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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:02,040 --> 00:00:06,440 In the far north of Europe is a land steeped in myth. 2 00:00:08,160 --> 00:00:10,200 The realm of Thor... 3 00:00:11,480 --> 00:00:13,280 ..and Odin. 4 00:00:17,000 --> 00:00:19,800 From Norway's frozen wilderness... 5 00:00:22,280 --> 00:00:26,000 ..deep into magical Swedish forests... 6 00:00:28,360 --> 00:00:31,920 ..across Denmark's windswept shores... 7 00:00:33,760 --> 00:00:37,280 ..to explosive Icelandic volcanoes... 8 00:00:40,080 --> 00:00:43,080 ..Scandinavia's breathtaking landscapes... 9 00:00:47,240 --> 00:00:49,760 ..have shaped its people... 10 00:00:58,560 --> 00:01:00,920 ..and its wildlife. 11 00:01:07,160 --> 00:01:13,000 At the extremes, Scandinavia gives way to a kingdom of ice... 12 00:01:16,680 --> 00:01:20,360 ..where the long dark polar night... 13 00:01:20,360 --> 00:01:23,480 ..melts into a sleepless rush of life... 14 00:01:25,000 --> 00:01:27,520 ..under endless summer light. 15 00:01:32,160 --> 00:01:34,360 To survive here, 16 00:01:34,360 --> 00:01:39,520 animals must navigate the most dramatic seasonal shifts on Earth, 17 00:01:39,520 --> 00:01:42,560 driven by the power of the sun. 18 00:02:06,400 --> 00:02:12,320 Scandinavia's far north is in the grip of winter. 19 00:02:20,600 --> 00:02:26,040 Lonely mountains and isolated Arctic islands... 20 00:02:27,440 --> 00:02:32,160 ..are locked under the weight of snow and ice. 21 00:02:35,480 --> 00:02:39,560 These are Scandinavia's most remote places. 22 00:02:43,240 --> 00:02:48,520 Starved of sunlight in winter and plunged into the bitter cold... 23 00:02:49,760 --> 00:02:52,520 ..often reaching lows of -20C. 24 00:02:57,600 --> 00:03:01,760 There are not many creatures who can bear this long, dark season. 25 00:03:04,360 --> 00:03:10,280 But for those who stay, this is a final stronghold in a warming world. 26 00:03:27,800 --> 00:03:31,720 Winds over 100mph greet the muskoxen 27 00:03:31,720 --> 00:03:33,960 of Norway's remote mountains. 28 00:03:41,440 --> 00:03:48,680 They are a relic of the Ice Age, unchanged for over 600,000 years. 29 00:03:52,440 --> 00:03:56,760 Layers of thick fur shield them from the vicious weather. 30 00:04:05,120 --> 00:04:09,200 Herding together, they're at home in the long winter. 31 00:04:14,680 --> 00:04:19,680 But even in the gloom, the sun does not let the North forget her. 32 00:04:29,080 --> 00:04:34,640 93 million miles away, a solar storm is raging. 33 00:04:40,120 --> 00:04:44,400 Electrically charged particles burst from the sun's surface... 34 00:04:47,520 --> 00:04:49,640 ..and hurtle towards Earth. 35 00:04:59,240 --> 00:05:01,440 As they reach our planet, 36 00:05:01,440 --> 00:05:06,800 the attack is deflected towards the poles by Earth's magnetic field. 37 00:05:08,880 --> 00:05:12,200 But some particles break through to the atmosphere 38 00:05:12,200 --> 00:05:14,920 and react with gases in the sky... 39 00:05:16,520 --> 00:05:20,200 ..igniting the lights of the aurora borealis. 40 00:05:26,160 --> 00:05:31,240 Only in the darkness can they be seen in their full glory. 41 00:05:33,680 --> 00:05:39,240 Icelanders call them Nordurljos, the Dawn of the North. 42 00:05:42,680 --> 00:05:46,640 They are a reminder that the sun will soon return. 43 00:05:52,480 --> 00:05:58,240 On the western edge of Scandinavia lies the island of Iceland. 44 00:06:00,760 --> 00:06:03,920 Only a few miles below the Arctic Circle, 45 00:06:03,920 --> 00:06:08,480 the Hornstrandir peninsula spills out towards the North... 46 00:06:14,240 --> 00:06:16,800 ..in a series of dramatic fjords... 47 00:06:20,160 --> 00:06:23,000 ..and vast tracts of tundra. 48 00:06:26,240 --> 00:06:31,480 In February, the late winter heaves thick sheets of snow and ice 49 00:06:31,480 --> 00:06:34,240 downhill towards the sea. 50 00:06:37,760 --> 00:06:40,840 Small patches of berries from last autumn... 51 00:06:41,960 --> 00:06:44,800 ..are uncovered in the weak sunlight. 52 00:06:51,680 --> 00:06:54,920 A morsel for Iceland's only native mammal... 53 00:06:56,960 --> 00:06:58,920 ..the arctic fox. 54 00:07:04,560 --> 00:07:09,720 Her fur is thick enough to tolerate temperatures as low as -45C. 55 00:07:14,840 --> 00:07:18,200 But it's not the cold that she needs to worry about. 56 00:07:20,720 --> 00:07:23,240 Prey is scarce in the winter months... 57 00:07:24,200 --> 00:07:26,640 ..and a few berries are not enough. 58 00:07:28,960 --> 00:07:31,520 It pays to keep an eye on the tides. 59 00:07:36,960 --> 00:07:41,360 To survive here, arctic foxes must scavenge on the shoreline. 60 00:07:48,400 --> 00:07:53,400 But on the edge of Iceland, foraging is not always easy. 61 00:07:56,520 --> 00:07:59,320 Every day that the sun grows stronger, 62 00:07:59,320 --> 00:08:02,440 the cliffs of snow edge towards collapse. 63 00:08:09,280 --> 00:08:15,200 A formidable descent lies between her and her only hope of survival. 64 00:08:21,920 --> 00:08:24,400 She can't afford to miss low tide. 65 00:08:25,800 --> 00:08:28,640 There is no choice but to go down. 66 00:08:36,920 --> 00:08:41,360 Hornstrandir's coast is revealed for just a few hours... 