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(gentle music)
(birds chirping)
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For 5,000 years this land, Egypt,
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and the epic civilization it gave birth to
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has been shaped by one thing more than any other,
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this awesome river.
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The River Nile.
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(gentle majestic music)
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The Nile helped temples to rise,
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pharaohs to rule, and pyramids to be built.
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Without the Nile, there'd have been no ancient Egypt.
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So, I'm setting off on the historical journey of a lifetime,
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a 900-mile adventure, along the Nile,
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across the whole of Egypt.
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I'll explore Egypt's greatest achievements.
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It is truly wonderful, isn't it?
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And find treasures hidden for thousands of years.
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Oh, my God. That's a sheer drop down.
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This is my chance to travel this fabulous land.
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Oh, lovely!
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And experience it as the ancient Egyptians did,
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from the River Nile.
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From pharaohs to slaves, from facts to fantasies,
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I want to explore, first hand, and understand how this river
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shaped one of the world's first, and greatest civilizations.
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Join me as I uncover 5,000 years of history
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along the River Nile.
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(water splashing)
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(gentle music)
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For thousands of years,
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this river has been the lifeblood of Egypt.
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My first taste of the mighty Nile is its mouth.
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I've hitched a lift on this fishing boat
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to check out where the river meets the sea.
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(birds cawing)
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These boats are coming in from the Mediterranean
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because I'm right at the very mouth
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of the Nile on the delta.
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Since ancient times
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this has been Egypt's gateway to the world,
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and it was along these waters
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the world connected to a civilization
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that's had enormous influence on all our lives.
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For thousands of years the Nile has nourished culture,
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and civilization, and technology.
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But it's also been people's home.
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So over the next few weeks, I'm gonna be leaving the land
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and living on the water.
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I hope to be meeting old friends and perhaps making new ones
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so I can try to understand the power, and the secrets,
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and the stories of this historical dynamo.
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(upbeat music)
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My journey proper
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begins on the other side of the Nile Delta at Cairo,
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where the mass of streams and canals at the Nile's end
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come together to form one glorious river.
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From there, I'm sailing upstream
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using the river like a historical treasure map
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to investigate great sites
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and new discoveries from ancient Egypt.
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It's an adventure along Egypt's river artery,
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all the way to its border with Sudan.
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(children yelling)
(gentle music)
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But to do any of this,
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I'm gonna need more than just a fishing boat.
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Because I'm making a historical journey,
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my home for the next couple of weeks
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is gonna be a traditional boat
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that for centuries has sailed up and down the River Nile.
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It's this beautiful thing, a dahabeah.
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Part barge part sailboat,
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dahabeahs are unique to the shallow waters of the Nile.
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(chuckles) My goodness, this is absolutely huge.
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I wasn't expecting it to be so big. Hello.
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Hi!
Hi, are you Osama?
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Please. Nice to meet you.
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Thank you.
Welcome.
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Thank you so much.
Please.
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I will. Gosh, this is so beautiful.
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What an amazing boat.
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I've seen them in pictures, these,
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but I've never actually had a chance to sail on one before.
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Flat bottom boats like this have sailed up the Nile
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for thousands of years.
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In ancient Egypt,
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the symbol for any kind of a journey was a boat.
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This is our captain.
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Hi, the captain.
Hi, nice to meet you.
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Hi, I'm Bettany.
Welcome.
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Thank you.
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And this is your crew, is it?
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Yeah.
Hi, Gentlemen.
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Hi, gentlemen. Hi, I'm Bettany.
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The ancient Egyptians were a bit wary of ocean travel,
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but when it came to the Nile they were in their element.
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Let me show you you're cabin.
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Cruises on dahabeahs like this
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became popular 200 years ago,
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as modern-day travelers fell under Egypt's spell.
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It's pitch-black in here, everybody.
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I'll open the curtains for you.
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(gentle majestic music)
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Oh, my goodness.
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Hello, Nile. This is ridiculous.
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What am I gonna tell my husband and my kids when I get home?
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They think I'm working very hard.
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This is your private terrace.
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(chuckles) I've got my own little deck.
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Oh, it's not bad, Osama.
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I do really love this river.
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The river Nile is actually the father of all other river,
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all over the world.
Yes.
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This is what I think about the River Nile.
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Yeah, well, it just created a whole world,
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didn't it, the Nile?
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There's no doubt.
No. Amazing.
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And I'm going to explore its secrets.
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(gentle brooding music)
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One thing you learned quickly in Egypt
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is that it's smart to avoid the midday heat.
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So, as dawn arrives the crew get ready to depart.
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(dramatic music)
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And as the sun appears we're on our way.
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(majestic music)
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The Nile united ancient Egyptians from north to south
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and bank to bank.
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I want to try to understand these people,
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and the role this river played in all their lives.
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And I'll be exploring the land
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that first got me hooked on history.
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Whenever I go traveling I always take one of these,
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so I write notes on the places I've visited.
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I bring quotes from ancient authors and sometimes photos.
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But for this trip, I've been asked to include
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some photos of myself and there's a reason for this.
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I was five years old when I first saw the British Museum,
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and it's amazing Tutankhamun exhibition.
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That experience inspired me to write my first book.
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This is "My Busy Book", by Bettany.
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And this is my theory on why, and how, Tutankhamun died.
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"Tutankhamun was a long time ago.
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"He must have lots of men because he was rich,
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"and he was very, very nice.
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But one day some," spelled S-U-M,
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"mosquitoes, that were very germy, bit him, and he died.
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"Somebody buried the jewelry,
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"and made doors for the jewelry,
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"but after some men dug it up."
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Obviously, archeologists.
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"And lots and lots, and lots,
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"and lots of people went to the museum,
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"and on the television you can see it."
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(gentle pensive music)
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The story of Tutankhamun has captivated millions.
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He's one of the reasons I became a historian.
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I've been tipped off that this afternoon
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something rather extraordinary is happening.
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I've got an appointment
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with one of the world's leading Egyptologists
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at the Egyptian Museum.
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I can't tell you how much this is my happy place,
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because this museum is 5,000 square meters
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and it's absolutely jam-packed with artifacts.
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But even say there's not enough room for them all,
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so they have to be stored out here in the courtyard.
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(gentle upbeat music)
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This magnificent museum holds 120,000 Egyptian antiquities.
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Amongst them is the world's greatest collection
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of royal coffins.
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And this afternoon one of them is going to be opened
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for a very rare glimpse of the mummy inside.
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I think it's somewhere around here. I think.
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Hi, Salima?
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Hello!
Hi!
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Professor Salima Ikram and I
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share a passion for the story of Egypt.
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How lovely.
I'm so pleased
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that you could come.
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Salima is a world expert in mummification.
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And today I'm joining her team.
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Their subject is 3,400 years old.
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She's called Tjuyu
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and she's no less than the great grandmother of Tutankhamun.
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I've never actually seen her face. No, no.
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'Cause this has not been opened for ages.
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Salima needs to check on Tjuyu's body,
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so her glass cabinet is being opened.
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Her coffin lid will be removed.
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And for the first time in years,
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we'll be able to see her mummified.
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Oh, my goodness. My heart is actually beating faster.
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Why she's special inside, this is right,
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and it's supposed to be one of the
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best-preserved mummies.
It is. Absolutely.
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She is one of the best-preserved mummies that we have.
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This is Tjuyu.
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She was discovered two decades before her great-grandson.
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When we look at her face,
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do you think that could give us any genetic clues
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as to what Tutankhamun looked like?
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I think that would be quite possible
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especially because they've got
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the same set of teeth sticking out a bit.
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What's really extraordinary is that she's not born royal.
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There's a lot of social mobility.
