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00:00:01,543 --> 00:00:03,586
[TV static drones]
2
00:00:03,670 --> 00:00:05,588
[bright tone]
3
00:00:08,007 --> 00:00:10,969
[dramatic music]
4
00:00:11,052 --> 00:00:18,017
♪ ♪
5
00:01:32,217 --> 00:01:35,053
[speaking Portuguese]
6
00:02:06,793 --> 00:02:08,253
Let's go.
7
00:02:09,879 --> 00:02:13,925
So I have two sisters.
8
00:02:14,008 --> 00:02:17,512
The little one,
she's eight years old.
9
00:02:17,595 --> 00:02:19,556
- [laughs]
10
00:02:19,639 --> 00:02:22,350
- The other sister,
she passed away
11
00:02:22,433 --> 00:02:24,143
when I was nine years old.
12
00:02:40,285 --> 00:02:43,246
- [speaking Portuguese]
13
00:02:52,505 --> 00:02:54,966
- I never told this
to much people,
14
00:02:55,049 --> 00:02:56,926
but when she passed away,
15
00:02:57,010 --> 00:03:01,180
that's when I got
really into surfing.
16
00:03:01,264 --> 00:03:03,224
Tried to clear my head.
17
00:03:11,441 --> 00:03:13,401
- Surfing big waves,
you can die, no?
18
00:03:13,484 --> 00:03:17,071
But as he said,
you can die doing anything.
19
00:03:17,155 --> 00:03:19,240
I'm not scared because I know
that it's nothing
20
00:03:19,324 --> 00:03:21,576
that I can't control, you know?
21
00:03:21,659 --> 00:03:25,288
I can't change how life works.
22
00:03:25,371 --> 00:03:29,751
It just helps me to enjoy
everything that life gives me.
23
00:03:29,834 --> 00:03:36,841
♪ ♪
24
00:04:21,260 --> 00:04:22,470
- Close your eyes.
25
00:04:24,764 --> 00:04:27,058
Feel the moment, baby.
- [laughs]
26
00:04:27,141 --> 00:04:30,061
[sweeping music]
27
00:04:30,144 --> 00:04:33,648
♪ ♪
28
00:04:33,731 --> 00:04:37,360
- Iceland was
definitely on my radar.
29
00:04:37,443 --> 00:04:40,446
But the word "Iceland" doesn't
sound very appealing to me.
30
00:04:40,530 --> 00:04:44,867
Like, I have a hard enough time
in Nazaré when it's windy.
31
00:04:44,951 --> 00:04:47,161
- Camera, speed.
- Action.
32
00:04:47,245 --> 00:04:48,371
- We were going there
for Thule,
33
00:04:48,454 --> 00:04:49,539
for a branding video,
34
00:04:49,622 --> 00:04:50,957
and they were funding
35
00:04:51,040 --> 00:04:53,918
getting from Hawaii
to Portugal.
36
00:04:54,002 --> 00:04:55,878
So it was a no-brainer.
37
00:04:55,962 --> 00:04:57,422
Whoa.
38
00:04:57,505 --> 00:04:59,132
I've seen some things
here and there
39
00:04:59,215 --> 00:05:00,800
through the years,
40
00:05:00,883 --> 00:05:03,386
but I didn't know much.
41
00:05:03,469 --> 00:05:07,473
The place was so beautiful,
so powerful, so amazing.
42
00:05:08,891 --> 00:05:12,603
Everywhere's green.
There's no trees.
43
00:05:12,687 --> 00:05:16,024
Felt like you're on the moon.
44
00:05:16,107 --> 00:05:18,943
Whoa, didn't notice that.
45
00:05:19,027 --> 00:05:22,405
Like that one.
Try that one, bro.
46
00:05:22,488 --> 00:05:26,576
- Like these ones?
- Yeah, those look good.
47
00:05:26,659 --> 00:05:28,703
- When we went to Iceland,
48
00:05:28,786 --> 00:05:31,748
Garrett really wanted
to take Barrel surfing.
49
00:05:31,831 --> 00:05:36,210
And I know Garrett wants to be
super pushy with Barrel,
50
00:05:36,294 --> 00:05:39,255
but I think he knows
if he's too pushy,
51
00:05:39,338 --> 00:05:41,549
that Barrel will
just never surf
52
00:05:41,632 --> 00:05:43,843
another day in his life.
53
00:05:43,926 --> 00:05:45,762
- I want him to do
what he wants to do,
54
00:05:45,845 --> 00:05:49,098
but I just feel like
Barrel has this opportunity
55
00:05:49,182 --> 00:05:51,476
to make a career
out of surfing,
56
00:05:51,559 --> 00:05:54,270
which I think is the best job
in the world.
57
00:05:54,353 --> 00:05:56,189
And he doesn't even have
to ride big waves.
58
00:05:56,272 --> 00:05:57,398
He can just go get barreled.
59
00:05:57,482 --> 00:05:58,858
His name is Barrel
and he gets barreled,
60
00:05:58,941 --> 00:06:00,109
and that's all he's gotta do.
61
00:06:00,193 --> 00:06:01,527
Oh, wow.
62
00:06:01,611 --> 00:06:05,073
Right? It actually looks good.
63
00:06:05,156 --> 00:06:06,824
- It looks big.
64
00:06:06,908 --> 00:06:09,410
- I think it was
a little too big for him,
65
00:06:09,494 --> 00:06:11,829
considering it's a new spot
he's never been to
66
00:06:11,913 --> 00:06:13,498
and it's freezing.
67
00:06:16,542 --> 00:06:18,127
- You sure you don't wanna go
catch a wave?
68
00:06:18,211 --> 00:06:19,253
- Yeah.
69
00:06:19,337 --> 00:06:21,506
- Little too cold?
70
00:06:21,589 --> 00:06:24,467
- I'm definitely glad
I'm not Barrel.
71
00:06:24,550 --> 00:06:27,970
That's what happens
when you're good at something.
72
00:06:28,054 --> 00:06:29,305
- No, it's not.
73
00:06:29,388 --> 00:06:32,475
It's when you're a kid
and you have a bossy dad.
74
00:06:32,558 --> 00:06:35,520
- A bossy dad?
You think Dad's bossy?
75
00:06:35,603 --> 00:06:38,606
- To me.
- Really?
76
00:06:38,689 --> 00:06:42,110
You know, sometimes,
he can push people,
77
00:06:42,193 --> 00:06:43,778
and sometimes, he can be pushy.
78
00:06:45,696 --> 00:06:49,200
But it was really nice
for him to be present.
79
00:06:51,077 --> 00:06:54,497
And I can hope it just lasts
for the rest of our life.
80
00:06:54,580 --> 00:06:59,585
♪ ♪
81
00:07:20,064 --> 00:07:21,858
[thud]
- Ahh!
82
00:07:21,941 --> 00:07:24,527
- Coming, Mom.
[indistinct chatter]
83
00:07:26,571 --> 00:07:27,864
- What's up with you?
84
00:07:27,947 --> 00:07:29,782
Here, take a pause
and eat your soup, kay?
85
00:07:29,866 --> 00:07:32,326
We only planned
on having one child.
86
00:07:33,452 --> 00:07:34,996
- After you--
when you finish you soup.
87
00:07:35,079 --> 00:07:37,707
Barrel! Come eat soup.
88
00:07:37,790 --> 00:07:39,000
But here we are.
89
00:07:39,083 --> 00:07:41,127
- [squealing]
90
00:07:41,210 --> 00:07:42,670
- So Garrett's like,
"Let's have this one
91
00:07:42,753 --> 00:07:43,838
in Portugal,"
and I'm just like,
92
00:07:43,921 --> 00:07:46,883
"Ah, but it's gonna be winter.
93
00:07:46,966 --> 00:07:49,719
"I'll, you know, have my things
in Hawaii.
94
00:07:49,802 --> 00:07:51,512
"I have my people.
I have my food.
95
00:07:51,596 --> 00:07:54,056
I have--it's warm."
96
00:07:54,140 --> 00:07:56,893
But with the big wave season
and everything,
97
00:07:56,976 --> 00:07:58,561
it's like, okay, well,
if we're in Hawaii
98
00:07:58,644 --> 00:08:00,396
and a big wave comes
to Nazaré,
99
00:08:00,479 --> 00:08:02,356
like, Garrett's not gonna
be able to leave,
100
00:08:02,440 --> 00:08:05,484
and if the perfect swell comes,
he would want to be here.
101
00:08:05,568 --> 00:08:07,195
Barrel!
102
00:08:07,278 --> 00:08:08,738
- Dad, can you hold
the door back?
103
00:08:08,821 --> 00:08:10,698
- You have three seconds
to get here.
104
00:08:10,781 --> 00:08:11,699
- What's that?
105
00:08:11,782 --> 00:08:13,409
- So that helped make
the decision
106
00:08:13,492 --> 00:08:16,537
to have the baby
and spend the winter here
107
00:08:16,621 --> 00:08:18,372
in Nazaré.
108
00:08:18,456 --> 00:08:21,042
[kids babbling]
109
00:08:29,175 --> 00:08:30,760
- I don't remember
exactly how I found out
110
00:08:30,843 --> 00:08:32,595
about child number three.
