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I am on the final leg of
my journey through Italy,
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exploring the country's loveliest
and most significant gardens
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and the ideas and history that shaped them.
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I have visited gardens
that defy interpretation.
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It's like a child going, "Grrrr!"
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And I've seen others whose
message couldn't be clearer.
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I've seen how the formality of
the Renaissance was replaced
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by a much more natural,
romantic style in the south.
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Oh, it feels nice.
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This time, I'm in the wealthy north, where
the profits of trade were spent on making
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elaborate gardens, which became
pleasure grounds for gentry at play.
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Oh, dead end. You've got me.
Now have your wicked way!
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I'll discover how newly-introduced
species helped lay the foundations
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of botany and medicine in Italy.
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And see how this influx of
plants from across the world
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created gardens of high theatre.
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Fantastic!
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The north is by far the
wealthiest part of Italy.
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500 years ago, it was one of the richest
and most powerful regions in Europe,
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with highly productive agricultural land
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and well-established commercial
links across the world.
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The north of Italy is where most of the
trade has taken place from early times.
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And a lot of that trade has been in plants,
particularly in the 16th and 17th century
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where they poured in
from all over the world.
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They were studied extensively
for their medical use,
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agricultural possibilities and,
of course, just their beauty.
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So I shall be looking in particular
in this trip at how plants,
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rather than politics or design,
have shaped their gardens.
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The influences that helped
define the gardens in the north
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were quite different to the rest of Italy
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and they take us from the 16th
century right up to the present day.
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The principle garden makers
of the Veneto and of Lucca
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were the hugely prosperous merchants.
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And their creations celebrate their own
existence with undisguised pleasure.
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Further north, the lakes
provide a dramatic setting
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and a benign microclimate to display
collections of plants from all over the world.
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From the early medieval period,
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the crucial centre of Northern Italy's wealth
was the independent Republic of Venice.
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As Europe's most important trading hub,
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Venice dominated the critical trade
routes to the East for hundreds of years.
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Ships brought back fabulously
valuable silks, gold and spices,
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and, from the early 16th century, goods and
treasures also began to come in from the Americas.
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Merchants and sailors returned
with unfamiliar plants and fruits
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from as far away as China and Chile.
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Including wildly exotic plants,
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such as the potato
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and the tomato.
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- Grazie.
- Prego.
- Grazie.
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It seems extraordinary to us now,
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when we take tomatoes for
granted, but when they came in,
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they were regarded as this
extraordinary plant which had
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these slightly suspicious-looking
fruits which no-one dreamed of eating.
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They assumed they were poisonous.
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It was ages before someone plucked up the
courage and popped them in their mouth.
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And, of course, now, everywhere
in Italy lives off tomatoes.
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I am in Padua, 50 kilometres
inland from Venice,
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in the wealthy hinterland
of the Venetian republic,
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known as the Veneto.
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Venice has always been the
dominant city of the region,
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but the most significant
garden was made here in Padua.
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The Orto Botanico, made in 1543
as part of Padua University,
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is thought to be the world's
oldest botanical garden.
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Initially, it was set up to
study and collect "simples",
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which is the description which was
then given to medicinal plants.
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The original garden lies behind
this beautiful circular wall.
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But when it was first laid
out, the wall wasn't there.
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And people very quickly cottoned
on to the fact that these plants
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that they were laying in the beds,
were potentially enormously valuable.
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They were medicinal plants,
so if a cure could be found,
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somebody was going to get very rich indeed.
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So people came in and then nicked them
and flogged them at great profit.
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So they put up the wall, so, what you've
got to see is, actually, it's a fortress
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and the purpose of the wall
is to keep people out.
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At the same time that art and architecture were
being transformed in Renaissance Florence,
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scientists were laying the foundations
of modern botany in Padua.
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The Orto Botanico was dedicated
to studying the properties
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of newly-introduced as
well as indigenous plants,
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so that they could be used
safely and effectively.
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This was revolutionary,
because up to that point,
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plant-based remedies had largely
relied on superstition and folklore.
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Most medicine was based on
the doctrine of signatories
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which basically meant that if a plant
looked like an aspect of the human body,
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then it would cure it.
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So, for example, a walnut.
It looks like a brain,
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so it was used to try and
cure diseases of the brain,
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or Pulmonaria, lungwort that we
grow, was used for lung diseases.
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In practice, that killed as
many people as it cured.
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The whole point of the Renaissance
was to explore and discover
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and apply the mind to science.
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So by 1533, when the Chair of
Botany was set up here in Padua,
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they wanted to collect as
many plants as possible,
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not just say, "It looks as though
it will do this", but to find out.
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The head of the Orto Botanico,
Professor Francesco Bonafede,
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realised that the first step towards
understanding medicinal plants
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was to identify and classify
each specimen accurately.
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You know, it's really strange,
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because this is fundamentally
a filing system.
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It's a laboratory, and there is no
attempt to make a beautiful garden,
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the important thing is the
order and the sequence
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and the display of plants so
they can be studied. And yet,
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there's a magic here, there's a real charm.
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You walk in and you're
seduced, it feels wonderful,
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it's the most beautiful garden.
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I know I'm biased, of course.
Of course I'm bound to love it,
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but I defy anybody not to feel that magic.
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As new plants came in, they
were given a specific position
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in an elaborate network of borders.
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To learn how it works, I
met the former prefect,
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Professor Elsa Cappalletti.
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This book was the first
exercise book for students,
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it was a pocket book,
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in which there was the plan of the garden.
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- So this is the plan of the garden here.
- With the four squares.
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Yes.
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In the past, students
had to identify plants
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only observing their shape,
the flowers and so on.
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And then they had to write the
correct name of the plant.
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- Oh, I see. - The identity. Perhaps there was a bella donna.
- OK. - And they had to write,
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"bella donna".
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So if they knew which bed the plant was in,
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- then they would know which plant it was?
- Yes, yes.
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So the pattern was, if you like,
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- an aide to memory as much as anything else?
- Yes, yes.
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It may be a simple system compared
to our electronic wizardry,
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but actually, it's beautifully effective
because you can see how, if a student
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who had studied here, came across a plant in the
field, perhaps on the other side of the world,
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wasn't quite sure what it was,
but they vaguely remembered it,
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all they had to do was think back to where they'd
seen it in this garden, which particular bed.
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And because each bed only had one
plant, they'd hone in on that,
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look up in their book, bed number
36, block number two - bingo,
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they've got the name.
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The 16th century saw an
increasing flow of new arrivals.
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The very first foreign plant
introduced into the garden
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was in 1561, and was the Agave from Mexico,
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where it was prized by the Mayans
for its wound-healing properties.
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The oldest surviving plant in the garden
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is the Mediterranean fan
palm, Chamaerops humilis.
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This is the original specimen, that
has been growing here since 1585.
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It's hard to exaggerate the
importance of this garden.
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There were other botanic
gardens around the same time,
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the one in Pisa was just
about the same period,
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but this was where the study of
plants really took on importance.
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And that appreciation of plants
first of all as an aide to medicine
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and then as an end in itself, was slowly,
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but inexorably shaping the way
that we viewed our gardens.
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As well as studying medical plants,
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the botanical garden in Padua played
an important role in testing out
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the cultivation of newly
introduced agricultural species
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that were to prove essential to
feed the growing population.
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I'm now taking a boat trip along the
canal that connects Padua to Venice.
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And perhaps more importantly,
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links Venice to the agricultural
interior of the Veneto.
