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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:04,160 --> 00:00:07,695 What a beautiful view of the Mediterranean. 2 00:00:10,360 --> 00:00:13,815 I'm going on a journey of self discovery... 3 00:00:13,840 --> 00:00:15,295 What a place! 4 00:00:15,320 --> 00:00:18,015 ...walking stretches between the summits 5 00:00:18,040 --> 00:00:20,215 of the Spanish and French Pyrenees. 6 00:00:20,240 --> 00:00:22,095 My word... 7 00:00:22,120 --> 00:00:24,695 Approaching three score years and ten, 8 00:00:24,720 --> 00:00:26,415 I have much to reflect on. 9 00:00:26,440 --> 00:00:29,215 What is the secret of being happy in life, do you think, now? 10 00:00:29,240 --> 00:00:33,455 So I'm challenging myself on an ambitious mountain adventure. 11 00:00:33,480 --> 00:00:35,335 GROANS DEEPLY THEY LAUGH 12 00:00:40,040 --> 00:00:42,415 I'll start at the Atlantic Ocean, 13 00:00:42,440 --> 00:00:45,415 crossing borders between Spain and France, 14 00:00:45,440 --> 00:00:48,215 and end at the Mediterranean Sea. 15 00:00:49,680 --> 00:00:51,815 Meeting the people who live here... 16 00:00:51,840 --> 00:00:53,215 Working on the land together, 17 00:00:53,240 --> 00:00:55,815 everybody's equal, and that's when you really bond. 18 00:00:55,840 --> 00:00:57,375 It's like falling in love again. 19 00:00:57,400 --> 00:01:00,855 I began to get this sense of total peace. 20 00:01:00,880 --> 00:01:03,295 I'll test myself physically... 21 00:01:04,400 --> 00:01:05,415 WIN D HOWLS 22 00:01:05,440 --> 00:01:06,695 HE GROANS 23 00:01:06,720 --> 00:01:08,415 This is no joke. 24 00:01:08,440 --> 00:01:10,615 ...and have time to contemplate the past... 25 00:01:11,720 --> 00:01:14,255 Somewhere through these hills my father walked, 26 00:01:14,280 --> 00:01:16,895 to leave Spain as a political refugee. 27 00:01:18,800 --> 00:01:22,375 ...open to whatever this personal quest may teach me. 28 00:01:23,520 --> 00:01:25,415 It has impressed upon me 29 00:01:25,440 --> 00:01:29,215 how free is the human spirit to choose its own way, 30 00:01:29,240 --> 00:01:31,655 and that is inspiring. 31 00:01:46,320 --> 00:01:47,815 UP We go. 32 00:01:52,360 --> 00:01:55,375 The final stretch of my Pyrenean challenge 33 00:01:55,400 --> 00:01:59,295 will include a strong element of personal pilgrimage. 34 00:01:59,320 --> 00:02:01,895 I've crossed back into Spain, 35 00:02:01,920 --> 00:02:05,175 to the north-eastern region of Catalonia. 36 00:02:05,200 --> 00:02:06,375 HE GROANS 37 00:02:18,000 --> 00:02:19,535 My first goal, 38 00:02:19,560 --> 00:02:23,215 the popular viewpoint Mirador de la Tortuga. 39 00:02:26,200 --> 00:02:28,895 And round we go... 40 00:02:30,040 --> 00:02:31,335 Got it. 41 00:02:38,240 --> 00:02:40,735 I feel the summit, 42 00:02:40,760 --> 00:02:42,335 I sense it. 43 00:02:42,360 --> 00:02:43,335 DEEP BREATHS 44 00:02:45,080 --> 00:02:46,855 HEAVIER BREATHING 45 00:02:49,800 --> 00:02:51,415 Definitely tiring. 46 00:02:52,520 --> 00:02:54,735 I'm in better condition overall 47 00:02:54,760 --> 00:02:58,295 than I was at the start of my walks, but, er... 48 00:02:58,320 --> 00:03:00,935 the hip is a bit painful today, 49 00:03:00,960 --> 00:03:03,855 so it kind of balances out, 50 00:03:03,880 --> 00:03:06,175 and now, I'm going to be treated to... 51 00:03:06,200 --> 00:03:07,375 Oh, yeah. 52 00:03:11,160 --> 00:03:15,175 ...a 360 degree view, 53 00:03:15,200 --> 00:03:17,775 of mountain, and village, 54 00:03:17,800 --> 00:03:20,655 and crag, and lake, and dam... 55 00:03:22,080 --> 00:03:23,815 ...and more mountains. 56 00:03:24,880 --> 00:03:26,135 Yeah. 57 00:03:26,160 --> 00:03:27,735 SIGHS 58 00:03:27,760 --> 00:03:29,375 Worth all the panting. 59 00:03:32,840 --> 00:03:34,975 I started at the Atlantic, 60 00:03:35,000 --> 00:03:36,615 I've made it, almost, 61 00:03:36,640 --> 00:03:38,055 to the Med. 62 00:03:42,200 --> 00:03:44,495 As civil war raged in Spain, 63 00:03:44,520 --> 00:03:46,255 over 80 years ago, 64 00:03:46,280 --> 00:03:48,855 these cruel mountains would feature 65 00:03:48,880 --> 00:03:51,215 in the back story to my life. 66 00:03:52,600 --> 00:03:54,415 Spain is something special to me, 67 00:03:54,440 --> 00:03:56,495 because I am half Spanish, 68 00:03:56,520 --> 00:03:59,495 and this is not a corner that I know very well, 69 00:03:59,520 --> 00:04:02,175 but it is important 70 00:04:02,200 --> 00:04:04,175 in my family history, 71 00:04:04,200 --> 00:04:07,015 because somewhere through these hills 72 00:04:07,040 --> 00:04:09,815 my father walked, to leave Spain, 73 00:04:09,840 --> 00:04:13,655 as a political refugee in February of 1939. 74 00:04:13,680 --> 00:04:18,015 All his feelings must have been of despair, 75 00:04:18,040 --> 00:04:21,695 of despair, and everything that he believed in politically, 76 00:04:21,720 --> 00:04:25,495 democracy, the Republic, all of that had crumbled away, 77 00:04:25,520 --> 00:04:29,455 and Spain was now under a dictatorship that he loathed, 78 00:04:29,480 --> 00:04:31,895 as he tramped, 79 00:04:31,920 --> 00:04:34,375 in February, through the Pyrenees, 80 00:04:34,400 --> 00:04:36,775 to an entirely unknown destiny, 81 00:04:36,800 --> 00:04:39,535 and I have never come back 82 00:04:39,560 --> 00:04:41,495 to walk in his footsteps. 83 00:04:43,400 --> 00:04:44,935 In my last three days, 84 00:04:44,960 --> 00:04:47,095 I'll cover around 40 miles 85 00:04:47,120 --> 00:04:49,575 starting in the Catalan Pyrenees, 86 00:04:49,600 --> 00:04:51,535 meeting people who, like me, 87 00:04:51,560 --> 00:04:53,375 have returned to the area 88 00:04:53,400 --> 00:04:54,935 due to a family connection. 89 00:04:56,080 --> 00:04:59,055 My route will take me to the village of La Vajol, 90 00:04:59,080 --> 00:05:02,015 where thousands of refugees, like my father, 91 00:05:02,040 --> 00:05:04,575 said their last goodbyes to Spain. 92 00:05:04,600 --> 00:05:06,255 I'll meet a vineyard owner 93 00:05:06,280 --> 00:05:09,255 who's embracing the rural life of his forefathers, 94 00:05:09,280 --> 00:05:11,135 and walk with a local guide 95 00:05:11,160 --> 00:05:13,575 who was drawn back to her roots. 96 00:05:13,600 --> 00:05:15,095 I'll finish my journey 97 00:05:15,120 --> 00:05:17,415 where the mountains meet the Mediterranean, 98 00:05:17,440 --> 00:05:18,975 at the Cap de Creus, 99 00:05:19,000 --> 00:05:21,815 the most easterly point on the Spanish mainland. 100 00:05:24,960 --> 00:05:26,575 In 1931, 101 00:05:26,600 --> 00:05:30,215 Spain changed from being a monarchy to a republic 102 00:05:30,240 --> 00:05:32,775 with an elected president, and government. 103 00:05:33,840 --> 00:05:37,375 And in 1936, the Spanish Civil War began, 104 00:05:37,400 --> 00:05:40,335 with a military rebellion against the government. 105 00:05:43,760 --> 00:05:46,175 During the three years of the Civil War, 106 00:05:46,200 --> 00:05:48,535 the government lost territory to the rebels, 107 00:05:48,560 --> 00:05:51,095 and had to move its capital repeatedly. 