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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: Eߣ�B��B��B�B�B��matroskaB��B��S�gM�t�M��S��I�fS��M��S��T�kS���M��S��S�kS����M��S��T�gS����O�I�f�*ױ�B@M��libebml v1.3.9 + libmatroska v1.5.2WA�mkvmerge v37.0.0 ('Leave It') 64-bitD��AG�"Da� �ʀ�+s�� 9D� ,a�.�SL���T�k���ׁsň=�ظ?K��������S_TEXT/UTF8Sn�English [SDH]�D%C�u��������[TV static drones]��㠗����[bright tone]�� >C�u��������[waves crash]�� g����� g[Tibetan singing bowl ringing]�� �C�u��Dm�����[dramatic music]�� ������♪ ♪���C�u@��p�����As the wave starts sucking up,���������sucking up, sucking up,��Ҡš��tthere's this frozen moment where it's drawing me up�� �C�u@�炋"�����like a rollercoaster.���������Like, clink, clink, clink, clink.������� �I could just see the entire scene.��VC�u@�炥 �����It was like I was higher than the cliff,�� 𠱡�� �and I could see the cliff there��y�����iwith all the people.��C�u�炾򠪡��Everyone's watching this.�������I feel the shadow of the lip���C�u���ߠ����coming up over the back, right?��y�����KAnd I put my arm out like this to break my fall...�� C�u���8�����and then I fall.��O�����O♪ ♪��MC�u��Ԡ����In that moment,���������the violence knocked me into submission.���C�u@��+J�����Just complete chaos--��y�����yspinning, cartwheels, front flips, back flips.�� 𠶡��iI don't know which way is up at all.���C�u��L������I'm going deeper, deeper. Seems like forever.��Π�����And then... shh.�� C�u��gh�����Goes quiet.��<�����In that present moment,���C�u@��}g�����I went through my whole life review journey�� ����� underwater.��ޠ�����[somber music]�� �C�u@���7�����It was my whole entire life in that moment.�������- Look at him. - Gosh.�������� 3Look at him.��ݠ����Like, my whole life is there in the water.���C�u@������♪ ♪�� h����� hIt's, like, the fear,��<������the love, the stress, the-- all of it.�� nC�u��������It was all in one.��%�����%♪ ♪���C�u���h�����[drone whirring distantly]�� nC�u@�� ������I mean, it felt like five minutes went by��Πš���before the guys on the beach said that they could spot him���C�u��,a�����way up north in the shore break.��C�u@��G������I come up one time, I see Alemao.��͠�����He's coming, I'm like, "Oh, my God, I'm saved.��ݠ�����Thank God."��������I'm startin' to sense���C�u@��`�����something hurts in my arm, you know?���������[Jet Ski drones] Grabs my hand,��Ҡ�����hurts so bad I go, "Aaah!"��C�u@��t������[muffled yelling]�� ������ �When I tried to grab him,��[������he starts to pale. He say, "No, no, no."�� C�u���������So I planned. I go to the beach.�� ����� And I swim back��y������and then run to ask for him.�� �C�u���}�����[groans]��1C�u���Š����- [moaning] - All right.�� Ǡ���� �[indistinct chatter]��1������[groans]��6C�u���󠪡��Breathe, buddy. Breathe, buddy.���������It fuckin' hurts.��y�����-We need some kind of a splint.���C�u@���򠦡��Does anyone know what to do?��%�����%Don't move my arm right now.��������- [moans] - [speaking native language]��yC�u�������- No, no. - [groans]�� ����� It was horrific.��[�����zThat sick, like, anxious feeling that--���C�u@��3-�����like, I just saw his arm, I was like--��1�����1- Aah! - [speaking native language]�� �������- Dislocated or broken? - No, no, no, it's broken.��+C�u��LD�����[moans] Don't touch it.��yC�u��f������[groans]��1�����1He was alive.��U����� �Just... that was all that I was hoping for.���C�u@���������You're hurt. You need support.��O�����OGarrett, can you give me an update?��+�����z- [speaking native language] - He's fine.��ZC�u���ˠ����He broke his elbow.��P�����PWe're coming down, okay?��נ����'- Let's go. - Mm-kay.���C�u���w�����- What, are you-- - Fuck, just--aah! Stop!�� C����� CWhoa, whoa, whoa, whoa, whoa.���C�u���砓���[exhales]�� ����� 2I don't know exactly.��C�u��������- [indistinct chatter] - [groans]��O�����OCJ, hold on, brother. Hold on, man.�� �C�u���C�����[moody sweeping music]�� ߠ���� �♪ ♪��_C�u@��������{\an8}Just keep breathing, a nice nasal breathing.�� h����� h{\an8}- Nice and slow. - [exhales]��������{\an8}Three seconds in.��1C�u��3Ƞ����{\an8}Ten seconds out. [exhales]�� C�u��H̠����{\an8}♪ ♪��5C�u��k������{\an8}[indistinct chatter] [monitor beeping]�� �������{\an8}You've got this CJ. Breathe.��&C�u���堢���{\an8}Through your nose.��ݠ�����[siren wails]�� m�����J♪ ♪���C�u��탠����{\an8}Yeah, yeah.���������So what should I do, Cotty?�� C�u�� Y�����{\an8}Okay.���������{\an8}[engine revving]�� �C�u@��3h�����[exhales]���������You know, I was, like, in shock.��[�����I thought he was dead. I thought he'd drowned.���C�u@��I=�����You know, like, there were seven minutes there��`�����`where I thought he drowned.��1����� �♪ ♪�� hC�u��`6�����It's like a fucking car accident.