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Would you like to inspect the original subtitles? These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:01,767 --> 00:00:04,667 [narrator] A Caribbean island, home to a once powerful industry 2 00:00:04,667 --> 00:00:07,567 and of end up people divided. 3 00:00:07,567 --> 00:00:13,567 They set fire to the one thing that the company really, really cares about. 4 00:00:13,567 --> 00:00:17,567 [narrator] An isolated ghost town where dreams were made. 5 00:00:17,567 --> 00:00:23,600 This was simply not something you would expect to see 11,000 feet up. 6 00:00:23,667 --> 00:00:27,667 It demonstrates just how much wealth there that was here. 7 00:00:29,000 --> 00:00:30,000 [narrator] And in the Mediterranean, 8 00:00:30,000 --> 00:00:30,667 [narrator] And in the Mediterranean, 9 00:00:30,667 --> 00:00:31,000 an ancient village caught in the crossfire. 10 00:00:34,667 --> 00:00:36,700 Neighbor feared neighbor. The atmosphere had changed. 11 00:00:36,767 --> 00:00:38,066 It had become dangerous. 12 00:00:40,967 --> 00:00:42,800 [narrator] Decaying relics... 13 00:00:44,800 --> 00:00:47,200 ruins of lost worlds... 14 00:00:49,467 --> 00:00:52,767 sites haunted by the past, 15 00:00:52,767 --> 00:00:56,400 their secrets waiting to be revealed. 16 00:01:02,967 --> 00:01:06,100 High in the San Juan Mountains of Colorado, 17 00:01:06,166 --> 00:01:11,600 tucked away in a steep-sided valley is a land of shattered dreams. 18 00:01:17,266 --> 00:01:23,600 [Alicia] It's strikingly beautiful and on a sunny day it's even idyllic. 19 00:01:23,667 --> 00:01:30,000 But you can't help but wonder what this place looks like in the winter. 20 00:01:30,000 --> 00:01:30,300 But you can't help but wonder what this place looks like in the winter. 21 00:01:30,367 --> 00:01:31,000 [Sascha] For anyone living out here, you have to be pretty resilient. 22 00:01:35,767 --> 00:01:37,867 The weathers here are fierce. 23 00:01:37,867 --> 00:01:43,600 Snowstorms, avalanches, freezing cold temperatures. 24 00:01:43,667 --> 00:01:46,867 It's not the normal place you'd expect people to put buildings. 25 00:01:46,867 --> 00:01:48,767 So there must have been a good reason for them to be there. 26 00:01:50,600 --> 00:01:54,667 [narrator] From above it's clear that there was more to the site 27 00:01:54,667 --> 00:01:58,000 than the structures still standing today. 28 00:01:58,000 --> 00:02:00,000 As you come closer, you see the outlines of streets, 29 00:02:00,000 --> 00:02:01,000 As you come closer, you see the outlines of streets, 30 00:02:02,367 --> 00:02:05,467 you see the foundations of old buildings. 31 00:02:06,867 --> 00:02:10,100 [Dougal] Clearly, lots of effort was put into some of these. 32 00:02:10,100 --> 00:02:16,300 You've got some sort of quite ornate wooden structures, some really quite nice buildings. 33 00:02:16,367 --> 00:02:19,367 [Alicia] And others have seen better days. 34 00:02:19,367 --> 00:02:25,100 They look, as if they've been destroyed by some other outside factor. 35 00:02:25,100 --> 00:02:30,000 [narrator] What promise of riches first lured settlers to this inhospitable land? 36 00:02:30,000 --> 00:02:31,000 [narrator] What promise of riches first lured settlers to this inhospitable land? 37 00:02:31,166 --> 00:02:37,467 There must have been something that we can't see, something hidden from view. 38 00:02:37,467 --> 00:02:42,767 [narrator] And what unforeseen disaster would begin its premature demise? 39 00:02:47,500 --> 00:02:53,467 David Singer is a preservation expert and helps to look after what's left of the site today. 40 00:02:55,400 --> 00:02:57,066 [David] So, this building is a jail. 41 00:02:57,066 --> 00:02:59,367 It was built in 1882. 42 00:03:00,266 --> 00:03:01,000 This was law and order on the frontier. 43 00:03:02,867 --> 00:03:07,200 Buildings made of wood. But the planks are laid flat. 44 00:03:07,266 --> 00:03:09,567 So, the walls are all six inches thick. 45 00:03:11,100 --> 00:03:14,166 People would try and break out of the jail, of course. 46 00:03:14,166 --> 00:03:16,567 But people would try and break into the jail 47 00:03:16,567 --> 00:03:19,967 if they wanted to have their own kind of vigilante justice. 48 00:03:21,367 --> 00:03:23,567 [narrator] In the mid-19th century, 49 00:03:23,567 --> 00:03:29,667 the United States was a land gripped by wild optimism and savage greed. 50 00:03:29,667 --> 00:03:30,000 This place was a part of that story. 51 00:03:30,000 --> 00:03:31,000 This place was a part of that story. 52 00:03:32,667 --> 00:03:37,667 Once the federal government opened up this land to western settlements, 53 00:03:37,667 --> 00:03:39,400 it opened the floodgates. 54 00:03:39,467 --> 00:03:43,100 Suddenly Americans were coming in from the East Coast 55 00:03:43,100 --> 00:03:46,266 and immigrants were coming from other countries to seize 56 00:03:46,266 --> 00:03:50,300 whatever opportunity this land had for them. 57 00:03:51,567 --> 00:03:53,867 [narrator] Untamed frontiers like this 58 00:03:53,867 --> 00:03:58,767 were where fortune seekers chased the elusive American Dream. 59 00:03:58,767 --> 00:04:00,000 [Sascha] It's impossible to overestimate how inhospitable an area this is. 60 00:04:00,000 --> 00:04:01,000 [Sascha] It's impossible to overestimate how inhospitable an area this is. 61 00:04:03,266 --> 00:04:04,667 In 1884, 62 00:04:04,667 --> 00:04:11,500 a 23-day blizzard dumped 25 feet of snow on the region. 63 00:04:11,567 --> 00:04:18,166 People had to dig tunnels just to get from building to building. 64 00:04:18,166 --> 00:04:24,000 [narrator] But what these people wanted was worth the terrible hardship. 65 00:04:24,000 --> 00:04:28,100 [Dougal] The San Juan Mountains form part of the Colorado Mineral Belt. 66 00:04:28,100 --> 00:04:30,000 And this is an area that's famous for hard rock ores 67 00:04:30,000 --> 00:04:31,000 And this is an area that's famous for hard rock ores 68 00:04:32,867 --> 00:04:36,600 caused by mineralization associated with volcanic activity. 69 00:04:36,667 --> 00:04:43,200 And what you find is that this volcanic activity caused veins of gold, silver, lead, 70 00:04:43,266 --> 00:04:47,567 copper rich material to be intruded into the rocks around them. 71 00:04:47,567 --> 00:04:49,967 But it's actually very, very hard to get this material out 72 00:04:49,967 --> 00:04:51,467 because it's in the solid geology. 73 00:04:53,100 --> 00:04:55,266 [Sascha] As early as 1873, 74 00:04:55,266 --> 00:04:59,100 some groups had started to explore the Animas River 75 00:04:59,100 --> 00:05:00,000 and gold and silver deposits were discovered pretty early on. 76 00:05:00,000 --> 00:05:01,000 and gold and silver deposits were discovered pretty early on. 77 00:05:04,567 --> 00:05:09,000 Log cabins started to sprout up, scattered all around the place. 78 00:05:09,066 --> 00:05:11,100 And within a year or so, 79 00:05:11,100 --> 00:05:17,500 the Animas River area had become a central focus of hard rock, silver and gold mining. 