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I mean, she starts off quite common, just as a priestess,
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and then she's in this splendid tomb
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with all of this gold and stuff.
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Amazing.
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Can you smell that?
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It smells like resins and incense.
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It does.
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So, look down here.
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That's actually the resins
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that are part of the mummification and burial ritual,
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and they were poured over, and some of them are still...
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You can see it must have been in a funny position
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because of the way it's dribbled.
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Wow.
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Can I just have a moment to get this millennia-old smell?
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That is amazing.
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This is closer than anyone normally gets to Tjuyu.
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Yeah, I think all of our conservators are ready.
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(Salima speaks in foreign language)
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It's time to see how the lady herself is faring.
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Okay. All right.
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(man speaks in foreign language)
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(dramatic sweeping music)
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Oh, my God!
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Look at her!
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She's magnificent.
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She's so tiny and so perfect.
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And look at her hair,
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she's got this beautiful, thick head of curly,
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kind of, strawberry blonde.
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Is that the original color?
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Well, we're not 100% sure,
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but when you're using natron which we use for mummification,
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it's a bleach.
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So it's like putting salt on your hair
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when you go to the beach.
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And look at her.
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She's got double pierced earrings.
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She has.
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She does have that Tutankhamun overbite.
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She's even more beautiful than in her pictures.
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By Tjuyu's time, mummification had been practiced
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for at least 1,200 years.
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That sophisticated process
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of preparing and preserving the body
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would have taken over two months to complete.
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We know that she's a really fine example of mummification.
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But how can you tell that?
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What here tells you this is
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a really, really, really good job?
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Well, I mean, it's a totally, beautifully
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well-preserved, recognizable face.
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Completely. You can see her eyebrows and cheekbones.
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Sometimes the nose goes a bit weird.
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Yeah, but, she's got a little bit of stuffing,
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she looks absolutely gorgeous.
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The ears are so well preserved,
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it's not broken, she's got her hair.
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The kind of wrapping,
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the individual wrapping of her tootsies is so perfect.
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The fact that she's wearing sandals,
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and really every care was taken with her.
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And from the smell, you can also tell
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that it was really good quality resins.
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Okay, look this is really cool. Okay.
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See? Look at her eyes.
Yeah.
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So what they did was,
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they lifted the lids up and then they put in pieces of cloth
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which they put a bit of resin onto
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and made them look like eyes,
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so that she can see things in her afterlife.
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Just look at that face.
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What she's seen, what she's lived through.
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The world that she experienced.
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My God, if she could talk, what she could tell us.
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Salima will now check that the humidity of the museum
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hasn't been affecting Tjuyu.
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But the signs are, that well into her fourth millennium,
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she's doing very well indeed.
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Just to be that close to her face
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it really makes you realize this was a woman, like me.
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A woman who's had children,
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who lived through a life,
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and was now going really happily through death
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to another world.
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And I think you've gotta remember that.
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That we think that mummies are something kind of grisly,
292
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and gruesome, and scary.
293
00:14:45,860 --> 00:14:48,340
But, for these people, this is the beginning
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of the best after-party.
295
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And whatever happened to her,
296
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I hope that Tjuyu has been enjoying herself.
297
00:14:58,229 --> 00:15:01,740
(gentle majestic music)
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The eternal afterlife, and the detailed preparations for it,
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make the ancient Egyptians endlessly fascinating.
300
00:15:11,560 --> 00:15:14,160
But they weren't death-obsessed.
301
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They were great lovers of life too.
302
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From the Nile's water levels to the sun's movement,
303
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and nature around them.
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They made detailed observations
305
00:15:27,410 --> 00:15:29,163
of the world that they lived in.
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I've brought something slightly bizarre with me.
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This is a replica of an ancient Egyptian hedgehog.
308
00:15:40,760 --> 00:15:43,030
The ancient Egyptians loved hedgehogs.
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They thought they were slightly magical
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because they hibernated
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and then seemed to come back to life.
312
00:15:47,680 --> 00:15:50,120
They were very resilient against snake bites,
313
00:15:50,120 --> 00:15:52,543
and so the hedgehog was a symbol of good luck.
314
00:15:54,000 --> 00:15:56,470
And for good luck traveling the Nile
315
00:15:56,470 --> 00:16:00,470
ancient boats would often carry an image of a hedgehog.
316
00:16:00,470 --> 00:16:04,080
So while my friend keeps an eye on the boat,
317
00:16:04,080 --> 00:16:07,100
I'm disembarking to investigate some monuments
318
00:16:07,100 --> 00:16:10,450
that combine the Egyptian fascination with death,
319
00:16:10,450 --> 00:16:13,582
with the pioneering work of living.
320
00:16:13,582 --> 00:16:17,060
(gentle sweeping music)
321
00:16:17,060 --> 00:16:19,570
It's difficult to imagine an ancient site
322
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more iconic than the pyramids of Giza.
323
00:16:23,890 --> 00:16:27,060
Just look at these incredible things.
324
00:16:27,060 --> 00:16:28,620
However many times I see them,
325
00:16:28,620 --> 00:16:32,370
I'm never not blown away by them.
326
00:16:32,370 --> 00:16:35,589
They just pound with human ambition.
327
00:16:35,589 --> 00:16:40,540
(gentle sweeping music continues)
328
00:16:40,540 --> 00:16:44,820
The west bank of the Nile boasts over 100 pyramids,
329
00:16:44,820 --> 00:16:47,720
but none are as famous as these.
330
00:16:47,720 --> 00:16:52,720
They've been astounding onlookers for 4,500 years.
331
00:16:52,900 --> 00:16:54,730
And recent discoveries
332
00:16:54,730 --> 00:16:58,263
mean we're finally able to appreciate them properly.
333
00:16:59,600 --> 00:17:02,590
We're so used to thinking these are desert monuments,
334
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in a desert landscape
335
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but when they were originally built
336
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it would've been completely different around here.
337
00:17:08,530 --> 00:17:11,400
So the Nile, now, is about five miles away.
338
00:17:11,400 --> 00:17:15,060
But at the time it came right up close to the pyramids.
339
00:17:15,060 --> 00:17:16,320
And when it flooded
340
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they'd have been reflected in its glittering surface.
341
00:17:21,930 --> 00:17:23,890
It's one of these structures, in particular,
342
00:17:23,890 --> 00:17:24,917
I've come to see.
343
00:17:26,080 --> 00:17:27,920
The Great Pyramid,
344
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the eternal resting place of the pharaoh Khufu.
345
00:17:32,130 --> 00:17:35,250
Scaling almost 500 feet,
346
00:17:35,250 --> 00:17:39,063
its completion set new levels for human achievement.
347
00:17:39,950 --> 00:17:44,950
It was the world's tallest structure for nearly 4,000 years.
348
00:17:47,610 --> 00:17:50,520
This is one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World,
349
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and it is the only one that is still standing intact.
350
00:17:55,570 --> 00:17:58,170
I'm obviously a huge fan of the ancient world
351
00:17:58,170 --> 00:17:59,690
and ancient civilizations,
352
00:17:59,690 --> 00:18:03,710
and there are many amazing things across the globe,
353
00:18:03,710 --> 00:18:07,283
but this, it is truly wonderful, isn't it?
354
00:18:08,460 --> 00:18:12,590
There are 2.3 million blocks of stone here,
355
00:18:12,590 --> 00:18:16,160
and each one has been perfectly sculpted
356
00:18:16,160 --> 00:18:19,580
so it fits right next to its neighbor.
357
00:18:19,580 --> 00:18:20,493
It's incredible.
358
00:18:25,470 --> 00:18:29,140
The Great Pyramid took two decades to complete.
