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1
00:00:17,440 --> 00:00:19,920
In Southeast Alaska,
2
00:00:19,960 --> 00:00:22,920
where the coastal mountains
meet the Pacific,
3
00:00:22,960 --> 00:00:26,880
lies the Alexander Archipelago,
4
00:00:26,920 --> 00:00:29,280
a remote island chain...
5
00:00:30,760 --> 00:00:32,640
running for almost 300 miles
6
00:00:32,680 --> 00:00:34,560
along the Alaskan Panhandle.
7
00:00:39,680 --> 00:00:43,120
Defended by ramparts of rock
and ice to the east...
8
00:00:46,680 --> 00:00:50,360
with 3,000 miles of ocean
to the west...
9
00:00:53,120 --> 00:00:54,960
this frozen frontier
10
00:00:55,000 --> 00:00:57,800
is one of the last
great wildernesses
11
00:00:57,840 --> 00:00:59,200
of North America.
12
00:01:03,760 --> 00:01:07,280
This is part of the
largest temperate rainforest
13
00:01:07,320 --> 00:01:08,520
on Earth...
14
00:01:11,520 --> 00:01:13,840
and a stronghold
for the country's
15
00:01:13,880 --> 00:01:16,640
highest diversity
of megafauna...
16
00:01:22,400 --> 00:01:25,560
BELLOWING
17
00:01:27,600 --> 00:01:29,520
...feasting on the abundance
18
00:01:29,560 --> 00:01:31,440
of fleeting summers...
19
00:01:32,720 --> 00:01:36,120
to make it through
relentless winters.
20
00:01:36,160 --> 00:01:37,360
ROARING
21
00:01:37,400 --> 00:01:38,800
Both big...
22
00:01:39,640 --> 00:01:41,200
and small...
23
00:01:42,760 --> 00:01:45,640
live here in perfect balance.
24
00:01:48,040 --> 00:01:50,200
Their worlds connected
25
00:01:50,240 --> 00:01:51,280
in surprising
26
00:01:51,320 --> 00:01:53,840
and intricate ways...
27
00:01:55,360 --> 00:01:56,960
that allow each of them...
28
00:01:58,000 --> 00:01:59,720
to thrive.
29
00:02:05,720 --> 00:02:09,680
There are still places on Earth
that remain pristine.
30
00:02:12,200 --> 00:02:14,520
Where wildlife flourishes.
31
00:02:16,000 --> 00:02:19,600
These are the last regions
that could be called...
32
00:02:21,120 --> 00:02:22,160
Eden.
33
00:02:40,160 --> 00:02:41,760
For six months of the year,
34
00:02:43,040 --> 00:02:45,960
North America's
icy mountain realm
35
00:02:46,000 --> 00:02:47,920
is gripped by winter.
36
00:02:50,920 --> 00:02:52,320
With the arrival of spring,
37
00:02:53,320 --> 00:02:55,400
life stirs once more...
38
00:02:56,600 --> 00:02:57,880
BEAR GROWLS
39
00:02:57,920 --> 00:02:59,240
...as the world's
40
00:02:59,280 --> 00:03:00,760
largest population
41
00:03:00,800 --> 00:03:02,280
of grizzly bears
42
00:03:02,320 --> 00:03:05,560
emerge from hibernation.
43
00:03:11,520 --> 00:03:14,240
A mother with hungry cubs
must hurry
44
00:03:15,200 --> 00:03:18,280
to make the most
of brief times of plenty
45
00:03:19,520 --> 00:03:23,440
in this unspoiled, untamed land.
46
00:03:43,080 --> 00:03:45,960
In spring,
the best feeding opportunities
47
00:03:46,000 --> 00:03:47,600
can be found
where it's milder...
48
00:03:48,440 --> 00:03:49,960
along the coast.
49
00:03:54,760 --> 00:03:58,040
Telltale footprints
signal the arrival...
50
00:03:59,960 --> 00:04:03,160
of newly-emerged
grizzly bear families.
51
00:04:05,880 --> 00:04:08,440
After six months of hibernation,
52
00:04:08,480 --> 00:04:10,880
this female and her cubs
53
00:04:10,920 --> 00:04:13,840
are in need of a protein hit.
54
00:04:19,400 --> 00:04:24,200
Twice a day, low tide exposes
a seafood smorgasbord.
55
00:04:36,320 --> 00:04:38,400
A fresh fish looks tasty...
56
00:04:40,200 --> 00:04:42,400
but defensive spines
57
00:04:42,440 --> 00:04:45,280
mean it's probably best avoided.
58
00:04:52,120 --> 00:04:54,520
Betrayed by their squirts,
59
00:04:54,560 --> 00:04:57,480
the real prize
is the butter clam.
60
00:05:01,600 --> 00:05:04,200
Surprisingly delicate paw-work
61
00:05:04,240 --> 00:05:07,200
prevents the clam
digging deeper.
62
00:05:09,600 --> 00:05:11,840
Now, add brute force...
63
00:05:12,960 --> 00:05:16,720
GRUNTING
64
00:05:18,160 --> 00:05:20,760
Et voila! A clam canapé.
65
00:05:30,840 --> 00:05:32,520
But when you smell a clam...
66
00:05:35,280 --> 00:05:36,720
and can't find it...
67
00:05:42,680 --> 00:05:45,080
it can be frustrating.
68
00:05:51,920 --> 00:05:53,880
But if you copy
mum's technique...
69
00:05:56,600 --> 00:05:57,880
it should work.
70
00:06:06,640 --> 00:06:08,560
Or you could just
use your teeth...
71
00:06:10,600 --> 00:06:12,880
but there may be
some shell in that.
72
00:06:17,520 --> 00:06:20,320
SEABIRDS SQUAWKING
73
00:06:24,280 --> 00:06:26,400
But bears patrol the coast
74
00:06:26,440 --> 00:06:28,880
in search of something
other than food.
75
00:06:34,520 --> 00:06:35,760
ROARS
76
00:06:35,800 --> 00:06:37,920
His cowboy swagger
77
00:06:37,960 --> 00:06:40,200
denotes a dominant male...
78
00:06:41,720 --> 00:06:44,800
all 700 pounds of him.
79
00:06:44,840 --> 00:06:49,000
OTHER BEARS BARKING
80
00:06:58,040 --> 00:07:00,920
And he's keen to
kick off the breeding season.
