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Hi, I'm Andrew Graham-Dixon
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and I'm an art historian.
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These ancient roads
are slightly bumpy.
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And I'm Giorgio Locatelli
and I'm a cook.
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We've been all over Italy,
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revealing her gastronomic and
artistic treasures,
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but now we've come to the beating
heart of the country, Rome.
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It's a 2,000 year old metropolis
where past and present collide.
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It's as unique for an art lover...
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In the same moment he's also Christ
on the cross.
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..as it is for a food lover.
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Today I'm going to cook you a dish
that is really steep in history.
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We will test traditional recipes
beloved by the Romans.
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I'm not leaving this here.
He's not going to let me have any.
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And we'll plunge our forks into the
cultures that have shaped the city.
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The Trevi Fountain, famous as
Italian ice cream.
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We'll explore Rome's greatest
works of art and architecture.
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Uno. Due. Tre.
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Full of light... Incredible.
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..but also, sometimes, darkness.
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It's the voice of conscience.
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I think it's a truthful voice.
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I cannot imagine anything to do in
life better than this.
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And with you in the back, as well.
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It's always been my belief that to
understand Rome,
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you must first
understand the Roman people.
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They've always been the driving
force behind the city.
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From ancient times, the Romans have
acclaimed each new Emperor...
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..roared their approval or
disapproval of each new Pope
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and they show no sign
of stopping that.
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They're always larger than life,
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divided, opinionated,
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passionate, unpredictable.
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Rome might be Italy's centre of
government...
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..but no-one could be harder to
govern than the Romans.
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Our journey begins in the historic
centre of Rome,
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the politically charged
Capitoline Hill.
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The smallest and most important of
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the seven hills of ancient Rome,
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it was originally the site of one of
the city's most sacred temples
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and later became the seat
of the Senate.
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Look at this. Amazing.
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Excuse me.
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Caput Mundi. Here we are.
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But it's empty. We have
the whole square to ourselves.
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That is unbelievable.
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That's like having an opera
performance just for you.
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But it is like a piece of theatre.
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Yeah. This is THE place.
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Yeah, yeah, you're right.
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So many things happened here.
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Friends, Romans, lend me your ears.
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After the death of Caesar,
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Petrarch, he comes here to receive
his laurel crown
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and then Napoleon declares his
short-lived rule over Italy.
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Not very important.
Don't talk about him.
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But still, they always come here.
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This is the place.
Even in the Second World War,
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General Clark really
didn't feel like
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he'd achieved anything until he
arrived here.
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Well, we talk about, often,
Michelangelo the sculptor...
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00:04:03,000 --> 00:04:06,480
Yeah. ..Michelangelo the painter,
who created the Sistine Chapel...
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00:04:06,480 --> 00:04:09,960
Yeah. ..but sometimes we forget,
this is Michelangelo the architect,
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and he creates this beautiful
star pavement,
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almost like this is the sun.
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And at the centre of it all,
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this great statue of
Marcus Aurelius,
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one of the most famous statues
in the world.
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This statue's stood here, really,
for 2,000 years.
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The very first equestrian statue.
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And in Roman times this signified
the status of the ruler,
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that the Emperor,
he is astride the horse,
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just as he is, metaphorically,
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he's in charge of his people.
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There he is, the great
philosopher emperor,
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founder of modern mindfulness,
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author of works on happiness.
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Extraordinary man.
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The only reason it survived
was that Pope Paul III,
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for whom Michelangelo redesigned
this square during the Renaissance,
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he actually believed that to be a
representation of the very first
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Christian emperor, Constantine.
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I see. And that's why he
allowed it to remain,
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because all the Roman pagan
monuments...
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All melted. If they were made
of bronze, they go.
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So this thing only survives
because of a mistake.
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Fantastic. Thank God for that.
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One of the most famous statues
in the world. It's beautiful.
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Look at the horse.
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There's two Romes, always.
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There's the Rome of the
great and the powerful,
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and there's the Rome of the people,
the Rome of the mob.
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And this place is where
the two meet each other.
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Andrew, come, I want to ask
you something.
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You know what that mean?
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Senatus Populusque Romanus.
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It's a central idea of Ancient Rome.
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Those who rule, only rule with the
collaboration of the people.
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With the collaboration...
of the people...
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of Rome. That means a representation
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of the mob, as we call it.
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The modern world is built on
this value, on this idea,
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that the people are part of
the government.
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00:06:01,200 --> 00:06:05,000
And, you know, this is so
everywhere in Rome.
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Look, the aqueduct, water,
everybody, SPQR.
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It really is everywhere. That's it.
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It's pretty unique to see the power
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of the people declared in every
corner of their own city.
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Thanks to that,
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the Roman always maintain a strong
sense of ownership over Rome,
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throughout the Republic
and Imperial eras.
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But the Empire ended in 476 AD.
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Over the following centuries it was
replaced by rulers
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more interested in
exerting power over the people.
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Fantastico.
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By the eighth century Rome was the
capital of the Papal States,
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ruled by cardinals and popes.
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These ambitious men of God
loved nothing more
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than to proclaim their own vast
power with grandiose monuments.
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But even they knew that they also
had to please the people.
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For me, the best,
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most extravagant example of this
Papal showmanship in all of Rome...
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..is the Trevi Fountain.
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00:07:33,680 --> 00:07:38,000
Commissioned by Pope Clement XII,
in the 18th century.
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As famous as Italian ice cream, it
looks like it's made of ice cream.
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The Trevi Fountain.
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It's so beautiful.
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In the Roman times
it's bread and circuses.
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In the Papal times it's fountains.
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That's how you really
impress your people.
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This is the culmination of a kind of
centuries-long fountain competition.
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Every Pope wants to put
a great fountain.
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It gets bigger and bigger
and bigger and bigger
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00:08:03,760 --> 00:08:07,120
and then, finally,
this fountain goes up.
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00:08:07,120 --> 00:08:09,400
And everybody just goes,
"You know what..."
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00:08:09,400 --> 00:08:12,040
"Maybe we should stop it."
"Maybe we should stop now."
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It's the entire side of a palace.
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In the middle,
the God of the seas, Neptune.
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On the left, you've got Abundance.
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She's emphasising that, "Oh,
it's not just Papal extravagance.
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"Without this water..."
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Nothing grow. Nothing grows.
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And that's continued in this
lovely detail of the plants...
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Yes. ..that's sort of growing up
around the fountain.
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Love that one, look,
growing on the rocks.
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Looks like a lettuce or something.
Yeah.
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I think my favourite detail are
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these horses because they've got
fish's tails,
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horse's bodies, and they've
also got wings.
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Wings. Everything is there.
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And it's all invented
in one go here.
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That is so brilliant.
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Even as it started to go up,
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people knew this was
something pretty special,
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and that's why the inscriptions
are so confusing
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because everyone wanted
to have their name on it.
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So it was commissioned by
Pope Clement XII,
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but in 1735, before the fountain
is finished, he knows he's dying,
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so he quickly makes sure that his
name was inscribed.
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Then, below, in the gold,
we see Benedict XIV...
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..in his...
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Well, basically, in his time,
it was actually finished
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and declared open.
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And then if you look below,
another Pope, Clement XIII,
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I think he did some additions
to the aqueduct work
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or something. And he said, "No,
I want my name on it, too."
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Yeah, it's not three coins
in the fountain,
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it's three Popes in a fountain.
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But in the end, the Italian who
really put his name on it,
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although he didn't put
his name on it...
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Federico Fellini. Yes.
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Marcello, where are you?
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My goodness.
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00:10:09,080 --> 00:10:10,520
Fellini, more than anyone else,
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with the scene in La Dolce Vita
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where Anita Ekberg
wades into the fountain,
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and her friend, Marcello,
Marcello Mastroianni.
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They made the fountain, that was
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already the fountain
of the people of Rome,
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became the fountain of
the people of the world.
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Of the world, that's right.
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Absolutely.
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00:10:34,120 --> 00:10:36,640
Oscar winner Federico Fellini was
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one of the most famous
Italian film directors.
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Although from Rimini,
Fellini found his real home in Rome.
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He responded above all
to the people of the city.
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Their passion, their love
of spectacle
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and he put them at the heart
of much of his work.
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In his 1960s masterpiece
La Dolce Vita,
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a satire on Roman high society,
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00:11:01,800 --> 00:11:05,920
he transformed the city's classical
sites into vibrant film sets.
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00:11:07,960 --> 00:11:10,600
Hollywood and its starlets
flooded in,
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00:11:10,600 --> 00:11:13,440
making Rome the centre of
the world once again.
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00:11:16,360 --> 00:11:20,560
In the '50s here you had...
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00:11:20,560 --> 00:11:24,800
..Gary Cooper, everybody, and there
would be people there just watching.
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00:11:24,800 --> 00:11:26,960
Just standing there on the street
just watching.
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00:11:26,960 --> 00:11:29,280
Look and see what's happening,
who's having a coffee,
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00:11:29,280 --> 00:11:31,160
who's drinking something.
199
00:11:31,160 --> 00:11:33,320
And Fellini was right
at the base of this.
200
00:11:33,320 --> 00:11:38,240
He was kind of the spark and just
illuminated the whole thing.
201
00:11:43,560 --> 00:11:45,680
Although Fellini could have worked
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00:11:45,680 --> 00:11:48,200
with any of the big star
of the time,
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00:11:48,200 --> 00:11:50,600
he never turned his back
on the Romans.
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00:11:51,640 --> 00:11:56,000
And in any ordinary man and woman on
the street he may find the potential
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00:11:56,000 --> 00:12:00,600
extra to give him the raw quality he
was always looking for in his film.
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00:12:04,000 --> 00:12:07,360
Buongiorno, Silvano. Buongiorno.
Buongiorno.
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00:12:07,360 --> 00:12:10,920
Silvano Spoletini was 21 years old
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00:12:10,920 --> 00:12:14,400
and working as
an encyclopaedia binder
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00:12:14,400 --> 00:12:18,640
when Fellini picked him
to be an extra in his film Roma.
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00:12:18,640 --> 00:12:22,920
From that moment he went on
to have a 60-year career,
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00:12:22,920 --> 00:12:27,360
working on films such as
Ocean's 12 and Gangs of New York.
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00:12:29,600 --> 00:12:33,640
They called him The Lighthouse
because he was the leading light
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00:12:33,640 --> 00:12:35,560
and everybody follow him.
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00:13:21,360 --> 00:13:25,400
The capacity of the Roman to,
kind of, reinvent themselves
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00:13:25,400 --> 00:13:27,120
or to push little bit.
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00:13:27,120 --> 00:13:29,880
What are you doing this morning?
I haven't got no job.
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00:13:29,880 --> 00:13:33,440
I'm walking down Piazza del Popolo.
Maybe Fellini's going to pick me up.
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00:13:33,440 --> 00:13:36,520
Maybe he's going to put me in a
film. There's always a chance.
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00:13:36,520 --> 00:13:38,680
I like that about the Romans, no?
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00:13:38,680 --> 00:13:41,880
I think it's...
That's why it's eternal, the city,
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00:13:41,880 --> 00:13:44,480
because of the people.
We say that so many times
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It's now time to cook Andrew
a classic Roman dish.
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00:13:58,440 --> 00:14:01,920
Despite the opulent culinary
tradition of the rich,
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00:14:01,920 --> 00:14:05,400
the food that survive
is the cuisine of the people.
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00:14:05,400 --> 00:14:06,680
Buongiorno.
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00:14:06,680 --> 00:14:10,160
Simple dishes that have
stood the test of time
227
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and everything that I need
can be found
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00:14:12,800 --> 00:14:15,440
in one of the city's hidden gems.
229
00:14:15,440 --> 00:14:19,120
Situated on Monteverde hill
in south-west Rome,
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00:14:19,120 --> 00:14:24,160
San Giovanni di Dio is one of
Rome's most vibrant markets.
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00:14:24,160 --> 00:14:26,640
I love this great amount
of greenery.
232
00:14:26,640 --> 00:14:28,840
Greenery everywhere.
You see how much?
233
00:14:28,840 --> 00:14:30,680
It's like... This is bietina.
234
00:14:30,680 --> 00:14:33,160
It's like all this different
type of spinach.
235
00:14:33,160 --> 00:14:35,360
Very much at the base
of what they cook.
236
00:14:35,360 --> 00:14:38,440
I mean, you don't see anything
that is not seasonal here, do you?
237
00:14:38,440 --> 00:14:40,920
No. It's all grown
around the corner.
238
00:14:40,920 --> 00:14:43,680
That doesn't say,
flown in from Israel.
239
00:14:43,680 --> 00:14:46,960
That's, like, driven in by Enzo
this morning.
240
00:14:50,200 --> 00:14:51,480
Andrew.
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00:14:53,320 --> 00:14:55,840
That's what we want to buy.
Oh, the Romanesco!
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00:14:55,840 --> 00:14:57,520
Buongiorno.
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00:14:57,520 --> 00:14:59,680
Due Romanesco.
244
00:14:59,680 --> 00:15:02,160
One of the main ingredients
of my dish
245
00:15:02,160 --> 00:15:04,600
are these beautiful
Romanesco broccoli.
246
00:15:04,600 --> 00:15:06,080
Perfecto.
247
00:15:08,200 --> 00:15:09,600
Due carota.
248
00:15:10,640 --> 00:15:12,600
Quattordici quarantacinque.
249
00:15:12,600 --> 00:15:14,200
Grazie.
250
00:15:14,200 --> 00:15:18,200
Next, it's time to buy
the main ingredient.
251
00:15:18,200 --> 00:15:21,240
So, what are we going to buy?
We're going to buy a razza.
252
00:15:21,240 --> 00:15:23,440
It's called arzilla in Rome
253
00:15:23,440 --> 00:15:25,400
and it's called skate in England.
254
00:15:25,400 --> 00:15:27,880
All the fish have so many
different names.
255
00:15:27,880 --> 00:15:29,520
In all, it has about, like,
256
00:15:29,520 --> 00:15:31,400
12 different names in Italy.
257
00:15:31,400 --> 00:15:36,280
Right, right.
HE SPEAKS ITALIAN
258
00:15:36,280 --> 00:15:38,400
So, you better get your skates on.
259
00:15:38,400 --> 00:15:41,960
THEY SPEAK ITALIAN
260
00:15:48,120 --> 00:15:50,280
He already
knows what I'm going to cook.
261
00:15:50,280 --> 00:15:51,720
Which is..?
262
00:15:51,720 --> 00:15:55,680
Pasta broccoli con arzilla.
263
00:16:02,280 --> 00:16:05,160
THEY SPEAK ITALIAN
264
00:16:05,160 --> 00:16:07,320
62 years he's been in the market.
265
00:16:10,640 --> 00:16:12,920
Tu sempre questa..? Cento questa.
266
00:16:12,920 --> 00:16:15,680
It's 100 years that they've had this
stall on this market.
267
00:16:15,680 --> 00:16:16,920
Wow.
268
00:16:22,280 --> 00:16:23,720
He says, "Do you want some parsley?"
269
00:16:23,720 --> 00:16:25,200
because when they serve the fish,
270
00:16:25,200 --> 00:16:27,200
they give you present, a little bit
of parsley.
271
00:16:27,200 --> 00:16:28,880
What do you want more than that?
272
00:16:28,880 --> 00:16:31,000
Grazie. Grazie, buona giornata.
273
00:16:31,000 --> 00:16:32,560
So we have everything we need now.
274
00:16:32,560 --> 00:16:34,560
Now we have everything we need.
275
00:16:34,560 --> 00:16:35,600
So we can go and eat.
276
00:16:35,600 --> 00:16:37,320
Let's go and cook first.
277
00:16:37,320 --> 00:16:39,440
I forgot that bit.
278
00:16:39,440 --> 00:16:41,480
I forgot that bit...
279
00:16:43,080 --> 00:16:44,600
Una, una...
280
00:16:44,600 --> 00:16:45,800
What are you doing?!
281
00:16:51,240 --> 00:16:54,080
Andrew, today I'm going to cook you
a dish that
282
00:16:54,080 --> 00:16:56,200
is really steeped in history.
283
00:16:56,200 --> 00:16:58,760
I'm going to cook a delicious
centuries-old
284
00:16:58,760 --> 00:17:00,360
fish soup with vegetables.
285
00:17:01,760 --> 00:17:04,240
Let's start with the fish first.
286
00:17:04,240 --> 00:17:06,760
The skin of the skate is very spiky
287
00:17:06,760 --> 00:17:08,960
so it's important to scrape it
288
00:17:08,960 --> 00:17:10,840
properly under the tap.
289
00:17:10,840 --> 00:17:12,360
OK, look, Andrew, I mean,
290
00:17:12,360 --> 00:17:16,120
you can see the wings which
are the eatable part.
291
00:17:16,120 --> 00:17:19,840
I'm going to go pretty
straightforward in, like that.
292
00:17:19,840 --> 00:17:21,000
We're going to go round it.
293
00:17:22,360 --> 00:17:24,760
As you cut you can feel the blade
294
00:17:24,760 --> 00:17:28,520
hitting the bones, so just follow it
the length of the fish.
295
00:17:28,520 --> 00:17:29,560
Eugh...
296
00:17:31,000 --> 00:17:34,520
You also have to remove the guts,
head and tail,
297
00:17:34,520 --> 00:17:39,160
until you're left with just two
beautiful wings.
298
00:17:39,160 --> 00:17:40,840
OK, so now...
299
00:17:40,840 --> 00:17:43,720
Now they really do look like angel
wings, don't they?
300
00:17:43,720 --> 00:17:46,000
Now, this is the most important bit,
OK.
301
00:17:46,000 --> 00:17:50,720
The trickiest job is to remove the
skin from the wings of the skate.
302
00:17:50,720 --> 00:17:55,600
Of course, that's from
the electricity department.
303
00:17:55,600 --> 00:17:59,880
Very good. You'd be a really good
executioner or torturer, I think.
304
00:17:59,880 --> 00:18:01,120
You've got all the skills.
305
00:18:03,040 --> 00:18:05,760
If you carry on like that, chatting,
306
00:18:05,760 --> 00:18:10,040
I'll definitely execute you
before the end.
307
00:18:10,040 --> 00:18:11,440
So here they are.
308
00:18:11,440 --> 00:18:14,920
Usually when you go to the market
this is what you get.
309
00:18:14,920 --> 00:18:17,120
But you're going to use
everything from that,
310
00:18:17,120 --> 00:18:19,000
you're not just going to
use the wing,
311
00:18:19,000 --> 00:18:21,680
you're going to use all the bones
and everything, to make a stock?
312
00:18:21,680 --> 00:18:24,400
That's what I want to make,
a beautiful stock, with that. OK.
313
00:18:24,400 --> 00:18:26,720
So...I got my pan.
314
00:18:27,840 --> 00:18:30,880
I make the fish stock
with carrot, celery,
315
00:18:30,880 --> 00:18:33,320
onions and a couple of bay leaves.
316
00:18:33,320 --> 00:18:35,880
That's what they used to put on
Julius Caesar's head, isn't it?
317
00:18:35,880 --> 00:18:37,360
That's right.
318
00:18:37,360 --> 00:18:39,880
Bit of peppercorns.
319
00:18:39,880 --> 00:18:42,720
And finally, a couple
of juniper cloves.
320
00:18:42,720 --> 00:18:44,120
Interesting. A couple of them,
321
00:18:44,120 --> 00:18:46,560
just to give them a little bit
to sustain the flavour.
322
00:18:46,560 --> 00:18:47,840
Interesting. OK.
323
00:18:52,800 --> 00:18:56,680
Next, I put the fish bones
in with the vegetables,
324
00:18:56,680 --> 00:18:58,920
as well as the two wings.
325
00:18:58,920 --> 00:19:00,880
So we put them in, both of them.
326
00:19:00,880 --> 00:19:02,240
Oh, you put the wings in too.
327
00:19:02,240 --> 00:19:03,720
That's right. Cold water.
328
00:19:04,960 --> 00:19:08,400
The last thing that goes in there
is a little splash of wine.
329
00:19:10,040 --> 00:19:11,400
OK. The idea is this...
330
00:19:11,400 --> 00:19:14,080
I'm going to put that on
a very tiny fire.
331
00:19:14,080 --> 00:19:17,360
Yeah. And I want it to go fast.
332
00:19:17,360 --> 00:19:19,920
You must remember one thing,
that fish bones
333
00:19:19,920 --> 00:19:23,000
release all their flavours
in about 20 minutes.
334
00:19:23,000 --> 00:19:27,840
So then, if you want to make it
strong you have to reduce it.
335
00:19:27,840 --> 00:19:30,080
It's all about, like, very
336
00:19:30,080 --> 00:19:33,920
intelligently stealing the flavour
out of these things, yeah.
337
00:19:33,920 --> 00:19:36,200
You quite often talk
about persuading.
338
00:19:36,200 --> 00:19:41,040
Persuading the food
to cooperate with you.
339
00:19:41,040 --> 00:19:42,680
You have to make it fall in love
340
00:19:42,680 --> 00:19:44,760
with you and you fall in love
with it and
341
00:19:44,760 --> 00:19:47,560
then you make a beautiful thing
now together.
342
00:19:50,800 --> 00:19:52,840
As the stock is heating up, it's
343
00:19:52,840 --> 00:19:55,440
important to skim off
any floating froth,
344
00:19:55,440 --> 00:19:57,560
to make sure that it's clear
when cooked.
345
00:20:00,120 --> 00:20:04,880
After 15 minutes, we can take the
skate wings out and let them rest.
346
00:20:04,880 --> 00:20:06,240
Oh!
347
00:20:06,240 --> 00:20:07,520
I lost a little bit.
348
00:20:07,520 --> 00:20:09,480
So, I'm going to let that cook.
349
00:20:09,480 --> 00:20:10,720
And hold on...
350
00:20:10,720 --> 00:20:12,480
I'm going to show you now
what I'm doing.
351
00:20:14,160 --> 00:20:15,840
OK.
352
00:20:15,840 --> 00:20:18,960
We're going to prepare the broccoli.
Oh, I love these. Yeah?
353
00:20:18,960 --> 00:20:20,200
Such a beautiful thing.
354
00:20:20,200 --> 00:20:22,880
Now, I'm going to cut them
into really
355
00:20:22,880 --> 00:20:24,760
lovely sort of floret
356
00:20:24,760 --> 00:20:26,960
as they call it in English, no?
357
00:20:26,960 --> 00:20:30,040
And some of these will become
a little bit more overcooked
358
00:20:30,040 --> 00:20:31,720
and melt away in the sauce.
359
00:20:31,720 --> 00:20:33,640
Some of this will be really nice and
360
00:20:33,640 --> 00:20:35,520
give you a little crunch, you know.
361
00:20:36,800 --> 00:20:39,920
Next, I start preparing
the base for the soup.
