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All over the world,
there are remarkable hotels
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born of bold vision and daring endeavor.
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Oh, my goodness, look at that.
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Whether it's an epic structure
housing a sky park
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the length of the Eiffel tower…
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This is definitely the biggest space
I've ever been inside.
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…or a glass box perched
in the cloud forest.
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-Look at that view!
-Wow.
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They're all products of innovation,
creativity and hard graft.
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The people running these hotels
strive to create the perfect sanctuary.
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But what does it take to offer
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once-in-a-lifetime experiences
in stunning locations?
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To build a hotel in a place like this,
everybody thinks I'm crazy.
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In total, we have about
160,000 pieces of uniform.
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00:01:01,680 --> 00:01:03,000
Oh, my word!
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I'm a restaurant writer,
newspaper columnist and critic.
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I have opinions on just about everything.
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What a mad place to build a hotel.
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I feel like Scott of the Antarctic
and it did not end well for him.
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And I'm a chef who's worked
for the top end
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of the hospitality industry
for, well, over 20 years.
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How many opportunities do you get to cook
breakfast with elephants and giraffes?
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We'll travel to amazing hotels
in every corner of the world.
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To spend time getting to know the people
working away behind the scenes.
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When did you last have
a full night's sleep?
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I don't remember.
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-Really?
-Yes.
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-Hooray!
-Yes!
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You're the engineer,
you're like Scotty in Star Trek.
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Precisely, I've been called that.
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Join us as we venture inside…
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The world's most extraordinary hotels.
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We're in Kenya.
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The country's beautiful savannahs
and thousands of exotic animal species
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draw visitors from around the world
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with the promise
of awesome wildlife encounters.
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Yet arriving at this hotel
on the outskirts
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of the capital Nairobi
it's easy to forget that we're in Africa
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as this feels more like a grand suburban
house in the English home counties.
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It's very nice.
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But here,
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nothing is quite as it seems
as we're about to find out.
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It's dawn, the guests are still asleep,
but downstairs we're hard at work
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because something extraordinary
is about to take place.
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Does the spoon just go on the side?
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You'd think I'd never laid a table before,
wouldn't you?
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I mean this is like a breakfast at home
for me,
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because basically my son
doesn't eat breakfast,
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00:03:01,160 --> 00:03:05,320
'cause he doesn't want to
and my daughter has it in front of the TV
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00:03:05,400 --> 00:03:07,640
even though she's not allowed to
and my wife would still be asleep.
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00:03:07,720 --> 00:03:11,960
So laying a table for people that are
actually going to eat is quite weird.
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Breakfast preparation starts
painfully early here
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as guests arrive
to eat before first light.
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I'm with duty manager, Tony Levy.
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So how many people have you got
staying at the moment?
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We have about 22 guests tonight.
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Twenty two?
And are they all having breakfast?
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Yeah, they're all having breakfast
'till they get cracking.
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-You want them quite fine?
-Yeah.
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-Skins on?
-Finely chopped yeah. Skin on.
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Okay.
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I'm helping head chef, David Kisevu.
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He's been preparing highly anticipated
breakfasts here for seven years.
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Mornings are always busy.
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Here we do our breakfast
according to the wakeup call.
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By 6:30, everything should be ready.
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00:04:03,120 --> 00:04:05,720
One of the dishes on offer catches my eye.
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00:04:05,800 --> 00:04:09,040
And what is this very large muesli?
Are they tasty these things?
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It's pellet made out of molasses.
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-Oh, with some grit in it.
-Yes.
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Oh, quite a lot of grit in it.
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-So, why do the guests get up so early?
-They will miss the special opportunity.
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People travel the globe for breakfast
at the manor.
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To share their first meal of the day
with some extra special guests.
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-Hello?
-We have Stacey here.
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Stacey? Hello, Stacey.
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I've never done anything like this.
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Amazing, I mean she's massive.
The size of her head it's just…
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-So how many giraffes can you fit in here?
-About six at a time.
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Six?
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Here at the apply named Giraffe Manor
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you share your morning coffee and eggs
with the world's tallest animals.
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And if you want breakfast in bed,
you can share it with a giraffe
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from the comfort of your first floor room.
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Breakfast is quite a boring meal, isn't
it?
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I think it ought to be
always ought to be served with a giraffe.
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Giraffe Manor has over
7,000 guests a year,
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prepared to spend between 500
and 1,000 pounds a night.
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Several rooms are named after giraffes.
And with only ten rooms,
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guests often have to book a year
in advance to stay here.
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The Manor serves up old school nostalgia
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in the form of classic cucumber sandwiches
and cream teas.
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00:06:00,680 --> 00:06:03,960
But it's the hotel's unusual neighbors
that lure guests here.
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We've been to every other continent
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00:06:08,360 --> 00:06:11,120
and I've never experienced
anything quite like this.
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00:06:13,560 --> 00:06:16,920
-You're obsessed, aren't ya?
-Yeah I am a bit obsessed with giraffes,
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it's just perfect. Absolutely perfect.
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The experience of having a giraffe
walking towards your bedroom window
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in the early hours of the morning
as the sun is just starting to rise
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is a very surreal dream moment.
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Wonderful, absolutely amazing.
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To have them lower their heads
and look in your eyes,
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you just feel a connection with them.
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Giraffe Manor occupies 13 acres
of a natural enclave,
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surrounded by the expanding city
of Nairobi.
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The Manor is owned by Tanya Carheartly,
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a fourth generation Kenyan
who has lived locally all her life.
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00:07:00,960 --> 00:07:03,120
When my mom and dad moved here,
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00:07:03,200 --> 00:07:07,800
46 years ago,
it was really out of the way neighborhood.
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And at that point there was
no tarmac roads, no fences.
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Actually, when we were children, my sister
and I would ride to the Manor with my mom.
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00:07:22,400 --> 00:07:24,960
Giraffe Manor is very much
a family affair,
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run by Tanya and her husband Mikey.
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He's also a fourth generation Kenyan,
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whose family have been involved
with wildlife for generations,
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running safaris.
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So can we arrange to get one from Abatulah
and bring it to the Manor?
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00:07:43,120 --> 00:07:45,960
Tanya and Mikey bought Giraffe Manor
in 2009
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and have strived to establish it as one
of the most unusual holiday destinations
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in the world.
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Mike and Tanya, I think,
they work super hard.
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They're just at it, seven days a week,
five hours sleep a night,
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just never giving up.
I think that's a driving factor.
124
00:08:03,760 --> 00:08:08,160
So what exactly is it like to run
a hotel surrounded by wild giraffes?
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-Hi.
-This is Tanya.
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00:08:11,600 --> 00:08:13,720
-Hello.
-Hi, Tanya.
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00:08:13,800 --> 00:08:16,160
-Lovely to meet you.
-Lovely to meet you, too.
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00:08:17,120 --> 00:08:18,120
How's your morning?
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00:08:18,200 --> 00:08:19,720
-Amazing.
-Early.
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00:08:19,800 --> 00:08:23,240
Early but worth it.
A surreal experience too.
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-It is.
-Even for you? You're not.
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Even on a regular basis.
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Why do people care so much about giraffes?
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00:08:28,400 --> 00:08:31,600
I guess its gracefulness,
the big eyes, big eyelashes,
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giraffes are just unique animals, really.
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00:08:34,760 --> 00:08:36,919
I mean is it easy to run a giraffe hotel?
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No, it's not easy.
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The biggest downside
is people understanding
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that the giraffes are still wild animals
which means the safety of people is key.
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When you say that the dangers of
wild animals, like what?
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So, a giraffe can obviously kick
very hard,
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and kill a lion in fact you know,
that kind of kick.
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And they head-butt a lot, we have to
sort of manage people's expectations
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00:09:00,840 --> 00:09:04,440
where they you know,
the animal puts its neck through here
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and they feel like it's their best friend
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00:09:06,600 --> 00:09:09,880
but in the same instant
that same animal can do an injury.
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I'm sorry that's it,
I haven't got any more.
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It seems giraffe aren't
the only wild animal
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wandering through the grounds
on the scrounge for tip bits.
