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1
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What a beautiful view
of the Mediterranean.
2
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I'm going on a journey
of self discovery...
3
00:00:13,840 --> 00:00:15,295
What a place!
4
00:00:15,320 --> 00:00:18,015
...walking stretches
between the summits
5
00:00:18,040 --> 00:00:20,215
of the Spanish and French Pyrenees.
6
00:00:20,240 --> 00:00:22,095
My word...
7
00:00:22,120 --> 00:00:24,695
Approaching
three score years and ten,
8
00:00:24,720 --> 00:00:26,415
I have much to reflect on.
9
00:00:26,440 --> 00:00:29,215
What is the secret of being happy
in life, do you think, now?
10
00:00:29,240 --> 00:00:33,455
So I'm challenging myself on
an ambitious mountain adventure.
11
00:00:33,480 --> 00:00:35,335
GROANS DEEPLY
THEY LAUGH
12
00:00:40,040 --> 00:00:42,415
I'll start at the Atlantic Ocean,
13
00:00:42,440 --> 00:00:45,415
crossing borders
between Spain and France,
14
00:00:45,440 --> 00:00:48,215
and end at the Mediterranean Sea.
15
00:00:49,680 --> 00:00:51,815
Meeting the people who live here...
16
00:00:51,840 --> 00:00:53,215
Working on the land together,
17
00:00:53,240 --> 00:00:55,815
everybody's equal,
and that's when you really bond.
18
00:00:55,840 --> 00:00:57,375
It's like falling in love again.
19
00:00:57,400 --> 00:01:00,855
I began to get
this sense of total peace.
20
00:01:00,880 --> 00:01:03,295
I'll test myself physically...
21
00:01:04,400 --> 00:01:05,415
WIN D HOWLS
22
00:01:05,440 --> 00:01:06,695
HE GROANS
23
00:01:06,720 --> 00:01:08,415
This is no joke.
24
00:01:08,440 --> 00:01:10,615
...and have time
to contemplate the past...
25
00:01:11,720 --> 00:01:14,255
Somewhere through these hills
my father walked,
26
00:01:14,280 --> 00:01:16,895
to leave Spain
as a political refugee.
27
00:01:18,800 --> 00:01:22,375
...open to whatever
this personal quest may teach me.
28
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It has impressed upon me
29
00:01:25,440 --> 00:01:29,215
how free is the human spirit
to choose its own way,
30
00:01:29,240 --> 00:01:31,655
and that is inspiring.
31
00:01:46,320 --> 00:01:47,815
UP We go.
32
00:01:52,360 --> 00:01:55,375
The final stretch
of my Pyrenean challenge
33
00:01:55,400 --> 00:01:59,295
will include a strong element
of personal pilgrimage.
34
00:01:59,320 --> 00:02:01,895
I've crossed back into Spain,
35
00:02:01,920 --> 00:02:05,175
to the north-eastern region
of Catalonia.
36
00:02:05,200 --> 00:02:06,375
HE GROANS
37
00:02:18,000 --> 00:02:19,535
My first goal,
38
00:02:19,560 --> 00:02:23,215
the popular viewpoint
Mirador de la Tortuga.
39
00:02:26,200 --> 00:02:28,895
And round we go...
40
00:02:30,040 --> 00:02:31,335
Got it.
41
00:02:38,240 --> 00:02:40,735
I feel the summit,
42
00:02:40,760 --> 00:02:42,335
I sense it.
43
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DEEP BREATHS
44
00:02:45,080 --> 00:02:46,855
HEAVIER BREATHING
45
00:02:49,800 --> 00:02:51,415
Definitely tiring.
46
00:02:52,520 --> 00:02:54,735
I'm in better condition overall
47
00:02:54,760 --> 00:02:58,295
than I was at the start of my walks,
but, er...
48
00:02:58,320 --> 00:03:00,935
the hip is a bit painful today,
49
00:03:00,960 --> 00:03:03,855
so it kind of balances out,
50
00:03:03,880 --> 00:03:06,175
and now,
I'm going to be treated to...
51
00:03:06,200 --> 00:03:07,375
Oh, yeah.
52
00:03:11,160 --> 00:03:15,175
...a 360 degree view,
53
00:03:15,200 --> 00:03:17,775
of mountain, and village,
54
00:03:17,800 --> 00:03:20,655
and crag, and lake, and dam...
55
00:03:22,080 --> 00:03:23,815
...and more mountains.
56
00:03:24,880 --> 00:03:26,135
Yeah.
57
00:03:26,160 --> 00:03:27,735
SIGHS
58
00:03:27,760 --> 00:03:29,375
Worth all the panting.
59
00:03:32,840 --> 00:03:34,975
I started at the Atlantic,
60
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I've made it, almost,
61
00:03:36,640 --> 00:03:38,055
to the Med.
62
00:03:42,200 --> 00:03:44,495
As civil war raged in Spain,
63
00:03:44,520 --> 00:03:46,255
over 80 years ago,
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00:03:46,280 --> 00:03:48,855
these cruel mountains would feature
65
00:03:48,880 --> 00:03:51,215
in the back story to my life.
66
00:03:52,600 --> 00:03:54,415
Spain is something special to me,
67
00:03:54,440 --> 00:03:56,495
because I am half Spanish,
68
00:03:56,520 --> 00:03:59,495
and this is not a corner
that I know very well,
69
00:03:59,520 --> 00:04:02,175
but it is important
70
00:04:02,200 --> 00:04:04,175
in my family history,
71
00:04:04,200 --> 00:04:07,015
because somewhere
through these hills
72
00:04:07,040 --> 00:04:09,815
my father walked, to leave Spain,
73
00:04:09,840 --> 00:04:13,655
as a political refugee
in February of 1939.
74
00:04:13,680 --> 00:04:18,015
All his feelings
must have been of despair,
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00:04:18,040 --> 00:04:21,695
of despair, and everything
that he believed in politically,
76
00:04:21,720 --> 00:04:25,495
democracy, the Republic,
all of that had crumbled away,
77
00:04:25,520 --> 00:04:29,455
and Spain was now under
a dictatorship that he loathed,
78
00:04:29,480 --> 00:04:31,895
as he tramped,
79
00:04:31,920 --> 00:04:34,375
in February,
through the Pyrenees,
80
00:04:34,400 --> 00:04:36,775
to an entirely unknown destiny,
81
00:04:36,800 --> 00:04:39,535
and I have never come back
82
00:04:39,560 --> 00:04:41,495
to walk in his footsteps.
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00:04:43,400 --> 00:04:44,935
In my last three days,
84
00:04:44,960 --> 00:04:47,095
I'll cover around 40 miles
85
00:04:47,120 --> 00:04:49,575
starting in the Catalan Pyrenees,
86
00:04:49,600 --> 00:04:51,535
meeting people who, like me,
87
00:04:51,560 --> 00:04:53,375
have returned to the area
88
00:04:53,400 --> 00:04:54,935
due to a family connection.
89
00:04:56,080 --> 00:04:59,055
My route will take me
to the village of La Vajol,
90
00:04:59,080 --> 00:05:02,015
where thousands of refugees,
like my father,
91
00:05:02,040 --> 00:05:04,575
said their last goodbyes to Spain.
92
00:05:04,600 --> 00:05:06,255
I'll meet a vineyard owner
93
00:05:06,280 --> 00:05:09,255
who's embracing the rural life
of his forefathers,
94
00:05:09,280 --> 00:05:11,135
and walk with a local guide
95
00:05:11,160 --> 00:05:13,575
who was drawn back to her roots.
96
00:05:13,600 --> 00:05:15,095
I'll finish my journey
97
00:05:15,120 --> 00:05:17,415
where the mountains meet
the Mediterranean,
98
00:05:17,440 --> 00:05:18,975
at the Cap de Creus,
99
00:05:19,000 --> 00:05:21,815
the most easterly point
on the Spanish mainland.
100
00:05:24,960 --> 00:05:26,575
In 1931,
101
00:05:26,600 --> 00:05:30,215
Spain changed
from being a monarchy to a republic
102
00:05:30,240 --> 00:05:32,775
with an elected president,
and government.
103
00:05:33,840 --> 00:05:37,375
And in 1936,
the Spanish Civil War began,
104
00:05:37,400 --> 00:05:40,335
with a military rebellion
against the government.
105
00:05:43,760 --> 00:05:46,175
During the three years
of the Civil War,
106
00:05:46,200 --> 00:05:48,535
the government lost territory
to the rebels,
107
00:05:48,560 --> 00:05:51,095
and had to move its capital
repeatedly.