��~�����~You know? It's like being...���C�u@���g�����There's so many of us working together,��̠�����and you still lose someone.��y�����EYou know? Like...��C�u���������♪ ♪�� m����� mFuck. It's a fuckin' head-fuck innit?�� C�u@���T�����- Is he all right? - Yeah.��f�����f- He's fine. - Yeah?�������� - Okay. - He's in pain, but alive.���������- Happy New Year. - That's all that matters.���C�u������You going? I'll let you go.���������- Thank you. - Thank you.��Z����� Hey, send a big hug for CJ.��,C�u��������And, uh... fuck.���C�u��-������Too heavy. [inhales, exhales]�� 2C�u��A������{\an8}[speaking English]���C�u��]������We were all, like, still scared of the situation.�� ꠫��� �So, yeah, it was really intense.�� C�u@���꠯���When you do big wave surfing,���������it's not a science.��7�����-You have to accept���������that sometimes she's gonna fall.���C�u@���������And I know one day I will miss her.�� ������ �What I didn't expect is to miss her��͠����don the biggest day, on the biggest wave,�� C�u���������{\an8}on the biggest fall of her life.�� C�u���蠣���{\an8}[in English]��U�����UFor sure. Worst experience in Nazaré.�� bC�u��������Yeah.��㠡��� g{\an8}[speaking French]���C�u@��v������I've always seen her like a superhero.�������Like, uh...��������'nothing can happen to her, you know?��yC�u@���9�����Like, the worst thing happened to her and she--���������she came out safe.���������So, like, she's still a superhero.��ZC�u���7�����[chuckles]��g�����g{\an8}[in French]���C�u��裂����{\an8}- [chuckles] - [sighs heavily]�� C�u��,l�����{\an8}[in English]�� �C�u��S2�����{\an8}[in French]���C�u��ő�����[both chuckle]�� ����� ♪ ♪�� 堧����After this experience,���C�u@���1�����yeah, the first thought was, "Okay, let's get married.�� >����� >"Let's have kids.�������ELet's enjoy life on a normal way."�� �C�u���O�����{\an8}And...��͠�����[chuckles] Just few days. Just few days.���C�u�� �����And then the--�� ����� the second big wave contest in Nazaré happened.���C�u�� +�����[scooter buzzing]��נ���� s{\an8}[in English]�� �C�u�� d������There was a few days passed��̠�����and I get an email sayin' the contest is on.�� \C�u@�� �蠴���And I was almost over the contest anyway.��+�����+Like, I'm over that.��������The season, getting worried about, like,��C�u�� �S�����what my vision and my goals were,���������like, never really quite really hittin' it.�� �C�u@�� �à����I don't know, I just feel like a bit of a kook,��ؠ�����and a feel a bit of, like...�� ������I feel like kind of a joke, you know? Like--��UC�u�� �^�����{\an8}[continues in English]��ؠ�����{\an8}♪ ♪���C�u�� �砪���{\an8}[both speaking Portuguese]���C�u�� ������{\an8}[speaking Portuguese]���C�u�� �������♪ ♪��5C�u@�� �$�����Uh, yeah, Justine, we are here checking the waves.�������But the current is, like, really big and really bumpy.���C�u�� �5�����The waves are really messy.�������So, yeah, let me know�������� �what are your plans for tomorrow.���C�u�� 콠����Let me know.�� ����� {\an8}[continues in English]�� �C�u�� ������[soft music]�� g�����?{\an8}[in English]�� �C�u@�� ^򠲡��- Ah. Everything okay? - Yeah. And you?�� ����� - Yeah. - You know what?�������!- It's scary, but in fact... - It's part of the game.�� nC�u@�� y������Yeah. Wipeout and everything�������- and...[sighs] - It's part of the game.�� ����� Yeah. It's part of the game, eh?��7C�u@�� �������The first thing that I was thinking about,���������it was, like, first, having a rest,�� ������but then going back to the water���C�u@�� ������and being able to surf a wave again.�� ����� So we did that with Tony.���������It's kind of breaking the ice, you know?�� CC�u@�� ������I didn't want to go out, no.��,�ġ��,You say, like, "Yeah, let's go for a tow session."��������"And I'm like, "Yeah, okay, we can go,�� C�u@�� �0�ġ��but I'm just going to drive. Like, I don't want to surf."��͠�����You're sure, Tony, yeah? You're sure?�� ������d- No. - Oh là là.��yC�u�� � �����Tony and I, we were nervous for sure.�� ������ �♪ ♪�� mC�u�� �����{\an8}[continues in English]�� �C�u@�� 7O�����I was still, like, scared,��y�����ybut I was with Justine. I was with Fred.��Ҡ����KI was--my father on the cliff,��ZC�u�� M������so I felt kind of safe.��P������[Jet Ski drones]���C�u�� d�����♪ ♪�� g�ơ�� gShe was the one that helped me to overcome that fear�� bC�u�� {校���and that trauma.�� J����� J{\an8}[continues in English]�� IC�u�� �������- Yeah. - Yeah.��`C�u�� �������♪ ♪��P�����P[whistle blows] [giggles]��[C�u@�� 몠����Perfect.