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GUILLAUME BRAHIMI: Paris is
a city of aspiration.
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Every corner you turn
is a picture-perfect view.
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00:00:19,960 --> 00:00:24,520
With so much beauty, it's not
surprising Paris is full of art,
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00:00:24,520 --> 00:00:26,640
artists and artisan.
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00:00:26,640 --> 00:00:29,200
And I can't wait to
meet some of the best.
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00:00:29,200 --> 00:00:33,640
60 metres under the streets
of Paris, what's going on?
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This is amazing.
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I am Guillaume Brahimi.
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00:00:36,800 --> 00:00:38,800
I was born and raised in Paris
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00:00:38,800 --> 00:00:42,160
and I learnt to be a chef
in some of the greatest kitchens
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00:00:42,160 --> 00:00:43,880
in this city of light.
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00:00:43,880 --> 00:00:47,480
Now, after 30 years,
I've returned to explore
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00:00:47,480 --> 00:00:51,560
each of the 20 arrondissements
of Paris one by one,
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00:00:51,560 --> 00:00:53,480
to discover the best cuisine
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00:00:53,480 --> 00:00:56,800
and to show you how much
food drives this city.
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00:00:57,840 --> 00:01:00,720
Today I will serve
a crispy pork dish
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00:01:00,720 --> 00:01:03,880
with mushrooms from
deep underneath the city,
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00:01:03,880 --> 00:01:08,080
and the art of Paris inspires
a light and fluffy souffle.
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00:01:22,280 --> 00:01:26,040
The 17th Arrondissement
is a tale of two cities.
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00:01:26,040 --> 00:01:30,200
It's a mix of village life
and grand boulevards.
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00:01:30,200 --> 00:01:33,480
In the north, it is
very working-class,
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00:01:33,480 --> 00:01:37,720
in the south you will find yourself
at the Arc de Triomphe
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and the expensive boutiques
on the Champs-Elysees.
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00:01:41,160 --> 00:01:45,080
The middle of the arrondissement
has a foot in both worlds.
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00:01:45,080 --> 00:01:49,280
This is the Batignolles district
and it's an exciting neighbourhood.
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The streets here are small
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00:01:51,240 --> 00:01:55,000
but they are packed with
speciality wine bars and bistros,
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serving top quality produce.
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The place I want to visit is not far
from Boulevard de Batignolles,
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00:02:01,720 --> 00:02:03,200
on Rue Des Dames.
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It's a small bar, where the owners
are focused on perfecting
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00:02:07,560 --> 00:02:11,200
just two things - crepes and cider.
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00:02:11,200 --> 00:02:14,320
And I've heard they do both
better than anyone.
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00:02:14,320 --> 00:02:17,640
My mum is from Brittany,
the home of cider,
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so I reckon I'm a pretty good judge.
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- Chestnut? Chestnut, wow.
- Chestnut.
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The cider is delicious,
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but by the fifth glass I'm starting
to wonder about my balance
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00:03:24,760 --> 00:03:27,600
if he shows me all 25 varieties.
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00:03:27,600 --> 00:03:30,200
Then the cocktails start.
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Cider mixed with ginger,
lime and gin
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certainly hits the spot.
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00:03:35,200 --> 00:03:37,440
I think it's very dangerous,
this cocktail.
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But I'm pleased when I hear
the hot pan sizzling
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and the aroma of cheese
wafting from the kitchen.
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And I'm excited to discover Brutus
are doing crepes with a difference.
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00:04:38,240 --> 00:04:40,600
All this delicious apple cider
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has me inspired to cook pork
for dinner tonight.
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00:04:44,640 --> 00:04:49,880
But before I do, I will be travelling
underground for some ingredients.
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00:04:51,360 --> 00:04:54,360
Paris is known as the city of light.
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The reason, it's all thanks to
the brilliant white limestone
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of the Paris apartments that
reflect the light so beautifully.
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00:05:02,240 --> 00:05:05,600
But the city of light
also has a dark side.
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The limestone was excavated
from underneath the streets,
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leaving a maze of tunnels.
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00:05:12,040 --> 00:05:16,640
Back in the 1800s there was
a huge industry of farmers
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growing mushrooms in those caves.
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Now there are once again
restaurants in the 17th
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getting their fungi
from under the city.