108
00:05:52,560 --> 00:05:53,935
Eventually,
109
00:05:53,960 --> 00:05:57,415
the President of the Republic
ended up in this house, Can Bar is,
110
00:05:57,440 --> 00:06:00,215
in a tiny village in the Pyrenees,
111
00:06:00,240 --> 00:06:02,615
and ruled from here
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00:06:02,640 --> 00:06:04,975
what was left of the Republic,
113
00:06:05,000 --> 00:06:06,495
in its last days.
114
00:06:07,800 --> 00:06:09,775
My father, Luis Portillo,
115
00:06:09,800 --> 00:06:11,415
a law professor,
116
00:06:11,440 --> 00:06:13,935
became Deputy Secretary of justice
117
00:06:13,960 --> 00:06:15,855
in the Republican government.
118
00:06:15,880 --> 00:06:18,695
Like many Spanish families,
his was torn apart
119
00:06:18,720 --> 00:06:22,135
as five of his brothers
fought on the other side.
120
00:06:22,160 --> 00:06:24,455
He was forced to leave his homeland,
121
00:06:24,480 --> 00:06:27,655
but was lucky enough to create
a new life in Britain
122
00:06:27,680 --> 00:06:30,215
after meeting Cora, my mother,
123
00:06:30,240 --> 00:06:32,055
seen here with my brothers
124
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and me, bare-chested.
125
00:06:36,960 --> 00:06:39,455
The Spanish Civil War
hung over my father's life
126
00:06:39,480 --> 00:06:41,135
like an enormous, dark shadow.
127
00:06:41,160 --> 00:06:44,215
He was constantly talking about
everything that had gone wrong...
128
00:06:45,800 --> 00:06:50,535
...but he would not dwell
on personal experience,
129
00:06:50,560 --> 00:06:53,215
and so I have only the vaguest idea
130
00:06:53,240 --> 00:06:55,135
of how he left Spain.
131
00:07:00,920 --> 00:07:04,935
Barcelona,
the capital of Republican Catalonia,
132
00:07:04,960 --> 00:07:10,135
fell to General Franco's
Nationalist forces in January 1939,
133
00:07:10,160 --> 00:07:14,055
and many sympathisers and soldiers
looking for an escape route
134
00:07:14,080 --> 00:07:16,815
headed to this mountain village
of La Vajol,
135
00:07:16,840 --> 00:07:19,455
to cross the border into France.
136
00:07:23,200 --> 00:07:26,855
It has quite a big place in
the history of the Spanish Republic,
137
00:07:26,880 --> 00:07:31,135
because so many people, in the
dying days of that government,
138
00:07:31,160 --> 00:07:34,575
passed through here
on their way to exile in France,
139
00:07:34,600 --> 00:07:36,175
and beyond.
140
00:07:36,200 --> 00:07:38,055
And here is a plaque in memory
141
00:07:38,080 --> 00:07:40,215
of all the Republicans of the war,
142
00:07:40,240 --> 00:07:42,415
1936 to 1939.
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00:07:42,440 --> 00:07:45,575
In the bottom right,
the flag of Catalonia,
144
00:07:45,600 --> 00:07:47,615
and in the bottom left,
145
00:07:47,640 --> 00:07:50,095
in red, yellow and purple,
146
00:07:50,120 --> 00:07:53,095
the flag of
the defunct Spanish Republic.
147
00:08:08,760 --> 00:08:10,415
Hello, Margaret. Hello, Michael.
148
00:08:10,440 --> 00:08:12,775
It's good to see you. How are you?
How are you? Good to see you.
149
00:08:13,840 --> 00:08:16,255
Margaret works
at a nearby Civil War museum,
150
00:08:16,280 --> 00:08:20,015
and, as for me, that war
is part of her family history,
151
00:08:20,040 --> 00:08:22,495
with relatives forced to flee Spain,
152
00:08:22,520 --> 00:08:24,095
some of them through here.
153
00:08:25,160 --> 00:08:28,135
Just above the village,
the route that the refugees took
154
00:08:28,160 --> 00:08:31,535
is known today as
Un Camino del Exilio,
155
00:08:31,560 --> 00:08:33,615
A Path into Exile.
156
00:08:33,640 --> 00:08:37,255
Margaret and I are tracing it
along this forest trail
157
00:08:37,280 --> 00:08:39,575
as it climbs towards
the French border.
158
00:08:41,280 --> 00:08:44,335
Can you imagine
hundreds of people walking up here?
159
00:08:45,600 --> 00:08:48,935
A miserable stream of humanity.
Yes.
160
00:08:48,960 --> 00:08:52,335
I... I mean, it was in the middle
of the winter and it was freezing.
161
00:08:52,360 --> 00:08:55,415
Everything was behind them. Yes.
162
00:08:55,440 --> 00:08:57,175
So, their possessions,
their families,
163
00:08:57,200 --> 00:08:59,415
their country, their jobs. Yeah.
Everything.
164
00:08:59,440 --> 00:09:01,015
And all their political illusions.
165
00:09:01,040 --> 00:09:02,935
Absolutely.
Because they'd just lost,
166
00:09:02,960 --> 00:09:04,735
and everything
that mattered to them... Yes.
167
00:09:04,760 --> 00:09:06,415
...had been destroyed,
168
00:09:06,440 --> 00:09:08,375
and how they put one foot in front
of the other,
169
00:09:08,400 --> 00:09:09,695
I'm not quite sure.
170
00:09:11,800 --> 00:09:14,375
Between here and the sea,
171
00:09:14,400 --> 00:09:16,695
half a million people
walked through here.
172
00:09:16,720 --> 00:09:19,135
I think people can imagine that now,
173
00:09:19,160 --> 00:09:22,055
because we've seen
so many Ukrainian refugees recently.
174
00:09:22,080 --> 00:09:23,815
Yes, terrible, terrible.
175
00:09:25,240 --> 00:09:28,415
And how many members of your family
do you think walked this path?
176
00:09:28,440 --> 00:09:31,415
My grand-uncle Carlos,
and his son...
177
00:09:32,960 --> 00:09:35,615
...and a couple of nephews.
Uh-huh.
178
00:09:35,640 --> 00:09:38,455
Which would be cousins of mine.
179
00:09:38,480 --> 00:09:42,895
They for sure walked through here,
because they were in the military,
180
00:09:42,920 --> 00:09:45,415
so they walked through here
with the army.
181
00:09:45,440 --> 00:09:48,175
Unfortunately, I have no details
182
00:09:48,200 --> 00:09:51,175
of how my father left Spain. Uh-huh.
183
00:09:51,200 --> 00:09:53,975
I know it was through the Pyrenees,
I know that it was from Barcelona.
184
00:09:54,000 --> 00:09:57,655
Yes. I think it's extremely likely
that it was along this path
185
00:09:57,680 --> 00:10:00,775
or a path exactly like it. Yes, yes.
For sure.
186
00:10:00,800 --> 00:10:05,455
The French opened the border to
Republican soldiers and civilians,
187
00:10:05,480 --> 00:10:08,815
but were totally unprepared
for the numbers that arrived.
188
00:10:08,840 --> 00:10:11,855
For many of the Spaniards,
once they got to France,
189
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their troubles...
..were just beginning.
190
00:10:14,280 --> 00:10:15,375
...were just beginning.
191
00:10:15,400 --> 00:10:18,655
There were different organisations
moving and working,
192
00:10:18,680 --> 00:10:20,535
especially from Perpignan,
193
00:10:20,560 --> 00:10:22,015
and if you were lucky,
194
00:10:22,040 --> 00:10:23,855
you could get help from them.
195
00:10:23,880 --> 00:10:27,055
But there were thousands
and thousands of refugees
196
00:10:27,080 --> 00:10:29,255
that they weren't able
to help everybody.
197
00:10:29,280 --> 00:10:31,695
I mean, they were known as
reception camps, but they... Well.
198
00:10:31,720 --> 00:10:34,415
They turned into something very much
like concentration camps.
199
00:10:34,440 --> 00:10:37,015
Er, well, that's what they were
described as, yes.
200
00:10:37,040 --> 00:10:38,655
And thousands died.
201
00:10:38,680 --> 00:10:40,015
More than...
202
00:10:40,040 --> 00:10:42,455
I mean, we don't know exactly how
many cited.