362
00:20:39,920 --> 00:20:41,240
Bit of olive oil...
363
00:20:41,240 --> 00:20:45,200
Onions, celery, carrots, garlic,
the Romanesco broccoli,
364
00:20:45,200 --> 00:20:47,440
and the anchovies. Oo-ooh!
365
00:20:47,440 --> 00:20:48,800
And I put it there.
366
00:20:49,920 --> 00:20:51,960
OK. I'm going to let
367
00:20:51,960 --> 00:20:54,600
those melt away...
368
00:20:55,600 --> 00:20:58,000
..with it, eh. Mmm, good smell.
369
00:21:00,280 --> 00:21:02,040
Vino, in it.
370
00:21:02,040 --> 00:21:03,800
SIZZLING
371
00:21:03,800 --> 00:21:05,640
You hear that..?
HE IMITATES SIZZLING
372
00:21:05,640 --> 00:21:08,800
That's what I want.
373
00:21:08,800 --> 00:21:10,520
A few pieces of tomato.
374
00:21:10,520 --> 00:21:14,800
And to give it an absolutely
amazing colour, tomato paste.
375
00:21:23,640 --> 00:21:25,440
This is my stock.
376
00:21:27,080 --> 00:21:31,080
We're going to put some
of the stock on that.
377
00:21:31,080 --> 00:21:34,200
I'm going to let it cook
for at least...
378
00:21:35,400 --> 00:21:36,680
..ten minutes.
379
00:21:38,040 --> 00:21:40,480
Time to finish the dish by adding
a short type of pasta
380
00:21:40,480 --> 00:21:41,760
that's perfect for soups.
381
00:21:43,720 --> 00:21:45,000
Don't forget to stir it.
382
00:21:45,000 --> 00:21:46,880
You don't want the pasta
to stick at the bottom.
383
00:21:49,760 --> 00:21:51,920
Oh, so that's the finishing touch.
384
00:21:51,920 --> 00:21:53,360
Oo-oo-ooh!
385
00:21:55,520 --> 00:21:57,680
What a lovely idea for a dish.
386
00:21:59,960 --> 00:22:01,600
OK, you can prepare the table now.
387
00:22:01,600 --> 00:22:03,240
Because we're nearly there, eh.
388
00:22:06,040 --> 00:22:07,920
Come, Andrew. Woh-oh...
389
00:22:12,200 --> 00:22:14,520
Oh, the smell is fantastic.
390
00:22:19,920 --> 00:22:23,840
Giorgio, that is fantastic.
391
00:22:23,840 --> 00:22:25,640
This is Rome.
392
00:22:25,640 --> 00:22:28,000
Intenso, it's intense.
393
00:22:28,000 --> 00:22:31,160
Also, the broccolo adds this
really nice flavour
394
00:22:31,160 --> 00:22:32,920
and it adds a little bit of
395
00:22:32,920 --> 00:22:35,000
bitterness to that. Yep.
396
00:22:35,000 --> 00:22:39,000
If you came to Rome and you were
a pilgrim, not so much money,
397
00:22:39,000 --> 00:22:40,560
you might end up eating this.
398
00:22:40,560 --> 00:22:43,280
Definitely. That was the staple.
399
00:22:43,280 --> 00:22:44,640
Really? Absolutely.
400
00:22:44,640 --> 00:22:45,760
If you go back in time...
401
00:22:45,760 --> 00:22:46,840
That's it.
402
00:22:48,160 --> 00:22:51,360
The ideal dish for a tired pilgrim.
403
00:22:51,360 --> 00:22:54,400
Perfected, no wonder, here in Rome.
404
00:23:01,320 --> 00:23:03,400
Following the counterreformation,
405
00:23:03,400 --> 00:23:05,600
the Catholic Church did its utmost
406
00:23:05,600 --> 00:23:07,960
to restore Rome's
spiritual authority...
407
00:23:09,040 --> 00:23:11,080
..raising the great dome
of St Peter's...
408
00:23:14,520 --> 00:23:18,320
..and building a multitude of other
churches as beacons to the faithful.
409
00:23:19,400 --> 00:23:22,760
Thousands of ragged pilgrims
in search of redemption
410
00:23:22,760 --> 00:23:27,560
flooded the city, making Rome
a city of stark contrasts.
411
00:23:27,560 --> 00:23:28,760
Rich architecture...
412
00:23:30,840 --> 00:23:34,040
..alongside desperately poor people,
living on the streets...
413
00:23:36,400 --> 00:23:39,400
..and nobody captured that better
than the painter Caravaggio.
414
00:23:42,440 --> 00:23:45,080
I want to show Giorgio two of
my favourite paintings...
415
00:23:47,040 --> 00:23:52,720
..breathtaking works that would give
the travellers hope and consolation.
416
00:23:52,720 --> 00:23:56,960
So, Giorgio, this is the burial
chapel of Tiberio Cerasi.
417
00:23:56,960 --> 00:24:01,240
He was the principal banker to
the Pope, had a lot of money,
418
00:24:01,240 --> 00:24:02,640
but he knew he was dying,
419
00:24:02,640 --> 00:24:06,080
and so he commissioned
the paintings in this chapel,
420
00:24:06,080 --> 00:24:09,160
two of them are by Caravaggio.
421
00:24:09,160 --> 00:24:11,240
This one...
422
00:24:11,240 --> 00:24:13,320
..shows St Peter.
423
00:24:13,320 --> 00:24:16,240
And immediately you are face-to-face
424
00:24:16,240 --> 00:24:19,120
with Caravaggio's great revolution,
425
00:24:19,120 --> 00:24:23,800
like Fellini so many years later,
to cast the people from the street,
426
00:24:23,800 --> 00:24:27,520
from the streets of Rome,
and to put them in his paintings.
427
00:24:27,520 --> 00:24:30,000
And he's doing that here,
with this terrible scene,
428
00:24:30,000 --> 00:24:32,120
the crucifixion of St Peter.
429
00:24:32,120 --> 00:24:36,320
It's almost as if he might have used
as his model that poor man,
430
00:24:36,320 --> 00:24:38,600
that beggar that we saw on the steps
431
00:24:38,600 --> 00:24:41,080
of the other church
around the corner.
432
00:24:41,080 --> 00:24:45,000
And in his own time these paintings
were really shocking.
433
00:24:45,000 --> 00:24:46,640
Oh, it's shocking now
434
00:24:46,640 --> 00:24:48,400
with the imagery that we
are used to
435
00:24:48,400 --> 00:24:50,960
but it's still quite powerful,
this one, you know.
436
00:24:50,960 --> 00:24:55,160
And that dirty feet
it just says so much.
437
00:24:55,160 --> 00:24:57,720
Because Italian painting at that
moment, before Caravaggio,
438
00:24:57,720 --> 00:24:59,360
was very artificial, very mannered,
439
00:24:59,360 --> 00:25:00,960
very contrived,
440
00:25:00,960 --> 00:25:03,520
very little smell of reality in it,
441
00:25:03,520 --> 00:25:07,440
and suddenly with Caravaggio
you've got Peter's sunburnt face,
442
00:25:07,440 --> 00:25:10,120
his scrawny torso,
443
00:25:10,120 --> 00:25:12,360
his agonised expression,
444
00:25:12,360 --> 00:25:15,200
and Caravaggio's painting it almost
445
00:25:15,200 --> 00:25:18,600
as a grisly scene of
hydraulic engineering.
446
00:25:18,600 --> 00:25:19,880
Man driven.
447
00:25:19,880 --> 00:25:22,880
You're going to lift him up,
put him on the cross.
448
00:25:24,080 --> 00:25:26,440
But I think also Caravaggio's
giving hope.
449
00:25:26,440 --> 00:25:28,760
Because this church
is the first church
450
00:25:28,760 --> 00:25:31,080
that you'd come to
when you enter Rome
451
00:25:31,080 --> 00:25:34,080
because that, outside,
was once the gate to Rome.
452
00:25:34,080 --> 00:25:36,400
Now there's a road outside,
but in the past it was fields.
453
00:25:37,560 --> 00:25:40,680
You had dirty feet, you identify
yourself with them.
454
00:25:40,680 --> 00:25:42,720
Exactly. Yeah.
455
00:25:42,720 --> 00:25:47,760
Cerasi, whose mortuary chapel
this is, he was clever.
456
00:25:47,760 --> 00:25:51,880
Not only did he commission
Caravaggio to decorate the chapel,
457
00:25:51,880 --> 00:25:56,360
but he also got the leading
other painter of Rome at the time,
458
00:25:56,360 --> 00:25:58,320
Annibale Carracci,
459
00:25:58,320 --> 00:26:02,320
to paint the main altarpiece.
460
00:26:02,320 --> 00:26:04,240
Below you've got the Apostles
461
00:26:04,240 --> 00:26:07,520
and it shows the moment
when the Madonna's soul
462
00:26:07,520 --> 00:26:09,320
is assumed into heaven.
463
00:26:09,320 --> 00:26:12,080
Up she rises into the skies.
464
00:26:14,800 --> 00:26:17,560
This is really the dawn
of the baroque style.
465
00:26:18,760 --> 00:26:22,640
And what the baroque style
exists to do is to make us,
466
00:26:22,640 --> 00:26:26,800
the worshippers coming to church,
feel a little bit smaller,
467
00:26:26,800 --> 00:26:29,160
a little bit on our knees,
468
00:26:29,160 --> 00:26:31,720
a little bit "Oh!", in awe.
469
00:26:31,720 --> 00:26:33,800
This is a painting that says, "Yes,
470
00:26:33,800 --> 00:26:37,720
"you can come here to worship
but remember your place."
471
00:26:37,720 --> 00:26:41,000
And what's interesting is that
the Carracci painting,
472
00:26:41,000 --> 00:26:46,680
that was installed before Caravaggio
painted his second picture.
473
00:26:46,680 --> 00:26:48,040
And what did he do?
474
00:26:49,040 --> 00:26:51,920
It's this enormous horse.
475
00:26:51,920 --> 00:26:55,240
And he puts the horse's arse
in the face...
476
00:26:57,200 --> 00:26:59,000
..of the Virgin of Carracci.
477
00:26:59,000 --> 00:27:01,040
As if to say,
478
00:27:01,040 --> 00:27:03,040
"This is what I think...
479
00:27:03,040 --> 00:27:06,400
"..of your elevated Christianity."
480
00:27:06,400 --> 00:27:07,920
I like this Caravaggio guy.
481
00:27:09,400 --> 00:27:11,600
He's quite cool. He really is.
482
00:27:11,600 --> 00:27:13,200
He's cool, man.
483
00:27:13,200 --> 00:27:17,920
This is St Paul or Saul as he was,
484
00:27:17,920 --> 00:27:20,200
at the moment of his conversion.
485
00:27:20,200 --> 00:27:22,160
That's the subject of the painting.
486
00:27:22,160 --> 00:27:24,360
This is the moment
on the road to Damascus
487
00:27:24,360 --> 00:27:26,600
when he becomes a Christian.
488
00:27:27,640 --> 00:27:29,600
Boom, you can hear it.
489
00:27:29,600 --> 00:27:30,920
I never fell off the horse.
490
00:27:30,920 --> 00:27:33,240
I fell off a few motorbikes.
491
00:27:33,240 --> 00:27:34,400
I never fell off the horse.
492
00:27:34,400 --> 00:27:36,440
But I can, you know, kind of like,
493
00:27:36,440 --> 00:27:40,160
you can see he's been struck and
he's almost underneath the horse.
494
00:27:40,160 --> 00:27:43,480
Caravaggio means the horse
and the groom...
495
00:27:43,480 --> 00:27:45,160
..who looks a bit like Joseph,
496
00:27:45,160 --> 00:27:47,400
I think to evoke the idea
of the Nativity.
497
00:27:47,400 --> 00:27:48,960
So you do a kind of double take
498
00:27:48,960 --> 00:27:51,240
cos you look down from them
and you expect to see
499
00:27:51,240 --> 00:27:52,840
the baby Jesus by the manger.
500
00:27:52,840 --> 00:27:54,760
But, no, you see Paul.
501
00:27:54,760 --> 00:27:56,880
But then, after you've done
the double take,
502
00:27:56,880 --> 00:27:58,760
I think that's when
the meaning unfolds.
503
00:27:58,760 --> 00:28:01,560
Because, yes, at this moment
of his conversion,
504
00:28:01,560 --> 00:28:04,720
Paul is like the little baby Jesus
in the manger.
505
00:28:04,720 --> 00:28:08,480
He's lying helpless on the ground.
506
00:28:08,480 --> 00:28:11,680
And then Caravaggio,
with a stroke of genius, I think,
507
00:28:11,680 --> 00:28:14,560
has Paul stretch out his arms,
508
00:28:14,560 --> 00:28:19,720
so in the same moment he's also
Christ on the cross.
509
00:28:19,720 --> 00:28:21,320
So light floods him.
510
00:28:21,320 --> 00:28:23,400
He is spiritually enlightened.
511
00:28:23,400 --> 00:28:28,280
It's one of the most amazing
pictures in the world.
512
00:28:28,280 --> 00:28:32,840
I think this is one of the best
painting I ever seen in my life.
513
00:28:32,840 --> 00:28:34,440
He's a communicator...
514
00:28:35,480 --> 00:28:38,040
..to the people like me.
515
00:28:38,040 --> 00:28:40,200
And that is something that I would
516
00:28:40,200 --> 00:28:42,600
now come to the church
to have a look at that.
517
00:28:43,880 --> 00:28:46,800
So, you vote for Caravaggio?
518
00:28:46,800 --> 00:28:48,480
Due a zero.
519
00:28:51,960 --> 00:28:53,920
For centuries after his death,
520
00:28:53,920 --> 00:28:57,960
Caravaggio was sneered at
as a crude and vulgar artist.
521
00:29:01,680 --> 00:29:03,800
He was rediscovered partly by
522
00:29:03,800 --> 00:29:06,880
Italian film-makers,
including Fellini,
523
00:29:06,880 --> 00:29:09,560
who loved his cinematic use of light
524
00:29:09,560 --> 00:29:12,240
as well as the way
he used real people.
525
00:29:14,840 --> 00:29:16,200
And since the mid-20th century,
526
00:29:16,200 --> 00:29:19,240
Caravaggio's reputation
has been on the rise.
527
00:29:19,240 --> 00:29:22,320
He's now one of the world's
best-loved painters.
528
00:29:30,120 --> 00:29:32,320
Oh! Oh!
529
00:29:32,320 --> 00:29:33,520
Va bene...
530
00:29:34,600 --> 00:29:37,160
This is the old Roman Way.
531
00:29:37,160 --> 00:29:39,960
Oh, man! Julius Caesar used to come
down this road, man.
532
00:29:39,960 --> 00:29:42,040
Got to be excited about it.
533
00:29:45,160 --> 00:29:47,760
Rome is the political
centre of Italy.
534
00:29:47,760 --> 00:29:51,840
Nowhere else will you find so many
politician and bureaucrats...
535
00:29:51,840 --> 00:29:54,040
..or so many limousines
stuck in traffic.
536
00:29:55,840 --> 00:29:59,640
Ordinary Romans are used to rubbing
shoulders with those in power
537
00:29:59,640 --> 00:30:02,600
and they are prepared
to put up a fight.
538
00:30:02,600 --> 00:30:04,840
GIORGIO SCREAMS
539
00:30:07,160 --> 00:30:08,520
Let's go and have a coffee.
540
00:30:10,960 --> 00:30:13,400
Romans love nothing more than
discussing politics
541
00:30:13,400 --> 00:30:16,240
from their first
espresso of the day.
542
00:30:16,240 --> 00:30:18,520
To be the mayor of this town,
543
00:30:18,520 --> 00:30:20,760
I think is the hardest job.
544
00:30:20,760 --> 00:30:24,760
Whatever you do, you'll always have
someone who says the contrary.
545
00:30:24,760 --> 00:30:26,960
How many bureaucrats
are there in Rome?
546
00:30:26,960 --> 00:30:28,120
Well, that's the thing.
547
00:30:28,120 --> 00:30:30,400
Quanti burocrati a Roma?
548
00:30:30,400 --> 00:30:31,480
Troppi. Troppi!
549
00:30:32,520 --> 00:30:34,480
Too many, too many.
550
00:30:36,360 --> 00:30:37,960
But, at the end of the day,
551
00:30:37,960 --> 00:30:40,800
Rome would be always Rome
because of the people of Rome.
552
00:30:40,800 --> 00:30:42,840
Yeah. You can put
as many laws as they want,
553
00:30:42,840 --> 00:30:44,880
but they will do whatever they want,
554
00:30:44,880 --> 00:30:47,800
because they've been doing that
for the eternal time.
555
00:30:47,800 --> 00:30:49,840
That's why they've been here
for such a long time,
556
00:30:49,840 --> 00:30:51,520
because that's what they do.
557
00:30:51,520 --> 00:30:52,880
They do what they want.
558
00:30:52,880 --> 00:30:54,760
I read in the paper that the
559
00:30:54,760 --> 00:30:58,120
highest-paid head of
traffic wardens in the world
560
00:30:58,120 --> 00:31:00,720
is the head of the
traffic wardens of Rome.
561
00:31:00,720 --> 00:31:03,120
He gets paid more than the
President of the United States!
562
00:31:03,120 --> 00:31:05,600
Yeah, exactly, he gets paid,
like, half a million pounds.
563
00:31:05,600 --> 00:31:08,280
And, still, everybody parks
where they like.
564
00:31:11,200 --> 00:31:13,160
Everybody do what they want.
565
00:31:13,160 --> 00:31:15,360
I want to take Giorgio
to see a monument
566
00:31:15,360 --> 00:31:17,920
that hails the moment
when Rome first became
567
00:31:17,920 --> 00:31:20,120
the centre of
modern Italian politics.
568
00:31:23,320 --> 00:31:25,360
At the end of the 19th century Italy
569
00:31:25,360 --> 00:31:27,400
was still divided into many states,
570
00:31:27,400 --> 00:31:28,680
under different rulers.
571
00:31:30,160 --> 00:31:35,400
But in 1861 the Savoy family, under
their king, Vittorio Emanuele,
572
00:31:35,400 --> 00:31:40,400
had placed their stamp on the
unification of the country.
573
00:31:40,400 --> 00:31:43,680
And ten years later declared
Rome its capital.
574
00:31:44,680 --> 00:31:46,920
For the Roman people, it also meant
575
00:31:46,920 --> 00:31:49,720
the end of over a thousand years
of papal rule.
576
00:31:49,720 --> 00:31:52,080
So to celebrate this moment,
577
00:31:52,080 --> 00:31:54,560
and the crowning of Italy's
first king...
578
00:31:57,600 --> 00:31:59,760
..the Vittoriano was erected,
579
00:31:59,760 --> 00:32:01,640
right in the centre of Rome,
580
00:32:01,640 --> 00:32:03,480
next to the Imperial Forum.
581
00:32:04,520 --> 00:32:06,320
What a great beauty.
582
00:32:06,320 --> 00:32:08,560
Which one? I like these bits.
583
00:32:08,560 --> 00:32:10,200
I'm not so sure about...
584
00:32:10,200 --> 00:32:11,480
That big one, over there.
585
00:32:12,800 --> 00:32:16,240
When you see it in the context
of real Roman ruins,
586
00:32:16,240 --> 00:32:18,320
I think you get a sense of how...
587
00:32:18,320 --> 00:32:20,760
..just crazily enormous,
588
00:32:20,760 --> 00:32:23,080
how glaringly white,
589
00:32:23,080 --> 00:32:26,240
how astonishingly pompous,
590
00:32:26,240 --> 00:32:29,160
is the monument to
Vittorio Emanuele.
591
00:32:29,160 --> 00:32:31,760
I mean, this is
Vittorio Emanuele coming to Rome,
592
00:32:31,760 --> 00:32:36,000
saying,
"Italy, one Italy, under me".
593
00:32:36,000 --> 00:32:38,240
And he's basically
594
00:32:38,240 --> 00:32:42,800
trying to replace Marco Aurelio,
Marcus Aurelius, who's in the back,
595
00:32:42,800 --> 00:32:44,880
obscured almost,
from the view of the Romans,
596
00:32:44,880 --> 00:32:47,240
by this great white elephant.
597
00:32:47,240 --> 00:32:50,640
With him on his horse, he's saying,
"I'm the new emperor."
598
00:32:50,640 --> 00:32:53,440
Yeah. It's the size of a mountain.
599
00:32:53,440 --> 00:32:58,720
I mean, I think it's 70 metres high,
more than 100 metres across.
600
00:32:58,720 --> 00:33:01,720
It was inaugurated, I think, in 1912
601
00:33:01,720 --> 00:33:04,240
and finished 13 years later,
602
00:33:04,240 --> 00:33:09,120
the greatest job creation scheme in
the history of Italian sculpture.
603
00:33:09,120 --> 00:33:10,560
The Roman never liked...
604
00:33:10,560 --> 00:33:12,440
You know what they call this?
605
00:33:12,440 --> 00:33:15,160
They call it the typewriter.
The typewriter? Yes.
606
00:33:15,160 --> 00:33:16,800
It looks like a typewriter.
607
00:33:16,800 --> 00:33:18,680
You know, one of the old ones,
that you just...
608
00:33:18,680 --> 00:33:21,480
Swings along. I think that's
the whole problem, though,
609
00:33:21,480 --> 00:33:24,240
is that the language that's being
typed out on the typewriter is not
610
00:33:24,240 --> 00:33:26,560
really Roman, not Italian.
611
00:33:26,560 --> 00:33:29,400
This is the classicism of Germany.
612
00:33:29,400 --> 00:33:31,640
I mean, it could almost be
made of ice.
613
00:33:31,640 --> 00:33:35,480
It's glaring, it's white, it's
enormous, it's like the Valhalla.
614
00:33:35,480 --> 00:33:37,120
This is Wagner, not Verdi.
615
00:33:37,120 --> 00:33:41,320
Yeah. The whiteness really puts it
at odds with everything else.
616
00:33:41,320 --> 00:33:43,320
Because, I don't know, like,
look at those tree,
617
00:33:43,320 --> 00:33:45,440
looks in harmony with
the church and things.
618
00:33:45,440 --> 00:33:48,920
You kind of like, the shapes,
they're all working, these columns,
619
00:33:48,920 --> 00:33:52,360
and suddenly it's like an eyesore,
isn't it?
620
00:33:52,360 --> 00:33:55,520
Think about the Capitoline Hill
is just behind that.
621
00:33:55,520 --> 00:33:59,320
So in order to build this,
what did they build it on top?
622
00:33:59,320 --> 00:34:01,080
Surely there must be something.
