All language subtitles for How.Its.Made.S32E07.1080p.WEB.x264-Eng

An innerspring mattress

is made with steel-wire springs

to support
a person's body weight.

The quality of the mattress
is usually determined

by the thickness
of the steel wire,

the number of springs,

and how the springs
are configured and linked

to form the inner
support system.

Most of this innerspring
mattress is crafted by hand.

The material in between the
springs contains multiple layers

of batting made from a blend
of polyester fiber

and organic cotton fiber.

Cotton allows the batting
to be breathable,

so the mattress
won't trap body heat.

Polyester prevents
the cotton from matting,

so the batting
doesn't flatten over time.

This machine feeds both
materials to a carding machine.

At the first station,
rollers and cylinders

with metal teeth open
and comb out the fibers.

Next, the blended poly cotton

is formed into a thin,
fluffy sheet.

The next station
layers the sheet.

Rollers compress the layers
to form a thicker sheet

about 2 3/4 inches high.

The machine cuts the sheet
to the width and length

of the specified mattress.

A technician places
the finished bat on a scale

to ensure it hits
the target weight.

He piles 18 bats on a cart,

which is how many are required
for just one mattress.

Meanwhile, another technician

builds the mattress's
support structure,

known as the innerspring unit.

A coiling machine pulls
spring-steel wire off a spool,

then winds
and cuts it into coils.

The top and the bottom
of each coil are crimped,

creating inter-connection areas.

A technician inserts
spring-steel wire

into a lacing machine and places
a row of coils on a table.

As the machine advances,
the helical wire

catches the coils at the points
where they're crimped,

lacing them together.

The process is repeated until
the spring structure

is the size of the mattress.

The perimeter of the mattress is
framed with more helical wire.

He fabric surface of a mattress
is known as the ticking.

A seamstress marks
the required dimensions

on a stack of cotton fabric.

Using a rotary cutting blade,

she cuts the ticking fabric
along the marked dimensions.

A sewer hems the edges
of all three panels.

This step will strengthen
the connected seams.

He also sews on the labels
listing the product

and safety information.

The side wall consists
of four layers --

the ticking, two types of bats,
and a backing fabric.

A seamstress pulls the layers
through a stamping machine,

which fastens the layers
together with a pair

of brass eyelets
every 2 3/4 inches.

Using another stamping machine,

she attaches cord handles
with large brass grommets.

The handles make it easier
to flip and rotate

the mattress
to ensure even wear.

Another technician covers
the innerspring unit

with a lightweight fabric

and pads the corners with
batting to prevent indentation.

He attaches the fabric backing
of the side wall

to the wire perimeter
of the innerspring unit

with hog-ring staples.

He tops this side of
the mattress with nine bats,

equivalent to 27.5 inches
of padding.

He trims each bat by hand,

gradually narrowing the layers
as he works his way downward,

creating a tapered shape.

Then a polyester fabric layer
is added for comfort,

and a non-woven flame-resistant
barrier fabric layer on top.

The ticking
is put into position,

and the excess filling
is trimmed.

The technician pulls
the ticking and pins it

to the top of the side wall.

He flips the mattress

and repeats the process
on the other side.

Using an industrial
sewing machine,

he sews the top
and bottom tickings

to the side wall with edge tape.

Woven cotton ticking is more
durable than knitted cotton.

Finally, the automated machine
tufts the mattress and inserts

a woven band through the middle,

locking each tuft in place
with a pom-pom on both sides.

This prevents the materials
inside from shifting

and sets the level of firmness.

Stand-up paddling has become a popular sport,

but paddleboards have been
around for over 3,000 years.

Contemporary boards rely on
modern materials

to make light and reliable
paddleboards suited for leisure

as well as for competition.

This paddleboard is made
with vinyl-ester resin

and laminated fiberglass.

It's equipped with an onboard
lighting system, an anchor,

and a neoprene rubber
non-slip pad.

In the gel-coating room,

a technician wipes
a release agent

on the paddleboard mold to make
the surface smooth and clean.

Another technician positions
the fin channel on the mold

using a thin fiberglass
template as a guide.

He uses an airless pumping
system to spray the mold

with a vinyl-ester gel
coating mixed with hardener.

he takes a mil gauge to make
sure the hull thickness is even.

A technician prepares to make

the first structural layer
of the hull,

using a 3/4-ounce
bi-directional fiberglass mat.