203
00:10:42,480 --> 00:10:44,015
It was terrible, terrible.
204
00:10:44,040 --> 00:10:45,975
My father was relatively lucky,
205
00:10:46,000 --> 00:10:48,975
because eventually he was sponsored
as an intellectual,
206
00:10:49,000 --> 00:10:51,535
and invited to Britain.
Mm-hm.
207
00:10:51,560 --> 00:10:54,975
My grandfather
and his eldest brother,
208
00:10:55,000 --> 00:10:59,495
they were offered contracts
in South American universities.
209
00:10:59,520 --> 00:11:01,095
That was very lucky for them.
210
00:11:01,120 --> 00:11:02,895
It was a bit easier
on the intellectuals
211
00:11:02,920 --> 00:11:04,815
than on the others.
Yes, yes.
212
00:11:04,840 --> 00:11:07,815
When Spain, in the 1970s,
213
00:11:07,840 --> 00:11:10,535
made the collective decision
214
00:11:10,560 --> 00:11:12,735
to move on
and leave the past behind,
215
00:11:12,760 --> 00:11:14,175
this was known as the...
216
00:11:14,200 --> 00:11:15,655
General amnesty, yeah.
217
00:11:15,680 --> 00:11:18,535
The general amnesty
and the pact of forgetting. Yeah.
218
00:11:18,560 --> 00:11:21,495
But of course it's not actually
worked out that way in the end,
219
00:11:21,520 --> 00:11:25,255
there's been a big revival
of the movement to remember
220
00:11:25,280 --> 00:11:27,135
what happened
in the Spanish Civil War.
221
00:11:27,160 --> 00:11:30,735
How do you stand on the subject
of forgetting and remembering?
222
00:11:30,760 --> 00:11:34,095
Oh... Well, I think that,
I mean, if...
223
00:11:34,120 --> 00:11:35,655
If you have to move forward,
224
00:11:35,680 --> 00:11:38,375
you have to know
what happened before.
225
00:11:38,400 --> 00:11:40,895
So I think that you have to remember
226
00:11:40,920 --> 00:11:42,735
and you have to know what happened,
227
00:11:42,760 --> 00:11:46,055
even if you don't...
I mean, even if it's really ugly.
228
00:11:46,080 --> 00:11:48,935
Of course, in my own case
it's more complicated again,
229
00:11:48,960 --> 00:11:51,575
because some of my uncles
were on the other side.
230
00:11:51,600 --> 00:11:54,215
Yes, that's very difficult.
So the family was divided.
231
00:11:54,240 --> 00:11:57,375
Yes. That's terrible.
And you, you know, their...
232
00:11:57,400 --> 00:12:01,015
their children are my cousins,
and my contemporaries. Yes. Mm-hm.
233
00:12:01,040 --> 00:12:03,215
Perhaps what was needed
in the '70s
234
00:12:03,240 --> 00:12:06,015
was not a pact of forgetting,
but a pact of forgiving.
235
00:12:06,040 --> 00:12:08,375
But that's rather idealistic. Yes.
Yes.
236
00:12:09,600 --> 00:12:12,055
That's pretty difficult
to forgive, huh?
237
00:12:21,520 --> 00:12:24,735
This fence marks the frontier
238
00:12:24,760 --> 00:12:27,295
between Spain and France,
239
00:12:27,320 --> 00:12:30,215
and thousands of Spanish exiles,
like my father,
240
00:12:30,240 --> 00:12:31,815
crossed this line.
241
00:12:31,840 --> 00:12:34,175
Some would be dead within days,
242
00:12:34,200 --> 00:12:36,095
dying of wounds, or exposure,
243
00:12:36,120 --> 00:12:38,335
and others, like my father,
244
00:12:38,360 --> 00:12:41,175
would go on to have five children,
245
00:12:41,200 --> 00:12:43,495
and a new life in another country.
246
00:13:10,280 --> 00:13:11,975
I don't know how my father would
have felt
247
00:13:12,000 --> 00:13:13,455
when he was leaving Spain,
248
00:13:13,480 --> 00:13:17,055
about the fact that he,
a Spanish Republican on the left,
249
00:13:17,080 --> 00:13:19,255
would have a son who would be
250
00:13:19,280 --> 00:13:21,855
a Conservative
British Cabinet Minister.
251
00:13:23,000 --> 00:13:27,375
But I hope he might think
that my coming here is a...
252
00:13:27,400 --> 00:13:30,415
is a tribute to him,
and to his suffering.
253
00:13:53,280 --> 00:13:55,615
Today, the wind is down,
254
00:13:55,640 --> 00:13:57,895
the air is quite chilly,
255
00:13:57,920 --> 00:14:00,615
but very, very still.
256
00:14:00,640 --> 00:14:02,615
Tiniest movement in the trees.
257
00:14:04,680 --> 00:14:06,535
But there's no mistaking
258
00:14:06,560 --> 00:14:08,535
that this is now...
259
00:14:08,560 --> 00:14:11,175
intense spring sunlight.
260
00:14:12,560 --> 00:14:14,855
Over 80 years ago, my father,
261
00:14:14,880 --> 00:14:18,055
who might well have been killed
had he remained in Spain,
262
00:14:18,080 --> 00:14:20,375
walked in defeat and despair
263
00:14:20,400 --> 00:14:22,015
through these mountains,
264
00:14:22,040 --> 00:14:24,855
which oddly now evoke
memories of my childhood.
265
00:14:25,960 --> 00:14:28,815
A little picture postcard of...
266
00:14:28,840 --> 00:14:31,135
the Catalonian Pyrenees.
267
00:14:32,360 --> 00:14:35,295
A little village
nestling so quietly
268
00:14:35,320 --> 00:14:39,055
beneath those enormous
black and white peaks.
269
00:14:42,760 --> 00:14:44,415
When I was nine years old,
270
00:14:44,440 --> 00:14:49,295
my parents sent me on my own
to Spain for the second time,
271
00:14:49,320 --> 00:14:52,535
and the uncle
with whom I was staying took me
272
00:14:52,560 --> 00:14:55,855
to a village which was where
his parents-in-law lived,
273
00:14:55,880 --> 00:14:57,535
and this reminds me of it.
274
00:14:57,560 --> 00:14:59,775
It was no bigger than this,
and for a month,
275
00:14:59,800 --> 00:15:04,095
my world was confined to
a small group of buildings like that
276
00:15:04,120 --> 00:15:06,735
and at that age, it doesn't matter,
277
00:15:06,760 --> 00:15:08,135
and you don't think about it.
278
00:15:09,160 --> 00:15:11,495
Back in London, as I grew older,
279
00:15:11,520 --> 00:15:13,535
I was in the suburbs,
280
00:15:13,560 --> 00:15:17,575
and I yearned
for the beating heart of the city,
281
00:15:17,600 --> 00:15:21,375
and I moved into
the very centre of the metropolis,
282
00:15:21,400 --> 00:15:23,935
and that has been my life
ever since.
283
00:15:27,920 --> 00:15:29,935
While I craved excitement,
284
00:15:29,960 --> 00:15:32,535
some find solace in a more peaceful
285
00:15:32,560 --> 00:15:34,215
and slower pace of life.
286
00:15:36,760 --> 00:15:38,215
I'm heading downhill
287
00:15:38,240 --> 00:15:39,935
to explore the gentle terrain
288
00:15:39,960 --> 00:15:41,815
of the Emporda Plain.
289
00:15:41,840 --> 00:15:44,175
This area has a tradition
of wine-making
290
00:15:44,200 --> 00:15:46,855
dating back to the 6th century BC.
291
00:15:48,000 --> 00:15:49,615
From the 1960s,
292
00:15:49,640 --> 00:15:51,615
many vineyard owners in the area
293
00:15:51,640 --> 00:15:53,495
were lured away to the coast,
294
00:15:53,520 --> 00:15:55,095
as tourism boomed.
295
00:15:56,240 --> 00:15:57,895
But in recent years,
296
00:15:57,920 --> 00:16:00,735
a new generation of winemakers
has moved in
297
00:16:00,760 --> 00:16:02,855
to revive old traditions.
298
00:16:03,840 --> 00:16:06,295
Just outside
the tiny village of Rabos,
299
00:16:06,320 --> 00:16:08,895
I'm meeting jordi Esteve Xifra,
300
00:16:08,920 --> 00:16:12,135
who nine years ago left city life
to produce wine.
301
00:16:13,200 --> 00:16:16,455
Jordi, what was it that brought you
into making wine?