67 00:08:43,440 --> 00:08:46,280 ..and ravens have already arrived. 68 00:08:56,880 --> 00:08:59,000 She works quickly, 69 00:08:59,000 --> 00:09:02,360 trying to find something they might have overlooked... 70 00:09:03,920 --> 00:09:06,400 ..before the tide cuts her off. 71 00:09:15,360 --> 00:09:18,600 Every metre of the beach is explored. 72 00:09:37,400 --> 00:09:42,360 This time, the strong currents have provided what she needs. 73 00:09:46,640 --> 00:09:49,360 A sea urchin is a lifeline. 74 00:10:03,040 --> 00:10:07,320 In summer, these cliffs will come alive with nesting birds... 75 00:10:09,520 --> 00:10:12,600 ..and her resilience will be rewarded. 76 00:10:14,560 --> 00:10:18,360 As the earth shifts, the sun grows stronger. 77 00:10:22,040 --> 00:10:23,600 For an arctic fox... 78 00:10:25,040 --> 00:10:27,680 ..the change can't come soon enough. 79 00:10:35,160 --> 00:10:37,280 In Iceland's highlands, 80 00:10:37,280 --> 00:10:41,200 the lengthening daylight does little to thaw the hills. 81 00:10:44,160 --> 00:10:48,320 In March, this is still winter's kingdom. 82 00:10:52,120 --> 00:10:56,240 Each year, this is the first place to greet the cold... 83 00:10:58,400 --> 00:11:01,160 ..and the last to say goodbye. 84 00:11:08,960 --> 00:11:11,760 But it's not as deserted as it seems. 85 00:11:18,880 --> 00:11:23,320 Bryn, Thorey and Birna are no strangers to the cold. 86 00:11:25,120 --> 00:11:29,040 These three friends take on a winter expedition every year. 87 00:11:32,000 --> 00:11:35,640 I really love bad weather, there's something healing in it. 88 00:11:37,280 --> 00:11:40,280 It's just you against the elements. It's great. 89 00:11:42,920 --> 00:11:46,920 Crossing hundreds of miles over a single weekend, 90 00:11:46,920 --> 00:11:51,160 they set aside any fears to navigate over hidden rivers... 91 00:11:52,480 --> 00:11:54,680 ..across buried crevasses... 92 00:11:56,160 --> 00:11:59,240 ..and creep beneath heavy banks of snow. 93 00:12:02,080 --> 00:12:07,880 In exchange, they are liberated from life's usual routines. 94 00:12:10,800 --> 00:12:14,200 For me as a woman, allowing me to have interests, 95 00:12:14,200 --> 00:12:17,880 to have something else than just being a mother 96 00:12:17,880 --> 00:12:20,080 and just being a good employer... 97 00:12:21,240 --> 00:12:25,360 ..I wanted to just put more adventure into my life. 98 00:12:44,400 --> 00:12:46,960 On these trips they are self-reliant, 99 00:12:46,960 --> 00:12:49,080 carrying everything they need... 100 00:12:50,480 --> 00:12:52,720 ..and hours away from rescue. 101 00:12:56,360 --> 00:12:58,520 I like navigating, and that's my... 102 00:12:58,520 --> 00:13:02,000 My strong suit is navigation and reading maps. 103 00:13:03,720 --> 00:13:06,200 Slowly, slowly you build up the experience... 104 00:13:07,600 --> 00:13:09,600 ..and you get more confident. 105 00:13:11,440 --> 00:13:15,600 But survival isn't just about mastering the conditions. 106 00:13:17,920 --> 00:13:19,880 It's a feeling of freedom. 107 00:13:19,880 --> 00:13:23,360 I think freedom is the strongest feeling I feel 108 00:13:23,360 --> 00:13:25,400 when I travel like this. 109 00:13:30,360 --> 00:13:35,800 With daylight fading, their intended destination comes into view... 110 00:13:37,920 --> 00:13:40,400 ..Iceland's hot springs. 111 00:13:43,520 --> 00:13:48,600 No trip to the highlands should be without this vital luxury. 112 00:13:51,160 --> 00:13:54,640 The hot springs are a treat all year round, 113 00:13:54,640 --> 00:13:57,480 but especially so in the wintertime. 114 00:14:00,800 --> 00:14:06,280 You find a hot spring and just soak it in and warm up. 115 00:14:11,920 --> 00:14:15,640 There are geothermal hot springs all over Iceland. 116 00:14:19,800 --> 00:14:22,440 The waters here are 40C 117 00:14:22,440 --> 00:14:26,280 and rich in minerals thought to have healing properties. 118 00:14:29,000 --> 00:14:31,960 You're a bit tired after the challenge 119 00:14:31,960 --> 00:14:36,680 you've taken on during the day, and it is the most amazing feeling. 120 00:14:38,320 --> 00:14:44,880 These hot springs are known in Icelandic as Landmannalaugar, 121 00:14:44,880 --> 00:14:47,120 'the people's pools'. 122 00:14:49,000 --> 00:14:54,440 For centuries, they have been used as a rest spot for weary travellers. 123 00:14:57,560 --> 00:14:59,600 Little has changed. 124 00:15:10,240 --> 00:15:15,120 These hot springs are an oasis in a desert of snow, 125 00:15:15,120 --> 00:15:20,560 but humans aren't the only ones here soaking up the warmth. 126 00:15:25,480 --> 00:15:27,520 Hidden amongst the mosses, 127 00:15:27,520 --> 00:15:30,720 a surprising creature stalks the undergrowth. 128 00:15:32,160 --> 00:15:33,680 Laugakongulo... 129 00:15:34,640 --> 00:15:36,880 ..Iceland's pool spider. 130 00:15:39,600 --> 00:15:41,960 Only the size of a thumbnail, 131 00:15:41,960 --> 00:15:46,200 these spiders are amongst the smallest of the wolf spider family. 132 00:15:49,560 --> 00:15:52,000 They're found all over the world. 133 00:15:54,160 --> 00:15:56,320 Normally dormant in the winter... 