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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:02,784 --> 00:00:05,373 (water splashing) (airplane whirring) 2 00:00:05,373 --> 00:00:08,790 (uptempo dramatic music) 3 00:00:10,349 --> 00:00:12,903 (seagulls squawking) 4 00:00:12,903 --> 00:00:16,479 (car engine growling) 5 00:00:16,479 --> 00:00:19,479 (graphic whooshing) 6 00:00:27,310 --> 00:00:29,520 (tense dramatic music) (water whooshing) 7 00:00:29,520 --> 00:00:32,190 I'm Christopher Clark, and I'm traveling Europe 8 00:00:32,190 --> 00:00:35,380 to discover the UNESCO World Heritage Sites 9 00:00:35,380 --> 00:00:39,220 that have arisen on this continent over the millennia. 10 00:00:39,220 --> 00:00:41,930 Mighty cities that have influenced the course 11 00:00:41,930 --> 00:00:46,100 of world history, landscapes, religious sites, 12 00:00:46,100 --> 00:00:48,300 groundbreaking inventions, 13 00:00:48,300 --> 00:00:52,387 all this and much more is what defines Europe. 14 00:00:54,391 --> 00:00:59,391 (walking stick clanking) (animals calling) 15 00:01:05,472 --> 00:01:06,305 (tense dramatic music) 16 00:01:06,305 --> 00:01:09,450 In Spain, I'll walk the way of St. James 17 00:01:09,450 --> 00:01:13,290 to Santiago de Compostela, visit Paris in France, 18 00:01:13,290 --> 00:01:14,970 travel to the Rhine Gorge, 19 00:01:14,970 --> 00:01:17,320 and visit organ makers in Germany, 20 00:01:17,320 --> 00:01:19,080 as well as inspecting relics 21 00:01:19,080 --> 00:01:21,940 of the Industrial Revolution in Volklingen, 22 00:01:21,940 --> 00:01:24,873 but my journey begins in Venice. 23 00:01:24,873 --> 00:01:25,930 (waves whooshing) 24 00:01:25,930 --> 00:01:29,790 We've been given special permission to fly over Venice, 25 00:01:29,790 --> 00:01:32,430 and seeing it from a bird's eye view 26 00:01:32,430 --> 00:01:35,500 we're reminded once again why this city is considered 27 00:01:35,500 --> 00:01:38,210 the embodiment of a unique heritage. 28 00:01:38,210 --> 00:01:42,800 Grand squares, palaces and churches perched on canals, 29 00:01:42,800 --> 00:01:44,980 the visual arts and fine handicrafts 30 00:01:44,980 --> 00:01:46,630 flourished here as well. 31 00:01:46,630 --> 00:01:49,970 Without the sea, none of this would have been possible. 32 00:01:49,970 --> 00:01:52,700 Europe is a continent on the move, 33 00:01:52,700 --> 00:01:54,140 and the waters that surround it 34 00:01:54,140 --> 00:01:56,660 have always played a vital role. 35 00:01:56,660 --> 00:01:58,870 {\an8}When Europeans began traveling the seas, 36 00:01:58,870 --> 00:02:01,690 {\an8}whether as explorers or as brutal conquerors, 37 00:02:01,690 --> 00:02:04,810 {\an8}they changed the world, for better or for worse. 38 00:02:04,810 --> 00:02:07,540 But the world changed the Europeans too. 39 00:02:07,540 --> 00:02:10,740 Ideas and knowledge flowed back across the water, 40 00:02:10,740 --> 00:02:14,480 and with them came desirable wares of every kind. 41 00:02:14,480 --> 00:02:16,370 Venice is a fine example. 42 00:02:16,370 --> 00:02:19,200 This is one of the great entrepots of the eastern trade, 43 00:02:19,200 --> 00:02:22,050 and it was here that the riches of the Orient 44 00:02:22,050 --> 00:02:27,050 came to Europe, silk, spices, gold, silver, and jewels, 45 00:02:27,140 --> 00:02:30,270 German, French, and English merchants did business here 46 00:02:30,270 --> 00:02:32,810 spreading the wealth across the continent. 47 00:02:32,810 --> 00:02:35,800 That's how this little city-state of Venice 48 00:02:35,800 --> 00:02:37,290 grew into the (speaking in a foreign language), 49 00:02:38,610 --> 00:02:41,040 the most serene Republic of St. Mark, 50 00:02:41,040 --> 00:02:44,485 and made its mark on the rest of Europe. 51 00:02:44,485 --> 00:02:46,410 (tense dramatic music) 52 00:02:46,410 --> 00:02:49,500 High above the city, on top of the Campanile, 53 00:02:49,500 --> 00:02:51,800 the bell tower of St. Mark's Basilica, 54 00:02:51,800 --> 00:02:54,700 hovers, the golden Archangel Gabriel. 55 00:02:54,700 --> 00:02:58,610 Protection, strength, masculinity, and biblical heroism, 56 00:02:58,610 --> 00:03:01,490 the name, Gabriel, contains all these things, 57 00:03:01,490 --> 00:03:03,590 and Mark may have been a Saint, 58 00:03:03,590 --> 00:03:07,660 but his name also means son of Mars, the god of war. 59 00:03:07,660 --> 00:03:11,580 In Venice, Christian belief, and the aspiration to power 60 00:03:11,580 --> 00:03:14,023 have always been inseparable bedfellows. 61 00:03:16,590 --> 00:03:19,650 The Venetians were major participants in the Crusades, 62 00:03:19,650 --> 00:03:21,080 right from the beginning, 63 00:03:21,080 --> 00:03:23,630 but at some point they became less interested 64 00:03:23,630 --> 00:03:26,400 in liberating Jerusalem from its Arab rulers, 65 00:03:26,400 --> 00:03:29,860 and more focused on expanding their sphere of influence 66 00:03:29,860 --> 00:03:34,160 culminating in their conquest of Constantinople in 1204. 67 00:03:34,160 --> 00:03:37,140 The famous Quadrigas on St. Mark's Basilica 68 00:03:37,140 --> 00:03:39,460 is nothing more than looted art 69 00:03:39,460 --> 00:03:41,900 from the Byzantine capital on the Bosphorus. 70 00:03:41,900 --> 00:03:45,620 Venice now felt as powerful as Byzantium had once been, 71 00:03:45,620 --> 00:03:48,570 and with good reason by the mid-13th century, 72 00:03:48,570 --> 00:03:51,780 it was the most important naval and commercial power 73 00:03:51,780 --> 00:03:53,400 in the world, and incidentally, 74 00:03:53,400 --> 00:03:57,430 this church with its domes and ornate decorations 75 00:03:57,430 --> 00:04:00,440 was constructed according to Byzantine design 76 00:04:00,440 --> 00:04:03,260 in an era when the Gothic style was the fashion 77 00:04:03,260 --> 00:04:05,037 in the rest of Europe. 78 00:04:05,037 --> 00:04:08,500 (tense dramatic music) 79 00:04:08,500 --> 00:04:11,400 In the mysterious darkness of the Basilica, 80 00:04:11,400 --> 00:04:13,483 Western Europe meets the East. 81 00:04:16,150 --> 00:04:18,830 These mosaics with their Christian themes 82 00:04:18,830 --> 00:04:20,883 are the work of six centuries, 83 00:04:22,380 --> 00:04:25,210 and this place was used for more than just masses, 84 00:04:25,210 --> 00:04:26,593 baptisms, and weddings. 85 00:04:27,480 --> 00:04:30,440 The captains of the enormous Venetian fleet came here 86 00:04:30,440 --> 00:04:33,720 under the main dome, which depicts the Ascension of Christ, 87 00:04:33,720 --> 00:04:36,933 to pray for a safe return before they sailed out to sea. 88 00:04:37,920 --> 00:04:40,460 And the doge, the leader of the city 89 00:04:40,460 --> 00:04:42,370 was presented to the people here 90 00:04:42,370 --> 00:04:45,023 in St. Mark's Basilica after his election. 91 00:04:46,320 --> 00:04:48,680 Next door, the doge's palace 92 00:04:48,680 --> 00:04:52,030 with its pink marble facade stands as a testimony 93 00:04:52,030 --> 00:04:54,643 to the power and the glory of the Serenissima. 94 00:04:56,153 --> 00:04:58,770 (tense dramatic music) 95 00:04:58,770 --> 00:05:01,999 This is the exact spot where the Bucentaur, 96 00:05:01,999 --> 00:05:04,650 the doge's magnificent ship was launched, 97 00:05:04,650 --> 00:05:06,850 and no one captured the moment more beautifully 98 00:05:06,850 --> 00:05:09,400 than the Venetian painter, Canaletto. 99 00:05:09,400 --> 00:05:12,130 All the heads of state rowed out to the sea 100 00:05:12,130 --> 00:05:13,530 in a maritime procession, 101 00:05:13,530 --> 00:05:15,580 and the doge called out, (speaking in a foreign language). 102 00:05:21,370 --> 00:05:23,670 We marry you, sea, 103 00:05:23,670 --> 00:05:27,290 as a sign of true and perpetual dominion, 104 00:05:27,290 --> 00:05:28,990 and to seal this marriage, 105 00:05:28,990 --> 00:05:32,370 the doge threw a gold ring into the waves 106 00:05:32,370 --> 00:05:36,757 in the hope that it might bring even more riches to Venice. 107 00:05:36,757 --> 00:05:38,270 (tense dramatic music) 108 00:05:38,270 --> 00:05:40,080 And come those riches did. 109 00:05:40,080 --> 00:05:42,620 They were carved into the facades of the buildings, 110 00:05:42,620 --> 00:05:46,050 even the churches, rather than the usual figures of Saints, 111 00:05:46,050 --> 00:05:49,150 some of the churches boast carved images of the heads 112 00:05:49,150 --> 00:05:51,090 of wealthy patron families, 113 00:05:51,090 --> 00:05:54,213 and the ships that brought these riches into the city. 114 00:05:55,216 --> 00:05:57,080 (tense dramatic music) (boat horn sounding) 115 00:05:57,080 --> 00:05:58,970 Things are no different today. 116 00:05:58,970 --> 00:06:01,070 Tourism brings in the money, 117 00:06:01,070 --> 00:06:04,380 monstrous cruise ships dock daily in Venice, 118 00:06:04,380 --> 00:06:06,800 more than 500 every year. 119 00:06:06,800 --> 00:06:09,253 They are like enormous harbingers of doom. 120 00:06:10,270 --> 00:06:11,853 What do they mean for the city? 121 00:06:13,578 --> 00:06:18,578 (tense dramatic music) (water whooshing) 122 00:06:19,881 --> 00:06:21,320 Tourism benefits Venice, doesn't it, 123 00:06:21,320 --> 00:06:23,122 but it's also a threat. 124 00:06:23,122 --> 00:06:27,840 {\an8}(speaking in a foreign language) 125 00:06:27,840 --> 00:06:30,540 {\an8}The famous cruise ships, like these here, 126 00:06:30,540 --> 00:06:33,560 {\an8}have repeatedly sparked heated debates. 127 00:06:33,560 --> 00:06:36,973 As activists, we are fighting against these ships. 