623
00:34:01,080 --> 00:34:03,720
Yeah. No, no, they did,
they knocked down some temples,
624
00:34:03,720 --> 00:34:06,200
they covered up a piece of
ancient Roman history
625
00:34:06,200 --> 00:34:08,680
to create the modern monument.
626
00:34:08,680 --> 00:34:12,560
I mean, this is absolutely
in the centre of the city.
627
00:34:12,560 --> 00:34:15,720
And I think that's again part of
the problem the people here
628
00:34:15,720 --> 00:34:17,120
have had accepting it -
629
00:34:17,120 --> 00:34:20,920
they know that this has abolished
part of their own history.
630
00:34:20,920 --> 00:34:22,760
And so there he is on his horse,
631
00:34:22,760 --> 00:34:24,320
the new Marcus Aurelius,
632
00:34:24,320 --> 00:34:25,840
Vittorio Emanuele II,
633
00:34:25,840 --> 00:34:27,240
and he's saying,
634
00:34:27,240 --> 00:34:30,000
"Friends, Romans, countrymen,
635
00:34:30,000 --> 00:34:31,480
"lend me your ears", but I think
636
00:34:31,480 --> 00:34:33,680
they never really did
lend them their ears.
637
00:34:35,320 --> 00:34:37,560
I really don't like the typewriter.
638
00:34:37,560 --> 00:34:40,720
But the Savoy family rule
wasn't all bad news for Rome.
639
00:34:43,960 --> 00:34:48,440
In fact, one of my favourite
districts was created under them.
640
00:34:48,440 --> 00:34:51,280
A place made for the people.
641
00:34:51,280 --> 00:34:53,400
And I really want to show it
to Andrew.
642
00:34:55,000 --> 00:34:57,160
At the beginning of
the 20th century,
643
00:34:57,160 --> 00:34:59,000
from being a sleepy village,
644
00:34:59,000 --> 00:35:02,920
Rome rapidly became
a frenetic European capital.
645
00:35:04,200 --> 00:35:06,320
The Savoy family started building
646
00:35:06,320 --> 00:35:08,640
social housing for workers
such as the Garbatella.
647
00:35:10,520 --> 00:35:12,800
Once at the very edges of the city,
648
00:35:12,800 --> 00:35:14,800
and now right in the centre,
649
00:35:14,800 --> 00:35:17,080
only ten minutes by scooter
from the Coliseum.
650
00:35:19,720 --> 00:35:21,720
Here we are, in Garbatella, man.
651
00:35:23,360 --> 00:35:24,760
Where are we going, up the steps?
652
00:35:24,760 --> 00:35:25,800
Yeah, let's go up there.
653
00:35:27,520 --> 00:35:29,040
Come and have a look at this.
654
00:35:29,040 --> 00:35:34,760
Garbatella, garbato,
means to be kind, you know.
655
00:35:34,760 --> 00:35:36,920
So this is a place where
you're welcome.
656
00:35:36,920 --> 00:35:40,000
And look, we are in
the centre of town.
657
00:35:40,000 --> 00:35:41,560
This is not the Rome that I know.
658
00:35:41,560 --> 00:35:43,640
I mean, this is so peaceful.
659
00:35:43,640 --> 00:35:47,400
Where are the guys on motor
scooters, zipping past you?
660
00:35:48,720 --> 00:35:52,000
Absolutely. But look,
the architecture is incredible.
661
00:35:52,000 --> 00:35:55,240
Look at this place.
But this is the 1920s.
662
00:35:55,240 --> 00:35:59,520
When I see a house like that, I
mean, my association is to think,
663
00:35:59,520 --> 00:36:01,920
"Suddenly I am actually
in the countryside in Italy."
664
00:36:01,920 --> 00:36:04,800
Yeah, little patch where you can
grow his little basil
665
00:36:04,800 --> 00:36:07,840
and his little potato or tomato.
666
00:36:07,840 --> 00:36:10,320
But what I love about it is
that it is so Italian.
667
00:36:10,320 --> 00:36:13,440
It's a little bit chaotic,
a little bit unkempt,
668
00:36:13,440 --> 00:36:14,760
but in a very beautiful way.
669
00:36:14,760 --> 00:36:18,120
Like, look where they've got the two
pipes presumably were there one time
670
00:36:18,120 --> 00:36:20,240
but they haven't bothered
to paint it back.
671
00:36:20,240 --> 00:36:21,920
There's the plaster
round the window.
672
00:36:21,920 --> 00:36:23,840
This is charm.
It's charming, it's lovely.
673
00:36:23,840 --> 00:36:25,520
It's really like a little paradise.
674
00:36:25,520 --> 00:36:28,040
From the people
I've seen living here,
675
00:36:28,040 --> 00:36:30,520
quite a lot of them are
getting on a bit now.
676
00:36:30,520 --> 00:36:32,840
It's as if they are part
of the original community.
677
00:36:32,840 --> 00:36:34,800
People in their 60s,
people in their 70s...
678
00:36:34,800 --> 00:36:36,240
You want to live with the people
679
00:36:36,240 --> 00:36:38,880
that you love and you want to die
with the people that you love.
680
00:36:38,880 --> 00:36:40,760
Surrounded by it,
the sense of community,
681
00:36:40,760 --> 00:36:42,400
makes you feel like a human.
682
00:36:52,920 --> 00:36:56,000
Buongiorno. Buongiorno.
683
00:36:56,000 --> 00:36:58,400
Qual'e il nomo del tuo cane? Pepe.
684
00:36:58,400 --> 00:37:00,920
Pepe! Buongiorno, Pepe.
Cacio e pepe.
685
00:37:00,920 --> 00:37:02,840
Perfect.
686
00:37:02,840 --> 00:37:05,840
Salve. Buongiorno.
687
00:37:08,920 --> 00:37:11,160
In designing the Garbatella,
688
00:37:11,160 --> 00:37:15,280
Rome's urban planners were greatly
influenced by the English trend
689
00:37:15,280 --> 00:37:19,000
known as the garden city movement
of the early 20th century.
690
00:37:19,000 --> 00:37:20,880
So in a way,
691
00:37:20,880 --> 00:37:22,440
this is a Roman version of
692
00:37:22,440 --> 00:37:24,640
Hampstead Garden Suburb in London.
693
00:37:27,680 --> 00:37:30,880
But the character of this village
on the edge of the city
694
00:37:30,880 --> 00:37:32,520
will change in the 1920s...
695
00:37:33,640 --> 00:37:35,360
..when the fascists came to power.
696
00:37:40,240 --> 00:37:42,840
Fascism and its drive
for modernisation
697
00:37:42,840 --> 00:37:44,560
took an iron grip of Italy,
698
00:37:44,560 --> 00:37:45,840
and most of all, Rome.
699
00:37:48,360 --> 00:37:51,600
Thousands more workers from the
countryside flooded into the city.
700
00:37:55,040 --> 00:37:57,920
And to house them,
a new generation of architects
701
00:37:57,920 --> 00:38:02,200
came up with grander designs and
bigger buildings for Garbatella.
702
00:38:06,360 --> 00:38:09,960
You see, Andrew, just round
the corner it changes completely.
703
00:38:09,960 --> 00:38:12,400
Wow. And they're just so grand.
704
00:38:12,400 --> 00:38:14,760
They are. They're like palaces.
705
00:38:14,760 --> 00:38:17,720
This style is called baroquetto.
706
00:38:17,720 --> 00:38:19,480
Baroquetto.
707
00:38:19,480 --> 00:38:21,440
That's right.
Which means little Baroque.
708
00:38:21,440 --> 00:38:23,680
Yeah, baby Baroque.
Baby Baroque.
709
00:38:23,680 --> 00:38:26,680
It's fantastic cos it is!
That's like a Baroque palace.
710
00:38:26,680 --> 00:38:30,640
Except you see these heads normally
on an aristocratic palace.
711
00:38:30,640 --> 00:38:33,520
That's right. But here, the heads
712
00:38:33,520 --> 00:38:36,800
are on the side of
a council flat block,
713
00:38:36,800 --> 00:38:40,400
and they're the heads of people
from the 1920s, or maybe the 1930s.
714
00:38:40,400 --> 00:38:42,200
Look at her little bob hairstyle.
715
00:38:42,200 --> 00:38:44,920
Unbelievable, isn't it?
It's fantastic.
716
00:38:44,920 --> 00:38:48,680
Look, there's something like a
gargoyle on the front of the house.
717
00:38:49,720 --> 00:38:50,920
It's not just building.
718
00:38:50,920 --> 00:38:54,320
I can imagine things happening
behind those closed windows,
719
00:38:54,320 --> 00:38:56,800
all those little houses
with all these little kitchens
720
00:38:56,800 --> 00:38:59,680
and a lot of this lovely food
that comes from the countryside,
721
00:38:59,680 --> 00:39:00,920
from the connections.
722
00:39:00,920 --> 00:39:03,040
And they have...
The market is very alive.
723
00:39:03,040 --> 00:39:05,320
This is the spirits of Rome,
724
00:39:05,320 --> 00:39:07,480
is within these people.
725
00:39:07,480 --> 00:39:09,800
Yeah. You know, everything comes
and goes in this city,
726
00:39:09,800 --> 00:39:11,080
everything gets buried,
727
00:39:11,080 --> 00:39:12,880
it's just the people
who stays on top.
728
00:39:16,880 --> 00:39:18,920
It's unusual,
pretty amazing, really,
729
00:39:18,920 --> 00:39:21,400
to see a fully working community,
730
00:39:21,400 --> 00:39:25,440
almost like a village, right in the
middle of the 21st-century city.
731
00:39:30,480 --> 00:39:32,520
Garbatella, bella, Andrew.
732
00:39:32,520 --> 00:39:34,480
If I had to live somewhere in Rome,
733
00:39:34,480 --> 00:39:37,560
I would love to live in Garbatella.
734
00:39:37,560 --> 00:39:39,720
I think it fits my style.
735
00:39:42,160 --> 00:39:45,800
Yeah, I can see you, just in your
vest, like, cooking outside, maybe.
736
00:39:48,360 --> 00:39:50,280
Now we're going back onto
the cobbles.
737
00:39:50,280 --> 00:39:51,680
Uh-uh-uh-uh-uh...
738
00:39:59,200 --> 00:40:02,640
You can feel the ancient power
of the people all over Rome,
739
00:40:02,640 --> 00:40:04,960
even in some unlikely places...
740
00:40:06,360 --> 00:40:09,280
..such as the palaces of
the richest noble families.
741
00:40:10,520 --> 00:40:15,160
Because they knew just how hard it
was to rule in this fickle town,
742
00:40:15,160 --> 00:40:19,320
they built their palazzi-like
fortresses to keep the mob at bay.
743
00:40:20,560 --> 00:40:25,960
And none was more fortress-like than
the stunning Palazzo Farnese.
744
00:40:25,960 --> 00:40:28,360
Palazzo Farnese. What a palace, eh?
745
00:40:28,360 --> 00:40:31,640
It's got 40 windows
just on the front. Amazing.
746
00:40:38,200 --> 00:40:41,400
The Farnese family was one of
the great forces in Rome
747
00:40:41,400 --> 00:40:43,360
from the
15th to the 18th century.
748
00:40:45,120 --> 00:40:47,560
Many military commanders
and cardinals,
749
00:40:47,560 --> 00:40:49,440
two popes and the Queen of Spain
750
00:40:49,440 --> 00:40:51,600
can be found in their family tree.
751
00:40:56,320 --> 00:40:58,320
And thanks to their huge riches,
752
00:40:58,320 --> 00:41:01,160
the family constructed the most
magnificent
753
00:41:01,160 --> 00:41:03,840
high Renaissance dwelling
in all of Rome,
754
00:41:03,840 --> 00:41:07,160
designed by Antonio da Sangallo
the Younger,
755
00:41:07,160 --> 00:41:08,920
and a chap called Michelangelo.
756
00:41:12,800 --> 00:41:15,720
I'm taking Giorgio to see
one particular room
757
00:41:15,720 --> 00:41:20,120
with a truly amazing series
of frescoes by Annibale Carracci...
758
00:41:22,520 --> 00:41:27,120
..the same artist Caravaggio had
mocked with the rear end of a horse.
759
00:41:27,120 --> 00:41:29,760
Here, Carracci was on top form.
760
00:41:30,920 --> 00:41:33,480
Look at this,
the sun has come to greet us.
761
00:41:33,480 --> 00:41:35,640
Now, don't look up,
that's the only rule.
762
00:41:35,640 --> 00:41:38,040
OK. You can look at the garden.
763
00:41:38,040 --> 00:41:39,960
Wow. And we're right in
the middle of the row.
764
00:41:39,960 --> 00:41:41,640
In the middle of the row.
765
00:41:41,640 --> 00:41:43,960
OK, now we're going to do it.
766
00:41:43,960 --> 00:41:45,840
OK? OK.
767
00:41:45,840 --> 00:41:49,320
Uno, due...
768
00:41:49,320 --> 00:41:50,760
Three.
769
00:41:54,920 --> 00:41:56,680
Wow!
770
00:41:57,960 --> 00:41:59,840
Look at that! Look at that.
771
00:42:09,400 --> 00:42:14,080
Started 1597, finished 1608.
772
00:42:14,080 --> 00:42:16,720
11 years in the making.
773
00:42:19,000 --> 00:42:21,800
And the theme of the whole thing...
774
00:42:24,480 --> 00:42:27,920
# ..the power of love
775
00:42:27,920 --> 00:42:30,320
# A force from above. #
776
00:42:32,160 --> 00:42:34,080
Really! That is the subject!
777
00:42:43,280 --> 00:42:45,640
You've got Diana falling in love,
778
00:42:45,640 --> 00:42:47,840
despite her vows of chastity,
779
00:42:47,840 --> 00:42:53,040
falling in love with the shepherd
Endymion, sleeping muscle man.
780
00:42:54,240 --> 00:42:57,560
You've got the abduction of Galatea,
781
00:42:57,560 --> 00:43:02,200
you've got Jupiter and Juno.
782
00:43:02,200 --> 00:43:05,280
We've got Bacchus and Ariadne.
783
00:43:05,280 --> 00:43:11,080
And here he is, in his golden
carriage drawn by tigers...
784
00:43:11,080 --> 00:43:14,200
..with rams, symbols of sex
and lust.
785
00:43:15,240 --> 00:43:16,640
It's almost too much, isn't it?
786
00:43:16,640 --> 00:43:20,240
It really, like, is incredible.
787
00:43:20,240 --> 00:43:25,280
The figure of the lady is so
beautiful, rounded and beautiful.
788
00:43:25,280 --> 00:43:28,240
They're not the model of the modern
supermodel, let's put it that way.
789
00:43:28,240 --> 00:43:30,080
That's for sure.
They're not skin and bones.
790
00:43:30,080 --> 00:43:31,960
But they're much more beautiful.
791
00:43:31,960 --> 00:43:33,320
It's quite a thing.
792
00:43:33,320 --> 00:43:36,560
And it was all commissioned
by a cardinal.
793
00:43:36,560 --> 00:43:37,880
Odoardo Farnese.
794
00:43:37,880 --> 00:43:42,160
Why would a cardinal have
something like that in his house?
795
00:43:42,160 --> 00:43:45,440
Well, actually, in the Renaissance,
they weren't prudish.
796
00:43:45,440 --> 00:43:50,360
There was a tradition
of noble families commissioning,
797
00:43:50,360 --> 00:43:52,880
usually on the occasion
of a marriage,
798
00:43:52,880 --> 00:43:56,480
quite sexy, secular images.
799
00:43:56,480 --> 00:43:59,200
Almost like encouragements
to procreation.
800
00:43:59,200 --> 00:44:02,080
This is a message from the cardinal
to all of his children.
801
00:44:02,080 --> 00:44:04,320
Right. "This is how you do it,
just get on with it."
802
00:44:05,800 --> 00:44:09,800
Isn't it? It sounds a little bit
like that, doesn't it?
803
00:44:09,800 --> 00:44:13,720
Yes, I don't know what that is
in Latin, but...
804
00:44:13,720 --> 00:44:19,240
I think what the room as a whole is
saying is, "That for us as a dynasty
805
00:44:19,240 --> 00:44:21,880
"to uphold our power,
we must breed."
806
00:44:24,760 --> 00:44:27,360
And something really neat,
look at this.
807
00:44:27,360 --> 00:44:29,040
This is thanks to the French,
actually,
808
00:44:29,040 --> 00:44:31,200
who've had this as their
embassy for so long,
809
00:44:31,200 --> 00:44:32,680
they cleaned this room,
810
00:44:32,680 --> 00:44:34,240
and look what they found.
811
00:44:34,240 --> 00:44:37,080
Carracci had actually left
some of his sketches.
812
00:44:37,080 --> 00:44:39,280
So when he was making the ceiling,
813
00:44:39,280 --> 00:44:41,760
he was actually doing these
little sketches.
814
00:44:41,760 --> 00:44:44,760
There's actually quite
a sad postscript
815
00:44:44,760 --> 00:44:47,880
to the story of this
amazing masterpiece.
816
00:44:47,880 --> 00:44:49,840
They cardinal, for
whatever reason...
817
00:44:51,120 --> 00:44:52,920
..was a really mean guy,
818
00:44:52,920 --> 00:44:55,920
so when Carracci finished and
finally asked for his payment...
819
00:44:57,600 --> 00:45:00,840
..the cardinal got his accountant
to do all the sums,
820
00:45:00,840 --> 00:45:04,600
and he said, "Well, "you've been
living in the Palace for 11 years,
821
00:45:04,600 --> 00:45:07,920
"so we're going to charge you
for the board and lodging.
822
00:45:07,920 --> 00:45:11,080
"So, we're going to pay you £100,000
for doing the picture,
823
00:45:11,080 --> 00:45:14,520
"but we're going to deduct £99,500
824
00:45:14,520 --> 00:45:17,120
"because you've been staying
in the Palace." No way.
825
00:45:17,120 --> 00:45:22,040
Really. They paid him 500 scudi
for 11 years' work.
826
00:45:22,040 --> 00:45:26,320
Carracci was so upset, he just falls
into this terrible depression,
827
00:45:26,320 --> 00:45:28,840
and then that's the end of him.
828
00:45:28,840 --> 00:45:31,240
He dies, basically,
of a broken heart...
829
00:45:31,240 --> 00:45:35,440
..for not being paid. Maybe you
should have been his agent, Giorgio.
830
00:45:35,440 --> 00:45:37,400
I could have definitely
been his chef.
831
00:45:38,760 --> 00:45:40,960
The paintings would have been
even better!
832
00:45:44,600 --> 00:45:47,560
Eventually, you could say,
justice was served.
833
00:45:47,560 --> 00:45:50,160
The family extinguished in 1731
834
00:45:50,160 --> 00:45:52,760
when the last duke, Antonio Farnese,
835
00:45:52,760 --> 00:45:55,600
died without direct heirs.
836
00:45:55,600 --> 00:45:59,280
The Palace has been the French
embassy for the last 81 years,
837
00:45:59,280 --> 00:46:02,400
keeping Carracci's masterpiece
a bit of a secret.
838
00:46:02,400 --> 00:46:05,040
But now the doors are open
once a week,
839
00:46:05,040 --> 00:46:08,080
and he is gradually being
rediscovered.
840
00:46:08,080 --> 00:46:12,440
We really have to have some lunch
now, so after the power of love,
841
00:46:12,440 --> 00:46:15,880
I want to remind Andrew of
the power of pasta.
842
00:46:15,880 --> 00:46:18,600
This is one of the classics.
843
00:46:18,600 --> 00:46:21,240
You're going to learn how to
make a carbonara.
844
00:46:21,240 --> 00:46:22,640
A real carbonara, Andrew.
845
00:46:23,640 --> 00:46:25,160
We are heading to Roscioli,
846
00:46:25,160 --> 00:46:27,960
a small restaurant that's been
in the same family
847
00:46:27,960 --> 00:46:29,360
for four generations.
848
00:46:30,760 --> 00:46:33,800
Nabil, the cook, is waiting for us.
849
00:46:33,800 --> 00:46:35,840
This is Nabil. Salve, Nabil.
850
00:46:35,840 --> 00:46:39,000
Nabil cooks the best carbonara
in the world,
851
00:46:39,000 --> 00:46:40,520
I'm telling you.
852
00:46:40,520 --> 00:46:43,840
So, what makes the Roman
carbonara different
853
00:46:43,840 --> 00:46:47,320
from the one that we might eat
in a restaurant in London?
854
00:46:48,680 --> 00:46:50,400
That.
855
00:46:50,400 --> 00:46:53,600
GIORGIO AND NABIL DISCUSS
INGREDIENTS IN ITALIAN
856
00:46:53,600 --> 00:46:55,640
You don't use any belly,
857
00:46:55,640 --> 00:46:57,200
you use the cheek,
858
00:46:57,200 --> 00:46:58,960
the end of the cheek and the neck.
859
00:46:58,960 --> 00:47:01,720
And when you give a recipe with
bacon, you make a big mistake,
860
00:47:01,720 --> 00:47:03,360
because the consistency of this
861
00:47:03,360 --> 00:47:05,600
when it's cooked is
a completely different one
862
00:47:05,600 --> 00:47:06,840
than the bacon would be.
863
00:47:06,840 --> 00:47:10,600
So, rule number one, never cook
a carbonara with bacon.
864
00:47:10,600 --> 00:47:12,880
I think a lot of people would be
quite surprised by that.
865
00:47:12,880 --> 00:47:15,720
Rule number one.
No bacon, no pancetta.
866
00:47:15,720 --> 00:47:18,040
The spaghetti are the main
ingredient, obviously.
867
00:47:18,040 --> 00:47:21,080
They've been dried, you know,
like that.
868
00:47:21,080 --> 00:47:22,920
So they are just going to cross.
869
00:47:22,920 --> 00:47:24,680
But touch the spaghetti.
870
00:47:24,680 --> 00:47:26,920
They're rough. Can you feel
the roughness of that?
871
00:47:26,920 --> 00:47:28,480
Oh, yeah, yeah.
872
00:47:28,480 --> 00:47:30,160
Trafilatura al bronzo.
873
00:47:30,160 --> 00:47:33,640
That means the sauce, which
is kind of, like the eggs,
874
00:47:33,640 --> 00:47:37,040
is cooked and kind of a bit creamy,
it will stick to it.
875
00:47:39,960 --> 00:47:41,680
A really hot pan.
876
00:47:41,680 --> 00:47:45,000
No oil, nothing.
877
00:47:45,000 --> 00:47:46,480
Just the guanciale in it.
878
00:47:46,480 --> 00:47:51,800
You see, it is screaming already.
Yeah.
879
00:47:51,800 --> 00:47:55,400
OK, very crispy on the outside and
really tender inside,
880
00:47:55,400 --> 00:47:58,920
and when you bite into that,
you have an explosion,
881
00:47:58,920 --> 00:48:01,160
an explosion of flavour
in your mouth.
