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1
00:00:03,744 --> 00:00:04,959
'In the hearts of us Brits.
2
00:00:06,023 --> 00:00:09,279
'Every year, three million of us
head there for our holidays,
3
00:00:09,304 --> 00:00:11,798
'and it's easy to see why.'
4
00:00:11,823 --> 00:00:14,569
This is Greece. Look at that!
5
00:00:14,594 --> 00:00:16,798
'I have a strong affinity
with the islands -
6
00:00:16,823 --> 00:00:18,279
'my mum is Greek...
7
00:00:19,744 --> 00:00:22,359
'..although she despairs
that I still can't speak the lingo.'
8
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SPEAKS GREEK
9
00:00:23,984 --> 00:00:25,079
CORRECTS HER
10
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I'm proud of my Greek heritage,
my Greekness.
11
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Look at my nose.
12
00:00:30,134 --> 00:00:33,359
Look at my nose.
THEY GIGGLE
13
00:00:33,384 --> 00:00:35,029
'But I've only holidayed here,
14
00:00:35,054 --> 00:00:38,719
'and I've never really explored
beyond the tourist trail.'
15
00:00:38,744 --> 00:00:40,109
Here we go.
16
00:00:40,134 --> 00:00:41,748
'Until now.
17
00:00:41,773 --> 00:00:44,159
'I'm going to see the hidden side.'
18
00:00:44,184 --> 00:00:46,469
Wow, it's so beautiful.
19
00:00:46,494 --> 00:00:49,798
Hello, everybody!
Look at it, it's so lush!
20
00:00:49,823 --> 00:00:53,159
'From the historical
and rugged terrain of Crete...'
21
00:00:53,184 --> 00:00:54,928
Ah, I think I've pulled!
22
00:00:54,953 --> 00:00:55,998
Ya mas.
23
00:00:56,023 --> 00:00:58,519
'..To the glamour
of a sunset in Santorini.'
24
00:00:58,544 --> 00:01:01,798
Isn't it gorgeous?
Thank you. Oh, look.
25
00:01:01,823 --> 00:01:04,519
'But, I'll also be taking in
the lesser known islands,
26
00:01:04,544 --> 00:01:07,469
'from the architectural splendour
of Symi,
27
00:01:07,494 --> 00:01:10,209
'to the natural wonder of Skopelos.'
28
00:01:10,234 --> 00:01:13,469
It makes me proud
to be just that little bit Greek.
29
00:01:13,494 --> 00:01:15,668
'Before ending my journey
on the island
30
00:01:15,693 --> 00:01:18,569
'where my family's story
first began.'
31
00:01:18,594 --> 00:01:22,239
This is a voyage of discovery,
and I'm taking you with me.
32
00:01:36,744 --> 00:01:38,389
Crete is the largest
of the Greek islands,
33
00:01:38,414 --> 00:01:39,918
and I've been here before, walking.
34
00:01:39,943 --> 00:01:42,389
People flock for the gorgeous
white sandy beaches
35
00:01:42,414 --> 00:01:44,079
and the abundance of ancient ruins.
36
00:01:45,304 --> 00:01:47,599
'It marks the start of my travels
37
00:01:47,624 --> 00:01:50,639
'around nine of the most
varied of the Greek Islands,
38
00:01:50,664 --> 00:01:54,239
'towards my journey's end,
back home in Chios.
39
00:01:54,264 --> 00:01:57,209
'And where better to begin,
given that it's the most popular
40
00:01:57,234 --> 00:01:59,439
'of the islands
with British holidaymakers?
41
00:01:59,464 --> 00:02:02,279
'But there is so much more to Crete
than meets the eye.'
42
00:02:03,664 --> 00:02:06,959
To discover the real Crete,
you need to head inland.
43
00:02:08,624 --> 00:02:10,918
'Known as
the rustic and rugged island,
44
00:02:10,943 --> 00:02:14,897
'Crete's vast interior
is dominated by epic mountain ranges
45
00:02:14,922 --> 00:02:18,490
'that reach 8,000 feet
over sea level.
46
00:02:18,515 --> 00:02:23,210
'And it's home to the Samaria Gorge,
Europe's longest and deepest canyon.
47
00:02:26,845 --> 00:02:31,050
'And the natural beauty
is matched by its rich history.
48
00:02:31,075 --> 00:02:33,610
'Crete is full of ancient treasures
and mythic sites,
49
00:02:33,635 --> 00:02:35,490
'like the Palace of Knossos.
50
00:02:35,515 --> 00:02:38,969
'In fact, history is at the centre
of everything here.'
51
00:02:38,994 --> 00:02:41,330
Crete's an enormous island.
52
00:02:41,355 --> 00:02:43,540
I've done a little bit of walking,
but...
