All language subtitles for Cristobal.Balenciaga.S01E04.720p.WEB.h264-EDITH

“When you saw his dresses,
they seemed untouched.

They floated, they moved,
they created mystery”. Hubert de Givenchy

This series is inspired by the thirty
years Cristóbal Balenciaga spent in Paris,

from his beginnings
to becoming the king of haute couture.

In the previous episode

Mr. Dior.

Balenciaga finally has a rival.

There's only one thing Dior does better.

Communicating.

Cristóbal refuses every time
someone suggests an interview

Marketing and high fashion
don't match, our thing is exclusivity.

For the good of the company.

Sometimes I feel like you only care
about making money.

Since Mom died, my work is better.

I hadn't seen something
so interesting in a long time.

Lots of people
won't understand your designs.

But in two seasons,
everyone will be copying you.

The suppliers are very powerful.

They come,
show what they want, it's not fair.

There's a new boy
from your land in my workshop.

His name is Ramón.

Wladzio is in the hospital.

He had a stroke.

Catherinettes's party
Paris 1949

May I see your jacket, please?

Your jacket.

May I see it, please?

Achieving the perfect sleeve
is one of the hardest things.

It's a matter of balance
between fitting the sleeve properly

and letting the arm move freely.

This sleeve is crooked.

What are you doing?

Relax, I'm fixing them.

What a mess.

But the design isn't yours.

Is he always like this?

He undoes and remakes dresses
in the middle of dinners.

So is our Cristóbal.

You better make it look good.

See? The fold behind the sleeve...

gives it volume
and makes it fall straight.

Small steps and, mostly, quick.

Follow the dress.

Again.

And done.

Do exactly like this.

Keep the iron close by.

Mold the collar constantly.

Make sure everyone does exactly this.

The main thread
and overstitches in a right angle,

or the fabric loses the shape.

Mr. Balenciaga is very strict about this.

Mr. Balenciaga
is very careful fitting the sleeves.

Mr. Balenciaga
wants every thread to be 2 mm long.

Mr. Balenciaga
doesn't allow anything else.

Mr. Balenciaga
is very demanding about this.

-Ahh!
-Shh!

Mr. Balenciaga
wants us to work in silence.

I don't understand it.

I pay a fortune, and he is not coming?

Oh, I'm sorry, but Monsieur Balenciaga
never make an appearance.

There are no exceptions.

That might seem expensive but
you’re not solely purchasing two gowns.

What you're paying for is a license

to reproduce the two models
you like the most.

Thank you.

Paris 1953
orly airport

Maybe longer sleeves.

If I make them longer,
the dress loses balance.

You've prospered so much, Cristóbal.

Who would have thought? Huh?

Have you noticed that as people
leave your side, you move forward?

Wladzio, please.

Come on!
Don't pretend you haven't noticed.

When your mother died, you were
the one who said your work got better.

And now that I'm gone, it's even better.

What are you saying?
Whenever I make anything,

I wonder what you two would have thought.

Yes, but you don't know.

Test me.

Ask me what I think of your latest lines,

the semi-fitted dress...

Very well.

What do you think of my last collections?

1953 New York
department stores' headquarters

Mr. Balenciaga.

- What a pleasure.
-The pleasure's mine.

Let me introduce you.

Benjamin Grindley,
senior director.

It's an honor that you've come
to visit us.

The king of Parisian
haute couture in our offices!

-What else can I ask for?

-So, I'm gonna... Let's just set up...
-Let's go to the conference room.

...little fashion show for you
which you're gonna love.

You're gonna love...

-May I?

Margaret, please.

It's not bad...
but it's not very good either.

Um...

H-how can we improve?

If I had been given this fabric...

I would have made a different dress.

Um...

If Maison Balenciaga
makes you buy the dress,

it's so you know
what fabric to use on the copy.

True.

-Well, we gotta be competitive.

And the European fabrics

are very expensive because of
the high import taxes they got to pay.

Balenciaga was never cheap.

Look...

the problem is counterfeits.

The market for counterfeits
is spreading like wildfire.

Counterfeits sell for
very competitive prices. And we...

can't compete with them
if we hike prices up.

Precios.

Hello.

Hello.

You're Cristóbal Balenciaga, right?

Yes.

The last person
I was expecting to bump into.

What are you doing all alone in a corner?

My translator drank too much champagne.

She left me behind,
and I can't understand anything.

I'm Hubert de Givenchy.
I also work in fashion.

Yes, Givenchy.

I don't read much about fashion,
but I know your work.