����ơ���I'm happy because I know that it was a tough winter,�� a�����but it was important. Like, you need to have�� �C�u@�� ������this time that you are thinking a lot,��y�����ythat you are questioning yourself�� ������to know exactly what you want to do��C�u@�� !D�����and how you want to do���������and with who you want to do it.��Ҡ���� \So now I know what I want to do,�� �C�u�� 8g�����with who, and how.��C�u�� SI�����[indistinct chatter]���������[meat sizzles]���������{\an8}[both speaking Portuguese]�� \C�u@�� tؠ����{\an8}[in English]���������{\an8}- Ooh, la, la. - [chuckles]�� ������Oh, these aren't the... [murmurs].�� �C�u�� �=�����Again, hey.���������{\an8}[continues in English]�� mC�u@�� �]�����- Yeah? Yeah? - Yeah, obviously.��U�����U- Sure. Like, it's okay... - No, yeah, yeah.��ݠ���� 2- And, uh... - Really yes. Yeah.�� nC�u@�� �������Finally, I'm in the contest.���������And I just went, like...��U������You know? Mind-blowing. Like, wha?���C�u@�� 㢠����And you need to tell me the truth all the time, eh?�� 𠣡�� �We are, like, same level.���������Like, "Oh, Justine, you fucked up��fC�u�� �������this on the wave, on the..."�������And that make me feel, like, really happy��WC�u@��R�����just like [indistinct] not happy.��̠�����After, like, a long time waiting,��y�����EI'm finally in the contest.���C�u@��#,�����Nice. [chuckles]��Ҡ�����- [clicks tongue] Yeah. - Nice.�������� bGood luck too. Me too. Me too.��ޠ����@- So... - Nice, nice, nice.���C�u@��; �����It was just something natural.�������We didn't really think too much.�������� �Like, uh, he's a Portuguese kid.�� �C�u@��Qr�����He's been dreaming of doing that contest.�������Since the first year we come here,��Ҡ�����we've seen him in the water evolving.���C�u@��h�����And I can do the safety for them,�� ����� so I can still share-- share the adventure.��������Ah. [chuckles]��[C�u��������{\an8}[speaking Portuguese]�� �C�u@���根���Eh, the WSL just need the approval of Garrett.���������- Of Garrett. - Yeah.��頰����- Okay, okay, okay. - So you've got--���C�u@���Q�����you are okay with Garrett?��f�����f- Have you seen-- - I have, yeah, yeah, yeah.��7����� �[chuckles]��6������Justine told me she really likes his driving,���C�u���Ǡ����so I trusted Justine.���������And I was excited to see them surf together.�� C�u���Ѡ����{\an8}[speaking Portuguese]�� ����� {\an8}[chuckles]��+C�u���q�����[birds calling]��~����� [soft music]�� >C�u��������♪ ♪�������Ooh.���C�u��0)�����[chuckles]�� ����� It's so numb.��U�����iIt feels so weird.���C�u@��HF�����Every time I put it up here,��頯����it just doesn't feel like it's mine.�� �����What do you feel in this arm?���C�u��]񠧡��Mm, tingle. Like, cold--cold.�� ߠ���� �When I saw my arm flopping around,�� �C�u@��ug�����loose at my elbow joint,���������you know, I thought it was broken.������� �It ended up being dislocated,��UC�u@���B�����and I was really grateful for that.���������But, damn, I realized��f����� athe seriousness of a dislocation.��C�u���"�����Ooh.���������You can move this and this.�������You'll not move this. both: Yep.��UC�u@���������He didn't walk out of there��g�����glike, totally defeated, you know?�� �������He walked out of there grateful to be alive,�� C�u��� ����grateful that it was��1�����1"just a dislocated elbow." [chuckles]���C�u���������- I got you! - Got you.��Ҡ�����- Got you! - Do you want it right there?��������{That was awesome.��`C�u@���������- Sure, yeah. - I wanna watch this.��+�����+The takeaway of this whole experience�������-is why am I risking my life? What's it for?��,C�u��������What am I seeking, you know?�� h����� hWhat's the need? Is that worth the risk?�� �C�u@��1A�����You know, it's not even the injury.���������Forget the injury. It's the fact that, you know,�� ������he almost died and was lost at sea.��&C�u@��H:�����That's the real trauma to me.���������He didn't know if anybody was gonna save him.��������JHe didn't know if he was gonna make it to the beach.���C�u��a'�����Most people would probably have died.�� ������tWhat an experience.���C�u��wy�����I wasn't sure if I could survive it.���������And life brought me to that point�� C�u@���1�����of getting to see.��U�����UI didn't die, but I got to see all the confidence��O������and the training and everything I've done in my life��+C�u��������and, like, earn that.���������♪ ♪�� D������I'm spared by Mother Ocean,��yC�u@���k�����by Yemanjá.��y�����yI have new life. What do I do with that?�� ������Do I keep surfing giant waves?��1C�u@���4�����Is that my highest calling? [exhales]��Ҡ�����Why do I feel that I need������� �such an extreme circumstance�� �C�u��𰠨���in order to feel alive?�� �C�u��j�����I don't know. I don't know.�� ������ �I don't know what I want.��%C�u@��K�����{\an8}I do care about the contest,���������but I don't want to make too much of a fuss about it.