53
00:02:43,565 --> 00:02:46,050
I'm cheating a bit today.
I've got myself a lift.
54
00:02:47,845 --> 00:02:49,440
Jay-
Hi, Julia.
55
00:02:49,465 --> 00:02:50,969
Hello, hello, how are you?
Good.
56
00:02:52,385 --> 00:02:54,639
'I'm half Greek,
but even I'm going to need a guide,
57
00:02:54,664 --> 00:02:56,969
'who can not only
navigate the toughest of terrain,
58
00:02:56,994 --> 00:02:58,639
'but the language, too.'
59
00:02:58,664 --> 00:02:59,769
Right.
60
00:03:01,275 --> 00:03:03,250
Vane vane, as they say.
Vane vane!
61
00:03:03,275 --> 00:03:06,690
'As we're going well and truly
off the beaten track.'
62
00:03:11,715 --> 00:03:16,000
'Jay swapped Manchester for Crete
over 20 years ago.
63
00:03:17,305 --> 00:03:20,050
'He's taking me out from the resort
of Malia, in eastern Crete,
64
00:03:20,075 --> 00:03:22,719
'to go off-road
in the Dikti Mountains.'
65
00:03:27,275 --> 00:03:29,130
So, what am I going to see today?
66
00:03:29,155 --> 00:03:32,360
Well, from here now, we're going
to head up into the mountains.
67
00:03:32,385 --> 00:03:35,639
We're going to get to an altitude
of about 1,200 metres,
68
00:03:35,664 --> 00:03:37,969
so on par with Ben Nevis
back in the UK.
69
00:03:37,994 --> 00:03:40,889
My ears will be popping a bit, then?
They might be, possibly.
70
00:03:40,914 --> 00:03:44,610
We're going to get chance
to see the true Cretans.
71
00:03:47,715 --> 00:03:49,639
'Crete is one of
the few Greek islands
72
00:03:49,664 --> 00:03:51,849
'that can support itself
independently
73
00:03:51,874 --> 00:03:54,610
'with most rural people
producing fruit and vegetables,
74
00:03:54,635 --> 00:03:56,460
'or breeding sheep and goats.
75
00:03:59,635 --> 00:04:01,490
'We are stopping
at the Lasithi Plateau,
76
00:04:01,515 --> 00:04:04,000
'renowned for its
exceptional produce,
77
00:04:04,025 --> 00:04:07,250
'and it's known by the locals
as the Plateau of Windmills.'
78
00:04:08,485 --> 00:04:14,250
Up until the '50s, there was over
10,000 of these water windmills,
79
00:04:14,275 --> 00:04:17,130
which span the whole plateau.
80
00:04:18,715 --> 00:04:21,719
'After their introduction
in the early 20th century,
81
00:04:21,744 --> 00:04:26,360
'these windmills transformed
Crete's agricultural landscape.'
82
00:04:26,385 --> 00:04:28,889
This is the most fertile place
on Crete.
83
00:04:28,914 --> 00:04:31,080
What would happen,
the cloth sails would spin,
84
00:04:31,105 --> 00:04:34,330
it would bore down,
nine metres to the water level.
85
00:04:34,355 --> 00:04:36,250
Are you familiar
with Archimedes' screw?
86
00:04:36,275 --> 00:04:39,210
Of course, another good Greek.
That corkscrews the water up,
87
00:04:39,235 --> 00:04:40,849
and that would
irrigate all the fields.
88
00:04:40,874 --> 00:04:45,130
Now a lot of farmers
are re-renovating the old windmills.
89
00:04:45,155 --> 00:04:47,690
We're going to try and get it back
to what it used to be,
90
00:04:47,715 --> 00:04:50,460
which was the oldest eco-park
in the world.
91
00:04:50,485 --> 00:04:53,460
Amazing! I love that.
92
00:04:53,485 --> 00:04:54,889
So, yeah, just give it a pull...
OK.
93
00:04:54,914 --> 00:04:56,820
...and you can find
where it attracts to the wind.
94
00:04:56,845 --> 00:04:58,570
Right, OK, let's find that.
95
00:04:58,595 --> 00:05:01,460
Where is it?
That's it, perfect.
96
00:05:01,485 --> 00:05:02,920
Clever, the old Greeks, aren't they?
97
00:05:11,664 --> 00:05:15,460
What's this here? Look at that.
There's a man with his van, look.
98
00:05:15,485 --> 00:05:16,969
Hey, he's brilliant.
99
00:05:16,994 --> 00:05:19,800
That's the village shop.
I love that, a shop on the move!
100
00:05:21,305 --> 00:05:23,920
What you'll find throughout today
101
00:05:23,945 --> 00:05:27,170
is that they are Cretan first,
then they are Greeks. Right.