111
00:08:32,678 --> 00:08:33,804
It seemed like
one of Garrett's jokes
112
00:08:33,888 --> 00:08:35,890
or Nicole's jokes, like,
"Yeah, we got another one."
113
00:08:35,973 --> 00:08:37,767
We're like, "Wow!"
114
00:08:37,850 --> 00:08:41,145
You know, there's this energy
of, "Don't we have enough?"
115
00:08:41,229 --> 00:08:42,396
- [mimics gunshot]
116
00:08:42,480 --> 00:08:44,398
- Garrett seemed like
he was doing the Nicole thing
117
00:08:44,482 --> 00:08:46,734
where she convinces herself
to know it's okay
118
00:08:46,817 --> 00:08:48,444
and he was, like,
convincing himself
119
00:08:48,527 --> 00:08:49,487
to be excited about it.
120
00:08:49,570 --> 00:08:50,905
- We were all really excited.
121
00:08:50,988 --> 00:08:53,282
I was the most excited
I've been
122
00:08:53,366 --> 00:08:56,911
of--out of the other--yeah.
123
00:08:56,994 --> 00:09:00,373
I was very, very excited.
124
00:09:00,456 --> 00:09:03,626
[exciting music]
125
00:09:03,709 --> 00:09:05,670
- Going into this season,
I don't think it was so much,
126
00:09:05,753 --> 00:09:08,839
like, him riding
the biggest wave of the year,
127
00:09:08,923 --> 00:09:10,925
but he doesn't want
to be retired
128
00:09:11,008 --> 00:09:13,970
and not part of the culture.
129
00:09:14,053 --> 00:09:16,138
And since his wipeout
at Jaws...
130
00:09:16,222 --> 00:09:18,015
- Dad.
- Go, Garrett! Yeah!
131
00:09:18,099 --> 00:09:21,519
- Oh!
- No! Oh!
132
00:09:21,602 --> 00:09:22,770
- You all right?
- Yeah.
133
00:09:22,853 --> 00:09:25,231
- There's been a fear in him
that he never had before.
134
00:09:25,314 --> 00:09:28,776
- [coughing]
- He's not the same.
135
00:09:28,859 --> 00:09:30,236
But I don't think
he's figured it out.
136
00:09:35,032 --> 00:09:38,494
- FOMO. It's pure FOMO.
137
00:09:38,577 --> 00:09:40,913
Like, you know, he sees
all the young guys doing it.
138
00:09:40,997 --> 00:09:42,373
- [grunting]
139
00:09:47,253 --> 00:09:48,879
- Garrett's like,
"Get me out there."
140
00:09:48,963 --> 00:09:51,048
I don't think
he'll ever lose that.
141
00:09:51,132 --> 00:09:53,843
I think it's just a process
that he's going through,
142
00:09:53,926 --> 00:09:55,720
and I'm totally supportive
of it
143
00:09:55,803 --> 00:10:00,182
because if it gets him
to a place of, like, peace,
144
00:10:00,266 --> 00:10:02,643
I think he would be great.
145
00:10:11,569 --> 00:10:15,156
- [exhaling sharply]
146
00:10:15,239 --> 00:10:16,991
I've been in Nazaré, like,
147
00:10:17,074 --> 00:10:20,369
just over six weeks,
seven weeks.
148
00:10:20,453 --> 00:10:23,039
Yeah, beginning of the season.
149
00:10:23,122 --> 00:10:26,125
I'm renting a house
for the first time.
150
00:10:26,208 --> 00:10:27,209
Van life was cool,
151
00:10:27,293 --> 00:10:29,378
but doing it for six months,
like, that's it.
152
00:10:29,462 --> 00:10:30,588
It's just like,
by the end of it,
153
00:10:30,671 --> 00:10:32,715
it was hard work, you know?
154
00:10:32,798 --> 00:10:33,758
[sighs]
155
00:10:46,145 --> 00:10:47,605
- [laughs]
156
00:10:47,688 --> 00:10:50,316
Uh, well, yeah.
157
00:10:50,399 --> 00:10:52,693
I met Justine, and we've been
getting on really well,
158
00:10:52,777 --> 00:10:55,529
and we're enjoying it.
159
00:10:55,613 --> 00:10:57,198
- Prior to meeting Cotty,
160
00:10:57,281 --> 00:10:59,533
what was your experience
with big wave surfing?
161
00:10:59,617 --> 00:11:01,535
- Oh, none. None.
162
00:11:10,586 --> 00:11:11,921
- Justine gets it.
163
00:11:12,004 --> 00:11:16,675
She gets the sacrifices.
She gets the training.
164
00:11:16,759 --> 00:11:17,760
It's been life-changing.
165
00:11:26,185 --> 00:11:29,105
[light orchestral music]
166
00:11:29,188 --> 00:11:35,236
♪ ♪
167
00:11:35,319 --> 00:11:37,029
- [speaking Portuguese]
168
00:11:40,157 --> 00:11:41,617
[both laugh]
169
00:12:13,190 --> 00:12:16,110
[bells chiming]
170
00:12:16,193 --> 00:12:18,946
[music building]
171
00:12:19,029 --> 00:12:25,453
♪ ♪
172
00:12:25,536 --> 00:12:29,039
- This season,
the main goal I had in my head
173
00:12:29,123 --> 00:12:31,917
was the tow-in contest.
174
00:12:53,481 --> 00:12:55,107
- I don't think
people took notice of Tony
175
00:12:55,191 --> 00:12:56,400
until this year, you know?
176
00:12:56,484 --> 00:12:58,486
He's stepped his game up
so much this year.
177
00:12:58,569 --> 00:12:59,778
He's gotten so good.
178
00:13:01,822 --> 00:13:05,326
- You can see that he's,
like, pushing himself.
179
00:13:05,409 --> 00:13:09,371
He's trying. He's learning.
He's super dedicated.
180
00:13:22,968 --> 00:13:25,221
Nah.
[groans]
181
00:13:25,304 --> 00:13:28,933
I got some solid pounding.
I was not expecting that.
182
00:13:29,016 --> 00:13:31,268
Ahh.
183
00:13:31,352 --> 00:13:34,271
[bell ringing]
184
00:13:34,355 --> 00:13:37,233
[sweeping music]
185
00:13:37,316 --> 00:13:40,319
♪ ♪
186
00:13:49,870 --> 00:13:52,831
[speaking Portuguese]
187
00:14:01,048 --> 00:14:03,926
- [speaking Portuguese]
188
00:14:19,817 --> 00:14:26,615
♪ ♪
189
00:14:30,327 --> 00:14:33,205
- I like contests.
It's part of my job.
190
00:14:33,289 --> 00:14:36,417
But after the season
of 2020, '21,
191
00:14:36,500 --> 00:14:40,254
I had the best season
of my life so far,
192
00:14:40,337 --> 00:14:44,550
so going for a new season
was tough.
193
00:14:44,633 --> 00:14:47,469
Like, super tough.
194
00:14:47,553 --> 00:14:50,306
- After Mavericks and Jaws,
195
00:14:50,389 --> 00:14:53,767
we came back and were like,
"That was crazy," you know?
196
00:14:53,851 --> 00:14:56,812
Like, every single trip was
197
00:14:56,895 --> 00:15:00,441
one achievement of a lifetime
of a big wave surfer.
198
00:15:00,524 --> 00:15:02,610
We didn't really know
what to do.
199
00:15:02,693 --> 00:15:04,403
- You feel like
you reach something,
200
00:15:04,486 --> 00:15:07,156
but then I need
a different challenge.
201
00:15:07,239 --> 00:15:10,117
I want to experience
something air,
202
00:15:10,200 --> 00:15:12,620
something new, something more.
203
00:15:24,048 --> 00:15:25,841
Nice. [indistinct].
204
00:15:25,924 --> 00:15:28,844
[both laugh]
205
00:15:28,927 --> 00:15:29,928
[indistinct chatter]
206
00:15:39,271 --> 00:15:40,522
[both laugh]
207
00:15:51,575 --> 00:15:53,535
- Yeah.
[squeals, laughs]
208
00:15:58,749 --> 00:16:00,000
For sure. This one.
- Yeah.
209
00:16:00,084 --> 00:16:01,335
- [laughs]
210
00:16:06,465 --> 00:16:09,301
- I knew that I was
going to Nazaré this fall.
211
00:16:11,178 --> 00:16:14,431
But I still didn't know
if I was going to surf!
212
00:16:14,515 --> 00:16:16,642
I knew that I was going
to support Garrett
213
00:16:16,725 --> 00:16:18,644
and his surfing
and support the family
214
00:16:18,727 --> 00:16:20,562
and, like, number one,
support my sister.
215
00:16:20,646 --> 00:16:23,857
She was going over there
to birth her child.
216
00:16:23,941 --> 00:16:25,859
And also just by being
with the kids,
217
00:16:25,943 --> 00:16:26,944
with Barrel and Theia.
218
00:16:27,027 --> 00:16:28,862
You know, it takes some load
off of Nicole.
219
00:16:28,946 --> 00:16:31,532
Oh, you are stylin'.