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It's a warthoglet or a warthog piglet.
So sweet.
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00:09:32,680 --> 00:09:35,640
It's quite strange having pigs
in a hotel of this kind.
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I think it's brilliant being so close
to these animals,
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my children would go mad, it's just,
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properly the lion king
although luckily without lions.
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The ten giraffe here
are all Rothschild giraffes.
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They're named after
Lord Walter Rothschild,
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a zoologist and member
of the famous banking family.
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He first came across them
in the early 1900s
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when they could be found in abundance
across Kenya, Uganda and Sudan.
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But by the 1970s, they were under threat.
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The Rothschild giraffe at that time
was rapidly diminishing,
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there were only 17 or so left.
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00:10:13,160 --> 00:10:15,360
-Why were they diminishing?
-Couple of reasons,
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one being that their habitat
was being cut up into smaller plots,
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and also in Uganda,
where there was actually more of them,
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they were used as target practice
by Idi Amin
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so the '70s was a very trying time
for them.
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It was at this point that a couple
called Jock and Betty Leslie-Melville
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bought the Manor.
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They were delighted to find
three wild Masai giraffe
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on the grounds
that slept on the lawn at night.
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And when they heard that endangered
Rothschild giraffe
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were living on local land
due to be redeveloped,
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Jock and Betty adopted one of the babies
called Daisy,
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and later bought in another,
called Marlon.
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So that's the Leslie-Melville's,
Betty and Jock.
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00:11:02,480 --> 00:11:05,640
I love that one with Betty
with her dog and the giraffe.
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00:11:05,720 --> 00:11:08,240
So was she a conservationist?
Was she into giraffe's?
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00:11:08,320 --> 00:11:09,920
She became very into giraffes.
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00:11:11,360 --> 00:11:14,080
In response to the dramatic decline
in giraffe numbers,
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the Leslie-Melville's started a sanctuary
and a breeding program.
182
00:11:18,840 --> 00:11:20,880
And so how many did
they start off with here?
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00:11:20,960 --> 00:11:22,320
Just two.
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00:11:22,400 --> 00:11:24,360
So the descendants
of the original giraffe,
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are they still here?
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00:11:25,520 --> 00:11:28,200
Most of them are still here,
some of them are still here.
187
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Forty years on,
the giraffe center next door
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started by Betty and Jock
is still going strong.
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And has released 15 of these rare
and endangered giraffe into the wild.
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I'm really looking forward
to finding out a bit more
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about how Giraffe Manor is being managed,
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and how the whole team work
together to make this happen.
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00:11:54,880 --> 00:11:57,320
Giraffe Manor employs over 65 people.
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00:11:57,400 --> 00:12:00,280
Three for every guest
to serve their every whim.
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00:12:01,720 --> 00:12:05,520
Five chefs, five porters,
11 waiters, four drivers,
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00:12:05,600 --> 00:12:07,960
and four gardeners, it's a tight team.
197
00:12:08,960 --> 00:12:13,640
And Duty Manager, Tony Levey,
has the job of keeping everyone on track,
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00:12:13,720 --> 00:12:16,720
whether staff, guests or giraffe.
199
00:12:16,800 --> 00:12:18,960
So the biggest challenge
I face as Duty Manager
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is probably guest expectations.
201
00:12:21,120 --> 00:12:24,400
You don't realize we have 140 acres here
with ten giraffe on site,
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00:12:24,480 --> 00:12:27,320
I have to manage unpredictable
giraffe movements
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00:12:27,400 --> 00:12:29,400
in the sense that the giraffe
refuse to show up.
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00:12:31,600 --> 00:12:32,880
This way, please, after you.
205
00:12:33,800 --> 00:12:37,440
I have to manage the guests
between check out and check in time,
206
00:12:37,520 --> 00:12:39,880
try and get rooms ready
just constantly moving.
207
00:12:39,960 --> 00:12:41,240
This way, please.
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00:12:42,040 --> 00:12:44,240
It's 8:00 a.m. and Laura and Emmanuel
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are arriving on the first day
of their honeymoon.
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00:12:49,080 --> 00:12:51,720
We spent probably twice as much
on the honeymoon
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as we did on the actual wedding.
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And to know that tomorrow morning
we can wake up
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and be feeding a giraffe
out of the bedroom window is really cool.
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00:13:02,040 --> 00:13:05,440
I'm going to feel like I haven't woken up,
it's going to feel like a dream.
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00:13:05,960 --> 00:13:08,600
Despite the charms of the giraffe,
Laura and Emmanuel
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00:13:08,680 --> 00:13:13,080
are only staying here for one night.
Like most guests, they're using the Manor
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00:13:13,160 --> 00:13:16,480
as a staging post on their way
to other parts of Kenya.
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00:13:18,080 --> 00:13:22,480
This means the Manor's nine housekeepers
face a pressurized change over rooms
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00:13:22,560 --> 00:13:23,640
every 24 hours.
220
00:13:26,280 --> 00:13:29,320
I'm joining head housekeeper, Pamela,
on her morning rounds.
221
00:13:30,160 --> 00:13:33,240
She and her team usually have
between 45 minutes
222
00:13:33,320 --> 00:13:35,920
and an hour to turn over all ten rooms.
223
00:13:38,200 --> 00:13:40,760
Pamela is one of the longest
serving members of staff.
224
00:13:40,840 --> 00:13:45,040
At 64, she's been making beds here
for the last 17 years.
225
00:13:46,800 --> 00:13:49,120
I love the feel of clean sheets.
226
00:13:50,920 --> 00:13:53,200
Aside from the mess caused by guests,
227
00:13:53,280 --> 00:13:55,560
Pamela has to deal
with long necked intruders.
228
00:13:56,160 --> 00:13:59,840
-Does this stay down here?
-Got to put it on here.
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00:13:59,920 --> 00:14:01,920
Do they just come and stick
their heads in?
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00:14:02,000 --> 00:14:04,720
Yeah. No, when we shake the bucket,
231
00:14:04,800 --> 00:14:08,520
the giraffes will come
and then you'll take one by one giving it.
232
00:14:08,600 --> 00:14:10,360
Do they make a mess for you when you--
233
00:14:10,440 --> 00:14:13,160
Yeah when there's nobody around
and the window is open
234
00:14:13,240 --> 00:14:17,320
if they come near here
they'll push the bucket and then down.
235
00:14:19,480 --> 00:14:21,520
Give you a bit of a headache, yeah.
236
00:14:21,600 --> 00:14:24,840
Do you have a certain time
when you have to have it all finished?
237
00:14:24,920 --> 00:14:30,080
-By 12. They'll be checking in at 13.
-At one o'clock. Okay.
238
00:14:30,160 --> 00:14:31,040
Yes, please.
239
00:14:31,120 --> 00:14:33,840
If you can show me a quicker way,
I'll show you my way.
240
00:14:33,920 --> 00:14:36,960
-Fine.
-That's got to be a simpler way to…
241
00:14:39,880 --> 00:14:41,960
It's like a Zumba class.
242
00:14:45,360 --> 00:14:46,680
Look how strong you are.
243
00:14:47,280 --> 00:14:50,240
As a single mother, Giraffe Manor
has had a big impact
244
00:14:50,320 --> 00:14:51,880
on Pamela's family life.
245
00:14:51,960 --> 00:14:53,560
One of her children works here too.
246
00:14:54,040 --> 00:14:59,920
Working at Giraffe Manor, I have used
my money in bringing up my children,
247
00:15:00,440 --> 00:15:06,480
paying their education for high school
for four of them and in college.
248
00:15:06,560 --> 00:15:08,920
Do you have enough to cover the mattress?
249
00:15:09,000 --> 00:15:13,040
At the moment, I'm now saving
for a piece of small land
250
00:15:13,120 --> 00:15:15,240
then I build them a house.
251
00:15:15,320 --> 00:15:17,080
Happy to call my home.
252
00:15:18,720 --> 00:15:20,240
That looks pretty good to me.
253
00:15:22,200 --> 00:15:23,320
I'd sleep in that.