134 00:15:57,280 --> 00:16:00,840 ..here they live a very different life. 135 00:16:05,880 --> 00:16:09,240 The constant heat allows these spiders 136 00:16:09,240 --> 00:16:11,200 to defy the seasonal clock... 137 00:16:12,840 --> 00:16:16,120 ..thriving, even in the middle of winter. 138 00:16:23,680 --> 00:16:26,000 But there are limits even here. 139 00:16:26,960 --> 00:16:30,520 Wolf spiders must walk a perilous line 140 00:16:30,520 --> 00:16:34,440 between the worlds of ice and fire. 141 00:16:42,560 --> 00:16:46,400 One wrong step means being boiled alive... 142 00:16:49,600 --> 00:16:52,120 ..or swept away in the current. 143 00:16:56,560 --> 00:16:59,320 Not everyone lives to see the summer. 144 00:17:02,880 --> 00:17:05,720 But stray too far from the hot springs... 145 00:17:07,080 --> 00:17:09,880 ..and a much colder death awaits. 146 00:17:12,560 --> 00:17:16,120 Luckily, their prey is also marooned. 147 00:17:18,480 --> 00:17:21,520 These flies are hot spring specialists, 148 00:17:21,520 --> 00:17:24,520 feeding on nutrient-rich algae. 149 00:17:35,880 --> 00:17:38,800 Wolf spiders earned their name 150 00:17:38,800 --> 00:17:42,080 from their predatory hunting technique. 151 00:17:56,960 --> 00:18:00,440 It's sometimes hard to see the association. 152 00:18:31,320 --> 00:18:34,720 Even the most hopeless spider gets lucky sometimes. 153 00:18:38,000 --> 00:18:43,160 They might not be agile hunters, but in this warm oasis, 154 00:18:43,160 --> 00:18:45,920 they have the luxury of time. 155 00:18:55,280 --> 00:18:59,600 The hot springs across Iceland are a sanctuary from winter. 156 00:19:03,440 --> 00:19:06,640 But the volcanic forces that have created them... 157 00:19:09,400 --> 00:19:13,080 ..are as powerful as they are unpredictable. 158 00:19:19,200 --> 00:19:21,400 Since the history books began, 159 00:19:21,400 --> 00:19:25,840 Iceland has been a land dominated by ice... 160 00:19:26,800 --> 00:19:28,720 ..and fire. 161 00:19:33,000 --> 00:19:37,560 Though they coexist, it's fire that reigns here. 162 00:19:43,400 --> 00:19:46,160 Iceland has over 100 volcanoes. 163 00:19:49,400 --> 00:19:53,160 Magma is the lifeblood of this island... 164 00:19:59,320 --> 00:20:03,320 ..able to thaw Iceland's coldest winters 165 00:20:03,320 --> 00:20:08,960 and unleash ash clouds that turn day into night. 166 00:20:14,600 --> 00:20:17,480 More explosive eruptions of the past 167 00:20:17,480 --> 00:20:20,760 might be behind the words of ancient poetry. 168 00:20:22,880 --> 00:20:27,160 Sol ter sortna - the sun turns black... 169 00:20:28,600 --> 00:20:33,040 ..leikr har hiti - flames fly high... 170 00:20:34,320 --> 00:20:39,360 ..vid himin sjalfan - as if against heaven itself. 171 00:20:49,920 --> 00:20:56,600 Nowhere else in Scandinavia can the Earth defy winter with such success. 172 00:21:00,680 --> 00:21:04,920 Bur warmth is a distant memory in the far North. 173 00:21:10,080 --> 00:21:12,720 At Scandinavia's extremes, 174 00:21:12,720 --> 00:21:18,280 the frozen islands of Svalbard lie deep inside the Arctic Circle. 175 00:21:28,600 --> 00:21:33,000 Here, the brutal winter has been one long night. 176 00:21:36,040 --> 00:21:40,040 But by March, the sun finally returns. 177 00:21:50,440 --> 00:21:56,760 In just one month, the daylight swings from one hour to 12. 178 00:21:58,240 --> 00:22:01,040 Spring has finally begun. 179 00:22:08,040 --> 00:22:13,720 The sun's reappearance ignites a dormant lust in male polar bears. 180 00:22:19,960 --> 00:22:25,160 This male is now entirely devoted to finding a mate. 181 00:22:32,280 --> 00:22:36,160 He might have to travel hundreds of miles to find a female... 182 00:22:39,200 --> 00:22:41,760 ..and in the vast frozen landscape, 183 00:22:41,760 --> 00:22:45,080 there's only one way to track down romance. 184 00:22:46,600 --> 00:22:48,880 He must follow his nose. 185 00:22:53,840 --> 00:22:59,080 Scent glands on polar bears' feet mean that every footstep they leave 186 00:22:59,080 --> 00:23:02,520 encodes their identity on to the ice... 187 00:23:13,640 --> 00:23:17,880 ..and he's following the faint footsteps of a female. 188 00:23:30,200 --> 00:23:32,680 After days of pursuing her... 189 00:23:35,520 --> 00:23:37,480 ..there she is. 190 00:23:48,040 --> 00:23:51,200 Finding her is only half the challenge. 191 00:23:57,280 --> 00:24:01,480 Polar bear courtship is anything but simple. 192 00:24:03,000 --> 00:24:05,280 Males are usually so aggressive 193 00:24:05,280 --> 00:24:07,560 that females spend most of the year 194 00:24:07,560 --> 00:24:09,880 avoiding them. 195 00:24:09,880 --> 00:24:12,240 If he wants to win her trust, 196 00:24:12,240 --> 00:24:14,320 he'll need to turn on the charm. 197 00:24:19,040 --> 00:24:22,680 Because it takes so long for a polar bear couple to meet, 198 00:24:22,680 --> 00:24:28,120 her ovulation will only be triggered after several days of his company. 199 00:24:34,520 --> 00:24:40,240 And it'll take much longer than that for his efforts to bear any fruit. 200 00:24:45,960 --> 00:24:50,160 After a winter alone, he's willing to take on the challenge. 