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Emerging from a dawn mist
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00:00:18,640 --> 00:00:22,130
is a natural way
to come upon this island.
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00:00:22,420 --> 00:00:25,560
Seamus Heaney wrote,
"We have no prairies
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"to slice a sky at evening.
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00:00:27,810 --> 00:00:32,130
"Everywhere the eye concedes
to encroaching horizon."
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00:00:37,100 --> 00:00:39,910
Here, history stands up in the monuments
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00:00:39,910 --> 00:00:42,300
of saints and scholars who,
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00:00:42,300 --> 00:00:46,010
from Celtic times made it
a hub of learning.
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00:00:46,620 --> 00:00:49,760
In Ireland's mix of people
and influences,
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00:00:49,760 --> 00:00:52,910
the written word is
still a magic coin,
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00:00:52,910 --> 00:00:54,990
an international currency.
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00:00:55,310 --> 00:00:59,590
The pens of W.B. Yeats,
George Bernard Shaw,
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00:00:59,590 --> 00:01:03,690
James Joyce, and others,
strike universal music
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00:01:03,690 --> 00:01:07,740
from the tempo and temper of
their people.
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00:01:09,530 --> 00:01:13,680
This land has left its mark on
Ireland's people,
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00:01:13,680 --> 00:01:15,240
and they in turn,
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00:01:15,240 --> 00:01:18,090
have made their mark on
the world's esteem.
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00:01:18,090 --> 00:01:21,090
(calm Irish folk music)
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00:02:09,390 --> 00:02:12,390
(calm Irish music)
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00:02:21,450 --> 00:02:24,450
(calm piano music)
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00:03:10,910 --> 00:03:14,250
In Ireland, the past is ever present.
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00:03:16,530 --> 00:03:20,020
Monasteries punctuate the priorities
and patterns of living
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00:03:20,020 --> 00:03:23,200
of a nearly 2,000 year old Christianity.
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00:03:23,860 --> 00:03:26,520
These were the dynamos
of prayer and learning,
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00:03:26,520 --> 00:03:30,600
driving a commerce of God,
a trade in thoughts.
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Not too much going by the book,
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00:03:33,870 --> 00:03:36,940
nor bounded within straight
and ruly lines.
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00:03:37,320 --> 00:03:39,390
Almost grudgingly, they've consented
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to live and work in towns,
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themselves not greatly regular.
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00:03:44,810 --> 00:03:47,810
(calm Irish music)
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00:04:19,200 --> 00:04:21,630
From the Rock of Cashel,
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00:04:21,630 --> 00:04:25,060
the spiritual and temple power
of kings and bishops,
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00:04:25,060 --> 00:04:27,710
spread their rule over
the broad lands of Munster
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00:04:27,710 --> 00:04:29,910
in the early middle ages.
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00:04:29,910 --> 00:04:32,910
(calm Irish music)
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00:04:37,050 --> 00:04:39,810
Other times, other priorities.
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00:04:40,190 --> 00:04:43,130
The Dukes of Devonshire
once lived in Lismore Castle
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00:04:43,130 --> 00:04:44,940
in the Blackwater Valley.
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00:04:45,640 --> 00:04:48,070
They, and their early English neighbors,
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00:04:48,070 --> 00:04:51,610
Sir Walter Raleigh and
poet Edmund Spenser,
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00:04:51,610 --> 00:04:55,350
attempted to impose their
own order on the land,
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a fleeting gesture.
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(calm music)
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(upbeat Irish drum music)
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The poet Yeats once described
the streets of London as,
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00:05:37,500 --> 00:05:40,080
"Lonely London pavement grey."
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00:05:40,420 --> 00:05:42,950
But the words apply here just as well.
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00:05:43,480 --> 00:05:45,280
Yeats took refuge not far from
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00:05:45,280 --> 00:05:47,720
this flat expanse of limestone rock
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of the Burren in County Clare.
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The Burren is like a moonscape,
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00:05:53,030 --> 00:05:55,650
but not without its hidden beauties,
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00:05:55,650 --> 00:05:58,980
for in the spring and
summer the old green roads
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00:05:58,980 --> 00:06:02,700
of the drovers and the pathways
that the sheep tread out
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00:06:02,700 --> 00:06:05,520
leave the drifts of alpine blooms,
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00:06:05,520 --> 00:06:08,550
secret orchids, and the blue gentian.
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00:06:08,550 --> 00:06:11,550
(upbeat Irish drum music)
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00:06:17,880 --> 00:06:20,880
(lively Irish folk music)
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00:06:31,580 --> 00:06:35,700
The Cliffs of Moher, thrust up
from prehistoric seas,
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produce fossil stone for the hearths
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of homes and stately halls.
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Only the brave press close to the edge,
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peering down to the dawn of time
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where the sea scribbles white waves
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on the ancient layered rock face.
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The wild sounds of sea birds counterpoint
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the piping music of
Willie Clancy's music school nearby.
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(lively Irish folk music)
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00:07:36,630 --> 00:07:39,630
(upbeat Irish music)
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00:08:21,750 --> 00:08:23,760
The sand dunes of the Kerry Coast
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00:08:23,760 --> 00:08:26,470
show a gentler front
to the Atlantic Ocean.
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00:08:26,850 --> 00:08:29,110
Famous golf links border the strand
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00:08:29,110 --> 00:08:31,740
and pose the ultimate test
of any Irishman.