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Today, this is a charmingly gentle
escape from the modern hurly-burly.
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But in the 16th century it would
have been the quickest way
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to come inland and used regularly by
the Venetian merchants and nobility,
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who were buying land in the region
and building summer villas.
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These agricultural entrepreneurs
planted the new crops
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like maize that had
arrived from the Americas
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and immediately they thrived
and proved highly profitable.
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This is the Brenta Canal, and very
quickly it became the main route
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between Venice and Padua, and a
lot of trade went up and down it.
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And also it was used by the merchants
to get to their holiday homes,
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which they had built along
the banks of the canal.
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Particularly at Stra which
had very good soil.
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Those little farms that they
first had became big estates
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and then finally really
rather grand villas.
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And the place I'm going to visit
now is the grandest of them all.
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The wealthy merchants and
their guests would have been
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transported here to Stra in great style,
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travelling from their Venetian palazzo
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in a luxurious hybrid of gondola
and barge known as a burchiello.
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I arrive at my destination
just as they would have done,
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although in slightly less style,
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at the grandest holiday home
in the Veneto, Villa Pisani.
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The Pisani family were Venetian bankers
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and merchants that had been wealthy
and powerful since the 14th century.
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Villa Pisani started as a
late 16th century farmhouse,
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but in 1720 it was pulled down
to build a grand country palace
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where the Pisani family could
entertain during the summer months.
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Look at that. You could
set the scene, can't you?
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These visitors would come down
the Brenta in a glorious barge,
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they'd get out, they'd see
this enormous building,
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the biggest and the best in the
area and be suitably impressed,
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come into it, it's all rather magnificent.
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And they pushed the doors and then boom,
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it expands beyond anything
they've ever seen before.
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That's it, they've won. Pisanis
have bowled them over.
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Alvise Pisani had been
the Venetian Ambassador
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at the court of Louis XIV at Versailles
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and wanted his new garden at Stra
to emulate that of the Sun King.
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But whereas Versailles
stretched for 250 acres,
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Pisani had just 10 to play with.
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It's very grand, there are a number
of these avenues that arrive
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at gates and it's a trick that was
used actually a lot in gardens
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in the 18th century, these eye-catchers
that draw the eye out of the garden.
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Cos the gardens here are obviously
grand, but they're not that big.
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What you see is all there is.
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So by cutting through the woods and
then arriving at this gate or gap
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in the fence, what it makes it feel
is much bigger than it actually is.
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So the guests would come here,
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see it and feel as though it was
owning as far as the eye could see.
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As with all Baroque gardens,
the intention was to delight,
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amaze, surprise and entertain, as
well as parade the owner's wealth
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and power in a triumphant
display of mastery over nature.
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When you look on this from the
entrance, it's absolutely magnificent.
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And it's pretty magnificent
when you get here,
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but that's the road right there.
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It's about 10 metres thick
and there's nothing here.
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It's built just for show, just
to impress you, which is fine,
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cos it does.
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But this vast palace was only ever
intended for the summer season.
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It was a place of play rather than work
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00:16:52,000 --> 00:16:55,559
and life for a wealthy Venetian
in the mid-18th century involved
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00:16:55,560 --> 00:17:00,680
a very great deal of glamorous,
not to say, amorous play.
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And the maze which was the first thing
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00:17:05,200 --> 00:17:08,440
to be planted in the garden,
was the perfect playground.
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I do like a nice, crisp hedge.
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00:17:14,080 --> 00:17:17,320
The thing about a maze is just
sort of a hedge lover's delight.
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Right, let's go in.
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Love the smell of box.
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This was planted in 1720 and it's
remained pretty much the same,
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other than the change of hornbeam for box.
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But very different to the labyrinths
that you got in mediaeval gardens,
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because in a labyrinth, we'd
be wandering along here
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and I'd be composing myself
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and solemnly thinking about
the tortuous route of life.
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Let's go this way. But by
1720, it'd become a game.
228
00:17:50,240 --> 00:17:54,599
So what you've got to imagine is
people in lovely, great silk dresses
229
00:17:54,600 --> 00:17:58,079
and tricorn hats, and it was all flirty,
230
00:17:58,080 --> 00:18:01,999
so it was round the corner and
you'd try and find me and chase me
231
00:18:02,000 --> 00:18:04,359
and all sorts of malarkey
going on in the maze.
232
00:18:04,360 --> 00:18:06,440
And that's really the spirit of Pisani.
233
00:18:11,360 --> 00:18:15,080
Now. Left, I think.
234
00:18:17,360 --> 00:18:18,879
I can't see over the top.
235
00:18:18,880 --> 00:18:21,199
Ah, I'm getting near.
236
00:18:21,200 --> 00:18:23,200
Aha!
237
00:18:27,600 --> 00:18:29,200
Oh, dead end.
238
00:18:30,480 --> 00:18:34,000
That is deeply frustrating. Oh, well.
239
00:18:36,280 --> 00:18:38,319
I have a feeling...
240
00:18:38,320 --> 00:18:41,919
Oh, there's a cul-de-sac. I
am actually genuinely lost.
241
00:18:44,160 --> 00:18:46,959
I don't know, we'll get out somehow.
242
00:18:46,960 --> 00:18:50,999
I think the secret of a good
maze is there has to be
243
00:18:51,000 --> 00:18:54,000
a genuine sense of panic.
244
00:18:56,080 --> 00:18:58,879
And there's all sorts of recorded stories,
245
00:18:58,880 --> 00:19:02,359
particularly of grand tours,
Englishmen who'd come and visit
246
00:19:02,360 --> 00:19:05,639
mazes in the 18th century and then
get lost and be calling for help
247
00:19:05,640 --> 00:19:08,719
and these dreadful Italians
wouldn't come and let them out.
248
00:19:08,720 --> 00:19:12,080
Probably delighted to keep the
English lords shut away for a bit.
249
00:19:14,320 --> 00:19:17,679
Oh, dead end, you've got me.
250
00:19:17,680 --> 00:19:20,160
Now have your wicked way.
251
00:19:25,360 --> 00:19:28,520
Aha! Bull's-eye.
252
00:19:37,600 --> 00:19:41,159
Whilst the central tower would be
a remarkably unapproachable place
253
00:19:41,160 --> 00:19:43,999
for a secret assignation,
nowadays it serves only
254
00:19:44,000 --> 00:19:48,960
as a viewing platform, presided over
by a decidedly unromantic guard.
255
00:19:51,480 --> 00:19:56,359
The thing about a maze, it's almost
the ultimate sort of pleasing object.
256
00:19:56,360 --> 00:19:57,999
But of course as a gardener I think,
257
00:19:58,000 --> 00:20:02,559
"Blimey, can you imagine clipping that?
And then collecting it all up,
258
00:20:02,560 --> 00:20:05,519
"and also the problem of
letting light into it,
259
00:20:05,520 --> 00:20:07,200
"so it stays nice and thick."
260
00:20:09,200 --> 00:20:11,799
I doubt the Pisanis'
sportive 18th century guests
261
00:20:11,800 --> 00:20:13,959
would have troubled over such things.
262
00:20:13,960 --> 00:20:17,119
However they might well have found
their way to the coffee house
263
00:20:17,120 --> 00:20:20,199
to cool down after so
much amorous excitement.
264
00:20:20,200 --> 00:20:24,199
This arcaded pavilion sits on
a mound housing an ice house,
265
00:20:24,200 --> 00:20:27,920
which in winter was filled with blocks
of ice cut from the moat that rings it.