81
00:07:05,280 --> 00:07:07,520
But a mother with yearling cubs
82
00:07:07,560 --> 00:07:10,200
is in no mood to mate.
83
00:07:12,160 --> 00:07:14,440
ROARS
84
00:07:24,880 --> 00:07:26,800
A grizzly can hit a top speed
85
00:07:26,840 --> 00:07:29,080
of around 35 miles an hour.
86
00:07:37,120 --> 00:07:39,160
Males may kill cubs
87
00:07:39,200 --> 00:07:40,920
to bring a female into season.
88
00:07:47,600 --> 00:07:49,440
But all that muscle mass...
89
00:07:49,480 --> 00:07:52,240
BEARS GROWLING
90
00:07:52,280 --> 00:07:54,640
...makes it hard
to keep up the pace.
91
00:07:54,680 --> 00:07:58,560
GROWLING
92
00:08:08,520 --> 00:08:11,960
With this overeager
male safely out of reach...
93
00:08:14,400 --> 00:08:17,120
the young family
can make the most...
94
00:08:17,800 --> 00:08:20,240
SNIFFING
95
00:08:20,280 --> 00:08:21,280
GROWLS SOFTLY
96
00:08:21,800 --> 00:08:23,120
...of this Eden's other
97
00:08:23,160 --> 00:08:25,240
spring feeding ground...
98
00:08:33,120 --> 00:08:34,880
sedge grass meadows.
99
00:08:42,240 --> 00:08:45,160
While the succulent shoots
provide few calories,
100
00:08:46,320 --> 00:08:48,240
they'll tide a hungry bear over.
101
00:08:57,760 --> 00:09:00,680
Even the cubs are happy
to eat their greens.
102
00:09:08,000 --> 00:09:10,440
But they still prefer
mum's milk.
103
00:09:14,680 --> 00:09:17,560
She'll nurse them
for nearly two years...
104
00:09:23,200 --> 00:09:26,360
all the while
teaching them the dangers
105
00:09:26,400 --> 00:09:28,360
and rewards
106
00:09:28,400 --> 00:09:31,480
that come with
this bountiful Eden.
107
00:09:51,160 --> 00:09:53,000
Triggered by spring sunshine...
108
00:09:56,240 --> 00:09:58,640
the first boom
in productivity...
109
00:10:00,960 --> 00:10:02,840
takes place offshore...
110
00:10:03,640 --> 00:10:05,880
SEABIRDS SQUAWKING
111
00:10:05,920 --> 00:10:08,200
...as a vast
injection of protein...
112
00:10:09,840 --> 00:10:12,520
turns the waters
a milky white...
113
00:10:15,040 --> 00:10:16,760
with herring spawn.
114
00:10:16,800 --> 00:10:19,400
SEABIRDS SQUAWKING
115
00:10:21,080 --> 00:10:22,760
Hundreds of millions of fish
116
00:10:22,800 --> 00:10:24,800
gather in the shallows to breed.
117
00:10:29,440 --> 00:10:33,440
Each hen fish releasing
20,000 eggs.
118
00:10:40,120 --> 00:10:42,840
For resident
Steller's sea lions,
119
00:10:42,880 --> 00:10:46,040
it's the first great feeding
opportunity of the year.
120
00:10:52,960 --> 00:10:55,120
Flying 9,000 miles,
121
00:10:55,160 --> 00:10:57,320
one of the longest
bird migrations,
122
00:10:58,200 --> 00:11:00,400
tens of thousands of red knots
123
00:11:00,440 --> 00:11:02,640
arrive from South America...
124
00:11:05,320 --> 00:11:07,720
to take advantage of a feast...
125
00:11:12,160 --> 00:11:16,280
that's also the cue
for marine megafauna.
126
00:11:23,920 --> 00:11:26,640
It's one of the greatest
gatherings of whales
127
00:11:26,680 --> 00:11:27,840
on the planet.
128
00:11:40,440 --> 00:11:43,760
45-foot-long gray whales.
129
00:11:51,240 --> 00:11:54,080
Mothers with newborn calves
130
00:11:54,120 --> 00:11:56,320
have navigated 6,000 miles
131
00:11:56,360 --> 00:11:58,120
from Baja, Mexico.
132
00:12:00,160 --> 00:12:04,680
The longest seasonal journey
of any mammal.
133
00:12:06,720 --> 00:12:08,160
But it's worth it.
134
00:12:09,920 --> 00:12:13,400
In vast mouthfuls
of fatty roe and krill,
135
00:12:14,120 --> 00:12:17,200
each consumes
more than a ton a day.
136
00:12:24,480 --> 00:12:26,920
And so,
the smallest creatures here...
137
00:12:28,520 --> 00:12:30,280
sustain the biggest...
138
00:12:38,920 --> 00:12:41,400
enabling gray whale calves
139
00:12:41,440 --> 00:12:45,160
to put on a third
of their adult body weight
140
00:12:45,200 --> 00:12:48,520
before their autumn return
to the south.
141
00:13:03,280 --> 00:13:05,800
In spring, life also stirs
142
00:13:05,840 --> 00:13:09,080
in this pristine forest
that crowds the shoreline.
143
00:13:12,000 --> 00:13:14,400
Covering 17 million acres,
144
00:13:14,440 --> 00:13:16,960
roughly the size
of West Virginia,
145
00:13:18,680 --> 00:13:21,560
it's part of the largest tract
146
00:13:21,600 --> 00:13:24,680
of temperate rainforest
on Earth.
147
00:13:29,040 --> 00:13:32,560
Bathed in 100 inches of rain
a year...
148
00:13:37,280 --> 00:13:39,920
each 700-year-old spruce
149
00:13:39,960 --> 00:13:42,520
may carry 500 pounds
150
00:13:42,560 --> 00:13:45,520
of moisture-loving lichen,
mosses,
151
00:13:45,560 --> 00:13:47,880
and ferns on its branches.
152
00:13:56,040 --> 00:13:59,320
It's one of the last places
in North America...
153
00:14:02,080 --> 00:14:03,280
where prey...
154
00:14:05,200 --> 00:14:06,680
and predators
155
00:14:06,720 --> 00:14:08,840
exist in equilibrium.
156
00:14:15,160 --> 00:14:16,720
SCREECHES
157
00:14:18,360 --> 00:14:22,000
Early migrants, like
rufous hummingbirds, arrive.
