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1
00:00:02,043 --> 00:00:02,919
[TV static drones]
2
00:00:03,002 --> 00:00:05,922
[bright tone]
3
00:00:06,005 --> 00:00:09,092
[waves crashing]
4
00:00:09,175 --> 00:00:12,095
[suspenseful energetic music]
5
00:00:12,178 --> 00:00:19,144
♪ ♪
6
00:00:59,893 --> 00:01:01,019
- For centuries,
7
00:01:01,102 --> 00:01:03,480
the people of Nazaré
have lived by the singing sea,
8
00:01:03,563 --> 00:01:05,273
reaping of its bounty.
9
00:01:05,356 --> 00:01:07,233
- Here, little has changed.
10
00:01:07,317 --> 00:01:09,360
The same struggle
with the sea,
11
00:01:09,444 --> 00:01:11,446
the last barrier
to the gray waters
12
00:01:11,529 --> 00:01:12,697
of the Atlantic,
13
00:01:12,781 --> 00:01:16,493
rolling in to die
amid the flying surf.
14
00:02:00,078 --> 00:02:03,331
- [speaking Portuguese]
15
00:02:35,613 --> 00:02:42,579
♪ ♪
16
00:03:20,408 --> 00:03:23,286
[flowing piano music]
17
00:03:23,369 --> 00:03:30,418
♪ ♪
18
00:04:10,792 --> 00:04:13,711
[soft upbeat ukulele music]
19
00:04:13,795 --> 00:04:16,756
♪ ♪
20
00:04:16,839 --> 00:04:18,591
- Okay, sort of the best way
to climb a tree
21
00:04:18,675 --> 00:04:20,510
is get a work shirt on first.
22
00:04:20,593 --> 00:04:21,511
- That is true.
23
00:04:21,594 --> 00:04:22,804
- [grunts]
- Oh, snap.
24
00:04:22,887 --> 00:04:24,931
[indistinct chatter]
25
00:04:25,014 --> 00:04:26,182
- [groans]
26
00:04:26,265 --> 00:04:29,477
[shouts playfully]
27
00:04:29,560 --> 00:04:30,728
♪ ♪
28
00:04:30,812 --> 00:04:33,815
Can you get us a coconut?
- Don't fall. I swear.
29
00:04:33,898 --> 00:04:37,652
- When the pandemic hit,
everything slowed down
30
00:04:37,735 --> 00:04:38,653
to where I could actually
31
00:04:38,736 --> 00:04:42,615
really be present
with my family.
32
00:04:42,699 --> 00:04:44,826
Putting quality time
into Barrel...
33
00:04:44,909 --> 00:04:46,703
Yeah!
34
00:04:46,786 --> 00:04:48,955
Still on, Barrel?
- Yeah.
35
00:04:49,038 --> 00:04:53,710
- And then every day,
teaching Theia something new.
36
00:04:53,793 --> 00:04:55,378
There she goes.
37
00:04:55,461 --> 00:04:56,879
- Whoa!
- Go, Theia, go!
38
00:04:56,963 --> 00:04:59,924
all: Whoa!
39
00:05:00,008 --> 00:05:01,426
- It was more time
with Nicole,
40
00:05:01,509 --> 00:05:04,721
more time with everybody.
41
00:05:04,804 --> 00:05:07,974
- We live on a property
that has other families,
42
00:05:08,057 --> 00:05:12,395
so looking back, you know,
Garrett grew up on a commune.
43
00:05:12,478 --> 00:05:13,896
- You guys got
such good parents.
44
00:05:13,980 --> 00:05:15,189
Look at all your good food.
45
00:05:15,273 --> 00:05:18,484
- But our property pretty much
turned into a commune.
46
00:05:18,568 --> 00:05:19,819
- I'm grateful for this place,
47
00:05:19,902 --> 00:05:22,530
this land that
we can have a school on and--
48
00:05:22,613 --> 00:05:25,158
We started inventorying life
49
00:05:25,241 --> 00:05:27,285
and figuring out
all the things that we needed,
50
00:05:27,368 --> 00:05:29,037
and boom, all of a sudden,
when the schools closed down,
51
00:05:29,120 --> 00:05:32,331
there's this huge need to have
a place for the kids to be,
52
00:05:32,415 --> 00:05:35,918
and Nicole started a whole
middle school, basically.
53
00:05:36,002 --> 00:05:37,086
- Okay, so physics
54
00:05:37,170 --> 00:05:41,007
is the science
that studies matter.
55
00:05:41,090 --> 00:05:42,884
- And then we turn this sweet,
little spot here
56
00:05:42,967 --> 00:05:44,302
into a little first grade.
57
00:05:44,385 --> 00:05:45,970
♪ ♪
58
00:05:46,054 --> 00:05:47,930
I took the role
of being teacher
59
00:05:48,014 --> 00:05:50,433
for that first grade class.
60
00:05:50,516 --> 00:05:52,935
- My brother has
a wonderful soul,
61
00:05:53,019 --> 00:05:55,438
and that makes
a wonderful teacher.
62
00:05:55,521 --> 00:05:57,690
- Then you put it down
on your flat surface.
63
00:05:57,774 --> 00:05:59,901
- Wow.
Check it out, CJ.
64
00:05:59,984 --> 00:06:01,569
- I wanna see.
- Yes.
65
00:06:01,652 --> 00:06:02,570
- You guys need
to look at the rainbow.
66
00:06:02,653 --> 00:06:03,738
- You can look at the rainbow.
67
00:06:03,821 --> 00:06:06,074
- The rainbow!
68
00:06:06,157 --> 00:06:07,408
- [chuckles]
69
00:06:07,492 --> 00:06:09,827
The rainbow's going away,
but...
70
00:06:09,911 --> 00:06:12,288
Barrel, get over there.
71
00:06:12,371 --> 00:06:15,625
Everybody, smile!
One, two, three!
72
00:06:15,708 --> 00:06:18,252
- Whoo!
- Okay, now do something crazy.
73
00:06:18,336 --> 00:06:20,213
♪ ♪
74
00:06:20,296 --> 00:06:21,297
- Garrett seemed great.
75
00:06:21,380 --> 00:06:23,299
I think he loved, like,
not having a choice.
76
00:06:23,382 --> 00:06:25,093
It was almost like someone's
like, "No, you stay put."
77
00:06:25,176 --> 00:06:26,636
And I think
that's the medicine
78
00:06:26,719 --> 00:06:28,679
that lockdown really
brought us, was, like,
79
00:06:28,763 --> 00:06:30,681
seeing our lives,
sitting in our lives,
80
00:06:30,765 --> 00:06:32,100
seeing what we've created,
81
00:06:32,183 --> 00:06:35,353
are we happy with
our most immediate environment?
82
00:06:35,436 --> 00:06:36,854
And we got a good dose of that,
yeah.
83
00:06:36,938 --> 00:06:42,443
♪ ♪
84
00:06:42,527 --> 00:06:45,488
[chickens clucking]
85
00:06:46,531 --> 00:06:49,492
- Wow.
86
00:06:49,575 --> 00:06:51,619
Best forecast I've seen
in a long time.
87
00:06:51,702 --> 00:06:52,829
[suspenseful music]
88
00:06:52,912 --> 00:06:54,831
I was still looking
at weather maps,
89
00:06:54,914 --> 00:06:56,833
as I always do.
90
00:06:56,916 --> 00:06:59,001
I'm looking what the next
tow swell is coming
91
00:06:59,085 --> 00:07:00,920
or going to one
of the outer islands
92
00:07:01,003 --> 00:07:03,172
or going over
to the West Side.
93
00:07:03,256 --> 00:07:05,716
- He kept saying how much
he loved just being here,
94
00:07:05,800 --> 00:07:07,176
and I think he really did
95
00:07:07,260 --> 00:07:09,595
and then when
a swell pops up somewhere,
96
00:07:09,679 --> 00:07:11,681
it's like the froth starts
and he's, like,
97
00:07:11,764 --> 00:07:13,015
looking at the phone, you know?
98
00:07:13,099 --> 00:07:14,016
Just, like checking out.
99
00:07:14,100 --> 00:07:15,059
He's like,
"Man, there's this swell,"
100
00:07:15,143 --> 00:07:16,602
and it's like
he's wanting to go.
