelier of salt. Salt crystals. 556 01:41:53,145 --> 01:41:55,204 lsn't that absolutely brilliant? 557 01:41:57,783 --> 01:42:00,581 All made by the miners, that's the thing. 558 01:42:00,753 --> 01:42:05,087 This is working man's art - not the art of artists, 559 01:42:05,257 --> 01:42:10,217 but ordinary people celebrating their god in their place of work. 560 01:42:10,396 --> 01:42:11,260 lt's fantastic. 561 01:42:11,430 --> 01:42:13,694 Yes - yes, this is - this is it. 562 01:42:15,901 --> 01:42:19,268 But as l penetrate deeper, there are more new additions. 563 01:42:36,655 --> 01:42:39,180 Well, l said this place was like fairyland, 564 01:42:39,358 --> 01:42:43,385 when l first came here, but l didn't mean like - this, sort of gnomeland. 565 01:42:43,595 --> 01:42:45,187 This is quite astonishing. 566 01:42:45,364 --> 01:42:47,355 What on earth is going on? 567 01:42:55,174 --> 01:42:57,199 What was so moving is now in danger of 568 01:42:57,376 --> 01:43:00,311 being tarnished to attract more tourists. 569 01:43:00,479 --> 01:43:02,709 Only Snow White is missing. 570 01:43:02,915 --> 01:43:06,180 - Ah - excuse me. - Yeah. 571 01:43:06,552 --> 01:43:09,248 l can see by your tie that you are a guide. 572 01:43:09,421 --> 01:43:09,944 Yes, l am. 573 01:43:10,122 --> 01:43:10,781 We are from the BBC 574 01:43:10,956 --> 01:43:12,719 making a little programme about the salt mines, 575 01:43:12,891 --> 01:43:17,055 and l have memories of this place many years ago and erm, 576 01:43:17,262 --> 01:43:19,958 l remember it slightly less presented as a museum. 577 01:43:20,132 --> 01:43:23,124 Are there still parts of the mine which are more authentic, 578 01:43:23,302 --> 01:43:26,203 which are more as it would have been when it was a living, working mine? 579 01:43:26,372 --> 01:43:27,634 Of course, if you would like to, 580 01:43:27,806 --> 01:43:29,831 l can take you to another point of the mine 581 01:43:30,008 --> 01:43:31,373 which is not so beautiful. 582 01:43:31,543 --> 01:43:35,104 lt's part of the tour, and you will be really satisfied. 583 01:43:35,280 --> 01:43:36,713 Oh well, lovely. Satisfaction. 584 01:43:36,882 --> 01:43:39,316 Excellent, thank you very much. Er, lead on. 585 01:43:45,657 --> 01:43:49,753 Commercial salt production at Wieliczka stopped ten years ago. 586 01:43:50,396 --> 01:43:51,624 But one part of the mine 587 01:43:51,797 --> 01:43:54,265 is still being used by mineralogists. 588 01:43:54,767 --> 01:43:56,200 We walk for an hour. 589 01:43:56,802 --> 01:43:59,134 l'm hoping to see more carving. 590 01:43:59,972 --> 01:44:03,135 Obviously the miners felt in some state of peril, 591 01:44:03,308 --> 01:44:07,210 asking for protection as they worked the salt. 592 01:44:10,849 --> 01:44:12,146 This is the power of nature. 593 01:44:12,317 --> 01:44:13,181 The power of nature. 594 01:44:13,352 --> 01:44:16,947 Yes. The mine - such huge props, 595 01:44:17,122 --> 01:44:19,920 they were cracked, they are cracked like matches here. 596 01:44:20,092 --> 01:44:21,184 l think l'll move on. 597 01:44:21,794 --> 01:44:23,227 - Not sure what's happening up here. - Yeah, of course. 598 01:44:23,395 --> 01:44:24,419 - That's cracked too. - Yeah. 599 01:44:24,596 --> 01:44:27,497 Well, the whole thing's in movement. And look at this, the - the er - 600 01:44:27,666 --> 01:44:30,726 Yeah, salt crystallised. Yeah. 601 01:44:31,036 --> 01:44:34,130 That's fantastic. That's coming out of the rock. 602 01:44:35,073 --> 01:44:36,597 There is a seepage of the salt. 603 01:44:36,775 --> 01:44:38,174 lt's salty, l think. 