First, he pulls out a panel
of fiberglass

and covers
the gel-coated surface.

Using fabric scissors,
he cuts the mat

and makes the fiberglass skin
as tight as possible.

He tears the mat to conform it

to the rounded shape
of the gel coat

and fits the mat
to the edge of the hull.

He applies vinyl-ester resin
with a paint roller.

The resin saturates
the fiberglass,

which merges
with the gel coating.

Extra material is placed
over the fin channel

to strength the structural bond

between the channel
and the hull.

Then the technician uses
a bubble roller

to push out air bubbles.

He applies a second coat
of fiberglass

to reinforce the structural
integrity of the board.

In the assembly room,

another technician fits
a template on the board deck

and traces the contours of the
hand-grab mount with a pencil.

He uses an air saw
to cut out a slot

in the fiberglass laminate
to fit the hand-grab mount.

he binds the hand-grab mount

to the hull with a coat
of vinyl-ester resin.

Within about 20 minutes,
the laminate hardens.

Next, plastic tubing for
the internal anchoring system

is installed.

A technician applies a bonding
adhesive to the tube,

securing it in place.

He attaches the tube
with tie wraps

so it doesn't get
tangled inside the hull.

He installs a jam cleat
for the rope that will allow

the paddler to manually control
the anchor from the deck.

the hull's cured
vinyl-ester resin

is now firmly bonded
to the structural laminate.

The assembler applies expanding
adhesive and positions

an expanded polypropylene foam
stringer inside the hull.

The foam stringers are
the backbone of the board.

They support the weight
of the paddler on the deck

while keeping the board
as light as possible.

Using a nylon wedge
and a rubber mallet,

the assembler removes
the mold from the hull.

Since the hull
is so lightweight,

two assemblers can lift
and flip it on to a cart.

An assembler trims off
the excess laminate

using an air cutter fitted
with a diamond cutting blade.

He levels the foam stringers
with a file blade,

ensuring the tightest possible
fit between the hull and deck.

He applies expanding foam
adhesive on the stringers

before he places
the deck on the foam

with the help of a co-worker.

The adhesive quickly binds
the parts together.

The vinyl rub rail designed
as a side protection

masks the joint between
the deck and the hull.

The hull contains
a dry storage hatch

where the onboard battery
is housed.

The 8 amp hour battery
can activate the power pull,

a microanchor designed
for shallow waters.

In deeper waters, a paddler
can manually activate

the internal anchor system
with a 16-foot nylon cord.

Finally, this board is ready
to hit the water.

narrator: Invented in 1901
by a british engineer,

the vacuum cleaner
was considered a game changer.

The original versions were made
substantially heavier

than the vacuums built today.

In fact, they were so large,
they had to be pulled by horses

to get from building
to building.

Through the magic
of suctioning power,

a vacuum cleaner can make
dirt disappear almost instantly,

really improving personal space.

Production starts with
the electric motor

that powers the suctioning fan.

A machine picks up a rotor

and transfers it
to an imaging system.

Using a camera and laser,
the machine measures the part

and confirms
that it's to specification.

Next, an automated system
attaches plastic discs

on to both sides of the part.

These plastic discs will serve
as electrical insulators.

A computerized camera
confirms the discs

have been correctly placed.

A carrier transfers the rotor
to the next station.

Here, a rotary copper switch
is placed on to the shaft.

The switch is called
a commutator.

Its role is to periodically
reverse the electrical current

as it flows through the motor,

allowing the motor to operate
more efficiently.

The next robot places the rotor
in a device that winds

thin copper wire around
the part hundreds of times.

These windings will be used
to create a rotating

magnetic field in the motor.

A welder joins the commutator
to the copper windings

using small hooks.

This step establishes
a connection.

A machine slides a slatted
plastic cover over the rotor.

The slats fit
in the rotor grooves.

The cover reduces the noise
the rotor makes as it revolves

at high speeds.

Spouts drip synthetic resin
on to the copper windings.

As it hardens, the resin
stabilizes the windings,

ensuring there
are no loose wires.

A computerized cutting tool
shaves off a small amount

of the commutator,
making it round and smooth.

A robot then deposits the rotor
on looped belts.

The belts spin the rotor,

and sensors detect vibrations
that indicate any imbalance.

If an imbalance is found,
the system sends the rotor over

to a tool that removes material
until the part is balanced.

Then it's over to another
testing machine.