359
00:18:29,140 --> 00:18:32,140
With its original polished, white limestone casing
360
00:18:32,140 --> 00:18:35,113
it would have gleamed out in the Egyptian sun.
361
00:18:36,390 --> 00:18:39,510
Exactly who built it, and how,
362
00:18:39,510 --> 00:18:42,883
has been the subject of wild speculation for centuries.
363
00:18:44,520 --> 00:18:46,200
It's been said that this was built
364
00:18:46,200 --> 00:18:51,190
by aliens from outer space, but, thank goodness,
365
00:18:51,190 --> 00:18:53,720
some new historical evidence has appeared
366
00:18:53,720 --> 00:18:55,400
that tells us without a doubt
367
00:18:55,400 --> 00:18:58,720
that this pyramid was made by human hand.
368
00:18:58,720 --> 00:19:01,663
And it's this remarkable thing.
369
00:19:04,230 --> 00:19:06,080
This is a copy of an ancient papyrus.
370
00:19:07,480 --> 00:19:11,400
Found just six years ago in a cave near the Red Sea,
371
00:19:11,400 --> 00:19:15,633
it's the 4,500-year-old journal of a man called Merer.
372
00:19:17,610 --> 00:19:22,160
Now, Merer was no less than a project manager
373
00:19:22,160 --> 00:19:24,170
for the Great Pyramid.
374
00:19:24,170 --> 00:19:27,340
There is remarkable detail in here.
375
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He's written down how they made this beautiful thing.
376
00:19:31,948 --> 00:19:33,423
Down here there's a little line that tells us
377
00:19:33,423 --> 00:19:35,700
that the limestone blocks that cover the pyramid,
378
00:19:35,700 --> 00:19:37,600
that made it that amazing gleaming white,
379
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were brought from 15 miles along the Nile.
380
00:19:41,550 --> 00:19:44,430
Merer says it takes one day's sail
381
00:19:44,430 --> 00:19:46,853
for this special stone to reach the site,
382
00:19:47,780 --> 00:19:50,420
confirming the Nile's crucial role
383
00:19:50,420 --> 00:19:52,593
in the pyramids' construction.
384
00:19:53,870 --> 00:19:57,210
It's really a thrilling time to be studying the pyramids.
385
00:19:57,210 --> 00:19:58,710
Professor Mark Lerner
386
00:19:58,710 --> 00:20:02,003
has spent his career investigating the Giza Plateau.
387
00:20:03,670 --> 00:20:06,190
So, if we'd been standing here 4,500 years ago
388
00:20:06,190 --> 00:20:09,177
what would be the landscape that we'd be looking at?
389
00:20:09,177 --> 00:20:11,330
You would have seen harbors and waterways.
390
00:20:11,330 --> 00:20:15,420
And Nile barges coming in from Aswan bringing granite.
391
00:20:15,420 --> 00:20:16,910
You would have seen seagoing ships
392
00:20:16,910 --> 00:20:19,340
coming in from Lebanon bringing timber.
393
00:20:19,340 --> 00:20:22,540
You would have had an multiethnic community here
394
00:20:22,540 --> 00:20:25,380
and not just men. Men, women, families.
395
00:20:25,380 --> 00:20:27,460
It was a busy bustling scene,
396
00:20:27,460 --> 00:20:30,850
with fires, and bakeries, and butchers.
397
00:20:30,850 --> 00:20:32,950
It's almost like a whole civilization culture,
398
00:20:32,950 --> 00:20:35,230
that's growing around the creation of the pyramid.
399
00:20:35,230 --> 00:20:36,900
They conscripted people
400
00:20:36,900 --> 00:20:40,200
from towns and villages all throughout Egypt.
401
00:20:40,200 --> 00:20:43,630
Then they come here and they are embedded and integrated
402
00:20:43,630 --> 00:20:47,663
into a project that involves tens of thousands of people.
403
00:20:48,630 --> 00:20:49,810
So, I'm still interested
404
00:20:49,810 --> 00:20:52,180
in how the Egyptians built the pyramids.
405
00:20:52,180 --> 00:20:54,310
But I'm almost more interested, Bettany,
406
00:20:54,310 --> 00:20:56,733
in how the pyramids helped to build Egypt.
407
00:20:59,260 --> 00:21:01,750
Building the world's first skyscraper
408
00:21:01,750 --> 00:21:05,283
was a transformational moment in human history.
409
00:21:06,410 --> 00:21:08,540
The city of workers that settled here
410
00:21:08,540 --> 00:21:12,160
collaborated in a game-changing way,
411
00:21:12,160 --> 00:21:13,460
and with Mark's help,
412
00:21:13,460 --> 00:21:16,150
I'm getting a privileged look behind the scenes,
413
00:21:16,150 --> 00:21:19,445
to get a glimpse of their remarkable world.
414
00:21:19,445 --> 00:21:22,660
(gentle majestic music)
415
00:21:22,660 --> 00:21:24,470
So, welcome to our field lab.
416
00:21:24,470 --> 00:21:28,510
Wow. Thank you so much for letting me in here.
417
00:21:28,510 --> 00:21:33,510
For the past 30 years, thousands of artifacts found at Giza
418
00:21:33,730 --> 00:21:36,000
have been brought here to be assessed
419
00:21:36,000 --> 00:21:38,983
and studied in the archeologists' storeroom.
420
00:21:40,260 --> 00:21:42,000
You can see it's much bigger
421
00:21:42,000 --> 00:21:44,440
than you would think from outside.
422
00:21:44,440 --> 00:21:47,290
One of the things we find all over the site
423
00:21:47,290 --> 00:21:49,920
are what we call dolerite hammerstones.
424
00:21:49,920 --> 00:21:51,507
Here.
425
00:21:51,507 --> 00:21:52,640
Oh!
(Bettany laughs)
426
00:21:52,640 --> 00:21:53,473
Yeah.
Oh!
427
00:21:53,473 --> 00:21:54,306
I knew it was gonna be heavy.
428
00:21:54,306 --> 00:21:55,139
I didn't know it was gonna be that heavy.
429
00:21:55,139 --> 00:21:57,150
That's actually straining my arms.
430
00:21:57,150 --> 00:21:58,876
Yeah.
That's like a cannonball.
431
00:21:58,876 --> 00:21:59,730
That's really heavy.
Well, when they started
432
00:21:59,730 --> 00:22:01,650
using it, it is like a cannonball.
433
00:22:01,650 --> 00:22:04,020
But when they started it was probably pear-shaped,
434
00:22:04,020 --> 00:22:07,310
and they just use it to smash stone surfaces away,
435
00:22:07,310 --> 00:22:09,330
and then they'll turn it, they keep turning it,
436
00:22:09,330 --> 00:22:11,630
so, in the end, they get kind of a ball shape.
437
00:22:12,590 --> 00:22:14,550
In Mark's latest excavation
438
00:22:14,550 --> 00:22:16,160
he's found remarkable evidence
439
00:22:16,160 --> 00:22:19,350
of how the people constructing the pyramid lived.
440
00:22:19,350 --> 00:22:20,910
And what they ate.
441
00:22:20,910 --> 00:22:23,210
We found this enormous dump,
442
00:22:23,210 --> 00:22:26,450
and it was so much animal bones sheep, and goat, and cattle.
443
00:22:26,450 --> 00:22:27,910
Yeah.
444
00:22:27,910 --> 00:22:30,730
And there was something very curious about it.
445
00:22:30,730 --> 00:22:34,570
Whenever we separate out the good meat bearing bones,
446
00:22:34,570 --> 00:22:36,780
we find that the ends are broken off.
447
00:22:36,780 --> 00:22:39,617
Two of our Egyptian field school students said,
448
00:22:39,617 --> 00:22:42,710
"Oh, that's easy. It's shorba kaware."
