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1
00:00:08,926 --> 00:00:11,595
(waves crashing)
2
00:00:12,638 --> 00:00:16,142
(high-intensity rock music)
3
00:00:19,103 --> 00:00:24,024
Pipeline was a wave that people
once thought was not surfable.
4
00:00:24,191 --> 00:00:25,401
(music continues)
5
00:00:25,651 --> 00:00:28,904
It is one of the most dangerous
waves on the planet.
6
00:00:30,489 --> 00:00:34,034
{\an8}We've seen more deaths at this break
than any other surf spot in the world.
7
00:00:34,618 --> 00:00:37,913
Pipe is like the highest peak
that you can reach as a surfer.
8
00:00:40,750 --> 00:00:42,960
The next contest is the Vans Pipe Masters.
9
00:00:43,043 --> 00:00:46,088
This is the most iconic
surf contest in the world.
10
00:00:46,380 --> 00:00:50,009
If you wanna be the best surfer in the
world, you need to master Pipeline.
11
00:00:50,092 --> 00:00:53,053
If you don't master Pipeline,
you're not the best surfer in the world.
12
00:00:53,220 --> 00:00:55,306
- (waves crashing)
- (music crescendos)
13
00:01:00,853 --> 00:01:06,734
(upbeat music)
14
00:01:20,289 --> 00:01:25,211
Pipe is looking not so good right now,
but this wave can change so fast.
15
00:01:25,377 --> 00:01:31,675
All we can do is just be hopeful and start
manifesting positivity towards the ocean.
16
00:01:32,301 --> 00:01:36,722
The Vans Pipe Masters is
an invitation only event.
17
00:01:36,806 --> 00:01:42,061
It doesn't count towards any points,
but there's a big prize purse of $100,000.
18
00:01:42,228 --> 00:01:46,440
That's a lot of money.
It's prestigious, it's epic.
19
00:01:47,525 --> 00:01:51,654
{\an8}[announcer] Moana Jones
Wong has just won Pipeline!
20
00:01:51,987 --> 00:01:55,324
{\an8}[Moana] This time last year
I won the first ever
21
00:01:55,491 --> 00:01:58,619
major woman's contest at Pipeline.
I wanna win again.
22
00:01:59,203 --> 00:02:03,249
I'm gonna meditate a lot and feel.
Calm.
23
00:02:03,332 --> 00:02:06,919
Because Pipeline is not calm.
Pipeline is always chaos.
24
00:02:07,586 --> 00:02:09,547
- (waves crashing)
- (upbeat music)
25
00:02:09,630 --> 00:02:13,133
So normally when you surf Pipe
you're battling with about 100 people.
26
00:02:13,801 --> 00:02:15,928
But when you're
in a contest out at Pipe
27
00:02:16,178 --> 00:02:18,013
and there's just three
other people out there,
28
00:02:18,264 --> 00:02:21,225
there's nobody paddling for your waves.
There's nobody in your way.
29
00:02:21,392 --> 00:02:24,895
You don't have to worry about like
maneuvering around tons of people.
30
00:02:25,104 --> 00:02:29,066
It's just like it's the best thing ever.
I love surfing out there in a heat.
31
00:02:29,483 --> 00:02:32,945
I know that I have the most experience
out of every girl out there.
32
00:02:33,445 --> 00:02:35,948
But that's not how it works.
You can be the best surfer in the world
33
00:02:36,031 --> 00:02:38,492
and Pipe will show
you who's boss really fast.
34
00:02:39,785 --> 00:02:43,706
(upbeat music)
35
00:02:50,129 --> 00:02:54,967
{\an8}I got invited as the first alternate
for the Vans Pipe Masters contest.
36
00:02:55,718 --> 00:03:00,639
But, Pipeline's a very dangerous wave.
I just don't really go out there.
37
00:03:00,806 --> 00:03:02,933
But when I do, I'll be out
there for like three hours
38
00:03:03,017 --> 00:03:04,226
and not catch a single wave.
39
00:03:04,560 --> 00:03:06,896
I don't wanna go out to a
contest and not perform well.
40
00:03:07,062 --> 00:03:11,191
I wanna make sure that I'm ready and like
I don't know if I am.
41
00:03:12,318 --> 00:03:14,778
(waves roaring)
42
00:03:17,448 --> 00:03:20,200
{\an8}(birds chirping)
43
00:03:21,160 --> 00:03:24,496
{\an8}I definitely do have days
where I question
44
00:03:24,580 --> 00:03:27,958
{\an8}if I want to continue
to compete in surfing
45
00:03:28,042 --> 00:03:31,128
because the pressure just
takes away the love for it.
46
00:03:31,211 --> 00:03:34,506
{\an8}[Koral] That smile across your face.
47
00:03:36,508 --> 00:03:40,054
Auntie Koral is like
a second mama to me.
48
00:03:40,137 --> 00:03:43,265
{\an8}She's just very wise,
and she's experienced so much in life
49
00:03:43,349 --> 00:03:46,268
{\an8}and has so much knowledge
to give and share.
50
00:03:46,352 --> 00:03:48,854
[Koral] Why do you look so solemn?
[chuckles]
51
00:03:49,647 --> 00:03:51,148
Hella... was just like...
52
00:03:52,232 --> 00:03:55,444
- Rough day.
- Rough day for sure and like you know,
53
00:03:55,527 --> 00:03:59,782
the heat and how I like
surfed terribly and embarrassed myself.
54
00:03:59,865 --> 00:04:02,451
I think like sitting down and
like thinking about like
55
00:04:02,534 --> 00:04:08,916
is this what I want to do is kind of, the
question that's running through my mind.
56
00:04:09,291 --> 00:04:11,293
So, what's the overall goal?
57
00:04:11,377 --> 00:04:14,296
Go around the world and
like connect with cultures.
58
00:04:14,505 --> 00:04:17,049
Competing is the harder part for me.
59
00:04:17,216 --> 00:04:20,844
I just feel like every time I put a jersey
on with pressure or without pressure,
60
00:04:21,011 --> 00:04:23,639
it's like I'm not showing
my best performance.
61
00:04:24,264 --> 00:04:26,433
[Koral] Huh. You grew up loving surfing
'cause it's so fun.
62
00:04:26,517 --> 00:04:28,102
- Yeah.
- And the ideal goal
63
00:04:28,268 --> 00:04:33,941
is to do what you love as your job, but
it is hard. Do whatever brings you joy.
64
00:04:34,024 --> 00:04:37,236
And if you love competing, compete.
If you don't, keep surfing
65
00:04:37,319 --> 00:04:39,321
as a part of your life
that brings you joy.
66
00:04:39,738 --> 00:04:43,367
It's just making sure you're
loving it along the way
67
00:04:43,450 --> 00:04:47,454
and you don't lose touch with
that fine joy it brings you.
68
00:04:48,831 --> 00:04:52,543
(gentle music)
69
00:05:01,051 --> 00:05:05,097
I definitely underestimate myself
and that's why I think I have bad heats.
70
00:05:05,180 --> 00:05:08,308
I need to be working on my mental health.
71
00:05:08,434 --> 00:05:12,104
You know, go back to the root of my
11 year old self and my love for surfing
72
00:05:12,229 --> 00:05:15,232
because I do love it
at the end of the day.
73
00:05:16,108 --> 00:05:19,653
(music continues)
74
00:05:32,541 --> 00:05:34,543
- [Maluhia] When do you graduate?
- [Ēwe] Uh, May.
75
00:05:34,626 --> 00:05:35,461
{\an8}- Just a little bit.
- [Ēwe] Almost there.
76
00:05:35,544 --> 00:05:37,463
{\an8}You're in the home stretch.
I'm stoked for you.
77
00:05:37,546 --> 00:05:41,592
{\an8}Thank you. Kind of gonna take the
next year to just experiment
78
00:05:41,675 --> 00:05:44,470
{\an8}- even with my competitive surfing and...
- [Maluhia] Yeah
79
00:05:44,553 --> 00:05:46,138
- And then life in general.
- Yeah.
80
00:05:46,221 --> 00:05:48,682
[Maluhia] Are you on the
wild card for Pipeline?
81
00:05:48,891 --> 00:05:53,896
I got an invitation as first alternate
but I turned it down
82
00:05:54,021 --> 00:05:57,983
just because I personally don't think
that I am ready to surf Pipeline.
83
00:05:58,067 --> 00:06:02,237
That wave is so, has so much mana
you gotta be like 150%.
84
00:06:02,446 --> 00:06:04,782
It's a huge safety thing
if you're not ready.
85
00:06:04,948 --> 00:06:09,495
And I don't want to be like tentative at
Pipeline just 'cause I'm scared to like...
86
00:06:09,620 --> 00:06:11,205
- Yeah
- Get hurt.
87
00:06:11,288 --> 00:06:13,332
I'm proud of you. I think that's a really
good decision for yourself.
88
00:06:13,415 --> 00:06:14,583
- Thank you.
- [both] Yeah.
89
00:06:14,792 --> 00:06:17,753
- [gentle music]
- A lot of people get really hurt at Pipe.
90
00:06:17,920 --> 00:06:20,756
Like you should know what you're doing
if you're going out there.
91
00:06:20,839 --> 00:06:26,428
And I don't think that I am
ready this year to surf Pipe.
92
00:06:28,138 --> 00:06:34,686
I'm hoping that this year I learn the wave
and just like get better at barrel riding.
93
00:06:35,437 --> 00:06:38,857
I see a lot of growth.
