All language subtitles for Travel.Quest.With.Bill.Ball.S01E09.CONVERT.1080p.HDTV.H264-CBFM

BILL: This week I have a very special
quest that is dear to my heart.

I am going to follow in the footsteps

of one of my childhood heroes

and venture into the wilderness

and experience the wildlife
as she did over 25 years ago.

That childhood hero? Dian Fossey,
the legendary gorilla researcher.

I had the opportunity
to track gorillas once before,

and of all the wildlife encounters
I have had,

it stands out as one of the best
moments of my life.

Now I have an opportunity to see
the gorillas that are descendants

of Fossey's study groups.

To top it off, I will also undertake
the arduous trek to her base camp

located high in the mountains.

So join me today
as I unravel the mysteries,

reveal the gentle creatures
behind the beast

and take the gorillas
out of the mist.

Since I was young,

I had an intense desire
to discover the world around me.

That hasn't changed,
just the level of adventure.

Now every journey has a purpose

and each time I venture out

to explore new destinations
around the globe,

I am following my travel quest.

Mountain gorillas are restricted
to a narrow band of mountains

and highland forest

found in three
small east-central African nations,

Uganda, the Democratic Republic
of Congo, and Rwanda.

The total wild population of this
very special gorilla species

is just under a thousand.

There are no mountain gorillas
in captivity so the only place

to see them is here in the wild.

My gorilla trek will take place
in Rwanda in the same area that

famed wildlife researcher
and gorilla champion

Dian Fossey lived and sadly died.

It was her life's work and subsequent
movie starring Sigourney Weaver

that helped popularize
this eco destination.

Today, the throngs of gorilla seekers

are a great protection for these
animals that Dian so loved

because the visitors have made
gorillas a vital part

of Rwanda and Uganda's economy.

It is not easy getting to the base
of the mountains
where the gorillas live.

That break from civilisation
is probably why

this sanctuary
survives hunters and poachers.

The mountain gorilla is extinct
from much of its former range.

Here, though,
their numbers are on the rise.

I was told that a new animal park,
Akagera, was being developed

and improved for tourism in Rwanda.

Prior to this wildlife sanctuary,

almost everyone came to see
the gorillas and then left.

It limited the tourism income.

This park would entice people
to stay longer,

maybe finally making Rwanda

a vacation destination
in its own right.

At first glance, Akagera National
Park may seem like a new jewel

being born out of the wilderness.

It has a brand-new luxury lodge.

It's got lions just recently
introduced,

and it has huge hoof stock numbers.

But before 1994, this was
one of Africa's premier parks.

It's now in the process
of being reborn.

Akagera National Park
was actually founded in 1934

and covers nearly 300,000 acres.

Normally an 80-year-old
wildlife sanctuary like this one

would have a full complement
of local species,

but in 1994, a human tragedy
played a role here too.

That year,
the predominant ethnic group

began a systematic genocide
of the minority.

It ended a hundred days later
by military force.

In its aftermath, refugees took up
residence in the park and killed

the wildlife for food and security.

After the country finally stabilised,
the park had to start over.

Lions, for instance, were imported
from South Africa in 2015

and rhinos in 2017.

Now Akagera is a premier
wildlife sanctuary once again.

During our several days there,
the only other vehicle I saw

was the lion researcher's jeep.

We were fortunate enough to see one
of the introduced females on a kill!

I have seen many lions on safari,

but this was one of the most
satisfying,

since it shows that she's adjusted
to the park

and lion territory is expanding
in Africa, instead of contracting.

One of the animals they did not have
to reintroduce is the hippo,

whose population here is stable.

Hippos are the third biggest animal
in Africa

after the elephant
and the white rhino.

Their name is derived from the Greek
for 'river horse'.

They do indeed spend much
of their time in the water,

coming out at night to graze.

Males claim territories
within the waterways

and will fight
for their piece of river.

Surprisingly, more people are killed
by hippos than any other animal

because of their
aggressive behaviour.

The waterways are host
to several species

to check off your animal list,

like the very large water
monitor lizard

or the impressive giant heron,

appropriately called
the Goliath heron.