254
00:15:24,200 --> 00:15:26,440
One of the oldest buildings
in suburban Nairobi,
255
00:15:26,520 --> 00:15:29,000
Giraffe Manor was built in 1932
256
00:15:29,600 --> 00:15:32,040
when Kenya was still a colony
of the British Empire.
257
00:15:32,120 --> 00:15:35,080
The most surprising thing
is how suburban it feels,
258
00:15:35,160 --> 00:15:36,880
you sort of prepare for something wild
259
00:15:36,960 --> 00:15:39,320
and obviously it looks
like African savannah
260
00:15:39,400 --> 00:15:41,200
but it feels like Surrey with giraffes,
261
00:15:41,280 --> 00:15:44,720
there is this desire to recreate something
that looks like suburban England,
262
00:15:44,800 --> 00:15:47,640
something sort of normal
and kind of golf clubby,
263
00:15:47,720 --> 00:15:49,360
it's just that they're giraffes
264
00:15:49,440 --> 00:15:52,680
and I guess that's Africa
as imagined by English people.
265
00:15:53,800 --> 00:15:56,480
But what are the challenges
of running this historic hotel?
266
00:15:58,640 --> 00:16:01,000
-So this is the dining room.
-Wow.
267
00:16:01,080 --> 00:16:05,040
Which has absolutely no electricity,
all candlelit.
268
00:16:06,280 --> 00:16:09,080
So you're offering people
a nostalgic return
269
00:16:09,160 --> 00:16:10,480
to a simpler way of living.
270
00:16:10,560 --> 00:16:12,920
Is that one of the things
that people are looking for?
271
00:16:13,000 --> 00:16:15,880
Definitely. People are definitely
looking for a time
272
00:16:15,960 --> 00:16:17,560
in a simpler environment, I think.
273
00:16:17,640 --> 00:16:19,560
-With Wi-Fi?
-With Wi-Fi.
274
00:16:20,120 --> 00:16:23,720
So you provide that for them and that
freedom and that return and that nostalgia
275
00:16:23,800 --> 00:16:26,240
but do they have other expectations
of home comforts?
276
00:16:26,320 --> 00:16:29,000
Food, accommodation, I mean this house,
277
00:16:29,600 --> 00:16:31,800
we really struggle
because a lot of you know,
278
00:16:31,880 --> 00:16:35,320
certainly the plumbing is archaic and…
279
00:16:35,400 --> 00:16:37,920
Yeah, it's nearly a hundred years old
and it's Africa--
280
00:16:38,000 --> 00:16:43,000
Yes and then you're dealing
with what's available on the market
281
00:16:43,080 --> 00:16:46,320
which isn't what's available
in London or New York
282
00:16:46,400 --> 00:16:50,800
but I think generally people
are quite forgiving,
283
00:16:50,880 --> 00:16:53,280
thankfully, to us
'cause we've got giraffes.
284
00:16:57,840 --> 00:17:00,520
Duty Manager, Tony, works
so closely with the giraffes
285
00:17:00,600 --> 00:17:02,080
that they're on first name terms.
286
00:17:03,080 --> 00:17:04,680
This is Kelly and this is Ed.
287
00:17:04,760 --> 00:17:07,880
Ed is our biggest male and Kelly
is almost the tallest female,
288
00:17:07,960 --> 00:17:09,839
she's about 14 years old.
289
00:17:11,599 --> 00:17:14,079
I'm quite scared of animals,
I wouldn't normally choose
290
00:17:14,160 --> 00:17:16,599
to get this close to a cow,
let alone a giraffe.
291
00:17:17,079 --> 00:17:20,839
On a country walk, I will turn around
and go back if I see cows.
292
00:17:20,920 --> 00:17:22,280
Can you catch? Yeah.
293
00:17:24,599 --> 00:17:28,040
In the grounds of the Manor
the giraffe eat the leaves of acacia,
294
00:17:28,119 --> 00:17:30,320
croton and African olive trees.
295
00:17:31,080 --> 00:17:32,960
I just feel like a nut vending machine.
296
00:17:34,440 --> 00:17:39,320
But here, Tony gives them treats
of oats, bran, and molasses pellets.
297
00:17:40,800 --> 00:17:44,560
The tongue of a giraffe
is up to 50 centimeters long
298
00:17:44,640 --> 00:17:46,160
and is surprisingly versatile.
299
00:17:47,000 --> 00:17:48,680
-This is a giraffe kiss.
-No, I'll try it.
300
00:17:51,520 --> 00:17:53,520
Yeah, good girl.
301
00:17:53,600 --> 00:17:54,760
Do they ever bite when you do that?
302
00:17:55,800 --> 00:17:57,960
So there's no risk attached
to kissing a giraffe?
303
00:17:59,120 --> 00:18:04,040
-Do you wanna kiss?
-Yeah, all right. Oh, you mean, I see.
304
00:18:12,520 --> 00:18:15,920
It's easier after two o'clock
at the Groucho Club to be honest.
305
00:18:17,800 --> 00:18:20,120
A giraffe's saliva is actually antiseptic,
306
00:18:20,200 --> 00:18:24,240
to protect them
from thorn cuts and cynics.
307
00:18:24,320 --> 00:18:28,480
I'm feeling quite a strong emotional bond,
I mean you know, I've had some kisses,
308
00:18:28,560 --> 00:18:31,800
he's nuzzled in a few times
but I mean he's only after one thing.
309
00:18:37,840 --> 00:18:40,080
Young giraffe born in the grounds
of the Manor
310
00:18:40,160 --> 00:18:44,480
are introduced into Kenya's protected
wild areas from the age of three.
311
00:18:45,040 --> 00:18:46,360
Back from the brink, there are now
312
00:18:46,440 --> 00:18:49,760
780 Rothschild giraffes overall
living in the wild.
313
00:18:54,280 --> 00:18:56,880
Whilst pellets are on offer
for the giraffes,
314
00:18:57,360 --> 00:18:59,960
guests at the manor feast
on dishes like poached fillet of beef
315
00:19:00,040 --> 00:19:02,880
and tamarillo tarte tatin
prepared by a team of ten.
316
00:19:07,040 --> 00:19:12,760
My names are David Kisevu
and I am the head chef of Giraffe Manor.
317
00:19:13,960 --> 00:19:17,320
We have hosted so many celebrities
in the Giraffe Manor.
318
00:19:17,400 --> 00:19:22,560
One of the guys I will never forget
I cooked for him was Richard Branson.
319
00:19:22,640 --> 00:19:23,600
I always remember.
320
00:19:27,040 --> 00:19:29,920
I love to cook, it's my passion.
321
00:19:30,000 --> 00:19:35,800
I want to make so many things to make them
so yummy so that the guests feel.
322
00:19:37,520 --> 00:19:40,000
Giraffe Manor is an extraordinary hotel.
323
00:19:40,080 --> 00:19:43,840
The guests who come here want a variety
of wildlife experiences.
324
00:19:43,920 --> 00:19:48,440
So Tanya and Mikey use the Manor as
the hub for a luxury safari business.
325
00:19:49,240 --> 00:19:53,040
They have remote lodges
in Samburu County and the Masai Mara
326
00:19:53,120 --> 00:19:55,880
and getting supplies out there
is not an easy feat.
327
00:19:56,960 --> 00:20:01,200
The man in charge of all things logistical
is Head of Operations, Ben Evans.
328
00:20:01,280 --> 00:20:06,480
We are providing a service to some of
the most demanding customers you can get
329
00:20:06,560 --> 00:20:08,440
and it's my job to make it look easy.
330
00:20:09,800 --> 00:20:11,520
So on almost a weekly basis,
331
00:20:11,600 --> 00:20:15,440
Ben dispatches lorries that travel
hundreds of miles to the camps,
332
00:20:15,520 --> 00:20:19,480
delivering everything
from plumbing supplies to food stuff.
333
00:20:23,200 --> 00:20:26,840
Braving pot holes,
wildlife and uncovered roads,
334
00:20:26,920 --> 00:20:30,240
the lorries are the lifeline
that keep the camps alive.