80 00:05:18,900 --> 00:05:21,266 [narrator] This is Animas Forks, 81 00:05:21,266 --> 00:05:26,000 a remote mining boom town built on the promise of precious metals. 82 00:05:28,767 --> 00:05:30,000 This would have been the main street area. 83 00:05:30,000 --> 00:05:31,000 This would have been the main street area. 84 00:05:31,867 --> 00:05:35,100 There were two streets, Little Street and Hanson. 85 00:05:35,100 --> 00:05:37,166 This area would have been bustling 86 00:05:37,166 --> 00:05:43,000 with miners going to work in the mills and the mines, 87 00:05:43,066 --> 00:05:50,000 carts full of equipment and materials, kids playing, children going off to school. 88 00:05:51,100 --> 00:05:53,900 [narrator] Perched at around 11,000 feet, 89 00:05:53,967 --> 00:05:58,400 this was one of the highest altitude mining towns in the country. 90 00:05:58,467 --> 00:06:00,000 [Alicia] Animas Forks became a substantial town over time 91 00:06:00,000 --> 00:06:01,000 [Alicia] Animas Forks became a substantial town over time 92 00:06:02,567 --> 00:06:05,800 but it really began to see some of its biggest developments 93 00:06:05,867 --> 00:06:10,467 after the sawmill and lumber mill were created. 94 00:06:10,467 --> 00:06:15,667 [narrator] Within three years there were 30 cabins, a general store, 95 00:06:15,667 --> 00:06:19,900 several saloons, a pharmacy, and a post office. 96 00:06:21,266 --> 00:06:23,867 [Alicia] Even had the Kalamazoo Hotel, 97 00:06:23,867 --> 00:06:27,900 which was the grandest and largest building in the area. 98 00:06:27,967 --> 00:06:30,000 It also had the town's only telephone, and this beautiful grand piano. 99 00:06:30,000 --> 00:06:31,000 It also had the town's only telephone, and this beautiful grand piano. 100 00:06:34,200 --> 00:06:36,667 Animas Forks was a bustling metropolis. 101 00:06:39,066 --> 00:06:42,900 [narrator] At its height, 400 people called this home. 102 00:06:43,967 --> 00:06:46,900 For one family drawn here, theirs was a story 103 00:06:46,967 --> 00:06:52,100 that captured the reality of what towns like this were really all about. 104 00:06:54,600 --> 00:06:58,867 [David] When the Duncans moved here in the late 1870s, 105 00:06:58,867 --> 00:07:00,000 they were considering this to be a place that was going to grow and develop, 106 00:07:00,000 --> 00:07:01,000 they were considering this to be a place that was going to grow and develop, 107 00:07:05,266 --> 00:07:08,667 and become a full-fledged town. 108 00:07:08,667 --> 00:07:14,800 And so, they built a home that was commensurate with modern living in the Victorian era. 109 00:07:16,367 --> 00:07:20,767 The amazing views out into the mountains from this bay window 110 00:07:20,767 --> 00:07:23,767 were unrivaled for this kind of living, 111 00:07:23,767 --> 00:07:28,667 having a bit of culture while you were kind of on the frontier as a pioneer. 112 00:07:30,467 --> 00:07:31,000 [Sascha] This was simply not something you would expect to see 113 00:07:34,166 --> 00:07:37,300 11,000 feet up the side of a steep mountain. 114 00:07:37,367 --> 00:07:42,400 And it demonstrates just how much wealth there was to be made here. 115 00:07:44,867 --> 00:07:47,667 [narrator] Pride comes before a fall. 116 00:07:47,667 --> 00:07:54,700 And soon, the Duncans and other townspeople would learn that lesson the hard way. 117 00:07:54,767 --> 00:07:59,300 The town had hit its height and it was rapidly going into decline. 118 00:08:09,767 --> 00:08:14,967 [narrator] In the rugged mountains of Colorado is a gold mining ghost town. 119 00:08:14,967 --> 00:08:20,266 Its rapid rise made the inhabitants rich, until catastrophe intervened. 120 00:08:21,900 --> 00:08:28,867 The town's boom period came to a sudden end on October 22nd, 1891. 121 00:08:30,266 --> 00:08:32,000 A huge fire burned down most of the business district, 122 00:08:32,000 --> 00:08:33,000 A huge fire burned down most of the business district, 123 00:08:35,000 --> 00:08:39,266 causing over $20,000 in damage. 124 00:08:39,266 --> 00:08:44,066 [Alicia] The fire actually originated in the Kalamazoo House kitchen 125 00:08:44,066 --> 00:08:47,667 and then it ultimately ended up spreading throughout the rest of the town. 126 00:08:49,066 --> 00:08:53,367 And to add insult to injury, mining had already begun to taper. 127 00:08:53,367 --> 00:08:56,400 And so, with these two things together, 128 00:08:56,467 --> 00:09:01,767 this was a really crucial moment for the people of Animas Forks. 129 00:09:01,767 --> 00:09:02,000 [narrator] Only five years after they arrived, the Duncans departed Animas Forks. 130 00:09:02,000 --> 00:09:03,000 [narrator] Only five years after they arrived, the Duncans departed Animas Forks. 131 00:09:07,467 --> 00:09:11,166 Their dream of striking it rich in tatters. 132 00:09:11,166 --> 00:09:15,100 But not everyone packed their belongings in such a hurry. 133 00:09:15,100 --> 00:09:17,266 [David] The town kind of lay fallow for a while 134 00:09:17,266 --> 00:09:21,767 until it was revived again sometime after 1904 135 00:09:21,767 --> 00:09:25,367 when the Gold Prince Mill was being constructed. 136 00:09:28,767 --> 00:09:30,467 This is a gravity-fed mill. 137 00:09:30,467 --> 00:09:32,000 And so, that's why you're seeing the foundation of this large building tiered 138 00:09:32,000 --> 00:09:33,000 And so, that's why you're seeing the foundation of this large building tiered 139 00:09:35,567 --> 00:09:38,367 as they did things to the ore to process it. 140 00:09:40,266 --> 00:09:45,467 At its peak, it had a 500-ton-per-day capacity 141 00:09:45,467 --> 00:09:49,166 and it was fed ore by this incredibly impressive 142 00:09:49,166 --> 00:09:53,667 12,600-foot aerial tramway. 143 00:09:54,767 --> 00:09:56,266 [Dougal] Things were going swimmingly 144 00:09:56,266 --> 00:09:58,700 and looked like things were improving a lot in this area 145 00:09:58,767 --> 00:10:02,000 until unfortunately the owners of the Gold Prince Mill went bankrupt in 1907. 146 00:10:02,000 --> 00:10:03,000 until unfortunately the owners of the Gold Prince Mill went bankrupt in 1907. 147 00:10:03,967 --> 00:10:08,767 [narrator] When it was no longer profitable to extract the mineral-bearing ore, 148 00:10:08,767 --> 00:10:12,367 the town's days were sadly numbered. 149 00:10:12,367 --> 00:10:16,467 [David] After the Gold Prince Mill closed down in 1910, 150 00:10:16,467 --> 00:10:17,700 people moved on 151 00:10:17,767 --> 00:10:22,266 and there were some sporadic repopulation here 152 00:10:22,266 --> 00:10:25,266 in the '20s and then the '60s. 153 00:10:25,266 --> 00:10:28,367 But the town was never occupied again. 154 00:10:32,767 --> 00:10:33,000 [narrator] For centuries, the lure of gold has driven humankind mad with lust. 155 00:10:38,667 --> 00:10:43,767 A hard life of feast or famine that shaped not only the landscape 156 00:10:43,767 --> 00:10:47,000 but the world we live in today. 