449
00:22:42,710 --> 00:22:46,780
Which is Arabic for like gelatine soup, knuckle bone soup,
450
00:22:46,780 --> 00:22:50,040
and the evidence is that somebody, elites,
451
00:22:50,040 --> 00:22:52,760
people of higher status, were eating the meat
452
00:22:52,760 --> 00:22:55,960
off the long, good meat bearing parts of the bone.
453
00:22:55,960 --> 00:22:59,390
But people of lower status are eating very high fat,
454
00:22:59,390 --> 00:23:01,603
high protein knuckle bone soup.
455
00:23:02,440 --> 00:23:04,250
Mark's found the casseroles
456
00:23:04,250 --> 00:23:05,823
this soup was served in.
457
00:23:05,823 --> 00:23:07,560
It's so beautiful, that.
458
00:23:07,560 --> 00:23:10,020
And even their bespoke stands.
459
00:23:10,020 --> 00:23:12,700
It's almost like a Tupperware set.
460
00:23:12,700 --> 00:23:13,720
So, actually, it seems like they're getting
461
00:23:13,720 --> 00:23:15,290
a pretty good diet.
462
00:23:15,290 --> 00:23:16,123
Indeed.
463
00:23:16,123 --> 00:23:16,956
That casserole is interesting
464
00:23:16,956 --> 00:23:18,900
'cause that's just like a family-size casserole.
465
00:23:18,900 --> 00:23:21,970
But are they mass-producing food as well?
466
00:23:21,970 --> 00:23:23,950
They were making your standard,
467
00:23:23,950 --> 00:23:27,970
average kitchen bread mold, and bread loaf.
468
00:23:27,970 --> 00:23:30,830
And then, if I may, over here.
469
00:23:30,830 --> 00:23:32,340
They were increasing it.
470
00:23:32,340 --> 00:23:34,800
They were reaching for economy of scale,
471
00:23:34,800 --> 00:23:37,438
by making these gigantic bread molds.
472
00:23:37,438 --> 00:23:38,460
Yeah, yeah.
473
00:23:38,460 --> 00:23:39,844
Take a feel.
474
00:23:39,844 --> 00:23:41,777
Oh, my gosh.
475
00:23:41,777 --> 00:23:43,840
That is quite a responsibility.
476
00:23:43,840 --> 00:23:44,780
You can have it back. Thank you.
477
00:23:44,780 --> 00:23:46,430
But the big picture here
478
00:23:46,430 --> 00:23:49,800
is that they didn't have bread factories.
479
00:23:49,800 --> 00:23:53,050
They were creating the world's first bread factory.
480
00:23:53,050 --> 00:23:55,290
It's all a long way from the stereotype
481
00:23:55,290 --> 00:23:59,900
of sweating slaves, toiling away under the pharaoh's whip.
482
00:23:59,900 --> 00:24:03,063
Even the tiniest finds are captivating.
483
00:24:04,550 --> 00:24:05,740
These are tubular beads.
484
00:24:05,740 --> 00:24:07,240
We find these beads everywhere.
485
00:24:07,240 --> 00:24:10,610
Look at the color. It's such a tiny little thing.
486
00:24:10,610 --> 00:24:12,000
But, I mean, who's wearing these?
487
00:24:12,000 --> 00:24:14,690
And we're finding them in the workers' barracks,
488
00:24:14,690 --> 00:24:17,150
right where we find all the big heavy dolerite pounders.
489
00:24:17,150 --> 00:24:18,900
So what, are you pounding stone
490
00:24:18,900 --> 00:24:20,570
as you're wearing your beaded nugget?
491
00:24:20,570 --> 00:24:21,740
We don't know.
492
00:24:21,740 --> 00:24:23,960
(gentle pensive music)
493
00:24:23,960 --> 00:24:26,810
Finds like these speak volumes,
494
00:24:26,810 --> 00:24:29,720
helping to jigsaw puzzle together a picture of life
495
00:24:29,720 --> 00:24:31,793
for those at the bottom of the pile.
496
00:24:34,420 --> 00:24:35,690
Upstream though,
497
00:24:35,690 --> 00:24:39,610
I'm about to witness the terrifying power of the pharaoh,
498
00:24:39,610 --> 00:24:44,533
as I adventure right inside a very special pyramid.
499
00:24:47,000 --> 00:24:50,417
(gentle sweeping music)
500
00:24:54,090 --> 00:24:56,930
So I've said goodbye to Cairo, and we're off,
501
00:24:56,930 --> 00:24:59,863
and it's 500 miles of the Nile to come.
502
00:25:01,780 --> 00:25:04,600
From here to the southern city of Aswan
503
00:25:04,600 --> 00:25:07,110
my riverboat will be following in the footsteps
504
00:25:07,110 --> 00:25:11,300
of pharaohs, warriors, and traders.
505
00:25:11,300 --> 00:25:15,240
But this journey was also made by tourists of the past,
506
00:25:15,240 --> 00:25:18,527
and their vessel of choice was the dahabeah.
507
00:25:20,869 --> 00:25:24,010
I'm still a bit embarrassed by the luxury of this boat,
508
00:25:24,010 --> 00:25:26,330
but, actually, it is quite appropriate
509
00:25:26,330 --> 00:25:29,284
for how people used to sail down the Nile.
510
00:25:29,284 --> 00:25:32,310
Dahabeah gets its name from the Arabic word dahab
511
00:25:32,310 --> 00:25:33,520
which means golden
512
00:25:33,520 --> 00:25:36,090
because these boats were supposed to be so luxurious.
513
00:25:36,090 --> 00:25:37,550
And we have amazing accounts
514
00:25:37,550 --> 00:25:41,250
of 18th and 19th-century travelers who used them.
515
00:25:41,250 --> 00:25:43,470
Let me just tell you of some things they brought on.
516
00:25:43,470 --> 00:25:47,440
So one packed 100 bottles of wine, champagne,
517
00:25:47,440 --> 00:25:49,500
a piano for entertainment
518
00:25:49,500 --> 00:25:51,240
and there was even a British family
519
00:25:51,240 --> 00:25:52,730
who brought their own cow
520
00:25:52,730 --> 00:25:55,901
so that they could have fresh milk every morning.
521
00:25:55,901 --> 00:25:57,550
(gentle music)
522
00:25:57,550 --> 00:26:00,260
These cruises could last for months
523
00:26:00,260 --> 00:26:03,220
on a river famed, from ancient times onwards,
524
00:26:03,220 --> 00:26:06,303
for its hidden and unexpected dangers.
525
00:26:07,890 --> 00:26:09,823
Hi, boys. Is everything okay?
526
00:26:14,130 --> 00:26:15,590
Oh, my God.
527
00:26:15,590 --> 00:26:18,650
There's somebody down in the Nile down here. Look.
528
00:26:21,450 --> 00:26:23,070
Two of them.
529
00:26:23,070 --> 00:26:24,414
What's happening, Mohammad?
530
00:26:24,414 --> 00:26:25,800
We have a very shallow water.
531
00:26:25,800 --> 00:26:26,633
Yeah.
532
00:26:26,633 --> 00:26:30,990
And one of the ropes go around the paddle.
533
00:26:30,990 --> 00:26:31,993
Okay.
534
00:26:33,060 --> 00:26:34,730
It seems that the tug boat
535
00:26:34,730 --> 00:26:36,920
that helps pull the dahabeah along
536
00:26:36,920 --> 00:26:40,340
has got stuck on one of the Nile's many sandbanks.
537
00:26:40,340 --> 00:26:43,303
Its tow rope is now wrapped around its propeller.
538
00:26:44,948 --> 00:26:46,780
(water splashing)
539
00:26:46,780 --> 00:26:48,010
Tim, our cameraman,
540
00:26:48,010 --> 00:26:50,260
he's decided to go in and see if he can help.