158
00:14:23,640 --> 00:14:25,560
The climate here is perfect
159
00:14:25,600 --> 00:14:27,600
for sap-rich trees to grow.
160
00:14:30,200 --> 00:14:33,400
So it's worth
a 4,000-mile journey.
161
00:14:35,040 --> 00:14:37,880
They refuel on the sugary resin
162
00:14:38,800 --> 00:14:41,120
before pairing up to breed
163
00:14:41,160 --> 00:14:42,920
in this most northerly
164
00:14:42,960 --> 00:14:45,840
of all hummingbird habitats.
165
00:14:50,320 --> 00:14:52,440
Yet life here is built
166
00:14:52,480 --> 00:14:54,520
on superficial foundations.
167
00:14:56,360 --> 00:14:57,640
In some places,
168
00:14:57,680 --> 00:14:59,560
ice fields only retreated
169
00:14:59,600 --> 00:15:01,800
in the last 200 years.
170
00:15:03,400 --> 00:15:05,640
So, the soil is still shallow
171
00:15:05,680 --> 00:15:07,360
and nutrient-poor.
172
00:15:09,440 --> 00:15:12,240
But this Eden has an answer:
173
00:15:12,280 --> 00:15:15,400
it's intricate connections
between species...
174
00:15:19,840 --> 00:15:22,680
as revealed
under the magical display
175
00:15:22,720 --> 00:15:25,160
of the aurora borealis.
176
00:15:50,720 --> 00:15:53,960
Flying squirrels emerge
from their tree hollows
177
00:15:55,200 --> 00:15:57,200
in search of a mate.
178
00:15:58,360 --> 00:15:59,720
With spring in the air,
179
00:15:59,760 --> 00:16:02,360
this young male
sniffs the breeze.
180
00:16:03,680 --> 00:16:06,120
From a neighboring tree
181
00:16:06,160 --> 00:16:08,120
drifts the heady aroma
182
00:16:08,160 --> 00:16:10,720
of a receptive female.
183
00:16:18,760 --> 00:16:21,280
He eagerly sets off
to track her down.
184
00:16:30,920 --> 00:16:32,560
For a flying squirrel...
185
00:16:34,040 --> 00:16:36,440
gliding is the perfect way
186
00:16:36,480 --> 00:16:39,560
to get around
this 100-foot-high canopy.
187
00:16:46,200 --> 00:16:47,480
CHIRPING
188
00:16:52,120 --> 00:16:53,920
In a matter of seconds,
189
00:16:53,960 --> 00:16:56,400
the scent source
has been located.
190
00:16:57,360 --> 00:16:59,040
She's just come into season...
191
00:17:02,880 --> 00:17:05,200
but she's playing hard to get.
192
00:17:08,800 --> 00:17:11,320
He'll have to prove
he's a worthy partner.
193
00:17:18,040 --> 00:17:20,680
If he can't keep up,
he's not worth the effort.
194
00:17:49,320 --> 00:17:50,760
CHIRPING
195
00:17:51,880 --> 00:17:53,320
But just when it looks
196
00:17:53,360 --> 00:17:55,440
like a match made in heaven...
197
00:17:56,720 --> 00:17:59,440
she decides that
he's failed to make the grade.
198
00:18:09,680 --> 00:18:13,000
Yet the intoxicating scent
of female
199
00:18:13,040 --> 00:18:14,480
is still in the air.
200
00:18:17,880 --> 00:18:20,880
He must find this femme fatale.
201
00:18:23,560 --> 00:18:26,600
The lower he gets,
the more enticing it becomes.
202
00:18:33,360 --> 00:18:35,080
Desperately digging,
203
00:18:35,120 --> 00:18:37,160
this confused lothario
204
00:18:38,000 --> 00:18:40,680
thinks he's found
the mother of all mates.
205
00:18:43,040 --> 00:18:45,440
But his consolation prize is
206
00:18:45,480 --> 00:18:47,120
a white truffle.
207
00:18:49,600 --> 00:18:52,400
The furtive fungus emits an odor
208
00:18:52,440 --> 00:18:54,720
that mimics female pheromones.
209
00:19:04,640 --> 00:19:07,240
The truffle tricks him
into solving
210
00:19:07,280 --> 00:19:10,880
the biggest problem
for this mineral-starved forest.
211
00:19:16,240 --> 00:19:18,720
When a squirrel carries
a prize truffle
212
00:19:18,760 --> 00:19:20,080
to the treetops...
213
00:19:21,000 --> 00:19:22,200
its spores
214
00:19:22,920 --> 00:19:25,560
are dispersed far and wide.
215
00:19:29,760 --> 00:19:31,320
As they germinate,
216
00:19:31,360 --> 00:19:34,520
they help form
a vast underground web
217
00:19:34,560 --> 00:19:36,680
of fungal filaments...
218
00:19:39,160 --> 00:19:43,160
effectively extending
the range of tree roots...
219
00:19:46,040 --> 00:19:47,240
enabling them
220
00:19:47,280 --> 00:19:50,520
to extract enough nutrients
221
00:19:50,560 --> 00:19:54,560
to allow these great forests
222
00:19:54,600 --> 00:19:55,920
to flourish.
223
00:19:57,160 --> 00:20:00,280
BIRDS SINGING
224
00:20:02,280 --> 00:20:04,960
BIRD CAWING LOUDLY
225
00:20:09,720 --> 00:20:11,480
By early summer,
226
00:20:11,520 --> 00:20:13,920
long hours of daylight...
227
00:20:15,280 --> 00:20:17,880
promote a flush of growth...
228
00:20:20,600 --> 00:20:23,840
across the archipelago's
coastal meadows.
229
00:20:30,360 --> 00:20:32,840
But for grizzly bear families...
230
00:20:35,480 --> 00:20:38,440
high-calorie food is scarce...
231
00:20:42,120 --> 00:20:45,040
and aggressive males
must be avoided.
232
00:20:54,120 --> 00:20:57,000
So some head inland...
233
00:21:05,240 --> 00:21:07,280
to secluded rivers
234
00:21:07,320 --> 00:21:10,160
in the heart of the forest.
235
00:21:13,000 --> 00:21:15,920
This young mother
has just the one cub.
236
00:21:22,200 --> 00:21:25,440
His siblings may have been taken
by a male.
237
00:21:30,040 --> 00:21:33,040
But she has led him to a place
where he will be safe...
238
00:21:36,160 --> 00:21:40,320
and females gather
to feed in peace.