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On Rue Raymond Queneau you can find
the entrance to a mushroom cave,
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if you know what you're looking for.
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A tiny sign that reads
"La Caverne" is my only clue.
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As I walk into this car park,
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it feels like something
is about to go down.
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As it turns out, it's me.
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All the way down to
the bottom floor
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where my guide Jean-Noel
has created
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a living, breathing food farm.
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See you, guys.
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Wow!
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60 metres under the street
of Paris, look at that.
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00:06:06,520 --> 00:06:08,840
What's going on? This is amazing.
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Unbelievable.
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00:06:39,280 --> 00:06:41,280
How much mushroom do you do here?
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- 30 tonnes per year.
- 30?
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That's a lot of mushroom.
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JEAN-NOEL: Shiitake
and oyster mushroom.
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And we grow nearby,
one kilometres away,
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and then there's an underground car
park, 50 tonnes of white mushroom.
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Wow.
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00:07:00,920 --> 00:07:02,720
And what you can see, white stuff...
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00:07:02,720 --> 00:07:04,880
Yes.
..it's mycelium.
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00:07:04,880 --> 00:07:06,400
- Mycelium
- Yeah, Mycelium.
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- It's the body of the mushroom.
- Yeah.
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So, this mushroom, it will
double its size every 24 hours.
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Every 24 hours?
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00:07:14,720 --> 00:07:16,360
Yeah, it will grow very fast.
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That's why in the forest,
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some days there are none of them
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and the day after you can see
mushroom everywhere.
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That's because in a forest,
their natural environment,
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they will grow very, very, very fast.
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To avoid being eaten by predators.
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We saw the endive, we saw
the mushroom, who's getting them?
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Who's getting them?
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Ah, mainly restaurants,
collective restaurants,
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and organic shops.
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- GUILLAUME: And all in Paris?
- JEAN-NOEL: All in Paris.
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So new generation, you know?
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I see them every day, and
they eat less meats of course
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and they are more and more vegan,
vegetarian,
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so they need new mushroom.
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And we're lucky to have this
abundance of great mushroom in Paris.
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I've scored a bag of
the best Paris mushrooms.
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00:08:07,720 --> 00:08:09,720
It's time to get back to my kitchen
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for a delicious pork recipe
made with a creamy mushroom sauce.
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I just love champignons Paris,
I grew up with champignons Paris.
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We had them raw in the salad,
my mum loved them raw in the salad,
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but my grandmother used to love them
a la creme.
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So today we are going to do
champignons de Paris
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with a few of their brothers.
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So, I got some pleut,
a very gentle, refined mushroom.
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I've got some champagne mushroom.
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Why is it called champagne?
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Well, think about it.
(MAKES POPPING NOISE)
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I think that's why it's
called champagne mushroom.
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And the shiitake mushroom,
a very strong-flavour mushroom.
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So I think we've got a very well
balanced variety of mushroom there
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who will go perfectly
with a beautiful pork cutlet.
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00:09:08,280 --> 00:09:10,720
But I've got one more thing
with it.
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Some cider.
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Yes, I want to use some
cider with my mushroom.
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What I need to do now,
I need to prep my mushroom.
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Very simple, I'm just
peeling my pleut that way.
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I'm cutting my
champignons de Paris,
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my shiitake just roughly.
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My champagne mushroom,
I'm just going to take the feet off
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and just do some nice...
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Look at that,
what a beautiful mushroom.
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I think I've got enough.
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One pork cutlet, a good
handful of my mushroom.
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I've got a touch of butter
in my pan, I've got my pork cutlet,
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now I'm going to cook it.
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Such a beautiful pork cutlet.
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I wouldn't cook it more
than probably eight minutes.
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Four minutes each side should
give you the perfect pork cutlet.
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Always some bay leaves and thyme
in the kitchen,
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and I'm just going to put
a little bit of garlic.
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Look at that.
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So my pork is singing.
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I'm going to cook my mushroom.
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Just like that.
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Little bit of salt.
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Little bit of pepper.
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Here we go.
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Little bit of garlic.
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I put my garlic
nearly at the end of it
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because I don't want
my garlic to burn.
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Let me tell you, that smell,
you know where you are
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when you can smell the garlic like
that, you're somewhere in Paris.
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And now it's time to deglaze
my mushroom with some cider.
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Yes, apple cider.
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Look at that. Just a little bit,
not too much.