I think you're gonna like
94
00:06:38,941 --> 00:06:42,111
just have the coolest trajectory to watch.
I'm super excited.
95
00:06:42,194 --> 00:06:43,362
- Thank you.
- Yeah.
96
00:06:43,445 --> 00:06:45,781
Well I'm very lucky to have
you as a great role model.
97
00:06:45,906 --> 00:06:49,993
Yeah. And I'm very lucky
just to have you as a friend, like.
98
00:06:50,327 --> 00:06:51,995
- [Ēwe] Yes. Definitely.
- Badass.
99
00:06:54,665 --> 00:06:56,542
(upbeat music)
100
00:07:06,468 --> 00:07:08,637
(music intensifies)
101
00:07:13,225 --> 00:07:15,894
[Pua] The Vans Pipe Masters
is my last event of this year.
102
00:07:16,103 --> 00:07:17,604
I just really want to push myself.
103
00:07:17,771 --> 00:07:22,442
And so I'm gonna work hard to do my best
and overcome some of my fears.
104
00:07:22,609 --> 00:07:25,195
[Megan] Bop bop bop, good.
Breathe now.
105
00:07:25,404 --> 00:07:28,574
{\an8}Blow with your teeth. Shh.
So you hear it.
106
00:07:28,657 --> 00:07:30,784
- [Pua] Shh shh shh shh.
- [Megan] There you go.
107
00:07:30,951 --> 00:07:34,580
Pipe requires you to be mentally strong,
and physically strong.
108
00:07:34,705 --> 00:07:36,331
It's a strong current.
109
00:07:36,415 --> 00:07:40,544
You gotta be able to kick and scratch for
that wave and commit down that face.
110
00:07:41,336 --> 00:07:44,423
You know when you're paddling out at Pipe,
that's how you should be breathing like...
111
00:07:44,506 --> 00:07:46,925
Like (sucks teeth)
112
00:07:47,009 --> 00:07:48,010
- Filling up those lungs with air,
- Yeah
113
00:07:48,093 --> 00:07:50,053
filling up your stomach,
diaphragm with air.
114
00:07:50,387 --> 00:07:52,389
(Pua breathing loudly)
- [Megan] There you go.
115
00:07:52,598 --> 00:07:57,019
- (Pua breathing loudly)
- Attagirl, good job. Break. 30 seconds.
116
00:07:59,062 --> 00:08:01,857
- What are you nervous about?
- My emotions for this event.
117
00:08:02,191 --> 00:08:03,984
- Nervous. Scared.
- Your dad knows what's best for you.
118
00:08:04,067 --> 00:08:06,278
Like no matter what I'm gonna
have the feelings but just like...
119
00:08:07,613 --> 00:08:10,616
- breathing through it I guess and...
- Exactly and that's why we box,
120
00:08:10,699 --> 00:08:12,951
is to let out that aggression
and your nervousness
121
00:08:13,076 --> 00:08:15,287
but breathing through it. 'Cause no
matter what, it's gonna be there.
122
00:08:15,454 --> 00:08:17,247
So where's the,
what's your doubt then?
123
00:08:18,373 --> 00:08:20,417
[high pitched] I dunno
124
00:08:20,626 --> 00:08:22,127
- You're prepared, it's just...
- [Pua] Yeah, I'm prepared.
125
00:08:22,211 --> 00:08:23,921
- It's just my mind.
- It's your mind.
126
00:08:24,213 --> 00:08:26,715
I mean that's where it all
starts mentally, right?
127
00:08:26,798 --> 00:08:28,800
- Yeah.
- Telling yourself that you can.
128
00:08:28,967 --> 00:08:31,011
You are your own worst
enemy and best friend.
129
00:08:31,094 --> 00:08:35,432
Confidence is what you need
to to do anything, right?
130
00:08:35,557 --> 00:08:38,101
- [Pua] Yeah.
- [Megan] But especially surf at Pipe.
131
00:08:38,185 --> 00:08:39,728
- Right?
- Yeah.
132
00:08:39,895 --> 00:08:42,814
And I fully have moments
where I'm just like...
133
00:08:42,940 --> 00:08:43,941
(dramatic music bellows)
134
00:08:44,149 --> 00:08:46,985
Can I even do this?
And it's like yeah you can.
135
00:08:47,653 --> 00:08:49,947
- It excites me.
- [Megan] Give it all, come on.
136
00:08:50,030 --> 00:08:52,658
- (upbeat music)
- (boxing gloves thudding)
137
00:08:57,829 --> 00:09:00,415
What you gonna do? (groans)
Ah! Go knock 'em out.
138
00:09:01,458 --> 00:09:05,254
I think put with her mindset
of how much she wants it
139
00:09:05,337 --> 00:09:08,048
and how hungry she is and
how much I see it in her.
140
00:09:08,257 --> 00:09:12,844
- I think she's ready for Pipe.
- (dramatic music swells)
141
00:09:24,731 --> 00:09:27,150
- (music fades)
- (waves crash)
142
00:09:27,317 --> 00:09:28,694
[Brianna] The waves look super fun.
143
00:09:28,819 --> 00:09:30,529
[Maluhia] I thought it was
gonna be pretty small today.
144
00:09:30,696 --> 00:09:32,698
- [Brianna] Yeah
- I was trying to remember,
145
00:09:32,864 --> 00:09:34,574
{\an8}when was the first time
you surfed up here?
146
00:09:34,992 --> 00:09:38,328
{\an8}I was here with Uncle Max and I was like
"I don't wanna go out, it's too big."
147
00:09:38,412 --> 00:09:42,374
I'll never forget this. And then I see
you walking out with your dad.
148
00:09:42,457 --> 00:09:46,295
He said "They're going",
and I'm like "So, what does that mean?"
149
00:09:46,378 --> 00:09:49,798
So then I ended up going and
then the rest is history.
150
00:09:49,923 --> 00:09:52,718
- (both laughing)
- (uplifitng music)
151
00:09:52,843 --> 00:09:57,597
Malu is the funnest person to call for
big waves because she's like not afraid.
152
00:09:57,848 --> 00:09:58,807
Like she just pumps me up.
153
00:09:58,890 --> 00:10:00,809
And I remember last year we were
towing in together and I was like
154
00:10:00,892 --> 00:10:03,103
"I don't wanna go out here."
And she's like, "We got this".
155
00:10:03,228 --> 00:10:06,106
She's just down.
She's just a powerful warrior.
156
00:10:06,773 --> 00:10:07,899
How's your knee feeling?
157
00:10:07,983 --> 00:10:10,569
Ooh I can walk on my
leg now, which is good.
158
00:10:10,736 --> 00:10:12,696
- Are you doing PT?
- Yes.
159
00:10:12,779 --> 00:10:15,032
Nice. That will help in like
the more you can push it
160
00:10:15,115 --> 00:10:17,951
- and get it ready to surf Pipe.
- Yeah.
161
00:10:18,035 --> 00:10:20,871
- (Brianna laughing)
- Frick, I really wanna surf Pipe.
162
00:10:21,038 --> 00:10:24,833
- [Brianna] I think you're gonna be good.
- I've always been drawn to Pipeline.
163
00:10:25,250 --> 00:10:27,919
That wave has so much
mana and so much power.
164
00:10:28,045 --> 00:10:31,882
If you are able to master
that and match that mana,
165
00:10:32,007 --> 00:10:36,178
it's like the ultimate feeling as a
surfer and the only reason that I surf.
166
00:10:37,220 --> 00:10:39,264
I'm really going with the flow,
and I'm like,
167
00:10:39,348 --> 00:10:41,475
"hey if that's my (speaking Hawaiian),
then that's where I'll go."
168
00:10:41,558 --> 00:10:43,560
- Yeah.
- But trying not to force it.
169
00:10:43,643 --> 00:10:45,062
Yeah, for sure.
170
00:10:45,145 --> 00:10:49,524
I'm an alternate for the Vans Pipe
Masters, so I just have to wait and see.
171
00:10:50,025 --> 00:10:52,611
If Maluhia, she doesn't feel better,
then I'll take that spot.
172
00:10:52,694 --> 00:10:54,988
But, she's a friend,
so I want her to do the contest
173
00:10:55,072 --> 00:10:56,823
but make the right decision for herself.
174
00:10:57,324 --> 00:10:59,493
- [Maluhia] Love you bra.
- [Brianna] Love you too.
175
00:10:59,826 --> 00:11:03,455
(upbeat music)
176
00:11:16,301 --> 00:11:20,680
{\an8}40 Of you men, 20 of
you ladies get to compete.
177
00:11:20,847 --> 00:11:25,018
Great to see you welcoming people from
Australia, Tahiti, Brazil,
178
00:11:25,102 --> 00:11:28,939
Hawaii of course. And the United States.
We'll let the rest take it away.
179
00:11:29,022 --> 00:11:31,483
Have a great night.
All right, thank you.
180
00:11:31,566 --> 00:11:34,319
So we're gonna draw
your names, call you up,
181
00:11:34,444 --> 00:11:39,282
{\an8}and you get to put your name
anywhere on any heat.
182
00:11:39,449 --> 00:11:40,617
- (crowd cheering)
- [Moana] Shoot.
183
00:11:40,700 --> 00:11:43,328
- I don't know which heat I wanna be in.
- You guys are making me nervous.
184
00:11:43,412 --> 00:11:45,288
I am so stressed out.
185
00:11:45,372 --> 00:11:48,792
[Moana] For every other contest,
your heat is assigned to you.