101
00:07:16,686 --> 00:07:19,522
[suspenseful rhythmic music]
102
00:07:19,605 --> 00:07:21,482
♪ ♪
103
00:07:21,566 --> 00:07:23,860
- Here in Hawaii,
you get to go out in the ocean
104
00:07:23,943 --> 00:07:25,153
every day and surf,
105
00:07:25,236 --> 00:07:26,988
It's so good,
106
00:07:27,071 --> 00:07:29,782
but the big waves
are in Nazaré.
107
00:07:29,866 --> 00:07:32,827
♪ ♪
108
00:07:32,910 --> 00:07:36,497
- He still is waiting
for that perfect swell,
109
00:07:36,581 --> 00:07:39,125
the most perfect conditions
of a 100-foot wave.
110
00:07:39,208 --> 00:07:41,919
He wants it to be perfect.
111
00:07:42,003 --> 00:07:43,880
But I think
even deeper down inside,
112
00:07:43,963 --> 00:07:47,550
it's wanting to be able
to help Cotty with his goals.
113
00:07:47,633 --> 00:07:49,719
- Bom dia.
- Bom dia.
114
00:07:49,802 --> 00:07:51,554
- Where are you?
- I'm home.
115
00:07:51,637 --> 00:07:53,181
- What's been going on?
116
00:07:53,264 --> 00:07:55,683
When I spoke to Garrett
that summer,
117
00:07:55,766 --> 00:07:57,018
he was sort of saying, like,
118
00:07:57,101 --> 00:07:58,603
it's the longest time
he'd ever been in Hawaii
119
00:07:58,686 --> 00:07:59,770
and that he's loving it,
120
00:07:59,854 --> 00:08:02,356
but for me in England,
121
00:08:02,440 --> 00:08:05,902
it was quite a worrying time
sponsorship-wise.
122
00:08:05,985 --> 00:08:07,862
Contracts were getting canceled
and, like,
123
00:08:07,945 --> 00:08:11,908
little bits of revenue
were getting cut and--and--
124
00:08:11,991 --> 00:08:13,868
you know, it was worrying.
125
00:08:13,951 --> 00:08:16,245
It was a tough summer.
126
00:08:16,329 --> 00:08:17,663
And then you worry about
127
00:08:17,747 --> 00:08:19,081
how you're gonna
fund the winter,
128
00:08:19,165 --> 00:08:22,251
how you're gonna
fund the family.
129
00:08:22,335 --> 00:08:25,963
You know, surfing big waves,
it's just so expensive to do.
130
00:08:26,047 --> 00:08:27,006
[mouse clicks]
131
00:08:27,089 --> 00:08:29,258
I think it looks like,
on social media...
132
00:08:29,342 --> 00:08:30,968
[chuckling]
All roses.
133
00:08:31,052 --> 00:08:31,928
You know, like the dream.
134
00:08:32,011 --> 00:08:33,179
And it is a dream,
but it is--
135
00:08:33,262 --> 00:08:34,805
it is full-time work.
136
00:08:34,889 --> 00:08:36,390
And it's a hustle.
137
00:08:36,474 --> 00:08:37,767
You're looking at every way
138
00:08:37,850 --> 00:08:40,770
to make an extra few hundred
quid here or a grand there
139
00:08:40,853 --> 00:08:42,271
or, you know, like,
whatever you can do
140
00:08:42,355 --> 00:08:44,232
to sort of fund it, you know?
141
00:08:44,315 --> 00:08:47,068
[soft dramatic music]
142
00:08:47,151 --> 00:08:48,736
It's gonna be hard
to know, like,
143
00:08:48,819 --> 00:08:51,155
how a season's gonna play out
with the coronavirus thing
144
00:08:51,239 --> 00:08:52,406
and, like,
how movement's gonna be,
145
00:08:52,490 --> 00:08:54,742
whether we just stay at Nazaré
or whether we chase swells
146
00:08:54,825 --> 00:08:56,244
or--
147
00:08:56,327 --> 00:08:57,453
I just wanna get there now.
148
00:08:57,536 --> 00:08:59,038
I wanna get there,
I wanna get set up.
149
00:08:59,121 --> 00:09:05,628
♪ ♪
150
00:09:05,711 --> 00:09:07,296
I just wanna
get all my boards ready
151
00:09:07,380 --> 00:09:09,840
and then
I can relax a little bit.
152
00:09:09,924 --> 00:09:11,467
♪ ♪
153
00:09:11,550 --> 00:09:13,636
It's nice to be back
and, you know, without a doubt,
154
00:09:13,719 --> 00:09:15,721
here is the best place to be.
155
00:09:18,266 --> 00:09:20,935
[flowing dramatic music]
156
00:09:21,018 --> 00:09:26,482
♪ ♪
157
00:09:26,565 --> 00:09:29,610
Every season in Nazaré has
a lot riding on it, you know?
158
00:09:29,694 --> 00:09:31,821
Like, you want to perform,
you want to be best,
159
00:09:31,904 --> 00:09:33,656
you want get that wave.
160
00:09:33,739 --> 00:09:35,700
It'll make your career
or break it, you know?
161
00:09:35,783 --> 00:09:37,785
Or get you sponsorships
or not.
162
00:09:37,868 --> 00:09:43,165
♪ ♪
163
00:09:43,249 --> 00:09:46,502
[waves crashing]
164
00:09:46,586 --> 00:09:49,672
[indistinct chatter]
165
00:09:50,131 --> 00:09:52,925
- [speaking Portuguese]
166
00:09:53,009 --> 00:09:55,845
[both speaking Portuguese]
167
00:10:06,522 --> 00:10:08,441
[laughter]
168
00:10:08,524 --> 00:10:10,318
[soft upbeat music]
169
00:10:10,401 --> 00:10:12,653
This is mine.
170
00:10:12,737 --> 00:10:14,113
To be a big wave surfer,
171
00:10:14,196 --> 00:10:18,326
you need to be training
all the off-season
172
00:10:18,409 --> 00:10:19,660
to be ready for the season.
173
00:11:07,625 --> 00:11:10,044
♪ ♪
174
00:11:30,648 --> 00:11:31,565
- A lot of times,
175
00:11:31,649 --> 00:11:34,235
I feel like a lot of people
are judging me.
176
00:11:34,318 --> 00:11:36,404
Like, "Oh, you're too young
for this sport."
177
00:11:36,487 --> 00:11:39,240
♪ ♪
178
00:11:39,323 --> 00:11:42,993
I've been surfing Nazaré
the last six years,
179
00:11:43,077 --> 00:11:46,247
so I can say that
I have more experience
180
00:11:46,330 --> 00:11:49,250
than some guys
that are older than me.
181
00:11:49,333 --> 00:11:52,002
♪ ♪
182
00:11:52,086 --> 00:11:53,295
For me,
it's the most important thing
183
00:11:53,379 --> 00:11:55,214
to have a good mentality.
184
00:12:02,721 --> 00:12:04,432
♪ ♪
185
00:12:11,814 --> 00:12:14,275
- Right now, I am 18.
186
00:12:14,358 --> 00:12:16,152
I just broke my Magic board.
187
00:12:18,863 --> 00:12:20,114
- Yeah.
[laughter]
188
00:12:20,197 --> 00:12:21,991
- What's this?
Like, it was the thing?
189
00:12:22,074 --> 00:12:24,076
- The Magic board.
The sick board.
190
00:12:24,160 --> 00:12:25,286
- Was it?
- Yeah.
191
00:12:25,369 --> 00:12:27,955
- It's gone?
- The Magic board, it's gone.
192
00:12:28,038 --> 00:12:30,791
My idol is Justine.
193
00:12:30,875 --> 00:12:33,419
When Justine and Fred
are in the water,
194
00:12:33,502 --> 00:12:37,006
the session just get better.
195
00:12:37,089 --> 00:12:39,341
- Oh, yeah.
196
00:12:39,425 --> 00:12:42,470
[speaking French]
197
00:13:02,114 --> 00:13:05,034
[upbeat acoustic guitar music]
198
00:13:05,117 --> 00:13:12,124
♪ ♪
199
00:13:13,375 --> 00:13:15,461
- Justine is
a big wave surfer.
200
00:13:15,544 --> 00:13:18,881
Professional one and probably
one of the best in the world.
201
00:13:18,964 --> 00:13:20,674
♪ ♪
202
00:13:20,758 --> 00:13:23,636
She's just, like, killing it
every time she's in the water.
203
00:13:23,719 --> 00:13:26,889
She's smiling all the time.
She's humble.
204
00:13:26,972 --> 00:13:28,557
She keeps being natural.
205
00:13:28,641 --> 00:13:31,393
She's trying to do better
every day.