239
00:21:41,840 --> 00:21:47,560
SEABIRDS SQUAWKING
240
00:21:49,720 --> 00:21:51,360
Most are related,
241
00:21:51,400 --> 00:21:53,840
and all have young to feed.
242
00:22:02,640 --> 00:22:05,200
But for now, they must wait.
243
00:22:15,120 --> 00:22:16,560
Downstream...
244
00:22:17,480 --> 00:22:20,560
along Alaska's
7,000-mile seaboard...
245
00:22:27,320 --> 00:22:30,440
half a billion Pacific salmon.
246
00:22:36,400 --> 00:22:40,360
Among the largest concentrations
in the world.
247
00:22:49,440 --> 00:22:52,840
After four years
of fattening up at sea,
248
00:22:55,040 --> 00:22:58,800
some may swim
2,000 miles upstream...
249
00:23:10,000 --> 00:23:14,120
before spawning
in the very upriver pool
250
00:23:14,160 --> 00:23:15,920
in which they were born.
251
00:23:21,200 --> 00:23:24,560
A rich reward
for the eager bears.
252
00:23:35,600 --> 00:23:39,360
Unfortunately, for this
young mother and cub...
253
00:23:43,960 --> 00:23:46,720
all the prime fishing spots
are taken...
254
00:23:50,160 --> 00:23:53,000
by the older,
more experienced females.
255
00:24:03,120 --> 00:24:05,680
So she leads her cub upstream,
256
00:24:05,720 --> 00:24:07,960
away from the competition.
257
00:24:29,600 --> 00:24:30,920
But there's a reason
258
00:24:30,960 --> 00:24:33,160
they have this place
to themselves...
259
00:24:36,040 --> 00:24:37,280
Rapids.
260
00:24:37,320 --> 00:24:39,880
CUB HOWLS
261
00:24:45,800 --> 00:24:48,040
CUB HOWLS
262
00:24:58,520 --> 00:25:01,440
For the cub,
it's a brutal baptism.
263
00:25:01,480 --> 00:25:03,160
WHIMPERING
264
00:25:03,200 --> 00:25:07,240
GROWLING
265
00:25:09,760 --> 00:25:11,800
But the inexperienced mother
266
00:25:11,840 --> 00:25:13,720
coaxes him straight back in...
267
00:25:14,480 --> 00:25:16,480
MOTHER ROARS
268
00:25:23,400 --> 00:25:24,920
CUB HOWLS
269
00:25:48,640 --> 00:25:50,680
Her desperation to feed
270
00:25:50,720 --> 00:25:54,200
overrides her urge
to protect her cub.
271
00:26:00,320 --> 00:26:02,840
But fortune favors the brave!
272
00:26:23,720 --> 00:26:25,040
CUB GROWLS SOFTLY
273
00:26:37,200 --> 00:26:40,160
Finally, the ravenous cub
274
00:26:40,200 --> 00:26:43,160
gets a first taste of salmon.
275
00:26:50,480 --> 00:26:54,920
Over the next five months
that the salmon will run,
276
00:26:54,960 --> 00:26:59,200
grizzly bears will eat
up to 100 pounds a day.
277
00:27:01,440 --> 00:27:05,720
That's over 50,000 calories.
278
00:27:11,960 --> 00:27:14,640
And this cub will have
the rest of the summer
279
00:27:14,680 --> 00:27:17,240
to master the art of fishing.
280
00:27:23,040 --> 00:27:24,240
Got it!
281
00:27:37,600 --> 00:27:39,800
It's not just the bears
that benefit
282
00:27:39,840 --> 00:27:41,600
from this mass migration.
283
00:27:45,080 --> 00:27:48,800
To avoid a catch
from being stolen,
284
00:27:48,840 --> 00:27:51,560
the woods offer private dining.
285
00:27:56,720 --> 00:27:59,720
FLIES BUZZING
286
00:27:59,760 --> 00:28:02,760
With the fatty head
preferred to everything else...
287
00:28:05,320 --> 00:28:08,000
leftovers litter
the forest floor.
288
00:28:14,200 --> 00:28:15,920
From half a mile away...
289
00:28:18,120 --> 00:28:20,640
fishy fumes are picked up...
290
00:28:23,080 --> 00:28:25,200
by the sensitive antennae...
291
00:28:27,440 --> 00:28:29,160
of an inch-long
292
00:28:29,200 --> 00:28:31,480
indispensable insect...
293
00:28:34,400 --> 00:28:36,360
the burying beetle.
294
00:28:54,400 --> 00:28:56,960
This male has two things
in mind...
295
00:29:00,840 --> 00:29:02,280
fresh meat...
296
00:29:03,520 --> 00:29:05,080
and a mate.
297
00:29:07,720 --> 00:29:10,320
Battles establish
breeding rights.
298
00:29:13,480 --> 00:29:14,560
They're brief...
299
00:29:15,320 --> 00:29:16,440
but brutal.
300
00:29:21,760 --> 00:29:23,680
Then, living up to their name...
301
00:29:28,880 --> 00:29:33,080
the new couple proceeds
to dig the salmon a grave.
302
00:29:45,280 --> 00:29:47,960
In the safety
of their cozy crypt...
303
00:29:49,440 --> 00:29:53,200
the fresh corpse
provides a feast
304
00:29:53,240 --> 00:29:56,160
for a newly-hatched brood
305
00:29:56,200 --> 00:29:57,480
of larvae.
306
00:30:02,800 --> 00:30:05,520
And there will be plenty
of surplus fish
307
00:30:06,680 --> 00:30:09,120
to fertilize
the surrounding soil.
308
00:30:14,240 --> 00:30:17,200
In a soccer field-sized area,
309
00:30:17,240 --> 00:30:19,920
there can be as much
as three tons
310
00:30:19,960 --> 00:30:21,640
rotting underground.
311
00:30:28,080 --> 00:30:30,640
Known as 'fish trees',
312
00:30:30,680 --> 00:30:33,520
spruces grow three times faster
313
00:30:33,560 --> 00:30:35,080
along these rivers.
314
00:30:40,560 --> 00:30:44,840
It's possibly the largest
transfer of nutrients
315
00:30:44,880 --> 00:30:46,800
between water and land
316
00:30:46,840 --> 00:30:48,440
anywhere on Earth.
317
00:30:51,240 --> 00:30:53,400
Because of the salmon,
318
00:30:53,440 --> 00:30:56,200
the entire forest prospers.
