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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:00,827 --> 00:00:05,068 [ Soft music plays ] 2 00:00:05,068 --> 00:00:11,793 ♪♪ 3 00:00:11,793 --> 00:00:15,172 -The Indus River gave its name to India, 4 00:00:15,172 --> 00:00:17,379 and along its banks are the sites of some 5 00:00:17,379 --> 00:00:21,068 of the earliest urban settlements on earth. 6 00:00:21,068 --> 00:00:23,586 Though the subcontinent was the birthplace of many 7 00:00:23,586 --> 00:00:25,482 of the world's great religions, 8 00:00:25,482 --> 00:00:29,034 excavations of these cities have uncovered no evidence 9 00:00:29,034 --> 00:00:32,034 of any organised religious practices. 10 00:00:32,034 --> 00:00:34,482 ♪♪ 11 00:00:34,482 --> 00:00:37,827 But in the last 2,000 years, a culture of religious tolerance 12 00:00:37,827 --> 00:00:42,551 developed amongst the many faiths of these lands. 13 00:00:42,551 --> 00:00:46,275 Buddhism, Jainism, Sikhism all originated here, 14 00:00:46,275 --> 00:00:48,862 and the Mughal conquerors built their Islamic mosques 15 00:00:48,862 --> 00:00:50,896 alongside Hindu temples. 16 00:00:50,896 --> 00:00:52,655 ♪♪ 17 00:00:52,655 --> 00:00:54,758 In 1582, when Europe was in the grip 18 00:00:54,758 --> 00:00:57,000 of almost continuous religious conflict 19 00:00:57,000 --> 00:00:58,793 between Christian sects, 20 00:00:58,793 --> 00:01:00,689 the Mughal Emperor Akbar the Great 21 00:01:00,689 --> 00:01:03,241 exhorted his philosophers to seek a way 22 00:01:03,241 --> 00:01:07,517 for all religions in his empire to coexist. 23 00:01:07,517 --> 00:01:10,862 Even now, Hinduism still reflects that. 24 00:01:10,862 --> 00:01:14,034 It has changed and adapted to circumstance. 25 00:01:14,034 --> 00:01:16,862 Its followers welcome and absorb customs and beliefs 26 00:01:16,862 --> 00:01:18,241 from other faiths. 27 00:01:18,241 --> 00:01:21,241 So today it's the biggest faith in India 28 00:01:21,241 --> 00:01:23,620 and the third-largest in the world. 29 00:01:25,000 --> 00:01:27,655 The temples constructed to nurture this faith 30 00:01:27,655 --> 00:01:30,137 are some of the greatest architectural treasures 31 00:01:30,137 --> 00:01:32,310 in India and in this last programme, 32 00:01:32,310 --> 00:01:35,068 we are in the southern Indian state of Tamil Nadu. 33 00:01:35,068 --> 00:01:38,689 This is where Hindu temple culture reached its zenith, 34 00:01:38,689 --> 00:01:40,620 and there's no better place to understand 35 00:01:40,620 --> 00:01:43,206 the story of these remarkable buildings. 36 00:01:43,206 --> 00:01:51,379 ♪♪ 37 00:01:51,379 --> 00:01:54,586 [ Up-tempo music plays ] 38 00:01:54,586 --> 00:02:01,896 ♪♪ 39 00:02:01,896 --> 00:02:05,206 India is a country of over a billion people, 40 00:02:05,206 --> 00:02:07,344 and the Hindu majority understand 41 00:02:07,344 --> 00:02:09,551 and interpret their existence 42 00:02:09,551 --> 00:02:12,655 in terms of their relationship with the divine. 43 00:02:12,655 --> 00:02:14,793 ♪♪ 44 00:02:14,793 --> 00:02:18,310 Their faith, a complex synthesis of many ancient beliefs, 45 00:02:18,310 --> 00:02:21,482 is inseparable from their everyday lives. 46 00:02:21,482 --> 00:02:26,000 The sacred and the profane are inextricably entwined. 47 00:02:26,000 --> 00:02:28,551 ♪♪ 48 00:02:28,551 --> 00:02:31,206 Even some of its most ardent followers will tell you 49 00:02:31,206 --> 00:02:36,482 that Hinduism is not a religion but a cultural phenomenon. 50 00:02:36,482 --> 00:02:38,551 [ Soft South Asian music plays ] 51 00:02:38,551 --> 00:02:43,793 The word "Hindu" is also derived from the mighty Indus river. 52 00:02:43,793 --> 00:02:47,620 Its followers regard the world in which we live as illusory. 53 00:02:47,620 --> 00:02:50,448 The goal of life is to break through this illusion 54 00:02:50,448 --> 00:02:53,379 and discover the reality beyond. 55 00:02:53,379 --> 00:02:56,689 The locus for this quest is the temple. 56 00:02:56,689 --> 00:02:59,689 ♪♪ 57 00:02:59,689 --> 00:03:03,310 The Hindu temple is where the divide between illusion 58 00:03:03,310 --> 00:03:06,137 and reality is at its most porous, 59 00:03:06,137 --> 00:03:08,551 where the opportunity to achieve darshan, 60 00:03:08,551 --> 00:03:11,586 a vision of the divine, is most possible. 61 00:03:11,586 --> 00:03:15,275 Every community in India, great or small, 62 00:03:15,275 --> 00:03:16,931 will have its own temple, 63 00:03:16,931 --> 00:03:19,862 the centre of its social and spiritual life. 64 00:03:19,862 --> 00:03:21,586 And these places have fostered 65 00:03:21,586 --> 00:03:25,448 the greatest flowering of Hindu artistic expression. 66 00:03:25,448 --> 00:03:28,448 ♪♪ 67 00:03:28,448 --> 00:03:31,793 Temples are remarkable works of art in their own right, 68 00:03:31,793 --> 00:03:34,517 but they have also been the cradle of creativity 69 00:03:34,517 --> 00:03:37,137 in sculpture, poetry, song, and dance -- 70 00:03:37,137 --> 00:03:39,689 the very heart of a vibrant culture 71 00:03:39,689 --> 00:03:42,689 that is still beating as strongly as ever. 72 00:03:42,689 --> 00:03:49,689 ♪♪ 73 00:03:49,689 --> 00:03:56,517 ♪♪ 74 00:03:56,517 --> 00:03:58,965 Descending from the arid Deccan plateau, 75 00:03:58,965 --> 00:04:02,275 the flat and forested landscape of southern India 76 00:04:02,275 --> 00:04:04,758 is very different to the north. 77 00:04:04,758 --> 00:04:06,827 This is a land apart -- ethnically 78 00:04:06,827 --> 00:04:11,275 and culturally distinct, and with a separate history. 79 00:04:11,275 --> 00:04:14,379 Even the Mughal conquest did not reach this far south. 80 00:04:14,379 --> 00:04:18,448 In the 6th century, a dynasty known as the Pallavas 81 00:04:18,448 --> 00:04:20,827 came to power in southern India. 82 00:04:20,827 --> 00:04:24,896 Their empire thrived on trade, and the town of Mahabalipuram, 83 00:04:24,896 --> 00:04:28,655 on the Coromandel Coast, was their principal port. 84 00:04:28,655 --> 00:04:37,827 ♪♪ 85 00:04:37,827 --> 00:04:40,758 Fishing is now the mainstay of this coast, 86 00:04:40,758 --> 00:04:43,517 part of the modern state of Tamil Nadu. 87 00:04:43,517 --> 00:04:46,310 But in a golden age in the 7th and 8th centuries, 88 00:04:46,310 --> 00:04:48,896 the Pallava kings turned Mahabalipuram 89 00:04:48,896 --> 00:04:53,241 into an artisan laboratory for the craft of stone carving 90 00:04:53,241 --> 00:04:56,448 and it now has World Heritage status. 91 00:04:56,448 --> 00:04:59,724 ♪♪ 92 00:04:59,724 --> 00:05:03,103 Beached like a petrified ship to the south of the town 93 00:05:03,103 --> 00:05:06,241 is one of the earliest free-standing stone temples 94 00:05:06,241 --> 00:05:09,000 in India, the Shore Temple. 95 00:05:09,000 --> 00:05:11,896 ♪♪ 96 00:05:11,896 --> 00:05:13,655 When this temple was built, 97 00:05:13,655 --> 00:05:15,862 many of the elements of temple design 98 00:05:15,862 --> 00:05:18,413 had already become standardised, 99 00:05:18,413 --> 00:05:21,206 but the origins of this architectural form 100 00:05:21,206 --> 00:05:22,827 are not buildings at all. 101 00:05:22,827 --> 00:05:24,862 ♪♪ 102 00:05:24,862 --> 00:05:27,931 A few hundred yards inland from the Shore Temple 103 00:05:27,931 --> 00:05:31,103 is a shrine from the start of the Pallava period 104 00:05:31,103 --> 00:05:32,551 that helps us appreciate 105 00:05:32,551 --> 00:05:35,862 why these buildings evolved in the way they did. 106 00:05:35,862 --> 00:05:39,586 Like many caves and natural rock formations in India, 107 00:05:39,586 --> 00:05:41,758 an opening in this granite overhang 108 00:05:41,758 --> 00:05:44,379 has been enlarged and shaped over many generations 109 00:05:44,379 --> 00:05:47,896 to provide a site to worship local gods. 110 00:05:47,896 --> 00:05:50,241 ♪♪ 111 00:05:50,241 --> 00:05:52,241 These shrines could have been 112 00:05:52,241 --> 00:05:54,724 as simple as a clearing in the forest, 113 00:05:54,724 --> 00:05:58,827 a source of spring water, or, as in this case, a cave. 114 00:05:58,827 --> 00:06:01,310 What they all shared was a setting 115 00:06:01,310 --> 00:06:03,172 where the natural energy of the earth 116 00:06:03,172 --> 00:06:06,310 seemed to manifest itself. 