186
00:11:49,167 --> 00:11:52,421
Picking your own heat is
nerve-wracking and scary.
187
00:11:53,463 --> 00:11:57,008
- [Mahina] Bettylou Sakura Johnson.
- (crowd cheers)
188
00:11:57,134 --> 00:12:00,011
- [Mahina] Bettylou!
- It's a pretty big deal to be invited
189
00:12:00,095 --> 00:12:03,140
to the Vans Pipe Masters.
I mean 20 people out of the whole world.
190
00:12:04,307 --> 00:12:05,976
- [Steve] Pua Desoto.
- Ah!
191
00:12:06,143 --> 00:12:08,937
- Heat four, yeah?
- [Moana] What are you gonna do?
192
00:12:09,020 --> 00:12:12,649
- [Pua] I wanna be in your heat.
- (upbeat music)
193
00:12:13,525 --> 00:12:16,236
- (crowd applauding)
- [Mahina] Thank you.
194
00:12:16,528 --> 00:12:20,073
- [Steve] Moana Jones Wong.
- Oh I'm up, I'm finally up.
195
00:12:20,198 --> 00:12:21,950
- (crowd cheering)
- Ah!
196
00:12:22,075 --> 00:12:24,327
- [Mahina] It's official.
- [Steve] All right, heat four.
197
00:12:24,411 --> 00:12:27,080
[Mahina] Women's heat
four is now completed.
198
00:12:27,205 --> 00:12:33,003
Pua Desoto. Moana Jones Wong.
Molly Picklum ans Sierra Kerr.
199
00:12:34,421 --> 00:12:38,008
- [Maluhia] I would wanna be in your heat.
- (crowd applauding)
200
00:12:38,467 --> 00:12:42,721
- [Mahina] Maluhia Kinimaka.
- (crowd cheers)
201
00:12:42,888 --> 00:12:48,226
Uh, I blew my knee out so I have to
withdraw. But I have the alternate's card.
202
00:12:48,310 --> 00:12:51,354
[Mahina] Oh okay.
So we have a withdrawal for a knee injury
203
00:12:51,438 --> 00:12:53,440
and we have the alternate.
204
00:12:53,523 --> 00:12:57,194
- [Maluhia] Yeah, Brianna Cope.
- (crowd applauding)
205
00:12:57,569 --> 00:13:00,822
It's kind of hard when you're training
so vehemently for so long
206
00:13:00,906 --> 00:13:04,451
and then suddenly it's like,
okay Mal, you just gotta take a break.
207
00:13:04,534 --> 00:13:08,246
Like, you just gotta be okay
with being not okay for a little bit.
208
00:13:08,413 --> 00:13:13,668
[Mahina] And that completes our women's
heats one through five. Thank you ladies.
209
00:13:14,252 --> 00:13:18,882
- [Pua] I love you.
- (crowd applauding)
210
00:13:18,965 --> 00:13:21,343
[Maluhia]
It's like just such a gift. (sighs)
211
00:13:23,386 --> 00:13:26,890
And you know when you just get the best
present in the whole world and you're like
212
00:13:26,973 --> 00:13:29,476
"Ah I can't accept this".
Like it's really hard.
213
00:13:30,894 --> 00:13:33,480
I know deep down in my heart
that I'll surf Pipeline whether
214
00:13:33,563 --> 00:13:37,150
it's in a contest or not.
And I'm gonna get that wave.
215
00:13:37,859 --> 00:13:41,446
- Just put her on speaker.
- Okay. Speaker.
216
00:13:43,365 --> 00:13:44,533
- Oh there you are. Hello!
- Ah!
217
00:13:44,616 --> 00:13:48,286
[Brianna] I left my grandma's house
to get on the phone with you guys.
218
00:13:48,370 --> 00:13:49,621
What's the news?
219
00:13:49,704 --> 00:13:51,540
{\an8}[Maluhia] Guess what, bra?
You're in the Pipe Masters.
220
00:13:51,623 --> 00:13:53,124
{\an8}- [Moana] You're in.
- [Brianna] What?
221
00:13:53,208 --> 00:13:54,292
{\an8}- Yeah.
- You got in, 'sista.
222
00:13:54,417 --> 00:13:57,170
I'm like kinda bummed though
cause like honestly
223
00:13:57,254 --> 00:14:01,967
I was like maybe thinking Mal
was gonna (indistinct) I'm like okay.
224
00:14:02,050 --> 00:14:04,761
- [Maluhia] No, no I cannot.
- [Moana] Wave's gonna be like 25 feet.
225
00:14:04,844 --> 00:14:06,930
[Maluhia] I know I cannot.
I'm going to break my legs.
226
00:14:07,013 --> 00:14:08,431
[Brianna] Oh God.
227
00:14:08,515 --> 00:14:12,686
- (rock music)
- The opportunity to surf Pipe is unreal.
228
00:14:13,061 --> 00:14:14,938
It's like dream come true.
We're gonna get barreled
229
00:14:15,021 --> 00:14:16,815
and we're gonna have fun
and we're gonna be with our friends.
230
00:14:17,023 --> 00:14:18,483
[Maluhia] So I think
you're in heat three, yeah?
231
00:14:18,567 --> 00:14:20,443
- [Moana] You're heat three.
- [Brianna] Seriously?
232
00:14:20,694 --> 00:14:24,573
Even though I'm not gonna get to surf,
I'm really happy to see like Brianna go
233
00:14:24,656 --> 00:14:27,075
and and give her best crack at it.
234
00:14:27,158 --> 00:14:29,369
Congrats.
235
00:14:30,912 --> 00:14:33,498
(upbeat music)
236
00:14:39,212 --> 00:14:41,673
Work beats talent when
talent doesn't work hard.
237
00:14:41,881 --> 00:14:44,551
{\an8}And I think that's what got
me to where I am in my career.
238
00:14:44,634 --> 00:14:46,344
I really, really believe in hard work.
239
00:14:48,513 --> 00:14:51,975
To the top!
Let's go!
240
00:14:52,642 --> 00:14:54,978
(intense music)
241
00:14:56,563 --> 00:14:58,607
I'm super excited for this opportunity.
242
00:14:58,982 --> 00:15:00,650
Every time you can go
out and surf Pipeline
243
00:15:00,859 --> 00:15:03,236
with three other females is amazing,
244
00:15:03,486 --> 00:15:06,114
but Pipeline is the most
dangerous wave on the planet.
245
00:15:06,406 --> 00:15:08,116
And the consequences are super high.
246
00:15:10,619 --> 00:15:13,330
Moana really dedicated her
life to surfing Pipeline.
247
00:15:13,538 --> 00:15:15,957
And like Moana's pushing
people on bigger waves.
248
00:15:16,082 --> 00:15:17,626
Everyone's elevating everyone.
249
00:15:17,792 --> 00:15:20,670
So I feel like it's just
fired me up even more.
250
00:15:20,837 --> 00:15:23,590
(music continues)
251
00:15:27,552 --> 00:15:31,598
I feel like I showed up with my briefcase
and I'm ready to work.
252
00:15:31,681 --> 00:15:33,016
So like let's go.
253
00:15:36,978 --> 00:15:39,481
(buoyant music)
254
00:15:40,148 --> 00:15:42,150
[Kiana] Okay. 1, 2, 3.
255
00:15:44,653 --> 00:15:47,572
Pipe is like my dream wave.
256
00:15:48,615 --> 00:15:50,200
This is like my special place.
257
00:15:51,284 --> 00:15:55,372
{\an8}I think like every Pipe contest is just
so emotional for some reason.
258
00:15:55,497 --> 00:15:56,915
{\an8}I don't know why.
259
00:15:56,998 --> 00:15:59,459
{\an8}It is, it's just Pipeline
in general I think.
260
00:15:59,542 --> 00:16:00,752
Yeah.
261
00:16:00,835 --> 00:16:06,174
The only person that I could talk about
like really personal things with, was you.
262
00:16:06,424 --> 00:16:09,511
- Yeah.
- When I started doing good at surfing and
263
00:16:09,594 --> 00:16:13,139
I was like, you know, kind of on top
I felt like everybody was like
264
00:16:13,223 --> 00:16:15,975
- "Oh she's so lucky", like.
- Yeah.
265
00:16:16,101 --> 00:16:18,478
Like I felt like a lot of people thought
I didn't deserve that.
266
00:16:18,645 --> 00:16:19,896
Social media...
Effs everything up.
267
00:16:19,979 --> 00:16:22,190
Yeah social media... Like so many people
were like attacking me
268
00:16:22,357 --> 00:16:24,693
and little did they know like
how much I was struggling.
269
00:16:24,859 --> 00:16:26,361
- And I'm just like,
- Ridiculous.
270
00:16:26,486 --> 00:16:30,031
I think I just let that all get to my
head. Then I just felt like I was like
271
00:16:30,198 --> 00:16:32,534
at the bottom of the ocean like drowning.
272
00:16:32,742 --> 00:16:34,869
It's just crazy 'cause
you were doing so good
273
00:16:34,994 --> 00:16:37,580
at the time like in front
of everybody else's eyes.
274
00:16:37,706 --> 00:16:39,958
- Yeah
- But like behind the scenes it's like
275
00:16:40,083 --> 00:16:43,253
"I just went home and
I'm just like so bummed'.
276
00:16:43,420 --> 00:16:44,587
Yeah.
277
00:16:44,671 --> 00:16:48,842
I think a lot of people struggle with
not believing in themselves.
278
00:16:49,259 --> 00:16:52,262
Being an athlete is not fun at times.