541
00:26:52,710 --> 00:26:55,460
(water bubbling)
542
00:27:00,355 --> 00:27:03,084
(water splashing)
543
00:27:03,084 --> 00:27:04,910
(gentle music)
544
00:27:04,910 --> 00:27:07,490
There's loads of people just doing that classic thing
545
00:27:07,490 --> 00:27:08,590
when something bad happens,
546
00:27:08,590 --> 00:27:10,440
they're just sort of standing around.
547
00:27:12,240 --> 00:27:14,160
The Nile is such a perilous river.
548
00:27:14,160 --> 00:27:16,613
So there are sandbanks and cataracts.
549
00:27:17,530 --> 00:27:19,883
But, isn't it interesting, that this can still happen?
550
00:27:20,820 --> 00:27:23,380
You get the feeling this isn't the first time
551
00:27:23,380 --> 00:27:25,630
the crew have dealt with something like this.
552
00:27:28,560 --> 00:27:32,080
It's all very new to us though, especially Tim.
553
00:27:32,080 --> 00:27:34,421
You know the funniest thing, Bettany?
554
00:27:34,421 --> 00:27:35,254
What?
555
00:27:36,140 --> 00:27:37,522
Like a plonker, I left my wallet.
556
00:27:37,522 --> 00:27:40,479
(both laughing)
557
00:27:40,479 --> 00:27:43,170
(gentle upbeat music)
558
00:27:43,170 --> 00:27:45,460
But with the propeller freed,
559
00:27:45,460 --> 00:27:49,713
and some British cash drying in the sun, we're on our way.
560
00:27:51,920 --> 00:27:53,810
10 miles south of Cairo,
561
00:27:53,810 --> 00:27:57,793
I'm heading to the fast royal burial ground of Saqqara.
562
00:27:59,090 --> 00:28:01,860
But first, there's just time to share with you
563
00:28:01,860 --> 00:28:04,090
one of the biggest breakthroughs ever
564
00:28:04,090 --> 00:28:06,513
in our understanding of ancient Egypt.
565
00:28:09,740 --> 00:28:11,920
The people who lived around the Nile valley
566
00:28:11,920 --> 00:28:15,890
were some of the very first to do an incredible thing.
567
00:28:15,890 --> 00:28:18,420
They put their spoken language into something
568
00:28:18,420 --> 00:28:20,910
that could be recorded, a writing,
569
00:28:20,910 --> 00:28:23,000
and of course, that's amazing for us historians
570
00:28:23,000 --> 00:28:26,040
because we get to understand their lives, and how they lived
571
00:28:26,040 --> 00:28:27,430
and what mattered to them.
572
00:28:27,430 --> 00:28:29,180
Now, of course, the language that they used
573
00:28:29,180 --> 00:28:32,040
was Egyptian hieroglyphics which is very beautiful,
574
00:28:32,040 --> 00:28:33,100
but the problem is
575
00:28:33,100 --> 00:28:36,653
that we lost the ability to translate it for centuries,
576
00:28:37,520 --> 00:28:40,180
which is one of the reasons that the ancient Egyptians
577
00:28:40,180 --> 00:28:43,110
were such a mysterious civilization.
578
00:28:43,110 --> 00:28:48,110
Then, in 1799, there was the most amazing discovery
579
00:28:48,670 --> 00:28:49,970
on the Nile Delta.
580
00:28:49,970 --> 00:28:51,033
It was this thing.
581
00:28:52,610 --> 00:28:55,090
This is the Rosetta Stone.
582
00:28:55,090 --> 00:28:58,750
In 1882 the real Rosetta Stone was snaffled by the Brits
583
00:28:58,750 --> 00:29:01,730
and ended up in the British Museum in London.
584
00:29:01,730 --> 00:29:03,100
Covered in writing
585
00:29:03,100 --> 00:29:07,490
it's been a vital key to understanding ancient Egypt.
586
00:29:07,490 --> 00:29:09,490
Because it's got two languages on it,
587
00:29:09,490 --> 00:29:13,550
so Egyptian and ancient Greek,
588
00:29:13,550 --> 00:29:17,560
it means it can act as a kind of codebreaker.
589
00:29:17,560 --> 00:29:18,420
The problem was, of course,
590
00:29:18,420 --> 00:29:20,350
that people could read ancient Greek
591
00:29:20,350 --> 00:29:22,930
but not the Egyptian hieroglyphics.
592
00:29:22,930 --> 00:29:26,440
And there was this race on between France and England
593
00:29:26,440 --> 00:29:29,090
to see who could crack the code first.
594
00:29:29,090 --> 00:29:31,440
Sorry to say the French won.
595
00:29:31,440 --> 00:29:35,220
And what they did was that they found this word, here,
596
00:29:35,220 --> 00:29:39,485
which in Greek says day of birth or birthday.
597
00:29:39,485 --> 00:29:40,485
"Genethlia."
598
00:29:42,500 --> 00:29:47,500
And they matched that up with this hieroglyphic here,
599
00:29:47,730 --> 00:29:49,750
which says birthday too.
600
00:29:49,750 --> 00:29:54,340
So at once, we could start to piece together
601
00:29:54,340 --> 00:29:57,723
the story of the ancient Egyptians in their own words.
602
00:29:58,980 --> 00:30:01,280
This is the thing that stopped the Egyptians
603
00:30:01,280 --> 00:30:03,860
being a mystery and meant that they were people
604
00:30:03,860 --> 00:30:06,983
that we could really get to know intimately.
605
00:30:07,880 --> 00:30:10,110
And there's a prime example of that
606
00:30:10,110 --> 00:30:12,119
at my next stop along the Nile.
607
00:30:12,119 --> 00:30:13,790
(mysterious upbeat music)
608
00:30:13,790 --> 00:30:16,150
They were building pyramids here at Saqqara
609
00:30:16,150 --> 00:30:18,253
a whole century before Giza.
610
00:30:19,130 --> 00:30:22,690
I've come to find one of Saqqara's hidden gems.
611
00:30:22,690 --> 00:30:25,740
And I'm gonna need some desert transport.
612
00:30:25,740 --> 00:30:26,620
Hello, sir.
613
00:30:26,620 --> 00:30:27,453
Hello, lady.
614
00:30:27,453 --> 00:30:28,743
Hi.
Hi. Nice to meet you.
615
00:30:28,743 --> 00:30:30,233
Nice to see you.
Hello!
616
00:30:30,233 --> 00:30:32,710
You and your beautiful camel.
617
00:30:32,710 --> 00:30:33,543
What's his name?
618
00:30:33,543 --> 00:30:34,682
Ramesses II.
619
00:30:34,682 --> 00:30:36,225
Ramesses II?
620
00:30:36,225 --> 00:30:38,240
So a very powerful pharaoh.
621
00:30:38,240 --> 00:30:39,650
How old?
10 years.
622
00:30:39,650 --> 00:30:41,020
10 years!
623
00:30:41,020 --> 00:30:43,640
Oh, you're so gorgeous, aren't you?
624
00:30:43,640 --> 00:30:45,750
Oh! Hello, darling!
Hello!
625
00:30:45,750 --> 00:30:46,583
Oh!
626
00:30:46,583 --> 00:30:48,430
Oh, lovely!
627
00:30:48,430 --> 00:30:49,867
Kiss you.
Kissing me,
628
00:30:49,867 --> 00:30:52,308
and a little bit of camel slobber in my ear.
629
00:30:52,308 --> 00:30:53,653
Yeah, of course.
I've missed that feeling.
630
00:30:53,653 --> 00:30:54,843
Hello!