157 00:10:47,000 --> 00:10:51,100 [Sascha] It might seem that the story of Animas Forks is just another story 158 00:10:51,166 --> 00:10:54,000 of a boomtown gone bust. 159 00:10:54,066 --> 00:10:56,467 And sure, in many ways it is. 160 00:10:56,467 --> 00:11:01,467 But it's also a story of lives made, lives lost in the process. 161 00:11:01,467 --> 00:11:02,000 And we shouldn't forget that part of it. 162 00:11:02,000 --> 00:11:03,000 And we shouldn't forget that part of it. 163 00:11:10,000 --> 00:11:12,400 [narrator] Off the southern coast of England, 164 00:11:12,467 --> 00:11:15,700 in The Solent is an isolated structure. 165 00:11:24,200 --> 00:11:26,667 [Lynette] The first time I ever saw this, 166 00:11:26,667 --> 00:11:32,000 I was sailing out of Portsmouth through The Solent. 167 00:11:32,066 --> 00:11:33,000 And there, up ahead of us, looked like it was an island. 168 00:11:37,166 --> 00:11:43,767 And we got closer, and can't be an island, it's... it's too round. 169 00:11:43,767 --> 00:11:49,266 [Dougal] At face value, it looks like something from Mad Max meets Waterworld. 170 00:11:49,266 --> 00:11:50,967 What's it doing there? 171 00:11:53,667 --> 00:11:59,667 [narrator] Its state of decay suggests this is no modern construction. 172 00:11:59,667 --> 00:12:02,000 [Sascha] This is really falling to pieces. 173 00:12:02,000 --> 00:12:02,667 [Sascha] This is really falling to pieces. 174 00:12:02,667 --> 00:12:03,000 The concrete is crumbling, all the metal is corroded. 175 00:12:08,266 --> 00:12:12,367 This has clearly been through some really tough years. 176 00:12:12,367 --> 00:12:16,367 [narrator] Inside is a labyrinth of dark passages. 177 00:12:17,367 --> 00:12:18,867 [Dougal] And as you explore further, 178 00:12:18,867 --> 00:12:22,300 you can see that there's a whole series of interconnecting corridors, 179 00:12:22,367 --> 00:12:25,166 some of which are so tight you have to squeeze past. 180 00:12:25,166 --> 00:12:27,200 It's a real claustrophobic environment. 181 00:12:29,367 --> 00:12:32,000 [narrator] Are the unobstructed views of the ocean 182 00:12:32,000 --> 00:12:32,367 [narrator] Are the unobstructed views of the ocean 183 00:12:32,367 --> 00:12:33,000 key to understanding the structure's purpose? 184 00:12:36,367 --> 00:12:40,100 [Sascha] That rather unique circular design 185 00:12:40,166 --> 00:12:44,767 is a really crucial clue as to what was going on here. 186 00:12:45,867 --> 00:12:47,367 Another important fact 187 00:12:47,367 --> 00:12:52,500 to consider is that there are other emplacements just like it. 188 00:12:52,567 --> 00:12:54,000 [Dougal] There's been a lot of thought 189 00:12:54,000 --> 00:12:58,100 put into this very tightly knit, very strong structure. 190 00:12:58,166 --> 00:12:59,266 What was it for? 191 00:13:05,400 --> 00:13:08,100 [narrator] For centuries, in times of war, 192 00:13:08,166 --> 00:13:13,300 the United Kingdom has taken advantage of its position as an island nation. 193 00:13:13,367 --> 00:13:15,266 This hulking mass of concrete 194 00:13:15,266 --> 00:13:20,900 was a vital part of the strategy to ward off foreign invaders. 195 00:13:20,967 --> 00:13:23,867 [Dougal] There are a number of things that are built on top of it 196 00:13:23,867 --> 00:13:26,100 that are clearly from World War II. 197 00:13:26,166 --> 00:13:29,600 There are outposts, there's place to put guns. 198 00:13:29,667 --> 00:13:31,767 I mean it's very reminiscent of many of the structures 199 00:13:31,767 --> 00:13:32,000 that we see along this coastal part of the UK. 200 00:13:32,000 --> 00:13:33,000 that we see along this coastal part of the UK. 201 00:13:36,567 --> 00:13:39,767 [narrator] Dom Hones lives nearby on the mainland, 202 00:13:39,767 --> 00:13:43,000 and is an expert on this unique slice of history. 203 00:13:45,467 --> 00:13:47,867 [Dom] We're downstairs in the cartridge cellar, 204 00:13:47,867 --> 00:13:50,300 which is the lower basement floor at the fort. 205 00:13:50,367 --> 00:13:55,166 And quite simply down here was where all of the ammunitions was initially stored 206 00:13:55,166 --> 00:13:59,800 before it was taken up to the higher levels to the gun emplacements to be used. 207 00:14:02,266 --> 00:14:03,000 [narrator] Clearly this was designed for war. 208 00:14:06,166 --> 00:14:11,567 But its qualities don't appear suited to the incredible firepower of the Nazis. 209 00:14:13,800 --> 00:14:17,367 This was not something that could withstand the type of warfare 210 00:14:17,367 --> 00:14:19,867 that was waged in World War II. 211 00:14:21,667 --> 00:14:24,100 I mean, you could either just bomb it from the air, 212 00:14:24,166 --> 00:14:27,400 or you could hit it with heavy shells from a warship. 213 00:14:29,300 --> 00:14:31,500 [Dougal] But these structures from World War II, 214 00:14:31,567 --> 00:14:32,000 are these built on something that pre-existed? 215 00:14:32,000 --> 00:14:33,000 are these built on something that pre-existed? 216 00:14:35,100 --> 00:14:37,700 And is that the key to what this place used to be used for? 217 00:14:40,600 --> 00:14:44,467 [narrator] If not intended to defend against German attack, 218 00:14:44,467 --> 00:14:47,667 what enemy threatened England's shores? 219 00:14:58,467 --> 00:15:02,767 [narrator] In the English Channel is an isolated defensive structure. 220 00:15:02,767 --> 00:15:06,467 Surviving elements hint it played a role in World War II, 221 00:15:06,467 --> 00:15:10,567 and yet it appears to date to a much earlier period. 222 00:15:11,667 --> 00:15:14,200 This is clearly more than 100 years old. 223 00:15:14,266 --> 00:15:15,967 This is 150 years old. 224 00:15:18,200 --> 00:15:21,400 [narrator] A century before Hitler's forces terrorized Europe, 225 00:15:21,400 --> 00:15:22,000 [narrator] A century before Hitler's forces terrorized Europe, 226 00:15:22,166 --> 00:15:26,467 fear of invasion came from much closer to home. 227 00:15:26,467 --> 00:15:34,100 In the old days England's ancient enemy was France. 228 00:15:34,166 --> 00:15:39,900 And of the continental powers, France is the closest one. 229 00:15:39,967 --> 00:15:43,500 It's only a few miles across the English Channel from Britain. 230 00:15:45,166 --> 00:15:48,900 [narrator] Construction here began in 1861, 231 00:15:48,967 --> 00:15:51,367 a time of heightened tension 232 00:15:51,367 --> 00:15:51,400 led by an ambitious French family dynasty with a score to settle. 233 00:15:51,400 --> 00:15:52,000 led by an ambitious French family dynasty with a score to settle. 234 00:15:58,567 --> 00:16:02,800 [Sascha] France's new leader was Napoleon Bonaparte III, 235 00:16:02,867 --> 00:16:06,266 the nephew of the famous Napoleon Bonaparte 236 00:16:06,266 --> 00:16:09,266 who had fought an epic battle against Britain 237 00:16:09,266 --> 00:16:13,867 before finally facing defeat at Trafalgar and Waterloo. 238 00:16:13,867 --> 00:16:15,567 You can imagine 239 00:16:15,567 --> 00:16:20,567 why his descendant might hold just a little bit of a grudge against the British. 