279
00:16:52,429 --> 00:16:55,807
It really messes with your
head, it messes with your mood.
280
00:16:55,890 --> 00:17:00,603
It just like takes you on this crazy
roller coaster ride of emotions.
281
00:17:00,854 --> 00:17:06,151
I really feel like Pipeline
lifted me to my feet and like
282
00:17:06,234 --> 00:17:11,114
gave me everything I've ever wanted and
could ever dream about and more.
283
00:17:11,197 --> 00:17:15,160
I wouldn't be the person I am
at all right now without this wave.
284
00:17:15,660 --> 00:17:19,664
It just feels like it's not even a wave.
It feels like it's alive, you know.
285
00:17:19,831 --> 00:17:22,584
- Woo! Goosebumps with my hair.
- (Moana laughing)
286
00:17:22,751 --> 00:17:26,004
I'm serious!
I mean I'm excited for you.
287
00:17:26,129 --> 00:17:29,507
And the funny thing is you're more excited
than you are scared or anything.
288
00:17:29,591 --> 00:17:33,344
- I'm scared that I'm so excited though.
- (waves lapping the shore)
289
00:17:34,512 --> 00:17:37,432
(enchanting music)
290
00:17:53,573 --> 00:17:56,826
{\an8}(conch shells honking)
291
00:17:58,787 --> 00:18:02,540
{\an8}(ethereal music)
292
00:18:04,793 --> 00:18:10,006
[Pau] My family has done opening and
closing ceremonies for the events.
293
00:18:10,089 --> 00:18:11,674
It's just really special.
294
00:18:12,675 --> 00:18:14,844
All of the surfers competing in the event,
295
00:18:15,053 --> 00:18:17,722
surfers who aren't competing
come join us over here.
296
00:18:18,681 --> 00:18:19,682
{\an8}We're gonna be offering
297
00:18:19,766 --> 00:18:24,145
{\an8}(speaking in Hawaiian)
or gifts of offering that we prepared
298
00:18:24,270 --> 00:18:27,315
for our ancestors and our
(speaking in Hawaiian) and the ocean.
299
00:18:28,650 --> 00:18:32,362
(singing in foreign language)
300
00:18:39,285 --> 00:18:42,205
(enchanting music)
301
00:18:47,085 --> 00:18:50,797
(waves lapping on the shore)
302
00:18:52,215 --> 00:18:54,801
[Pua] The blessing does connect me
a little bit more to the ocean
303
00:18:54,884 --> 00:18:58,513
um, but I think like even with that
there's still more connecting to do.
304
00:18:59,013 --> 00:19:01,391
(waves crashing)
305
00:19:01,516 --> 00:19:06,020
My family does so much for me.
There's a lot of sacrifice.
306
00:19:06,104 --> 00:19:08,147
I know it and I feel it.
307
00:19:10,650 --> 00:19:12,819
I really want to make them proud of me.
308
00:19:15,655 --> 00:19:17,574
(music fades)
309
00:19:21,536 --> 00:19:23,705
(upbeat music)
310
00:19:26,666 --> 00:19:27,500
[announcer] Welcome to the Pipeline.
311
00:19:27,667 --> 00:19:33,047
{\an8}We are excited to kick off the women's
portion of the Vans Pipe Masters.
312
00:19:33,756 --> 00:19:35,550
(upbeat music continues)
313
00:19:40,138 --> 00:19:43,141
Women surfing at Pipe
competitively is pretty new.
314
00:19:43,224 --> 00:19:45,226
There's so much talent here today.
315
00:19:45,351 --> 00:19:47,604
We have men and women
in the same conditions.
316
00:19:47,854 --> 00:19:52,108
{\an8}It's never really been something
that has been done at Pipe in competition.
317
00:19:55,278 --> 00:19:59,824
I think it's gonna be pretty historical
in terms of women surfing at Pipeline.
318
00:19:59,991 --> 00:20:02,327
{\an8}And so I'm making all my friends
319
00:20:02,410 --> 00:20:04,913
{\an8}these little things called
(speaking in Hawaiian).
320
00:20:04,996 --> 00:20:08,708
They're like just little
pieces of ti leaf that are spun
321
00:20:08,791 --> 00:20:12,670
together and they're like
a symbol of protection.
322
00:20:12,795 --> 00:20:17,550
Because I think a lot of them are pretty
nervous right now and rightfully so.
323
00:20:22,096 --> 00:20:25,350
We had a very challenging surf forecast
for this event period.
324
00:20:26,351 --> 00:20:28,311
So we have these shifting winds,
325
00:20:28,436 --> 00:20:32,982
it makes the waves a little bit fluffy.
It makes them, the barrel not so open.
326
00:20:33,107 --> 00:20:35,193
And when you couple that
with a peaking swell
327
00:20:35,276 --> 00:20:39,906
of about 12 to 15 feet or 30 foot faces.
It's radical.
328
00:20:39,989 --> 00:20:43,409
- (waves crashing)
- (dramatic music bellows)
329
00:20:44,243 --> 00:20:46,204
[Christina]
It looks good out there for you.
330
00:20:46,287 --> 00:20:48,748
I just wanna get a mental one.
Just one good wave.
331
00:20:48,831 --> 00:20:49,916
Yeah.
332
00:20:50,124 --> 00:20:52,877
I think everyone's really
nervous and high energy because
333
00:20:53,044 --> 00:20:56,255
it's bombing out there. It's dangerous.
We're seeing the men get hurt and
334
00:20:56,339 --> 00:20:58,383
it's definitely a day of high consequence.
335
00:20:59,467 --> 00:21:02,470
(waves roaring)
336
00:21:02,595 --> 00:21:05,556
Even just a few years ago they wouldn't
have put the women out in this condition.
337
00:21:05,723 --> 00:21:08,810
{\an8}So I think it's gonna push a lot of us.
It's gonna uplift a lot of us,
338
00:21:08,893 --> 00:21:10,478
{\an8}and it's gonna inspire a lot of us.
339
00:21:11,312 --> 00:21:13,982
(intense music)
340
00:21:15,566 --> 00:21:18,611
(waves roaring)
341
00:21:18,695 --> 00:21:23,157
{\an8}- Looks really gnarly. Sketchy, heavy.
- Yeah. Yeah. I would be scared.
342
00:21:23,241 --> 00:21:26,035
Yeah, I'd be scared
watching you out there.
343
00:21:26,828 --> 00:21:29,580
- (waves crashing)
- (dramatic music bellows)
344
00:21:32,709 --> 00:21:34,919
- And you'll believe in yourself-
- Yep.
345
00:21:35,003 --> 00:21:37,714
- Okay?
- [Brianna] Maluhia made me this.
346
00:21:38,047 --> 00:21:39,173
Aw.
347
00:21:40,800 --> 00:21:45,888
{\an8}- [Brianna] Love you guys.
- (indistinct chatter)
348
00:21:46,264 --> 00:21:48,683
All right Brianna, get it.
349
00:21:50,893 --> 00:21:54,230
[announcer] 20 women, and the unique
thing about this year's scoring is
350
00:21:54,355 --> 00:21:58,860
competitors keep their scores in both
round one and round two.
351
00:21:58,943 --> 00:22:02,071
{\an8}And then we'll look for the top four
for the ultimate final.
352
00:22:02,989 --> 00:22:05,533
For this competition, they're looking
for a combination of things.
353
00:22:05,616 --> 00:22:08,453
They're looking for barrels,
they're looking for airs and
354
00:22:08,536 --> 00:22:09,996
they're looking for turns.
355
00:22:10,079 --> 00:22:12,749
Instead of scoring it
from a 1 to 10 scale,
356
00:22:12,832 --> 00:22:17,170
they're scoring it from 1 to 30.
30 being the excellent score.
357
00:22:18,504 --> 00:22:19,630
(horn blowing)
358
00:22:19,714 --> 00:22:22,008
[announcer] Sound of the horn,
heat three is on.
359
00:22:23,843 --> 00:22:26,637
{\an8}[announcer 2] Here we go, we got some
takers both on the left and the right.
360
00:22:27,972 --> 00:22:30,641
(crowd yelling)
361
00:22:32,393 --> 00:22:34,604
That's okay, she got a spot, got a wave.
362
00:22:34,854 --> 00:22:37,106
[announcer] We've got wave scores, Rock.
Here we go.
363
00:22:37,190 --> 00:22:41,986
Brianna Cope in the orange jersey.
A 2.7 out of a possible 30.
364
00:22:42,070 --> 00:22:45,281
[announcer 2] That is blue
Bettylou Sakura Johnson,
365
00:22:45,531 --> 00:22:48,910
"Shreddylou" in the barrel
coming out, and she does!
366
00:22:49,035 --> 00:22:53,581
[announcer] Out of a possible 30,
scores a 24.0!
367
00:22:53,748 --> 00:22:59,045
Surfer in white, Caitlin Simmers stalling,
covered, barrel, there she is!
368
00:22:59,128 --> 00:23:04,300
Score that for the young 15 year old.
A 21.5 out of a possible 30.
369
00:23:04,383 --> 00:23:05,843
[announcer 2]
Yeah and with that wave she moves up
370
00:23:05,927 --> 00:23:08,012
to number two behind Carissa Moore.
371
00:23:08,179 --> 00:23:12,517
{\an8}- [Christina] Go Bri. Go, go, go.
- (unintelligible chatter)
372
00:23:12,725 --> 00:23:15,061
{\an8}[announcer 2] Uh, in red, Brianna Cope.
