Would you like to inspect the original subtitles? These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated:
1
00:00:02,043 --> 00:00:03,586
[TV static drones]
2
00:00:03,586 --> 00:00:06,631
[bright tone]
3
00:00:06,631 --> 00:00:09,968
[gentle music]
4
00:00:09,968 --> 00:00:17,308
♪ ♪
5
00:00:18,143 --> 00:00:21,521
There is a finite amount
of big waves in the world.
6
00:00:23,481 --> 00:00:26,443
There's only,
like, four or five big waves
7
00:00:26,443 --> 00:00:29,446
that are truly
in a league of their own.
8
00:00:29,446 --> 00:00:33,074
And the wave
that changed it all was Jaws.
9
00:00:34,951 --> 00:00:37,454
{\an8}It's the wave that changed
what was possible
10
00:00:37,454 --> 00:00:41,040
{\an8}and what the human body
could endure and even ride.
11
00:00:41,040 --> 00:00:44,544
{\an8}♪ ♪
12
00:00:44,544 --> 00:00:49,048
Jaws is probably
the most perfect big wave.
13
00:00:49,048 --> 00:00:51,634
It's very powerful
when it first hits you
14
00:00:51,634 --> 00:00:52,802
and very violent.
15
00:00:54,596 --> 00:00:55,930
And it will take you
16
00:00:55,930 --> 00:00:57,515
for a long period of time underwater.
17
00:00:57,515 --> 00:01:04,564
♪ ♪
18
00:01:21,748 --> 00:01:25,919
[dramatic music]
19
00:01:25,919 --> 00:01:28,129
{\an8}- When Justine came
for the first time,
20
00:01:28,129 --> 00:01:30,590
{\an8}it was the gnarliest day
to paddle ever.
21
00:01:30,590 --> 00:01:33,218
{\an8}It was for the Jaws contest
in 2018.
22
00:01:33,218 --> 00:01:35,762
{\an8}- Welcome back
to the Jaws Challenge
23
00:01:35,762 --> 00:01:37,180
{\an8}at Pe'ahi and here...
24
00:01:37,180 --> 00:01:39,933
{\an8}[speaking French]
25
00:01:44,270 --> 00:01:47,148
{\an8}Justine wanted to catch
the best wave of her life.
26
00:01:47,148 --> 00:01:51,277
{\an8}I think first wave,
she paddled on the big one.
27
00:01:51,277 --> 00:01:53,488
She fell.
28
00:01:53,488 --> 00:01:55,740
She broke the board.
29
00:01:58,076 --> 00:02:01,496
Normally, if you fell
like that, like, you're fucked.
30
00:02:01,496 --> 00:02:03,665
But she's feeling
really confident.
31
00:02:03,665 --> 00:02:05,375
She's like, "Okay, can you
get me another board?"
32
00:02:05,375 --> 00:02:09,128
So I give her another board,
and she goes back out.
33
00:02:09,128 --> 00:02:11,631
Justine Dupont
back on the horse.
34
00:02:11,631 --> 00:02:14,259
This time's gonna go
successful on that drop.
35
00:02:14,259 --> 00:02:16,386
Opened up
with a horrible wipeout,
36
00:02:16,386 --> 00:02:18,638
got back out there,
and now she's...
37
00:02:18,638 --> 00:02:19,973
She surfed that wave
38
00:02:19,973 --> 00:02:22,767
that was a world paddler
record contender.
39
00:02:22,767 --> 00:02:24,602
Like, she's for sure
in the final, you know?
40
00:02:24,602 --> 00:02:26,229
Like, she made it to the final
with that one.
41
00:02:26,229 --> 00:02:27,564
And I'm like,
"Okay, sit with me.
42
00:02:27,564 --> 00:02:30,733
in the channel, relax,
and wait for the final."
43
00:02:30,733 --> 00:02:33,027
And she's like, "Shut up."
44
00:02:33,027 --> 00:02:35,238
[chuckles]
I'm like, "What? Okay.
45
00:02:35,238 --> 00:02:36,990
Do your thing."
46
00:02:36,990 --> 00:02:39,576
I just wanted
to catch the wave
47
00:02:39,576 --> 00:02:41,661
that I was dreaming about.
48
00:02:41,661 --> 00:02:44,664
And the swell was getting
bigger and bigger.
49
00:02:46,249 --> 00:02:49,627
There's a new set coming.
She's paddling back out.
50
00:02:51,504 --> 00:02:53,047
- Got to paddle.
- Oh!
51
00:02:53,047 --> 00:02:55,258
- And we have surfer down.
- Wow.
52
00:02:55,258 --> 00:02:57,427
It may have been
Justine Dupont.
53
00:02:57,427 --> 00:02:59,220
Then I turn my head,
and I look.
54
00:02:59,220 --> 00:03:00,471
I'm like, "Fuck."
55
00:03:00,471 --> 00:03:03,099
I see three or four Jet Ski
rushing to Justine's wave.
56
00:03:03,099 --> 00:03:04,434
I see one Jet Ski flip.
57
00:03:04,434 --> 00:03:05,810
I see one guy jumping
from the ski.
58
00:03:05,810 --> 00:03:07,270
And I know, like,
if the lifeguard
59
00:03:07,270 --> 00:03:10,023
is jumping from the ski,
it's bad.
60
00:03:10,023 --> 00:03:11,941
I see Justine on the sled,
61
00:03:11,941 --> 00:03:15,361
and they're rushing her
to the medicine boat.
62
00:03:17,822 --> 00:03:19,824
{\an8}- [speaking French]
- [whimpers]
63
00:03:49,103 --> 00:03:56,027
♪ ♪
64
00:03:58,738 --> 00:04:02,116
Up, one, two, three.
65
00:04:02,116 --> 00:04:05,078
[dramatic piano music]
66
00:04:05,078 --> 00:04:12,168
{\an8}♪ ♪
67
00:04:20,927 --> 00:04:22,345
{\an8}- Lift.
- [grunts]
68
00:04:22,345 --> 00:04:26,349
{\an8}♪ ♪
69
00:04:26,349 --> 00:04:28,559
{\an8}[indistinct chatter]
70
00:04:28,559 --> 00:04:35,566
{\an8}♪ ♪
71
00:04:43,783 --> 00:04:46,703
{\an8}[person speaking French]
72
00:04:46,703 --> 00:04:53,835
{\an8}♪ ♪
73
00:05:14,480 --> 00:05:17,066
{\an8}Man,
it's a freaking cold day.
74
00:05:17,066 --> 00:05:21,863
{\an8}Like, the wind is, like,
super cold and super strong.
75
00:05:21,863 --> 00:05:24,032
Like, some waves looking good.
76
00:05:24,032 --> 00:05:25,742
But we know that, like,
77
00:05:25,742 --> 00:05:27,452
it will be,
like, almost impossible
78
00:05:27,452 --> 00:05:32,373
to ride with that wind
and so much current.
79
00:05:32,373 --> 00:05:34,375
And the waves
are not that good,
80
00:05:34,375 --> 00:05:35,960
so it's better wait.
81
00:05:35,960 --> 00:05:39,589
{\an8}- No, some waves is good.
- You see how it is? Like...
82
00:05:39,589 --> 00:05:41,758
{\an8}But that wind
is really strong.
83
00:05:41,758 --> 00:05:45,094
- [person chuckles]
- It means it's not that good.
84
00:05:45,094 --> 00:05:48,222
You can see,
but you can't ride.
85
00:05:48,222 --> 00:05:50,058
Okay, I'm going
back to my car.
86
00:05:50,058 --> 00:05:51,768
It's frickin' cold.
[person laughs]
87
00:05:51,768 --> 00:05:54,812
[dramatic choral music]
88
00:05:54,812 --> 00:06:01,819
♪ ♪
89
00:06:23,049 --> 00:06:24,926
We are like,
"Okay, so maybe we spend
90
00:06:24,926 --> 00:06:26,677
"the whole winter in Nazaré,
and we think
91
00:06:26,677 --> 00:06:28,846
about something else, you know,
or just relax."
92
00:06:28,846 --> 00:06:32,141
You know, we've been doing it
for five winters in a row
93
00:06:32,141 --> 00:06:33,476
or something like that.
94
00:06:51,035 --> 00:06:53,621
The storms
are lining up in the Pacific,
95
00:06:53,621 --> 00:06:55,957
that powerful swell drawing
96
00:06:55,957 --> 00:06:58,209
world-class surfers
to Mavericks.
97
00:06:58,209 --> 00:06:59,502
Here we are like,
98
00:06:59,502 --> 00:07:01,838
"Come on, the Pacific
is turning on.
99
00:07:01,838 --> 00:07:04,298
"The Atlantic is turning off.