The bird life is particularly
impressive,

from the African fish eagles

to the beautiful
saddle-billed storks.

Big 12 members
seem to almost come out on cue.

First we see zebras.

These members of the equine,
or horse, family are uniquely striped

so no two look alike.

And in quick succession,
another Big 12er,

and one you do not expect to see
in the daytime,

a hyena.

This was turning into a good safari.

I had my doubts given the bleak
history of the park,

but happily I was proven wrong.

To my surprise and joy, we saw
yet another 12er, the giraffe.

Giraffe numbers are becoming critical
as they are shrinking

and disappearing
in many parks in Africa.

This is not one of those
wilderness areas.

Giraffes are doing well here.

Like zebra stripes, giraffe spots
are unique to each animal.

There was yet another
of my safari 12 - buffalo.

These are some of the most feared
by game hunters

because when wounded,
instead of fleeing, they charge.

Our day had been a great one
with sightings of many

of the Big 12 animals.

Even the antelope species
were unusual.

Here is one of the few places
that the beautiful Roan antelope

are readily seen.

But one species that I was assured
we'd encounter eluded us -

the elephant.

Isaac, our local guide,
told us that a remnant population

had survived the 1990s breakdown
of the park.

But in all of our searching,
we had no evidence of even one.

With our safari time
drawing to a close,

it appeared
this would be one species we'd miss.

Then, just two miles from camp,
we heard a loud crash.

Whatever caused it
was right in front of our Jeep.

It was an elephant, a huge male.

Maybe not the best side of it,

but there it was,
walking down the road.

Now, that is the way to end a day.

I'd almost forgotten one of my key
safari rules -

never give up looking
until you're back in camp.

Of course, you don't
have to look too hard for an elephant

that's right in front of you.

As we finally pulled into the lodge,

the elephant roadblock slowed us
way down, but no complaints here,

I was pleasantly surprised
at the modern tourist camp.

When the park was rebuilt,

great emphasis was placed
on the accommodations.

Ruzizi Tented Camp
is one of the nicest,

most comfortable I've stayed at.

And for those of you
that can't fathom camping,

this is not really camping.

You do have canvas walls,
but inside are queen beds,

private baths
with hot and cold running water,

and 24-hour electricity!

Not really roughing it
by anyone's definition.

My safari experience in Rwanda
up to this point

was not unlike
an east or southern Africa one.

What makes Rwanda special
is its primates,

and the next national park, Virunga,
is where they take centre stage

with the biggest of them all -
gorillas.

Our home base
for the next three nights

is Mountain Gorilla View Lodge,

just a short drive
from the park's headquarters,

where you are assigned your guide,
porters and gorilla troops.

The lodge is one of a handful
of Western-level accommodations

near the park.

The rooms are not fancy, but nice,

with all the basics one would expect,
including meals.

(SINGING IN NATIVE LANGUAGE)

Each evening the locals
put on a song and dance show

to welcome new guests.

The fun atmosphere and the talented
performers made it so inviting

that I, and many of my friends,
went every evening.

(APPLAUSE)

The key reason, though,
everyone is here is to see gorillas.

Only so many permits
are given out a day,

allowing visitors the opportunity
to visit these magnificent animals.

Virtually all those
for the shoulder and high seasons

are sold out months ahead of time.

Our operator, Far Horizons, got ours,

allowing us to concentrate on why we
were here and not on the logistics.

I never schedule the main event
of a trip on the first day.

That is just too risky.

Travel plans can be disrupted

and having a day to spare
could make all the difference

if there was unforeseen delays.

You don't want to miss
your gorilla permit day.

On the other hand,
I don't want to waste a day.

I had secured, through our operator,

the right to see
the endemic golden monkeys.

'Endemic' is just a fancy word
for found here and nowhere else.

No-one can enter the park
without a specially trained ranger.

I had never seen the golden monkey
so I had no idea what I was in for,

which is half the fun.

A great above expectations surprise

is worth more
than I could ever describe.

We had hiked about a half hour
and the ranger stopped us.

The monkeys were just ahead.

Final instructions on how to behave
were given

and we entered the golden monkey's
feeding grounds.