117 00:06:06,310 --> 00:06:08,896 This remarkable rock architecture 118 00:06:08,896 --> 00:06:11,000 is 1,400 years old, 119 00:06:11,000 --> 00:06:13,310 and the men who carved it were trying to harness 120 00:06:13,310 --> 00:06:17,172 the spirit of the stone from which it is formed. 121 00:06:17,172 --> 00:06:20,206 These beams mimic timber cross-members, 122 00:06:20,206 --> 00:06:21,586 and the whole structure 123 00:06:21,586 --> 00:06:24,758 was formed in imitation of wooden temples. 124 00:06:24,758 --> 00:06:27,275 The columns appear to be holding the roof up, 125 00:06:27,275 --> 00:06:29,931 but it is all made from the living rock. 126 00:06:29,931 --> 00:06:31,896 ♪♪ 127 00:06:31,896 --> 00:06:35,724 Inside is a small, dark womb-like chamber 128 00:06:35,724 --> 00:06:38,551 where very little natural light penetrates, 129 00:06:38,551 --> 00:06:42,034 and this is regarded as the most sacred part of the temple, 130 00:06:42,034 --> 00:06:43,310 the sanctum. 131 00:06:43,310 --> 00:06:45,344 On the back wall is a carved panel 132 00:06:45,344 --> 00:06:48,724 which tells us that this temple is dedicated to Shiva, 133 00:06:48,724 --> 00:06:52,827 shown here with his consort, Parvati. 134 00:06:52,827 --> 00:06:55,793 On the side wall is a panel showing Vishnu, 135 00:06:55,793 --> 00:06:58,689 reclining on the primordial waters. 136 00:06:58,689 --> 00:07:03,379 Shiva and Vishnu are two of the principle gods of Hinduism. 137 00:07:03,379 --> 00:07:07,482 As Hinduism evolved, here in southern India, 138 00:07:07,482 --> 00:07:09,551 Shiva became the more popular deity, 139 00:07:09,551 --> 00:07:12,241 while in the north, Vishnu is more common, 140 00:07:12,241 --> 00:07:15,586 but both are aspects of the divine. 141 00:07:15,586 --> 00:07:18,655 At the time these cave temples were made, 142 00:07:18,655 --> 00:07:22,137 by far the most popular faith in India was Buddhism, 143 00:07:22,137 --> 00:07:23,862 and the people who worshipped here 144 00:07:23,862 --> 00:07:26,206 would have been most surprised to discover 145 00:07:26,206 --> 00:07:27,655 they would one day be regarded 146 00:07:27,655 --> 00:07:31,413 as part of an organised religion called Hinduism. 147 00:07:33,689 --> 00:07:37,482 ♪♪ 148 00:07:37,482 --> 00:07:40,896 The earliest animist practices saw the spirit of the earth 149 00:07:40,896 --> 00:07:44,379 and its power manifest in all natural things. 150 00:07:44,379 --> 00:07:48,793 Despite its selection of recognisable Hindu deities, 151 00:07:48,793 --> 00:07:52,310 this isolated rural shrine in a forest clearing 152 00:07:52,310 --> 00:07:54,931 has a powerful sense of mystery. 153 00:07:54,931 --> 00:07:58,137 When it was first venerated by the local villagers, 154 00:07:58,137 --> 00:08:00,482 it would have had little to do with Shiva. 155 00:08:00,482 --> 00:08:03,724 The many hundreds of clay horses 156 00:08:03,724 --> 00:08:06,103 gently decaying in the undergrowth 157 00:08:06,103 --> 00:08:09,379 tell us that this shrine is dedicated to Ayyanar, 158 00:08:09,379 --> 00:08:12,206 a deity who protects rural villages 159 00:08:12,206 --> 00:08:16,275 and is almost exclusively found in Tamil Nadu. 160 00:08:16,275 --> 00:08:17,793 He rides around on horseback, 161 00:08:17,793 --> 00:08:20,344 fighting the demons of the forest. 162 00:08:20,344 --> 00:08:23,586 The inspiration for this holy place 163 00:08:23,586 --> 00:08:26,517 was spiritual rather than religious -- 164 00:08:26,517 --> 00:08:30,137 a potent nexus for the essence of the forest. 165 00:08:30,137 --> 00:08:36,275 ♪♪ 166 00:08:36,275 --> 00:08:39,172 A similar sense of the power of natural forces 167 00:08:39,172 --> 00:08:42,620 is evident by the shore at Mahabalipuram. 168 00:08:42,620 --> 00:08:45,034 Set back from the sea, we find the next phase 169 00:08:45,034 --> 00:08:48,482 in the development of the Pallava stone carvers. 170 00:08:48,482 --> 00:08:49,793 ♪♪ 171 00:08:49,793 --> 00:08:51,931 A row of rocky outcrops and boulders 172 00:08:51,931 --> 00:08:54,689 allowed them to work on a relatively modest scale 173 00:08:54,689 --> 00:08:58,413 to try out some of their ideas for rock-cut temples. 174 00:08:58,413 --> 00:09:01,068 ♪♪ 175 00:09:01,068 --> 00:09:03,034 These are the rathas, 176 00:09:03,034 --> 00:09:05,689 the first free-standing rock-cut temples 177 00:09:05,689 --> 00:09:07,275 in Indian architecture, 178 00:09:07,275 --> 00:09:10,482 and they are completely without precedent. 179 00:09:10,482 --> 00:09:14,655 ♪♪ 180 00:09:14,655 --> 00:09:16,931 The rathas are not strictly temples, 181 00:09:16,931 --> 00:09:18,482 because they were never finished, 182 00:09:18,482 --> 00:09:20,827 but they functioned as an aesthetic playground 183 00:09:20,827 --> 00:09:23,000 for the Pallava kings. 184 00:09:24,172 --> 00:09:26,655 They're extremely architecturally diverse 185 00:09:26,655 --> 00:09:28,379 for the 7th century, 186 00:09:28,379 --> 00:09:31,310 each one trying out different shapes and layouts 187 00:09:31,310 --> 00:09:34,275 and with a rich variety of ornamentation. 188 00:09:34,275 --> 00:09:36,482 The smaller outcrops were used to create animals 189 00:09:36,482 --> 00:09:39,172 and other mythical figures. 190 00:09:39,172 --> 00:09:46,448 ♪♪ 191 00:09:46,448 --> 00:09:48,448 But this challenge seemed to be 192 00:09:48,448 --> 00:09:51,655 one the Pallava craftsmen relished, 193 00:09:51,655 --> 00:09:55,758 and it was in stone that Hindu architecture came to life. 194 00:09:55,758 --> 00:09:58,758 At the four corners of this last ratha 195 00:09:58,758 --> 00:10:01,206 are figures of Shiva and other gods, 196 00:10:01,206 --> 00:10:05,034 with scripts in ancient Tamil carved in the masonry above. 197 00:10:05,034 --> 00:10:08,275 One is thought to be the king, Narasimhavarman I, 198 00:10:08,275 --> 00:10:09,862 with an inscription 199 00:10:09,862 --> 00:10:12,413 that proclaims his patronage of the site. 200 00:10:12,413 --> 00:10:16,241 "Look on my works, ye mighty, and despair." 201 00:10:16,241 --> 00:10:18,241 ♪♪ 202 00:10:18,241 --> 00:10:21,068 [ Birds chirping ] 203 00:10:21,068 --> 00:10:23,517 ♪♪ 204 00:10:23,517 --> 00:10:25,758 The skills developed in the Pallava times 205 00:10:25,758 --> 00:10:27,241 have not been lost. 206 00:10:27,241 --> 00:10:28,724 In the back alleys of the town today, 207 00:10:28,724 --> 00:10:30,655 there are hundreds of stone artisans 208 00:10:30,655 --> 00:10:33,655 chiselling away in ramshackle street studios, 209 00:10:33,655 --> 00:10:37,793 meticulously turning stone into devotional art. 210 00:10:37,793 --> 00:10:42,655 ♪♪ 211 00:10:42,655 --> 00:10:44,758 The granite that these stonemasons are carving 212 00:10:44,758 --> 00:10:47,448 is not found locally and has to be transported 213 00:10:47,448 --> 00:10:50,206 from a quarry 50 kilometres away. 214 00:10:50,206 --> 00:10:53,344 But what Mahabalipuram does have, 215 00:10:53,344 --> 00:10:56,586 which makes it the undisputed centre of stone carving 216 00:10:56,586 --> 00:10:59,655 along this coast, are the craftsmen. 217 00:10:59,655 --> 00:11:03,000 The apprenticeship to become a master mason here 218 00:11:03,000 --> 00:11:04,931 takes a minimum of seven years, 219 00:11:04,931 --> 00:11:08,551 and in that time, every aspect of the process is covered. 220 00:11:08,551 --> 00:11:12,689 The workshop even manufacture their own chisels. 221 00:11:12,689 --> 00:11:14,862 There is no doubt that the modern carvers 222 00:11:14,862 --> 00:11:16,482 have developed their own style. 