319
00:31:02,800 --> 00:31:06,960
SQUAWKING
320
00:31:14,000 --> 00:31:15,560
It's autumn.
321
00:31:19,200 --> 00:31:23,040
The long days
and short months of summer
322
00:31:23,080 --> 00:31:25,560
brought with them great riches.
323
00:31:32,880 --> 00:31:35,880
But now, animals that can depart
324
00:31:35,920 --> 00:31:38,240
will soon be journeying south.
325
00:31:47,360 --> 00:31:48,600
MOOSE BELLOWS
326
00:31:48,640 --> 00:31:50,000
Yet for some,
327
00:31:50,040 --> 00:31:52,680
this is the time to secure
328
00:31:52,720 --> 00:31:54,080
your bloodline.
329
00:31:54,120 --> 00:31:59,760
MOOSE BELLOWING
330
00:31:59,800 --> 00:32:04,320
BELLOWING
331
00:32:05,280 --> 00:32:08,920
BELLOWING
332
00:32:11,040 --> 00:32:12,560
Crowned by antlers
333
00:32:12,600 --> 00:32:14,760
spanning six feet or more...
334
00:32:19,320 --> 00:32:22,000
and weighing around 40 pounds...
335
00:32:26,640 --> 00:32:29,680
a 1,500-pound moose
336
00:32:29,720 --> 00:32:32,840
proclaims dominion
over his realm.
337
00:32:32,880 --> 00:32:38,120
BELLOWING
338
00:32:43,560 --> 00:32:45,640
This antler-free female...
339
00:32:46,760 --> 00:32:49,240
and the five or so others
in his harem...
340
00:32:50,720 --> 00:32:52,840
will stick around as long
341
00:32:52,880 --> 00:32:55,160
as he's the best bull on offer.
342
00:32:59,880 --> 00:33:03,000
Younger males go head-to-head,
343
00:33:03,040 --> 00:33:05,520
honing their combat skills.
344
00:33:10,320 --> 00:33:13,680
Though without
the impressive headgear
345
00:33:13,720 --> 00:33:15,800
and imposing physique,
346
00:33:16,760 --> 00:33:20,800
they only have
a 10% chance of mating.
347
00:33:23,920 --> 00:33:27,560
But one male is willing
to try his luck.
348
00:33:35,360 --> 00:33:38,240
At five years old,
he's almost fully grown.
349
00:33:40,440 --> 00:33:42,080
But he'll never be
350
00:33:42,120 --> 00:33:44,200
a mighty moose.
351
00:33:58,680 --> 00:34:00,320
To win over a female...
352
00:34:01,680 --> 00:34:04,480
he needs a different game plan.
353
00:34:05,800 --> 00:34:07,840
From a discrete distance,
354
00:34:07,880 --> 00:34:10,320
he closely observes
what it takes
355
00:34:10,360 --> 00:34:12,680
to be main moose.
356
00:34:16,440 --> 00:34:20,000
The females are in season
for less than two days.
357
00:34:22,240 --> 00:34:25,920
But the dominant male has
a mood-enhancing move...
358
00:34:27,280 --> 00:34:29,800
that guarantees romance.
359
00:34:33,840 --> 00:34:36,360
He scrapes a shallow pit...
360
00:34:41,800 --> 00:34:43,640
and urinates into it.
361
00:34:52,080 --> 00:34:55,280
It contains potent pheromones
362
00:34:55,320 --> 00:34:58,240
that bring females into season.
363
00:35:02,440 --> 00:35:06,160
They find the aroma
so intoxicating,
364
00:35:06,200 --> 00:35:08,040
they can't resist a roll.
365
00:35:11,440 --> 00:35:13,800
Ah! So that's how it's done.
366
00:35:23,040 --> 00:35:27,400
GROANING
367
00:35:42,480 --> 00:35:45,360
Anointing himself
in the musky pee...
368
00:35:49,160 --> 00:35:52,640
this young pretender
seizes his chance.
369
00:36:12,880 --> 00:36:15,520
With the help
of the alpha's aroma...
370
00:36:16,840 --> 00:36:19,960
he gets the come-on
he's been dreaming of.
371
00:36:23,360 --> 00:36:25,560
Under the nose
of the moose monarch...
372
00:36:28,280 --> 00:36:31,640
she leads the cheeky youngster
off to mate...
373
00:36:35,040 --> 00:36:37,480
proving that the smartest moose
374
00:36:37,520 --> 00:36:41,160
isn't always the one
with the biggest antlers.
375
00:36:46,120 --> 00:36:48,080
BIRD SQUAWKING
376
00:37:03,960 --> 00:37:06,720
As autumn gives way to winter...
377
00:37:09,120 --> 00:37:10,840
temperatures plummet
378
00:37:10,880 --> 00:37:13,320
to minus 4 degrees Fahrenheit.
379
00:37:18,320 --> 00:37:21,160
While most rivers
are now locked in ice...
380
00:37:21,200 --> 00:37:25,240
WIND HOWLING
381
00:37:30,040 --> 00:37:33,000
...the Chilkat continues to flow
382
00:37:33,040 --> 00:37:34,840
throughout November.
383
00:37:36,760 --> 00:37:38,960
BIRDS SQUAWKING
384
00:37:39,000 --> 00:37:42,080
Heated to 45 degrees
385
00:37:42,120 --> 00:37:44,240
by thermal springs...
386
00:37:46,760 --> 00:37:50,520
it supports one of Alaska's
last salmon runs...
387
00:37:55,040 --> 00:37:59,600
offering one final
feeding bonanza...
388
00:38:07,240 --> 00:38:09,840
for America's national bird...
389
00:38:15,040 --> 00:38:17,120
the bald eagle.
390
00:38:19,920 --> 00:38:22,640
Over 4,000 stop off here
391
00:38:22,680 --> 00:38:25,320
in the largest gathering
on Earth...
392
00:38:29,920 --> 00:38:31,920
to fuel up on salmon
393
00:38:31,960 --> 00:38:34,360
ahead of their migration south.
394
00:38:47,360 --> 00:38:49,240
For a young eagle,
395
00:38:49,280 --> 00:38:52,160
this is the first true test
of survival.
396
00:38:53,560 --> 00:38:56,680
SQUAWKING
397
00:38:56,720 --> 00:38:59,120
Every catch
is ferociously contested
398
00:38:59,160 --> 00:39:01,320
by adults much bigger than him.
