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In the far north of Europe
is a land steeped in myth.
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00:00:08,160 --> 00:00:10,200
The realm of Thor...
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00:00:11,480 --> 00:00:13,280
..and Odin.
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00:00:17,000 --> 00:00:19,800
From Norway's frozen wilderness...
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00:00:22,280 --> 00:00:26,000
..deep into magical
Swedish forests...
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00:00:28,360 --> 00:00:31,920
..across Denmark's
windswept shores...
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00:00:33,760 --> 00:00:37,280
..to explosive
Icelandic volcanoes...
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00:00:40,080 --> 00:00:43,080
..Scandinavia's
breathtaking landscapes...
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00:00:47,240 --> 00:00:49,760
..have shaped its people...
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00:00:58,560 --> 00:01:00,920
..and its wildlife.
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00:01:07,160 --> 00:01:13,000
At the extremes, Scandinavia
gives way to a kingdom of ice...
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00:01:16,680 --> 00:01:20,360
..where the long dark polar night...
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00:01:20,360 --> 00:01:23,480
..melts into a sleepless
rush of life...
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00:01:25,000 --> 00:01:27,520
..under endless summer light.
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00:01:32,160 --> 00:01:34,360
To survive here,
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animals must navigate the most
dramatic seasonal shifts on Earth,
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00:01:39,520 --> 00:01:42,560
driven by the power of the sun.
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00:02:06,400 --> 00:02:12,320
Scandinavia's far north
is in the grip of winter.
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00:02:20,600 --> 00:02:26,040
Lonely mountains
and isolated Arctic islands...
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00:02:27,440 --> 00:02:32,160
..are locked under
the weight of snow and ice.
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00:02:35,480 --> 00:02:39,560
These are Scandinavia's
most remote places.
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00:02:43,240 --> 00:02:48,520
Starved of sunlight in winter
and plunged into the bitter cold...
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..often reaching lows of -20C.
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There are not many creatures who
can bear this long, dark season.
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00:03:04,360 --> 00:03:10,280
But for those who stay, this is a
final stronghold in a warming world.
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00:03:27,800 --> 00:03:31,720
Winds over 100mph
greet the muskoxen
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00:03:31,720 --> 00:03:33,960
of Norway's remote mountains.
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00:03:41,440 --> 00:03:48,680
They are a relic of the Ice Age,
unchanged for over 600,000 years.
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Layers of thick fur shield them
from the vicious weather.
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00:04:05,120 --> 00:04:09,200
Herding together, they're at home
in the long winter.
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But even in the gloom, the sun
does not let the North forget her.
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93 million miles away,
a solar storm is raging.
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00:04:40,120 --> 00:04:44,400
Electrically charged particles
burst from the sun's surface...
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..and hurtle towards Earth.
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00:04:59,240 --> 00:05:01,440
As they reach our planet,
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00:05:01,440 --> 00:05:06,800
the attack is deflected towards
the poles by Earth's magnetic field.
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00:05:08,880 --> 00:05:12,200
But some particles break
through to the atmosphere
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and react with gases in the sky...
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00:05:16,520 --> 00:05:20,200
..igniting the lights
of the aurora borealis.
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00:05:26,160 --> 00:05:31,240
Only in the darkness can
they be seen in their full glory.
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00:05:33,680 --> 00:05:39,240
Icelanders call them Nordurljos,
the Dawn of the North.
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They are a reminder
that the sun will soon return.
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On the western edge of Scandinavia
lies the island of Iceland.
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Only a few miles below
the Arctic Circle,
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the Hornstrandir peninsula
spills out towards the North...
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..in a series of dramatic fjords...
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00:06:20,160 --> 00:06:23,000
..and vast tracts of tundra.
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00:06:26,240 --> 00:06:31,480
In February, the late winter heaves
thick sheets of snow and ice
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00:06:31,480 --> 00:06:34,240
downhill towards the sea.
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00:06:37,760 --> 00:06:40,840
Small patches of berries
from last autumn...
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..are uncovered
in the weak sunlight.
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A morsel for Iceland's
only native mammal...
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..the arctic fox.
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00:07:04,560 --> 00:07:09,720
Her fur is thick enough to tolerate
temperatures as low as -45C.
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00:07:14,840 --> 00:07:18,200
But it's not the cold
that she needs to worry about.
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00:07:20,720 --> 00:07:23,240
Prey is scarce
in the winter months...
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00:07:24,200 --> 00:07:26,640
..and a few berries are not enough.
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00:07:28,960 --> 00:07:31,520
It pays to keep an eye on the tides.
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00:07:36,960 --> 00:07:41,360
To survive here, arctic foxes
must scavenge on the shoreline.
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00:07:48,400 --> 00:07:53,400
But on the edge of Iceland,
foraging is not always easy.
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Every day that the sun
grows stronger,
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the cliffs of snow
edge towards collapse.
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00:08:09,280 --> 00:08:15,200
A formidable descent lies between
her and her only hope of survival.
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She can't afford to miss low tide.
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There is no choice but to go down.
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00:08:36,920 --> 00:08:41,360
Hornstrandir's coast is revealed
for just a few hours...
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..and ravens have already arrived.
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She works quickly,
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00:08:59,000 --> 00:09:02,360
trying to find something
they might have overlooked...
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..before the tide cuts her off.
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00:09:15,360 --> 00:09:18,600
Every metre of the beach
is explored.
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00:09:37,400 --> 00:09:42,360
This time, the strong currents
have provided what she needs.
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A sea urchin is a lifeline.
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In summer, these cliffs will
come alive with nesting birds...
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..and her resilience
will be rewarded.
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00:10:14,560 --> 00:10:18,360
As the earth shifts,
the sun grows stronger.
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00:10:22,040 --> 00:10:23,600
For an arctic fox...