206
00:13:41,153 --> 00:13:43,656
♪ ♪
207
00:13:48,410 --> 00:13:55,376
♪ ♪
208
00:13:56,001 --> 00:13:57,795
[laughter]
209
00:13:57,878 --> 00:14:00,714
- We both, like, agree that
we're gonna put aside friends,
210
00:14:00,798 --> 00:14:02,091
we're gonna put aside family,
211
00:14:02,174 --> 00:14:03,759
we're gonna
put aside everything
212
00:14:03,842 --> 00:14:06,262
and focus on one goal:
213
00:14:06,345 --> 00:14:09,181
Justine performing
the best she can.
214
00:14:09,265 --> 00:14:12,476
My main focus is
to become the best I can,
215
00:14:12,560 --> 00:14:16,272
drive her in Nazaré
to put her on the best wave.
216
00:14:16,355 --> 00:14:19,233
- I was able to improve
way faster
217
00:14:19,316 --> 00:14:20,776
because Fred was there.
218
00:14:20,859 --> 00:14:24,488
♪ ♪
219
00:14:24,572 --> 00:14:25,739
- For Justine to perform,
220
00:14:25,823 --> 00:14:28,909
she really needs that kind
of family feeling, you know?
221
00:14:28,993 --> 00:14:30,911
To be in some place
222
00:14:30,995 --> 00:14:32,079
where she's feeling home,
223
00:14:32,162 --> 00:14:34,748
she's feeling safe,
she's feeling happy.
224
00:14:43,048 --> 00:14:44,466
- She always have new goals,
225
00:14:44,550 --> 00:14:46,927
and I love to help her
to achieve her goals.
226
00:14:49,555 --> 00:14:50,598
[Justine chuckles]
227
00:14:55,894 --> 00:14:57,187
[Justine chuckles]
228
00:14:57,271 --> 00:14:58,606
♪ ♪
229
00:14:58,689 --> 00:14:59,607
Whoa!
230
00:14:59,690 --> 00:15:01,025
[speaks French]
231
00:15:07,615 --> 00:15:08,991
- She's scared to tell me
because after...
232
00:15:09,074 --> 00:15:10,117
[Justine chuckles]
I will be like, "Hey,
233
00:15:10,200 --> 00:15:12,620
you told me you want
to do this, so let's do it."
234
00:15:12,703 --> 00:15:15,080
[all grunt]
235
00:15:17,082 --> 00:15:19,418
- [speaking French]
236
00:15:29,762 --> 00:15:32,640
[soft dramatic music]
237
00:15:32,723 --> 00:15:34,808
♪ ♪
238
00:15:50,616 --> 00:15:51,659
- Every season,
239
00:15:51,742 --> 00:15:53,535
there's a lot going on
in my head.
240
00:15:53,619 --> 00:15:55,663
You know,
like the fear, anxiety.
241
00:15:55,746 --> 00:15:58,165
[sparse dramatic music]
242
00:15:58,248 --> 00:15:59,500
But when you push past
those things,
243
00:15:59,583 --> 00:16:03,045
that's when always,
you get the biggest reward.
244
00:16:03,128 --> 00:16:07,216
- For me, I'm just hoping to
have, like, an amazing season,
245
00:16:07,299 --> 00:16:11,011
and I want to catch
the biggest wave of my life.
246
00:16:11,095 --> 00:16:18,060
♪ ♪
247
00:16:18,727 --> 00:16:21,689
[thunder rumbling]
248
00:16:28,404 --> 00:16:31,365
[thunderclaps booming
and echoing]
249
00:16:32,700 --> 00:16:35,577
[tense orchestral music]
250
00:16:35,661 --> 00:16:37,705
♪ ♪
251
00:16:37,788 --> 00:16:41,083
[dramatic orchestral music]
252
00:16:41,166 --> 00:16:48,006
♪ ♪
253
00:16:52,845 --> 00:16:55,139
- Tropical Storm Epsilon
254
00:16:55,222 --> 00:16:56,682
is now Hurricane Epsilon.
255
00:16:56,765 --> 00:17:01,061
- 110-mile per hour winds,
gusts up to 130.
256
00:17:01,145 --> 00:17:03,230
- It looks to pass
just east of Bermuda
257
00:17:03,313 --> 00:17:05,274
before it turns northeast
258
00:17:05,357 --> 00:17:06,900
and goes into
the history books.
259
00:17:06,984 --> 00:17:10,946
Again, Hurricane Epsilon
has formed tonight.
260
00:17:11,029 --> 00:17:17,244
♪ ♪
261
00:17:17,327 --> 00:17:19,371
[indistinct chatter]
262
00:17:22,249 --> 00:17:23,959
We saw this big swell
on the map.
263
00:17:24,042 --> 00:17:27,212
It was the best-looking
swell that I've seen
264
00:17:27,296 --> 00:17:29,298
with the best conditions,
265
00:17:29,381 --> 00:17:31,258
and it looked like it was
gonna be the biggest wave
266
00:17:31,341 --> 00:17:33,260
we'd ever seen.
267
00:17:33,343 --> 00:17:38,182
♪ ♪
268
00:17:38,265 --> 00:17:43,645
- We have spent the last
ten Octobers in Nazaré.
269
00:17:43,729 --> 00:17:45,939
How could we not go?
270
00:17:46,023 --> 00:17:46,940
♪ ♪
271
00:17:47,024 --> 00:17:49,943
[jet engine roaring]
272
00:17:50,027 --> 00:17:52,196
♪ ♪
273
00:17:52,279 --> 00:17:54,907
[energetic orchestral music]
274
00:17:54,990 --> 00:17:56,158
- That's just the little one.
275
00:17:56,241 --> 00:17:57,659
- Two stands.
- Two stands.
276
00:17:57,743 --> 00:17:59,244
[both laugh]
277
00:17:59,328 --> 00:18:00,621
I love Portugal.
I love being here.
278
00:18:00,704 --> 00:18:03,081
When I'm in Hawaii,
I forget how special it is,
279
00:18:03,165 --> 00:18:05,083
but once I get here
and step off the plane
280
00:18:05,167 --> 00:18:07,086
and there's so much love
and support
281
00:18:07,169 --> 00:18:08,670
and it's such
a beautiful country,
282
00:18:08,754 --> 00:18:10,005
beautiful people.
283
00:18:10,088 --> 00:18:11,465
Olá.
- Uma foto?
284
00:18:11,548 --> 00:18:12,508
- Okay.
285
00:18:12,591 --> 00:18:16,136
♪ ♪
286
00:18:16,220 --> 00:18:18,013
Wow, yeah.
287
00:18:18,096 --> 00:18:20,557
This is beautiful, huh?
288
00:18:20,641 --> 00:18:22,392
So beautiful.
289
00:18:22,476 --> 00:18:24,478
So nice to be home.
290
00:18:24,561 --> 00:18:29,566
♪ ♪
291
00:18:33,403 --> 00:18:36,615
- Instead of seeing this
giant swell coming like,
292
00:18:36,698 --> 00:18:38,659
"Oh, look at this
huge swell coming."
293
00:18:38,742 --> 00:18:39,701
Like, he does say that.
294
00:18:39,785 --> 00:18:40,869
He's like,
"Oh, there's a big one coming."
295
00:18:40,953 --> 00:18:42,037
But now, it's like...
296
00:18:42,120 --> 00:18:43,997
There's one.
They're going, Garrett.
297
00:18:44,081 --> 00:18:45,833
"Oh, shoot.
Okay, big one's coming.
298
00:18:45,916 --> 00:18:47,793
"Is it gonna be
perfect conditions
299
00:18:47,876 --> 00:18:50,379
"where I have to go out
because it's so perfect,
300
00:18:50,462 --> 00:18:52,714
"or can I say, like,
301
00:18:52,798 --> 00:18:57,094
the wind's shitty enough
that I'm just not into it?"
302
00:19:01,139 --> 00:19:02,558
- Yeah.
303
00:19:02,641 --> 00:19:03,559
♪ ♪
304
00:19:03,642 --> 00:19:04,893
- Since I broke my shoulder,
305
00:19:04,977 --> 00:19:07,855
I haven't
been physically ready.
306
00:19:07,938 --> 00:19:10,148
But I don't think
it's really worth it.
307
00:19:10,232 --> 00:19:12,317
I don't have anything
to prove.
308
00:19:12,401 --> 00:19:14,486
Yeah, yeah.
Now the other one. Yeah.
309
00:19:14,570 --> 00:19:16,905
If my body's not feeling 100%,
310
00:19:16,989 --> 00:19:19,908
I don't really feel like
putting it in danger.