108 00:05:52,560 --> 00:05:53,935 Eventually, 109 00:05:53,960 --> 00:05:57,415 the President of the Republic ended up in this house, Can Bar is, 110 00:05:57,440 --> 00:06:00,215 in a tiny village in the Pyrenees, 111 00:06:00,240 --> 00:06:02,615 and ruled from here 112 00:06:02,640 --> 00:06:04,975 what was left of the Republic, 113 00:06:05,000 --> 00:06:06,495 in its last days. 114 00:06:07,800 --> 00:06:09,775 My father, Luis Portillo, 115 00:06:09,800 --> 00:06:11,415 a law professor, 116 00:06:11,440 --> 00:06:13,935 became Deputy Secretary of justice 117 00:06:13,960 --> 00:06:15,855 in the Republican government. 118 00:06:15,880 --> 00:06:18,695 Like many Spanish families, his was torn apart 119 00:06:18,720 --> 00:06:22,135 as five of his brothers fought on the other side. 120 00:06:22,160 --> 00:06:24,455 He was forced to leave his homeland, 121 00:06:24,480 --> 00:06:27,655 but was lucky enough to create a new life in Britain 122 00:06:27,680 --> 00:06:30,215 after meeting Cora, my mother, 123 00:06:30,240 --> 00:06:32,055 seen here with my brothers 124 00:06:32,080 --> 00:06:33,655 and me, bare-chested. 125 00:06:36,960 --> 00:06:39,455 The Spanish Civil War hung over my father's life 126 00:06:39,480 --> 00:06:41,135 like an enormous, dark shadow. 127 00:06:41,160 --> 00:06:44,215 He was constantly talking about everything that had gone wrong... 128 00:06:45,800 --> 00:06:50,535 ...but he would not dwell on personal experience, 129 00:06:50,560 --> 00:06:53,215 and so I have only the vaguest idea 130 00:06:53,240 --> 00:06:55,135 of how he left Spain. 131 00:07:00,920 --> 00:07:04,935 Barcelona, the capital of Republican Catalonia, 132 00:07:04,960 --> 00:07:10,135 fell to General Franco's Nationalist forces in January 1939, 133 00:07:10,160 --> 00:07:14,055 and many sympathisers and soldiers looking for an escape route 134 00:07:14,080 --> 00:07:16,815 headed to this mountain village of La Vajol, 135 00:07:16,840 --> 00:07:19,455 to cross the border into France. 136 00:07:23,200 --> 00:07:26,855 It has quite a big place in the history of the Spanish Republic, 137 00:07:26,880 --> 00:07:31,135 because so many people, in the dying days of that government, 138 00:07:31,160 --> 00:07:34,575 passed through here on their way to exile in France, 139 00:07:34,600 --> 00:07:36,175 and beyond. 140 00:07:36,200 --> 00:07:38,055 And here is a plaque in memory 141 00:07:38,080 --> 00:07:40,215 of all the Republicans of the war, 142 00:07:40,240 --> 00:07:42,415 1936 to 1939. 143 00:07:42,440 --> 00:07:45,575 In the bottom right, the flag of Catalonia, 144 00:07:45,600 --> 00:07:47,615 and in the bottom left, 145 00:07:47,640 --> 00:07:50,095 in red, yellow and purple, 146 00:07:50,120 --> 00:07:53,095 the flag of the defunct Spanish Republic. 147 00:08:08,760 --> 00:08:10,415 Hello, Margaret. Hello, Michael. 148 00:08:10,440 --> 00:08:12,775 It's good to see you. How are you? How are you? Good to see you. 149 00:08:13,840 --> 00:08:16,255 Margaret works at a nearby Civil War museum, 150 00:08:16,280 --> 00:08:20,015 and, as for me, that war is part of her family history, 151 00:08:20,040 --> 00:08:22,495 with relatives forced to flee Spain, 152 00:08:22,520 --> 00:08:24,095 some of them through here. 153 00:08:25,160 --> 00:08:28,135 Just above the village, the route that the refugees took 154 00:08:28,160 --> 00:08:31,535 is known today as Un Camino del Exilio, 155 00:08:31,560 --> 00:08:33,615 A Path into Exile. 156 00:08:33,640 --> 00:08:37,255 Margaret and I are tracing it along this forest trail 157 00:08:37,280 --> 00:08:39,575 as it climbs towards the French border. 158 00:08:41,280 --> 00:08:44,335 Can you imagine hundreds of people walking up here? 159 00:08:45,600 --> 00:08:48,935 A miserable stream of humanity. Yes. 160 00:08:48,960 --> 00:08:52,335 I... I mean, it was in the middle of the winter and it was freezing. 161 00:08:52,360 --> 00:08:55,415 Everything was behind them. Yes. 162 00:08:55,440 --> 00:08:57,175 So, their possessions, their families, 163 00:08:57,200 --> 00:08:59,415 their country, their jobs. Yeah. Everything. 164 00:08:59,440 --> 00:09:01,015 And all their political illusions. 165 00:09:01,040 --> 00:09:02,935 Absolutely. Because they'd just lost, 166 00:09:02,960 --> 00:09:04,735 and everything that mattered to them... Yes. 167 00:09:04,760 --> 00:09:06,415 ...had been destroyed, 168 00:09:06,440 --> 00:09:08,375 and how they put one foot in front of the other, 169 00:09:08,400 --> 00:09:09,695 I'm not quite sure. 170 00:09:11,800 --> 00:09:14,375 Between here and the sea, 171 00:09:14,400 --> 00:09:16,695 half a million people walked through here. 172 00:09:16,720 --> 00:09:19,135 I think people can imagine that now, 173 00:09:19,160 --> 00:09:22,055 because we've seen so many Ukrainian refugees recently. 174 00:09:22,080 --> 00:09:23,815 Yes, terrible, terrible. 175 00:09:25,240 --> 00:09:28,415 And how many members of your family do you think walked this path? 176 00:09:28,440 --> 00:09:31,415 My grand-uncle Carlos, and his son... 177 00:09:32,960 --> 00:09:35,615 ...and a couple of nephews. Uh-huh. 178 00:09:35,640 --> 00:09:38,455 Which would be cousins of mine. 179 00:09:38,480 --> 00:09:42,895 They for sure walked through here, because they were in the military, 180 00:09:42,920 --> 00:09:45,415 so they walked through here with the army. 181 00:09:45,440 --> 00:09:48,175 Unfortunately, I have no details 182 00:09:48,200 --> 00:09:51,175 of how my father left Spain. Uh-huh. 183 00:09:51,200 --> 00:09:53,975 I know it was through the Pyrenees, I know that it was from Barcelona. 184 00:09:54,000 --> 00:09:57,655 Yes. I think it's extremely likely that it was along this path 185 00:09:57,680 --> 00:10:00,775 or a path exactly like it. Yes, yes. For sure. 186 00:10:00,800 --> 00:10:05,455 The French opened the border to Republican soldiers and civilians, 187 00:10:05,480 --> 00:10:08,815 but were totally unprepared for the numbers that arrived. 188 00:10:08,840 --> 00:10:11,855 For many of the Spaniards, once they got to France, 189 00:10:11,880 --> 00:10:14,255 their troubles... ..were just beginning. 190 00:10:14,280 --> 00:10:15,375 ...were just beginning. 191 00:10:15,400 --> 00:10:18,655 There were different organisations moving and working, 192 00:10:18,680 --> 00:10:20,535 especially from Perpignan, 193 00:10:20,560 --> 00:10:22,015 and if you were lucky, 194 00:10:22,040 --> 00:10:23,855 you could get help from them. 195 00:10:23,880 --> 00:10:27,055 But there were thousands and thousands of refugees 196 00:10:27,080 --> 00:10:29,255 that they weren't able to help everybody. 197 00:10:29,280 --> 00:10:31,695 I mean, they were known as reception camps, but they... Well. 198 00:10:31,720 --> 00:10:34,415 They turned into something very much like concentration camps. 