223 00:11:16,482 --> 00:11:18,724 Though they are depicting the same deities, 224 00:11:18,724 --> 00:11:20,517 these figures are subtly different 225 00:11:20,517 --> 00:11:24,103 from those that we see from a thousand years ago. 226 00:11:24,103 --> 00:11:29,137 ♪♪ 227 00:11:29,137 --> 00:11:31,620 As any Bollywood filmgoer will tell you, 228 00:11:31,620 --> 00:11:34,034 the Indians love a good yarn. 229 00:11:34,034 --> 00:11:37,689 This passion for storytelling is extravagantly indulged 230 00:11:37,689 --> 00:11:40,137 at Mahabalipuram's greatest treasure, 231 00:11:40,137 --> 00:11:44,517 the low-relief carving known as The Descent of the Ganges. 232 00:11:44,517 --> 00:11:48,517 Carved in the early 7th century, at the same time as the rathas, 233 00:11:48,517 --> 00:11:51,620 this exuberant panorama is packed with life, 234 00:11:51,620 --> 00:11:54,793 spilling down the faces of two monolithic boulders, 235 00:11:54,793 --> 00:11:57,206 some 43 feet high. 236 00:11:57,206 --> 00:11:59,965 As far as storytelling in stone goes, 237 00:11:59,965 --> 00:12:02,137 this is pretty hard to beat, 238 00:12:02,137 --> 00:12:05,448 but it's also an example of inspired planning. 239 00:12:05,448 --> 00:12:09,103 The sculptors have adapted a natural cleft in the rock 240 00:12:09,103 --> 00:12:11,275 to represent the story of the Ganges, 241 00:12:11,275 --> 00:12:16,103 whose life-giving waters are so central to the Hindu world view. 242 00:12:16,103 --> 00:12:19,068 The simple version of the story is 243 00:12:19,068 --> 00:12:22,689 that the mythical sage Bhagiratha is entreating Shiva 244 00:12:22,689 --> 00:12:26,241 to bring the celestial river Ganga to earth. 245 00:12:26,241 --> 00:12:27,896 The gods are rushing to the banks 246 00:12:27,896 --> 00:12:29,517 to see this miracle, and 247 00:12:29,517 --> 00:12:32,862 all the creatures of creation are watching in admiration, 248 00:12:32,862 --> 00:12:36,103 including a family of life-sized elephants. 249 00:12:36,103 --> 00:12:38,344 It's full of beautifully observed details 250 00:12:38,344 --> 00:12:40,620 and comic allusion. 251 00:12:40,620 --> 00:12:45,758 Bhagiratha is shown as a sadhu, a holy man, balanced on one leg. 252 00:12:45,758 --> 00:12:48,068 But his holiness is somewhat undermined 253 00:12:48,068 --> 00:12:51,551 when we see a pose imitated lower down by a cat. 254 00:12:51,551 --> 00:12:53,482 ♪♪ 255 00:12:53,482 --> 00:12:56,758 For Hindus, Ganga is personified as a goddess. 256 00:12:56,758 --> 00:12:59,000 So powerful was her force, however, 257 00:12:59,000 --> 00:13:02,793 that Shiva broke her descent by extending his matted locks, 258 00:13:02,793 --> 00:13:04,413 lest she flood the earth. 259 00:13:04,413 --> 00:13:08,000 Thus you see the union of male and female forces. 260 00:13:08,000 --> 00:13:10,827 [ Birds chirping ] 261 00:13:10,827 --> 00:13:14,586 A more complex alternative is that this is an episode 262 00:13:14,586 --> 00:13:18,275 from the early Hindu epic tale, The Mahabharata. 263 00:13:18,275 --> 00:13:21,379 The holy man is, in fact, a character called Arjuna, 264 00:13:21,379 --> 00:13:24,862 standing on one leg as a penance in the hope that Shiva 265 00:13:24,862 --> 00:13:29,379 will grant him an invincible weapon to destroy his enemies. 266 00:13:29,379 --> 00:13:32,758 Both narratives resist complete explanation, 267 00:13:32,758 --> 00:13:35,620 with equal stubbornness. 268 00:13:35,620 --> 00:13:38,448 What we are seeing here is an early example 269 00:13:38,448 --> 00:13:40,655 of the taste for complex ornament, 270 00:13:40,655 --> 00:13:42,620 and this seething mass of deities 271 00:13:42,620 --> 00:13:46,758 will eventually become a staple of temple decoration. 272 00:13:46,758 --> 00:13:54,551 ♪♪ 273 00:13:54,551 --> 00:13:57,241 For the Pallavas, their greatest moment 274 00:13:57,241 --> 00:13:59,620 was the construction of the Shore Temple, 275 00:13:59,620 --> 00:14:02,931 a landmark not just for their own progress as masons 276 00:14:02,931 --> 00:14:06,241 but for the development of the nascent Hindu faith. 277 00:14:06,241 --> 00:14:09,172 The Shore Temple marked a significant move 278 00:14:09,172 --> 00:14:11,862 towards building on a monumental scale. 279 00:14:11,862 --> 00:14:14,862 But whether it was an architectural masterpiece 280 00:14:14,862 --> 00:14:17,965 or a simple carving on the back wall of a cave, 281 00:14:17,965 --> 00:14:21,137 at the heart of any Hindu devotional building 282 00:14:21,137 --> 00:14:24,724 is the shrine, the small sacred space where 283 00:14:24,724 --> 00:14:29,000 the devotee experiences darshan, the presence of the divine. 284 00:14:29,000 --> 00:14:30,862 ♪♪ 285 00:14:30,862 --> 00:14:33,655 As these buildings grew in size, it became common 286 00:14:33,655 --> 00:14:36,172 to mark the presence of the central shrine 287 00:14:36,172 --> 00:14:38,172 with an elaborately carved tower, 288 00:14:38,172 --> 00:14:40,793 known as the vimana, which stands as a marker, 289 00:14:40,793 --> 00:14:43,586 very visibly proclaiming the temple's location 290 00:14:43,586 --> 00:14:45,758 to the faithful. 291 00:14:45,758 --> 00:14:47,517 ♪♪ 292 00:14:47,517 --> 00:14:50,620 Though this building is a freestanding structure, 293 00:14:50,620 --> 00:14:54,413 the way the rock is carved harks back to the rathas. 294 00:14:54,413 --> 00:14:57,551 It is not made of regular stone blocks and mortar 295 00:14:57,551 --> 00:15:00,965 but huge sections of precisely shaped granite. 296 00:15:00,965 --> 00:15:03,482 ♪♪ 297 00:15:03,482 --> 00:15:05,551 The Shore Temple shows 298 00:15:05,551 --> 00:15:09,724 just how far early Hinduism had come by the 8th century. 299 00:15:09,724 --> 00:15:11,931 By then, there was a group of holy men, 300 00:15:11,931 --> 00:15:16,241 known as the Nayanmars, or the Hounds of Shiva. 301 00:15:16,241 --> 00:15:19,551 ♪♪ 302 00:15:19,551 --> 00:15:23,000 This pantheon of 63 mystics and philosophers, 303 00:15:23,000 --> 00:15:25,379 also known as the Tamil Saints, 304 00:15:25,379 --> 00:15:28,793 promoted a new kind of devotional Hinduism. 305 00:15:28,793 --> 00:15:30,724 They were devotees of Shiva, 306 00:15:30,724 --> 00:15:33,931 and their teaching was beginning to win a sizeable following. 307 00:15:33,931 --> 00:15:35,551 -[ Singing in native language ] 308 00:15:35,551 --> 00:15:38,551 -The hymns written by the saints were central to their success. 309 00:15:38,551 --> 00:15:42,137 The Nayanmars are said to have sung the Buddhists out of India, 310 00:15:42,137 --> 00:15:46,172 and their songs are still sung in the temples today. 311 00:15:46,172 --> 00:15:48,413 -[ Singing in native language ] 312 00:15:48,413 --> 00:15:53,758 ♪♪ 313 00:15:53,758 --> 00:15:57,413 They offered a path to salvation that was open to all. 314 00:15:57,413 --> 00:15:59,275 Their great attraction was 315 00:15:59,275 --> 00:16:01,551 that a personal expression of devotion 316 00:16:01,551 --> 00:16:04,551 was the way to become one with the divine. 317 00:16:04,551 --> 00:16:09,448 Many of the rituals associated with Hinduism today, 318 00:16:09,448 --> 00:16:12,000 such as the chanting of the names of the deities 319 00:16:12,000 --> 00:16:14,482 and pilgrimages to holy sites, 320 00:16:14,482 --> 00:16:17,241 were established by the Nayanmars. 321 00:16:17,241 --> 00:16:18,655 But in a practical sense, 322 00:16:18,655 --> 00:16:22,517 the goal was also to give Hinduism a popular face. 323 00:16:22,517 --> 00:16:24,103 The fantastic array of gods 324 00:16:24,103 --> 00:16:27,689 meant that everyone could find their own personal deity 325 00:16:27,689 --> 00:16:30,827 and set them to work on behalf of their soul. 326 00:16:30,827 --> 00:16:34,068 But what they were all striving towards 327 00:16:34,068 --> 00:16:36,103 was a structure for Hinduism -- 328 00:16:36,103 --> 00:16:39,517 a way to formalise and codify the disparate rituals, 329 00:16:39,517 --> 00:16:43,034 they had adopted to give it a unity and authority. 