882
00:48:03,880 --> 00:48:05,240
Alora.
883
00:48:05,240 --> 00:48:09,480
Turning the spaghetti, very
important, don't let them lie down.
884
00:48:09,480 --> 00:48:12,880
Yes. He is going to prepare
the eggs now.
885
00:48:12,880 --> 00:48:14,360
OK, the base.
886
00:48:19,080 --> 00:48:21,920
One egg yolk, and then a little bit
of egg white,
887
00:48:21,920 --> 00:48:25,120
because it becomes more foamy
if he does that.
888
00:48:25,120 --> 00:48:26,440
Beautiful eggs as well.
889
00:48:28,440 --> 00:48:30,920
Parmesan and Pecorino
mixed together.
890
00:48:32,040 --> 00:48:34,320
Two nice pinch, pepper.
891
00:48:35,560 --> 00:48:37,040
They love pepper in Rome.
892
00:48:37,040 --> 00:48:39,120
Very important.
Toasted Sarawak pepper.
893
00:48:39,120 --> 00:48:40,160
That is so important.
894
00:48:41,680 --> 00:48:43,080
That is the base.
895
00:48:44,280 --> 00:48:47,160
OK? So no garlic, no bacon?
896
00:48:47,160 --> 00:48:49,160
No! Are you crazy?
897
00:48:49,160 --> 00:48:50,920
Don't start to do the American way.
898
00:48:50,920 --> 00:48:52,960
Do not think about putting
too many things in it.
899
00:48:52,960 --> 00:48:57,040
It is very essential, it is
very clean, it is very neat.
900
00:48:58,840 --> 00:49:00,560
He judges the pasta
just with the eye?
901
00:49:00,560 --> 00:49:01,760
Just by looking at it.
902
00:49:01,760 --> 00:49:03,200
He just looks at the pasta,
903
00:49:03,200 --> 00:49:05,440
he doesn't need a timer or anything
like that.
904
00:49:06,880 --> 00:49:08,280
Look what he's doing now.
905
00:49:08,280 --> 00:49:09,880
OK.
906
00:49:09,880 --> 00:49:13,040
A little bit of the guanciale in.
907
00:49:15,000 --> 00:49:16,760
A little bit of the fat.
908
00:49:16,760 --> 00:49:18,240
Yeah.
909
00:49:18,240 --> 00:49:19,600
A little bit of that.
910
00:49:23,160 --> 00:49:25,960
Water and the fat that is going to
make it creamy.
911
00:49:25,960 --> 00:49:28,200
Rule three. No cream!
912
00:49:28,200 --> 00:49:32,840
No cream. And as the spaghetti goes
in, a little bit wet, you see?
913
00:49:32,840 --> 00:49:35,080
He left them a little bit wet.
914
00:49:35,080 --> 00:49:36,200
Yeah.
915
00:49:38,360 --> 00:49:39,840
This is vital, you see?
916
00:49:39,840 --> 00:49:42,600
The cooking water,
which already got salt.
917
00:49:42,600 --> 00:49:44,720
Do you notice we have not
seasoned anything?
918
00:49:44,720 --> 00:49:46,640
Look, look what he's doing.
919
00:49:46,640 --> 00:49:49,520
So he knows now
by touching the edge,
920
00:49:49,520 --> 00:49:52,760
he knows now the eggs is creamy
and is cooked.
921
00:49:55,680 --> 00:50:00,960
Beautiful. A bit of cheese around
and a little bit of pepper on top.
922
00:50:00,960 --> 00:50:03,120
Wow. Wow. That looks...
923
00:50:06,040 --> 00:50:08,000
Carbonara di Roscioli. Grazie.
924
00:50:15,400 --> 00:50:19,040
Wow, that looks...
925
00:50:25,680 --> 00:50:27,280
I am not leaving this here.
926
00:50:27,280 --> 00:50:29,200
He is not going to let me have any.
927
00:50:29,200 --> 00:50:32,880
You must try to convey to everybody
the flavour here,
928
00:50:32,880 --> 00:50:34,840
that really hint of pepper,
929
00:50:34,840 --> 00:50:37,800
the cheese and the creaminess
of the eggs,
930
00:50:37,800 --> 00:50:42,000
almost like a fluid mayonnaise or
a Bearnaise or a Hollandaise...
931
00:50:42,000 --> 00:50:44,360
That's what you are trying to do.
932
00:50:44,360 --> 00:50:47,320
And then this absolute explosion of
933
00:50:47,320 --> 00:50:49,800
almost like a farmyard taste,
934
00:50:49,800 --> 00:50:52,800
that explosion of the guanciale.
935
00:50:52,800 --> 00:50:53,880
Unbelievable.
936
00:50:53,880 --> 00:50:55,440
Buonissimo.
937
00:50:55,440 --> 00:50:58,360
Grazie. Grazie.
938
00:50:59,600 --> 00:51:02,280
This was a masterclass on carbonara.
939
00:51:02,280 --> 00:51:04,200
It was just!
940
00:51:04,200 --> 00:51:05,840
Thank you.
941
00:51:15,640 --> 00:51:16,840
You know, Giorgio,
942
00:51:16,840 --> 00:51:18,880
if you give me one more
plate of pasta,
943
00:51:18,880 --> 00:51:21,120
we are going to have to buy
a bigger motorbike.
944
00:51:28,240 --> 00:51:30,720
We are going to finish our journey
in modern Rome,
945
00:51:30,720 --> 00:51:32,480
the Rome of the 20th century.
946
00:51:35,120 --> 00:51:38,160
The most famous Italian dictator
in living memory
947
00:51:38,160 --> 00:51:39,600
was Benito Mussolini...
948
00:51:41,240 --> 00:51:44,480
..a man whose granite jaw
and megaphone rhetoric
949
00:51:44,480 --> 00:51:47,240
was only matched by
his severe architecture.
950
00:51:49,480 --> 00:51:52,240
You can still see his buildings
all over Rome,
951
00:51:52,240 --> 00:51:54,840
buildings that shouted
at the Italian people,
952
00:51:54,840 --> 00:51:56,520
telling them to work harder,
953
00:51:56,520 --> 00:51:57,840
to be on time,
954
00:51:57,840 --> 00:52:00,920
to leave the past behind
and go to war.
955
00:52:05,600 --> 00:52:09,720
But in this great city of the
people, Mussolini had his opponents,
956
00:52:09,720 --> 00:52:11,880
even if their voices weren't
always heard.
957
00:52:13,400 --> 00:52:15,760
For proof of that,
I am taking Giorgio to
958
00:52:15,760 --> 00:52:17,720
the Gallery of Modern Art where
959
00:52:17,720 --> 00:52:21,720
they have some of my favourite works
of art from the dark, fascist years.
960
00:52:35,000 --> 00:52:38,520
Here, we can still see
another side of Rome,
961
00:52:38,520 --> 00:52:43,240
the one that never submitted
to fascism and Mussolini.
962
00:52:47,960 --> 00:52:49,880
Look at this figure -
963
00:52:49,880 --> 00:52:54,080
Attilio Torresini's sculpture
called Riposo, At Rest,
964
00:52:54,080 --> 00:52:57,720
but she looks almost as if she might
be eavesdropping on us.
965
00:52:57,720 --> 00:52:59,680
She looks so...
966
00:52:59,680 --> 00:53:03,560
..beautiful and so unsexualised,
but beautiful.
967
00:53:04,880 --> 00:53:07,240
And something slightly sad
about her, I think.
968
00:53:07,240 --> 00:53:09,480
I think there's
an air of melancholy.
969
00:53:09,480 --> 00:53:11,200
You think it is melancholic?
970
00:53:11,200 --> 00:53:12,600
Maybe I am reading that in.
971
00:53:12,600 --> 00:53:16,160
I mean, I know that the sculpture
was made in 1939.
972
00:53:16,160 --> 00:53:17,920
So I just have this feeling that
973
00:53:17,920 --> 00:53:21,320
maybe there's the intimations
of war, there is some sense of...
974
00:53:21,320 --> 00:53:23,240
That is a beautiful Italian girl.
975
00:53:23,240 --> 00:53:25,040
..trouble ahead.
976
00:53:25,040 --> 00:53:27,000
Well, if we're talking melancholy,
977
00:53:27,000 --> 00:53:29,440
vieni con me cos one of
978
00:53:29,440 --> 00:53:33,520
the masterpieces of Italian
melancholy is in the next room.
979
00:53:39,480 --> 00:53:41,840
This is what has been arranged
for us,
980
00:53:41,840 --> 00:53:47,320
a private screening of the
masterpiece of Massimo Campigli
981
00:53:47,320 --> 00:53:49,040
and it's just a wonderful...
982
00:53:49,040 --> 00:53:51,240
So we can sit down? We can sit down.
983
00:53:51,240 --> 00:53:53,160
The film has started already.
984
00:53:53,160 --> 00:53:56,920
It is called The Fishermen's Wives.
985
00:53:56,920 --> 00:53:58,360
It is an oil painting,
986
00:53:58,360 --> 00:54:00,160
but it is a bit like a fresco.
987
00:54:00,160 --> 00:54:01,800
The forms are very simple,
988
00:54:01,800 --> 00:54:04,800
they are very solemn,
they are very monumental.
989
00:54:04,800 --> 00:54:07,960
There is something of the solemnity
of a religious painting.
990
00:54:07,960 --> 00:54:10,240
These women are waiting.
991
00:54:10,240 --> 00:54:12,000
You see, there they are on the left,
992
00:54:12,000 --> 00:54:14,000
they are just holding each other.
993
00:54:17,320 --> 00:54:19,920
The picture was painted in 1935,
994
00:54:19,920 --> 00:54:22,920
so, again, fascism was
at its height.
995
00:54:22,920 --> 00:54:26,800
What could be less fascist
than this?
996
00:54:28,760 --> 00:54:33,880
Beautiful picture. So the sorrow of
the person who loses their husband,
997
00:54:33,880 --> 00:54:38,200
it is almost like saying,
"Don't allow your kids to go to war.
998
00:54:38,200 --> 00:54:39,600
"They never come back."
999
00:54:39,600 --> 00:54:41,400
I think this is why this
is a painting
1000
00:54:41,400 --> 00:54:44,920
that once you start looking at it,
it does catch in your throat.
1001
00:54:44,920 --> 00:54:48,600
And I think, I mean, are those
the colours of Italy in the middle?
1002
00:54:48,600 --> 00:54:51,040
Are those the colours of...?
Well, there is a bit of green,
1003
00:54:51,040 --> 00:54:53,600
there is some red,
there is some white.
1004
00:54:53,600 --> 00:54:56,880
He enlisted, in the First World War
in 1916,
1005
00:54:56,880 --> 00:54:59,760
but then during the war
and immediately after the war,
1006
00:54:59,760 --> 00:55:02,080
he was so horrified by all of that
1007
00:55:02,080 --> 00:55:04,560
he said, "I am now forever
going to be a pacifist."
1008
00:55:04,560 --> 00:55:07,520
But I think it is important
to look at these artists
1009
00:55:07,520 --> 00:55:09,520
because, as so often in history,
1010
00:55:09,520 --> 00:55:11,800
the people who make the most noise,
1011
00:55:11,800 --> 00:55:15,000
and the future is with Marinetti as
their spokesman banging his drum,
1012
00:55:15,000 --> 00:55:17,240
and Mussolini with his megaphone,
1013
00:55:17,240 --> 00:55:19,200
everybody knows about them,
1014
00:55:19,200 --> 00:55:21,480
but nobody knows about
these artists.
1015
00:55:21,480 --> 00:55:23,000
It is a much quieter voice,
1016
00:55:23,000 --> 00:55:24,880
but it is the voice of conscience.
1017
00:55:24,880 --> 00:55:26,720
I think it is a truthful voice.
1018
00:55:26,720 --> 00:55:28,280
You know, it makes me think,
1019
00:55:28,280 --> 00:55:30,920
what could have been if there was
more people like him?
1020
00:55:30,920 --> 00:55:33,760
It would have never happened,
that Second World War,
1021
00:55:33,760 --> 00:55:36,480
they would have never did
what they did to each other.
1022
00:55:36,480 --> 00:55:37,760
It was just terrible.
1023
00:55:37,760 --> 00:55:39,800
And these guys were
absolutely right.
1024
00:55:43,880 --> 00:55:45,160
Maybe in the end,
1025
00:55:45,160 --> 00:55:46,600
that is what artists are for.
1026
00:55:46,600 --> 00:55:50,560
To make... To see what we don't see.
1027
00:55:50,560 --> 00:55:51,760
Si.
1028
00:55:59,840 --> 00:56:01,800
We are at the end of our journey
1029
00:56:01,800 --> 00:56:04,600
through a city that is
defined by its people.
1030
00:56:04,600 --> 00:56:08,360
So where better to finish
than with a work of public art?
1031
00:56:08,360 --> 00:56:11,040
Proclaiming the eternal
might of Rome
1032
00:56:11,040 --> 00:56:14,200
on the wall of a modern building.
1033
00:56:14,200 --> 00:56:17,760
Look what they have put on the side
of the apartment block,
1034
00:56:17,760 --> 00:56:23,240
this huge, fantastic, I think,
mural of a wolf, the symbol of Rome.
1035
00:56:23,240 --> 00:56:25,440
It is unbelievable.
1036
00:56:25,440 --> 00:56:27,240
It is so real, isn't it?
1037
00:56:27,240 --> 00:56:29,480
You can almost hear it snarling.
1038
00:56:29,480 --> 00:56:33,600
I love the hairs and I love it
when the evening sun catches it,
1039
00:56:33,600 --> 00:56:38,520
the wolf is there and this ordinary
building suddenly becomes, wow!
1040
00:56:38,520 --> 00:56:44,080
What things did you like the best of
the things that we saw on this trip?
1041
00:56:44,080 --> 00:56:45,520
The Caravaggio?
1042
00:56:45,520 --> 00:56:49,000
Well, those ones were
unforgettable, man.
1043
00:56:49,000 --> 00:56:52,840
And that St Paul...
1044
00:56:52,840 --> 00:56:54,440
..and the story of the asses,
1045
00:56:54,440 --> 00:56:58,480
everybody showed their ass to each
other, that was fantastic.
1046
00:56:58,480 --> 00:57:01,680
Another popular thing that I really
liked about was the Garbatella.
1047
00:57:01,680 --> 00:57:03,840
Oh! That was so beautiful.
1048
00:57:03,840 --> 00:57:10,280
I remember also, the crunch of
the guanciale in the carbonara,
1049
00:57:10,280 --> 00:57:12,200
the perfect carbonara.
1050
00:57:12,200 --> 00:57:14,640
If you were going to feed
that wolf anything,
1051
00:57:14,640 --> 00:57:17,800
you would give him a really big
piece of that guanciale.
1052
00:57:19,120 --> 00:57:21,240
This is the wolf of the people,
1053
00:57:21,240 --> 00:57:24,800
aggressive and opinionated
1054
00:57:24,800 --> 00:57:27,560
and Roman to the core.
1055
00:57:27,560 --> 00:57:29,120
I like that kind of Rome,
1056
00:57:29,120 --> 00:57:31,840
I like Rome that stays alive
through the people.
1057
00:57:31,840 --> 00:57:33,880
And, you know, the Pope
comes and change,
1058
00:57:33,880 --> 00:57:36,760
and the President comes and change,
the King comes and change,
1059
00:57:36,760 --> 00:57:39,120
but the people of Rome,
are still the people of Rome.
1060
00:57:40,520 --> 00:57:42,520
They are the one who rules.
1061
00:57:42,520 --> 00:57:44,440
They really are.
You remember that one?
1062
00:57:44,440 --> 00:57:46,120
SPQR.
1063
00:57:46,120 --> 00:57:49,960
Senatus Populusque Romanus.
1064
00:57:52,120 --> 00:57:53,760
I think it is dinner time.
1065
00:57:53,760 --> 00:57:56,480
And you know, in Rome, dinner
is always quite good, isn't it?
1066
00:57:56,480 --> 00:57:57,840
Not bad. Not bad.
1067
00:58:00,720 --> 00:58:04,640
Next time, we uncover
more of the hidden Rome.
1068
00:58:04,640 --> 00:58:07,400
If you look in the middle,
staring out at us,
1069
00:58:07,400 --> 00:58:09,960
a painting of the first century AD,
1070
00:58:09,960 --> 00:58:11,920
and there are not many of those.
1071
00:58:11,920 --> 00:58:14,200
So this is a kidney sandwich.
1072
00:58:14,200 --> 00:58:17,440
We try centuries-old traditions.
1073
00:58:17,440 --> 00:58:21,200
Oh, mamma mia. We tasted Roman-ity.
1074
00:58:22,960 --> 00:58:26,920
And we pay a visit to one of
Rome's greatest art collections.
1075
00:58:26,920 --> 00:58:30,600
Not a bad room to have a party in.
1076
00:59:03,800 --> 00:59:06,960
Hi, I'm Andrew Graham-Dixon
and I'm an art historian.
1077
00:59:08,040 --> 00:59:10,480
These ancient roads are
slightly bumpy.
1078
00:59:10,480 --> 00:59:12,560
Calma, calma.
1079
00:59:12,560 --> 00:59:15,440
And I'm Giorgio Locatelli,
and I'm a cook.
1080
00:59:16,520 --> 00:59:20,920
We've been all over Italy revealing
gastronomic and artistic treasures.
1081
00:59:22,400 --> 00:59:25,920
But now we've come to its
beating heart - Rome.
1082
00:59:29,480 --> 00:59:34,400
It's a 2,000-year-old metropolis
where past and present collide.
1083
00:59:34,400 --> 00:59:37,200
It's as unique for an art lover...
1084
00:59:37,200 --> 00:59:39,040
Staring out at us.
1085
00:59:39,040 --> 00:59:43,360
A painting of the first century AD,
and there are not many of those.
1086
00:59:43,360 --> 00:59:45,680
As it is for a food lover...
1087
00:59:45,680 --> 00:59:49,000
Cuisine that has its backbone
on necessity,
1088
00:59:49,000 --> 00:59:51,200
that's the cuisine that survives!
1089
00:59:51,200 --> 00:59:55,680
We will taste traditional recipes
beloved by the Romans.
1090
00:59:55,680 --> 00:59:57,720
Oh, mamma mia!
1091
00:59:57,720 --> 00:59:59,560
How good is that?
1092
00:59:59,560 --> 01:00:03,520
And we'll plunge our forks into the
cultures that have shaped the city.
1093
01:00:03,520 --> 01:00:09,640
The whole world is cowering in awe
of this symbol of papal power.
1094
01:00:09,640 --> 01:00:11,000
HORN TOOTS
1095
01:00:11,000 --> 01:00:15,440
We'll explore Rome's greatest works
of art and architecture.
1096
01:00:15,440 --> 01:00:18,080
Not a bad room to have a party in.
1097
01:00:18,080 --> 01:00:19,520
Full of light...
1098
01:00:21,520 --> 01:00:24,400
..but also, sometimes, darkness.
1099
01:00:24,400 --> 01:00:25,720
Unbelievable.
1100
01:00:25,720 --> 01:00:28,640
I actually can hear him screaming.
1101
01:00:42,560 --> 01:00:44,040
HORN TOOTS
1102
01:00:46,200 --> 01:00:48,720
Sorry, scusa!
1103
01:00:53,240 --> 01:00:55,360
HORN BLARES
Calma, calma.
1104
01:00:56,920 --> 01:00:59,480
GIORGIO CHUCKLES
1105
01:00:59,480 --> 01:01:02,600
Rome is like a giant time machine,
1106
01:01:02,600 --> 01:01:07,240
where treasures from over 2,000
years of history have been preserved
1107
01:01:07,240 --> 01:01:09,600
in the many layers of the city.
1108
01:01:09,600 --> 01:01:11,520
Ah, look! Look at this!
1109
01:01:11,520 --> 01:01:13,440
Look at this, what I got for you,
Andrew.
1110
01:01:14,520 --> 01:01:19,000
Wow! Never fail to be amazed
by that. Never fails.
1111
01:01:20,680 --> 01:01:24,120
Every great work of art in Rome,
every great recipe,
1112
01:01:24,120 --> 01:01:27,040
has deep roots in the past.
1113
01:01:27,040 --> 01:01:30,040
That's why, to appreciate
the richness of this city,
1114
01:01:30,040 --> 01:01:32,760
you have to dig beneath its surface,
1115
01:01:32,760 --> 01:01:35,480
to play the part of the
archaeologist.
1116
01:01:35,480 --> 01:01:38,320
All these Roman walls are enormous
on the left, aren't they?
1117
01:01:38,320 --> 01:01:39,600
Unbelievable, no?
1118
01:01:40,760 --> 01:01:44,000
And there isn't a better place
to start our journey through
1119
01:01:44,000 --> 01:01:46,120
the many layers of Rome's history
than here.
1120
01:01:47,440 --> 01:01:50,400
Just a couple of hundred yards
from the Colosseum.
1121
01:01:51,920 --> 01:01:53,120
OK, Andrew.
1122
01:01:54,360 --> 01:01:55,800
So, here we are.
1123
01:01:56,800 --> 01:01:59,320
I love this place.
The Church of San Clemente.
1124
01:02:00,920 --> 01:02:05,560
Here in Rome, we really are
surrounded by history,
1125
01:02:05,560 --> 01:02:07,200
2,000 years of it.
1126
01:02:07,200 --> 01:02:09,000
It's become a cliche to say that,
1127
01:02:09,000 --> 01:02:12,400
but what I really love about
the city is the different textures
1128
01:02:12,400 --> 01:02:13,920
of history that you get here.
1129
01:02:13,920 --> 01:02:17,400
And that's why I think this is
a great first stop, San Clemente.
1130
01:02:17,400 --> 01:02:21,000
It's a Christian church erected in
the Middle Ages on
1131
01:02:21,000 --> 01:02:23,800
the ruins of Roman pagan antiquity.
1132
01:02:23,800 --> 01:02:25,640
It's like a vertical time machine.
1133
01:02:25,640 --> 01:02:27,880
You can travel down, down, down,
down, down,
1134
01:02:27,880 --> 01:02:31,760
and right at the bottom there's this
fantastic unexpected human story,
1135
01:02:31,760 --> 01:02:33,960
but I'm not going to tell you
what it is.
1136
01:02:33,960 --> 01:02:35,720
Let's go and have a look, then.
Andiamo.
1137
01:02:40,680 --> 01:02:41,880
Wow.
1138
01:02:41,880 --> 01:02:45,640
This is just one of the
most beautiful churches in Rome.
1139
01:02:45,640 --> 01:02:51,440
Look at this beautiful apse mosaic
of Christ on the cross
1140
01:02:51,440 --> 01:02:53,200
representing the tree of life.