We were told the golden monkeys
eat bamboo

which grows at the base
of the mountains,

so our hike was moderate to easy

compared to the one
that we would do tomorrow

to reach the higher elevation-loving
gorillas.

In the morning, the monkeys
are often found in the bamboo patches

before taking off
in search of other foods.

There is little known
about these primates,

except that they are opportunistic
eaters

that feast on seasonal fruits,
invertebrates and, of course, bamboo,

which is their major diet
because it's available year round.

Listed as endangered,
this rare monkey faces deforestation

and a very limited habitat
as its major threats.

Of course, the war did not help
the population.

This troop,
numbering 30 to 40 individuals,

is attenuated to visitors,

so they go about their daily routine

without even noticing
the camera-toting tourists.

This group's numbers
are fairly typical.

The average size is 30 individuals
with some troops exceeding 60.

Those found in higher elevations

tend to be on the smaller side
of the scale

due to food availability.

Despite science knowing
little about their behaviour,

they are simply fun to watch.

They are photogenic

and have an incredible charisma
that lures you into their world.

No-one comes to Virunga
to see the golden monkeys.

Most tourists don't even know
they exist until they get here,

but they ended up being
a highlight of the trip.

The ranger explained to me
that these cute cousins of ours

will nest tonight in the tops
of the bamboo near here,

weaving the branches together
to make their beds.

The scouts can always find this group
in the morning

for us would-be trekkers by watching
where the nesting takes place.

It was hard to leave them,

but time limits with the animals
is strictly adhered to

for the health
of these forest inhabitants.

Too much or too close of contact

can spread diseases
from humans to primates.

That is particularly relevant
to the gorillas.

One of my favourite things to do
when traveling

is to look for work
from skilled local craftsmen.

Here, the art has a special purpose

that goes beyond
being just souvenirs.

One cannot discuss nor visit Rwanda

without mentioning the horrors
that happened in 1994.

The movie Hotel Rwanda

gave us a glimpse
into the shocking time in history.

The country was thrown
into civil war

and genocide resulted
in thousands of deaths.

The healing process has been slow,

but the country has focused
on the future

without forgetting
to never repeat it.

The sad history of Rwanda
and the 1994 genocide

did not stop the artisans.

In fact, the art
has helped heal the nation.

That quality work has helped many
to re-establish themselves

spiritually and financially.

As we get back to the lodge,

watch the dancing performance
and get ready for bed,

it is hard to sleep.

Tomorrow is the day we have been
planning for for over a year.

Tomorrow is the day of the gorilla.

Everything has led up to this point.

Travel, lodge, golden monkeys -
all a prelude to the big show,

the prime event, the granddaddy
of animal adventures...

Well, you get the gist.

Once you get your gorilla group
assigned,

you have to drive
to the hike starting point.

This can take quite a while since
the groups are spread throughout

this vast park.

The night before, a special crew
tracks the gorillas' movement

so little time is spent
searching for them.

However, the walk
to your assigned group

can take up to three strenuous hours

depending on the elevation,
difficulty of the terrain

and, of course, the weather.

Once we reach the gorillas,

we are told to leave everything
but cameras behind.

We walked a couple more minutes
and then...wow!

There they were,
right in front of us.

It was breathtaking.

There is no wildlife experience
like it.

You are 20 feet or so from these
intimidating, massive animals

and, quite honestly, they regularly
break the distance barrier,

which is both frightening
and exhilarating.

There are about 10 gorilla groups
that can be visited.

Not all are available each day.

The park gives one or two families
a day off.

I guess the gorilla union
has work rules.

And talking about rules,
there are a few important ones.

Don't go if you have a cold
or are sick.

It could be fatal to gorillas.

Always obey your ranger's command -
no exceptions.

And lastly, you get one hour alone
with these majestic animals,

not a minute more.

That final rule,
though hard to accept, is necessary

for the health and wellbeing
of our close cousins.

They can contract
most human diseases,

but have no immunity to any of them.

That seems particularly harsh when
you want that last perfect picture,

especially since the trek to the
gorillas is often long and hard.

But it is necessary
to allow the program to continue.

By making money from the gorillas,
the locals value and protect them.

Do not underestimate your role
in conservation by just being there.