240 00:16:22,000 --> 00:16:23,634 [Dougal] The prime minister at the time, 241 00:16:23,634 --> 00:16:28,166 Henry John Temple, 3rd Viscount Palmerston, was a very popular man. 242 00:16:28,166 --> 00:16:32,867 And he decreed that it would be useful to set up a series of defenses 243 00:16:32,867 --> 00:16:35,367 against any potential attack from the sea. 244 00:16:37,300 --> 00:16:40,867 [narrator] There was good reason to think an attack was imminent. 245 00:16:40,867 --> 00:16:45,467 The French were embarking on an aggressive shipbuilding program, 246 00:16:45,467 --> 00:16:49,266 technologically advanced and unparalleled in its might. 247 00:16:49,266 --> 00:16:51,367 [Dom] The French military was developed, 248 00:16:51,367 --> 00:16:51,400 so that they had, you know, ironclad warships including La Gloire. 249 00:16:51,400 --> 00:16:52,000 so that they had, you know, ironclad warships including La Gloire. 250 00:16:57,266 --> 00:17:01,667 [narrator] Britain had yet to develop an equivalent armored warship. 251 00:17:01,667 --> 00:17:05,900 Its aging wooden fleet didn't stand a chance. 252 00:17:05,967 --> 00:17:10,600 The La Gloire was a major threat to Britain. 253 00:17:10,667 --> 00:17:13,967 Palmerston knew that the French ironclad could sail 254 00:17:13,967 --> 00:17:16,367 right up a Royal Navy fleet 255 00:17:16,367 --> 00:17:21,400 and that the cannons of those ships could do very little to dent the ironclad hull. 256 00:17:21,400 --> 00:17:21,767 and that the cannons of those ships could do very little to dent the ironclad hull. 257 00:17:22,900 --> 00:17:25,567 Britain was put on the backfoot almost overnight. 258 00:17:25,567 --> 00:17:30,166 The ironclad was a kind of undefeatable super weapon. 259 00:17:32,600 --> 00:17:36,200 [narrator] In response, Palmerston ordered a royal commission 260 00:17:36,266 --> 00:17:40,467 to assess the United Kingdom's ability to repel foreign invaders. 261 00:17:40,467 --> 00:17:42,967 Its findings spread panic. 262 00:17:44,667 --> 00:17:51,400 If you can't get the Royal Navy to suddenly convert to ironclads, 263 00:17:51,400 --> 00:17:51,467 If you can't get the Royal Navy to suddenly convert to ironclads, 264 00:17:51,467 --> 00:17:52,000 you've got to defend the Royal Navy's ports with something else. 265 00:17:55,767 --> 00:18:00,867 You've got to defend them using armored fortresses instead. 266 00:18:03,266 --> 00:18:06,266 [narrator] This is Horse Sand Fort, 267 00:18:06,266 --> 00:18:09,166 one of a chain of four sea-based defenses 268 00:18:09,166 --> 00:18:14,600 intended to protect the key naval position of Portsmouth from French attack. 269 00:18:14,667 --> 00:18:19,867 In today's money, each stronghold cost around $60 million. 270 00:18:19,867 --> 00:18:21,400 And they were part of a far larger nationwide plan 271 00:18:21,400 --> 00:18:22,000 And they were part of a far larger nationwide plan 272 00:18:23,567 --> 00:18:26,266 that would come to define Palmerston's reign. 273 00:18:27,567 --> 00:18:30,000 [Dougal] It's difficult to build at sea at the best of time. 274 00:18:30,000 --> 00:18:32,967 You imagine how hard it must have been in the 1860s. 275 00:18:32,967 --> 00:18:36,300 And what they would do is they would sail these pre-formed concrete blocks 276 00:18:36,367 --> 00:18:40,767 out to the site and drop them to form the foundations on the sea floor 277 00:18:40,767 --> 00:18:41,967 and build up from there. 278 00:18:41,967 --> 00:18:44,000 And, eventually, you can build up out of the sea 279 00:18:44,066 --> 00:18:46,100 and build the structure of these fortresses. 280 00:18:48,567 --> 00:18:50,367 [narrator] Above the foundation 281 00:18:50,367 --> 00:18:51,400 was a basement level divided radially into compartments for ammunition, 282 00:18:51,400 --> 00:18:52,000 was a basement level divided radially into compartments for ammunition, 283 00:18:55,467 --> 00:18:58,967 with the outermost passage designed to allow additional armor 284 00:18:58,967 --> 00:19:02,467 to be bolted onto the exterior of the fort. 285 00:19:02,467 --> 00:19:08,100 When finished in 1880 there was enough firepower stored inside 286 00:19:08,100 --> 00:19:10,467 to sink any approaching fleet. 287 00:19:11,900 --> 00:19:15,500 So, here we have one of the gun emplacements. 288 00:19:15,567 --> 00:19:21,400 There would have been 49 in total, 25 on one level, 24 on the other. 289 00:19:21,400 --> 00:19:21,467 There would have been 49 in total, 25 on one level, 24 on the other. 290 00:19:21,467 --> 00:19:22,000 And this is where the main gun emplacements were and the main firepower for the force. 291 00:19:28,967 --> 00:19:33,467 Originally been up to 12.5-inch rifle muzzle-loading guns, 292 00:19:33,467 --> 00:19:36,000 huge, huge 38-ton guns. 293 00:19:37,800 --> 00:19:40,000 [narrator] On the fort's upper levels, 294 00:19:40,066 --> 00:19:45,000 the troops kept a round-the-clock watch for any approaching enemy. 295 00:19:45,000 --> 00:19:47,367 The way that these forts were designed 296 00:19:47,367 --> 00:19:51,400 was that they created a line of defense across the entire Solent 297 00:19:51,400 --> 00:19:52,000 was that they created a line of defense across the entire Solent 298 00:19:53,066 --> 00:19:56,967 that the French navy would have to pass through in order to get to the shore. 299 00:19:58,266 --> 00:20:00,667 Had they attempted to get through, 300 00:20:00,667 --> 00:20:02,967 they would had to come through between Horse Sand Fort 301 00:20:02,967 --> 00:20:07,100 and No Man's Ford and they would have been obliterated from all angles. 302 00:20:07,100 --> 00:20:09,900 And every area, stretch of water in between would have been covered. 303 00:20:14,400 --> 00:20:17,367 [narrator] Were the English ready for the French attack? 304 00:20:17,367 --> 00:20:21,367 And would the costly fort stand up to the challenge? 305 00:20:32,100 --> 00:20:35,166 [narrator] In the English Channel is an aging fort 306 00:20:35,166 --> 00:20:40,000 designed to protect against a French navy readying for war. 307 00:20:40,000 --> 00:20:45,266 The soldiers stationed on board kept a constant watch. 308 00:20:45,266 --> 00:20:48,667 So when the alarm sounded, which could have been any time of day or night, 309 00:20:48,667 --> 00:20:53,500 the soldiers had to, you know, stop whatever they were doing and take the call to arms. 310 00:20:55,367 --> 00:20:59,100 [narrator] But that call to arms never came. 311 00:21:00,367 --> 00:21:02,600 [Sascha] In the early 20th century, 312 00:21:02,667 --> 00:21:05,467 the dynamics of Britain's relationship 313 00:21:05,467 --> 00:21:10,667 to its continental allies shifted dramatically. 314 00:21:10,667 --> 00:21:16,367 The unification of Germany really changed the equation on the continent. 315 00:21:18,000 --> 00:21:23,667 [Lynette] Lord Palmerston gears up for a French attack that never comes. 316 00:21:23,667 --> 00:21:24,680 The crisis in relations with the French passes. 317 00:21:24,680 --> 00:21:25,000 The crisis in relations with the French passes. 