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You know what I love about it,
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is obviously some of the best cider
in France
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come from Brittany and Normandy.
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And guess what else come from
Normandy?
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Cream.
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And we're going to put the cream
into my mushroom
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and my cider reduction.
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Little bit of chive
into my mushroom.
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My pork cutlet is ready,
my cream's going to reduce,
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and I've got this beautiful pork jus
I made with pork neck.
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It's just perfect for what
I'm going to show you.
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So I use a variety of mushroom,
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but if you only have
les champignons de Paris,
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I'm sure it will work as well.
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I'm going to put my pork cutlet.
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00:11:44,080 --> 00:11:48,080
And, to finish it off,
just a touch of pork jus,
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just on top of my cutlet,
just like that.
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Little bit more chive into it.
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And voila, for me it's a tombe
of mushroom with a pork cutlet,
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and a shine like the city of Paris.
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Bon Appetit mes ami.
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From the work of artisans
in the 17th,
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the next arrondissement
is all about great works of art.
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00:12:18,040 --> 00:12:21,160
There's something special
about the 18th Arrondissement.
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It's a district artists
have always been attracted to
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and art is still a feature
of the streets here.
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00:12:28,600 --> 00:12:31,200
Situated at the very top of Paris,
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the 18th is built around
the charming Montmartre hill.
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The views up here are spectacular.
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And I'm sure for the artists
of Montmartre, like Picasso or Dali,
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their inspiration
floated on the breeze.
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In the early 1900s,
there were 30 moulin,
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or giant windmills,
across Montmartre,
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capturing the wind for
irrigation and power.
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The most famous these days
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is of course the dazzling
Moulin Rouge.
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00:13:02,640 --> 00:13:07,600
However, there is another windmill
further up the hill, on Rue Lepic,
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called Moulin de la Galette,
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which is also famous
for something else.
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Once upon a time this moulin
was an old bread mill,
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but these days
it's a cosy restaurant
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serving classic French dishes,
run by restaurateur Gregory Millot.
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00:13:25,360 --> 00:13:28,000
However, Moulin de la Galette
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is best known for the great
artwork it inspired.
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00:13:32,480 --> 00:13:34,840
Like, it's not often
you see a mill in Paris.
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00:13:34,840 --> 00:13:36,400
Tell me about it.
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00:13:36,400 --> 00:13:37,960
- A mill, yes.
- Yeah, yeah.
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We've got two left.
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This one, the rudder,
which is the eldest one,
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and right at the back there
behind the leaves
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you've got the second one,
called the brutfan.
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00:13:47,160 --> 00:13:51,640
Ah, Monsieur Dubreuil,
that owned both of the mills,
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00:13:51,640 --> 00:13:54,480
had a son who loved dancing.
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00:13:54,480 --> 00:13:56,640
- Party boy.
- Party boy, exactly.
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00:13:56,640 --> 00:14:00,080
But very quickly it actually became
something else.
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00:14:00,080 --> 00:14:02,760
It became a ball,
a very popular ball
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that happened every single
weekend and bank holiday -
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00:14:05,760 --> 00:14:07,720
Saturday, Sunday, bank holiday.
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00:14:07,720 --> 00:14:10,760
The Bal du moulin de la Galette
that you got there,
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00:14:10,760 --> 00:14:13,720
by Renoir, one of
the biggest impressionists.
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00:14:13,720 --> 00:14:18,400
The 18th was in the middle
of the famous tax-free zone of Paris
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00:14:18,400 --> 00:14:22,040
when drinks and whatever
you want to buy was very cheap.
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00:14:22,040 --> 00:14:24,560
GREGORY: Exactly, that's why
you can see on the painting,
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00:14:24,560 --> 00:14:27,920
everything happens in Montmartre
stays in Montmartre.
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00:14:27,920 --> 00:14:32,320
And, you know, we look at the Renoir,
but who else was coming here?
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00:14:32,320 --> 00:14:34,200
Because if Renoir was coming here,
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00:14:34,200 --> 00:14:39,760
and he was the centre of artists,
creators, you know, who else?
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They were all here.
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00:14:41,680 --> 00:14:45,920
Picasso, Toulouse-Lautrec,
Modigliani, Van Gogh,
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00:14:45,920 --> 00:14:50,480
they all had either a small studio
apartment or a small gallery
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00:14:50,480 --> 00:14:54,000
where they used to paint in one
of the small streets around us.