128 00:06:39,110 --> 00:06:42,240 The crazy thing is they only account for 2% 129 00:06:42,240 --> 00:06:43,940 of total tourism. 130 00:06:43,940 --> 00:06:47,360 But the people from these ships overrun Venice every day 131 00:06:47,360 --> 00:06:49,930 in their thousands for a few hours, 132 00:06:49,930 --> 00:06:51,720 then they disappear again. 133 00:06:51,720 --> 00:06:54,500 They don't contribute anything to the City of Venice, 134 00:06:54,500 --> 00:06:57,500 if anything, they have a negative impact. 135 00:06:57,500 --> 00:07:00,959 Mass tourism is destroying our city. 136 00:07:00,959 --> 00:07:05,390 (speaking in a foreign language) 137 00:07:05,390 --> 00:07:07,120 cruise ship travel to Venice 138 00:07:07,120 --> 00:07:09,490 has been a major industry for some time. 139 00:07:09,490 --> 00:07:12,330 international corporations, and the port authorities 140 00:07:12,330 --> 00:07:15,560 earn millions from these immense boats every year, 141 00:07:15,560 --> 00:07:18,740 but the Venetians themselves hardly see a penny of it. 142 00:07:18,740 --> 00:07:21,320 A great deal hangs in the balance for Venice, 143 00:07:21,320 --> 00:07:23,660 the city must be protected from the problems 144 00:07:23,660 --> 00:07:25,550 caused by excessive tourism. 145 00:07:25,550 --> 00:07:27,520 Many Venetians would like to see the city 146 00:07:27,520 --> 00:07:30,250 placed on the UNESCO red list 147 00:07:30,250 --> 00:07:33,120 of at-risk World Heritage Sites. 148 00:07:33,120 --> 00:07:35,950 Thus far only vague attempts at a solution 149 00:07:35,950 --> 00:07:37,240 have been forthcoming. 150 00:07:37,240 --> 00:07:41,583 13 million visitors a year, it's just too many. 151 00:07:41,583 --> 00:07:44,833 (tense dramatic music) 152 00:07:45,710 --> 00:07:49,420 What looks like a cohesive city from above 153 00:07:49,420 --> 00:07:54,420 was once more than 120 separate islands in a swampy lagoon, 154 00:07:55,260 --> 00:07:58,670 they were connected with each other by more than 400 bridges 155 00:07:58,670 --> 00:08:02,060 and canals were dug to serve as transport routes, 156 00:08:02,060 --> 00:08:05,340 and that's how Venice was created in the fifth century 157 00:08:05,340 --> 00:08:08,070 as Attila the Hun ravaged the surrounding kingdom 158 00:08:08,070 --> 00:08:11,890 of Venetia, many people were able to escape to safety 159 00:08:11,890 --> 00:08:13,310 on these islands, 160 00:08:13,310 --> 00:08:16,423 but how did they manage to build a city in a swamp? 161 00:08:17,778 --> 00:08:21,860 (tense dramatic music) (water whooshing) 162 00:08:21,860 --> 00:08:24,110 A typical Venetian building is supported 163 00:08:24,110 --> 00:08:26,350 by a brick wall in the mud. 164 00:08:26,350 --> 00:08:30,870 The facades on the canal side are built on long, thin poles, 165 00:08:30,870 --> 00:08:33,440 on top of that are bricks and limestone, 166 00:08:33,440 --> 00:08:35,520 partly to prevent rising damp. 167 00:08:35,520 --> 00:08:38,410 It was a clever way of preventing the ornate facades 168 00:08:38,410 --> 00:08:40,650 from sliding down into the water, 169 00:08:40,650 --> 00:08:43,363 but the system wasn't built to last forever. 170 00:08:44,326 --> 00:08:49,326 (tense dramatic music) (water whooshing) 171 00:08:51,510 --> 00:08:53,830 Now these impressive buildings are sinking 172 00:08:53,830 --> 00:08:56,310 by about three millimeters every year. 173 00:08:56,310 --> 00:08:59,520 Bow waves and ship's propellors stir up the water, 174 00:08:59,520 --> 00:09:02,740 slowly washing away the mortar between the bricks. 175 00:09:02,740 --> 00:09:04,540 The foundations are crumbling, 176 00:09:04,540 --> 00:09:06,653 and the city is beginning to sink. 177 00:09:09,770 --> 00:09:13,023 The morbid charm of Venice takes on a new meaning, 178 00:09:14,260 --> 00:09:17,260 but the reasons for this impending catastrophe 179 00:09:17,260 --> 00:09:18,663 are only partly local. 180 00:09:20,742 --> 00:09:22,480 (speaking in a foreign language) 181 00:09:22,480 --> 00:09:25,350 Our city's problems are very closely linked 182 00:09:25,350 --> 00:09:29,130 to climate change, and that's why we have to think globally, 183 00:09:29,130 --> 00:09:30,850 not just locally. 184 00:09:30,850 --> 00:09:33,940 It would be wrong to believe that the city administrators, 185 00:09:33,940 --> 00:09:37,560 or the government could do anything about it on their own, 186 00:09:37,560 --> 00:09:40,570 they are fighting a losing battle after all. 187 00:09:40,570 --> 00:09:43,900 Venice is part of humanity's cultural heritage, 188 00:09:43,900 --> 00:09:46,154 it belongs to the world, 189 00:09:46,154 --> 00:09:48,240 and the city's fate will be largely determined 190 00:09:48,240 --> 00:09:51,540 by a problem that also affects all of humanity. 191 00:09:51,540 --> 00:09:54,300 That's why it can't be left up to the Venetians alone 192 00:09:54,300 --> 00:09:55,250 to find a solution. 193 00:09:58,610 --> 00:10:02,350 So Venice, isn't just sinking, it's drowning. 194 00:10:02,350 --> 00:10:04,900 When the acqua alta, the high water comes, 195 00:10:04,900 --> 00:10:06,620 the first place it always floods 196 00:10:06,620 --> 00:10:09,250 is the low-lying St. Mark's Square. 197 00:10:09,250 --> 00:10:11,920 It's been happening for centuries, but in recent years, 198 00:10:11,920 --> 00:10:15,570 the floods have grown more frequent, and more dangerous, 199 00:10:15,570 --> 00:10:19,190 and they're taking their toll on the Venetian lagoon, 200 00:10:19,190 --> 00:10:22,440 which has also a UNESCO World Heritage Site. 201 00:10:22,440 --> 00:10:25,800 Rising sea levels are also exacting a cost here, 202 00:10:25,800 --> 00:10:29,080 erosion, and new deeper channels for cruise ships 203 00:10:29,080 --> 00:10:32,223 are turning the lagoon back into part of the open sea. 204 00:10:33,541 --> 00:10:36,210 (tense dramatic music) 205 00:10:36,210 --> 00:10:38,390 It was really the Venetian lagoon 206 00:10:38,390 --> 00:10:40,400 that gave birth to the city. 207 00:10:40,400 --> 00:10:41,910 This is where it all started, 208 00:10:41,910 --> 00:10:45,420 the powerful Republic of Venice could only have arisen 209 00:10:45,420 --> 00:10:46,960 in this shallow body of water 210 00:10:46,960 --> 00:10:49,370 with its more than 100 islands. 211 00:10:49,370 --> 00:10:52,260 The lagoon served as a gateway to the world, 212 00:10:52,260 --> 00:10:55,020 but it also protected the city from invaders, 213 00:10:55,020 --> 00:10:58,170 because only the Venetians knew how to find the waterways 214 00:10:58,170 --> 00:11:01,520 that were deep enough to be navigable by large ships. 215 00:11:01,520 --> 00:11:04,150 And even today, these waterways are marked 216 00:11:04,150 --> 00:11:07,440 with pali, or wooden poles that are tied together, 217 00:11:07,440 --> 00:11:10,320 and when a foreign Naval power threatened the city, 218 00:11:10,320 --> 00:11:12,900 the Venetians simply removed the poles, 219 00:11:12,900 --> 00:11:16,713 turning the lagoon into a treacherous maze of shallows. 220 00:11:17,631 --> 00:11:18,464 (tense dramatic music) 221 00:11:18,464 --> 00:11:22,170 The village of Burano with its crooked Campanile 222 00:11:22,170 --> 00:11:24,450 is one of the beauties of the lagoon. 223 00:11:24,450 --> 00:11:28,470 It rests on four tiny islands connected by bridges. 224 00:11:28,470 --> 00:11:32,080 Today, many Islanders still make their living from fishing. 225 00:11:32,080 --> 00:11:35,590 Like the Venetians, they live between land and sea, 226 00:11:35,590 --> 00:11:38,460 and they try to outdo each other by painting their houses 227 00:11:38,460 --> 00:11:40,160 in the most brilliant colors 228 00:11:40,160 --> 00:11:43,080 as if in defiance of an uncertain future, 229 00:11:43,080 --> 00:11:45,210 because of course the environmental changes 230 00:11:45,210 --> 00:11:48,370 taking place in the lagoon are also leaving their mark 231 00:11:48,370 --> 00:11:50,830 on the fishers of Burano. 232 00:11:50,830 --> 00:11:54,400 Many of them have started specializing in catching moeche, 233 00:11:54,400 --> 00:11:57,660 Venice's soft shell lagoon crabs. 234 00:11:57,660 --> 00:12:00,570 Sebastiano is one of these fishermen. 235 00:12:00,570 --> 00:12:02,733 We're sailing out to his fishing grounds. 236 00:12:04,039 --> 00:12:07,539 (relaxing dramatic music) 237 00:12:08,440 --> 00:12:12,090 The crabs live on the Sandy floor of the lagoon. 238 00:12:12,090 --> 00:12:14,580 In Venice, they are considered gioielli, 239 00:12:14,580 --> 00:12:16,700 jewels, or a delicacy. 240 00:12:16,700 --> 00:12:18,690 They can only be found in the lagoon, 241 00:12:18,690 --> 00:12:22,163 and only twice a year for a few weeks in spring and autumn. 242 00:12:23,341 --> 00:12:27,424 (speaking in a foreign language) 243 00:12:35,620 --> 00:12:37,810 This tradition is passed on from father 244 00:12:37,810 --> 00:12:39,703 to son over the generations. 245 00:12:40,700 --> 00:12:44,120 {\an8}Finding the really good crabs isn't easy at all. 246 00:12:44,120 --> 00:12:46,430 {\an8}There used to be a lot more fish in the lagoon. 247 00:12:46,430 --> 00:12:49,883 {\an8}Today, the crabs are our most important business. 248 00:12:51,640 --> 00:12:54,420 The large number of ships have become a problem, 249 00:12:54,420 --> 00:12:57,573 and not just the big cruise ships, but the small ones too. 250 00:12:58,570 --> 00:13:00,413 There are just too many of them, 251 00:13:01,509 --> 00:13:03,350 and they bring debris with them. 252 00:13:03,350 --> 00:13:06,583 The lagoon is a closed system, it shouldn't be disrupted. 