399
00:39:01,360 --> 00:39:06,000
SQUAWKING
400
00:39:08,080 --> 00:39:10,760
But to make the journey ahead,
401
00:39:10,800 --> 00:39:12,880
he needs to bulk up.
402
00:39:22,160 --> 00:39:24,280
To avoid serious injury,
403
00:39:24,320 --> 00:39:26,480
disputes are settled
404
00:39:26,520 --> 00:39:28,280
by locking needle-sharp
405
00:39:28,320 --> 00:39:30,400
two-inch-long talons.
406
00:39:31,440 --> 00:39:36,200
SQUAWKING
407
00:39:39,600 --> 00:39:42,520
He moves in
on the unguarded carcass...
408
00:39:56,680 --> 00:39:58,800
only for it to be snatched away.
409
00:40:21,120 --> 00:40:23,960
At dusk, eagles retreat
410
00:40:24,000 --> 00:40:26,480
to the safety of the treetops.
411
00:40:39,680 --> 00:40:43,520
They may have one of the most
acute daytime eyesights
412
00:40:43,560 --> 00:40:44,880
in the animal kingdom...
413
00:40:48,240 --> 00:40:51,640
but in the dark,
they're virtually blind.
414
00:40:55,040 --> 00:40:58,240
On the ground,
they could easily be ambushed
415
00:40:58,280 --> 00:41:00,600
by nocturnal predators,
416
00:41:00,640 --> 00:41:02,160
like a coyote.
417
00:41:03,920 --> 00:41:06,440
But night may also offer
418
00:41:06,480 --> 00:41:08,800
an opportunity to feed.
419
00:41:18,000 --> 00:41:20,000
Under the safety of darkness,
420
00:41:20,040 --> 00:41:22,920
a mother grizzly
leads her two cubs
421
00:41:22,960 --> 00:41:24,240
to the river's edge.
422
00:41:28,360 --> 00:41:32,120
Brown bears have a membrane
in the back of their eyes
423
00:41:32,160 --> 00:41:35,000
that reflects light
within the lens...
424
00:41:36,320 --> 00:41:38,920
giving them
excellent night vision.
425
00:41:40,040 --> 00:41:42,520
BOTH ROARING
426
00:41:42,560 --> 00:41:44,440
While the cubs
amuse themselves...
427
00:41:44,480 --> 00:41:46,040
ROARING
428
00:41:46,680 --> 00:41:50,000
...mum gets on with
the serious business of fishing.
429
00:41:53,200 --> 00:41:54,960
GROWLING
430
00:42:08,120 --> 00:42:10,280
GROWLING
431
00:42:17,960 --> 00:42:19,200
BEAR GROWLS
432
00:42:26,320 --> 00:42:27,680
With the coast clear...
433
00:42:28,760 --> 00:42:30,720
the daring youngster
434
00:42:30,760 --> 00:42:32,760
makes his move...
435
00:42:41,720 --> 00:42:43,960
profiting on the leftovers.
436
00:42:50,520 --> 00:42:54,120
While almost three quarters
of fledglings die
437
00:42:54,160 --> 00:42:56,120
in their first year...
438
00:42:56,840 --> 00:43:02,040
SCREECHING
439
00:43:04,760 --> 00:43:07,920
...this wily eagle
has found a way
440
00:43:07,960 --> 00:43:10,240
to gain the strength he needs
441
00:43:10,280 --> 00:43:12,960
to escape the Alaskan winter.
442
00:43:28,640 --> 00:43:31,440
These late salmon runs are vital
443
00:43:31,480 --> 00:43:33,000
to grizzly bears
444
00:43:33,040 --> 00:43:35,480
right across Northern America.
445
00:43:41,120 --> 00:43:44,720
As temperatures drop to
minus 20 degrees Fahrenheit...
446
00:43:46,560 --> 00:43:49,120
icicles adorn their fur.
447
00:43:53,920 --> 00:43:56,800
So they are known here
by the First Nations
448
00:43:56,840 --> 00:43:58,520
as 'Ice Bears.'
449
00:44:17,920 --> 00:44:21,400
Every salmon increases
the chance of surviving
450
00:44:21,440 --> 00:44:23,480
the long winter hibernation.
451
00:44:27,920 --> 00:44:29,920
But across Southeast Alaska,
452
00:44:29,960 --> 00:44:32,000
the predictability
of the salmon run
453
00:44:32,040 --> 00:44:34,080
has been thrown into doubt.
454
00:44:36,800 --> 00:44:38,440
The damming of rivers,
455
00:44:38,480 --> 00:44:40,440
logging, pollution,
456
00:44:40,480 --> 00:44:42,040
and climate change...
457
00:44:42,960 --> 00:44:46,320
could mean this entire habitat
458
00:44:46,360 --> 00:44:47,800
is at risk.
459
00:44:53,480 --> 00:44:55,880
On this fragile planet,
460
00:44:55,920 --> 00:44:59,960
home to nearly
eight billion people,
461
00:45:00,000 --> 00:45:02,720
the threat
to remaining wilderness
462
00:45:02,760 --> 00:45:04,800
grows ever greater.
463
00:45:08,280 --> 00:45:12,240
But if we take steps
to keep our world safe...
464
00:45:14,600 --> 00:45:17,160
enriched by natural wonders...
465
00:45:22,920 --> 00:45:25,880
its exquisite symmetry...
466
00:45:27,600 --> 00:45:29,760
kept in balance
467
00:45:29,800 --> 00:45:32,240
by intricate relationships...
468
00:45:36,920 --> 00:45:39,720
these last frontiers
469
00:45:39,760 --> 00:45:42,800
BELLOWING
470
00:45:43,920 --> 00:45:45,480
...will remain...
471
00:45:46,080 --> 00:45:48,760
SCREECHING
472
00:45:50,280 --> 00:45:52,920
...forever Eden.
473
00:46:18,840 --> 00:46:20,040
The Eden team
474
00:46:20,080 --> 00:46:21,760
spent a year braving
475
00:46:21,800 --> 00:46:23,440
the freezing conditions
476
00:46:23,480 --> 00:46:25,080
of Southeast Alaska...
477
00:46:26,560 --> 00:46:30,840
in one of the most remote
and pristine wildernesses
478
00:46:30,880 --> 00:46:32,760
left in North America.