266
00:20:29,000 --> 00:20:32,039
Right through summer the
deliciously chilled air would waft
267
00:20:32,040 --> 00:20:34,239
upstairs into the building.
268
00:20:34,240 --> 00:20:36,439
Oh, yes, there's the vent, the open space,
269
00:20:36,440 --> 00:20:38,519
connecting to the cool air from the ice.
270
00:20:38,520 --> 00:20:41,999
So you'd sit up here with your
great big frocks with cold air
271
00:20:42,000 --> 00:20:45,640
coming up underneath them,
feeling elegant but cool.
272
00:20:51,920 --> 00:20:56,919
Sometimes it's easy to feel a bit
overwhelmed by all the symbolism
273
00:20:56,920 --> 00:21:01,639
and allegory and metaphor that you get
in Renaissance and Baroque gardens.
274
00:21:01,640 --> 00:21:06,079
But this garden is dead simple,
it's just one message that counts
275
00:21:06,080 --> 00:21:09,559
and from the very beginning the
Pisani brothers intended it
276
00:21:09,560 --> 00:21:12,599
to impress, and it's
worked through the ages.
277
00:21:12,600 --> 00:21:15,839
Napoleon came along, saw
it, loved it, bought it,
278
00:21:15,840 --> 00:21:19,039
stayed one night, dished it out
to a member of his family.
279
00:21:19,040 --> 00:21:22,519
The Tsar of Russia chose to stay
here above all the other places
280
00:21:22,520 --> 00:21:25,039
that he could have had in the Veneto.
281
00:21:25,040 --> 00:21:27,639
The Hapsburgs put their court here.
282
00:21:27,640 --> 00:21:31,159
And, to this day, every single
person that walks through that door
283
00:21:31,160 --> 00:21:34,280
comes in, has a look and goes, "Wow".
284
00:21:40,280 --> 00:21:44,759
I'm leaving the Veneto to take
a detour southwest to Lucca -
285
00:21:44,760 --> 00:21:46,439
once an independent city state,
286
00:21:46,440 --> 00:21:49,920
and another wealthy centre
of trade and agriculture.
287
00:21:55,440 --> 00:21:58,959
I'm coming to visit a garden
that was built on the proceeds
288
00:21:58,960 --> 00:22:01,840
of a very specialised, very local product.
289
00:22:05,360 --> 00:22:08,399
The reason why I'm making
this journey to Lucca is that
290
00:22:08,400 --> 00:22:10,839
it shares lots of
similarities with the Veneto,
291
00:22:10,840 --> 00:22:13,159
because it's an independent state
292
00:22:13,160 --> 00:22:15,439
that had a lot of wealth, but it was tiny.
293
00:22:15,440 --> 00:22:18,119
Despite this, it had its own
ambassadors to the court
294
00:22:18,120 --> 00:22:19,839
of St Petersburg and Versailles
295
00:22:19,840 --> 00:22:22,079
and that wealth was based on two sources.
296
00:22:22,080 --> 00:22:25,600
One was banking and the other was silk.
297
00:22:35,440 --> 00:22:39,679
Today, visitors come to Lucca to
admire its mediaeval architecture.
298
00:22:39,680 --> 00:22:43,080
It is a calm, beautifully-preserved town.
299
00:22:45,000 --> 00:22:48,919
But its history is founded on hard trade.
300
00:22:48,920 --> 00:22:51,759
800 years ago, Lucca led the
world in silk production
301
00:22:51,760 --> 00:22:54,280
and pioneered new spinning technology.
302
00:22:56,920 --> 00:22:59,839
Lucca's silk merchants such
as Giovanni Arnolfini,
303
00:22:59,840 --> 00:23:02,239
seen here in the famous
painting by Jan van Eyck,
304
00:23:02,240 --> 00:23:04,479
grew enormously rich on the trade
305
00:23:04,480 --> 00:23:07,000
of the finest silks and silk velvets.
306
00:23:14,680 --> 00:23:19,279
These merchants built themselves
summer houses outside the city.
307
00:23:19,280 --> 00:23:23,559
And by the middle of the 17th
century, these villas in the hills
308
00:23:23,560 --> 00:23:26,560
increasingly sported superb gardens.
309
00:23:40,600 --> 00:23:44,719
In 1651, one of Lucca's wealthiest
silk merchants of all bought himself
310
00:23:44,720 --> 00:23:49,720
the title of Count Orsetti and built
this stupendous villa and garden.
311
00:23:51,280 --> 00:23:54,079
But despite the newly noble
Count Orsetti's wealth,
312
00:23:54,080 --> 00:23:56,519
and despite the opulence of his gardens,
313
00:23:56,520 --> 00:23:59,999
the villas of these Lucchesi
merchants were still
314
00:24:00,000 --> 00:24:05,319
essentially highly-productive farms,
and they all shared the same layout.
315
00:24:05,320 --> 00:24:09,719
They're all north-south,
they all have their good
316
00:24:09,720 --> 00:24:13,719
cereal ground below, going down,
sweeping down gently in a slope.
317
00:24:13,720 --> 00:24:16,839
Behind them they had their
olive trees and their orchards
318
00:24:16,840 --> 00:24:19,599
and their woods, and then
right in front of the house
319
00:24:19,600 --> 00:24:22,959
and to the side they grew vegetables.
It was a format they all followed,
320
00:24:22,960 --> 00:24:25,999
and in the middle of the farmhouse,
they all have one big room
321
00:24:26,000 --> 00:24:27,879
with windows to the front and the back
322
00:24:27,880 --> 00:24:30,839
so they could look out on their
land, because it's all about money.
323
00:24:30,840 --> 00:24:34,960
But in the kernel of all these
places, they're working farmhouses.
324
00:24:38,920 --> 00:24:41,599
Villa Marlia, then known as Villa Orsetti,
325
00:24:41,600 --> 00:24:44,959
follows the Baroque fashion
for a series of garden rooms,
326
00:24:44,960 --> 00:24:49,320
each designed to surprise, delight
and entertain the visitor.
327
00:24:52,280 --> 00:24:57,120
But nothing delights or entertains me
more than these breathtaking hedges.
328
00:25:03,240 --> 00:25:05,519
That is fantastic.
329
00:25:05,520 --> 00:25:11,079
Incredible canyon created
by the hedges and the path.
330
00:25:11,080 --> 00:25:15,239
It's an unlikely comparison, but
it's exactly the same impression
331
00:25:15,240 --> 00:25:17,119
you get when you first go to New York
332
00:25:17,120 --> 00:25:18,759
and these enormous buildings
333
00:25:18,760 --> 00:25:23,479
flanking the street and it changes
the way that you view a street...
334
00:25:23,480 --> 00:25:26,559
or, here, a garden path.
335
00:25:26,560 --> 00:25:29,959
If you look at the trees,
they're full-blown oak trees,
336
00:25:29,960 --> 00:25:31,600
clipped to hedge form.
337
00:25:34,080 --> 00:25:38,279
You see, for me this is worth
crossing the world just to see this.
338
00:25:38,280 --> 00:25:40,200
Last for the rest of my life.
339
00:25:48,600 --> 00:25:50,399
The language of Baroque symbolism
340
00:25:50,400 --> 00:25:54,759
and allegory would have been readily
understood by all educated Europeans
341
00:25:54,760 --> 00:25:58,359
of the period, which was essentially
the 17th and 18th centuries.