373
00:23:15,144 --> 00:23:17,271
[announcer] Brianna with
a carve on the forehead.
374
00:23:17,396 --> 00:23:19,816
Time straightens out a big
wall of water right there.
375
00:23:19,899 --> 00:23:25,279
{\an8}Probably a good idea not to attempt much
in that very shallow section here.
376
00:23:25,363 --> 00:23:27,907
- [announcer] 3, 2, 1.
- (horn blows)
377
00:23:29,075 --> 00:23:31,619
Sound of the horn ends heat number three.
378
00:23:32,703 --> 00:23:34,580
(upbeat music)
379
00:23:35,081 --> 00:23:37,583
[Christina] She's coming
in with a smile on her face.
380
00:23:38,042 --> 00:23:40,044
- She has a fan.
- [Christina] Yeah she does.
381
00:23:40,169 --> 00:23:42,130
[Gabi] Yeah, she's like
everybody's favorite.
382
00:23:42,296 --> 00:23:47,135
I kind of want to go fan girl her too.
You survived, are you kidding me?
383
00:23:47,218 --> 00:23:49,345
- I'm so proud of you.
- I felt kinda confident on the last one,
384
00:23:49,428 --> 00:23:52,890
I was hoping I was gonna barrel.
It was actually super fun.
385
00:23:53,057 --> 00:23:55,893
Just to get the like nerves out.
'Cause I was super scared before so
386
00:23:56,018 --> 00:23:57,562
just to get a couple waves, I had fun.
387
00:23:57,687 --> 00:23:59,730
Time to get ready to get
bigger scores tomorrow.
388
00:23:59,814 --> 00:24:01,149
That's just a warmup heat.
389
00:24:02,066 --> 00:24:03,860
(music crescendos)
390
00:24:04,861 --> 00:24:08,197
{\an8}Aw, you're the sweetest.
They're so cute.
391
00:24:08,281 --> 00:24:10,491
{\an8}I know they're little.
I was like there's no way
392
00:24:10,616 --> 00:24:12,785
I'm gonna let them go out
there right now without them.
393
00:24:12,952 --> 00:24:15,705
- (waves booming)
- [Maluhia] That's scary.
394
00:24:16,831 --> 00:24:20,626
I'm like so nervous and so excited,
so jittery and so ah!
395
00:24:20,751 --> 00:24:23,004
I bet once you go, once you
go you'll be fine, you know?
396
00:24:23,171 --> 00:24:25,882
I think so too.
I think once I like get wet, and just.
397
00:24:26,883 --> 00:24:28,509
(waves crashing in distance)
398
00:24:30,595 --> 00:24:32,263
- Love you.
- Love you too.
399
00:24:32,722 --> 00:24:35,808
- (unintelligible announcer chatter)
- (someone whistles)
400
00:24:37,476 --> 00:24:41,314
Everybody in this contest is nervous so.
That's okay to be nervous.
401
00:24:42,648 --> 00:24:45,067
(crowd cheering)
402
00:24:47,028 --> 00:24:48,279
Proud of you.
403
00:24:51,240 --> 00:24:53,910
{\an8}Super excited that she's
following in my footsteps
404
00:24:53,993 --> 00:24:57,455
{\an8}and really wants me there with her.
405
00:24:57,622 --> 00:25:01,751
I mean that's, it's a gift. My daughter's
17 years old and coming out to Pipe.
406
00:25:01,876 --> 00:25:04,378
That's amazing.
Have fun.
407
00:25:05,630 --> 00:25:07,215
(gentle music)
408
00:25:07,673 --> 00:25:10,676
I don't want her to get hurt.
So I want her to just go out there and...
409
00:25:11,886 --> 00:25:13,554
keep her safety as a priority.
410
00:25:14,972 --> 00:25:17,475
That's more important than
anything else right now.
411
00:25:19,310 --> 00:25:21,812
(intense music)
412
00:25:22,813 --> 00:25:24,607
[Pua] I think I'm gonna have
to get my jitters off early.
413
00:25:24,690 --> 00:25:29,403
So even if it's a small wave, just go and
get that off and then just keep surfing.
414
00:25:29,570 --> 00:25:32,240
(intense music)
415
00:25:34,742 --> 00:25:38,079
Now that I see the conditions,
it's like pretty dangerous.
416
00:25:38,246 --> 00:25:41,791
{\an8}So I think going out
there not having surfed
417
00:25:41,874 --> 00:25:43,793
{\an8}or having the right
training for five weeks
418
00:25:43,918 --> 00:25:46,504
would've just been the
stupidest thing I've ever done.
419
00:25:49,840 --> 00:25:51,133
(horn blows)
420
00:25:51,259 --> 00:25:53,719
[announcer] Alright let's go!
Round 1 Heat 4.
421
00:25:53,803 --> 00:25:56,764
{\an8}[announcer 2] This is a heat.
This is quite the heat.
422
00:25:56,931 --> 00:26:00,309
[announcer 3] This could be an iconic
day, uh, for women's surfing.
423
00:26:02,311 --> 00:26:03,646
{\an8}- Oh stand by.
- (crowd murmuring)
424
00:26:04,855 --> 00:26:11,112
- [announcer] Moana attacking it.
- (intense chanting music)
425
00:26:19,662 --> 00:26:21,539
Oh that was heavy.
426
00:26:21,664 --> 00:26:27,086
[announcer 2] Just a little too deep
but man, what an incredible job charging.
427
00:26:28,587 --> 00:26:33,134
- (water rushing)
- (intense music)
428
00:26:34,760 --> 00:26:37,430
- [announcer] Is Moana okay?
- [announcer 2] She hasn't paddled yet.
429
00:26:37,555 --> 00:26:40,766
You see the water patrol
coming in to check on her.
430
00:26:44,103 --> 00:26:46,272
{\an8}Saw her sort of shake
her head a little bit.
431
00:26:49,900 --> 00:26:52,653
- (waves crashing)
- (dramatic bellow)
432
00:26:54,697 --> 00:26:58,909
- Ah, geez. I think she hurt herself.
- Yeah it looks like it.
433
00:27:03,789 --> 00:27:07,501
[Maluhia] Pipeline is incredibly dangerous
because if you fall in the impact zone
434
00:27:07,585 --> 00:27:10,671
or if you're getting cleaned
out by a wave after you've fallen
435
00:27:10,755 --> 00:27:15,301
it's maybe two feet on a hard stabby reef.
It's scary.
436
00:27:16,344 --> 00:27:21,098
[announcer] That end section
is just so shallow and it sucks so dry.
437
00:27:23,934 --> 00:27:28,022
Yeah she might have hit the bottom.
The queen of Pipeline.
438
00:27:28,397 --> 00:27:33,361
- (solemn piano music)
- (waves crashing)
439
00:27:33,444 --> 00:27:35,654
She pulled in, she was
traveling in the barrel
440
00:27:35,738 --> 00:27:40,785
and it just was kind of going too quick
so it kind of clamped down on her.
441
00:27:40,910 --> 00:27:43,704
And all that water and all that force.
442
00:27:44,705 --> 00:27:46,999
It can kind of compression stun you.
443
00:27:47,750 --> 00:27:52,004
That was a pretty solid wave.
So she probably got rattled.
444
00:27:52,296 --> 00:27:55,216
[announcer 3] 11.3 out of a possible 30.
445
00:27:55,383 --> 00:27:59,261
Well Moana Jones Wong has now
moved up into the top four.
446
00:27:59,345 --> 00:28:04,141
[announcer] Pua still looking for her
first wave as she remains in last place.
447
00:28:04,266 --> 00:28:05,935
[Duane] Oh boy.
448
00:28:06,560 --> 00:28:10,356
[announcer 2] With 3:40 to go
should have enough time to get one and
449
00:28:10,439 --> 00:28:12,024
maybe get one back out there.
450
00:28:12,316 --> 00:28:14,485
[announcer] Puamakamae not
with the wave score right now,
451
00:28:14,568 --> 00:28:15,861
but the young 17 year old...
452
00:28:15,986 --> 00:28:18,781
She could catch a wave and
move up in the second place
453
00:28:18,864 --> 00:28:21,492
even into first place,
because of the 30 points possible.
454
00:28:23,411 --> 00:28:27,289
Time check. 50 seconds remaining.
50 seconds counting down.
455
00:28:27,373 --> 00:28:29,125
[Duane] Ah man.
456
00:28:30,042 --> 00:28:33,129
(music intensifies)
457
00:28:33,337 --> 00:28:38,592
[announcer] Here's the
countdown. 5, 4, 3, 2, 1.
458
00:28:38,717 --> 00:28:40,177
(horn blowing)
459
00:28:40,261 --> 00:28:44,056
Sound of the horn rounds out heat four
of the women's round one.
460
00:28:44,223 --> 00:28:46,267
- She tried.
- (crowd muttering)
461
00:28:46,434 --> 00:28:49,103
(crowd cheering)
462
00:28:49,228 --> 00:28:52,106
- [Pua] I really wanted to get one.
- Next time.
463
00:28:55,484 --> 00:28:58,446
[Pua] My score at the end
of this heat was solid zero.
464
00:28:58,529 --> 00:29:01,699
I did not catch one wave.
And I actually missed two
465
00:29:01,824 --> 00:29:04,994
really good waves in the beginning.
I was like waiting for that one.
466
00:29:05,077 --> 00:29:08,122
And in 30 minutes sometimes
that one doesn't come.
467
00:29:08,205 --> 00:29:12,126
And so I think, you know, remembering that
going into my next heat is just surf.