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..the change can't come soon enough.
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In Iceland's highlands,
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the lengthening daylight
does little to thaw the hills.
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00:10:44,160 --> 00:10:48,320
In March, this is still
winter's kingdom.
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00:10:52,120 --> 00:10:56,240
Each year, this is the first place
to greet the cold...
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00:10:58,400 --> 00:11:01,160
..and the last to say goodbye.
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00:11:08,960 --> 00:11:11,760
But it's not as deserted
as it seems.
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00:11:18,880 --> 00:11:23,320
Bryn, Thorey and Birna
are no strangers to the cold.
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00:11:25,120 --> 00:11:29,040
These three friends take on
a winter expedition every year.
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00:11:32,000 --> 00:11:35,640
I really love bad weather,
there's something healing in it.
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It's just you against the elements.
It's great.
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00:11:42,920 --> 00:11:46,920
Crossing hundreds of miles
over a single weekend,
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00:11:46,920 --> 00:11:51,160
they set aside any fears to
navigate over hidden rivers...
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..across buried crevasses...
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..and creep beneath
heavy banks of snow.
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00:12:02,080 --> 00:12:07,880
In exchange, they are liberated
from life's usual routines.
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00:12:10,800 --> 00:12:14,200
For me as a woman,
allowing me to have interests,
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00:12:14,200 --> 00:12:17,880
to have something else
than just being a mother
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00:12:17,880 --> 00:12:20,080
and just being a good employer...
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00:12:21,240 --> 00:12:25,360
..I wanted to just put more
adventure into my life.
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00:12:44,400 --> 00:12:46,960
On these trips
they are self-reliant,
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carrying everything they need...
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..and hours away from rescue.
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00:12:56,360 --> 00:12:58,520
I like navigating, and that's my...
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00:12:58,520 --> 00:13:02,000
My strong suit is navigation
and reading maps.
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00:13:03,720 --> 00:13:06,200
Slowly, slowly you build up
the experience...
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00:13:07,600 --> 00:13:09,600
..and you get more confident.
105
00:13:11,440 --> 00:13:15,600
But survival isn't just about
mastering the conditions.
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00:13:17,920 --> 00:13:19,880
It's a feeling of freedom.
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00:13:19,880 --> 00:13:23,360
I think freedom is
the strongest feeling I feel
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00:13:23,360 --> 00:13:25,400
when I travel like this.
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00:13:30,360 --> 00:13:35,800
With daylight fading, their intended
destination comes into view...
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..Iceland's hot springs.
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No trip to the highlands should
be without this vital luxury.
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The hot springs are a treat
all year round,
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but especially so in the wintertime.
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You find a hot spring
and just soak it in and warm up.
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00:14:11,920 --> 00:14:15,640
There are geothermal hot springs
all over Iceland.
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The waters here are 40C
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and rich in minerals thought
to have healing properties.
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00:14:29,000 --> 00:14:31,960
You're a bit tired
after the challenge
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00:14:31,960 --> 00:14:36,680
you've taken on during the day,
and it is the most amazing feeling.
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00:14:38,320 --> 00:14:44,880
These hot springs are known
in Icelandic as Landmannalaugar,
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00:14:44,880 --> 00:14:47,120
'the people's pools'.
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For centuries, they have been used
as a rest spot for weary travellers.
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Little has changed.
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These hot springs are an oasis
in a desert of snow,
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00:15:15,120 --> 00:15:20,560
but humans aren't the only ones here
soaking up the warmth.
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00:15:25,480 --> 00:15:27,520
Hidden amongst the mosses,
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00:15:27,520 --> 00:15:30,720
a surprising creature
stalks the undergrowth.
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00:15:32,160 --> 00:15:33,680
Laugakongulo...
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00:15:34,640 --> 00:15:36,880
..Iceland's pool spider.
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00:15:39,600 --> 00:15:41,960
Only the size of a thumbnail,
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these spiders are amongst the
smallest of the wolf spider family.
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They're found all over the world.
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Normally dormant in the winter...
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00:15:57,280 --> 00:16:00,840
..here they live
a very different life.
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00:16:05,880 --> 00:16:09,240
The constant heat allows
these spiders
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00:16:09,240 --> 00:16:11,200
to defy the seasonal clock...
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00:16:12,840 --> 00:16:16,120
..thriving, even in the middle
of winter.
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00:16:23,680 --> 00:16:26,000
But there are limits even here.
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00:16:26,960 --> 00:16:30,520
Wolf spiders must walk
a perilous line
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00:16:30,520 --> 00:16:34,440
between the worlds of ice and fire.
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00:16:42,560 --> 00:16:46,400
One wrong step means being
boiled alive...
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..or swept away in the current.
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00:16:56,560 --> 00:16:59,320
Not everyone lives
to see the summer.
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00:17:02,880 --> 00:17:05,720
But stray too far
from the hot springs...
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00:17:07,080 --> 00:17:09,880
..and a much colder death awaits.
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00:17:12,560 --> 00:17:16,120
Luckily, their prey
is also marooned.
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00:17:18,480 --> 00:17:21,520
These flies are
hot spring specialists,
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feeding on nutrient-rich algae.
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00:17:35,880 --> 00:17:38,800
Wolf spiders earned their name
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00:17:38,800 --> 00:17:42,080
from their predatory
hunting technique.
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00:17:56,960 --> 00:18:00,440
It's sometimes hard
to see the association.
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00:18:31,320 --> 00:18:34,720
Even the most hopeless spider
gets lucky sometimes.
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They might not be agile hunters,
but in this warm oasis,
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they have the luxury of time.
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00:18:55,280 --> 00:18:59,600
The hot springs across Iceland
are a sanctuary from winter.
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00:19:03,440 --> 00:19:06,640
But the volcanic forces
that have created them...