100
00:07:04,298 --> 00:07:05,842
Okay, let's go."
101
00:07:05,842 --> 00:07:08,469
[speaking French]
102
00:07:08,469 --> 00:07:09,679
Hello.
103
00:07:11,764 --> 00:07:13,224
Come on. Let's go.
104
00:07:13,224 --> 00:07:16,352
♪ ♪
105
00:07:22,275 --> 00:07:24,110
- [chuckles]
- Yes!
106
00:07:28,739 --> 00:07:30,825
{\an8}[chuckles]
107
00:07:30,825 --> 00:07:33,161
♪ ♪
108
00:07:33,161 --> 00:07:36,205
[airplane engine whirs]
109
00:08:21,250 --> 00:08:25,588
I had never really spent time
in California
110
00:08:25,588 --> 00:08:27,673
and it was great.
111
00:08:40,686 --> 00:08:42,813
- Mexican food.
- Mexican. [chuckles]
112
00:08:47,568 --> 00:08:48,986
[chuckles]
113
00:09:11,300 --> 00:09:13,261
{\an8}[chuckles]
114
00:09:47,128 --> 00:09:49,171
[giggles]
115
00:09:49,171 --> 00:09:51,257
What I really love
about her
116
00:09:51,257 --> 00:09:53,301
is she could stop
surfing today
117
00:09:53,301 --> 00:09:55,011
and be proud of her career,
118
00:09:55,011 --> 00:09:57,388
but she still, like, have
new challenge
119
00:09:57,388 --> 00:09:58,681
which are totally different.
120
00:09:58,681 --> 00:10:00,599
She always have
new way to think,
121
00:10:00,599 --> 00:10:03,185
and we have fun
doing it together.
122
00:10:03,185 --> 00:10:05,062
[chuckles]
123
00:10:05,062 --> 00:10:06,981
[snapping fingers]
124
00:10:06,981 --> 00:10:10,026
[gentle music]
125
00:10:10,026 --> 00:10:17,074
♪ ♪
126
00:11:03,329 --> 00:11:10,378
♪ ♪
127
00:11:24,350 --> 00:11:27,269
I understand that being
French and European
128
00:11:27,269 --> 00:11:29,105
is gonna be tough for me.
129
00:11:29,105 --> 00:11:31,107
I will need to do way better
130
00:11:31,107 --> 00:11:33,526
to be recognized
by the community.
131
00:11:33,526 --> 00:11:38,906
♪ ♪
132
00:11:38,906 --> 00:11:41,700
- Big one. Steve.
- Oh, Justine.
133
00:11:41,700 --> 00:11:47,248
♪ ♪
134
00:11:47,248 --> 00:11:49,125
Nice.
135
00:11:49,125 --> 00:11:50,918
{\an8}- Round two?
- Quoi ?
136
00:12:29,915 --> 00:12:32,251
She surfed
for 12 days in a row,
137
00:12:32,251 --> 00:12:36,130
and it was 6 hours
of surfing every day.
138
00:12:36,130 --> 00:12:38,549
Yes! Whoo.
139
00:12:38,549 --> 00:12:39,884
Yeah, Justine!
140
00:12:39,884 --> 00:12:41,927
[chuckles]
141
00:12:41,927 --> 00:12:44,889
[scattered cheering]
142
00:12:44,889 --> 00:12:48,225
♪ ♪
143
00:12:48,225 --> 00:12:49,351
She surfs really good
144
00:12:49,351 --> 00:12:51,061
in front
of all the American guys
145
00:12:51,061 --> 00:12:52,938
that haven't really seen
her surfing.
146
00:12:52,938 --> 00:12:54,315
Thank you.
147
00:12:54,315 --> 00:12:56,942
And everybody's like,
"She's amazing."
148
00:12:56,942 --> 00:12:57,943
{\an8}[chuckles]
149
00:12:57,943 --> 00:12:59,820
{\an8}And you got some good waves
on it.
150
00:12:59,820 --> 00:13:01,989
{\an8}You're stoked.
151
00:13:12,583 --> 00:13:19,548
♪ ♪
152
00:13:19,548 --> 00:13:21,342
- Whoo!
- Oh, my God.
153
00:13:21,342 --> 00:13:24,762
♪ ♪
154
00:13:33,354 --> 00:13:36,732
That much surfing...
155
00:13:36,732 --> 00:13:38,901
it's almost too much.
156
00:13:38,901 --> 00:13:45,991
♪ ♪
157
00:14:10,975 --> 00:14:13,894
[yawning]
158
00:14:13,894 --> 00:14:20,901
♪ ♪
159
00:14:22,194 --> 00:14:24,905
Garrett McNamara
is up early, always.
160
00:14:24,905 --> 00:14:26,323
He's oftentimes
161
00:14:26,323 --> 00:14:29,868
looking to rally a wingman
at 5:00 a.m.
162
00:14:29,868 --> 00:14:33,247
I have been, you know,
victim to that a lot of times
163
00:14:33,247 --> 00:14:34,873
of getting the knocks
on the door
164
00:14:34,873 --> 00:14:37,042
or just coming in.
165
00:14:37,042 --> 00:14:39,962
[speaking indistinctly]
[dog barks]
166
00:14:39,962 --> 00:14:41,088
That is Garrett--
167
00:14:41,088 --> 00:14:43,465
waking people up
at 5:00 in the morning,
168
00:14:43,465 --> 00:14:44,633
not knocking.
169
00:14:44,633 --> 00:14:46,176
Doesn't matter
what time it is.
170
00:14:46,176 --> 00:14:47,761
Doesn't matter who it is.
171
00:14:47,761 --> 00:14:49,972
[whispering] Conrad.
172
00:14:49,972 --> 00:14:53,309
Well, it's smaller,
but it's perfection.
173
00:14:53,309 --> 00:14:55,811
Are you too tired?
You just want to sleep or--
174
00:14:55,811 --> 00:14:56,979
- You stayed--
- I don't know.
175
00:14:56,979 --> 00:14:58,606
You stayed up all night?
176
00:14:58,606 --> 00:15:00,107
Not all night.
177
00:15:02,985 --> 00:15:05,613
{\an8}[grunts]
178
00:15:05,613 --> 00:15:08,032
{\an8}- [chuckles]
- [groans]
179
00:15:09,825 --> 00:15:11,118
[yawns]
180
00:15:11,118 --> 00:15:12,786
I got this on there,
so just...
181
00:15:12,786 --> 00:15:15,623
When the waves are happening,
we got to be on it early.
182
00:15:15,623 --> 00:15:17,875
And I let everybody know
the night before
183
00:15:17,875 --> 00:15:19,376
that I'm coming
to get 'em, but...
184
00:15:19,376 --> 00:15:21,545
I just love stoking people out.
185
00:15:21,545 --> 00:15:23,839
I love seeing people smiling,
having fun,
186
00:15:23,839 --> 00:15:25,591
accomplishing their goals,
their dreams,
187
00:15:25,591 --> 00:15:26,884
doing what they love.
188
00:15:26,884 --> 00:15:28,218
Great, great.
189
00:15:28,218 --> 00:15:31,555
Garrett can definitely
convince people to do things
190
00:15:31,555 --> 00:15:33,682
that maybe they don't feel
comfortable doing
191
00:15:33,682 --> 00:15:36,060
and sometimes
shouldn't even be doing.
192
00:15:36,060 --> 00:15:37,936
- One, two, three, go.
- Get it out there.
193
00:15:37,936 --> 00:15:40,147
There's something
about the way
194
00:15:40,147 --> 00:15:42,358
he will believe in you.
195
00:15:42,358 --> 00:15:43,567
Ah, come on, come on.
196
00:15:43,567 --> 00:15:45,152
- Come on. Come on.
- Ah!
197
00:15:45,152 --> 00:15:47,821
He pushes people, and you
don't think you can do it.
198
00:15:47,821 --> 00:15:49,323
His faith in you--
199
00:15:49,323 --> 00:15:50,991
and because he has so much
experience in the water,
200
00:15:50,991 --> 00:15:52,993
you believe him,
201
00:15:52,993 --> 00:15:55,829
and you say, "Oh, wow.
Yeah, I can do this."
202
00:15:55,829 --> 00:15:58,749
So, yeah, he pushes people
to be their best.
203
00:15:58,749 --> 00:16:01,835
It's in his trust and belief
in what they can do
204
00:16:01,835 --> 00:16:03,545
that allows people to do that.
205
00:16:03,545 --> 00:16:05,339
It's amazing.
206
00:16:05,339 --> 00:16:10,260
♪ ♪
207
00:16:32,449 --> 00:16:33,659
[chuckles]
208
00:16:33,659 --> 00:16:35,244
We were exhausted.