220
00:16:31,615 --> 00:16:33,909
What shoes is it gonna be?
What's the shoes?
221
00:16:33,992 --> 00:16:37,579
But the progression
of the fall season in Nazaré
222
00:16:37,663 --> 00:16:42,126
just kept getting
more and more intense.
223
00:16:42,209 --> 00:16:43,502
Not long after I get there,
224
00:16:43,585 --> 00:16:45,546
the whole family gets floored
with COVID.
225
00:16:45,629 --> 00:16:48,424
[tense music]
226
00:16:48,507 --> 00:16:51,301
- Garrett complained
he wasn't feeling good.
227
00:16:51,385 --> 00:16:53,929
He takes a test...
228
00:16:54,012 --> 00:16:57,433
♪ ♪
229
00:16:57,516 --> 00:16:59,643
And we all get COVID.
230
00:16:59,727 --> 00:17:03,063
- Came on slow.
231
00:17:03,147 --> 00:17:06,942
Then that night,
it was something else.
232
00:17:07,025 --> 00:17:09,403
It was super interesting.
233
00:17:09,486 --> 00:17:10,612
- So I called my midwife
234
00:17:10,696 --> 00:17:12,614
crying hysterically
that I have COVID,
235
00:17:12,698 --> 00:17:14,408
and she's like, "It's okay.
We're gonna get through this.
236
00:17:14,491 --> 00:17:15,951
You're gonna be fine.
You're gonna be fine."
237
00:17:16,034 --> 00:17:17,619
[coughing]
I was like, "Oh, my God.
238
00:17:17,703 --> 00:17:19,288
"What am I gonna do?
239
00:17:19,371 --> 00:17:21,582
"I've got these two kids.
I have to feed them.
240
00:17:21,665 --> 00:17:23,834
Everything is gonna be chaos."
241
00:17:27,880 --> 00:17:31,425
- Um, the kids.
242
00:17:31,508 --> 00:17:32,676
See?
243
00:17:35,387 --> 00:17:37,514
I love you, Theia.
244
00:17:37,598 --> 00:17:40,058
It went downhill really fast.
245
00:17:40,142 --> 00:17:43,103
[coughing]
246
00:17:44,563 --> 00:17:47,441
We couldn't even move.
247
00:17:47,524 --> 00:17:49,109
Garrett lost his appetite.
248
00:17:49,193 --> 00:17:51,111
He didn't eat.
He didn't sleep.
249
00:17:51,195 --> 00:17:52,321
But I couldn't even worry
about him
250
00:17:52,404 --> 00:17:53,363
'cause I was so sick.
251
00:17:53,447 --> 00:17:54,948
[coughing]
252
00:17:55,032 --> 00:17:57,951
Don't even Google
pregnant ladies and COVID.
253
00:17:58,035 --> 00:17:59,203
[coughs]
254
00:18:19,890 --> 00:18:21,183
- Yeah.
255
00:18:21,266 --> 00:18:22,851
Until last night.
256
00:18:24,269 --> 00:18:26,146
So we get through the COVID.
257
00:18:27,731 --> 00:18:28,816
- Sup, buddy?
258
00:18:28,899 --> 00:18:30,025
- But my back's still out,
259
00:18:30,108 --> 00:18:31,985
and as soon
as I tested negative,
260
00:18:32,069 --> 00:18:34,488
my liver shut down.
261
00:18:34,571 --> 00:18:35,864
- Was this COVID-induced?
262
00:18:35,948 --> 00:18:37,658
- 100%.
263
00:18:37,741 --> 00:18:40,494
So I went
and had blood work done.
264
00:18:40,577 --> 00:18:43,413
I started
this very strict diet.
265
00:18:43,497 --> 00:18:46,333
I was doing Chinese herbs.
266
00:18:46,416 --> 00:18:48,252
Acupuncture.
267
00:18:48,335 --> 00:18:51,004
I was doing
everything humanly possible
268
00:18:51,088 --> 00:18:54,424
to get my levels low enough
and in control
269
00:18:54,508 --> 00:18:57,052
to be able to let the baby come
270
00:18:57,135 --> 00:19:00,597
whenever the baby wanted
to come.
271
00:19:00,681 --> 00:19:02,933
And, you know,
before we had COVID,
272
00:19:03,016 --> 00:19:07,062
I had this weird fear
of dying during childbirth.
273
00:19:07,145 --> 00:19:09,189
Like, bleeding out.
274
00:19:09,273 --> 00:19:11,191
And now
I have a liver condition,
275
00:19:11,275 --> 00:19:13,986
so I'm afraid
of my baby dying.
276
00:19:14,069 --> 00:19:16,154
- I've never seen Nicole
so afraid.
277
00:19:22,452 --> 00:19:25,205
- She was--I mean, I've never
seen her break down so much.
278
00:19:25,289 --> 00:19:28,792
It was--yeah, it was
really challenging to watch.
279
00:19:28,876 --> 00:19:33,589
I just had to stay positive
and stay strong.
280
00:19:33,672 --> 00:19:37,885
I chose to know that
everything was gonna be okay.
281
00:19:39,136 --> 00:19:40,596
- You know,
he has to stay busy
282
00:19:40,679 --> 00:19:42,931
so that he doesn't feel
his feelings.
283
00:19:43,015 --> 00:19:45,267
So when all of this
is happening,
284
00:19:45,350 --> 00:19:48,437
Garrett was still looking
at the projected storms
285
00:19:48,520 --> 00:19:53,066
and swells and wind
and rain and...
286
00:19:53,150 --> 00:19:55,277
[line beeps]
287
00:19:56,862 --> 00:19:57,863
- Hey, Alemao.
288
00:19:58,864 --> 00:20:02,451
- I'm just finalizing
the water safety
289
00:20:02,534 --> 00:20:03,952
for the event.
290
00:20:04,036 --> 00:20:06,955
- And for this season's
WSL contest,
291
00:20:07,039 --> 00:20:11,585
they officially made him
the contest director.
292
00:20:11,668 --> 00:20:16,965
So his responsibility was
to publicly make the call
293
00:20:17,049 --> 00:20:19,009
of when the contest
is gonna run.
294
00:20:19,092 --> 00:20:20,469
- Where are we at?
Where are we at?
295
00:20:20,552 --> 00:20:22,137
All right, well,
let's manifest this thing
296
00:20:22,221 --> 00:20:24,056
happening over the next
two to three weeks,
297
00:20:24,139 --> 00:20:25,641
maybe even quicker.
298
00:20:25,724 --> 00:20:28,810
The swell that's coming through
looks very interesting.
299
00:20:28,894 --> 00:20:30,312
It should be big.
300
00:20:33,023 --> 00:20:34,566
- I definitely think
Sunday's big enough
301
00:20:34,650 --> 00:20:37,027
if what's predicted right now
shows up.
302
00:20:37,110 --> 00:20:37,986
Totally big enough...
303
00:20:38,070 --> 00:20:40,113
- He has to manage the teams,
304
00:20:40,197 --> 00:20:43,241
like, who's invited,
who's teamed up,
305
00:20:43,325 --> 00:20:45,118
who's not invited.
306
00:20:45,202 --> 00:20:47,788
- The main way you get in
is if you can surf really good
307
00:20:47,871 --> 00:20:50,040
and drive in Nazaré.
308
00:20:51,708 --> 00:20:52,834
A bad driver,
309
00:20:52,918 --> 00:20:54,670
somebody whose ski
ends up on the rocks,
310
00:20:54,753 --> 00:20:56,838
and then you gotta go
rescue 'em.
311
00:20:56,922 --> 00:21:00,092
And that's a liability.
312
00:21:00,175 --> 00:21:03,011
It would be nice to open it up
to a bigger field,
313
00:21:03,095 --> 00:21:05,931
but with the small window
we have,
314
00:21:06,014 --> 00:21:08,058
we gotta get
as many surfers as possible
315
00:21:08,141 --> 00:21:09,184
in that short window.
316
00:21:09,267 --> 00:21:11,687
[line trilling]
So you gotta be able to drive.
317
00:21:11,770 --> 00:21:13,814
[phone rings]
318
00:21:13,897 --> 00:21:15,816
- Hello.
- What up?
319
00:21:15,899 --> 00:21:18,568
- I wanted to talk to you
about the contest.
320
00:21:18,652 --> 00:21:20,028
- Yo. What's up, Garrett?
321
00:21:20,112 --> 00:21:21,989
- I wanted to invite Michelle
to be in it
322
00:21:22,072 --> 00:21:23,031
if she wants to.
323
00:21:23,115 --> 00:21:26,201
- Yeah, she's ready.
- I'm ready. Amazing.
324
00:21:26,284 --> 00:21:27,285
- Michelle got invited,
325
00:21:27,369 --> 00:21:30,163
and then with her
came along Ian.
326
00:21:39,840 --> 00:21:40,882
- Good.
327
00:21:40,966 --> 00:21:43,343
Justine has become
one of the best in the world.
328
00:21:43,427 --> 00:21:45,846
- I'm ready.
[laughs]
329
00:21:45,929 --> 00:21:47,556
- [laughs]
Cotty, of course...
