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[Samin Nosrat] Fat.
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It's nothing short of a miracle.
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Fat is flavor.
4
00:00:15,557 --> 00:00:17,058
Fat is texture.
5
00:00:17,142 --> 00:00:20,103
Fat adds its own unique flavor to a dish.
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00:00:21,354 --> 00:00:23,898
And it can amplify the other flavors
in a recipe.
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Simply put...
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Fat makes food delicious.
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00:00:30,447 --> 00:00:33,867
And one of the most important things
any cook can learn
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is how to harness its magic.
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00:00:36,077 --> 00:00:37,912
[sizzling]
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00:00:44,836 --> 00:00:47,881
I've spent my entire life
in pursuit of flavor.
13
00:00:50,550 --> 00:00:52,761
Starting at the legendary Chez Panisse,
14
00:00:53,636 --> 00:00:57,640
I've been cooking, teaching,
and writing about food for 18 years.
15
00:00:58,349 --> 00:01:00,477
You have to taste
what you're about to cook with.
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00:01:00,560 --> 00:01:02,270
You have to look at it, smell it,
touch it.
17
00:01:02,896 --> 00:01:04,439
I've traveled the world...
18
00:01:04,522 --> 00:01:06,524
[relaxed music playing,
camera shutter snapping]
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00:01:06,608 --> 00:01:07,734
...tasting everything.
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00:01:10,278 --> 00:01:13,281
And what I've discovered
is that the secret to good cooking
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is hiding in plain sight.
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Just four basic elements
can make or break a dish.
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Salt.
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Fat.
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Acid.
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And heat.
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Commit to mastering them
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00:01:31,508 --> 00:01:34,677
and you can become not only a good cook,
but a great one.
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[birds chirping]
30
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["Primavera" by Daniele Benati playing]
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♪ La prima volta che scopri la vita ♪
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♪ Un bimbo sorride che gioia ti da ♪
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♪ La primavera... ♪
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[Samin] A few years
after I started cooking, I moved to Italy.
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I wanted to learn more about,
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and eat, all of my favorite dishes.
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Right at the source.
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♪ Primavera sorprendimi
Fai fiorire anche me ♪
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[Samin] And as I cooked and ate my way
throughout the country,
40
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one thing became clear:
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from cheese to salami
42
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ragù to gelato
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Italians are masters at using fat
to make their food
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absolutely, fantastically,
45
00:02:40,326 --> 00:02:43,163
almost impossibly delicious.
46
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And for me, the fat that defines
the flavor of Italian food
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more than any other is olive oil.
48
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[olive harvester whirring,
leaves rustling]
49
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[Franco, in Italian]
This area is called Gaaci,
50
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which means "protected lands."
51
00:03:13,484 --> 00:03:14,819
The sea is right in front.
52
00:03:15,445 --> 00:03:19,240
And the highest mountains
of all of Liguria are in the back.
53
00:03:19,657 --> 00:03:24,454
This big mix of sea, mountain, and woods
54
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gives us very delicate flavors,
55
00:03:28,833 --> 00:03:30,877
but also very intense.
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[Samin, in Italian]
I'm very interested in the idea
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that the fat of a place
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is in fact the beginning of its cuisine.
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[Paolo, in Italian]
You can taste different flavors
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00:03:43,139 --> 00:03:44,974
that tell you about a different land.
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00:03:45,058 --> 00:03:50,813
Each oil in Italy manages to contain,
one by one, its own land's history.
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00:03:50,897 --> 00:03:54,984
[Franco] Taggiasca olives are grown
only in this part of Liguria.
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Because the terrain is very difficult,
very steep.
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00:03:59,239 --> 00:04:02,200
There isn't any soil,
and right underneath it there's rock.
65
00:04:02,283 --> 00:04:05,536
So Taggiasca is only a very small part
of all Italian olive oil.
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00:04:06,287 --> 00:04:09,457
But, since it's so sweet, so delicate,
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it's somewhat considered
like champagne among wines.
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[birds chirping]
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00:04:15,880 --> 00:04:17,674
When you cook,
70
00:04:17,840 --> 00:04:21,552
it's very important to know
what kind of oil you're adding.
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Oil should never cover up the flavor
of your dish,
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00:04:26,099 --> 00:04:28,810
but it should accompany and enhance it.
73
00:04:28,893 --> 00:04:32,563
[harvester whirring,
Italian music playing]
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00:04:38,194 --> 00:04:40,196
[Samin] How old are these trees?
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00:04:40,280 --> 00:04:45,535
-[Paolo] About 200 or 250 years old.
-[Samin] Two hundred fifty years? Really?
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00:04:46,119 --> 00:04:49,539
[Paolo] We sew a net
inside the whole olive grove.
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00:04:49,914 --> 00:04:53,209
Starting our work at the top of the grove,
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and then working our way down
and further down,
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we're able to keep all the olives
on the nets.
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Show her how it's done.
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[Samin laughs]
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[Samin] Don't we have any glasses?
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How do we know when we're done?
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[Paolo] When there aren't
any more olives on the tree.
85
00:05:13,104 --> 00:05:15,315
[Samin] It's like going
to the hairdresser.
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00:05:15,398 --> 00:05:16,399
[Paolo] Exactly.
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[Samin laughs]
88
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[Samin] Wow! It's so heavy!
89
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[both laugh]
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[leaves rustling]
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[Paolo] And at the end of the day,
we'll have a truckload of olives.
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[rattling]
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[clattering]
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[Paolo] This is the mill
where we produce the oil.
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The paste is ready,
so they'll unload it now.
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[Samin] Extra virgin olive oil
is basically fresh-pressed juice
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made without heat or chemicals.
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00:06:01,152 --> 00:06:03,696
[Paolo] A good olive oil
must have three parameters.
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00:06:04,197 --> 00:06:06,783
It's fruity, spicy, and bitter.
100
00:06:06,866 --> 00:06:10,203
In your mouth you must feel
at least a bit of spiciness.
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-[Samin] Uh-uh.
-Because if it's spicy, it's alive.
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It's a flavor that remains in your mouth.
103
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So if you drink and that's all,
it's not a good olive oil.
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00:06:23,174 --> 00:06:25,134
But if you drink and after a minute
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you still feel the oily sensation
in the mouth, that's a good olive oil.
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00:06:28,471 --> 00:06:29,305
[Samin] Oh.
107
00:06:34,936 --> 00:06:36,020
[Samin] It's so good.
108
00:06:40,817 --> 00:06:44,695
The essential flavor of any dish
starts with the fat it's cooked in.
109
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Entire cuisines are defined by their fats.
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Think of southern cooking.
111
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It relies heavily on bacon fat and lard.
112
00:06:55,248 --> 00:06:58,709
And French cuisine is defined
by the rich taste of butter.
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[TV host] If you're going
to make a great soufflé...
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[Samin] Before I even turn on the stove,
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I know that one of the most important
decisions I can make
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is to choose the right cooking fat.
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-[Samin, in Italian] Good morning!
-[Lidia, in Italian] Hi! Welcome!
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[Samin] Thank you so much!
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[bird chirping]
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[Samin] Nice to meet you.
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-[Lidia] It's my pleasure.
-Can I give you a big hug?
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[Lidia] Of course.
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00:07:28,906 --> 00:07:31,242
-[Samin] Thank you.
-Thank you for being here.
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This question, this request you've made,
it's really very interesting.
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[Samin] What a beautiful place!
126
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[Lidia] We used to live in the country,
then moved here...
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-[Samin] It's so beautiful!
-...and haven't left since.
128
00:07:49,218 --> 00:07:50,136
[Lidia] Here we are.
129
00:07:51,971 --> 00:07:54,265
See, this is my father.
130
00:07:54,348 --> 00:07:56,642
-The one with the straw hat.
-That one?
131
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The others are townspeople,
who have worked
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00:08:00,646 --> 00:08:03,274
removing rocks for the train tunnels.
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When the work was done, they made
a giant bowl of pasta for everyone.
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00:08:07,987 --> 00:08:11,115
Obviously, they celebrated
the end of the work.
135
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-[Samin] Hi, Diego!
-Hi.
136
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-[Lidia] Diego is our focaccia expert.
-[Samin] Wow!
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[Diego] The breakfast of Ligurians.
138
00:08:26,005 --> 00:08:28,090
Yes, and also of Samin.