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..are as powerful
as they are unpredictable.
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00:19:19,200 --> 00:19:21,400
Since the history books began,
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00:19:21,400 --> 00:19:25,840
Iceland has been a land
dominated by ice...
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00:19:26,800 --> 00:19:28,720
..and fire.
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00:19:33,000 --> 00:19:37,560
Though they coexist,
it's fire that reigns here.
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00:19:43,400 --> 00:19:46,160
Iceland has over 100 volcanoes.
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00:19:49,400 --> 00:19:53,160
Magma is the lifeblood
of this island...
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..able to thaw Iceland's
coldest winters
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and unleash ash clouds
that turn day into night.
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00:20:14,600 --> 00:20:17,480
More explosive eruptions
of the past
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might be behind the words
of ancient poetry.
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00:20:22,880 --> 00:20:27,160
Sol ter sortna -
the sun turns black...
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..leikr har hiti -
flames fly high...
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..vid himin sjalfan -
as if against heaven itself.
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00:20:49,920 --> 00:20:56,600
Nowhere else in Scandinavia can the
Earth defy winter with such success.
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00:21:00,680 --> 00:21:04,920
Bur warmth is a distant memory
in the far North.
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00:21:10,080 --> 00:21:12,720
At Scandinavia's extremes,
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00:21:12,720 --> 00:21:18,280
the frozen islands of Svalbard
lie deep inside the Arctic Circle.
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00:21:28,600 --> 00:21:33,000
Here, the brutal winter
has been one long night.
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00:21:36,040 --> 00:21:40,040
But by March,
the sun finally returns.
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00:21:50,440 --> 00:21:56,760
In just one month, the daylight
swings from one hour to 12.
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00:21:58,240 --> 00:22:01,040
Spring has finally begun.
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00:22:08,040 --> 00:22:13,720
The sun's reappearance ignites a
dormant lust in male polar bears.
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00:22:19,960 --> 00:22:25,160
This male is now entirely
devoted to finding a mate.
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00:22:32,280 --> 00:22:36,160
He might have to travel hundreds
of miles to find a female...
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00:22:39,200 --> 00:22:41,760
..and in the vast frozen landscape,
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00:22:41,760 --> 00:22:45,080
there's only one way
to track down romance.
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00:22:46,600 --> 00:22:48,880
He must follow his nose.
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00:22:53,840 --> 00:22:59,080
Scent glands on polar bears' feet
mean that every footstep they leave
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00:22:59,080 --> 00:23:02,520
encodes their identity
on to the ice...
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00:23:13,640 --> 00:23:17,880
..and he's following the faint
footsteps of a female.
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00:23:30,200 --> 00:23:32,680
After days of pursuing her...
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..there she is.
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00:23:48,040 --> 00:23:51,200
Finding her is only
half the challenge.
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00:23:57,280 --> 00:24:01,480
Polar bear courtship
is anything but simple.
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00:24:03,000 --> 00:24:05,280
Males are usually so aggressive
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00:24:05,280 --> 00:24:07,560
that females spend most of the year
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00:24:07,560 --> 00:24:09,880
avoiding them.
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00:24:09,880 --> 00:24:12,240
If he wants to win her trust,
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00:24:12,240 --> 00:24:14,320
he'll need to turn on the charm.
197
00:24:19,040 --> 00:24:22,680
Because it takes so long
for a polar bear couple to meet,
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00:24:22,680 --> 00:24:28,120
her ovulation will only be triggered
after several days of his company.
199
00:24:34,520 --> 00:24:40,240
And it'll take much longer than that
for his efforts to bear any fruit.
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00:24:45,960 --> 00:24:50,160
After a winter alone, he's willing
to take on the challenge.
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00:24:55,720 --> 00:25:00,360
South of Svalbard,
across the freezing Barents Sea,
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00:25:00,360 --> 00:25:05,840
the northern tip of Norway is
a patchwork of tundra and snow.
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00:25:10,360 --> 00:25:13,720
In mid-May,
sunset merges into sunrise
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00:25:13,720 --> 00:25:16,000
for the first time in the year.
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00:25:18,040 --> 00:25:22,160
The sun won't set again
for another eight weeks.
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00:25:25,360 --> 00:25:27,840
It's a silent starting pistol
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00:25:27,840 --> 00:25:30,880
that will transform
the Arctic landscape...
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00:25:32,440 --> 00:25:34,400
..and its animals.
209
00:25:38,520 --> 00:25:42,360
Stunted willows provide
the first nectar of the season...
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00:25:46,800 --> 00:25:50,440
..and a song post for migrant
birds from the south.
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00:25:54,560 --> 00:25:59,200
But the tundra's most extravagant
visitors have just arrived.
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Male ruffs...
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00:26:06,120 --> 00:26:08,440
..desperate for attention.
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00:26:16,000 --> 00:26:18,800
This is a lekking ground.
215
00:26:18,800 --> 00:26:22,640
Here, males defend their own
tiny patch of tundra,
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00:26:22,640 --> 00:26:28,200
performing elaborate dances
to seduce their female audience.
217
00:26:33,840 --> 00:26:36,440
With 24 hours of sunlight,
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00:26:36,440 --> 00:26:39,360
this performance goes on
through the night.
219
00:26:43,360 --> 00:26:48,040
Whenever boundaries are crossed,
fights break out.
220
00:26:59,200 --> 00:27:02,280
But there are some
who don't play by these rules.
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00:27:04,640 --> 00:27:09,080
Ruffs with white feathers
are genetically different.
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00:27:11,040 --> 00:27:13,760
They will never hold
a dancing patch of their own.
223
00:27:18,040 --> 00:27:20,640
They're less aggressive
than the other males...
224
00:27:22,760 --> 00:27:24,920
..and perhaps that's why...