302
00:16:16,480 --> 00:16:18,895
I was born in Girona 40 years ago,
303
00:16:18,920 --> 00:16:23,495
but my great-grandparents
was born here,
304
00:16:23,520 --> 00:16:28,015
so I make, like,
a return to the roots of the family.
305
00:16:28,040 --> 00:16:30,215
Did they live off the land,
your grandparents?
306
00:16:30,240 --> 00:16:34,815
Yeah! 50, 100 years ago, everybody
has a vineyard, has olive trees.
307
00:16:34,840 --> 00:16:37,775
Through here,
all that mountains was vineyards.
308
00:16:37,800 --> 00:16:40,455
So you absolutely feel
309
00:16:40,480 --> 00:16:43,095
a genetic connection
which has brought you back
310
00:16:43,120 --> 00:16:45,255
to your grandparents' roots?
Of course,
311
00:16:45,280 --> 00:16:47,255
of course, and I arrive here
312
00:16:47,280 --> 00:16:51,575
in the same mountain
that saw my family born here
313
00:16:51,600 --> 00:16:53,815
100 years ago, so, yeah.
314
00:16:53,840 --> 00:16:57,135
My grandparents,
my father...
315
00:16:57,160 --> 00:16:59,815
were from a small village in
Castilla,
316
00:16:59,840 --> 00:17:01,375
but a very historic one.
317
00:17:01,400 --> 00:17:04,015
It's called
Madrigal de las Altas Torres.
318
00:17:04,040 --> 00:17:07,095
I've never... I've never wanted to
go back to my father's village life,
319
00:17:07,120 --> 00:17:10,215
but nonetheless,
I've been drawn back to Spain
320
00:17:10,240 --> 00:17:13,175
again and again
like a powerful magnet. Nice, nice.
321
00:17:13,200 --> 00:17:16,055
So have you been involved
in restoration?
322
00:17:16,080 --> 00:17:18,255
Was this a vineyard
when you found it?
323
00:17:18,280 --> 00:17:20,535
Yeah, I found it 2016,
324
00:17:20,560 --> 00:17:22,215
in small vineyards.
325
00:17:22,240 --> 00:17:25,055
It's difficult to work
with big tractors,
326
00:17:25,080 --> 00:17:27,215
so it's by hand, you know,
327
00:17:27,240 --> 00:17:29,855
fertilisation, working the soil,
328
00:17:29,880 --> 00:17:32,415
replant the plants that...
329
00:17:32,440 --> 00:17:36,055
they are cited. So it's step by step,
330
00:17:36,080 --> 00:17:37,855
it's a slow rhythm.
331
00:17:37,880 --> 00:17:40,175
You cannot go faster,
332
00:17:40,200 --> 00:17:43,895
and in the world
that everything is so fast,
333
00:17:43,920 --> 00:17:47,135
I love that,
because it's like, relax,
334
00:17:47,160 --> 00:17:49,775
wait and see,
and work every clay hard.
335
00:17:49,800 --> 00:17:51,495
You've come from the city, Girona.
336
00:17:51,520 --> 00:17:53,495
This is happening more generally,
at least here,
337
00:17:53,520 --> 00:17:56,935
a return from the city to the
village, to the country. Why?
338
00:17:56,960 --> 00:17:59,215
Er it, it is a...
it is a change,
339
00:17:59,240 --> 00:18:02,735
it is a thing that I think
it's, like, ten years ago,
340
00:18:02,760 --> 00:18:04,695
it is starting.
341
00:18:04,720 --> 00:18:09,455
It is with connection with...
a slow life,
342
00:18:09,480 --> 00:18:11,775
you know, slow food,
a return to the past,
343
00:18:11,800 --> 00:18:16,615
and I think the people want
more connection with the nature,
344
00:18:16,640 --> 00:18:19,775
with the sun, the wind, the rain.
345
00:18:19,800 --> 00:18:22,415
We need to spend more time outside.
346
00:18:22,440 --> 00:18:25,055
Well, shall we see what you do
with the grapes?
347
00:18:25,080 --> 00:18:26,495
Of course, let's go.
348
00:18:40,520 --> 00:18:42,855
Jordi, what a beautiful room!
349
00:18:42,880 --> 00:18:45,055
OK, thank you.
Yeah, it's a new space.
350
00:18:45,080 --> 00:18:48,095
It's like being outside
and inside at the same time,
351
00:18:48,120 --> 00:18:49,615
with wonderful views.
352
00:18:52,960 --> 00:18:56,775
After breathing new life
into this 20-acre vineyard,
353
00:18:56,800 --> 00:19:00,175
jordi now creates
a range of nine organic wines
354
00:19:00,200 --> 00:19:02,335
specific to this region.
355
00:19:02,360 --> 00:19:04,255
OK, that is white wine,
356
00:19:04,280 --> 00:19:05,935
so minimal intervention,
357
00:19:05,960 --> 00:19:08,815
do not add nothing into the wine.
358
00:19:08,840 --> 00:19:11,975
So then you have a rustic character
359
00:19:12,000 --> 00:19:16,775
that gives an idea
how the wines was in the past.
360
00:19:16,800 --> 00:19:18,135
So the...
361
00:19:18,160 --> 00:19:20,975
the wine is very dark
for a white wine,
362
00:19:21,000 --> 00:19:23,495
and maybe a little cloudy as well,
363
00:19:23,520 --> 00:19:26,255
so this is not the sort of wine
that I'm used to seeing
364
00:19:26,280 --> 00:19:28,095
in a wine shop
or in a restaurant.
365
00:19:28,120 --> 00:19:31,215
That all colours
that you see is the...
366
00:19:31,240 --> 00:19:33,455
the authentic colours of the wine,
367
00:19:33,480 --> 00:19:35,655
you know,
it's a little bit oxidated,
368
00:19:35,680 --> 00:19:39,255
a little bit cloudy,
because we do not filter the wine.
369
00:19:42,160 --> 00:19:43,215
ASPIRATING SLURPING
370
00:19:44,760 --> 00:19:46,095
Gosh.
371
00:19:46,120 --> 00:19:48,575
No, that is a lovely wine
and it does...
372
00:19:49,760 --> 00:19:51,975
It does taste very, very natural,
373
00:19:52,000 --> 00:19:53,775
very straightforward.
374
00:19:53,800 --> 00:19:55,175
That's fantastic.
375
00:19:55,200 --> 00:19:59,455
It's one thing to be a romantic,
and to leave the city
376
00:19:59,480 --> 00:20:02,015
and go back to the countryside...
377
00:20:02,040 --> 00:20:04,055
but you have to live.
378
00:20:04,080 --> 00:20:07,135
And are you able
to live from your wines?
379
00:20:07,160 --> 00:20:09,935
Yeah, I'm a very romantic person.
380
00:20:09,960 --> 00:20:11,615
When I'm working in the vineyard,
381
00:20:11,640 --> 00:20:16,455
I'm thinking, the person who will
open the bottle, you know?
382
00:20:16,480 --> 00:20:18,895
But I have to organise the business.
383
00:20:18,920 --> 00:20:21,575
So now, I'm improving in that part,
384
00:20:21,600 --> 00:20:22,655
and...
385
00:20:22,680 --> 00:20:25,255
and yes, now...| have the balance.
386
00:20:25,280 --> 00:20:26,895
Good!
387
00:20:26,920 --> 00:20:29,695
So what have you discovered so far
388
00:20:29,720 --> 00:20:31,575
about the secret of life?
389
00:20:31,600 --> 00:20:34,335
What is the secret of being happy
in life, do you think, now?
390
00:20:34,360 --> 00:20:36,655
For me, in my own case,
391
00:20:36,680 --> 00:20:39,815
is to live the clay,
392
00:20:39,840 --> 00:20:41,855
is to live in the present,
393
00:20:41,880 --> 00:20:43,575
reconnect with the fields,
394
00:20:43,600 --> 00:20:45,735
with the plants,
makes...
395
00:20:45,760 --> 00:20:47,415
It calms me down.
396
00:20:47,440 --> 00:20:49,575
Well, you are very, very lucky
397
00:20:49,600 --> 00:20:51,495
to do things that you love.
398
00:20:51,520 --> 00:20:52,855
Yeah. Cheers.
399
00:20:52,880 --> 00:20:54,055
Cheers.
400
00:20:55,120 --> 00:20:59,135
Jordi has returned
to his ancestors' rural way of life.