139
00:08:28,174 --> 00:08:29,967
With lots of oil.
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00:08:30,051 --> 00:08:32,512
Believe me, the secret is
it has to be a Ligurian oil.
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[Lidia] It has to be Ligurian.
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Focaccia was born to suppress
the hunger of dockworkers.
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If they stopped to have a full lunch
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there was no time left to finish
unloading the ships' containers.
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00:08:44,065 --> 00:08:47,360
So they'd have some focaccia,
a little white wine,
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and then go on working all day.
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-Okay. I'll leave you with Diego.
-Right. Thank you.
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-Okay. Bye.
-Great.
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[Diego] The ingredients are flour, yeast,
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00:08:58,621 --> 00:09:00,706
malt extract, oil.
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[Samin] For me,
the oil here is the sweetest.
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00:09:04,210 --> 00:09:05,294
-[Diego] Lovable.
-Buttery.
153
00:09:05,378 --> 00:09:07,588
Yes, lovable. Exactly.
154
00:09:08,005 --> 00:09:10,633
It's a question of the olive's acidity.
155
00:09:10,716 --> 00:09:13,135
I think the air, even. Because....
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the air is salty. I don't know.
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But the oil in Liguria
158
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-I think it's really the best in Italy.
-I agree.
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00:09:21,143 --> 00:09:23,437
-Of course I'm biased, but...
-[Samin laughs]
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00:09:23,980 --> 00:09:26,649
We have oil rivalries here,
just like with wine.
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00:09:26,732 --> 00:09:27,567
[Samin laughs]
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[Diego] The dough
should start to feel soft.
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[Samin] How do you know
you've worked it long enough?
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[Diego] When there are no bumps.
It's completely smooth.
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00:09:50,172 --> 00:09:51,007
[Samin] Okay.
166
00:09:53,634 --> 00:09:55,678
Now you can add the salt.
167
00:10:01,726 --> 00:10:04,186
[Diego] If you're going to flavor it,
168
00:10:04,729 --> 00:10:08,816
at this point
you can add rosemary, sage...
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00:10:08,899 --> 00:10:10,318
-Olive paste.
-...olive.
170
00:10:10,401 --> 00:10:13,404
If you crumble it up inside,
you can make rosemary focaccia.
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But keep that to yourself.
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-Don't tell anyone.
-[Samin laughs]
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That goes for sage, too.
174
00:10:19,660 --> 00:10:23,497
-Or any other aromatic herb you add.
-That's beautiful.
175
00:10:25,124 --> 00:10:26,751
-[Diego] You rest it here...
-Uh-uh.
176
00:10:26,834 --> 00:10:29,920
...for 15 minutes,
covered with a dish towel.
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00:10:30,630 --> 00:10:32,715
Now we transfer the dough
to a baking pan.
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And now the secret to Ligurian focaccia.
179
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You roll out the dough.
180
00:10:41,682 --> 00:10:44,310
The perfume from the oil... Wow!
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[Diego] And now see how smooth it is.
182
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[Samin] Olive oil does
two important things for focaccia:
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00:10:55,446 --> 00:10:57,698
it lends a rich fruity flavor,
184
00:10:57,782 --> 00:11:00,576
and it creates a tender crumb
and crisp crust.
185
00:11:02,453 --> 00:11:05,539
Wow, how beautiful,
bathed in oil like this.
186
00:11:05,623 --> 00:11:06,874
We take the oil...
187
00:11:10,795 --> 00:11:11,962
and spread it out.
188
00:11:15,549 --> 00:11:18,094
Let's start with the brine,
189
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typical of the salty flavor
that goes into the focaccia's holes.
190
00:11:22,014 --> 00:11:24,850
Salt, oil. We mix them.
191
00:11:36,278 --> 00:11:39,699
-Which fingers?
-The first fingers: one, two, and three.
192
00:11:41,450 --> 00:11:43,244
-[Diego] There you go.
-Oh!
193
00:11:43,327 --> 00:11:45,496
-Don't worry about it.
-I made a mistake.
194
00:11:45,579 --> 00:11:48,165
The important thing is to press.
Don't be afraid.
195
00:11:51,794 --> 00:11:54,505
Okay. Now's the time for our brine,
196
00:11:54,588 --> 00:11:56,632
the water and salt we made.
197
00:11:56,716 --> 00:11:59,343
Just pour it over, don't be afraid.
198
00:12:02,430 --> 00:12:05,725
[Samin] When we take it from the oven,
it will be obvious
199
00:12:05,808 --> 00:12:08,269
which ones are my fingers
and which are yours.
200
00:12:08,894 --> 00:12:11,856
We wait another 40 minutes.
201
00:12:11,939 --> 00:12:15,776
Otherwise, the holes won't stay
in the focaccia.
202
00:12:15,860 --> 00:12:19,238
-[Samin laughs]
-It develops this color while it cooks.
203
00:12:19,321 --> 00:12:22,867
When we take it out of the oven,
we add more oil.
204
00:12:22,950 --> 00:12:24,577
Oh, more? Okay!
205
00:12:24,660 --> 00:12:27,329
-More oil.
-Always more oil.
206
00:12:27,830 --> 00:12:29,206
[Diego] Pour all over it.
207
00:12:30,207 --> 00:12:32,084
Always a good oil.
208
00:12:34,420 --> 00:12:38,507
Ligurian focaccia is only
two centimeters high, tops.
209
00:12:38,591 --> 00:12:41,093
Anything higher than that
and it's not really Ligurian.
210
00:12:41,677 --> 00:12:43,512
[Samin] How light, how beautiful.
211
00:12:44,221 --> 00:12:47,433
Crunchy on the bottom and soft inside.
212
00:12:47,516 --> 00:12:51,020
The holes taste like salt.
You can taste it.
213
00:12:53,981 --> 00:12:55,024
[Samin] Hmm.
214
00:12:56,776 --> 00:12:58,903
[laughs] It's truly...
215
00:13:02,239 --> 00:13:05,659
It's a focaccia that's very easy
to make at home for breakfast.
216
00:13:06,660 --> 00:13:08,788
With a cafe latte, right?
217
00:13:08,871 --> 00:13:10,831
[crunch]
218
00:13:10,915 --> 00:13:13,083
And feel how crunchy the crust is.
219
00:13:13,501 --> 00:13:14,543
Thanks.
220
00:13:16,879 --> 00:13:20,049
Thank you with a handful of oil!
221
00:13:21,717 --> 00:13:23,928
It's so good.
222
00:13:29,934 --> 00:13:35,356
When I understood
that we were coming to Liguria,
223
00:13:35,439 --> 00:13:39,318
I wanted to make pesto right away.
224
00:13:39,401 --> 00:13:44,657
Because it's a beautiful lesson
about fat's importance.
225
00:13:45,199 --> 00:13:47,701
We have cheese.
226
00:13:47,785 --> 00:13:51,121
We have creamy pine nuts.
227
00:13:51,205 --> 00:13:55,751
And we have this beautiful oil
from right here.
228
00:13:55,835 --> 00:14:01,757
All three fats work together
to make this marvelous thing.
229
00:14:01,841 --> 00:14:06,554
[Lidia] We're making pesto
the traditional way, using a mortar.
230
00:14:06,637 --> 00:14:07,972
[Samin] Where do we begin?
231
00:14:08,055 --> 00:14:11,725
The process always starts
with the pine nuts.
232
00:14:12,017 --> 00:14:14,478
Let's start by grinding the pine nuts
on their own
233
00:14:14,937 --> 00:14:18,232
so they come apart more easily.
234
00:14:18,732 --> 00:14:22,820
Otherwise, everything would form a paste
too quickly.
235
00:14:22,903 --> 00:14:25,573
How do you know when it's ready?
236
00:14:25,656 --> 00:14:29,451
When it starts to form a kind of paste.
237
00:14:29,869 --> 00:14:32,788
Not yet. I'll tell you when.
238
00:14:33,914 --> 00:14:35,124
Very good.
239
00:14:37,167 --> 00:14:39,587
Now we add the basil.
240
00:14:39,670 --> 00:14:42,715
A little more,
and we add some coarse salt, a pinch.
241
00:14:46,510 --> 00:14:51,056
I say a pinch of salt
because the cheese's flavors tend to--
242
00:14:51,140 --> 00:14:53,559
[Samin] They're also salty.