Sit down, please.

Between us, everyone talks about Dior,
but you're the true master.

And what are you doing here?

I'm thinking of launching
a line of prêt-à-porter.

I've come to see a factory,
check what machines they use.

Mass production.

-You're leaving high fashion?
-I was thinking of combining the two.

Instead of being copied, I'll copy myself.

The counterfeits.

I actually sat down here

because I can't stand seeing

a woman with a copy of my design,
horribly made.

Where?

The woman with the polka-dot dress.

Where did she get it?

She says she bought it
in Greenwich Village.

It's a shame I'm leaving tomorrow.

I was 17, and I told the manager
at Maison Balenciaga

that I was a big fan
and wanted to join your ranks.

Now I'm glad she kicked me out.

I would have hated my job.

I'm sorry.

-I hope we weren't too harsh.
-No.

The director was a little harsh,

but then a very kind man welcomed me.

I believe his name was Russian.

-Wladzio.
-That's it.

Excuse me,
but we're going to close.

Oh, yes, we're leaving.

They're kicking us out.

It was a pleasure to meet you, Cristóbal.

Hello?

I told you to call when you got here.
I would have picked you up.

There's no need. I called a taxi.

So, how did it go?

It went well.

You seem happy, huh?

Hubert de Givenchy.
Shall I bring him here?

No, I'm coming.

But... you'll leave it like this?

You finish it.

Take a break.

No. No, no, no, no.

Hubert.

What a surprise!

-Sorry for showing up like this.
-Not at all.

It's no bother.

-I brought you something.
-Did you?

Come to my office.

-Your maison is amazing.
-Thank you.

I took a walk around Greenwich Village
and saw it in a window.

It doesn't say on the label,
but there was a sign next to it.

It said, "A Balenciaga design."

Unbelievable.

And from the latest collection.

Turn around, please.

Look,
the back is totally different.

Because the sketch only shows the front.

Seventh Avenue was
full of counterfeit Dior stores

of terrible quality.

- You may leave, thank you.
-Thank you.

Publishing sketches
fuels these fraudulent copies.

We have to stop the fashion magazines.

Right, but what do you want us to do?

Forbid them from showing more
than two or three designs per season.

I don't know, Cristóbal.
I understand your worries,

but don't forget that we survive
through the press.

It's an important decision
that we can't make so suddenly.

There it is.

So, what do we do?

Because we have different opinions.

Ask your friends in the press, then.

But do it diplomatically.

Very well.

Very well.

Thank you.

You're late, Cristóbal.

I forgive you.

Hello.

-We got you champagne.
-I wanted to see you.

What's this about limiting
the designs we can show?

-You encourage piracy, and you know it.
-Cristóbal.

Many of your clients are from the U.S.,
and they can't see the shows.

We have to show them
so they keep buying your dresses!

They'll stop buying my dresses
if they see anyone can have one.

Why come to Paris

if the store next door will have a copy
when they come home?

-All because of the pictures on--
-Cristóbal, enough.

Making copies is nothing new.

You yourself copied
Vionnet in San Sebastián.

Copy is glory. You're everywhere...

-Coco...
-Enough!

Coco wants you
to stop talking about yourselves.

I'd like to talk about me.

How strange.

I wanted to tell you that
I've decided to return to fashion.

Great! I knew you'd come back some day.

Congratulations, Coco.

I'm so glad.

Thank you, my friends.

It's important to know
that you support me.

-It won't be easy.
-Count on my help.

For whatever you need.

Thank you, Cristóbal,
you're a good friend.

Did you know that Cristóbal gave me

one of the best gifts
anyone has ever given me?

Really?

A portrait of me by Cassandre.

I'll never forget, Cristóbal.

I looked like a monkey playing dress-up.

-You're terrible.
-But beautiful.

I love it, it's in my suite.
I'll show you later.

There's no honey in mine.

Give it to me.

They're identical.

I'm thinking of selling some of my shares.

-Why?
-So we have more voices in our business.

It would be symbolic.
We'd still have most of the shares.

Why do you want more voices?

Aren't you and Cristóbal enough?

I hadn't noticed, but I miss Wladzio.

Somehow, he always broke the tie.

Dealing with Cristóbal alone isn't easy.

Have you asked Cristóbal how he's doing?

Friends ask questions like that.

Wladzio's death
still haunts him, I'm sure.

Virgilia, it's embarrassing.

Put embarrassment aside and ask.

Easy to say.

Look at me.

Nicolás, what will you do?

Ask him.

Hello.