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(upbeat Irish music)
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00:08:40,760 --> 00:08:43,060
Nearby, Ballybunion is famous for
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its annual bachelor's festival,
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00:08:45,250 --> 00:08:48,990
a contest to find
Ireland's most eligible man.
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The event is not taken too seriously.
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But just a few miles down the coast
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the annual Rose of
Tralee contest for women
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is a more prestigious occasion.
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(upbeat Irish music)
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(cacophony of seagulls)
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"Make of the stones a pillow for my head
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"and thou shall see angels
ascending and descending"
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an ancient poet once wrote.
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18 miles out in the Atlantic,
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during the dark ages of
the seventh and eighth centuries,
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this was western
Christianity's last outpost
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00:10:26,810 --> 00:10:29,660
for well over 100 years.
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00:10:30,770 --> 00:10:35,690
700 feet above raging seas sits
Skellig Michael.
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The monk's beehive huts
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still cling like limpets to the rocks.
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No one today can imagine
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such harsh isolation and deprivation.
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(calm Irish folk music)
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00:10:54,520 --> 00:10:57,740
Homeric themes of love, death, suffering
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live in beautiful, simple prose
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etched from the Irish language
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in masterpieces of literature.
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Toileanach,
The Islandman, Fiche Bliain ag Fas
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00:11:08,240 --> 00:11:10,240
20 Years a'Growing,
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00:11:10,240 --> 00:11:11,880
they were written by people who lived
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at the end of the Dingle Peninsula.
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These are treacherous waters,
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the grave alike of
ships of the Spanish Armada,
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00:11:23,070 --> 00:11:26,700
who's names ring down
the centuries like a litany,
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00:11:26,700 --> 00:11:28,750
and of those people in this century
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00:11:28,750 --> 00:11:30,160
who lost their lives following
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the shoveling of mackerel for a living.
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As they said themselves,
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their light will not be seen again.
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Their descendants who live along
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the eastern seaboard of America
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often celebrate the old days
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in the next parish across the seas,
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for Dingle is the next town to America.
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(calm Irish music)
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Ancient texts say
Saint Brendan the Navigator
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and his monks set out from these parts
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before Columbus or Leif Erikson.
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00:12:24,930 --> 00:12:27,060
Just as Patrick and other missionaries
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00:12:27,060 --> 00:12:28,830
brought the faith to Ireland,
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00:12:28,830 --> 00:12:31,700
Ireland's people in turn
have shared their values
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00:12:31,700 --> 00:12:35,270
with the old and the new world ever since.
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It's entirely right that places
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00:12:38,740 --> 00:12:40,700
like Waterville and Valentia
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were the bases from
which the first telephone
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cable was laid for
the modern communications era.
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The towns today are popular destinations
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along Ireland's famous Ring of Kerry.
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(calm Irish music)
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00:13:21,750 --> 00:13:24,750
(calm piano music)
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00:13:39,630 --> 00:13:43,130
May morning, once every seven years,
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the magical day of the ancient God Val,
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the chief of the O'Donoghues,
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00:13:48,550 --> 00:13:52,310
rises from the waters of
Lough Leane on a white steed.
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Such stories about particular families
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are still told in
their particular areas of origin.
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In Ireland there's always
been a fierce determination
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to keep the name on the land,
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00:14:04,400 --> 00:14:07,290
and still the McCarthys, the O'Neills,
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00:14:07,290 --> 00:14:09,200
the O'Byrnes, and the Clancys
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00:14:09,200 --> 00:14:12,510
can be found where they've always been,
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as rooted as
the 10,000 year old yew forests
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in the mountains around Killarney.
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00:14:17,790 --> 00:14:20,790
(calm piano music)
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00:15:10,760 --> 00:15:13,760
(calm Irish music)
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In the south coast's many fingered inlets,
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the sea's delivery
has brought a thousand ships,
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and seen as many go.
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From Wexford and Waterford, to Bantry Bay,
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the sea has been a trade route,
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a playground, and a grave.
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British fleets have sheltered
and been supplied,
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where legendary Milesians
made their first landfall
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00:16:04,390 --> 00:16:06,380
in leather covered boats.
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00:16:06,560 --> 00:16:11,140
Vikings, Normans,
booty hunters from far and near
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have sought the river mouths of
Nore and Suir,
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00:16:14,730 --> 00:16:16,760
Blackwater, and Lee,
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00:16:16,760 --> 00:16:21,670
safe havens from which
to seek further fame and fortune.
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(calm Irish music)
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00:17:00,680 --> 00:17:02,830
Like soldiers in every age,
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the garrison of the great star-shaped
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00:17:04,900 --> 00:17:07,460
17th century Charles Fort,
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00:17:07,460 --> 00:17:11,020
gave fanciful names of
birds of prey to their cannon,
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00:17:11,020 --> 00:17:14,820
names like falcon and striker.
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The fort is now restored
as part of Ireland's
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00:17:17,920 --> 00:17:22,490
mixed heritage of invaders and invaded.
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00:17:24,090 --> 00:17:26,530
One of them, a McCarthy chief,
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00:17:26,530 --> 00:17:29,640
is supposed to have used
his silver tongued eloquence
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to persuade the first Elizabeth
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00:17:31,750 --> 00:17:34,760
to let him keep his
stronghold at Blarney Castle.