468
00:29:12,209 --> 00:29:17,006
It's all right.
Reset for tomorrow, yeah?
469
00:29:18,674 --> 00:29:23,262
It literally feels like I just got punched
by like a 300 pound person in the stomach.
470
00:29:23,471 --> 00:29:26,182
'Cause I know you're freaking tough
and you don't like buckle.
471
00:29:26,348 --> 00:29:28,601
No there's like no way I could have
caught like another wave.
472
00:29:28,726 --> 00:29:31,729
- [Maluhia] No, yeah.
- But I tried one more pump and it just
473
00:29:31,854 --> 00:29:34,940
{\an8}- bottomed out completely.
- You hit bottom.
474
00:29:35,024 --> 00:29:37,485
{\an8}- [Moana] I slammed bottom.
- [Maluhia] So gnarly.
475
00:29:37,568 --> 00:29:39,904
And I just like knocked
out. I literally knocked out.
476
00:29:40,321 --> 00:29:43,491
- You hit that hard.
- I hit that hard that I just knocked out.
477
00:29:43,657 --> 00:29:48,287
- I don't know, it hurts super, superbad.
- Maybe go see the guys in the tent.
478
00:29:48,370 --> 00:29:49,663
Yeah, maybe.
479
00:29:51,832 --> 00:29:56,170
(groans)I can't breathe like
big breaths. It hurts.
480
00:29:57,129 --> 00:29:59,965
She did sustain a pretty bad wipe out.
481
00:30:00,132 --> 00:30:05,596
{\an8}She is not even sure if she hit the the
water or the reef or something flat.
482
00:30:06,180 --> 00:30:09,558
We're gonna evaluate for a concussion
and we're gonna see if
483
00:30:09,642 --> 00:30:12,520
she's gonna be able to
surf again tomorrow or not.
484
00:30:13,604 --> 00:30:16,273
(intense music)
485
00:30:19,318 --> 00:30:21,779
(somber music)
486
00:30:23,739 --> 00:30:26,575
[Maluhia] Watching Moana's
heat was really scary.
487
00:30:27,409 --> 00:30:31,497
I've seen this wave take out so many
people no matter their skill level.
488
00:30:31,622 --> 00:30:35,251
And when I saw Moana get hurt
being one of the best in the world,
489
00:30:35,334 --> 00:30:38,379
I knew I made the right
decision to not surf Pipe.
490
00:30:38,504 --> 00:30:40,339
I think in terms of
like a healing process,
491
00:30:40,464 --> 00:30:44,343
I think I should be able to surf when
I'm back to full health and wellbeing.
492
00:30:45,219 --> 00:30:48,889
I know for sure that this is not the end
of my surfing career. Um...
493
00:30:49,723 --> 00:30:53,060
Is it the end of my goal of
trying to be on the world tour?
494
00:30:53,185 --> 00:30:57,815
Maybe, I don't know.
I wanna be able to surf forever, you know.
495
00:30:59,316 --> 00:31:01,819
- Aloha Cliff, how's it going?
- (speaking foreign language).
496
00:31:01,986 --> 00:31:03,612
{\an8}Right now it's like fellowship season.
497
00:31:03,737 --> 00:31:06,282
{\an8}The ASU application I've
kind of been neglecting
498
00:31:06,407 --> 00:31:08,450
{\an8}because of the fellowship applications.
499
00:31:08,576 --> 00:31:10,995
I'll be working on that
through the comp season.
500
00:31:11,161 --> 00:31:14,081
Cool. I think if you can get
those applications in
501
00:31:14,248 --> 00:31:17,376
to the fellowships and then
also to the PhD program
502
00:31:17,459 --> 00:31:21,714
and then also we're gonna
just need some writing from you.
503
00:31:21,839 --> 00:31:25,217
I've worked to raise
awareness about how coral reef
504
00:31:25,342 --> 00:31:27,386
affects some of the world's
greatest surf breaks.
505
00:31:27,511 --> 00:31:31,056
And how integral it is that we
as surfers protect our arena.
506
00:31:31,223 --> 00:31:32,850
That gives us a platform.
507
00:31:33,017 --> 00:31:36,478
[Cliff] If you can start to think about
and lean into some of the technology
508
00:31:36,562 --> 00:31:39,064
and actually building some of this stuff.
509
00:31:39,148 --> 00:31:40,899
Yeah, that would be awesome.
510
00:31:41,108 --> 00:31:46,280
I think I've been able to find a lot of
really good things from being injured.
511
00:31:46,447 --> 00:31:48,824
And it might've actually been
the little bit of a break
512
00:31:48,991 --> 00:31:50,743
that I needed to focus on my PhD.
513
00:31:51,243 --> 00:31:54,038
- [Cliff] Right on, mahalo.
- All right. Mahalo Cliff, Thank you.
514
00:31:54,121 --> 00:31:54,997
[both] Aloha.
515
00:31:57,124 --> 00:31:59,335
(gentle music)
516
00:32:08,093 --> 00:32:10,846
(rain pattering)
517
00:32:10,929 --> 00:32:12,514
[coach] I don't know
about how much sunshine
518
00:32:12,640 --> 00:32:15,726
there's gonna be today.
Storm's supposed to be coming to Hawaii.
519
00:32:18,270 --> 00:32:20,648
This is tough. You know,
even for the people at home
520
00:32:20,731 --> 00:32:25,653
maybe expecting to see 10 foot Pipe,
massive spins and barrels.
521
00:32:25,736 --> 00:32:28,238
It's definitely not that today.
522
00:32:28,364 --> 00:32:32,493
[Pua's Dad] It is a lot smaller
than yesterday and a lot slower.
523
00:32:34,244 --> 00:32:35,412
[announcer 3]
(indistinct) counting an 8.2-
524
00:32:35,496 --> 00:32:37,539
- All right, find some good ones today.
- [announcer 3 continues] And a 10.9.
525
00:32:37,665 --> 00:32:39,541
I'm gonna look for one. I'm just gonna
get a sick backdoor. That's all I want.
526
00:32:39,833 --> 00:32:41,168
[announcer]
You know, fully exited barrel...
527
00:32:41,293 --> 00:32:42,419
Okay, good luck.
528
00:32:43,587 --> 00:32:46,423
[Brianna] This is my
last chance to improve my two scores
529
00:32:46,507 --> 00:32:49,593
and to make the final. I'm in the middle
of the pack for the rankings.
530
00:32:49,677 --> 00:32:51,887
{\an8}Everyone's really close
actually the to the top four.
531
00:32:52,012 --> 00:32:53,806
{\an8}I think like all of us
need a really small score,
532
00:32:53,889 --> 00:32:58,352
which is like one turn or one
little barrel. We're all so close.
533
00:32:58,435 --> 00:33:01,814
So I think that's why, like, the game face
is a little more on today.
534
00:33:03,190 --> 00:33:10,489
[announcer 4] $100,000 up for first prize.
This historic 2022 Vans Pipe Masters.
535
00:33:11,448 --> 00:33:17,162
- [Christina] This is exciting.
- [announcer] 5, 4, 3, 2, 1.
536
00:33:17,454 --> 00:33:18,956
(horn blows)
537
00:33:19,540 --> 00:33:22,418
- [Christina] Here we go.
- Come on, sis.
538
00:33:22,751 --> 00:33:24,336
{\an8}- (dramatic crescendo)
539
00:33:25,838 --> 00:33:28,716
{\an8}- Go, Bri, go.
- [announcer] There she goes.
540
00:33:28,799 --> 00:33:30,426
{\an8}Oh, go Brianna.
541
00:33:30,509 --> 00:33:33,971
[announcer 2] Driving that board
straight into a barrel.
542
00:33:34,513 --> 00:33:36,348
- (music intensifies)
- (Gabi groans)
543
00:33:36,974 --> 00:33:39,810
[announcer 3] Brianna Cope,
your last score now in at a 9.9...
544
00:33:39,893 --> 00:33:41,687
- Oh higher than I thought.
- [announcer 3] Number nine.
545
00:33:41,937 --> 00:33:43,939
[announcer 4] Brianna and Tyler
on the outside looking in.
546
00:33:44,022 --> 00:33:46,984
They need those top scores
in order to make it to the finals.
547
00:33:47,067 --> 00:33:49,278
[announcer 3] There we go Tyler Wright.
548
00:33:49,403 --> 00:33:53,741
Gettin' on the board, getting the mojo
flowin'. Wow! That was committed.
549
00:33:53,907 --> 00:33:58,370
[announcer] And that ride right
there catapults her into the top four
550
00:33:58,662 --> 00:34:00,914
holding on to that fourth spot.
551
00:34:01,582 --> 00:34:02,458
- Here we go, here we go.
- You go Bri.
552
00:34:02,541 --> 00:34:04,209
- Go, Bri.
- [Gabi] Send it.
553
00:34:05,169 --> 00:34:08,714
(intense drumming music)
554
00:34:08,881 --> 00:34:12,801
[announcer] Here goes Brianna Cope on a
runner extending down the line...
555
00:34:13,010 --> 00:34:15,053
- [crowd] Oh!
- [announcer] ...Oh! Shut down.
556
00:34:15,137 --> 00:34:16,722
It's all right. Get back up, get back up.
557
00:34:17,556 --> 00:34:20,768
[announcer 4] 30 seconds left.
Will we see a miracle?
558
00:34:20,976 --> 00:34:24,062
Come on Bri.
Does it say she needs a 13.8?
559
00:34:24,146 --> 00:34:27,024
- Yeah.