1141
01:02:53,200 --> 01:02:55,360
Beneath, you have Mary and John.
1142
01:02:55,360 --> 01:02:57,400
Look at the delicacy of his
loincloth,
1143
01:02:57,400 --> 01:03:00,920
that gold structure in mosaic.
1144
01:03:00,920 --> 01:03:04,600
The leaf looks like they are
artichoke leaves. They maybe are.
1145
01:03:04,600 --> 01:03:06,240
That could be a Roman touch.
1146
01:03:09,240 --> 01:03:12,640
Incredibly beautiful.
So that, I may say, is probably
1147
01:03:12,640 --> 01:03:14,920
50 or 60 years' work.
1148
01:03:14,920 --> 01:03:16,760
This is a very important church,
1149
01:03:16,760 --> 01:03:20,000
because interred here were the
remains of Pope Clement.
1150
01:03:20,000 --> 01:03:23,360
Yeah. I think he's the third Pope
after Peter. Yes.
1151
01:03:23,360 --> 01:03:27,160
So it's filled with
Christian significance.
1152
01:03:27,160 --> 01:03:30,400
But it's also, once you get your
eye in and you look around,
1153
01:03:30,400 --> 01:03:33,680
it's a spectacular demonstration
of the way in which buildings in Rome
1154
01:03:33,680 --> 01:03:35,520
have evolved over centuries
of history.
1155
01:03:35,520 --> 01:03:40,400
So, it's such a mishmash. You've got
these ancient Roman columns.
1156
01:03:40,400 --> 01:03:42,040
They don't match each other,
1157
01:03:42,040 --> 01:03:45,840
they obviously just used what they
could find to make that basilica.
1158
01:03:45,840 --> 01:03:48,680
Of course, they're all different!
They're all different.
1159
01:03:48,680 --> 01:03:52,040
And then all of this rectangle
of stone,
1160
01:03:52,040 --> 01:03:54,760
this amazing marble choir gallery,
1161
01:03:54,760 --> 01:03:58,400
was actually made in 536.
1162
01:03:58,400 --> 01:04:00,760
Wow... Sixth century.
1163
01:04:00,760 --> 01:04:03,640
Like, 600 years before the church.
1164
01:04:03,640 --> 01:04:05,360
Exactly.
1165
01:04:05,360 --> 01:04:09,440
Over there you've got something that
takes us back to the early
1166
01:04:09,440 --> 01:04:12,800
15th century, some early
Renaissance frescos by Masolino.
1167
01:04:12,800 --> 01:04:16,520
Over there you've got a beautiful
Renaissance tomb memorial
1168
01:04:16,520 --> 01:04:19,000
to one of the Popes. OK.
1169
01:04:19,000 --> 01:04:24,240
And then, above, you've got this
extraordinary Baroque ceiling,
1170
01:04:24,240 --> 01:04:27,120
you know, from
the 17th-18th century.
1171
01:04:27,120 --> 01:04:29,720
So, you've got all these different
levels of history
1172
01:04:29,720 --> 01:04:32,360
just in this one building.
Yes, yeah.
1173
01:04:32,360 --> 01:04:35,280
But I'm going to have to take you
actually downstairs
1174
01:04:35,280 --> 01:04:38,680
because we can explore what lies
beneath here. Beneath.
1175
01:04:38,680 --> 01:04:42,920
We are going down into the
distant past!
1176
01:04:44,080 --> 01:04:47,480
All of the Rome we see today
is built on top of the other
1177
01:04:47,480 --> 01:04:49,320
much older Romes.
1178
01:04:49,320 --> 01:04:51,040
Wow, it's incredible!
1179
01:04:52,120 --> 01:04:56,800
In 1857, the prior of San Clemente,
Friar Joseph Mullooly,
1180
01:04:56,800 --> 01:05:01,040
uncovered the remains of a Christian
church beneath the existing one,
1181
01:05:01,040 --> 01:05:03,800
dating back all the way to the
fourth century.
1182
01:05:04,880 --> 01:05:09,400
Very little survives of the
original church, just a few frescos.
1183
01:05:09,400 --> 01:05:13,880
Frescos depicting New Testament
scenes and the life of San Clemente.
1184
01:05:13,880 --> 01:05:18,040
But there's yet another lower layer
that takes you back to a Rome
1185
01:05:18,040 --> 01:05:21,040
400 years older even than that.
1186
01:05:22,160 --> 01:05:25,160
We're going down into ancient Rome
itself.
1187
01:05:25,160 --> 01:05:27,680
You have to imagine
it's the time of Nero.
1188
01:05:27,680 --> 01:05:29,960
Nero's fiddled, Rome's burned.
1189
01:05:29,960 --> 01:05:33,600
They've rebuilt vast areas of the
city, including all these houses.
1190
01:05:33,600 --> 01:05:36,480
There's a rabbit warren of streets
down here.
1191
01:05:37,680 --> 01:05:41,920
Archaeologists believe all this
dates from roughly 70 AD,
1192
01:05:41,920 --> 01:05:44,080
just after Nero's death.
1193
01:05:44,080 --> 01:05:47,320
And in the basement of this house,
look what we have.
1194
01:05:48,440 --> 01:05:49,840
Look what we have. Wow!
1195
01:05:52,400 --> 01:05:54,440
A subterranean chamber.
1196
01:05:55,960 --> 01:05:58,480
This is the cult of Mithras.
1197
01:05:58,480 --> 01:06:03,680
For a while, Mithraic cult was so
strong and so powerful that it was
1198
01:06:03,680 --> 01:06:05,000
a rival to Christianity.
1199
01:06:05,000 --> 01:06:07,440
It had some of the same features
as Christianity.
1200
01:06:07,440 --> 01:06:10,800
It had ceremonies involving wine
and blood,
1201
01:06:10,800 --> 01:06:15,360
it had a central myth in which
good triumphs over evil.
1202
01:06:15,360 --> 01:06:18,000
A man kills a bull.
1203
01:06:18,000 --> 01:06:20,040
Look at that agonised neck
of the bull.
1204
01:06:21,120 --> 01:06:23,960
Come with me.
This is a part that they've...
1205
01:06:23,960 --> 01:06:26,520
This is never open to the public,
this part,
1206
01:06:26,520 --> 01:06:27,920
but they've let us go in.
1207
01:06:29,400 --> 01:06:33,440
They think that this was a
schoolroom that was also part
1208
01:06:33,440 --> 01:06:35,320
of the Mithraic cult.
1209
01:06:35,320 --> 01:06:39,200
And if you bring your torch over
here, if you look in the middle...
1210
01:06:40,560 --> 01:06:45,200
..they think that that might be the
schoolteacher staring out at us.
1211
01:06:46,680 --> 01:06:51,600
A painting of the first century AD,
and there are not many of those.
1212
01:06:51,600 --> 01:06:54,760
This is, like, what,
2,100 years old?
1213
01:06:54,760 --> 01:06:56,320
If he were still alive, yeah,
1214
01:06:56,320 --> 01:06:59,120
he'd be celebrating his 2,000th
birthday pretty soon.
1215
01:06:59,120 --> 01:07:01,960
How amazing is that?
GIORGIO CHUCKLES
1216
01:07:01,960 --> 01:07:03,440
TRANSLATION:
1217
01:07:06,400 --> 01:07:08,800
See, I always know when you
like something
1218
01:07:08,800 --> 01:07:10,920
cos you start speaking in Italian.
1219
01:07:10,920 --> 01:07:14,280
I love it when a work of art puts
you face to face with someone
1220
01:07:14,280 --> 01:07:16,320
from another world.
1221
01:07:16,320 --> 01:07:18,920
And they only just found it. Wow!
1222
01:07:20,560 --> 01:07:22,800
I am completely...
1223
01:07:22,800 --> 01:07:27,800
Thank you, Andrew, this is such
an incredible discovery, this place.
1224
01:07:27,800 --> 01:07:28,920
Isn't it?
1225
01:07:30,640 --> 01:07:32,280
I'm really glad you liked it.
1226
01:07:42,280 --> 01:07:46,360
OK, Andrew, I'm going to take you
all along the Lungotevere!
1227
01:07:48,720 --> 01:07:50,840
See, now we're doing the
Ponte Inglese.
1228
01:07:50,840 --> 01:07:53,800
They call it the Ponte Inglese
because...
1229
01:07:53,800 --> 01:07:56,440
It's the only street in Rome where
you drive on the left.
1230
01:07:56,440 --> 01:07:58,000
That's right.
1231
01:07:58,000 --> 01:08:01,880
I want to show Andrew a different
type of archaeology.
1232
01:08:01,880 --> 01:08:04,040
The archaeology of food.
1233
01:08:04,040 --> 01:08:07,080
We are riding to the neighbourhood
of Testaccio -
1234
01:08:07,080 --> 01:08:10,320
only 12 minutes away by scooter from
San Clemente.
1235
01:08:12,040 --> 01:08:14,800
It's an area synonymous with food.
1236
01:08:14,800 --> 01:08:19,040
In ancient times, the district was
home to the imperial port,
1237
01:08:19,040 --> 01:08:22,800
where the bulk of the Roman food
supply was brought into the city.
1238
01:08:24,240 --> 01:08:25,840
It's a bit rough around the edges.
1239
01:08:27,160 --> 01:08:28,360
Where are you going to park?
1240
01:08:30,440 --> 01:08:35,520
In 1888, Testaccio was where the
city authorities decided to build
1241
01:08:35,520 --> 01:08:38,360
Europe's largest municipal abattoir,
1242
01:08:38,360 --> 01:08:42,240
which would go on to shape Rome's
culinary style.
1243
01:08:43,760 --> 01:08:45,800
So, where are we?
1244
01:08:45,800 --> 01:08:47,200
It's a slaughterhouse.
1245
01:08:47,200 --> 01:08:49,760
It's an enormous slaughterhouse.
1246
01:08:49,760 --> 01:08:53,400
It's a beautiful slaughterhouse.
You can see there's all these pens.
1247
01:08:53,400 --> 01:08:57,040
The animals would be brought in from
the countryside, then, you know,
1248
01:08:57,040 --> 01:08:59,560
when it was the time they will
be slaughtered
1249
01:08:59,560 --> 01:09:03,440
and then taken in to feed
the population.
1250
01:09:03,440 --> 01:09:07,120
Between 1870 and 1901,
1251
01:09:07,120 --> 01:09:10,680
Rome's population doubled from
a quarter of a million
1252
01:09:10,680 --> 01:09:12,640
to half a million.
1253
01:09:12,640 --> 01:09:17,040
With so many new mouths to feed,
they needed meat.
1254
01:09:17,040 --> 01:09:18,760
And more of it than ever.
1255
01:09:20,440 --> 01:09:22,760
But this is, this is amazing!
Look at this.
1256
01:09:22,760 --> 01:09:24,680
But this is like a city of death.
1257
01:09:24,680 --> 01:09:26,880
It's even still got the signs. Yeah.
1258
01:09:26,880 --> 01:09:29,160
They didn't only kill cows,
they killed everything.
1259
01:09:29,160 --> 01:09:30,840
You know, the chickens, everything.
1260
01:09:30,840 --> 01:09:34,360
Any kind of animal
was slaughtered round here.
1261
01:09:34,360 --> 01:09:38,360
But look at the architecture of it,
it's like a temple.
1262
01:09:38,360 --> 01:09:40,600
I love this marriage of styles.
1263
01:09:40,600 --> 01:09:45,280
A classical pediment on a 19th
century industrial slaughterhouse
1264
01:09:45,280 --> 01:09:47,000
made of bricks and iron.
1265
01:09:47,000 --> 01:09:50,280
I just can't believe it, we're in
the middle of Rome and this hasn't
1266
01:09:50,280 --> 01:09:53,760
been turned into apartment blocks
or... So, what happens is...
1267
01:09:53,760 --> 01:09:58,800
..yuppie living. The animal would be
killed, the animal would be hanged,
1268
01:09:58,800 --> 01:10:00,560
and then they could move around.
1269
01:10:00,560 --> 01:10:02,200
Incredible.
1270
01:10:02,200 --> 01:10:05,200
In that space, I have to imagine,
how many people?
1271
01:10:05,200 --> 01:10:09,080
It would be, like, 60-80 people
all dirty of blood.
1272
01:10:09,080 --> 01:10:13,200
Here was kind of like a pulsating
sort of part of the town,
1273
01:10:13,200 --> 01:10:15,000
because, you know, you know,
1274
01:10:15,000 --> 01:10:18,520
you can only have a really lively
town if you feed them and you have
1275
01:10:18,520 --> 01:10:21,120
them healthy and they can work,
and so-and-so.
1276
01:10:21,120 --> 01:10:27,040
So this was part of kind of, even if
it was about death, it's about life.
1277
01:10:27,040 --> 01:10:29,880
It's amazing, this place.
The energy in that room.
1278
01:10:29,880 --> 01:10:31,680
I mean, Charles Dickens would've
1279
01:10:31,680 --> 01:10:34,440
written a whole novel about
this place.
1280
01:10:34,440 --> 01:10:38,240
It's like Rome delivers this piece
of history.
1281
01:10:38,240 --> 01:10:41,560
It's not like the history of
politics or a history of, like,
1282
01:10:41,560 --> 01:10:43,560
with a name attached to it
or a movement.
1283
01:10:43,560 --> 01:10:46,600
No, it's just part of actual
real history.
1284
01:10:48,640 --> 01:10:50,520
So, Giorgio, how did this
1285
01:10:50,520 --> 01:10:54,320
extraordinary place change
the food of Rome? OK.
1286
01:10:54,320 --> 01:10:57,680
So you got to think about the new
and extremely rich people
1287
01:10:57,680 --> 01:11:00,560
and powerful people that ran this
beautiful house,
1288
01:11:00,560 --> 01:11:03,600
and they have, like, hundreds of
people who serve and work in it.
1289
01:11:03,600 --> 01:11:06,080
So they would send the cooks
down to the market.
1290
01:11:06,080 --> 01:11:08,920
The cooks would come down and buy
a quarter of the animal.
1291
01:11:08,920 --> 01:11:11,600
So they walk away with the
front quarter or the back quarter.
1292
01:11:11,600 --> 01:11:14,680
What was left in the place was
all the other bits.
1293
01:11:14,680 --> 01:11:17,600
What they call the quinto quarto.
What we call the offal in English.
1294
01:11:17,600 --> 01:11:20,800
Like the liver, the kidneys,
the heart, and the feet and...
1295
01:11:20,800 --> 01:11:23,040
Yeah, the lips...
1296
01:11:23,040 --> 01:11:28,160
Really, the most, you know, horrible
bits, you know, of the animal.
1297
01:11:28,160 --> 01:11:30,040
And some of the people didn't
get paid.
1298
01:11:30,040 --> 01:11:34,000
You didn't get paid money, you got
paid with those bits of animal.
1299
01:11:34,000 --> 01:11:37,240
So these guys are coming home with
a bucket full of liver. Yeah.
1300
01:11:37,240 --> 01:11:38,560
Or a bucket full of tripe.
1301
01:11:38,560 --> 01:11:40,160
And they give it to the wife,
1302
01:11:40,160 --> 01:11:42,720
and the wife will
just cook it and sell it.
1303
01:11:42,720 --> 01:11:45,440
And so that's how they will make
their money.
1304
01:11:45,440 --> 01:11:49,600
Ah. So, this leads to
a new kind of street food.
1305
01:11:49,600 --> 01:11:54,280
This great idea of the street market
with the people who then consume
1306
01:11:54,280 --> 01:11:58,240
the food, it was like hundreds
of years ago it was done in Rome.
1307
01:12:01,480 --> 01:12:04,640
The slaughterhouse closed down
in 1975.
1308
01:12:04,640 --> 01:12:09,760
But across the road at Testaccio
Market its legacy lives on.
1309
01:12:11,280 --> 01:12:13,160
From the age of 14,
1310
01:12:13,160 --> 01:12:16,520
Signor Sergio Esposito worked
at the abattoir.
1311
01:12:16,520 --> 01:12:20,720
And for the last 40 years
he's been cooking offal
1312
01:12:20,720 --> 01:12:24,440
using traditional recipes passed
down by his grandmother.
1313
01:12:26,040 --> 01:12:28,240
Buongiorno, Sergio.
1314
01:12:28,240 --> 01:12:30,400
Buongiorno. Come va? Bene.
1315
01:12:30,400 --> 01:12:32,400
Mi amico Andrew.
1316
01:12:32,400 --> 01:12:33,800
ANDREW SPEAKS ITALIAN
1317
01:12:33,800 --> 01:12:35,640
I'm Andrew, ciao.
1318
01:12:35,640 --> 01:12:37,040
Look what he's doing.
1319
01:12:37,040 --> 01:12:39,680
Look, he's cutting your
favourite thing.
1320
01:12:39,680 --> 01:12:43,400
La coratella. Oh, so this is the
heart and the lungs. The heart...
1321
01:12:43,400 --> 01:12:45,680
The lungs, look at that,
look at that.
1322
01:12:45,680 --> 01:12:48,240
Look at that beauty of the lamb.
1323
01:12:48,240 --> 01:12:50,280
You see why they call it the
fifth quarter,
1324
01:12:50,280 --> 01:12:53,560
when you look at it, but when you
taste it... Yeah!
1325
01:12:53,560 --> 01:12:56,000
TRANSLATION:
1326
01:13:06,360 --> 01:13:09,640
So, when he was little, he used to
work where they killed the animals.
1327
01:13:09,640 --> 01:13:11,320
TRANSLATION:
1328
01:13:25,120 --> 01:13:26,800
That's exactly what you were saying.
1329
01:13:26,800 --> 01:13:29,400
So, his grandfather was working
in the slaughterhouse.
1330
01:13:29,400 --> 01:13:32,440
And got paid a little bit of money
and a little bit of meat.
1331
01:13:32,440 --> 01:13:35,360
And quite a lot of liver. And liver!
1332
01:13:35,360 --> 01:13:37,800
So, you must taste one thing.
1333
01:13:37,800 --> 01:13:40,240
You must taste one thing.
Can I taste three things?
1334
01:13:40,240 --> 01:13:41,840
Now then, don't be greedy.
1335
01:13:43,520 --> 01:13:45,760
So, this is a kidney sandwich.
1336
01:13:45,760 --> 01:13:47,720
What else is in the recipe? Onions.
1337
01:13:48,840 --> 01:13:50,520
TRANSLATION:
1338
01:13:52,280 --> 01:13:54,600
And wine. White wine.
1339
01:13:54,600 --> 01:13:55,920
Wine.
1340
01:13:57,680 --> 01:13:59,760
Oh, mamma mia!
1341
01:13:59,760 --> 01:14:01,080
How good is that?
1342
01:14:06,480 --> 01:14:07,720
GIORGIO SPEAKS ITALIAN
1343
01:14:07,720 --> 01:14:08,920
Can I have the...?
1344
01:14:13,080 --> 01:14:16,320
He's obviously got
great admiration for you.
1345
01:14:16,320 --> 01:14:18,600
The flavour is incredible and
it's so direct.
1346
01:14:18,600 --> 01:14:20,200
There is three ingredients.
1347
01:14:20,200 --> 01:14:22,880
There's white wine, there's onions
and there is kidney.
1348
01:14:22,880 --> 01:14:24,640
And you can taste all three of that.
1349
01:14:24,640 --> 01:14:28,040
And when you walk away, tomorrow you
will remember what you eat.
1350
01:14:28,040 --> 01:14:29,560
So this is what it's all about.
1351
01:14:29,560 --> 01:14:31,000
I mean, the sweetness,
1352
01:14:31,000 --> 01:14:33,760
the unbelievable flavour that
comes through.
1353
01:14:33,760 --> 01:14:34,880
Do you have tripe?
1354
01:14:39,120 --> 01:14:41,960
It might not be
to everyone's taste,
1355
01:14:41,960 --> 01:14:46,160
but the stomach lining of a cow
cooked with onions and tomato sauce
1356
01:14:46,160 --> 01:14:48,360
is a real delicacy.
1357
01:14:48,360 --> 01:14:49,800
Look at that.
1358
01:14:49,800 --> 01:14:52,520
That's a little bit of pecorino
Romano on top. Look at that.
1359
01:14:52,520 --> 01:14:54,080
That's a sandwich.
1360
01:14:58,560 --> 01:15:00,600
The saltiness jumps out at you.
1361
01:15:00,600 --> 01:15:02,880
And it's got a
little bit of mentucce in that.
1362
01:15:02,880 --> 01:15:05,120
A touch of mint.
1363
01:15:05,120 --> 01:15:07,920
You see, lots of people,
if you even say the word tripe,
1364
01:15:07,920 --> 01:15:10,480
they go, "Ew! How can you eat that?"
1365
01:15:10,480 --> 01:15:13,240
But the truth is, it's
such a beautiful, delicate dish.
1366
01:15:13,240 --> 01:15:16,440
It's so rich, isn't it?
You can taste the richness of that.
1367
01:15:16,440 --> 01:15:20,160
You know, it's almost sticking,
your lips are sticking together.
1368
01:15:20,160 --> 01:15:22,320
Fantastic. La Romanita.
1369
01:15:22,320 --> 01:15:25,480
We tasted "Romanity,"
that's what he calls it.
1370
01:15:25,480 --> 01:15:27,920
It's a Romeness,
Romeness sandwiches.
1371
01:15:27,920 --> 01:15:30,640
Sergio, grazie. Grazie.
1372
01:15:33,520 --> 01:15:35,160
Grazie. Grazie. Arrivederci.
1373
01:15:35,160 --> 01:15:36,920
Ciao, ciao. Ciao!
1374
01:15:42,600 --> 01:15:43,920
HORN TOOTS
1375
01:15:46,160 --> 01:15:49,800
Romanity comes in many forms.
1376
01:15:49,800 --> 01:15:53,760
And if there is one community
that's left its mark on
1377
01:15:53,760 --> 01:15:56,800
Roman culinary tradition,
it's the Jewish community.
1378
01:16:04,320 --> 01:16:07,680
Their origins in the city can
be traced back to 200 BC,
1379
01:16:07,680 --> 01:16:10,800
when envoys arrived from the
Holy Land hoping to establish
1380
01:16:10,800 --> 01:16:12,680
trading links with ancient Rome.
1381
01:16:15,600 --> 01:16:18,400
Buongiorno. Buongiorno.
1382
01:16:18,400 --> 01:16:22,040
More than 2,000 years later,
the Jewish presence lives on.
1383
01:16:27,800 --> 01:16:29,560
This is called pizza ebraica.
1384
01:16:29,560 --> 01:16:31,440
Grazie. Grazie.
1385
01:16:34,400 --> 01:16:35,920
Are you not going to pay for it?
1386
01:16:38,520 --> 01:16:39,880
It's very special.