225
00:27:27,120 --> 00:27:30,480
..the dominant dancers
tolerate their presence.
226
00:27:34,720 --> 00:27:39,680
They even co-ordinate dance moves
for a more dazzling display.
227
00:27:52,000 --> 00:27:55,640
But white ruffs have
their own mating strategy.
228
00:27:57,560 --> 00:28:00,800
He'll endure the leading male's ego
229
00:28:00,800 --> 00:28:05,080
if it means he can get a little
closer to the ladies.
230
00:28:07,200 --> 00:28:09,160
But too close...
231
00:28:10,720 --> 00:28:13,360
..and he's quickly
put back in his place.
232
00:28:18,760 --> 00:28:21,200
He'll need to be a little sneakier.
233
00:28:22,920 --> 00:28:26,320
Perhaps he can trick
this orange-maned male?
234
00:28:36,880 --> 00:28:40,320
But he's not the easiest
dancing partner either.
235
00:28:43,560 --> 00:28:45,840
BIRD CHIRPS
236
00:28:48,000 --> 00:28:50,160
An intruder interrupts.
237
00:28:53,560 --> 00:28:55,920
This is his moment.
238
00:29:13,000 --> 00:29:15,720
The white ruff steals the show...
239
00:29:21,200 --> 00:29:24,400
..and there's nothing his
competition can do about it.
240
00:29:31,400 --> 00:29:33,760
He'll take every chance he can get.
241
00:29:35,320 --> 00:29:38,120
And with endless
daylight on his side,
242
00:29:38,120 --> 00:29:40,920
he has plenty of time
to push his luck.
243
00:29:48,400 --> 00:29:51,040
Throughout June,
across Scandinavia...
244
00:29:52,760 --> 00:29:55,040
..as each day grows warmer,
245
00:29:55,040 --> 00:29:58,840
the landscape becomes
almost unrecognisable.
246
00:30:04,680 --> 00:30:07,720
The muted white
of Iceland's highlands
247
00:30:07,720 --> 00:30:10,800
gives way to a kaleidoscope
of colour.
248
00:30:18,800 --> 00:30:23,000
Meltwater braids across
black volcanic sands.
249
00:30:33,480 --> 00:30:39,080
Flowers rush from seed to bloom
in a race against time.
250
00:30:46,040 --> 00:30:50,280
In the ancient Norse calendar,
these weeks of light
251
00:30:50,280 --> 00:30:54,680
were known as Solmanuour,
the sun month.
252
00:31:04,920 --> 00:31:07,080
Even in Svalbard,
253
00:31:07,080 --> 00:31:10,960
the stubborn remnants of winter
are finally overthrown.
254
00:31:13,160 --> 00:31:16,240
The sun is at the height
of her power.
255
00:31:19,240 --> 00:31:23,760
Temperatures climb up from their
winter lows by nearly 30 degrees.
256
00:31:31,080 --> 00:31:33,920
And this world of snow and ice
257
00:31:33,920 --> 00:31:37,960
is unravelling at an
unimaginable pace.
258
00:31:41,120 --> 00:31:45,720
Every year, Svalbard loses
18 billion tonnes of water...
259
00:31:51,200 --> 00:31:55,040
..and much of this water
comes from glaciers.
260
00:31:59,520 --> 00:32:01,480
In recent years,
261
00:32:01,480 --> 00:32:05,640
glaciers across Svalbard
have been behaving strangely.
262
00:32:09,800 --> 00:32:13,240
Scientists know that
the Scandinavian Arctic,
263
00:32:13,240 --> 00:32:17,320
like most of the North,
is undergoing a dramatic change...
264
00:32:24,000 --> 00:32:30,120
..none more so than glaciologists
like Dr Heidi Sevestre.
265
00:32:32,640 --> 00:32:36,800
My job is to study big monsters
of ice, like this guy behind me.
266
00:32:39,800 --> 00:32:42,840
I find glaciers
endlessly fascinating.
267
00:32:44,160 --> 00:32:47,680
They are absolutely beautiful.
They are just mesmerising.
268
00:32:56,760 --> 00:33:00,000
Heidi has been studying glaciers
for over ten years.
269
00:33:05,440 --> 00:33:07,600
Just another day in the office!
270
00:33:12,080 --> 00:33:17,120
Wahlenbergbreen is one of over
2,000 glaciers on Svalbard.
271
00:33:19,480 --> 00:33:23,640
This is a river of ice,
16 miles long,
272
00:33:23,640 --> 00:33:25,880
emptying into the sea.
273
00:33:28,000 --> 00:33:33,160
Glaciers in the Arctic are all being
deeply affected by climate change.
274
00:33:33,160 --> 00:33:36,360
The one we have behind us
is quite a special one.
275
00:33:38,280 --> 00:33:42,440
This glacier, five or six years ago,
was almost completely static.
276
00:33:42,440 --> 00:33:46,880
It was completely dormant.
So slow, nothing was happening here.
277
00:33:46,880 --> 00:33:51,200
And, simply, the glacier started
to wake up and to accelerate.
278
00:33:52,560 --> 00:33:55,680
This is a glacier
that is currently surging.
279
00:33:58,680 --> 00:34:04,200
As the arctic heats up, Svalbard is
experiencing more rain every year...
280
00:34:05,920 --> 00:34:08,320
..which erodes through glaciers,
281
00:34:08,320 --> 00:34:12,040
making them slip faster
towards warming seas
282
00:34:12,040 --> 00:34:14,680
in this process known as surging.
283
00:34:17,480 --> 00:34:20,720
Heidi is here for
the arctic melt season
284
00:34:20,720 --> 00:34:24,960
to find out just how fast
Wahlenbergbreen is moving.
285
00:34:26,800 --> 00:34:30,960
Time-lapse is really a revolution
in the field of glaciology.