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00:17:34,760 --> 00:17:37,760
(calm Irish music)
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00:17:43,270 --> 00:17:45,760
The gift of the gab persists
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00:17:45,760 --> 00:17:48,730
and is claimed by
the lilting tones of Cork men,
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00:17:48,730 --> 00:17:53,000
poets, sculptors,
and masters of the short story,
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00:17:53,000 --> 00:17:54,680
like Frank O'Connor.
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00:17:54,680 --> 00:17:57,680
(calm Irish music)
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00:18:09,530 --> 00:18:12,790
After enduring centuries of invasion,
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00:18:12,790 --> 00:18:15,800
tens of thousands of Irish families
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00:18:15,800 --> 00:18:18,270
were forced to give up their homeland
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00:18:18,270 --> 00:18:20,570
in the mid-1800's.
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00:18:20,770 --> 00:18:23,470
Famine and destitution drove them
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onto the trackless sea.
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00:18:25,740 --> 00:18:29,250
It became a road where
those have gone before,
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00:18:29,250 --> 00:18:31,520
were a small far off light
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00:18:31,520 --> 00:18:35,140
beckoning to those languishing at home.
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00:18:36,450 --> 00:18:40,040
The Irish word for immigrant, jorie,
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00:18:40,040 --> 00:18:44,240
holds within its teardrop
meaning a tide of sorrow
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which has carried away a million hearts.
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00:18:49,840 --> 00:18:52,600
As they set sail across the Atlantic,
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00:18:52,600 --> 00:18:56,830
the last visible bit of
Ireland fading into the grey
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was Fastnet Rock.
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00:18:59,140 --> 00:19:01,490
For those who were able to return,
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00:19:01,490 --> 00:19:05,040
it emerged as
the first tangible sign of home.
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00:19:05,410 --> 00:19:09,680
As one saying goes,
"The times they are a changing."
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00:19:10,300 --> 00:19:13,390
The wild geese return
along the beckoning beacon
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00:19:13,390 --> 00:19:18,540
of better times, or never
have to go away at all.
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(Irish music)
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00:19:39,800 --> 00:19:42,800
(tranquil music)
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00:20:00,970 --> 00:20:04,480
For centuries,
the most settled part of Ireland
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00:20:04,480 --> 00:20:08,500
was England's very limited bridge head,
The Pale,
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00:20:08,500 --> 00:20:10,620
part of the province of Leinster,
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00:20:10,620 --> 00:20:14,400
and the only place
the crown's ranked ran freely.
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00:20:14,750 --> 00:20:17,950
Here, the organizing flair
of the Norman invaders
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00:20:17,950 --> 00:20:19,710
introduced religious orders
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00:20:19,710 --> 00:20:23,610
from the continent,
Cistercians, Augustinians.
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00:20:23,610 --> 00:20:26,610
(tranquil music)
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00:20:47,160 --> 00:20:49,730
Man's interaction with his fate
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00:20:49,730 --> 00:20:51,830
and his attempts to divine powers
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00:20:51,830 --> 00:20:54,310
beyond his daily existence here
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00:20:54,310 --> 00:20:57,540
go back beyond the great pyramid of Egypt
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00:20:57,540 --> 00:21:00,380
to neolithic Newgrange.
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00:21:00,820 --> 00:21:03,600
Here the sun's rays still strike directly
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00:21:03,600 --> 00:21:05,950
into this mounded burial chamber
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00:21:05,950 --> 00:21:08,970
at each dawn of the winter solstice.
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00:21:09,150 --> 00:21:11,510
The cycle of birth and death,
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00:21:11,510 --> 00:21:13,750
and the rhythm of the years work
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00:21:13,750 --> 00:21:17,180
was settled and celebrated in rituals
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00:21:17,180 --> 00:21:19,660
that still retain their mystery.
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These are sacred lands,
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00:21:24,850 --> 00:21:28,310
recognized as such by successive cultures.
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00:21:28,790 --> 00:21:32,200
The high kings at Tara
held annual festivals
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00:21:32,200 --> 00:21:34,610
and claimed a wary allegiance
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00:21:34,610 --> 00:21:36,680
from minor kings and chiefdoms.
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00:21:36,680 --> 00:21:39,680
(calm Irish music)
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00:22:28,720 --> 00:22:31,720
(lively Irish folk music)
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00:22:41,840 --> 00:22:45,730
The old Irish ballad,
"The Rocky Road to Dublin"
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00:22:45,730 --> 00:22:47,620
is now a tuneful counterpoint
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00:22:47,620 --> 00:22:50,760
to the city's high speed connections.
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00:22:50,870 --> 00:22:53,750
Dublin's tempo is ever quickening.
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00:22:54,260 --> 00:22:57,510
Europe's chattering classes
and culture vultures
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00:22:57,510 --> 00:23:00,580
have made it an essential stage
on their grand tour.
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00:23:00,580 --> 00:23:03,580
(lively Irish folk music)
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00:23:55,550 --> 00:23:57,690
From the gardens of Stephens Green
240
00:23:57,690 --> 00:23:59,410
to the Temple Bar District,
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00:23:59,410 --> 00:24:02,050
Dublin's new bohemian left bank,
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00:24:02,050 --> 00:24:05,780
you may still meet a friend,
an enemy, or a boor
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00:24:05,780 --> 00:24:07,460
round every bend.
244
00:24:08,200 --> 00:24:10,260
But Dublin's wit and repartee
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00:24:10,260 --> 00:24:12,140
leaves as little bitterness
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00:24:12,140 --> 00:24:14,650
as you'll find at the bottom of
a glass of Guinness.