330
00:21:47,639 --> 00:21:48,724
- No way.
331
00:21:48,807 --> 00:21:50,892
- I'm always advocating
for Cotty.
332
00:21:50,976 --> 00:21:53,395
And since we were kinda
letting the surfer
333
00:21:53,478 --> 00:21:56,106
choose who they wanted,
it was a big challenge.
334
00:21:56,189 --> 00:21:57,482
I had to make a lot of calls.
335
00:21:57,566 --> 00:21:59,026
Are you thinking
about coming over?
336
00:22:00,777 --> 00:22:04,698
- We just had a call,
and it looks like 99% running.
337
00:22:06,992 --> 00:22:09,578
- So for safety,
338
00:22:09,661 --> 00:22:12,706
we're gonna make it more of,
like, a family kind of--
339
00:22:12,789 --> 00:22:16,084
everybody help everybody,
look out for everybody.
340
00:22:16,168 --> 00:22:18,045
Does that sound okay for you?
341
00:22:20,672 --> 00:22:21,590
- Amazing.
342
00:22:21,673 --> 00:22:23,258
So you'd be on the ski
tomorrow.
343
00:22:23,341 --> 00:22:26,470
So I'm trying to see
if there's a spot for you.
344
00:22:26,553 --> 00:22:28,263
I just wanted to see
345
00:22:28,346 --> 00:22:30,599
if there was interest
on your side.
346
00:22:31,266 --> 00:22:34,061
- Do you have any idea
who you would work with?
347
00:22:35,771 --> 00:22:37,230
- There are so many people
348
00:22:37,314 --> 00:22:39,232
that I would love to see
in the event,
349
00:22:39,316 --> 00:22:42,110
so many people that deserve
to be in the event.
350
00:22:45,363 --> 00:22:47,574
- They sent me an email.
351
00:22:47,657 --> 00:22:49,743
Okay.
352
00:22:49,826 --> 00:22:51,411
And they had the teams there,
353
00:22:51,495 --> 00:22:53,163
and I saw
my name wasn't there.
354
00:22:57,793 --> 00:22:59,961
- I mean, I wasn't--I was--
355
00:23:00,045 --> 00:23:01,797
[laughs]
356
00:23:01,880 --> 00:23:04,841
[tense music]
357
00:23:04,925 --> 00:23:06,134
♪ ♪
358
00:23:06,218 --> 00:23:09,596
- Tony was putting
a lot of time in.
359
00:23:09,679 --> 00:23:11,515
I knew
that he was getting better.
360
00:23:11,598 --> 00:23:14,893
But his ability to drive
in Nazaré was unknown.
361
00:23:14,976 --> 00:23:17,687
I personally didn't know
if he was good or not.
362
00:23:19,397 --> 00:23:22,442
He's been towing out there
so much with his dad.
363
00:23:22,526 --> 00:23:25,320
I never saw him driving.
364
00:23:25,403 --> 00:23:29,116
So we didn't feel safe
with him driving out there.
365
00:23:47,342 --> 00:23:49,678
- Next year, he's gonna be
inside the contest.
366
00:23:49,761 --> 00:23:51,346
- They are saying this,
like, three years now.
367
00:23:51,429 --> 00:23:52,472
- We know that.
- [laughs]
368
00:23:52,556 --> 00:23:54,850
- Yeah, man, I've been waiting
for seven years,
369
00:23:54,933 --> 00:23:56,476
so you're just waiting
for three.
370
00:23:56,560 --> 00:23:58,019
- But I'm Portugal.
I'm from Portugal.
371
00:23:58,103 --> 00:23:59,020
- Okay.
372
00:23:59,104 --> 00:24:00,313
- And the contest
is in Portugal.
373
00:24:00,397 --> 00:24:01,940
It's ridiculous.
374
00:24:02,023 --> 00:24:08,989
♪ ♪
375
00:24:10,907 --> 00:24:12,367
- Here, it's so unpredictable,
376
00:24:12,450 --> 00:24:13,994
but this storm
that we're tracking
377
00:24:14,077 --> 00:24:16,705
hasn't changed
for the last three days,
378
00:24:16,788 --> 00:24:18,498
which is almost unheard of,
379
00:24:18,582 --> 00:24:21,751
so that's why we're really
getting confident on this one,
380
00:24:21,835 --> 00:24:24,880
even though it's still
a good four days out.
381
00:24:24,963 --> 00:24:28,216
The contest is going
yellow alert for Sunday.
382
00:24:28,300 --> 00:24:30,051
- For Sunday the 12th?
383
00:24:34,681 --> 00:24:36,141
- I still got these kids.
384
00:24:38,518 --> 00:24:39,728
- You need it?
385
00:24:42,981 --> 00:24:45,400
I don't care about the waves
right now.
386
00:24:45,483 --> 00:24:50,822
I just need my blood work
to be great today.
387
00:25:00,498 --> 00:25:02,250
- Big wave surfing
is a team sport,
388
00:25:02,334 --> 00:25:04,920
and you need to work
as a team.
389
00:25:05,003 --> 00:25:08,757
If you start playing
individual, you're screwed.
390
00:25:08,840 --> 00:25:11,760
[serious music]
391
00:25:11,843 --> 00:25:13,929
♪ ♪
392
00:25:14,012 --> 00:25:16,973
- Nic von Rupp,
he has been surfing out there
393
00:25:17,057 --> 00:25:19,476
for four or five years.
394
00:25:19,559 --> 00:25:22,938
He was, like, the most
improved last season.
395
00:25:23,021 --> 00:25:26,441
- In 2020, we only had
the October swell.
396
00:25:26,524 --> 00:25:29,319
Due to COVID, the whole season
was canceled, you know?
397
00:25:29,402 --> 00:25:32,614
Like, I feel like
my dreams were postponed.
398
00:25:32,697 --> 00:25:35,742
And when you put so much
fucking effort into this
399
00:25:35,825 --> 00:25:38,078
and nature just doesn't
collaborate with you,
400
00:25:38,161 --> 00:25:39,955
it can get quite frustrating.
401
00:25:41,331 --> 00:25:44,084
Especially if you've been
waiting for so long.
402
00:25:44,167 --> 00:25:47,587
So this season was like
another opportunity, okay?
403
00:25:47,671 --> 00:25:49,005
Like, we are restarting again.
404
00:25:49,089 --> 00:25:50,590
Like, that was the goal
with partnering up
405
00:25:50,674 --> 00:25:51,800
with a rock star like Scooby.
406
00:25:51,883 --> 00:25:55,470
[upbeat music playing]
407
00:25:55,553 --> 00:25:56,846
- [speaking Portuguese]
408
00:25:56,930 --> 00:26:00,642
[energetic piano music]
409
00:26:00,725 --> 00:26:03,812
- Scooby is just
a really fun guy.
410
00:26:03,895 --> 00:26:07,440
There's nothing in his life
he takes serious, you know?
411
00:26:07,524 --> 00:26:09,401
He's the surfer's
Kim Kardashian.
412
00:26:09,484 --> 00:26:11,027
[laughter]
413
00:26:11,111 --> 00:26:12,779
He likes the fame
and the money, you know?
414
00:26:12,862 --> 00:26:14,114
[laughs]
415
00:26:14,197 --> 00:26:15,573
- [laughs]
416
00:26:19,411 --> 00:26:20,578
[laughs]
417
00:26:30,839 --> 00:26:33,133
- He's a great surfer.
Very talented.
418
00:26:33,216 --> 00:26:34,342
Very experienced in his lane.
419
00:26:34,426 --> 00:26:36,553
It's obviously an honor
to partner up with him
420
00:26:36,636 --> 00:26:38,263
'cause we are great friends.
421
00:26:38,346 --> 00:26:40,849
But we're very opposite.
422
00:26:40,932 --> 00:26:41,850
It's always a battle.
423
00:26:41,933 --> 00:26:43,435
Always am calling him like,
"Hey, Scooby,
424
00:26:43,518 --> 00:26:44,811
there's a huge swell.
Are you coming?"
425
00:26:44,894 --> 00:26:46,563
- "Fuck! Let's go!
426
00:26:46,646 --> 00:26:48,148
It's the biggest surf
in history!"
427
00:26:48,231 --> 00:26:50,400
Say, "No, it's not, Nic."
[laughs]
428
00:27:06,333 --> 00:27:08,043
- Scooby always tells me,
"Yeah, yeah, yeah,
429
00:27:08,126 --> 00:27:10,045
let's partner up this year,"
and then I always know
430
00:27:10,128 --> 00:27:12,714
that he's never gonna be here.
431
00:27:12,797 --> 00:27:14,466
That's the difference
between a rock star
432
00:27:14,549 --> 00:27:16,092
and a professional surfer,
you know?
433
00:27:17,802 --> 00:27:20,138
I don't need to check
on Scooby's social network
434
00:27:20,221 --> 00:27:21,473
to know what he's doing.
435
00:27:21,556 --> 00:27:23,725
I know he likes to be home
in Brazil
436
00:27:23,808 --> 00:27:26,478
drinking his caipirinha
in the warmth.