243
00:14:53,642 --> 00:14:56,812
At the end, we taste to see
what the flavor is like.
244
00:14:57,062 --> 00:14:59,732
And if it's missing salt, we add a little.
245
00:14:59,940 --> 00:15:05,070
The coarse salt helps
to break apart the leaves.
246
00:15:05,571 --> 00:15:08,908
What a nice, sweet smell.
247
00:15:08,991 --> 00:15:12,578
See how the natural oils are coming out
as we pound it?
248
00:15:13,287 --> 00:15:15,706
So here, it's only a matter of patience.
249
00:15:16,332 --> 00:15:19,710
No one makes it like this anymore.
250
00:15:19,793 --> 00:15:25,507
[Samin] Do your kids make pesto
with the mortar, too?
251
00:15:25,674 --> 00:15:27,843
[Lidia] No, I've never seen them do that.
252
00:15:27,927 --> 00:15:32,306
We'll see, maybe they'll become passionate
about it after this.
253
00:15:32,723 --> 00:15:35,351
Maybe they'll try to compete
with their mother.
254
00:15:35,434 --> 00:15:36,644
[squishing]
255
00:15:36,727 --> 00:15:38,771
Now it's starting to look good.
256
00:15:38,854 --> 00:15:40,981
It's starting to give me satisfaction.
257
00:15:41,065 --> 00:15:42,942
-[squishing]
-What a sound, right?
258
00:15:43,025 --> 00:15:43,901
[Lidia] Mm.
259
00:15:43,984 --> 00:15:47,112
So, let's prepare the cheese.
260
00:15:47,738 --> 00:15:48,948
[Samin] Equal parts?
261
00:15:49,031 --> 00:15:53,911
[Lidia] No. Two thirds of Parmesan
and one third of pecorino.
262
00:15:55,079 --> 00:15:56,747
Here we are.
263
00:15:56,830 --> 00:15:59,375
-Here's the Parmesan.
-[Samin] Parmesan and pecorino.
264
00:15:59,458 --> 00:16:03,462
[Lidia] Now let me do this by eye,
without weighing.
265
00:16:03,545 --> 00:16:07,341
I'm not in the habit of weighing anything.
266
00:16:08,092 --> 00:16:12,137
So, we've reached the point for the oil.
267
00:16:12,221 --> 00:16:13,597
[squishing]
268
00:16:14,807 --> 00:16:17,810
You see the sauce starting to look right?
269
00:16:17,893 --> 00:16:21,897
More like how a sauce for pasta
should look.
270
00:16:21,981 --> 00:16:23,816
What a beautiful green color.
271
00:16:24,692 --> 00:16:28,654
In America, we haven't really understood
272
00:16:28,737 --> 00:16:32,658
-that oil is something fresh.
-Yes, fresh.
273
00:16:32,908 --> 00:16:34,702
It has an expiration date.
274
00:16:34,785 --> 00:16:36,245
It's not like wine.
275
00:16:36,328 --> 00:16:42,334
One of my friends received
a bottle of olive oil for her wedding,
276
00:16:42,418 --> 00:16:45,879
but 30 years ago.
277
00:16:45,963 --> 00:16:48,674
And today,
she still uses it little by little.
278
00:16:48,757 --> 00:16:51,677
She hasn't learned yet
that it's turned rancid.
279
00:16:51,760 --> 00:16:54,513
She wasted it. It was a real waste.
280
00:16:54,596 --> 00:16:58,225
-It's just gross.
-Now she can use it to turn the lamps on.
281
00:16:58,308 --> 00:16:59,560
Right!
282
00:16:59,643 --> 00:17:02,312
-[Lidia] See how soft it is?
-Beautiful.
283
00:17:02,771 --> 00:17:05,274
[Samin] You can smell
all the different flavors.
284
00:17:05,357 --> 00:17:08,694
The oil is like a medium for all of them.
285
00:17:09,111 --> 00:17:10,821
[Lidia] Tell me how it tastes.
286
00:17:13,407 --> 00:17:15,451
-So good.
-Great. Now...
287
00:17:15,534 --> 00:17:18,454
-It's not missing anything.
-Perfect.
288
00:17:26,086 --> 00:17:27,504
[indistinct dialogue]
289
00:17:28,881 --> 00:17:31,091
[Lidia] We can add a drop of oil.
290
00:17:35,179 --> 00:17:37,514
There. A handful of Parmesan.
291
00:17:37,973 --> 00:17:39,308
Always very good.
292
00:17:39,391 --> 00:17:41,602
[Samin laughs]
293
00:17:41,685 --> 00:17:42,936
[crunch]
294
00:17:44,229 --> 00:17:47,524
[Samin] Wow! [laughs] Delicious.
295
00:17:47,608 --> 00:17:48,817
[horn honks in distance]
296
00:17:51,320 --> 00:17:54,782
[Samin] Fat can also be a powerful source
of flavor from within food.
297
00:17:56,408 --> 00:17:58,619
Most of the flavor in meat is in its fat,
298
00:17:59,536 --> 00:18:03,040
which means that a fatty cut of pork
tastes porkier than a lean one.
299
00:18:05,334 --> 00:18:08,670
Italian butchers prefer to use animals
with lots of fat,
300
00:18:08,754 --> 00:18:12,007
and that means one thing: more flavor.
301
00:18:15,677 --> 00:18:17,846
Ah! Hi, piggies!
302
00:18:22,476 --> 00:18:25,479
-We've brought them some candy.
-Oh!
303
00:18:25,562 --> 00:18:28,857
-Let's give them some acorns.
-[Samin laughs]
304
00:18:28,941 --> 00:18:30,150
[Samin] Me too, me too!
305
00:18:30,234 --> 00:18:31,944
[Lorenzo] They really like these.
306
00:18:32,236 --> 00:18:34,947
[Samin] It's like a dessert.
307
00:18:35,030 --> 00:18:37,282
-[Lorenzo] Yes, yes, yes!
-[pigs munching]
308
00:18:37,825 --> 00:18:42,329
[Lorenzo] Beautiful, shiny.
You see how they reflect the light?
309
00:18:42,412 --> 00:18:45,499
You can tell that these are healthy pigs.
310
00:18:46,125 --> 00:18:48,293
-You can't smell anything.
-Nothing.
311
00:18:48,752 --> 00:18:50,629
[Samin] They seem pretty happy, no?
312
00:18:50,712 --> 00:18:52,589
Yes, they're in paradise!
313
00:18:55,008 --> 00:18:59,012
The Cinta Senese is a breed
of domesticated pig.
314
00:18:59,221 --> 00:19:03,267
It has a very slow metabolism,
especially compared to more modern breeds.
315
00:19:03,350 --> 00:19:06,895
If they don't get exercise,
they get really fat.
316
00:19:07,187 --> 00:19:09,523
And they don't reproduce as much
as the others.
317
00:19:09,606 --> 00:19:12,401
In the 70's,
new breeds started coming over
318
00:19:12,484 --> 00:19:14,236
from northern Europe and America.
319
00:19:14,319 --> 00:19:18,240
They were all very skinny,
so they had more piglets.
320
00:19:18,323 --> 00:19:20,659
And then by the 80's,
there were only a few left.
321
00:19:20,742 --> 00:19:23,787
[in English] In 1983,
when I was 20 years old,
322
00:19:23,871 --> 00:19:27,249
I started to do...
323
00:19:27,332 --> 00:19:29,376
-To bring back this breed.
-Yes, yes.
324
00:19:30,252 --> 00:19:33,255
[Lorenzo, in Italian]
A lot of sommeliers hang around here,
325
00:19:33,338 --> 00:19:36,049
people who look for the scent in things.
326
00:19:36,133 --> 00:19:40,012
In our ham, they've smelled egg yolk,
327
00:19:40,220 --> 00:19:42,389
they've smelled chocolate,
328
00:19:42,472 --> 00:19:44,975
they've smelled walnuts,
329
00:19:45,058 --> 00:19:47,561
they've smelled acorns, too.
330
00:19:47,644 --> 00:19:49,771
How does that scent get there?
331
00:19:49,855 --> 00:19:53,650
I don't know! Maybe it sets in the fat.
332
00:19:53,734 --> 00:19:55,277
[pigs shrieking]
333
00:19:55,360 --> 00:20:00,032
[Lorenzo] In ancient times,
all these woods belonged to my family.