This one probes the copper
windings to detect failures

using a complex
measuring system.

A mechanized system installs
a substantial bearing

on one end of the shaft.

A robot retrieves it, flips it,

and the system attaches
a bearing to the other end.

The motor housing with
the stator moves into position.

A machine places the rotor
in the center of the stator.

All the work on this
vacuum cleaner motor

has been done by machines.

Now a technician installs
a carbon brush

that will make electrical
contact with the rotor.

A diffuser shield is placed
on the housing.

Meanwhile, the computer system
screws the diffuser

to the motor assembly.

A small metal spacer
is deposited

on the protruding rotor shaft.

A robotic arm places
the lower fan impeller plate

over the shaft.

The mechanized system screws
the assembly together,

and then the upper part
is installed

with the suctioning fan blades.

A machine spins the fan
to test it for any imbalances.

Then a cutting tool
removes material

to calibrate the fan assembly.

A steel cover is flipped
into position by a platform

which elevates
the fan and motor assembly.

Stay tuned.

There's more dirt on how
the rest of the vacuum cleaner

comes together.

narrator: While the vacuum
cleaner may alarm your pet,

to an enthusiastic cleaner,
this is an awesome machine.

Not only does it remove
the dirt you can see,

it suctions up fine particles
that aren't visible,

leaving your home
even cleaner than it looks.

Inside every vacuum cleaner,

there's a high-speed
suctioning fan.

Machines test the fan
for quality control.

A conveyor delivers the fan to
a completely mechanized system

that evaluates the interaction

between the carbon brush
and the rotor.

This final inspection ensures
the vacuum fan

is balanced
and fully operational.

a technician applies
a rubber seal

to the rim of the vacuum's
lower housing.

He inserts the power-supply reel
in a hollowed-out compartment.

The fan is installed

and connected
to the power-supply reel.

He snaps the back panel
to the lower housing.

The power-supply cable
is plugged in for a later check.

The next component assembled
is the control panel.

A technician screws the control
panel to a mounting plate.

A rubber bumper is placed along
the edge of the cover frame.

The cover frame is then
transferred to the vacuum.

A dust bag is attached
to a bracket

that straddles the frame.

At the next station,
a robotic system stabilizes

the assembly and attaches
the frame to the housing.

Then the vacuum cleaner
is released from the machine,

and the carrier takes it forward
for an inspection.

An inspector installs foot
switches for the power cord

and for machine activation.

He tucks a filter into its slot.

The cover panel now arrives
via conveyor.

The technician snaps it
into place on the cover frame.

He installs a hinged
access panel,

which houses the suction tools
until needed.

This is the final step
to complete the assembly

of this vacuum cleaner.

Another kind of vacuum cleaner
uses easy-to-empty

plastic canisters
for dirt collection.

It uses a substantial filter
to separate dirt from the air.

Suctioned air and dirt spin
within this canister.

Larger dirt particles fall
to the bottom,

while finer particles
become embedded in the filter.

A technician installs
the filter canister

in the vacuum-cleaner
housing and inserts

a nozzle accessory in a slot.

Down the line, another worker
installs a top plate.

Next, a clear plastic
interceptor is installed,

which collects
the majority of the dirt.

The technician apples
a plastic bumper

to the back of the vacuum.

With the assembly complete,
this bagless vacuum cleaner

heads towards
the inspection station.

Both kinds of vacuum cleaners
undergo final testing.

A robot plugs the opening
for the hose,

turns the power on,
and tests every function

while a computer
measures its performance.

Cleared for retail,
the robot removes the hose.

The vacuum cleaner heads
toward the packaging line.

A robot lifts and carries
the vacuum cleaner,

stopping above a vacuum cleaner
that's already on the conveyor.

The vacuum on the conveyor
moves forward,

and sensors signal the robot
to set the second vacuum down.

The vacuum cleaner moves
along the conveyor belt

into a sheet of plastic wrap,
which envelops the product.

Heated knives cut and seal
the ends in one action.

This protects it
from superficial scratches

during transport.

A technician uses
molded pieces of foam

to slide the vacuum
into a cardboard box.

The foam pieces remain
in the box

to stabilize the vacuum
during transport.

Equipped with either a bag
or a plastic receptacle,

the technology is all up
to the consumer's preference.

Regardless of the model,
each type of vacuum

can make dust bunnies
stuck in the corners of rooms

and under beds
vanish before your eyes.