253 00:13:07,975 --> 00:13:12,766 (speaking in a foreign language) 254 00:13:12,766 --> 00:13:14,580 (tense dramatic music) 255 00:13:14,580 --> 00:13:18,930 The island, Lazzaretto Vecchio, was also a closed system. 256 00:13:18,930 --> 00:13:22,360 It was a plague hospital, far away from the city. 257 00:13:22,360 --> 00:13:25,170 Plague sufferers were placed in quarantine here. 258 00:13:25,170 --> 00:13:28,420 They received medical care, but many died. 259 00:13:28,420 --> 00:13:31,790 The term quarantine was probably first coined 260 00:13:31,790 --> 00:13:33,610 in the city state of Venice, 261 00:13:33,610 --> 00:13:36,710 quaranta giorni, 40 days is how long the sick 262 00:13:36,710 --> 00:13:38,650 was supposed to remain isolated, 263 00:13:38,650 --> 00:13:40,450 while all events in the city, 264 00:13:40,450 --> 00:13:43,270 including church services were banned, 265 00:13:43,270 --> 00:13:45,950 and people were ordered to remain in their houses, 266 00:13:45,950 --> 00:13:48,130 experiences that will feel familiar 267 00:13:48,130 --> 00:13:50,000 to those of us who have been dealing 268 00:13:50,000 --> 00:13:52,134 with a modern pandemic. 269 00:13:52,134 --> 00:13:57,134 (tense dramatic music) (birds chirping) 270 00:13:58,430 --> 00:14:01,760 The Black Death returned to Venice in the 17th century, 271 00:14:01,760 --> 00:14:05,010 and this time it was more virulent than ever before. 272 00:14:05,010 --> 00:14:09,840 November 1630 marks the beginning of an era of mass death. 273 00:14:09,840 --> 00:14:13,507 The Venational health authorities recorded 14,465 deaths 274 00:14:15,800 --> 00:14:18,100 for the month of November alone. 275 00:14:18,100 --> 00:14:20,240 Plague suffers who were still alive 276 00:14:20,240 --> 00:14:23,710 were quarantined on the Island of the Lazzaretto Vecchio. 277 00:14:23,710 --> 00:14:25,150 It was hell on earth. 278 00:14:25,150 --> 00:14:28,110 The sick were piled together, three or four to a bed. 279 00:14:28,110 --> 00:14:30,860 Medical assistance was virtually non-existent. 280 00:14:30,860 --> 00:14:33,550 Prospects for recovery were grim. 281 00:14:33,550 --> 00:14:36,790 Mass graves with up to 1,500 corpses were dug 282 00:14:36,790 --> 00:14:38,550 right here on this island. 283 00:14:38,550 --> 00:14:42,530 The wounds inflicted on the city by the plague never healed, 284 00:14:42,530 --> 00:14:45,513 and Venice would never be restored to its former glory. 285 00:14:47,378 --> 00:14:49,740 "Abandon hope, all ye who enter here," 286 00:14:49,740 --> 00:14:51,720 is written above the entrance to hell 287 00:14:51,720 --> 00:14:53,730 in Dante's "Divine Comedy." 288 00:14:53,730 --> 00:14:55,610 I can't help, but recall these words 289 00:14:55,610 --> 00:14:57,463 as I enter the Lazzaretto Vecchio. 290 00:14:58,507 --> 00:15:01,200 (footsteps thudding) (slow relaxing music) 291 00:15:01,200 --> 00:15:04,840 Plague suffers received experimental therapies here, 292 00:15:04,840 --> 00:15:06,720 and an effort was made to supply them 293 00:15:06,720 --> 00:15:08,730 with suitable food and drink, 294 00:15:08,730 --> 00:15:11,963 but when the numbers surged, the conditions were grim. 295 00:15:14,140 --> 00:15:16,960 Graffiti from the 17th century, 296 00:15:16,960 --> 00:15:18,530 even in this desperate place, 297 00:15:18,530 --> 00:15:21,043 plague patients wanted to be remembered. 298 00:15:23,110 --> 00:15:24,570 (birds chirping) 299 00:15:24,570 --> 00:15:26,830 It's said that the howling of the sick 300 00:15:26,830 --> 00:15:28,520 could be heard across the water 301 00:15:28,520 --> 00:15:30,713 on the neighboring islands in the Lido. 302 00:15:32,024 --> 00:15:35,191 (slow relaxing music) 303 00:15:37,500 --> 00:15:41,500 The institutions and architecture of the Christian churches 304 00:15:41,500 --> 00:15:44,453 have left deep marks on this continent's identity. 305 00:15:45,854 --> 00:15:49,130 (tense dramatic music) (water whooshing) 306 00:15:49,130 --> 00:15:52,700 I'm on my way to Spain, to Santiago de Compostela, 307 00:15:52,700 --> 00:15:54,960 the capital city of Galicia. 308 00:15:54,960 --> 00:15:57,660 Santiago is the destination of every road 309 00:15:57,660 --> 00:15:59,710 and trail on the Camino de Santiago. 310 00:15:59,710 --> 00:16:01,950 The way of Saint James, 311 00:16:01,950 --> 00:16:05,840 a network of pilgrimage routes that crisscrosses Europe. 312 00:16:05,840 --> 00:16:09,060 The main route leads through Northern Spain 313 00:16:09,060 --> 00:16:10,383 where I'm traveling today. 314 00:16:11,631 --> 00:16:16,631 (birds chirping) (slow relaxing music) 315 00:16:18,460 --> 00:16:20,890 The golden age of this pilgrimage trail 316 00:16:20,890 --> 00:16:22,940 was the 11th and 12th centuries 317 00:16:22,940 --> 00:16:25,570 when the Christian sites in the Holy Land 318 00:16:25,570 --> 00:16:27,623 were no longer accessible to pilgrims. 319 00:16:30,700 --> 00:16:33,860 Today, it's hard to imagine how devout the Christians 320 00:16:33,860 --> 00:16:36,760 of this era must have been to make this pilgrimage 321 00:16:36,760 --> 00:16:39,460 all the way to the outer reaches of Galicia. 322 00:16:39,460 --> 00:16:42,800 The pilgrims world was shaped by Saints, and relics, 323 00:16:42,800 --> 00:16:46,820 {\an8}and by the desire to be close to them and thus close to God. 324 00:16:46,820 --> 00:16:49,520 {\an8}And the journey towards God was in theory at least, 325 00:16:49,520 --> 00:16:51,360 a journey away from sin. 326 00:16:51,360 --> 00:16:53,170 Pilgrims sacrificed everything 327 00:16:53,170 --> 00:16:55,220 in these dark and dangerous times 328 00:16:55,220 --> 00:16:58,450 to travel halfway across Europe on foot. 329 00:16:58,450 --> 00:17:00,730 And all along the Camino today, 330 00:17:00,730 --> 00:17:02,370 you can still sense something, 331 00:17:02,370 --> 00:17:04,040 The sinews of Christian Europe, 332 00:17:04,040 --> 00:17:06,810 perhaps sinews that cross the entire continent, 333 00:17:06,810 --> 00:17:08,850 and extend into Britain and Ireland. 334 00:17:08,850 --> 00:17:10,590 Even back in the 12th century, 335 00:17:10,590 --> 00:17:13,340 everything there was to know about this pilgrimage route 336 00:17:13,340 --> 00:17:16,200 was precisely documented in a book, 337 00:17:16,200 --> 00:17:19,300 the "Liber Sancti Jacobi", written by a priest, 338 00:17:19,300 --> 00:17:21,680 and this book doesn't just describe the route itself 339 00:17:21,680 --> 00:17:24,420 in great detail, it also warns pilgrims 340 00:17:24,420 --> 00:17:27,260 of the dangers they might face, diseases, 341 00:17:27,260 --> 00:17:29,470 dishonest innkeepers along the route, 342 00:17:29,470 --> 00:17:31,740 highwaymen, and even prostitution, 343 00:17:31,740 --> 00:17:35,140 which was a very lively trade here in Porto Marine. 344 00:17:35,140 --> 00:17:37,790 In other words, the journey to St. James 345 00:17:37,790 --> 00:17:40,090 had both a sacred and a worldly dimension, 346 00:17:40,090 --> 00:17:43,060 and this Pilgrim's guide is as practical 347 00:17:43,060 --> 00:17:45,000 as it is spiritual. 348 00:17:45,000 --> 00:17:47,800 But the book mainly focuses on the many miracles 349 00:17:47,800 --> 00:17:49,250 attributed to St. James, 350 00:17:49,250 --> 00:17:52,423 and it also includes prayers and hymns. 351 00:17:53,485 --> 00:17:57,485 (singing in a foreign language) 352 00:18:05,063 --> 00:18:10,063 (somber choral music) (birds chirping) 353 00:18:15,100 --> 00:18:18,070 The churches and cathedrals all along the way 354 00:18:18,070 --> 00:18:21,100 of St. James were important pilgrimage sites, 355 00:18:21,100 --> 00:18:23,530 and they are also World Heritage Sites, 356 00:18:23,530 --> 00:18:25,140 like Chartres in France, 357 00:18:25,140 --> 00:18:27,280 the archetypal high-gothic cathedral, 358 00:18:27,280 --> 00:18:30,550 further South, the Romanesque churches of Arre, 359 00:18:30,550 --> 00:18:33,060 or the Cathedral of Salamanca, 360 00:18:33,060 --> 00:18:36,200 but smaller churches were part of the route as well. 361 00:18:36,200 --> 00:18:38,870 The pilgrims journeyed from one house of worship 362 00:18:38,870 --> 00:18:39,703 to the next. 363 00:18:40,621 --> 00:18:43,788 (slow relaxing music) 364 00:18:47,250 --> 00:18:49,990 Today, you'll meet pilgrims from all over the world, 365 00:18:49,990 --> 00:18:53,430 from every culture on the way of St. James. 366 00:18:53,430 --> 00:18:56,140 This scallop shell from the nearby Atlantic Ocean 367 00:18:56,140 --> 00:18:58,970 is the badge and symbol of the pilgrimage to Santiago, 368 00:18:58,970 --> 00:19:02,670 it's even mentioned in the 12th century pilgrims' guides, 369 00:19:02,670 --> 00:19:05,190 but many of today's pilgrims are motivated 370 00:19:05,190 --> 00:19:07,920 by other than purely religious motives. 371 00:19:07,920 --> 00:19:10,640 They want to learn something about themselves, 372 00:19:10,640 --> 00:19:12,170 get to know other people, 373 00:19:12,170 --> 00:19:15,190 commune with nature and draw inspiration 374 00:19:15,190 --> 00:19:16,700 from the beautiful landscapes, 375 00:19:16,700 --> 00:19:19,390 and the life of small wayside villages, 376 00:19:19,390 --> 00:19:22,224 a welcome change for city people. 