342
00:25:58,360 --> 00:26:02,759
So I have seen a number of similar
river gods to these in the pool
343
00:26:02,760 --> 00:26:07,800
and the citrus garden in other
gardens around Rome and Caprarola.
344
00:26:10,640 --> 00:26:13,559
I've seen quite a few citrus gardens now,
345
00:26:13,560 --> 00:26:15,599
but I think this is my favourite.
346
00:26:15,600 --> 00:26:16,799
I love it.
347
00:26:16,800 --> 00:26:19,479
Just trying to work out what
it is and I think the rhythm
348
00:26:19,480 --> 00:26:22,199
is important, you have the
balustrades playing along
349
00:26:22,200 --> 00:26:26,319
and then the pots equally spaced
and the colour of the lemons.
350
00:26:26,320 --> 00:26:30,839
And it's like a sort of Baroque fugue
that's picked up and played on.
351
00:26:30,840 --> 00:26:34,039
But it's very practical - they
would have sold the lemons
352
00:26:34,040 --> 00:26:36,759
and, you know, they're
Luccans, they're merchants,
353
00:26:36,760 --> 00:26:39,319
and this is based upon an
agricultural background,
354
00:26:39,320 --> 00:26:42,519
so you grow lemons and you
sell them and it's a harvest
355
00:26:42,520 --> 00:26:45,719
and the water was for growing fish,
if you like, it's a fish tank.
356
00:26:45,720 --> 00:26:50,240
And it fed them. So the
beauty is always practical.
357
00:27:03,560 --> 00:27:07,439
Marlia, like all the gardens
of the Italian Baroque,
358
00:27:07,440 --> 00:27:10,279
was a place of performance and display.
359
00:27:10,280 --> 00:27:13,639
And perhaps that is the central key
to understanding all the great.
360
00:27:13,640 --> 00:27:15,559
Italian gardens throughout history.
361
00:27:15,560 --> 00:27:18,839
And here at Marlia there
is a perfectly preserved
362
00:27:18,840 --> 00:27:23,280
teatro di verdura - a theatre
created entirely from topiary.
363
00:27:25,920 --> 00:27:27,160
This is terrific.
364
00:27:30,040 --> 00:27:35,200
This great building made out of
yew and a little bit of box.
365
00:27:37,160 --> 00:27:40,919
And I know that it was really
used, it's a real theatre,
366
00:27:40,920 --> 00:27:43,839
it's not a topiary-pretend theatre.
367
00:27:43,840 --> 00:27:46,439
They had performances here
and there is backstage
368
00:27:46,440 --> 00:27:48,879
and seats probably sat here.
369
00:27:48,880 --> 00:27:52,599
And you could imagine those wonderful
ladies with their enormous
370
00:27:52,600 --> 00:27:56,879
great silk dresses, local
silk, I suspect, sweeping in,
371
00:27:56,880 --> 00:28:01,559
and you can get... Whoops,
be careful on there.
372
00:28:01,560 --> 00:28:04,880
I come up here, getting soaked.
373
00:28:09,280 --> 00:28:11,080
I suppose this is the upper circle.
374
00:28:12,840 --> 00:28:17,759
Yes, in here, we've got backstage area.
375
00:28:17,760 --> 00:28:20,920
And I bet this is
wonderfully cool in summer.
376
00:28:22,720 --> 00:28:27,520
And here we've the wings with
all the different entrances.
377
00:28:28,840 --> 00:28:32,960
So we come through onto the
stage and make my entrance.
378
00:28:34,000 --> 00:28:35,240
Da-nah!
379
00:28:44,840 --> 00:28:47,719
The terracotta statues date from 1700
380
00:28:47,720 --> 00:28:51,479
and represent the stock characters
from the commedia dell'arte.
381
00:28:51,480 --> 00:28:55,159
These plays were frequently
bawdy in tone and dramatised
382
00:28:55,160 --> 00:29:00,240
stock themes such as adultery,
love and the futility of old age.
383
00:29:05,000 --> 00:29:09,839
And I have to say, it's
just completely fabulous
384
00:29:09,840 --> 00:29:12,640
and I want one in my
garden and I want it now.
385
00:29:20,160 --> 00:29:23,919
For Count Orsetti and his
descendants, parties and plays
386
00:29:23,920 --> 00:29:28,040
continued at Villa Marlia right up
to the end of the 18th century.
387
00:29:29,120 --> 00:29:32,119
Then their world collapsed.
388
00:29:32,120 --> 00:29:36,839
In 1796, Napoleon Bonaparte
crossed the Alps
389
00:29:36,840 --> 00:29:38,880
and swept through northern Italy.
390
00:29:42,320 --> 00:29:45,959
His army captured Venice, ending
1,100 years of independence,
391
00:29:45,960 --> 00:29:49,720
and in 1799 took Lucca.
392
00:29:56,840 --> 00:30:00,839
The opening lines of Tolstoy's
War And Peace are, roughly,
393
00:30:00,840 --> 00:30:02,559
"Well, prince,
394
00:30:02,560 --> 00:30:08,359
"I see that Lucca and Genoa are now
just estates of the Bonaparte family."
395
00:30:08,360 --> 00:30:10,959
And that was based on what happened here,
396
00:30:10,960 --> 00:30:15,239
because in 1805, Napoleon,
dishing out provinces
397
00:30:15,240 --> 00:30:21,519
like the gangster chief he was, gave
to his sister the state of Lucca.
398
00:30:21,520 --> 00:30:25,479
And she came down, had a look
and decided that this villa,
399
00:30:25,480 --> 00:30:27,439
which was then called Villa Orsetti,
400
00:30:27,440 --> 00:30:29,719
was where she wanted to base herself.
401
00:30:29,720 --> 00:30:32,759
And she more or less turfed out
the owners - she did pay them
402
00:30:32,760 --> 00:30:35,399
and gave them an offer
they couldn't refuse.
403
00:30:35,400 --> 00:30:40,479
And the count, Count Orsetti, in
his fury and fear, I suspect,
404
00:30:40,480 --> 00:30:45,599
had her silver money melted down,
made into a huge dinner service,
405
00:30:45,600 --> 00:30:48,639
which he then put on a cart and trundled
406
00:30:48,640 --> 00:30:50,919
across the front of the villa
407
00:30:50,920 --> 00:30:54,240
so that Elisa could see Marlia disappear.
408
00:30:58,840 --> 00:31:01,039
It might have made him feel better,
409
00:31:01,040 --> 00:31:03,319
but it didn't get him his house back.
410
00:31:03,320 --> 00:31:06,359
And Elisa turned her back
on his baroque formality,
411
00:31:06,360 --> 00:31:09,839
and created instead an
English landscape garden.
412
00:31:09,840 --> 00:31:13,399
Its much more natural, informal
style was then sweeping
413
00:31:13,400 --> 00:31:17,760
the continent and made greater use
of imported plants and trees.
414
00:31:24,400 --> 00:31:27,879
Although the changes that Elisa
made here were highly fashionable
415
00:31:27,880 --> 00:31:31,919
at the time, actually, gardening was
changing in a very profound way.
416
00:31:31,920 --> 00:31:36,599
And it was because new plants were
pouring in from all over the world.
417
00:31:36,600 --> 00:31:40,319
And up till the 19th century,
in Italy at least, architects
418
00:31:40,320 --> 00:31:44,239
and landscape designers controlled
the way that gardens looked.
419
00:31:44,240 --> 00:31:48,359
But with this new material it
was plants themselves became
420
00:31:48,360 --> 00:31:50,839
the most interesting thing.