201 00:24:55,720 --> 00:25:00,360 South of Svalbard, across the freezing Barents Sea, 202 00:25:00,360 --> 00:25:05,840 the northern tip of Norway is a patchwork of tundra and snow. 203 00:25:10,360 --> 00:25:13,720 In mid-May, sunset merges into sunrise 204 00:25:13,720 --> 00:25:16,000 for the first time in the year. 205 00:25:18,040 --> 00:25:22,160 The sun won't set again for another eight weeks. 206 00:25:25,360 --> 00:25:27,840 It's a silent starting pistol 207 00:25:27,840 --> 00:25:30,880 that will transform the Arctic landscape... 208 00:25:32,440 --> 00:25:34,400 ..and its animals. 209 00:25:38,520 --> 00:25:42,360 Stunted willows provide the first nectar of the season... 210 00:25:46,800 --> 00:25:50,440 ..and a song post for migrant birds from the south. 211 00:25:54,560 --> 00:25:59,200 But the tundra's most extravagant visitors have just arrived. 212 00:26:03,400 --> 00:26:05,160 Male ruffs... 213 00:26:06,120 --> 00:26:08,440 ..desperate for attention. 214 00:26:16,000 --> 00:26:18,800 This is a lekking ground. 215 00:26:18,800 --> 00:26:22,640 Here, males defend their own tiny patch of tundra, 216 00:26:22,640 --> 00:26:28,200 performing elaborate dances to seduce their female audience. 217 00:26:33,840 --> 00:26:36,440 With 24 hours of sunlight, 218 00:26:36,440 --> 00:26:39,360 this performance goes on through the night. 219 00:26:43,360 --> 00:26:48,040 Whenever boundaries are crossed, fights break out. 220 00:26:59,200 --> 00:27:02,280 But there are some who don't play by these rules. 221 00:27:04,640 --> 00:27:09,080 Ruffs with white feathers are genetically different. 222 00:27:11,040 --> 00:27:13,760 They will never hold a dancing patch of their own. 223 00:27:18,040 --> 00:27:20,640 They're less aggressive than the other males... 224 00:27:22,760 --> 00:27:24,920 ..and perhaps that's why... 225 00:27:27,120 --> 00:27:30,480 ..the dominant dancers tolerate their presence. 226 00:27:34,720 --> 00:27:39,680 They even co-ordinate dance moves for a more dazzling display. 227 00:27:52,000 --> 00:27:55,640 But white ruffs have their own mating strategy. 228 00:27:57,560 --> 00:28:00,800 He'll endure the leading male's ego 229 00:28:00,800 --> 00:28:05,080 if it means he can get a little closer to the ladies. 230 00:28:07,200 --> 00:28:09,160 But too close... 231 00:28:10,720 --> 00:28:13,360 ..and he's quickly put back in his place. 232 00:28:18,760 --> 00:28:21,200 He'll need to be a little sneakier. 233 00:28:22,920 --> 00:28:26,320 Perhaps he can trick this orange-maned male? 234 00:28:36,880 --> 00:28:40,320 But he's not the easiest dancing partner either. 235 00:28:43,560 --> 00:28:45,840 BIRD CHIRPS 236 00:28:48,000 --> 00:28:50,160 An intruder interrupts. 237 00:28:53,560 --> 00:28:55,920 This is his moment. 238 00:29:13,000 --> 00:29:15,720 The white ruff steals the show... 239 00:29:21,200 --> 00:29:24,400 ..and there's nothing his competition can do about it. 240 00:29:31,400 --> 00:29:33,760 He'll take every chance he can get. 241 00:29:35,320 --> 00:29:38,120 And with endless daylight on his side, 242 00:29:38,120 --> 00:29:40,920 he has plenty of time to push his luck. 243 00:29:48,400 --> 00:29:51,040 Throughout June, across Scandinavia... 244 00:29:52,760 --> 00:29:55,040 ..as each day grows warmer, 245 00:29:55,040 --> 00:29:58,840 the landscape becomes almost unrecognisable. 246 00:30:04,680 --> 00:30:07,720 The muted white of Iceland's highlands 247 00:30:07,720 --> 00:30:10,800 gives way to a kaleidoscope of colour. 248 00:30:18,800 --> 00:30:23,000 Meltwater braids across black volcanic sands. 249 00:30:33,480 --> 00:30:39,080 Flowers rush from seed to bloom in a race against time. 250 00:30:46,040 --> 00:30:50,280 In the ancient Norse calendar, these weeks of light 251 00:30:50,280 --> 00:30:54,680 were known as Solmanuour, the sun month. 252 00:31:04,920 --> 00:31:07,080 Even in Svalbard, 253 00:31:07,080 --> 00:31:10,960 the stubborn remnants of winter are finally overthrown. 254 00:31:13,160 --> 00:31:16,240 The sun is at the height of her power. 255 00:31:19,240 --> 00:31:23,760 Temperatures climb up from their winter lows by nearly 30 degrees. 256 00:31:31,080 --> 00:31:33,920 And this world of snow and ice 257 00:31:33,920 --> 00:31:37,960 is unravelling at an unimaginable pace. 258 00:31:41,120 --> 00:31:45,720 Every year, Svalbard loses 18 billion tonnes of water... 259 00:31:51,200 --> 00:31:55,040 ..and much of this water comes from glaciers. 260 00:31:59,520 --> 00:32:01,480 In recent years, 261 00:32:01,480 --> 00:32:05,640 glaciers across Svalbard have been behaving strangely. 262 00:32:09,800 --> 00:32:13,240 Scientists know that the Scandinavian Arctic, 263 00:32:13,240 --> 00:32:17,320 like most of the North, is undergoing a dramatic change... 264 00:32:24,000 --> 00:32:30,120 ..none more so than glaciologists like Dr Heidi Sevestre. 265 00:32:32,640 --> 00:32:36,800 My job is to study big monsters of ice, like this guy behind me. 266 00:32:39,800 --> 00:32:42,840 I find glaciers endlessly fascinating. 267 00:32:44,160 --> 00:32:47,680 They are absolutely beautiful. They are just mesmerising. 268 00:32:56,760 --> 00:33:00,000 Heidi has been studying glaciers for over ten years. 269 00:33:05,440 --> 00:33:07,600 Just another day in the office! 