604 01:44:38,610 --> 01:44:42,774 - Beautiful stalagtite, if you look in here. - Yeah. 605 01:44:49,288 --> 01:44:56,194 This is erm, this crystal is - salt - white gold. 606 01:44:56,361 --> 01:45:01,196 ln the past, salt was as valuable as gold or silver 607 01:45:01,366 --> 01:45:06,804 because of the huge demand but limited supply. 608 01:45:07,973 --> 01:45:10,271 Poles take great pride in them, 609 01:45:10,442 --> 01:45:14,776 what they represent, the industry, the activity and the natural beauty. 610 01:45:14,947 --> 01:45:21,511 They are, in their strange way, the heart of the nation. 611 01:45:25,190 --> 01:45:26,521 l fly to Germany, 612 01:45:26,692 --> 01:45:30,458 the country which more than any other has shaped the modern world 613 01:45:30,629 --> 01:45:34,326 through its catastrophic embrace of fascism and genocide. 614 01:45:36,168 --> 01:45:37,567 No European city has endured 615 01:45:37,736 --> 01:45:40,102 such upheavals as Berlin. 616 01:45:40,739 --> 01:45:43,333 lts pre-war innocence shattered by Hitler, 617 01:45:43,742 --> 01:45:46,302 its fabric smashed by allied bombing, 618 01:45:46,478 --> 01:45:50,278 it's post-war years caught up in a Cold War nightmare. 619 01:45:52,718 --> 01:45:55,084 After the wall came down in 1989, 620 01:45:55,254 --> 01:45:58,690 the city began a frantic reinvention of itself. 621 01:45:59,992 --> 01:46:02,790 l want a treasure here that's contemporary yet 622 01:46:02,961 --> 01:46:07,955 also transports me unflinchingly back into this country's dark past. 623 01:46:11,036 --> 01:46:13,664 l've come to Berlin to see a car, 624 01:46:13,839 --> 01:46:17,798 that most problematic, emblematic of modern objects. 625 01:46:17,976 --> 01:46:20,740 But this is not just any car. 626 01:46:20,913 --> 01:46:22,813 lt was commissioned by Adolf Hitler, 627 01:46:22,981 --> 01:46:27,077 who in 1934 ordered the production of a car 628 01:46:27,252 --> 01:46:30,119 that all could afford to use and to run. 629 01:46:30,289 --> 01:46:34,248 lt was to contain two adults and three children, 630 01:46:34,426 --> 01:46:35,654 the ideal family, l suppose, 631 01:46:35,827 --> 01:46:38,295 and toot along at 60 miles an hour. 632 01:46:38,463 --> 01:46:42,297 And its form was to be inspired by natural history. 633 01:46:42,467 --> 01:46:45,732 And this is it. 634 01:46:55,213 --> 01:46:59,479 The Volkswagen beetle is a familiar sight for all road users, 635 01:47:00,218 --> 01:47:02,311 and it's easy to forget that the love bug, 636 01:47:02,487 --> 01:47:06,548 as it later became known, was a Nazi prestige project. 637 01:47:07,426 --> 01:47:10,156 Hitler said to Ferdinand Porsche, the designer, 638 01:47:10,429 --> 01:47:12,420 the car should look like a beetle - 639 01:47:12,598 --> 01:47:16,500 - look to nature to find out what streamlining's all about. 640 01:47:16,768 --> 01:47:19,965 Nature being the inspiration for functional design. 641 01:47:20,372 --> 01:47:23,341 And erm, on that note of functional design and - 642 01:47:23,508 --> 01:47:26,306 - economic design, of course, the engine is at the back. 643 01:47:26,478 --> 01:47:28,776 Here it is, a beautiful little thing, at the back, 644 01:47:28,947 --> 01:47:32,178 immediately above the rear wheels, the driving wheels, 645 01:47:32,351 --> 01:47:34,251 to make construction cheaper. 