421
00:31:50,840 --> 00:31:55,600
And we go from the age of the formal
designer to the age of the plantsman.
422
00:32:03,560 --> 00:32:06,799
I'm now heading north to an area
where plantsmen made perhaps
423
00:32:06,800 --> 00:32:11,959
the biggest impact on the country's
gardens, the Italian lakes, which
424
00:32:11,960 --> 00:32:15,640
lie up on the country's mountainous
border with Switzerland and France.
425
00:32:36,840 --> 00:32:41,159
This is Lake Como, where the
freshly kindled 19th-century
426
00:32:41,160 --> 00:32:45,039
passion for plants combined with
a surge of new exotic species
427
00:32:45,040 --> 00:32:47,880
to create some spectacular gardens.
428
00:32:52,600 --> 00:32:55,239
The dramatic alpine
setting, purity of the air
429
00:32:55,240 --> 00:32:59,039
and the clarity of the light, all
combine to make this area feel
430
00:32:59,040 --> 00:33:02,599
distinctly different to the rest of Italy.
431
00:33:02,600 --> 00:33:06,599
In the early 19th century, it certainly
chimed with the new romantic movement,
432
00:33:06,600 --> 00:33:09,439
and inspired poets such
as Shelley and Wordsworth
433
00:33:09,440 --> 00:33:11,880
and composers like Verdi and Liszt.
434
00:33:14,240 --> 00:33:17,039
And at the same time in the early 1800s,
435
00:33:17,040 --> 00:33:19,719
Como's shores were being transformed
436
00:33:19,720 --> 00:33:23,360
as wealthy Italians queued
up to build lakeside villas.
437
00:33:28,560 --> 00:33:32,959
I'm taking a boat trip along Lake
Como with Judith Wade. - Hello.
438
00:33:32,960 --> 00:33:36,919
'Judith founded the Grandi
Giardini Italiani which has helped
439
00:33:36,920 --> 00:33:41,519
'and coordinated scores of
Italy's finest historic gardens
440
00:33:41,520 --> 00:33:43,600
'to open to the public.'
441
00:33:58,080 --> 00:34:00,759
They are incredibly splendid villas.
442
00:34:00,760 --> 00:34:04,359
Very ornate, all the gardens
of course are waterfront
443
00:34:04,360 --> 00:34:07,999
and have been designed so
that you can appreciate them
444
00:34:08,000 --> 00:34:13,119
from the waterfront rather than
from the back of the city.
445
00:34:13,120 --> 00:34:16,759
There are dozens of very
impressive villas, aren't there?
446
00:34:16,760 --> 00:34:18,879
Just one after the other,
all the way along.
447
00:34:18,880 --> 00:34:21,560
- I think there are more than 100.
- Really? Really?
448
00:34:24,480 --> 00:34:27,839
'In recent years, many of Como's
lavish villas have been bought
449
00:34:27,840 --> 00:34:33,200
'by oligarchs, film stars and
super-rich fashion designers.'
450
00:34:36,880 --> 00:34:39,719
- This used to belong to Versace and...
- This one here?
451
00:34:39,720 --> 00:34:41,159
Yes, and that's where...
452
00:34:41,160 --> 00:34:43,479
And does the garden run all the way down?
453
00:34:43,480 --> 00:34:45,719
- All the way down here.
- Marvellous garden.
454
00:34:45,720 --> 00:34:48,679
And I believe that Madonna and Shakira
455
00:34:48,680 --> 00:34:51,680
and all the people in the pop
world would turn up here often.
456
00:34:53,040 --> 00:34:56,079
So what's this one here?
457
00:34:56,080 --> 00:34:58,399
Mr Clooney's place.
458
00:34:58,400 --> 00:35:02,800
Ah, very beautiful, yes, I could see
why he might want to live there. - Yes.
459
00:35:13,360 --> 00:35:16,639
This is Mr Branson's home,
it's rather particular,
460
00:35:16,640 --> 00:35:18,239
very beautifully kept.
461
00:35:18,240 --> 00:35:20,199
- Yes.
- Almost groomed.
462
00:35:20,200 --> 00:35:24,439
And Mr Branson can only fly in
here or come in here by boat,
463
00:35:24,440 --> 00:35:26,640
because it has no access by road.
464
00:35:28,000 --> 00:35:33,279
- It is immaculately kept, isn't it?
- And beautifully clipped Cyprus trees.
465
00:35:33,280 --> 00:35:35,439
Does he spend much time there?
466
00:35:35,440 --> 00:35:39,599
- I really don't know, he's never invited me over, but...
- Has he not?
467
00:35:39,600 --> 00:35:41,960
- How rude. - Ha-ha!
- How appalling.
468
00:35:45,600 --> 00:35:50,759
And now we're coming along to
Balbianello, but this is on a slope,
469
00:35:50,760 --> 00:35:54,639
so you couldn't make a proper Italian garden.
Well, you come in here,
470
00:35:54,640 --> 00:35:57,800
you can look up the slope and it
looks as though it is a garden.
471
00:36:02,080 --> 00:36:05,719
There is a lot of topiary there. It's
beautifully groomed and clipped.
472
00:36:05,720 --> 00:36:08,959
They take four months, just two men,
473
00:36:08,960 --> 00:36:12,079
who've been there for the last
30 years, they're the same.
474
00:36:12,080 --> 00:36:15,520
- Do you know they use scissors on it?
- Do they? Ha-ha!
475
00:36:27,040 --> 00:36:31,199
In the early 19th century when many
of these villas and their gardens
476
00:36:31,200 --> 00:36:35,199
were made, there was a burgeoning
of colonial expansion and trade,
477
00:36:35,200 --> 00:36:39,959
which, in turn, created and fuelled
a craze for exotic new plants,
478
00:36:39,960 --> 00:36:41,960
both from the east and the Americas.
479
00:36:43,240 --> 00:36:46,439
The climate of the lakes, with
its high rainfall, hot summers
480
00:36:46,440 --> 00:36:50,680
and surprisingly mild winters, was
perfect for the new arrivals.
481
00:36:56,360 --> 00:37:01,399
Everybody has lovely glass houses
because they were plant collectors.
482
00:37:01,400 --> 00:37:03,519
So they were bringing plants in,
483
00:37:03,520 --> 00:37:05,879
I mean, that was quite a
new thing, wasn't it?
484
00:37:05,880 --> 00:37:09,639
- That was the fashion way through Europe at the time.
- Yes, yes.
485
00:37:09,640 --> 00:37:12,399
It was your status symbol -
it wasn't having a Ferrari,
486
00:37:12,400 --> 00:37:14,159
it was buying rare plants.
487
00:37:14,160 --> 00:37:19,679
And then of course when Napoleon
turned up of course there was
488
00:37:19,680 --> 00:37:23,359
a lot of boats going round Europe
bringing plants in and out -
489
00:37:23,360 --> 00:37:27,639
that was an exciting part, he was
going to exotic parts of the world.
490
00:37:27,640 --> 00:37:32,679
And so with the mild climate and ericaceous
soil they could have plants from the Himalayas
491
00:37:32,680 --> 00:37:34,160
or China or wherever.
492
00:37:36,640 --> 00:37:39,479
- Goodbye, have a nice day.
- Thank you very much indeed.
493
00:37:39,480 --> 00:37:42,799
'On the shore of the little village
of Bellagio is Villa Melzi,
494
00:37:42,800 --> 00:37:46,440
which is one of Lake Como's finest gardens.