Mr. Balenciaga, good morning.

It's an honor to welcome you here,
in Maison Givenchy.

Excuse the receptionist
for not recognizing you.

Come, please.

Mr. Givenchy isn't here?

Sorry, he won't be returning today.
Can I help you?

No, I was in the area
and came in to greet him.

Hubert told me
about your meeting in New York.

I'd never seen him so excited.

That's great.

And who are you?

My name is Philippe Venet.

I'm his personal assistant.

Uh-huh.

Would you like to leave a message?

No, I just wanted to say hello.

Don't worry, I'll see him later
and tell him you came by.

-Thank you, bye.
-Goodbye.

Move forward, please.

The back has to fit more tightly.

Understand, Salvador?

Fernando, please,
make this clear on the sketch.

Let's go with the next one.

Suzanne, Colette.

Edith Head called. She's in Paris.

With Hepburn. She wants to see you.

-Katherine Hepburn?
-No, the new one.

But David is engaged.

So, Linus, his older brother,

tries to seduce her to pull her
away from his brother David

and save his engagement to Elizabeth.

Another romantic comedy.

But she tries to kill herself.
That's comedy?

Sabrina must return to Paris
representing its glamour.

It would be too cliché
to dress her in Dior.

-We think you'd be perfect.

I'm flattered, really.

And you know I love cinema, Edith.

But I don't think it's possible.

We're busy with the new collection.

You'd only have to show us
the dresses we can choose from...

No, I know myself, I won't be able
to distance myself from it.

Is there any way to convince you?

Hmm?

I can recommend a designer I think

will fit you perfectly.

The style you're looking for.

- Yes?

We are having dinner at the Ramponneau.

-Very well.
-Want to join us?

We haven't gone out together in a while.

I don't think I can,
but thank you, Nicolás.

How are you, Cristóbal?

Me?

I'm good.

What kind of question is that?

Sorry, maybe I was too nosy.

No, no, I'm sorry. I'm doing fine.

Then...

I'll leave you to it.

- Goodbye.
-Goodbye.

They've always been kind to me.

It's not that. I'm just bored with them.

We don't talk about much,

and it always ends up
being a work meeting.

But talking about work
is what you love the most.

No, I like talking about fashion.

But Nicolás only talks about business,
and it bores me.

Good evening.

Is that Givenchy?

- Cristóbal, what a surprise.
-Hubert! It is.

We've come to celebrate.

I'm doing costumes for Audrey Hepburn
in Billy Wilder's latest film.

-Thanks for sending her to me.
-You're welcome.

She's great, isn't she?

So nice.

We get along so well,

but I thought she was Katherine Hepburn.

I had the same problem, right?

-This is my friend, Philippe Venet.
-Yes.

We met when Mr. Balenciaga
came to the shop.

And this is Ramón, a friend as well.

-Nice to meet you.
-A pleasure.

I'm serious.

I could visit your Madrid
or Barcelona shops undercover

and learn all your techniques.

Do you hear yourself?

You're high fashion, Hubert.
You'll be dressing Audrey Hepburn.

-Why keep training?
-Why not?

No, it's too late for that.

You need to surround yourself
with good people.

I can send some seamstresses
to train yours.

And then, trust your good taste.

Which you do have.

And pray.

-Pray?
-Of course.

Every afternoon,
I stop and go to a service

in the Saint Pierre de Chaillot church.

You should come with me some day.

It wouldn't hurt.

I'm Protestant, Cristóbal.

They're handsome, right?

Handsome?

What kind of comment is that?

A comment from someone
who appreciates beauty.

Do you think Givenchy and Venet...

you know...

I don't know, and I don't care.

I don't like it when you talk like that.

-What did I say?
-Don't go there!

Let's get a taxi, please.

Number 39.

Number 39.

My last show.

You know I'll miss you.

Of course.

Number 40.

: Number 40.

Ramón.

What's wrong?

In the back, the man with glasses.

With a white pinstripe suit.

He's writing something down
on his sleeve. See?

Yes, I see it.

Stop him as he leaves

and force him to show you his shirt.

Understood?

Excuse me, excuse me!

-Hi.
-Hello.

-Did you like the show?
-Yes, very much.

-Exquisite. Beautiful.
-Thank you.

Would you mind coming with me
for a moment, please?

-I don't understand.
-It'll just be a moment.

Just a second.

-Okay, sure. Through here? This way?
-Yes, thank you.

Really beautiful collection.

Could you please take your jacket off?

-You want me to take my jacket off?
-Your jacket off, please.