311
00:19:19,992 --> 00:19:22,160
- All right, breathe.
- Pretty good, yeah.
312
00:19:22,244 --> 00:19:23,537
- Mm.
- [chuckles]
313
00:19:23,620 --> 00:19:25,789
He always hassles me.
314
00:19:25,873 --> 00:19:27,666
I always make sure
I have my board with me
315
00:19:27,749 --> 00:19:31,086
if I really wanted
to get away,
316
00:19:31,169 --> 00:19:32,880
but I was there for Cotty.
317
00:19:32,963 --> 00:19:35,132
There he is.
- [chuckles]
318
00:19:35,215 --> 00:19:37,759
- I just put all the stuff
in the water over there
319
00:19:37,843 --> 00:19:38,969
right by the ski.
320
00:19:39,052 --> 00:19:41,889
Cotty has given me
my life-changing,
321
00:19:41,972 --> 00:19:45,767
most monumental waves
of my career.
322
00:19:45,851 --> 00:19:49,229
- Whoa, big set, big set.
323
00:19:49,313 --> 00:19:56,194
♪ ♪
324
00:19:59,656 --> 00:20:02,618
Now I really want to get Cotty
the wave of his life.
325
00:20:02,701 --> 00:20:04,202
Let's go.
326
00:20:04,286 --> 00:20:08,206
♪ ♪
327
00:20:12,586 --> 00:20:15,464
♪ ♪
328
00:20:15,547 --> 00:20:17,549
- Because I've surfed with him
so much and he's so good,
329
00:20:17,633 --> 00:20:18,759
I can 100% trust him
330
00:20:18,842 --> 00:20:21,845
and 100% know that, yeah,
he's gonna get me a wave.
331
00:20:28,018 --> 00:20:30,312
I love how he drives
and I love his energy
332
00:20:30,395 --> 00:20:31,939
and he's got
so much knowledge,
333
00:20:32,022 --> 00:20:34,483
and it's good to get that
and then get that feedback.
334
00:20:34,566 --> 00:20:40,280
♪ ♪
335
00:20:40,364 --> 00:20:41,448
- What up?
- How was it?
336
00:20:43,533 --> 00:20:45,619
- Yeah, so--so you--
337
00:20:45,702 --> 00:20:46,620
[car horn honks]
338
00:20:50,249 --> 00:20:54,336
♪ ♪
339
00:20:54,419 --> 00:20:55,712
What's up?
340
00:20:55,796 --> 00:20:58,048
- [indistinct].
- How's it going?
341
00:20:58,131 --> 00:21:00,050
- All good.
- Good.
342
00:21:00,133 --> 00:21:01,677
- Tired?
- Yeah.
343
00:21:01,760 --> 00:21:04,179
Mikey got tired, yeah.
344
00:21:04,262 --> 00:21:05,305
- Cool.
345
00:21:07,516 --> 00:21:10,060
[speaking Portuguese]
346
00:21:17,401 --> 00:21:19,486
- Probably, I changed life
of Garrett, too.
347
00:21:19,569 --> 00:21:21,238
[laughs]
348
00:21:21,321 --> 00:21:23,573
[suspenseful ambient music]
349
00:21:23,657 --> 00:21:25,492
- Lino's wherever
he wants to be,
350
00:21:25,575 --> 00:21:29,705
his role is king of the harbor,
and Lino is everywhere.
351
00:21:37,796 --> 00:21:41,216
We buy new boats,
we buy new Jet Skis.
352
00:21:41,299 --> 00:21:42,759
Some athletes arrive,
353
00:21:42,843 --> 00:21:44,469
and do I have money
for the Jet Ski,
354
00:21:44,553 --> 00:21:48,682
and we share our Jet Skis,
we make business together.
355
00:21:48,765 --> 00:21:50,142
[indistinct chatter]
356
00:22:00,610 --> 00:22:01,862
Put the guys on the water.
357
00:22:01,945 --> 00:22:03,905
- Lino is
one of those guys that
358
00:22:03,989 --> 00:22:05,824
the first time you see him,
you're like,
359
00:22:05,907 --> 00:22:07,576
a little bit scared, like,
"Whoa."
360
00:22:12,080 --> 00:22:13,040
Okay?
361
00:22:13,123 --> 00:22:15,542
- But then, he's just like
a good person.
362
00:22:15,625 --> 00:22:17,586
Always trying to help.
363
00:22:17,669 --> 00:22:20,297
- [babbles to dog]
[dog barking]
364
00:22:29,514 --> 00:22:32,392
Hey, hey, hey, hey.
[chuckles]
365
00:22:40,817 --> 00:22:42,903
- Who do you know
that's coming over right now?
366
00:22:42,986 --> 00:22:43,904
Who's coming?
367
00:22:51,036 --> 00:22:53,955
[suspenseful orchestral music]
368
00:22:54,039 --> 00:22:55,165
♪ ♪
369
00:22:55,248 --> 00:22:57,042
- So it's October of 2020,
370
00:22:57,125 --> 00:22:59,252
and I can remember
sitting on my couch
371
00:22:59,336 --> 00:23:00,629
and getting this phone call.
372
00:23:00,712 --> 00:23:02,130
It's from Lucas Chumbo.
373
00:23:02,214 --> 00:23:04,091
Says that one
of the biggest swells
374
00:23:04,174 --> 00:23:06,468
of our lifetime's
coming in at Nazaré.
375
00:23:06,551 --> 00:23:09,513
- [speaking Portuguese]
376
00:23:14,434 --> 00:23:17,979
- I was in Desert Point
chasing a super nice swell,
377
00:23:18,063 --> 00:23:19,523
and my phone start ringing.
378
00:23:19,606 --> 00:23:20,816
[imitates phone buzzing]
379
00:23:20,899 --> 00:23:25,278
And, like, there was Lucas
and Michelle.
380
00:23:25,362 --> 00:23:28,281
- [speaking Portuguese]
381
00:23:59,437 --> 00:24:00,897
You good?
Good to see you.
382
00:24:12,325 --> 00:24:13,660
- How's it going, nasty?
- Good, good.
383
00:24:13,743 --> 00:24:14,703
- Good?
- Yeah.
384
00:24:14,786 --> 00:24:16,872
Another huge swell at Nazaré.
385
00:24:16,955 --> 00:24:19,708
It's like,
"Oh, so much adrenaline."
386
00:24:19,791 --> 00:24:21,668
And it's pretty amazing.
Good to be back.
387
00:24:21,751 --> 00:24:25,172
[speaking Portuguese]
388
00:24:25,255 --> 00:24:28,049
- Well, I woke up at 5:00
this morning and it was fog.
389
00:24:28,133 --> 00:24:30,760
From the hotel, you couldn't
even see the lighthouse.
390
00:24:30,844 --> 00:24:31,887
It's gonna be really big.
391
00:24:31,970 --> 00:24:33,889
It's gonna be interesting
to see
392
00:24:33,972 --> 00:24:34,890
how big it actually gets.
393
00:24:34,973 --> 00:24:37,100
I hope it just doesn't
peak at night.
394
00:24:40,604 --> 00:24:42,731
♪ ♪
395
00:24:45,984 --> 00:24:48,862
- [laughing]
'Cause I got old, man.
396
00:24:48,945 --> 00:24:50,405
♪ ♪
397
00:24:50,488 --> 00:24:53,617
- Now, say you love surfing
more than anything,
398
00:24:53,700 --> 00:24:56,786
but surfing for you
somewhat ended,
399
00:24:56,870 --> 00:24:58,205
then you pick up a camera
400
00:24:58,288 --> 00:24:59,414
and you're right there
in the water
401
00:24:59,497 --> 00:25:01,416
and you're in the game,
you're in the ocean,
402
00:25:01,500 --> 00:25:04,252
you're right there
with all your friends.
403
00:25:04,336 --> 00:25:05,420
Well, like Laurent.
404
00:25:05,503 --> 00:25:06,922
For him, it's for sure
405
00:25:07,005 --> 00:25:09,341
just like trying
to get that best wave.
406
00:25:09,424 --> 00:25:11,301
He's trying to get
that best shot.
407
00:25:11,384 --> 00:25:14,262
[jet engine whirring]
- Oh, here we go.
408
00:25:14,346 --> 00:25:16,473
Here we go.
- [chuckles]
409
00:25:16,556 --> 00:25:18,266
That's one--
this is the shot I like.
410
00:25:18,350 --> 00:25:19,267
Look.
