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In this lesson, we're going to learn how to do image stabilization with a track.
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OK, so I'm just starting off here in 07_begin,
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which is just going to be a blank Nuke script.
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So I want to go ahead and drop in the footage we're going to be using.
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So let's go ahead and grab your reference files folder and just grab that
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image stabilize folder and drop that onto your node graph.
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And that's going to give you the footage we're going to work with for
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the remainder of this course and for this lesson.
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So go ahead and plug your viewer in.
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And we'll go ahead and hit Play just to cache those frames
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and take a look at what we've got here.
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So we're going to be doing a lot with this clip.
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In some later lessons, we're going to learn the last type of tracking,
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which is going to be a four point track,
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and we're going to learn how we can use that with a corner
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pin to replace the screen on this phone.
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But the first thing we need to do, before we get to that point,
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is to stabilize this shot.
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So you can see that the shot was shot with a hand held camera because we've
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got quite a lot of movement around here on the edges.
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So we're going to get a cleaner looking shot and also a
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better track eventually for that four point track on the
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phone by stabilizing the image first.
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So let's go ahead and get ready to do that.
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And I want to show you an additional technique before we hook up our tracker.
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And that is using color correction to help bump up the
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contrast in your shot and therefore make your tracker have a
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little bit more accurate of a track.
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So let's go ahead and just come down here to our node graph,
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hit the Tab key, and we'll type in color.
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You just want to choose the Color Correct node.
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And you can just drop that between your read and your viewer node.
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And then let's go ahead and just come over here to Contrast and pull that up.
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Now,
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you don't want to do it too high because if you
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blow these colors completely out,
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then Nuke will actually have a worse time tracking.
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So you just want to bump up the contrast a little bit,
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just so kind of in this area over here we've got just kind
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of a better area between the chair leg or the coffee table
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leg and that black area.
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And then also let's track, let's say, this part right here,
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maybe this grout line.
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This is a great place of contrast right there.
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And because we've got this nice intersecting line,
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that's going to give us a really good pattern to track.
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Any time you have intersecting lines like that,
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it really gives you a great reference point.
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So for a image stabilization like this,
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you're definitely going to want to use two points.
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You can do a one point track,
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but because it was handheld you want to get that rotation
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information in there to help correct.
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So I'm going to go ahead and close out the color
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correct now and we'll add our tracker.
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So you can just hit the Tab key down here in your
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node graph and type in tracker.
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And that's actually going to drop the tracker on after the color correction,
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which is what we want because we want that color
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correction to be affecting the tracker,
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affecting the pixels that the tracker's looking at.
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So let's go ahead and zoom in up here on our leg of our
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coffee table and we'll add a track.
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And I'm just going to position this.
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Let's just kind of have it right here in the middle where
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this shadow kind of turns into a V.
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So kind of just right about there.
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Or you could maybe even come up here to kind of the tip of that.
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That would work as well.
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Any time you just have a feature that has a very stark contrast right around it,
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you can kind of see this area might here not be as good because
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the pixels around it might be a little closer.
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Anytime there's more contrast from pixel to pixel,
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you're going to need the best information.
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So we'll use this for our first track.
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And you want to pull this over here to the side so
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you can see your transformation, rotation,
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and scale.
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We'll just do the translation.
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And then let's move this over here and zoom in on this grout line.
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Notice if you zoom in first before adding a track,
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if I just hit a track, it's going to add that right in the middle of the viewer.
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So it's a lot easier to add or to move that closer to where you want it
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if you're zoomed in that position in the first place.
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OK, so I'm going to pull this down.
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We don't need that pattern area to be quite so large.
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And let's go ahead and turn on the translation,
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rotation, and scale for this tracker.
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Then let's zoom back out.
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And I have a feeling this one's going to be pretty easy
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compared to some of the other ones we've done,
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especially since we added this color correction.
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So let's go ahead and we'll just Shift-Select to both of those tracks.
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And it looks like this time since we've started on the 38th frame,
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we probably should have gone back to the first frame.
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But that's OK.
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We can just track backwards and then come back to frame 38 and track forwards.
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So this time let's just hit this button right here that says Track To Start.
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And that's just going to kind of automate that for us.
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That looks like, for the most part,
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that's really staying nicely in place because,
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honestly, it's not that bad of a shaky image.
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So in fact, I think with both of these tracks selected, we can just watch this.
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And just kind of looking right here,
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this really looks like it's staying in place very nicely.
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So let's just come back over here to frame 38 and we'll hit Track To End
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and finish up that track all the way through to the end.
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OK,
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so right here we've run into a little bit of an issue where our
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timeline is only showing 44 frames but clearly that tracker was
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trying to continue to go past that 44.
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So we're going to come over here to where we see
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global and change this to Input.