335
00:20:32,520 --> 00:20:35,320
Ben and his team service
one of the most remote
336
00:20:35,400 --> 00:20:39,600
and inaccessible lodges,
Sasaab which is in Samburu County.
337
00:20:41,040 --> 00:20:43,040
I'm looking forward to heading up
there next
338
00:20:43,120 --> 00:20:47,520
as I'm ready to explore the wilder side
of what Giraffe Manor has to offer.
339
00:20:48,480 --> 00:20:50,080
I've not been in Nairobi very long
340
00:20:50,160 --> 00:20:53,280
and to be here standing on the edge
of this beautiful hotel,
341
00:20:53,360 --> 00:20:56,440
feeding this beautiful thing,
it feels a little bit too easy,
342
00:20:56,520 --> 00:20:58,480
I feel slightly uncomfortable spoon-fed.
343
00:20:58,560 --> 00:21:03,800
I kind of want my game experience
to be wild, to be more difficult.
344
00:21:03,880 --> 00:21:05,800
I kind of want more of
a struggle, you know,
345
00:21:05,880 --> 00:21:09,760
something's almost more worth having
if you have to work for it.
346
00:21:11,360 --> 00:21:14,960
Ben has invited us to hitch a ride
on one of his supply flights to Sasaab.
347
00:21:16,400 --> 00:21:18,800
We're on our way
to meet him at the airfield
348
00:21:18,880 --> 00:21:22,120
where we've been told
he's waiting in a rather small plane.
349
00:21:22,680 --> 00:21:26,720
This was my only hesitancy
about coming here at all was the plane.
350
00:21:26,800 --> 00:21:29,240
Because, you know,
I don't like flying that much.
351
00:21:29,320 --> 00:21:31,760
You know if you have an engine failure
in a jumbo jet, you know,
352
00:21:31,840 --> 00:21:32,960
you're all dead whereas,
353
00:21:33,040 --> 00:21:35,920
and theoretically a little plan
like that you can still land it,
354
00:21:36,000 --> 00:21:39,240
but then you land it
and then you get eaten by lions.
355
00:21:39,320 --> 00:21:42,120
You're such a great companion
to travel with.
356
00:21:42,200 --> 00:21:45,960
I feel so much better
that I'm going to die with you.
357
00:21:46,040 --> 00:21:48,640
I'm gonna pass on
some of my heebie-jeebies to you.
358
00:21:48,720 --> 00:21:50,080
I think you've done a great job.
359
00:21:52,320 --> 00:21:54,120
Looks like a nice day for flying.
360
00:21:54,680 --> 00:21:56,920
I hope we're going in that
slightly bigger one there.
361
00:22:00,600 --> 00:22:02,240
It's a Robin Reliant with wings.
362
00:22:03,200 --> 00:22:06,280
I have never flown in a plane
like this before.
363
00:22:06,360 --> 00:22:10,800
My honest and first reaction
was shock horror at how small it is.
364
00:22:10,880 --> 00:22:14,240
What happens if you have
some medical incident or something,
365
00:22:14,320 --> 00:22:15,360
you have a cardiac or?
366
00:22:15,440 --> 00:22:17,320
Well, then, we can talk you through it.
367
00:22:17,400 --> 00:22:19,480
I just boot you out
and talk to air control.
368
00:22:19,560 --> 00:22:21,600
I'll tell you when to press the button.
369
00:22:21,680 --> 00:22:24,400
It's hard to believe they'll be space
for anything else.
370
00:22:24,480 --> 00:22:28,480
But we need to squeeze in bottles of
champagne and a small gang of chickens.
371
00:22:30,560 --> 00:22:31,520
Ready?
372
00:22:31,600 --> 00:22:33,640
They seem to be dreading it
as much as we are.
373
00:22:33,720 --> 00:22:35,560
I'll have the champagne next to me here.
374
00:22:38,680 --> 00:22:39,840
Very cozy.
375
00:22:39,920 --> 00:22:41,200
-Ready?
-Yep.
376
00:22:41,880 --> 00:22:43,320
You are coming, aren't you?
377
00:22:46,360 --> 00:22:48,000
Why have I got controls?
378
00:22:48,080 --> 00:22:50,000
Just in case I mess up.
379
00:22:51,840 --> 00:22:52,880
Hold on to your knickers.
380
00:22:55,800 --> 00:22:59,080
It's like an old car. I had a car
when I was a student,
381
00:22:59,160 --> 00:23:02,200
a kind of 40 year old car
that smelt like this and looked like this
382
00:23:03,640 --> 00:23:05,000
and broke down all the time.
383
00:23:07,160 --> 00:23:09,560
Might get a little bit of turbulence
coming through here.
384
00:23:12,800 --> 00:23:16,360
-Why did you put that seat belt?
-My head actually hit the roof.
385
00:23:18,880 --> 00:23:23,320
But we soon forget our fears as we see
the landscape unfolding beneath us.
386
00:23:28,200 --> 00:23:31,720
My goodness. That looks so beautiful.
387
00:23:33,000 --> 00:23:37,200
Sasaab Lodge is 230 miles
north of Nairobi.
388
00:23:37,280 --> 00:23:40,960
Whilst Giraffe Manor
boasts lush manicured gardens,
389
00:23:41,040 --> 00:23:46,800
out here temperatures can hit
45 degrees, it's hot, dry, and arid.
390
00:23:46,880 --> 00:23:50,440
-There are elephant.
-Look at them.
391
00:23:54,680 --> 00:23:56,520
That's amazing.
392
00:23:58,320 --> 00:24:00,920
Here we are, Sasaab.
393
00:24:01,000 --> 00:24:04,120
Perched on the banks
of the Ewaso river in the Rift Valley,
394
00:24:04,680 --> 00:24:07,680
Sasaab lookout towards the heights
of Mount Kenya.
395
00:24:09,360 --> 00:24:14,960
The six-acre plot of Sasaab Lodge
lies within 82,000 acres of community land
396
00:24:15,520 --> 00:24:17,520
owned by the local Samburu people.
397
00:24:22,320 --> 00:24:25,320
I've literally had my arse
clenched for the entire trip.
398
00:24:29,520 --> 00:24:32,960
That was so fun. I actually I don't know
what I enjoyed more,
399
00:24:33,040 --> 00:24:37,040
the plane ride or just watching
Giles squirm and scream in there.
400
00:24:39,280 --> 00:24:42,080
Would not imagine a hotel out here.
401
00:24:48,360 --> 00:24:51,520
The only way to access the lodge
is down a dirt track.
402
00:24:51,600 --> 00:24:53,200
It's also very beautiful.
403
00:24:53,840 --> 00:24:56,560
And the nearest town is 91 miles away.
404
00:24:58,080 --> 00:25:02,240
Sasaab was built in 2007
by Tanya and Mikey
405
00:25:02,320 --> 00:25:05,520
with a team of 100 people
working in searing heat.
406
00:25:06,480 --> 00:25:08,600
Because of its isolated position,
407
00:25:08,680 --> 00:25:12,040
building materials were moved
by hand and wheelbarrow
408
00:25:12,120 --> 00:25:14,040
as trucks couldn't reach the site.
409
00:25:16,120 --> 00:25:17,800
Oh, look at…
410
00:25:27,080 --> 00:25:30,360
Look at this place. Oh, my goodness.
411
00:25:34,120 --> 00:25:35,560
Oh, this view, my goodness.
412
00:25:37,000 --> 00:25:41,120
To get water out here,
the hotel had to dig its own well
413
00:25:41,200 --> 00:25:44,400
and the whole complex
is powered by solar energy.
414
00:25:45,320 --> 00:25:47,360
Up to 800 pounds per night gets you
415
00:25:47,440 --> 00:25:50,880
one of the nine high-spec rooms
with outdoor bathrooms,
416
00:25:50,960 --> 00:25:54,920
private plunge pools
and if you're lucky views of giraffes,
417
00:25:55,000 --> 00:25:58,720
big cats and elephants
casually strolling by.
418
00:26:03,520 --> 00:26:06,480
Scott Dyson is the manager
of Sasaab Lodge.