How big is that wave?
411
00:25:19,351 --> 00:25:20,769
Look at this guy on the right
charging it.
412
00:25:20,852 --> 00:25:23,355
Oh, he pearled!
413
00:25:23,438 --> 00:25:24,564
See?
Now, watch this.
414
00:25:24,648 --> 00:25:27,567
Like, the lip hit and I watch
the lip bounce from it.
415
00:25:27,651 --> 00:25:29,402
This is when you know
it's a gnarly wave,
416
00:25:29,486 --> 00:25:32,405
when that lip bounce
comes out of the frame.
417
00:25:32,489 --> 00:25:35,242
Yeah, I'm stoked on that one.
418
00:25:35,325 --> 00:25:36,576
Here's a good spot to be,
419
00:25:36,660 --> 00:25:37,744
because you're away
from all that shit.
420
00:25:37,827 --> 00:25:39,579
You can see it all, you know?
421
00:25:39,663 --> 00:25:42,832
You can see the first peak
really well from here, also.
422
00:25:42,916 --> 00:25:46,127
There's a lot of guys
shooting waves these days.
423
00:25:46,211 --> 00:25:48,171
Everybody wants a piece of it.
424
00:25:48,255 --> 00:25:50,215
[drone whirring]
425
00:25:50,298 --> 00:25:53,343
- Here we go. We're surfing.
426
00:25:53,426 --> 00:25:56,304
My family,
we're all born at Nazaré.
427
00:25:56,388 --> 00:25:58,556
We are all 100% locals.
428
00:25:58,640 --> 00:25:59,724
[electronic beep]
429
00:25:59,808 --> 00:26:02,811
After the boom here at Nazaré,
I actually thought,
430
00:26:02,894 --> 00:26:05,814
"Hey, I could have a shot
at that."
431
00:26:05,897 --> 00:26:07,941
♪ ♪
432
00:26:08,024 --> 00:26:09,276
- Joao's starting to, like,
433
00:26:09,359 --> 00:26:11,278
really get good at his drone,
man.
434
00:26:11,361 --> 00:26:12,612
He's super low.
435
00:26:12,696 --> 00:26:15,115
He's getting
some really cool shots.
436
00:26:15,198 --> 00:26:17,742
- When I get really close
to the surfer
437
00:26:17,826 --> 00:26:20,453
and you can see
the expression of the surfer,
438
00:26:20,537 --> 00:26:23,123
you can see the water moving,
439
00:26:23,206 --> 00:26:27,836
it's a totally different way
of shooting waves.
440
00:26:27,919 --> 00:26:31,423
Whoo! What a rush, man.
441
00:26:31,506 --> 00:26:33,174
Man, it's just like surfing.
442
00:26:33,258 --> 00:26:35,385
I think about it when I'm up
443
00:26:35,468 --> 00:26:37,345
and think about it
when I'm asleep.
444
00:26:37,429 --> 00:26:44,394
♪ ♪
445
00:26:45,562 --> 00:26:48,440
[suspenseful orchestral music]
446
00:26:48,523 --> 00:26:54,154
♪ ♪
447
00:26:54,237 --> 00:26:56,823
- [speaks French]
448
00:26:56,906 --> 00:26:58,491
♪ ♪
449
00:27:28,188 --> 00:27:29,898
- [speaking French]
450
00:27:40,950 --> 00:27:41,951
[blows raspberry]
451
00:27:55,298 --> 00:27:58,968
♪ ♪
452
00:27:59,052 --> 00:28:01,471
[music fades]
453
00:28:03,473 --> 00:28:04,933
[indistinct chatter]
454
00:28:34,504 --> 00:28:37,924
[suspenseful music]
455
00:28:38,007 --> 00:28:40,468
[walkie talkie chimes]
- You there?
456
00:28:40,552 --> 00:28:41,636
Hi, Theia.
457
00:28:41,719 --> 00:28:44,013
- Testing!
[giggles]
458
00:28:44,097 --> 00:28:45,640
- We're testing something.
459
00:28:45,723 --> 00:28:47,308
- Listen, because of corona,
460
00:28:47,392 --> 00:28:49,853
they're not gonna
let you up on the lighthouse.
461
00:28:49,936 --> 00:28:50,854
Okay?
462
00:28:50,937 --> 00:28:53,815
And Mommy has to go make sure
Daddy stays safe
463
00:28:53,898 --> 00:28:56,276
so that he can come home.
464
00:28:56,359 --> 00:28:57,277
Okay?
465
00:28:57,360 --> 00:29:00,780
- [cries loudly]
466
00:29:00,864 --> 00:29:03,783
[waves crashing]
467
00:29:03,867 --> 00:29:05,785
♪ ♪
468
00:29:05,869 --> 00:29:08,163
- Fuck, I've been looking
at this far too much.
469
00:29:08,246 --> 00:29:09,414
They only update
every four hours.
470
00:29:09,497 --> 00:29:12,459
I check it, like,
20 times every four hours,
471
00:29:12,542 --> 00:29:15,462
looking at the same stuff.
472
00:29:15,545 --> 00:29:18,089
A storm like this might never
happen again, know what?
473
00:29:18,173 --> 00:29:20,467
Yeah, it can be
another ten years.
474
00:29:20,550 --> 00:29:22,719
You spend, like, years
and years wanting something,
475
00:29:22,802 --> 00:29:25,680
and then it gets to the day
and it's like, "Fuck."
476
00:29:25,763 --> 00:29:26,681
[chuckles]
477
00:29:26,764 --> 00:29:28,224
It's like,
"Fuck, did I really want this?"
478
00:29:28,308 --> 00:29:30,059
♪ ♪
479
00:29:30,143 --> 00:29:34,147
- I'm ready to go.
Just waiting the waves.
480
00:29:34,230 --> 00:29:35,815
Super excited for that, though.
481
00:29:35,899 --> 00:29:39,486
I think we're gonna have, like,
a 100-foot wave, maybe.
482
00:29:39,569 --> 00:29:41,112
I don't know. Let's see.
483
00:29:41,196 --> 00:29:45,283
We are keeping looking
the waves all the time.
484
00:29:45,366 --> 00:29:47,368
- Oh, my gosh.
485
00:29:47,452 --> 00:29:50,497
Jesus. Oh, my gosh.
486
00:29:50,580 --> 00:29:51,706
[waves crashing]
487
00:29:51,789 --> 00:29:55,585
It's breaking, like,
a mile out to sea.
488
00:29:55,668 --> 00:29:58,004
[engine revving]
489
00:29:58,087 --> 00:30:00,215
- I feel confident
for tomorrow.
490
00:30:00,298 --> 00:30:03,843
I have, like, a lot of energy
and anxiety
491
00:30:03,927 --> 00:30:06,054
to catch, like,
a good wave tomorrow.
492
00:30:06,137 --> 00:30:07,013
Like, a really big one.
493
00:30:07,096 --> 00:30:09,057
Maybe--maybe the biggest
of my life.
494
00:30:09,140 --> 00:30:10,058
We don't know.
495
00:30:10,141 --> 00:30:11,434
[chuckles]
We'll see.
496
00:30:11,518 --> 00:30:14,354
♪ ♪
497
00:30:14,437 --> 00:30:17,774
- We could see the waves, like,
from everywhere.
498
00:30:17,857 --> 00:30:21,444
It was, like, totally visible
from all the sides of Nazaré.
499
00:30:26,574 --> 00:30:28,368
- I couldn't sleep for a while.
500
00:30:28,451 --> 00:30:30,411
I was still
with Indonesian time, like,
501
00:30:30,495 --> 00:30:34,040
my head was freaking out
with the size of the waves.
502
00:30:38,545 --> 00:30:39,963
- [speaking Portuguese]
503
00:30:51,057 --> 00:30:53,977
[upbeat suspenseful music]
504
00:30:54,060 --> 00:31:00,942
♪ ♪
505
00:31:01,025 --> 00:31:05,738
- Yeah, just making homemade
burritos for lunch today.
506
00:31:05,822 --> 00:31:07,574
I don't know if you guys
heard it out there,
507
00:31:07,657 --> 00:31:11,619
but, um, I walked out,
508
00:31:11,703 --> 00:31:13,538
and all of a sudden,
I could feel the ground
509
00:31:13,621 --> 00:31:16,916
on one wave just go boom,
I was like, "That's big."