631
00:30:54,843 --> 00:30:56,130
Yes. Oh!
632
00:30:56,130 --> 00:30:59,180
Oh and camel slobber on my cheek! That's beautiful.
633
00:30:59,180 --> 00:31:01,070
He's very, very lovely.
Thank you.
634
00:31:01,070 --> 00:31:04,120
But sadly I'm not gonna be going on this camel today.
635
00:31:04,120 --> 00:31:04,953
Thank you.
636
00:31:04,953 --> 00:31:06,397
Thank you so, so much.
You're welcome.
637
00:31:06,397 --> 00:31:07,340
I'd love to say
638
00:31:07,340 --> 00:31:09,660
that I'm doing this Lawrence of Arabia moment,
639
00:31:09,660 --> 00:31:11,940
gonna travel across the desert on a camel.
640
00:31:11,940 --> 00:31:15,080
But the problem is when the pyramids were first built,
641
00:31:15,080 --> 00:31:16,890
there were no camels here, we think.
642
00:31:16,890 --> 00:31:18,840
There's no evidence of them, there are no bones,
643
00:31:18,840 --> 00:31:20,680
there's no camels in hieroglyphs.
644
00:31:20,680 --> 00:31:23,960
It took another 2,000 years or so for them to come here,
645
00:31:23,960 --> 00:31:26,040
but at the time of the first pyramids,
646
00:31:26,040 --> 00:31:27,790
hello, good afternoon, sir.
647
00:31:27,790 --> 00:31:29,510
what you did have was a donkey.
648
00:31:29,510 --> 00:31:30,510
Hello!
Hello.
649
00:31:30,510 --> 00:31:31,691
Lovely to meet you.
Thank you.
650
00:31:31,691 --> 00:31:32,990
Lovely to see you.
651
00:31:32,990 --> 00:31:33,900
This morning,
652
00:31:33,900 --> 00:31:37,470
my authentic Bronze Age desert transport
653
00:31:37,470 --> 00:31:39,593
is called Whisky And Soda.
654
00:31:40,520 --> 00:31:41,740
I'm not sure they had stirrups then
655
00:31:41,740 --> 00:31:44,838
but, you know, in the name of security I can do this.
656
00:31:44,838 --> 00:31:46,381
One, two. Okay.
Okay. Two, three.
657
00:31:46,381 --> 00:31:47,214
Three.
Oh!
658
00:31:47,214 --> 00:31:48,709
Oh, oh! (laughs)
659
00:31:48,709 --> 00:31:51,700
Yeah, yeah. Okay?
Lovely. Oh, perfect.
660
00:31:51,700 --> 00:31:53,251
I'm excited! Shall we go? (speaks in foreign language)
661
00:31:53,251 --> 00:31:55,750
(man speaks in foreign language)
662
00:31:55,750 --> 00:31:57,200
Bye, Ramesses.
663
00:31:57,200 --> 00:31:58,800
See you in 2,000 years!
664
00:31:58,800 --> 00:31:59,763
Bye!
665
00:32:00,750 --> 00:32:03,520
Come on, darling. Up you go.
666
00:32:03,520 --> 00:32:05,710
Oh, she's great, isn't she? (laughs)
667
00:32:05,710 --> 00:32:08,460
She's just a natural historian. She wants to get there.
668
00:32:09,330 --> 00:32:12,770
This empty desert landscape would once have played host
669
00:32:12,770 --> 00:32:15,320
to massive funeral processions
670
00:32:15,320 --> 00:32:18,770
as dead pharaohs were carried to their show-off
671
00:32:18,770 --> 00:32:23,300
newly designed tombs, pyramids.
672
00:32:23,300 --> 00:32:26,613
This is the very first pyramid ever built.
673
00:32:28,894 --> 00:32:30,133
It's the Step Pyramid.
674
00:32:31,390 --> 00:32:33,490
So you've got a tomb laid out at the bottom,
675
00:32:33,490 --> 00:32:36,228
and then the pharaoh decided to build another one on top
676
00:32:36,228 --> 00:32:37,681
and another one and another one,
677
00:32:37,681 --> 00:32:41,380
so it becomes like some kind of massive wedding cake.
678
00:32:41,380 --> 00:32:44,110
Can see it as a kind of experiment, really.
679
00:32:44,110 --> 00:32:44,967
It's when they're going,
680
00:32:44,967 --> 00:32:47,217
"I'm the most powerful man on Earth.
681
00:32:47,217 --> 00:32:49,687
"Look at me! I can reach up to the sky.
682
00:32:49,687 --> 00:32:51,137
"I can reach up to the gods."
683
00:32:52,850 --> 00:32:56,830
What I've come to see, though, is another first for Egypt
684
00:32:56,830 --> 00:32:58,923
on the other side of the Step Pyramid.
685
00:33:00,110 --> 00:33:00,943
Thank you.
686
00:33:00,943 --> 00:33:02,750
Okay. Yeah.
Thank you, darling.
687
00:33:02,750 --> 00:33:04,086
You've been beautiful.
688
00:33:04,086 --> 00:33:06,960
(dramatic sweeping music)
689
00:33:06,960 --> 00:33:09,350
These are the sorry ruins of the pyramid
690
00:33:09,350 --> 00:33:11,593
built for the pharaoh Unas.
691
00:33:12,577 --> 00:33:13,820
People are being allowed back in here
692
00:33:13,820 --> 00:33:15,550
for the first time in two decades
693
00:33:15,550 --> 00:33:18,403
because it wasn't safe and there was restoration work done.
694
00:33:19,502 --> 00:33:24,320
When it was built 4,350 years ago,
695
00:33:24,320 --> 00:33:27,103
this was the smallest pyramid of its era.
696
00:33:28,330 --> 00:33:31,310
But it was a game-changer.
697
00:33:31,310 --> 00:33:32,940
This is an extra special treat for me
698
00:33:32,940 --> 00:33:34,330
because this is the first time
699
00:33:34,330 --> 00:33:35,320
since I've been coming to Egypt
700
00:33:35,320 --> 00:33:36,813
that I've been allowed in.
701
00:33:40,313 --> 00:33:41,458
Hi, how are you?
702
00:33:41,458 --> 00:33:42,291
I'm very good.
You're from where?
703
00:33:42,291 --> 00:33:43,960
London.
London, welcome.
704
00:33:43,960 --> 00:33:44,997
Nice to see you. Thank you.
705
00:33:44,997 --> 00:33:46,734
So you've got the key to go in?
706
00:33:46,734 --> 00:33:48,242
Yes.
Amazing. Thank you.
707
00:33:48,242 --> 00:33:50,710
(eerie music)
708
00:33:50,710 --> 00:33:55,673
The unique treasure of Unas' pyramid is found underneath it.
709
00:34:06,380 --> 00:34:09,031
Amazing. Thank you. (speaks in foreign language)
710
00:34:09,031 --> 00:34:11,420
Wow! Pitch-black in here.
711
00:34:14,550 --> 00:34:16,910
This 30-meter tunnel is leading me
712
00:34:16,910 --> 00:34:19,123
right under the center of the pyramid.
713
00:34:20,710 --> 00:34:24,520
Three granite slabs once blocked this passage,
714
00:34:24,520 --> 00:34:27,030
separating the outside world
715
00:34:27,030 --> 00:34:29,303
from the burial chambers of Unas.
716
00:34:31,630 --> 00:34:32,463
Oh, my goodness!
717
00:34:33,921 --> 00:34:36,043
This is so beautiful!
718
00:34:38,144 --> 00:34:40,853
I've seen pictures of this, but I've never been in here.
719
00:34:45,330 --> 00:34:46,900
Floor to ceiling,
720
00:34:46,900 --> 00:34:51,653
you've got the walls covered in hieroglyphs.
