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Eߣ�B��B��B�B�B��matroskaB��B��S�g M�t�M��S��I�fS��M��S��T�kS���M��S��S�kS����M��S��T�gS����O� I�f�*ױ�B@M��libebml v1.3.9 + libmatroska v1.5.2WA�mkvmerge v37.0.0 ('Leave It') 64-bitD��AG�" Da� �ʀ�+ s��
9D�,a�.�SL���T�k���ׁsň=�ظ?K���� �� ��S_TEXT/UTF8Sn�English [SDH]�D% C�u�������� [TV static drones]��㠗���� [bright tone]��>C�u�������� [waves crash]��g�����g [Tibetan singing bowl ringing]���C�u��Dm����� [dramatic music]�������� ♪ ♪���C�u@��p����� As the wave
starts sucking up,��������� sucking up, sucking up,��Ҡš��t there's this frozen moment
where it's drawing me up��
�C�u@�炋"����� like a rollercoaster.��������� Like, clink, clink,
clink, clink.�������� I could just see
the entire scene.��VC�u@�炥
����� It was like I was higher
than the cliff,�� 𠱡�� � and I could see
the cliff there��y�����i with all the people.��C�u�炾�� Everyone's watching this.������� I feel the shadow of the lip���C�u���ߠ���� coming up over the back,
right?��y�����K And I put my arm out like this
to break my fall...��C�u���8����� and then I fall.��O�����O ♪ ♪��MC�u��Ԡ���� In that moment,��������� the violence
knocked me into submission.���C�u@��+J����� Just complete chaos--��y�����y spinning, cartwheels,
front flips, back flips.�� 𠶡��i I don't know
which way is up at all.���C�u��L������ I'm going deeper, deeper.
Seems like forever.������� And then... shh.��C�u��gh����� Goes quiet.��<����� In that present moment,���C�u@��}g����� I went through my whole
life review journey������� underwater.��ޠ����� [somber music]���C�u@���7����� It was my whole entire life
in that moment.������� - Look at him.
- Gosh.��������
3 Look at him.��ݠ���� Like, my whole life
is there in the water.���C�u@������ ♪ ♪��h�����h It's, like, the fear,��<������ the love, the stress, the--
all of it.��
nC�u�������� It was all in one.��%�����% ♪ ♪���C�u���h����� [drone whirring distantly]��
nC�u@�������� I mean, it felt
like five minutes went by��Πš��� before the guys on the beach
said that they could spot him���C�u��,a����� way up north
in the shore break.��C�u@��G������ I come up one time,
I see Alemao.��͠����� He's coming, I'm like,
"Oh, my God, I'm saved.��ݠ����� Thank God."�������� I'm startin' to sense���C�u@��`����� something hurts in my arm,
you know?��������� [Jet Ski drones]
Grabs my hand,��Ҡ����� hurts so bad I go, "Aaah!"��C�u@��t������ [muffled yelling]�� ������ � When I tried to grab him,��[������ he starts to pale.
He say, "No, no, no."��
C�u��������� So I planned.
I go to the beach.�� ����� And I swim back��y������ and then run to ask for him.�� �C�u���}����� [groans]��1C�u���Š���� - [moaning]
- All right.�� Ǡ���� � [indistinct chatter]��1������ [groans]��6C�u����� Breathe, buddy.
Breathe, buddy.��������� It fuckin' hurts.��y�����- We need some kind
of a splint.���C�u@����� Does anyone know what to do?��%�����% Don't move my arm right now.�������� - [moans]
- [speaking native language]��yC�u������� - No, no.
- [groans]�� ����� It was horrific.��[�����z That sick, like,
anxious feeling that--���C�u@��3-����� like, I just saw his arm,
I was like--��1�����1 - Aah!
- [speaking native language]��������� - Dislocated or broken?
- No, no, no, it's broken.��+C�u��LD����� [moans] Don't touch it.��yC�u��f������ [groans]��1�����1 He was alive.��U�����
� Just... that was all
that I was hoping for.���C�u@��������� You're hurt.
You need support.��O�����O Garrett, can you give me
an update?��+�����z - [speaking native language]
- He's fine.��ZC�u���ˠ���� He broke his elbow.��P�����P We're coming down, okay?��נ����' - Let's go.
- Mm-kay.���C�u���w����� - What, are you--
- Fuck, just--aah! Stop!��
C�����
C Whoa, whoa, whoa,
whoa, whoa.���C�u���砓��� [exhales]��
�����
2 I don't know exactly.��C�u�������� - [indistinct chatter]
- [groans]��O�����O CJ, hold on, brother.