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GUILLAUME: My goodness.
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00:14:55,240 --> 00:15:01,360
Cheers, Gregory. Thank you so much
for letting us into your oasis.
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00:15:01,360 --> 00:15:03,480
- Sante mon ami.
- Thank you. Merci.
228
00:15:03,480 --> 00:15:04,480
Merci beaucoup.
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00:15:06,800 --> 00:15:10,520
Renoir isn't the only artist to
capture the beauty of this location.
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00:15:10,520 --> 00:15:14,840
The Moulin de la Galette by Vincent
Van Gogh is a window to the time
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00:15:14,840 --> 00:15:19,560
this hill was covered in grass
instead of cobblestones.
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00:15:19,560 --> 00:15:23,160
I've heard there is a secret garden
still remaining in the 18th,
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00:15:23,160 --> 00:15:28,000
and it's there I'm hoping to find
inspiration for my dish today.
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00:15:34,120 --> 00:15:38,560
Montmartre, in the 18th,
has always been about food.
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00:15:38,560 --> 00:15:43,680
Once upon a time, the highest hill
in Paris was farmland,
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00:15:43,680 --> 00:15:47,880
and today Montmartre village
is still feeding Parisians
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00:15:47,880 --> 00:15:52,640
at venues that blend fine dining
and a taste of history.
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00:15:52,640 --> 00:15:56,280
La Maison Rose restaurant
and the Lapin Agile Cabaret
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00:15:56,280 --> 00:15:59,720
were two favourite haunts
for struggling artists
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00:15:59,720 --> 00:16:03,520
like Pablo Picasso
and Maurice Utrillo.
241
00:16:03,520 --> 00:16:07,680
For these painters,
inspiration came in many forms,
242
00:16:07,680 --> 00:16:09,720
even the liquid variety.
243
00:16:09,720 --> 00:16:13,520
Between these two famous venues
on Rue Des Saules
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00:16:13,520 --> 00:16:16,680
is a secret garden
with a long history.
245
00:16:16,680 --> 00:16:20,680
In the 19th century, Montmartre
was covered in grapevines
246
00:16:20,680 --> 00:16:22,880
as far as the eye could see.
247
00:16:22,880 --> 00:16:26,800
Now Vigne du Clos Montmartre
is the last remaining vineyard
248
00:16:26,800 --> 00:16:28,240
in the 18th.
249
00:16:28,240 --> 00:16:32,480
I'm lucky to be given a private tour
by Jean-Manuel Gabert,
250
00:16:32,480 --> 00:16:37,480
who is part of the society looking
after these beautiful grounds.
251
00:19:46,640 --> 00:19:50,640
I could drink wine all afternoon
in this beautiful garden,
252
00:19:50,640 --> 00:19:54,400
but when inspiration strikes
you have to run with it.
253
00:19:55,920 --> 00:19:58,520
I'm going to show you
how to make a souffle,
254
00:19:58,520 --> 00:20:01,880
and this one's going to be
a passionfruit souffle.
255
00:20:01,880 --> 00:20:04,280
I've got beautiful copper pots,
256
00:20:04,280 --> 00:20:10,880
but it's very important to coat your
copper pot with sugar and butter.
257
00:20:10,880 --> 00:20:13,440
Why am I using copper pots?
258
00:20:13,440 --> 00:20:15,960
Firstly, they look beautiful,
259
00:20:15,960 --> 00:20:20,800
but more importantly the copper
is a great conduiter of heat.
260
00:20:20,800 --> 00:20:24,440
So I've got my two copper pots
ready, perfectly,
261
00:20:24,440 --> 00:20:27,320
and trust me, it's worth it
to do it perfectly,
262
00:20:27,320 --> 00:20:31,240
because that will make your souffle
raise nice and straight, OK?
263
00:20:31,240 --> 00:20:33,680
Now I'm going to whisk my eggwhite.
264
00:20:35,480 --> 00:20:39,480
Just nicely and gently
to start with.
265
00:20:39,480 --> 00:20:42,320
Let's not be too aggressive
with my egg.
266
00:20:42,320 --> 00:20:45,800
It's all about bringing air
into the eggs,
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00:20:45,800 --> 00:20:49,240
the souffle of the air
will raise my eggwhite.