330 00:16:43,034 --> 00:16:46,137 And to do that, they needed to write it all down. 331 00:16:46,137 --> 00:16:48,137 ♪♪ 332 00:16:48,137 --> 00:16:50,862 Hinduism is not a "religion of the book." 333 00:16:50,862 --> 00:16:53,310 There is no central source of authority, 334 00:16:53,310 --> 00:16:56,241 like the Bible or the Koran, to refer to, 335 00:16:56,241 --> 00:16:58,758 to promulgate the absolute word of God, 336 00:16:58,758 --> 00:17:02,482 but that doesn't mean there is any shortage of scripture. 337 00:17:02,482 --> 00:17:05,137 The whole canon of Hindu philosophy 338 00:17:05,137 --> 00:17:07,827 thrives on debate and spiritual enquiry, 339 00:17:07,827 --> 00:17:11,724 much of it delightfully contradictory. 340 00:17:11,724 --> 00:17:13,379 If you tried to collect it all together, 341 00:17:13,379 --> 00:17:15,724 it would fill a myriad libraries. 342 00:17:17,413 --> 00:17:20,103 What was added to this at the time of the Tamil Saints 343 00:17:20,103 --> 00:17:23,620 was a far more rigorous set of instructions for the devotee, 344 00:17:23,620 --> 00:17:26,724 the Agamas. 345 00:17:26,724 --> 00:17:31,310 The Agamas are a set of rules to guide the Hindu devotee. 346 00:17:31,310 --> 00:17:33,586 They are incredibly wide-ranging, 347 00:17:33,586 --> 00:17:36,344 offering advice on temple construction, 348 00:17:36,344 --> 00:17:39,965 on the intricacies of the guru-disciple relationship, 349 00:17:39,965 --> 00:17:42,586 on meditations on the nature of Lord Shiva, 350 00:17:42,586 --> 00:17:46,758 covering every moment of life from waking to sleeping. 351 00:17:46,758 --> 00:17:49,275 ♪♪ 352 00:17:49,275 --> 00:17:55,482 -[ Speaking native language ] 353 00:17:55,482 --> 00:17:58,482 -The Agamas originated in Tamil Nadu 354 00:17:58,482 --> 00:18:01,275 and are written in the ancient Tamil language. 355 00:18:01,275 --> 00:18:06,310 -[ Speaking native language ] 356 00:18:06,310 --> 00:18:10,206 -All 8,000 bundles are now being translated 357 00:18:10,206 --> 00:18:13,103 before being photographed and digitised, 358 00:18:13,103 --> 00:18:15,724 allowing them to be accessed online. 359 00:18:15,724 --> 00:18:21,103 ♪♪ 360 00:18:21,103 --> 00:18:26,482 ♪♪ 361 00:18:26,482 --> 00:18:29,689 The Agamas now gave Hinduism a formal structure 362 00:18:29,689 --> 00:18:33,000 that is still a keystone of its practice today. 363 00:18:33,000 --> 00:18:36,517 In the wake of this change, we begin to see a significant 364 00:18:36,517 --> 00:18:40,172 decline in the Buddhist presence in India. 365 00:18:40,172 --> 00:18:43,137 Buddhism, a faith that had once counted itself 366 00:18:43,137 --> 00:18:46,586 as the main religion of India, had been successfully 367 00:18:46,586 --> 00:18:49,172 exported to China and across Asia, 368 00:18:49,172 --> 00:18:51,655 and was now destined to disappear entirely 369 00:18:51,655 --> 00:18:54,310 from the land where the Buddha was born 370 00:18:54,310 --> 00:18:56,206 and where he had sat under a tree 371 00:18:56,206 --> 00:18:58,551 and attained enlightenment. 372 00:18:58,551 --> 00:19:02,551 Why this happened is still a matter of fierce debate. 373 00:19:02,551 --> 00:19:05,103 The two religions share many central beliefs, 374 00:19:05,103 --> 00:19:06,931 and there is some evidence to suggest 375 00:19:06,931 --> 00:19:10,206 that Hinduism simply absorbed many adherents of Buddhism 376 00:19:10,206 --> 00:19:12,724 by borrowing their ideas. 377 00:19:12,724 --> 00:19:14,965 There may have been some persecution, 378 00:19:14,965 --> 00:19:16,724 but there was no major conflict, 379 00:19:16,724 --> 00:19:19,172 just an increasingly rapid acceptance 380 00:19:19,172 --> 00:19:22,931 of the newly invigorated Hindu teaching. 381 00:19:22,931 --> 00:19:25,965 -[ Speaking native language ] 382 00:19:25,965 --> 00:19:29,793 ♪♪ 383 00:19:29,793 --> 00:19:31,931 -Towards the end of the 9th century, 384 00:19:31,931 --> 00:19:35,551 a new dynasty established itself in Tamil Nadu. 385 00:19:35,551 --> 00:19:39,862 From their origins on the banks of the Kaveri River, 386 00:19:39,862 --> 00:19:43,724 the Cholas quickly gained control of Peninsular India 387 00:19:43,724 --> 00:19:46,172 and spread their influence into Sri Lanka, 388 00:19:46,172 --> 00:19:48,862 ultimately becoming the principal military, 389 00:19:48,862 --> 00:19:52,896 economic, and cultural force in southern Asia. 390 00:19:52,896 --> 00:19:55,344 ♪♪ 391 00:19:55,344 --> 00:19:57,793 Once established, they turned their attention 392 00:19:57,793 --> 00:20:00,413 to the glorification of their new capital, 393 00:20:00,413 --> 00:20:02,586 here at Thanjavur, 394 00:20:02,586 --> 00:20:06,068 and they certainly left an incredible legacy. 395 00:20:06,068 --> 00:20:08,206 [ Indistinct conversations ] 396 00:20:08,206 --> 00:20:11,172 The Chola dynasty produced many notable kings. 397 00:20:11,172 --> 00:20:13,172 One of the greatest came to the throne 398 00:20:13,172 --> 00:20:15,241 at the end of the 11th century. 399 00:20:15,241 --> 00:20:18,068 Raja Raja Chola was that rare combination 400 00:20:18,068 --> 00:20:21,137 of empire-builder, able administrator, 401 00:20:21,137 --> 00:20:22,655 and patron of the arts, 402 00:20:22,655 --> 00:20:24,862 but his most tangible legacy today 403 00:20:24,862 --> 00:20:28,482 is as a builder, and this is his greatest triumph. 404 00:20:28,482 --> 00:20:32,275 ♪♪ 405 00:20:32,275 --> 00:20:34,827 This building was completed in 1010, 406 00:20:34,827 --> 00:20:39,068 so has not long since celebrated its 1,000th birthday. 407 00:20:39,068 --> 00:20:42,482 It was started and completed in one continuous push 408 00:20:42,482 --> 00:20:45,482 during the lifetime of Raja Raja Chola, 409 00:20:45,482 --> 00:20:48,379 and in the immediate aftermath of the Hindu revolution 410 00:20:48,379 --> 00:20:50,793 sparked by the Tamil Saints. 411 00:20:50,793 --> 00:20:52,896 It's 300 years since the Shore Temple 412 00:20:52,896 --> 00:20:56,103 at Mahabalipuram was built, but we can clearly see 413 00:20:56,103 --> 00:20:58,172 that a great leap forward has occurred. 414 00:20:58,172 --> 00:21:01,000 It sheer size speaks of a building created 415 00:21:01,000 --> 00:21:02,896 for a dominant faith. 416 00:21:02,896 --> 00:21:07,724 Inscriptions in ancient Tamil tell us that Raja Raja Chola 417 00:21:07,724 --> 00:21:10,655 was instructed to build the temple in a dream, 418 00:21:10,655 --> 00:21:12,344 but the real inspiration 419 00:21:12,344 --> 00:21:15,724 was surely the architecture of power. 420 00:21:15,724 --> 00:21:19,000 It is, of course, dedicated to Shiva, 421 00:21:19,000 --> 00:21:20,827 and the message is clear -- 422 00:21:20,827 --> 00:21:26,758 Raja Raja and Lord Shiva were two sides of the same coin. 423 00:21:26,758 --> 00:21:30,137 As a work of art, it established a distinctive Chola style, 424 00:21:30,137 --> 00:21:32,517 both in design and ornamentation, 425 00:21:32,517 --> 00:21:35,620 which was to last for the next few centuries. 426 00:21:35,620 --> 00:21:40,448 The multifaceted columns and their projecting square capitals 427 00:21:40,448 --> 00:21:42,344 were widely copied. 428 00:21:42,344 --> 00:21:44,827 But it was the height of the central tower 429 00:21:44,827 --> 00:21:46,827 over the shrine, the vimana, 430 00:21:46,827 --> 00:21:50,000 and its monumental gateways, the gopurams, 431 00:21:50,000 --> 00:21:52,310 that were its greatest innovations. 432 00:21:52,310 --> 00:21:55,620 -[ Singing in native language ] 433 00:21:55,620 --> 00:21:58,655 -The temple gopurams that Raja Raja built here 434 00:21:58,655 --> 00:22:01,137 were more opulently embellished with sculpture, 435 00:22:01,137 --> 00:22:03,241 and on a far impressive scale, 436 00:22:03,241 --> 00:22:06,241 than anything that had been attempted before. 437 00:22:06,241 --> 00:22:08,793 In the flat landscape of Tamil Nadu, 438 00:22:08,793 --> 00:22:11,827 these mighty stone doorways dominated the view, 439 00:22:11,827 --> 00:22:14,034 dramatically announcing the presence 440 00:22:14,034 --> 00:22:16,241 of this colossal building. 