209
00:16:35,244 --> 00:16:38,914
Like, every day we went
in the water at dark.
210
00:16:38,914 --> 00:16:40,708
I surf all day.
211
00:16:43,127 --> 00:16:44,253
We were tired.
212
00:16:44,253 --> 00:16:46,922
Like, we were waking up
every morning at 4:30,
213
00:16:46,922 --> 00:16:48,882
like, for 15 days in a row.
214
00:17:04,815 --> 00:17:06,108
The one thing about surfing
215
00:17:06,108 --> 00:17:10,404
is you need to really push
yourself to perform.
216
00:17:10,404 --> 00:17:12,072
If you want to succeed,
217
00:17:12,072 --> 00:17:14,575
you need
to really push harder.
218
00:17:14,575 --> 00:17:16,452
But sometime
it's a really fine line
219
00:17:16,452 --> 00:17:18,537
between pushing too much
and get injured.
220
00:17:21,331 --> 00:17:23,459
Two years ago in Jaws,
I was on a mission.
221
00:17:23,459 --> 00:17:26,920
I wanted this wave,
and Fred wanted to stop me
222
00:17:26,920 --> 00:17:29,131
just before that happened,
the injury,
223
00:17:29,131 --> 00:17:32,217
and I didn't listen to him.
224
00:17:33,886 --> 00:17:37,181
I knew Fred,
at his back of his head, like,
225
00:17:37,181 --> 00:17:39,308
"Okay, maybe
she could have reached
226
00:17:39,308 --> 00:17:40,684
"a really good level,
227
00:17:40,684 --> 00:17:44,480
"but because of this injury,
maybe she reached the top,
228
00:17:44,480 --> 00:17:46,774
and she don't got
to perform more."
229
00:17:46,774 --> 00:17:48,275
For me, it was painful
230
00:17:48,275 --> 00:17:51,278
to feel that
he wasn't confident in me
231
00:17:51,278 --> 00:17:52,654
and he was give up--
232
00:17:52,654 --> 00:17:54,948
he was ready to, like, give up.
233
00:17:56,533 --> 00:17:58,619
She can do amazing things,
234
00:17:58,619 --> 00:18:03,123
but she's also, like, not able
to see where the limit is.
235
00:18:03,123 --> 00:18:05,292
And I really think
she need to have someone
236
00:18:05,292 --> 00:18:07,711
to stop her,
but it's painful for me
237
00:18:07,711 --> 00:18:10,714
to be the guy that be like,
"Hey, Justine, stop."
238
00:18:10,714 --> 00:18:13,008
When she got the accident,
239
00:18:13,008 --> 00:18:15,344
I was thinking
about the opportunities
240
00:18:15,344 --> 00:18:18,096
she was missing,
and I was scared for her.
241
00:18:39,284 --> 00:18:40,994
[sighs]
242
00:19:01,014 --> 00:19:03,892
{\an8}[sighs]
243
00:19:03,892 --> 00:19:10,899
♪ ♪
244
00:19:17,656 --> 00:19:20,659
[birds chirping]
245
00:19:21,827 --> 00:19:28,834
♪ ♪
246
00:19:31,211 --> 00:19:34,214
[knife thudding]
247
00:19:42,347 --> 00:19:43,724
Sick.
248
00:19:43,724 --> 00:19:46,685
CJ didn't really surf
for a long period of time.
249
00:19:46,685 --> 00:19:48,937
But he's
such a freak of nature.
250
00:19:48,937 --> 00:19:51,773
Like, he's good at everything
and anything he does.
251
00:19:51,773 --> 00:19:53,775
[knife thudding]
252
00:19:53,775 --> 00:19:55,736
So he's always kind of ready,
253
00:19:55,736 --> 00:19:58,238
but he always goes internal,
254
00:19:58,238 --> 00:20:01,116
and he's thinking
way more than he's doing.
255
00:20:01,116 --> 00:20:03,911
So it's really challenging
being stuck up here
256
00:20:03,911 --> 00:20:06,121
and not here, there, everywhere.
257
00:20:06,121 --> 00:20:08,248
But he's working on his path,
his life path.
258
00:20:08,248 --> 00:20:11,126
[both humming]
259
00:20:11,126 --> 00:20:12,127
I was still teaching.
260
00:20:12,127 --> 00:20:13,879
You know,
I was teaching this class
261
00:20:13,879 --> 00:20:16,131
of, you know,
little six-year-olds,
262
00:20:16,131 --> 00:20:18,300
and, man, that's a journey.
263
00:20:18,300 --> 00:20:22,137
all:
♪ Aloha kakahiaka ♪
264
00:20:22,137 --> 00:20:24,473
You know, just the kids
day after day
265
00:20:24,473 --> 00:20:26,642
is solid, super rewarding.
266
00:20:26,642 --> 00:20:28,143
Ha! Whoo!
267
00:20:28,143 --> 00:20:30,646
And it's a special kind
of attention, energy
268
00:20:30,646 --> 00:20:32,773
that's needed to be
with those kids.
269
00:20:32,773 --> 00:20:34,733
Raise your hand if you...
270
00:20:34,733 --> 00:20:37,694
And it seemed
like a bit much for me.
271
00:20:37,694 --> 00:20:40,447
So I've stepped back
from teaching that class
272
00:20:40,447 --> 00:20:42,449
for the second half
of the year
273
00:20:42,449 --> 00:20:45,869
so that I can focus
more on other things
274
00:20:45,869 --> 00:20:49,081
that lighten me up
a little bit more.
275
00:20:49,081 --> 00:20:52,834
He expressed interest
in wanting to train.
276
00:20:52,834 --> 00:20:56,713
♪ ♪
277
00:20:56,713 --> 00:20:59,549
Because I've, you know, laid
myself off from teaching,
278
00:20:59,549 --> 00:21:02,552
I'm focusing on the mission,
you know?
279
00:21:02,552 --> 00:21:04,888
Focusing on catching
the giant wave
280
00:21:04,888 --> 00:21:07,349
and surfing a lot,
training with Garrett.
281
00:21:07,349 --> 00:21:12,688
♪ ♪
282
00:21:12,688 --> 00:21:15,482
I've been really happy.
283
00:21:15,482 --> 00:21:18,652
Once CJ stopped teaching,
284
00:21:18,652 --> 00:21:20,487
there was, like,
a spark ignited,
285
00:21:20,487 --> 00:21:22,823
and he was ready to focus
on his body
286
00:21:22,823 --> 00:21:26,493
and being ready
for when his chance came
287
00:21:26,493 --> 00:21:28,704
to surf again.
288
00:21:28,704 --> 00:21:30,706
So now I'm getting
back on it, you know?
289
00:21:30,706 --> 00:21:31,873
- So we can get in there.
- Amazing.
290
00:21:31,873 --> 00:21:33,125
Yeah.
291
00:21:33,125 --> 00:21:35,377
I've been working with
a couple of personal trainers
292
00:21:35,377 --> 00:21:37,879
and doing a lot of
breath work, breath training.
293
00:21:37,879 --> 00:21:39,381
Once you feel
the need to breathe,
294
00:21:39,381 --> 00:21:41,591
breathe in slowly...
295
00:21:41,591 --> 00:21:44,177
Just really focusing
on surfing, being ready,
296
00:21:44,177 --> 00:21:46,096
'cause you never know
what's gonna happen
297
00:21:46,096 --> 00:21:47,597
living with Garrett.
298
00:21:47,597 --> 00:21:50,600
[dramatic music]
299
00:21:50,600 --> 00:21:53,687
♪ ♪
300
00:21:57,190 --> 00:21:58,525
These days,
it's not always clear
301
00:21:58,525 --> 00:22:00,277
what Garrett's up to
or his intention is
302
00:22:00,277 --> 00:22:01,695
on any given day.
303
00:22:03,780 --> 00:22:06,700
"Gently guide fortune
and help determine the future
304
00:22:06,700 --> 00:22:09,202
"by thinking far ahead.
305
00:22:09,202 --> 00:22:11,329
"Begin with an end in mind.
306
00:22:11,329 --> 00:22:12,706
"Having an end in mind
307
00:22:12,706 --> 00:22:14,583
"is no guarantee
that you'll reach it.
308
00:22:14,583 --> 00:22:19,379
"But not having an end in mind
is a guarantee you won't.
309
00:22:19,379 --> 00:22:22,591
"Plan all the way to the end.
310
00:22:22,591 --> 00:22:24,342
"When your efforts
are not directed
311
00:22:24,342 --> 00:22:26,178
"at a cause or a purpose,
312
00:22:26,178 --> 00:22:29,014
"how will you know
when to stop?