Ecotourism and the money it brings in

makes protection of this whole
environment a national priority.

Gorillas are,
overall, gentle creatures,

completely herbivores,
unlike chimps and us humans,

who have a taste for meat.

But occasionally there are dominant
scrapes within the troop,

but that doesn't spill out
to us observers.

As a whole,
this is a spiritual experience,

where we, for a brief moment in time,

can peek into the lives
of these amazing animals.

Gorillas are not monkeys.

Monkeys have tails
and smaller brains,

while apes, like chimpanzees,
gibbons and orangutans,

do not have tails.

Weighing 300 to 500 pounds and
reaching five-plus-feet in height,

gorillas are imposing.

They are six times stronger
than a human!

In this habitat
they have few predator problems.

This is not lion territory,
so that leaves only leopards,

and then only to the youngsters

who are usually too well protected
by the troop

to be in any real danger.

Their biggest threat is not natural,
it's man,

both as poacher
and by destroying their habitat.

The only natural enemy,
other than disease and age,

is another gorilla.

Watching the interactions
within this family group

was a remarkable experience.

You always learn
something about yourself

in the extraordinary situations,

and this was no exception.

Here you can appreciate the ebb and
flow of family life and relationships

that may not be far different
from our own.

Being in Virunga National Park
has special significance for me.

This is where the great researcher
Dian Fossey lived,

worked and died.

The gorillas we saw were descendants
of the troops she studied.

I grew up reading about her work

and after seeing the movie
Gorillas In The Mist, I was hooked.

Now I have the opportunity to see
her actual camp and grave site.

This was my quest.

Of course,
she studied mountain gorillas,

so the trek to her camp
would be uphill.

I had just been climbing
for two days -

first, the shorter distance
to the golden monkeys

and then the big hike
to the gorillas.

But this hike, I was told,
would be the hardest of all.

It was high in the mountains

and it was through the wettest part
of the forest.

In fact, in another week,

that trail would be closed
for the season

because it would be impassable.

We soon learned the harsh truth
of that warning

and faced a trail
whose mud would come up to our knees,

and the higher we climbed,
it only got worse!

The muddy trail would literally
pull the boots off our feet

and even pulled the sole of my boot
apart.

But, luckily,
we were just yards from the camp.

A few ruined structures
are still standing.

No maintenance or preservation
is done

to counter the heavy rains
and the regrowth of the forest.

Dian Fossey died in 1985 and
the camp was abandoned soon after.

It doesn't take long
before nature reclaims this land.

For nearly 20 years,

Dian walked, ate, slept
and lived with the gorillas

that would become
her de facto family.

She had her favourites,

some of which would meet tragic ends
at the hands of hunters.

One of those was Digit,

who sacrificed himself fighting off
poachers so his troop could escape.

Digit is buried next to Dian.

At the far end of the camp

is the graveyard
Dian created for her gorilla family.

She was also laid to rest here
after her death.

Her murder
is still shrouded in mystery.

Two men have been convicted
in absentia of the murder,

but most people are not convinced

that those were indeed
the perpetrators.

She had made many enemies with
her fierce defence of the gorillas,

so fingers are pointed at poachers,

government officials
and her own staff and interns.

We may never know
what really happened,

but her legacy lives on
with the establishment of the park

and its program of gorilla habitation
that aids in their conservation.

Hiking up to Dian Fossey's grave
is sort of a pilgrimage for me,

though a hard one.

When I was young,
I'd read every article she wrote,

watched every television special

about her work
with the mountain gorillas.

This was my chance to come up here
and see where the research was done

and where all of her work
was accomplished.

Unfortunately, this is also where
she was murdered and now buried.

No matter how many times
I see wild gorillas,

I can't help but feel
a special spiritual bond.

To think that they were almost
wiped out just a few decades back,

though not out of danger,
their numbers are recovering

and the locals now regard them

as an important part
of their own culture and heritage.

Though no-one knows for sure

how Dian Fossey would regard
the ecotourism that has developed,

I know she would be relieved

that the protection for her charges
is seeing success

and the mountain gorillas of Virunga
have a bright future.

Captions by Red Bee Media
(c) SBS Australia 2023