495
00:38:03,560 --> 00:38:07,359
At the turn of the 19th century,
this garden started a bitter
496
00:38:07,360 --> 00:38:11,320
horticultural rivalry between two
of Italy's most prominent men.
497
00:38:13,200 --> 00:38:17,839
Melzi was the home of Francesco
Melzi d'Eril, a Milanese aristocrat
498
00:38:17,840 --> 00:38:23,079
who Napoleon appointed vice president
of Italy after the French invasion.
499
00:38:23,080 --> 00:38:28,039
In 1808 he began to make his garden
in the new English landscape style,
500
00:38:28,040 --> 00:38:31,599
and from the first it was
open to views of the lake
501
00:38:31,600 --> 00:38:33,519
and the mountains beyond.
502
00:38:33,520 --> 00:38:37,119
However, like all natural-looking
gardens, this involved huge work
503
00:38:37,120 --> 00:38:41,280
to make and needs intensive
maintenance to keep looking natural.
504
00:38:42,720 --> 00:38:45,759
When you first walk round the
garden it seems to just sort of be
505
00:38:45,760 --> 00:38:47,799
rather soft and like a country park.
506
00:38:47,800 --> 00:38:52,319
But when you analyse it the design has got
really particular and strong elements.
507
00:38:52,320 --> 00:38:54,599
For a start, you've got this steep slope,
508
00:38:54,600 --> 00:38:58,039
tied together by the immaculate
grass and these sculpted rather
509
00:38:58,040 --> 00:39:02,199
abstract forms both of the shape
of the land and also the shrubs.
510
00:39:02,200 --> 00:39:05,479
And then there's trees growing
up which give it some verticals.
511
00:39:05,480 --> 00:39:07,719
And then you have this path,
512
00:39:07,720 --> 00:39:11,039
this great long path just running
the whole length of the garden
513
00:39:11,040 --> 00:39:13,640
and the series of the plane
trees, open to the lake.
514
00:39:14,960 --> 00:39:18,559
And it's a vast plane, this
great horizontal expanse,
515
00:39:18,560 --> 00:39:20,839
which sets it all into balance.
516
00:39:20,840 --> 00:39:25,119
And I don't think that first part,
the soft, abstract, sculptural bit,
517
00:39:25,120 --> 00:39:28,800
would work nearly so well without
the severity of the lake.
518
00:39:34,640 --> 00:39:37,839
Directly across the water at Villa Carlotta
519
00:39:37,840 --> 00:39:43,039
lived Gian Battista Sommariva,
another highly ambitious politician.
520
00:39:43,040 --> 00:39:47,439
And Sommariva deeply resented Melzi
for beating him to the top job
521
00:39:47,440 --> 00:39:50,919
and there was no love lost
between the neighbours.
522
00:39:50,920 --> 00:39:56,080
This fuelled both men's gardens as
they vied to out-do each other.
523
00:40:07,560 --> 00:40:10,759
Melzi appointed a botanist and
started filling his garden
524
00:40:10,760 --> 00:40:13,560
with the latest plants
from around the world.
525
00:40:22,400 --> 00:40:24,119
Sommariva followed suit,
526
00:40:24,120 --> 00:40:27,800
buying up more land to make room
for his growing collection.
527
00:40:35,600 --> 00:40:40,040
Melzi fired a salvo of Rhododendron
indicum, imported from Japan.
528
00:40:44,240 --> 00:40:45,319
Not to be outdone,
529
00:40:45,320 --> 00:40:49,560
Sommariva responded by
planting hundreds of them.
530
00:40:55,480 --> 00:40:57,839
But Melzi wasn't going
to take that lying down.
531
00:40:57,840 --> 00:41:00,959
He did his own exotic planting
right on the waterfront,
532
00:41:00,960 --> 00:41:04,759
and Sommariva could see
that across the water
533
00:41:04,760 --> 00:41:08,640
it was like a horticultural
bullet fired straight at him.
534
00:41:14,200 --> 00:41:17,399
Melzi upped the stakes and planted
ever more trees and shrubs
535
00:41:17,400 --> 00:41:20,879
rarely seen in Italy at that time,
536
00:41:20,880 --> 00:41:24,240
but daily visible to Sommariva.
537
00:41:25,760 --> 00:41:28,559
For my money, it's Villa Melzi that wins
538
00:41:28,560 --> 00:41:30,679
this rather frantic gardening duel.
539
00:41:30,680 --> 00:41:33,639
Unlike Carlotta, it has a
sweep and a line to it,
540
00:41:33,640 --> 00:41:36,720
and the inclusion of the landscape
is clever and generous.
541
00:41:54,360 --> 00:41:56,559
But nevertheless, I can't
help but notice that.
542
00:41:56,560 --> 00:41:59,679
Melzi sited his greatest treasures
543
00:41:59,680 --> 00:42:02,440
where they would admired by
the maximum number of people.
544
00:42:06,120 --> 00:42:09,639
The garden here is planted
with wonderful specimen trees
545
00:42:09,640 --> 00:42:11,319
like the cedar of Lebanon,
546
00:42:11,320 --> 00:42:15,599
and there are zelkovas and all sorts
of trees from all over the world.
547
00:42:15,600 --> 00:42:20,439
But none of them are the same as
the trees on the wooded slopes,
548
00:42:20,440 --> 00:42:22,039
none of them are natives.
549
00:42:22,040 --> 00:42:25,999
And actually, if you look along the
lake, you have this fine seam of
550
00:42:26,000 --> 00:42:30,840
exotic planting, like a strip of
gold showing off people's wealth.
551
00:42:48,760 --> 00:42:51,839
Napoleon's rule lasted less than 20 years.
552
00:42:51,840 --> 00:42:56,359
And finally, in 1861, for the
first time in its history,
553
00:42:56,360 --> 00:42:59,400
Italy was unified into a
single political state.
554
00:43:01,480 --> 00:43:03,919
Railways were built, businesses prospered,
555
00:43:03,920 --> 00:43:08,239
and throughout this new Italy, and
especially here in the north,
556
00:43:08,240 --> 00:43:12,319
a new middle class started to
emerge, and they began to take up
557
00:43:12,320 --> 00:43:16,240
the hitherto-aristocratic
pastime of gardening.
558
00:43:18,760 --> 00:43:23,439
Going past miles of
nurseries, mainly for trees.
559
00:43:23,440 --> 00:43:26,039
And these nurseries really
began in the 19th century,
560
00:43:26,040 --> 00:43:27,399
particularly in the north -
561
00:43:27,400 --> 00:43:30,079
there was money developing,
for the middle classes.
562
00:43:30,080 --> 00:43:33,879
And that meant that they could
have gardens that weren't
563
00:43:33,880 --> 00:43:36,079
just for food, and for the very first time,
564
00:43:36,080 --> 00:43:38,919
there were gardening magazines,
there were plant suppliers,
565
00:43:38,920 --> 00:43:40,799
there were societies,
566
00:43:40,800 --> 00:43:43,840
so that horticulture
became a common activity.
567
00:43:47,240 --> 00:43:51,479
Before I visit my last garden, I'm
stopping off in Milan to visit
568
00:43:51,480 --> 00:43:55,920
one of Italy's oldest nurseries,
established 130 years ago.