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And basically that's going to give us the full amount of
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frames that we have for this shot.
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So let's continue to track the rest of this shot.
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I'm just going to come back here to 74,
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which is the final frame that the track stopped on.
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And then we'll just tell it to continue to track to the end.
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And it'll track all the way to 297.
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So that's quite a few frames.
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That's a really long track.
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But again, because we don't have a lot of movement in our shot,
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that's going to be just fine to deal with even if it is a little bit
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longer than some of the other clips we've worked with.
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So while this is finishing up,
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let's go ahead and talk about what we're going to be doing next.
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So just like before, whenever we get our tracking data,
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we need to apply it to something to move the image.
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So in this case, we're not really going to have a second thing to move.
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So we've used our tracking data so far to move something around the shot.
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But basically, in this scenario,
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we want to take the tracking data and use it on the image
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itself in order that it makes the image basically move
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backwards of those movements.
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So it ends up just kind of counteracting that and what you
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end up with is a still looking shot.
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So the way that we start to apply this data is slightly
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different from what we've done in the past.
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So now that this is finished tracking, let's go ahead and apply this.
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So come over here to your Transform tab.
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And what we're going to do is to kind of look at this transformation.
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So right now the transformation is set to None.
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So this is usually going to be when you're calculating your track,
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you want this to be set to None.
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And then we can come in here and change this to the stabilize function.
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So go ahead and click that.
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And because we did a stabilization with two points,
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we'll just choose this first option, not stabilize one point.
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So just click stabilize.
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And believe it or not, that's all you have to do to apply that data to itself.
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So now let's hit the Play button again.
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And you're going to see two things happening.
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Now our image looks much more still.
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We don't have that crazy movement that we had earlier.
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But we also get this black edge here.
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So that is basically what happens whenever you move an image in this way and
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basically what's happening is it's rotating down or moving down to counteract
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that rotation and transformation information.
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And then the black outside of the image is being shown.
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So that's not what we want.
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What we'll have to do to counteract those black areas is to scale our image up.
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And one other thing that you can do before you change that is to make
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sure that the reference frame is set to the right frame.
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So right now it's still fixing this because it's very close.
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But you'll notice that our reference frame is 0 and
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this reference frame is set to one.
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So you want it to be from the first frame.
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So I'm just going to go ahead and change that to 0.
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And that's actually going to help it be a little bit closer to what it
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really should be doing to counteract that frame by frame.
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And if your sequence that you're working with,
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if you're not using our project files,
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starts on frame one then you would leave that reference frame to frame one.
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It's basically whatever first frame you have there.
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And it's usually going to be a 0 or a one.
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OK,
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so now let's go ahead and fix the scale of this so that we
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don't get those black bars on the edge.
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Now,
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what I'm going to do is kind of scrub forward to a
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place where I see the most black.
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Looks like that's mostly happening here at the top.
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So we also get a little bit down at the bottom here towards the end.
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So maybe right about there, actually.
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That's quite a bit.
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So let's go ahead and have our transform node to scale this up.
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So what I'll do is just kind of zoom out a little bit.
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And also, at this point we don't need that color correct node,
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so you can just select that and delete it,
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because we already have all our tracking data.
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That's just going to make it look a little bit less blown out.
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And you can go ahead and select that tracker because we want the
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Transform node to appear between that tracker and the viewer.
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So we'll just come over here to our Transform button,
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choose the Transform node, and that'll drop that in there for us.
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And you can see that's right there in the middle.
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Perfect.
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And let's go ahead and bump up our scale a little bit.
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So looks like right in there on 106 pushes that black right outside the edge.
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And let's just go ahead and play through.
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Just make sure that those dotted lines you see don't go on the
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inside of this solid gray line that's your frame.
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So one of the drawbacks of image stabilization is that
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you're going to lose some resolution.
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So it's not going to be actually a different size.
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It's still going to be your 1280 by 720.
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But the pixels that are there to make that up are going to be stretched a
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little bit further than they originally were intended.
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Now again, the scale is only 1.
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06, so it's not a huge change.
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You're probably not going to notice a huge difference.
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But it just kind of depends on the shot.
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So if you end up shooting things bigger than they need to
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be and then doing your stabilization,
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then you can scale them down and you'll preserve more data.
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That's actually going to be better to do it that way.
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So if you shot it at 1080 and your final output is going to be 720,
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you would want to do your transformation in between that change.
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So this is starting to look pretty good.
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So we've got our image stabilized and the tracker was set up.
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We've got that transform node in there just to bring the scale up.
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Really, really looking nice.
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So now that our footage has been stabilized,
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we're ready to learn how to do a four point track to
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replace this screen in the phone.
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And we're going to learn how to do that in our next lesson.
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