199 00:10:34,440 --> 00:10:37,015 Er, well, that's what they were described as, yes. 200 00:10:37,040 --> 00:10:38,655 And thousands died. 201 00:10:38,680 --> 00:10:40,015 More than... 202 00:10:40,040 --> 00:10:42,455 I mean, we don't know exactly how many cited. 203 00:10:42,480 --> 00:10:44,015 It was terrible, terrible. 204 00:10:44,040 --> 00:10:45,975 My father was relatively lucky, 205 00:10:46,000 --> 00:10:48,975 because eventually he was sponsored as an intellectual, 206 00:10:49,000 --> 00:10:51,535 and invited to Britain. Mm-hm. 207 00:10:51,560 --> 00:10:54,975 My grandfather and his eldest brother, 208 00:10:55,000 --> 00:10:59,495 they were offered contracts in South American universities. 209 00:10:59,520 --> 00:11:01,095 That was very lucky for them. 210 00:11:01,120 --> 00:11:02,895 It was a bit easier on the intellectuals 211 00:11:02,920 --> 00:11:04,815 than on the others. Yes, yes. 212 00:11:04,840 --> 00:11:07,815 When Spain, in the 1970s, 213 00:11:07,840 --> 00:11:10,535 made the collective decision 214 00:11:10,560 --> 00:11:12,735 to move on and leave the past behind, 215 00:11:12,760 --> 00:11:14,175 this was known as the... 216 00:11:14,200 --> 00:11:15,655 General amnesty, yeah. 217 00:11:15,680 --> 00:11:18,535 The general amnesty and the pact of forgetting. Yeah. 218 00:11:18,560 --> 00:11:21,495 But of course it's not actually worked out that way in the end, 219 00:11:21,520 --> 00:11:25,255 there's been a big revival of the movement to remember 220 00:11:25,280 --> 00:11:27,135 what happened in the Spanish Civil War. 221 00:11:27,160 --> 00:11:30,735 How do you stand on the subject of forgetting and remembering? 222 00:11:30,760 --> 00:11:34,095 Oh... Well, I think that, I mean, if... 223 00:11:34,120 --> 00:11:35,655 If you have to move forward, 224 00:11:35,680 --> 00:11:38,375 you have to know what happened before. 225 00:11:38,400 --> 00:11:40,895 So I think that you have to remember 226 00:11:40,920 --> 00:11:42,735 and you have to know what happened, 227 00:11:42,760 --> 00:11:46,055 even if you don't... I mean, even if it's really ugly. 228 00:11:46,080 --> 00:11:48,935 Of course, in my own case it's more complicated again, 229 00:11:48,960 --> 00:11:51,575 because some of my uncles were on the other side. 230 00:11:51,600 --> 00:11:54,215 Yes, that's very difficult. So the family was divided. 231 00:11:54,240 --> 00:11:57,375 Yes. That's terrible. And you, you know, their... 232 00:11:57,400 --> 00:12:01,015 their children are my cousins, and my contemporaries. Yes. Mm-hm. 233 00:12:01,040 --> 00:12:03,215 Perhaps what was needed in the '70s 234 00:12:03,240 --> 00:12:06,015 was not a pact of forgetting, but a pact of forgiving. 235 00:12:06,040 --> 00:12:08,375 But that's rather idealistic. Yes. Yes. 236 00:12:09,600 --> 00:12:12,055 That's pretty difficult to forgive, huh? 237 00:12:21,520 --> 00:12:24,735 This fence marks the frontier 238 00:12:24,760 --> 00:12:27,295 between Spain and France, 239 00:12:27,320 --> 00:12:30,215 and thousands of Spanish exiles, like my father, 240 00:12:30,240 --> 00:12:31,815 crossed this line. 241 00:12:31,840 --> 00:12:34,175 Some would be dead within days, 242 00:12:34,200 --> 00:12:36,095 dying of wounds, or exposure, 243 00:12:36,120 --> 00:12:38,335 and others, like my father, 244 00:12:38,360 --> 00:12:41,175 would go on to have five children, 245 00:12:41,200 --> 00:12:43,495 and a new life in another country. 246 00:13:10,280 --> 00:13:11,975 I don't know how my father would have felt 247 00:13:12,000 --> 00:13:13,455 when he was leaving Spain, 248 00:13:13,480 --> 00:13:17,055 about the fact that he, a Spanish Republican on the left, 249 00:13:17,080 --> 00:13:19,255 would have a son who would be 250 00:13:19,280 --> 00:13:21,855 a Conservative British Cabinet Minister. 251 00:13:23,000 --> 00:13:27,375 But I hope he might think that my coming here is a... 252 00:13:27,400 --> 00:13:30,415 is a tribute to him, and to his suffering. 253 00:13:53,280 --> 00:13:55,615 Today, the wind is down, 254 00:13:55,640 --> 00:13:57,895 the air is quite chilly, 255 00:13:57,920 --> 00:14:00,615 but very, very still. 256 00:14:00,640 --> 00:14:02,615 Tiniest movement in the trees. 257 00:14:04,680 --> 00:14:06,535 But there's no mistaking 258 00:14:06,560 --> 00:14:08,535 that this is now... 259 00:14:08,560 --> 00:14:11,175 intense spring sunlight. 260 00:14:12,560 --> 00:14:14,855 Over 80 years ago, my father, 261 00:14:14,880 --> 00:14:18,055 who might well have been killed had he remained in Spain, 262 00:14:18,080 --> 00:14:20,375 walked in defeat and despair 263 00:14:20,400 --> 00:14:22,015 through these mountains, 264 00:14:22,040 --> 00:14:24,855 which oddly now evoke memories of my childhood. 265 00:14:25,960 --> 00:14:28,815 A little picture postcard of... 266 00:14:28,840 --> 00:14:31,135 the Catalonian Pyrenees. 267 00:14:32,360 --> 00:14:35,295 A little village nestling so quietly 268 00:14:35,320 --> 00:14:39,055 beneath those enormous black and white peaks. 269 00:14:42,760 --> 00:14:44,415 When I was nine years old, 270 00:14:44,440 --> 00:14:49,295 my parents sent me on my own to Spain for the second time, 271 00:14:49,320 --> 00:14:52,535 and the uncle with whom I was staying took me 272 00:14:52,560 --> 00:14:55,855 to a village which was where his parents-in-law lived, 273 00:14:55,880 --> 00:14:57,535 and this reminds me of it. 274 00:14:57,560 --> 00:14:59,775 It was no bigger than this, and for a month, 275 00:14:59,800 --> 00:15:04,095 my world was confined to a small group of buildings like that 276 00:15:04,120 --> 00:15:06,735 and at that age, it doesn't matter, 277 00:15:06,760 --> 00:15:08,135 and you don't think about it. 278 00:15:09,160 --> 00:15:11,495 Back in London, as I grew older, 279 00:15:11,520 --> 00:15:13,535 I was in the suburbs, 280 00:15:13,560 --> 00:15:17,575 and I yearned for the beating heart of the city, 281 00:15:17,600 --> 00:15:21,375 and I moved into the very centre of the metropolis, 282 00:15:21,400 --> 00:15:23,935 and that has been my life ever since. 283 00:15:27,920 --> 00:15:29,935 While I craved excitement, 284 00:15:29,960 --> 00:15:32,535 some find solace in a more peaceful 285 00:15:32,560 --> 00:15:34,215 and slower pace of life. 286 00:15:36,760 --> 00:15:38,215 I'm heading downhill 287 00:15:38,240 --> 00:15:39,935 to explore the gentle terrain 288 00:15:39,960 --> 00:15:41,815 of the Emporda Plain. 289 00:15:41,840 --> 00:15:44,175 This area has a tradition of wine-making 290 00:15:44,200 --> 00:15:46,855 dating back to the 6th century BC. 291 00:15:48,000 --> 00:15:49,615 From the 1960s, 292 00:15:49,640 --> 00:15:51,615 many vineyard owners in the area 293 00:15:51,640 --> 00:15:53,495 were lured away to the coast, 294 00:15:53,520 --> 00:15:55,095 as tourism boomed. 295 00:15:56,240 --> 00:15:57,895 But in recent years, 296 00:15:57,920 --> 00:16:00,735 a new generation of winemakers has moved in 297 00:16:00,760 --> 00:16:02,855 to revive old traditions. 