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In the far north of Europe
is a land steeped in myth.
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00:00:08,720 --> 00:00:10,480
The realm of Thor...
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00:00:12,320 --> 00:00:13,720
..and Odin.
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00:00:17,200 --> 00:00:19,600
From Norway's frozen wilderness...
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00:00:22,120 --> 00:00:25,400
..deep into magical Swedish forests.
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00:00:28,280 --> 00:00:31,680
Across Denmark's windswept shores...
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00:00:34,200 --> 00:00:37,640
..to explosive Icelandic volcanoes.
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00:00:40,320 --> 00:00:43,280
Scandinavia's breathtaking
landscapes...
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00:00:47,760 --> 00:00:50,040
..have shaped its people...
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00:00:58,440 --> 00:01:00,800
..and its wildlife.
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00:01:07,320 --> 00:01:09,040
Where the land meets the sea...
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00:01:11,480 --> 00:01:13,720
..there are great gatherings
of life.
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00:01:15,720 --> 00:01:19,040
But also many challenges.
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00:01:24,640 --> 00:01:27,640
Only the tough and
the resourceful...
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..can carve out a life...
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..on this wild,
unpredictable frontier.
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00:01:55,880 --> 00:01:59,440
As Scandinavia emerged
from the last Ice Age,
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a spectacular coastline
was revealed...
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00:02:03,880 --> 00:02:08,240
..reaching out into the turbulent
Arctic and Atlantic oceans.
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00:02:10,360 --> 00:02:14,920
But our journey begins in the more
sheltered Baltic Sea.
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00:02:31,280 --> 00:02:33,240
Off the coast of Sweden,
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30,000 islands stretch far out
into these icy waters.
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00:02:40,320 --> 00:02:42,160
And at the outer fringes,
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this skerry has some new arrivals.
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Over 1,000 grey seal pups.
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00:03:02,760 --> 00:03:04,640
They may look laid back,
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00:03:04,640 --> 00:03:08,480
but they're all in a perilous race
against time.
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00:03:09,520 --> 00:03:12,040
PUP SNORTS
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00:03:13,160 --> 00:03:15,680
Just 18 days after being born,
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00:03:15,680 --> 00:03:18,040
they will be abandoned
by their mothers.
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00:03:20,920 --> 00:03:25,000
Before that moment, to have
the best chance of survival,
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the pups need to quadruple
their body weight.
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Glugging three litres of super-rich
milk a day builds up blubber -
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a vital energy store and
protective insulation.
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THUNDERCLAP
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00:03:46,120 --> 00:03:48,200
On this exposed coast,
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00:03:48,200 --> 00:03:50,760
fortunes can change in an instant.
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00:03:59,200 --> 00:04:02,920
As the swell builds ahead
of a late spring storm,
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00:04:02,920 --> 00:04:05,360
pups that linger too close
to the edge
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00:04:05,360 --> 00:04:07,600
are vulnerable to rogue waves.
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00:04:27,000 --> 00:04:29,320
The storm takes a terrible toll.
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Pups washed into the sea quickly
succumb to the cold.
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In the Baltic,
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up to half of all pups don't make
it through their first year.
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The squall has left the shoreline
treacherously icy.
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But with so few days together,
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crucial life lessons
can't be put off.
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00:05:02,960 --> 00:05:06,440
This pup needs to improve
his swimming skills.
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00:05:12,160 --> 00:05:14,240
And Mum needs to be on her guard.
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BULL GROWLS
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Aggressive bull seals skulk
around the shoreline,
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on the lookout for a mate.
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The water is dangerously cold
for the pup
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as his fur offers little insulation.
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So this must be a quick dip.
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She stays close.
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BULL SNARLS
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00:06:01,000 --> 00:06:03,040
But then a sneaky male intrudes.
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00:06:18,880 --> 00:06:22,040
Instinct drives the pup
towards shore.
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00:06:29,760 --> 00:06:32,120
But the way is blocked
by another male.
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00:06:42,480 --> 00:06:44,520
Forced back into the surf,
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the pup is swept away.
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00:07:09,240 --> 00:07:12,320
Amongst the slosh, a sign of life.
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00:07:18,720 --> 00:07:20,560
Washed into a cove,
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this pup has been lucky.
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00:07:23,040 --> 00:07:24,400
PUP WHINES
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But his ordeal is far from over.
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00:07:32,560 --> 00:07:35,000
Spurred on by his mother's calls,
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he slowly claws his way
over the ice to safety.
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Reunited,
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it's time for a warming feed.
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00:08:05,640 --> 00:08:10,320
These devoted mothers have not
eaten since giving birth,
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sacrificing a third of their
body weight to give their pups
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the best start in life.
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Now starving,
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they must abandon their pups
and return to the sea to feed.
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00:08:32,000 --> 00:08:34,000
One last look,
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00:08:34,000 --> 00:08:35,400
and she's gone.
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00:08:35,400 --> 00:08:38,960
PUP WHINES
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Too young to follow,
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00:08:45,480 --> 00:08:47,880
the deserted pups head inland.
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Here, they stay for several weeks,
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living entirely off
their blubber reserves.
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They shed their white fur and
grow a shorter waterproof coat.
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An outward sign of
miraculous changes
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happening to their bodies
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as they transform into
seagoing youngsters.
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00:09:25,000 --> 00:09:29,000
Finally, they're ready
to take the plunge
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00:09:29,000 --> 00:09:32,760
and leave these ancient
granite islands behind.
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00:09:36,520 --> 00:09:42,040
Further south, rocky shores give way
to ever-shifting sands.
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00:09:50,680 --> 00:09:53,000
This stretch of Denmark's coast
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is part of the largest tidal flats
on the planet.