437
00:27:27,187 --> 00:27:31,316
- In his mind, I would not
be there when he needs me.
438
00:27:31,399 --> 00:27:34,235
But in the biggest days,
in the contests,
439
00:27:34,319 --> 00:27:35,695
I would be there, of course.
440
00:27:35,779 --> 00:27:38,698
- [speaking Portuguese]
- I'm here!
441
00:27:38,782 --> 00:27:41,451
- Scooby just arrived
from Brazil.
442
00:27:41,534 --> 00:27:43,703
I had to drag him out of bed
in Brazil.
443
00:27:48,041 --> 00:27:49,209
- He was getting ready
for New Year's.
444
00:27:52,837 --> 00:27:55,423
- I think Scooby's looking
a little fatter.
445
00:27:55,507 --> 00:27:57,467
Lot of pequena, not much sex.
446
00:27:57,550 --> 00:27:59,928
- Not fat. Strong, bro.
447
00:28:00,011 --> 00:28:03,223
[energetic music]
448
00:28:03,306 --> 00:28:04,891
♪ ♪
449
00:28:04,974 --> 00:28:07,560
- I believe in partnerships.
450
00:28:07,644 --> 00:28:09,771
That people make each other
stronger, you know?
451
00:28:11,356 --> 00:28:13,858
When it comes down
to big wave surfing
452
00:28:13,942 --> 00:28:15,944
and riding huge waves
and wave knowledge
453
00:28:16,027 --> 00:28:18,154
and how to ride a wave,
how to ride a barrel,
454
00:28:18,238 --> 00:28:21,658
we are on the same level.
455
00:28:21,741 --> 00:28:24,536
Scooby makes me
a more complete surfer,
456
00:28:24,619 --> 00:28:28,081
and I make him
a more complete surfer as well.
457
00:28:28,164 --> 00:28:29,082
We had the same goal,
458
00:28:29,165 --> 00:28:31,584
to be better than Kai
and Chumbo.
459
00:28:33,878 --> 00:28:37,006
They are the best performers
at Nazaré so far.
460
00:28:37,090 --> 00:28:43,388
♪ ♪
461
00:28:43,471 --> 00:28:45,223
- Lucas and I were
fierce competitors.
462
00:28:45,306 --> 00:28:47,517
Like, I wanted to destroy him
in the final.
463
00:28:47,600 --> 00:28:49,811
He wanted to destroy me
in the final.
464
00:28:49,894 --> 00:28:51,521
You know,
it was real competitiveness,
465
00:28:51,604 --> 00:28:54,441
but Lucas and I both came
to the conclusion,
466
00:28:54,524 --> 00:28:57,444
like, "Hey, if we're gonna be
competing against each other,
467
00:28:57,527 --> 00:29:00,113
"why not just team up
so we have the best shot
468
00:29:00,196 --> 00:29:01,948
at just winning
every single time?"
469
00:29:09,873 --> 00:29:12,834
[cheers and applause]
470
00:29:15,336 --> 00:29:16,671
- [laughs]
471
00:29:20,925 --> 00:29:22,302
- [laughs]
472
00:29:51,456 --> 00:29:53,833
- For me,
after five years in Nazaré,
473
00:29:53,917 --> 00:29:55,877
I lost motivation
to go with her
474
00:29:55,960 --> 00:29:58,880
in crazy, giant waves
with crazy people around
475
00:29:58,963 --> 00:30:00,548
and with wind
and with whatever,
476
00:30:00,632 --> 00:30:02,008
like, because we've done it
so much
477
00:30:02,091 --> 00:30:04,219
and she's reached
such a high level
478
00:30:04,302 --> 00:30:07,055
that I'm like, why?
479
00:30:08,640 --> 00:30:11,226
I don't like the competition
part of big wave surfing.
480
00:30:11,309 --> 00:30:12,727
Like, I support Justine
and I help her,
481
00:30:12,810 --> 00:30:16,147
but I don't want to be
part of this.
482
00:30:16,231 --> 00:30:18,191
- I knew
that I could count on him
483
00:30:18,274 --> 00:30:19,275
for be there,
484
00:30:19,359 --> 00:30:21,486
but I knew
that he didn't want it too.
485
00:30:23,279 --> 00:30:28,117
So I realized that I had
to find a partner.
486
00:30:28,201 --> 00:30:30,495
It was challenging for me...
[laughs]
487
00:30:30,578 --> 00:30:32,372
To find a good partner
488
00:30:32,455 --> 00:30:36,000
that I would be happy
to team up with.
489
00:30:36,084 --> 00:30:39,837
Pierre being French means
the communication is good.
490
00:30:40,338 --> 00:30:42,799
- And I have
a good relationship with him,
491
00:30:42,882 --> 00:30:44,133
so I was like, "Okay."
492
00:30:50,848 --> 00:30:52,058
[bell rings]
493
00:30:52,141 --> 00:30:54,143
- All right,
I'm struggling here.
494
00:30:54,227 --> 00:30:55,186
- There's a knife.
495
00:30:55,270 --> 00:30:56,437
Do you wanna--
do you see the knife?
496
00:30:56,521 --> 00:30:58,606
- The knife is
on the countertop, no?
497
00:30:58,690 --> 00:31:01,234
- I know that to free surf
and on the bigger swells,
498
00:31:01,317 --> 00:31:03,111
I can tow with Garrett.
499
00:31:03,194 --> 00:31:05,655
But coming into that contest,
to compete,
500
00:31:05,738 --> 00:31:07,282
I had to find someone else.
501
00:31:07,365 --> 00:31:10,743
- Cotty, do you think I should
sand down the fins, maybe?
502
00:31:10,827 --> 00:31:12,078
- So I picked Will.
503
00:31:12,161 --> 00:31:14,747
He's been around Nazaré
since, like, 2014,
504
00:31:14,831 --> 00:31:17,917
and he's really good
on the ski.
505
00:31:18,001 --> 00:31:20,503
- I've never done a tow contest
in my life, ever, so...
506
00:31:20,587 --> 00:31:21,588
- Oh, really?
- Yeah.
507
00:31:21,671 --> 00:31:24,632
This is my first tow contest.
508
00:31:24,716 --> 00:31:28,052
- Competitive surfing is
definitely not my strong point.
509
00:31:29,053 --> 00:31:31,931
You know, so I do get nerves.
510
00:31:32,015 --> 00:31:33,975
[laughing]
511
00:31:34,058 --> 00:31:35,476
- Relax.
- I'm relaxed!
512
00:31:35,560 --> 00:31:36,811
- Okay?
- I'm fine.
513
00:31:36,894 --> 00:31:40,607
I'm fine.
[both laugh]
514
00:31:40,690 --> 00:31:42,025
- Okay?
- Yeah. Yeah.
515
00:31:42,108 --> 00:31:44,319
- Okay.
- Listen to that.
516
00:31:46,029 --> 00:31:48,906
[soft dramatic music]
517
00:31:48,990 --> 00:31:52,160
♪ ♪
518
00:31:52,243 --> 00:31:53,453
- I feel like we run it
519
00:31:53,536 --> 00:31:55,496
and they'll just get barrels
and...
520
00:32:00,752 --> 00:32:02,045
- Well, let's just
green-light it.
521
00:32:03,755 --> 00:32:06,382
- Okay. Thank you.
522
00:32:06,466 --> 00:32:08,885
It's not about
the size of the wave.
523
00:32:08,968 --> 00:32:12,180
It's about doing turns in
the critical part of the wave,
524
00:32:12,263 --> 00:32:15,350
not just going straight
and barely surviving.
525
00:32:19,270 --> 00:32:21,731
- Hey, Lena.
- What's up? Good to see you.
526
00:32:21,814 --> 00:32:22,815
- Yeah.
- Hey, bruh.
527
00:32:22,899 --> 00:32:25,485
- The direction just, like,
got perfect right now.
528
00:32:25,568 --> 00:32:26,527
- Really?
- Yeah.
529
00:32:26,611 --> 00:32:29,572
- I didn't feel super prepared
for Nazaré,
530
00:32:29,656 --> 00:32:32,283
but at the same time,
I was like, you know,
531
00:32:32,367 --> 00:32:35,578
I've done what it's taken
in the past to do really well.
532
00:32:35,662 --> 00:32:38,122
How is it? 20 feet? 25 feet?
- Yeah, but, like--
533
00:32:38,206 --> 00:32:39,499
- And I'm with Lucas Chumbo,
534
00:32:39,582 --> 00:32:41,793
one of the best guys ever
out here.
535
00:32:41,876 --> 00:32:43,753
We're gonna kill it.
536
00:32:43,836 --> 00:32:45,588
- Enjoy ourselves.
537
00:32:45,672 --> 00:32:47,674
Put on a hell of a show.
538
00:32:47,757 --> 00:32:50,593
But make sure that you come
back to the harbor
539
00:32:50,677 --> 00:32:51,969
at the end of the day.
540
00:32:52,053 --> 00:32:54,889
- Each surfer has
the best two waves count
541
00:32:54,972 --> 00:32:56,391
in their tally.
542
00:32:56,474 --> 00:32:59,060
The best wave counts
double points.