- She only needs a 13.8.
560
00:34:27,775 --> 00:34:29,359
(intense music)
561
00:34:29,985 --> 00:34:33,489
- You go, Bri. Come on.
- Oh! Go Bri! Come on. Come on.
562
00:34:35,282 --> 00:34:37,409
(music continues)
563
00:34:37,618 --> 00:34:39,536
[announcer]
We'll see who has what it takes
564
00:34:39,620 --> 00:34:42,164
to solidify their place in the finals.
565
00:34:42,247 --> 00:34:44,917
Brianna cope gets caught yet again
566
00:34:45,000 --> 00:34:48,420
behind another wall of
water and doesn't make it out.
567
00:34:51,673 --> 00:34:54,134
- Man.
- Good effort.
568
00:34:54,218 --> 00:34:56,887
- Yeah.
- (gentle music plays)
569
00:34:57,679 --> 00:35:00,224
[announcer 4] Yeah, unfortunately Brianna
just having some bad luck.
570
00:35:00,307 --> 00:35:04,394
She looked good on her on her boards
and she seemed like she was surfing well.
571
00:35:04,478 --> 00:35:06,730
It just didn't really pan out for her.
572
00:35:09,316 --> 00:35:10,943
Wish I would've made the
final and that's why I was so
573
00:35:11,068 --> 00:35:14,029
aggressive on that last wave 'cause,
like, there's a hundred K on the line.
574
00:35:14,363 --> 00:35:16,865
But I think I improved from
yesterday's performance.
575
00:35:18,826 --> 00:35:20,035
Ah, I'm tired.
576
00:35:20,369 --> 00:35:23,539
Yesterday was definitely a
historical female event because
577
00:35:23,622 --> 00:35:25,165
I think a few years ago
they wouldn't have ran
578
00:35:25,249 --> 00:35:27,501
the women out in this
condition in big waves.
579
00:35:28,418 --> 00:35:30,170
I'm not upset. It was really fun.
580
00:35:30,254 --> 00:35:33,715
I wish I would've made the final but,
got to pack a couple one ways.
581
00:35:35,551 --> 00:35:37,761
(gentle music fades)
582
00:35:39,304 --> 00:35:41,807
(upbeat music)
583
00:35:43,016 --> 00:35:48,021
{\an8}I feel very beat up right now.
I feel like I was in a car accident.
584
00:35:48,146 --> 00:35:52,442
{\an8}Everything on my body's hurting,
from the top of my head to my toes.
585
00:35:52,526 --> 00:35:55,863
But, there's no way that
I'm not gonna surf my heat.
586
00:35:55,946 --> 00:35:57,573
As a competitor, you just have to
587
00:35:57,656 --> 00:36:00,617
keep overcoming every
obstacle that's thrown at you.
588
00:36:02,035 --> 00:36:03,829
Clear your mind, stay clear.
589
00:36:03,954 --> 00:36:06,415
And when you commit,
go with one way or the other.
590
00:36:06,498 --> 00:36:09,251
Don't split your brain into two like,
"Oh, maybe I should go right,
591
00:36:09,334 --> 00:36:11,336
- maybe I should go left", like...
- Look and go.
592
00:36:11,420 --> 00:36:14,089
- Yes.
- Yesterday I did not catch any waves
593
00:36:14,381 --> 00:36:16,967
but making the final
four is still achievable.
594
00:36:17,175 --> 00:36:19,761
Even with a zero in your score line.
You only need two waves.
595
00:36:20,178 --> 00:36:23,015
{\an8}Now I just gotta go out there and really
perform and push myself and surf.
596
00:36:25,225 --> 00:36:27,144
[Moana] It all depends
on the ocean at this point.
597
00:36:27,269 --> 00:36:29,563
Like I just need to be in the
right place at the right time
598
00:36:29,688 --> 00:36:32,482
and just hope that I can
get another good wave
599
00:36:32,608 --> 00:36:33,984
and make it to the final.
600
00:36:35,360 --> 00:36:38,739
[announcer] Counting down the next heat.
3, 2, 1.
601
00:36:39,323 --> 00:36:40,949
- (horn blows)
[announcer] Sound of the horn!
602
00:36:41,033 --> 00:36:43,911
- Heat four is on.
- [Maluhia] Go, Moana!
603
00:36:44,077 --> 00:36:48,290
{\an8}[announcer 2] First live action of the
heat. Moana Jones-Wong going backhand...
604
00:36:48,373 --> 00:36:49,958
on the righted back door...
605
00:36:50,125 --> 00:36:51,668
[announcer 4] She knows how
to do it too, on the right.
606
00:36:51,752 --> 00:36:53,378
I seen her gettin' so shacked.
607
00:36:53,462 --> 00:36:56,590
[announcer 2]
Shoo bruh! She's shredding off the top.
608
00:36:56,673 --> 00:36:58,300
[announcer 4] Her vibe is so sick.
609
00:36:59,176 --> 00:37:01,094
{\an8}(upbeat music)
610
00:37:02,429 --> 00:37:05,182
[announcer 4]
Pua gettin' her campaign started
611
00:37:05,265 --> 00:37:07,476
and some mojo flowin'
out there this morning.
612
00:37:07,893 --> 00:37:10,562
(crowd hooting)
613
00:37:11,730 --> 00:37:14,483
[announcer 4] Wow. Gotta get moving,
that's what we're talking about.
614
00:37:14,608 --> 00:37:16,485
- [announcer 2] Oh no! Oh!
- Oh my God!
615
00:37:16,735 --> 00:37:21,365
[announcer 3] Oh that wave, nasty. Look
she broke her board... cha-check 'em.
616
00:37:21,448 --> 00:37:23,951
Smoked!
It's gonna pop up with two pieces.
617
00:37:24,242 --> 00:37:25,619
Had a run! I mean, come on.
618
00:37:25,702 --> 00:37:29,331
Pua just packed a barrel
and broke her board.
619
00:37:29,456 --> 00:37:31,333
So, we're getting a board ready.
620
00:37:32,459 --> 00:37:35,879
[coach] Pua's ride was incredible.
She took off in the right spot.
621
00:37:35,963 --> 00:37:38,382
She just hit a little weird bobble
and it got weird.
622
00:37:40,092 --> 00:37:41,009
(intense music)
623
00:37:41,885 --> 00:37:43,762
[announcer] Let's go!
This looks beautiful.
624
00:37:43,845 --> 00:37:46,390
[announcer 4] Oh yeah. All right, Moana.
625
00:37:46,556 --> 00:37:48,141
- Go, Moana, nice one!
- Oh, nice one.
626
00:37:48,850 --> 00:37:52,646
[announcer 2] Go, go... Aww no...
627
00:37:56,274 --> 00:37:58,610
Oh, board. Thrashed.
628
00:37:58,735 --> 00:38:00,988
{\an8}- Moana's board just broke.
- [Tehotu] Hers too?
629
00:38:01,071 --> 00:38:04,241
- Yeah.
- [coach] It's not a forgiving wave.
630
00:38:05,367 --> 00:38:07,869
[Moana] I'm like gassed
and I grab my board
631
00:38:07,953 --> 00:38:10,622
and I'm like trying to
paddle out as fast as I can.
632
00:38:11,248 --> 00:38:13,208
{\an8}Moana's gotta get
out there for one more wave.
633
00:38:13,750 --> 00:38:16,712
{\an8}[announcer 2] There we go.
Splitting the peak. Pua going left.
634
00:38:17,754 --> 00:38:21,299
- [announcer 2] Oh!
- [Dawson] Eh, see Pua, come on.
635
00:38:22,342 --> 00:38:25,721
Next one, next one, get in line.
This is yours babe. This is yours!
636
00:38:25,804 --> 00:38:31,601
[announcer] Sierra Kerr, going for it.
Long wall ahead. Still going!
637
00:38:31,810 --> 00:38:36,023
Oh, she comes out! Oh my! What a ride!
638
00:38:38,734 --> 00:38:42,112
We'll take a look at the replay here,
and just to make it official,
639
00:38:42,195 --> 00:38:45,615
Sierra Kerr does drop in
on Puamakamae DeSoto.
640
00:38:45,741 --> 00:38:49,327
Pua was in the prime position, you know,
Sierra Kerr should've looked back.
641
00:38:49,411 --> 00:38:50,912
And that wave is not gonna count.
642
00:38:50,996 --> 00:38:52,497
[announcer 2]
Yeah, that's, that's unfortunate.
643
00:38:52,622 --> 00:38:56,084
- (horn blows)
- [announcer 2] Ah, I love this.
644
00:38:56,209 --> 00:38:58,170
That's what you're
looking for right there.
645
00:38:58,336 --> 00:39:01,465
[announcer 4] And that's it.
Moana and Pua looked good out there,
646
00:39:01,548 --> 00:39:06,053
but just didn't do quite enough to
get into the top four to make the finals.
647
00:39:07,763 --> 00:39:08,889
Hi Pua.
648
00:39:09,097 --> 00:39:12,017
I was just glad to see Pua
activate in that heat and
649
00:39:12,100 --> 00:39:17,022
get comfortable, catch waves,
take some, take some spills.
650
00:39:17,189 --> 00:39:18,774
- It was good.
- (gentle music plays)
651
00:39:19,024 --> 00:39:21,401
I'm just learning. I think
that's the biggest difference.
652
00:39:21,485 --> 00:39:23,779
And now having Pipe, like I
was able to be happy out there.