441 00:22:16,241 --> 00:22:19,931 So we're entering through the great stone gopuram 442 00:22:19,931 --> 00:22:21,379 of Raja Raja. -Yeah. 443 00:22:21,379 --> 00:22:24,241 -Dr. Nagaswamy was formerly the Director 444 00:22:24,241 --> 00:22:26,310 of the Archaeological Survey of India 445 00:22:26,310 --> 00:22:29,275 and took a particular interest in this building. 446 00:22:29,275 --> 00:22:31,275 He probably knows more about its construction 447 00:22:31,275 --> 00:22:33,758 than Raja Raja Chola ever did, starting with 448 00:22:33,758 --> 00:22:38,689 the very first marker peg the builders set in the earth. 449 00:22:38,689 --> 00:22:41,517 -When the sun rises, the shadow will be thrown 450 00:22:41,517 --> 00:22:43,896 on the western side. That will be marked. 451 00:22:43,896 --> 00:22:49,103 And then on the same day, when the sun sets, 452 00:22:49,103 --> 00:22:53,793 they draw the central line -- exact central line. 453 00:22:53,793 --> 00:22:57,379 -The central axis is the basis of the sacred geometry 454 00:22:57,379 --> 00:22:59,689 of the temple. Along this line, 455 00:22:59,689 --> 00:23:02,103 the location of the main shrine is determined. 456 00:23:02,103 --> 00:23:06,172 And this point directly below the finial on the central tower, 457 00:23:06,172 --> 00:23:08,241 the vimana, becomes the focus 458 00:23:08,241 --> 00:23:11,206 from which the entire complex is plotted. 459 00:23:11,206 --> 00:23:13,413 [ Birds chirping ] 460 00:23:13,413 --> 00:23:15,413 [ Indistinct conversations ] 461 00:23:15,413 --> 00:23:17,551 -Now in this plan, 462 00:23:17,551 --> 00:23:22,206 you see the central vimana, or the main tower... 463 00:23:22,206 --> 00:23:24,034 -And the inner sanctum. 464 00:23:24,034 --> 00:23:28,896 -Now this is exactly in the centre of this outer square. 465 00:23:28,896 --> 00:23:30,275 -Sure. 466 00:23:30,275 --> 00:23:33,862 -This outer square, which we call the back square, 467 00:23:33,862 --> 00:23:39,344 is the original cosmic diagram on which it is laid out... 468 00:23:39,344 --> 00:23:43,620 -Yeah. -...and then that is doubled. 469 00:23:43,620 --> 00:23:47,620 -In many ways, Raja Raja Chola was only doing 470 00:23:47,620 --> 00:23:51,172 what had been done before, on a monumental scale. 471 00:23:51,172 --> 00:23:55,448 The vimana is only a few feet shorter than Westminster Abbey. 472 00:23:55,448 --> 00:23:57,827 But Raja Raja couldn't just do as he pleased here. 473 00:23:57,827 --> 00:24:01,655 He was bound by the rules laid down in the Agamas. 474 00:24:01,655 --> 00:24:03,655 -They prescribe 475 00:24:03,655 --> 00:24:07,655 that you must first prepare the measuring scale. 476 00:24:07,655 --> 00:24:10,448 -So, what are the measurements of this based on? 477 00:24:10,448 --> 00:24:15,068 -The central finger of the builder Raja Raja Chola. 478 00:24:15,068 --> 00:24:16,793 -I imagine it would take 479 00:24:16,793 --> 00:24:19,586 quite a few multiples of Raja Raja's middle finger 480 00:24:19,586 --> 00:24:23,896 to reach 216 feet to the top of the vimana here, 481 00:24:23,896 --> 00:24:27,586 but he seemed to have his finger in every aspect of the temple. 482 00:24:27,586 --> 00:24:32,413 -This inscription, which says that the King Raja Raja 483 00:24:32,413 --> 00:24:38,068 covered the entire tall vimana at the back with gold. 484 00:24:38,068 --> 00:24:41,103 Tower is called Maha Meru. -Maha Meru. 485 00:24:41,103 --> 00:24:46,068 -"Maha Meru" means "the golden mountain beyond the Himalayas," 486 00:24:46,068 --> 00:24:48,482 which is a mythical mountain. -Sure. 487 00:24:48,482 --> 00:24:52,103 -But that was the place where Shiva is said to reside. 488 00:24:52,103 --> 00:24:54,551 -Yep. Shiva's mountain abode. 489 00:24:54,551 --> 00:24:55,931 -Yeah. 490 00:24:55,931 --> 00:24:59,103 -The inscriptions are extraordinarily comprehensive. 491 00:24:59,103 --> 00:25:02,034 Just like the Tamil Saints who preceded him, 492 00:25:02,034 --> 00:25:04,620 Raja Raja was codifying Hinduism, 493 00:25:04,620 --> 00:25:07,724 recording the operational practices of his temple. 494 00:25:07,724 --> 00:25:11,413 -Every detail, who is responsible, 495 00:25:11,413 --> 00:25:14,965 how much money he was given, for what purpose. 496 00:25:14,965 --> 00:25:19,827 And then he says, at the end, that so long as the sun 497 00:25:19,827 --> 00:25:23,793 and the moon lasts, this gift must be protected. 498 00:25:23,793 --> 00:25:26,448 [ Indistinct conversations ] 499 00:25:26,448 --> 00:25:29,241 -The rules on temple-building which are laid down 500 00:25:29,241 --> 00:25:32,344 in the Agamas were followed by Raja Raja Chola 501 00:25:32,344 --> 00:25:34,655 when he came to build his temple. 502 00:25:34,655 --> 00:25:37,344 But though he was a man of refined aesthetic taste, 503 00:25:37,344 --> 00:25:41,000 he was also an able administrator. 504 00:25:41,000 --> 00:25:45,206 Raja Raja created a multilayered system of government 505 00:25:45,206 --> 00:25:47,965 in which the temple was the central authority 506 00:25:47,965 --> 00:25:51,793 and the largest employer, with a vast permanent workforce 507 00:25:51,793 --> 00:25:54,724 that included priests and ceremonial officers, 508 00:25:54,724 --> 00:25:58,310 financiers, maintenance teams, cooks, and kitchen staff, 509 00:25:58,310 --> 00:26:00,827 but also the most talented youngsters 510 00:26:00,827 --> 00:26:04,206 in the arts of poetry, singing, and dance. 511 00:26:04,206 --> 00:26:07,448 ♪♪ 512 00:26:07,448 --> 00:26:10,482 But beyond its function as a community centre, 513 00:26:10,482 --> 00:26:12,241 workplace, and school, 514 00:26:12,241 --> 00:26:14,689 the primary purpose of a temple is spiritual, 515 00:26:14,689 --> 00:26:18,068 and right at its centre is the shrine of the main deity, 516 00:26:18,068 --> 00:26:21,482 where the devotees come to receive darshan. 517 00:26:21,482 --> 00:26:25,793 ♪♪ 518 00:26:25,793 --> 00:26:28,551 This is the route of circumambulation, 519 00:26:28,551 --> 00:26:32,068 and it leads us to a powerful image at the heart of Hinduism. 520 00:26:32,068 --> 00:26:34,172 ♪♪ 521 00:26:34,172 --> 00:26:36,655 We move from profane to sacred space 522 00:26:36,655 --> 00:26:39,275 as we approach the central shrine. 523 00:26:39,275 --> 00:26:41,586 In this most potent place 524 00:26:41,586 --> 00:26:45,000 is kept a phallic symbol, the lingam. 525 00:26:45,000 --> 00:26:48,034 The lingam is a smooth column of stone 526 00:26:48,034 --> 00:26:52,103 rising out of a circular base that represents the female. 527 00:26:52,103 --> 00:26:55,517 It represents the presence of Shiva, 528 00:26:55,517 --> 00:26:58,896 and to gaze on it is to receive darshan. 529 00:26:58,896 --> 00:27:01,689 The room where it is kept is the direct descendant 530 00:27:01,689 --> 00:27:03,793 of the recess in the back of the cave 531 00:27:03,793 --> 00:27:06,827 that we saw back in Mahabalipuram. 532 00:27:06,827 --> 00:27:11,689 The Nayanmars' concept of supreme personal devotion 533 00:27:11,689 --> 00:27:14,310 to a god like Shiva, meant that you travelled 534 00:27:14,310 --> 00:27:16,655 together on your journey through life. 535 00:27:16,655 --> 00:27:18,793 But even with Shiva's guidance, 536 00:27:18,793 --> 00:27:21,965 where your journey led you was largely up to you. 537 00:27:21,965 --> 00:27:25,793 Reincarnation is a central tenet of all the religions 538 00:27:25,793 --> 00:27:27,586 that originate in India, 539 00:27:27,586 --> 00:27:29,586 and your behaviour during this life 540 00:27:29,586 --> 00:27:32,758 will determine how you return in the next. 541 00:27:32,758 --> 00:27:35,482 ♪♪ 542 00:27:35,482 --> 00:27:37,758 In pursuit of that supreme challenge, 543 00:27:37,758 --> 00:27:41,827 we can see how the form of this remarkable building evolved, 544 00:27:41,827 --> 00:27:44,620 channelling worshippers towards the central shrine 545 00:27:44,620 --> 00:27:47,172 and the presence of the divine. 