479
00:46:35,800 --> 00:46:38,440
With new technologies,
480
00:46:38,480 --> 00:46:40,920
they were able to reveal
the hidden lives
481
00:46:40,960 --> 00:46:42,920
of its exceptional wildlife.
482
00:46:45,160 --> 00:46:46,520
From the miniscule...
483
00:46:48,320 --> 00:46:50,880
to its mighty megafauna.
484
00:46:52,600 --> 00:46:54,400
But the team's biggest challenge
485
00:46:54,440 --> 00:46:58,240
was to capture the intimate
story of bear families
486
00:46:59,240 --> 00:47:02,320
on their quest to find food
487
00:47:02,360 --> 00:47:04,840
along Alaska's coastline.
488
00:47:09,920 --> 00:47:11,000
In spring,
489
00:47:11,040 --> 00:47:13,960
camera operator Luke Barnett
490
00:47:14,000 --> 00:47:17,000
set sail for Admiralty Island
491
00:47:17,040 --> 00:47:19,480
in the Alexander Archipelago...
492
00:47:24,720 --> 00:47:27,720
accompanied by bear expert
493
00:47:27,760 --> 00:47:29,640
Bjorn Dihle...
494
00:47:31,200 --> 00:47:34,120
and their timing is impeccable.
495
00:47:35,000 --> 00:47:36,920
Just arrived
at our filming location,
496
00:47:36,960 --> 00:47:39,080
and there's a mother
with two cubs on the beach.
497
00:47:39,120 --> 00:47:42,120
Bjorn recognizes her,
says she's 26 years old.
498
00:47:42,160 --> 00:47:44,240
It's so amazing
to see them day one.
499
00:47:45,200 --> 00:47:47,360
In this remote wilderness,
500
00:47:47,400 --> 00:47:51,000
the crew will have to be
entirely self-sufficient.
501
00:47:54,480 --> 00:47:56,600
Setting up camp in bear country,
502
00:47:56,640 --> 00:47:58,160
rule number one
503
00:47:58,200 --> 00:48:01,600
is to cache any food
high up in a tree
504
00:48:01,640 --> 00:48:04,480
away from sensitive noses
505
00:48:04,520 --> 00:48:06,880
and erect an electric fence
506
00:48:06,920 --> 00:48:09,720
to deter any surprise visitors.
507
00:48:10,400 --> 00:48:13,200
So right now it's on
and it emits, uh...
508
00:48:14,200 --> 00:48:16,960
a small jolt every second.
509
00:48:17,000 --> 00:48:19,000
It's really not that bad.
510
00:48:19,040 --> 00:48:22,560
Um, that was more me just being
a wimp than anything else.
511
00:48:22,600 --> 00:48:26,200
But it scares the heck
out of bears.
512
00:48:28,000 --> 00:48:30,640
The team heads
for the coastal meadows,
513
00:48:30,680 --> 00:48:32,440
where mothers with cubs
514
00:48:32,480 --> 00:48:34,600
gather to feed each spring.
515
00:48:35,440 --> 00:48:37,400
BJORN:
Coming around the corner.
516
00:48:37,440 --> 00:48:39,440
Bjorn's normally
the strong, silent type
517
00:48:39,480 --> 00:48:40,800
and he's talking a
lot on this trip,
518
00:48:40,840 --> 00:48:42,640
and that's just so...
519
00:48:42,680 --> 00:48:43,960
we don't surprise any bears
who think
520
00:48:44,000 --> 00:48:45,120
another bear's come around
521
00:48:45,160 --> 00:48:46,400
the corner and they charge us.
522
00:48:46,960 --> 00:48:48,560
It quickly becomes clear
523
00:48:48,600 --> 00:48:50,960
that this is far
from a peaceful scene.
524
00:48:52,320 --> 00:48:54,200
One thing I have noticed
about the bears
525
00:48:54,240 --> 00:48:55,720
is they spend
a lot of their time
526
00:48:55,760 --> 00:48:57,320
looking quite anxious
527
00:48:57,360 --> 00:48:59,800
and they're always looking about
for other bears,
528
00:48:59,840 --> 00:49:02,360
especially the females, and
the males are always looking to
529
00:49:02,400 --> 00:49:04,480
antagonize other males.
530
00:49:04,520 --> 00:49:06,880
Newly emerged from hibernation,
531
00:49:06,920 --> 00:49:09,680
the 700-pound male grizzlies
532
00:49:09,720 --> 00:49:12,320
are ravenous, eager to mate...
533
00:49:12,360 --> 00:49:13,320
ROARS
534
00:49:13,840 --> 00:49:15,480
...and highly territorial.
535
00:49:16,120 --> 00:49:17,920
It's incredibly daunting.
536
00:49:17,960 --> 00:49:20,200
Having filmed predators
all around the world,
537
00:49:20,240 --> 00:49:22,480
I've only ever approached them
in a vehicle before,
538
00:49:22,520 --> 00:49:24,240
so you've got that armor
around you,
539
00:49:24,280 --> 00:49:26,600
this is the biggest
land predator here.
540
00:49:27,480 --> 00:49:30,320
And it can move at speeds
of up to 35 miles an hour,
541
00:49:30,360 --> 00:49:33,480
and the only thing I have
to stop them, essentially,
542
00:49:33,520 --> 00:49:35,400
is some kind of bear spray,
543
00:49:35,440 --> 00:49:37,720
and quite scary at times.
544
00:49:37,760 --> 00:49:39,320
Respecting bears
545
00:49:39,360 --> 00:49:41,400
and learning to read
their behavior
546
00:49:41,440 --> 00:49:43,600
can avoid conflict.
547
00:49:43,640 --> 00:49:46,120
Now we got a big male bear
548
00:49:46,160 --> 00:49:49,120
about 30 meters away from us
that's been looking at
549
00:49:49,840 --> 00:49:52,200
anything that moves
as a potential competitor
550
00:49:52,240 --> 00:49:53,680
or a potential mate.
551
00:49:54,600 --> 00:49:57,200
Bjorn tells Luke
to face the bear,
552
00:49:57,240 --> 00:49:58,800
stand his ground.
553
00:50:02,000 --> 00:50:04,040
And talks to it calmly.
554
00:50:04,080 --> 00:50:07,200
BJORN:
You're okay, you're okay.
555
00:50:07,240 --> 00:50:09,720
Um... if he keeps us here,
we're gonna have some issues.
556
00:50:19,640 --> 00:50:21,560
After a tense standoff...