646 01:47:34,419 --> 01:47:36,250 And erm, what a lovely little engine it is. 647 01:47:36,421 --> 01:47:38,548 Look at it. Beautiful thing. Very elegant. 648 01:47:39,191 --> 01:47:44,493 Now l shall give this wonderful machine a road test. 649 01:47:45,163 --> 01:47:46,687 Oh, bit of a tight fit, 650 01:47:46,865 --> 01:47:51,427 but when l get my leg under the steering wheel, 651 01:47:51,603 --> 01:47:52,900 it's actually rather spacious. 652 01:47:53,438 --> 01:47:58,034 And indeed, here's me, my wife here, three children in the back - 653 01:47:58,210 --> 01:48:00,701 and there's room for storage. 654 01:48:01,279 --> 01:48:02,439 Very spacious. 655 01:48:07,486 --> 01:48:09,647 lndicators. Yes. 656 01:48:09,821 --> 01:48:11,982 Windscreen wipers, yes. 657 01:48:12,691 --> 01:48:16,320 Okay, well, let's take it - for a spin. 658 01:48:18,697 --> 01:48:20,028 lt works. 659 01:48:22,401 --> 01:48:26,360 The beetle first rolled off the production line in 1941. 660 01:48:26,538 --> 01:48:28,563 This particular car l'm driving 661 01:48:28,740 --> 01:48:32,938 was made during the war and belonged to Reichsminister Alfred Rosenberg, 662 01:48:33,478 --> 01:48:34,968 a member of Hitler's inner circle 663 01:48:35,147 --> 01:48:38,207 in control of the conquered Eastern territory. 664 01:48:39,251 --> 01:48:42,049 After the war, Rosenberg was found guilty of crimes 665 01:48:42,220 --> 01:48:46,418 against humanity at the Nuremberg trials and was executed. 666 01:48:50,095 --> 01:48:53,326 By the way, this particular model is erm, a delight to drive, 667 01:48:53,498 --> 01:48:56,899 except there appears to be virtually no footbrake. 668 01:48:57,069 --> 01:48:58,400 l guess all old cars are like this, 669 01:48:58,570 --> 01:49:04,008 but erm, when one puts one's foot down to stop very little happens, at first anyway. 670 01:49:06,144 --> 01:49:07,008 There we are. 671 01:49:07,179 --> 01:49:13,675 l've now halted this machine, using partly the handbrake. 672 01:49:32,104 --> 01:49:35,130 The Volkswagen beetle is a wonderful, 673 01:49:35,307 --> 01:49:41,405 wonderful machine that's risen above its troubled origins, its troubled history. 674 01:49:42,013 --> 01:49:45,346 lt is a great monument to utilitarian, 675 01:49:45,517 --> 01:49:48,042 practical, functional design. 676 01:49:48,920 --> 01:49:51,582 And l, along with millions of people in the world, 677 01:49:51,823 --> 01:49:52,687 love it. 678 01:49:53,525 --> 01:50:01,762 But l am aware that er, cars are entirely problematic creations, 679 01:50:01,933 --> 01:50:07,098 leading to pollution of the cities and their roads, 680 01:50:07,272 --> 01:50:13,541 the roads on which they run wrecking the countryside and damaging historic places. 681 01:50:13,712 --> 01:50:17,546 So it's a bit worrying to love something like this, l guess, 682 01:50:17,716 --> 01:50:21,482 something which is ultimately rather devilish. 683 01:50:24,055 --> 01:50:26,285 Last of all, but no less importantly, 684 01:50:26,458 --> 01:50:29,985 the beetle is also the means of transport to my next treasure. 685 01:50:42,073 --> 01:50:45,167 l've driven to the Bauhaus in Dessau. 686 01:50:45,377 --> 01:50:49,006 This epoch-making, inspirational design school - 687 01:50:49,181 --> 01:50:50,614 - that during the 1920s, 688 01:50:50,782 --> 01:50:54,775 until it was closed by the Nazis in 1933, 689 01:50:54,953 --> 01:50:58,650 really - did much to forge the modern world. 