286
00:34:30,960 --> 00:34:33,520
Making the invisible visible.
287
00:34:37,120 --> 00:34:40,800
The team leave the time-lapse
cameras running over the summer
288
00:34:40,800 --> 00:34:45,720
to monitor the glacier's movements
before retrieving the footage.
289
00:34:50,480 --> 00:34:52,600
Using the time-lapse footage
290
00:34:52,600 --> 00:34:55,640
and tracking some of the features
in the ice,
291
00:34:55,640 --> 00:34:58,520
it tells us that
the glacier is moving
292
00:34:58,520 --> 00:35:02,160
at about four to five metres
per day,
293
00:35:02,160 --> 00:35:05,400
which is super, super fast
for a glacier of this size.
294
00:35:07,440 --> 00:35:09,800
For scientists like Heidi,
295
00:35:09,800 --> 00:35:12,520
Svalbard is a glimpse
into the future
296
00:35:12,520 --> 00:35:15,280
for places far beyond Scandinavia.
297
00:35:17,560 --> 00:35:21,440
It is very important to have people
to study what is happening here
298
00:35:21,440 --> 00:35:24,160
because it's showing us
what will happen
299
00:35:24,160 --> 00:35:27,040
in the rest of the world
in the decades to come.
300
00:35:30,320 --> 00:35:31,840
Because of climate change,
301
00:35:31,840 --> 00:35:35,840
the Arctic is warming twice as fast
as the rest of the world.
302
00:35:37,080 --> 00:35:40,560
But Svalbard is warming
much faster than that.
303
00:35:42,040 --> 00:35:46,280
We've seen glaciers in Svalbard
that, as the result of a surge,
304
00:35:46,280 --> 00:35:49,840
lost 80% of their entire mass.
305
00:35:50,800 --> 00:35:54,680
That is ice that the glacier
will never recover.
306
00:35:55,640 --> 00:35:57,800
So what we are seeing here
307
00:35:57,800 --> 00:36:00,760
is pretty much like a patient
in intensive care
308
00:36:00,760 --> 00:36:02,920
and all the alarm bells are ringing.
309
00:36:04,320 --> 00:36:08,360
Temperatures here are expected
to warm by over ten degrees
310
00:36:08,360 --> 00:36:11,000
by the end of this century...
311
00:36:11,000 --> 00:36:14,160
..changing Svalbard
beyond recognition.
312
00:36:21,240 --> 00:36:25,480
But Heidi believes there is
still hope for the Arctic.
313
00:36:27,160 --> 00:36:30,640
What's very clear is that you can
never stop an ocean that is rising.
314
00:36:32,880 --> 00:36:36,240
We have all the cards in our hands
today to fight the climate crisis...
315
00:36:38,560 --> 00:36:42,160
..and that makes me incredibly
hopeful for the future.
316
00:36:56,480 --> 00:36:58,400
20,000 years ago,
317
00:36:58,400 --> 00:37:02,040
great sheets of ice covered
the whole of Scandinavia.
318
00:37:05,680 --> 00:37:09,560
Ancient glaciers carved
Norway's mountain valleys.
319
00:37:12,560 --> 00:37:14,560
But in the midday sun...
320
00:37:15,960 --> 00:37:18,720
..the Ice Age is a distant memory.
321
00:37:30,880 --> 00:37:35,720
And the muskoxen of Norway
were not built for this heat.
322
00:37:45,960 --> 00:37:51,320
With two layers of thick fur,
the leader of the herd is suffering.
323
00:37:54,800 --> 00:37:58,800
His rank entitles him
to this harem of females...
324
00:38:00,320 --> 00:38:03,040
..all mothers to calves
that he has fathered.
325
00:38:10,240 --> 00:38:13,800
But this mating privilege
comes with responsibility.
326
00:38:16,680 --> 00:38:20,120
He must protect and lead them
until winter.
327
00:38:22,360 --> 00:38:26,080
They can't stay in the hot,
airless valleys.
328
00:38:29,680 --> 00:38:32,560
Moving to higher ground
brings relief...
329
00:38:33,560 --> 00:38:37,720
..but it also means the muskoxen
scattered across Dovrefjell
330
00:38:37,720 --> 00:38:40,200
are slowly moving closer together...
331
00:38:43,880 --> 00:38:46,800
..an unwelcome prospect
for the male.
332
00:38:50,880 --> 00:38:55,160
Late summer triggers the start
of the muskox rut.
333
00:38:58,960 --> 00:39:03,960
His position of dominance must
be defended in battle every year.
334
00:39:13,000 --> 00:39:14,520
A rival male.
335
00:39:26,320 --> 00:39:30,120
This challenger knows
he is an equal match.
336
00:39:36,120 --> 00:39:39,120
Presenting his broadside
demonstrates his bulk.
337
00:39:42,480 --> 00:39:45,760
The defender won't tolerate
such insolence.
338
00:40:08,080 --> 00:40:11,400
They charge at speeds
over 30mph.
339
00:40:25,320 --> 00:40:28,800
Despite having a skull
thicker than a brick...
340
00:40:28,800 --> 00:40:31,320
..and a brain smaller than a fist...
341
00:40:36,080 --> 00:40:39,280
..these impacts cause
lasting damage.
342
00:40:50,040 --> 00:40:53,040
They're too evenly matched
to end the fight quickly.
343
00:40:56,080 --> 00:41:00,040
Instead, they try to throw
their opponent off balance.
344
00:41:19,760 --> 00:41:22,640
The defending male times it right.
345
00:41:24,960 --> 00:41:27,280
It's enough to finish it.
346
00:41:35,680 --> 00:41:38,080
His legacy is protected...
347
00:41:41,520 --> 00:41:43,080
..for now.
348
00:41:46,000 --> 00:41:50,200
The muskox rut will only end
at the first signs of winter.