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Over 500 square miles
of silt and mud
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reshaped and revealed
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00:10:04,000 --> 00:10:06,880
with the ebb and flow of each tide.
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00:10:08,760 --> 00:10:12,600
It's a vital refuelling stop
for millions of birds
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00:10:12,600 --> 00:10:16,200
on their annual migration
to the Arctic to breed.
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00:10:20,160 --> 00:10:22,000
Mingling with the locals,
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00:10:22,000 --> 00:10:25,000
these travellers are drawn here
by a smorgasbord
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00:10:25,000 --> 00:10:27,400
of delicacies buried in the mud.
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00:10:29,720 --> 00:10:33,000
And these worms, clams
and crustaceans
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are best gathered as the flats
are exposed by the falling tide.
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00:10:40,120 --> 00:10:44,200
Each bird has its own unique way
to harvest the hidden feast.
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00:10:47,120 --> 00:10:49,480
Avocets sweep the silt,
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snagging worms and shrimps.
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00:10:54,440 --> 00:10:56,800
With their long, straight bills,
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00:10:56,800 --> 00:10:59,480
godwits probe the deeper mud.
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00:11:01,760 --> 00:11:05,000
Whilst red knot patrol
the tide lines,
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hunting for clams to swallow whole.
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00:11:14,680 --> 00:11:19,120
The feasting continues
until the tide turns.
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00:11:24,360 --> 00:11:26,480
Then, as the water rises...
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00:11:28,000 --> 00:11:31,000
..food is once again submerged,
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beyond the reach of
the longest beaks.
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00:11:41,160 --> 00:11:45,160
Buffet over, they take to the air
in their thousands...
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..finding safety in these
shape-shifting crowds.
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For a few weeks,
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they are slaves to the rhythm
of the tides...
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..before resuming their journeys.
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00:12:21,280 --> 00:12:25,680
Heading north, many will
pass over Skagen Point
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at the very tip of Denmark.
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Here, water funnelling
out of the Baltic
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meets the tidal surges
of the North Sea.
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00:12:41,600 --> 00:12:45,320
Together, they give rise
to a new force,
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00:12:45,320 --> 00:12:48,000
the Norwegian Current,
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00:12:48,000 --> 00:12:51,000
which powers its way
towards Scandinavia's
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most spectacular coast.
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00:12:58,280 --> 00:13:00,320
The Norwegian fjords.
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00:13:07,840 --> 00:13:09,440
Long, twisting canyons
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00:13:09,440 --> 00:13:14,000
formed when glacier-carved valleys
flooded with sea water
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at the end of the last Ice Age.
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00:13:20,440 --> 00:13:22,520
While, according to legend,
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these rocks are the bones of Ymir,
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a giant slain by
the Norse god Odin.
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00:13:33,400 --> 00:13:37,800
Some fjords reach over
100 miles inland,
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00:13:37,800 --> 00:13:42,040
with sheer walls rising
over 1,000 metres.
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00:13:45,640 --> 00:13:49,320
This rugged coastline nurtured
the Viking traditions
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of seafaring and exploration.
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Someone continuing that
same spirit of adventure
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is Hege Ringard.
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00:14:12,680 --> 00:14:15,040
I'm mentally prepared
the whole hike.
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00:14:17,000 --> 00:14:20,880
It's one thing I definitely like,
being on mountains,
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00:14:20,880 --> 00:14:22,920
is that they're massive
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and I'm this little...lady,
like, walking around there.
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And you're vulnerable.
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00:14:30,920 --> 00:14:34,840
Many Norwegians embrace
the idea of friluftsliv,
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00:14:34,840 --> 00:14:36,800
a passion for the outdoors.
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00:14:38,800 --> 00:14:42,040
But Hege takes this tradition
to the extreme.
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00:14:52,800 --> 00:14:54,360
Walking to the edge,
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I focus on my breathing.
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00:14:59,000 --> 00:15:02,240
I am very much in the moment.
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00:15:06,600 --> 00:15:10,160
She needs to be totally in tune
with the elements.
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00:15:10,160 --> 00:15:13,000
Her life depends on correctly
reading the wind
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00:15:13,000 --> 00:15:14,040
and the weather.
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00:15:16,000 --> 00:15:18,760
You can never really trust
the weather forecast,
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00:15:18,760 --> 00:15:21,520
but you can trust what you see
right in front of you.
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00:15:23,440 --> 00:15:27,640
What you can see right away
is the waterfalls.
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00:15:27,640 --> 00:15:30,000
How are they falling? Straight down?
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Or are they moving a lot?
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00:15:33,400 --> 00:15:35,640
And that could be a good hint
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00:15:35,640 --> 00:15:38,800
that maybe it's a good day
to go base jumping.
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I clap.
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My body and my brain is,
like, working together,
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and the clap is like a
little wake-up thing.
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And then I jump.
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00:16:14,080 --> 00:16:18,720
Slowly, the wings will
fill up with air.
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It's like this soft, sweet emotion.
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It doesn't feel that fast, actually.
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It's like an enjoy-the-view
kind of thing.
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00:16:36,320 --> 00:16:37,760
And get off the mountain.
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00:16:48,360 --> 00:16:52,560
Norway has more fjords than
anywhere else on the planet.
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Their twists and turns
add over 16,000 miles
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to Scandinavia's coastline.
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So Hege has endless possibilities
to satisfy her obsession.
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It's such a cool way to
go up on the mountain
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and then fly off of it.
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It feels like a privilege.
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Thinking about just being there
in the moment.
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I'm not thinking about
what's for dinner later.
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I'm just enjoying it.
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Being out there just
makes me feel good.
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So that's why I keep going back
again and again.