��~�����zLike, I was just so disappointed last time.�� DC�u���䠾���I just needed to sort of, like, reset a little bit.�� C�u@���q�����So light winds are here,��1�����1and the strong winds are this band here.��Ҡ����And Mullaghmore's right in the middle.���C�u���F�����That fat--look at--here.��UC�u��X������♪ ♪����š���So goin' to Ireland tonight for the swell tomorrow.���C�u@��zO�����It was like a gamble,���������but I was like, "I'm goin'. I'm gonna do it."��������{\an8}[in English]��yC�u���������♪ ♪���C�u@���������You all right, mate?���������- Nice to see you. - How are you?��ݠ���� m- You all right? - Yeah. Yeah.��7������So this is Justine.��������c- Justine, hey. - This is Taz.���C�u���n�����{\an8}[continues in English]�� b������{\an8}It's where he got his first big wave.�� 8C�u���>�����{\an8}♪ ♪���C�u�� ,�����{\an8}- Yeah, it's where me and Al--�� ����� you know, it's where we went through�� �C�u�������sort of thick and thin, really.��������It's big. [chuckles]��C�u��5�¡��You know, I've had, like, some horrific wipeouts there.��Ӡ�����[yelling]���C�u��J]�����Oh, my God!��Ҡ�����But I've also had some of my best waves...�� �C�u��_������and the best feelings of surfing also.��~�����~[indistinct chatter]�� s������Yeee!��fC�u��u �����- [yells] - [chuckles]�� ������ �So, yeah, it is quite relevant to me.�� �C�u���������It's where it all began.�� 񠘡�� �[door rattles]�� �C�u���;�����[moody music]�� C����� C♪ ♪��EC�u@���à����It's such a crazy, warp-y, boil-y thing���������that goes on at Mully,������� 'cause you've got this deep hole���C�u@���P�����inside the shelf, and then it comes up���������and over the shelf and then sucks around.��������'♪ ♪��C�u���������Get rid of the anxiety a little bit��`�����`and then, uh, get surf, I suppose, innit?�� sC�u@��������Just, I want it to be-- you know, you want it�������to be good, don't you?�� �����,Maybe it's not anxiety. Maybe it's nerves.���C�u@��$[�����Just a bit nervous, you know? [sniffs]�������� gYou're chasin' the feeling�������nof that first wave, you know?���C�u@��;S�š��Like, the reason why you fell in love with surfing.���������And yeah, okay, it's become a job��%������and become something different,���C�u@��P������but it should be just surfing.��+�����+Just riding waves and having fun.���������[sweeping music]���C�u��pG�����♪ ♪��5C�u@���|�����For me to go back to Ireland,��+�����+it was almost like I just stepped��㠝��� back to, like, 2007�� sC�u@�����ɡÁwith just me and Al out there. Do you know what I mean? Like--�� Ǡ���� �And that's what it felt like.��+������[chuckles]��%C�u@���{�����When you get into that flow with the ocean,��+�����+when you do find that rhythm��1����� \and then it sort of gels, it's like...�� �C�u��،�����it's a really, really magical feeling.�� ����� [sweeping orchestral music]�� �C�u���&�����♪ ♪���C�u�� ؠ����It was good to have that feeling back.�� s����� sYeah!��Ҡ����E[laughing]�� C�u@��,Ǡ����It's just all meant to be.��1�����1Do you know what?�������� �It actually turned everything around.��1������It was just, like...��C�u��E������again, like, reset.�� I����� I♪ ♪��_C�u@���J�����And then it was like, come back to Nazaré��͠�����for the WSL contest.��+������{\an8}- Yo, I'm tellin' you right now, man,��yC�u@���������{\an8}like, this is our event, you know?�� ������ �{\an8}- Yeah. - There's really nobody else��T������{\an8}that has put in more time on Jet Skis�� C�u@���Ơ����{\an8}and towing into waves.��a�����aLike, if we're gonna win something,��נ���� 8this is a good one, you know?�������:Yeah. I--I totally agree. Yeah.���C�u���������I'll see you bright and early.��頏����Yeah.�� �����:{\an8}[bell tolling distantly]�� �C�u��C�����{\an8}[speaking Portuguese]�� �C�u��0'�����Yeah.���������Okay.��������oRelax the muscles now. Relax everything.���C�u��R������And just think about the breathing, okay?�� s����� sYou control your breath.���C�u��m������Now you're completely relaxed.�� �C�u���-�����[seagulls calling]��%�����%[pop music plays]�� Ǡ�����So what? We got you in. Are you happy or what?�� C�u���'�����- Yeah, finally. - [chuckles]�� ����� - No, I-I'm stoked. - Dave said, "What are you--�� JC�u@���������green light or--" "I'm up."�� ����� - Thank you. - [chuckles] Yeah.���������- António Laureano. - António.�� �C�u��Դ�����Three.��f�����f{\an8}Tony, Tony. [overlapping chatter]��Ҡ���� 8{\an8}[in English]��UC�u@���g�����It's weird. Like, it's the first time.��O�¡��OBut it feels really good. It feels really, really good.�� �������[light applause]��TC�u��������{\an8}[in Portuguese]���C�u@��H������- Good luck, huh? - [chuckles]��1�����1- Stay safe.��1����� b- Let's go. - See you.