543
00:32:59,143 --> 00:33:00,478
- Big hand for the surfers,
544
00:33:00,561 --> 00:33:02,689
and I can't wait to see
you guys all compete tomorrow.
545
00:33:02,772 --> 00:33:05,692
[cheers and applause]
546
00:33:16,077 --> 00:33:18,996
[dramatic music]
547
00:33:19,080 --> 00:33:26,087
♪ ♪
548
00:33:27,171 --> 00:33:29,257
- Although it is
often focused
549
00:33:29,340 --> 00:33:31,259
around catching, like,
the biggest waves,
550
00:33:31,342 --> 00:33:34,303
it's also about performing
on the global stage.
551
00:33:34,387 --> 00:33:36,764
Yeah!
552
00:33:36,848 --> 00:33:39,183
Fire's going.
553
00:33:39,267 --> 00:33:40,309
- How's it looking?
554
00:33:40,393 --> 00:33:42,437
- There's no fog at all.
555
00:33:42,520 --> 00:33:45,481
It's, like,
ultimate conditions.
556
00:33:47,024 --> 00:33:49,360
- I have good feelings
about today.
557
00:33:49,444 --> 00:33:51,112
Looks like we're gonna have
a good show today.
558
00:33:51,195 --> 00:33:55,742
♪ ♪
559
00:33:55,825 --> 00:33:57,034
- Should be
pretty interesting, man.
560
00:33:57,118 --> 00:33:58,453
It's gonna be
a different contest, you know?
561
00:33:58,536 --> 00:33:59,620
Like, people are not
gonna be looking
562
00:33:59,704 --> 00:34:01,581
for the biggest waves
of all biggest waves.
563
00:34:01,664 --> 00:34:02,915
- Let's go. Boom.
564
00:34:02,999 --> 00:34:04,917
- People are gonna be looking
for performance,
565
00:34:05,001 --> 00:34:06,669
doing barrels, airs.
566
00:34:07,837 --> 00:34:09,380
- Yeah, mate!
- Have a good day, yeah?
567
00:34:09,464 --> 00:34:10,506
- And you.
568
00:34:10,590 --> 00:34:12,800
This is the WSL
Nazaré Tow Challenge.
569
00:34:12,884 --> 00:34:14,135
- Good luck, Kai.
- Thank you.
570
00:34:14,218 --> 00:34:16,304
- The waves are
really, really beautiful,
571
00:34:16,387 --> 00:34:17,346
really clean.
572
00:34:17,430 --> 00:34:18,681
I think you're gonna see
573
00:34:18,765 --> 00:34:20,475
some high performance
big wave surfing,
574
00:34:20,558 --> 00:34:21,642
and it's gonna--
I think it's gonna be
575
00:34:21,726 --> 00:34:22,935
really exciting to watch.
576
00:34:25,813 --> 00:34:29,567
- Wintertime in Europe sees
the Atlantic roar into action.
577
00:34:29,650 --> 00:34:32,612
It's the Tudor Nazaré
Tow Surfing Challenge.
578
00:34:32,695 --> 00:34:36,365
And we are live from the Tudor
Nazaré Tow Surf Challenge...
579
00:34:40,661 --> 00:34:41,621
Ugh!
580
00:34:44,373 --> 00:34:45,625
[laughs]
581
00:34:45,708 --> 00:34:47,668
- Preparations about to get
underway here.
582
00:34:47,752 --> 00:34:50,838
[dramatic choral music]
583
00:34:50,922 --> 00:34:52,757
♪ ♪
584
00:34:52,840 --> 00:34:56,511
[indistinct chatter]
585
00:34:56,594 --> 00:34:57,678
- Who's in this heat?
586
00:34:57,762 --> 00:34:59,889
- I think Lucas first.
587
00:35:02,266 --> 00:35:04,560
- In big wave surfing,
during a contest,
588
00:35:04,644 --> 00:35:07,522
you will have a limit of time
in the water,
589
00:35:07,605 --> 00:35:11,317
and you will have to perform
during that time.
590
00:35:11,400 --> 00:35:15,071
- First wave of the event,
Lucas Chianca.
591
00:35:15,154 --> 00:35:18,282
Gets things out of the way
with the left-hander.
592
00:35:18,366 --> 00:35:20,993
♪ ♪
593
00:35:21,077 --> 00:35:22,203
There we go.
594
00:35:22,286 --> 00:35:24,914
As we see here, just butter up
with the chop up,
595
00:35:24,997 --> 00:35:26,999
and he's stalling here
from doom.
596
00:35:27,083 --> 00:35:30,127
See the hand drag.
Gets the highline barrel.
597
00:35:32,380 --> 00:35:33,714
- Chumbo just did a barrel.
598
00:35:33,798 --> 00:35:35,758
First day of the contest,
a barrel.
599
00:35:47,311 --> 00:35:51,232
- Me and Scooby, we were
the second heat of the day.
600
00:35:51,315 --> 00:35:52,733
You know, the tactic was
really, like,
601
00:35:52,817 --> 00:35:54,193
"We gotta get barrel.
We gotta get barrel.
602
00:35:54,277 --> 00:35:56,737
We gotta get barrel.
That's how we're gonna win."
603
00:35:56,821 --> 00:35:59,782
But pulling into a barrel
at Nazaré at that size,
604
00:35:59,866 --> 00:36:01,868
it's either massive success
605
00:36:01,951 --> 00:36:04,912
or you're risking a serious,
serious, serious injury.
606
00:36:06,122 --> 00:36:07,248
- Wow.
607
00:36:07,331 --> 00:36:08,875
- Stalling.
608
00:36:08,958 --> 00:36:12,253
And he'll pop, realizing
that wave's not gonna throw.
609
00:36:12,336 --> 00:36:13,588
- I got a couple waves,
610
00:36:13,671 --> 00:36:16,424
but my performance wasn't
on point that day.
611
00:36:16,507 --> 00:36:17,925
So I jumped on the Jet Ski
612
00:36:18,009 --> 00:36:19,802
and I pulled Scooby
into a wave.
613
00:36:19,886 --> 00:36:22,263
- Here goes Scooby.
Slingshots in.
614
00:36:22,346 --> 00:36:23,764
Look at the speed.
615
00:36:23,848 --> 00:36:25,808
- This pristine wave
came through,
616
00:36:25,892 --> 00:36:29,270
and he faded so deep.
617
00:36:29,353 --> 00:36:32,440
The lines he was taking,
I was like, "Oh, my God!"
618
00:36:34,483 --> 00:36:36,569
- What I did
in the first heat?
619
00:36:36,652 --> 00:36:39,280
Go to another level, you know?
620
00:36:39,363 --> 00:36:40,865
Push my limit.
621
00:36:40,948 --> 00:36:42,074
- I mean, I was, like,
really impressed.
622
00:36:42,158 --> 00:36:44,118
I was like, "Wow, this guy--
like, this guy means business.
623
00:36:44,201 --> 00:36:46,329
We're gonna win this shit."
624
00:36:46,412 --> 00:36:48,414
- In yellow, Nic von Rupp,
Pedro Scooby,
625
00:36:48,497 --> 00:36:50,750
second in the leaderboard.
626
00:36:50,833 --> 00:36:52,418
- That was good to see,
you know?
627
00:36:52,501 --> 00:36:54,795
They were, like,
with the knife on their teeth,
628
00:36:54,879 --> 00:36:59,800
like, trying to make hard time
for Chumbo and Kai on the day.
629
00:37:00,718 --> 00:37:02,011
- Let's pick up
live vision here.
630
00:37:02,094 --> 00:37:03,304
Michelle des Bouillons.
631
00:37:03,387 --> 00:37:05,139
This is a big wave
for Michelle.
632
00:37:05,222 --> 00:37:06,766
She outruns that one.
633
00:37:26,911 --> 00:37:28,788
- That wave
not really offering
634
00:37:28,871 --> 00:37:29,914
much of a runner section...
635
00:37:32,750 --> 00:37:34,543
- Right now, the first one.
636
00:37:35,586 --> 00:37:36,837
- I'm not competing.
637
00:37:36,921 --> 00:37:37,922
- No.
638
00:37:39,924 --> 00:37:43,844
- During the contest, I was
supporting Justine basically.
639
00:37:43,928 --> 00:37:46,389
She was the only one I really
wanted to see surfing.
640
00:37:46,472 --> 00:37:48,516
- There's Justine
and her first wave.
641
00:37:48,599 --> 00:37:50,434
She just carved out.
642
00:37:51,602 --> 00:37:54,480
- [speaking French]
643
00:38:00,236 --> 00:38:03,489
I had to find
a new motivation.
644
00:38:03,572 --> 00:38:05,700
I wanted to show
that big wave surfing,
645
00:38:05,783 --> 00:38:07,702
it's about surfing.
646
00:38:07,785 --> 00:38:10,705
[exciting music]
647
00:38:10,788 --> 00:38:16,585
♪ ♪
648
00:38:16,669 --> 00:38:18,546
[walkie-talkie crackles]
- Cotty, Will, come in.
649
00:38:20,589 --> 00:38:23,759
- The waves are real random.
They're all over the place.