318 00:21:27,266 --> 00:21:33,567 And in fact, the French and the British come together in the middle of the 19th century 319 00:21:33,567 --> 00:21:36,767 and are as close allies 320 00:21:36,767 --> 00:21:41,166 as two nations can be for decades. 321 00:21:42,700 --> 00:21:45,700 [narrator] For the man that ordered the fort's construction, 322 00:21:45,767 --> 00:21:49,200 the defenses became a damning part of his legacy. 323 00:21:51,000 --> 00:21:54,266 [Sascha] The official title is The Solent Forts. 324 00:21:54,266 --> 00:21:54,680 But while they were built, they were given a different name by a derisive press. 325 00:21:54,680 --> 00:21:55,000 But while they were built, they were given a different name by a derisive press. 326 00:22:00,367 --> 00:22:04,367 They were called Palmerston's Follies. 327 00:22:04,367 --> 00:22:08,300 [narrator] Across the south coast, over 80 forts were commissioned. 328 00:22:08,367 --> 00:22:12,467 To this day, it was the single most expensive military project 329 00:22:12,467 --> 00:22:15,500 Britain has undertaken during peacetime. 330 00:22:15,567 --> 00:22:16,900 [Lynette] With hindsight, 331 00:22:16,967 --> 00:22:20,867 you might say that Lord Palmerston was foolish 332 00:22:20,867 --> 00:22:24,680 to build all of those fortresses with a massive investment of national wealth, 333 00:22:24,680 --> 00:22:25,000 to build all of those fortresses with a massive investment of national wealth, 334 00:22:26,867 --> 00:22:29,266 but only with hindsight. 335 00:22:30,767 --> 00:22:33,000 [narrator] Even after the fort was repurposed 336 00:22:33,000 --> 00:22:39,266 for use in the First and then Second World War, the guns stayed silent. 337 00:22:39,266 --> 00:22:44,900 [Don] There has never been a shot fired in anger from Horse Sand. 338 00:22:44,967 --> 00:22:47,567 The closest they got to it was during World War II 339 00:22:47,567 --> 00:22:51,300 when one of the French warships sought refuge in Portsmouth. 340 00:22:51,367 --> 00:22:54,680 And that's the only time the cannons and the forts were targeted on that ship 341 00:22:54,680 --> 00:22:55,000 And that's the only time the cannons and the forts were targeted on that ship 342 00:22:56,066 --> 00:22:59,000 just to ensure its safe passage into the harbor. 343 00:23:04,900 --> 00:23:09,166 [narrator] A decade after the world's deadliest conflict ended, 344 00:23:09,166 --> 00:23:11,367 the fort was decommissioned. 345 00:23:11,367 --> 00:23:17,900 To this day, it has sat empty, an ocean albatross motivated by fear. 346 00:23:25,667 --> 00:23:28,266 On the island of Puerto Rico, 347 00:23:28,266 --> 00:23:33,000 near the southern shore, are the remnants of a fallen giant. 348 00:23:40,100 --> 00:23:47,166 [Jim] As you approach from the water, you see what looks like a Caribbean paradise. 349 00:23:47,166 --> 00:23:48,600 But as you get closer, 350 00:23:48,600 --> 00:23:54,367 you see the vast ruins of some kind of big industrial enterprise. 351 00:23:58,467 --> 00:24:01,667 [Claire] There's conveyor belts and chutes, and chimneys. 352 00:24:01,667 --> 00:24:05,066 There's a massive pier heading out into the water. 353 00:24:05,066 --> 00:24:06,900 Obviously, we're taking something away. 354 00:24:06,967 --> 00:24:08,967 There's some transportation involved. 355 00:24:08,967 --> 00:24:11,066 But what was it for? 356 00:24:12,767 --> 00:24:15,967 [narrator] Surrounding the industrial zone are clues 357 00:24:15,967 --> 00:24:19,667 this area was even bigger than it first appears. 358 00:24:21,166 --> 00:24:24,467 [Claire] There's also signs that there's a typical town here. 359 00:24:24,467 --> 00:24:24,680 There's all sorts of little buildings, different shapes and sizes, 360 00:24:24,680 --> 00:24:25,000 There's all sorts of little buildings, different shapes and sizes, 361 00:24:28,467 --> 00:24:33,900 some very domestic, some clearly for the community. 362 00:24:33,967 --> 00:24:36,266 [Jim] You see what looks like it might have been a hotel. 363 00:24:36,266 --> 00:24:41,400 Everything built for those tropical conditions with large verandas, 364 00:24:41,467 --> 00:24:46,166 lots of big windows for the breezes to blow through. 365 00:24:46,166 --> 00:24:52,800 [narrator] But the layout of this town suggests not all was as it seemed. 366 00:24:52,867 --> 00:24:54,680 Whatever this place was, you can see that it obviously housed a lot of people. 367 00:24:54,680 --> 00:24:55,000 Whatever this place was, you can see that it obviously housed a lot of people. 368 00:24:57,467 --> 00:25:00,500 But there appears to be something off with it. 369 00:25:00,567 --> 00:25:04,767 You can spot that there's two very, very different standards of living. 370 00:25:12,166 --> 00:25:16,000 [narrator] The rusting structures that cling to the landscape today 371 00:25:16,066 --> 00:25:19,867 were once the beating heart of this island. 372 00:25:19,867 --> 00:25:24,680 Wilfredo Santiago lives nearby and is fascinated by the run-down site's past. 373 00:25:24,680 --> 00:25:25,000 Wilfredo Santiago lives nearby and is fascinated by the run-down site's past. 374 00:25:28,200 --> 00:25:30,233 [Wilfredo] So, at its height, 375 00:25:30,233 --> 00:25:34,567 this facility was basically creating tons of this product that was in super high demand. 376 00:25:34,567 --> 00:25:39,567 Basically, sustained the economy of the country for almost 100 years. 377 00:25:43,667 --> 00:25:45,767 So, right now we're standing at the central office. 378 00:25:45,767 --> 00:25:49,367 It was basically filled with desks, a lot of processors, a lot of paperwork. 379 00:25:49,367 --> 00:25:51,300 It was the central hub of information. 380 00:25:51,367 --> 00:25:53,100 Every process went through here. 381 00:25:53,166 --> 00:25:54,680 So, most of the workforce here in the central office were Americans. 382 00:25:54,680 --> 00:25:55,000 So, most of the workforce here in the central office were Americans. 383 00:25:56,667 --> 00:26:00,166 They were the figures of power. 384 00:26:00,166 --> 00:26:04,800 [narrator] For four centuries, Puerto Rico had been a Spanish colony. 385 00:26:04,867 --> 00:26:07,266 As the 1800s drew to a close, 386 00:26:07,266 --> 00:26:12,667 a new superpower emerged that would change the course of the island's history. 387 00:26:14,066 --> 00:26:17,700 [Jim] In 1898, a very short but intense war 388 00:26:17,767 --> 00:26:21,700 started between Spain and the United States. 389 00:26:21,767 --> 00:26:24,680 Within a year, Spain had decided there was no way they could win this war 390 00:26:24,680 --> 00:26:25,000 Within a year, Spain had decided there was no way they could win this war 391 00:26:26,667 --> 00:26:32,100 and they actually granted the island of Puerto Rico to the United States. 392 00:26:32,166 --> 00:26:39,266 A lot of Americans saw Puerto Rico as a wonderful opportunity for investment. 393 00:26:39,266 --> 00:26:43,000 [Claire] So, Ford and Co., that's not the car people, a different Ford, 394 00:26:43,066 --> 00:26:45,000 acquired the land here, 395 00:26:45,000 --> 00:26:50,567 and with it they decided to invest a huge amount of money 396 00:26:50,567 --> 00:26:53,400 in order to make an even bigger amount of money. 