721
00:34:53,438 --> 00:34:57,287
Look at the state of them! They're so beautifully preserved.
722
00:34:58,610 --> 00:35:02,120
This was the first pyramid ever to be decorated
723
00:35:02,120 --> 00:35:04,913
in carved hieroglyphic writing.
724
00:35:06,450 --> 00:35:08,810
Ritual spells for the dead.
725
00:35:10,506 --> 00:35:15,000
Unas was I'd say a man with quite an ego,
726
00:35:15,000 --> 00:35:18,620
and we can tell this here because this is his name.
727
00:35:18,620 --> 00:35:22,380
So here this is the name of Unas.
728
00:35:22,380 --> 00:35:24,100
It's in what's called a cartouche,
729
00:35:24,100 --> 00:35:25,380
which is French for a bullet.
730
00:35:25,380 --> 00:35:26,660
It's a kind of bullet-shaped thing.
731
00:35:26,660 --> 00:35:29,480
And once you start to look (laughs)
732
00:35:29,480 --> 00:35:33,320
you can see the name of Unas absolutely everywhere!
733
00:35:33,320 --> 00:35:37,563
So it's Unas, Unas, Unas, Unas, Unas. It just goes on.
734
00:35:38,769 --> 00:35:40,140
And I don't know if you can see here,
735
00:35:40,140 --> 00:35:42,630
there's another symbol that keeps on appearing.
736
00:35:42,630 --> 00:35:44,490
It's these waves of water.
737
00:35:44,490 --> 00:35:47,840
So there are two here. There's one here.
738
00:35:47,840 --> 00:35:51,140
There's one here, there's one here, there's one here.
739
00:35:51,140 --> 00:35:54,830
The importance of water and rivers couldn't be clearer.
740
00:35:54,830 --> 00:35:56,927
One spell even claims,
741
00:35:56,927 --> 00:36:01,627
"Unas is he who has caused the land to be underwater."
742
00:36:02,520 --> 00:36:04,500
Not only did Unas tell us
743
00:36:04,500 --> 00:36:05,930
that he was the most powerful king,
744
00:36:05,930 --> 00:36:10,060
but that he had divine powers, and what he's saying here
745
00:36:10,060 --> 00:36:15,060
is that it's him who caused the Nile itself to flood.
746
00:36:15,230 --> 00:36:19,000
These hieroglyphs don't always make for pleasant reading.
747
00:36:19,000 --> 00:36:20,770
They show that the ancient Egyptians
748
00:36:20,770 --> 00:36:24,310
often blended brilliance with brutality.
749
00:36:24,310 --> 00:36:26,810
He says that he holds the hearts of his enemies
750
00:36:26,810 --> 00:36:30,810
in his fingers, that he burns their houses to the ground.
751
00:36:30,810 --> 00:36:32,053
But there's something else,
752
00:36:32,053 --> 00:36:35,040
and, actually, if you read it, it's really shocking.
753
00:36:35,040 --> 00:36:36,860
It's really upsetting
754
00:36:36,860 --> 00:36:40,460
because it's Unas using his sex a weapon.
755
00:36:40,460 --> 00:36:43,660
It says that Unas copulates with his penis.
756
00:36:43,660 --> 00:36:46,050
Unas is lord of his seed.
757
00:36:46,050 --> 00:36:50,190
Unas takes the wives of husbands whenever he wants,
758
00:36:50,190 --> 00:36:53,103
whenever his heart desires.
759
00:36:53,980 --> 00:36:55,840
This is not a man
760
00:36:55,840 --> 00:36:58,830
that I would have liked to have met in the flesh,
761
00:36:58,830 --> 00:37:00,700
and it seems as though he's no longer here,
762
00:37:00,700 --> 00:37:02,620
we don't have his body,
763
00:37:02,620 --> 00:37:05,830
but there's something that's recently been discovered.
764
00:37:05,830 --> 00:37:09,743
That if you look on the wall,
765
00:37:09,743 --> 00:37:12,380
don't know if you can see that,
766
00:37:12,380 --> 00:37:15,850
there indented in is the ghost of Unas.
767
00:37:16,800 --> 00:37:19,136
So he's still here with us.
768
00:37:19,136 --> 00:37:21,805
(gentle mysterious music)
769
00:37:21,805 --> 00:37:26,347
Unas has left a mighty legacy and, along the Nile,
770
00:37:26,347 --> 00:37:30,500
there are other treasures that are still as vibrant today
771
00:37:30,500 --> 00:37:33,253
as they have been for thousands of years.
772
00:37:36,290 --> 00:37:39,673
The River Nile has always been the lifeblood of Egypt,
773
00:37:40,760 --> 00:37:43,180
and I'm exploring the sites and the people
774
00:37:43,180 --> 00:37:46,623
who made up a great civilization along its banks.
775
00:37:49,330 --> 00:37:52,403
The many sites and treasures around Cairo are behind me.
776
00:37:53,282 --> 00:37:57,849
And this is my first taste of a much quieter river.
777
00:37:57,849 --> 00:38:01,432
(majestic sweeping music)
778
00:38:02,343 --> 00:38:04,490
Is that okay? (speaks in foreign language)
779
00:38:04,490 --> 00:38:05,323
Are you sure?
780
00:38:06,367 --> 00:38:08,570
Bakkar has been working on dahabeahs
781
00:38:08,570 --> 00:38:10,483
since he was 12 years old.
782
00:38:11,920 --> 00:38:13,623
I've done a bit of sailing too,
783
00:38:14,560 --> 00:38:16,250
but never anything like this.
784
00:38:16,250 --> 00:38:21,250
So I'm sort of hopelessly trying to help with the tiller.
785
00:38:21,330 --> 00:38:22,830
It's quite hard, this river.
786
00:38:22,830 --> 00:38:25,040
It's a difficult river to sail on.
787
00:38:25,040 --> 00:38:25,873
Yes.
788
00:38:26,870 --> 00:38:28,173
So how old are you?
789
00:38:28,173 --> 00:38:29,410
(Bakkar speaks in foreign language)
790
00:38:29,410 --> 00:38:30,660
And the rest of your family
791
00:38:30,660 --> 00:38:32,542
have all worked on boats, have they?
792
00:38:32,542 --> 00:38:35,220
(Bakkar speaks in foreign language)
793
00:38:35,220 --> 00:38:36,220
Okay.
794
00:38:36,220 --> 00:38:38,189
Is it your plan to become a captain?
795
00:38:38,189 --> 00:38:39,022
Yes.
796
00:38:39,022 --> 00:38:40,770
Very good!
Yes.
797
00:38:40,770 --> 00:38:42,480
We are actually heading into the bank now.
798
00:38:42,480 --> 00:38:44,150
Sorry, I'm really sorry!
799
00:38:44,150 --> 00:38:46,180
I was pulling the wrong rope!
800
00:38:46,180 --> 00:38:49,090
This is getting us in the right direction, isn't it?
801
00:38:49,090 --> 00:38:50,275
Good.
802
00:38:50,275 --> 00:38:51,108
Argh!
803
00:38:52,653 --> 00:38:54,830
2,500 years ago,
804
00:38:54,830 --> 00:38:58,063
Egypt was described as the gift of the Nile.
805
00:38:59,933 --> 00:39:01,733
And that's not changed.
806
00:39:03,280 --> 00:39:05,823
Life just bursts out of the banks.
807
00:39:07,600 --> 00:39:09,990
You can see why the ancients called Egypt
808
00:39:09,990 --> 00:39:12,027
the red land for the desert
809
00:39:12,027 --> 00:39:15,903
and the black land for the fertile strips along the river.