268
00:20:53,200 --> 00:20:55,680
And now I'm going to pour my sugar.
269
00:20:57,200 --> 00:20:58,480
Voila.
270
00:20:59,560 --> 00:21:01,600
And you just have to be patient.
271
00:21:01,600 --> 00:21:03,640
Let the magic happen.
272
00:21:07,200 --> 00:21:09,640
And here we go.
273
00:21:09,640 --> 00:21:11,960
I am very happy with them.
274
00:21:14,560 --> 00:21:15,880
My eggs are beautiful.
275
00:21:15,880 --> 00:21:19,840
Look at that, they're just shiny,
glowing and full of air.
276
00:21:19,840 --> 00:21:24,040
And I'm going to whisk it
with my passionfruit jam.
277
00:21:24,040 --> 00:21:28,880
Passionfruit with sugar,
you end up with very simple jam.
278
00:21:28,880 --> 00:21:33,200
I just want my passionfruit jam
to be lighter.
279
00:21:33,200 --> 00:21:36,760
Here we go, no more whisk.
280
00:21:36,760 --> 00:21:40,280
Now it's all about
putting my eggwhite.
281
00:21:40,280 --> 00:21:41,960
Isn't that beautiful?
282
00:21:43,280 --> 00:21:47,520
I want my passionfruit jam
to mix into my eggwhite,
283
00:21:47,520 --> 00:21:51,320
without taking the air
out of my eggwhite.
284
00:21:51,320 --> 00:21:54,840
As you can see, my eggwhite
are nice and yellow now
285
00:21:54,840 --> 00:21:57,000
because of my passionfruit colour.
286
00:21:57,000 --> 00:21:58,800
I am very happy with that.
287
00:22:00,080 --> 00:22:02,920
And now I'm going to
fill my copper pot.
288
00:22:10,200 --> 00:22:11,760
Why am I tapping?
289
00:22:11,760 --> 00:22:17,360
Because I don't want any bubble
of air between my mix and my copper.
290
00:22:18,680 --> 00:22:20,120
Look at that.
291
00:22:21,880 --> 00:22:24,280
Not bad, huh?
292
00:22:24,280 --> 00:22:29,000
And now I'm going to use this
little finger to do a circle.
293
00:22:29,000 --> 00:22:32,280
By taking one millimetre
away from the ring,
294
00:22:32,280 --> 00:22:35,160
your souffle will not stick
when it starts raising.
295
00:22:35,160 --> 00:22:38,000
And it's ready.
I'm going to put them in the oven.
296
00:22:38,000 --> 00:22:43,320
12 minutes at 200 degrees
should give us a good souffle.
297
00:22:43,320 --> 00:22:44,360
And that's it.
298
00:22:44,360 --> 00:22:46,240
Just make sure you don't
open the oven
299
00:22:46,240 --> 00:22:49,080
between now and 12 minutes.
300
00:22:56,880 --> 00:23:00,200
What do you reckon?
That's how I call a souffle.
301
00:23:02,560 --> 00:23:05,520
Is that the perfect souffle?
I believe so.
302
00:23:05,520 --> 00:23:09,040
And I can't wait to put my little
kernel of passionfruit sorbet
303
00:23:09,040 --> 00:23:10,680
inside my souffle.
304
00:23:12,400 --> 00:23:13,920
I'm a little bit speechless.
305
00:23:13,920 --> 00:23:16,840
Actually, the souffle is
taking my souffle away
306
00:23:16,840 --> 00:23:18,680
because it is perfect.
307
00:23:18,680 --> 00:23:22,320
My sorbet is melting
into my passionfruit souffle.
308
00:23:22,320 --> 00:23:24,640
Let's go. Bon Appetit, everyone.
309
00:23:29,240 --> 00:23:31,640
Next time in Guillaume's Paris,
310
00:23:31,640 --> 00:23:36,120
I finish my journey in the
arrondissement of my childhood.
311
00:23:36,120 --> 00:23:39,520
It's an exploration of
the bohemian hub of the city,
312
00:23:39,520 --> 00:23:41,760
with great drinks, great food
313
00:23:41,760 --> 00:23:45,000
and the fascinating neighbourhood
of Edith Piaf.
314
00:23:49,200 --> 00:23:52,000
Captions by Red Bee Media
(c) SBS Australia 2022
25695
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