349
00:41:54,840 --> 00:41:59,160
Under the glare of the sun,
he'll be tested to his limits.
350
00:42:07,200 --> 00:42:11,240
Other arctic animals
seem to be revelling
351
00:42:11,240 --> 00:42:13,680
in life under the midnight sun.
352
00:42:16,800 --> 00:42:19,880
In Svalbard, freed from sea ice,
353
00:42:19,880 --> 00:42:22,800
the shoreline provides
summer visitors
354
00:42:22,800 --> 00:42:25,840
with round-the-clock
feeding opportunities.
355
00:42:42,600 --> 00:42:46,960
In Hornsund, the arctic's
most numerous sea bird...
356
00:42:48,440 --> 00:42:51,120
..is permanently
dressed for dinner.
357
00:43:04,160 --> 00:43:09,200
This war zone of rock is the
seasonal home of the little auk.
358
00:43:11,200 --> 00:43:13,520
Spending their life at sea,
359
00:43:13,520 --> 00:43:17,280
little auks come on land for
just a few months of the year.
360
00:43:24,680 --> 00:43:29,720
Concealed between the boulders
lies a badly kept secret.
361
00:43:48,800 --> 00:43:51,960
Over 55,000 little auk chicks...
362
00:43:53,160 --> 00:43:55,160
..hiding out of sight.
363
00:43:57,680 --> 00:44:00,440
They need to grow up quickly
and fledge
364
00:44:00,440 --> 00:44:03,440
before the temperature
drops below freezing.
365
00:44:05,600 --> 00:44:07,880
They have just under four weeks.
366
00:44:14,680 --> 00:44:19,360
Little auks mate for life
and his parents are a team,
367
00:44:19,360 --> 00:44:24,440
coordinating daily trips
over 60 miles out to sea
368
00:44:24,440 --> 00:44:27,600
to ensure their chick
is never without food for long.
369
00:44:29,320 --> 00:44:33,240
Raising young like this
is a massive energy investment...
370
00:44:34,480 --> 00:44:37,840
..so each pair will only
have one chick,
371
00:44:37,840 --> 00:44:40,720
one shot at parenting, every year.
372
00:44:43,680 --> 00:44:45,840
But they are devoted to the cause.
373
00:44:50,880 --> 00:44:53,920
Each day, the chick will eat
half its body weight
374
00:44:53,920 --> 00:44:56,320
in energy-rich zooplankton.
375
00:45:01,440 --> 00:45:05,120
When he is not being fed,
he's alone in the nest.
376
00:45:07,680 --> 00:45:10,440
But there is always
someone watching.
377
00:45:13,400 --> 00:45:15,120
Glaucous gulls.
378
00:45:18,520 --> 00:45:20,840
They are ruthless predators.
379
00:45:31,320 --> 00:45:36,200
Suddenly, the nest made of rocks
makes sense.
380
00:45:36,200 --> 00:45:38,440
This is a fortress.
381
00:45:41,440 --> 00:45:43,920
And enemies are everywhere.
382
00:45:58,840 --> 00:46:01,240
As July gives way to August...
383
00:46:03,000 --> 00:46:06,440
..the sun's power in the North
begins to wane.
384
00:46:07,800 --> 00:46:12,400
The temperature on land drops
and fogs roll across the colony,
385
00:46:12,400 --> 00:46:14,880
announcing the end of summer.
386
00:46:21,080 --> 00:46:23,840
It's a warning that time
is running out.
387
00:46:27,040 --> 00:46:30,760
At just two weeks old,
this little auk chick
388
00:46:30,760 --> 00:46:34,400
must begin preparing
for the flight of his life.
389
00:46:38,720 --> 00:46:41,000
But it's too cramped in here.
390
00:46:42,240 --> 00:46:44,040
He'll have to go outside.
391
00:46:50,720 --> 00:46:54,960
The gulls pick off unwary chicks
as they emerge.
392
00:46:56,920 --> 00:46:58,800
Despite the risks,
393
00:46:58,800 --> 00:47:01,840
he needs to exercise his wings
before he can fledge.
394
00:47:10,080 --> 00:47:12,240
This practice is vital.
395
00:47:18,600 --> 00:47:21,400
The gulls ignite terror
in the young chicks...
396
00:47:27,560 --> 00:47:30,080
..but they must continue
their training.
397
00:47:32,200 --> 00:47:36,040
Every fledgling chick has
a guardian for their first flight.
398
00:47:37,720 --> 00:47:40,040
It's a nervous time for any parent.
399
00:47:47,360 --> 00:47:51,760
Once they take off, they will have
to head straight to the open ocean.
400
00:47:53,280 --> 00:47:55,240
There's no turning back.
401
00:47:58,320 --> 00:48:01,280
A young female
is also readying herself.
402
00:48:06,480 --> 00:48:09,120
And with some
imperceptible signal...
403
00:48:12,840 --> 00:48:14,440
..she's gone.
404
00:48:19,720 --> 00:48:23,000
Not everyone can pluck up
the courage so quickly.
405
00:48:29,560 --> 00:48:33,480
Soon, pairs begin disappearing
into the horizon.
406
00:48:50,480 --> 00:48:52,200
True freedom.
407
00:48:54,120 --> 00:48:56,640
And just in time.
408
00:49:12,200 --> 00:49:17,040
By late August, Svalbard's
slopes fall quiet once more.
409
00:49:19,280 --> 00:49:24,600
The sun dips below the horizon for
the first time in over 100 days.
410
00:49:27,240 --> 00:49:30,880
Across Scandinavia,
seasonal visitors depart...
411
00:49:32,760 --> 00:49:34,680
..fleeing the coming winter.
412
00:49:41,200 --> 00:49:45,040
Many who remain
welcome the return of the cold.