510
00:31:38,896 --> 00:31:42,066
[droning ominous music]
511
00:31:42,150 --> 00:31:49,115
♪ ♪
512
00:32:10,928 --> 00:32:13,890
[suspenseful percussive music]
513
00:32:13,973 --> 00:32:15,850
♪ ♪
514
00:32:15,933 --> 00:32:17,810
- Ready.
515
00:32:17,894 --> 00:32:24,817
♪ ♪
516
00:32:52,929 --> 00:32:57,892
- You don't usually get
a swell that size in October.
517
00:32:57,975 --> 00:33:00,228
You couldn't ask for more
to start the season.
518
00:33:01,813 --> 00:33:04,190
- You know, the hype
of this swell was so intense.
519
00:33:04,273 --> 00:33:06,234
It was the biggest swell ever.
520
00:33:06,317 --> 00:33:09,904
Maybe the 100-foot wave
was gonna be living today.
521
00:33:09,987 --> 00:33:11,239
♪ ♪
522
00:33:11,322 --> 00:33:13,366
- Sebastian got a bomb.
523
00:33:13,449 --> 00:33:16,494
I wouldn't be surprised
if that's a new world record,
524
00:33:16,577 --> 00:33:18,621
'cause you really get
the canyon effect
525
00:33:18,705 --> 00:33:21,874
and you went to the bottom,
real deep, and bottom turn,
526
00:33:21,958 --> 00:33:24,085
and that thing is--
that thing's huge.
527
00:33:28,172 --> 00:33:31,426
[cheers and applause]
528
00:33:31,509 --> 00:33:33,511
[light orchestral music]
529
00:33:47,984 --> 00:33:52,572
- I told Lucas in one of
the biggest waves I ever seen,
530
00:33:52,655 --> 00:33:54,699
it was massive.
531
00:33:54,782 --> 00:33:56,743
I look at him and I say,
"Hey, what do you want?"
532
00:33:56,826 --> 00:33:58,786
And he said,
"Yeah, I want it, I want it,"
533
00:33:58,870 --> 00:34:00,913
so I speed up
as much as I could.
534
00:34:00,997 --> 00:34:02,915
I slingshot him.
535
00:34:17,263 --> 00:34:20,183
[soaring orchestral music]
536
00:34:20,266 --> 00:34:27,190
♪ ♪
537
00:34:31,194 --> 00:34:34,113
[cheers and applause]
538
00:34:34,197 --> 00:34:40,328
♪ ♪
539
00:34:40,411 --> 00:34:41,996
- As soon as he got out
of the wave,
540
00:34:42,079 --> 00:34:43,581
the cliff was like,
"[imitates crowd cheering]"
541
00:34:43,664 --> 00:34:46,417
Everybody screaming.
[cheers and applause]
542
00:34:50,922 --> 00:34:52,548
[cheers and applause]
543
00:35:01,474 --> 00:35:03,684
♪ ♪
544
00:35:03,768 --> 00:35:05,812
- I think it was
the most amount of people
545
00:35:05,895 --> 00:35:07,188
ever on the cliff.
546
00:35:07,271 --> 00:35:09,649
You know?
Like, it was insane.
547
00:35:09,732 --> 00:35:10,775
- I've been out there
pretty much
548
00:35:10,858 --> 00:35:12,026
every swell
the last three years.
549
00:35:12,109 --> 00:35:14,028
More people
than I've ever seen.
550
00:35:14,111 --> 00:35:17,073
I think because it was COVID
and everybody was locked down
551
00:35:17,156 --> 00:35:19,158
and nobody's working
and everybody's just like,
552
00:35:19,242 --> 00:35:20,785
"Shoot,
I'm going to the beach."
553
00:35:24,580 --> 00:35:26,999
[waves crashing]
554
00:35:30,795 --> 00:35:32,713
- Can you give me
your relative location?
555
00:35:38,553 --> 00:35:42,014
- It's almost impossible
to keep eyes on you guys.
556
00:35:42,098 --> 00:35:44,225
[suspenseful ambient music]
557
00:35:44,308 --> 00:35:45,726
♪ ♪
558
00:35:45,810 --> 00:35:48,563
- I think it, like,
surprised everyone
559
00:35:48,646 --> 00:35:51,232
how many people turned up
in October.
560
00:35:51,315 --> 00:35:53,442
That many Jet Skis,
that many people,
561
00:35:53,526 --> 00:35:55,528
and everyone's hungry,
you know?
562
00:35:55,611 --> 00:35:58,030
Like, everyone wants it.
563
00:35:58,114 --> 00:36:01,993
- A lot of guys, they wanted
to break the Guinness record,
564
00:36:02,076 --> 00:36:05,413
so every single wave
that was huge--
565
00:36:05,496 --> 00:36:09,166
with, like, four Jet Skis,
five Jet Skis,
566
00:36:09,250 --> 00:36:11,002
six Jet Skis.
567
00:36:13,004 --> 00:36:14,755
[suspenseful upbeat music]
568
00:36:14,839 --> 00:36:15,882
- For me and Cotty,
569
00:36:15,965 --> 00:36:17,758
we kinda just stuck
to our own, little thing
570
00:36:17,842 --> 00:36:19,218
and did what we wanted to do
571
00:36:19,302 --> 00:36:22,263
and we were very patient,
we got our goals set.
572
00:36:27,393 --> 00:36:28,853
♪ ♪
573
00:36:28,936 --> 00:36:32,064
- Cotty was super focused,
had a good plan.
574
00:36:32,148 --> 00:36:35,693
He just wanted to get
one good, big right
575
00:36:35,776 --> 00:36:37,987
is what he was hoping for.
576
00:36:38,070 --> 00:36:39,906
And we waited
and waited and waited
577
00:36:39,989 --> 00:36:42,450
and finally, one came.
578
00:36:42,533 --> 00:36:49,415
♪ ♪
579
00:36:49,498 --> 00:36:52,418
It was a big one.
It was a challenging ride.
580
00:36:52,501 --> 00:36:53,794
He could barely
stay on the board.
581
00:36:53,878 --> 00:36:56,839
He said he was going faster
than he's ever gone.
582
00:36:56,923 --> 00:36:59,926
♪ ♪
583
00:37:00,009 --> 00:37:05,097
- We were doing speeds of,
like, 75 kilometers an hour.
584
00:37:05,181 --> 00:37:06,474
It felt good.
585
00:37:06,557 --> 00:37:09,435
Like, the speed,
the sensation.
586
00:37:09,518 --> 00:37:13,105
[cheers and applause]
587
00:37:13,189 --> 00:37:15,107
♪ ♪
588
00:37:15,191 --> 00:37:16,984
Didn't fall off.
[laughs]
589
00:37:17,068 --> 00:37:19,236
You know, and it felt amazing.
590
00:37:19,320 --> 00:37:21,239
Whoo!
[laughs]
591
00:37:21,322 --> 00:37:23,157
- That thing was huge, huh?
592
00:37:23,240 --> 00:37:24,158
- Yeah!
593
00:37:24,241 --> 00:37:25,284
- Good wave!
594
00:37:25,368 --> 00:37:27,620
- [muffled speech].
- Right, yeah!
595
00:37:27,703 --> 00:37:29,288
[cheering]
596
00:37:29,372 --> 00:37:31,791
- It's Christmas!
597
00:37:31,874 --> 00:37:34,835
There hadn't been this big
of a day in quite a while...
598
00:37:34,919 --> 00:37:36,212
Whoo!
599
00:37:36,295 --> 00:37:37,630
Whoo!
600
00:37:37,713 --> 00:37:39,340
So there was
all this chatter around
601
00:37:39,423 --> 00:37:41,467
"Guinness Book
of World Records" this, like,
602
00:37:41,550 --> 00:37:43,094
biggest wave ever ridden.
603
00:37:43,177 --> 00:37:44,470
People were going out there
with that reason,
604
00:37:44,553 --> 00:37:48,599
and I never surfed big waves
till I try to go win awards
605
00:37:48,683 --> 00:37:51,727
or try to get
the tallest wave.
606
00:37:51,811 --> 00:37:55,147
It's more like I want
to focus on my performance.
607
00:37:55,231 --> 00:37:58,317
- Kai was just on fire.
Unstoppable.
608
00:37:58,401 --> 00:38:01,112
Just--he can do anything
he wants on the waves.
609
00:38:01,195 --> 00:38:03,531
He's a machine.
610
00:38:03,614 --> 00:38:07,159
- Since Kai arrived at Nazaré
for the first time,
611
00:38:07,243 --> 00:38:08,494
everything changed.
612
00:38:08,577 --> 00:38:10,538
Yeah, completely.