569
00:43:59,160 --> 00:44:02,599
In the spirit of the
16th-century botanists in Padua,
570
00:44:02,600 --> 00:44:06,159
the Ingegnoli brothers collected
plants from all over the world
571
00:44:06,160 --> 00:44:08,319
and propagated them for their seeds,
572
00:44:08,320 --> 00:44:11,880
feeding the new market for
exotic flowers and fruits.
573
00:44:14,000 --> 00:44:16,959
The business is now run
by Francesco Fadini,
574
00:44:16,960 --> 00:44:19,480
the sixth generation of Ingegnolis.
575
00:44:25,640 --> 00:44:28,639
The railway was very,
very important for us.
576
00:44:28,640 --> 00:44:34,119
In 1861, to send our product,
the seeds, the plants,
577
00:44:34,120 --> 00:44:37,919
in all Italy, from Milano to Sicily.
578
00:44:37,920 --> 00:44:42,119
So by this stage, the whole of
Italy was buying from you? - Yes.
579
00:44:42,120 --> 00:44:46,560
- So you could issue a catalogue?
- Yes. This is the catalogue for 1893.
580
00:44:50,600 --> 00:44:52,239
Great pictures, too.
581
00:44:52,240 --> 00:44:55,439
Look at all these different
varieties of pear, it's amazing.
582
00:44:55,440 --> 00:44:56,919
We don't have this now.
583
00:44:56,920 --> 00:45:00,199
I like the squared paper, so
people could write their notes.
584
00:45:00,200 --> 00:45:02,279
- Make their notes, yes.
- It's such a good idea.
585
00:45:02,280 --> 00:45:06,399
And presumably there was a
genuine increase in interest?
586
00:45:06,400 --> 00:45:09,439
The new type of plants were very important.
587
00:45:09,440 --> 00:45:15,039
Francesco Ingegnoli, in 1880,
he went to Japan, to China,
588
00:45:15,040 --> 00:45:16,839
he returned with the caco.
589
00:45:16,840 --> 00:45:20,799
- I don't know in English the translation of the "caco".
- I think it's persimmon.
590
00:45:20,800 --> 00:45:24,159
So people must have been excited
by these new plants coming in.
591
00:45:24,160 --> 00:45:28,239
- To taste the first time, like a caco...
- Yes, yes. - Is incredible.
592
00:45:28,240 --> 00:45:33,359
We also have a letter of 1888.
It's the thank letter.
593
00:45:33,360 --> 00:45:40,199
"I received six caco. Thanks very much.
And I hope that in the future,
594
00:45:40,200 --> 00:45:46,839
"this variety of caco will be very famous
in Italy, best regards, Giuseppe Verdi."
595
00:45:46,840 --> 00:45:48,759
So you had famous customers.
596
00:45:48,760 --> 00:45:51,879
There were these new fruits
coming in, new varieties,
597
00:45:51,880 --> 00:45:54,599
there's a kind of energy.
598
00:45:54,600 --> 00:46:00,639
It was very important. They wanted to see
flower, the colour, something different.
599
00:46:00,640 --> 00:46:02,800
Now I understand, I understand.
600
00:46:15,480 --> 00:46:19,519
I have headed north from
Milan to Lake Maggiore,
601
00:46:19,520 --> 00:46:22,760
and my final destination on this
horticultural journey through Italy.
602
00:46:24,080 --> 00:46:30,520
And this is perhaps the ultimate expression of
the baroque love of extravagance and drama.
603
00:46:32,200 --> 00:46:37,680
At the western end of Lake Maggiore lie three
islands collectively called the Borromeos.
604
00:46:47,160 --> 00:46:52,920
They're named after the aristocratic banking family
who bought land on them in the 16th century.
605
00:46:57,360 --> 00:47:00,719
The island that I'm visiting
is called Isola Bella,
606
00:47:00,720 --> 00:47:06,559
and for centuries it has attracted
garden visitors like moths to the flame.
607
00:47:06,560 --> 00:47:11,160
Indeed this is now my own third visit.
I hope it won't be my last.
608
00:47:18,640 --> 00:47:22,799
The Isola Bella is just not like
anywhere else you've ever seen.
609
00:47:22,800 --> 00:47:25,079
When I first saw it, I remember thinking
610
00:47:25,080 --> 00:47:28,719
that it's like a sort of mad
battleship wearing a party frock.
611
00:47:28,720 --> 00:47:30,639
It's extravagant, it's hysterical,
612
00:47:30,640 --> 00:47:34,839
It's like a drag ball parading as a garden.
613
00:47:34,840 --> 00:47:39,079
And yet it's a really good garden
and perhaps the best surviving
614
00:47:39,080 --> 00:47:41,440
baroque example of a garden
in the whole of Italy.
615
00:47:52,840 --> 00:47:57,599
In 1632 Carlo Borromeo, the
governor of Lake Maggiore,
616
00:47:57,600 --> 00:48:02,520
commissioned this entire rocky island to
be transformed into a pyramid of terraces.
617
00:48:09,080 --> 00:48:15,120
Towering 100 feet up into the sky, he wanted it to
look like a great galleon floating on the lake.
618
00:48:17,080 --> 00:48:19,359
It took 40 years to complete,
619
00:48:19,360 --> 00:48:23,680
and huge quantities of soil, marble
and granite were shipped in.
620
00:48:25,280 --> 00:48:29,039
Whilst this work proceeded,
Borromeo set about trying to buy up
621
00:48:29,040 --> 00:48:32,840
the houses of the fishermen
who lived on the island.
622
00:48:44,240 --> 00:48:49,399
But it wasn't all plain sailing, because a lot of
the villagers couldn't be coerced into selling.
623
00:48:49,400 --> 00:48:53,719
They just stayed put, which meant that
the garden had to be made around them,
624
00:48:53,720 --> 00:48:55,759
which is why it's such an odd shape.
625
00:48:55,760 --> 00:48:59,479
Now, gradually over a long
period of time, some did sell,
626
00:48:59,480 --> 00:49:02,920
and pockets of the garden
were able to be extended.
627
00:49:20,400 --> 00:49:25,759
This is classic High Baroque drama.
628
00:49:25,760 --> 00:49:31,360
Everything slightly hysterical, but
in a very elegant, controlled way.
629
00:49:34,480 --> 00:49:40,320
And I love these high hedges above
the balustrade, they're bay hedges.
630
00:49:41,320 --> 00:49:44,519
So enormous height, I mean
what's that, 30 feet tall?
631
00:49:44,520 --> 00:49:47,119
And you know something's up
there but you don't know what,
632
00:49:47,120 --> 00:49:49,920
so of course you're led,
and then look at, oh!
633
00:49:51,880 --> 00:49:55,959
These steps curve round and then
that's ficus repens on the wall,
634
00:49:55,960 --> 00:50:02,880
and then more bay above it, so you have
this immaculate green, curving wall.
635
00:50:05,040 --> 00:50:09,120
Very simple but immediately
incredibly powerful.
636
00:50:10,880 --> 00:50:14,320
"Eine Kleine Nachtmusik" by Mozart.
637
00:50:16,520 --> 00:50:22,839
There's a tendency to think of baroque
as all twiddles and over-ornamentation.
638
00:50:22,840 --> 00:50:26,479
But this staircase does show
that just texture and colour
639
00:50:26,480 --> 00:50:34,440
and very, very strong shape and form with that
little strip of stone is just as dramatic.
640
00:50:36,680 --> 00:50:40,439
And the main purpose of the
staircase is to compress the views
641
00:50:40,440 --> 00:50:42,680
and heighten the sense of anticipation.