270 00:33:12,080 --> 00:33:17,120 Wahlenbergbreen is one of over 2,000 glaciers on Svalbard. 271 00:33:19,480 --> 00:33:23,640 This is a river of ice, 16 miles long, 272 00:33:23,640 --> 00:33:25,880 emptying into the sea. 273 00:33:28,000 --> 00:33:33,160 Glaciers in the Arctic are all being deeply affected by climate change. 274 00:33:33,160 --> 00:33:36,360 The one we have behind us is quite a special one. 275 00:33:38,280 --> 00:33:42,440 This glacier, five or six years ago, was almost completely static. 276 00:33:42,440 --> 00:33:46,880 It was completely dormant. So slow, nothing was happening here. 277 00:33:46,880 --> 00:33:51,200 And, simply, the glacier started to wake up and to accelerate. 278 00:33:52,560 --> 00:33:55,680 This is a glacier that is currently surging. 279 00:33:58,680 --> 00:34:04,200 As the arctic heats up, Svalbard is experiencing more rain every year... 280 00:34:05,920 --> 00:34:08,320 ..which erodes through glaciers, 281 00:34:08,320 --> 00:34:12,040 making them slip faster towards warming seas 282 00:34:12,040 --> 00:34:14,680 in this process known as surging. 283 00:34:17,480 --> 00:34:20,720 Heidi is here for the arctic melt season 284 00:34:20,720 --> 00:34:24,960 to find out just how fast Wahlenbergbreen is moving. 285 00:34:26,800 --> 00:34:30,960 Time-lapse is really a revolution in the field of glaciology. 286 00:34:30,960 --> 00:34:33,520 Making the invisible visible. 287 00:34:37,120 --> 00:34:40,800 The team leave the time-lapse cameras running over the summer 288 00:34:40,800 --> 00:34:45,720 to monitor the glacier's movements before retrieving the footage. 289 00:34:50,480 --> 00:34:52,600 Using the time-lapse footage 290 00:34:52,600 --> 00:34:55,640 and tracking some of the features in the ice, 291 00:34:55,640 --> 00:34:58,520 it tells us that the glacier is moving 292 00:34:58,520 --> 00:35:02,160 at about four to five metres per day, 293 00:35:02,160 --> 00:35:05,400 which is super, super fast for a glacier of this size. 294 00:35:07,440 --> 00:35:09,800 For scientists like Heidi, 295 00:35:09,800 --> 00:35:12,520 Svalbard is a glimpse into the future 296 00:35:12,520 --> 00:35:15,280 for places far beyond Scandinavia. 297 00:35:17,560 --> 00:35:21,440 It is very important to have people to study what is happening here 298 00:35:21,440 --> 00:35:24,160 because it's showing us what will happen 299 00:35:24,160 --> 00:35:27,040 in the rest of the world in the decades to come. 300 00:35:30,320 --> 00:35:31,840 Because of climate change, 301 00:35:31,840 --> 00:35:35,840 the Arctic is warming twice as fast as the rest of the world. 302 00:35:37,080 --> 00:35:40,560 But Svalbard is warming much faster than that. 303 00:35:42,040 --> 00:35:46,280 We've seen glaciers in Svalbard that, as the result of a surge, 304 00:35:46,280 --> 00:35:49,840 lost 80% of their entire mass. 305 00:35:50,800 --> 00:35:54,680 That is ice that the glacier will never recover. 306 00:35:55,640 --> 00:35:57,800 So what we are seeing here 307 00:35:57,800 --> 00:36:00,760 is pretty much like a patient in intensive care 308 00:36:00,760 --> 00:36:02,920 and all the alarm bells are ringing. 309 00:36:04,320 --> 00:36:08,360 Temperatures here are expected to warm by over ten degrees 310 00:36:08,360 --> 00:36:11,000 by the end of this century... 311 00:36:11,000 --> 00:36:14,160 ..changing Svalbard beyond recognition. 312 00:36:21,240 --> 00:36:25,480 But Heidi believes there is still hope for the Arctic. 313 00:36:27,160 --> 00:36:30,640 What's very clear is that you can never stop an ocean that is rising. 314 00:36:32,880 --> 00:36:36,240 We have all the cards in our hands today to fight the climate crisis... 315 00:36:38,560 --> 00:36:42,160 ..and that makes me incredibly hopeful for the future. 316 00:36:56,480 --> 00:36:58,400 20,000 years ago, 317 00:36:58,400 --> 00:37:02,040 great sheets of ice covered the whole of Scandinavia. 318 00:37:05,680 --> 00:37:09,560 Ancient glaciers carved Norway's mountain valleys. 319 00:37:12,560 --> 00:37:14,560 But in the midday sun... 320 00:37:15,960 --> 00:37:18,720 ..the Ice Age is a distant memory. 321 00:37:30,880 --> 00:37:35,720 And the muskoxen of Norway were not built for this heat. 322 00:37:45,960 --> 00:37:51,320 With two layers of thick fur, the leader of the herd is suffering. 323 00:37:54,800 --> 00:37:58,800 His rank entitles him to this harem of females... 324 00:38:00,320 --> 00:38:03,040 ..all mothers to calves that he has fathered. 325 00:38:10,240 --> 00:38:13,800 But this mating privilege comes with responsibility. 326 00:38:16,680 --> 00:38:20,120 He must protect and lead them until winter. 327 00:38:22,360 --> 00:38:26,080 They can't stay in the hot, airless valleys. 328 00:38:29,680 --> 00:38:32,560 Moving to higher ground brings relief... 329 00:38:33,560 --> 00:38:37,720 ..but it also means the muskoxen scattered across Dovrefjell 330 00:38:37,720 --> 00:38:40,200 are slowly moving closer together... 331 00:38:43,880 --> 00:38:46,800 ..an unwelcome prospect for the male. 332 00:38:50,880 --> 00:38:55,160 Late summer triggers the start of the muskox rut. 333 00:38:58,960 --> 00:39:03,960 His position of dominance must be defended in battle every year. 334 00:39:13,000 --> 00:39:14,520 A rival male. 335 00:39:26,320 --> 00:39:30,120 This challenger knows he is an equal match. 