557
00:50:22,600 --> 00:50:25,480
the male grizzly
finally moves away.
558
00:50:26,440 --> 00:50:28,600
RELIEVED SIGH
559
00:50:28,640 --> 00:50:30,640
Over the next few weeks,
560
00:50:30,680 --> 00:50:32,840
the team's perseverance
is rewarded
561
00:50:32,880 --> 00:50:34,920
with intimate encounters
562
00:50:34,960 --> 00:50:37,280
from a young mother with cubs.
563
00:50:39,400 --> 00:50:41,320
So, these bears
are getting pretty close now,
564
00:50:41,360 --> 00:50:43,680
which is a great sign
for the filming,
565
00:50:43,720 --> 00:50:46,200
but the mother's probably due
to come into season
566
00:50:46,240 --> 00:50:49,720
any moment now
and that'll bring the males in,
567
00:50:49,760 --> 00:50:51,200
so everything could change
and those cubs
568
00:50:51,240 --> 00:50:53,600
could be in
for a little bit of a shock.
569
00:50:55,240 --> 00:50:57,560
It doesn't take long
for Luke's concerns
570
00:50:57,600 --> 00:50:59,160
to become a reality.
571
00:51:01,400 --> 00:51:06,000
A huge and scarred male grizzly
approaches.
572
00:51:07,160 --> 00:51:09,640
This big bear has got
a big cut on its head,
573
00:51:09,680 --> 00:51:12,400
it's been fighting,
potentially a very angry bear.
574
00:51:14,280 --> 00:51:16,400
Everything's fine when I look
through the viewfinder,
575
00:51:16,440 --> 00:51:18,960
so I'll just carry on doing that
for a little bit.
576
00:51:23,640 --> 00:51:27,080
While still on
the lookout for amorous males,
577
00:51:27,120 --> 00:51:29,560
mum takes the cubs to the beach
578
00:51:29,600 --> 00:51:31,400
for a day of clamming.
579
00:51:32,800 --> 00:51:35,280
That was pretty intense,
when mother and cubs came down,
580
00:51:35,320 --> 00:51:36,840
and they were so close,
581
00:51:36,880 --> 00:51:38,600
and they started huffing
a little bit.
582
00:51:38,640 --> 00:51:40,800
I can't tell how far away she is
from the viewfinder,
583
00:51:40,840 --> 00:51:43,280
but I knew when I took
the lens as wide as it would go
584
00:51:43,320 --> 00:51:45,240
and there was still
a very big bear in frame
585
00:51:45,280 --> 00:51:46,360
that she was pretty close.
586
00:51:48,400 --> 00:51:50,200
While
a protective mother with cubs
587
00:51:50,240 --> 00:51:51,760
can pose a threat,
588
00:51:51,800 --> 00:51:53,600
as time passes,
589
00:51:53,640 --> 00:51:55,840
the team gain her trust.
590
00:51:57,640 --> 00:51:59,920
We've been watching this
female for the last eight days
591
00:51:59,960 --> 00:52:01,920
and I've known her for 12 years,
592
00:52:01,960 --> 00:52:03,840
and we don't approach her,
593
00:52:03,880 --> 00:52:05,960
we let her kind of do
what she wants to do.
594
00:52:06,960 --> 00:52:08,920
But it may take Luke
a little longer
595
00:52:08,960 --> 00:52:11,240
to be completely at ease.
596
00:52:12,960 --> 00:52:14,720
LUKE:
We had to hold our position,
597
00:52:14,760 --> 00:52:16,640
but it was a little bit
nerve-racking.
598
00:52:16,680 --> 00:52:18,320
It was great
to have Bjorn with me
599
00:52:18,360 --> 00:52:19,760
because he was talking
to the bears,
600
00:52:19,800 --> 00:52:21,360
just telling them
what we were doing,
601
00:52:21,400 --> 00:52:22,960
and half the time
I thought he was talking to me,
602
00:52:23,000 --> 00:52:25,720
to calm down,
but he was talking to the bears.
603
00:52:25,760 --> 00:52:28,400
Then they chilled out completely
604
00:52:28,440 --> 00:52:31,320
and got the mother digging out
a clam in full frame,
605
00:52:31,360 --> 00:52:33,400
and the cubs have learned
that behavior as well,
606
00:52:33,440 --> 00:52:35,000
so that was amazing to see.
607
00:52:35,040 --> 00:52:36,280
That intimate moment,
608
00:52:36,320 --> 00:52:37,680
that's gonna stick with me.
609
00:52:40,480 --> 00:52:42,960
The grizzly bear's
fearsome reputation
610
00:52:43,000 --> 00:52:46,160
has contributed
to their persecution.
611
00:52:46,200 --> 00:52:47,760
BJORN:
In Southeast Alaska,
612
00:52:47,800 --> 00:52:49,000
about 2,000 brown bears
613
00:52:49,040 --> 00:52:50,280
get shot by sports hunters
614
00:52:50,320 --> 00:52:51,400
every year.
615
00:52:51,440 --> 00:52:52,560
And it's like
616
00:52:52,600 --> 00:52:53,800
less than one person will die
617
00:52:53,840 --> 00:52:55,240
from a brown bear every year.
618
00:52:57,880 --> 00:53:00,360
While Luke maintains
a healthy respect
619
00:53:00,400 --> 00:53:02,680
for these formidable predators,
620
00:53:02,720 --> 00:53:05,960
he has also experienced
a gentler side.
621
00:53:10,760 --> 00:53:13,640
This place is pretty special,
it's a sanctuary for the bears.
622
00:53:13,680 --> 00:53:15,520
And it's really lovely
to be able to come somewhere
623
00:53:15,560 --> 00:53:16,920
where they're not hunted
624
00:53:16,960 --> 00:53:18,560
and they just go about
their lives,
625
00:53:18,600 --> 00:53:20,120
and we get to see them do that.
626
00:53:22,680 --> 00:53:24,280
As long as Admiralty Island
627
00:53:24,320 --> 00:53:25,800
remains protected
628
00:53:26,720 --> 00:53:29,600
and the wilderness
of the Alexander Archipelago
629
00:53:29,640 --> 00:53:31,000
can be preserved...
630
00:53:32,640 --> 00:53:34,480
this will remain
631
00:53:34,520 --> 00:53:37,880
the greatest stronghold
for brown bears
632
00:53:37,920 --> 00:53:39,400
on Earth.
43696