377 00:19:22,224 --> 00:19:26,070 (slow traditional music) (cows mooing) 378 00:19:26,070 --> 00:19:28,620 The journey is less about formal religion 379 00:19:28,620 --> 00:19:30,970 than about spirituality. 380 00:19:30,970 --> 00:19:34,600 50 years ago, these trails were practically deserted, 381 00:19:34,600 --> 00:19:37,120 but in the late 1980s, the way of St. James 382 00:19:37,120 --> 00:19:38,850 experienced a renascence, 383 00:19:38,850 --> 00:19:43,850 and in 1993, it was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. 384 00:19:43,930 --> 00:19:47,610 Now there are years when 300,000 pilgrims 385 00:19:47,610 --> 00:19:50,147 travel the way of St. James. 386 00:19:50,147 --> 00:19:55,147 (slow traditional music) (birds chirping) 387 00:19:58,480 --> 00:20:01,420 The way of St. James, doesn't always end in Santiago, 388 00:20:01,420 --> 00:20:03,460 which we'll explore soon, 389 00:20:03,460 --> 00:20:04,980 since the Middle Ages, 390 00:20:04,980 --> 00:20:06,800 pilgrims have extended their journey 391 00:20:06,800 --> 00:20:11,160 to the western most tip of Spain on the Atlantic Coast, 392 00:20:11,160 --> 00:20:12,643 and for a very good reason. 393 00:20:17,220 --> 00:20:19,020 Santiago de Compostela 394 00:20:19,020 --> 00:20:23,290 the name means St. James on the field of stars. 395 00:20:23,290 --> 00:20:25,510 This apostle of Jesus is said to be buried 396 00:20:25,510 --> 00:20:27,330 at the cathedral in Santiago. 397 00:20:27,330 --> 00:20:30,900 It's a slightly murky story, here at the end of the world, 398 00:20:30,900 --> 00:20:33,770 finis terrae as the Romans called this region, 399 00:20:33,770 --> 00:20:37,200 is where he preached and attempted to spread Christianity 400 00:20:37,200 --> 00:20:39,780 without much success, as has to be said. 401 00:20:39,780 --> 00:20:43,480 Then when he returned to Palestine in the year 44 AD, 402 00:20:43,480 --> 00:20:45,687 he was killed by King Herod Agrippa I 403 00:20:47,120 --> 00:20:49,510 His disciples laid him to rest in a sarcophagus, 404 00:20:49,510 --> 00:20:52,010 which they placed in a boat that they pushed out 405 00:20:52,010 --> 00:20:54,040 into the Mediterranean Sea. 406 00:20:54,040 --> 00:20:55,320 Through divine providence, 407 00:20:55,320 --> 00:20:58,260 the boat drifted a shore on, you guessed it, 408 00:20:58,260 --> 00:21:01,600 the Galician Coast and the sarcophagus was entombed 409 00:21:01,600 --> 00:21:04,973 where the cathedral stands today, or so legend has it. 410 00:21:06,883 --> 00:21:10,133 (tense dramatic music) 411 00:21:11,550 --> 00:21:14,240 Whether you believe the story or not, 412 00:21:14,240 --> 00:21:16,580 arriving at the cathedral is the highlight 413 00:21:16,580 --> 00:21:20,750 of this pilgrimage, and here there's an appointment to keep 414 00:21:20,750 --> 00:21:22,233 with the Saint himself. 415 00:21:31,330 --> 00:21:34,590 Here behind the statue of St. James 416 00:21:34,590 --> 00:21:37,910 is where the arduous journey comes to an end, 417 00:21:37,910 --> 00:21:41,090 a journey that has a very special and personal meaning 418 00:21:41,090 --> 00:21:42,940 for each and every pilgrim. 419 00:21:42,940 --> 00:21:45,820 Exhausted, you embrace the Saint, 420 00:21:45,820 --> 00:21:47,930 and then return into everyday life, 421 00:21:47,930 --> 00:21:50,880 into a life that may perhaps have been changed 422 00:21:50,880 --> 00:21:52,370 by the pilgrim's journey. 423 00:21:53,872 --> 00:21:57,289 (uptempo dramatic music) 424 00:22:00,553 --> 00:22:02,180 (people murmuring) 425 00:22:02,180 --> 00:22:04,930 The historic district of Santiago de Compostela 426 00:22:04,930 --> 00:22:07,420 is also a World Heritage Site. 427 00:22:07,420 --> 00:22:10,950 The constant traffic and visitors transformed the city 428 00:22:10,950 --> 00:22:13,511 into a prosperous cultural hub. 429 00:22:13,511 --> 00:22:16,428 (people murmuring) 430 00:22:18,400 --> 00:22:20,829 Right down to the 15th century, 431 00:22:20,829 --> 00:22:23,180 Santiago de Compostela attracted more pilgrims 432 00:22:23,180 --> 00:22:25,330 than Rome or Jerusalem. 433 00:22:25,330 --> 00:22:28,070 Every European cultural and artistic movement 434 00:22:28,070 --> 00:22:30,670 is represented here from the Middle Ages, 435 00:22:30,670 --> 00:22:32,993 through the Renaissance to the Baroque. 436 00:22:34,093 --> 00:22:37,343 (tense dramatic music) 437 00:22:38,440 --> 00:22:41,450 Santiago's architecture speaks of a Europe 438 00:22:41,450 --> 00:22:42,960 that was deeply connected 439 00:22:42,960 --> 00:22:45,990 across ethnic and geographical boundaries. 440 00:22:45,990 --> 00:22:48,230 Today, these connections are global, 441 00:22:48,230 --> 00:22:49,900 and they're embodied in the encounters 442 00:22:49,900 --> 00:22:52,580 between people who reached the end of their pilgrimage 443 00:22:52,580 --> 00:22:54,540 in Santiago de Compostela. 444 00:22:54,540 --> 00:22:57,130 The journey is a shared experience, 445 00:22:57,130 --> 00:22:59,800 but it has a different and highly personal meaning 446 00:22:59,800 --> 00:23:01,350 for everyone who undertakes it. 447 00:23:02,810 --> 00:23:04,020 Where are you from? 448 00:23:04,020 --> 00:23:05,550 From Perth, Australia. 449 00:23:05,550 --> 00:23:07,169 From Perth, Australia? 450 00:23:07,169 --> 00:23:08,439 Yeah, yeah. Amazing, I'm from Sydney. 451 00:23:08,439 --> 00:23:10,210 Oh wow. And where are you from? 452 00:23:10,210 --> 00:23:14,790 I'm from Columbia, specifically in Cucuta. 453 00:23:14,790 --> 00:23:17,993 I wanted to challenge myself, I guess. 454 00:23:18,830 --> 00:23:22,390 I wanted to have some time to think about some things 455 00:23:22,390 --> 00:23:25,410 in my life, and some direction in my life. 456 00:23:25,410 --> 00:23:26,530 Mm-hmm (affirmative). 457 00:23:26,530 --> 00:23:28,680 The people focus on the simple things 458 00:23:28,680 --> 00:23:31,810 in life, which helped them realize that their worries 459 00:23:31,810 --> 00:23:34,710 aren't really as bad as they thought. 460 00:23:34,710 --> 00:23:37,840 There are so many ways to enjoy life, 461 00:23:37,840 --> 00:23:39,543 and that's true for hiking too. 462 00:23:41,477 --> 00:23:44,143 Why did you do it? Why did I do it? 463 00:23:45,530 --> 00:23:47,803 Well, I guess I was kind of lost, 464 00:23:48,730 --> 00:23:51,943 and I needed time to know myself better, 465 00:23:52,910 --> 00:23:53,960 and That's why, yeah. 466 00:23:54,830 --> 00:23:57,770 The mass for pilgrims held in the cathedral 467 00:23:57,770 --> 00:23:59,990 is an incredible spectacle. 468 00:23:59,990 --> 00:24:01,670 After reading out all the names, 469 00:24:01,670 --> 00:24:03,240 and nationalities of the pilgrims 470 00:24:03,240 --> 00:24:05,030 who've arrived in Santiago, 471 00:24:05,030 --> 00:24:08,010 the tiraboleiros spring into action. 472 00:24:08,010 --> 00:24:10,010 They are the men in red velvet robes 473 00:24:10,010 --> 00:24:11,410 who pull up the Botafumeiro, 474 00:24:12,269 --> 00:24:14,380 an enormous incense burner. 475 00:24:14,380 --> 00:24:17,970 even when empty, it weighs 53 kilograms, 476 00:24:17,970 --> 00:24:20,610 and when it starts to swing through the cathedral, 477 00:24:20,610 --> 00:24:24,930 it can reach speeds of up to 68 kilometers per hour. 478 00:24:24,930 --> 00:24:27,910 As long as you take care to stay out of the way, 479 00:24:27,910 --> 00:24:30,580 it's a fitting celebration for every pilgrim 480 00:24:30,580 --> 00:24:32,769 who makes it to Santiago, 481 00:24:32,769 --> 00:24:35,936 (somber church music) 482 00:24:47,540 --> 00:24:50,470 Devout pilgrims, receive Holy Communion, 483 00:24:50,470 --> 00:24:52,560 accompanied by the singing of hymns 484 00:24:52,560 --> 00:24:53,773 and the baroque organ. 485 00:24:59,730 --> 00:25:02,500 Transported by the sounds of the organ, 486 00:25:02,500 --> 00:25:04,800 we travel to Germany. 487 00:25:04,800 --> 00:25:06,870 The German tradition of organ making 488 00:25:06,870 --> 00:25:11,140 is included on UNESCO's Intangible Cultural Heritage list. 489 00:25:11,140 --> 00:25:14,630 My route to the organ makers in Bonne on the Rhine River, 490 00:25:14,630 --> 00:25:17,050 leads me through the Rhine Gorge. 491 00:25:17,050 --> 00:25:19,950 It's unparalleled landscape, it's castles, 492 00:25:19,950 --> 00:25:21,930 and it's rich history have earned it 493 00:25:21,930 --> 00:25:25,240 the status of a World Heritage Site. 494 00:25:25,240 --> 00:25:27,720 For 2000 years, the Rhine has been one 495 00:25:27,720 --> 00:25:30,220 of the most important roots of cultural exchange 496 00:25:30,220 --> 00:25:32,500 between the North and the South of Europe, 497 00:25:32,500 --> 00:25:35,260 it has served alternately as a border, 498 00:25:35,260 --> 00:25:37,820 and as a bridge between cultures, 499 00:25:37,820 --> 00:25:40,040 but it has always played a vital role 500 00:25:40,040 --> 00:25:41,660 in the history of Western Europe. 501 00:25:41,660 --> 00:25:44,230 The traditions of wine growing and shipping 502 00:25:44,230 --> 00:25:46,790 have deep roots in this region. 503 00:25:46,790 --> 00:25:50,480 Nowhere else in the world will you find a denser array 504 00:25:50,480 --> 00:25:52,730 of historic castles and palaces 505 00:25:52,730 --> 00:25:55,170 than here on the banks of the Rhine. 