1387
01:16:43,640 --> 01:16:46,520
300 years? Si.
1388
01:16:46,520 --> 01:16:49,120
That's... They've been baking in
this corner for 300 years.
1389
01:16:49,120 --> 01:16:50,960
Complement...
Well, it tastes like it.
1390
01:16:52,760 --> 01:16:54,000
Si.
1391
01:17:07,440 --> 01:17:09,960
Really good. Medieval sweet bread.
1392
01:17:09,960 --> 01:17:11,240
Grazie.
1393
01:17:19,640 --> 01:17:21,760
Grazie. Arrivederci.
1394
01:17:24,920 --> 01:17:29,560
But life for the Jewish people
of Rome hasn't always been sweet.
1395
01:17:32,360 --> 01:17:37,800
In 1555, Pope Paul IV ordered the
construction of the Jewish ghetto.
1396
01:17:37,800 --> 01:17:42,360
Its walls confined them to a
squalid area along the River Tiber.
1397
01:17:43,600 --> 01:17:48,240
Severe laws restricted
them to just a few occupations.
1398
01:17:48,240 --> 01:17:51,280
This is a very characteristic street
of the ghetto. Mm.
1399
01:17:51,280 --> 01:17:55,560
Because it's narrow, reflecting
the medieval origins of this area,
1400
01:17:55,560 --> 01:17:57,880
but it's also really tall.
1401
01:17:57,880 --> 01:18:02,880
So, it's very shadowed, it's very
dark, it's a bit dank and damp.
1402
01:18:02,880 --> 01:18:05,680
The reason the buildings
are so tall here is because
1403
01:18:05,680 --> 01:18:09,280
the ghetto couldn't expand outwards,
so they had to build up.
1404
01:18:09,280 --> 01:18:12,600
Which made the sanitation in an area
that was already not great,
1405
01:18:12,600 --> 01:18:15,400
even worse. Yeah.
That's the place they were given.
1406
01:18:15,400 --> 01:18:17,960
Like not a very good piece of land.
1407
01:18:19,080 --> 01:18:22,760
They had all these humiliating
sort of ceremonies and rituals.
1408
01:18:22,760 --> 01:18:26,600
So if you were the Chief Rabbi
in the ghetto,
1409
01:18:26,600 --> 01:18:31,480
every year you had to renegotiate
the Jews' tenancy of the ghetto.
1410
01:18:32,520 --> 01:18:37,400
And when the Caporioni, the head of
the city councillors of Rome agreed,
1411
01:18:37,400 --> 01:18:41,280
it was marked by ceremony on the
Capitoline Hill in that
1412
01:18:41,280 --> 01:18:43,480
beautiful square that
Michelangelo designed.
1413
01:18:43,480 --> 01:18:48,760
The rabbi would say, "Oh, thank you
for giving me and the Jews
1414
01:18:48,760 --> 01:18:50,520
"another year in the ghetto."
1415
01:18:50,520 --> 01:18:54,440
And the ceremony ended when the
rabbi turned round and was
1416
01:18:54,440 --> 01:18:56,880
bent down as part of this
public theatre.
1417
01:18:56,880 --> 01:18:59,520
And the Caporioni kicked him
in the... Man, no!
1418
01:18:59,520 --> 01:19:01,480
No, really, that was the...
1419
01:19:01,480 --> 01:19:03,120
Well, that's unbelievable.
1420
01:19:07,440 --> 01:19:10,520
Access to food was extremely
limited,
1421
01:19:10,520 --> 01:19:15,800
as the Jewish people were restricted
in their employment opportunities.
1422
01:19:15,800 --> 01:19:20,480
One of the few occupations permitted
was selling food on the street,
1423
01:19:20,480 --> 01:19:23,720
which meant they could bring home
the leftovers.
1424
01:19:26,760 --> 01:19:30,000
Despite their limited access
to ingredients,
1425
01:19:30,000 --> 01:19:33,040
they still created
mouthwatering dishes,
1426
01:19:33,040 --> 01:19:36,280
which have stood the test of time
1427
01:19:36,280 --> 01:19:38,800
and I'm going to
cook a couple for Andrew.
1428
01:19:41,360 --> 01:19:43,920
Coffee delivery service!
1429
01:19:43,920 --> 01:19:48,920
Oh! Thank you, Andrew. Good man.
1430
01:19:50,720 --> 01:19:54,560
Mm. Even the takeaway coffee
tastes good in Rome, doesn't it?
1431
01:19:54,560 --> 01:19:57,840
It's not bad. OK, look,
I'm going to cook you some stuff.
1432
01:19:57,840 --> 01:19:59,400
It's called gozzamoddi.
1433
01:19:59,400 --> 01:20:03,160
And they are like these...
Kind of like meatballs.
1434
01:20:03,160 --> 01:20:06,080
Made with chicken?
Made with chicken. Bravo.
1435
01:20:06,080 --> 01:20:08,000
You've carefully kept
the chicken skin.
1436
01:20:08,000 --> 01:20:11,120
Any type of fat
would have been expensive.
1437
01:20:11,120 --> 01:20:16,320
Use the skin. These guys lived
on the scraps of everybody else.
1438
01:20:16,320 --> 01:20:20,520
So, it was a cuisine created
by the necessity, and as usual,
1439
01:20:20,520 --> 01:20:22,320
a cuisine that creates
1440
01:20:22,320 --> 01:20:25,040
and has its backbone,
on necessity -
1441
01:20:25,040 --> 01:20:27,280
that's the cuisine that survives.
1442
01:20:27,280 --> 01:20:29,800
Give me a job.
Something not too difficult.
1443
01:20:29,800 --> 01:20:32,400
OK, I'm going to give you
a couple of carrots to peel.
1444
01:20:32,400 --> 01:20:34,200
We've got the celery.
1445
01:20:35,600 --> 01:20:37,680
First, I'm going to prepare a sauce
1446
01:20:37,680 --> 01:20:41,600
using carrots, celery,
onions and tomato,
1447
01:20:41,600 --> 01:20:43,920
and my secret ingredient.
1448
01:20:43,920 --> 01:20:45,760
So, I have the skin.
1449
01:20:45,760 --> 01:20:48,960
These will give
this really beautiful
1450
01:20:48,960 --> 01:20:50,880
chicken flavour to the sauce.
1451
01:20:53,040 --> 01:20:56,440
A nice little...
Like if it was a spoonful.
1452
01:20:56,440 --> 01:20:59,680
The smell is very good. Smells like
we're cooking, doesn't it?
1453
01:21:01,000 --> 01:21:06,000
One of the typical things
of the Jewish community -
1454
01:21:06,000 --> 01:21:08,320
they didn't write the recipe down.
1455
01:21:08,320 --> 01:21:10,760
The recipes were something
that were passed
1456
01:21:10,760 --> 01:21:12,560
mostly from mother to daughter.
1457
01:21:12,560 --> 01:21:16,840
This is hundreds of years
of refining and refining.
1458
01:21:16,840 --> 01:21:19,760
The experience, the necessity,
1459
01:21:19,760 --> 01:21:21,760
and the availability
of ingredients,
1460
01:21:21,760 --> 01:21:24,000
so these are the three things
then placed together
1461
01:21:24,000 --> 01:21:26,960
to make this recipe incredible.
1462
01:21:26,960 --> 01:21:30,280
You've got to taste the sauce
and tell me if we need more salt.
1463
01:21:30,280 --> 01:21:33,120
Come on. Blow, blow,
blow, blow, blow.
1464
01:21:36,760 --> 01:21:38,560
Salt? A tiny bit more.
1465
01:21:40,640 --> 01:21:43,800
A tiny bit of salt,
and we let it cook.
1466
01:21:43,800 --> 01:21:47,320
And, you know, could you taste
already the chicken in that?
1467
01:21:47,320 --> 01:21:50,480
Yeah. From the fat? Of course.
Definitely. Yeah, really nice.
1468
01:21:50,480 --> 01:21:53,080
Unbelievable. I love that.
1469
01:21:53,080 --> 01:21:56,240
Now it needs to simmer,
and what we're going to do,
1470
01:21:56,240 --> 01:21:58,680
I'm going to make
the meatball mixture.
1471
01:21:58,680 --> 01:22:04,320
I'm going to add salt, pepper,
1472
01:22:04,320 --> 01:22:07,840
a tiny little bit of cinnamon.
1473
01:22:07,840 --> 01:22:10,280
Then, I got a little bit
of the kosher bread,
1474
01:22:10,280 --> 01:22:13,880
which I have already
sort of put in water.
1475
01:22:13,880 --> 01:22:18,320
So, this is going to give me
a really, really nice consistency.
1476
01:22:18,320 --> 01:22:22,160
The egg is to bind it? That's right.
It's going to sort of become
1477
01:22:22,160 --> 01:22:26,280
a beautiful glomerated mass
of flavour. OK.
1478
01:22:27,840 --> 01:22:31,000
And is the idea that the meatball
in the sauce -
1479
01:22:31,000 --> 01:22:33,120
that is the dish,
there's nothing else?
1480
01:22:33,120 --> 01:22:35,960
No, that's it.
There's no rice or potatoes?
1481
01:22:35,960 --> 01:22:38,440
No, they would eat so frugally.
1482
01:22:38,440 --> 01:22:40,600
No, there is nothing
coming with that.
1483
01:22:40,600 --> 01:22:43,760
Six of them.
OK, I'm going to place them in.
1484
01:22:47,200 --> 01:22:49,880
And now we're going to have
to go and get the artichoke
1485
01:22:49,880 --> 01:22:53,960
because you can't come to Rome,
in the Jewish quarter,
1486
01:22:53,960 --> 01:22:55,720
and not having artichoke.
1487
01:22:55,720 --> 01:22:57,760
But, hang on, they're not in season.
1488
01:22:57,760 --> 01:23:00,240
If you know people,
you can get artichoke.
1489
01:23:00,240 --> 01:23:03,320
So, we're going
to cut the stems off.
1490
01:23:03,320 --> 01:23:06,320
Roman artichokes
are exceptionally tender.
1491
01:23:08,160 --> 01:23:11,200
Everything, from the leaves
to the stem and heart,
1492
01:23:11,200 --> 01:23:13,240
is edible and delicious.
1493
01:23:18,120 --> 01:23:21,040
It's got that silvery green,
doesn't it?
1494
01:23:21,040 --> 01:23:25,080
That's quite a noise. Beautiful,
isn't it? The cauldron is bubbling.
1495
01:23:25,080 --> 01:23:29,800
This way of deep-frying artichokes
is known as carciofi alla giudia,
1496
01:23:29,800 --> 01:23:31,800
Jewish-style artichoke,
1497
01:23:31,800 --> 01:23:35,720
and it's now one of the most famous
of all Roman recipes.
1498
01:23:35,720 --> 01:23:41,080
Cos the ghetto's so small,
everybody else would know
1499
01:23:41,080 --> 01:23:43,600
that the mama in this house
is cooking the artichokes
1500
01:23:43,600 --> 01:23:45,960
cos the smell is travelling
down the street.
1501
01:23:47,960 --> 01:23:50,400
The idea is to open it up.
1502
01:23:50,400 --> 01:23:52,560
No mistaking that
you're eating a flower.
1503
01:23:52,560 --> 01:23:54,680
So, they're actually cooked?
1504
01:23:54,680 --> 01:23:57,800
You're just finishing
the texture? Yeah.
1505
01:23:57,800 --> 01:23:59,920
You're going
to sort of flash-fry them?
1506
01:24:02,280 --> 01:24:06,800
Look at that. It makes me think
of Van Gogh's sunflowers!
1507
01:24:06,800 --> 01:24:09,080
THEY LAUGH
You've just painted a picture!
1508
01:24:09,080 --> 01:24:12,600
Une artiste! I cannot
be more happy than that.
1509
01:24:17,640 --> 01:24:19,800
I think it's perfect.
1510
01:24:22,800 --> 01:24:24,720
Well, this is so lovely. Mm.
1511
01:24:24,720 --> 01:24:27,760
I like the contrast
in the two textures.
1512
01:24:27,760 --> 01:24:31,640
So, the heart is all soft,
almost like an avocado.
1513
01:24:31,640 --> 01:24:33,480
Mm. And the petals are...
1514
01:24:33,480 --> 01:24:35,840
Nice and crispy.
Yeah, they're like crisps.
1515
01:24:35,840 --> 01:24:37,480
Taking my hat off
1516
01:24:37,480 --> 01:24:41,080
to the Jewish tradition
of cooking artichoke like that.
1517
01:24:41,080 --> 01:24:42,400
I think it's stunning.
1518
01:24:42,400 --> 01:24:44,080
Mm-mm-mm!
1519
01:24:46,840 --> 01:24:49,880
Oh, such a smell! Mm!
1520
01:24:49,880 --> 01:24:53,240
Really chicken, but also with
this rich tomato, as well.
1521
01:24:53,240 --> 01:24:55,400
Let's taste it.
1522
01:24:55,400 --> 01:24:57,680
See? Mm!
1523
01:24:57,680 --> 01:25:01,080
Amazing, yeah? That is amazing!
GIORGIO CHUCKLES
1524
01:25:01,080 --> 01:25:03,120
The experience in the mouth
1525
01:25:03,120 --> 01:25:08,080
is that it's such a refined dish,
it's such a delicate flavour.
1526
01:25:08,080 --> 01:25:11,680
So light. We're touching this
small history, the human history.
1527
01:25:11,680 --> 01:25:13,680
On the one hand,
you've got the artichoke,
1528
01:25:13,680 --> 01:25:15,320
which is made by people
who know that,
1529
01:25:15,320 --> 01:25:18,040
at any point,
they might have to run away.
1530
01:25:18,040 --> 01:25:20,160
So, they're doing something
that they can keep,
1531
01:25:20,160 --> 01:25:22,960
they can eat in a week. You can
literally put it in your pocket.
1532
01:25:22,960 --> 01:25:25,200
Yeah. The other hand,
with the meatballs,
1533
01:25:25,200 --> 01:25:27,320
they're making food that,
simultaneously,
1534
01:25:27,320 --> 01:25:30,880
is completely of this place - Rome -
with these wonderful ingredients,
1535
01:25:30,880 --> 01:25:33,000
but also they just have
this little memory
1536
01:25:33,000 --> 01:25:35,960
of the travels of the Jews in
the form of the cinnamon... Mm.
1537
01:25:35,960 --> 01:25:39,080
..which is not something I associate
at all with Italian food.
1538
01:25:39,080 --> 01:25:41,720
Yeah, I wouldn't think any Italian
would put any cinnamon.
1539
01:25:41,720 --> 01:25:43,840
I mean, I don't know
where cinnamon comes from,
1540
01:25:43,840 --> 01:25:47,200
but, to me, it's a little taste of,
you know, the Middle East.
1541
01:25:47,200 --> 01:25:50,240
And the little girl can be told
by her mum, "You see the cinnamon?
1542
01:25:50,240 --> 01:25:51,880
"That's because we've been there."
1543
01:25:53,320 --> 01:25:57,360
It's lovely. Thank you, Giorgio.
That's absolutely delicious.
1544
01:25:57,360 --> 01:26:00,680
I never had something
where the appearance is so,
1545
01:26:00,680 --> 01:26:03,960
as it were, ordinary,
and the taste is so sublime.
1546
01:26:23,160 --> 01:26:26,160
Grazie. Oh, Andrew!
Look at that. That's...
1547
01:26:28,240 --> 01:26:32,720
..30% and 50% schiuma.
1548
01:26:32,720 --> 01:26:35,160
Schiuma. La schiuma.
There's no milk, just cream?
1549
01:26:35,160 --> 01:26:37,280
No, this is the cream of the coffee.
1550
01:26:38,640 --> 01:26:41,600
What I like about Rome is that,
in most other cities,
1551
01:26:41,600 --> 01:26:45,200
if you want to experience the past,
you have to go into a museum.
1552
01:26:45,200 --> 01:26:48,600
You have to go inside, to a museum.
Right. Here in Rome - no, no.
1553
01:26:48,600 --> 01:26:51,640
If you want to tell me about
the past, and the slaughterhouses,
1554
01:26:51,640 --> 01:26:54,640
and what it was like one date,
you just take me over there,
1555
01:26:54,640 --> 01:26:57,560
and it's all still there.
Old places - that can be the museum.
1556
01:26:57,560 --> 01:27:00,720
Yes, you're right. But it's not a
museum of history with a capital H.
1557
01:27:00,720 --> 01:27:04,440
It's a museum of history
with a small H for humanity.
1558
01:27:04,440 --> 01:27:06,440
For humanity.
It's the history of food,
1559
01:27:06,440 --> 01:27:09,080
or it might be the history
of what the Jews once did here,
1560
01:27:09,080 --> 01:27:10,680
how they once lived.
1561
01:27:10,680 --> 01:27:13,320
That's what I like.
Everywhere you turn,
1562
01:27:13,320 --> 01:27:15,480
there's another story. Yes.
1563
01:27:15,480 --> 01:27:19,360
So, today, we're going to go and see
something from high, high culture.
1564
01:27:19,360 --> 01:27:21,880
OK. We're going to go
to one of the great palaces.
1565
01:27:21,880 --> 01:27:24,920
My favourite thing in there
is actually not,
1566
01:27:24,920 --> 01:27:26,720
like, a famous, great masterpiece.
1567
01:27:26,720 --> 01:27:30,040
It's something quite strange
and unusual, and it's food-related.
1568
01:27:30,040 --> 01:27:32,160
Grazie. Grazie. Buona giornata.
1569
01:27:39,520 --> 01:27:41,520
This would be a nice street
to live in,
1570
01:27:41,520 --> 01:27:44,640
with all these beautiful views
across the Tiber.
1571
01:27:47,520 --> 01:27:49,440
HORN HONKS
1572
01:27:51,200 --> 01:27:53,000
Here we are.
1573
01:27:53,000 --> 01:27:55,200
We're heading to
the Palazzo Colonna,
1574
01:27:55,200 --> 01:27:59,880
one of the oldest and largest
private palaces in all of Rome.
1575
01:27:59,880 --> 01:28:02,440
Nice little abode.
HE CHUCKLES
1576
01:28:02,440 --> 01:28:04,680
Yes, humble - not quite.
1577
01:28:06,360 --> 01:28:09,720
The Palazzo Colonna spans
an entire city block.
1578
01:28:09,720 --> 01:28:12,160
Its construction began
in the 14th century,
1579
01:28:12,160 --> 01:28:15,800
and the building work
lasted for 500 years,
1580
01:28:15,800 --> 01:28:19,960
hence the rich mix
of different architectural styles.
1581
01:28:19,960 --> 01:28:23,840
Even the great artist
and architect Gian Lorenzo Bernini
1582
01:28:23,840 --> 01:28:28,600
lent his expertise to the building
and design of the palace.
1583
01:28:28,600 --> 01:28:32,160
So, this is the great symbol
of the Colonna - the column.
1584
01:28:32,160 --> 01:28:34,440
And then, on the side,
this inscription.
1585
01:28:34,440 --> 01:28:38,480
"Semper immota."
Never moved. Never moved.
1586
01:28:38,480 --> 01:28:40,400
Always here.
1587
01:28:40,400 --> 01:28:44,200
And you can't say
that it's a hollow boast,
1588
01:28:44,200 --> 01:28:48,240
cos they are still here. Right.
That's Aslan for us, to meet us.
1589
01:28:48,240 --> 01:28:51,400
Salve. Buongiorno, Aslan.
Buongiorno. Buongiorno. Buongiorno.
1590
01:28:51,400 --> 01:28:53,760
Aslan, a member of
the modern Colonna family,
1591
01:28:53,760 --> 01:28:56,280
is going to show us around.
1592
01:28:56,280 --> 01:28:59,040
Giorgio, after you. Oh, thank you.
1593
01:28:59,040 --> 01:29:02,720
The Colonna family was among
the most powerful and influential
1594
01:29:02,720 --> 01:29:06,120
of the Roman baronial dynasties.
1595
01:29:06,120 --> 01:29:11,240
Within their family tree,
you can find a Pope, a saint,
1596
01:29:11,240 --> 01:29:16,800
a spiritual adviser of Michelangelo,
a general, a patron of Caravaggio,
1597
01:29:16,800 --> 01:29:20,000
and many other
church and political leaders.
1598
01:29:22,280 --> 01:29:24,560
Oh! That's why I took
my glasses off.
1599
01:29:24,560 --> 01:29:27,880
Yes, yes, you need
to take your glasses off.
1600
01:29:27,880 --> 01:29:30,440
What a room!
1601
01:29:30,440 --> 01:29:32,920
Giorgio, hai visto?
1602
01:29:32,920 --> 01:29:35,600
Amazing. Amazing.
1603
01:29:35,600 --> 01:29:37,600
Not a bad room to have a party in.
1604
01:29:39,400 --> 01:29:41,880
The splendid Galleria Colonna
1605
01:29:41,880 --> 01:29:44,240
was commissioned
in the mid-17th century
1606
01:29:44,240 --> 01:29:50,480
by Cardinal Girolamo and his nephew
Lorenzo Onofrio Colonna.
1607
01:29:50,480 --> 01:29:53,240
What a thing, huh? Oh, my God!
1608
01:29:53,240 --> 01:29:57,840
From the outset, the gallery
was conceived as a vast stage set
1609
01:29:57,840 --> 01:30:00,920
to celebrate
the Colonna family's part
1610
01:30:00,920 --> 01:30:05,520
in a famous military victory
of 1571.
1611
01:30:05,520 --> 01:30:08,360
The room is 76 metres long
1612
01:30:08,360 --> 01:30:11,640
and every square inch
is decorated, gilded,
1613
01:30:11,640 --> 01:30:14,200
or adorned with sculpture.
1614
01:30:14,200 --> 01:30:17,000
You can't come in here
and not be amazed.
1615
01:30:19,040 --> 01:30:23,120
On the roof, you've got
the great Battle of Lepanto.
1616
01:30:23,120 --> 01:30:28,560
It's really the one great victory
of the Christians over Islam.
1617
01:30:28,560 --> 01:30:33,040
In command of the victorious fleet
is Marcantonio Colonna,
1618
01:30:33,040 --> 01:30:36,760
and the Colonna family
will never let the world forget
1619
01:30:36,760 --> 01:30:39,560
that they were at the centre
of this triumph.
1620
01:30:39,560 --> 01:30:42,680
Still, in Italy, you know,
if you see a big guy,
1621
01:30:42,680 --> 01:30:44,880
you say, "Che bel pezzo
di Marcantonio."
1622
01:30:44,880 --> 01:30:47,240
It means, "What a great big man."
1623
01:30:47,240 --> 01:30:49,280
So, still hundreds
and hundreds of years,
1624
01:30:49,280 --> 01:30:51,320
these guys set the standard,
1625
01:30:51,320 --> 01:30:56,160
and the Italians still,
you know, aim to Marcantonio.