Um, like I said, I'm in a hurry.
I really must be, uh, going.

What medium are you from?

From the same medium as-as always.

-I've been coming here for years.
-Can I see your shirt?

Listen, man, I don't know
what your problem is...!

-Can I see your shirt?

No, I will not show you the shirt!
Get your hands off of me!

Show me the shirt!

Show me the shirt!

What are we now? Common thugs?

We act posh and rip shirts!

It was just the sleeve. I'm sorry.

What did you want me to do?

We can't keep doing this.

Sketches of my designs in the papers,

magazines, and now on sleeves?

That's what happens when you
limit what they can publish.

You're playing with fire
when it comes to the press, Cristóbal.

Can't you see that if these copies spread,
we could be ruined?

What alternative do we have?
Declare war on them?

That won't ruin us?

We're seeing this as a problem
only for Maison Balenciaga,

when it affects the entire industry.

Dior, Balmain-- it's the same for us all.

We need to talk to the syndicate

so we can delay
the showcases for the press.

And what will that achieve?

We could send the dresses
to our clients and department stores

before the magazines see them.

They'll have to understand.

Very well.

Very well.

We might as well try.

Thank you, Nicolás.

"Cristóbal Balenciaga
remains closed off and invisible,

but that doesn't stop him
from being named, no...

crowned as the Emperor."

"All with..." Thank you.

"All with Dior's permission.

He has better sales, but everyone
follows in Balenciaga's steps.

What Balenciaga designs today,
everyone will copy in two seasons."

Very good, right?

Um...

Nicolás suggested
adding more shareholders.

I thought you might want to...

Really?

Thank you.

You won't regret it.

According to
the transfers made inside the company,

the resources will be divided
in the following way...

Mr. Balenciaga, 500 shares.

Mr. Bizkarrondo, 1,493 shares.

Mr. De Bareño, two shares.

Mr. Tamisier, one share.

Mr. Esparza, one share.

Mr. Leyrat, two shares.

Mr. Hommey, one share.

In total, 2,000 shares.

-Ban the press?
-No, not ban.

-Just delay.
-Why don't you handle this in court?

That's what Dior and other designers did.

It won't work.

I understand, but what
you're suggesting isn't possible.

The press is essential,
it makes the gears work.

The spread of copies
is the price we must pay.

Well, we tried.

Maybe we should take it to court as well.

We've accepted
what Lucien said without a fight.

What can we do?

Cristóbal, please, let's follow the rules.

We need some peace.

Shall we get some coffee
and discuss the meeting?

I can't, I'm meeting someone,
and I'm late.

-You're going that way?
-No, this way.

See you at the workshop.

I'm not saying
they can never come back!

I just want to delay them a month,
is that too much to ask?

The press is powerful because we allow it.

-You understand, right?
-Of course.

Then why are you laughing?

Your temper amuses me.

There's a big empty shop
in front of the maison,

it would be perfect for your new maison.

I can lend you some money.

What do you think?

Why are you doing this?

What do you mean?

Why are you helping me so much?

Because I believe in you.

I'll never be able
to return all these favors.

I'm not expecting anything.

Cristóbal, finally.

We need to check Fernando's sketches.

Let's go.

Do you have a moment?

Yeah, sure.

I just saw you leave a shop with Givenchy.

Yes, and...?

I'm not sure what you're doing, Cristóbal.

Agnes and Concha told me that next week
they're off to work with Givenchy.

It'll only be a few days.

And you didn't think to tell me?

Sorry, I forgot. It didn't seem important.

It didn't seem important?

You're obsessed with counterfeits.

You harass me about this issue
because I'm not doing enough,

and then you fund and mentor

one of our main competitors,
apart from giving him Hollywood clients.

What's going on with you and Givenchy?

I don't know
what you're insinuating, Nicolás, uh...

He's talented.

I like his work.

I support people who do things right,
and I always have.

This has nothing to do with counterfeits.

I'm just asking you to not ignore me.

Can you close the door, please?

We're considering drastic measures.

We would delay press shows for a month.

But we'd do a special show
for U.S. clients.

You know you'd get kicked out
of the syndicate?

Yes, but we want to hear your opinion.

You have a massive influence
in our industry.

Do you think it will affect our business?

Honestly, I doubt it.

But they'll be pissed.

Especially journalists who will
have to return to Paris a month later.

But what can they do?

Balenciaga is probably the only maison,

next to Dior perhaps,

that can afford to do this.

Earthquake in haute couture

Cristóbal.

What is this?