336 00:39:36,120 --> 00:39:39,120 Presenting his broadside demonstrates his bulk. 337 00:39:42,480 --> 00:39:45,760 The defender won't tolerate such insolence. 338 00:40:08,080 --> 00:40:11,400 They charge at speeds over 30mph. 339 00:40:25,320 --> 00:40:28,800 Despite having a skull thicker than a brick... 340 00:40:28,800 --> 00:40:31,320 ..and a brain smaller than a fist... 341 00:40:36,080 --> 00:40:39,280 ..these impacts cause lasting damage. 342 00:40:50,040 --> 00:40:53,040 They're too evenly matched to end the fight quickly. 343 00:40:56,080 --> 00:41:00,040 Instead, they try to throw their opponent off balance. 344 00:41:19,760 --> 00:41:22,640 The defending male times it right. 345 00:41:24,960 --> 00:41:27,280 It's enough to finish it. 346 00:41:35,680 --> 00:41:38,080 His legacy is protected... 347 00:41:41,520 --> 00:41:43,080 ..for now. 348 00:41:46,000 --> 00:41:50,200 The muskox rut will only end at the first signs of winter. 349 00:41:54,840 --> 00:41:59,160 Under the glare of the sun, he'll be tested to his limits. 350 00:42:07,200 --> 00:42:11,240 Other arctic animals seem to be revelling 351 00:42:11,240 --> 00:42:13,680 in life under the midnight sun. 352 00:42:16,800 --> 00:42:19,880 In Svalbard, freed from sea ice, 353 00:42:19,880 --> 00:42:22,800 the shoreline provides summer visitors 354 00:42:22,800 --> 00:42:25,840 with round-the-clock feeding opportunities. 355 00:42:42,600 --> 00:42:46,960 In Hornsund, the arctic's most numerous sea bird... 356 00:42:48,440 --> 00:42:51,120 ..is permanently dressed for dinner. 357 00:43:04,160 --> 00:43:09,200 This war zone of rock is the seasonal home of the little auk. 358 00:43:11,200 --> 00:43:13,520 Spending their life at sea, 359 00:43:13,520 --> 00:43:17,280 little auks come on land for just a few months of the year. 360 00:43:24,680 --> 00:43:29,720 Concealed between the boulders lies a badly kept secret. 361 00:43:48,800 --> 00:43:51,960 Over 55,000 little auk chicks... 362 00:43:53,160 --> 00:43:55,160 ..hiding out of sight. 363 00:43:57,680 --> 00:44:00,440 They need to grow up quickly and fledge 364 00:44:00,440 --> 00:44:03,440 before the temperature drops below freezing. 365 00:44:05,600 --> 00:44:07,880 They have just under four weeks. 366 00:44:14,680 --> 00:44:19,360 Little auks mate for life and his parents are a team, 367 00:44:19,360 --> 00:44:24,440 coordinating daily trips over 60 miles out to sea 368 00:44:24,440 --> 00:44:27,600 to ensure their chick is never without food for long. 369 00:44:29,320 --> 00:44:33,240 Raising young like this is a massive energy investment... 370 00:44:34,480 --> 00:44:37,840 ..so each pair will only have one chick, 371 00:44:37,840 --> 00:44:40,720 one shot at parenting, every year. 372 00:44:43,680 --> 00:44:45,840 But they are devoted to the cause. 373 00:44:50,880 --> 00:44:53,920 Each day, the chick will eat half its body weight 374 00:44:53,920 --> 00:44:56,320 in energy-rich zooplankton. 375 00:45:01,440 --> 00:45:05,120 When he is not being fed, he's alone in the nest. 376 00:45:07,680 --> 00:45:10,440 But there is always someone watching. 377 00:45:13,400 --> 00:45:15,120 Glaucous gulls. 378 00:45:18,520 --> 00:45:20,840 They are ruthless predators. 379 00:45:31,320 --> 00:45:36,200 Suddenly, the nest made of rocks makes sense. 380 00:45:36,200 --> 00:45:38,440 This is a fortress. 381 00:45:41,440 --> 00:45:43,920 And enemies are everywhere. 382 00:45:58,840 --> 00:46:01,240 As July gives way to August... 383 00:46:03,000 --> 00:46:06,440 ..the sun's power in the North begins to wane. 384 00:46:07,800 --> 00:46:12,400 The temperature on land drops and fogs roll across the colony, 385 00:46:12,400 --> 00:46:14,880 announcing the end of summer. 386 00:46:21,080 --> 00:46:23,840 It's a warning that time is running out. 387 00:46:27,040 --> 00:46:30,760 At just two weeks old, this little auk chick 388 00:46:30,760 --> 00:46:34,400 must begin preparing for the flight of his life. 389 00:46:38,720 --> 00:46:41,000 But it's too cramped in here. 390 00:46:42,240 --> 00:46:44,040 He'll have to go outside. 391 00:46:50,720 --> 00:46:54,960 The gulls pick off unwary chicks as they emerge. 392 00:46:56,920 --> 00:46:58,800 Despite the risks, 393 00:46:58,800 --> 00:47:01,840 he needs to exercise his wings before he can fledge. 394 00:47:10,080 --> 00:47:12,240 This practice is vital. 395 00:47:18,600 --> 00:47:21,400 The gulls ignite terror in the young chicks... 396 00:47:27,560 --> 00:47:30,080 ..but they must continue their training. 397 00:47:32,200 --> 00:47:36,040 Every fledgling chick has a guardian for their first flight. 398 00:47:37,720 --> 00:47:40,040 It's a nervous time for any parent. 399 00:47:47,360 --> 00:47:51,760 Once they take off, they will have to head straight to the open ocean. 400 00:47:53,280 --> 00:47:55,240 There's no turning back. 401 00:47:58,320 --> 00:48:01,280 A young female is also readying herself. 402 00:48:06,480 --> 00:48:09,120 And with some imperceptible signal... 