313
00:22:29,014 --> 00:22:30,724
"How will you know
when you've had enough,
314
00:22:30,724 --> 00:22:32,392
"when you've reached
your goal,
315
00:22:32,392 --> 00:22:34,102
"when you've gotten off track,
316
00:22:34,102 --> 00:22:36,646
"if you've never defined
what those things are?
317
00:22:36,646 --> 00:22:38,398
"The answer is
that you cannot,
318
00:22:38,398 --> 00:22:40,400
"and so you are driven
into failure
319
00:22:40,400 --> 00:22:43,028
"or, worse, into madness.
320
00:22:43,028 --> 00:22:46,365
Oblivion of directionlessness."
321
00:22:46,365 --> 00:22:49,201
♪ ♪
322
00:22:49,201 --> 00:22:52,746
So what's your intention
for today?
323
00:22:52,746 --> 00:22:54,956
Just be loving.
324
00:22:54,956 --> 00:22:59,628
♪ ♪
325
00:22:59,628 --> 00:23:02,798
Meditating is the key
326
00:23:02,798 --> 00:23:05,092
to a meaningful day.
327
00:23:05,092 --> 00:23:08,303
I really like
to just turn this off...
328
00:23:08,303 --> 00:23:10,430
[exhales deeply]
329
00:23:10,430 --> 00:23:12,808
It's really changed my life.
330
00:23:12,808 --> 00:23:14,768
For the first time in my life,
I'm patient.
331
00:23:14,768 --> 00:23:17,020
I have a lot of patience.
332
00:23:17,020 --> 00:23:21,274
I don't need to be out there
chasing that perfect swell.
333
00:23:28,865 --> 00:23:32,160
{\an8}[soft tense music]
334
00:23:32,160 --> 00:23:39,251
{\an8}♪ ♪
335
00:23:44,631 --> 00:23:45,966
{\an8}- We're talking
about a big swell
336
00:23:45,966 --> 00:23:47,342
{\an8}that is on the rise today.
337
00:23:47,342 --> 00:23:48,677
High-surf warnings
have been posted...
338
00:23:48,677 --> 00:23:49,845
Huge surf is here...
339
00:23:49,845 --> 00:23:52,180
The waves are only going
to get bigger overnight.
340
00:23:52,180 --> 00:23:54,182
This swell
is very dangerous.
341
00:23:54,182 --> 00:23:55,225
The surf keeps coming.
342
00:23:55,225 --> 00:23:58,311
That's right--early next week,
we'll have one
343
00:23:58,311 --> 00:24:00,647
of maybe three
or four storm systems
344
00:24:00,647 --> 00:24:02,149
that will pass
to the north.
345
00:24:02,149 --> 00:24:04,067
And this could potentially be
346
00:24:04,067 --> 00:24:06,111
the strongest
we have seen so far...
347
00:24:39,811 --> 00:24:45,317
♪ ♪
348
00:24:50,488 --> 00:24:57,454
♪ ♪
349
00:25:14,304 --> 00:25:17,140
A barrel is one of--
350
00:25:17,140 --> 00:25:20,352
or maybe the best maneuver
in surfing.
351
00:25:37,035 --> 00:25:39,120
[laughing]
It's like really sending
352
00:25:39,120 --> 00:25:40,914
the coin in the air and...
353
00:25:42,707 --> 00:25:43,708
{\an8}Eeh!
354
00:25:54,594 --> 00:25:57,847
[person speaking indistinctly]
Wow!
355
00:26:04,271 --> 00:26:09,317
♪ ♪
356
00:26:09,317 --> 00:26:11,403
When we were
in elementary school,
357
00:26:11,403 --> 00:26:14,406
the talk was, "Oh, I'm gonna
surf Jaws one day,
358
00:26:14,406 --> 00:26:16,116
whenever my parents
will let me."
359
00:26:16,116 --> 00:26:20,161
It almost became my identity
before I even got to ride it.
360
00:26:20,161 --> 00:26:22,289
Like, "I'm gonna be
a Jaws surfer."
361
00:26:22,289 --> 00:26:24,833
[dramatic music]
362
00:26:24,833 --> 00:26:27,210
♪ ♪
363
00:26:27,210 --> 00:26:29,337
Jaws is the birthplace
364
00:26:29,337 --> 00:26:32,132
of tow surfing
and big-wave surfing,
365
00:26:32,132 --> 00:26:33,633
and I've never been there.
366
00:26:33,633 --> 00:26:35,719
To never have been there
and see it,
367
00:26:35,719 --> 00:26:37,178
knowing that it's the mother
368
00:26:37,178 --> 00:26:39,306
of so many great
big-wave surfers, right?
369
00:26:39,306 --> 00:26:40,849
It means so much to Garrett.
370
00:26:40,849 --> 00:26:43,226
He's got so many waves there--
that big barrel.
371
00:26:43,226 --> 00:26:48,648
{\an8}♪ ♪
372
00:26:48,648 --> 00:26:50,358
I was definitely hoping
373
00:26:50,358 --> 00:26:52,569
that Garrett could tow me
in Jaws.
374
00:26:52,569 --> 00:26:56,031
And it could be so sick.
I was dreaming about it.
375
00:27:17,177 --> 00:27:20,221
I was on the fence
to stay here or go to Jaws,
376
00:27:20,221 --> 00:27:21,431
stay here or go to Jaws.
377
00:27:21,431 --> 00:27:23,475
And I hadn't surfed Jaws
in so long,
378
00:27:23,475 --> 00:27:26,728
and my body
wasn't that strong,
379
00:27:26,728 --> 00:27:29,397
but Jaws--kind of like
my first love.
380
00:27:29,397 --> 00:27:31,232
Jaws restarted my career,
381
00:27:31,232 --> 00:27:35,028
and got my favorite wave
I've ever ridden out there.
382
00:27:35,028 --> 00:27:38,031
So I just wanted
to go back and say hello.
383
00:27:38,031 --> 00:27:39,699
Like, Garrett's gonna surf?
384
00:27:39,699 --> 00:27:41,242
And, "What the fuck?
Why are we asking this?"
385
00:27:41,242 --> 00:27:42,869
- Yeah.
- Like, this guy's gonna surf
386
00:27:42,869 --> 00:27:44,245
the craziest wave ever tomorrow.
387
00:27:44,245 --> 00:27:45,872
- Yeah.
- Like, "Go for it."
388
00:27:45,872 --> 00:27:49,042
- Like, we found, like--
- Go down from your cloud.
389
00:27:49,042 --> 00:27:52,462
And at the same moment,
like, also Michel was there.
390
00:27:52,462 --> 00:27:54,547
And he's like,
"Yeah, sure I'll tow you."
391
00:27:54,547 --> 00:27:56,424
Like, Michel, Garrett,
they're both legend,
392
00:27:56,424 --> 00:27:58,343
and we see what happen.
393
00:27:58,343 --> 00:28:01,554
It's been just amazing
having Michel Larronde.
394
00:28:01,554 --> 00:28:03,390
[chuckles]
395
00:28:03,390 --> 00:28:06,184
In France,
he's a big legend.
396
00:28:06,184 --> 00:28:07,769
He's in the dance
with ocean, you know,
397
00:28:07,769 --> 00:28:09,771
and connected.
398
00:28:09,771 --> 00:28:11,189
He's the guy.
399
00:28:11,189 --> 00:28:14,859
He was one of the first surfers
to surf Jaws,
400
00:28:14,859 --> 00:28:17,237
so he's got
a ton of experience.
401
00:28:17,237 --> 00:28:20,281
{\an8}- [chuckles]
- [speaking French]
402
00:28:22,325 --> 00:28:23,493
{\an8}Ah!
403
00:28:26,913 --> 00:28:30,250
{\an8}To be able to have
his confidence with me--
404
00:28:30,250 --> 00:28:31,584
he trusts me--
405
00:28:31,584 --> 00:28:33,878
it's just, like, amazing.
406
00:28:37,048 --> 00:28:38,967
I was going
through my old stuff,
407
00:28:38,967 --> 00:28:41,302
and I found this picture
that I drew
408
00:28:41,302 --> 00:28:43,763
when I was maybe six.
409
00:28:43,763 --> 00:28:45,640
This big blue wave--
410
00:28:45,640 --> 00:28:47,392
me surfing it,
tiny, little guy.
411
00:28:47,392 --> 00:28:49,602
It was giant, sun shining.
412
00:28:49,602 --> 00:28:51,187
And I write this little poem,
413
00:28:51,187 --> 00:28:54,315
and it's like, "The waves
are huge, and I'm going out.
414
00:28:54,315 --> 00:28:57,110
"All the film crew
and everyone's there,
415
00:28:57,110 --> 00:29:00,155
and, like, I go catch the wave
of my life, and it's epic."