653
00:39:23,945 --> 00:39:27,866
Just, I told myself just have fun and to
push yourself and pull into barrels that
654
00:39:27,991 --> 00:39:30,786
you may have not have pulled in before.
And I think I did that.
655
00:39:31,828 --> 00:39:33,538
It makes me excited for next year.
656
00:39:36,666 --> 00:39:40,045
Felt like I was hustling,
I was giving it my all
657
00:39:40,128 --> 00:39:44,341
and whatever came at me,
I did the best that I could've done.
658
00:39:44,466 --> 00:39:46,009
(indistinct chatter)
659
00:39:46,093 --> 00:39:48,470
- I'm really bruised.
- Oh, where? Again?
660
00:39:48,553 --> 00:39:49,805
- Over all over my...
- Again?
661
00:39:49,888 --> 00:39:52,432
[Moana] Torso.
No, no, no, no from yesterday.
662
00:39:54,059 --> 00:39:56,353
The only queen of Pipe is Pipe itself.
663
00:39:56,520 --> 00:39:59,231
I don't think anybody deserves
that title except for Pipeline.
664
00:40:00,607 --> 00:40:04,111
Overall this season has
been an amazing ride.
665
00:40:04,194 --> 00:40:09,324
So many things in the past year has like
changed me as a person for the better.
666
00:40:09,449 --> 00:40:13,870
My girl gang, my Pipe surfing, my
winnings, my success, my losses.
667
00:40:13,995 --> 00:40:17,207
All of that has really shaped
me into a better person.
668
00:40:17,582 --> 00:40:22,629
(upbeat serene music plays)
669
00:40:33,974 --> 00:40:36,268
- Hi guys!
- Hi!
670
00:40:36,351 --> 00:40:38,770
Thanks for coming.
Good job at Pipe, you guys.
671
00:40:39,062 --> 00:40:42,524
- (unintelligible chatter fades)
- (music continues)
672
00:40:46,319 --> 00:40:49,281
So of course it's not the result that
I wanted out at Pipe.
673
00:40:49,447 --> 00:40:53,952
And my ribs are still sore
but it could have been way worse, so.
674
00:40:54,119 --> 00:40:57,122
- You scared the crap outta me.
- Yeah you pulled into like...
675
00:40:57,205 --> 00:40:59,416
- You came up all shaky.
- I'm you're glad you're okay.
676
00:40:59,499 --> 00:41:01,835
- [Maluhia] Yeah.
- I was so nervous going out.
677
00:41:02,002 --> 00:41:05,297
Right when I hit the water
I was like, "Oh it's really big".
678
00:41:05,380 --> 00:41:09,050
- And then I got really nervous.
- I wasn't able to do it this year,
679
00:41:09,134 --> 00:41:11,595
but I'm looking forward
to doing it next year and
680
00:41:11,678 --> 00:41:14,848
hopefully gaining more experience
at Pipe throughout the winter.
681
00:41:14,931 --> 00:41:21,771
- Come surf with us, come join us.
- I think you had an amazing season and
682
00:41:22,105 --> 00:41:24,316
you kind of proved to yourself that
683
00:41:24,482 --> 00:41:27,777
you can be one of the top
women surfers in the world.
684
00:41:27,861 --> 00:41:29,821
- Thank you, Moana.
- [all] Yeah.
685
00:41:29,905 --> 00:41:33,992
I think that you and Pua are gonna have
a lot of breakthrough performances.
686
00:41:34,159 --> 00:41:37,454
It was amazing to see you
on stage at (indistinct).
687
00:41:37,579 --> 00:41:41,666
And speaking Hawaiian and
our Olelo Hawaii
688
00:41:41,833 --> 00:41:44,753
and sharing that with the world.
It was special and...
689
00:41:44,878 --> 00:41:46,630
- Yeah.
- We applaud you for it
690
00:41:46,713 --> 00:41:49,758
and I'm so proud of you and
thankful that you can continue that on.
691
00:41:49,883 --> 00:41:51,718
And I'm happy I get
to compete with someone
692
00:41:51,885 --> 00:41:55,388
who also can Olelo Hawaii and
other native Hawaiian women.
693
00:41:55,472 --> 00:41:56,848
- It's special.
- [Pua] It's super special, yeah.
694
00:41:56,932 --> 00:41:58,266
- It's amazing.
- I'm excited.
695
00:41:58,725 --> 00:42:01,102
Well, I hope you guys are
really proud of yourselves
696
00:42:01,186 --> 00:42:04,397
because honestly all of you
did amazing the whole season.
697
00:42:04,522 --> 00:42:06,107
(speaking foreign language)
698
00:42:06,274 --> 00:42:08,902
I think you're a huge
role model for any like,
699
00:42:09,027 --> 00:42:11,655
native Hawaiian girl or girl in general.
700
00:42:11,780 --> 00:42:14,741
'Cause you're so strong
mentally to go through
701
00:42:14,866 --> 00:42:18,161
everything you've went
through this past year and
702
00:42:18,245 --> 00:42:23,041
I could like start crying right now,
but I'm, I like, I'm so proud of you.
703
00:42:23,708 --> 00:42:26,795
(Moana laughing)
704
00:42:27,420 --> 00:42:31,716
I'm so proud of us and how far we've come
and the best is yet to come.
705
00:42:34,761 --> 00:42:38,265
(girls singing in foreign language)
706
00:42:45,188 --> 00:42:47,941
(waves crashing)
707
00:42:55,865 --> 00:42:58,868
(upbeat music)
708
00:42:58,994 --> 00:43:03,748
This year was kind of a big year for me.
I'm excited to compete and travel
709
00:43:03,832 --> 00:43:05,709
on the Challenger Series next season.
710
00:43:06,793 --> 00:43:09,671
I love my home but I really
want to go somewhere and
711
00:43:09,796 --> 00:43:15,635
experience the rest of the world.
I want to continue competitive surfing and
712
00:43:15,719 --> 00:43:18,555
continue representing
Hawaii, Olelo Hawaii and
713
00:43:18,638 --> 00:43:21,099
Hawaiian culture on the
highest stage of surfing.
714
00:43:22,767 --> 00:43:27,272
(gentle music)
715
00:43:29,316 --> 00:43:33,236
After Pipe I had like a little spark
and joy of surfing big waves
716
00:43:33,320 --> 00:43:36,531
and my big goal is to travel around
and go to places that I've never been,
717
00:43:36,656 --> 00:43:38,783
surf waves I've never got
the opportunity to surf.
718
00:43:38,867 --> 00:43:41,494
I'm really excited to see where my surfing
is at the end of the year.
719
00:43:41,661 --> 00:43:44,706
Also, I'm partnering with
one of my best friends
720
00:43:44,789 --> 00:43:46,416
to start a business together.
721
00:43:46,624 --> 00:43:49,753
I think this year is a big
year for new challenges and
722
00:43:49,836 --> 00:43:51,463
I'm ready to ride that wave.
723
00:43:51,629 --> 00:43:53,882
(music continues)
724
00:43:54,549 --> 00:43:58,011
My goals are still to win
a world title like my dad
725
00:43:58,094 --> 00:44:02,098
and I also wanna go off and
win an Olympic gold medal.
726
00:44:02,182 --> 00:44:05,769
But I've realized whether it's
with surfing or with life,
727
00:44:05,852 --> 00:44:07,937
my parents will always be there for me.
728
00:44:08,063 --> 00:44:11,191
And I've realized over
the last couple months
729
00:44:11,358 --> 00:44:17,238
that my goals are to also love myself
and who I am and who I wanna be.
730
00:44:18,114 --> 00:44:21,534
You know, I really wanna find the joy
throughout it all. And just love it.
731
00:44:24,204 --> 00:44:27,957
My knee injury was a really, really
good way to shift my perspective on
732
00:44:28,041 --> 00:44:30,085
things that I really
prioritize in my life.
733
00:44:30,585 --> 00:44:33,880
And I got accepted to the
PhD program at UH Manoa.
734
00:44:34,881 --> 00:44:37,550
It's much easier to live
the life that I want to
735
00:44:37,634 --> 00:44:40,720
if I'm able to blend surfing and science
736
00:44:40,804 --> 00:44:44,808
and environmentalism and
Hawaiian culture together.
737
00:44:44,891 --> 00:44:47,435
And it makes me really
fulfilled and happy.
738
00:44:47,894 --> 00:44:49,938
(music continues)
739
00:44:52,399 --> 00:44:54,609
Looking into the future
what excites me the most
740
00:44:54,692 --> 00:44:57,195
is the Challenger Series that's coming up.
741
00:44:57,362 --> 00:44:59,864
I'm super excited to
compete around the world
742
00:44:59,948 --> 00:45:03,159
and try to qualify for
the championship tour.
743
00:45:03,243 --> 00:45:05,161
That's the ultimate goal.
744
00:45:07,580 --> 00:45:12,210
I've never had a group of female surfers
that I was so close to until now.
745
00:45:12,293 --> 00:45:15,338
Like I've only had boy buddy
friends to go surfing with,
746
00:45:15,422 --> 00:45:16,881
and they're not the same.
747
00:45:17,048 --> 00:45:20,468
Having a girl gang is like
the best thing ever. I am just like,
748
00:45:20,552 --> 00:45:22,929
this is what I've been missing
out this whole time on.
749
00:45:23,012 --> 00:45:25,765
Like I'm so thankful
that finally have this.
750
00:45:29,436 --> 00:45:33,440
(gentle music crescendos)
751
00:45:34,274 --> 00:45:36,734
(upbeat music)
68054
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