650
00:38:23,843 --> 00:38:25,052
But there are some good ones
651
00:38:25,136 --> 00:38:28,055
and there's some really good
right barrels.
652
00:38:28,139 --> 00:38:30,349
So stay low and get barreled.
653
00:38:30,433 --> 00:38:32,560
[walkie-talkie crackles]
654
00:38:32,643 --> 00:38:35,396
- For me, performance is
critical lines and turns,
655
00:38:35,479 --> 00:38:38,024
but again, like,
it's hard to know
656
00:38:38,107 --> 00:38:39,692
what, really,
they're looking for.
657
00:38:39,775 --> 00:38:42,069
- Good luck, boys. Good luck.
Have fun.
658
00:38:42,153 --> 00:38:44,155
It's only surf, all right?
Have fun.
659
00:38:46,449 --> 00:38:48,034
- Andrew Cotton here.
660
00:38:48,117 --> 00:38:51,412
And he'll fade one
and go a right-hand option,
661
00:38:51,495 --> 00:38:52,872
dealing with some bumps.
662
00:38:52,955 --> 00:38:55,207
- Ooh. Oh.
- It just gets unseemly.
663
00:38:55,291 --> 00:38:58,085
Seeing a skid there.
664
00:38:58,169 --> 00:38:59,420
- Will got in
a couple crazy waves,
665
00:38:59,503 --> 00:39:02,048
and I blew it, man.
666
00:39:15,186 --> 00:39:17,813
- Here goes now, live action.
Kai Lenny.
667
00:39:17,897 --> 00:39:19,231
Signature move.
668
00:39:19,315 --> 00:39:22,443
- I can remember, like,
doing airs and getting
669
00:39:22,526 --> 00:39:24,945
two- to three-point scores.
670
00:39:25,029 --> 00:39:26,197
And I was, like,
pulling my hair out.
671
00:39:26,280 --> 00:39:29,075
I'm like, what do we gotta do
to get a better score?
672
00:39:29,158 --> 00:39:31,827
And I can remember going,
"Tow me into a deep one."
673
00:39:31,911 --> 00:39:32,912
- Here goes Kai Lenny.
674
00:39:32,995 --> 00:39:35,664
This wave,
you just see this thing
675
00:39:35,748 --> 00:39:37,666
just doubling up.
676
00:39:37,750 --> 00:39:42,046
- I ended up fading and doing
a front-side 360 and landing,
677
00:39:42,129 --> 00:39:44,965
and when I turned right,
the cliff was right there.
678
00:39:45,049 --> 00:39:48,010
[cheers and applause]
679
00:39:49,428 --> 00:39:51,972
- Oh, no, no, no, no. Kai.
680
00:39:54,809 --> 00:39:56,268
- Ended up getting
sucked over the falls
681
00:39:56,352 --> 00:39:57,686
and held down for so long.
682
00:39:59,355 --> 00:40:00,773
The whole time underwater,
I'm thinking,
683
00:40:00,856 --> 00:40:02,274
"I actually might die right now
684
00:40:02,358 --> 00:40:04,318
'cause I'm gonna hit
the cliff."
685
00:40:04,402 --> 00:40:06,987
I was waiting
to just hit a rock.
686
00:40:09,573 --> 00:40:10,825
- Oh, I hope they're fine.
687
00:40:10,908 --> 00:40:12,535
I don't think he's there.
688
00:40:15,204 --> 00:40:17,790
- Chumbo being the best partner
anyone could ask for,
689
00:40:17,873 --> 00:40:20,292
he came in so quick.
690
00:40:27,800 --> 00:40:31,011
- Oh, no, no, no, no, no, no,
no, no, no.
691
00:40:31,095 --> 00:40:32,263
- Oh!
692
00:40:33,931 --> 00:40:37,017
- I remember
just skimming off the sled
693
00:40:37,101 --> 00:40:40,896
before the Jet Ski goes around
over the falls in front of me,
694
00:40:40,980 --> 00:40:43,149
and I get sucked
over the falls behind it,
695
00:40:43,232 --> 00:40:44,650
and underwater,
I could hear the Jet Ski,
696
00:40:44,733 --> 00:40:46,110
like, plastic breaking,
697
00:40:46,193 --> 00:40:48,571
and I'm waiting to get hit
by the Jet Ski now.
698
00:41:07,631 --> 00:41:10,384
- By that point,
I was, like, pretty dizzy.
699
00:41:10,467 --> 00:41:12,761
It was like,
"What did we just go through?"
700
00:41:12,845 --> 00:41:15,723
And, you know, Pedro Scooby
and Nic von Rupp's team
701
00:41:15,806 --> 00:41:18,350
were really close.
702
00:41:18,434 --> 00:41:20,269
- Scooby just transformed
himself.
703
00:41:20,352 --> 00:41:21,937
You know, he took his juice.
[laughs]
704
00:41:22,021 --> 00:41:24,690
And he just
beasted up, like, wah.
705
00:41:24,773 --> 00:41:25,858
- And we go to live action.
706
00:41:25,941 --> 00:41:28,861
Looks like Scooby--
as he'll stall himself here.
707
00:41:28,944 --> 00:41:30,863
He's just kind of putting
himself in the slop.
708
00:41:30,946 --> 00:41:33,073
- Yes. Scooby, make it.
- Wow. Huge barrel.
709
00:41:33,157 --> 00:41:36,118
Oh, they're wheeling him
out of that.
710
00:41:36,202 --> 00:41:38,871
- Gets clipped--huge wipeout.
711
00:41:38,954 --> 00:41:40,498
We had, like,
ten seconds to go,
712
00:41:40,581 --> 00:41:42,208
and I was like, "Bro, bro,
bro, bro, bro,
713
00:41:42,291 --> 00:41:43,751
"get on the rope,
get on the rope.
714
00:41:43,834 --> 00:41:45,419
There's another one.
There's another one."
715
00:41:45,502 --> 00:41:48,172
- "Keep calm, bro.
You put me to the barrel.
716
00:41:48,255 --> 00:41:49,590
Drive me to the barrel."
717
00:41:49,673 --> 00:41:51,926
- Just over ten seconds
on the clock--
718
00:41:52,009 --> 00:41:54,470
any last-gasp efforts.
719
00:41:54,553 --> 00:41:56,764
- I can hear, like,
"Nine, eight, seven,"
720
00:41:56,847 --> 00:41:59,141
and I put him
on this pristine wave.
721
00:41:59,225 --> 00:42:01,185
[dramatic music]
722
00:42:01,268 --> 00:42:03,145
- The wave was perfect.
723
00:42:03,229 --> 00:42:05,356
♪ ♪
724
00:42:05,439 --> 00:42:07,942
I did the turn
and put it in the barrel.
725
00:42:08,025 --> 00:42:12,571
♪ ♪
726
00:42:12,655 --> 00:42:15,532
[crowd shouting]
727
00:42:15,616 --> 00:42:22,581
♪ ♪
728
00:42:25,292 --> 00:42:27,419
- People screaming
from the beach,
729
00:42:27,503 --> 00:42:29,171
and he was like,
"I got barreled!
730
00:42:29,255 --> 00:42:31,966
I got barreled!
I got barreled!"
731
00:42:32,049 --> 00:42:35,803
It's unhuman to get a huge
barrel like that at Nazaré.
732
00:42:35,886 --> 00:42:36,971
You know, like, it's something
733
00:42:37,054 --> 00:42:39,181
that had never
been done before,
734
00:42:39,265 --> 00:42:40,808
and he did it, you know?
735
00:42:40,891 --> 00:42:43,227
- The man of the moment,
Pedro Scooby.
736
00:42:43,310 --> 00:42:45,229
- Oh, it was a crazy heat.
737
00:42:45,312 --> 00:42:47,564
Was not me, though.
Was my driver.
738
00:42:47,648 --> 00:42:48,565
- [chuckles]
739
00:42:48,649 --> 00:42:49,942
- That's a dream team
right there.
740
00:42:50,025 --> 00:42:52,194
Congratulations.
- Dream team. Let's go.
741
00:42:52,278 --> 00:42:53,153
- Yee-hee!
742
00:42:53,237 --> 00:42:54,822
We put everything on the line.
743
00:42:54,905 --> 00:42:57,032
♪ ♪
744
00:42:57,116 --> 00:42:58,617
- I think after that wave,
745
00:42:58,701 --> 00:43:00,577
Lucas and Kai,
they got nervous.
746
00:43:00,661 --> 00:43:01,578
They're like, "Yeah, okay,
747
00:43:01,662 --> 00:43:03,956
maybe we're not
going to win this."
748
00:43:09,336 --> 00:43:12,840
- Pedro Scooby, Nic von Rupp,
second place.
749
00:43:12,923 --> 00:43:17,011
This score coming for Scooby
could well be crucial.
750
00:43:17,094 --> 00:43:18,637
[horn blares]
751
00:43:18,721 --> 00:43:22,182
- Yee-hee-hee-hee!
752
00:43:22,266 --> 00:43:25,227
- Pedro Scooby...
[speaking Portuguese]
753
00:43:25,311 --> 00:43:26,854
- Yee-hee-hee!