Hold on, man.��
�C�u���C����� [moody sweeping music]��ߠ����� ♪ ♪��_C�u@�������� {\an8}Just keep breathing,
a nice nasal breathing.��h�����h {\an8}- Nice and slow.
- [exhales]�������� {\an8}Three seconds in.��1C�u��3Ƞ���� {\an8}Ten seconds out.
[exhales]��
C�u��H̠���� {\an8}♪ ♪��5C�u��k������ {\an8}[indistinct chatter]
[monitor beeping]��������� {\an8}You've got this CJ. Breathe.��&C�u���堢��� {\an8}Through your nose.��ݠ����� [siren wails]��
m�����J ♪ ♪���C�u��탠���� {\an8}Yeah, yeah.��������� So what should I do, Cotty?��C�u��
Y����� {\an8}Okay.��������� {\an8}[engine revving]���C�u@��3h����� [exhales]��������� You know, I was,
like, in shock.��[����� I thought he was dead.
I thought he'd drowned.���C�u@��I=����� You know, like, there were
seven minutes there��`�����` where I thought he drowned.��1������ ♪ ♪��hC�u��`6����� It's like a fucking
car accident.��~�����~ You know? It's like being...���C�u@���g����� There's so many of us
working together,��̠����� and you still lose someone.��y�����E You know? Like...��C�u��������� ♪ ♪��
m�����
m Fuck. It's a fuckin'
head-fuck innit?�� C�u@���T����� - Is he all right?
- Yeah.��f�����f - He's fine.
- Yeah?�������� - Okay.
- He's in pain, but alive.��������� - Happy New Year.
- That's all that matters.���C�u������ You going?
I'll let you go.��������� - Thank you.
- Thank you.��Z����� Hey, send a big hug for CJ.��,C�u�������� And, uh... fuck.���C�u��-������ Too heavy.
[inhales, exhales]��
2C�u��A������ {\an8}[speaking English]���C�u��]������ We were all, like,
still scared of the situation.��
꠫���
� So, yeah,
it was really intense.��C�u@������ When you do
big wave surfing,��������� it's not a science.��7�����- You have to accept��������� that sometimes
she's gonna fall.���C�u@��������� And I know
one day I will miss her.��
������
� What I didn't expect
is to miss her��͠����d on the biggest day,
on the biggest wave,��
C�u��������� {\an8}on the biggest fall
of her life.�� C�u���蠣��� {\an8}[in English]��U�����U For sure.
Worst experience in Nazaré.��bC�u�������� Yeah.��㠡���g {\an8}[speaking French]���C�u@��v������ I've always seen her
like a superhero.������� Like, uh...��������' nothing can happen to her,
you know?��yC�u@���9����� Like, the worst thing
happened to her and she--��������� she came out safe.��������� So, like, she's still
a superhero.��ZC�u���7����� [chuckles]��g�����g {\an8}[in French]���C�u��裂���� {\an8}- [chuckles]
- [sighs heavily]��C�u��,l����� {\an8}[in English]���C�u��S2����� {\an8}[in French]���C�u��ő����� [both chuckle]��
�����
♪ ♪��堧���� After this experience,���C�u@���1����� yeah, the first thought was,
"Okay, let's get married.��>�����> "Let's have kids.�������E Let's enjoy life
on a normal way."��
�C�u���O����� {\an8}And...��͠����� [chuckles] Just few days.
Just few days.���C�u�� ����� And then the--��
�����
the second big wave contest
in Nazaré happened.���C�u�� +����� [scooter buzzing]��נ���� s {\an8}[in English]���C�u�� d������ There was a few days passed��̠����� and I get an email sayin'
the contest is on.��
\C�u@�� �蠴��� And I was almost over
the contest anyway.��+�����+ Like, I'm over that.�������� The season, getting worried
about, like,��C�u�� �S����� what my vision
and my goals were,��������� like, never really quite
really hittin' it.��
�C�u@�� ���� I don't know, I just feel
like a bit of a kook,��ؠ����� and a feel a bit of, like...�� ������ I feel like kind of a joke,
you know? Like--��UC�u�� �^����� {\an8}[continues in English]��ؠ����� {\an8}♪ ♪���C�u�� �砪��� {\an8}[both speaking Portuguese]���C�u��
������ {\an8}[speaking Portuguese]���C�u��
������� ♪ ♪��5C�u@��
�$����� Uh, yeah, Justine,
we are here checking the waves.������� But the current is, like,
really big and really bumpy.���C�u��
�5����� The waves are really messy.������� So, yeah, let me know��������� what are your plans
for tomorrow.���C�u��
콠���� Let me know.��
�����
{\an8}[continues in English]���C�u�������� [soft music]��g�����? {\an8}[in English]�� �C�u@��^�� - Ah. Everything okay?