419
00:26:07,040 --> 00:26:10,320
He and his team want to depend less
on deliveries from Nairobi
420
00:26:10,400 --> 00:26:12,400
and are trying to be self-sufficient.
421
00:26:13,760 --> 00:26:18,320
Providing luxury in places like this
involves thinking outside the box
422
00:26:18,400 --> 00:26:20,840
or in this case, the egg carton.
423
00:26:21,640 --> 00:26:22,960
-Giles?
-All right, how are you?
424
00:26:23,040 --> 00:26:24,200
Very good, how you doing?
425
00:26:24,280 --> 00:26:28,000
Scott couldn't source eggs locally
and the long bumpy journey from Nairobi
426
00:26:28,080 --> 00:26:29,320
results in eggs being smashed.
427
00:26:30,160 --> 00:26:32,640
Not quite the scrambled eggs
his guests demand.
428
00:26:33,320 --> 00:26:36,400
So I'm looking forward to seeing
what you've done with my chickens.
429
00:26:36,480 --> 00:26:38,400
So he's nurturing his own brood.
430
00:26:38,480 --> 00:26:39,560
After you.
431
00:26:39,640 --> 00:26:42,520
My feathered fellow passengers
are reinforcements.
432
00:26:43,080 --> 00:26:46,000
But newcomers aren't
always welcome in this coup.
433
00:26:47,160 --> 00:26:49,120
Because they're going to be a minority,
434
00:26:49,200 --> 00:26:51,600
the resident flock
could start picking on them.
435
00:26:51,680 --> 00:26:53,480
What are we gonna do with them now?
436
00:26:53,560 --> 00:26:56,240
We will release all four of them
simultaneously,
437
00:26:56,320 --> 00:27:00,360
not one at a time, we give them four
to choose from it may help.
438
00:27:00,440 --> 00:27:02,760
What are you expecting,
really it's like a cage fight?
439
00:27:02,840 --> 00:27:05,880
-I mean--
-They can be brutal.
440
00:27:06,840 --> 00:27:08,240
Let's see what happens.
441
00:27:08,720 --> 00:27:12,520
I'll get these three out first.
Okay everything seems fine.
442
00:27:12,600 --> 00:27:15,680
My word this one looks
like an evil, what do I do? Tip him out?
443
00:27:15,760 --> 00:27:17,360
-Yeah, tip him out.
-Go on, my son.
444
00:27:17,440 --> 00:27:18,680
Let's see what happens.
445
00:27:20,200 --> 00:27:21,640
Is he gonna come for me?
446
00:27:21,720 --> 00:27:24,680
No. Just close that.
447
00:27:30,880 --> 00:27:32,760
This is the one that's been bullied.
448
00:27:35,200 --> 00:27:39,160
-You got him, good shot.
-Put it in its own little spot.
449
00:27:39,240 --> 00:27:43,280
Very good, there you go,
you can just relax in there.
450
00:27:44,040 --> 00:27:46,800
Whilst this hen is put into solitary
for her own protection,
451
00:27:47,360 --> 00:27:49,560
Scott shows me his chicken fortress.
452
00:27:50,480 --> 00:27:55,200
So this is so far
the impenetrable coup where they sleep.
453
00:27:55,280 --> 00:27:56,720
Why is it so impenetrable?
454
00:27:57,240 --> 00:28:01,520
Because of leopard, honey badgers,
mongooses, and janets,
455
00:28:01,600 --> 00:28:07,720
there's a host of different animals
that have the wit and strength
456
00:28:07,800 --> 00:28:11,040
to be able to cause major damage
to a flock of chickens.
457
00:28:11,600 --> 00:28:16,720
-And if anything does get in there?
-We will accept defeat and realize
458
00:28:16,800 --> 00:28:18,560
that whatever it was very hungry,
459
00:28:18,640 --> 00:28:21,000
and deserved the chicken
at the end of the day.
460
00:28:21,840 --> 00:28:24,360
And also I guess because your guests
have come here
461
00:28:24,440 --> 00:28:25,960
for the leopards, not the chickens.
462
00:28:26,040 --> 00:28:27,480
Exactly.
463
00:28:27,560 --> 00:28:29,200
I suppose it goes without saying
464
00:28:29,280 --> 00:28:32,720
if you're having breakfast in a hotel
anywhere in the world you expect eggs,
465
00:28:32,800 --> 00:28:36,440
the problem that Scott obviously
has is leopards and lions,
466
00:28:36,520 --> 00:28:40,000
and attacks from jackals, let alone
the strife of the chickens
467
00:28:40,080 --> 00:28:42,960
within themselves. I mean,
he's bringing in new kind of animal
468
00:28:43,040 --> 00:28:45,360
to this teaming savannah
and trying to make a go
469
00:28:45,440 --> 00:28:46,480
of keeping them alive.
470
00:28:46,560 --> 00:28:49,720
It's a lot to think about when you're
tucking into your morning omelet.
471
00:28:53,520 --> 00:28:57,440
Giles has emerged unscathed from
the chicken version of West Side Story.
472
00:28:58,600 --> 00:29:01,200
But I'm heading in to the bush
for some eggs from the coup
473
00:29:01,680 --> 00:29:03,320
to make a safari breakfast on the go.
474
00:29:07,280 --> 00:29:09,920
Our guests are honeymooners,
Florence and Frank.
475
00:29:10,600 --> 00:29:11,880
-Wow, we're doing well.
-Yeah.
476
00:29:11,960 --> 00:29:13,520
Doing very well actually.
477
00:29:18,800 --> 00:29:21,000
Amazing!
478
00:29:25,480 --> 00:29:27,040
Once we find the perfect place,
479
00:29:27,120 --> 00:29:29,920
it's time for me to help the lodge staff
prepare breakfast.
480
00:29:30,800 --> 00:29:32,480
What a spot for breakfast.
481
00:29:33,840 --> 00:29:37,680
The food on offer today is quite different
to the safari fare of days gone by.
482
00:29:38,160 --> 00:29:39,240
I'm being spoilt.
483
00:29:39,800 --> 00:29:42,080
When Mikey's family first took people
on safari,
484
00:29:42,160 --> 00:29:45,040
a square meal, a roast and potatoes
485
00:29:45,120 --> 00:29:49,880
was basically accepted by anybody
and they really appreciated that.
486
00:29:49,960 --> 00:29:53,840
In today's world, they're expecting
first class food, wine,
487
00:29:53,920 --> 00:29:56,400
and everything else that goes with it.
488
00:29:59,360 --> 00:30:02,440
I'm preparing a champagne breakfast
you might expect at a restaurant.
489
00:30:02,520 --> 00:30:05,360
Eggs, smoked salmon and hollandaise sauce.
490
00:30:06,880 --> 00:30:09,560
But I'm miles from power,
cooking on a camping stove
491
00:30:09,640 --> 00:30:11,680
and what seems to be a wooden box.
492
00:30:12,240 --> 00:30:17,080
This could not be any more different
to working in my kitchen.
493
00:30:18,480 --> 00:30:23,000
Never would I have thought in my career,
I'd be out here in Kenya cooking breakfast
494
00:30:23,080 --> 00:30:26,960
with elephants and giraffes
just across the way there.
495
00:30:27,040 --> 00:30:28,440
Life is great.
496
00:30:33,200 --> 00:30:35,240
Delicious, absolutely delicious.
497
00:30:35,800 --> 00:30:38,560
I'd love to swim but I know
there's crocodiles in there.
498
00:30:51,160 --> 00:30:54,880
The guests who come to Sasaab Lodge
have certain expectations.
499
00:30:55,800 --> 00:31:00,000
This means manager Scott has to maintain
high standards throughout the grounds
500
00:31:00,080 --> 00:31:03,920
regardless of the remote, dry,
and dusty location.
501
00:31:04,440 --> 00:31:08,160
I'm helping him patch up
one of the lodge's ten plunge pools.
502
00:31:08,240 --> 00:31:10,680
So are these guests going to be happy
with their white pool as they look out
503
00:31:10,760 --> 00:31:12,160
over their river and all that?