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00:24:14,650 --> 00:24:17,650
(lively Irish folk music)
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00:24:41,600 --> 00:24:44,600
(calm Irish music)
249
00:24:55,900 --> 00:24:59,870
The ascendancy, founders of
the great houses in Ireland,
250
00:24:59,870 --> 00:25:01,710
have a mixed reputation.
251
00:25:02,020 --> 00:25:05,280
Their contributions to
the public and commonwealth
252
00:25:05,280 --> 00:25:08,410
seldom match the grandeur
of their lifestyle.
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00:25:08,720 --> 00:25:11,090
In general, the Anglo-Irish however,
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00:25:11,090 --> 00:25:14,930
were, in Yeat's words, "No mean people."
255
00:25:15,930 --> 00:25:19,160
Recurring great names are the Almanbutlers
256
00:25:19,160 --> 00:25:22,590
and the FitzGeralds,
who were the Earls of Kildare,
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00:25:22,590 --> 00:25:24,400
and Dukes of Leinster.
258
00:25:24,660 --> 00:25:28,250
Their townhouse,
now the seat of the Irish Parliament,
259
00:25:28,250 --> 00:25:30,370
the FitzGerald's were once considered
260
00:25:30,370 --> 00:25:32,480
the uncrowned kings of Ireland.
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00:25:32,480 --> 00:25:35,480
(calm Irish music)
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00:25:46,520 --> 00:25:48,480
The one place where the two ends
263
00:25:48,480 --> 00:25:51,380
of the social scale met on common ground
264
00:25:51,380 --> 00:25:53,380
was at the races.
265
00:25:53,380 --> 00:25:55,730
The horse could win a penny or a pound
266
00:25:55,730 --> 00:25:57,700
for lord or commoner.
267
00:25:57,700 --> 00:26:00,700
(intense Irish drum music)
268
00:26:12,750 --> 00:26:15,750
(calm Irish music)
269
00:26:35,900 --> 00:26:38,530
The state has inherited and maintains
270
00:26:38,530 --> 00:26:41,750
some of the best of the old great houses,
271
00:26:41,750 --> 00:26:44,760
where all Ireland's citizens can now visit
272
00:26:44,760 --> 00:26:48,450
their treasures and
take refreshment on the terraces.
273
00:26:55,540 --> 00:26:58,540
(lively Irish folk music)
274
00:27:06,490 --> 00:27:09,760
The Kilkenny Cats,
in their black and amber stripe,
275
00:27:09,760 --> 00:27:12,490
are notable modern exponents of hurling.
276
00:27:12,800 --> 00:27:15,080
The game began with a small leather ball
277
00:27:15,080 --> 00:27:18,030
being struck by teams
from neighboring perishes.
278
00:27:18,200 --> 00:27:21,250
The winners, being those
who at the end of the day
279
00:27:21,250 --> 00:27:24,810
had penetrated furthest into
their opponent's territory.
280
00:27:25,260 --> 00:27:28,280
Like diplomacy, it was a more peaceful way
281
00:27:28,280 --> 00:27:33,050
to let off steam than
the older murderous faction fights.
282
00:27:33,250 --> 00:27:35,800
It was war by other means.
283
00:27:35,800 --> 00:27:38,800
(lively Irish folk music)
284
00:28:16,650 --> 00:28:20,050
The smell of a hearth fire is,
for Irish people everywhere,
285
00:28:20,050 --> 00:28:21,930
a touch stone of memory.
286
00:28:21,940 --> 00:28:24,760
The past and the present come together.
287
00:28:25,390 --> 00:28:27,400
Where invading Elizabethan armies saw a
288
00:28:27,400 --> 00:28:30,010
soggy, savage wilderness where no sensible
289
00:28:30,010 --> 00:28:32,280
person would willingly set foot,
290
00:28:32,280 --> 00:28:35,880
peat is now milled for the domestic hearth
291
00:28:35,880 --> 00:28:38,970
and environment friendly power stations.
292
00:28:39,130 --> 00:28:40,920
Stripping the blanket bog
293
00:28:40,920 --> 00:28:43,210
turns back the pages of history,
294
00:28:43,210 --> 00:28:45,710
revealing ancient fields and pathways.
295
00:28:45,710 --> 00:28:48,710
(lively Irish folk music)
296
00:29:04,630 --> 00:29:07,630
(Irish music)
297
00:29:16,800 --> 00:29:19,800
(peaceful Irish folk music)
298
00:29:29,470 --> 00:29:32,980
Bare Benbulben's head
is where jealous Fionn
299
00:29:32,980 --> 00:29:36,660
of the warrior Fianna,
finally cornered young Diarmuid
300
00:29:36,660 --> 00:29:39,860
with whom his queen, Garinne,
had run away.
301
00:29:40,890 --> 00:29:44,260
These are heroes of
a half mythical Ireland,
302
00:29:44,260 --> 00:29:46,830
which W.B. Yeats invoked to underpin
303
00:29:46,830 --> 00:29:50,530
the republican dreams of
his own fickle love,
304
00:29:50,530 --> 00:29:55,170
Maud Gonne MacBride,
the subject of so much of his poetry.
305
00:29:55,890 --> 00:29:58,860
The Irish state which made Yeats a senator
306
00:29:58,860 --> 00:30:01,450
was uneasy with the liberal beliefs
307
00:30:01,450 --> 00:30:03,730
of this romantic Protestant.