1626
01:30:56,160 --> 01:30:58,360
I mean, the action there,
you can actually...
1627
01:30:58,360 --> 01:31:01,360
You feel the spray of the sea
coming down towards you.
1628
01:31:01,360 --> 01:31:03,080
You see these people drowning and...
1629
01:31:03,080 --> 01:31:05,120
And all the flags.
..it is unbelievable.
1630
01:31:05,120 --> 01:31:07,680
Beautifully vibrant
and beautiful colour.
1631
01:31:10,200 --> 01:31:12,160
It's a very famous room
even for people
1632
01:31:12,160 --> 01:31:14,680
who are not perhaps interested
in art history,
1633
01:31:14,680 --> 01:31:17,720
because this is where they shot
the final scene of Roman Holiday.
1634
01:31:17,720 --> 01:31:20,040
Roman Holiday was here.
1635
01:31:20,040 --> 01:31:22,080
And up there was Audrey Hepburn
1636
01:31:22,080 --> 01:31:24,200
saying hello
to all the journalists here.
1637
01:31:24,200 --> 01:31:26,720
That's right. And then
there's poor Gregory Peck.
1638
01:31:26,720 --> 01:31:30,040
Was it Gregory Peck? Gregory Peck,
yeah. Yeah, with his broken heart.
1639
01:31:30,040 --> 01:31:33,160
But, I mean, if ever a room
was waiting for the cinema...
1640
01:31:33,160 --> 01:31:34,760
It's this one. ..it's this one.
1641
01:31:36,520 --> 01:31:37,960
Thank you, Aslan. Grazie.
1642
01:31:37,960 --> 01:31:40,440
Grazie. Is it OK if we stay
just a little while longer?
1643
01:31:40,440 --> 01:31:42,080
Of course. There's plenty of space.
1644
01:31:42,080 --> 01:31:43,800
There's quite a lot
of things to look at.
1645
01:31:44,960 --> 01:31:49,880
This palace, every room -
every room - is a cornucopia.
1646
01:31:51,920 --> 01:31:53,280
I love this painting.
1647
01:31:53,280 --> 01:31:56,520
This is such a strange,
weird, wonderful painting.
1648
01:31:56,520 --> 01:32:00,760
It was commissioned by him,
Filippo Colonna,
1649
01:32:00,760 --> 01:32:03,760
after the death of his wife
and the death of his mother.
1650
01:32:03,760 --> 01:32:07,160
And what he wanted was a depiction
of the souls of the blessed
1651
01:32:07,160 --> 01:32:12,640
rising on the last day
when Christ comes back,
1652
01:32:12,640 --> 01:32:14,720
and we are all born again.
1653
01:32:14,720 --> 01:32:17,400
And everyone being born again
is a Colonna.
1654
01:32:17,400 --> 01:32:21,160
Look, there's Marcantonio Colonna.
Marcantonio.
1655
01:32:21,160 --> 01:32:22,680
And when I see him there,
1656
01:32:22,680 --> 01:32:24,920
I see what you mean
when you say he's like a big guy.
1657
01:32:24,920 --> 01:32:26,960
I mean, he looks like a wrestler!
1658
01:32:26,960 --> 01:32:29,520
He's going to wrestle his way
into heaven.
1659
01:32:29,520 --> 01:32:32,200
Isn't that something?
By Pietro Da Cortona.
1660
01:32:32,200 --> 01:32:35,720
So, by a famous artist, I've never
seen a painting quite like it.
1661
01:32:37,320 --> 01:32:42,920
Talking of eternity and the soul,
this is the family's chapel. Mm.
1662
01:32:44,600 --> 01:32:47,720
Even in such a rich
art collection as this,
1663
01:32:47,720 --> 01:32:52,160
if you dig a little, there's always
a surprise to unearth.
1664
01:32:52,160 --> 01:32:54,880
Look at this. Oh, my God.
1665
01:32:54,880 --> 01:32:58,920
This has only been discovered
1666
01:32:58,920 --> 01:33:02,840
by the Colonna family themselves
last year.
1667
01:33:02,840 --> 01:33:08,440
There was always
a rather dirty cross on the altar,
1668
01:33:08,440 --> 01:33:11,200
but they only recently realised
that it was actually a box,
1669
01:33:11,200 --> 01:33:13,280
and that, inside... No way! Yeah.
1670
01:33:13,280 --> 01:33:15,640
This was inside the box!
This was inside.
1671
01:33:15,640 --> 01:33:20,680
It's late 15th century,
it's from Florence...
1672
01:33:21,680 --> 01:33:23,880
..but they don't know who it's by.
1673
01:33:23,880 --> 01:33:26,480
Some people have suggested
Antonio da Sangallo.
1674
01:33:26,480 --> 01:33:29,440
Some people have suggested
it could even be by Michelangelo.
1675
01:33:29,440 --> 01:33:31,560
Look at the ribcage,
look at the blood,
1676
01:33:31,560 --> 01:33:34,560
look at the handling
of the drapery and the face.
1677
01:33:35,680 --> 01:33:39,320
Absolutely amazing thing. Mm.
1678
01:33:39,320 --> 01:33:41,440
Can you imagine having that,
you know,
1679
01:33:41,440 --> 01:33:44,280
sort of forgotten in a cupboard?
1680
01:33:44,280 --> 01:33:48,400
That is unbelievable.
1681
01:33:48,400 --> 01:33:49,680
Not bad, eh?
1682
01:33:51,240 --> 01:33:53,720
I've got something that I think
1683
01:33:53,720 --> 01:33:55,920
is definitely going
to be to your taste,
1684
01:33:55,920 --> 01:33:59,200
and I mean taste with a capital T.
1685
01:34:00,800 --> 01:34:03,280
From the sacred to the profane.
1686
01:34:03,280 --> 01:34:05,760
If ever there was a picture
for Giorgio Locatelli,
1687
01:34:05,760 --> 01:34:09,280
surely, it's this one.
It's called...
1688
01:34:09,280 --> 01:34:12,400
BOTH: The Beaneater. Yeah.
You know, I know this picture,
1689
01:34:12,400 --> 01:34:16,160
because that was right in the front
of the cookery books...
1690
01:34:16,160 --> 01:34:18,520
Oh, really?
..I used to have at school. Yes.
1691
01:34:18,520 --> 01:34:22,400
This is beautiful because, look,
these are black-eyed beans.
1692
01:34:22,400 --> 01:34:24,360
You see a little
bit of the juices there.
1693
01:34:24,360 --> 01:34:27,000
Can you see it falling down? Yes!
1694
01:34:27,000 --> 01:34:30,560
And that's like...
Look at that. Like a cipollotto.
1695
01:34:30,560 --> 01:34:33,120
Brown bread, cos, obviously,
at that time, you know,
1696
01:34:33,120 --> 01:34:35,120
they didn't make white flour yet.
1697
01:34:35,120 --> 01:34:37,960
Typical Roman way
to cut it on the top like that.
1698
01:34:37,960 --> 01:34:40,360
And then you can see that
you can break it up in pieces.
1699
01:34:40,360 --> 01:34:42,040
So, he's holding one piece.
1700
01:34:42,040 --> 01:34:46,320
You know this is painted
by Annibale Carracci in the 1590s?
1701
01:34:46,320 --> 01:34:48,040
This was his version of Arte Povera.
1702
01:34:48,040 --> 01:34:50,680
This was his way
of painting the life
1703
01:34:50,680 --> 01:34:52,720
of poor, ordinary, working people.
1704
01:34:52,720 --> 01:34:55,400
He pioneered this,
along with Caravaggio.
1705
01:34:55,400 --> 01:34:58,280
It's almost as if Carracci
has changed his style
1706
01:34:58,280 --> 01:34:59,840
to adapt to the subject matter.
1707
01:34:59,840 --> 01:35:03,120
He's painting something
that is quite a poor subject
1708
01:35:03,120 --> 01:35:04,840
and he's doing it very quickly.
1709
01:35:04,840 --> 01:35:06,680
He's doing low colours,
1710
01:35:06,680 --> 01:35:09,920
not bright flashes of red
or ultramarine blue.
1711
01:35:09,920 --> 01:35:12,920
It's brilliant that they've
put it underneath this picture,
1712
01:35:12,920 --> 01:35:15,160
which is all about
Mary as the Queen of Heaven,
1713
01:35:15,160 --> 01:35:17,480
you know,
wearing her wonderful draperies.
1714
01:35:17,480 --> 01:35:22,560
And then, beneath,
it's the people's king of the beans!
1715
01:35:22,560 --> 01:35:24,840
And it's lovely, as well,
I think that, you know,
1716
01:35:24,840 --> 01:35:28,160
in the Palazzo Colonna,
which is so much a place
1717
01:35:28,160 --> 01:35:31,840
about this huge span of history,
1718
01:35:31,840 --> 01:35:34,880
in the end, what's the painting
we've finished in front of?
1719
01:35:34,880 --> 01:35:37,280
A peasant eating his dinner.
And how Roman is that?
1720
01:35:37,280 --> 01:35:41,120
This is great for me
to have seen this. Really.
1721
01:35:47,960 --> 01:35:50,680
HORN HONKS
It wouldn't be Rome if we didn't hit
1722
01:35:50,680 --> 01:35:53,120
an occasional traffic jam,
would it? Yeah.
1723
01:35:54,560 --> 01:35:57,920
I Vigili del Fuoco -
the fire brigade, Andrew.
1724
01:35:59,120 --> 01:36:01,000
Andiamo.
HORN HONKS
1725
01:36:04,040 --> 01:36:06,120
So, where are we going, Giorgio?
1726
01:36:06,120 --> 01:36:10,280
We're going to see a very good chef.
What's her name?
1727
01:36:10,280 --> 01:36:12,840
Si chiama Cristina Bowerman.
1728
01:36:12,840 --> 01:36:16,600
She's very inspiring,
the way she works with old recipes.
1729
01:36:16,600 --> 01:36:19,560
Her food is really top-notch.
1730
01:36:19,560 --> 01:36:22,040
Maybe she can cook us
some beans, eh?
1731
01:36:22,040 --> 01:36:24,320
Well, that's... Let's hope so.
1732
01:36:27,480 --> 01:36:32,160
Cristina's Michelin-starred
restaurant is called Glass Hostaria.
1733
01:36:32,160 --> 01:36:35,120
It's in the trendy neighbourhood
of Trastevere
1734
01:36:35,120 --> 01:36:37,000
in the centre of the city.
1735
01:36:37,000 --> 01:36:38,960
You come from
these great, wide avenues
1736
01:36:38,960 --> 01:36:42,000
into these little almost like
labyrinths of streets.
1737
01:36:42,000 --> 01:36:46,760
With all these bars and restaurants,
everybody eating and drinking.
1738
01:36:48,440 --> 01:36:50,320
HORN HONKS
This is it?
1739
01:36:50,320 --> 01:36:52,000
I'm going to introduce you.
1740
01:36:54,240 --> 01:36:57,120
Cristina. In this beautiful tavern.
How are you?
1741
01:36:57,120 --> 01:36:59,960
Can we come in? Welcome.
Very well. Yes. Come on over.
1742
01:36:59,960 --> 01:37:04,760
Cristina uses ingredients
from traditional Roman cuisine.
1743
01:37:04,760 --> 01:37:08,960
Today, she's going to cook for us
a unique cheesecake.
1744
01:37:08,960 --> 01:37:13,520
A cheesecake? A cheesecake
with pasta, with beans and mussels.
1745
01:37:13,520 --> 01:37:16,960
Are we talking about almost
a scherzo on the cheesecake?
1746
01:37:16,960 --> 01:37:18,960
Exactly. Cos it's a joke
on the cheesecake.
1747
01:37:18,960 --> 01:37:20,840
That is exactly it.
Cos we're savoury here.
1748
01:37:20,840 --> 01:37:22,240
We're not sweet. Exactly.
1749
01:37:22,240 --> 01:37:24,560
This is actually
the base of the cheesecake,
1750
01:37:24,560 --> 01:37:27,040
but let me show you how I did it.
1751
01:37:27,040 --> 01:37:31,240
She boiled it, and then she put
it into a dryer and dried.
1752
01:37:31,240 --> 01:37:32,880
Can I just get that right?
1753
01:37:32,880 --> 01:37:35,240
The base of the cheesecake -
you cook pasta?
1754
01:37:35,240 --> 01:37:37,000
Exactly. You, then,
when it's cooked...
1755
01:37:37,000 --> 01:37:38,320
Dry them. ..you deep-fry it?
1756
01:37:38,320 --> 01:37:41,080
Yes. Deep-fried it.
Then you dry it in the oven?
1757
01:37:41,080 --> 01:37:42,480
And then you crunch it up?
1758
01:37:42,480 --> 01:37:45,920
So, it's instead of the biscuits?
Exactly.
1759
01:37:45,920 --> 01:37:50,160
How thick do you want it?
I want it, like, this thick.
1760
01:37:51,360 --> 01:37:54,160
OK. And you need to press it.
1761
01:37:55,800 --> 01:37:57,880
So, now...
What's this extraordinary...?
1762
01:37:57,880 --> 01:38:00,920
That's the beans. That's the beans.
This is cannellini beans.
1763
01:38:00,920 --> 01:38:03,760
The cannellini beans
that have been made into a puree.
1764
01:38:03,760 --> 01:38:06,560
This is what that becomes?
Exactly. That's exactly it.
1765
01:38:06,560 --> 01:38:09,360
Beans are really part
of our tradition.
1766
01:38:09,360 --> 01:38:12,600
They used to say the Roman army
would travel on their stomach
1767
01:38:12,600 --> 01:38:16,440
and, you know, what they would carry
would be like cicerchie.
1768
01:38:16,440 --> 01:38:18,360
They will have...
Chickpeas? Yeah, like...
1769
01:38:18,360 --> 01:38:20,120
Cicerchie is like wild chickpeas
1770
01:38:20,120 --> 01:38:23,240
that they used to carry
on their bags with their salt -
1771
01:38:23,240 --> 01:38:25,240
their own salt -
and a little bit of flour.
1772
01:38:25,240 --> 01:38:27,840
So, they would do this,
like, cook the beans,
1773
01:38:27,840 --> 01:38:30,320
add things, and make some...
I don't know. Some bread.
1774
01:38:30,320 --> 01:38:32,280
And they would make up
something like that,
1775
01:38:32,280 --> 01:38:33,960
even as they were advancing.
1776
01:38:33,960 --> 01:38:37,680
So, even this would probably
very much surprise a Roman soldier,
1777
01:38:37,680 --> 01:38:40,320
but he would still,
in some taste memory,
1778
01:38:40,320 --> 01:38:42,160
he would know what it is.
1779
01:38:42,160 --> 01:38:46,120
It's going to look like a dessert!
Exactly.
1780
01:38:46,120 --> 01:38:49,240
And this is my last touch. Smell it.
1781
01:38:50,480 --> 01:38:53,800
Wow! That is... Those are mussels.
1782
01:38:53,800 --> 01:38:56,280
Goodness me.
So, how have you prepared those?
1783
01:38:56,280 --> 01:39:00,440
I cooked them up,
then I dehydrated them,
1784
01:39:00,440 --> 01:39:04,520
and then I powderised them.
Goodness me. I never heard of that.
1785
01:39:04,520 --> 01:39:06,800
Can you buy this or...?
No, you have to make it fresh.
1786
01:39:06,800 --> 01:39:09,360
No, no, no, I made them.
You make it yourself? Yeah. Yeah.
1787
01:39:09,360 --> 01:39:12,840
So, you're going to have
that bean taste, pasta taste,
1788
01:39:12,840 --> 01:39:16,480
and then you're going to be hit
by that sort of flavour of the fish
1789
01:39:16,480 --> 01:39:19,920
because, you know, like, the mussel,
they've got that really fish...
1790
01:39:19,920 --> 01:39:23,600
Rich, fishy flavour.
That is very ingenious.
1791
01:39:23,600 --> 01:39:29,280
So, when did you invent this recipe?
Last month. Last month?!
1792
01:39:29,280 --> 01:39:33,720
So, this is straight off
the wheel of time.
1793
01:39:33,720 --> 01:39:38,360
Mm! Can you taste the mussels?
Yeah. Very strong.
1794
01:39:38,360 --> 01:39:40,200
The mussel comes at the end...
At the end.
1795
01:39:40,200 --> 01:39:41,720
..with the seasoning and...
1796
01:39:41,720 --> 01:39:44,120
And that's the thing
that should stay with you.
1797
01:39:44,120 --> 01:39:46,520
What I love also is this crust.
1798
01:39:46,520 --> 01:39:48,960
I have one little more surprise.
1799
01:39:48,960 --> 01:39:51,920
Could you wait just 20 seconds?
I'm going to go get it. OK.
1800
01:39:51,920 --> 01:39:55,120
We can wait. You can clean up here,
so I can put it right there.
1801
01:39:55,120 --> 01:39:58,640
We can eat a bit more of this
if you want. So...
1802
01:39:58,640 --> 01:40:00,960
Ooh, wow! Cannelloni.
1803
01:40:00,960 --> 01:40:02,960
I want you to taste
it and guess what it is.
1804
01:40:06,840 --> 01:40:11,240
Mm! It's some kind
of beautiful semifreddo.
1805
01:40:11,240 --> 01:40:14,880
Mm-hm. Made of...?
1806
01:40:14,880 --> 01:40:17,800
If you're going to put me
to the test, it's like nougat?
1807
01:40:17,800 --> 01:40:20,440
Almonds? OK,
I'll make it easy for you.
1808
01:40:20,440 --> 01:40:23,120
They are all beans.
That's all beans?!
1809
01:40:23,120 --> 01:40:25,960
This is a meringue
made out of the leftover water
1810
01:40:25,960 --> 01:40:27,600
from cooking the beans.
1811
01:40:27,600 --> 01:40:31,040
That's a bean powder,
and that's a bean mousse.
1812
01:40:31,040 --> 01:40:33,120
You're kidding me! Yes.
You are kidding me.
1813
01:40:33,120 --> 01:40:35,440
The only different thing is
it's an almond outside.
1814
01:40:35,440 --> 01:40:38,440
There is an almond. I knew there was
an almond. Yeah, the green stuff.
1815
01:40:38,440 --> 01:40:41,000
But everything else is a bean?
Everything else is a bean.
1816
01:40:41,000 --> 01:40:44,440
You are kidding me. So, you can make
anything out of a bean, right?
1817
01:40:44,440 --> 01:40:46,600
Not only. You use everything,
even the water.
1818
01:40:46,600 --> 01:40:48,800
No, I don't mean...
I don't mean one.
1819
01:40:48,800 --> 01:40:51,400
I mean YOU can make anything
out of a bean.
1820
01:40:51,400 --> 01:40:53,560
Thank you. Yes. You really can.
1821
01:40:55,000 --> 01:40:58,600
Come on, let's go. Thank you. This
was delicious. That was fantastic.
1822
01:40:58,600 --> 01:41:02,280
It's BEAN great.
SHE CHUCKLES
1823
01:41:11,160 --> 01:41:13,080
But in the 1920s,
1824
01:41:13,080 --> 01:41:16,120
there was a man who wanted
to shake up the Italian way
1825
01:41:16,120 --> 01:41:17,960
of living and thinking.
1826
01:41:17,960 --> 01:41:19,920
Everything, from the food they ate
1827
01:41:19,920 --> 01:41:22,800
to the attitude towards work
and the state.
1828
01:41:24,320 --> 01:41:26,720
Fascist dictator Benito Mussolini
1829
01:41:26,720 --> 01:41:30,320
dreamt of restoring
the glories of the past -
1830
01:41:30,320 --> 01:41:35,760
to turn a nation of spaghetti eaters
into gladiators, even gods.
1831
01:41:37,240 --> 01:41:40,080
In 1922 he came to power,
1832
01:41:40,080 --> 01:41:45,400
determined to transform what was
still a very young and weak country.
1833
01:41:46,800 --> 01:41:49,640
So beautiful, isn't it?
Look at that.
1834
01:41:49,640 --> 01:41:51,960
In Rome, he demolished
old neighbourhoods,
1835
01:41:51,960 --> 01:41:55,000
creating new districts
full of angular buildings
1836
01:41:55,000 --> 01:41:58,320
in a style known
as fascist architecture.
1837
01:41:58,320 --> 01:42:00,520
It's really striking, isn't it?
1838
01:42:01,640 --> 01:42:04,880
We've come to visit one of his most
symbolic architectural projects
1839
01:42:04,880 --> 01:42:06,880
in the northern part of Rome.
1840
01:42:10,360 --> 01:42:14,960
This is the Stadio dei Marmi,
designed by Enrico Del Debbio.
1841
01:42:14,960 --> 01:42:19,680
This is very much Mussolini's vision
for a new Italy -
1842
01:42:19,680 --> 01:42:22,320
strong, tall.
1843
01:42:22,320 --> 01:42:29,040
The statues evoke the ancient
Roman idea of health, physique.
1844
01:42:29,040 --> 01:42:35,000
"If our boys can be trained up
to win the 100 metres, the shot put,
1845
01:42:35,000 --> 01:42:37,880
"the boxing,
then Italy can win a war.
1846
01:42:37,880 --> 01:42:41,040
"Italy can rule Europe."
1847
01:42:41,040 --> 01:42:43,880
The statues are made
of Carrara marble.
1848
01:42:43,880 --> 01:42:46,960
Each one has the name of
a different province of Italy. Yes.
1849
01:42:46,960 --> 01:42:51,000
So, apparently,
each of the provinces was to...
1850
01:42:51,000 --> 01:42:55,240
They agreed to donate
one of the statues.
1851
01:42:55,240 --> 01:42:57,480
They "agreed".
THEY CHUCKLE
1852
01:42:57,480 --> 01:43:01,200
Like they had much choice!
They agreed to donate a statue.
1853
01:43:01,200 --> 01:43:05,400
Oh, I see. So, that's why
Venice is the sailor. Of course.
1854
01:43:05,400 --> 01:43:07,880
Football -
that must be Milan, right?
1855
01:43:07,880 --> 01:43:10,080
THEY LAUGH
1856
01:43:10,080 --> 01:43:12,400
Have you noticed,
they all have the same bottom?
1857
01:43:12,400 --> 01:43:15,000
It's the bottom
of Michelangelo's David.
1858
01:43:15,000 --> 01:43:20,240
Also, they're all in
this kind of Michelangelo pastiche.
1859
01:43:20,240 --> 01:43:24,040
Also, the same style
as Hitler's statues.
1860
01:43:24,040 --> 01:43:28,480
Yeah. Arno Breker. This idea
of the Aryan perfect body.