416
00:29:00,155 --> 00:29:02,365
{\an8}The thing looked like Jaws
and everything--
417
00:29:02,365 --> 00:29:03,950
{\an8}this little drawing
that I did.
418
00:29:03,950 --> 00:29:05,076
{\an8}I was like,
"Wow. Oh, my God.
419
00:29:05,076 --> 00:29:06,953
{\an8}I just, like, called this,
painted this picture."
420
00:29:06,953 --> 00:29:08,496
I'm like,
"Well, I got to go see
421
00:29:08,496 --> 00:29:10,165
if I can, like,
make it a reality."
422
00:29:10,165 --> 00:29:13,168
So that was the sign that said,
"Okay, yeah, I'm going."
423
00:29:13,168 --> 00:29:18,882
♪ ♪
424
00:29:26,473 --> 00:29:29,476
[exhales deeply]
425
00:29:37,859 --> 00:29:39,819
[grunts]
426
00:29:41,279 --> 00:29:43,198
Nicole?
427
00:29:43,198 --> 00:29:46,993
I'm gonna go cut some flowers
and some tea leaves and stuff.
428
00:29:51,498 --> 00:29:55,251
It's a offering
to the goddess of the ocean,
429
00:29:55,251 --> 00:29:57,504
Yemanjá,
430
00:29:57,504 --> 00:29:59,839
for safe passage
431
00:29:59,839 --> 00:30:03,927
If I don't offer something,
432
00:30:03,927 --> 00:30:06,221
I just offer myself
433
00:30:06,221 --> 00:30:09,098
and my love and gratitude.
434
00:30:09,098 --> 00:30:11,726
Always giving gratitude.
435
00:30:13,228 --> 00:30:15,104
That's beautiful.
436
00:30:20,360 --> 00:30:22,695
This is only my second
session out here.
437
00:30:22,695 --> 00:30:24,030
It's gonna be crazy.
438
00:30:24,030 --> 00:30:25,448
Guys are gonna be doing
crazy stuff.
439
00:30:25,448 --> 00:30:27,867
Hopefully I can throw myself
in that mix, too.
440
00:30:27,867 --> 00:30:29,035
[both chuckle]
441
00:30:29,035 --> 00:30:30,703
You don't have a pull-out
for that yet?
442
00:30:30,703 --> 00:30:32,038
- Yeah.
- Or you do?
443
00:30:32,038 --> 00:30:34,207
Landon's my nephew,
and I've been towing him here,
444
00:30:34,207 --> 00:30:36,918
like, 40-foot waves,
since he was 12 years old.
445
00:30:36,918 --> 00:30:40,547
And he was going to Jaws,
so I took him under my wing.
446
00:30:40,547 --> 00:30:42,173
Here.
447
00:30:42,173 --> 00:30:45,301
I got my little baby with me,
so he was waking up a bunch.
448
00:30:45,301 --> 00:30:48,012
And every time he woke up,
I woke up, and...
449
00:30:48,012 --> 00:30:49,389
every hour I kept hearing
450
00:30:49,389 --> 00:30:51,266
the waves getting
a little bit bigger,
451
00:30:51,266 --> 00:30:53,601
and I was like,
"Oh, okay. It's coming."
452
00:30:53,601 --> 00:30:56,479
Bye, guys. Good luck.
453
00:30:56,479 --> 00:30:58,064
Everybody ready?
454
00:30:58,064 --> 00:30:59,941
- [engine turns over]
- Yep.
455
00:31:06,239 --> 00:31:09,242
[indistinct chatter]
456
00:31:09,242 --> 00:31:13,204
[hums]
Oh, yeah.
457
00:31:17,834 --> 00:31:19,836
{\an8}[chuckles]
458
00:31:25,008 --> 00:31:26,217
{\an8}Little bit.
459
00:31:32,724 --> 00:31:34,309
[grunts]
460
00:31:34,309 --> 00:31:37,228
It was hard to go to Jaws
461
00:31:37,228 --> 00:31:40,940
because I knew that I already
injure myself at this wave.
462
00:31:43,192 --> 00:31:44,402
[siren wailing]
463
00:31:45,903 --> 00:31:49,157
You still have some memory
in your mind
464
00:31:49,157 --> 00:31:52,493
that I had to fight
and to go through.
465
00:31:53,578 --> 00:31:55,288
[grunts]
[person speaking French]
466
00:31:57,707 --> 00:32:00,668
But at the same time,
if you don't go,
467
00:32:00,668 --> 00:32:03,004
you never know.
468
00:32:07,425 --> 00:32:10,345
[dramatic music]
469
00:32:10,345 --> 00:32:13,014
♪ ♪
470
00:32:13,014 --> 00:32:14,599
Whoo-hoo.
471
00:32:14,599 --> 00:32:16,100
- Hey.
- Homeboy, homeboy.
472
00:32:16,100 --> 00:32:17,685
Garrett.
473
00:32:17,685 --> 00:32:19,020
Good to see you.
474
00:32:19,020 --> 00:32:21,147
There was a lot going on.
475
00:32:21,147 --> 00:32:23,650
There was
cars everywhere, boats.
476
00:32:23,650 --> 00:32:25,443
There was
a bunch of windsurfers.
477
00:32:27,654 --> 00:32:29,322
I wasn't in a rush.
I was patient.
478
00:32:29,322 --> 00:32:30,531
The swell was gonna peak
479
00:32:30,531 --> 00:32:32,408
during the second half
of the day,
480
00:32:32,408 --> 00:32:34,952
so I just wanted to be
in the water then.
481
00:32:34,952 --> 00:32:36,996
It seemed pretty clear
482
00:32:36,996 --> 00:32:39,415
that he definitely wanted me
to get a wave.
483
00:32:39,415 --> 00:32:41,584
And as far
as his surfing goes,
484
00:32:41,584 --> 00:32:43,086
he's always looking
for the barrel.
485
00:32:43,086 --> 00:32:45,755
Most surfers,
that's the ultimate, right?
486
00:32:45,755 --> 00:32:50,885
♪ ♪
487
00:32:50,885 --> 00:32:53,638
[engine revving]
488
00:32:53,638 --> 00:32:56,057
There was a lot of hype.
Everybody went.
489
00:32:56,057 --> 00:32:57,725
The hype was real.
490
00:32:57,725 --> 00:32:59,519
It came in. It appeared.
491
00:32:59,519 --> 00:33:03,356
It arrived in full force,
and it came up all day,
492
00:33:03,356 --> 00:33:05,983
and it finale'd
at the end of the day.
493
00:33:05,983 --> 00:33:13,032
♪ ♪
494
00:33:15,284 --> 00:33:17,370
- Oh.
- Work.
495
00:33:17,370 --> 00:33:18,579
Oh, man.
496
00:33:18,579 --> 00:33:24,627
♪ ♪
497
00:33:24,627 --> 00:33:27,255
You know, I'm seeing guys
charging these waves.
498
00:33:27,255 --> 00:33:30,967
It looks like the videos.
It's just, like, surreal.
499
00:33:30,967 --> 00:33:37,849
♪ ♪
500
00:33:58,953 --> 00:34:01,247
Well, we're out there.
We're on the boat.
501
00:34:01,247 --> 00:34:02,957
Day's started, it's under way.
502
00:34:02,957 --> 00:34:05,585
People are catching waves.
We're in the channel.
503
00:34:05,585 --> 00:34:07,795
I'm feeling very intimidated.
504
00:34:07,795 --> 00:34:09,964
And as I'm calming myself down,
505
00:34:09,964 --> 00:34:13,176
I'm also realizing,
"Oh, I'm gonna surf today.
506
00:34:13,176 --> 00:34:14,343
I'm gonna surf."
507
00:34:14,343 --> 00:34:15,970
And just wait my turn--
508
00:34:15,970 --> 00:34:20,516
stay calm, keep breathing,
keep centering, be prepared.
509
00:34:20,516 --> 00:34:22,143
I took Landon out first,
510
00:34:22,143 --> 00:34:24,687
'cause CJ wanted
to check it out.
511
00:34:24,687 --> 00:34:27,023
I don't know what happened
with Landon's board.
512
00:34:27,023 --> 00:34:28,232
Couldn't find it.
513
00:34:28,232 --> 00:34:30,151
It was supposed to be
on another boat or something.
514
00:34:30,151 --> 00:34:32,820
So he used CJ's board,
his brand-new board.
515
00:34:32,820 --> 00:34:38,284
♪ ♪
516
00:34:38,284 --> 00:34:40,286
I put Landon on a few waves.
517
00:34:40,286 --> 00:34:42,121
He was feeling really good.
518
00:34:43,873 --> 00:34:45,541
Oh, there's Landon!
519
00:34:46,834 --> 00:34:49,045
Yeah. That's Landon...