546 00:27:47,172 --> 00:27:49,724 It's a long way from a forest clearing. 547 00:27:49,724 --> 00:27:52,620 By the time it was finished, the basic precepts 548 00:27:52,620 --> 00:27:55,172 of Hindu worship were set in stone, 549 00:27:55,172 --> 00:27:56,862 but though this building was 550 00:27:56,862 --> 00:27:59,344 the peak of Chola artistic achievement, 551 00:27:59,344 --> 00:28:03,724 their lasting legacy was not in granite at all. 552 00:28:03,724 --> 00:28:06,482 [ Hammering on metal ] 553 00:28:08,206 --> 00:28:10,586 It was in bronze that the Chola craftsmen 554 00:28:10,586 --> 00:28:12,758 established their artistic heritage, 555 00:28:12,758 --> 00:28:15,172 creating beautiful works of sculpture 556 00:28:15,172 --> 00:28:18,793 that are still being replicated today. 557 00:28:18,793 --> 00:28:21,517 Just like the stone masons in Mahabalipuram, 558 00:28:21,517 --> 00:28:24,413 the main subjects for the bronze sculptures made here 559 00:28:24,413 --> 00:28:27,241 are likenesses of the Hindu deities. 560 00:28:27,241 --> 00:28:29,379 ♪♪ 561 00:28:29,379 --> 00:28:32,655 Like the stone Shiva lingam in the temple shrine, 562 00:28:32,655 --> 00:28:35,655 this is another manifestation of Shiva. 563 00:28:35,655 --> 00:28:38,689 Known as the Nataraja, this is an avatar, 564 00:28:38,689 --> 00:28:42,620 originally a Hindu word for an incarnation of the deity 565 00:28:42,620 --> 00:28:44,965 when they descend to the earth. 566 00:28:44,965 --> 00:28:48,689 In this form, Shiva is the cosmic dancer, 567 00:28:48,689 --> 00:28:49,931 creating the universe 568 00:28:49,931 --> 00:28:53,896 while stamping down the dwarf of ignorance. 569 00:28:53,896 --> 00:28:57,896 These bronze deities are made in every size, 570 00:28:57,896 --> 00:28:59,793 from the largest temple figures 571 00:28:59,793 --> 00:29:03,620 to the smallest domestic gods for a bedroom shrine. 572 00:29:03,620 --> 00:29:07,413 The material allows for a fluidity of movement, 573 00:29:07,413 --> 00:29:09,896 softer expressions and gestures, 574 00:29:09,896 --> 00:29:13,310 communicating messages of benevolence and forgiveness. 575 00:29:13,310 --> 00:29:16,689 And the more beautiful and refined the bronze god is, 576 00:29:16,689 --> 00:29:20,103 the more likely the spirit of the real deity is 577 00:29:20,103 --> 00:29:22,448 to inhabit the sculpture. 578 00:29:22,448 --> 00:29:25,758 ♪♪ 579 00:29:25,758 --> 00:29:28,724 For centuries, the stone gods in the temple shrines 580 00:29:28,724 --> 00:29:31,310 were a fixed and immovable presence, 581 00:29:31,310 --> 00:29:33,517 drawing the faithful to darshan. 582 00:29:33,517 --> 00:29:36,068 But the advent of portable bronze figures 583 00:29:36,068 --> 00:29:39,103 meant that the deities could leave their shrines. 584 00:29:39,103 --> 00:29:41,137 ♪♪ 585 00:29:41,137 --> 00:29:42,758 This is Madurai, 586 00:29:42,758 --> 00:29:45,551 one of the great temple cities of southern India. 587 00:29:45,551 --> 00:29:48,827 The figure on the palanquin is, once again, Shiva. 588 00:29:48,827 --> 00:29:52,448 He is being taken on an excursion around the temple, 589 00:29:52,448 --> 00:29:55,413 and this ceremony shows us how devotional practices 590 00:29:55,413 --> 00:29:58,413 changed in the period after the Tamil Saints. 591 00:29:58,413 --> 00:30:01,689 [ Indistinct shouting ] 592 00:30:04,827 --> 00:30:06,586 The bronze statue of Shiva 593 00:30:06,586 --> 00:30:09,620 is hidden from our view, behind the curtains, 594 00:30:09,620 --> 00:30:11,586 but for the priests carrying him, 595 00:30:11,586 --> 00:30:13,137 he is very real. 596 00:30:13,137 --> 00:30:14,724 He is being taken 597 00:30:14,724 --> 00:30:17,517 to spend the night with his consort, Parvati, 598 00:30:17,517 --> 00:30:21,620 known here by the name of one of her avatars, Meenakshi, 599 00:30:21,620 --> 00:30:24,551 and the tryst will take place in her shrine. 600 00:30:24,551 --> 00:30:27,034 These golden footprints represent Shiva 601 00:30:27,034 --> 00:30:32,344 descending from his palanquin to enter Meenakshi's shrine. 602 00:30:32,344 --> 00:30:34,172 The local legend tells us 603 00:30:34,172 --> 00:30:36,379 that Shiva and Meenakshi were married in Madurai 604 00:30:36,379 --> 00:30:38,655 in a ceremony performed by Vishnu, 605 00:30:38,655 --> 00:30:41,172 and after a long and happy life together 606 00:30:41,172 --> 00:30:44,172 as rulers of the town, they assumed divine form 607 00:30:44,172 --> 00:30:46,965 and she became the deity of this temple. 608 00:30:46,965 --> 00:30:49,034 ♪♪ 609 00:30:49,034 --> 00:30:52,793 There may seem to be an element of mystical pantomime here, 610 00:30:52,793 --> 00:30:56,241 but their mortal followers are being shown an activity 611 00:30:56,241 --> 00:30:58,965 that they can relate to their own lives. 612 00:30:58,965 --> 00:31:03,137 Shiva and Meenakshi consummate their marriage anew each night. 613 00:31:03,137 --> 00:31:07,310 And at dawn, Shiva slips away, back to his own shrine. 614 00:31:07,310 --> 00:31:08,793 [ Indistinct conversations ] 615 00:31:08,793 --> 00:31:10,862 ♪♪ 616 00:31:10,862 --> 00:31:15,000 Madurai is in the deep south of Tamil Nadu. 617 00:31:15,000 --> 00:31:17,689 It's over 2,500 years old 618 00:31:17,689 --> 00:31:19,551 and was mentioned by Greek travellers 619 00:31:19,551 --> 00:31:22,448 when the paint was still wet on the Parthenon. 620 00:31:22,448 --> 00:31:25,724 The sprawling complex of halls and courtyards 621 00:31:25,724 --> 00:31:28,172 that make up its labyrinthine temple 622 00:31:28,172 --> 00:31:31,551 cover an area the size of 25 football pitches, 623 00:31:31,551 --> 00:31:35,517 and it has no less than 14 gopurams. 624 00:31:35,517 --> 00:31:38,586 ♪♪ 625 00:31:38,586 --> 00:31:40,724 The other very visible feature 626 00:31:40,724 --> 00:31:43,448 is the colourful riot of sculpture on the towers. 627 00:31:43,448 --> 00:31:46,000 These plaster figures proclaim to the faithful 628 00:31:46,000 --> 00:31:47,793 just what an army of deities 629 00:31:47,793 --> 00:31:50,137 are working away on behalf of their soul. 630 00:31:50,137 --> 00:31:54,068 But the lurid choice of colours is a fairly recent addition. 631 00:31:54,068 --> 00:31:56,275 ♪♪ 632 00:31:56,275 --> 00:31:58,931 The custodians of the temple, the priestly class 633 00:31:58,931 --> 00:32:01,172 who manage the building and its day-to-day affairs, 634 00:32:01,172 --> 00:32:05,448 are Brahmins - the top rung of the Indian caste system. 635 00:32:05,448 --> 00:32:08,620 At the opposite end of the spectrum are "untouchables," 636 00:32:08,620 --> 00:32:11,724 not considered worthy to enter the temple shrine, 637 00:32:11,724 --> 00:32:14,172 but they, too, need an opportunity 638 00:32:14,172 --> 00:32:16,241 to experience darshan. 639 00:32:16,241 --> 00:32:20,137 ♪♪ 640 00:32:20,137 --> 00:32:22,275 For them and for those who simply feel 641 00:32:22,275 --> 00:32:24,724 they can navigate life without the guiding hand 642 00:32:24,724 --> 00:32:28,103 of a Brahmin priest, there are alternatives. 643 00:32:28,103 --> 00:32:30,862 In a corner of the main temple courtyard, 644 00:32:30,862 --> 00:32:33,103 genuinely accessible to all, 645 00:32:33,103 --> 00:32:35,206 there is a small shrine to Ganesh, 646 00:32:35,206 --> 00:32:39,758 the remover of obstacles, which is extremely busy. 647 00:32:39,758 --> 00:32:42,758 These worshippers are allowed to touch the deity, 648 00:32:42,758 --> 00:32:44,206 to make their own offerings, 649 00:32:44,206 --> 00:32:46,793 and to conduct their own personal rituals. 650 00:32:46,793 --> 00:32:49,241 But by doing so, they remain 651 00:32:49,241 --> 00:32:51,862 very much part of Hindu practices. 652 00:32:51,862 --> 00:32:57,931 ♪♪ 653 00:32:57,931 --> 00:33:01,172 Familiar religious images are now emerging from the temples 654 00:33:01,172 --> 00:33:04,758 and becoming part of mainstream Indian life -- 655 00:33:04,758 --> 00:33:06,586 a process that began with the advent 656 00:33:06,586 --> 00:33:09,586 of cheap colour printing in the late 19th century. 