308
00:30:03,970 --> 00:30:06,500
But they finally brought him home to rest
309
00:30:06,500 --> 00:30:08,730
in Drumcliff church yard.
310
00:30:09,410 --> 00:30:14,240
Cast a cold eye on life, on death,
311
00:30:14,240 --> 00:30:16,860
horsemen pass by.
312
00:30:16,860 --> 00:30:19,860
(peaceful Irish folk music)
313
00:31:09,460 --> 00:31:13,910
The wind has bundled up
the clouds over Knock Narea
314
00:31:13,910 --> 00:31:16,600
and thrown the thunder on the stones
315
00:31:16,600 --> 00:31:19,100
for all that Maeve can say.
316
00:31:19,670 --> 00:31:22,480
The grave cairn of
the powerful queen of Connacht
317
00:31:22,480 --> 00:31:24,540
who led the men of the west into Ulster
318
00:31:24,540 --> 00:31:26,990
to steal the brown bull of Cooley.
319
00:31:28,220 --> 00:31:31,370
The epic saga has been recited
and embellished
320
00:31:31,370 --> 00:31:34,330
from ancient times,
one of the great treasures
321
00:31:34,330 --> 00:31:35,930
of the Irish language.
322
00:31:35,930 --> 00:31:38,930
(peaceful Irish folk music)
323
00:32:15,800 --> 00:32:18,800
(upbeat music)
324
00:32:51,560 --> 00:32:54,850
Like ancient ruins, towering stacks
325
00:32:54,850 --> 00:32:58,270
loom off the mainland at Downpatrick Head.
326
00:32:58,700 --> 00:33:02,970
Slabs of cliff like dun briste,
the Broken Fort,
327
00:33:02,970 --> 00:33:07,810
testify to the dangerous coast
and treacherous waters.
328
00:33:08,300 --> 00:33:11,690
For centuries,
smugglers brought contraband goods,
329
00:33:11,690 --> 00:33:13,410
brandy and tobacco,
330
00:33:13,410 --> 00:33:16,450
ashore in the ports of
Ballina and Westport
331
00:33:16,450 --> 00:33:18,740
through these ungovernable seas.
332
00:33:18,740 --> 00:33:21,740
(upbeat music)
333
00:34:37,380 --> 00:34:40,100
Clew Bay's hundred islands lay
334
00:34:40,100 --> 00:34:44,070
like green stepping stones
in a peaceful sea,
335
00:34:44,070 --> 00:34:48,470
but once they were the domain of
traders and raiders,
336
00:34:48,470 --> 00:34:50,910
the seafaring O'Malleys.
337
00:34:51,200 --> 00:34:53,260
The O'Malleys traded with La Coruna
338
00:34:53,260 --> 00:34:55,320
and the ports of Northern Spain,
339
00:34:55,320 --> 00:34:58,630
and exacted tribute on the high seas.
340
00:34:58,810 --> 00:35:00,950
Their warrior chief was a woman,
341
00:35:00,950 --> 00:35:05,420
a she king, Grainne O'Malley, Granuaile.
342
00:35:05,510 --> 00:35:08,190
Her exploits were so cunning, so daring,
343
00:35:08,190 --> 00:35:11,480
that she captured the attention of
Queen Elizabeth herself,
344
00:35:11,480 --> 00:35:15,490
who extended a royal invitation
to visit in London.
345
00:35:15,490 --> 00:35:18,490
(calm music)
346
00:35:24,080 --> 00:35:26,700
There was a real Patrick
who came to Ireland
347
00:35:26,700 --> 00:35:28,840
about the middle of the fifth century.
348
00:35:28,840 --> 00:35:30,750
Writings like Patrick's grass plate,
349
00:35:30,750 --> 00:35:34,530
and other records testify to his mission,
350
00:35:34,530 --> 00:35:37,390
but other lesser figures have been subsumed
351
00:35:37,390 --> 00:35:40,710
into the mixture of fact and
legend surrounding him.
352
00:35:41,130 --> 00:35:44,410
Very real is the pain
for barefoot pilgrims
353
00:35:44,410 --> 00:35:46,890
wending their way
through early morning mist
354
00:35:46,890 --> 00:35:49,900
along the rocks and ridges of
Croagh Patrick.
355
00:35:50,200 --> 00:35:52,310
On the last Sunday of every July
356
00:35:52,310 --> 00:35:55,570
hundreds of penitents climb
this lonely mountain
357
00:35:55,570 --> 00:35:58,590
in an act of expiation and communion
358
00:35:58,590 --> 00:36:02,420
with powers acknowledged
long before Christianity.
359
00:36:06,750 --> 00:36:09,750
(upbeat Irish folk music)
360
00:36:30,250 --> 00:36:34,010
Galway City, the town square is overrun
361
00:36:34,010 --> 00:36:37,210
with Saturday shoppers on a summer's day.
362
00:36:37,660 --> 00:36:40,330
It was once called the City of the Tribes,
363
00:36:40,330 --> 00:36:43,220
home to chief Irish families,
364
00:36:43,220 --> 00:36:46,270
but maybe better titled City of Youth.
365
00:36:46,270 --> 00:36:50,180
College students and musicians vie
to make their mark here.
366
00:36:50,180 --> 00:36:52,540
And come night fall, the local atmosphere
367
00:36:52,540 --> 00:36:56,120
is elbow to elbow, pint to pint fun.