298 00:16:03,840 --> 00:16:06,295 Just outside the tiny village of Rabos, 299 00:16:06,320 --> 00:16:08,895 I'm meeting jordi Esteve Xifra, 300 00:16:08,920 --> 00:16:12,135 who nine years ago left city life to produce wine. 301 00:16:13,200 --> 00:16:16,455 Jordi, what was it that brought you into making wine? 302 00:16:16,480 --> 00:16:18,895 I was born in Girona 40 years ago, 303 00:16:18,920 --> 00:16:23,495 but my great-grandparents was born here, 304 00:16:23,520 --> 00:16:28,015 so I make, like, a return to the roots of the family. 305 00:16:28,040 --> 00:16:30,215 Did they live off the land, your grandparents? 306 00:16:30,240 --> 00:16:34,815 Yeah! 50, 100 years ago, everybody has a vineyard, has olive trees. 307 00:16:34,840 --> 00:16:37,775 Through here, all that mountains was vineyards. 308 00:16:37,800 --> 00:16:40,455 So you absolutely feel 309 00:16:40,480 --> 00:16:43,095 a genetic connection which has brought you back 310 00:16:43,120 --> 00:16:45,255 to your grandparents' roots? Of course, 311 00:16:45,280 --> 00:16:47,255 of course, and I arrive here 312 00:16:47,280 --> 00:16:51,575 in the same mountain that saw my family born here 313 00:16:51,600 --> 00:16:53,815 100 years ago, so, yeah. 314 00:16:53,840 --> 00:16:57,135 My grandparents, my father... 315 00:16:57,160 --> 00:16:59,815 were from a small village in Castilla, 316 00:16:59,840 --> 00:17:01,375 but a very historic one. 317 00:17:01,400 --> 00:17:04,015 It's called Madrigal de las Altas Torres. 318 00:17:04,040 --> 00:17:07,095 I've never... I've never wanted to go back to my father's village life, 319 00:17:07,120 --> 00:17:10,215 but nonetheless, I've been drawn back to Spain 320 00:17:10,240 --> 00:17:13,175 again and again like a powerful magnet. Nice, nice. 321 00:17:13,200 --> 00:17:16,055 So have you been involved in restoration? 322 00:17:16,080 --> 00:17:18,255 Was this a vineyard when you found it? 323 00:17:18,280 --> 00:17:20,535 Yeah, I found it 2016, 324 00:17:20,560 --> 00:17:22,215 in small vineyards. 325 00:17:22,240 --> 00:17:25,055 It's difficult to work with big tractors, 326 00:17:25,080 --> 00:17:27,215 so it's by hand, you know, 327 00:17:27,240 --> 00:17:29,855 fertilisation, working the soil, 328 00:17:29,880 --> 00:17:32,415 replant the plants that... 329 00:17:32,440 --> 00:17:36,055 they are cited. So it's step by step, 330 00:17:36,080 --> 00:17:37,855 it's a slow rhythm. 331 00:17:37,880 --> 00:17:40,175 You cannot go faster, 332 00:17:40,200 --> 00:17:43,895 and in the world that everything is so fast, 333 00:17:43,920 --> 00:17:47,135 I love that, because it's like, relax, 334 00:17:47,160 --> 00:17:49,775 wait and see, and work every clay hard. 335 00:17:49,800 --> 00:17:51,495 You've come from the city, Girona. 336 00:17:51,520 --> 00:17:53,495 This is happening more generally, at least here, 337 00:17:53,520 --> 00:17:56,935 a return from the city to the village, to the country. Why? 338 00:17:56,960 --> 00:17:59,215 Er it, it is a... it is a change, 339 00:17:59,240 --> 00:18:02,735 it is a thing that I think it's, like, ten years ago, 340 00:18:02,760 --> 00:18:04,695 it is starting. 341 00:18:04,720 --> 00:18:09,455 It is with connection with... a slow life, 342 00:18:09,480 --> 00:18:11,775 you know, slow food, a return to the past, 343 00:18:11,800 --> 00:18:16,615 and I think the people want more connection with the nature, 344 00:18:16,640 --> 00:18:19,775 with the sun, the wind, the rain. 345 00:18:19,800 --> 00:18:22,415 We need to spend more time outside. 346 00:18:22,440 --> 00:18:25,055 Well, shall we see what you do with the grapes? 347 00:18:25,080 --> 00:18:26,495 Of course, let's go. 348 00:18:40,520 --> 00:18:42,855 Jordi, what a beautiful room! 349 00:18:42,880 --> 00:18:45,055 OK, thank you. Yeah, it's a new space. 350 00:18:45,080 --> 00:18:48,095 It's like being outside and inside at the same time, 351 00:18:48,120 --> 00:18:49,615 with wonderful views. 352 00:18:52,960 --> 00:18:56,775 After breathing new life into this 20-acre vineyard, 353 00:18:56,800 --> 00:19:00,175 jordi now creates a range of nine organic wines 354 00:19:00,200 --> 00:19:02,335 specific to this region. 355 00:19:02,360 --> 00:19:04,255 OK, that is white wine, 356 00:19:04,280 --> 00:19:05,935 so minimal intervention, 357 00:19:05,960 --> 00:19:08,815 do not add nothing into the wine. 358 00:19:08,840 --> 00:19:11,975 So then you have a rustic character 359 00:19:12,000 --> 00:19:16,775 that gives an idea how the wines was in the past. 360 00:19:16,800 --> 00:19:18,135 So the... 361 00:19:18,160 --> 00:19:20,975 the wine is very dark for a white wine, 362 00:19:21,000 --> 00:19:23,495 and maybe a little cloudy as well, 363 00:19:23,520 --> 00:19:26,255 so this is not the sort of wine that I'm used to seeing 364 00:19:26,280 --> 00:19:28,095 in a wine shop or in a restaurant. 365 00:19:28,120 --> 00:19:31,215 That all colours that you see is the... 366 00:19:31,240 --> 00:19:33,455 the authentic colours of the wine, 367 00:19:33,480 --> 00:19:35,655 you know, it's a little bit oxidated, 368 00:19:35,680 --> 00:19:39,255 a little bit cloudy, because we do not filter the wine. 369 00:19:42,160 --> 00:19:43,215 ASPIRATING SLURPING 370 00:19:44,760 --> 00:19:46,095 Gosh. 371 00:19:46,120 --> 00:19:48,575 No, that is a lovely wine and it does... 372 00:19:49,760 --> 00:19:51,975 It does taste very, very natural, 373 00:19:52,000 --> 00:19:53,775 very straightforward. 374 00:19:53,800 --> 00:19:55,175 That's fantastic. 375 00:19:55,200 --> 00:19:59,455 It's one thing to be a romantic, and to leave the city 376 00:19:59,480 --> 00:20:02,015 and go back to the countryside... 377 00:20:02,040 --> 00:20:04,055 but you have to live. 378 00:20:04,080 --> 00:20:07,135 And are you able to live from your wines? 379 00:20:07,160 --> 00:20:09,935 Yeah, I'm a very romantic person. 380 00:20:09,960 --> 00:20:11,615 When I'm working in the vineyard, 381 00:20:11,640 --> 00:20:16,455 I'm thinking, the person who will open the bottle, you know? 382 00:20:16,480 --> 00:20:18,895 But I have to organise the business. 383 00:20:18,920 --> 00:20:21,575 So now, I'm improving in that part, 384 00:20:21,600 --> 00:20:22,655 and... 385 00:20:22,680 --> 00:20:25,255 and yes, now...| have the balance. 386 00:20:25,280 --> 00:20:26,895 Good! 387 00:20:26,920 --> 00:20:29,695 So what have you discovered so far 388 00:20:29,720 --> 00:20:31,575 about the secret of life? 389 00:20:31,600 --> 00:20:34,335 What is the secret of being happy in life, do you think, now? 390 00:20:34,360 --> 00:20:36,655 For me, in my own case, 391 00:20:36,680 --> 00:20:39,815 is to live the clay, 392 00:20:39,840 --> 00:20:41,855 is to live in the present, 393 00:20:41,880 --> 00:20:43,575 reconnect with the fields, 394 00:20:43,600 --> 00:20:45,735 with the plants, makes... 