403 00:48:12,840 --> 00:48:14,440 ..she's gone. 404 00:48:19,720 --> 00:48:23,000 Not everyone can pluck up the courage so quickly. 405 00:48:29,560 --> 00:48:33,480 Soon, pairs begin disappearing into the horizon. 406 00:48:50,480 --> 00:48:52,200 True freedom. 407 00:48:54,120 --> 00:48:56,640 And just in time. 408 00:49:12,200 --> 00:49:17,040 By late August, Svalbard's slopes fall quiet once more. 409 00:49:19,280 --> 00:49:24,600 The sun dips below the horizon for the first time in over 100 days. 410 00:49:27,240 --> 00:49:30,880 Across Scandinavia, seasonal visitors depart... 411 00:49:32,760 --> 00:49:34,680 ..fleeing the coming winter. 412 00:49:41,200 --> 00:49:45,040 Many who remain welcome the return of the cold. 413 00:49:47,040 --> 00:49:52,880 Solitary polar bears are once again free to roam the expanding sea ice. 414 00:49:57,160 --> 00:50:00,560 Muskoxen regroup into larger herds... 415 00:50:01,800 --> 00:50:03,920 ..to face the winter together. 416 00:50:07,080 --> 00:50:11,520 Iceland's foxes wait for new treasures on the tides. 417 00:50:13,360 --> 00:50:18,280 Over the next few weeks, the daily temperature drops to -10C... 418 00:50:21,320 --> 00:50:25,920 ..and the sun finally surrenders to the polar night. 419 00:50:35,920 --> 00:50:38,000 The team spent a year 420 00:50:38,000 --> 00:50:41,560 filming in Scandinavia's most extreme environments, 421 00:50:41,560 --> 00:50:47,440 capturing some of its toughest and strangest characters. 422 00:50:47,440 --> 00:50:49,800 But no shoot took the team further 423 00:50:49,800 --> 00:50:54,120 than a trip to the High Arctic islands of Svalbard 424 00:50:54,120 --> 00:50:57,640 to film little auk chicks learning to fly. 425 00:51:01,200 --> 00:51:03,240 It's just unbelievable, you know. 426 00:51:03,240 --> 00:51:05,120 The sounds are just amazing. 427 00:51:05,120 --> 00:51:07,800 You get, like, these big swooshes as they go over you. 428 00:51:07,800 --> 00:51:09,600 It just sounds like the wind. 429 00:51:09,600 --> 00:51:13,800 It's just so beautiful and electric, I'm just kind of in awe. 430 00:51:13,800 --> 00:51:16,440 To match the colony's peak activity, 431 00:51:16,440 --> 00:51:19,720 the crew must work during the night hours. 432 00:51:19,720 --> 00:51:22,360 It's almost midnight. 433 00:51:22,360 --> 00:51:24,000 It's beautiful. 434 00:51:28,880 --> 00:51:31,000 I think the biggest challenge for me 435 00:51:31,000 --> 00:51:33,960 will be the fact there's just so much going on. 436 00:51:35,400 --> 00:51:37,560 But the crew have help at hand. 437 00:51:38,840 --> 00:51:43,800 Kasia Wojczulanis-Jakubas, from the University of Gdansk in Poland, 438 00:51:43,800 --> 00:51:47,920 has been studying little auks for almost 20 years. 439 00:51:47,920 --> 00:51:50,160 Part of me treats them as data points... 440 00:51:53,160 --> 00:51:56,800 ..parts of me treat them like, I don't know, not even like pets, 441 00:51:56,800 --> 00:51:59,200 but like family members. 442 00:51:59,200 --> 00:52:01,240 Every summer, Kasia and her team 443 00:52:01,240 --> 00:52:05,280 monitor the behaviour and health of the little auks, 444 00:52:05,280 --> 00:52:09,680 giving Declan a chance to meet one of this year's chicks. 445 00:52:10,680 --> 00:52:12,440 So how old's this little guy? 446 00:52:12,440 --> 00:52:15,040 Two weeks old. Do they grow pretty quick? 447 00:52:15,040 --> 00:52:17,760 How long do they have until they've got to leave the nest? 448 00:52:17,760 --> 00:52:20,520 They need three weeks to be fully developed 449 00:52:20,520 --> 00:52:23,000 and then to fledge it's like four weeks. 450 00:52:25,720 --> 00:52:28,480 Good luck, little fella. I really hope you make it. 451 00:52:30,520 --> 00:52:32,440 DECLAN CHUCKLES 452 00:52:34,480 --> 00:52:35,920 They're so cute. 453 00:52:37,600 --> 00:52:42,080 In return, the crew are hoping to help Kasia see the chicks 454 00:52:42,080 --> 00:52:44,600 as she has never seen them before. 455 00:52:44,600 --> 00:52:48,240 So I am just fitting this nest camera into the nest, 456 00:52:48,240 --> 00:52:51,600 so we can get a view of the chick as he grows. 457 00:52:56,000 --> 00:52:58,400 This is our view. 458 00:52:58,400 --> 00:53:00,880 Oh, yeah, there is a chick. There's chick. 459 00:53:00,880 --> 00:53:02,840 Oh, so cool. 460 00:53:02,840 --> 00:53:05,840 And it seems one of the chicks isn't alone. 461 00:53:05,840 --> 00:53:08,080 There was another chick! 462 00:53:08,080 --> 00:53:10,400 Come on, there is another nest! 463 00:53:10,400 --> 00:53:13,040 So they're neighbours, those little chicks! 464 00:53:13,040 --> 00:53:16,640 That one just pooed right into his nest, which is very impolite. 465 00:53:16,640 --> 00:53:18,400 That's amazing. 466 00:53:18,400 --> 00:53:20,520 The nest density is so big. Yeah, yeah. 467 00:53:20,520 --> 00:53:23,200 This is so unexpected. 468 00:53:23,200 --> 00:53:24,640 Oh, so cool. 469 00:53:25,920 --> 00:53:28,320 After a week under the midnight sun, 470 00:53:28,320 --> 00:53:30,560 the crew are making great progress... 471 00:53:34,680 --> 00:53:37,640 ..and attracting interest from the locals. 472 00:53:47,760 --> 00:53:50,200 We've got distracted from the little auks 473 00:53:50,200 --> 00:53:53,720 because an arctic fox has just been terrorising reindeer. 