504
00:31:12,240 --> 00:31:14,840
What are the nice things
of most extreme elements of luxury
505
00:31:14,920 --> 00:31:16,200
that they expect or complaints
that they make?
506
00:31:16,280 --> 00:31:22,440
There are some properties that will have
every possible amenity under the sun,
507
00:31:22,520 --> 00:31:26,040
if some clients' friends
have been on safari before,
508
00:31:26,120 --> 00:31:30,160
at one of these places that are
really over the top with air conditioning
509
00:31:30,240 --> 00:31:32,760
and everything like that,
then you know some people
510
00:31:32,840 --> 00:31:36,360
could be a little bit let down
or disturbed by certain things.
511
00:31:36,440 --> 00:31:38,000
People are coming from Europe
and North America,
512
00:31:38,080 --> 00:31:41,800
places where food is so plentiful that
they invent all kinds of imaginary things
513
00:31:41,880 --> 00:31:44,760
that they think they need
to make themselves healthy, you know.
514
00:31:44,840 --> 00:31:47,840
They're obsessed with vitamins
and fiber and hydration
515
00:31:47,920 --> 00:31:49,120
and these kinds of things,
516
00:31:49,200 --> 00:31:52,120
which to people who have so little
it must just seem ridiculous.
517
00:31:52,200 --> 00:31:54,840
Exactly and the local,
we'll be walking along this river,
518
00:31:54,920 --> 00:31:57,320
bend over and cut their hand
and take a sip
519
00:31:57,400 --> 00:32:01,320
and then guests come here and insist
that they need to have bottled water.
520
00:32:01,400 --> 00:32:04,600
Obviously all the staff scratch their
heads in amazement when that happens.
521
00:32:07,120 --> 00:32:10,440
Out here, Tanya and Mikey
have to rely on the Samburu people
522
00:32:10,520 --> 00:32:12,520
who live alongside the lodge.
523
00:32:14,160 --> 00:32:17,080
Perhaps surprisingly it's the Samburu
who are the landlords here,
524
00:32:17,160 --> 00:32:19,280
Tanya and Mikey are the tenants.
525
00:32:20,240 --> 00:32:23,360
It's totally different to running
a big hotel in Nairobi.
526
00:32:23,440 --> 00:32:25,920
This is what we call
a community group branch
527
00:32:26,000 --> 00:32:31,960
whereby the Samburu community,
550 families own this land,
528
00:32:32,040 --> 00:32:37,640
the land where the lodge is situated on
and we rent the land from the community,
529
00:32:37,720 --> 00:32:40,080
from the Samburu people
and give them a bed night fee
530
00:32:40,160 --> 00:32:46,520
for every guest that stays in the lodge,
the community gets paid money as a rent.
531
00:32:46,600 --> 00:32:49,440
So, it enables them
to have an income from tourism,
532
00:32:49,520 --> 00:32:53,440
which enables us to protect
the wildlife for future generations.
533
00:32:53,520 --> 00:32:58,000
Mikey and Tanya pay 58 dollars
per guest per night to the community.
534
00:32:59,520 --> 00:33:01,880
As well as deriving some income
from the lodge,
535
00:33:01,960 --> 00:33:04,680
the local Samburu people have access
to new job opportunities.
536
00:33:05,960 --> 00:33:10,880
Tanya and Mikey have committed to employ
75% of their workers from the local area.
537
00:33:13,240 --> 00:33:16,920
On average, the wage paid to one
such worker will go on to support at least
538
00:33:17,000 --> 00:33:19,240
ten other people
in their family and community.
539
00:33:21,360 --> 00:33:24,840
And it seems that work here
is highly sought after.
540
00:33:27,440 --> 00:33:28,320
Go ahead, Nicks.
541
00:33:35,080 --> 00:33:37,600
So this is a normal thing,
you're painting a plunge pool
542
00:33:37,680 --> 00:33:40,640
and you get a call on the intercom
there's a warrior at reception
543
00:33:40,720 --> 00:33:41,560
looking for a job.
544
00:33:41,640 --> 00:33:44,520
We do often have the local warriors
coming in looking for work,
545
00:33:44,600 --> 00:33:49,320
we've actually got one employed now
who's helping look after our camels.
546
00:33:49,400 --> 00:33:51,880
I like the sound of this
job-seeking warrior.
547
00:33:52,360 --> 00:33:55,000
Do you have any idea
what sort of work he's going to want?
548
00:33:59,920 --> 00:34:01,320
Welcome, I'm Giles.
549
00:34:01,400 --> 00:34:04,080
Can you ask him for me why he wants
to work here?
550
00:34:17,679 --> 00:34:21,239
He knows a lot of the staff here,
it's very close to his home
551
00:34:21,840 --> 00:34:23,360
which is another big perk.
552
00:34:24,360 --> 00:34:27,000
Sadly, at the moment you know,
we've got all,
553
00:34:27,080 --> 00:34:30,000
all the positions covered for
but in the event that you know,
554
00:34:30,080 --> 00:34:32,840
we get higher occupancy
or some of our staff
555
00:34:32,920 --> 00:34:36,239
require their off days,
then we will be able to call him.
556
00:34:36,320 --> 00:34:37,520
-Good luck.
-Good luck.
557
00:34:39,159 --> 00:34:41,280
It's quite an interesting thing
seeing this fellow
558
00:34:41,360 --> 00:34:44,280
basically arrive looking
for a job just walked over from
559
00:34:44,360 --> 00:34:46,920
the nearest village.
When I've seen other guys like that,
560
00:34:47,000 --> 00:34:50,639
Samburu warrior, you can't help wondering
have they dressed up like that for me,
561
00:34:50,719 --> 00:34:51,880
have they dressed up like that for the BBC
562
00:34:51,960 --> 00:34:54,280
when actually they're just wearing
Man United strips all the time.
563
00:34:54,360 --> 00:34:57,560
But this guy's just walked over
looking for a job in the clothes
564
00:34:57,640 --> 00:34:59,640
that a Samburu warrior wears every day
565
00:34:59,720 --> 00:35:02,800
and he's not gone lucky today
but he may another time.
566
00:35:05,600 --> 00:35:08,960
However, for people used to living
and working in the bush,
567
00:35:09,040 --> 00:35:11,360
delivering western forms of hospitality
568
00:35:11,440 --> 00:35:14,640
often requires a degree
of cultural adjustment.
569
00:35:15,200 --> 00:35:18,800
After years of training staff,
Tanya has her own observations.
570
00:35:19,480 --> 00:35:23,440
Seeing a straight line does not
come naturally to people
571
00:35:23,520 --> 00:35:26,160
who have not had to have
straight lines around them.
572
00:35:27,760 --> 00:35:31,200
You look out into wilderness,
there's nothing straight about it
573
00:35:31,280 --> 00:35:36,640
actually, and hanging a mirror
or a picture straight is a challenge.
574
00:35:44,040 --> 00:35:47,400
The most coveted role at the lodge
is safari guide.
575
00:35:48,480 --> 00:35:52,600
Twenty eight year old Jacob
is one of the most senior guides.
576
00:35:52,680 --> 00:35:55,960
It's taken him three years
to get the necessary licenses
577
00:35:56,040 --> 00:36:00,680
and now he educates international guests
about his region and his wildlife.
578
00:36:01,200 --> 00:36:06,840
This is a footprints.
So they are heading up that way.
579
00:36:09,560 --> 00:36:13,160
But on days off,
Jacob still herds the family goats.
580
00:36:14,200 --> 00:36:16,200
He's also a Samburu warrior.
581
00:36:16,280 --> 00:36:19,960
In Samburu culture, a warrior
is a single man under 30
582
00:36:20,040 --> 00:36:23,560
responsible for protecting the village
and looking after animals.
583
00:36:30,720 --> 00:36:32,760
When I go home when I'm not working
584
00:36:32,840 --> 00:36:35,160
I'm still going back
to look after the goats, cows,
585
00:36:35,240 --> 00:36:40,200
camels and helping
in every day duty in the village.
586
00:36:58,120 --> 00:37:01,520
When he's herding animals,
Jacob walks the savannah.