- Yeah. And you?��
�����
- Yeah.
- You know what?�������! - It's scary, but in fact...
- It's part of the game.��
nC�u@��y������ Yeah. Wipeout and everything������� - and...[sighs]
- It's part of the game.��
����� Yeah.
It's part of the game, eh?��7C�u@��������� The first thing
that I was thinking about,��������� it was, like,
first, having a rest,��
������ but then going
back to the water���C�u@�������� and being able
to surf a wave again.��
�����
So we did that with Tony.��������� It's kind of breaking the ice,
you know?��
CC�u@�������� I didn't want to go out, no.��,�ġ��, You say, like, "Yeah, let's go
for a tow session."��������" And I'm like,
"Yeah, okay, we can go,��C�u@���0�ġ�� but I'm just going to drive.
Like, I don't want to surf."��͠����� You're sure, Tony, yeah?
You're sure?��
������d - No.
- Oh là là.��yC�u���
����� Tony and I,
we were nervous for sure.��������� ♪ ♪��
mC�u������� {\an8}[continues in English]���C�u@��7O����� I was still, like, scared,��y�����y but I was with Justine.
I was with Fred.��Ҡ����K I was--my father
on the cliff,��ZC�u��M������ so I felt kind of safe.��P������ [Jet Ski drones]���C�u��d����� ♪ ♪��g�ơ��g She was the one that helped me
to overcome that fear��bC�u��{校��� and that trauma.�� J����� J {\an8}[continues in English]�� IC�u��������� - Yeah.
- Yeah.��`C�u��������� ♪ ♪��P�����P [whistle blows]
[giggles]��[C�u@��몠���� Perfect.����ơ��� I'm happy because I know
that it was a tough winter,��a����� but it was important.
Like, you need to have��
�C�u@��
������ this time
that you are thinking a lot,��y�����y that you are questioning yourself��
������ to know
exactly what you want to do��C�u@��
!D����� and how you want to do��������� and with who
you want to do it.��Ҡ����
\ So now I know
what I want to do,�� �C�u��
8g����� with who, and how.��C�u��
SI����� [indistinct chatter]��������� [meat sizzles]��������� {\an8}[both speaking Portuguese]��
\C�u@��
tؠ���� {\an8}[in English]��������� {\an8}- Ooh, la, la.
- [chuckles]��
������ Oh, these aren't the...
[murmurs].�� �C�u��
�=����� Again, hey.��������� {\an8}[continues in English]��
mC�u@��
�]����� - Yeah? Yeah?
- Yeah, obviously.��U�����U - Sure. Like, it's okay...
- No, yeah, yeah.��ݠ����
2 - And, uh...
- Really yes. Yeah.��
nC�u@��
������� Finally, I'm in the contest.��������� And I just went, like...��U������ You know? Mind-blowing.
Like, wha?���C�u@��
㢠���� And you need to tell me
the truth all the time, eh?�� 𠣡�� � We are, like, same level.��������� Like, "Oh, Justine,
you fucked up��fC�u��
������� this on the wave, on the..."������� And that make me feel,
like, really happy��WC�u@��R����� just like [indistinct]
not happy.��̠����� After, like,
a long time waiting,��y�����E I'm finally in the contest.���C�u@��#,����� Nice. [chuckles]��Ҡ����� - [clicks tongue] Yeah.
- Nice.��������b Good luck too.
Me too. Me too.��ޠ����@ - So...
- Nice, nice, nice.���C�u@��; ����� It was just
something natural.������� We didn't really think
too much.��������
� Like, uh,
he's a Portuguese kid.���C�u@��Qr����� He's been dreaming
of doing that contest.������� Since the first year
we come here,��Ҡ����� we've seen him
in the water evolving.���C�u@��h����� And I can do
the safety for them,�� ����� so I can still share--
share the adventure.�������� Ah. [chuckles]��[C�u�������� {\an8}[speaking Portuguese]���C�u@���根��� Eh, the WSL just need
the approval of Garrett.��������� - Of Garrett.
- Yeah.��頰���� - Okay, okay, okay.