690 01:50:58,824 --> 01:51:01,156 Many objects we now take for granted 691 01:51:01,459 --> 01:51:02,391 originated - here. 692 01:51:02,561 --> 01:51:05,621 Also the spirit of this place inspired designers, 693 01:51:05,797 --> 01:51:10,530 architects - interior designers, designers of furniture - throughout the world. 694 01:51:10,702 --> 01:51:13,136 l've come here to find one object 695 01:51:13,305 --> 01:51:17,469 that captures the spirit of this truly extraordinary 696 01:51:17,642 --> 01:51:20,440 and amazing institution, the Bauhaus. 697 01:51:23,114 --> 01:51:25,810 The Bauhaus school opened in 1919. 698 01:51:26,585 --> 01:51:29,816 lt rejected history as an inspiration for creativity. 699 01:51:30,288 --> 01:51:33,689 lnstead, students here embraced the technological age. 700 01:51:34,292 --> 01:51:37,489 They wanted function to define architecture and design, 701 01:51:37,662 --> 01:51:40,358 and they wanted to use new materials. 702 01:51:42,267 --> 01:51:44,827 This building, constructed in 1926, 703 01:51:45,003 --> 01:51:47,369 captures their ideas perfectly. 704 01:51:48,673 --> 01:51:50,937 But my treasure is not a building, 705 01:51:51,543 --> 01:51:53,738 it's something small and commonplace. 706 01:51:53,945 --> 01:51:55,173 lt's a chair. 707 01:51:56,248 --> 01:51:59,149 Before Bauhaus no one had dreamt of starting a revolution 708 01:51:59,317 --> 01:52:00,477 with a chair. 709 01:52:00,652 --> 01:52:02,745 But that's exactly what happened. 710 01:52:03,088 --> 01:52:05,613 So which chair to choose? 711 01:52:07,726 --> 01:52:10,490 Herr Messerschmitt, the Bauhaus archivist, 712 01:52:10,662 --> 01:52:15,429 has granted me exclusive access to the Bauhaus archives, 713 01:52:15,600 --> 01:52:18,501 just here through this secure door. 714 01:52:26,978 --> 01:52:29,811 Ah now, yeah, an old favourite. 715 01:52:30,815 --> 01:52:31,747 Danke schoen. 716 01:52:32,117 --> 01:52:35,280 The Wassily chair, designed in 1925. 717 01:52:35,453 --> 01:52:37,512 Very pioneering indeed. 718 01:52:37,722 --> 01:52:42,386 lt was the first time tubular steel was used in the construction of a chair. 719 01:52:43,128 --> 01:52:43,958 lt's great - in many ways, 720 01:52:44,129 --> 01:52:46,393 but now looks a little clumsy. 721 01:52:46,865 --> 01:52:48,696 A bit like a bird's nest, a lot going on, 722 01:52:48,867 --> 01:52:52,769 and not quite the elegance and simplicity l'm looking for. 723 01:52:53,038 --> 01:52:55,632 So erm, come back to perhaps. 724 01:52:56,441 --> 01:52:58,432 Herr Messerschmitt, next one please. 725 01:52:58,910 --> 01:53:00,275 For me to inspect. 726 01:53:03,915 --> 01:53:05,280 Ah yes. 727 01:53:06,351 --> 01:53:07,545 Danke schoen, thank you. 728 01:53:07,719 --> 01:53:09,050 A simpler design. 729 01:53:10,288 --> 01:53:12,188 A bit later, 1929. 730 01:53:12,657 --> 01:53:14,557 l choose this really because it is so simple. 731 01:53:14,726 --> 01:53:17,024 lt's a chair we've all seen and used, l think. 732 01:53:17,329 --> 01:53:21,732 Making the point that er, the Bauhaus succeeded in its aim 733 01:53:21,900 --> 01:53:24,960 of providing elegant, functional, simple objects for everyday use, 734 01:53:25,136 --> 01:53:27,832 for ordinary people like you and me to enjoy. 735 01:53:28,006 --> 01:53:32,409 Here you have a very - simple chair, designed, as l say, in 1929 - 736 01:53:32,577 --> 01:53:36,104 and still in use and still looking entirely modern. 