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Where the fjords spill out
towards the open sea...
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..tides churn the shallow water
into a plankton-rich soup.
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A hunting ground of some
voracious predators.
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00:19:14,000 --> 00:19:16,160
Lion's mane jellyfish.
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00:19:19,760 --> 00:19:22,560
With a dome up to a metre across,
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00:19:22,560 --> 00:19:27,000
these giants trail hundreds
of delicate tentacles
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to trap plankton and fish.
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Up to 30 metres long,
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each tentacle is packed
with stinging cells
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that fire when touched,
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paralysing their victims.
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00:19:46,560 --> 00:19:52,040
But some have turned these deadly
tripwires into a safety net.
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00:19:58,880 --> 00:20:03,000
Whiting fry seem immune
to the jellyfish stings,
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00:20:03,000 --> 00:20:05,200
which gives these
hitchhikers a refuge
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from other predators.
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00:20:14,720 --> 00:20:16,640
When conditions are right,
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00:20:16,640 --> 00:20:19,440
jellyfish numbers can explode.
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00:20:21,400 --> 00:20:26,240
Gathered into seasonal swarms
by the swirling tides,
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00:20:26,240 --> 00:20:28,400
they drift north with the current.
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00:20:38,800 --> 00:20:41,120
For the next 500 miles,
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the mainland is protected from
the turbulent Atlantic
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by thousands of small islands.
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00:20:49,320 --> 00:20:52,160
Behind this natural storm barrier,
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there are calmer waters.
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00:20:56,480 --> 00:21:01,520
Stronghold of one of Scandinavia's
most iconic creatures.
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The white-tailed sea eagle,
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riding on massive 2.5 metre wings.
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00:21:17,720 --> 00:21:21,000
Odin was said to transform
into an eagle
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to survey his realm.
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00:21:24,760 --> 00:21:29,040
And these sharp-eyed opportunists
don't miss a trick.
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00:21:30,360 --> 00:21:33,040
EAGLE SQUAWKS
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00:21:34,600 --> 00:21:38,160
Swooping down at 40mph,
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00:21:38,160 --> 00:21:40,880
they must time their grab
to perfection.
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00:21:56,840 --> 00:22:00,400
Curved talons and spiny scales
on their toes
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00:22:00,400 --> 00:22:02,560
help grip slippery fish.
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00:22:13,760 --> 00:22:16,360
Catching a fish is one thing.
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00:22:16,360 --> 00:22:18,760
Keeping hold of it quite another.
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00:22:28,000 --> 00:22:30,600
Distinguished by its mottled tail,
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00:22:30,600 --> 00:22:33,120
this young sea eagle is
pushing his luck...
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EAGLE YELPS
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00:22:38,560 --> 00:22:41,320
..but has little chance
against the flying skills
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00:22:41,320 --> 00:22:42,360
of an adult.
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00:22:48,520 --> 00:22:51,920
Whilst youngsters are perfecting
their fishing technique,
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00:22:51,920 --> 00:22:55,040
piracy is a short cut
to a full stomach.
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00:23:01,800 --> 00:23:05,000
Especially when the victim
is another juvenile
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00:23:05,000 --> 00:23:09,040
more easily intimidated
into dropping its catch.
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00:23:25,800 --> 00:23:29,320
A fish can be won and lost
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00:23:29,320 --> 00:23:32,320
many times in the chaos of a chase.
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00:24:07,480 --> 00:24:10,240
And things don't always go to plan.
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00:24:18,360 --> 00:24:20,800
These novices still
have a lot to learn
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00:24:20,800 --> 00:24:23,640
before they match up
to an adult eagle.
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00:24:32,360 --> 00:24:34,000
In the last century,
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00:24:34,000 --> 00:24:37,640
these majestic eagles were
almost hunted to extinction.
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00:24:43,640 --> 00:24:46,200
Now protected across Norway,
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00:24:46,200 --> 00:24:50,440
the population has grown to
over 6,000 mature birds.
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00:24:52,000 --> 00:24:55,360
Which means there's little chance
of a quiet meal
238
00:24:55,360 --> 00:24:59,440
as gangs of hungry youngsters
gate-crash the party.
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00:25:17,000 --> 00:25:20,560
These boisterous juveniles
will spend several years
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00:25:20,560 --> 00:25:24,520
wandering the coast before
finding a place of their own.
241
00:25:31,880 --> 00:25:36,400
Whilst sea eagles seldom leave
this maze of inlets and islands,
242
00:25:36,400 --> 00:25:41,160
the search for fish takes others
far out into the North Atlantic.
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00:25:41,160 --> 00:25:44,800
BIRDS SQUAWK
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00:25:56,720 --> 00:26:00,480
Captain Kjartan Gudmundsson
commands the Drangavik
245
00:26:00,480 --> 00:26:03,000
and her ten-man crew
246
00:26:03,000 --> 00:26:05,880
as they trawl for cod off
the coast of Iceland.
247
00:26:08,720 --> 00:26:11,320
After being heavily overfished,
248
00:26:11,320 --> 00:26:14,480
careful management and strict quotas
249
00:26:14,480 --> 00:26:17,600
means this fishery is now
considered sustainable.
250
00:26:22,000 --> 00:26:24,240
Fishing is in the captain's blood.
251
00:26:49,840 --> 00:26:52,560
The open ocean is unforgiving.
252
00:26:59,560 --> 00:27:02,520
But the crew must set
and retrieve the net
253
00:27:02,520 --> 00:27:03,680
whatever the weather.
254
00:27:36,000 --> 00:27:38,000
Even with the latest technology,
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00:27:38,000 --> 00:27:41,280
it takes all his experience
to put the Drangavik
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00:27:41,280 --> 00:27:43,680
in the right place
at the right time.