395 00:20:45,760 --> 00:20:47,415 It calms me down. 396 00:20:47,440 --> 00:20:49,575 Well, you are very, very lucky 397 00:20:49,600 --> 00:20:51,495 to do things that you love. 398 00:20:51,520 --> 00:20:52,855 Yeah. Cheers. 399 00:20:52,880 --> 00:20:54,055 Cheers. 400 00:20:55,120 --> 00:20:59,135 Jordi has returned to his ancestors' rural way of life. 401 00:20:59,160 --> 00:21:00,935 He's at one with nature, 402 00:21:00,960 --> 00:21:03,375 and I'm pleased that it's bringing him joy. 403 00:21:15,520 --> 00:21:18,255 My route is taking me ever eastward, 404 00:21:18,280 --> 00:21:20,975 across the Emporda Plain towards the coast. 405 00:21:29,440 --> 00:21:32,415 Being now so close to the Mediterranean Sea, 406 00:21:32,440 --> 00:21:36,175 the landscape is once more familiar to me. 407 00:21:37,200 --> 00:21:39,575 Behind me, cork trees, and here, 408 00:21:39,600 --> 00:21:41,535 vineyards on the gentle slopes. 409 00:21:42,600 --> 00:21:45,215 And the only thing that I'm not used to 410 00:21:45,240 --> 00:21:49,095 is the icy breeze descending from the snowy peaks 411 00:21:49,120 --> 00:21:50,775 just beyond that ridge. 412 00:21:56,080 --> 00:21:59,175 They say that spending time surrounded by nature 413 00:21:59,200 --> 00:22:01,655 can be good for the soul. 414 00:22:01,680 --> 00:22:02,855 Yet even in somewhere 415 00:22:02,880 --> 00:22:04,655 as remote and wild as the Pyrenees, 416 00:22:04,680 --> 00:22:06,775 it cannot be taken for granted. 417 00:22:10,240 --> 00:22:13,935 When the future of the native Hermann's tortoise was under threat, 418 00:22:13,960 --> 00:22:15,495 40 years ago... 419 00:22:15,520 --> 00:22:16,495 SPEAKING SPANISH 420 00:22:17,600 --> 00:22:19,615 ...Joan Budo set up this sanctuary 421 00:22:19,640 --> 00:22:22,095 to save these littlest of Pyreneans. 422 00:22:22,120 --> 00:22:25,375 Porque esta en peligro? Why is the tortoise in danger? 423 00:22:25,400 --> 00:22:26,655 SPEAKING SPANISH 424 00:22:50,080 --> 00:22:52,735 Si, si, 130 hay. 130 tortoises! 425 00:23:01,440 --> 00:23:03,255 What a beautiful creature! 426 00:23:03,280 --> 00:23:05,415 Una hembra. Una hembra, it's a female. 427 00:23:05,440 --> 00:23:07,055 Adulta? Adulta, una hembra adult a. 428 00:23:07,080 --> 00:23:11,455 Es eltamano Maximo que pueden tener las Tortugas adult as de esa especie. 429 00:23:11,480 --> 00:23:13,095 The maximum size they reach. Si. 430 00:23:13,120 --> 00:23:14,935 Esto es tipico? This is typical? 431 00:23:25,600 --> 00:23:30,015 The sanctuary is supported by the Catalonian Environmental Department, 432 00:23:30,040 --> 00:23:32,335 and the Albera Natural Park, 433 00:23:32,360 --> 00:23:34,855 and began a breeding program me 28 years ago. 434 00:23:36,040 --> 00:23:37,535 Joan is taking me to see 435 00:23:37,560 --> 00:23:39,055 some of their newest arrivals. 436 00:23:42,200 --> 00:23:44,455 Here we have to be very careful. 437 00:23:46,120 --> 00:23:47,495 Could be tortoises... 438 00:23:50,640 --> 00:23:51,735 Ah! Ah. 439 00:23:54,720 --> 00:23:56,135 Ah, que bueno! 440 00:23:56,160 --> 00:23:57,495 Hello! 441 00:23:57,520 --> 00:23:59,015 Hello, hello. 442 00:23:59,040 --> 00:24:01,815 Lovely, tiny tortoises, 443 00:24:01,840 --> 00:24:03,975 and quite active. 444 00:24:04,000 --> 00:24:05,295 The sun is on them, 445 00:24:05,320 --> 00:24:07,775 and they're warming up in my hands as well, 446 00:24:07,800 --> 00:24:09,455 so they're poking their little heads out, 447 00:24:09,480 --> 00:24:10,815 and moving their little feet. 448 00:24:11,840 --> 00:24:13,535 Aren't you beautiful? 449 00:24:13,560 --> 00:24:15,775 How old are these two, Joan? Que edad tiene estos... 450 00:24:19,840 --> 00:24:21,535 18 months, my goodness. 451 00:24:22,600 --> 00:24:26,095 Que poco crecen, que lento crecen! Si. How slow they are growing. 452 00:24:45,480 --> 00:24:47,015 Hoo-hoo-hoo...! 453 00:24:47,040 --> 00:24:48,735 Y este especie, donde se encuentra? 454 00:24:48,760 --> 00:24:50,695 Where do you find this species? 455 00:25:00,280 --> 00:25:02,575 There's a population over the other side in France, 456 00:25:02,600 --> 00:25:04,815 there's a small population in northern Italy, 457 00:25:04,840 --> 00:25:06,375 but they're all small populations, 458 00:25:06,400 --> 00:25:10,535 and so this lovely animal is in danger of extinction. 459 00:25:18,320 --> 00:25:22,655 Joan says in Catalonia the tortoise is now very well protected by law, 460 00:25:22,680 --> 00:25:25,095 and increasingly, people are understanding 461 00:25:25,120 --> 00:25:28,335 that the proper place for the tortoise is in nature, 462 00:25:28,360 --> 00:25:30,615 and not as a pet in people's houses. 463 00:25:32,320 --> 00:25:35,135 3,500 tortoises born here 464 00:25:35,160 --> 00:25:37,375 have been released into the wild, 465 00:25:37,400 --> 00:25:39,415 and researchers are learning more 466 00:25:39,440 --> 00:25:42,335 about how they behave in their natural habitat. 467 00:25:42,360 --> 00:25:44,735 Joan says this tortoise was found by a member of the public 468 00:25:44,760 --> 00:25:46,295 on a roadway. 469 00:25:46,320 --> 00:25:49,055 They will register it and microchip it. 470 00:25:49,080 --> 00:25:52,015 They've already micro chipped 1,000 tortoises, 471 00:25:52,040 --> 00:25:54,895 which means that when they find them again, they have a very good idea 472 00:25:54,920 --> 00:25:56,855 about their ecology, 473 00:25:56,880 --> 00:25:58,695 and a little bit about their life history 474 00:25:58,720 --> 00:26:00,095 and their movements. 475 00:26:01,640 --> 00:26:03,815 So this is the tiny microchip 476 00:26:03,840 --> 00:26:05,935 which was taken up inside the syringe. 477 00:26:08,960 --> 00:26:11,695 It's going to go into the shoulder 478 00:26:11,720 --> 00:26:13,695 just to the left of the head. 479 00:26:13,720 --> 00:26:14,735 He's pushing... 480 00:26:15,840 --> 00:26:17,415 So he now has his microchip. 481 00:26:18,480 --> 00:26:20,655 The tortoise hasn't reacted at all, 482 00:26:20,680 --> 00:26:24,935 and now we need to know the number of the microchip. Si. 483 00:26:24,960 --> 00:26:26,775 And off she goes into the wild. 484 00:26:27,840 --> 00:26:30,055 Protecting these native creatures 485 00:26:30,080 --> 00:26:32,775 takes both patience and commitment... 486 00:26:32,800 --> 00:26:34,175 Hasta mega. Hasta mega. 487 00:26:35,240 --> 00:26:38,175 ...and Joan has created a legacy that will endure. 488 00:26:51,640 --> 00:26:53,455 The sun is stronger, I think. 489 00:26:53,480 --> 00:26:55,975 The Mediterranean is at hand. 490 00:26:56,000 --> 00:26:59,535 Everything tells me we're getting towards the destination. 491 00:26:59,560 --> 00:27:03,215 I'm on the final leg of my great Pyrenean adventure, 492 00:27:03,240 --> 00:27:06,415 walking stretches of this wonderful mountain range. 493 00:27:07,520 --> 00:27:08,495 Huh. 494 00:27:09,720 --> 00:27:13,255 A tree has blown down clean across the track. 