474 00:53:56,000 --> 00:53:58,960 A* entertainment from the Arctic Tundra. 475 00:54:02,920 --> 00:54:06,960 As another filming night ends, time is ticking for the crew 476 00:54:06,960 --> 00:54:10,360 to capture the moment a chick first takes wing. 477 00:54:10,360 --> 00:54:12,280 It's coming up to 5am now. 478 00:54:12,280 --> 00:54:14,640 So we've got about five nights left, 479 00:54:14,640 --> 00:54:18,640 and hopefully he'll fledge in time because he's late! 480 00:54:19,960 --> 00:54:22,480 And Kasia's observations are suggesting 481 00:54:22,480 --> 00:54:24,560 not everything is right in the colony. 482 00:54:25,960 --> 00:54:29,720 Working here for almost 20 years, I can really say that this year 483 00:54:29,720 --> 00:54:32,480 is very, very different from the others. 484 00:54:32,480 --> 00:54:34,960 They started to breed the earliest ever. 485 00:54:37,480 --> 00:54:39,360 And then, apparently, 486 00:54:39,360 --> 00:54:42,560 they struggle a lot to get food to all their chicks 487 00:54:42,560 --> 00:54:45,360 and it seems like they travel really, really far. 488 00:54:45,360 --> 00:54:47,640 So it's like 100km. 489 00:54:47,640 --> 00:54:50,160 That's so much energy they're using. Yes, it is. 490 00:54:51,120 --> 00:54:55,720 The most nutritious food can only be found in cold Arctic waters 491 00:54:55,720 --> 00:54:59,560 that are becoming harder to reach in a warming world. 492 00:55:01,960 --> 00:55:06,920 100km per mouthful is a big ask for a tiny bird. 493 00:55:09,560 --> 00:55:12,280 So they could keep struggling year on year? Yeah, yeah. 494 00:55:12,280 --> 00:55:15,520 You will always have better and worse seasons, but the thing is, 495 00:55:15,520 --> 00:55:18,960 these worse seasons, they happen to be more and more frequent, 496 00:55:18,960 --> 00:55:23,320 and this is very likely to be an effect of this climate change. 497 00:55:28,720 --> 00:55:31,040 The weather takes a turn for the worse... 498 00:55:33,720 --> 00:55:37,040 ..and the crew must retreat to the research station. 499 00:55:40,160 --> 00:55:42,400 All they can do is wait. 500 00:55:44,600 --> 00:55:46,480 The headphones are going back on. 501 00:55:48,480 --> 00:55:50,160 The next evening, 502 00:55:50,160 --> 00:55:53,280 a break in the weather brings a change in atmosphere. 503 00:55:57,280 --> 00:56:00,040 All of a sudden, it just seems a bit different. 504 00:56:00,040 --> 00:56:03,840 The colony, they're a bit more... Yeah. 505 00:56:03,840 --> 00:56:09,280 It's 8pm, and the crew spot a chick that's looking ready. 506 00:56:09,280 --> 00:56:12,800 I really think these two are hyping up for something. 507 00:56:12,800 --> 00:56:14,280 They should go tonight. 508 00:56:14,280 --> 00:56:17,040 Shall we just sit tight on them? Yeah, yeah, I think so. 509 00:56:19,080 --> 00:56:22,120 To be in with a chance of capturing the moment, 510 00:56:22,120 --> 00:56:25,000 the crew must focus on one chick. 511 00:56:25,000 --> 00:56:28,760 He could fly any second, but it's a big gamble. 512 00:56:29,960 --> 00:56:32,320 He's just biding his time, isn't he? Mmm. 513 00:56:34,160 --> 00:56:36,160 There's going to be hours of this. 514 00:56:37,160 --> 00:56:40,080 Yeah. This guy's nervous. I'm nervous too, actually. 515 00:56:40,080 --> 00:56:42,160 You would be nervous though, wouldn't you? 516 00:57:03,080 --> 00:57:06,120 I know it's a nerve-racking time but you've got to do it. 517 00:57:06,120 --> 00:57:07,720 Bite the bullet. 518 00:57:09,560 --> 00:57:11,880 After seven long hours... 519 00:57:14,320 --> 00:57:15,840 Ooh! Ooh! 520 00:57:18,520 --> 00:57:21,000 ..they finally have their shot. 521 00:57:26,480 --> 00:57:28,320 Whoa! That was stressful. 522 00:57:28,320 --> 00:57:30,080 All right, let's find the next one, then! 523 00:57:30,080 --> 00:57:31,480 HE LAUGHS 524 00:57:31,480 --> 00:57:33,600 It's four in the morning, isn't it? Yeah, it is. 525 00:57:36,800 --> 00:57:40,640 With chicks fledging in their droves and more shots in the can... 526 00:57:40,640 --> 00:57:44,000 Yeah, so cool! 527 00:57:44,000 --> 00:57:46,320 Perfect angle, perfect moment! 528 00:57:46,320 --> 00:57:49,240 ..it's finally time for the crew to leave. 529 00:57:49,240 --> 00:57:51,040 The little auks, I loved them. 530 00:57:51,040 --> 00:57:55,240 I loved watching them finally have the courage. 531 00:57:55,240 --> 00:57:58,160 I'm definitely going to miss this place. It's very special. 532 00:57:58,160 --> 00:58:02,360 I feel really quite attached to the fledglings. 533 00:58:02,360 --> 00:58:04,360 When we've been watching them go, 534 00:58:04,360 --> 00:58:07,600 I can't help but wonder how scary it must be 535 00:58:07,600 --> 00:58:12,160 to go from your safe little nest to the wide open ocean. 536 00:58:12,160 --> 00:58:16,040 Tonight is quite a good example of Svalbard's famous fogs, 537 00:58:16,040 --> 00:58:19,000 So it's kind of nature's way of telling you to leave, 538 00:58:19,000 --> 00:58:22,080 and that's obviously what the little auks are doing. 539 00:58:22,080 --> 00:58:23,720 And us, too! 70571

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