257
00:27:46,000 --> 00:27:50,000
Just three successful trawls
can fill the ship's hold
258
00:27:50,000 --> 00:27:53,040
and allows Kjartan to
set course for home.
259
00:27:58,640 --> 00:28:01,000
The richness of these
offshore waters
260
00:28:01,000 --> 00:28:03,240
owes much to a powerful current
261
00:28:03,240 --> 00:28:06,600
that sweeps across the Atlantic
from the tropics.
262
00:28:11,000 --> 00:28:15,760
Every second, the Gulf Stream
delivers nine million tonnes
263
00:28:15,760 --> 00:28:20,000
of warm water into
these northern seas -
264
00:28:20,000 --> 00:28:22,720
enough heat to keep
sea temperatures
265
00:28:22,720 --> 00:28:24,480
along the Norwegian coast
266
00:28:24,480 --> 00:28:27,720
much warmer than other places
on the same latitude.
267
00:28:32,560 --> 00:28:36,240
The Lofoten Islands
are over 100 miles
268
00:28:36,240 --> 00:28:38,040
inside the Arctic Circle.
269
00:28:39,320 --> 00:28:42,680
Yet, here, the sea never freezes.
270
00:28:45,280 --> 00:28:47,840
Communities cling to
the narrow shores.
271
00:28:51,000 --> 00:28:55,040
Huddled around inlets that offer
safe haven all year round.
272
00:28:59,680 --> 00:29:03,280
Most coastlines this far north
will be locked in ice
273
00:29:03,280 --> 00:29:04,480
for six months.
274
00:29:09,720 --> 00:29:12,360
But warmed by the Gulf Stream,
275
00:29:12,360 --> 00:29:15,600
winter sea temperatures here
are kept a few degrees
276
00:29:15,600 --> 00:29:17,000
above freezing.
277
00:29:23,320 --> 00:29:27,720
Just enough to support some
surprisingly busy sea life.
278
00:29:32,680 --> 00:29:36,120
Sea cucumbers emerge to
feed in the current.
279
00:29:44,480 --> 00:29:48,560
They trap plankton and algae
in their feathery tentacles.
280
00:29:51,800 --> 00:29:56,040
Each taking turns to push food
into its central mouth.
281
00:30:03,000 --> 00:30:06,640
Starfish gather together
in large numbers.
282
00:30:11,560 --> 00:30:15,840
On cue, they raise themselves up
on tiptoes.
283
00:30:22,600 --> 00:30:25,000
Standing tall in the current,
284
00:30:25,000 --> 00:30:28,440
they synchronously
shed millions of eggs
285
00:30:28,440 --> 00:30:30,040
and clouds of sperm.
286
00:30:32,320 --> 00:30:34,800
These mix in the swirling water
287
00:30:34,800 --> 00:30:37,520
before the fertilised eggs
and larvae
288
00:30:37,520 --> 00:30:39,560
are carried away with the flow.
289
00:30:55,080 --> 00:30:58,680
Through the winter, the Gulf Stream
keeps the sea from freezing.
290
00:31:01,520 --> 00:31:05,800
But its heat doesn't reach far
into some northern fjords.
291
00:31:13,160 --> 00:31:15,600
Where rivers drain
into these inlets,
292
00:31:15,600 --> 00:31:18,400
the cold, fresh water can freeze,
293
00:31:18,400 --> 00:31:21,280
forming a shelf of ice.
294
00:31:30,000 --> 00:31:32,840
A welcome hunting platform
for an otter.
295
00:31:38,520 --> 00:31:40,760
And it's landed a prize catch.
296
00:31:46,000 --> 00:31:49,720
But out on the ice,
this otter is exposed.
297
00:31:55,720 --> 00:31:59,520
OTTER SNARLS
EAGLE YELPS
298
00:31:59,520 --> 00:32:02,600
A young sea eagle up
to its old tricks.
299
00:32:06,760 --> 00:32:08,720
Time to take evasive action...
300
00:32:09,880 --> 00:32:11,560
..until the coast is clear.
301
00:32:18,800 --> 00:32:21,400
These Norwegian otters
live further north
302
00:32:21,400 --> 00:32:23,160
than any others on the planet.
303
00:32:25,720 --> 00:32:29,000
Benefiting from the relatively
mild climate
304
00:32:29,000 --> 00:32:33,040
and the wealth of sea life
nurtured by the Gulf Stream...
305
00:32:34,680 --> 00:32:37,280
..these otters survive
hundreds of miles
306
00:32:37,280 --> 00:32:39,040
inside the Arctic Circle.
307
00:32:50,560 --> 00:32:54,560
Lofoten fishermen exploit
the unique local climate
308
00:32:54,560 --> 00:32:57,480
to preserve their catch
of spring cod.
309
00:33:06,600 --> 00:33:10,120
During the annual Lofotfiske season,
310
00:33:10,120 --> 00:33:13,440
fish are hung out to dry
on huge wooden racks.
311
00:33:20,240 --> 00:33:23,720
These fillets and fish heads
don't need smoke or salt
312
00:33:23,720 --> 00:33:26,000
to preserve them
313
00:33:26,000 --> 00:33:28,480
because the Gulf Stream
keeps the air temperature
314
00:33:28,480 --> 00:33:29,840
just stable enough...
315
00:33:31,000 --> 00:33:33,000
..to stop them from rotting
316
00:33:33,000 --> 00:33:35,240
as they dry in the sun and wind.
317
00:33:43,480 --> 00:33:47,560
It's a 1,000-year-old tradition
dating back to the Vikings
318
00:33:47,560 --> 00:33:51,640
who traded these dried fish
all over southern Europe.