��頲���K- See you tomorrow. - Good night, guys.��C�u��\蠛���See you tomorrow.�� ����� �[dramatic music]��,C�u��u�����{\an8}♪ ♪���C�u���������{\an8}[exhales]�� ������ �{\an8}Okay. [murmuring] be here.�� C�u���������{\an8}Good morning.�������� {\an8}Good morning.�� �����&{\an8}[in English]���C�u@���������My team was a little flexible this year��U�����Uwhich was a good and a bad thing.��������Partnered up with Scooby,��6�����9we did the WSL Challenge.���C�u@���U�����But then he's been stuck at home at "Big Brother"�������which is the biggest show in Brazil.��ޠ���� �{\an8}[speaking Portuguese]�� =C�u���꠮���{\an8}[speaking English] [chuckles]�� J����� J{\an8}We never know what's gonna happen.���C�u@�� l�ȡ{\an8}- And Kai was in Hawaii. He was about to compete�� ������ �{\an8}at the World Tour event.��ޠ�����And it was really unfortunate�� C�u@��" �����'cause I had a major conflict,��a�����aand I couldn't come to the second event.��+����� �You know, Lucas and I had both won�� IC�u��7ࠛ���the previous one.��7�����7{\an8}[speaking Portuguese]�� C�u��o������Try to get a bit of inspiration��㠠����of Chumbo. [chuckles]�������� �Get a bit of Chumbo in me.��+C�u���O�����- [laughs] - Eeee.��[�����[Lucas is just a legend, man.��1����� �He's just such a caring, nice person.��!C�u���������So it was such a good spirit to tow with him.�� I����� I♪ ♪��{C�u���������I decided, like, last minute��Ҡ�����to ride this board that I'd got from Ireland.�� �C�u���A�á��I suppose it's all about getting into the right mindset.�� �C�u���K�����- That's for you. - Thanks, mate.��C�u���������- How do you feel? - Excited.�� 𠎡�� �Ooh.��[C�u��.a�����All the family of Tony were there,��O�����Oand we feel like this team is a mix of two family,�� �C�u@��Bk�����and a lot of love first�� J����� Jand then we share a good time in the water.��נ����![indistinct chatter]�� sC�u���������Tune in, 'cause the event is on.��ؠ�����We're in heat one.��6����� Let's go.��=C�u��������[laughs]���������♪ ♪���C�u���Ƞ����[light applause]��Z�����z{\an8}[speaking Portuguese]���C�u��"�����Welcome to the Thunderdome.��������iLooks like Andrew Cotton, gettin' one early.�� �C�u@��!L�����Goin' the right-hand option.��Ҡ�����- Whee! - The second to haul went,�� ������Will put me into crazy right.���C�u��>󠤡��I just--I hit flat,��ؠ�����and the board was just magic.�� D�����That wave was sick.���C�u@��X������Holy moly.�������[chuckles] That was Cotty.��f����� �- Of course. - [chuckles]��Z�����?And he rode it out, which was nuts.�� �C�u��w������{\an8}[speaking English]�� �C�u@���8�����Cotty was in the same heat as mine.���������He got some big bombs on the right.���������{\an8}[speaking Portuguese]���C�u@���W�����{\an8}Lucas Chianca has jumped in��`�����`{\an8}to team up with Nic Von Rupp.��7�á�� �{\an8}And I would say that that team right there,��+������{\an8}- very experienced... - Whoo!�� sC�u�������{\an8}[speaking Portuguese]�� �C�u��������- Oh. Alley-oop. - Oh, it's... wow!�� ꠹��� �How is that gonna score? That was nuts.�� \C�u@��3������Lucas is doing those crazy airs, and my goal��,�����,{\an8}was really to try to get big air drop�������-{\an8}from top to bottom.���C�u��IѠ����{\an8}♪ ♪���C�u@��aŠ����{\an8}[applause]���á���{\an8}Nic and you, Cotty, are really close in the score.�� s�����V{\an8}It's like 0.10.���C�u���<�����{\an8}[in English]��y�����y{\an8}- What? - Yeah.��頜��� b- Did we? - Yeah.��C�u@���������- Did we? - Yeah.��頱����- You're trippin'. - No, I am not. No.�������� �I didn't know that.��������o- Cool. - Yeah, you won.��C�u@���n�����[both chuckle]��=�����=We had no idea.�������PDid we win the heat, did we?��f����� �- Yeah. - What?��������FYeah. They won the heat.���C�u��ɍ�����{\an8}Ian Cosenza on a big wave.�� ������ �{\an8}[indistinct]��+������{\an8}Ay! [chuckles]���C�u@���Ӡ����{\an8}The waves were awesome,���������{\an8}but I was focused, like, on Michelle��̠����Q{\an8}'cause I knew that, okay,���C�u@����¡��{\an8}like, she got the best waves of the event.�� ����� {\an8}- There goes Michelle des Bouillons�������{\an8}with an attacking line in.��C�u��D�����Michelle was going for it, deeper...��栮����pushing it and lookin' really good.�� �C�u��5堘���♪ ♪��y�����y{\an8}[speaking Portuguese]�� �C�u��h������Ay! [chuckles]��OC�u���W�����One team got a wave���������and we were by ourself on the lineup.�� �C�u@���䠨���I was like, "Tony, you drive."�� ꠹��� �Let's prove it right away... [chuckles]��[�����Ethat you can drive and our team is a good team.���C�u@���������I came from behind the peak.�������I get out of the wave.�������� �She was surfing the wave.