- [speaking Portuguese]
754
00:43:26,937 --> 00:43:28,814
- Yee-hee-hee-hee!
755
00:43:28,897 --> 00:43:29,982
Yeah!
756
00:43:30,065 --> 00:43:32,443
- This is my pride.
This is my brother, man.
757
00:43:32,526 --> 00:43:33,986
- [laughs]
758
00:43:34,069 --> 00:43:38,073
[horns honking]
759
00:43:38,157 --> 00:43:42,036
- Best Team Award goes to
Chianca and Lenny once again.
760
00:43:42,119 --> 00:43:45,039
[cheers and applause]
761
00:43:45,122 --> 00:43:47,207
- Lucas and Kai still won,
and we got second.
762
00:43:47,291 --> 00:43:49,251
But we gave them a good battle,
and that was the goal.
763
00:43:49,335 --> 00:43:51,337
[all cheering, whistling]
764
00:43:51,420 --> 00:43:54,048
- Women's award
for the best performer today,
765
00:43:54,131 --> 00:43:55,883
Justine Dupont with over ten...
766
00:43:55,966 --> 00:43:59,720
[cheers and applause]
[indistinct]
767
00:44:07,144 --> 00:44:08,896
[engine turning over]
768
00:44:08,979 --> 00:44:11,148
- I was like, "Okay,
there's a lot of people here.
769
00:44:11,231 --> 00:44:13,692
I'm just going to catch, like,
amazing waves for them."
770
00:44:13,776 --> 00:44:18,072
[horn blaring]
771
00:44:18,155 --> 00:44:21,867
- Right after the contest,
Tony was surfing,
772
00:44:21,950 --> 00:44:24,661
and I remember watching him
and being,
773
00:44:24,745 --> 00:44:27,247
"Wow, this guy is connected
with the wave.
774
00:44:27,331 --> 00:44:30,918
He's got such a good flow,
such a good timing with them."
775
00:44:31,001 --> 00:44:33,712
♪ ♪
776
00:44:33,796 --> 00:44:35,923
- And I was just trying,
like, 360s
777
00:44:36,006 --> 00:44:38,425
and doing, like, huge airs,
778
00:44:38,509 --> 00:44:40,928
like, basically
just having fun.
779
00:44:41,011 --> 00:44:42,137
But at the same time,
780
00:44:42,221 --> 00:44:44,098
I was doing
kind of, like, a show
781
00:44:44,181 --> 00:44:46,058
for the crowd
that was outside.
782
00:44:46,141 --> 00:44:53,023
♪ ♪
783
00:44:53,107 --> 00:44:55,901
[indistinct chatter]
784
00:44:55,984 --> 00:44:58,570
- Congratulations.
785
00:44:58,654 --> 00:45:00,906
- Awesome stuff.
Best team, once again...
786
00:45:00,989 --> 00:45:02,908
- Another round of applause
for our Best Team!
787
00:45:02,991 --> 00:45:05,953
[cheers and applause]
788
00:45:10,999 --> 00:45:13,377
- While the contest
was happening,
789
00:45:13,460 --> 00:45:15,963
I was waiting
for the results to come in.
790
00:45:16,046 --> 00:45:19,466
That made me want to induce.
791
00:45:19,550 --> 00:45:22,177
You know, we wanted
the contest to happen
792
00:45:22,261 --> 00:45:25,973
before the baby happened
so that there'd be no...
793
00:45:26,056 --> 00:45:28,976
pressure, you know.
794
00:45:29,059 --> 00:45:31,645
I should've been
at the contest,
795
00:45:31,728 --> 00:45:34,106
but I couldn't even walk
still at this point...
796
00:45:34,189 --> 00:45:36,775
[scoffs]
'Cause my back was so bad.
797
00:45:36,859 --> 00:45:38,944
Well, my labs are really shit,
798
00:45:39,027 --> 00:45:41,113
so I have to have this baby,
like, today.
799
00:45:41,196 --> 00:45:43,949
And I want my mom.
- I know, sweetheart.
800
00:45:44,032 --> 00:45:45,951
- And I don't want
to tell her that.
801
00:45:46,034 --> 00:45:47,161
- I know.
802
00:45:47,244 --> 00:45:48,454
- All of a sudden, they said,
803
00:45:48,537 --> 00:45:50,456
"You have to have
the baby out by this time,
804
00:45:50,539 --> 00:45:52,958
or it will die."
805
00:45:53,041 --> 00:45:55,794
She just needed support.
806
00:45:55,878 --> 00:45:58,464
She needed me
to be there for her.
807
00:46:04,928 --> 00:46:08,015
- The most beautiful thing
about Garrett
808
00:46:08,098 --> 00:46:12,436
is that he's always, always
willing to work on himself.
809
00:46:14,104 --> 00:46:16,773
And I found him
to be much more present
810
00:46:16,857 --> 00:46:18,817
after the contest was done.
811
00:46:18,901 --> 00:46:20,694
- There's one.
- He's ready.
812
00:46:20,777 --> 00:46:22,029
- All right.
813
00:46:22,112 --> 00:46:25,824
- We just had to all help
each other and rally together.
814
00:46:39,296 --> 00:46:41,840
- Hello.
How's everything going?
815
00:46:41,924 --> 00:46:43,550
- It's gonna happen.
816
00:46:43,634 --> 00:46:45,260
- Garrett has this deep drive
817
00:46:45,344 --> 00:46:50,682
to just be going,
to not really stop and be.
818
00:46:50,766 --> 00:46:54,061
And he definitely gets
a lot of that rubbed off of us,
819
00:46:54,144 --> 00:46:55,687
but he heals us too
820
00:46:55,771 --> 00:46:59,483
in his, like,
"charge it, go for it" way.
821
00:47:01,068 --> 00:47:02,402
- The big one? No.
822
00:47:03,779 --> 00:47:05,155
- No way.
823
00:47:14,581 --> 00:47:16,875
- Yeah, that's way better.
824
00:47:16,959 --> 00:47:19,920
- There's this reciprocal
support going on
825
00:47:20,003 --> 00:47:21,713
where we offer things
to each other
826
00:47:21,797 --> 00:47:24,716
that gets each of us out of
our comfort zone a little bit,
827
00:47:24,800 --> 00:47:27,886
and we know it's good for us.
828
00:47:27,970 --> 00:47:31,306
- Huh?
[chuckles]
829
00:47:31,390 --> 00:47:33,767
[light music]
830
00:47:33,850 --> 00:47:35,936
- So I wanted to home birth,
831
00:47:36,019 --> 00:47:39,439
which means I have everybody
in my living room
832
00:47:39,523 --> 00:47:41,441
through all of this.
833
00:47:41,525 --> 00:47:44,861
And around 2:00
in the morning,
834
00:47:44,945 --> 00:47:46,405
the contractions woke me up.
835
00:47:46,488 --> 00:47:49,449
[breathing heavily]
836
00:47:49,533 --> 00:47:54,079
♪ ♪
837
00:47:54,162 --> 00:47:56,707
[groans]
838
00:47:56,790 --> 00:47:58,917
Ahh!
839
00:47:59,001 --> 00:48:02,129
Oh! Oh! Oh!
840
00:48:02,212 --> 00:48:04,172
[screams]
841
00:48:04,256 --> 00:48:06,133
- Oh, there she is.
She's here.
842
00:48:06,216 --> 00:48:07,467
- [crying]
843
00:48:07,551 --> 00:48:09,428
- Ah.
844
00:48:09,511 --> 00:48:12,431
- [laughing]
845
00:48:12,514 --> 00:48:16,768
♪ ♪
846
00:48:16,852 --> 00:48:19,146
[indistinct chatter]
847
00:48:19,229 --> 00:48:20,480
- Wait.
848
00:48:20,564 --> 00:48:21,898
Oh. Okay.
849
00:48:21,982 --> 00:48:24,234
- She's perfect.
She's perfect.
850
00:48:24,318 --> 00:48:27,988
[baby crying]
- We did. We all did.
851
00:48:28,071 --> 00:48:29,865
- Hey, your sister.
852
00:48:29,948 --> 00:48:31,617
Your sister's here.
853
00:48:31,700 --> 00:48:34,328
Your baby sister.
[baby cries]
854
00:48:34,411 --> 00:48:41,418
♪ ♪
855
00:48:54,973 --> 00:48:58,560
[baby fussing]
856
00:48:58,644 --> 00:49:00,354
[sighs]
857
00:49:00,437 --> 00:49:02,773
- What's up, little one?
858
00:49:02,856 --> 00:49:05,942
How are you?
859
00:49:06,026 --> 00:49:08,195
Welcome to our life.
860
00:49:24,294 --> 00:49:27,005
- Mm-hmm.
861
00:49:27,089 --> 00:49:29,591
Endured.
862
00:50:14,720 --> 00:50:17,639
[sweeping music]
863
00:50:17,723 --> 00:50:24,730
♪ ♪
864
00:50:42,706 --> 00:50:48,336
♪ ♪
865
00:51:08,982 --> 00:51:15,947
♪ ♪
866
00:52:01,117 --> 00:52:03,161
[bright tone]
61822
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