401
00:20:59,160 --> 00:21:00,935
He's at one with nature,
402
00:21:00,960 --> 00:21:03,375
and I'm pleased
that it's bringing him joy.
403
00:21:15,520 --> 00:21:18,255
My route is taking me ever eastward,
404
00:21:18,280 --> 00:21:20,975
across the Emporda Plain
towards the coast.
405
00:21:29,440 --> 00:21:32,415
Being now so close to
the Mediterranean Sea,
406
00:21:32,440 --> 00:21:36,175
the landscape is once more
familiar to me.
407
00:21:37,200 --> 00:21:39,575
Behind me, cork trees,
and here,
408
00:21:39,600 --> 00:21:41,535
vineyards on the gentle slopes.
409
00:21:42,600 --> 00:21:45,215
And the only thing
that I'm not used to
410
00:21:45,240 --> 00:21:49,095
is the icy breeze
descending from the snowy peaks
411
00:21:49,120 --> 00:21:50,775
just beyond that ridge.
412
00:21:56,080 --> 00:21:59,175
They say that
spending time surrounded by nature
413
00:21:59,200 --> 00:22:01,655
can be good for the soul.
414
00:22:01,680 --> 00:22:02,855
Yet even in somewhere
415
00:22:02,880 --> 00:22:04,655
as remote and wild as the Pyrenees,
416
00:22:04,680 --> 00:22:06,775
it cannot be taken for granted.
417
00:22:10,240 --> 00:22:13,935
When the future of the native
Hermann's tortoise was under threat,
418
00:22:13,960 --> 00:22:15,495
40 years ago...
419
00:22:15,520 --> 00:22:16,495
SPEAKING SPANISH
420
00:22:17,600 --> 00:22:19,615
...Joan Budo set up this sanctuary
421
00:22:19,640 --> 00:22:22,095
to save these littlest
of Pyreneans.
422
00:22:22,120 --> 00:22:25,375
Porque esta en peligro?
Why is the tortoise in danger?
423
00:22:25,400 --> 00:22:26,655
SPEAKING SPANISH
424
00:22:50,080 --> 00:22:52,735
Si, si, 130 hay.
130 tortoises!
425
00:23:01,440 --> 00:23:03,255
What a beautiful creature!
426
00:23:03,280 --> 00:23:05,415
Una hembra.
Una hembra, it's a female.
427
00:23:05,440 --> 00:23:07,055
Adulta? Adulta, una hembra adult a.
428
00:23:07,080 --> 00:23:11,455
Es eltamano Maximo que pueden tener
las Tortugas adult as de esa especie.
429
00:23:11,480 --> 00:23:13,095
The maximum size they reach. Si.
430
00:23:13,120 --> 00:23:14,935
Esto es tipico?
This is typical?
431
00:23:25,600 --> 00:23:30,015
The sanctuary is supported by the
Catalonian Environmental Department,
432
00:23:30,040 --> 00:23:32,335
and the Albera Natural Park,
433
00:23:32,360 --> 00:23:34,855
and began a breeding program me
28 years ago.
434
00:23:36,040 --> 00:23:37,535
Joan is taking me to see
435
00:23:37,560 --> 00:23:39,055
some of their newest arrivals.
436
00:23:42,200 --> 00:23:44,455
Here we have to be very careful.
437
00:23:46,120 --> 00:23:47,495
Could be tortoises...
438
00:23:50,640 --> 00:23:51,735
Ah! Ah.
439
00:23:54,720 --> 00:23:56,135
Ah, que bueno!
440
00:23:56,160 --> 00:23:57,495
Hello!
441
00:23:57,520 --> 00:23:59,015
Hello, hello.
442
00:23:59,040 --> 00:24:01,815
Lovely, tiny tortoises,
443
00:24:01,840 --> 00:24:03,975
and quite active.
444
00:24:04,000 --> 00:24:05,295
The sun is on them,
445
00:24:05,320 --> 00:24:07,775
and they're warming up in my hands
as well,
446
00:24:07,800 --> 00:24:09,455
so they're poking
their little heads out,
447
00:24:09,480 --> 00:24:10,815
and moving their little feet.
448
00:24:11,840 --> 00:24:13,535
Aren't you beautiful?
449
00:24:13,560 --> 00:24:15,775
How old are these two, Joan?
Que edad tiene estos...
450
00:24:19,840 --> 00:24:21,535
18 months, my goodness.
451
00:24:22,600 --> 00:24:26,095
Que poco crecen, que lento crecen!
Si. How slow they are growing.
452
00:24:45,480 --> 00:24:47,015
Hoo-hoo-hoo...!
453
00:24:47,040 --> 00:24:48,735
Y este especie, donde se encuentra?
454
00:24:48,760 --> 00:24:50,695
Where do you find this species?
455
00:25:00,280 --> 00:25:02,575
There's a population
over the other side in France,
456
00:25:02,600 --> 00:25:04,815
there's a small population
in northern Italy,
457
00:25:04,840 --> 00:25:06,375
but they're all small populations,
458
00:25:06,400 --> 00:25:10,535
and so this lovely animal
is in danger of extinction.
459
00:25:18,320 --> 00:25:22,655
Joan says in Catalonia the tortoise
is now very well protected by law,
460
00:25:22,680 --> 00:25:25,095
and increasingly,
people are understanding
461
00:25:25,120 --> 00:25:28,335
that the proper place
for the tortoise is in nature,
462
00:25:28,360 --> 00:25:30,615
and not as a pet in people's houses.
463
00:25:32,320 --> 00:25:35,135
3,500 tortoises born here
464
00:25:35,160 --> 00:25:37,375
have been released into the wild,
465
00:25:37,400 --> 00:25:39,415
and researchers are learning more
466
00:25:39,440 --> 00:25:42,335
about how they behave
in their natural habitat.
467
00:25:42,360 --> 00:25:44,735
Joan says this tortoise was found
by a member of the public
468
00:25:44,760 --> 00:25:46,295
on a roadway.
469
00:25:46,320 --> 00:25:49,055
They will register it
and microchip it.
470
00:25:49,080 --> 00:25:52,015
They've already micro chipped
1,000 tortoises,
471
00:25:52,040 --> 00:25:54,895
which means that when they find them
again, they have a very good idea
472
00:25:54,920 --> 00:25:56,855
about their ecology,
473
00:25:56,880 --> 00:25:58,695
and a little bit
about their life history
474
00:25:58,720 --> 00:26:00,095
and their movements.
475
00:26:01,640 --> 00:26:03,815
So this is the tiny microchip
476
00:26:03,840 --> 00:26:05,935
which was taken up
inside the syringe.
477
00:26:08,960 --> 00:26:11,695
It's going to go into the shoulder
478
00:26:11,720 --> 00:26:13,695
just to the left of the head.
479
00:26:13,720 --> 00:26:14,735
He's pushing...
480
00:26:15,840 --> 00:26:17,415
So he now has his microchip.
481
00:26:18,480 --> 00:26:20,655
The tortoise hasn't reacted at all,
482
00:26:20,680 --> 00:26:24,935
and now we need to know
the number of the microchip. Si.
483
00:26:24,960 --> 00:26:26,775
And off she goes into the wild.
484
00:26:27,840 --> 00:26:30,055
Protecting these native creatures
485
00:26:30,080 --> 00:26:32,775
takes both patience
and commitment...
486
00:26:32,800 --> 00:26:34,175
Hasta mega.
Hasta mega.
487
00:26:35,240 --> 00:26:38,175
...and Joan has created a legacy
that will endure.
488
00:26:51,640 --> 00:26:53,455
The sun is stronger, I think.
489
00:26:53,480 --> 00:26:55,975
The Mediterranean is at hand.
490
00:26:56,000 --> 00:26:59,535
Everything tells me we're getting
towards the destination.
491
00:26:59,560 --> 00:27:03,215
I'm on the final leg
of my great Pyrenean adventure,
492
00:27:03,240 --> 00:27:06,415
walking stretches
of this wonderful mountain range.
493
00:27:07,520 --> 00:27:08,495
Huh.
494
00:27:09,720 --> 00:27:13,255
A tree has blown down
clean across the track.
495
00:27:13,280 --> 00:27:14,735
What a beautiful tree.
496
00:27:16,200 --> 00:27:18,815
No, I can't climb through it,
can't climb through it.
497
00:27:21,960 --> 00:27:23,055
GROANS
498
00:27:23,080 --> 00:27:24,455
See whether I can go around...