506 00:25:55,170 --> 00:25:56,600 In the high Middle Ages, 507 00:25:56,600 --> 00:26:00,280 they were the heart of political and cultural life. 508 00:26:00,280 --> 00:26:03,960 Each of these castles has its own story to tell, 509 00:26:03,960 --> 00:26:07,540 they were customs offices, strategic strongholds, 510 00:26:07,540 --> 00:26:12,540 or aristocratic estates occupied by robber barons, bishops, 511 00:26:12,560 --> 00:26:13,863 or wealthy merchants. 512 00:26:14,890 --> 00:26:17,793 My journey takes me a fair distance down rhe Rhine. 513 00:26:18,930 --> 00:26:21,930 Organ making is a tradition that has been passed down, 514 00:26:21,930 --> 00:26:25,020 and kept alive from generation to generation. 515 00:26:25,020 --> 00:26:27,543 I'm keen to learn more about it in this workshop. 516 00:26:29,432 --> 00:26:31,340 (relaxing dramatic music) 517 00:26:31,340 --> 00:26:36,020 UNESCO includes German organ making, and German organ music, 518 00:26:36,020 --> 00:26:38,560 on its Intangible Cultural Heritage list, 519 00:26:38,560 --> 00:26:41,790 partly because Germany has the highest concentration 520 00:26:41,790 --> 00:26:43,700 of organs anywhere in the world, 521 00:26:43,700 --> 00:26:46,800 there were around 50,000 of them in this country, 522 00:26:46,800 --> 00:26:49,500 and German composers like Buxtehude, 523 00:26:49,500 --> 00:26:51,830 Pachelbel, Bach, and Handel 524 00:26:51,830 --> 00:26:55,130 shaped the very nature of organ music around the world. 525 00:26:55,130 --> 00:26:58,060 The organ was always a cosmopolitan instrument, 526 00:26:58,060 --> 00:27:00,640 its history is global, but in Germany, 527 00:27:00,640 --> 00:27:03,770 it seems to have become part of the country's identity 528 00:27:04,846 --> 00:27:07,390 (tense dramatic music) (hammer thudding) 529 00:27:07,390 --> 00:27:09,600 For more than 100 years, 530 00:27:09,600 --> 00:27:12,990 the workshops owned by the Klais family in Bonn 531 00:27:12,990 --> 00:27:16,603 have been producing organs for the entire world. 532 00:27:16,603 --> 00:27:17,903 (speaking in a foreign language) 533 00:27:17,903 --> 00:27:21,200 Mr. Klais, what makes the organ such a special instrument? 534 00:27:21,200 --> 00:27:23,460 {\an8}the most fascinating thing about an organ, 535 00:27:23,460 --> 00:27:27,710 {\an8}and what has made it so completely unique for 2,300 years 536 00:27:27,710 --> 00:27:30,840 {\an8}is an idea that the inventor, Ctesibius, came up with. 537 00:27:30,840 --> 00:27:32,740 Separating the energy supply 538 00:27:32,740 --> 00:27:34,510 from the playing of the instrument. 539 00:27:34,510 --> 00:27:37,090 There's a bellows back here, I just have to lift it, 540 00:27:37,090 --> 00:27:39,990 ad then I need to give it a little bit more air, 541 00:27:39,990 --> 00:27:40,840 and there you go. 542 00:27:41,954 --> 00:27:44,871 (slow organ music) 543 00:27:47,950 --> 00:27:50,950 (tense organ music) 544 00:27:53,380 --> 00:27:55,520 Alongside the beautiful pipes, 545 00:27:55,520 --> 00:27:58,800 the intricate mechanisms that comprise the inner workings 546 00:27:58,800 --> 00:28:01,420 of an organ with their thousands of valves 547 00:28:01,420 --> 00:28:03,620 are the actual work of art here. 548 00:28:03,620 --> 00:28:06,810 This is where the extraordinarily wide range of notes, 549 00:28:06,810 --> 00:28:08,303 and sounds are generated. 550 00:28:10,046 --> 00:28:12,200 (metal clanking) 551 00:28:12,200 --> 00:28:15,180 Here a tin alloy is being made. 552 00:28:15,180 --> 00:28:17,773 And I feel as if I'm in an alchemist's workshop, 553 00:28:19,137 --> 00:28:21,061 the proportion of each metal and the alloy 554 00:28:21,061 --> 00:28:23,473 influences the characteristics of the future pipe, 555 00:28:24,580 --> 00:28:28,140 this early phase of production already determines 556 00:28:28,140 --> 00:28:32,250 how the organ pipes will sound in the finished instrument. 557 00:28:32,250 --> 00:28:35,260 Once the metal has cooled, it's cut into pieces, 558 00:28:35,260 --> 00:28:37,790 which are then rolled into shapes around molds 559 00:28:37,790 --> 00:28:41,009 called mandrels, and soldered together. 560 00:28:41,009 --> 00:28:42,630 (metal thudding) 561 00:28:42,630 --> 00:28:46,190 Each organ needs at least 150 of these, 562 00:28:46,190 --> 00:28:48,150 and some need thousands. 563 00:28:48,150 --> 00:28:51,681 The more pipes, the richer the tapestry of sounds. 564 00:28:51,681 --> 00:28:54,240 (speaking in a foreign language) 565 00:28:54,240 --> 00:28:55,890 I think we are at a huge advantage 566 00:28:55,890 --> 00:28:59,490 in Germany, this is the land of Johann Sebastian Bach, 567 00:28:59,490 --> 00:29:02,600 who played a decisive role in shaping organ music. 568 00:29:02,600 --> 00:29:04,560 We also have a system of church music, 569 00:29:04,560 --> 00:29:07,290 and very highly-trained, highly-qualified organists, 570 00:29:07,290 --> 00:29:09,680 who bring this culture to the world. 571 00:29:09,680 --> 00:29:12,050 I think you always have to consider organ making, 572 00:29:12,050 --> 00:29:14,250 an organ music in parallel with the situation 573 00:29:14,250 --> 00:29:15,870 we have in Germany. 574 00:29:15,870 --> 00:29:17,970 It's not just about organ making, 575 00:29:17,970 --> 00:29:20,028 it's what you make of it. 576 00:29:20,028 --> 00:29:22,183 Of course, we could always hope for much more. 577 00:29:24,029 --> 00:29:26,810 (tense organ music) 578 00:29:26,810 --> 00:29:28,140 Since time immemorial, 579 00:29:28,140 --> 00:29:31,340 churches have shaped the landscapes of Germany, 580 00:29:31,340 --> 00:29:34,530 the pilgrimage church a Wies near Steingaden 581 00:29:34,530 --> 00:29:37,320 in the Alpine Foothills of Bavaria 582 00:29:37,320 --> 00:29:40,830 is one of the world's most famous Rococo churches, 583 00:29:40,830 --> 00:29:43,423 and it's a UNESCO World Heritage Site. 584 00:29:44,690 --> 00:29:47,180 The cornerstone was laid in 1746 585 00:29:47,180 --> 00:29:49,370 during the golden age of Rococo, 586 00:29:49,370 --> 00:29:51,360 a variant of Baroque. 587 00:29:51,360 --> 00:29:54,353 This organ here is a particular masterpiece. 588 00:29:56,680 --> 00:29:59,770 The church weaves the playfulness and exuberance 589 00:29:59,770 --> 00:30:01,550 of the late Baroque style 590 00:30:01,550 --> 00:30:04,580 into one of Christianity's most important themes, 591 00:30:04,580 --> 00:30:08,610 the salvation of man through the suffering of Jesus Christ, 592 00:30:08,610 --> 00:30:11,620 the ceiling fresco depict Christ's return, 593 00:30:11,620 --> 00:30:14,630 and the salvation of the world through God's mercy. 594 00:30:14,630 --> 00:30:17,643 The gates of Heaven are a promise to the faithful. 595 00:30:19,268 --> 00:30:22,268 (tense organ music) 596 00:30:23,910 --> 00:30:27,500 But let's return to Europe's earthly treasures. 597 00:30:27,500 --> 00:30:30,583 My next destination is the city of Paris. 598 00:30:31,500 --> 00:30:33,340 When God gets bored in heaven, 599 00:30:33,340 --> 00:30:35,320 he opens the window and contemplates 600 00:30:35,320 --> 00:30:36,960 the boulevards of Paris, 601 00:30:36,960 --> 00:30:39,660 the German poet, Henri Heine, once said. 602 00:30:39,660 --> 00:30:42,330 Heine spent half his life in this city. 603 00:30:42,330 --> 00:30:44,090 Paris was already a distinguished, 604 00:30:44,090 --> 00:30:46,350 and important place in the Middle Ages, 605 00:30:46,350 --> 00:30:50,310 but its status as the global yardstick for urban elegance, 606 00:30:50,310 --> 00:30:54,280 and sophistication is a 19th century development. 607 00:30:54,280 --> 00:30:58,450 The City of Lights, the City of Love, cliches without end, 608 00:30:58,450 --> 00:31:02,050 and yet Paris remains a place of singular beauty, 609 00:31:02,050 --> 00:31:04,800 especially this stretch along the banks of the Seine, 610 00:31:04,800 --> 00:31:07,543 lined with graceful buildings and squares. 611 00:31:08,700 --> 00:31:10,780 There's no other place in the world 612 00:31:10,780 --> 00:31:12,710 where the history of an entire country 613 00:31:12,710 --> 00:31:14,780 {\an8}is concentrated in one city, 614 00:31:14,780 --> 00:31:17,660 {\an8}the way it is in Paris on the banks of the Seine. 615 00:31:17,660 --> 00:31:21,210 {\an8}The river is like a golden thread running through every era 616 00:31:21,210 --> 00:31:23,440 from the Celtic Age to the Middle Ages, 617 00:31:23,440 --> 00:31:26,700 from the French Revolution to the Industrial Revolution, 618 00:31:26,700 --> 00:31:29,350 many of the events and ideas that changed the world 619 00:31:29,350 --> 00:31:31,460 were born here in Paris. 620 00:31:31,460 --> 00:31:33,170 French national poet, Victor Hugo, 621 00:31:33,170 --> 00:31:36,030 went so far as to say that the entire world 622 00:31:36,030 --> 00:31:37,830 was reflected in this city. 623 00:31:37,830 --> 00:31:41,550 There's perhaps a tiny bit of French hubris in that opinion, 624 00:31:41,550 --> 00:31:43,160 but it's not entirely wrong. 625 00:31:43,160 --> 00:31:45,680 That Island over there, the Ile de la Cite, 626 00:31:45,680 --> 00:31:47,190 is where it all began. 627 00:31:47,190 --> 00:31:50,560 In the middle of the third century BC, the Celtic tribe, 628 00:31:50,560 --> 00:31:53,810 the Parisii established a settlement there, 629 00:31:53,810 --> 00:31:56,690 and this gold coin that went into circulation 630 00:31:56,690 --> 00:31:58,820 among the Celts shortly afterwards, 631 00:31:58,820 --> 00:32:02,650 seems like a harbinger of the city's great future. 632 00:32:02,650 --> 00:32:05,380 There's a creature spreading its wings, 633 00:32:05,380 --> 00:32:06,583 ready to take flight. 