613
00:38:10,621 --> 00:38:14,542
He's making heads spin...
[laughs]
614
00:38:14,625 --> 00:38:16,043
With his approach.
615
00:38:16,127 --> 00:38:21,549
It's a very aggressive
and high-performance way
616
00:38:21,632 --> 00:38:23,092
of approaching a wave,
617
00:38:23,175 --> 00:38:26,929
which people
were just not ready to see.
618
00:38:27,013 --> 00:38:29,932
♪ ♪
619
00:38:30,016 --> 00:38:33,811
- Kai Lenny with
the huge airs, with the 360s,
620
00:38:33,894 --> 00:38:36,605
for me, it's the best guy
from that day.
621
00:38:49,160 --> 00:38:53,080
- Those performances,
you know, like Kai and Lucas,
622
00:38:53,164 --> 00:38:55,374
it's what you dreamed about
as a kid.
623
00:38:55,458 --> 00:38:57,460
You know,
it's a computer game.
624
00:38:57,543 --> 00:38:58,919
You know,
you have to be super confident
625
00:38:59,003 --> 00:39:02,590
to be busting airs
on 60-foot waves.
626
00:39:02,673 --> 00:39:04,633
If I had the skills to do it,
I'd definitely be doing it.
627
00:39:04,717 --> 00:39:05,968
[laughs]
628
00:39:06,052 --> 00:39:09,930
♪ ♪
629
00:39:10,014 --> 00:39:12,099
- After catching
a ton of big waves,
630
00:39:12,183 --> 00:39:13,184
I decided, "All right,
631
00:39:13,267 --> 00:39:16,729
let me try to do something
different here."
632
00:39:16,812 --> 00:39:17,730
Whoo!
633
00:39:17,813 --> 00:39:19,065
And so I had my pull
with a GoPro
634
00:39:19,148 --> 00:39:23,277
to show someone what it's like
to ride this giant wave.
635
00:39:23,360 --> 00:39:25,404
Which way? Left? Yeah.
636
00:39:25,488 --> 00:39:28,407
[soaring choral music]
637
00:39:28,491 --> 00:39:33,412
♪ ♪
638
00:39:33,496 --> 00:39:35,373
So I ended up
dropping into this wave
639
00:39:35,456 --> 00:39:37,166
and it was really bumpy
and I'm like,
640
00:39:37,249 --> 00:39:39,168
you know, I thought everything
was fine
641
00:39:39,251 --> 00:39:41,128
and the wave ended up flaring
642
00:39:41,212 --> 00:39:43,964
and, like shooting out
and just eating me.
643
00:39:44,048 --> 00:39:51,013
♪ ♪
644
00:39:52,723 --> 00:39:54,975
I remember falling underwater
and being like, "Oh, my gosh.
645
00:39:55,059 --> 00:39:58,020
Well, at least the shot's gonna
be really cool," you know?
646
00:39:58,104 --> 00:39:59,980
The water shooting out
over me?
647
00:40:00,064 --> 00:40:07,071
♪ ♪
648
00:40:12,743 --> 00:40:14,453
I remember popping up
and being like,
649
00:40:14,537 --> 00:40:16,330
"All right,
I'm ready for the pickup,"
650
00:40:16,413 --> 00:40:19,792
and just Lucas going
the opposite direction.
651
00:40:19,875 --> 00:40:22,837
[ominous choral music]
652
00:40:22,920 --> 00:40:24,547
♪ ♪
653
00:40:24,630 --> 00:40:26,048
And in the video,
you can see me going, "Hey!"
654
00:40:26,132 --> 00:40:28,050
Hey, hey!
655
00:40:28,134 --> 00:40:29,885
Hey!
Hey!
656
00:40:29,969 --> 00:40:32,346
And I was like, just trying
to get anyone's attention.
657
00:40:32,429 --> 00:40:33,681
It was like,
"Hey, I just want to make sure
658
00:40:33,764 --> 00:40:34,974
"you know where I'm at
659
00:40:35,057 --> 00:40:38,394
so you can track me when I get
dragged 100 yards underwater."
660
00:40:38,477 --> 00:40:41,856
♪ ♪
661
00:40:41,939 --> 00:40:44,525
And I can remember, "Okay,
here comes another wave."
662
00:40:44,608 --> 00:40:47,027
Like--
[breathing nervously]
663
00:40:47,111 --> 00:40:51,824
♪ ♪
664
00:40:51,907 --> 00:40:54,535
I got so violated underwater.
665
00:40:56,704 --> 00:40:58,414
And so the one driving force
666
00:40:58,497 --> 00:41:02,168
to get me through that
experience was literally like,
667
00:41:02,251 --> 00:41:04,336
"All right,
stick the camera up high!
668
00:41:04,420 --> 00:41:06,046
Really get it!"
You know?
669
00:41:06,130 --> 00:41:07,006
Like, own it.
670
00:41:07,089 --> 00:41:08,716
And I was trying
to stay above surface
671
00:41:08,799 --> 00:41:11,427
as long as I could before
the next wave would land on me
672
00:41:11,510 --> 00:41:13,179
'cause I wanted the wave
to get as close as possible
673
00:41:13,262 --> 00:41:14,513
to get the shot.
674
00:41:14,597 --> 00:41:15,973
And I'm kind of
removing myself
675
00:41:16,056 --> 00:41:20,436
from the horror
of that experience.
676
00:41:20,519 --> 00:41:21,854
And then there was a huge one
677
00:41:21,937 --> 00:41:24,356
that was just absolutely
the worst.
678
00:41:26,442 --> 00:41:29,403
[ominous music]
679
00:41:29,486 --> 00:41:34,033
♪ ♪
680
00:41:34,116 --> 00:41:35,201
[laughing]
And I remember just getting
681
00:41:35,284 --> 00:41:37,036
so pounded, pulverized,
682
00:41:37,119 --> 00:41:39,163
oh, the GoPro's starting
to slip out of my hands,
683
00:41:39,246 --> 00:41:40,915
and then I popped up
and I'm like,
684
00:41:40,998 --> 00:41:42,625
"Please, someone,
just pick me up."
685
00:41:42,708 --> 00:41:44,960
And then I saw Sebastian
come zooming in.
686
00:41:45,044 --> 00:41:47,129
I just was like,
"Hey! I'm over here!"
687
00:41:47,213 --> 00:41:48,589
Oh, fuck!
688
00:41:48,672 --> 00:41:51,592
[soaring choral music]
689
00:41:51,675 --> 00:41:55,095
♪ ♪
690
00:41:55,179 --> 00:41:58,140
[engine revving]
691
00:42:00,935 --> 00:42:02,811
Holy shit!
692
00:42:02,895 --> 00:42:04,855
Thank you so much!
693
00:42:04,939 --> 00:42:07,399
Oh, I got so fucking pounded,
dude.
694
00:42:07,483 --> 00:42:09,568
- Really?
- Ah!
695
00:42:09,652 --> 00:42:10,569
♪ ♪
696
00:42:10,653 --> 00:42:13,822
[suspenseful orchestral music]
697
00:42:25,793 --> 00:42:29,296
- There's not enough waves
for everyone,
698
00:42:29,380 --> 00:42:34,093
so there was definitely
some tension in the water.
699
00:42:34,176 --> 00:42:36,512
- The biggest wave of the day
comes once.
700
00:42:36,595 --> 00:42:39,807
♪ ♪
701
00:42:39,890 --> 00:42:42,142
- We were in the middle
of the pandemic, you know.
702
00:42:42,226 --> 00:42:44,436
People were scared
during that time.
703
00:42:44,520 --> 00:42:47,147
Now you have these big,
scary waves coming,
704
00:42:47,231 --> 00:42:50,359
so I think it just, you know,
increased everybody's, like,
705
00:42:50,442 --> 00:42:52,945
fear and survival mode.
706
00:42:53,028 --> 00:42:55,447
♪ ♪
707
00:43:08,752 --> 00:43:10,963
The wave is passing you
and you're still on the rope,
708
00:43:11,046 --> 00:43:12,548
and, "Come on, Fred! Go, go!"
709
00:43:12,631 --> 00:43:14,883
I remember, like,
screaming at Fred.
710
00:43:14,967 --> 00:43:17,803
Like, "Go, go, go faster,
go faster!
711
00:43:30,566 --> 00:43:33,610
- I did have my eye on Fred
and Justine here and there,
712
00:43:33,694 --> 00:43:37,156
and I noticed that they were
kind of struggling.