520
00:34:49,045 --> 00:34:50,713
- [chuckles]
- On a bomb.
521
00:34:50,713 --> 00:34:52,465
- [speaks indistinctly]
- Yeah.
522
00:34:52,465 --> 00:34:54,509
Go, Landon, yeah!
523
00:34:54,509 --> 00:34:58,179
Oof. Oh.
Rider down. Rider down.
524
00:35:00,431 --> 00:35:01,724
Do you see him?
525
00:35:01,724 --> 00:35:04,143
- I don't--There he is.
- There he is. Wow.
526
00:35:06,229 --> 00:35:09,649
Most important thing is
that he was okay, obviously.
527
00:35:09,649 --> 00:35:12,485
- They got him.
- Got him.
528
00:35:12,485 --> 00:35:13,694
Whoo.
529
00:35:13,694 --> 00:35:15,780
And then we got the bad news.
530
00:35:21,410 --> 00:35:23,996
- Oh, for real?
- Not around.
531
00:35:23,996 --> 00:35:25,790
Nah, you're messing with me.
532
00:35:25,790 --> 00:35:26,874
Okay.
533
00:35:26,874 --> 00:35:29,794
- Maybe somebody grabbed it.
- No.
534
00:35:29,794 --> 00:35:34,048
I was like, "Oh, wow, my
board really did get wrecked."
535
00:35:34,048 --> 00:35:35,174
So I was just thinking,
536
00:35:35,174 --> 00:35:38,427
"Oh, okay.
So maybe I'm not surfing."
537
00:35:39,971 --> 00:35:44,225
It was like the decision's
been made for me.
538
00:35:44,225 --> 00:35:46,018
And then Garrett comes up.
He's like, "Yeah, it's gone."
539
00:35:46,018 --> 00:35:47,436
He's like,
"But you want to go?"
540
00:35:47,436 --> 00:35:48,813
He's like,
"I can get you a board.
541
00:35:48,813 --> 00:35:50,439
You want to see
if I can find you a board?"
542
00:35:50,439 --> 00:35:51,816
And I'm like, "Yeah, sure--
543
00:35:51,816 --> 00:35:52,900
Like, what kind of board?"
544
00:35:52,900 --> 00:35:54,569
Now I'm gonna try to ride
a new board
545
00:35:54,569 --> 00:35:56,404
at this spot
I've never surfed before?
546
00:35:58,281 --> 00:35:59,532
[exhales sharply]
547
00:35:59,532 --> 00:36:01,826
CJ looks at things as signs
548
00:36:01,826 --> 00:36:03,578
and reasons
that things happen--
549
00:36:03,578 --> 00:36:05,955
"Well, okay, maybe
I'm not supposed to surf."
550
00:36:05,955 --> 00:36:08,958
But I wanted
to get him a wave.
551
00:36:08,958 --> 00:36:12,003
So then I went and found
a board for him.
552
00:36:12,003 --> 00:36:14,589
{\an8}You don't have to go.
You don't have to go.
553
00:36:14,589 --> 00:36:17,091
{\an8}You don't.
554
00:36:17,091 --> 00:36:18,634
Yeah.
555
00:36:18,634 --> 00:36:25,099
♪ ♪
556
00:36:25,099 --> 00:36:26,601
And there in that moment,
557
00:36:26,601 --> 00:36:28,728
I was just doing my best
to get out of my head,
558
00:36:28,728 --> 00:36:30,897
feel the situation--
am I meant to go out?
559
00:36:30,897 --> 00:36:32,857
The danger's out there.
It's safe here.
560
00:36:32,857 --> 00:36:35,610
I'm being called out and...
561
00:36:35,610 --> 00:36:38,571
[sighs]
562
00:36:38,571 --> 00:36:41,407
I just went for it.
It was what I had to do.
563
00:36:41,407 --> 00:36:44,827
♪ ♪
564
00:36:44,827 --> 00:36:46,412
Now, I wouldn't
have pushed him
565
00:36:46,412 --> 00:36:47,872
if he was on the fence.
566
00:36:47,872 --> 00:36:49,582
If he said maybe,
567
00:36:49,582 --> 00:36:51,751
then I would have said,
"Okay, you stay on the boat."
568
00:36:51,751 --> 00:36:55,671
But he said,
"Yeah. I want it."
569
00:36:55,671 --> 00:36:58,466
"Okay. Let's go."
570
00:36:58,466 --> 00:36:59,634
And he killed it!
571
00:36:59,634 --> 00:37:02,678
[upbeat music]
572
00:37:02,678 --> 00:37:08,476
♪ ♪
573
00:37:08,476 --> 00:37:09,977
CJ did amazing.
574
00:37:09,977 --> 00:37:12,104
He did really well
on all waves.
575
00:37:13,731 --> 00:37:15,650
After I got him one,
he wanted another one.
576
00:37:15,650 --> 00:37:17,860
And after I got him another
one, he wanted another one.
577
00:37:17,860 --> 00:37:19,070
He was super fired up.
578
00:37:19,070 --> 00:37:26,118
♪ ♪
579
00:37:32,917 --> 00:37:34,669
Yeah, it was
just incredible
580
00:37:34,669 --> 00:37:36,337
for that dream
to come true, right,
581
00:37:36,337 --> 00:37:38,047
that I drew as a little child.
582
00:37:38,047 --> 00:37:39,507
And now it just happens.
583
00:37:39,507 --> 00:37:41,509
It comes into fruition.
584
00:37:41,509 --> 00:37:44,053
And then it was done.
It's like... [sighs]
585
00:37:44,053 --> 00:37:45,304
This moment
of reflection, right?
586
00:37:45,304 --> 00:37:46,514
Like, I don't know
what it means--
587
00:37:46,514 --> 00:37:47,848
all of it
or anything like that--
588
00:37:47,848 --> 00:37:49,684
but just to recognize,
like, life
589
00:37:49,684 --> 00:37:52,019
and how it brings us
full circle like that.
590
00:37:52,019 --> 00:37:54,188
I draw this little picture,
and little would I ever know
591
00:37:54,188 --> 00:37:56,524
that my sister is gonna end up
marrying Garrett,
592
00:37:56,524 --> 00:37:59,610
and it plugs me in in this way,
and then I'm surfing Jaws.
593
00:37:59,610 --> 00:38:05,533
♪ ♪
594
00:38:09,578 --> 00:38:11,163
The morning
of Super Swell Saturday,
595
00:38:11,163 --> 00:38:12,790
everything was just going wrong.
596
00:38:12,790 --> 00:38:14,500
Like, no matter what I did,
597
00:38:14,500 --> 00:38:16,419
I felt like I just couldn't do
anything right.
598
00:38:16,419 --> 00:38:18,212
I end up going
straight into a wave,
599
00:38:18,212 --> 00:38:19,839
and the Jet Ski
goes over the falls
600
00:38:19,839 --> 00:38:22,717
and just gets annihilated
on the rocks.
601
00:38:22,717 --> 00:38:24,927
People were laughing at me
on the cliff.
602
00:38:24,927 --> 00:38:27,221
Like, I could hear
verbal laughing.
603
00:38:27,221 --> 00:38:30,349
And in that moment, I'm like,
"I'm not supposed to be here.
604
00:38:30,349 --> 00:38:31,976
I'm supposed to be out there."
605
00:38:33,769 --> 00:38:34,770
My brother was like,
606
00:38:34,770 --> 00:38:36,480
"Kai, get on the Jet Ski
with me.
607
00:38:36,480 --> 00:38:38,524
"I'm gonna tow you
into the best waves
608
00:38:38,524 --> 00:38:40,151
you've ever gotten out here."
609
00:38:40,151 --> 00:38:46,198
♪ ♪
610
00:38:46,198 --> 00:38:47,575
I got towed onto this wave,
611
00:38:47,575 --> 00:38:50,327
and I remember being
just so inflated
612
00:38:50,327 --> 00:38:51,912
with adrenaline,
just so intense.
613
00:38:51,912 --> 00:38:55,082
I'm 5'7" but I felt 6'6".
614
00:38:55,082 --> 00:38:57,084
I pulled up
underneath the hood,
615
00:38:57,084 --> 00:38:59,795
and I was waiting for it
to just clamp and destroy me,
616
00:38:59,795 --> 00:39:02,506
but it held open,
and I took a really high line,
617
00:39:02,506 --> 00:39:04,133
and I came out
with a ton of speed--
618
00:39:04,133 --> 00:39:06,594
so much speed I didn't even
know what to do with it.
619
00:39:06,594 --> 00:39:08,387
I squared up
off the bottom, like,
620
00:39:08,387 --> 00:39:10,181
"I'm just gonna punt
a huge air.
621
00:39:10,181 --> 00:39:11,807
I don't even care
what happens."