397 00:26:53,467 --> 00:26:54,680 [Alicia] Everything was centered around 398 00:26:54,680 --> 00:26:55,000 [Alicia] Everything was centered around 399 00:26:55,867 --> 00:27:01,100 and everything came to be because of one commodity, sugar. 400 00:27:02,467 --> 00:27:06,600 [narrator] These are the ruins of Central Aguirre, 401 00:27:06,667 --> 00:27:10,367 a company town built on sweet white gold. 402 00:27:12,900 --> 00:27:15,767 [Wilfredo] The employees worked sun to sun, what they called it sol a sol. 403 00:27:15,767 --> 00:27:18,200 It was basically 6 a.m. to 6 p.m. 404 00:27:18,266 --> 00:27:20,300 And a lot of people, there was no transportation. 405 00:27:20,367 --> 00:27:23,000 So, if you live pretty far away from the area, 406 00:27:23,000 --> 00:27:24,680 you have to walk one hour, two hours to get here. 407 00:27:24,680 --> 00:27:25,000 you have to walk one hour, two hours to get here. 408 00:27:25,367 --> 00:27:29,200 So, you were losing almost all your life working for a misery. 409 00:27:30,767 --> 00:27:32,500 [narrator] Profit was key, 410 00:27:32,500 --> 00:27:36,900 and the surrounding neighborhood grew to support the booming industry. 411 00:27:36,967 --> 00:27:39,767 [Claire] You can't run a place like this just on the factory. 412 00:27:39,767 --> 00:27:42,467 You need all the extra supporting stuff. 413 00:27:42,467 --> 00:27:46,567 You need a town, hospitals, schools, places to worship. 414 00:27:47,900 --> 00:27:54,567 It had the lot absolutely tied to the factory at its heart. 415 00:27:54,567 --> 00:27:54,680 [Alicia] By establishing these communities around the factories, 416 00:27:54,680 --> 00:27:55,000 [Alicia] By establishing these communities around the factories, 417 00:27:58,567 --> 00:28:03,567 factory owners were helping to ensure a consistent and stable labor force. 418 00:28:05,200 --> 00:28:07,500 [Jim] So, in the early 20th century, 419 00:28:07,567 --> 00:28:15,000 the Aguirre plantation became the focus of a lot of very modern industrialization. 420 00:28:15,000 --> 00:28:19,100 They realized if they could get the cane from the fields to the plant, 421 00:28:19,166 --> 00:28:24,680 crushed and processed, and loaded onto ships with the fewest human hands possible, 422 00:28:24,680 --> 00:28:25,000 crushed and processed, and loaded onto ships with the fewest human hands possible, 423 00:28:25,367 --> 00:28:29,767 that would be the most cost-effective way to run the whole operation. 424 00:28:32,400 --> 00:28:36,266 [narrator] By 1920, production increased to record levels, 425 00:28:36,266 --> 00:28:40,100 generating over $5 million per year. 426 00:28:40,166 --> 00:28:43,200 The population swelled to almost 6,000, 427 00:28:43,266 --> 00:28:46,200 mostly employees of Central Aguirre. 428 00:28:48,567 --> 00:28:53,000 But for the workers, a dark side would soon be revealed, 429 00:28:53,066 --> 00:28:54,680 unleashing a violent wave of protest. 430 00:28:54,680 --> 00:28:55,000 unleashing a violent wave of protest. 431 00:28:56,467 --> 00:29:00,867 They set fire to the one thing that the company really, really cares about 432 00:29:00,867 --> 00:29:02,800 in order to get people to pay attention. 433 00:29:14,000 --> 00:29:18,367 [narrator] In Puerto Rico are the remains of a huge industrial sugar mill 434 00:29:18,367 --> 00:29:21,467 surrounded by the company town that supported it. 435 00:29:21,467 --> 00:29:24,800 It offered the hope of prosperity to local workers. 436 00:29:24,867 --> 00:29:29,467 But underlying intolerance threatened to destroy it. 437 00:29:29,467 --> 00:29:35,667 In theory, providing this community for workers is utopian. 438 00:29:35,667 --> 00:29:36,920 But if we actually look at the site, 439 00:29:36,920 --> 00:29:37,000 But if we actually look at the site, 440 00:29:39,066 --> 00:29:43,967 we see that there is segregation that runs rampant in this facility. 441 00:29:43,967 --> 00:29:49,667 [Jim] Where the American overseers lived in these lovely houses, 442 00:29:49,667 --> 00:29:55,700 they socialized strictly among themselves and they had the best of everything. 443 00:29:55,767 --> 00:30:01,600 The people from Puerto Rico who live there lived in very modest housing. 444 00:30:03,367 --> 00:30:06,667 [narrator] The accommodation was of such poor construction, 445 00:30:06,667 --> 00:30:06,920 little of it survives to be seen today. 446 00:30:06,920 --> 00:30:07,000 little of it survives to be seen today. 447 00:30:10,367 --> 00:30:13,900 [Claire] So, here it's not just about civil planning, 448 00:30:13,967 --> 00:30:16,066 making life beautiful for everybody. 449 00:30:16,066 --> 00:30:18,867 There's a hierarchy and there's apartheid. 450 00:30:20,100 --> 00:30:22,567 You've got one area that's for the Americans 451 00:30:22,567 --> 00:30:25,567 and you've got the other area that's for the locals. 452 00:30:27,400 --> 00:30:30,567 [narrator] The divide didn't stop at the housing. 453 00:30:30,567 --> 00:30:35,200 At the American hotel, the deep-seated prejudice becomes painfully clear. 454 00:30:36,900 --> 00:30:36,920 [Wilfredo] We got to a point that if a Puerto Rican snuck 455 00:30:36,920 --> 00:30:37,000 [Wilfredo] We got to a point that if a Puerto Rican snuck 456 00:30:38,967 --> 00:30:40,900 in or walked in and got into the pool, 457 00:30:40,967 --> 00:30:44,300 they would completely dry it out and clean it so they can refill it. 458 00:30:44,367 --> 00:30:46,700 They basically had this idea that we Puerto Ricans were dirty, 459 00:30:46,767 --> 00:30:49,100 we're unhygienic, and we were filthy. 460 00:30:50,367 --> 00:30:52,266 [narrator] For over three decades, 461 00:30:52,266 --> 00:30:55,700 the sugar mill thrived and profits soared 462 00:30:55,767 --> 00:30:59,967 at the expense of the workers segregated on their own island. 463 00:30:59,967 --> 00:31:05,800 In time the employees would fight back against the poor wages and mistreatment. 464 00:31:07,667 --> 00:31:11,000 [Claire] Beginning on the 26th of December 1934, 465 00:31:11,066 --> 00:31:16,367 a wave of strikes sets off across Puerto Rico. 466 00:31:16,367 --> 00:31:22,300 And this has huge implications for sugar processing industry. 467 00:31:23,266 --> 00:31:25,467 [Alicia] You have a number of workers 468 00:31:25,467 --> 00:31:30,667 who destroyed about 2,900 cords of sugarcane 469 00:31:30,667 --> 00:31:35,667 at an enormous loss to the factory and the factory owners. 470 00:31:35,667 --> 00:31:36,920 This was particularly catastrophic, 471 00:31:36,920 --> 00:31:37,000 This was particularly catastrophic, 472 00:31:37,967 --> 00:31:42,667 but it was effective in that they were able to negotiate some better terms. 473 00:31:44,266 --> 00:31:45,667 [Claire] Over the next decade, 474 00:31:45,667 --> 00:31:50,667 it's a constant battle to improve worker's rights and conditions, 475 00:31:50,667 --> 00:31:55,166 balanced up against the new machinery that's being brought in. 476 00:31:55,166 --> 00:31:58,266 [Wilfredo] It was not until they started to unionize and, you know, 477 00:31:58,266 --> 00:32:00,467 fight for the right for more money and more equal pay 478 00:32:00,467 --> 00:32:05,266 that when they started getting a little bit more stable in the whole community. 