��������K[epic music]���C�u@��祠����I wanted to do kind of a little turn,�� ٠���� �but, in fact, I saw, like,��f�����?there was three skis on the way.�� �C�u@�� X�����Anybody on a watercraft��a�����acan cause a wake.������� hAnd it definitely makes it a little harder to surf.�� C�u@��!Π����You're looking at that wake,�������trying to prepare for it.�� �������And when she saw that, she changed her line�� �C�u��>(�����to go directly against the bumps.�� ������[indistinct chatter]���C�u��W栝���Oh, no, no, no, no.��Z�����Z- Ooh! - Ooh.���C�u@��lm�����On my head, I was like,��+�����+"Wow, that's not a good way to start the heat."�� �����E♪ ♪�� bC�u@��������I went to pick her up.��6�����6And then she just told me,�������� �"Uhh, Tony, I think I have a broken foot."�� �C�u���ݠ����And I was like,�� Ǡ���� �"What? Like, for real?"�� CC�u@���砵���I was, like, starting to freak out.��y�����yI didn't know what to do. And I just went like,��������"Okay, Fred, let's go-- let's go to the harbor.��UC�u@��˼�����"Like, let's go inside. Let's--let's go get Justine."�� D����� DAnd Fred was like, no, no, no, don't worry,���������like, calm down.��[C�u��� �����He went to my father.��0C�u��2�����Fuck. [groans]��1�����1[grunts]���C�u��������{\an8}- You think a strap? - Yeah.�������{\an8}[in Portuguese]���C�u��>�����[whispering] Shit!���������[somber music]�� ������:♪ ♪���C�u��k=�����Hey.�������� �It was, like, so bumpy and I flied,���������and my-my foot stay in the straps...�� �C�u���������- Yeah. - And I went... fff...��+�����+So it... [mimics bone cracking]��C�u���������{\an8}[in English]�������{\an8}[in Portuguese]�� �C�u���^�����{\an8}- [sniffles] - [speaking Portuguese]�� mC�u���<�����{\an8}[both speaking Portuguese]��C�u���A�����I'm not there, but at least Tony can surf on.�� ����� It's not perfect, but...[chuckles]�� �C�u��򠨡��It's-it's better than nothing.���������{\an8}[in Portuguese]�� DC�u��0������{\an8}[in English]��1�����1{\an8}It's okay. It's okay.�������� �I remember saying to Susana,��UC�u��D������"Okay, just let's do a little video like this.�������Tony will not be worried."��0C�u@��XǠ����Tony! It's happening. It's okay.�� ����� It's normal. It's part of the game.���������But just have fun and surf for me.�� C�u@��|󠤡��I just tell the WSL���������"Okay, we're ready with Tony."�������� sAnd Ramon's coming, rushing.��1������It's like, "Okay, we have Ramon doing safety."��C�u@���������What the fuck? Like, let the kid surf.���������There's plenty safeties.��㠺��� �There is, like, ten safety guys for three guys.�� >C�u���z�����Like, let's do it. Like, why?�� DC�u���/�����{\an8}[all in Portuguese]��iC�u@�� Ġ����{\an8}[in Portuguese and English]�� ������ �{\an8}[both in English]���������She was, like, feeling that she-she let Tony down.���C�u@�� <�����She was feeling really bad��T�á��Tbecause she broke the foot, and I wasn't surfing.�� �����cAnd at the same time, I was feeling���C�u�� S[�����a little bit guilty.�� I����� IEverything happened because my fault.�� �C�u�� k$�����{\an8}[in English]���������So I didn't want to cry in front of her.�� C�u�� �렱���{\an8}[indistinct radio chatter]��+�����+{\an8}[both speaking French]��yC�u�� �������{\an8}[in English]��yC�u�� �t�����{\an8}[chuckles]���������♪ ♪��RC�u�� �J�����Big turn for Cotty.��ؠ�����Leaderboard-- Lucas first, 19.83.���C�u��!c�����Andrew second, 11 points.�� ������&{\an8}[speaking Portuguese]�� �C�u@��!Lʠ����{\an8}♪ ♪�� �¡�� {\an8}- Another wave for Michelle des Bouillons.��1�á��@{\an8}- Oh, one right. - This is a big wave here.���C�u��!}������♪ ♪�� ������ �It seemed that the world was, like, coming to an end.���C�u��!�������♪ ♪�� 䠵��� �Massive wave here for Nic Von Rupp.���C�u��!�C�����That huge one.��[����� s{\an8}[in Portuguese]���C�u@��!�z�����Cotty, you have a chance to win��[�����[if you get on the rope,��頮��� Dand there's a set coming right now.��������:Come on, baby, do something.��ZC�u��!������Ugh.�� ����� �I went to take a shower.��㠞���uI just lost it again�� bC�u��"堬���and just, like, punching the wall�� ����� and really frustrated��+�����?with all the situation.���C�u@��"������[all laugh]�� ������ �Andrew Cotton on the rope here.��������There's not much time left to go.���C�u@��"6B�����It's worth a shot.��ޠ�����♪ ♪�� ������o- [airhorn blares] - Yeah, it's finished, guys.�� �C�u��"RH�����The bullhorn. That's the bullhorn!��������[dog barks]���C�u��"v������{\an8}[in English]��㠝����{\an8}I don't know.��=C�u��"�䠑���[sighs]���������That was fun.��1C�u��"� �����At least we made some better scores���������than the last time. [both chuckle]�� mC�u��"�������{\an8}[speaking Portuguese]�� �C�u��"�*�����[exhales]�������� �{\an8}[chuckles]���C�u��"�������{\an8}[sighs]�������� {\an8}Oof.