368
00:36:56,120 --> 00:36:59,120
(upbeat Irish folk music)
369
00:37:57,170 --> 00:37:59,340
The strange quality of light coming in
370
00:37:59,340 --> 00:38:01,940
from the far distances of the Atlantic
371
00:38:01,940 --> 00:38:03,910
plays among the clouds.
372
00:38:03,910 --> 00:38:05,900
It glints on the glacial pools,
373
00:38:05,900 --> 00:38:08,130
gathered in the rocky folds.
374
00:38:08,130 --> 00:38:09,410
It plays hide and seek,
375
00:38:09,410 --> 00:38:13,030
in and out of the steep sides of
the Twelve Bens,
376
00:38:13,030 --> 00:38:17,000
the range of mountains
stretching across Connemara.
377
00:38:20,830 --> 00:38:23,880
This is seriously lost country.
378
00:38:24,160 --> 00:38:27,180
It will not stoop
to suit any human purpose.
379
00:38:27,180 --> 00:38:29,520
The mountains brood in lofty silence
380
00:38:29,520 --> 00:38:31,310
over the landscapes below,
381
00:38:31,310 --> 00:38:34,010
inspiring the palettes of Paul Henry,
382
00:38:34,010 --> 00:38:36,830
and a generation of
Irish landscape painters.
383
00:38:36,830 --> 00:38:39,830
(darkly dramatic music)
384
00:39:12,810 --> 00:39:17,600
Hy-Brasil, the isles of the blessed,
385
00:39:17,600 --> 00:39:21,640
as legend has it, a mirage in the sea.
386
00:39:23,110 --> 00:39:26,000
The mysterious Aran Islands
may have inspired
387
00:39:26,000 --> 00:39:27,750
the legend of Oisin,
388
00:39:27,750 --> 00:39:30,690
the blue eyed boy of
the fianna warrior band,
389
00:39:30,690 --> 00:39:34,610
riding on a white horse
with weave of the golden tresses
390
00:39:34,610 --> 00:39:36,900
to the land of eternal youth.
391
00:39:39,930 --> 00:39:42,400
But it's hardly
the same place where seaweed
392
00:39:42,400 --> 00:39:45,510
from the shore
was once brought in baskets to create
393
00:39:45,510 --> 00:39:47,940
small fields among the barren rocks.
394
00:39:47,940 --> 00:39:50,940
(calm Irish folk music)
395
00:40:20,170 --> 00:40:24,720
Dun Aengus,
the ultimate in unassailable fortresses.
396
00:40:25,430 --> 00:40:28,340
Were the people who
barricaded themselves here
397
00:40:28,340 --> 00:40:30,540
driven to the edge of doom
398
00:40:30,540 --> 00:40:34,020
or survivors of a lost Atlantis?
399
00:40:34,780 --> 00:40:37,910
Some would have it they
and their descendants
400
00:40:37,910 --> 00:40:40,250
share in a common strand of a culture
401
00:40:40,250 --> 00:40:44,780
stretching along 1,000 miles
of the Atlantic seaboard,
402
00:40:44,780 --> 00:40:48,970
south to Spanish Galicia and North Africa.
403
00:40:49,340 --> 00:40:52,610
Certainly, the rhythms
and cadences of speech,
404
00:40:52,610 --> 00:40:55,270
and above all, the music of these parts
405
00:40:55,270 --> 00:40:57,820
have echos from far off places.
406
00:40:57,820 --> 00:41:00,820
(calm Irish folk music)
407
00:41:06,760 --> 00:41:09,760
(Irish music)
408
00:41:22,640 --> 00:41:25,640
(soft music)
409
00:41:38,240 --> 00:41:41,970
The Shannon, the longest river in Ireland,
410
00:41:41,970 --> 00:41:44,740
sweeping onward, broad and clear,
411
00:41:44,740 --> 00:41:46,980
stringing along its bright course,
412
00:41:46,980 --> 00:41:49,760
beads of lakes and rushy shallows
413
00:41:49,760 --> 00:41:53,310
where the moorhen clucks and
calls to the pleasure boats,
414
00:41:53,310 --> 00:41:55,580
cruising uncluttered waters.
415
00:41:55,580 --> 00:41:58,580
(soft music)
416
00:43:12,340 --> 00:43:13,810
Guarding the western approaches,
417
00:43:13,810 --> 00:43:15,610
from Limerick to Coonagh,
418
00:43:15,610 --> 00:43:17,870
Bunratty Castle stands four square
419
00:43:17,870 --> 00:43:19,620
by the mouth of the Shannon.
420
00:43:20,320 --> 00:43:22,600
The O'Briens, lords of Thomond,
421
00:43:22,600 --> 00:43:24,610
like other great Irish families,
422
00:43:24,610 --> 00:43:28,240
took different sides in
the political fortunes of the day.
423
00:43:28,650 --> 00:43:32,380
Maire Rua,
widowed in the wars of the 17th century,
424
00:43:32,380 --> 00:43:34,460
married an enemy soldier
425
00:43:34,460 --> 00:43:36,730
to hold their patrimony for her sons.
426
00:43:36,730 --> 00:43:39,730
(soft music)
427
00:44:23,520 --> 00:44:26,520
(Irish music)
428
00:44:35,820 --> 00:44:38,820
(peaceful music)
429
00:44:55,730 --> 00:45:00,300
The hills of Donegal,
Errigal, and the Bluestacks
430
00:45:00,300 --> 00:45:02,550
look out at the north Atlantic.