319
00:33:51,640 --> 00:33:55,040
RACKS CREAK
320
00:33:57,720 --> 00:34:00,000
By the end of the season,
321
00:34:00,000 --> 00:34:03,000
these racks will be groaning
under the weight
322
00:34:03,000 --> 00:34:05,040
of thousands of tonnes of fish.
323
00:34:07,680 --> 00:34:11,360
The riches of this coast
destined to be shipped
324
00:34:11,360 --> 00:34:12,760
all around the world.
325
00:34:21,840 --> 00:34:25,200
Journeying to the very north
of mainland Scandinavia,
326
00:34:25,200 --> 00:34:29,440
the coast becomes wilder and
even more unpredictable.
327
00:34:41,680 --> 00:34:44,360
The Gulf Stream meets its match
328
00:34:44,360 --> 00:34:47,400
as it comes up against
the chilling Arctic Ocean.
329
00:34:52,000 --> 00:34:56,320
This powerful collision can
generate violent storms,
330
00:34:56,320 --> 00:35:00,400
massive surges that churn up
nutrients from the deep.
331
00:35:09,160 --> 00:35:12,240
After spending the winter
far out to sea,
332
00:35:12,240 --> 00:35:15,760
tens of thousands of
sea birds converge
333
00:35:15,760 --> 00:35:17,640
on the island of Hornoya.
334
00:35:20,160 --> 00:35:22,880
It's the bounty of these waters
that support
335
00:35:22,880 --> 00:35:24,680
such ravenous gatherings.
336
00:35:27,720 --> 00:35:30,040
Huge rafts ride the swell...
337
00:35:32,000 --> 00:35:34,800
..until it's time to make landfall
338
00:35:34,800 --> 00:35:37,240
to nest and raise their chicks.
339
00:35:43,000 --> 00:35:46,680
This is one of Scandinavia's
most magnificent
340
00:35:46,680 --> 00:35:48,320
wildlife spectacles.
341
00:36:03,800 --> 00:36:07,840
While 30,000 guillemots
pour in to claim a pitch
342
00:36:07,840 --> 00:36:10,520
on the narrow ledges,
343
00:36:10,520 --> 00:36:14,120
puffins head for the
windswept lower slopes.
344
00:36:36,080 --> 00:36:39,000
Returning birds seek out
the nest burrows
345
00:36:39,000 --> 00:36:41,680
they've used in previous years,
346
00:36:41,680 --> 00:36:44,440
even if they are still buried
under the snow.
347
00:36:48,000 --> 00:36:50,720
And these are where partners
will meet up again
348
00:36:50,720 --> 00:36:52,800
after their long winter at sea.
349
00:36:54,160 --> 00:36:58,040
Rubbing beaks reinforces
their lifelong bonds.
350
00:37:10,600 --> 00:37:13,720
As the weather clears,
more birds join the throng...
351
00:37:21,680 --> 00:37:25,040
..including a puffin rather late
on the scene.
352
00:37:32,360 --> 00:37:36,240
While all over the colony,
birds are settling in,
353
00:37:36,240 --> 00:37:38,640
he faces an uphill struggle.
354
00:37:40,800 --> 00:37:44,560
With 8,000 puffins
nesting on Hornoya,
355
00:37:44,560 --> 00:37:46,760
the slopes are already crowded.
356
00:37:48,440 --> 00:37:49,680
He must navigate
357
00:37:49,680 --> 00:37:52,360
through this increasingly
fractious crowd
358
00:37:52,360 --> 00:37:53,880
to his old nest hole.
359
00:37:55,160 --> 00:37:58,640
With burrows always in short supply,
360
00:37:58,640 --> 00:38:01,680
everyone is ready to
defend their patch.
361
00:38:17,240 --> 00:38:19,320
He keeps his head down,
362
00:38:19,320 --> 00:38:21,360
hoping to avoid any trouble.
363
00:38:28,120 --> 00:38:32,000
But he's unwittingly strayed
into dangerous territory.
364
00:38:35,120 --> 00:38:37,680
A gaping beak is a warning.
365
00:38:37,680 --> 00:38:40,760
And the wider the beak,
the angrier the puffin.
366
00:38:47,200 --> 00:38:50,240
And puffins fight dirty.
367
00:39:22,640 --> 00:39:26,400
His burrow is up there but,
without reclaiming it,
368
00:39:26,400 --> 00:39:29,640
his chances of nesting
this year are over.
369
00:39:31,280 --> 00:39:34,360
Dusting himself off,
he tries again.
370
00:39:40,000 --> 00:39:42,160
He spots a familiar landmark.
371
00:39:47,560 --> 00:39:50,000
His mate has beaten him home.
372
00:39:54,760 --> 00:39:58,000
And she's already taken
possession of their old burrow.
373
00:40:10,640 --> 00:40:16,040
Life this far north is never
predictable but, reunited,
374
00:40:16,040 --> 00:40:19,280
they now have a fighting
chance of raising a chick.
375
00:40:35,120 --> 00:40:39,160
Just when this coastline seems
at its most inhospitable...
376
00:40:41,080 --> 00:40:44,800
..its greatest secret is
hidden beneath the waves.
377
00:40:49,000 --> 00:40:52,920
In the darkest months,
Atlantic herring migrate
378
00:40:52,920 --> 00:40:56,800
into the northern fjords to escape
the worst Arctic weather.
379
00:40:59,000 --> 00:41:02,840
A single shoal can contain
three billion fish.
380
00:41:06,840 --> 00:41:09,600
Such abundance does
not go unnoticed.
381
00:41:17,960 --> 00:41:20,640
Orca, killer whales.