657 00:33:09,586 --> 00:33:13,482 The painter Raja Ravi Varma became hugely popular 658 00:33:13,482 --> 00:33:16,758 by portraying the deities in a contemporary Western style, 659 00:33:16,758 --> 00:33:18,586 using oil paint. 660 00:33:18,586 --> 00:33:21,620 ♪♪ 661 00:33:21,620 --> 00:33:24,379 The performance artist Pushpamala has re-created 662 00:33:24,379 --> 00:33:26,620 his familiar image of the goddess Lakshmi, 663 00:33:26,620 --> 00:33:29,413 casting herself as the deity. 664 00:33:29,413 --> 00:33:32,827 -Lakshmi, of course, is the goddess of wealth, 665 00:33:32,827 --> 00:33:34,965 but Ravi Varma also created 666 00:33:34,965 --> 00:33:39,344 this kind of fair-skinned, aristocratic ideal Indian woman. 667 00:33:39,344 --> 00:33:40,827 -Mm. 668 00:33:40,827 --> 00:33:44,517 Pushpamala has also made work based on a series of photographs 669 00:33:44,517 --> 00:33:47,724 taken by British ethnographers in the 19th century 670 00:33:47,724 --> 00:33:51,413 that sought to categorise the races of India. 671 00:33:51,413 --> 00:33:54,310 These images, being regarded as scientific, 672 00:33:54,310 --> 00:33:55,758 are not concerned to disguise 673 00:33:55,758 --> 00:33:58,689 the darker skin of their subjects. 674 00:33:58,689 --> 00:34:00,655 -In fact, the Andamanese Islander picture 675 00:34:00,655 --> 00:34:02,586 comes from a very famous study, 676 00:34:02,586 --> 00:34:04,551 and they were doing it in all the colonies. 677 00:34:04,551 --> 00:34:07,689 And that was, in a sense, to control and understand, 678 00:34:07,689 --> 00:34:09,965 so that was to kind of really, you know, 679 00:34:09,965 --> 00:34:11,379 get a grasp on the world, 680 00:34:11,379 --> 00:34:14,206 which was rapidly sort of expanding. 681 00:34:14,206 --> 00:34:19,448 -In fact, the term "Hindu" only came into widespread use 682 00:34:19,448 --> 00:34:21,000 during the British Raj, 683 00:34:21,000 --> 00:34:23,655 and these religious and ethnic classifications 684 00:34:23,655 --> 00:34:25,413 certainly contributed 685 00:34:25,413 --> 00:34:29,034 to the rigidity of the Indian caste system. 686 00:34:29,034 --> 00:34:31,034 But once these religious stratifications 687 00:34:31,034 --> 00:34:32,482 had been formulated, 688 00:34:32,482 --> 00:34:36,344 they became a welcome badge for those they labelled. 689 00:34:36,344 --> 00:34:38,000 The temple is still the focus 690 00:34:38,000 --> 00:34:41,034 for the religious life of Hindu communities, 691 00:34:41,034 --> 00:34:43,689 but the younger generation are growing up in a country 692 00:34:43,689 --> 00:34:46,655 where their government now wears this religious badge, 693 00:34:46,655 --> 00:34:50,655 and religion is more present in everyday culture than ever. 694 00:34:50,655 --> 00:34:54,724 ♪♪ 695 00:34:54,724 --> 00:34:57,000 The intensely expressive sculptures 696 00:34:57,000 --> 00:34:58,793 that cover the temple gopurams 697 00:34:58,793 --> 00:35:01,862 are appearing in an unlikely new guise. 698 00:35:01,862 --> 00:35:04,965 The Hindu legends are now being retold in comic art, 699 00:35:04,965 --> 00:35:07,827 and graphic novels based on these ancient stories 700 00:35:07,827 --> 00:35:10,931 are becoming hugely popular. 701 00:35:10,931 --> 00:35:14,034 But for a group of young comic book enthusiasts, 702 00:35:14,034 --> 00:35:17,344 working in a small apartment, these home-grown efforts 703 00:35:17,344 --> 00:35:19,758 retelling the familiar stories of Shiva 704 00:35:19,758 --> 00:35:22,000 need a bit of updating. 705 00:35:22,000 --> 00:35:23,827 Here's their take 706 00:35:23,827 --> 00:35:26,206 on the marriage of Shiva and Meenakshi 707 00:35:26,206 --> 00:35:29,000 that inspired the night ceremony in Madurai. 708 00:35:29,000 --> 00:35:31,793 But the scene has now become a mash-up 709 00:35:31,793 --> 00:35:34,517 of Gotham City and Middle Earth. 710 00:35:34,517 --> 00:35:38,241 -I used to read comics, you know, Superman, Batman. 711 00:35:38,241 --> 00:35:40,655 I love the graphics in those comics. 712 00:35:40,655 --> 00:35:43,793 Then, I read a few comics from Indian publishing houses. 713 00:35:43,793 --> 00:35:46,586 The stories were good, but the graphics were 714 00:35:46,586 --> 00:35:48,172 a little bit obsolete, basically. 715 00:35:48,172 --> 00:35:50,448 I mean, I used to see Marvel, and then I see how much -- 716 00:35:50,448 --> 00:35:51,827 and I see the difference. 717 00:35:51,827 --> 00:35:55,965 So I said, "Why not bring these three together, 718 00:35:55,965 --> 00:35:58,517 where I have graphics which are universal, 719 00:35:58,517 --> 00:36:03,310 and bring in stories which touch our Hindu legends 720 00:36:03,310 --> 00:36:06,482 and bring in the art of narration from Tolkien 721 00:36:06,482 --> 00:36:10,379 and make graphic novels with these three elements?" 722 00:36:10,379 --> 00:36:12,517 -Although the style of the graphics 723 00:36:12,517 --> 00:36:15,275 and the narration are new, for a true Hindu, 724 00:36:15,275 --> 00:36:17,448 there is very little room for innovation 725 00:36:17,448 --> 00:36:19,448 when it comes to the stories. 726 00:36:19,448 --> 00:36:21,379 -It doesn't make any sense to deviate, 727 00:36:21,379 --> 00:36:24,344 because if the story is there, existed, 728 00:36:24,344 --> 00:36:26,655 a lot of people, especially the young ones 729 00:36:26,655 --> 00:36:28,862 or the youth of today or the "Y" generation, 730 00:36:28,862 --> 00:36:31,413 whatever you may call it, in our country and abroad, 731 00:36:31,413 --> 00:36:33,448 don't know much about the story. 732 00:36:33,448 --> 00:36:36,689 And the story itself is so interesting, 733 00:36:36,689 --> 00:36:39,379 why do you want to deviate and rock the boat? 734 00:36:39,379 --> 00:36:41,137 -As keen as these guys are 735 00:36:41,137 --> 00:36:43,206 on sticking to the authentic stories, 736 00:36:43,206 --> 00:36:46,310 they have some interesting ideas about Hinduism. 737 00:36:46,310 --> 00:36:49,034 -Hindu was never a religion, I believe. 738 00:36:49,034 --> 00:36:51,172 This is my personal view. It is a culture. 739 00:36:51,172 --> 00:36:53,586 It was a way of living. 740 00:36:53,586 --> 00:36:56,551 All of the answers are there in the past. 741 00:36:56,551 --> 00:36:58,586 You know, children from all ages 742 00:36:58,586 --> 00:37:00,551 look at the graphic novel and get attracted. 743 00:37:00,551 --> 00:37:02,862 "Wow. This is such appealing art. 744 00:37:02,862 --> 00:37:04,862 I love it. It's so awesome. It's so cool." 745 00:37:04,862 --> 00:37:06,103 Okay, then he starts to read. 746 00:37:06,103 --> 00:37:08,482 And in that whole process, 747 00:37:08,482 --> 00:37:10,068 he understands the story. 748 00:37:10,068 --> 00:37:11,724 That's where we come in. 749 00:37:11,724 --> 00:37:16,586 ♪♪ 750 00:37:16,586 --> 00:37:18,758 -However adroit Hinduism is 751 00:37:18,758 --> 00:37:21,068 at adapting itself to the modern world, 752 00:37:21,068 --> 00:37:24,620 Hindu philosophy is still difficult to reconcile 753 00:37:24,620 --> 00:37:27,620 with Western notions of religious experience. 754 00:37:27,620 --> 00:37:30,310 One of the most fundamental disconnects 755 00:37:30,310 --> 00:37:32,206 between Eastern and Western thought 756 00:37:32,206 --> 00:37:34,931 is represented by Shiva Nataraja, 757 00:37:34,931 --> 00:37:37,275 and his ring of fire. 758 00:37:37,275 --> 00:37:39,379 Today, in many fields, 759 00:37:39,379 --> 00:37:42,827 India is leading global technological progress. 760 00:37:42,827 --> 00:37:46,000 So, how does it reconcile scientific advances 761 00:37:46,000 --> 00:37:48,793 with ancient myths and legends? 762 00:37:48,793 --> 00:37:51,931 Victorian Christianity was severely tested 763 00:37:51,931 --> 00:37:54,586 by the theories of scientists like Charles Darwin, 764 00:37:54,586 --> 00:37:57,758 and many evangelical Christians still cannot accept 765 00:37:57,758 --> 00:38:00,551 the scientific truth of evolution. 