334
00:20:00,407 --> 00:20:05,037
But it seems that one of my ancestors
spent all the family money on women.
335
00:20:05,120 --> 00:20:06,705
-[Samin laughs]
-[Lorenzo chuckles]
336
00:20:06,788 --> 00:20:09,374
I don't know if that's a good
or bad thing...
337
00:20:09,458 --> 00:20:10,375
[both laugh]
338
00:20:10,459 --> 00:20:13,003
-[Samin] Okay.
-But it's what happened.
339
00:20:15,547 --> 00:20:18,717
[Samin] For centuries,
it was common for rural Italian families
340
00:20:18,800 --> 00:20:20,761
to raise two or three pigs each year.
341
00:20:22,429 --> 00:20:26,266
Expert traveling butchers called norcini
would wander from town to town
342
00:20:26,600 --> 00:20:29,228
slaughtering the pigs and turning them
into salumi.
343
00:20:31,396 --> 00:20:34,149
They were so skillful
that they were considered mystics.
344
00:20:36,777 --> 00:20:37,945
[Lorenzo] It's really stiff.
345
00:20:38,820 --> 00:20:41,698
Lorenzo is the descendant
of a long line of norcini.
346
00:20:43,200 --> 00:20:48,622
[Lorenzo] We put only the head on a basin.
347
00:20:49,289 --> 00:20:51,667
-Just like with people--
-[Samin] This is a lot of meat.
348
00:20:51,750 --> 00:20:53,460
Maybe almost 400 pounds?
349
00:20:53,543 --> 00:20:55,504
-The prosciutto comes from the ham.
-Yes.
350
00:20:55,587 --> 00:20:58,840
And then what's this, this beautiful fat
that's on the back--
351
00:20:58,924 --> 00:21:01,176
This is the noble part of the fat.
352
00:21:01,260 --> 00:21:02,552
-The noble part?
-Yes.
353
00:21:02,636 --> 00:21:04,388
The noble fat. I love that.
354
00:21:04,846 --> 00:21:06,974
In English, we have the saying,
"high on the hog."
355
00:21:07,057 --> 00:21:09,851
So when you are wealthy
or you just got a big paycheck
356
00:21:09,935 --> 00:21:12,479
it's the same, the idea of the noble fat
357
00:21:12,562 --> 00:21:15,941
or the noble cuts of the highest parts
of the pig. Literally.
358
00:21:16,024 --> 00:21:19,278
So, these parts here
are food for the rich people.
359
00:21:19,361 --> 00:21:22,614
-What's this?
-The shoulder, the pancetta--
360
00:21:22,698 --> 00:21:24,157
The pancetta, or the bacon.
361
00:21:24,241 --> 00:21:26,910
The tenderloin here,
it's under all this fat.
362
00:21:28,245 --> 00:21:30,622
[Lorenzo, in English]
So we start from the head.
363
00:21:31,290 --> 00:21:32,165
[squishing]
364
00:21:37,587 --> 00:21:38,880
[thump]
365
00:21:41,967 --> 00:21:44,803
I'm already thinking about
the salami that coming later.
366
00:21:46,346 --> 00:21:49,683
[Samin] So this is the shoulder
and this is the beautiful fat.
367
00:21:49,766 --> 00:21:51,643
Now he's gonna break the middle part.
368
00:21:51,727 --> 00:21:53,562
So this is all those tender cuts.
369
00:21:53,645 --> 00:21:55,897
The belly,
which here they turn into pancetta
370
00:21:55,981 --> 00:21:57,065
and we can turn into bacon.
371
00:21:59,067 --> 00:22:01,069
Okay, stay away.
372
00:22:04,281 --> 00:22:07,784
So we have the two ends,
the parts that have worked really hard
373
00:22:08,160 --> 00:22:10,078
the front end and the back end.
374
00:22:10,162 --> 00:22:12,789
Then the beautiful middle,
the high-on-the-hog part.
375
00:22:12,873 --> 00:22:14,916
This is all the steaks and tender cuts.
376
00:22:16,043 --> 00:22:18,628
[Lorenzo] What we have now
is a diamond in the rough.
377
00:22:18,712 --> 00:22:21,506
We have to decide what kind of diamond
this should be.
378
00:22:21,882 --> 00:22:25,302
I'll translate all of your poetry
while you work.
379
00:22:25,635 --> 00:22:26,511
Okay.
380
00:22:27,429 --> 00:22:29,264
But I have more poems.
381
00:22:29,890 --> 00:22:32,476
Poetry helps here
382
00:22:32,559 --> 00:22:36,188
because we're constantly surrounded
by the noise
383
00:22:36,271 --> 00:22:38,440
of breaking joints.
384
00:22:39,232 --> 00:22:40,150
[clack]
385
00:22:40,984 --> 00:22:45,155
-[Samin laughs]
-That's what I was telling you.
386
00:22:46,198 --> 00:22:47,991
[Samin] So, now we're gonna decide
387
00:22:48,075 --> 00:22:51,161
do we want to turn this
into a beautiful piece of lardo
388
00:22:51,411 --> 00:22:54,164
or do we leave that fat on this meat
389
00:22:54,247 --> 00:22:57,000
and make it something
that we'll cook and eat for dinner?
390
00:22:57,084 --> 00:22:59,086
This is a particularly fatty pig
391
00:22:59,169 --> 00:23:01,797
and it would be a shame
to not turn that into lardo
392
00:23:01,880 --> 00:23:03,965
that we can use for many months
393
00:23:04,049 --> 00:23:07,052
so he made the decision
to go ahead and save this.
394
00:23:08,345 --> 00:23:09,179
[thud]
395
00:23:10,514 --> 00:23:13,850
-[Lorenzo] It's a good kind of meat.
-Yeah.
396
00:23:13,934 --> 00:23:17,229
Simply well-treated and well-bred.
397
00:23:18,772 --> 00:23:20,232
It's a happy animal.
398
00:23:20,607 --> 00:23:23,402
Not so happy now, but... it was.
399
00:23:23,485 --> 00:23:24,611
Was. Yeah.
400
00:23:24,986 --> 00:23:27,823
[accordion Italian music playing]
401
00:23:48,218 --> 00:23:50,178
[Samin] Twenty minutes have passed
402
00:23:50,262 --> 00:23:53,223
and that big animal
has become these big parts.
403
00:23:53,306 --> 00:23:56,560
All of these different kinds of fat
will become different things.
404
00:23:56,643 --> 00:23:59,479
So really out of this whole animal,
there's no waste.
405
00:23:59,563 --> 00:24:02,357
Everything has a use,
and it's really quite beautiful.
406
00:24:02,441 --> 00:24:06,027
When you know what you're doing,
that there's a rule for everything.
407
00:24:06,361 --> 00:24:09,030
So this, this, and this
become soppressata.
408
00:24:09,114 --> 00:24:11,616
This is the guancia, the cheek.
409
00:24:11,700 --> 00:24:13,493
And this becomes guanciale.
410
00:24:13,577 --> 00:24:14,911
For making spaghetti.
411
00:24:14,995 --> 00:24:16,371
Spaghetti carbonara.
412
00:24:16,455 --> 00:24:19,249
Then we have the spalla,
the beautiful shoulder.
413
00:24:19,332 --> 00:24:22,377
And then here's the beautiful
prized prosciut.
414
00:24:22,836 --> 00:24:26,089
Again with this incredible amount of fat.
415
00:24:26,173 --> 00:24:27,174
[Samin] Okay.
416
00:24:28,216 --> 00:24:31,470
-A little more, please. [laughs]
-More?
417
00:24:31,761 --> 00:24:32,804
Thank you.
418
00:24:32,888 --> 00:24:35,474
So, this beautiful perfect piece of fat.
419
00:24:35,682 --> 00:24:36,975
I'm sorry, Grandma.
420
00:24:38,727 --> 00:24:40,729
It's like butter. It's so sweet.
421
00:24:48,069 --> 00:24:54,326
Together, fat, salt, and time transform
this exceptional meat into prosciutto,
422
00:24:54,409 --> 00:24:59,206
salami, and all of the other cured meats
that are a hallmark of Italian cuisine.
423
00:25:01,291 --> 00:25:04,252
-[Samin] What is that?
-[Lorenzo] This is a finocchiona.
424
00:25:04,336 --> 00:25:07,255
And this specifically
is called sbriciolona,
425
00:25:07,339 --> 00:25:09,508
a big sausage that breaks apart.