413
00:49:47,040 --> 00:49:52,880
Solitary polar bears are once again
free to roam the expanding sea ice.
414
00:49:57,160 --> 00:50:00,560
Muskoxen regroup into
larger herds...
415
00:50:01,800 --> 00:50:03,920
..to face the winter together.
416
00:50:07,080 --> 00:50:11,520
Iceland's foxes wait
for new treasures on the tides.
417
00:50:13,360 --> 00:50:18,280
Over the next few weeks, the daily
temperature drops to -10C...
418
00:50:21,320 --> 00:50:25,920
..and the sun finally surrenders
to the polar night.
419
00:50:35,920 --> 00:50:38,000
The team spent a year
420
00:50:38,000 --> 00:50:41,560
filming in Scandinavia's
most extreme environments,
421
00:50:41,560 --> 00:50:47,440
capturing some of its toughest
and strangest characters.
422
00:50:47,440 --> 00:50:49,800
But no shoot took the team further
423
00:50:49,800 --> 00:50:54,120
than a trip to the High Arctic
islands of Svalbard
424
00:50:54,120 --> 00:50:57,640
to film little auk chicks
learning to fly.
425
00:51:01,200 --> 00:51:03,240
It's just unbelievable,
you know.
426
00:51:03,240 --> 00:51:05,120
The sounds are just amazing.
427
00:51:05,120 --> 00:51:07,800
You get, like, these big swooshes
as they go over you.
428
00:51:07,800 --> 00:51:09,600
It just sounds like the wind.
429
00:51:09,600 --> 00:51:13,800
It's just so beautiful and electric,
I'm just kind of in awe.
430
00:51:13,800 --> 00:51:16,440
To match the colony's peak activity,
431
00:51:16,440 --> 00:51:19,720
the crew must work
during the night hours.
432
00:51:19,720 --> 00:51:22,360
It's almost midnight.
433
00:51:22,360 --> 00:51:24,000
It's beautiful.
434
00:51:28,880 --> 00:51:31,000
I think the biggest challenge for me
435
00:51:31,000 --> 00:51:33,960
will be the fact there's just so
much going on.
436
00:51:35,400 --> 00:51:37,560
But the crew have help at hand.
437
00:51:38,840 --> 00:51:43,800
Kasia Wojczulanis-Jakubas, from
the University of Gdansk in Poland,
438
00:51:43,800 --> 00:51:47,920
has been studying little auks
for almost 20 years.
439
00:51:47,920 --> 00:51:50,160
Part of me treats them
as data points...
440
00:51:53,160 --> 00:51:56,800
..parts of me treat them like,
I don't know, not even like pets,
441
00:51:56,800 --> 00:51:59,200
but like family members.
442
00:51:59,200 --> 00:52:01,240
Every summer, Kasia and her team
443
00:52:01,240 --> 00:52:05,280
monitor the behaviour and health
of the little auks,
444
00:52:05,280 --> 00:52:09,680
giving Declan a chance to meet
one of this year's chicks.
445
00:52:10,680 --> 00:52:12,440
So how old's this little guy?
446
00:52:12,440 --> 00:52:15,040
Two weeks old.
Do they grow pretty quick?
447
00:52:15,040 --> 00:52:17,760
How long do they have until
they've got to leave the nest?
448
00:52:17,760 --> 00:52:20,520
They need three weeks
to be fully developed
449
00:52:20,520 --> 00:52:23,000
and then to fledge
it's like four weeks.
450
00:52:25,720 --> 00:52:28,480
Good luck, little fella.
I really hope you make it.
451
00:52:30,520 --> 00:52:32,440
DECLAN CHUCKLES
452
00:52:34,480 --> 00:52:35,920
They're so cute.
453
00:52:37,600 --> 00:52:42,080
In return, the crew are hoping
to help Kasia see the chicks
454
00:52:42,080 --> 00:52:44,600
as she has never seen them before.
455
00:52:44,600 --> 00:52:48,240
So I am just fitting this
nest camera into the nest,
456
00:52:48,240 --> 00:52:51,600
so we can get a view of the chick
as he grows.
457
00:52:56,000 --> 00:52:58,400
This is our view.
458
00:52:58,400 --> 00:53:00,880
Oh, yeah, there is a chick.
There's chick.
459
00:53:00,880 --> 00:53:02,840
Oh, so cool.
460
00:53:02,840 --> 00:53:05,840
And it seems one of
the chicks isn't alone.
461
00:53:05,840 --> 00:53:08,080
There was another chick!
462
00:53:08,080 --> 00:53:10,400
Come on, there is another nest!
463
00:53:10,400 --> 00:53:13,040
So they're neighbours,
those little chicks!
464
00:53:13,040 --> 00:53:16,640
That one just pooed right into his
nest, which is very impolite.
465
00:53:16,640 --> 00:53:18,400
That's amazing.
466
00:53:18,400 --> 00:53:20,520
The nest density is so big.
Yeah, yeah.
467
00:53:20,520 --> 00:53:23,200
This is so unexpected.
468
00:53:23,200 --> 00:53:24,640
Oh, so cool.
469
00:53:25,920 --> 00:53:28,320
After a week under the midnight sun,
470
00:53:28,320 --> 00:53:30,560
the crew are making
great progress...
471
00:53:34,680 --> 00:53:37,640
..and attracting interest
from the locals.
472
00:53:47,760 --> 00:53:50,200
We've got distracted
from the little auks
473
00:53:50,200 --> 00:53:53,720
because an arctic fox
has just been terrorising reindeer.
474
00:53:56,000 --> 00:53:58,960
A* entertainment
from the Arctic Tundra.
475
00:54:02,920 --> 00:54:06,960
As another filming night ends,
time is ticking for the crew
476
00:54:06,960 --> 00:54:10,360
to capture the moment
a chick first takes wing.