382
00:41:22,400 --> 00:41:25,160
In a deadly game of hide and seek,
383
00:41:25,160 --> 00:41:29,400
they use echolocation to track
down the big herring shoals.
384
00:41:39,160 --> 00:41:45,000
Following in their wake is biologist
and photographer Audun Rikardsen.
385
00:41:45,000 --> 00:41:47,320
He's spent years piecing together
386
00:41:47,320 --> 00:41:50,960
the lives of these
formidable predators.
387
00:41:50,960 --> 00:41:53,960
And he takes a very
hands-on approach.
388
00:41:55,240 --> 00:41:59,040
If you are a visitor in their world
and if you go down there,
389
00:41:59,040 --> 00:42:02,200
then you can really
feel the contact.
390
00:42:02,200 --> 00:42:04,880
And those moments
are really precious.
391
00:42:12,040 --> 00:42:17,720
You can imagine what they do beneath
the surface but, to really see
392
00:42:17,720 --> 00:42:20,280
what's happening here,
you have to go underwater.
393
00:42:22,840 --> 00:42:26,640
For me, that's crucial, both
as a scientist and as a nature
394
00:42:26,640 --> 00:42:30,720
photographer, where you can
use your picture to tell
395
00:42:30,720 --> 00:42:33,360
better your research and
you can use your research
396
00:42:33,360 --> 00:42:34,640
to take better pictures.
397
00:42:45,720 --> 00:42:49,760
One herring isn't even a
bite-sized snack for an orca.
398
00:42:50,920 --> 00:42:55,320
But here, these clever whales
have developed a unique hunting
399
00:42:55,320 --> 00:42:58,720
technique to turn an appetiser...
400
00:42:58,720 --> 00:43:00,040
..into a feast.
401
00:43:03,480 --> 00:43:05,920
It's called carousel hunting.
402
00:43:07,000 --> 00:43:12,000
Operating as a pack, they go
to work, coordinating their attack
403
00:43:12,000 --> 00:43:13,880
with pulsing calls.
404
00:43:16,000 --> 00:43:19,480
In fact, it's the older females,
the grandmothers, that are the boss
405
00:43:19,480 --> 00:43:21,200
in these family groups.
406
00:43:23,080 --> 00:43:26,240
They know exactly what they should
do when they work together.
407
00:43:26,240 --> 00:43:28,080
ORCA CALLS
408
00:43:31,600 --> 00:43:34,480
Using air bubbles and belly flashes,
409
00:43:34,480 --> 00:43:38,560
they herd the fish into a
tight ball and drive them
410
00:43:38,560 --> 00:43:39,720
towards the surface.
411
00:43:44,840 --> 00:43:46,960
ORCA CALLS
412
00:43:53,880 --> 00:43:59,960
While some corral the fish, others
drive into the swirling mass,
413
00:43:59,960 --> 00:44:03,040
whipping their tail
to stun the herring.
414
00:44:21,400 --> 00:44:25,480
Then each is delicately
eaten one at a time.
415
00:44:32,400 --> 00:44:35,520
But orca aren't the only
clever predators here.
416
00:44:38,800 --> 00:44:44,080
Humpback whales have begun
tracking the orca's every move.
417
00:44:53,120 --> 00:44:55,880
By listening in on their calls,
418
00:44:55,880 --> 00:44:58,920
they know when a shoal
has been rounded up.
419
00:45:05,280 --> 00:45:10,280
And that's their cue to muscle
in, rising from below to engulf
420
00:45:10,280 --> 00:45:13,160
hundreds of fish in
a single mouthful.
421
00:45:29,400 --> 00:45:32,480
WHALES BRAY
422
00:45:43,800 --> 00:45:45,200
In response...
423
00:45:47,240 --> 00:45:49,480
..the orca have started
eavesdropping
424
00:45:49,480 --> 00:45:51,320
on other herring hunters.
425
00:45:56,960 --> 00:46:01,360
From miles away, they have
learned to tune in to the noise
426
00:46:01,360 --> 00:46:02,920
of fishing machinery.
427
00:46:04,640 --> 00:46:07,960
A trawler's winch is
like a dinner bell.
428
00:46:11,280 --> 00:46:14,240
The fishermen work at nights
when the herring rise
429
00:46:14,240 --> 00:46:15,360
up from the deep.
430
00:46:18,600 --> 00:46:23,360
The nets are already full,
but the orca are patient.
431
00:46:29,360 --> 00:46:31,880
As the catch is hauled aboard...
432
00:46:33,640 --> 00:46:37,320
..any strays and spills
are easy pickings.
433
00:46:40,520 --> 00:46:43,760
There's not enough to
satisfy a humpback,
434
00:46:43,760 --> 00:46:47,200
so the orca feed undisturbed.
435
00:46:51,320 --> 00:46:53,640
Well, almost.
436
00:46:55,000 --> 00:46:57,760
Audun has caught up with the orca.
437
00:46:57,760 --> 00:47:02,320
Their presence around the trawlers
gives him the perfect opportunity
438
00:47:02,320 --> 00:47:05,680
to delve deeper
into their changing world.
439
00:47:05,680 --> 00:47:09,640
So, what we want to do is to follow
constantly and see what they do.
440
00:47:09,640 --> 00:47:14,000
And doing that, you have to have
a tag on, a satellite tag.
441
00:47:14,000 --> 00:47:19,000
These are going to report positions
for hopefully up to three months.
442
00:47:19,000 --> 00:47:24,680
So then we can follow the herring
and we can see if these killer
443
00:47:24,680 --> 00:47:27,680
whales are following the same
pattern as the herring.
444
00:47:31,040 --> 00:47:33,720
OK. OK. Let's get it up.
445
00:47:45,160 --> 00:47:48,960
Success will take
patience and skill.