499
00:27:25,920 --> 00:27:27,535
Yeah... Oh!
500
00:27:27,560 --> 00:27:29,215
There's a pathway through here
I think.
501
00:27:34,920 --> 00:27:36,615
Oh, look at that!
502
00:27:38,000 --> 00:27:40,695
I think this might be a cork oak,
503
00:27:40,720 --> 00:27:45,375
and this is the bark that is used
to make cork.
504
00:27:46,760 --> 00:27:48,895
Very clean break.
505
00:27:48,920 --> 00:27:50,095
Sheesh!
506
00:27:50,120 --> 00:27:51,935
Going to be quite a job moving that.
507
00:27:54,440 --> 00:27:57,215
But there's no stopping
508
00:27:57,240 --> 00:27:59,375
the intrepid pilgrim!
509
00:28:02,800 --> 00:28:05,295
Away from the usual comforts
of my life,
510
00:28:05,320 --> 00:28:08,055
this challenge has been
a liberation,
511
00:28:08,080 --> 00:28:10,975
and the people that I have met,
an inspiration.
512
00:28:19,120 --> 00:28:21,295
My route has brought me
all the way
513
00:28:21,320 --> 00:28:23,855
from Spain's
northern Atlantic coast.
514
00:28:32,040 --> 00:28:33,375
Ah...
515
00:28:34,400 --> 00:28:35,375
SIGHS
516
00:28:36,880 --> 00:28:38,415
Onward.
517
00:28:38,440 --> 00:28:42,815
And now from this Serra De Rodes
ridge of the Pyrenees,
518
00:28:42,840 --> 00:28:45,575
at last I glimpse the Mediterranean.
519
00:28:50,000 --> 00:28:51,775
This spectacular peninsula,
520
00:28:51,800 --> 00:28:53,415
the Cap de Creus,
521
00:28:53,440 --> 00:28:56,295
is the most easterly point
on the Spanish mainland.
522
00:28:56,320 --> 00:28:58,575
Covering more than 50 square miles,
523
00:28:58,600 --> 00:29:01,335
it's protected as a natural park.
524
00:29:04,320 --> 00:29:09,175
A brief stroll through
the ruins of this mediaeval village,
525
00:29:09,200 --> 00:29:12,055
abandoned since
the time of the Black Death,
526
00:29:12,080 --> 00:29:15,535
brings me to my first view of sea
527
00:29:15,560 --> 00:29:17,455
since the Atlantic,
and what a contrast.
528
00:29:17,480 --> 00:29:20,415
An enclosed sea, and so blue,
529
00:29:20,440 --> 00:29:23,055
under this Mediterranean sky,
530
00:29:23,080 --> 00:29:26,495
and what a landscape of headlands!
531
00:29:26,520 --> 00:29:29,295
Joining me on
this penultimate stage of my walk
532
00:29:29,320 --> 00:29:32,095
is local guide Merce Don at.
533
00:29:32,120 --> 00:29:34,615
Hello, Merce.
Hello, Michael.
534
00:29:34,640 --> 00:29:37,735
What a pleasure to see you,
and what a panorama!
535
00:29:37,760 --> 00:29:40,935
A very prominent monastery here.
What is that?
536
00:29:40,960 --> 00:29:44,295
This is
the San Pere de Rodes Monastery,
537
00:29:44,320 --> 00:29:47,055
a Romanesque monastery from
the 9th century
538
00:29:47,080 --> 00:29:50,375
that was built by three monks
539
00:29:50,400 --> 00:29:54,215
to keep relics
from St Peter of Rome.
540
00:29:54,240 --> 00:29:56,015
Relics of St Peter?
541
00:29:56,040 --> 00:29:59,615
I mean, they have must been
extremely valuable. Yes!
542
00:29:59,640 --> 00:30:01,815
Rome was attacked,
543
00:30:01,840 --> 00:30:05,615
and the Pope
decided to split the relics
544
00:30:05,640 --> 00:30:07,415
around the Mediterranean Sea.
545
00:30:07,440 --> 00:30:09,095
With important relics,
546
00:30:09,120 --> 00:30:11,295
this was presumably
a place of pilgrimage,
547
00:30:11,320 --> 00:30:14,135
and they would bring money as part
of buying their penance,
548
00:30:14,160 --> 00:30:15,935
their forgiveness. Exactly.
549
00:30:15,960 --> 00:30:20,535
Ancl when this monastery in 1930
become a UNESCO site,
550
00:30:20,560 --> 00:30:24,775
they found many coins
in golden and silver,
551
00:30:24,800 --> 00:30:27,815
from all over
the Mediterranean countries.
552
00:30:28,960 --> 00:30:31,535
And are you from here?
Is this where you come from?
553
00:30:31,560 --> 00:30:33,375
Yes, I'm born in Cadaques,
554
00:30:33,400 --> 00:30:37,615
and my grandfather born
in the Valley of Santa Creus
555
00:30:37,640 --> 00:30:41,455
just behind these villages
that you can see on the coast.
556
00:30:41,480 --> 00:30:43,855
My grandparents,
they were farmers around,
557
00:30:43,880 --> 00:30:46,655
they were producing wine, oil,
558
00:30:46,680 --> 00:30:49,495
but I start to study abroad,
559
00:30:49,520 --> 00:30:51,975
and then I wanted
really to come back
560
00:30:52,000 --> 00:30:54,775
when I had my first child, Pau,
561
00:30:54,800 --> 00:30:58,655
and to show or to live
the same experience I had
562
00:30:58,680 --> 00:31:02,975
when I was a child
in this beautiful place.
563
00:31:03,000 --> 00:31:06,615
Describe that lifestyle.
I play between sea and mountains,
564
00:31:06,640 --> 00:31:09,215
and I was climbing a tree
or I was fishing,
565
00:31:09,240 --> 00:31:12,135
and eating directly the fish
from the sea,
566
00:31:12,160 --> 00:31:14,935
er, swim,
and that was amazing,
567
00:31:14,960 --> 00:31:17,695
to have this little community,
568
00:31:17,720 --> 00:31:19,615
so alive,
569
00:31:19,640 --> 00:31:21,975
so, so wild.
570
00:31:22,000 --> 00:31:25,295
Shall we take a little walk
and get an even higher view?
571
00:31:25,320 --> 00:31:27,735
Yeah. I would love to show you.
Good. Yeah.
572
00:31:33,360 --> 00:31:36,095
Here there is a plant that for me
it's special.
573
00:31:36,120 --> 00:31:37,935
Thyme, right?
Oh, thyme.
574
00:31:37,960 --> 00:31:41,255
Ancl it blooms at the end of March,
beginning April...
575
00:31:41,280 --> 00:31:42,695
Let me smell it.
576
00:31:43,760 --> 00:31:46,615
Lovely. Yeah.
Beautiful plant.
577
00:31:46,640 --> 00:31:48,295
What could it be used for?
578
00:31:48,320 --> 00:31:52,935
Erm, it can be very useful
if you have headache,
579
00:31:52,960 --> 00:31:55,895
stomach ache...
For the skin, it's very good.
580
00:31:55,920 --> 00:32:00,135
In winter when we feel
a little bit down, or bad mood,
581
00:32:00,160 --> 00:32:03,415
with a soup of ferigola,
of thyme,
582
00:32:03,440 --> 00:32:06,735
and it makes you strong and happy.
583
00:32:06,760 --> 00:32:09,695
Er, take care
because it's quite steep here.
584
00:32:09,720 --> 00:32:11,335
If you want to take my arm?
585
00:32:11,360 --> 00:32:12,455
Let me try. Yes.
586
00:32:12,480 --> 00:32:15,135
I think I'm... OK.
OK, OK. Oh, just...
587
00:32:15,160 --> 00:32:16,855
Here we go. Yes, exactly, very good.
588
00:32:16,880 --> 00:32:18,735
Thank you very much.
589
00:32:18,760 --> 00:32:20,975
Up we go. Yeah,
you're going to be fine, Michael.
590
00:32:21,000 --> 00:32:22,495
Going to be fine here, yeah.
591
00:32:22,520 --> 00:32:24,455
It's like little steps, you know?
592
00:32:24,480 --> 00:32:27,535
Normally, when you climb like this,
593
00:32:27,560 --> 00:32:30,295
it's much easier than going down!
594
00:32:33,680 --> 00:32:35,295
Triumph!
595
00:32:36,720 --> 00:32:38,215
Ah!