634 00:32:07,588 --> 00:32:09,680 (tense dramatic music) (water whooshing) 635 00:32:09,680 --> 00:32:12,770 The Celts named their city on the Seine, Lucotocia, 636 00:32:12,770 --> 00:32:14,480 place of marshes. 637 00:32:14,480 --> 00:32:16,780 They first made their living from fishing, 638 00:32:16,780 --> 00:32:18,540 then they began charging tolls 639 00:32:18,540 --> 00:32:20,400 to anyone traversing the river. 640 00:32:20,400 --> 00:32:23,740 Their city had grown into an important trade hub. 641 00:32:23,740 --> 00:32:25,760 Then Caesar conquered Gaul. 642 00:32:25,760 --> 00:32:28,570 The Romans arrived, and they set up a colonial city 643 00:32:28,570 --> 00:32:30,320 on the left bank of the Seine. 644 00:32:30,320 --> 00:32:32,900 They called it Lutetia Parisiorum, 645 00:32:32,900 --> 00:32:35,601 the swamp town of the Parisii. 646 00:32:35,601 --> 00:32:37,450 (tense dramatic music) 647 00:32:37,450 --> 00:32:41,160 In the fifth century, the Merovingians under King Clovis 648 00:32:41,160 --> 00:32:43,040 drove the Romans out of Paris, 649 00:32:43,040 --> 00:32:46,830 and the Ile de la Cite became Clovis' capital. 650 00:32:46,830 --> 00:32:48,960 They began to build on the banks of the Seine. 651 00:32:48,960 --> 00:32:51,963 in the Middle Ages, the city grew relentlessly. 652 00:32:56,260 --> 00:32:59,090 The Ile de la Cite in the middle of the river, 653 00:32:59,090 --> 00:33:00,880 became the heart of the city 654 00:33:00,880 --> 00:33:04,540 where the majestic Notre Dame Cathedral now stands. 655 00:33:04,540 --> 00:33:07,480 Great buildings like great mountains 656 00:33:07,480 --> 00:33:10,730 are the work of centuries said Victor Hugo, 657 00:33:10,730 --> 00:33:14,881 time is the architect, people the Masons. 658 00:33:14,881 --> 00:33:18,131 (tense dramatic music) 659 00:33:20,340 --> 00:33:22,110 Notre Dame has two towers, 660 00:33:22,110 --> 00:33:25,370 and this cathedral also has two important meanings, 661 00:33:25,370 --> 00:33:29,040 it's a sanctuary far removed from the day-to-day world, 662 00:33:29,040 --> 00:33:32,520 and it's also a place of national solidarity for the French. 663 00:33:32,520 --> 00:33:35,700 It's the heart, the epicenter from which every distance 664 00:33:35,700 --> 00:33:40,540 to the capital is measured, and its bells rang out in 1944 665 00:33:40,540 --> 00:33:43,370 when the city of Paris was liberated from the Nazis. 666 00:33:43,370 --> 00:33:46,640 Notre Dame is also a reflection of European history, 667 00:33:46,640 --> 00:33:49,510 because traces of every era of this continent 668 00:33:49,510 --> 00:33:51,120 can be found in the cathedral, 669 00:33:51,120 --> 00:33:53,930 and that's one of the reasons why the blaze 670 00:33:53,930 --> 00:33:58,100 on the 15th of April, 2019 was such a shock 671 00:33:58,100 --> 00:34:00,905 to so many people, me included. 672 00:34:00,905 --> 00:34:01,738 (flame crackling) 673 00:34:01,738 --> 00:34:03,540 The images of the burning cathedral 674 00:34:03,540 --> 00:34:05,373 were broadcast around the world. 675 00:34:07,410 --> 00:34:11,660 Construction started 850 years before the fire. 676 00:34:11,660 --> 00:34:14,110 This mighty cathedral came into existence 677 00:34:14,110 --> 00:34:16,300 just as the age of the Romanesque 678 00:34:16,300 --> 00:34:17,910 was giving way to the Gothic, 679 00:34:17,910 --> 00:34:20,633 and it took nearly 200 years to complete. 680 00:34:24,010 --> 00:34:27,000 It's towers overlooked a city quickly evolving 681 00:34:27,000 --> 00:34:31,180 into a metropolis and haven for philosophy and culture. 682 00:34:31,180 --> 00:34:33,880 A university was founded, the Sorbonne, 683 00:34:33,880 --> 00:34:36,990 theaters were built, and even famine and plague 684 00:34:36,990 --> 00:34:39,583 did nothing to hinder Paris's rapid ascent. 685 00:34:42,550 --> 00:34:44,770 The river remained the city's lifeline 686 00:34:44,770 --> 00:34:46,790 ensuring the flow of trade, 687 00:34:46,790 --> 00:34:49,160 this is when the famous Parisian self-confidence 688 00:34:49,160 --> 00:34:50,870 began to coalesce. 689 00:34:50,870 --> 00:34:53,430 They saw themselves as the center of Europe, 690 00:34:53,430 --> 00:34:56,070 the King commissioned the construction of an elegant, 691 00:34:56,070 --> 00:34:59,500 grandiose palace on the right bank of the Seine, 692 00:34:59,500 --> 00:35:00,333 the Louvre. 693 00:35:09,140 --> 00:35:11,540 The first historical mention of the Louvre 694 00:35:11,540 --> 00:35:13,440 was in the year 1200. 695 00:35:13,440 --> 00:35:16,000 At that time, there was already a royal castle here 696 00:35:16,000 --> 00:35:17,020 on the banks of the Seine. 697 00:35:17,020 --> 00:35:19,810 The French rulers were constantly expanding it 698 00:35:19,810 --> 00:35:21,660 to create their feudal capital. 699 00:35:21,660 --> 00:35:24,010 Francois I, Catherine of Medici 700 00:35:24,010 --> 00:35:27,107 while she was queen of France, Henry IV, 701 00:35:27,107 --> 00:35:28,910 and of course all the Louis. 702 00:35:28,910 --> 00:35:31,730 After the French Revolution in 1793, 703 00:35:31,730 --> 00:35:34,530 the former palace where the French Kings had resided 704 00:35:34,530 --> 00:35:38,280 until 1682 was converted into a museum. 705 00:35:38,280 --> 00:35:39,830 The artistic treasures, 706 00:35:39,830 --> 00:35:42,040 once the property of the ruling families 707 00:35:42,040 --> 00:35:44,130 now belonged to the people 708 00:35:44,130 --> 00:35:47,620 They were put on public display for everyone to admire, 709 00:35:47,620 --> 00:35:48,950 and added to the collection 710 00:35:48,950 --> 00:35:50,740 were confiscated works of art 711 00:35:50,740 --> 00:35:53,610 that had once belonged to the nobility and the clergy, 712 00:35:53,610 --> 00:35:56,140 as well as pieces from all over Europe 713 00:35:56,140 --> 00:35:59,060 that were the spoils of the Napoleonic Wars, 714 00:35:59,060 --> 00:36:01,730 such quantities of art had never been gathered 715 00:36:01,730 --> 00:36:03,210 in one place before. 716 00:36:03,210 --> 00:36:06,260 For the first time, the entire art history 717 00:36:06,260 --> 00:36:10,080 of the European continent was visible in one place. 718 00:36:10,080 --> 00:36:13,310 In 1804, when Napoleon I was crowned emperor, 719 00:36:13,310 --> 00:36:15,430 he also donated a work of art 720 00:36:15,430 --> 00:36:18,530 that had formerly hung in his bedroom, 721 00:36:18,530 --> 00:36:22,252 it was the Mona Lisa by Leonardo da Vinci. 722 00:36:22,252 --> 00:36:23,300 (uptempo whimsical music) 723 00:36:23,300 --> 00:36:26,410 The most famous painting of all time 724 00:36:26,410 --> 00:36:29,350 has lost none of its allure over the centuries, 725 00:36:29,350 --> 00:36:32,870 10 million people still come to the Louvre every year 726 00:36:32,870 --> 00:36:35,900 to see the Mona Lisa and no French president 727 00:36:35,900 --> 00:36:39,570 would dream of carrying her off to his private chambers 728 00:36:39,570 --> 00:36:40,653 the way Napoleon did. 729 00:36:41,620 --> 00:36:43,530 (uptempo traditional music) 730 00:36:43,530 --> 00:36:47,040 Napoleon now rests in the Dôme des Invalides, 731 00:36:47,040 --> 00:36:49,910 a monument built to last an eternity, 732 00:36:49,910 --> 00:36:52,380 but Paris' most famous modern landmark 733 00:36:52,380 --> 00:36:55,550 was never intended to remain in the city for that long. 734 00:36:55,550 --> 00:37:00,240 An iron tower was constructed to Mark the 1889 World's Fair, 735 00:37:00,240 --> 00:37:02,720 but it was supposed to be disassembled again 736 00:37:02,720 --> 00:37:03,970 after the event. 737 00:37:03,970 --> 00:37:08,080 At 300 meters, the Eiffel Tower was the tallest structure 738 00:37:08,080 --> 00:37:09,760 in the world at the time, 739 00:37:09,760 --> 00:37:13,073 few other structures in Europe have caused such controversy. 740 00:37:15,117 --> 00:37:18,367 (tense dramatic music) 741 00:37:23,060 --> 00:37:26,600 the 324-meter tall Eiffel Tower 742 00:37:26,600 --> 00:37:30,800 was actually built to mark the 1889 Paris Expo, 743 00:37:30,800 --> 00:37:33,590 in the simultaneous 100th anniversary 744 00:37:33,590 --> 00:37:35,060 of the French Revolution. 745 00:37:35,060 --> 00:37:38,050 After that, it was supposed to be dismantled. 746 00:37:38,050 --> 00:37:40,610 In fact, most Parisians at the time felt that the tower, 747 00:37:40,610 --> 00:37:43,710 which of course is today one of the city's major landmarks, 748 00:37:43,710 --> 00:37:45,770 was a steel eyesore. 749 00:37:45,770 --> 00:37:49,300 The author, Guy de Maupassant, who died in 1893, 750 00:37:49,300 --> 00:37:52,170 often dined in the tower restaurant, 751 00:37:52,170 --> 00:37:55,190 it was the only place in Paris where he wasn't forced 752 00:37:55,190 --> 00:37:57,130 to look at the tower, he said. 753 00:37:57,130 --> 00:37:59,670 Another World Expo was held in Paris in 1900. 754 00:37:59,670 --> 00:38:03,110 It became the major arena for the technological race 755 00:38:03,110 --> 00:38:05,660 that had kicked off with the Industrial Revolution, 756 00:38:06,544 --> 00:38:09,794 (tense dramatic music) 757 00:38:16,570 --> 00:38:20,570 The enormous glass roof of the Grand Palais Exposition Hall 758 00:38:20,570 --> 00:38:22,730 was revolutionary at the time. 759 00:38:22,730 --> 00:38:25,060 Incidentally 1900 was also the year 760 00:38:25,060 --> 00:38:27,223 the Paris Metro opened to the public. 