426
00:25:09,591 --> 00:25:13,345
[Lorenzo]
"Sbriciolarsi" means "to crumble".
427
00:25:13,678 --> 00:25:16,640
This is a soppressata, made with the head.
428
00:25:17,224 --> 00:25:18,934
Super salty, super chewy.
429
00:25:21,311 --> 00:25:22,562
Very flavorful.
430
00:25:22,812 --> 00:25:25,232
These are things
it'd never occur to you to eat.
431
00:25:25,315 --> 00:25:26,983
If you just looked at that pig's head
432
00:25:27,901 --> 00:25:29,402
there's fat, there's meat.
433
00:25:29,653 --> 00:25:31,238
I don't even know what that is.
434
00:25:31,321 --> 00:25:33,281
Maybe it was a jowl,
but when they've cooked,
435
00:25:33,365 --> 00:25:34,991
it's a very soft texture.
436
00:25:35,075 --> 00:25:37,619
Salami is made with cut-up meat.
437
00:25:37,702 --> 00:25:40,121
The meat has to be ground up and flavored.
438
00:25:40,205 --> 00:25:42,916
The prosciutto,
these are the most precious in a way,
439
00:25:42,999 --> 00:25:46,503
because they take the most time
and they're made out of whole cuts.
440
00:25:46,586 --> 00:25:47,587
[in Italian] Cheers.
441
00:25:54,135 --> 00:25:58,181
These beautiful cured meats are the basis
for all sorts of amazing dishes.
442
00:25:58,932 --> 00:26:02,185
But fat can be just as powerful
when used as a seasoning.
443
00:26:02,852 --> 00:26:06,898
Added just before serving to enrich
the flavor or texture of a dish,
444
00:26:07,315 --> 00:26:11,653
a few drops of toasted sesame oil
can transform a plain bowl of rice.
445
00:26:12,404 --> 00:26:16,449
A dollop of sour cream will lend
silky richness to a baked potato.
446
00:26:18,159 --> 00:26:21,037
But there's one ingredient I use more
than any other
447
00:26:21,121 --> 00:26:24,457
to turn an ordinary dish
into something extraordinary...
448
00:26:25,125 --> 00:26:28,336
[triumphant music plays, cows moo]
449
00:26:30,046 --> 00:26:31,506
Red cow Parmesan.
450
00:26:37,971 --> 00:26:40,223
-[Samin] That cow smell.
-Yeah.
451
00:26:40,599 --> 00:26:42,892
[Samin] So who are these?
Who do we have here?
452
00:26:42,976 --> 00:26:45,520
[Tania] So here we have the red cows.
453
00:26:45,604 --> 00:26:47,897
-[Samin] The vacche rosse.
-Vacche rosse.
454
00:26:47,981 --> 00:26:50,483
[Samin] Can you tell me a little about
the history of these cows?
455
00:26:50,567 --> 00:26:52,652
[Tania] This is a very ancient breed
456
00:26:53,361 --> 00:26:56,072
coming from the north of Europe
457
00:26:56,156 --> 00:27:00,493
with the Barbaric invasions in 1200.
458
00:27:00,577 --> 00:27:02,287
-So, a thousand years ago.
-Yes.
459
00:27:02,370 --> 00:27:04,039
[Samin] Is the milk they produce special?
460
00:27:04,122 --> 00:27:05,373
[Tania] Yes, it's very special.
461
00:27:10,920 --> 00:27:14,174
[Samin] The milk from red cows
is sweeter and far richer in fat
462
00:27:14,257 --> 00:27:16,009
than the milk from other cows.
463
00:27:17,385 --> 00:27:19,929
That's what makes this
the queen of Parmesan.
464
00:27:21,681 --> 00:27:23,725
Che bello. Wow.
465
00:27:25,894 --> 00:27:27,687
So now what he's doing
466
00:27:28,188 --> 00:27:30,148
is breaking up the curds and the whey.
467
00:27:30,231 --> 00:27:33,943
The curds are these solid bits,
and the whey is the liquid.
468
00:27:34,277 --> 00:27:39,240
[in Italian] You have to break
the milk apart delicately and uniformly.
469
00:27:39,324 --> 00:27:42,202
That means there, there, there.
470
00:27:42,577 --> 00:27:43,745
Slow and steady.
471
00:27:44,371 --> 00:27:46,373
Because the milk must be respected.
472
00:27:48,041 --> 00:27:50,001
[Samin] Just like Lorenzo's prosciutto,
473
00:27:50,085 --> 00:27:52,003
the recipe for this cheese is simple.
474
00:27:52,629 --> 00:27:56,800
It involves little more than salt, time,
and, of course, fat.
475
00:27:58,468 --> 00:28:00,720
[Mauro, in Italian]
Now it settles on the bottom.
476
00:28:01,096 --> 00:28:06,017
The paddle shapes the cheese
and detaches it from the wall.
477
00:28:06,685 --> 00:28:09,062
-[Samin, in Italian] Can I pull it?
-Yes.
478
00:28:09,145 --> 00:28:10,188
[Samin laughs]
479
00:28:11,690 --> 00:28:12,607
Okay.
480
00:28:13,191 --> 00:28:16,277
I'm trying to peel the cheese
off the bottom of the pot.
481
00:28:16,361 --> 00:28:18,113
[Mauro] Okay. Good.
482
00:28:29,374 --> 00:28:30,625
[Samin] Wow!
483
00:28:31,209 --> 00:28:33,086
Wow, wow, wow.
484
00:28:33,545 --> 00:28:34,963
[in Italian] It's like a ballet.
485
00:28:36,464 --> 00:28:37,716
Ah!
486
00:28:38,216 --> 00:28:40,218
-[Mauro] Now we tie it.
-[Samin] Uh-uh.
487
00:28:41,094 --> 00:28:42,679
[Samin] So now we wait more.
488
00:28:43,179 --> 00:28:46,766
[Mauro] With its weight, attached here,
it loses all its humidity.
489
00:28:46,850 --> 00:28:47,851
[Samin] It's still soft.
490
00:28:48,727 --> 00:28:51,354
-[Mauro] Okay.
-[Samin] So these are the twins.
491
00:28:51,438 --> 00:28:52,772
You gotta check it.
492
00:28:53,148 --> 00:28:55,942
Okay, now he's double-checking
to make sure we're doing it--
493
00:28:56,025 --> 00:28:57,694
This one is bigger.
494
00:28:58,486 --> 00:29:00,488
Okay. This is bigger.
495
00:29:00,572 --> 00:29:02,699
How can you tell?
496
00:29:02,782 --> 00:29:03,908
With my eyes!
497
00:29:04,242 --> 00:29:06,578
[Samin] So this
is a thousand liters of milk.
498
00:29:07,871 --> 00:29:09,664
Becomes two wheels of cheese.
499
00:29:09,748 --> 00:29:12,000
And each one is 500 liters.
500
00:29:16,379 --> 00:29:17,547
[metallic clank]
501
00:29:20,133 --> 00:29:22,135
[swishing, dripping]
502
00:29:25,096 --> 00:29:26,723
[Tania] The salatura, our salting room.
503
00:29:26,806 --> 00:29:27,682
[Samin] Perfect!
504
00:29:27,766 --> 00:29:28,892
[Tania] Lights!
505
00:29:29,267 --> 00:29:31,644
[Samin] Wow!
506
00:29:32,854 --> 00:29:37,650
[Tania] Newborn wheels
stay here about 22 days
507
00:29:37,734 --> 00:29:41,988
so that they can absorb better the salt.
508
00:29:42,071 --> 00:29:45,241
[Mauro] It's a great sign
when we see in the cheeses,
509
00:29:45,325 --> 00:29:47,494
which are in these traditional
salt baths--
510
00:29:47,827 --> 00:29:51,664
you can tell by the form, which is low.
511
00:29:51,748 --> 00:29:53,625
-That's a good sign.
-[Samin] And why is that?
512
00:29:53,708 --> 00:29:57,086
If the form is floating and tends to rise
513
00:29:57,670 --> 00:29:59,631
it means there are air pockets inside.
514
00:30:04,594 --> 00:30:07,055
[Mauro] So this one
is the driest, let's say.
515
00:30:07,138 --> 00:30:08,473
[Samin] How many months old?
516
00:30:08,556 --> 00:30:10,558
[Tania] Twenty-four months.