1861
01:43:28,480 --> 01:43:30,800
There's a bit of eugenics,
I think, about this.
1862
01:43:30,800 --> 01:43:33,560
You know, "If we breed
from the right stock,
1863
01:43:33,560 --> 01:43:37,400
"Italians will all grow
to be 20ft tall."
1864
01:43:37,400 --> 01:43:39,520
The setting is incredible,
1865
01:43:39,520 --> 01:43:43,440
but I can't stop
that little bit of sadness
1866
01:43:43,440 --> 01:43:46,440
to really think
what this really represents -
1867
01:43:46,440 --> 01:43:47,880
this delusional moment,
1868
01:43:47,880 --> 01:43:50,280
this moment that Italy
thought about themselves
1869
01:43:50,280 --> 01:43:54,760
really something that we are not.
1870
01:43:54,760 --> 01:43:56,800
Is there anywhere else
in Europe than...?
1871
01:43:56,800 --> 01:43:59,360
Something like that was there
from a previous regime
1872
01:43:59,360 --> 01:44:03,040
would have been, like, blown away
and broken down. That's very Rome.
1873
01:44:03,040 --> 01:44:05,560
You know, if you want to find
the sculptures created
1874
01:44:05,560 --> 01:44:09,560
to project Hitler's idea of Germany,
you have to go to the storeroom
1875
01:44:09,560 --> 01:44:12,880
of the German Museum of History
in Berlin.
1876
01:44:12,880 --> 01:44:16,800
If you want to see
Stalin's great images of
1877
01:44:16,800 --> 01:44:19,080
the Soviet state as he envisaged it,
1878
01:44:19,080 --> 01:44:22,200
you have to go to the basement
of the New Tretyakov Gallery.
1879
01:44:22,200 --> 01:44:26,440
But here in Rome, because, somehow,
they have this tolerant attitude
1880
01:44:26,440 --> 01:44:30,760
that every part of history,
it's OK to have it remembered.
1881
01:44:30,760 --> 01:44:33,520
I don't think they celebrate it,
but they leave it here,
1882
01:44:33,520 --> 01:44:37,880
maybe almost now for us
as a kind of lesson of a mistake
1883
01:44:37,880 --> 01:44:39,440
that shouldn't be made again.
1884
01:44:39,440 --> 01:44:40,920
Salve.
1885
01:44:48,240 --> 01:44:49,720
Do you know, in this helmet,
1886
01:44:49,720 --> 01:44:51,880
you look a little bit
like Mussolini?
1887
01:44:51,880 --> 01:44:55,120
Andrew, that's not
a very nice thing to say.
1888
01:44:55,120 --> 01:44:59,000
Mussolini's idea of displaying power
through architecture
1889
01:44:59,000 --> 01:45:01,040
was not a new concept.
1890
01:45:03,640 --> 01:45:06,480
It has been part of the Roman DNA
1891
01:45:06,480 --> 01:45:10,360
since the Caesars built monuments
like the Colosseum.
1892
01:45:13,160 --> 01:45:16,040
This architecture of power
reached its peak
1893
01:45:16,040 --> 01:45:18,200
during the age of the Baroque,
1894
01:45:18,200 --> 01:45:21,680
when one man above all others
used stone and sculpture
1895
01:45:21,680 --> 01:45:24,720
to express the glory
of the Christian church
1896
01:45:24,720 --> 01:45:27,600
in a multitude
of breathtaking forms.
1897
01:45:29,120 --> 01:45:32,200
The great 17th-century sculptor,
painter and architect
1898
01:45:32,200 --> 01:45:36,320
Gian Lorenzo Bernini was responsible
for many great works,
1899
01:45:36,320 --> 01:45:40,000
including the colonnade
of St Peter's,
1900
01:45:40,000 --> 01:45:43,640
the beautiful statues which line
the Sant'Angelo Bridge,
1901
01:45:43,640 --> 01:45:48,640
and the masterpiece
which stands in this square.
1902
01:45:49,720 --> 01:45:51,160
This is Piazza Navona.
1903
01:45:51,160 --> 01:45:54,000
This is one of the most beautiful
squares in the world.
1904
01:45:54,000 --> 01:45:57,040
Very unusual shape.
It's an unusual shape
1905
01:45:57,040 --> 01:45:59,680
because this was
1906
01:45:59,680 --> 01:46:03,080
Imperatore Domiziano Stadium
for running.
1907
01:46:03,080 --> 01:46:05,840
So, the people used
to run around here.
1908
01:46:05,840 --> 01:46:07,880
So, we've got the footprint
of a stadium,
1909
01:46:07,880 --> 01:46:11,760
but now it's a Baroque square,
and in the middle,
1910
01:46:11,760 --> 01:46:14,920
the most ambitious,
perhaps the most brilliant
1911
01:46:14,920 --> 01:46:19,520
of Bernini's monuments
to the power of the papal states.
1912
01:46:19,520 --> 01:46:21,560
Look at that.
It's fantastic, isn't it?
1913
01:46:21,560 --> 01:46:24,560
You know, he very nearly didn't get
to design this because
1914
01:46:24,560 --> 01:46:26,960
the Pope who commissioned it,
Innocent X... Right.
1915
01:46:26,960 --> 01:46:29,160
..he didn't like Bernini
1916
01:46:29,160 --> 01:46:31,640
cos Bernini had done a lot of work
for the Pope before.
1917
01:46:31,640 --> 01:46:34,680
Bernini played a clever trick,
cos he had a female friend -
1918
01:46:34,680 --> 01:46:37,480
an aristocratic friend -
who was quite close to the Pope. Mm.
1919
01:46:37,480 --> 01:46:41,120
And she, one day,
took a silver model
1920
01:46:41,120 --> 01:46:43,440
that Bernini had made
of a fountain -
1921
01:46:43,440 --> 01:46:47,480
an imaginary fountain - and took it
into the Pamphili Palace.
1922
01:46:47,480 --> 01:46:50,320
That was the family palace
of the Pope.
1923
01:46:50,320 --> 01:46:52,920
And he saw this silver model,
1924
01:46:52,920 --> 01:46:54,880
and he said,
"Oh, that's my fountain.
1925
01:46:54,880 --> 01:46:57,320
"That's the fountain
I've been dreaming of."
1926
01:46:57,320 --> 01:46:59,920
And she said,
"Yes, but it's by Bernini."
1927
01:46:59,920 --> 01:47:04,400
And he said, "Oh, well,
Bernini's going to have the job.
1928
01:47:04,400 --> 01:47:07,320
"I said no, but I've got to say yes
cos it's so beautiful."
1929
01:47:07,320 --> 01:47:10,520
And this is how
it turned out in marble.
1930
01:47:12,320 --> 01:47:15,000
Is that all Carrara marble?
All Carrara marble
1931
01:47:15,000 --> 01:47:16,880
with an entire Egyptian obelisk
1932
01:47:16,880 --> 01:47:20,120
pillaged from ancient Egypt
by the ancient Romans,
1933
01:47:20,120 --> 01:47:24,040
which was set up
on top of Bernini's fountain.
1934
01:47:24,040 --> 01:47:27,440
So, the idea of the fountain
is that the whole world -
1935
01:47:27,440 --> 01:47:31,360
symbolised by the great rivers
of the four continents -
1936
01:47:31,360 --> 01:47:37,160
the whole world is cowering in awe
of this papal erection,
1937
01:47:37,160 --> 01:47:39,640
this symbol of papal power.
1938
01:47:43,000 --> 01:47:45,280
Bernini is such a Roman.
1939
01:47:45,280 --> 01:47:47,400
You know, he's almost got
Roman marble
1940
01:47:47,400 --> 01:47:49,600
in his veins instead of blood.
1941
01:47:52,440 --> 01:47:56,200
So, he knows very well that the
ancient Roman sculptors
1942
01:47:56,200 --> 01:47:59,720
created these figures
of the river gods.
1943
01:47:59,720 --> 01:48:04,360
But in Bernini, everything is about
movement, motion, drama, theatre.
1944
01:48:10,280 --> 01:48:13,560
If the Roman river gods of the past
have been woken up,
1945
01:48:13,560 --> 01:48:15,800
they've been dynamised
and energised.
1946
01:48:15,800 --> 01:48:17,960
Each one has a different pose.
1947
01:48:17,960 --> 01:48:21,200
This one is the River Plate,
the New World.
1948
01:48:22,400 --> 01:48:25,560
That's the Ganges. That's India.
1949
01:48:25,560 --> 01:48:29,040
Isn't that wonderful -
the palm tree just sort of
1950
01:48:29,040 --> 01:48:32,840
growing up towards
the base of the obelisk?
1951
01:48:32,840 --> 01:48:36,040
I mean, it's amazing,
how it's made of this marble,
1952
01:48:36,040 --> 01:48:37,720
and the travertino.
1953
01:48:37,720 --> 01:48:41,000
And also this idea of the movement
is incredible, isn't it?
1954
01:48:42,880 --> 01:48:45,320
Well, the lion is drinking.
That's what it's doing.
1955
01:48:45,320 --> 01:48:47,440
The lion's come to drink.
1956
01:48:47,440 --> 01:48:50,600
So, this is Africa.
What animal is that?
1957
01:48:50,600 --> 01:48:52,480
Is it a crocodile, an armadillo?
1958
01:48:52,480 --> 01:48:54,880
What is it? That's where
you can see, in the sculpture,
1959
01:48:54,880 --> 01:48:57,120
the limits of his knowledge.
He can do a lion...
1960
01:48:57,120 --> 01:48:59,680
Oh, yeah. ..because they had lions
in Baroque Rome.
1961
01:48:59,680 --> 01:49:02,040
They had... You know,
they knew what they looked like.
1962
01:49:02,040 --> 01:49:06,160
But, yeah, I think
it's meant to be an armadillo,
1963
01:49:06,160 --> 01:49:08,880
but it's almost like a dragon
in a fairy story.
1964
01:49:11,440 --> 01:49:14,320
This fountain is one of
the many works by Bernini
1965
01:49:14,320 --> 01:49:19,160
to have defined his public image
as a great artist,
1966
01:49:19,160 --> 01:49:23,440
someone with the title
"the man that built Baroque Rome".
1967
01:49:23,440 --> 01:49:25,960
But I want to scratch
below the surface
1968
01:49:25,960 --> 01:49:29,920
to see what else
Rome can reveal of him.
1969
01:49:29,920 --> 01:49:34,400
Bernini is all over this town,
but as a man,
1970
01:49:34,400 --> 01:49:37,120
he remains, to most people,
I think, quite mysterious.
1971
01:49:37,120 --> 01:49:40,080
It's as if you can't really touch
his personality.
1972
01:49:41,280 --> 01:49:43,920
In fact, he was
quite a troubled guy.
1973
01:49:43,920 --> 01:49:47,000
He was a very unsuccessful
human being.
1974
01:49:47,000 --> 01:49:48,720
Yeah, you could put it like that.
1975
01:49:48,720 --> 01:49:52,960
He ordered his servant
to disfigure his mistress.
1976
01:49:52,960 --> 01:49:55,000
He had a lot of problems
with his brother.
1977
01:49:55,000 --> 01:49:58,360
So, at the centre of his life,
there's this profound sense of guilt
1978
01:49:58,360 --> 01:50:01,280
and anxiety, but nowhere
do you touch it in his work -
1979
01:50:01,280 --> 01:50:04,200
except one place,
and that's where I want to take you.
1980
01:50:04,200 --> 01:50:06,080
Here - Spanish Embassy.
1981
01:50:06,080 --> 01:50:09,000
There are two sculptures
that give you, if you like,
1982
01:50:09,000 --> 01:50:11,560
his personality,
and we have an appointment.
1983
01:50:11,560 --> 01:50:13,000
OK, let's have a look.
1984
01:50:16,840 --> 01:50:18,640
This rarely-seen sculpture
1985
01:50:18,640 --> 01:50:23,160
was commissioned by the Spanish
Cardinal Montoya in 1619
1986
01:50:23,160 --> 01:50:27,320
when Bernini was only 20 years old.
1987
01:50:27,320 --> 01:50:30,800
I wanted you to see this
cos this is the great Bernini
1988
01:50:30,800 --> 01:50:32,560
that no-one ever sees.
1989
01:50:32,560 --> 01:50:35,600
This is actually a self-portrait.
1990
01:50:35,600 --> 01:50:38,160
This is Bernini's face.
1991
01:50:38,160 --> 01:50:42,400
The vein going down his neck,
like pumping blood into the...
1992
01:50:42,400 --> 01:50:44,080
Unbelievable.
1993
01:50:44,080 --> 01:50:48,680
I mean, his understanding of muscle
and things is incredible.
1994
01:50:48,680 --> 01:50:53,840
The expression of the nose,
the bags under his eyes...
1995
01:50:53,840 --> 01:50:55,960
It's like he's there for real.
1996
01:50:55,960 --> 01:50:58,280
One of Bernini's great gifts
as an artist
1997
01:50:58,280 --> 01:51:03,320
would be the ability to turn marble
into human expression.
1998
01:51:03,320 --> 01:51:07,680
Even Michelangelo doesn't capture
this level of expression.
1999
01:51:07,680 --> 01:51:11,480
I actually can hear him screaming.
2000
01:51:11,480 --> 01:51:15,000
You're right, you can hear.
You can hear the cry of anguish!
2001
01:51:16,480 --> 01:51:18,680
Bernini was a violent man.
2002
01:51:18,680 --> 01:51:22,080
When Bernini's brother
slept with Bernini's mistress,
2003
01:51:22,080 --> 01:51:23,480
he was so enraged
2004
01:51:23,480 --> 01:51:26,200
that he tried to beat his brother
to death with a steel bar.
2005
01:51:26,200 --> 01:51:29,880
His brother only survived by
seeking sanctuary in a local church.
2006
01:51:29,880 --> 01:51:32,360
And Bernini then, very brutally,
2007
01:51:32,360 --> 01:51:36,160
ordered one of his servants to go
and cut the face,
2008
01:51:36,160 --> 01:51:38,280
with a razor, of his mistress -
2009
01:51:38,280 --> 01:51:40,200
literally to disfigure her
2010
01:51:40,200 --> 01:51:43,560
for having injured his face,
his reputation.
2011
01:51:43,560 --> 01:51:46,120
But do you know
what it really represents?
2012
01:51:46,120 --> 01:51:49,320
Someone in torment.
The soul condemned to damnation.
2013
01:51:49,320 --> 01:51:52,240
Dannati. So, there he is, screaming,
2014
01:51:52,240 --> 01:51:55,400
as he first sees
that he's going to experience
2015
01:51:55,400 --> 01:51:59,200
the rest of his existence,
all eternity, in the flames of hell.
2016
01:51:59,200 --> 01:52:01,280
But to fully understand
this work of art,
2017
01:52:01,280 --> 01:52:05,240
we need to look at its twin -
light to its darkness.
2018
01:52:05,240 --> 01:52:09,960
Come on this side, cos on this side,
we've got the blessed soul -
2019
01:52:09,960 --> 01:52:12,080
the soul that goes to heaven.
2020
01:52:14,000 --> 01:52:16,240
Bernini placed
both of the sculptures
2021
01:52:16,240 --> 01:52:18,200
five metres away from the other one,
2022
01:52:18,200 --> 01:52:21,480
and each had to
have a mirror behind it.
2023
01:52:21,480 --> 01:52:23,560
And, you know,
when you look down mirrors,
2024
01:52:23,560 --> 01:52:25,640
you get this perspective
of infinite time
2025
01:52:25,640 --> 01:52:28,760
that these sculptures occupy.
Of course, because you can see...
2026
01:52:28,760 --> 01:52:31,520
So, whether you're damned
or whether you're blessed,
2027
01:52:31,520 --> 01:52:34,360
you're going to be looking
into infinity always.
2028
01:52:35,440 --> 01:52:38,600
I think maybe you're also meant
to think about yourself.
2029
01:52:38,600 --> 01:52:41,400
Where am I going to be
at the end of the day?
2030
01:52:41,400 --> 01:52:46,160
Am I going to be down
in the flames of hell with him,
2031
01:52:46,160 --> 01:52:51,760
or am I going to be the one
with eyes fixed heavenward?
2032
01:53:02,000 --> 01:53:05,360
Bernini has left
an indelible mark on Rome.
2033
01:53:07,320 --> 01:53:10,200
But there is another
less celebrated body of work
2034
01:53:10,200 --> 01:53:13,360
which is dotted all over the city,
2035
01:53:13,360 --> 01:53:16,840
and before we leave,
we want to pay tribute to it.
2036
01:53:18,680 --> 01:53:21,080
You know these little Madonnas
that we keep seeing...
2037
01:53:21,080 --> 01:53:23,800
Yeah. ..here, there, everywhere?
Everywhere.
2038
01:53:23,800 --> 01:53:26,760
Apparently, there are 2,000
of these Madonnas...
2039
01:53:26,760 --> 01:53:31,760
Yeah? ..here in Rome,
and this is one of my favourites.
2040
01:53:31,760 --> 01:53:34,440
The Madonna of the Tunnel
is what I call her.
2041
01:53:34,440 --> 01:53:37,800
I think, here,
they call her Maria di Roma.
2042
01:53:37,800 --> 01:53:39,760
But isn't that
such a wonderful thing?
2043
01:53:39,760 --> 01:53:42,920
A piece of folk art,
probably been repainted...
2044
01:53:44,320 --> 01:53:46,160
..100, 200 times.
2045
01:53:46,160 --> 01:53:50,520
You know, this is a mile away
from Annibale Carracci,
2046
01:53:50,520 --> 01:53:54,200
Caravaggio, Michelangelo,
but I love it all the more for that.
2047
01:53:54,200 --> 01:53:57,520
It's so Roman. As you say,
there's about 2,000 of them around.
2048
01:53:57,520 --> 01:53:59,880
So, that means that
you have one Madonna,
2049
01:53:59,880 --> 01:54:02,480
I've got my Madonna,
and he's got his Madonna.
2050
01:54:02,480 --> 01:54:05,320
Every apartment block has
its own Madonna. That's right.
2051
01:54:05,320 --> 01:54:08,120
You know, there's people,
they put this little statue,
2052
01:54:08,120 --> 01:54:11,280
they put a candle,
they put the flowers.
2053
01:54:11,280 --> 01:54:13,280
They treat it almost like
they might treat
2054
01:54:13,280 --> 01:54:15,760
their mother's
grave in the cemetery.
2055
01:54:15,760 --> 01:54:18,520
I love the fact that
it's just so straightforward.
2056
01:54:18,520 --> 01:54:21,160
Look at these clumsy little...
2057
01:54:21,160 --> 01:54:23,760
They're like Roman babies
in their nappies,
2058
01:54:23,760 --> 01:54:29,920
and they're just happy to be here
holding up the Virgin's tunnel.
2059
01:54:29,920 --> 01:54:31,960
And the ceiling is actually,
you know...
2060
01:54:31,960 --> 01:54:35,000
As folk art goes, that's
kind of pretty brilliant, isn't it?
2061
01:54:35,000 --> 01:54:37,720
It's actually a fresco -
real fresco.
2062
01:54:37,720 --> 01:54:41,280
HE CHUCKLES
And it's just a pedestrian tunnel.
2063
01:54:41,280 --> 01:54:44,400
How more Roman than that can you be?
That is incredible.
2064
01:54:57,280 --> 01:55:03,040
The beauty of this city is immense.
There's no beauty like that.
2065
01:55:10,440 --> 01:55:14,840
After delving through
the many layers of this great city,
2066
01:55:14,840 --> 01:55:18,640
we are ending our journey
at Rome's foundations.
2067
01:55:22,360 --> 01:55:25,880
What a glorious scene.
What beautiful light.
2068
01:55:25,880 --> 01:55:28,920
This is incredible. Amazing!
2069
01:55:28,920 --> 01:55:31,200
That's the Colosseum
down at the end there. Yeah.
2070
01:55:31,200 --> 01:55:32,680
It's the corner.
2071
01:55:32,680 --> 01:55:35,040
Well, that's 2,000 years
of history right there,
2072
01:55:35,040 --> 01:55:37,800
and looking down on it, you know,
we're looking down
2073
01:55:37,800 --> 01:55:42,600
on the central site of
all Roman archaeology - the Forum.
2074
01:55:42,600 --> 01:55:45,640
And in the past, when I've come here
and looked at this view,
2075
01:55:45,640 --> 01:55:50,320
I've always imagined, in my mind,
I always wondered, you know,
2076
01:55:50,320 --> 01:55:53,400
where's Emperor Nero,
if we could go back in time?
2077
01:55:53,400 --> 01:55:56,480
Where are the senators?
Where's Cicero?
2078
01:55:56,480 --> 01:55:59,320
I'm not thinking that now.
No. I'm thinking,
2079
01:55:59,320 --> 01:56:02,600
"Hmm, I wonder where the
artichoke seller would have been?
2080
01:56:02,600 --> 01:56:05,240
"I wonder where the butcher
would have come in?
2081
01:56:05,240 --> 01:56:06,640
"Where's the Jewish cook?"
2082
01:56:06,640 --> 01:56:09,280
"Where is the little Jewish guy
that does the recipe?"
2083
01:56:09,280 --> 01:56:12,320
We did the archaeology of a
different city this time, didn't we?
2084
01:56:12,320 --> 01:56:15,080
A different kind of archaeology.
We did, we did.
2085
01:56:15,080 --> 01:56:19,120
This is super special. Think of all
the places that we haven't visited.
2086
01:56:19,120 --> 01:56:21,960
We haven't actually been
down there in the Forum,
2087
01:56:21,960 --> 01:56:25,600
we haven't visited the Colosseum,
we haven't seen the Sistine Chapel.
2088
01:56:25,600 --> 01:56:28,960
We've done our unpacked thing,
where we, you know,
2089
01:56:28,960 --> 01:56:32,040
we stick to the edges,
we go to the less well-known places.
2090
01:56:32,040 --> 01:56:34,360
But, you know,
do we feel any worse for that?
2091
01:56:34,360 --> 01:56:38,760
Have we missed those other things?
I don't think so.
2092
01:56:40,120 --> 01:56:44,040
In order to understand
this Rome through history,
2093
01:56:44,040 --> 01:56:47,560
you've got to also understand
the life of the normal people,
2094
01:56:47,560 --> 01:56:49,320
not only of the kings
and the emperor.
2095
01:56:49,320 --> 01:56:51,040
Yeah, yeah, I agree. Or the popes.
2096
01:56:51,040 --> 01:56:53,360
I mean, maybe that's
the truest version of history.
2097
01:56:53,360 --> 01:56:55,400
You know, you try to find
the book that is lost
2098
01:56:55,400 --> 01:56:56,800
at the bottom of the library.
2099
01:56:56,800 --> 01:56:58,880
Try to turn the pages
that no-one's read.
171936
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