479 00:32:05,266 --> 00:32:06,920 [narrator] But the hard-fought rights didn't last for long. 480 00:32:06,920 --> 00:32:07,000 [narrator] But the hard-fought rights didn't last for long. 481 00:32:09,000 --> 00:32:12,367 Despite continual efforts to modernize production, 482 00:32:12,367 --> 00:32:16,400 the sugar industry here was entering a terminal decline. 483 00:32:18,867 --> 00:32:21,867 [Jim] By the mid-'60s, the boom was ending. 484 00:32:21,867 --> 00:32:24,467 The end of the road was becoming visible. 485 00:32:24,467 --> 00:32:28,000 The price of sugar was collapsing. 486 00:32:28,000 --> 00:32:31,100 [Claire] The American owners effectively abandoned the town 487 00:32:31,166 --> 00:32:34,667 and it's taken on by this local and national government. 488 00:32:34,667 --> 00:32:36,920 But by 1993, the writing was on the wall. 489 00:32:36,920 --> 00:32:37,000 But by 1993, the writing was on the wall. 490 00:32:37,967 --> 00:32:41,100 This was not a profit-making town anymore. 491 00:32:41,166 --> 00:32:45,667 And the factory closed, and with it the town just fell apart. 492 00:32:50,367 --> 00:32:54,166 [narrator] Today, the abandoned company town is no more 493 00:32:54,166 --> 00:32:58,200 than a ghost of Puerto Rico's colonial past. 494 00:32:58,266 --> 00:33:04,266 [Jim] It's fascinating to see the remnants of what was once this thriving industry, 495 00:33:04,266 --> 00:33:06,920 and also to understand the degree of exploitation that was involved in this business. 496 00:33:06,920 --> 00:33:07,000 and also to understand the degree of exploitation that was involved in this business. 497 00:33:16,867 --> 00:33:21,367 [narrator] On the island of Cyprus in the Eastern Mediterranean Sea 498 00:33:21,367 --> 00:33:23,367 is a crumbling ruin. 499 00:33:23,367 --> 00:33:26,200 Its walls tainted by tragedy. 500 00:33:31,367 --> 00:33:36,920 [Lynette] Among some pretty hills is a stone village. 501 00:33:36,920 --> 00:33:37,000 [Lynette] Among some pretty hills is a stone village. 502 00:33:37,767 --> 00:33:39,667 This is not fancy, 503 00:33:39,667 --> 00:33:44,800 but it is absolutely clear from the way this has survived 504 00:33:44,867 --> 00:33:48,667 that the people who built this place built well. 505 00:33:48,667 --> 00:33:50,567 They built to last. 506 00:33:52,467 --> 00:33:55,467 Some stone stairways are still visible 507 00:33:55,467 --> 00:34:00,500 and windows and doors give an idea of what the place used to look like. 508 00:34:00,567 --> 00:34:02,667 [Geoff] The odd assemblage of buildings 509 00:34:02,667 --> 00:34:05,166 that they could date from almost any era. 510 00:34:05,166 --> 00:34:06,920 Some look quite old, some look less old. 511 00:34:06,920 --> 00:34:07,000 Some look quite old, some look less old. 512 00:34:08,967 --> 00:34:12,166 [Dominic] The sense you get from all of this is that this is a place 513 00:34:12,166 --> 00:34:16,900 that's been inhabited down the ages and potentially by different cultures. 514 00:34:16,967 --> 00:34:19,266 [Geoff] And yet the people are all gone 515 00:34:19,266 --> 00:34:24,800 and this whole area would have been cultivated, and, yet, now it's empty. 516 00:34:24,867 --> 00:34:28,500 [narrator] What story of sorrow weighs heavy on this land? 517 00:34:28,567 --> 00:34:31,667 And why is this village now abandoned? 518 00:34:33,667 --> 00:34:35,667 [Dominic] There was an underlying divide in the country, 519 00:34:35,667 --> 00:34:36,920 which had been bubbling away for decades, 520 00:34:36,920 --> 00:34:37,000 which had been bubbling away for decades, 521 00:34:38,367 --> 00:34:41,567 came to the surface in the most violent and shocking way. 522 00:34:54,300 --> 00:34:59,667 [narrator] On the island of Cyprus is the ruin of an ancient stone village. 523 00:34:59,667 --> 00:35:01,767 For many locals in this area, 524 00:35:01,767 --> 00:35:06,767 traditional Christian belief lies at the heart of their community. 525 00:35:06,767 --> 00:35:10,467 Christodoulos Papaminas is a farmer in the neighboring village. 526 00:35:10,467 --> 00:35:15,000 He remembers fondly the simple way of life that existed here. 527 00:35:16,400 --> 00:35:16,840 [speaking other language] 528 00:35:16,840 --> 00:35:17,000 [speaking other language] 529 00:35:18,166 --> 00:35:20,900 [translator] It was a village of livestock farmers. 530 00:35:20,967 --> 00:35:23,600 People spent most of their time in the fields. 531 00:35:23,667 --> 00:35:25,300 That was their life. 532 00:35:27,800 --> 00:35:32,567 [narrator] In time, events on the island would tear this village apart. 533 00:35:32,567 --> 00:35:36,800 A single building holds the key to its sudden abandonment. 534 00:35:38,700 --> 00:35:40,200 [speaking other language] 535 00:35:40,200 --> 00:35:43,000 [translator] This used to be the mosque for the Turkish Cypriots. 536 00:35:44,667 --> 00:35:46,840 They used to come here to attend their formal worship. 537 00:35:46,840 --> 00:35:47,000 They used to come here to attend their formal worship. 538 00:35:51,467 --> 00:35:54,667 If we've got a mosque here in the village, 539 00:35:54,667 --> 00:36:00,767 this is a sign that this might have been not a Greek Orthodox village 540 00:36:00,767 --> 00:36:04,100 but a Turkish Muslim village. 541 00:36:04,100 --> 00:36:09,667 And in the history of Cyprus, in the recent history of Cyprus, that's significant. 542 00:36:11,000 --> 00:36:15,400 Cyprus has for many years been a country made up of two groups, 543 00:36:15,467 --> 00:36:16,840 the Turkish Cypriots and the Greek Cypriots. 544 00:36:16,840 --> 00:36:17,000 the Turkish Cypriots and the Greek Cypriots. 545 00:36:18,667 --> 00:36:21,600 The Greek Cypriots are predominantly Christian orthodox, 546 00:36:21,667 --> 00:36:24,900 whereas the Turkish Cypriots are predominantly Muslim. 547 00:36:24,967 --> 00:36:28,100 For many, many years they lived happily side by side. 548 00:36:29,767 --> 00:36:34,767 [narrator] This is Foinikas, a once harmonious Mediterranean village. 549 00:36:34,767 --> 00:36:39,266 In living memory, it was home to 235 people. 550 00:36:39,266 --> 00:36:44,400 Yet, in the past, life here was not always peaceful. 551 00:36:44,467 --> 00:36:46,840 [Geoff] Cyprus enjoys a really strategic location. 552 00:36:46,840 --> 00:36:47,000 [Geoff] Cyprus enjoys a really strategic location. 553 00:36:47,166 --> 00:36:50,667 And because of its key position in the Mediterranean 554 00:36:50,667 --> 00:36:56,166 and because of its relatively flourishing economy and its good natural harbors, 555 00:36:56,166 --> 00:37:00,100 Cyprus was battled over by the powers for centuries, 556 00:37:00,166 --> 00:37:03,667 the Greeks, the Romans, the Phoenicians, the Turks. 557 00:37:06,066 --> 00:37:11,667 [narrator] The run-down walls are evidence of one of the earliest occupying forces. 