517
00:30:10,642 --> 00:30:12,519
[soft thudding]
518
00:30:12,602 --> 00:30:13,812
[Mauro] Hear that?
519
00:30:14,145 --> 00:30:16,064
Now this form is very fresh.
520
00:30:17,357 --> 00:30:19,400
-[Tania] This is very fresh.
-A very fresh one.
521
00:30:19,484 --> 00:30:20,819
[Mauro] Hear the difference?
522
00:30:20,902 --> 00:30:22,487
-Yeah.
-[thudding]
523
00:30:23,738 --> 00:30:26,825
[Mauro] I do this test occasionally
as the form is aging
524
00:30:26,908 --> 00:30:29,494
to make sure it's aging in the right way.
525
00:30:29,577 --> 00:30:32,455
He does this test sometimes
526
00:30:32,539 --> 00:30:36,042
and the official test is at 12 months.
527
00:30:36,125 --> 00:30:38,753
You must hear this sound in your dreams.
528
00:30:38,962 --> 00:30:40,380
[Tania] When you dream.
529
00:30:40,463 --> 00:30:41,881
[Samin laughs]
530
00:30:43,716 --> 00:30:46,177
[Samin] Okay, so you've brought me
everything for tasting.
531
00:30:46,261 --> 00:30:50,014
So, we have the two years,
24 months at least,
532
00:30:50,557 --> 00:30:52,058
-30 months...
-Yeah.
533
00:30:52,267 --> 00:30:53,434
-...40 months.
-Yes.
534
00:30:53,518 --> 00:30:57,021
Okay, can you tell me a little bit
about how to taste?
535
00:30:57,313 --> 00:30:58,773
What am I tasting for?
536
00:30:58,857 --> 00:31:02,277
You have to start from the youngest age.
537
00:31:02,360 --> 00:31:04,988
-So you have to begin with 24.
-Okay.
538
00:31:05,071 --> 00:31:08,825
[Tania] When you taste the first aging,
you taste the milk.
539
00:31:08,908 --> 00:31:09,742
Okay.
540
00:31:10,660 --> 00:31:12,996
-It's sweet.
-Yes.
541
00:31:13,288 --> 00:31:14,873
-It's rich in flavor.
-[Tania] Yeah.
542
00:31:15,498 --> 00:31:17,500
It's so good. It's so good.
543
00:31:17,584 --> 00:31:19,794
-It's bringing tears to my eyes.
-Thank you.
544
00:31:19,919 --> 00:31:20,837
It's so good.
545
00:31:20,920 --> 00:31:23,756
I don't know how it could get better,
but let's try.
546
00:31:25,008 --> 00:31:29,387
And this wheel is about 36 months.
547
00:31:29,554 --> 00:31:34,809
You are starting to feel in your mouth
the crystals of tyrosine.
548
00:31:34,893 --> 00:31:36,477
Yes, the tyrosine,
549
00:31:36,561 --> 00:31:38,062
-which is an amino acid.
-Yes.
550
00:31:38,146 --> 00:31:40,565
You can hear it crunching,
you crunch on it.
551
00:31:40,648 --> 00:31:42,066
And so the 40 month,
552
00:31:42,150 --> 00:31:45,153
it's like a fireworks parade
of all these tyrosine crystals.
553
00:31:46,154 --> 00:31:48,698
This is dessert.
This is what you eat for dessert.
554
00:31:48,781 --> 00:31:50,909
This is a candy of Parmesan.
555
00:31:51,367 --> 00:31:53,536
-Pure flavor.
-Right.
556
00:31:53,703 --> 00:31:55,997
-It's still sweet.
-It's so sweet.
557
00:31:56,623 --> 00:31:59,042
It just hits every taste bud
in your mouth.
558
00:31:59,125 --> 00:32:01,461
It's salty, sweet.
559
00:32:01,544 --> 00:32:04,088
There's a little bit of bitter,
a nice bitterness.
560
00:32:04,172 --> 00:32:07,383
There's umami, which is the crystals,
the beautiful flavor.
561
00:32:07,800 --> 00:32:09,802
I think I'm just going to live here now.
562
00:32:11,220 --> 00:32:12,680
Just eat cheese and butter
563
00:32:13,014 --> 00:32:14,098
-until I die.
-Yeah.
564
00:32:14,182 --> 00:32:15,391
-And ricotta.
-[Tania chuckles]
565
00:32:19,520 --> 00:32:20,897
[Samin] Fat determines flavor.
566
00:32:21,940 --> 00:32:24,943
But it also creates
five distinct textures:
567
00:32:25,902 --> 00:32:28,738
creamy, flaky, crisp, tender, and light.
568
00:32:30,490 --> 00:32:32,867
Combining a variety of textures
in one dish
569
00:32:32,951 --> 00:32:35,078
can make a meal much more delightful
570
00:32:35,620 --> 00:32:36,704
and surprising.
571
00:32:36,788 --> 00:32:38,790
[no audible dialogue]
572
00:32:40,833 --> 00:32:43,419
[relaxed instrumental music playing,
bell tolling]
573
00:32:58,977 --> 00:33:00,436
[bike spinning]
574
00:33:02,188 --> 00:33:04,524
-[Samin] Hi, good morning.
-[vendor] Good morning.
575
00:33:04,607 --> 00:33:07,568
-[Samin] The artichokes are beautiful.
-[Emanuela] The artichokes.
576
00:33:07,652 --> 00:33:09,946
They make you fall in love, really.
577
00:33:12,907 --> 00:33:14,492
[vendor] You can eat these raw.
578
00:33:14,742 --> 00:33:17,954
[Samin] Peel it first.
I've never done this before. [laughs]
579
00:33:18,037 --> 00:33:20,331
It's almost like eating chocolate.
580
00:33:20,415 --> 00:33:22,458
[man] The best cheese
in the world is here.
581
00:33:22,542 --> 00:33:23,710
[Samin] Here?
582
00:33:23,793 --> 00:33:26,879
-It's here.
-But have you tasted them all?
583
00:33:26,963 --> 00:33:28,381
-I've tasted everything.
-Okay.
584
00:33:28,464 --> 00:33:32,093
[Samin] I came to Tuscany
12 years ago, 13 years ago,
585
00:33:32,176 --> 00:33:36,264
and I really miss
all of the fresh pecorino.
586
00:33:36,347 --> 00:33:37,265
That one.
587
00:33:37,348 --> 00:33:39,183
Because we don't have them in America.
588
00:33:39,267 --> 00:33:42,311
-This one.
-Yes. Can I taste some?
589
00:33:42,395 --> 00:33:43,813
-Of course!
-Okay, thanks!
590
00:33:44,188 --> 00:33:45,732
How many months old is this one?
591
00:33:45,815 --> 00:33:47,567
One month old.
592
00:33:47,650 --> 00:33:48,568
One month?
593
00:33:48,651 --> 00:33:52,071
I'd also like to try one that
has been aged for a really long time.
594
00:33:53,364 --> 00:33:54,615
Oh, my God. So good.
595
00:33:54,699 --> 00:33:56,743
Thank you, sir, how nice.
596
00:33:56,993 --> 00:33:58,161
Beautiful work.
597
00:33:58,244 --> 00:33:59,954
And this porchetta.
598
00:34:00,038 --> 00:34:02,123
Want to eat some porchetta for breakfast?
599
00:34:02,582 --> 00:34:03,458
Yes.
600
00:34:03,833 --> 00:34:05,543
[Samin, in Italian] We'll have a sandwich.
601
00:34:05,960 --> 00:34:08,254
How long does it take to cook?
602
00:34:09,088 --> 00:34:11,299
For a pig this size,
it takes about six hours.
603
00:34:11,382 --> 00:34:12,216
Six hours?
604
00:34:12,300 --> 00:34:15,386
You use garlic, salt, pepper--
605
00:34:16,387 --> 00:34:17,972
-Fennel, no?
-Fennel.
606
00:34:18,056 --> 00:34:18,973
Sage and rosemary?
607
00:34:19,807 --> 00:34:21,017
-Only fennel.
-Okay.
608
00:34:21,100 --> 00:34:24,020
They each have their own flavor
so you don't mix them all together.
609
00:34:24,103 --> 00:34:27,190
Tuscan cuisine is Tuscan cuisine.
610
00:34:27,565 --> 00:34:29,192
Okay, let's have a taste.