�� C�u��# ������{\an8}[applause]�� �C�u��#)Ԡ����{\an8}[laughs]��O����� �{\an8}[sighs]���C�u@��#D9�����[indistinct chatter]��̠�����- I am. - Good.�������� �{\an8}- [both laugh] - Yes.��נ����c{\an8}[in Portuguese]��UC�u@��#j������Come on, brother.��㠶����I was really happy to win the event.�� s�����VYeah, that was--that was a very special day.���C�u@��#�Ϡ����I feel like I put it all on the line���������and I'm very grateful��Ҡ�����that, you know, we came out on top.�� C�u��#�]�����{\an8}Whoo!��䠥��� �{\an8}[cheers and applause]��C�u��#껠����I've never ever placed in any surf contest.�������And I've had, like, two seasons��1C�u@��$�����of never really quite achievin'.��ݠ�����Then things finally come together���������and you're movin' in the right direction.�� �C�u@��$f�����Yeah. Just things work out, don't they?��&�����&That's why it's important��f����� �just to keep going, I suppose, innit? Like--��C�u��$0󠲡��It could have [indistinct]. You stayed?���C�u@��$Fu�����{\an8}But that's Nazaré, though.���������{\an8}- It's not this--yeah, mate. - That's Nazaré.������� �[indistinct chatter]���C�u��$\Ǡ����{\an8}[in English]������� 2The recovery she had after Jaws,���C�u@��$pѠ����like, in 2018,�������that was really, really hard.��������!Like, she told me, "Fuck, if I get injured,�� �C�u��$�������"I will never have the courage��+�����+to go through it again."��U������{\an8}[in English]�� DC�u��$�{�����But now I knew where I wanted to go,��y�����yhow, and with who.��<C�u��$�5�����She wanted to recover maybe also for Tony.�� =����� =I never seen her like that with that energy.���C�u@��$������And I'm stoked to see her��ݠ�����and I will be stoked to help them.��ؠ���� �We will have to wait for the next one.��+C�u��%������[chuckles]��[�����[We still have a-- a lot to prove�� ꠫���Eand to do...[chuckles] Together.�� DC�u��%~�����[moody bass notes]�� b����� b♪ ♪�� >C�u��%6�����Some leashes,�� C����� Cone, two, three.���C�u��%�頳���Tony, for me, is like my little brother.��y�����yAnd I will always tell him what I think.�� 8C�u@��%�������He asked me, "Ah, do you think I should go?"�� ������ �And I'm like, "You should go for the experience.��%������Like, go there and you will learn."��UC�u��&ˠ����{\an8}[dramatic music]���������{\an8}♪ ♪���C�u��&(b�����[indistinct chatter]��+C�u��&s�����{\an8}[in Portuguese]���C�u��&�e�����♪ ♪��Ƞ�����[clapping]�� C�u��&�M�����[chuckling]�� 堯��� �And then, boom, second place.���C�u��&�������And I was like, "Wow. Okay.�� ������ �I passed the first heat."��������K[chuckles]��UC�u��&�(�����Then semifinals...��+C�u��''�����[airhorn blares] [yells]���C�u@��'=Z�����With that wave, I managed to stay second.�� J����� JAnd then I realized-- I was like,��0�����z"Wha-- I'm on my first final ever,�� �C�u��'X������like, on the big wave contest, you know?��������!I was in the last heat.��OC�u��'q)�����I had, like, a really good drop,��P�����Pa really good turn...��C�u@��'�ؠ����I finished the wave.��Ҡ�����Someone went to pick me up.��Ҡ�����He just told me, "You're first."���C�u@��'������And I was like, "What?"���������And then I-- soon I start to hear,������� �{\an8}like, in Spanish, like...�� �C�u��'�٠����[triumphant music]�� >����� >♪ ♪���C�u��'�򠲡��I was on the Jet Ski just like, "Whoa!"�� ꠡ��� �Like, screaming.��������oLike, I won.���C�u��( �����Whoo-hoo!��ؠ�����Whoo!���C�u��(, �����[indistinct chatter]�� ����� Whoo!���������♪ ♪���C�u��(Mo�����Eeee!���C�u��(`������[chuckles]��7C�u��(y������[laughs]��[����� �[cheering]�� �C�u��(�������♪ ♪�� �C�u��(ҵ�����[all cheering]�� ����� ♪ ♪�� �C�u��(魠����- Yeah! - Let me look at it.��ؠ�����- [chuckles] - [speaking Spanish]��C�u@��)09�����- Barrel... - Mm-hmm?�� 𠭡�� �Remember we talked about going out��a�����Q- on the Jet Ski today? - Mm-hmm.�� �C�u��)O������Look. Super, super small and glassy.���������- Oh. - Like, the best day ever.���C�u@��)hn�����Barrel wanted me to tow him in Nazaré��U�����Ufor a while now.��ޠ���� 3I don't know if I was pushing,���C�u��)|O�����but I was definitely encouraging him to go.�� ������ �Dad, I don't have to catch a wave.�� C�u@��)�������If you don't want to, you don't have to.�� ������ �I knew it was perfect size.��������!I knew everything was just right.�� �C�u��)������And I knew it was the day to take him.�� ����� Here you go. Right here.���C�u��)�ՠ����[surfboard thuds]��+�����+It was so cute.��Ҡ�����He jumps in the water.���C�u��)׌�����And right when he touches the water,��頰����he's like... "[vocalizes] It's cold."�� �����Cold.���C�u��)튠����It's cold out here.