- So you've got--���C�u@���Q����� you are okay with Garrett?��f�����f - Have you seen--
- I have, yeah, yeah, yeah.��7����� � [chuckles]��6������ Justine told me
she really likes his driving,���C�u���Ǡ���� so I trusted Justine.��������� And I was excited
to see them surf together.��C�u���Ѡ���� {\an8}[speaking Portuguese]�� ����� {\an8}[chuckles]��+C�u���q����� [birds calling]��~�����
[soft music]��>C�u�������� ♪ ♪������� Ooh.���C�u��0)����� [chuckles]������� It's so numb.��U�����i It feels so weird.���C�u@��HF����� Every time I put it up here,��頯���� it just doesn't feel
like it's mine.��
����� What do you feel in this arm?���C�u��]�� Mm, tingle. Like, cold--cold.��ߠ����� When I saw my arm
flopping around,��
�C�u@��ug����� loose at my elbow joint,��������� you know,
I thought it was broken.�������
� It ended up being dislocated,��UC�u@���B����� and I was really grateful
for that.��������� But, damn, I realized��f�����a the seriousness
of a dislocation.��C�u���"����� Ooh.��������� You can move this and this.������� You'll not move this.
both: Yep.��UC�u@��������� He didn't walk
out of there��g�����g like, totally defeated,
you know?��������� He walked out of there
grateful to be alive,�� C�u��� ���� grateful that it was��1�����1 "just a dislocated elbow."
[chuckles]���C�u��������� - I got you!
- Got you.��Ҡ����� - Got you!
- Do you want it right there?��������{ That was awesome.��`C�u@��������� - Sure, yeah.
- I wanna watch this.��+�����+ The takeaway
of this whole experience�������- is why am I risking my life?
What's it for?��,C�u�������� What am I seeking, you know?��h�����h What's the need?
Is that worth the risk?���C�u@��1A����� You know,
it's not even the injury.��������� Forget the injury.
It's the fact that, you know,��
������ he almost died
and was lost at sea.��&C�u@��H:����� That's the real trauma to me.��������� He didn't know
if anybody was gonna save him.��������J He didn't know if he was gonna
make it to the beach.���C�u��a'����� Most people
would probably have died.��
������t What an experience.���C�u��wy����� I wasn't sure
if I could survive it.��������� And life brought me
to that point��C�u@���1����� of getting to see.��U�����U I didn't die, but I got to see
all the confidence��O������ and the training and everything
I've done in my life��+C�u��� ����� and, like, earn that.��������� ♪ ♪��
D������ I'm spared by Mother Ocean,��yC�u@���k����� by Yemanjá.��y�����y I have new life.
What do I do with that?�� ������ Do I keep surfing giant waves?��1C�u@���4����� Is that my highest calling?
[exhales]��Ҡ����� Why do I feel that I need�������� such an extreme circumstance��
�C�u��𰠨��� in order to feel alive?�� �C�u��j����� I don't know. I don't know.��
������
� I don't know what I want.��%C�u@��K����� {\an8}I do care about the contest,��������� but I don't want to make
too much of a fuss about it.��~�����z Like, I was just
so disappointed last time.��
DC�u���䠾��� I just needed to sort of,
like, reset a little bit.��
C�u@���q����� So light winds are here,��1�����1 and the strong winds
are this band here.��Ҡ���� And Mullaghmore's
right in the middle.���C�u���F����� That fat--look at--here.��UC�u��X������ ♪ ♪����š��� So goin' to Ireland tonight
for the swell tomorrow.���C�u@��zO����� It was like a gamble,��������� but I was like,
"I'm goin'. I'm gonna do it."�������� {\an8}[in English]��yC�u��������� ♪ ♪���C�u@��������� You all right, mate?��������� - Nice to see you.
- How are you?��ݠ����
m - You all right?
- Yeah. Yeah.��7������ So this is Justine.��������c - Justine, hey.
- This is Taz.���C�u���n����� {\an8}[continues in English]��b������ {\an8}It's where he got
his first big wave.��8C�u���>����� {\an8}♪ ♪���C�u��
,����� {\an8}- Yeah, it's where me and Al--�� ����� you know,
it's where we went through���C�u������� sort of thick and thin, really.�������� It's big.