587
00:37:02,120 --> 00:37:05,840
When he's a tourist guide,
he makes his journeys by car or camel.
588
00:37:06,920 --> 00:37:10,160
I'm joining Jacob to see what kind
of experience he offers his guests.
589
00:37:10,240 --> 00:37:12,240
-I'm Jacob, nice to meet you.
-How are you?
590
00:37:12,320 --> 00:37:15,720
Although I'm not sure I fancy getting
close to one of these feisty beasts.
591
00:37:19,280 --> 00:37:22,280
He's very big. Do they bite or anything?
592
00:37:22,840 --> 00:37:26,240
They bite. Sometimes they spit
but it's not very much.
593
00:37:27,000 --> 00:37:28,040
It's enough.
594
00:37:30,080 --> 00:37:32,720
Shall I put it on that one?
And then just chuck it over?
595
00:37:38,400 --> 00:37:41,040
I've never ridden a camel before,
it never occurred to me
596
00:37:41,120 --> 00:37:44,560
till this morning that I never had,
I've never particularly wanted to it,
597
00:37:44,640 --> 00:37:48,360
it's just it's better than,
than going in a Land Rover isn't it
598
00:37:48,440 --> 00:37:51,320
because you're not going to scare away
the lions and the leopards,
599
00:37:51,400 --> 00:37:53,120
in fact you're probably
going to attract them
600
00:37:53,200 --> 00:37:55,040
with the possibility
of a tasty camel lunch.
601
00:37:56,360 --> 00:37:58,360
So we are going with the ranger here.
602
00:37:58,440 --> 00:38:01,160
'Cause we have the elephants
where we're going to.
603
00:38:01,240 --> 00:38:06,720
-Will that kill an elephant?
-One bullet, one or two. Maybe three.
604
00:38:06,800 --> 00:38:09,920
Okay, it's taken a whole different
complexion, these trips.
605
00:38:10,000 --> 00:38:11,200
Okay, let's go, then.
606
00:38:11,280 --> 00:38:14,120
All right. First of all you put your leg,
your left foot.
607
00:38:14,720 --> 00:38:17,880
-This one there?
-Yeah, then should be okay.
608
00:38:19,760 --> 00:38:21,640
And you hold tight here.
609
00:38:22,840 --> 00:38:25,320
I'm not sure my legs bend like that,
where are they meant to go?
610
00:38:25,400 --> 00:38:26,720
Just right there.
611
00:38:28,640 --> 00:38:29,520
What's up?
612
00:38:29,600 --> 00:38:32,560
Well, my legs don't really bend like that.
613
00:38:33,480 --> 00:38:36,120
-So what shall I do?
-Maybe change your shorts.
614
00:38:38,200 --> 00:38:39,920
I've just changed
into the researcher's shorts
615
00:38:40,000 --> 00:38:41,840
because mine were a bit tight
to get on the camel
616
00:38:41,920 --> 00:38:44,920
so like a bit embarrassing,
will try and do it now.
617
00:38:49,000 --> 00:38:50,120
Don't be afraid.
618
00:38:59,680 --> 00:39:03,400
Supposing the elephant comes and then
the camel is afraid,
619
00:39:03,480 --> 00:39:07,920
and the camel runs off over there.
What do I do?
620
00:39:08,400 --> 00:39:10,200
You just really need to hold on the camel.
621
00:39:10,280 --> 00:39:12,520
-What if he bites me?
-No it's not going to bite you.
622
00:39:14,360 --> 00:39:18,280
What if my nuts just go back
inside my sternum?
623
00:39:28,480 --> 00:39:32,280
So hold tight, it's like going
to drop you down.
624
00:39:32,360 --> 00:39:35,760
Thank you. That was brilliant,
Thank you that was fantastic.
625
00:39:37,880 --> 00:39:41,000
No wonder they invented the horse
and the car.
626
00:39:42,200 --> 00:39:45,720
I take the opportunity
to sit down carefully with Jacob
627
00:39:45,800 --> 00:39:48,040
to talk about
local perceptions of tourism.
628
00:39:49,160 --> 00:39:50,720
What do the other ones think,
the more traditional ones
629
00:39:50,800 --> 00:39:52,720
think about people coming here,
630
00:39:52,800 --> 00:39:55,000
driving around
looking for lions and elephants?
631
00:39:55,080 --> 00:39:56,040
Do they think that's strange?
632
00:40:23,400 --> 00:40:25,360
Is it okay if we walk home?
633
00:40:25,440 --> 00:40:29,840
It wasn't very comfortable.
I'm walking a bit funny even now.
634
00:40:29,920 --> 00:40:31,320
-Because of the camel?
-Yeah.
635
00:40:33,600 --> 00:40:35,560
The arrival of the lodge nine years ago
636
00:40:35,640 --> 00:40:39,080
means life is changing for the locals
in an unprecedented way.
637
00:40:39,760 --> 00:40:43,760
Whereas previously, Samburu people
would breed and herd livestock to trade,
638
00:40:43,840 --> 00:40:46,960
through tourism they can now
earn a wage for the first time.
639
00:40:47,760 --> 00:40:52,080
This means that warriors like Jacob
are now able to buy more livestock sooner,
640
00:40:52,160 --> 00:40:56,920
out of 43 people employed at Sasaab Lodge,
three quarters are local Samburu,
641
00:40:57,000 --> 00:40:59,800
their wages go on to support
many other people
642
00:40:59,880 --> 00:41:01,280
within their families and community.
643
00:41:01,920 --> 00:41:03,880
-Yeah.
-Hello.
644
00:41:03,960 --> 00:41:08,080
Today is a warrior ceremony
in Jacob's village.
645
00:41:09,960 --> 00:41:13,560
It's a chance to see whether the lodge's
existence has changed the daily
646
00:41:13,640 --> 00:41:15,040
lives and culture of the villagers.
647
00:41:16,680 --> 00:41:18,080
-And they're singing.
-Yeah.
648
00:41:18,160 --> 00:41:19,480
-For me?
-Yeah!
649
00:41:20,960 --> 00:41:25,560
I'm moved by the vibrant welcome
and the deep sense of tradition here.
650
00:41:30,640 --> 00:41:31,760
Oh my head's too big.
651
00:41:34,160 --> 00:41:38,320
My cultural in Samoa, we do
a lot of singing to welcome people
652
00:41:38,400 --> 00:41:40,400
but that's a mix of women and men.
653
00:41:40,480 --> 00:41:43,920
It's never just the women that do it
alone, here it's very segregated.
654
00:41:47,360 --> 00:41:50,520
I'm with Jacob and the warriors
who are about to prepare a feast.
655
00:41:51,560 --> 00:41:54,680
And it's a world away from smoked
salmon and hollandaise sauce.
656
00:41:55,400 --> 00:41:58,400
-So you're going to kill it right here?
-Going to kill it here.
657
00:41:58,480 --> 00:42:00,640
And I'm being offered the best bit.
658
00:42:00,720 --> 00:42:03,040
-Are you going to drink the blood?
-Of this fella?
659
00:42:03,800 --> 00:42:08,000
It's not my normal thing
but if it's good I'll try it.
660
00:42:08,600 --> 00:42:12,360
Oh from the actual,
straight from the neck.
661
00:42:12,440 --> 00:42:14,600
I see. Cool.
662
00:42:16,800 --> 00:42:20,080
All I've known is a thing that warriors
in Eastern Africa do
663
00:42:20,160 --> 00:42:22,360
and I never wanted to put myself
in a situation
664
00:42:22,440 --> 00:42:24,520
where I would risk offending my host.
665
00:42:25,120 --> 00:42:29,840
-You ready for the blood?
-Yeah just a little bit…
666
00:42:33,480 --> 00:42:35,000
Okay, enough.
667
00:42:39,760 --> 00:42:42,320
It means "delicious" in Samburu,
by the way.
668
00:42:42,400 --> 00:42:44,840
I realize this looks gross to you
sitting at home
669
00:42:44,920 --> 00:42:47,360
having your dinner in front of the TV,
670
00:42:47,440 --> 00:42:50,280
this is what these guys do and I felt like
I ought to give it a go.