611
00:34:32,695 --> 00:34:36,949
When you get the crispy skin
and then the tender center, it's so good.
612
00:34:37,450 --> 00:34:39,327
Traditional Tuscan bread has no salt.
613
00:34:39,410 --> 00:34:43,206
Because the porchetta is very fatty,
very salty.
614
00:34:43,289 --> 00:34:45,875
So they're kind of the perfect match
for each other.
615
00:34:46,292 --> 00:34:48,336
[in Italian] Really, really good.
616
00:34:48,419 --> 00:34:52,548
Look. Nice and...
Nice and fatty, huh? [laughs]
617
00:34:59,847 --> 00:35:02,600
Food doesn't have to be complicated
to be delicious.
618
00:35:04,435 --> 00:35:05,603
Over the centuries,
619
00:35:05,853 --> 00:35:08,397
Italians have perfected the art
of using fat
620
00:35:08,481 --> 00:35:12,151
to transform the simplest ingredients
into a great meal.
621
00:35:18,449 --> 00:35:20,368
[bird chirping]
622
00:35:20,451 --> 00:35:22,161
I have to tell you the story.
623
00:35:22,453 --> 00:35:25,414
I don't know if you remember
about the first time that we met.
624
00:35:25,498 --> 00:35:28,584
You were visiting Chez Panisse.
You were chopping vegetables.
625
00:35:28,668 --> 00:35:30,795
You were just using your knife
and cutting it up
626
00:35:30,878 --> 00:35:33,214
-into whatever pieces--
-A mountain of--
627
00:35:33,297 --> 00:35:35,925
A mountain of onions, yes.
628
00:35:36,008 --> 00:35:40,471
And Chez Panisse were very strict
about doing everything the French way.
629
00:35:40,763 --> 00:35:44,350
So it was all about perfectly cutting
everything into little squares.
630
00:35:44,433 --> 00:35:48,104
And you were standing there at the end
of the kitchen just chopping like this.
631
00:35:48,646 --> 00:35:51,190
I just assumed you were like a volunteer
or something.
632
00:35:51,274 --> 00:35:53,776
Only later did I realize
that you were actually
633
00:35:53,860 --> 00:35:55,319
the Saint of Sofrito.
634
00:35:55,403 --> 00:35:57,029
La Santa del Sofrito.
635
00:35:57,738 --> 00:36:00,408
This really lies at the base
of Tuscan cooking.
636
00:36:00,491 --> 00:36:04,787
This incredible thing that disappears,
it turns into almost, um...
637
00:36:05,204 --> 00:36:09,417
a paste at the base of the food
that disappears and creates flavor.
638
00:36:09,500 --> 00:36:11,544
But the amazing thing about this ragù
639
00:36:11,627 --> 00:36:14,297
is we're layering
many different kinds of fat into it.
640
00:36:14,672 --> 00:36:17,633
So we start with the olive oil
in the sofrito,
641
00:36:17,717 --> 00:36:21,137
pork that has fat in it, beef fat...
642
00:36:22,221 --> 00:36:23,222
beef fat...
643
00:36:23,973 --> 00:36:24,974
and the milk.
644
00:36:31,105 --> 00:36:32,732
[laughing, sniffling]
645
00:36:36,235 --> 00:36:38,529
-You're laughing and crying--
-Laughing and crying.
646
00:36:38,613 --> 00:36:41,991
That's pretty much the story of my life.
[cringes, laughs]
647
00:36:47,455 --> 00:36:49,332
This is one of those important things
648
00:36:49,415 --> 00:36:53,502
that I think home cooks always forget,
is how important it is to preheat the pan.
649
00:36:53,794 --> 00:36:56,422
You have to heat the pan
before you heat the oil,
650
00:36:56,756 --> 00:37:01,177
and you taught me that it takes
a lot of olive oil to make sofrito.
651
00:37:02,845 --> 00:37:06,766
The fat that you choose
sets the dish off on a path.
652
00:37:06,849 --> 00:37:09,769
If you cook the sofrito in butter,
it's not sofrito.
653
00:37:10,519 --> 00:37:12,605
And when you hear the sizzle,
you can add it all.
654
00:37:12,688 --> 00:37:14,357
[sizzling]
655
00:37:19,946 --> 00:37:23,282
You'll keep cooking-- this probably
takes almost 45 minutes, right?
656
00:37:23,366 --> 00:37:25,368
For the vegetables and the beef?
657
00:37:25,451 --> 00:37:27,328
-Yes, it takes, like, 45.
-For everything.
658
00:37:27,411 --> 00:37:30,248
[sizzling]
659
00:37:39,298 --> 00:37:40,716
[swishing]
660
00:37:41,926 --> 00:37:43,344
[sizzling]
661
00:37:57,817 --> 00:38:00,361
Before I came to you,
my job at Chez Panisse
662
00:38:00,444 --> 00:38:02,071
was to make the pasta every day.
663
00:38:02,446 --> 00:38:04,407
And they taught me this crazy method
664
00:38:04,490 --> 00:38:06,951
that involved
so many different calculations.
665
00:38:07,034 --> 00:38:10,079
It was so complicated,
with all these different kinds of flours
666
00:38:10,162 --> 00:38:12,581
and different measurements of eggs
and egg yolks.
667
00:38:12,665 --> 00:38:15,793
And then when I came to you,
you taught me the simplest way.
668
00:38:16,210 --> 00:38:19,088
It's just flour and eggs
to make handmade pasta, right?
669
00:38:19,171 --> 00:38:20,840
-Yes.
-And the eggs give the richness
670
00:38:20,923 --> 00:38:21,882
the incredible fat.
671
00:38:21,966 --> 00:38:24,635
And you used more eggs
than I had ever seen.
672
00:38:24,719 --> 00:38:28,472
This is why in Italy
we call it "pasta all'uovo."
673
00:38:28,556 --> 00:38:30,433
Pasta all'uovo, yes!
674
00:38:30,516 --> 00:38:35,021
Flour and eggs,
and a little water in case...
675
00:38:35,396 --> 00:38:36,939
-you need it.
-To bring it together.
676
00:38:37,023 --> 00:38:39,984
Exactly. And to give
a little bit of flexibility.
677
00:38:40,067 --> 00:38:42,653
This flour here, I learned from you,
is so special,
678
00:38:42,737 --> 00:38:45,740
here you call it grano tenero
and grano duro.
679
00:38:45,823 --> 00:38:48,075
-Soft flour and hard flour.
-Exactly.
680
00:38:48,159 --> 00:38:51,454
And so the hard flour
gives it a little bit of extra, um,
681
00:38:51,537 --> 00:38:53,581
-texture, right? Chewiness?
-That's...
682
00:38:53,664 --> 00:38:56,959
What I always explain
to people who come here:
683
00:38:57,043 --> 00:38:59,879
in Italy, we love pasta al dente.
684
00:39:00,212 --> 00:39:01,714
All right.
685
00:39:01,797 --> 00:39:04,925
Six full eggs plus two yolks.
686
00:39:05,009 --> 00:39:07,386
-For extra richness, for extra fat.
-Yes.
687
00:39:08,054 --> 00:39:10,473
Start to whisk it with the fork.
688
00:39:12,141 --> 00:39:14,185
Add a little bit more flour.
689
00:39:14,935 --> 00:39:16,020
Softy, softly.
690
00:39:16,103 --> 00:39:18,105
[soft whisking]
691
00:39:18,731 --> 00:39:21,525
-[Benedetta] It's like music.
-[Samin] It is just like music.
692
00:39:22,610 --> 00:39:23,527
[Benedetta] Okay.
693
00:39:24,528 --> 00:39:27,323
[Samin] Everybody thinks
making pasta is so difficult.
694
00:39:27,406 --> 00:39:29,033
-It's not difficult.
-[Benedetta] No.
695
00:39:29,116 --> 00:39:31,452
[Samin] It's just about going slowly
696
00:39:32,244 --> 00:39:33,704
and using the senses.
697
00:39:38,084 --> 00:39:40,586
-It's escaping. [laughs]
-No, no.
698
00:39:55,434 --> 00:39:57,978
-[Benedetta] It's chemistry.
-It is.
699
00:39:58,062 --> 00:40:01,065
Starch and gluten have to get together
700
00:40:01,232 --> 00:40:04,026
with the fat that is the egg yolk.