431
00:45:03,540 --> 00:45:07,860
The mountainy people looked
north and east around Inishowen,
432
00:45:07,860 --> 00:45:11,420
following the track of
Iona's Columbkille to Scotland.
433
00:45:11,890 --> 00:45:15,000
In yesteryear,
when the seasonal potato pickers,
434
00:45:15,000 --> 00:45:17,730
the tattie-hokers, were away
435
00:45:17,730 --> 00:45:20,430
there weren't enough men
for a football team.
436
00:45:21,530 --> 00:45:23,690
The harvest now is different.
437
00:45:23,690 --> 00:45:25,870
Treasure from the sea spills around
438
00:45:25,870 --> 00:45:30,130
the harbors and small towns,
from Killybegs to Burtonport.
439
00:45:30,130 --> 00:45:33,130
(peaceful music)
440
00:46:37,680 --> 00:46:40,680
(peaceful Irish folk music)
441
00:48:02,660 --> 00:48:04,560
Eerie of the golden eagle,
442
00:48:04,560 --> 00:48:06,860
Slieve League's sheer rock face,
443
00:48:06,860 --> 00:48:08,930
one of the highest in all of Europe,
444
00:48:08,930 --> 00:48:12,080
did not save the bird from
extinction in Ireland,
445
00:48:14,870 --> 00:48:18,560
but the vertical landscape here
may be the inspiration
446
00:48:18,560 --> 00:48:21,150
of a notable Donegal profession,
447
00:48:21,150 --> 00:48:23,800
expertise in digging underground.
448
00:48:24,140 --> 00:48:26,910
Wherever earth is moved the world over,
449
00:48:26,910 --> 00:48:29,240
there the spirit moves
and brings the famed
450
00:48:29,240 --> 00:48:31,690
tunnelers of Donegal.
451
00:48:31,690 --> 00:48:34,690
(peaceful Irish folk music)
452
00:49:29,600 --> 00:49:32,800
Images of the mortal boat bearing souls
453
00:49:32,800 --> 00:49:34,330
to the other world.
454
00:49:34,590 --> 00:49:37,630
In Seamus Heaney's work "Station Island",
455
00:49:37,630 --> 00:49:40,010
the phrase, "Hurry of bells"
456
00:49:40,010 --> 00:49:42,680
summons him to find himself again.
457
00:49:45,070 --> 00:49:47,730
Saint Patrick's purgatory
has been the mecca
458
00:49:47,730 --> 00:49:50,490
of the Gayle for a thousand years.
459
00:49:50,590 --> 00:49:53,760
Princes came here from
Capistrello to go through
460
00:49:53,760 --> 00:49:58,240
the inferno within,
and wrestle with Dante's demons.
461
00:49:58,790 --> 00:50:01,300
People who come to Station Island today
462
00:50:01,300 --> 00:50:03,450
face a similar ritual,
463
00:50:03,450 --> 00:50:08,670
three days of fasting,
bare feet shuffling about the rounds,
464
00:50:08,670 --> 00:50:11,460
the penance patterns of flinty stone.
465
00:50:11,720 --> 00:50:14,780
The only way out is to look within.
466
00:50:14,780 --> 00:50:17,780
(melancholy Irish folk music)
467
00:51:01,630 --> 00:51:04,490
Rats cannot survive on Tory.
468
00:51:04,660 --> 00:51:07,300
Its soil wards off misfortune.
469
00:51:07,690 --> 00:51:10,760
A solitary place, its islanders nick named
470
00:51:10,760 --> 00:51:13,620
their winter enemy, the deadly sea passage
471
00:51:13,620 --> 00:51:16,960
to the mainland, the Crucifier.
472
00:51:18,040 --> 00:51:20,490
Having made that first small journey,
473
00:51:20,490 --> 00:51:23,010
former Tory Islanders the world over
474
00:51:23,010 --> 00:51:25,850
travel with a pinch of island earth,
475
00:51:25,850 --> 00:51:31,800
a universal talisman, a corner
near the heart, forever Tory.
476
00:51:31,800 --> 00:51:34,800
(melancholy Irish folk music)
477
00:52:06,440 --> 00:52:09,440
(calm piano music)
478
00:52:46,700 --> 00:52:49,320
A prime pastoral expanse,
479
00:52:49,320 --> 00:52:51,550
the north has been a place of settlement
480
00:52:51,550 --> 00:52:54,850
long before the vikings
sailed up Strangford Lough.
481
00:52:55,360 --> 00:52:58,950
Ancient shore dwellers have left
their heaps of shells,
482
00:52:58,950 --> 00:53:01,550
a precarious hold on a new shore.
483
00:53:01,820 --> 00:53:04,220
The traffic here has been back and forth,
484
00:53:04,220 --> 00:53:05,990
both east and west.
485
00:53:05,990 --> 00:53:07,940
The Scottish kings extending their rule
486
00:53:07,940 --> 00:53:11,510
across the narrow seas,
a mixing of peoples,
487
00:53:11,510 --> 00:53:15,120
sometimes easy, not always so.
488
00:53:15,650 --> 00:53:17,820
The men and women from
the Scottish borders
489
00:53:17,820 --> 00:53:20,590
came into Carrickfergus and other ports,
490
00:53:20,590 --> 00:53:22,860
and often took their tough resourcefulness
491
00:53:22,860 --> 00:53:24,900
onwards to the new world.