810
00:39:18,290 --> 00:39:21,300
This is a really lovely typical Nile scene
811
00:39:21,300 --> 00:39:24,330
with farm animals and palm trees and reeds
812
00:39:24,330 --> 00:39:25,320
and, actually, if you start to look,
813
00:39:25,320 --> 00:39:27,420
you'll see that there are people everywhere
814
00:39:27,420 --> 00:39:30,870
because, in Egypt, 96% of the population
815
00:39:30,870 --> 00:39:33,430
live near or next to the Nile.
816
00:39:33,430 --> 00:39:36,980
And that's because there's just so little waterfall here.
817
00:39:36,980 --> 00:39:41,893
This river really is the source of life for Egypt.
818
00:39:42,910 --> 00:39:45,580
And, actually, the water in this river,
819
00:39:45,580 --> 00:39:48,660
almost all of it comes from 1,500 miles south
820
00:39:48,660 --> 00:39:50,693
in the Ethiopian Highlands.
821
00:39:52,310 --> 00:39:55,880
For thousands of years, the rainy season in the Highlands
822
00:39:55,880 --> 00:39:58,233
led to Egypt's annual flood.
823
00:39:59,660 --> 00:40:01,890
By late summer, the water level here
824
00:40:01,890 --> 00:40:06,793
could have risen eight or nine meters, feeding the valley.
825
00:40:09,132 --> 00:40:11,799
(upbeat music)
826
00:40:13,260 --> 00:40:16,180
It was food nourished by the Nile
827
00:40:16,180 --> 00:40:18,793
that powered a great civilization.
828
00:40:20,030 --> 00:40:22,380
And the crew have tipped me off that right now
829
00:40:22,380 --> 00:40:25,840
is the time for harvesting an ancient Egyptian crop
830
00:40:25,840 --> 00:40:30,840
still being fed by the Nile's waters, dates.
831
00:40:30,910 --> 00:40:35,850
They've been cultivating dates here for over 6,000 years,
832
00:40:35,850 --> 00:40:39,070
always fed by the waters of the Nile.
833
00:40:39,070 --> 00:40:42,140
The ancient Egyptians used dates for everything.
834
00:40:42,140 --> 00:40:45,360
For building, for furniture, for food,
835
00:40:45,360 --> 00:40:48,000
for magic, for medicine,
836
00:40:48,000 --> 00:40:52,615
and it was said that the date was the bread of the desert.
837
00:40:52,615 --> 00:40:55,282
(gentle music)
838
00:40:56,360 --> 00:40:59,970
From Stone Age coffins made of date palm leaves
839
00:41:01,100 --> 00:41:04,993
to dates themselves left as offerings in the Step Pyramid,
840
00:41:06,140 --> 00:41:08,643
and even for Tutankhamun himself.
841
00:41:12,170 --> 00:41:15,730
This fruit has been the superfood of ancient Egypt
842
00:41:15,730 --> 00:41:17,303
since the very beginning.
843
00:41:18,430 --> 00:41:20,610
The reason is simple,
844
00:41:20,610 --> 00:41:24,353
dates can be dried, stored, and carried across the desert.
845
00:41:25,860 --> 00:41:27,790
In bad times as well as good,
846
00:41:27,790 --> 00:41:30,973
dates have kept this civilization going.
847
00:41:32,370 --> 00:41:35,053
They're a super-food in the modern sense, too.
848
00:41:35,960 --> 00:41:38,570
they're full of fiber and potassium
849
00:41:38,570 --> 00:41:41,740
and, it's said, can even lower blood pressure.
850
00:41:41,740 --> 00:41:43,337
Morning, girls.
851
00:41:43,337 --> 00:41:46,140
But if you want to taste a truly fresh date,
852
00:41:46,140 --> 00:41:47,990
you've gotta be here at harvest time.
853
00:41:49,373 --> 00:41:51,480
Eat it? Is it nice?
854
00:41:51,480 --> 00:41:54,500
Okay, here we go. First fresh date.
855
00:41:54,500 --> 00:41:55,373
Slightly grubby.
856
00:41:57,580 --> 00:41:58,413
Hoo-hoo!
857
00:41:59,930 --> 00:42:01,373
No, not sweet.
858
00:42:03,130 --> 00:42:05,260
Quite bitter, but very good.
859
00:42:05,260 --> 00:42:07,550
Very nice and completely white on the inside.
860
00:42:07,550 --> 00:42:09,119
Thank you. (speaks in foreign language) ladies.
861
00:42:09,119 --> 00:42:10,593
(Bettany speaks in foreign language)
862
00:42:10,593 --> 00:42:14,010
(gentle sweeping music)
863
00:42:16,520 --> 00:42:20,730
The date harvest was always an excuse for a good time,
864
00:42:20,730 --> 00:42:23,510
for weddings and family get-togethers,
865
00:42:23,510 --> 00:42:25,363
and it's still the case today.
866
00:42:27,520 --> 00:42:28,353
Well done.
867
00:42:28,353 --> 00:42:30,640
And he's learning. You're teaching him.
868
00:42:30,640 --> 00:42:32,779
Yeah.
Be a good captain one day.
869
00:42:32,779 --> 00:42:33,696
You will.
870
00:42:34,750 --> 00:42:37,833
Tonight, some of the crew have invited me to join them.
871
00:42:39,480 --> 00:42:41,480
This looks delicious. Have you got some?
872
00:42:42,816 --> 00:42:45,720
For a feast of traditional dishes.
873
00:42:45,720 --> 00:42:46,649
Is this hummus?
874
00:42:46,649 --> 00:42:48,610
I love this.
Yeah, hummus.
875
00:42:48,610 --> 00:42:51,460
We think that we invented the idea of superfoods.
876
00:42:51,460 --> 00:42:54,190
I love the notion that the ancient Egyptians
877
00:42:54,190 --> 00:42:55,880
actually got there first.
878
00:42:55,880 --> 00:42:59,120
And in a way, the date was the fuel
879
00:42:59,120 --> 00:43:02,050
of ancient Egyptian civilization
880
00:43:02,050 --> 00:43:05,120
and whether you were an all-powerful pharaoh
881
00:43:05,120 --> 00:43:07,770
or one of those workers who labored away
882
00:43:07,770 --> 00:43:09,500
to build the Giza pyramids,
883
00:43:09,500 --> 00:43:13,500
you knew that you lived in a land of plenty,
884
00:43:13,500 --> 00:43:17,120
and we know that on beautiful nights like this
885
00:43:17,120 --> 00:43:21,140
under a full moon, men and women would get together
886
00:43:21,140 --> 00:43:25,253
to share and celebrate the gifts of the Nile,
887
00:43:26,090 --> 00:43:27,053
as we are tonight.
888
00:43:27,930 --> 00:43:30,953
I can't eat another date, I've had so many! (laughs)
889
00:43:30,953 --> 00:43:31,786
It's nice.
890
00:43:31,786 --> 00:43:34,223
I know, it is better for you than the biscuit.
891
00:43:37,040 --> 00:43:41,913
Next time, I'm on the trail of Cleopatra.
892
00:43:42,970 --> 00:43:45,690
I'll brave the longest tomb in Egypt.
893
00:43:45,690 --> 00:43:48,590
The only thing I don't like are small dark spaces.
894
00:43:48,590 --> 00:43:49,423
Excuse me.
895
00:43:50,550 --> 00:43:51,647
Thank you.
896
00:43:51,647 --> 00:43:54,290
And I'll discover how mummification
897
00:43:54,290 --> 00:43:56,230
wasn't just for humans.
898
00:43:56,230 --> 00:44:00,914
Its eye-sockets are staring at me across 2,000 years.
899
00:44:00,914 --> 00:44:04,331
(gentle majestic music)
68271
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