446
00:47:58,080 --> 00:47:59,120
Yes!
447
00:48:01,520 --> 00:48:04,120
CHEERING
448
00:48:07,960 --> 00:48:09,800
That was good.
That was really good.
449
00:48:18,720 --> 00:48:23,200
The tracker allows Audun to see
just how much the orca depend
450
00:48:23,200 --> 00:48:26,080
on the herring
during their migration
451
00:48:26,080 --> 00:48:27,720
through these northern seas.
452
00:48:32,240 --> 00:48:37,160
There's no-one that's better than
the orcas to follow the herring.
453
00:48:39,720 --> 00:48:43,600
So, if you have a good overview
of the migration of the killer
454
00:48:43,600 --> 00:48:47,760
whales, you will also have a good
overview of the change in migration
455
00:48:47,760 --> 00:48:51,440
patterns of herring, which is
important for conservation.
456
00:48:54,400 --> 00:48:58,960
Over the last 20 years, orca have
followed the main herring shoals
457
00:48:58,960 --> 00:49:03,520
as they've shifted their winter base
almost 200 miles further north...
458
00:49:06,280 --> 00:49:11,320
..a move coinciding with a one
degree Celsius rise in the average
459
00:49:11,320 --> 00:49:12,560
sea temperatures here.
460
00:49:17,720 --> 00:49:22,520
To survive on this unpredictable
coast has always demanded
461
00:49:22,520 --> 00:49:25,400
adaptability and resilience.
462
00:49:31,720 --> 00:49:36,320
In a warming world, these qualities
will be tested as never before...
463
00:49:40,480 --> 00:49:43,680
..as all face up to
the latest challenges
464
00:49:43,680 --> 00:49:46,920
on Scandinavia's wild frontier.
465
00:50:04,840 --> 00:50:06,440
Over an eventful year,
466
00:50:06,440 --> 00:50:11,080
the Wild Scandinavia crew filmed
along an epic coastline.
467
00:50:14,080 --> 00:50:19,000
But to capture the drama of puffin
life, they had to travel to Hornoya,
468
00:50:19,000 --> 00:50:21,000
off Norway's Arctic coast.
469
00:50:26,360 --> 00:50:28,880
Made it! Woo!
470
00:50:28,880 --> 00:50:33,200
The crew must carry everything
they need for the next 12 days
471
00:50:33,200 --> 00:50:36,800
up to their base at
the island's lighthouse.
472
00:50:36,800 --> 00:50:40,720
Incredibly grateful for the guys
from the Norwegian Army,
473
00:50:40,720 --> 00:50:44,320
who have come over to help us
move this kit. Come on, hurry up!
474
00:50:52,680 --> 00:50:56,520
Each day, the team must hike
down the icy path to the bottom
475
00:50:56,520 --> 00:50:58,400
of the bird cliff.
476
00:50:58,400 --> 00:51:03,480
But on this wild coast, the
weather is constantly changing.
477
00:51:03,480 --> 00:51:05,520
A storm is never far away.
478
00:51:07,400 --> 00:51:10,680
Puffin spotting in
the snow in a blizzard.
479
00:51:13,080 --> 00:51:15,600
The conditions are putting
off most of the birds.
480
00:51:23,000 --> 00:51:27,080
But a hardy few are brave
enough to endure the storm.
481
00:51:32,160 --> 00:51:34,800
We've got puffins on the ground.
482
00:51:34,800 --> 00:51:38,000
But they don't seem to be
in the mood for fighting.
483
00:51:45,720 --> 00:51:48,240
Wind has really gotten
strong this afternoon,
484
00:51:48,240 --> 00:51:50,440
so we're going to pack
it in and call it a day.
485
00:51:53,240 --> 00:51:57,080
Buffeting winds make the icy
path even more treacherous...
486
00:52:02,000 --> 00:52:05,440
..and it's a long drop
down the sheer cliff...
487
00:52:10,480 --> 00:52:14,720
..a close call and an exhausting
walk back to the lighthouse.
488
00:52:29,720 --> 00:52:32,880
All the team can do is watch...
489
00:52:32,880 --> 00:52:34,040
..and wait.
490
00:52:38,680 --> 00:52:40,840
Finally, the storm subsides.
491
00:52:47,800 --> 00:52:48,840
Can't believe it.
492
00:52:50,320 --> 00:52:53,960
At the moment, there's
I don't know how many birds,
493
00:52:53,960 --> 00:52:58,080
but it's just a cloud of guillemots
going around in a big circle.
494
00:52:58,080 --> 00:53:01,960
It looks like a huge, chaotic
roller disco in the sky.
495
00:53:05,880 --> 00:53:08,040
And they're not alone.
496
00:53:22,160 --> 00:53:23,520
We've got puffins.
497
00:53:30,680 --> 00:53:32,080
They just keep coming.
498
00:53:35,120 --> 00:53:40,080
Within the space of about half an
hour, almost the entire population
499
00:53:40,080 --> 00:53:41,360
has landed on the cliffs.
500
00:53:48,960 --> 00:53:53,400
With the puffins now on the slopes
in numbers, Jesse begins to get
501
00:53:53,400 --> 00:53:56,600
a taste of their
charming personalities.
502
00:53:56,600 --> 00:54:00,280
There's lots and lots of
interactions between the birds.
503
00:54:00,280 --> 00:54:03,120
They're sort of strolling around,
either in pairs or...
504
00:54:03,120 --> 00:54:06,200
Urgh! Oh, no!
505
00:54:09,760 --> 00:54:14,560
Right in my mouth. There's a lot of
birds flying over and I opened my
506
00:54:14,560 --> 00:54:15,920
mouth at the wrong moment.