495 00:27:13,280 --> 00:27:14,735 What a beautiful tree. 496 00:27:16,200 --> 00:27:18,815 No, I can't climb through it, can't climb through it. 497 00:27:21,960 --> 00:27:23,055 GROANS 498 00:27:23,080 --> 00:27:24,455 See whether I can go around... 499 00:27:25,920 --> 00:27:27,535 Yeah... Oh! 500 00:27:27,560 --> 00:27:29,215 There's a pathway through here I think. 501 00:27:34,920 --> 00:27:36,615 Oh, look at that! 502 00:27:38,000 --> 00:27:40,695 I think this might be a cork oak, 503 00:27:40,720 --> 00:27:45,375 and this is the bark that is used to make cork. 504 00:27:46,760 --> 00:27:48,895 Very clean break. 505 00:27:48,920 --> 00:27:50,095 Sheesh! 506 00:27:50,120 --> 00:27:51,935 Going to be quite a job moving that. 507 00:27:54,440 --> 00:27:57,215 But there's no stopping 508 00:27:57,240 --> 00:27:59,375 the intrepid pilgrim! 509 00:28:02,800 --> 00:28:05,295 Away from the usual comforts of my life, 510 00:28:05,320 --> 00:28:08,055 this challenge has been a liberation, 511 00:28:08,080 --> 00:28:10,975 and the people that I have met, an inspiration. 512 00:28:19,120 --> 00:28:21,295 My route has brought me all the way 513 00:28:21,320 --> 00:28:23,855 from Spain's northern Atlantic coast. 514 00:28:32,040 --> 00:28:33,375 Ah... 515 00:28:34,400 --> 00:28:35,375 SIGHS 516 00:28:36,880 --> 00:28:38,415 Onward. 517 00:28:38,440 --> 00:28:42,815 And now from this Serra De Rodes ridge of the Pyrenees, 518 00:28:42,840 --> 00:28:45,575 at last I glimpse the Mediterranean. 519 00:28:50,000 --> 00:28:51,775 This spectacular peninsula, 520 00:28:51,800 --> 00:28:53,415 the Cap de Creus, 521 00:28:53,440 --> 00:28:56,295 is the most easterly point on the Spanish mainland. 522 00:28:56,320 --> 00:28:58,575 Covering more than 50 square miles, 523 00:28:58,600 --> 00:29:01,335 it's protected as a natural park. 524 00:29:04,320 --> 00:29:09,175 A brief stroll through the ruins of this mediaeval village, 525 00:29:09,200 --> 00:29:12,055 abandoned since the time of the Black Death, 526 00:29:12,080 --> 00:29:15,535 brings me to my first view of sea 527 00:29:15,560 --> 00:29:17,455 since the Atlantic, and what a contrast. 528 00:29:17,480 --> 00:29:20,415 An enclosed sea, and so blue, 529 00:29:20,440 --> 00:29:23,055 under this Mediterranean sky, 530 00:29:23,080 --> 00:29:26,495 and what a landscape of headlands! 531 00:29:26,520 --> 00:29:29,295 Joining me on this penultimate stage of my walk 532 00:29:29,320 --> 00:29:32,095 is local guide Merce Don at. 533 00:29:32,120 --> 00:29:34,615 Hello, Merce. Hello, Michael. 534 00:29:34,640 --> 00:29:37,735 What a pleasure to see you, and what a panorama! 535 00:29:37,760 --> 00:29:40,935 A very prominent monastery here. What is that? 536 00:29:40,960 --> 00:29:44,295 This is the San Pere de Rodes Monastery, 537 00:29:44,320 --> 00:29:47,055 a Romanesque monastery from the 9th century 538 00:29:47,080 --> 00:29:50,375 that was built by three monks 539 00:29:50,400 --> 00:29:54,215 to keep relics from St Peter of Rome. 540 00:29:54,240 --> 00:29:56,015 Relics of St Peter? 541 00:29:56,040 --> 00:29:59,615 I mean, they have must been extremely valuable. Yes! 542 00:29:59,640 --> 00:30:01,815 Rome was attacked, 543 00:30:01,840 --> 00:30:05,615 and the Pope decided to split the relics 544 00:30:05,640 --> 00:30:07,415 around the Mediterranean Sea. 545 00:30:07,440 --> 00:30:09,095 With important relics, 546 00:30:09,120 --> 00:30:11,295 this was presumably a place of pilgrimage, 547 00:30:11,320 --> 00:30:14,135 and they would bring money as part of buying their penance, 548 00:30:14,160 --> 00:30:15,935 their forgiveness. Exactly. 549 00:30:15,960 --> 00:30:20,535 Ancl when this monastery in 1930 become a UNESCO site, 550 00:30:20,560 --> 00:30:24,775 they found many coins in golden and silver, 551 00:30:24,800 --> 00:30:27,815 from all over the Mediterranean countries. 552 00:30:28,960 --> 00:30:31,535 And are you from here? Is this where you come from? 553 00:30:31,560 --> 00:30:33,375 Yes, I'm born in Cadaques, 554 00:30:33,400 --> 00:30:37,615 and my grandfather born in the Valley of Santa Creus 555 00:30:37,640 --> 00:30:41,455 just behind these villages that you can see on the coast. 556 00:30:41,480 --> 00:30:43,855 My grandparents, they were farmers around, 557 00:30:43,880 --> 00:30:46,655 they were producing wine, oil, 558 00:30:46,680 --> 00:30:49,495 but I start to study abroad, 559 00:30:49,520 --> 00:30:51,975 and then I wanted really to come back 560 00:30:52,000 --> 00:30:54,775 when I had my first child, Pau, 561 00:30:54,800 --> 00:30:58,655 and to show or to live the same experience I had 562 00:30:58,680 --> 00:31:02,975 when I was a child in this beautiful place. 563 00:31:03,000 --> 00:31:06,615 Describe that lifestyle. I play between sea and mountains, 564 00:31:06,640 --> 00:31:09,215 and I was climbing a tree or I was fishing, 565 00:31:09,240 --> 00:31:12,135 and eating directly the fish from the sea, 566 00:31:12,160 --> 00:31:14,935 er, swim, and that was amazing, 567 00:31:14,960 --> 00:31:17,695 to have this little community, 568 00:31:17,720 --> 00:31:19,615 so alive, 569 00:31:19,640 --> 00:31:21,975 so, so wild. 570 00:31:22,000 --> 00:31:25,295 Shall we take a little walk and get an even higher view? 571 00:31:25,320 --> 00:31:27,735 Yeah. I would love to show you. Good. Yeah. 572 00:31:33,360 --> 00:31:36,095 Here there is a plant that for me it's special. 573 00:31:36,120 --> 00:31:37,935 Thyme, right? Oh, thyme. 574 00:31:37,960 --> 00:31:41,255 Ancl it blooms at the end of March, beginning April... 575 00:31:41,280 --> 00:31:42,695 Let me smell it. 576 00:31:43,760 --> 00:31:46,615 Lovely. Yeah. Beautiful plant. 577 00:31:46,640 --> 00:31:48,295 What could it be used for? 578 00:31:48,320 --> 00:31:52,935 Erm, it can be very useful if you have headache, 579 00:31:52,960 --> 00:31:55,895 stomach ache... For the skin, it's very good. 580 00:31:55,920 --> 00:32:00,135 In winter when we feel a little bit down, or bad mood, 581 00:32:00,160 --> 00:32:03,415 with a soup of ferigola, of thyme, 582 00:32:03,440 --> 00:32:06,735 and it makes you strong and happy. 583 00:32:06,760 --> 00:32:09,695 Er, take care because it's quite steep here. 584 00:32:09,720 --> 00:32:11,335 If you want to take my arm? 585 00:32:11,360 --> 00:32:12,455 Let me try. Yes. 586 00:32:12,480 --> 00:32:15,135 I think I'm... OK. OK, OK. Oh, just... 587 00:32:15,160 --> 00:32:16,855 Here we go. Yes, exactly, very good. 588 00:32:16,880 --> 00:32:18,735 Thank you very much. 589 00:32:18,760 --> 00:32:20,975 Up we go. Yeah, you're going to be fine, Michael. 590 00:32:21,000 --> 00:32:22,495 Going to be fine here, yeah. 591 00:32:22,520 --> 00:32:24,455 It's like little steps, you know? 592 00:32:24,480 --> 00:32:27,535 Normally, when you climb like this, 593 00:32:27,560 --> 00:32:30,295 it's much easier than going down! 594 00:32:33,680 --> 00:32:35,295 Triumph! 