701
00:40:07,738 --> 00:40:10,074
And it's starting to sort of...
702
00:40:10,908 --> 00:40:12,076
resist the touch.
703
00:40:12,159 --> 00:40:15,830
And this resistance to my thumb
is gonna be mirrored when I eat it
704
00:40:15,913 --> 00:40:19,875
to the resistance in my mouth,
the chewiness of the pasta.
705
00:40:19,959 --> 00:40:23,087
Sometimes for a lasagna,
I make it only with a soft flour,
706
00:40:23,170 --> 00:40:25,881
because I want really silky, soft noodle.
707
00:40:25,965 --> 00:40:27,925
But this we're going to eat with ragù,
708
00:40:28,008 --> 00:40:30,678
which is a really dense and meaty sauce.
709
00:40:30,761 --> 00:40:33,013
So we want something to stand up to it.
710
00:40:33,097 --> 00:40:35,099
[birds chirping]
711
00:40:37,810 --> 00:40:39,728
[wood crackling]
712
00:40:39,812 --> 00:40:41,939
So, let's see what it's like
after resting.
713
00:40:42,022 --> 00:40:44,400
-Wow. It has changed so much.
-[Benedetta laughs]
714
00:40:44,942 --> 00:40:47,653
It's-- The flour has absorbed
all of the egg.
715
00:40:47,736 --> 00:40:49,780
It's just much, much more pliable.
716
00:40:51,532 --> 00:40:53,742
So we're going to use the soft flour
717
00:40:53,826 --> 00:40:56,871
just to help us keep the pasta
from sticking.
718
00:40:59,415 --> 00:41:02,626
Basically, you want to work it evenly
in all directions.
719
00:41:02,710 --> 00:41:03,961
[Benedetta] Yes.
720
00:41:05,212 --> 00:41:07,548
So I'm using my body weight.
721
00:41:07,631 --> 00:41:11,010
It's coming from my legs
and my... haunches,
722
00:41:11,093 --> 00:41:12,595
where I have all my power.
723
00:41:12,887 --> 00:41:15,139
But as this pasta
724
00:41:15,723 --> 00:41:16,724
grows thinner,
725
00:41:16,807 --> 00:41:20,728
the action changes
and this is one of those incredible things
726
00:41:20,811 --> 00:41:23,439
that I never understood
until I had to do it by hand.
727
00:41:24,106 --> 00:41:27,109
In order to get the work done
without breaking your body,
728
00:41:27,193 --> 00:41:31,280
a kind of beautiful efficiency
has always had to evolve.
729
00:41:31,363 --> 00:41:33,866
If you are forced to make pasta
for 20 people,
730
00:41:33,949 --> 00:41:35,618
you won't make it through the day
731
00:41:35,701 --> 00:41:37,620
because you also have to make
ten other courses
732
00:41:37,703 --> 00:41:39,622
and there's all this work to do.
733
00:41:39,705 --> 00:41:43,834
So, women have really invented
these amazing maneuvers
734
00:41:44,502 --> 00:41:45,669
to preserve energy.
735
00:41:55,471 --> 00:41:58,474
[flour gently rustling]
736
00:42:00,643 --> 00:42:02,478
-[rustling]
-[Benedetta] This is a...
737
00:42:02,895 --> 00:42:06,524
There is a sort of noise that you... Hmm?
738
00:42:07,274 --> 00:42:09,109
[rustling]
739
00:42:13,864 --> 00:42:17,284
[rustling]
740
00:42:19,161 --> 00:42:21,997
[Samin, in Italian]
Wow. What a beautiful job.
741
00:42:22,665 --> 00:42:24,375
[Benedetta] It's almost transparent.
742
00:42:25,834 --> 00:42:26,752
[Benedetta humming]
743
00:42:28,921 --> 00:42:29,922
[Samin] Flour here.
744
00:42:30,005 --> 00:42:33,384
I like to make wet pasta,
but I don't want it ever to stick.
745
00:42:33,467 --> 00:42:35,469
So I just use obscene amounts of this.
746
00:42:45,563 --> 00:42:46,730
That's it.
747
00:42:49,233 --> 00:42:51,151
-And this way they don't all stick.
-Bravo, Samin!
748
00:42:51,235 --> 00:42:52,236
Bravo.
749
00:42:52,319 --> 00:42:53,404
[both laugh]
750
00:42:53,487 --> 00:42:56,031
I've just made something quite imperfectly
751
00:42:56,115 --> 00:42:59,493
that there have been people making
for thousands of years before me.
752
00:43:01,745 --> 00:43:05,374
[sizzling, instrumental music playing]
753
00:44:20,574 --> 00:44:23,410
[music resolves]
754
00:44:24,119 --> 00:44:26,121
[fire crackling]
755
00:44:28,040 --> 00:44:30,834
-Ciao, Samin. How are you?
-Hi, Lorenzo!
756
00:44:31,543 --> 00:44:33,379
-Wow! [laughs]
-I have something for you.
757
00:44:34,463 --> 00:44:36,131
-[Lorenzo] Eh?
-What is--
758
00:44:36,215 --> 00:44:38,217
-[Lorenzo screams]
-[Samin laughs]
759
00:44:38,801 --> 00:44:41,387
Hi. What have you brought?
760
00:44:41,470 --> 00:44:43,764
-The porchetta.
-Poor little piglet.
761
00:44:43,847 --> 00:44:45,557
Oh, it's beautiful!
762
00:44:45,641 --> 00:44:47,851
[Samin] Okay, show me all the salumi.
763
00:44:48,686 --> 00:44:51,146
And does this capocollo come from
764
00:44:51,230 --> 00:44:52,731
-the neck?
-Yes.
765
00:44:56,151 --> 00:45:00,280
[Samin] What's the percentage of fat here?
766
00:45:00,739 --> 00:45:03,659
It's a pretty high percentage.
767
00:45:03,742 --> 00:45:08,205
-Around 45%.
-Indeed!
768
00:45:08,288 --> 00:45:12,459
Beautiful.
That's why it's so good. [laughs]
769
00:45:14,962 --> 00:45:18,173
-Is there liver in here, too?
-Yes, we put the liver in.
770
00:45:18,257 --> 00:45:19,842
-We have to use everything.
-Yes.
771
00:45:20,634 --> 00:45:22,761
-See, it's cooked nicely inside.
-Mm-hmm.
772
00:45:22,845 --> 00:45:27,891
This is the part here
that's really full of fat.
773
00:45:28,100 --> 00:45:32,271
The prosciutto side has less fat.
774
00:45:32,354 --> 00:45:35,524
-That's for those who want to diet.
-[Samin laughs]
775
00:45:35,607 --> 00:45:37,943
["Quando Penso Al Tuo Sorriso"
by Daniele Benati playing]
776
00:45:39,278 --> 00:45:44,074
♪ Quando penso al tuo sorriso ♪
777
00:45:45,242 --> 00:45:49,037
[all cheering and clapping]
778
00:45:49,997 --> 00:45:51,665
[Samin] We have some fried artichokes,
779
00:45:51,749 --> 00:45:55,002
this beautiful sage is from our garden.
780
00:45:58,714 --> 00:46:00,924
-[Samin] They're so good.
-Buonissimo.
781
00:46:01,633 --> 00:46:03,343
[indistinct dialogue]
782
00:46:03,427 --> 00:46:07,890
♪ Quando penso al paradiso ♪
783
00:46:09,558 --> 00:46:13,187
♪ Vedo solo l'oochi tuoi ♪
784
00:46:16,607 --> 00:46:20,444
[indistinct dialogue]
785
00:46:23,113 --> 00:46:24,990
[guests clapping]
786
00:46:31,830 --> 00:46:33,749
[Emanuela, in Italian] And now, a toast.
787
00:46:33,832 --> 00:46:37,544
Thank you, Samin! Cheers to you.
788
00:46:37,628 --> 00:46:39,922
-Grazie!
-Thank you so much!
789
00:46:40,839 --> 00:46:43,675
[Samin, in Italian] I'm the one
to thank you guys. Lorenzo--
790
00:46:43,759 --> 00:46:45,260
-[glasses clink]
-Thanks, Lorenzo.
791
00:46:45,344 --> 00:46:48,263
-Thanks, Patricia.
-Oh, Patricia...
792
00:46:48,347 --> 00:46:51,350
[dialogue fades out, outro music playing]
61551
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