761 00:38:29,290 --> 00:38:32,380 The Eiffel Tower is a powerful symbol of this era 762 00:38:32,380 --> 00:38:34,760 of confident modernity. 763 00:38:34,760 --> 00:38:36,420 The citizens of the French Republic 764 00:38:36,420 --> 00:38:39,270 read the names of their most important researchers, 765 00:38:39,270 --> 00:38:41,670 and inventors stamped in iron, 766 00:38:41,670 --> 00:38:44,160 and they saw themselves as the most progressive nation 767 00:38:44,160 --> 00:38:45,326 in Europe. 768 00:38:45,326 --> 00:38:48,576 (tense dramatic music) 769 00:38:50,460 --> 00:38:53,900 And indeed it was a Frenchmen named Denis Papin, 770 00:38:53,900 --> 00:38:55,960 who did much to explore the principles 771 00:38:55,960 --> 00:38:59,730 behind the steam powered engine back in 1690, 772 00:38:59,730 --> 00:39:02,750 but it wasn't until 74 years later 773 00:39:02,750 --> 00:39:04,750 that Scotsman, James Watt, 774 00:39:04,750 --> 00:39:07,980 found an efficient way of replacing the physical exertion 775 00:39:07,980 --> 00:39:10,660 of humans with steam power, 776 00:39:10,660 --> 00:39:13,190 Watts' invention was fundamental to the changes 777 00:39:13,190 --> 00:39:15,670 wrought by the Industrial Revolution. 778 00:39:15,670 --> 00:39:19,730 It was Watt incidentally who coined the term horsepower. 779 00:39:19,730 --> 00:39:23,453 The world was entering an era of unprecedented acceleration. 780 00:39:24,670 --> 00:39:26,430 Divining the mysteries of nature 781 00:39:26,430 --> 00:39:28,270 have been an integral facet 782 00:39:28,270 --> 00:39:30,720 of European culture since antiquity, 783 00:39:30,720 --> 00:39:35,070 but in great Britain in particular researchers and inventors 784 00:39:35,070 --> 00:39:37,780 found ways to put their new found knowledge 785 00:39:37,780 --> 00:39:40,140 to immediate practical use, 786 00:39:40,140 --> 00:39:44,125 and it all started with a mechanical weaving loom. 787 00:39:44,125 --> 00:39:48,010 (loom whirring) (tense dramatic music) 788 00:39:48,010 --> 00:39:49,680 Until the 18th century, 789 00:39:49,680 --> 00:39:52,190 the only way to increase production of goods 790 00:39:52,190 --> 00:39:54,480 was to employ more people. 791 00:39:54,480 --> 00:39:57,360 Now the physical labor of a single person 792 00:39:57,360 --> 00:40:01,220 could be multiplied exponentially, almost infinitely. 793 00:40:01,220 --> 00:40:03,270 This was the mechanism at the heart 794 00:40:03,270 --> 00:40:04,720 of the Industrial Revolution. 795 00:40:06,240 --> 00:40:08,850 It all started in England. 796 00:40:08,850 --> 00:40:12,250 Manchester grew into the most important industrial center 797 00:40:12,250 --> 00:40:13,570 in the world. 798 00:40:13,570 --> 00:40:15,870 The textile industry was mainly responsible 799 00:40:15,870 --> 00:40:17,300 for the city's boom. 800 00:40:17,300 --> 00:40:19,720 Manchester's population exploded, 801 00:40:19,720 --> 00:40:22,883 and magnificent buildings sprang up one after another. 802 00:40:24,970 --> 00:40:27,070 Manchester was dramatic enough, 803 00:40:27,070 --> 00:40:28,890 but it was just the beginning. 804 00:40:28,890 --> 00:40:30,810 With the rise of heavy industry, 805 00:40:30,810 --> 00:40:33,370 came the greatest shift in living standards, 806 00:40:33,370 --> 00:40:35,670 since human beings established settlements, 807 00:40:35,670 --> 00:40:36,813 and started farming. 808 00:40:37,651 --> 00:40:40,401 (metal clanking) 809 00:40:42,030 --> 00:40:44,280 Iron and steel foundries sprang up 810 00:40:44,280 --> 00:40:46,520 wherever there was iron ore or coal, 811 00:40:46,520 --> 00:40:49,620 the lower regions, Saarland and Silesia in Germany 812 00:40:49,620 --> 00:40:50,830 are good examples. 813 00:40:50,830 --> 00:40:52,410 And one of these iron works, 814 00:40:52,410 --> 00:40:54,960 the Volklingen Hutte has been named 815 00:40:54,960 --> 00:40:59,190 a UNESCO World Heritage Site, an important step, 816 00:40:59,190 --> 00:41:01,900 for the first time an iron foundry 817 00:41:01,900 --> 00:41:06,420 was placed on the same footing as cathedrals and pyramids, 818 00:41:06,420 --> 00:41:10,270 and in this place, you can still feel the incredible power 819 00:41:10,270 --> 00:41:12,070 of the Industrial Revolution. 820 00:41:12,070 --> 00:41:15,300 It was an historical turning point, not just for Europe, 821 00:41:15,300 --> 00:41:17,423 but for the entire world. 822 00:41:17,423 --> 00:41:19,830 (tense dramatic music) 823 00:41:19,830 --> 00:41:22,810 This is the only place where we can still see 824 00:41:22,810 --> 00:41:25,570 the blast furnaces that once fueled 825 00:41:25,570 --> 00:41:27,240 the Industrial Revolution. 826 00:41:27,240 --> 00:41:29,540 The Volklingen Ironworks in Germany 827 00:41:29,540 --> 00:41:31,740 just across the border from France 828 00:41:31,740 --> 00:41:35,280 is the world's only fully-preserved Ironworks 829 00:41:35,280 --> 00:41:37,920 from the golden age of the iron and steel industry 830 00:41:37,920 --> 00:41:40,660 in the 19th and 20th centuries. 831 00:41:40,660 --> 00:41:42,230 The history of this ironworks 832 00:41:42,230 --> 00:41:45,310 is also a piece of European history. 833 00:41:45,310 --> 00:41:46,950 Volklingen was situated 834 00:41:46,950 --> 00:41:49,660 on the once-troubled political boundary 835 00:41:49,660 --> 00:41:52,560 between Germany and France. 836 00:41:52,560 --> 00:41:56,220 The coal for the iron works came from the German Saarland, 837 00:41:56,220 --> 00:41:59,140 but certain types of iron ore could only be found 838 00:41:59,140 --> 00:42:02,760 just a few kilometers away in French Lorraine. 839 00:42:02,760 --> 00:42:05,180 In the 19th and 20th centuries, 840 00:42:05,180 --> 00:42:10,180 this strategic border land was repeatedly fought over. 841 00:42:10,180 --> 00:42:13,050 It was the need to overcome this bitter competition 842 00:42:13,050 --> 00:42:16,560 over strategic resources that led to the establishment 843 00:42:16,560 --> 00:42:19,160 of the European Coal and Steel Community 844 00:42:19,160 --> 00:42:21,550 shortly after the end of World War II, 845 00:42:21,550 --> 00:42:25,380 the first step towards the European community. 846 00:42:25,380 --> 00:42:29,820 Coal, iron, and steel, the building blocks of Europe, 847 00:42:29,820 --> 00:42:33,080 the colossal machines of Volklingen still bear witness 848 00:42:33,080 --> 00:42:34,463 to this history today. 849 00:42:38,800 --> 00:42:42,270 In the 1830s and '40s with the Industrial Revolution 850 00:42:42,270 --> 00:42:46,090 in full swing, urbanization, pollution, disease, 851 00:42:46,090 --> 00:42:50,090 and political unrest fueled an interest in green spaces. 852 00:42:50,090 --> 00:42:52,460 Reformers argued that urban gardens 853 00:42:52,460 --> 00:42:55,640 would beautify the landscape, sweep away disease, 854 00:42:55,640 --> 00:42:58,450 and refine working class tastes. 855 00:42:58,450 --> 00:43:00,730 In London, the Royal Botanical Gardens 856 00:43:00,730 --> 00:43:03,690 were opened to the public in 1840. 857 00:43:03,690 --> 00:43:07,200 Some years later, the striking Palm House was built, 858 00:43:07,200 --> 00:43:08,970 a result of improved glass 859 00:43:08,970 --> 00:43:11,333 and iron manufacturing techniques. 860 00:43:11,333 --> 00:43:12,580 (water flowing) 861 00:43:12,580 --> 00:43:13,810 Walking around this place, 862 00:43:13,810 --> 00:43:15,330 it's difficult not to be reminded 863 00:43:15,330 --> 00:43:16,830 of the biblical Garden of Eden 864 00:43:16,830 --> 00:43:19,240 where supposedly all the plants in the world 865 00:43:19,240 --> 00:43:20,380 were in one place. 866 00:43:20,380 --> 00:43:22,740 Is that part of the story of how gardens like this 867 00:43:22,740 --> 00:43:23,660 came to be? 868 00:43:23,660 --> 00:43:28,420 {\an8}Well, I think certainly Kew aims to have plants 869 00:43:28,420 --> 00:43:30,160 {\an8}from all around the world. 870 00:43:30,160 --> 00:43:32,950 {\an8}Wild plants, plants collected from wild places. 871 00:43:32,950 --> 00:43:35,480 I perhaps pick up upon a different story from the Bible, 872 00:43:35,480 --> 00:43:36,990 which is the concept of the ark, 873 00:43:36,990 --> 00:43:39,410 where the animals were led into a place of protection 874 00:43:39,410 --> 00:43:41,970 from the deluge, and one way of thinking about Kew, 875 00:43:41,970 --> 00:43:44,670 and the wild plant diversity we have here 876 00:43:44,670 --> 00:43:47,500 is as a precious ark bobbing around in a turbulent world, 877 00:43:47,500 --> 00:43:48,500 protecting these plants. 878 00:43:48,500 --> 00:43:50,520 Some of the plants in this building are extinct 879 00:43:50,520 --> 00:43:53,080 in the wild now, some of the projects that Kew works on 880 00:43:53,080 --> 00:43:56,900 about reintroducing plants back into their natural habitats, 881 00:43:56,900 --> 00:44:00,230 because of habitat degradation, or extinction in the wild. 882 00:44:00,230 --> 00:44:01,870 So perhaps an ark, I would rely upon 883 00:44:01,870 --> 00:44:04,640 as a better metaphor for the work that Kew does. 884 00:44:04,640 --> 00:44:05,473 (slow relaxing music) 885 00:44:05,473 --> 00:44:09,090 Nearly 180,000 living plants, 886 00:44:09,090 --> 00:44:12,100 including 1,300 threatened species 887 00:44:12,100 --> 00:44:15,210 can be found in the botanical collections of Kew Gardens, 888 00:44:15,210 --> 00:44:17,423 a UNESCO World Heritage Site. 889 00:44:18,860 --> 00:44:21,350 How are all these beautiful plants connected 890 00:44:21,350 --> 00:44:24,670 to the dark arts of Imperial expansion? 