477
00:54:10,360 --> 00:54:12,280
It's coming up to 5am now.
478
00:54:12,280 --> 00:54:14,640
So we've got about five nights left,
479
00:54:14,640 --> 00:54:18,640
and hopefully he'll fledge in time
because he's late!
480
00:54:19,960 --> 00:54:22,480
And Kasia's observations
are suggesting
481
00:54:22,480 --> 00:54:24,560
not everything is right
in the colony.
482
00:54:25,960 --> 00:54:29,720
Working here for almost 20 years,
I can really say that this year
483
00:54:29,720 --> 00:54:32,480
is very, very different
from the others.
484
00:54:32,480 --> 00:54:34,960
They started to breed
the earliest ever.
485
00:54:37,480 --> 00:54:39,360
And then, apparently,
486
00:54:39,360 --> 00:54:42,560
they struggle a lot to get food
to all their chicks
487
00:54:42,560 --> 00:54:45,360
and it seems like they travel
really, really far.
488
00:54:45,360 --> 00:54:47,640
So it's like 100km.
489
00:54:47,640 --> 00:54:50,160
That's so much energy
they're using. Yes, it is.
490
00:54:51,120 --> 00:54:55,720
The most nutritious food can
only be found in cold Arctic waters
491
00:54:55,720 --> 00:54:59,560
that are becoming harder
to reach in a warming world.
492
00:55:01,960 --> 00:55:06,920
100km per mouthful
is a big ask for a tiny bird.
493
00:55:09,560 --> 00:55:12,280
So they could keep struggling
year on year? Yeah, yeah.
494
00:55:12,280 --> 00:55:15,520
You will always have better and
worse seasons, but the thing is,
495
00:55:15,520 --> 00:55:18,960
these worse seasons, they happen to
be more and more frequent,
496
00:55:18,960 --> 00:55:23,320
and this is very likely to be
an effect of this climate change.
497
00:55:28,720 --> 00:55:31,040
The weather takes a turn
for the worse...
498
00:55:33,720 --> 00:55:37,040
..and the crew must retreat
to the research station.
499
00:55:40,160 --> 00:55:42,400
All they can do is wait.
500
00:55:44,600 --> 00:55:46,480
The headphones are going back on.
501
00:55:48,480 --> 00:55:50,160
The next evening,
502
00:55:50,160 --> 00:55:53,280
a break in the weather
brings a change in atmosphere.
503
00:55:57,280 --> 00:56:00,040
All of a sudden,
it just seems a bit different.
504
00:56:00,040 --> 00:56:03,840
The colony, they're a bit more...
Yeah.
505
00:56:03,840 --> 00:56:09,280
It's 8pm, and the crew spot
a chick that's looking ready.
506
00:56:09,280 --> 00:56:12,800
I really think these two
are hyping up for something.
507
00:56:12,800 --> 00:56:14,280
They should go tonight.
508
00:56:14,280 --> 00:56:17,040
Shall we just sit tight on them?
Yeah, yeah, I think so.
509
00:56:19,080 --> 00:56:22,120
To be in with a chance
of capturing the moment,
510
00:56:22,120 --> 00:56:25,000
the crew must focus on one chick.
511
00:56:25,000 --> 00:56:28,760
He could fly any second,
but it's a big gamble.
512
00:56:29,960 --> 00:56:32,320
He's just biding his time,
isn't he? Mmm.
513
00:56:34,160 --> 00:56:36,160
There's going to be hours of this.
514
00:56:37,160 --> 00:56:40,080
Yeah. This guy's nervous.
I'm nervous too, actually.
515
00:56:40,080 --> 00:56:42,160
You would be nervous though,
wouldn't you?
516
00:57:03,080 --> 00:57:06,120
I know it's a nerve-racking time
but you've got to do it.
517
00:57:06,120 --> 00:57:07,720
Bite the bullet.
518
00:57:09,560 --> 00:57:11,880
After seven long hours...
519
00:57:14,320 --> 00:57:15,840
Ooh! Ooh!
520
00:57:18,520 --> 00:57:21,000
..they finally have their shot.
521
00:57:26,480 --> 00:57:28,320
Whoa! That was stressful.
522
00:57:28,320 --> 00:57:30,080
All right, let's find
the next one, then!
523
00:57:30,080 --> 00:57:31,480
HE LAUGHS
524
00:57:31,480 --> 00:57:33,600
It's four in the morning,
isn't it? Yeah, it is.
525
00:57:36,800 --> 00:57:40,640
With chicks fledging in their droves
and more shots in the can...
526
00:57:40,640 --> 00:57:44,000
Yeah, so cool!
527
00:57:44,000 --> 00:57:46,320
Perfect angle, perfect moment!
528
00:57:46,320 --> 00:57:49,240
..it's finally time
for the crew to leave.
529
00:57:49,240 --> 00:57:51,040
The little auks, I loved them.
530
00:57:51,040 --> 00:57:55,240
I loved watching them
finally have the courage.
531
00:57:55,240 --> 00:57:58,160
I'm definitely going to miss
this place. It's very special.
532
00:57:58,160 --> 00:58:02,360
I feel really quite attached
to the fledglings.
533
00:58:02,360 --> 00:58:04,360
When we've been watching them go,
534
00:58:04,360 --> 00:58:07,600
I can't help but wonder
how scary it must be
535
00:58:07,600 --> 00:58:12,160
to go from your safe little nest
to the wide open ocean.
536
00:58:12,160 --> 00:58:16,040
Tonight is quite a good example
of Svalbard's famous fogs,
537
00:58:16,040 --> 00:58:19,000
So it's kind of nature's way
of telling you to leave,
538
00:58:19,000 --> 00:58:22,080
and that's obviously
what the little auks are doing.
539
00:58:22,080 --> 00:58:23,720
And us, too!
70571
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