713
00:43:37,239 --> 00:43:39,742
Either somebody would come
behind them and take the wave
714
00:43:39,825 --> 00:43:41,952
or they would go for
the wrong wave.
715
00:43:42,036 --> 00:43:45,164
It just didn't seem like
they were in sync.
716
00:44:08,020 --> 00:44:10,898
- We were starting to argue,
and, like,
717
00:44:10,981 --> 00:44:11,857
"Yeah, let's stop it."
718
00:44:11,940 --> 00:44:14,902
Like,
"We're not here to argue."
719
00:44:14,985 --> 00:44:17,863
But then, I see Garrett.
720
00:44:17,946 --> 00:44:19,365
I'm like, "Hey, Garrett.
721
00:44:19,448 --> 00:44:20,657
Do you mind, like,
putting Justine on some waves?"
722
00:44:20,741 --> 00:44:22,826
And Justine was like,
"What the fuck?"
723
00:44:48,477 --> 00:44:50,479
- You guys are farthest out,
correct?
724
00:44:55,025 --> 00:44:58,362
- It's pretty big and
it's coming in on the north.
725
00:44:58,445 --> 00:45:00,906
It's actually huge.
726
00:45:00,989 --> 00:45:03,909
[soaring orchestral music]
727
00:45:03,992 --> 00:45:10,958
♪ ♪
728
00:45:31,562 --> 00:45:35,274
- Garrett put her, like,
exactly at the right spot.
729
00:45:35,357 --> 00:45:39,111
Justine's boyfriend, Fred,
is a really good driver,
730
00:45:39,194 --> 00:45:41,613
but we cannot compare
731
00:45:41,697 --> 00:45:44,575
with Garrett's experience
at this place.
732
00:45:44,658 --> 00:45:46,785
♪ ♪
733
00:45:46,869 --> 00:45:49,580
- It's a real pleasure
putting her on waves,
734
00:45:49,663 --> 00:45:51,790
'cause she's
such a good surfer.
735
00:45:51,874 --> 00:45:54,168
Everything just fell in place.
736
00:45:54,251 --> 00:45:56,003
She just rolled down
this monster.
737
00:45:56,086 --> 00:45:58,380
It was amazing.
She rode it so well.
738
00:45:58,464 --> 00:46:00,340
♪ ♪
739
00:46:00,424 --> 00:46:03,427
- I really love Justine.
I think she's awesome.
740
00:46:03,510 --> 00:46:04,511
I'm glad she got that wave,
741
00:46:04,595 --> 00:46:06,763
and I'm glad
Garrett put her on it.
742
00:46:32,915 --> 00:46:34,791
- When I was watching Justine
on the Ski,
743
00:46:34,875 --> 00:46:36,210
I was like,
744
00:46:36,293 --> 00:46:38,837
"[exhales] I'm nervous.
It's really big."
745
00:46:52,601 --> 00:46:54,478
[soaring orchestral music]
746
00:46:54,561 --> 00:46:59,274
- My first wave,
I was going too fast.
747
00:46:59,358 --> 00:47:02,027
That is like a huge wipeout.
748
00:47:02,110 --> 00:47:04,863
I got really pounded.
749
00:47:04,947 --> 00:47:06,156
I came to the surface
750
00:47:06,240 --> 00:47:07,866
and my dad was looking
for me like
751
00:47:07,950 --> 00:47:11,078
with eyes like this, like,
"Where is he?"
752
00:47:22,673 --> 00:47:25,842
- I was like, "Okay,
now I need to catch a wave."
753
00:47:46,488 --> 00:47:48,865
- My father look at me
and was like,
754
00:47:48,949 --> 00:47:50,576
"So do you wanna go
on this one?"
755
00:47:50,659 --> 00:47:53,161
I was like,
"Yeah, sure. Let's go."
756
00:48:16,226 --> 00:48:19,021
I was so fast, I was
going straight to the rocks.
757
00:48:19,104 --> 00:48:21,231
I saw two Skis passing
in front of me,
758
00:48:21,315 --> 00:48:24,901
and I was like, "Okay,
if I fell here, I'm dead."
759
00:48:24,985 --> 00:48:29,615
I just needed to go straight
and survive.
760
00:48:29,698 --> 00:48:32,951
[dramatic orchestral flourish]
761
00:48:33,035 --> 00:48:34,995
[wave crashing]
762
00:48:35,078 --> 00:48:42,085
♪ ♪
763
00:48:45,255 --> 00:48:46,798
Going down that wave,
764
00:48:46,882 --> 00:48:48,550
I don't have a word
to describe.
765
00:48:48,634 --> 00:48:51,470
It was like helpless
with adrenaline
766
00:48:51,553 --> 00:48:54,014
with fear and everything
together.
767
00:48:55,849 --> 00:48:57,184
When I finished the wave,
768
00:48:57,267 --> 00:48:59,186
I heard everyone
on the lighthouse, like,
769
00:48:59,269 --> 00:49:02,189
just cheering and screaming.
770
00:49:07,694 --> 00:49:08,820
- On that day,
771
00:49:08,904 --> 00:49:11,865
he really
took the biggest wave
772
00:49:11,948 --> 00:49:14,993
of his life, for sure.
773
00:49:15,077 --> 00:49:18,705
I remember he's
coming out of the wave like...
774
00:49:18,789 --> 00:49:23,418
you could see his heart coming
out of his chest on that wave.
775
00:49:23,502 --> 00:49:26,505
- I was just like
the happiest guy on Earth.
776
00:49:26,588 --> 00:49:29,591
Like, I did it.
777
00:49:29,675 --> 00:49:36,682
♪ ♪
778
00:49:49,486 --> 00:49:51,321
[indistinct radio chatter]
779
00:50:08,839 --> 00:50:11,925
- We were like,
"Okay, it's a sign. It's over."
780
00:50:17,264 --> 00:50:20,142
[energetic rhythmic music]
781
00:50:20,225 --> 00:50:27,190
♪ ♪
782
00:50:44,541 --> 00:50:47,502
[Philip Glass' "Knee Play 1"]
783
00:50:47,586 --> 00:50:54,593
♪ ♪
784
00:50:55,427 --> 00:50:57,471
- ♪ 1, 2, 3, 4 ♪
785
00:50:57,554 --> 00:51:00,724
♪ 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 ♪
786
00:51:00,807 --> 00:51:05,020
♪ 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8 ♪
787
00:51:05,103 --> 00:51:07,272
♪ 1, 2, 3, 4 ♪
788
00:51:07,355 --> 00:51:09,274
- ♪ Will it get some wind
for the sailboat ♪
789
00:51:09,357 --> 00:51:13,403
- ♪ 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 ♪
- ♪ And it could get those ♪
790
00:51:13,487 --> 00:51:14,488
♪ For it is were ♪
- ♪ 7, 8 ♪
791
00:51:14,571 --> 00:51:16,740
- ♪ 1, 2, 3, 4 ♪
- ♪ It could be franky ♪
792
00:51:16,823 --> 00:51:19,993
- ♪ 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 ♪
- ♪ It could be franky ♪
793
00:51:20,076 --> 00:51:21,328
- ♪ 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 ♪
794
00:51:21,411 --> 00:51:24,122
- ♪ It could be very fresh
and clean ♪
795
00:51:24,206 --> 00:51:26,416
- ♪ 1, 2, 3, 4 ♪
- ♪ It could be a balloon ♪
796
00:51:26,500 --> 00:51:29,795
- ♪ 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 ♪
797
00:51:29,878 --> 00:51:33,548
- ♪ All these are the days,
my friends ♪
798
00:51:33,632 --> 00:51:34,549
- ♪ 1, 2, 3, 4 ♪
799
00:51:34,633 --> 00:51:36,343
- ♪ These are the days,
my friends ♪
800
00:51:36,426 --> 00:51:38,845
- ♪ 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 ♪
801
00:51:38,929 --> 00:51:43,058
♪ 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8 ♪
802
00:51:43,141 --> 00:51:45,727
♪ 1, 2, 3, 4 ♪
803
00:51:45,811 --> 00:51:48,355
♪ 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 ♪
804
00:51:48,438 --> 00:51:52,359
♪ 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8 ♪
805
00:51:52,442 --> 00:51:54,694
- ♪ Will it get some wind
for the sailboat ♪
806
00:51:54,778 --> 00:51:57,781
- ♪ 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 ♪
807
00:51:57,864 --> 00:52:00,992
- ♪ Will it get some wind?
- ♪ 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 ♪
808
00:52:01,076 --> 00:52:03,078
[bright tone]
56693
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