671
00:42:52,600 --> 00:42:55,280
Thick, it's like egg yolk
672
00:42:56,760 --> 00:42:59,560
Seeing this side of Jacob's life
makes me wonder
673
00:42:59,640 --> 00:43:02,240
what it's like balancing
two very different worlds.
674
00:43:02,960 --> 00:43:05,520
Is that easy for you
to go backwards and forwards?
675
00:43:27,160 --> 00:43:29,240
Msungus, me, white people.
676
00:43:33,960 --> 00:43:36,600
Whilst the lodge has bought some
fresh opportunities
677
00:43:36,680 --> 00:43:38,120
for local men and their families,
678
00:43:38,200 --> 00:43:41,280
for most of the ladies, it seems daily
life has remained the same.
679
00:43:44,040 --> 00:43:47,600
The women of the village still walk
for over an hour each day
680
00:43:47,680 --> 00:43:49,240
with donkeys to collect water.
681
00:43:49,320 --> 00:43:51,280
Are responsible
for all the domestic chores
682
00:43:51,360 --> 00:43:54,000
and get the left overs
from the men's feast.
683
00:43:55,880 --> 00:43:58,840
And do you think the women
are okay about that?
684
00:43:58,920 --> 00:44:00,680
Because it's their normal way of life?
685
00:44:05,080 --> 00:44:09,240
But can we ask them
are they happy to do that?
686
00:44:22,600 --> 00:44:25,120
So they're happy with the way things are?
687
00:44:27,040 --> 00:44:31,080
Samburu people working inside
the lodge wear hotel uniforms,
688
00:44:31,160 --> 00:44:34,280
but in his role as a guide,
Jacob can wear his own clothes.
689
00:44:35,800 --> 00:44:38,320
-Chubby msungus.
-Did you say chubby msungus?
690
00:44:40,760 --> 00:44:42,880
-Sorry.
-I heard you.
691
00:44:43,480 --> 00:44:46,880
Chubby white bastard.
I heard you say that.
692
00:44:47,440 --> 00:44:50,520
My outfit for the ceremony
on the other hand is borrowed.
693
00:44:51,920 --> 00:44:54,000
So I'm now dressed,
I'm ready for the party.
694
00:44:54,080 --> 00:44:55,680
Yeah very much ready to party.
695
00:44:55,760 --> 00:45:00,440
But I'm feeling a bit self-conscious
as a chubby msungus dressed as a warrior.
696
00:45:00,520 --> 00:45:03,760
Hey, you all right? You did it.
697
00:45:04,720 --> 00:45:07,840
-Wow. You want me to do that?
-Yeah.
698
00:45:09,560 --> 00:45:11,960
I haven't got a spear.
699
00:45:12,040 --> 00:45:13,880
-Can I be in the back?
-Yeah, on the back.
700
00:45:15,080 --> 00:45:18,200
At this point it should be said
that I loathe dancing.
701
00:45:25,320 --> 00:45:29,840
But I'm doing my best to keep up
with 30 fierce some pogoing warriors.
702
00:45:42,080 --> 00:45:44,040
There's a lot of laughing
going on I think.
703
00:45:44,120 --> 00:45:45,400
No, it's not.
704
00:45:48,880 --> 00:45:50,840
It's the last dance of the night
705
00:45:50,920 --> 00:45:54,040
and a chance for the men
to choose the most desirable partners.
706
00:45:56,520 --> 00:45:57,600
Oh, my god.
707
00:45:57,680 --> 00:46:00,000
-You go and dance, I'll watch.
-Make sure someone…
708
00:46:00,880 --> 00:46:02,000
That's absolutely typical,
709
00:46:02,080 --> 00:46:04,320
I've spent all day
becoming a Samburu warrior,
710
00:46:04,400 --> 00:46:05,600
dressing up already to dance
711
00:46:05,680 --> 00:46:09,000
and now my date Monica
has gone off with Jacob.
712
00:46:09,080 --> 00:46:10,280
I can't really blame her,
713
00:46:10,360 --> 00:46:13,520
he's a fine figure of a Samburu warrior
and I'm chubby msungus.
714
00:46:13,600 --> 00:46:15,880
So it's not surprising
I ended up without a date.
715
00:46:20,520 --> 00:46:24,800
The lodge generates money, jobs, and
some security for the local community
716
00:46:25,440 --> 00:46:29,280
but with that comes the prospect
of all kinds of other changes.
717
00:46:29,360 --> 00:46:35,840
I hope all the European influence
or the white influence on this way of life
718
00:46:35,920 --> 00:46:40,680
and this culture doesn't
overtake that, you know.
719
00:46:40,760 --> 00:46:46,320
This doesn't get lost
within the next 20, 30 years.
720
00:46:49,480 --> 00:46:54,440
Samburu is a passionate place
and they're passionate people,
721
00:46:55,320 --> 00:46:59,680
they have this cultural love of wildlife
722
00:47:00,240 --> 00:47:06,480
that makes working in harmony
with them a great asset.
723
00:47:08,960 --> 00:47:10,960
Of course it's more than a business,
724
00:47:12,760 --> 00:47:15,120
it's you know we do this for our family
725
00:47:15,200 --> 00:47:16,920
and for other people's families
726
00:47:17,720 --> 00:47:24,440
and just to help people understand
727
00:47:25,840 --> 00:47:30,600
and realize what a special place
or country we have.
728
00:47:41,560 --> 00:47:44,680
Back at the Manor,
it's time for afternoon tea.
729
00:47:46,720 --> 00:47:48,360
This is civilized.
730
00:47:48,440 --> 00:47:52,880
Over four decades since Betty and Jock
welcomed giraffe into their grounds,
731
00:47:52,960 --> 00:47:55,640
it can feel like nothing much
has changed in Kenya.
732
00:47:56,800 --> 00:47:57,680
I like how.
733
00:48:00,120 --> 00:48:03,120
Yet we've come a long way
since the big game hunts of the past.
734
00:48:05,240 --> 00:48:09,320
Today, travelers are offered the
experience of Africa in various packages.
735
00:48:10,240 --> 00:48:12,480
Some more safe
and comfortable than others.
736
00:48:13,040 --> 00:48:15,040
Don't do this at
the Dorchester Grandma, do we?
737
00:48:15,120 --> 00:48:18,040
Feed a giraffe after afternoon tea.
738
00:48:18,120 --> 00:48:20,480
Look at this baby running.
739
00:48:21,480 --> 00:48:25,920
Oh, she's beautiful. Oh, I mean, yeah.
740
00:48:29,400 --> 00:48:31,600
I don't think you could ever get
tired of giraffe.
741
00:48:32,960 --> 00:48:35,120
People, a different story,
but no, not the giraffe.
742
00:48:36,960 --> 00:48:39,720
Oh look, they're so cute.
743
00:48:44,640 --> 00:48:46,960
-Oh, they love it, don't you?
-What?
744
00:48:47,040 --> 00:48:48,640
-Feeding the giraffe.
-Yeah.
745
00:48:49,960 --> 00:48:52,640
It's that up close
and personal thing really,
746
00:48:52,720 --> 00:48:57,640
it's an intangible feeling wildlife,
being with wildlife, being in the bush,
747
00:48:57,720 --> 00:49:02,560
it's not something you can really explain,
you have to feel it
748
00:49:02,640 --> 00:49:06,960
and I think that's what draws people
emotively to this environment
749
00:49:07,040 --> 00:49:10,760
because it makes you
more alive, definitely.
750
00:49:14,240 --> 00:49:17,320
At its heart, the allure of this
extraordinary hotel
751
00:49:17,400 --> 00:49:21,080
and the people who run it rests
on enabling guests to get close to animals
752
00:49:21,160 --> 00:49:23,840
and to be moved by that.
753
00:49:27,720 --> 00:49:30,360
Yet the sensitive dynamic between tourism,
754
00:49:30,440 --> 00:49:33,720
wildlife and local communities
will continue to challenge
755
00:49:33,800 --> 00:49:37,880
all who visit Kenya
and everyone who calls it home.
69224
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