[chuckles]��C�u��5�¡�� You know, I've had, like,
some horrific wipeouts there.��Ӡ����� [yelling]���C�u��J]����� Oh, my God!��Ҡ����� But I've also had
some of my best waves...��
�C�u��_������ and the best feelings
of surfing also.��~�����~ [indistinct chatter]�� s������ Yeee!��fC�u��u����� - [yells]
- [chuckles]��������� So, yeah, it is
quite relevant to me.���C�u��������� It's where it all began.�� ��� [door rattles]��
�C�u���;����� [moody music]��
C�����
C ♪ ♪��EC�u@���à���� It's such a crazy,
warp-y, boil-y thing��������� that goes on at Mully,�������
'cause you've got
this deep hole���C�u@���P����� inside the shelf,
and then it comes up��������� and over the shelf
and then sucks around.��������' ♪ ♪��C�u��������� Get rid of the anxiety
a little bit��`�����` and then, uh, get surf,
I suppose, innit?�� sC�u@�������� Just, I want it to be--
you know, you want it������� to be good, don't you?��
�����, Maybe it's not anxiety.
Maybe it's nerves.���C�u@��$[����� Just a bit nervous, you know?
[sniffs]��������g You're chasin' the feeling�������n of that first wave, you know?���C�u@��;S�š�� Like, the reason why you
fell in love with surfing.��������� And yeah, okay,
it's become a job��%������ and become
something different,���C�u@��P������ but it should be just surfing.��+�����+ Just riding waves
and having fun.��������� [sweeping music]���C�u��pG����� ♪ ♪��5C�u@���|����� For me to go back to Ireland,��+�����+ it was almost
like I just stepped��㠝��� back to, like, 2007�� sC�u@�����ɡÁ with just me and Al out there.
Do you know what I mean? Like--�� Ǡ���� � And that's what it felt like.��+������ [chuckles]��%C�u@���{����� When you get into that flow
with the ocean,��+�����+ when you do find that rhythm��1�����
\ and then it sort of gels,
it's like...���C�u��،����� it's a really, really
magical feeling.��
�����
[sweeping orchestral music]���C�u���&����� ♪ ♪���C�u��ؠ���� It was good to have
that feeling back.�� s����� s Yeah!��Ҡ����E [laughing]��
C�u@��,Ǡ���� It's just all meant to be.��1�����1 Do you know what?��������� It actually turned
everything around.��1������ It was just, like...��C�u��E������ again, like, reset.�� I����� I ♪ ♪��_C�u@���J����� And then it was like,
come back to Nazaré��͠����� for the WSL contest.��+������ {\an8}- Yo, I'm tellin' you
right now, man,��yC�u@��������� {\an8}like, this is our event,
you know?��
������
� {\an8}- Yeah.
- There's really nobody else��T������ {\an8}that has put in more time
on Jet Skis�� C�u@���Ơ���� {\an8}and towing into waves.��a�����a Like, if we're gonna
win something,��נ����8 this is a good one, you know?�������: Yeah. I--I totally agree. Yeah.���C�u��������� I'll see you
bright and early.��頏���� Yeah.��
�����: {\an8}[bell tolling distantly]�� �C�u��C����� {\an8}[speaking Portuguese]���C�u��0'����� Yeah.��������� Okay.��������o Relax the muscles now.
Relax everything.���C�u��R������ And just think
about the breathing, okay?�� s����� s You control your breath.���C�u��m������ Now you're completely relaxed.�� �C�u���-����� [seagulls calling]��%�����% [pop music plays]�� Ǡ����� So what? We got you in.
Are you happy or what?��C�u���'����� - Yeah, finally.
- [chuckles]������� - No, I-I'm stoked.
- Dave said, "What are you--�� JC�u@��������� green light or--"
"I'm up."�� ����� - Thank you.
- [chuckles] Yeah.��������� - António Laureano.
- António.���C�u��Դ����� Three.��f�����f {\an8}Tony, Tony.
[overlapping chatter]��Ҡ����8 {\an8}[in English]��UC�u@���g����� It's weird.
Like, it's the first time.��O�¡��O But it feels really good.
It feels really, really good.�� ������� [light applause]��TC�u�������� {\an8}[in Portuguese]���C�u@��H������ - Good luck, huh?
- [chuckles]��1�����1 - Stay safe.��1�����b - Let's go.
- See you.��頲���K - See you tomorrow.
- Good night, guys.��C�u��\蠛��� See you tomorrow.��
����� � [dramatic music]��,C�u��u����� {\an8}♪ ♪���C�u��������� {\an8}[exhales]�� ������ � {\an8}Okay.
[murmuring] be here.��C�u��������� {\an8}Good morning.��������
{\an8}Good morning.��
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