596
00:32:38,240 --> 00:32:39,895
And what a view!
597
00:32:39,920 --> 00:32:41,615
Not only out at the sea
598
00:32:41,640 --> 00:32:44,855
but also the inland,
and the view of the Pyrenees.
599
00:32:44,880 --> 00:32:47,495
It's a fantastic perspective
from here, isn't it?
600
00:32:47,520 --> 00:32:50,815
All the way over to
the monastery here on our right.
601
00:32:50,840 --> 00:32:53,015
And you can see
the village so well here,
602
00:32:53,040 --> 00:32:56,455
you can see the gate through which
the pilgrims, I suppose, entered.
603
00:32:56,480 --> 00:33:00,695
Can you imagine the emotion,
the sense of exhilaration
604
00:33:00,720 --> 00:33:02,935
having travel led
hundreds of kilometres, maybe?
605
00:33:02,960 --> 00:33:05,775
Exactly,
and walking through the Pyrenees
606
00:33:05,800 --> 00:33:08,895
with some friends,
or through Spain, or by boat.
607
00:33:08,920 --> 00:33:10,095
They reach the village,
608
00:33:10,120 --> 00:33:14,335
and they're within sight of
their destination and their goal.
609
00:33:14,360 --> 00:33:16,735
Ooh, my goodness, I'm almost
blowing off this mountain here.
610
00:33:16,760 --> 00:33:18,575
Er... Ahh!
611
00:33:18,600 --> 00:33:19,615
LAUGHTER
612
00:33:19,640 --> 00:33:21,175
Such a wind, goodness!
613
00:33:21,200 --> 00:33:22,215
Yeah!
614
00:33:22,240 --> 00:33:24,175
When you were away,
615
00:33:24,200 --> 00:33:26,575
what was it that you missed
about this place?
616
00:33:28,280 --> 00:33:31,295
How you call... It's a very...
What is it in Spanish?
617
00:33:31,320 --> 00:33:35,535
Erm, it's la... La alegria.
The... The joy.
618
00:33:35,560 --> 00:33:38,015
The joy.
The happiness. The happiness.
619
00:33:38,040 --> 00:33:41,455
I first came with my mother,
when I was two.
620
00:33:41,480 --> 00:33:45,135
I don't remember very much,
except that I hated the food.
621
00:33:46,400 --> 00:33:50,615
I think in those days the Spanish
used to eat a lot of chickpeas,
622
00:33:50,640 --> 00:33:53,015
and as a child
I found them very indigestible.
623
00:33:53,040 --> 00:33:56,815
So the only thing I would eat
on my first visit was custard,
624
00:33:56,840 --> 00:33:58,175
natillas.
625
00:33:58,200 --> 00:34:01,015
But my parents
then sent me back when I was eight.
626
00:34:01,040 --> 00:34:03,895
Some of the things about Spain
were delightfully old-fashioned.
627
00:34:03,920 --> 00:34:07,015
For instance, we would go picnicking
in a horse and cart.
628
00:34:07,040 --> 00:34:08,695
But everything has changed so much.
629
00:34:08,720 --> 00:34:10,375
I mean, not just the living standard
630
00:34:10,400 --> 00:34:13,215
and you've become incredibly
socially liberal.
631
00:34:13,240 --> 00:34:17,655
Yeah, perhaps also because of this
connection with the Mediterranean,
632
00:34:17,680 --> 00:34:20,415
because, no?
The tourism we have, too.
633
00:34:20,440 --> 00:34:23,655
I was smiling because I remember,
again, when I was a child,
634
00:34:23,680 --> 00:34:26,575
down here on the Costa Brava,
in the early '60s,
635
00:34:26,600 --> 00:34:30,575
British female tourists were
arrested here for wearing bikinis,
636
00:34:30,600 --> 00:34:33,535
and there was an old joke
that a Guardia Civil,
637
00:34:33,560 --> 00:34:35,775
a policeman stopped a woman
in a bikini and said,
638
00:34:35,800 --> 00:34:38,455
we only allow
one piece bathing suites here,
639
00:34:38,480 --> 00:34:40,615
and she said,
which part shall I take off?
640
00:34:40,640 --> 00:34:42,095
LAUGHTER
641
00:34:57,360 --> 00:34:59,895
It's always struck me as odd
642
00:34:59,920 --> 00:35:02,295
that I was able to come to Spain
643
00:35:02,320 --> 00:35:05,015
when my father was not
able to do so.
644
00:35:05,040 --> 00:35:06,695
Imagine that.
645
00:35:07,880 --> 00:35:11,455
So, in a way I was,
with my brothers,
646
00:35:11,480 --> 00:35:14,855
we were his representatives in Spain
647
00:35:14,880 --> 00:35:17,015
and I think that...
648
00:35:17,040 --> 00:35:19,055
that idea has always stuck with me,
649
00:35:19,080 --> 00:35:21,895
and I have seen
how the inner life of Spain
650
00:35:21,920 --> 00:35:25,735
has been released
with the end of dictatorship,
651
00:35:25,760 --> 00:35:28,415
and how much the place has changed
652
00:35:28,440 --> 00:35:32,015
as Spain has
maybe rediscovered its inner joy,
653
00:35:32,040 --> 00:35:34,575
and certainly
rediscovered its freedom.
654
00:35:43,000 --> 00:35:45,295
As the evening beckons,
655
00:35:45,320 --> 00:35:48,375
I'm looking for
some rest and restoration.
656
00:35:48,400 --> 00:35:49,815
DOG BARKS
657
00:35:49,840 --> 00:35:52,695
And I've been told of somewhere
that sounds perfect.
658
00:35:59,800 --> 00:36:04,855
A Casa Rural is somewhere where you
get bed, breakfast and dinner,
659
00:36:04,880 --> 00:36:08,735
subsidised by the local region
in order to promote tourism,
660
00:36:08,760 --> 00:36:10,695
and normally you have a lovely time,
661
00:36:10,720 --> 00:36:12,935
because you get to meet the family,
662
00:36:12,960 --> 00:36:17,255
but my goodness, rarely do you get
anything quite as beautiful
663
00:36:17,280 --> 00:36:19,375
and historic as this.
664
00:36:23,880 --> 00:36:26,055
Thanks, I'm Michael.
Casa Castillo.
665
00:36:26,080 --> 00:36:28,935
Casa Castillo, he says
it's a house and a castle.
666
00:36:28,960 --> 00:36:30,815
Un castillo del siglo trece.
667
00:36:30,840 --> 00:36:32,135
Oh.
668
00:36:32,160 --> 00:36:34,015
Ahi esta la apertura por la defensa.
669
00:36:34,040 --> 00:36:37,175
13th century castle, and there's
a slit there to fire arrows. Si.
670
00:36:42,640 --> 00:36:43,855
Anda!
671
00:36:51,920 --> 00:36:52,895
Mm.
672
00:37:02,840 --> 00:37:04,135
Gracias.
673
00:37:04,160 --> 00:37:05,855
In the Casa's cosy kitchen,
674
00:37:05,880 --> 00:37:09,775
Narcis has prepared me
a superb Pyrenean supper.
675
00:37:09,800 --> 00:37:12,295
...que no lo hacemos, lo compramos,
676
00:37:12,320 --> 00:37:13,935
y el aceite de Oliva,
677
00:37:13,960 --> 00:37:15,415
y despues, el vino.
678
00:37:16,480 --> 00:37:20,335
So it's all pretty much home grown.
679
00:37:20,360 --> 00:37:23,175
Er, tomatoes,
they have their own pigs,
680
00:37:23,200 --> 00:37:25,535
so these are the products
from the pig,
681
00:37:25,560 --> 00:37:27,975
they don't make their own bread,
682
00:37:28,000 --> 00:37:30,335
but of course they do make
their own olive oil.
683
00:37:45,800 --> 00:37:49,295
This journey has certainly been
putting my arthritic hip to the test
684
00:37:49,320 --> 00:37:51,095
and yet...
685
00:37:51,120 --> 00:37:55,335
I find myself in no pain whatsoever.
686
00:37:56,560 --> 00:37:58,135
I wonder why.
687
00:37:59,440 --> 00:38:00,655
Mm.
688
00:38:22,080 --> 00:38:25,535
My Spring adventure through
the Spanish and French Pyrenees
689
00:38:25,560 --> 00:38:27,855
has brought me over 300 miles
690
00:38:27,880 --> 00:38:30,575
to reach Catalonia's Cap de Creus,
691
00:38:30,600 --> 00:38:33,375
mainland Spain's
most easterly point.