737 01:53:36,314 --> 01:53:40,080 So a glorious example of the Bauhaus ideal being achieved. 738 01:53:40,518 --> 01:53:42,213 Herr Messerschmit - the third one. 739 01:53:43,655 --> 01:53:46,715 l am now all a-tremble, because l know what this is. 740 01:53:49,060 --> 01:53:51,221 l hope. Ah, yes. 741 01:53:55,333 --> 01:53:59,599 What can l say? One or two things, actually. 742 01:54:01,206 --> 01:54:04,972 Designed by a different Bauhaus master, Mies van der Rohe. 743 01:54:05,276 --> 01:54:08,370 Designed 1929-1930. 744 01:54:08,747 --> 01:54:14,344 Mies was - the last director of the Bauhaus in 1930, 745 01:54:14,519 --> 01:54:15,679 so this is a very appropriate - 746 01:54:15,854 --> 01:54:17,913 monument to him and to the Bauhaus. 747 01:54:18,089 --> 01:54:19,488 Just look at this thing. 748 01:54:19,657 --> 01:54:21,318 The steel had to be manufactured and tested, 749 01:54:21,493 --> 01:54:24,462 so research was, as l say, very much part of the modern tradition. 750 01:54:24,629 --> 01:54:25,357 Cantilever principle, 751 01:54:25,530 --> 01:54:26,963 very simple construction, 752 01:54:27,132 --> 01:54:29,498 but the weight of the person, in a sense, holds the chair steady, 753 01:54:29,667 --> 01:54:32,397 makes it work as a - as an object. 754 01:54:32,737 --> 01:54:34,762 Look at the simplicity of it. Just look. 755 01:54:36,674 --> 01:54:43,910 What elegance. What function. What pure joyful simplicity. 756 01:54:44,082 --> 01:54:47,279 A beautiful thing to handle, to hold. 757 01:54:47,452 --> 01:54:49,352 God, just look at the form, the shape, 758 01:54:49,521 --> 01:54:51,284 as one - turns it round. 759 01:54:51,556 --> 01:54:54,252 The thing - comes alive, doesn't it? 760 01:54:54,926 --> 01:54:56,894 Put it down. And now the great test, 761 01:54:57,062 --> 01:54:59,758 to sit in it and see really - if it is functional. 762 01:54:59,931 --> 01:55:03,196 lt looks functional, it looks beautiful, minimal and simple. 763 01:55:03,468 --> 01:55:05,663 But will it take the mighty load? 764 01:55:05,837 --> 01:55:12,504 Oh, gosh. The chair's a-tremble and vibrating 765 01:55:12,677 --> 01:55:14,201 with my weight and movement. 766 01:55:15,113 --> 01:55:18,082 This without doubt, because of its functional qualities, 767 01:55:18,249 --> 01:55:23,585 because of its minimalism, because it really works - does its job, 768 01:55:24,456 --> 01:55:28,051 and of course at the end looks terrific and beautiful, 769 01:55:28,760 --> 01:55:32,719 has got to be, and is, my Bauhaus treasure. 770 01:55:55,520 --> 01:55:58,819 ln 1933 the Nazis closed down the Bauhaus 771 01:55:58,990 --> 01:56:01,550 believing it had Communist sympathies. 772 01:56:02,227 --> 01:56:05,492 But within 20 years designs inspired by the Bauhaus 773 01:56:05,663 --> 01:56:07,756 would define the modern world. 774 01:56:09,934 --> 01:56:10,958 lt's a strange thing, 775 01:56:11,136 --> 01:56:13,502 although Hitler closed down the Bauhaus, 776 01:56:13,671 --> 01:56:16,868 he was instrumental in the creation of an object 777 01:56:17,041 --> 01:56:20,568 that follows the true principles of the Bauhaus. 778 01:56:20,912 --> 01:56:24,211 ln fact, l think it's fair to say the Volkswagen beetle, 779 01:56:24,382 --> 01:56:28,751 because of its social purpose, utilisation of mass production techniques, 780 01:56:28,920 --> 01:56:32,617 is the greatest object the Bauhaus never made. 62551

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