I had to find out
through the press!

Huh?

Balenciaga
turns away from the press

Can you leave us alone?

Please.

I should sue you, Cristóbal!

I would understand if you did.

-But give me this chance.
-We're being heavily criticized!

How could you make
this decision without me?

They'll end us, Cristóbal!

I talked to Carmel Snow--

I don't care!
I don't care about Carmel Snow!

You don't respect me as a friend
or as the biggest shareholder.

I've always been grateful
for your help, Nicolás,

but I don't trust your judgement.

You're playing with my money!

Then I'll give it to you!

How much? How much do you want?

You can't tie me up!

I'm being held hostage!

I do everything!

And I do a good job!

From what I have read, I'm doing well.

Okay.

Let me do things my way!

You do everything.

Let me do things my way,

or I'm leaving.

I only see two options.

Let me do things my way or I leave.

I feel like a prisoner!

I didn't know you felt that way
because of me.

Now you know.

Huh? Now you know.

If this is the situation,
don't worry, I'll sell my shares.

I won't stay and watch all this sink.

It won't sink.

-It won't sink.
-Look, Cristóbal...

I'm too old for this.

I don't have children to take care of.

I want to live in peace.

I'm sorry it's ending like this.

Nicolás.

Nicolás.

Nicolás!

I couldn't handle it any other way.

I'm not proud of it.

It wasn't betrayal.

I was blinded by my obsession
with stopping the copies.

I didn't think about Nicolás' feelings,

but I did feel limited.

Besides, I was convinced
that my decision was the right one.

Mrs. Rothschild! Baroness!

Eugenia Sheppard, journalist.
Do you remember?

Good afternoon, Mrs. Sheppard.

What did you think of the new collection?

Well, I don't know
if I should tell you, but...

- Good morning.
-Good morning, sir.

What's going on?

Eugenia Sheppard wrote about the showcase.

And what did she say?

"I'm sorry to have to write

a secondhand article

about the new collection
from one of the best designers,

but Balenciaga forced me to do this."

"'Balenciaga at his peak.'

That's what said the clients
that had the privilege to attend

the two-hour-long showcase
that took place yesterday."

It went well, right?

Now they'll want to know what the dresses
they haven't seen look like.

We'll see if it lasts.

The letter of dismissal
from the syndicate. They are furious.

People are asking about Mr. Bizkarrondo.

What should I say?

Tell them to focus on their job.

We must start preparing
the showcase in New York.

I'll talk to Hubert.

Thank you.

Hello.

How are you, Virgilia?

Won't you look at me?

What do you want, Cristóbal?

To know how you're doing.

Now you want to know how we're doing?

You weren't so interested
when you kicked us out.

I did no such thing.

To tell you the truth,
I'm very angry at both of you.

At Nicolás, too.

You haven't thought about me.

This company is mine, too.

I helped build it as well.

And because of you two, I've lost it.

How could you not make up?
I don't understand.

You could still come back.
I'd be delighted. Uh...

But on your conditions, right?

Don't make me laugh.

Have you read the reviews?

Really, Cristóbal?

Listen to me.

Delaying the showcases
for the press didn't hurt us.

On the contrary, it helped.

What are you talking about?

Do you think that matters now?

- Mr... Excuse me.
-Don't worry, stay.

Hello, Mrs. Bizkarrondo,
I'm glad to see you.

-You wanted to see me?
-Yes, Renée.

Could you send this to my house?

I'll handle it, don't worry.

Thank you very much.

Well...

I'm leaving.

Take care, Renée.

You too, and say hello to Mr. Bizkarrondo.

Goodbye, Cristóbal.

Goodbye.

Did you ever see them again?

No, never.

I'm done. Ramón, please.

Yes.

How is it?

Well... what do you want me to say?

It's good.

But it was also good before.

If you don't mind,
I like it better like this.

Cristóbal,
it doesn't matter what you choose.

They're wonderful.

-You are in great shape.
-Enough, enough...

That's funny.

-What a coincidence.
-What?

Here.

The same fabric. What a coincidence.

What's wrong, Cristóbal?

I don't like it.

-What is it? The texture?
-No, no.

It's not that.

It irks me that you have so much control
over the designers' work.

I don't get it.

it's the fabric
we discussed the last time.

-It's what you asked for.
-I know.

But I wasn't involved
in the fabric's creation.

Who knows
how many designers you offer it to.

Gustav...

I want to make an offer.

I want to create a fabric,

you and I.

A fabric that's only for me.

That I can control.

What do you say?