595 00:32:36,720 --> 00:32:38,215 Ah! 596 00:32:38,240 --> 00:32:39,895 And what a view! 597 00:32:39,920 --> 00:32:41,615 Not only out at the sea 598 00:32:41,640 --> 00:32:44,855 but also the inland, and the view of the Pyrenees. 599 00:32:44,880 --> 00:32:47,495 It's a fantastic perspective from here, isn't it? 600 00:32:47,520 --> 00:32:50,815 All the way over to the monastery here on our right. 601 00:32:50,840 --> 00:32:53,015 And you can see the village so well here, 602 00:32:53,040 --> 00:32:56,455 you can see the gate through which the pilgrims, I suppose, entered. 603 00:32:56,480 --> 00:33:00,695 Can you imagine the emotion, the sense of exhilaration 604 00:33:00,720 --> 00:33:02,935 having travel led hundreds of kilometres, maybe? 605 00:33:02,960 --> 00:33:05,775 Exactly, and walking through the Pyrenees 606 00:33:05,800 --> 00:33:08,895 with some friends, or through Spain, or by boat. 607 00:33:08,920 --> 00:33:10,095 They reach the village, 608 00:33:10,120 --> 00:33:14,335 and they're within sight of their destination and their goal. 609 00:33:14,360 --> 00:33:16,735 Ooh, my goodness, I'm almost blowing off this mountain here. 610 00:33:16,760 --> 00:33:18,575 Er... Ahh! 611 00:33:18,600 --> 00:33:19,615 LAUGHTER 612 00:33:19,640 --> 00:33:21,175 Such a wind, goodness! 613 00:33:21,200 --> 00:33:22,215 Yeah! 614 00:33:22,240 --> 00:33:24,175 When you were away, 615 00:33:24,200 --> 00:33:26,575 what was it that you missed about this place? 616 00:33:28,280 --> 00:33:31,295 How you call... It's a very... What is it in Spanish? 617 00:33:31,320 --> 00:33:35,535 Erm, it's la... La alegria. The... The joy. 618 00:33:35,560 --> 00:33:38,015 The joy. The happiness. The happiness. 619 00:33:38,040 --> 00:33:41,455 I first came with my mother, when I was two. 620 00:33:41,480 --> 00:33:45,135 I don't remember very much, except that I hated the food. 621 00:33:46,400 --> 00:33:50,615 I think in those days the Spanish used to eat a lot of chickpeas, 622 00:33:50,640 --> 00:33:53,015 and as a child I found them very indigestible. 623 00:33:53,040 --> 00:33:56,815 So the only thing I would eat on my first visit was custard, 624 00:33:56,840 --> 00:33:58,175 natillas. 625 00:33:58,200 --> 00:34:01,015 But my parents then sent me back when I was eight. 626 00:34:01,040 --> 00:34:03,895 Some of the things about Spain were delightfully old-fashioned. 627 00:34:03,920 --> 00:34:07,015 For instance, we would go picnicking in a horse and cart. 628 00:34:07,040 --> 00:34:08,695 But everything has changed so much. 629 00:34:08,720 --> 00:34:10,375 I mean, not just the living standard 630 00:34:10,400 --> 00:34:13,215 and you've become incredibly socially liberal. 631 00:34:13,240 --> 00:34:17,655 Yeah, perhaps also because of this connection with the Mediterranean, 632 00:34:17,680 --> 00:34:20,415 because, no? The tourism we have, too. 633 00:34:20,440 --> 00:34:23,655 I was smiling because I remember, again, when I was a child, 634 00:34:23,680 --> 00:34:26,575 down here on the Costa Brava, in the early '60s, 635 00:34:26,600 --> 00:34:30,575 British female tourists were arrested here for wearing bikinis, 636 00:34:30,600 --> 00:34:33,535 and there was an old joke that a Guardia Civil, 637 00:34:33,560 --> 00:34:35,775 a policeman stopped a woman in a bikini and said, 638 00:34:35,800 --> 00:34:38,455 we only allow one piece bathing suites here, 639 00:34:38,480 --> 00:34:40,615 and she said, which part shall I take off? 640 00:34:40,640 --> 00:34:42,095 LAUGHTER 641 00:34:57,360 --> 00:34:59,895 It's always struck me as odd 642 00:34:59,920 --> 00:35:02,295 that I was able to come to Spain 643 00:35:02,320 --> 00:35:05,015 when my father was not able to do so. 644 00:35:05,040 --> 00:35:06,695 Imagine that. 645 00:35:07,880 --> 00:35:11,455 So, in a way I was, with my brothers, 646 00:35:11,480 --> 00:35:14,855 we were his representatives in Spain 647 00:35:14,880 --> 00:35:17,015 and I think that... 648 00:35:17,040 --> 00:35:19,055 that idea has always stuck with me, 649 00:35:19,080 --> 00:35:21,895 and I have seen how the inner life of Spain 650 00:35:21,920 --> 00:35:25,735 has been released with the end of dictatorship, 651 00:35:25,760 --> 00:35:28,415 and how much the place has changed 652 00:35:28,440 --> 00:35:32,015 as Spain has maybe rediscovered its inner joy, 653 00:35:32,040 --> 00:35:34,575 and certainly rediscovered its freedom. 654 00:35:43,000 --> 00:35:45,295 As the evening beckons, 655 00:35:45,320 --> 00:35:48,375 I'm looking for some rest and restoration. 656 00:35:48,400 --> 00:35:49,815 DOG BARKS 657 00:35:49,840 --> 00:35:52,695 And I've been told of somewhere that sounds perfect. 658 00:35:59,800 --> 00:36:04,855 A Casa Rural is somewhere where you get bed, breakfast and dinner, 659 00:36:04,880 --> 00:36:08,735 subsidised by the local region in order to promote tourism, 660 00:36:08,760 --> 00:36:10,695 and normally you have a lovely time, 661 00:36:10,720 --> 00:36:12,935 because you get to meet the family, 662 00:36:12,960 --> 00:36:17,255 but my goodness, rarely do you get anything quite as beautiful 663 00:36:17,280 --> 00:36:19,375 and historic as this. 664 00:36:23,880 --> 00:36:26,055 Thanks, I'm Michael. Casa Castillo. 665 00:36:26,080 --> 00:36:28,935 Casa Castillo, he says it's a house and a castle. 666 00:36:28,960 --> 00:36:30,815 Un castillo del siglo trece. 667 00:36:30,840 --> 00:36:32,135 Oh. 668 00:36:32,160 --> 00:36:34,015 Ahi esta la apertura por la defensa. 669 00:36:34,040 --> 00:36:37,175 13th century castle, and there's a slit there to fire arrows. Si. 670 00:36:42,640 --> 00:36:43,855 Anda! 671 00:36:51,920 --> 00:36:52,895 Mm. 672 00:37:02,840 --> 00:37:04,135 Gracias. 673 00:37:04,160 --> 00:37:05,855 In the Casa's cosy kitchen, 674 00:37:05,880 --> 00:37:09,775 Narcis has prepared me a superb Pyrenean supper. 675 00:37:09,800 --> 00:37:12,295 ...que no lo hacemos, lo compramos, 676 00:37:12,320 --> 00:37:13,935 y el aceite de Oliva, 677 00:37:13,960 --> 00:37:15,415 y despues, el vino. 678 00:37:16,480 --> 00:37:20,335 So it's all pretty much home grown. 679 00:37:20,360 --> 00:37:23,175 Er, tomatoes, they have their own pigs, 680 00:37:23,200 --> 00:37:25,535 so these are the products from the pig, 681 00:37:25,560 --> 00:37:27,975 they don't make their own bread, 682 00:37:28,000 --> 00:37:30,335 but of course they do make their own olive oil. 683 00:37:45,800 --> 00:37:49,295 This journey has certainly been putting my arthritic hip to the test 684 00:37:49,320 --> 00:37:51,095 and yet... 685 00:37:51,120 --> 00:37:55,335 I find myself in no pain whatsoever. 686 00:37:56,560 --> 00:37:58,135 I wonder why. 687 00:37:59,440 --> 00:38:00,655 Mm. 688 00:38:22,080 --> 00:38:25,535 My Spring adventure through the Spanish and French Pyrenees 689 00:38:25,560 --> 00:38:27,855 has brought me over 300 miles 690 00:38:27,880 --> 00:38:30,575 to reach Catalonia's Cap de Creus, 691 00:38:30,600 --> 00:38:33,375 mainland Spain's most easterly point. 