766 00:38:00,551 --> 00:38:04,344 Hinduism, it seems, has no such issues. 767 00:38:04,344 --> 00:38:07,586 Outside the CERN particle research centre in Geneva, 768 00:38:07,586 --> 00:38:11,068 a Shiva Nataraja, donated by the Indian Government, 769 00:38:11,068 --> 00:38:14,275 celebrates the involvement of many Indian tech companies 770 00:38:14,275 --> 00:38:16,241 in the project. 771 00:38:16,241 --> 00:38:19,137 Whether you call it the Large Hadron Collider 772 00:38:19,137 --> 00:38:20,827 or Shiva Nataraja, 773 00:38:20,827 --> 00:38:23,137 the fact that the origins of the universe 774 00:38:23,137 --> 00:38:24,896 lie in a ring of cosmic energy 775 00:38:24,896 --> 00:38:29,103 is just confirmation of something Hindus already knew. 776 00:38:29,103 --> 00:38:32,000 ♪♪ 777 00:38:32,000 --> 00:38:34,241 -I can be a Hindu 778 00:38:34,241 --> 00:38:38,448 without having to subscribe to a particular god, 779 00:38:38,448 --> 00:38:40,344 to a particular book, 780 00:38:40,344 --> 00:38:42,827 or to a particular religious practice, 781 00:38:42,827 --> 00:38:47,172 which means that I can be completely independent, 782 00:38:47,172 --> 00:38:49,793 I can have my own view of the world, 783 00:38:49,793 --> 00:38:52,241 I can have my own view of the universe, 784 00:38:52,241 --> 00:38:57,482 and I can accommodate different views from different systems 785 00:38:57,482 --> 00:39:00,586 and synthesise them in my mind. 786 00:39:00,586 --> 00:39:03,103 ♪♪ 787 00:39:03,103 --> 00:39:05,413 -For a Hindu, the black water, 788 00:39:05,413 --> 00:39:07,758 the Indus river or the Indian Ocean, 789 00:39:07,758 --> 00:39:11,000 mark the boundaries of their homeland. 790 00:39:11,000 --> 00:39:12,689 In the days before mass travel, 791 00:39:12,689 --> 00:39:15,517 to cross the black water and leave India 792 00:39:15,517 --> 00:39:17,517 was to cease to be a Hindu, 793 00:39:17,517 --> 00:39:19,413 and the rise of Hindu nationalism 794 00:39:19,413 --> 00:39:20,931 has reinforced the idea 795 00:39:20,931 --> 00:39:23,620 that to be Indian is to be Hindu, 796 00:39:23,620 --> 00:39:25,310 and vice versa. 797 00:39:25,310 --> 00:39:28,827 But Hindu nationalism is directly at odds 798 00:39:28,827 --> 00:39:30,655 with its inclusive tradition. 799 00:39:30,655 --> 00:39:33,482 And as India emerges as a major economic force 800 00:39:33,482 --> 00:39:35,793 at the forefront of globalisation, 801 00:39:35,793 --> 00:39:38,241 the role of Hinduism in its society 802 00:39:38,241 --> 00:39:40,241 is becoming incendiary. 803 00:39:40,241 --> 00:39:44,413 [ Fireworks crackling ] 804 00:39:44,413 --> 00:39:46,448 This is the festival of Karthigai, 805 00:39:46,448 --> 00:39:49,068 deep in the Tamil heartlands of southern India. 806 00:39:49,068 --> 00:39:51,758 It celebrates a story from the Hindu scriptures, 807 00:39:51,758 --> 00:39:55,103 which casts Lord Shiva in a very favorable light. 808 00:39:55,103 --> 00:39:57,413 ♪♪ 809 00:39:57,413 --> 00:39:59,517 The central story tells how, 810 00:39:59,517 --> 00:40:02,241 in a moment of celestial competitiveness, 811 00:40:02,241 --> 00:40:04,931 Shiva appeared to Vishnu and Brahma 812 00:40:04,931 --> 00:40:07,344 as an endless flame of light 813 00:40:07,344 --> 00:40:10,620 and challenged them to find his head and his feet. 814 00:40:10,620 --> 00:40:14,034 To cut a long story short -- and it is a long story -- 815 00:40:14,034 --> 00:40:17,482 they fail, and Shiva remains supreme. 816 00:40:17,482 --> 00:40:19,862 Like so many other elements of Hinduism, 817 00:40:19,862 --> 00:40:23,965 this festival offers the devotee a bewildering array of choices. 818 00:40:23,965 --> 00:40:26,689 The basic tale has become freighted with other cargo, 819 00:40:26,689 --> 00:40:30,068 competing traditions that obscure the central meaning 820 00:40:30,068 --> 00:40:31,620 with excess baggage. 821 00:40:31,620 --> 00:40:36,275 In one tradition, the oil lamps ward off evil forces 822 00:40:36,275 --> 00:40:38,344 and bring prosperity and joy. 823 00:40:38,344 --> 00:40:40,793 In another, the relationship of brothers and sisters 824 00:40:40,793 --> 00:40:44,310 is remembered, and siblings exchange gifts. 825 00:40:44,310 --> 00:40:47,931 Yet another tale is the alignment of six stars 826 00:40:47,931 --> 00:40:50,758 at this point in the year, said to represent 827 00:40:50,758 --> 00:40:54,034 the six faces of Murugan, the Hindu god of war. 828 00:40:54,034 --> 00:40:56,000 ♪♪ 829 00:40:56,000 --> 00:40:57,689 The complexity that results 830 00:40:57,689 --> 00:41:00,724 from this amalgamation of myth and celebration 831 00:41:00,724 --> 00:41:03,517 makes it impossible to give a simple answer 832 00:41:03,517 --> 00:41:06,965 to the question, "What is this festival for?" 833 00:41:06,965 --> 00:41:09,275 Quite simply, 834 00:41:09,275 --> 00:41:12,172 though it can mean something different to each person, 835 00:41:12,172 --> 00:41:14,655 everyone can enjoy it together. 836 00:41:14,655 --> 00:41:16,517 And in this simple fact, you have 837 00:41:16,517 --> 00:41:19,241 the secret to Hinduism's success. 838 00:41:19,241 --> 00:41:22,689 ♪♪ 839 00:41:22,689 --> 00:41:25,689 The temples are as busy as they have ever been. 840 00:41:25,689 --> 00:41:27,413 And as their traditions spill out 841 00:41:27,413 --> 00:41:29,758 into mainstream Indian life once more, 842 00:41:29,758 --> 00:41:32,137 their devotees are still seeking answers 843 00:41:32,137 --> 00:41:34,413 to questions that are eternal. 844 00:41:34,413 --> 00:41:37,310 ♪♪ 845 00:41:37,310 --> 00:41:39,137 The many different religions 846 00:41:39,137 --> 00:41:42,241 that have vied for the souls of the faithful over the centuries 847 00:41:42,241 --> 00:41:45,517 have left a rich legacy in these lands. 848 00:41:45,517 --> 00:41:48,206 The haunting relics of the Buddhist culture 849 00:41:48,206 --> 00:41:50,344 are now just ruins, 850 00:41:50,344 --> 00:41:52,103 but their beautiful devotional art 851 00:41:52,103 --> 00:41:54,793 reminds us of their remarkable achievements. 852 00:41:54,793 --> 00:41:56,724 ♪♪ 853 00:41:56,724 --> 00:41:59,551 The great mosques and mausoleums of the Mughal conquest 854 00:41:59,551 --> 00:42:03,896 are architectural masterpieces, venerated around the world, 855 00:42:03,896 --> 00:42:07,206 and the skill of their painters and their musical heritage 856 00:42:07,206 --> 00:42:11,172 are as cherished today as they have always been. 857 00:42:11,172 --> 00:42:14,724 5,000 years ago, when the first great urban settlements 858 00:42:14,724 --> 00:42:17,344 grew up on the banks of the Indus River, 859 00:42:17,344 --> 00:42:20,517 the citizens had to devise ways of living together 860 00:42:20,517 --> 00:42:22,758 in some of the world's first cities, 861 00:42:22,758 --> 00:42:25,275 and they face similar problems now. 862 00:42:25,275 --> 00:42:28,620 But as we know, in the Hindu worldview, 863 00:42:28,620 --> 00:42:31,931 time is cyclical, not linear. 864 00:42:31,931 --> 00:42:33,620 The cities of these lands today 865 00:42:33,620 --> 00:42:37,482 have to find new strategies to support vast populations, 866 00:42:37,482 --> 00:42:41,034 but they have a genius for coping with immense challenges. 867 00:42:41,034 --> 00:42:43,586 And as they strive towards solutions, 868 00:42:43,586 --> 00:42:45,448 it is perhaps some comfort to know 869 00:42:45,448 --> 00:42:47,862 that they have been here before. 870 00:42:47,862 --> 00:42:49,758 In the West, time marches on, 871 00:42:49,758 --> 00:42:53,103 but here, what goes around comes around. 872 00:42:53,103 --> 00:42:56,103 [ South Asian music plays ] 873 00:42:56,103 --> 00:43:05,034 ♪♪ 874 00:43:05,034 --> 00:43:14,000 ♪♪ 875 00:43:14,000 --> 00:43:23,103 ♪♪ 68918

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