891 00:44:24,670 --> 00:44:26,750 The world's largest botanical garden 892 00:44:26,750 --> 00:44:30,050 also captures the essence of an entire era 893 00:44:30,050 --> 00:44:31,430 in the history of Europe. 894 00:44:31,430 --> 00:44:35,070 Knowledge was power, and power led to new knowledge. 895 00:44:35,070 --> 00:44:36,710 Already in the 18th century, 896 00:44:36,710 --> 00:44:40,340 Europeans were bringing plants back from their many colonies 897 00:44:40,340 --> 00:44:43,310 to the continent where they'd never been seen before. 898 00:44:43,310 --> 00:44:46,710 The plants were studied in great detail here at Kew Gardens, 899 00:44:46,710 --> 00:44:48,870 and similar locations around Europe, 900 00:44:48,870 --> 00:44:50,760 and the task of researchers 901 00:44:50,760 --> 00:44:53,400 was to discern their practical uses. 902 00:44:53,400 --> 00:44:55,880 One interesting example is the Cinchona, 903 00:44:55,880 --> 00:44:57,910 known colloquially as the fever tree, 904 00:44:57,910 --> 00:44:59,800 which is native to Peru. 905 00:44:59,800 --> 00:45:02,370 A substance can be extracted from its bark, 906 00:45:02,370 --> 00:45:05,260 which can be used to make a medicine to treat malaria, 907 00:45:05,260 --> 00:45:08,710 quinine, this medicine from a South American plant 908 00:45:08,710 --> 00:45:12,590 allowed the Europeans to make further inroads into Asia, 909 00:45:12,590 --> 00:45:14,690 and Africa, where malaria was endemic, 910 00:45:14,690 --> 00:45:17,120 and then knowledge of foreign plants, 911 00:45:17,120 --> 00:45:19,690 some of which were collected here in this greenhouse, 912 00:45:19,690 --> 00:45:22,350 lead to the farming of tea in Ceylon, 913 00:45:22,350 --> 00:45:24,113 and coffee and South America. 914 00:45:25,099 --> 00:45:27,780 (tense dramatic music) (birds chirping) 915 00:45:27,780 --> 00:45:28,760 Over the centuries. 916 00:45:28,760 --> 00:45:31,290 Kew Gardens has become an important center 917 00:45:31,290 --> 00:45:33,090 for botanical research. 918 00:45:33,090 --> 00:45:34,700 The fungarian, for example, 919 00:45:34,700 --> 00:45:39,640 contains an estimated 1.25 million dried specimens 920 00:45:39,640 --> 00:45:41,190 from every part of the globe, 921 00:45:41,190 --> 00:45:45,230 and reflects the importance of fungi as providers of food, 922 00:45:45,230 --> 00:45:49,120 medicines, enzymes and essential ecosystem services. 923 00:45:49,120 --> 00:45:51,810 The collection is the largest, and one of the oldest, 924 00:45:51,810 --> 00:45:54,663 and most scientifically important in the world. 925 00:45:55,848 --> 00:46:00,123 Because they go on bark. As they would. 926 00:46:00,123 --> 00:46:04,380 Ester, you are the queen of a world of fungi here at Kew. 927 00:46:04,380 --> 00:46:05,830 What is special about fungi? 928 00:46:05,830 --> 00:46:08,440 What makes them different from other living creatures. 929 00:46:08,440 --> 00:46:12,560 {\an8}Fungi are a very distinct group of organisms 930 00:46:12,560 --> 00:46:15,870 {\an8}completely apart from animals and plants, 931 00:46:15,870 --> 00:46:18,470 they have actually their own kingdom, kingdom fungi, 932 00:46:19,345 --> 00:46:23,173 and some of the main features that define them, 933 00:46:24,020 --> 00:46:27,570 and distinguish them from the animal and plant kingdoms 934 00:46:27,570 --> 00:46:32,070 are weird things, for example, 935 00:46:32,070 --> 00:46:34,240 how they digest foods, 936 00:46:34,240 --> 00:46:38,010 they secrete enzymes into the environment. 937 00:46:38,010 --> 00:46:40,960 They resolve the organic matter, 938 00:46:40,960 --> 00:46:43,223 and they absorb it back into their cells. 939 00:46:44,380 --> 00:46:48,060 Nobody else does something like that, it's quite strange, 940 00:46:48,060 --> 00:46:52,000 you don't have an external stomach digesting, 941 00:46:52,000 --> 00:46:54,663 that's what the fungi do. 942 00:46:54,663 --> 00:46:57,290 (tense dramatic music) 943 00:46:57,290 --> 00:46:59,600 And there is another fascinating place 944 00:46:59,600 --> 00:47:02,310 at Kew, the herbarium, 945 00:47:02,310 --> 00:47:05,130 it contains millions of preserved specimens, 946 00:47:05,130 --> 00:47:07,760 and enormous wealth of information for researchers 947 00:47:07,760 --> 00:47:09,320 all over the world. 948 00:47:09,320 --> 00:47:11,940 Plants that have been collected from all continents 949 00:47:11,940 --> 00:47:13,920 over the last 300 years, 950 00:47:13,920 --> 00:47:17,560 specimens that can be used to provide samples of DNA 951 00:47:17,560 --> 00:47:20,910 to study relationships, and evolutionary processes, 952 00:47:20,910 --> 00:47:24,830 among the oldest, a specimen sent from the Andes in Ecuador, 953 00:47:24,830 --> 00:47:27,473 by German naturalist, Alexander von Humboldt. 954 00:47:28,862 --> 00:47:32,112 (tense dramatic music) 955 00:47:35,900 --> 00:47:37,310 How many samples do you have altogether 956 00:47:37,310 --> 00:47:39,100 at the herbarium at Kew? 957 00:47:39,100 --> 00:47:41,350 {\an8}In the herbarium, we have about 7 million. 958 00:47:41,350 --> 00:47:43,460 {\an8}We don't know exactly how many we have, 959 00:47:43,460 --> 00:47:45,300 {\an8}we've never counted them, so it's a bit of a, 960 00:47:45,300 --> 00:47:47,610 {\an8}you know, estimate, but yeah, 961 00:47:47,610 --> 00:47:51,020 about 7 million and we collect them 962 00:47:51,020 --> 00:47:54,040 to understand plant diversity. 963 00:47:54,040 --> 00:47:57,010 So something that Kew is very good at doing is going out, 964 00:47:57,010 --> 00:48:01,760 finding endemic, or endangered, or very useful species, 965 00:48:01,760 --> 00:48:03,140 and getting their seeds, 966 00:48:03,140 --> 00:48:04,890 and putting the seeds in the seed bank. 967 00:48:04,890 --> 00:48:07,930 So we have an amazing seed bank down at Wakehurst Place, 968 00:48:07,930 --> 00:48:12,320 and that's sort of, you know, a bank too, 969 00:48:12,320 --> 00:48:14,480 that we can draw on to help put species 970 00:48:14,480 --> 00:48:16,021 back in the wild. 971 00:48:16,021 --> 00:48:19,440 (tense dramatic music) (birds chirping) 972 00:48:19,440 --> 00:48:22,310 But it's not only about the past, 973 00:48:22,310 --> 00:48:25,090 individual plants are preserved at Kew Gardens, 974 00:48:25,090 --> 00:48:28,393 so that future generations can study biodiversity. 975 00:48:31,290 --> 00:48:35,040 Allow me to introduce Encephalartos Woodii, 976 00:48:35,040 --> 00:48:36,730 the loneliest plant in the world. 977 00:48:36,730 --> 00:48:40,500 {\an8}It's been growing here in Kew Gardens since 1899. 978 00:48:40,500 --> 00:48:44,130 {\an8}It's a cycad, and originally comes from South Africa. 979 00:48:44,130 --> 00:48:47,240 {\an8}These plants died out long ago in their homeland, 980 00:48:47,240 --> 00:48:50,350 but this specimen here is one of the last in the world, 981 00:48:50,350 --> 00:48:51,770 a male plant, 982 00:48:51,770 --> 00:48:54,490 and this means a female plant must be found 983 00:48:54,490 --> 00:48:56,720 in order to keep this species alive. 984 00:48:56,720 --> 00:49:00,380 Unfortunately, despite searching far and wide, 985 00:49:00,380 --> 00:49:03,890 researchers have thus far been unable to find one. 986 00:49:03,890 --> 00:49:05,030 Luckily with proper care, 987 00:49:05,030 --> 00:49:07,990 these plants can live for a very long time, 988 00:49:07,990 --> 00:49:11,140 in the meanwhile experts at desperately continuing 989 00:49:11,140 --> 00:49:14,040 their search to find a girlfriend for this tree, 990 00:49:14,040 --> 00:49:17,130 and maybe one day his long years of solitude 991 00:49:17,130 --> 00:49:18,580 will come to an end, 992 00:49:18,580 --> 00:49:21,800 but one thing is clear, in the face of climate change, 993 00:49:21,800 --> 00:49:24,500 and ever deepening human encroachment 994 00:49:24,500 --> 00:49:26,020 into the natural world. 995 00:49:26,020 --> 00:49:29,140 Europe's botanical gardens are increasingly becoming 996 00:49:29,140 --> 00:49:33,220 treasure troves where visitors can admire species of plants 997 00:49:33,220 --> 00:49:35,560 that are extinct elsewhere, 998 00:49:35,560 --> 00:49:39,010 and that of course is more valuable than all the diamonds 999 00:49:39,010 --> 00:49:40,482 in the world. 1000 00:49:40,482 --> 00:49:45,482 (uptempo dramatic music) (birds chirping) 1001 00:49:46,010 --> 00:49:49,990 Europe is the second smallest continent on the planet. 1002 00:49:49,990 --> 00:49:53,740 It's really only a peninsula on the western end of Asia, 1003 00:49:53,740 --> 00:49:56,570 but Europe's diversity is unparalleled. 1004 00:49:56,570 --> 00:50:00,740 Its rich cultural heritage born out of a turbulent history, 1005 00:50:00,740 --> 00:50:02,950 belongs to the entire world, 1006 00:50:02,950 --> 00:50:05,600 and the Europeans bear the great responsibility 1007 00:50:05,600 --> 00:50:07,240 of tending to it, 1008 00:50:07,240 --> 00:50:10,410 but Europe's treasures are not just in the distant past. 1009 00:50:10,410 --> 00:50:14,040 A politically United Europe is a cultural heritage 1010 00:50:14,040 --> 00:50:15,410 in its own right. 1011 00:50:15,410 --> 00:50:17,210 One that must be protected, 1012 00:50:17,210 --> 00:50:20,234 and preserved for future generations. 1013 00:50:20,234 --> 00:50:23,484 (tense dramatic music) 1014 00:50:34,174 --> 00:50:37,591 (uptempo dramatic music) 80906

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