642
00:51:10,520 --> 00:51:18,479
And there, this is the most
incredible, theatrical,
643
00:51:18,480 --> 00:51:21,479
completely dotty thing I've
ever seen in a garden.
644
00:51:21,480 --> 00:51:26,160
And it's... What is it? It's operatic.
645
00:51:27,920 --> 00:51:30,519
And white peacocks, it's like a dream,
646
00:51:30,520 --> 00:51:34,519
like walking through a door in
a dream and suddenly seeing
647
00:51:34,520 --> 00:51:41,559
this scalloped, vast
stage set with figures.
648
00:51:41,560 --> 00:51:45,159
It's like walking round
the corner in your garden
649
00:51:45,160 --> 00:51:48,680
and going onto the L'Escala or the
Opera House at Covent Garden.
650
00:51:51,240 --> 00:51:52,679
Fantastic!
651
00:51:52,680 --> 00:51:56,160
"The Queen of the Night"
from "The Magic Flute" by Mozart.
652
00:52:10,800 --> 00:52:16,160
The Massimo theatre is an operatic triumph
of baroque kitsch and power play.
653
00:52:18,000 --> 00:52:21,479
The statues of Roman gods,
obelisks, scallops, waving putti,
654
00:52:21,480 --> 00:52:24,760
all overlooked by the
Borromeos' symbol, the unicorn.
655
00:52:37,000 --> 00:52:40,919
Guests would have been entertained
by music drifting up from choirs
656
00:52:40,920 --> 00:52:43,640
and orchestras hidden in the garden below.
657
00:52:49,280 --> 00:52:55,280
Whilst albino peacocks, imported from
south-east Asia, strutted and posed archly.
658
00:53:05,960 --> 00:53:10,319
The impulse to entertain,
impress and show off
659
00:53:10,320 --> 00:53:13,960
reaches its high point
on the highest terrace.
660
00:53:23,920 --> 00:53:27,920
Big open space. It's like
walking into an empty ballroom.
661
00:53:31,880 --> 00:53:35,840
And these amazing views on each side.
662
00:53:37,320 --> 00:53:39,919
So that it couldn't be lighter and airier,
663
00:53:39,920 --> 00:53:42,640
and yet these whopping
great statues, and...
664
00:53:46,120 --> 00:53:50,240
...there, the Borromeo symbol, the
unicorn, bigger than anything else.
665
00:53:53,880 --> 00:53:55,880
No doubt about who's the daddy here!
666
00:53:57,200 --> 00:54:01,559
So if you come to the Borromeo party, you end
up here, with all the guests in their finery
667
00:54:01,560 --> 00:54:05,679
and people can see that
you're having a party,
668
00:54:05,680 --> 00:54:07,759
they can see you dressed in your finery,
669
00:54:07,760 --> 00:54:11,999
you know, the Borromeos
are having another do.
670
00:54:12,000 --> 00:54:14,719
But they're not invited,
that's the key thing.
671
00:54:14,720 --> 00:54:17,359
This is a fortress of privilege.
672
00:54:17,360 --> 00:54:21,760
It's the perfect platform for display.
673
00:54:29,760 --> 00:54:34,719
Originally dominated by Mediterranean
plants and the inevitable citrus,
674
00:54:34,720 --> 00:54:38,319
Isola Bella underwent a
transformation in the 19th century
675
00:54:38,320 --> 00:54:43,239
when the plant-mad Count Vitaliano
Borromeo imported a mass of exotic species
676
00:54:43,240 --> 00:54:48,680
from China, India, the Americas,
Himalayas and Australia.
677
00:54:59,520 --> 00:55:03,199
This Camphor is truly enormous, it's...
678
00:55:03,200 --> 00:55:07,399
ooh, it's a tree on a heroic scale.
679
00:55:07,400 --> 00:55:09,639
But it started life as a rooted cutting.
680
00:55:09,640 --> 00:55:14,239
The count bought it in with lots of other exotics
that he'd collected and bought into the garden,
681
00:55:14,240 --> 00:55:16,039
and was grown in a pot, and admired.
682
00:55:16,040 --> 00:55:20,359
And it got bigger and bigger and then was planted out.
And it's never stopped growing.
683
00:55:20,360 --> 00:55:23,319
And at a rate that far exceeds
any other tree in the garden.
684
00:55:23,320 --> 00:55:27,520
And, in fact, most other trees altogether.
It is now just colossal.
685
00:55:28,640 --> 00:55:32,960
And it's very beautiful, and it's got
this lovely billowing silhouette.
686
00:55:42,200 --> 00:55:49,519
For all its brash ostentation, there are some secret
corners of Isola Bella that are less flamboyant,
687
00:55:49,520 --> 00:55:52,240
but to my mind, every bit as dramatic.
688
00:55:58,280 --> 00:56:03,360
The public aren't allowed into here.
I've been let in specially.
689
00:56:05,360 --> 00:56:08,359
And it's my favourite bit,
it's absolutely wonderful.
690
00:56:08,360 --> 00:56:11,879
These great buildings of green,
691
00:56:11,880 --> 00:56:17,920
and some of them are Camellia, and
these great pillows of azaleas.
692
00:56:19,280 --> 00:56:24,839
And there's Rhododendrons, so of course in
spring, that will just explode out into colour.
693
00:56:24,840 --> 00:56:29,079
I like it green, actually, I
love this austerity of colour
694
00:56:29,080 --> 00:56:33,159
and yet ambition on scale.
695
00:56:33,160 --> 00:56:36,079
And I think you come in and
immediately feel inspired
696
00:56:36,080 --> 00:56:39,200
and everything's lifted up a notch or two.
697
00:56:48,640 --> 00:56:53,599
Although there are marvellously elegant
and sculptural parts of the garden,
698
00:56:53,600 --> 00:56:59,239
from the south here and as you approach
by boat and look up at this view,
699
00:56:59,240 --> 00:57:01,840
what you see is totally brash.
700
00:57:03,200 --> 00:57:05,239
Totally kitsch.
701
00:57:05,240 --> 00:57:08,800
Completely without any taste at all.
702
00:57:09,600 --> 00:57:11,040
And I love it for that.
703
00:57:21,480 --> 00:57:27,319
Who could not love the way that Isola Bella
is an unashamed carnival of a garden?
704
00:57:27,320 --> 00:57:29,279
It's quintessentially baroque,
705
00:57:29,280 --> 00:57:33,279
and that desire to put on an outward
show is quintessentially Italian.
706
00:57:33,280 --> 00:57:36,279
Certainly I've never visited
any garden like it.
707
00:57:36,280 --> 00:57:41,679
And it feels like the perfect place to end
my tour of the great Italian gardens.
708
00:57:41,680 --> 00:57:48,039
Isola Bella is a performance, and it's kitsch
and it's brash and at times completely barmy,
709
00:57:48,040 --> 00:57:49,319
but I think it's heroic.
710
00:57:49,320 --> 00:57:55,119
But then, I think you must appreciate that gardens
fall under that Italian spell of bella figura.
711
00:57:55,120 --> 00:57:58,479
This need to create a good impression,
712
00:57:58,480 --> 00:58:02,679
to look really good, and it doesn't
really matter what's behind it.
713
00:58:02,680 --> 00:58:05,639
And travelling through
this beautiful country,
714
00:58:05,640 --> 00:58:09,720
seeing amazing gardens all
along the way, has been a joy.
715
00:58:19,280 --> 00:58:22,319
716
00:58:22,320 --> 00:58:25,360
66420
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