622
00:39:11,807 --> 00:39:13,434
After I got that wave,
623
00:39:13,434 --> 00:39:16,228
it was like all the pressure
was lifted off my shoulders.
624
00:39:16,228 --> 00:39:17,813
So I go back out,
625
00:39:17,813 --> 00:39:21,025
and sure enough, immediately,
a bigger wave comes in.
626
00:39:21,025 --> 00:39:28,074
♪ ♪
627
00:39:32,161 --> 00:39:34,371
And I was like,
"Wow, that was worth
628
00:39:34,371 --> 00:39:38,834
all the anxiety
and the intensity of the day."
629
00:39:38,834 --> 00:39:41,420
And in that moment,
I was like, "I'm good."
630
00:39:41,420 --> 00:39:42,797
And I'm never good.
631
00:39:42,797 --> 00:39:44,256
Normally I always want
one more.
632
00:39:44,256 --> 00:39:47,968
I'm like, "That was it.
For today, that was it."
633
00:39:47,968 --> 00:39:51,138
And those two waves
will live in my head
634
00:39:51,138 --> 00:39:54,475
clearer than just about
any other rides I've had.
635
00:39:54,475 --> 00:39:56,811
I think that's Kai.
636
00:39:56,811 --> 00:39:59,105
- Huh?
- Kai Lenny.
637
00:39:59,105 --> 00:40:01,148
- Kai!
- They can't hear you. Wave.
638
00:40:01,148 --> 00:40:02,775
- They can't hear you.
- You got to wave.
639
00:40:02,775 --> 00:40:04,276
Give 'em some love.
640
00:40:11,492 --> 00:40:15,621
I think Garrett really wanted
to give Landon and myself
641
00:40:15,621 --> 00:40:17,456
an experience at Jaws.
642
00:40:17,456 --> 00:40:19,291
And once that was accomplished,
643
00:40:19,291 --> 00:40:22,920
he felt free and was ready
and excited to surf.
644
00:40:26,257 --> 00:40:28,717
Got to move forward.
645
00:40:28,717 --> 00:40:30,469
Do your thing.
646
00:40:31,929 --> 00:40:34,348
So he went to get
his couple warm-up waves,
647
00:40:34,348 --> 00:40:35,724
and then Keali'i was like,
648
00:40:35,724 --> 00:40:38,310
"Oh, there's a set coming.
Let's go."
649
00:40:38,310 --> 00:40:41,355
[laughter]
650
00:40:41,355 --> 00:40:44,483
- Feeling good.
- Whoo.
651
00:40:44,483 --> 00:40:47,153
- Oh, yeah. Outside.
- Nice one.
652
00:40:47,153 --> 00:40:48,779
{\an8}- That's Garrett. Yeah!
- Yeah.
653
00:40:48,779 --> 00:40:50,573
{\an8}- Oh!
- No! Oh.
654
00:40:53,534 --> 00:40:54,952
[both groan]
655
00:40:54,952 --> 00:40:56,495
- Why did he--
- What happened?
656
00:40:56,495 --> 00:40:59,665
- What happened, Mom?
- It was the wind.
657
00:40:59,665 --> 00:41:02,710
Let's just know that Keali'i
is there to grab him.
658
00:41:02,710 --> 00:41:04,920
- Right there.
- Mama, what happened?
659
00:41:04,920 --> 00:41:07,381
Uncle Chester's got him.
It must have been the wind.
660
00:41:07,381 --> 00:41:08,674
We don't know, baby.
661
00:41:08,674 --> 00:41:10,092
- Mama, what happened?
- Hold on!
662
00:41:10,092 --> 00:41:11,760
Let's just wait
one second, baby.
663
00:41:13,345 --> 00:41:14,597
{\an8}Did you?
664
00:41:14,597 --> 00:41:16,974
{\an8}- Yeah.
- Is he going under this one?
665
00:41:19,185 --> 00:41:21,854
Come on, Garrett,
where are you?
666
00:41:21,854 --> 00:41:27,526
♪ ♪
667
00:41:27,526 --> 00:41:30,696
[Jet Ski engines revving]
668
00:41:30,696 --> 00:41:37,703
♪ ♪
669
00:41:37,703 --> 00:41:40,664
Did he go
onto the rocks?
670
00:41:40,664 --> 00:41:42,166
We don't know yet.
671
00:41:46,253 --> 00:41:50,090
Don't worry.
Uncle Keali'i will get him.
672
00:41:56,847 --> 00:42:00,476
I see the skis coming back,
so maybe they got him.
673
00:42:02,853 --> 00:42:06,732
[indistinct chatter]
674
00:42:09,026 --> 00:42:10,736
I told him
I didn't want another one.
675
00:42:10,736 --> 00:42:13,239
[laughter]
I'm good.
676
00:42:13,239 --> 00:42:15,074
He's like,
"Maybe one more."
677
00:42:15,074 --> 00:42:16,742
- You all right?
- I'm like, "Okay."
678
00:42:16,742 --> 00:42:17,952
- You all good?
- [grunts]
679
00:42:17,952 --> 00:42:20,246
- You all right?
- Yeah.
680
00:42:20,246 --> 00:42:21,580
[coughs]
681
00:42:21,580 --> 00:42:22,915
[chuckles]
682
00:42:22,915 --> 00:42:26,210
[indistinct chatter]
683
00:42:26,210 --> 00:42:30,798
[coughing, spits]
684
00:42:30,798 --> 00:42:32,299
Garrett--Oh.
685
00:42:32,299 --> 00:42:33,759
- Fuck.
- Is that yours?
686
00:42:33,759 --> 00:42:34,969
- Yeah.
- What?
687
00:42:34,969 --> 00:42:36,303
He's got the other half.
688
00:42:36,303 --> 00:42:39,306
- [indistinct chatter]
- [coughs]
689
00:42:42,434 --> 00:42:44,436
We all got out of there
690
00:42:44,436 --> 00:42:46,730
alive and safe
and not injured.
691
00:42:49,692 --> 00:42:52,111
When I went,
I went for my first wave,
692
00:42:52,111 --> 00:42:54,697
tried to get barreled, didn't.
693
00:42:54,697 --> 00:42:57,116
Then the second wave
was a huge one.
694
00:42:58,701 --> 00:43:01,453
And it came down...
[imitates whooshing]
695
00:43:01,453 --> 00:43:05,499
Lot of chatter, kicked out,
kind of fell off.
696
00:43:05,499 --> 00:43:07,209
And then we're driving
back out,
697
00:43:07,209 --> 00:43:08,877
and I'm like,
"I think I'm good, Keali'i."
698
00:43:08,877 --> 00:43:10,462
And he's like,
"There's one right here.
699
00:43:10,462 --> 00:43:12,423
Go for it."
And I'm like... [groans]
700
00:43:12,423 --> 00:43:14,675
And I was not focused
on this wave,
701
00:43:14,675 --> 00:43:17,261
and my head was not in it.
702
00:43:17,261 --> 00:43:19,513
I don't know what happened,
but I just fell.
703
00:43:19,513 --> 00:43:22,683
So I just fell over,
and then I got sucked over.
704
00:43:24,601 --> 00:43:26,186
Got hit really hard,
705
00:43:26,186 --> 00:43:29,315
and then I got dragged--
I don't know--
706
00:43:29,315 --> 00:43:31,317
a couple football fields underwater.
707
00:43:34,069 --> 00:43:37,781
[Jet Ski engines revving]
708
00:43:42,328 --> 00:43:43,996
I was under
for a little bit, huh?
709
00:43:43,996 --> 00:43:45,622
all: Yeah.
710
00:43:45,622 --> 00:43:47,833
Oof.
711
00:43:47,833 --> 00:43:49,335
How are you?
712
00:43:51,587 --> 00:43:52,546
Huh?
713
00:43:52,546 --> 00:43:54,048
I knew you were gonna
be okay.
714
00:43:54,048 --> 00:43:55,883
Did you see me
duck over the lip?
715
00:43:55,883 --> 00:43:57,551
Yeah.
[laughter]
716
00:43:57,551 --> 00:44:01,680
You got wipeout of the day
for sure.
717
00:44:01,680 --> 00:44:03,223
Were you scared,
or were you okay?
718
00:44:03,223 --> 00:44:05,851
- No.
- All right. That's good.
719
00:44:07,603 --> 00:44:10,022
I was almost glad
that Barrel was there
720
00:44:10,022 --> 00:44:11,190
for that experience
721
00:44:11,190 --> 00:44:13,317
so that he can understand
722
00:44:13,317 --> 00:44:15,694
that it's not just
all fun and games.
723
00:44:15,694 --> 00:44:18,364
Like, it's a serious thing
that his dad does,
724
00:44:18,364 --> 00:44:20,032
and it can be scary.