507
00:54:17,240 --> 00:54:19,120
HE COUGHS
508
00:54:25,360 --> 00:54:28,960
It soon becomes clear why the birds
keep flushing off the cliff
509
00:54:28,960 --> 00:54:30,320
and over the crew's heads.
510
00:54:31,720 --> 00:54:37,120
There's two white-tailed eagles
hunting on the cliff above us.
511
00:54:38,400 --> 00:54:42,400
Eagles pose a very real
threat to the birds here.
512
00:54:42,400 --> 00:54:45,000
But they're not the biggest
challenge they face.
513
00:54:47,360 --> 00:54:51,680
No-one understands this better
than scientist Tone Reiertsen,
514
00:54:51,680 --> 00:54:55,200
who has been studying the birds
here for almost 20 years.
515
00:54:55,200 --> 00:55:00,200
It's worrying to see these warning
signs now that things are changing.
516
00:55:00,200 --> 00:55:03,560
The puffins, they tend
to arrive earlier and earlier
517
00:55:03,560 --> 00:55:07,040
and this is linked to the
rising sea temperatures.
518
00:55:07,040 --> 00:55:11,320
It looks like the Barents Sea
has risen by one degree,
519
00:55:11,320 --> 00:55:14,560
which doesn't sound very much,
but it can have quite dramatic
520
00:55:14,560 --> 00:55:17,400
consequences. The food and
everything for the whole
521
00:55:17,400 --> 00:55:18,960
marine ecosystem, actually.
522
00:55:20,480 --> 00:55:24,240
So, if the food changes,
then they simply cannot bring
523
00:55:24,240 --> 00:55:25,440
up a chick.
524
00:55:27,120 --> 00:55:31,920
We focus on trying to understand
how they are adapting and how much
525
00:55:31,920 --> 00:55:36,000
they are capable of adapting,
but there is so little we know yet.
526
00:55:36,000 --> 00:55:39,200
We need to find out more.
We are running out of time.
527
00:55:42,200 --> 00:55:46,600
As the puffins stake out
their old nests, Jesse is finally
528
00:55:46,600 --> 00:55:51,120
able to film the battles for burrows
that the team came here to witness.
529
00:56:03,040 --> 00:56:06,200
Having had no fights
for days and days,
530
00:56:06,200 --> 00:56:07,600
it's all kicking off today.
531
00:56:07,600 --> 00:56:09,880
And you just saw it there.
I mean, amazing.
532
00:56:09,880 --> 00:56:12,120
And they're really going for it.
533
00:56:12,120 --> 00:56:15,280
Oh, another fight! Another fight!
534
00:56:15,280 --> 00:56:19,440
Slow motion reveals just how
intense these fights are.
535
00:56:22,400 --> 00:56:25,120
You see, sometimes they grab bills.
536
00:56:25,120 --> 00:56:28,160
One of them does a karate kick
right in the other guy's eye.
537
00:56:37,280 --> 00:56:41,800
But even with many burrows
still buried, Jesse's noticed
538
00:56:41,800 --> 00:56:44,280
they still seem to know
where to find them.
539
00:56:44,280 --> 00:56:45,960
They kind of walk around a bit.
540
00:56:45,960 --> 00:56:48,840
They're orienting themselves
and trying to work out exactly
541
00:56:48,840 --> 00:56:51,280
where their burrow
is under the snow.
542
00:56:51,280 --> 00:56:53,760
Yeah, puffins, like
all other sea birds,
543
00:56:53,760 --> 00:56:57,160
they have an enormously good sense
544
00:56:57,160 --> 00:57:00,680
of space so that, when they come
back, even if there is one metre
545
00:57:00,680 --> 00:57:03,480
of snow, they know exactly -
this is my spot.
546
00:57:03,480 --> 00:57:07,440
It seems to me like a really
silly thing to do for a bird
547
00:57:07,440 --> 00:57:09,360
to have a fight on a cliff.
548
00:57:09,360 --> 00:57:12,320
The value of the nest site
is very important for them.
549
00:57:12,320 --> 00:57:14,440
These are very aggressive
birds, actually.
550
00:57:14,440 --> 00:57:17,920
I used to call them the most
angry birds in the world!
551
00:57:17,920 --> 00:57:23,360
After a punishing start, the birds
have made a powerful impression
552
00:57:23,360 --> 00:57:26,840
on this team. They're really
magical little things.
553
00:57:26,840 --> 00:57:30,240
I'm not sure I like them very much.
Quite aggressive, but they are cool,
554
00:57:30,240 --> 00:57:32,200
you've got to admire them.
555
00:57:32,200 --> 00:57:36,600
I've never been to anywhere with
so many birds. It feels so alive.
556
00:57:36,600 --> 00:57:39,720
But, sadly, the truth is
that life for these birds
557
00:57:39,720 --> 00:57:42,000
is becoming increasingly
unpredictable.
558
00:57:42,000 --> 00:57:47,160
And I just hope that we can slow
that process down so that these
559
00:57:47,160 --> 00:57:51,840
amazing birds have time
to adapt because places
560
00:57:51,840 --> 00:57:54,120
like this are just
too precious to lose.
561
00:58:01,000 --> 00:58:03,960
Next time, we explore
the magical forests...
562
00:58:05,320 --> 00:58:07,200
..and the labyrinth of waterways
563
00:58:07,200 --> 00:58:09,560
that are the heartlands
of Scandinavia.
564
00:58:13,120 --> 00:58:17,560
A secret world where ancient
alliances connect all life...
565
00:58:20,520 --> 00:58:23,480
..as animals and people
face the trials
566
00:58:23,480 --> 00:58:25,560
of the ever-changing seasons.
71105
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