492
00:53:25,240 --> 00:53:27,290
A long line of American presidents
493
00:53:27,290 --> 00:53:29,370
is a roll call of honor of the
494
00:53:29,370 --> 00:53:31,630
qualities of the Ulster Scot.
495
00:53:31,630 --> 00:53:34,630
(peaceful piano music)
496
00:53:43,600 --> 00:53:46,600
(calm Irish folk music)
497
00:54:16,680 --> 00:54:18,970
The bleaching greens of the Lagan Valley
498
00:54:18,970 --> 00:54:20,540
supply the mills,
499
00:54:20,540 --> 00:54:23,260
and Belfast linen and Belfast ships
500
00:54:23,260 --> 00:54:26,370
spread a byword for
excellence around the world,
501
00:54:26,370 --> 00:54:30,140
records of the industry of
the 17th century settlers.
502
00:54:30,140 --> 00:54:33,140
(calm Irish folk music)
503
00:54:37,360 --> 00:54:42,420
Derry, Londonderry, Derry of Columbkille,
504
00:54:42,420 --> 00:54:46,010
and the London Gills
have looked both ways.
505
00:54:46,240 --> 00:54:50,060
Taking northern poet
John Hewitt's advice in style,
506
00:54:50,060 --> 00:54:51,610
be your own man.
507
00:54:53,700 --> 00:54:57,230
Very much his own man was
the eccentric Earl Bishop
508
00:54:57,230 --> 00:54:59,700
who built this palace, and a lady's bower
509
00:54:59,700 --> 00:55:01,640
above the crashing seas.
510
00:55:01,640 --> 00:55:04,640
(calm Irish folk music)
511
00:55:15,530 --> 00:55:17,830
The bones of Dunluce Castle
512
00:55:17,830 --> 00:55:20,430
are a proper setting
for the daring exploits
513
00:55:20,430 --> 00:55:24,420
of famous chiefton Sorley Boy MacDonnell,
514
00:55:24,420 --> 00:55:27,770
whose history straddles
the narrow seas to Scotland,
515
00:55:27,770 --> 00:55:29,790
and all of Ulster's history.
516
00:55:29,790 --> 00:55:32,790
(calm Irish folk music)
517
00:55:47,070 --> 00:55:51,740
♫ Should you wander far away
518
00:55:51,740 --> 00:55:57,780
♫ Should you set your heart a sail ♫
519
00:55:57,780 --> 00:55:59,820
When you look upon Ireland
520
00:55:59,820 --> 00:56:01,240
what do you see?
521
00:56:01,860 --> 00:56:06,230
One writer saw people made
out of the wet, limey soil,
522
00:56:06,230 --> 00:56:10,780
others saw dreamers and
mystics, warriors and chiefs,
523
00:56:10,780 --> 00:56:14,140
where a cure Celtic streak
shaped and fashioned
524
00:56:14,140 --> 00:56:16,120
by the place they came from.
525
00:56:16,720 --> 00:56:20,940
Heaney sees its writers and
artists, who in his words,
526
00:56:20,940 --> 00:56:23,110
"Capture the impulse of pleasure
527
00:56:23,110 --> 00:56:25,760
"in the presence of natural phenomena."
528
00:56:27,430 --> 00:56:29,560
The land continues to leave its mark
529
00:56:29,560 --> 00:56:31,340
on Ireland's people,
530
00:56:31,340 --> 00:56:34,600
and they carry that gift wherever they go.
531
00:56:35,130 --> 00:56:38,940
Perhaps the sentiment is better stated
in this Irish poem,
532
00:56:40,510 --> 00:56:43,510
"And dearer the wind and its crying
533
00:56:43,510 --> 00:56:46,420
"are the secrets the wet hills hold.
534
00:56:46,840 --> 00:56:50,130
"And the goldenest place
they could find you
535
00:56:50,130 --> 00:56:53,550
"in the heart of a country of gold."
536
00:56:54,480 --> 00:56:58,500
♫ Dreams grow cold
537
00:56:58,500 --> 00:57:03,120
♫ But our love is strong as death
538
00:57:03,120 --> 00:57:06,780
♫ I will give my dying breath
539
00:57:06,780 --> 00:57:10,030
♫ You know I will
540
00:57:12,660 --> 00:57:17,340
♫ Should you wander with the tide
541
00:57:17,340 --> 00:57:22,540
♫ You will find me by your side
542
00:57:22,540 --> 00:57:26,600
♫ We are two swans taking flight
543
00:57:26,600 --> 00:57:29,450
♫ Will I follow you
544
00:57:29,450 --> 00:57:36,030
♫ You know I will
545
00:57:37,030 --> 00:57:41,120
♫ Your heart is at home
546
00:57:41,120 --> 00:57:45,670
♫ When you're with the one you know
547
00:57:45,670 --> 00:57:49,810
♫ And our love will brave the storm
548
00:57:49,810 --> 00:57:53,000
♫ You know it will
549
00:57:55,680 --> 00:58:00,160
♫ And dreams grow cold
550
00:58:00,160 --> 00:58:04,740
♫ But our love is strong as death
551
00:58:04,740 --> 00:58:08,960
♫ I will give my dying breath
552
00:58:08,960 --> 00:58:12,260
♫ You know I will
553
00:58:14,660 --> 00:58:17,120
♫ Will I follow you
554
00:58:17,120 --> 00:58:24,640
♫ You know I will ♫
555
00:58:28,640 --> 00:58:31,640
(lively Irish folk music)
39681
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