725
00:44:22,284 --> 00:44:24,161
{\an8}- Yeah, we saw.
- Yeah, yeah, yeah.
726
00:44:24,161 --> 00:44:25,371
{\an8}- We saw--
- And we saw him fall
727
00:44:25,371 --> 00:44:26,372
{\an8}on that one, the last one.
728
00:44:26,372 --> 00:44:28,040
- It was like, "Oh."
- Crazy big.
729
00:44:28,040 --> 00:44:31,251
And when I saw him,
Garrett McNamara,
730
00:44:31,251 --> 00:44:32,461
falling on a wave...
731
00:44:32,461 --> 00:44:36,298
Maybe... [chuckles]
I'm not "undestructible."
732
00:44:36,298 --> 00:44:38,926
[both chuckle]
733
00:44:38,926 --> 00:44:40,594
It was a big swell,
734
00:44:40,594 --> 00:44:44,098
so a lot of people came
to surf the swell.
735
00:44:44,098 --> 00:44:46,767
So you've got big legend,
big names in the water
736
00:44:46,767 --> 00:44:49,937
that all want the biggest wave,
for sure.
737
00:44:49,937 --> 00:44:56,902
♪ ♪
738
00:44:56,902 --> 00:45:00,239
So, in the lineup,
it can be tough sometimes,
739
00:45:00,239 --> 00:45:02,408
but having, like, the legend
Michel Larronde
740
00:45:02,408 --> 00:45:03,534
knowing the place...
741
00:45:08,038 --> 00:45:09,123
I said to Michel
742
00:45:09,123 --> 00:45:11,250
it could be good to start
743
00:45:11,250 --> 00:45:14,294
on a first wave,
kind of a "middle one"...
744
00:45:14,294 --> 00:45:16,130
[chuckles]
Because it was a crazy day.
745
00:45:16,130 --> 00:45:19,425
So it was good.
I surfed the wave nice.
746
00:45:24,221 --> 00:45:27,141
And then we were waiting
for a long time.
747
00:45:27,141 --> 00:45:28,684
We couldn't go on the wave
748
00:45:28,684 --> 00:45:31,228
because some other surfer
were on the wave.
749
00:45:31,228 --> 00:45:32,312
I said to Michel,
750
00:45:32,312 --> 00:45:35,107
"It's okay.
It's just about one wave.
751
00:45:35,107 --> 00:45:37,651
"And we will have it,
and it will take time.
752
00:45:37,651 --> 00:45:39,236
It's okay.
The wave will come."
753
00:45:39,236 --> 00:45:41,321
It's karma--
if you do good thing in life,
754
00:45:41,321 --> 00:45:43,991
good thing will come to you.
755
00:45:45,701 --> 00:45:47,786
I was like, "Hey, Justine,
we go there,
756
00:45:47,786 --> 00:45:49,496
you have to get barrel, huh?"
757
00:45:49,496 --> 00:45:51,165
And Tyler was like,
"Hey, Justine, Jaws--
758
00:45:51,165 --> 00:45:52,291
You gonna get barrel."
759
00:45:52,291 --> 00:45:54,376
{\an8}And Michel was like,
"Hey, I'm gonna put you
760
00:45:54,376 --> 00:45:55,752
{\an8}on a barrel for sure."
761
00:45:57,463 --> 00:46:01,341
♪ ♪
762
00:46:01,341 --> 00:46:03,135
Fred told me something before.
763
00:46:03,135 --> 00:46:05,345
He was like,
"Just trust yourself.
764
00:46:05,345 --> 00:46:07,514
"You can't control it.
765
00:46:07,514 --> 00:46:11,059
"So just trust your skills,
and it will be fine.
766
00:46:11,059 --> 00:46:14,188
You will do the great choice
on the wave."
767
00:46:14,188 --> 00:46:21,195
♪ ♪
768
00:47:11,286 --> 00:47:14,206
Justine's wave was amazing.
769
00:47:14,206 --> 00:47:15,415
That was the wave of the day.
770
00:47:15,415 --> 00:47:17,251
Justine got
the wave of the day.
771
00:47:17,251 --> 00:47:23,090
♪ ♪
772
00:47:23,090 --> 00:47:25,092
That looks like Justine.
773
00:47:25,092 --> 00:47:27,302
Oh, my.
774
00:47:27,302 --> 00:47:30,138
Oh, yeah.
[people cheering]
775
00:47:30,138 --> 00:47:31,932
Oh, yeah.
776
00:47:31,932 --> 00:47:33,892
- That was Justine.
- That was Justine, wasn't it?
777
00:47:33,892 --> 00:47:35,602
Whoo-hoo-hoo!
778
00:47:35,602 --> 00:47:36,979
- Yeah.
- Wow.
779
00:47:36,979 --> 00:47:38,522
- Show 'em how to do it!
- Sick.
780
00:47:38,522 --> 00:47:39,731
Show 'em how to do it, yeah.
781
00:47:39,731 --> 00:47:41,942
- Showing the men how to do it.
- Yeah, she did.
782
00:47:41,942 --> 00:47:43,569
She just straight up showed us.
783
00:47:45,320 --> 00:47:47,072
I remember looking out
and just seeing
784
00:47:47,072 --> 00:47:49,408
this 60-foot-tall wave,
and I was like,
785
00:47:49,408 --> 00:47:51,243
"Oh, my God. She's too deep.
She's too deep.
786
00:47:51,243 --> 00:47:52,911
She's too deep."
787
00:47:52,911 --> 00:47:56,081
Everyone thought she was gone,
and she comes flying out.
788
00:47:56,081 --> 00:47:57,916
And it was redemption.
789
00:47:57,916 --> 00:48:00,794
Oh, my God.
790
00:48:00,794 --> 00:48:05,299
Oh, that was insane.
791
00:48:05,299 --> 00:48:08,635
She got one of the best wave
ever ridden,
792
00:48:08,635 --> 00:48:11,972
period, in Jaws
with everybody around--
793
00:48:11,972 --> 00:48:13,890
like, all the best
big-wave surfer in the world.
794
00:48:13,890 --> 00:48:15,392
Like, it's amazing.
795
00:48:15,392 --> 00:48:17,144
She's stoked.
Everybody's stoked.
796
00:48:17,144 --> 00:48:20,105
And, man,
I'm just so proud of her.
797
00:48:20,105 --> 00:48:21,898
As soon as I was
on the wave,
798
00:48:21,898 --> 00:48:25,319
nothing was existing anymore.
799
00:48:25,319 --> 00:48:28,363
You know, I was just focused
on what I was doing
800
00:48:28,363 --> 00:48:29,948
right here, right now.
801
00:48:32,242 --> 00:48:34,328
When I was in the barrel,
really deep,
802
00:48:34,328 --> 00:48:36,622
I was like... [gasps]
"I want to jump from the board.
803
00:48:36,622 --> 00:48:38,624
I want to escape this."
804
00:48:38,624 --> 00:48:41,460
But in same time,
I just thought about Fred--
805
00:48:41,460 --> 00:48:43,879
"No. Believe in yourself.
Do it."
806
00:48:43,879 --> 00:48:50,052
♪ ♪
807
00:48:50,052 --> 00:48:53,680
[people cheering]
808
00:48:53,680 --> 00:48:56,975
And then there
is a little part of magic
809
00:48:56,975 --> 00:48:59,061
and of luck.
810
00:48:59,061 --> 00:49:03,815
♪ ♪
811
00:49:19,915 --> 00:49:21,667
{\an8}- When you surf
what some people call
812
00:49:21,667 --> 00:49:23,085
one of the best wave
ever ridden
813
00:49:23,085 --> 00:49:25,003
in the history
of big-wave surfing,
814
00:49:25,003 --> 00:49:26,880
you can think
about money, sponsors,
815
00:49:26,880 --> 00:49:29,257
fame, media,
awards, or records,
816
00:49:29,257 --> 00:49:30,550
whatever you want.
817
00:49:30,550 --> 00:49:33,261
But did we travel for that?
No.
818
00:49:33,261 --> 00:49:36,223
Are we doing
big-wave surfing for that? No.
819
00:49:36,223 --> 00:49:38,183
Were we expecting that?
820
00:49:38,183 --> 00:49:39,893
No.
821
00:49:39,893 --> 00:49:42,229
Like, we went to Jaws
because she wanted
822
00:49:42,229 --> 00:49:44,606
to catch a crazy wave
after her injury.
823
00:49:44,606 --> 00:49:45,982
That's what she did.
824
00:52:01,076 --> 00:52:02,077
[bright tone]
60898
Can't find what you're looking for?
Get subtitles in any language from opensubtitles.com, and translate them here.