��O�����O[Lou Reed's "This Magic Moment"]�� �������♪ ♪�� >C�u��* ������♪ This magic moment ♪��y�����y♪ ♪�� �C�u��*⠰���♪ So different and so new ♪�� b����� b♪ Was like any other ♪�� �C�u��*64�����♪ ♪�� ������ �♪ Until I met you ♪���C�u��*Pà����♪ And then it happened ♪�������♪ It took me by surprise ♪���C�u@�*q������♪ I knew that you felt it too ♪��P�����P♪ I could see it by the look in your eyes ♪�� �C�u��*�������♪ ♪���������♪ Sweeter than wine ♪�� �C�u��*�������♪ Softer than a summer's night... ♪�� ڠ���� �Being there alone�� CC�u��*�������and then being there with my boy....���C�u��*أ�����That was insane.�������Was a very special moment.�� 𠪡���♪ This magic moment ♪��iC�u��*�������♪ So different and so new ♪�� ������ �♪ Was like any other ♪�� C�u@��+������The kid is a natural. He's a freak.����ġ���He can ride any size wave he wants right now pretty much.�� �C�u��+*m�����♪ And then it happened ♪�� \����� \Every wave he catches that I put him on���C�u@��+@l�����and then I just watch the whole ride�� m����� mand just see him come back out��~������and share with me what he just did��C�u��+YY�����or the experience he just had.��O�����OI just love taking Barrel surfing.��yC�u@��+uܠ����♪ Sweeter than wine ♪���������- Got it? - Yep.�� ������'- ♪ Ooh softer ♪ - Let me see.��yC�u��+�⠷���I can't wait for Theia to get into it���������and then Fe.��7����� 2[baby cries]���C�u@��+�������Not into the ocean.��T�����T♪ Whenever I hold you tight ♪�� 񠫡��EGarrett's in a good place.��`C�u@��+�\�����I'm feeling like he's really content more than ever.���������Like, he has said he's content before,���C�u@��+�ޠ����but it wasn't real.�� ����� Now it think he's really settling in�� �����,to being a super present dad and husband.��yC�u��+ꃠ����{\an8}'Sup?��������-{\an8}Am I okay?��<�����i{\an8}Yeah, I'm okay. Are you okay?��%C�u��,�����CJ's figuring things out.�� ]����� ]Pretty good, pretty good.��C�u��,o�����Pretty good. Aaah.��1�����1That was the most I've worked my bicep in weeks.���C�u��,.s�ġ��I think if I hadn't taken this legendary pounding,�� \����� \I don't know that I would have��UC�u��,C$�����earned the respect of the club.�� ������ �I may have still been Garrett's brother-in-law.�� C�u@��,V۠����And I feel like now I'm CJ Macias.�� ����� I realized that I get��U�����othe same heart pumping and nervousness��zC�u@��,wĠ����for some other things,��a�����asuch as, like, having the conversation��O����� �with a loved one that I need to have with them,���C�u@��,�o�š��before gathering together a group of kids who are--�� ����� �who knows what they're gonna be like, you know?�� I�����:If I can be pushing and expanding myself���C�u��,�]�����in these ways that isn't risking my life,�� 𠵡�� �I'm receiving this growth and development,��-C�u@��,�z�����and then it's not as limited to surfing.�� m����� mI like my life.��ݠ����JAnd even though I still experience��C�u@��,�̠����a lot of these turmoils,��Z�š��Zand life is so sad sometimes, and all these things happen,�� �����cit's beautiful too, right?���C�u@��,�㠛���My kiss? [gasps]��y�����y- Aw. - Garrett's been sensitive�������zto CJ's injury and not being pushy�� hC�u@��-Š����or even pushing.�������But he has asked him a few times�������� �if he was gonna go back to Nazaré.���C�u@��-�����Garrett may be living vicariously���������- through Barrel and I. - Everybody ready?��������'And we live vicariously through him.���C�u��-2������Two, three.��`�����`Oh, my goodness.�������� �I'm pretty content on the land these days.�� >C�u@��-J�����But then when I get back in the water,�������I'm like, "How could I not be longing for this�� �����!all day, every day?"�� C�u@�-dU�¡��When we sat down to write our goals for this next year,�� ������ �at the top of the list, his goal is to be���C�u��-y�����in the best shape of his life by 55.�� ٠���� �He's trying to say it's so that he can be���C�u��-�������helpful for me and the kids, but I am pretty sure�� 8����� 8it's so that he can still surf���C�u@��-�٠����the biggest wave in the world. [chuckles]��y�á��yI'm doin' my best to reverse the clock right now.�� C�u@��-�f�����My neck's perfect.��U�����UMy back is perf--my-- yeah, everything--�� I������little pain in this shoulder, but it's not bad.��{C�u@��-������I just wanna take Barrel��ݠ�����to all these good little waves,�������� gand if big ones show up, amazing.���C�u@��-�ܠ����I got one.��=�����=Got one! Got one!�������� �I mean, I wanna be able to get Barrel���������till I'm 105 with Barrel.�� �C�u@��. $�����All right. We're gonna let him go.��[�����[He's not big enough, 'kay?������� n- He is small. - Give him a kiss?��6������♪ ♪���C�u@��.#������- [blows raspberry] - [chuckles]���������All right. 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