558 00:37:13,800 --> 00:37:16,840 In the 12th century, the Knights Templar called this place home. 559 00:37:16,840 --> 00:37:17,000 In the 12th century, the Knights Templar called this place home. 560 00:37:17,467 --> 00:37:22,467 They built the village from stones from the nearby vertical rock faces. 561 00:37:25,300 --> 00:37:28,000 [narrator] During the violent era of the Crusades, 562 00:37:28,066 --> 00:37:31,300 the Knights Templar protected European Christian travelers 563 00:37:31,367 --> 00:37:34,166 visiting sites in the Muslim-held holy land. 564 00:37:36,066 --> 00:37:41,400 The Templars want to control Cyprus 565 00:37:41,467 --> 00:37:45,567 because it will enable them to strengthen 566 00:37:45,567 --> 00:37:46,840 their control of Middle Eastern trade routes. 567 00:37:46,840 --> 00:37:47,000 their control of Middle Eastern trade routes. 568 00:37:50,266 --> 00:37:54,100 So, the Knights Templar build what they call a commandery, 569 00:37:54,166 --> 00:38:00,066 that is a command post here in this village. 570 00:38:00,066 --> 00:38:03,300 [narrator] It may have been founded at a time of religious warring, 571 00:38:03,367 --> 00:38:07,367 but over the centuries the people learned to live together. 572 00:38:07,367 --> 00:38:10,500 Through the years of coming to trade with fellow cattlemen, 573 00:38:10,567 --> 00:38:12,900 Christodoulos made many friends. 574 00:38:15,567 --> 00:38:16,840 [speaking other language] 575 00:38:16,840 --> 00:38:17,000 [speaking other language] 576 00:38:17,433 --> 00:38:22,066 [translator] One close friend I had was called Somalios, and his father, Mustafa. 577 00:38:22,066 --> 00:38:26,266 We had good relationships with the rest of the cattlers and the farmers in the village. 578 00:38:26,266 --> 00:38:29,367 We used to meet them often in a little coffee place off the village. 579 00:38:32,467 --> 00:38:36,500 The daily activities and the life in the village was pretty much the same every day. 580 00:38:40,300 --> 00:38:42,500 [narrator] But trouble was brewing. 581 00:38:42,567 --> 00:38:44,500 The religious divide, 582 00:38:44,500 --> 00:38:46,840 central to the holy wars of the Crusades, would resurface hundreds of years later. 583 00:38:46,840 --> 00:38:47,000 central to the holy wars of the Crusades, would resurface hundreds of years later. 584 00:38:50,867 --> 00:38:55,166 So, this growing tension between the Greek Christians and the Turkish Muslims 585 00:38:55,166 --> 00:38:59,367 explodes into open warfare in 1974, 586 00:38:59,367 --> 00:39:04,100 when the Greek government led by a military junta decides, 587 00:39:04,166 --> 00:39:06,266 you know, "We're going to annex the island of Cyprus 588 00:39:06,266 --> 00:39:09,166 because it's largely Greek, it belongs to Greece." 589 00:39:11,266 --> 00:39:12,834 [speaking other language] 590 00:39:12,834 --> 00:39:14,500 [translator] We were surprised to hear about the coup that morning. 591 00:39:14,567 --> 00:39:16,767 We didn't know about it before it happened. 592 00:39:16,767 --> 00:39:16,840 All hell broke loose. 593 00:39:16,840 --> 00:39:17,000 All hell broke loose. 594 00:39:19,867 --> 00:39:26,667 [Lynette] Turkey's response to the Greek Cypriot nationalist coup d'etat 595 00:39:26,667 --> 00:39:29,500 is to seek to protect 596 00:39:29,567 --> 00:39:35,667 the Turks of Cyprus by invading Cyprus. 597 00:39:35,667 --> 00:39:40,266 [narrator] The island instantly descended into violent chaos. 598 00:39:40,266 --> 00:39:41,867 In the fog of war, 599 00:39:41,867 --> 00:39:46,200 both sides were guilty of committing unforgivable atrocities. 600 00:39:46,266 --> 00:39:46,840 [Dominic] Now, neighbor feared neighbor. 601 00:39:46,840 --> 00:39:47,000 [Dominic] Now, neighbor feared neighbor. 602 00:39:48,066 --> 00:39:50,767 The atmosphere had changed. It had become dangerous. 603 00:39:50,767 --> 00:39:55,967 What once had been a peaceful landscape of coexistence had been shattered. 604 00:39:55,967 --> 00:39:57,467 It's such a waste. 605 00:39:58,667 --> 00:40:00,667 [narrator] For 30 days, 606 00:40:00,667 --> 00:40:06,900 bitter fighting raged until finally a ceasefire was agreed and the country divided up. 607 00:40:06,967 --> 00:40:12,400 And as a condition of the ceasefire, there were massive population transfers. 608 00:40:12,467 --> 00:40:16,840 Tens of thousands of Greek Christians migrated from the now Turkish zone 609 00:40:16,840 --> 00:40:17,000 Tens of thousands of Greek Christians migrated from the now Turkish zone 610 00:40:17,767 --> 00:40:21,700 in the north of the island to the now Greek zone in the south of the island. 611 00:40:21,767 --> 00:40:24,800 And the same thing happened on the other side. 612 00:40:24,867 --> 00:40:31,266 [narrator] This village on the south of the island was now part of Greek-held territory. 613 00:40:31,266 --> 00:40:34,500 The civilians of Foinikas were caught in the middle of the chaos 614 00:40:34,567 --> 00:40:36,500 and had to decide what to do. 615 00:40:36,567 --> 00:40:38,867 It had been a Turkish village for years, 616 00:40:38,867 --> 00:40:42,367 but now they were being told that they're on the wrong side of the border. 617 00:40:42,367 --> 00:40:46,400 [narrator] Fearing reprisals, the Muslim occupants fled. 618 00:40:46,467 --> 00:40:46,840 Christodoulos remembers only too well the trauma of this terrible period. 619 00:40:46,840 --> 00:40:47,000 Christodoulos remembers only too well the trauma of this terrible period. 620 00:40:53,367 --> 00:40:55,266 [speaking other language] 621 00:40:55,266 --> 00:40:57,767 [translator] It's a great sorrow for all these people 622 00:40:57,767 --> 00:41:00,066 and the loss they had to go through. 623 00:41:00,066 --> 00:41:02,166 No one can ever forget about that. 624 00:41:02,166 --> 00:41:04,467 You just become sad only by thinking about it. 625 00:41:07,300 --> 00:41:10,100 I don't believe that anyone will come here ever again. 626 00:41:10,166 --> 00:41:12,600 How can anyone be able to live here anymore? 627 00:41:22,000 --> 00:41:24,266 [narrator] Over four decades have passed 628 00:41:24,266 --> 00:41:29,300 since the shocking events that transformed this Mediterranean island. 629 00:41:29,367 --> 00:41:33,266 Yet, Cyprus is still a country divided. 630 00:41:33,266 --> 00:41:35,700 The Turks of Northern Cyprus are convinced 631 00:41:35,767 --> 00:41:38,667 that if they let their guard down for even a moment, 632 00:41:38,667 --> 00:41:40,400 the Greeks will take over. 633 00:41:40,467 --> 00:41:42,367 The Greeks of Cyprus are convinced 634 00:41:42,367 --> 00:41:46,840 that if they let their guard down for even a moment, the Turks will take over. 635 00:41:46,840 --> 00:41:47,000 that if they let their guard down for even a moment, the Turks will take over. 636 00:41:47,066 --> 00:41:50,000 And the partition of Cyprus 637 00:41:50,066 --> 00:41:56,300 remains part of the daily life of that island to this day. 66672

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