692 00:38:48,240 --> 00:38:50,815 It's spectacular from on high, 693 00:38:50,840 --> 00:38:54,175 and I'm told that its protected, rocky coastline 694 00:38:54,200 --> 00:38:57,295 is still more impressive when it surrounds you. 695 00:39:04,160 --> 00:39:06,375 As I left Hondarribia, 696 00:39:06,400 --> 00:39:10,615 I noticed that the mountains rose directly from the Atlantic, 697 00:39:10,640 --> 00:39:13,255 and those same Pyrenees have continued, 698 00:39:13,280 --> 00:39:16,975 and now they drop into the Mediterranean. 699 00:39:17,000 --> 00:39:20,775 The Pyrenees carry the walker from ocean to sea, 700 00:39:20,800 --> 00:39:22,775 from coast to coast. 701 00:39:27,800 --> 00:39:30,775 Just around this headland, in the town of Cadaques, 702 00:39:30,800 --> 00:39:32,855 these craggy coves and inlets 703 00:39:32,880 --> 00:39:35,775 fired the imagination of its most famous resident. 704 00:39:36,920 --> 00:39:39,575 I first came across Salvador Dali, 705 00:39:39,600 --> 00:39:41,815 the surrealist painter, 706 00:39:41,840 --> 00:39:44,415 through his collaboration with Alfred Hitchcock 707 00:39:44,440 --> 00:39:46,775 in the movie Spellbound. 708 00:39:46,800 --> 00:39:50,455 There's a dream scene designed by Dali, 709 00:39:50,480 --> 00:39:53,655 with curtains that are covered in human eyes. 710 00:39:53,680 --> 00:39:55,375 Very bizarre. 711 00:39:55,400 --> 00:39:57,575 And he was such an extraordinary figure, 712 00:39:57,600 --> 00:40:00,095 and then I found out that he was from Spain, 713 00:40:00,120 --> 00:40:03,375 and he's very much associated with this peninsula, 714 00:40:03,400 --> 00:40:06,095 and so, with my non-artistic eye, 715 00:40:06,120 --> 00:40:08,735 I've been trying to think what would attract the artist to here. 716 00:40:08,760 --> 00:40:11,295 Well, of course, the green of the vegetation 717 00:40:11,320 --> 00:40:16,255 is constantly interrupted by riotous geology. 718 00:40:17,400 --> 00:40:19,775 The rocks here are unruly, 719 00:40:19,800 --> 00:40:23,135 and everywhere, they protrude through the greenery, 720 00:40:23,160 --> 00:40:26,335 to produce images in the imagination, at least, 721 00:40:26,360 --> 00:40:29,135 of figures, of creatures, 722 00:40:29,160 --> 00:40:32,935 in greys, but also in yellows and orange, 723 00:40:32,960 --> 00:40:36,415 and many of them overlain with lichen. 724 00:40:44,320 --> 00:40:47,095 After 12 exhilarating days, 725 00:40:47,120 --> 00:40:49,655 I finally reach my destination. 726 00:40:50,920 --> 00:40:52,895 The end is in sight. 727 00:40:52,920 --> 00:40:55,175 Down to the sea. 728 00:40:55,200 --> 00:40:57,855 That is the finishing line. 729 00:41:12,680 --> 00:41:16,095 What a beautiful view of the Mediterranean! 730 00:41:27,600 --> 00:41:29,735 And from this little promontory, 731 00:41:29,760 --> 00:41:31,895 I can look back, 732 00:41:31,920 --> 00:41:34,175 and bid farewell 733 00:41:34,200 --> 00:41:37,215 to my companions over these last four walks, 734 00:41:37,240 --> 00:41:39,175 the Pyrenees. 735 00:41:44,960 --> 00:41:47,655 Embarking on a hike at my age, 736 00:41:47,680 --> 00:41:49,535 and with an arthritic hip, 737 00:41:49,560 --> 00:41:52,095 might seem like a foolhardy thing to do. 738 00:41:52,120 --> 00:41:53,855 It's a bit sore, 739 00:41:53,880 --> 00:41:57,015 but I've made it with plenty of puff to spare. 740 00:41:57,040 --> 00:41:58,655 I can't help thinking 741 00:41:58,680 --> 00:42:00,615 that my Basque makila 742 00:42:00,640 --> 00:42:02,455 has been a great help, 743 00:42:02,480 --> 00:42:04,375 and I don't think I'll ever leave home without it. 744 00:42:05,480 --> 00:42:07,215 Completing this challenge, 745 00:42:07,240 --> 00:42:10,335 I feel both triumphant and wistful. 746 00:42:10,360 --> 00:42:12,815 Every day has been spectacular. 747 00:42:16,400 --> 00:42:18,295 Sometimes, because of the weather... 748 00:42:20,200 --> 00:42:22,055 LAUGHS AND GROANS 749 00:42:22,080 --> 00:42:25,615 But on other days, due to the views across landscapes. 750 00:42:28,560 --> 00:42:30,695 Hi, Michael! Hello! 751 00:42:30,720 --> 00:42:32,215 I've met some wonderful people... 752 00:42:32,240 --> 00:42:34,655 It looks like you have done it all your life. 753 00:42:34,680 --> 00:42:36,135 They're lovely! 754 00:42:36,160 --> 00:42:38,135 ...who've greeted me so warmly. 755 00:42:38,160 --> 00:42:41,655 I'll miss the daily adventure of making new friends. 756 00:42:41,680 --> 00:42:43,335 Muchisimas gracias. 757 00:42:43,360 --> 00:42:45,375 A votre sante, madame. A votre sante. 758 00:42:45,400 --> 00:42:48,175 Their lives are a world away from mine... 759 00:42:48,200 --> 00:42:50,015 Cheers. Cheers. 760 00:42:50,040 --> 00:42:52,615 ...but I've learned that happiness comes in many forms, 761 00:42:52,640 --> 00:42:55,535 and sometimes from the simplest things. 762 00:42:55,560 --> 00:42:59,695 I fell in love with stars when I was a child. 763 00:43:00,920 --> 00:43:02,895 Discovering the splendour of these mountains 764 00:43:02,920 --> 00:43:04,695 has been a wonder, 765 00:43:04,720 --> 00:43:07,535 and I depart enriched by them. 766 00:43:07,560 --> 00:43:10,095 Reaching the end, I feel proud, 767 00:43:10,120 --> 00:43:12,615 but on every step along the way, 768 00:43:12,640 --> 00:43:15,295 I've felt the joy of being alive. 769 00:43:16,360 --> 00:43:20,815 My brothers and I owe our existence to the Spanish Civil War. 770 00:43:22,040 --> 00:43:25,415 And I'm thinking that a story like ours 771 00:43:25,440 --> 00:43:27,975 will be told in coming decades 772 00:43:28,000 --> 00:43:31,975 by the sons and daughters of Ukrainian refugees, 773 00:43:32,000 --> 00:43:35,175 presently arriving on the shores of Britain in despair, 774 00:43:35,200 --> 00:43:37,375 as my father was, 775 00:43:37,400 --> 00:43:41,295 but who may meet and marry British partners. 776 00:43:42,560 --> 00:43:45,895 The misery of war in Europe continues, 777 00:43:45,920 --> 00:43:50,615 but fate still works its quirky magic, 778 00:43:50,640 --> 00:43:54,055 and while I've been headed on this part of my journey 779 00:43:54,080 --> 00:43:56,215 south out of the Pyrenees, 780 00:43:56,240 --> 00:43:58,255 I've been thinking about being 781 00:43:58,280 --> 00:44:00,615 the product of two nationalities, 782 00:44:00,640 --> 00:44:04,375 with one foot in Spain and one foot in Britain. 783 00:44:05,400 --> 00:44:08,615 I think my duality has been a blessing. 784 00:44:08,640 --> 00:44:10,455 It's given me... 785 00:44:10,480 --> 00:44:13,135 two cultures, two families, 786 00:44:13,160 --> 00:44:17,655 two sets of friends, two perspectives, 787 00:44:17,680 --> 00:44:21,455 and I think my saunter through life 788 00:44:21,480 --> 00:44:23,815 has been doubly enjoyable. 789 00:44:56,160 --> 00:44:58,135 Subtitles by Red Bee Media 59794

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