692
00:38:48,240 --> 00:38:50,815
It's spectacular from on high,
693
00:38:50,840 --> 00:38:54,175
and I'm told
that its protected, rocky coastline
694
00:38:54,200 --> 00:38:57,295
is still more impressive
when it surrounds you.
695
00:39:04,160 --> 00:39:06,375
As I left Hondarribia,
696
00:39:06,400 --> 00:39:10,615
I noticed that the mountains rose
directly from the Atlantic,
697
00:39:10,640 --> 00:39:13,255
and those same Pyrenees
have continued,
698
00:39:13,280 --> 00:39:16,975
and now they drop
into the Mediterranean.
699
00:39:17,000 --> 00:39:20,775
The Pyrenees carry the walker
from ocean to sea,
700
00:39:20,800 --> 00:39:22,775
from coast to coast.
701
00:39:27,800 --> 00:39:30,775
Just around this headland,
in the town of Cadaques,
702
00:39:30,800 --> 00:39:32,855
these craggy coves and inlets
703
00:39:32,880 --> 00:39:35,775
fired the imagination
of its most famous resident.
704
00:39:36,920 --> 00:39:39,575
I first came across Salvador Dali,
705
00:39:39,600 --> 00:39:41,815
the surrealist painter,
706
00:39:41,840 --> 00:39:44,415
through his collaboration
with Alfred Hitchcock
707
00:39:44,440 --> 00:39:46,775
in the movie Spellbound.
708
00:39:46,800 --> 00:39:50,455
There's a dream scene
designed by Dali,
709
00:39:50,480 --> 00:39:53,655
with curtains
that are covered in human eyes.
710
00:39:53,680 --> 00:39:55,375
Very bizarre.
711
00:39:55,400 --> 00:39:57,575
And he was such
an extraordinary figure,
712
00:39:57,600 --> 00:40:00,095
and then I found out that he was
from Spain,
713
00:40:00,120 --> 00:40:03,375
and he's very much associated
with this peninsula,
714
00:40:03,400 --> 00:40:06,095
and so, with my non-artistic eye,
715
00:40:06,120 --> 00:40:08,735
I've been trying to think what
would attract the artist to here.
716
00:40:08,760 --> 00:40:11,295
Well, of course,
the green of the vegetation
717
00:40:11,320 --> 00:40:16,255
is constantly interrupted
by riotous geology.
718
00:40:17,400 --> 00:40:19,775
The rocks here are unruly,
719
00:40:19,800 --> 00:40:23,135
and everywhere, they protrude
through the greenery,
720
00:40:23,160 --> 00:40:26,335
to produce images
in the imagination, at least,
721
00:40:26,360 --> 00:40:29,135
of figures, of creatures,
722
00:40:29,160 --> 00:40:32,935
in greys, but also in yellows
and orange,
723
00:40:32,960 --> 00:40:36,415
and many of them
overlain with lichen.
724
00:40:44,320 --> 00:40:47,095
After 12 exhilarating days,
725
00:40:47,120 --> 00:40:49,655
I finally reach my destination.
726
00:40:50,920 --> 00:40:52,895
The end is in sight.
727
00:40:52,920 --> 00:40:55,175
Down to the sea.
728
00:40:55,200 --> 00:40:57,855
That is the finishing line.
729
00:41:12,680 --> 00:41:16,095
What a beautiful view of
the Mediterranean!
730
00:41:27,600 --> 00:41:29,735
And from this little promontory,
731
00:41:29,760 --> 00:41:31,895
I can look back,
732
00:41:31,920 --> 00:41:34,175
and bid farewell
733
00:41:34,200 --> 00:41:37,215
to my companions
over these last four walks,
734
00:41:37,240 --> 00:41:39,175
the Pyrenees.
735
00:41:44,960 --> 00:41:47,655
Embarking on a hike at my age,
736
00:41:47,680 --> 00:41:49,535
and with an arthritic hip,
737
00:41:49,560 --> 00:41:52,095
might seem
like a foolhardy thing to do.
738
00:41:52,120 --> 00:41:53,855
It's a bit sore,
739
00:41:53,880 --> 00:41:57,015
but I've made it
with plenty of puff to spare.
740
00:41:57,040 --> 00:41:58,655
I can't help thinking
741
00:41:58,680 --> 00:42:00,615
that my Basque makila
742
00:42:00,640 --> 00:42:02,455
has been a great help,
743
00:42:02,480 --> 00:42:04,375
and I don't think
I'll ever leave home without it.
744
00:42:05,480 --> 00:42:07,215
Completing this challenge,
745
00:42:07,240 --> 00:42:10,335
I feel both triumphant and wistful.
746
00:42:10,360 --> 00:42:12,815
Every day has been spectacular.
747
00:42:16,400 --> 00:42:18,295
Sometimes, because of the weather...
748
00:42:20,200 --> 00:42:22,055
LAUGHS AND GROANS
749
00:42:22,080 --> 00:42:25,615
But on other days,
due to the views across landscapes.
750
00:42:28,560 --> 00:42:30,695
Hi, Michael! Hello!
751
00:42:30,720 --> 00:42:32,215
I've met some wonderful people...
752
00:42:32,240 --> 00:42:34,655
It looks like you have done it
all your life.
753
00:42:34,680 --> 00:42:36,135
They're lovely!
754
00:42:36,160 --> 00:42:38,135
...who've greeted me so warmly.
755
00:42:38,160 --> 00:42:41,655
I'll miss the daily adventure
of making new friends.
756
00:42:41,680 --> 00:42:43,335
Muchisimas gracias.
757
00:42:43,360 --> 00:42:45,375
A votre sante, madame.
A votre sante.
758
00:42:45,400 --> 00:42:48,175
Their lives are
a world away from mine...
759
00:42:48,200 --> 00:42:50,015
Cheers.
Cheers.
760
00:42:50,040 --> 00:42:52,615
...but I've learned
that happiness comes in many forms,
761
00:42:52,640 --> 00:42:55,535
and sometimes
from the simplest things.
762
00:42:55,560 --> 00:42:59,695
I fell in love with stars
when I was a child.
763
00:43:00,920 --> 00:43:02,895
Discovering the splendour
of these mountains
764
00:43:02,920 --> 00:43:04,695
has been a wonder,
765
00:43:04,720 --> 00:43:07,535
and I depart enriched by them.
766
00:43:07,560 --> 00:43:10,095
Reaching the end,
I feel proud,
767
00:43:10,120 --> 00:43:12,615
but on every step along the way,
768
00:43:12,640 --> 00:43:15,295
I've felt the joy of being alive.
769
00:43:16,360 --> 00:43:20,815
My brothers and I owe our existence
to the Spanish Civil War.
770
00:43:22,040 --> 00:43:25,415
And I'm thinking
that a story like ours
771
00:43:25,440 --> 00:43:27,975
will be told in coming decades
772
00:43:28,000 --> 00:43:31,975
by the sons and daughters
of Ukrainian refugees,
773
00:43:32,000 --> 00:43:35,175
presently arriving on
the shores of Britain in despair,
774
00:43:35,200 --> 00:43:37,375
as my father was,
775
00:43:37,400 --> 00:43:41,295
but who may meet
and marry British partners.
776
00:43:42,560 --> 00:43:45,895
The misery of war
in Europe continues,
777
00:43:45,920 --> 00:43:50,615
but fate still works
its quirky magic,
778
00:43:50,640 --> 00:43:54,055
and while I've been headed
on this part of my journey
779
00:43:54,080 --> 00:43:56,215
south out of the Pyrenees,
780
00:43:56,240 --> 00:43:58,255
I've been thinking about being
781
00:43:58,280 --> 00:44:00,615
the product of two nationalities,
782
00:44:00,640 --> 00:44:04,375
with one foot in Spain
and one foot in Britain.
783
00:44:05,400 --> 00:44:08,615
I think
my duality has been a blessing.
784
00:44:08,640 --> 00:44:10,455
It's given me...
785
00:44:10,480 --> 00:44:13,135
two cultures, two families,
786
00:44:13,160 --> 00:44:17,655
two sets of friends,
two perspectives,
787
00:44:17,680 --> 00:44:21,455
and I think my saunter through life
788
00:44:21,480 --> 00:44:23,815
has been doubly enjoyable.
789
00:44:56,160 --> 00:44:58,135
Subtitles by Red Bee Media
59794
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