102
00:05:27,195 --> 00:05:29,330
So, what makes a Cretan a Cretan?
103
00:05:29,355 --> 00:05:31,969
They are just so welcoming and warm.
104
00:05:31,994 --> 00:05:34,690
We have a cultural word here
called filoxenia.
105
00:05:34,715 --> 00:05:35,769
Filoxenia!
106
00:05:35,794 --> 00:05:38,820
If we stopped at someone's house
now, they would feed you,
107
00:05:38,845 --> 00:05:42,610
they'd welcome you with open arms.
Absolutely beautiful people.
108
00:05:45,305 --> 00:05:49,250
'We are now climbing high up
into the dusty Dikti Mountains.
109
00:05:49,275 --> 00:05:51,889
'This is the Cretan wilderness.
110
00:05:53,155 --> 00:05:56,170
'Home to griffon vultures
and golden eagles
111
00:05:56,195 --> 00:05:57,769
'and mountain goats.'
112
00:05:59,025 --> 00:06:00,769
Ooh, don't drive over the edge.
113
00:06:03,385 --> 00:06:05,769
'Jay has brought me here
to meet Giannis,
114
00:06:05,794 --> 00:06:09,210
'a local shepherd whose family
have been farming sheep and goats
115
00:06:09,235 --> 00:06:10,769
'at the top of this mountain
for decades.
116
00:06:12,635 --> 00:06:14,330
'You don't get more rustic
than this.'
117
00:06:15,385 --> 00:06:17,280
Hello.
Yassou, Giannis. Kalimera.
118
00:06:17,305 --> 00:06:19,080
Yassou.
119
00:06:19,105 --> 00:06:20,330
Julia.
120
00:06:22,794 --> 00:06:26,410
That's as far as I go.
So, this is where you live?
121
00:06:26,435 --> 00:06:28,610
SPEAKS GREEK
122
00:06:28,635 --> 00:06:30,849
So, he's originally from
Kastamonista, the village...
123
00:06:30,874 --> 00:06:32,280
Yeah.
..and what happens is,
124
00:06:32,305 --> 00:06:35,560
he brings all the goats up
the mountain for the whole summer.
125
00:06:35,585 --> 00:06:36,690
SPEAKS GREEK
126
00:06:36,715 --> 00:06:39,560
They bring them here,
and this is where they get milked,
127
00:06:39,585 --> 00:06:41,360
and this is where
the cheese is made.
128
00:06:44,585 --> 00:06:48,810
His grandad, his dad and him.
OK, so generation after...
129
00:06:48,835 --> 00:06:50,280
Three or four generations.
130
00:06:50,305 --> 00:06:51,639
Can I ask, why the hairnet?
131
00:06:54,555 --> 00:06:56,719
Part of the traditional Cretan dress
as well.
132
00:06:56,744 --> 00:06:59,800
Traditional black boots.
Yes. Oh, I like those.
133
00:07:01,385 --> 00:07:04,000
OK, let's go and see
some cheese being made. Ela.
134
00:07:06,635 --> 00:07:09,130
'This little hut
is where the magic happens,
135
00:07:09,155 --> 00:07:11,330
'where Giannis transforms
goat's milk
136
00:07:11,355 --> 00:07:14,460
'into a Cretan cheese
called mizithra.'
137
00:07:14,485 --> 00:07:16,849
So, what's going on in here?
138
00:07:19,305 --> 00:07:20,350
Salt.
139
00:07:21,455 --> 00:07:23,580
Underneath here, we've got the fire.
140
00:07:26,605 --> 00:07:28,909
He wants it hotter. Hotter, hotter.
141
00:07:29,934 --> 00:07:31,180
You can feel the heat now.
142
00:07:32,814 --> 00:07:36,300
He is now separating
the curds from the whey.
143
00:07:36,325 --> 00:07:38,659
He has to get it
into decent-sized portions
144
00:07:38,684 --> 00:07:42,909
to then transfer it
into whatever mould he's making.
145
00:07:42,934 --> 00:07:45,270
He gets as much out as he can
with his hand,
146
00:07:45,295 --> 00:07:46,909
he'll then force it out.
147
00:07:46,934 --> 00:07:49,460
Look at the smile on his face.
He loves it.
148
00:07:51,894 --> 00:07:53,510
Can I have a go?
Yeah.
149
00:07:53,535 --> 00:07:54,869
Giannis.
150
00:07:54,894 --> 00:07:56,190
What do I do? Squash it down?
151
00:07:56,215 --> 00:07:59,100
Squash it down.
Try and do it with your arms.
152
00:07:59,125 --> 00:08:02,630
That is not the texture
I was expecting.
153
00:08:02,655 --> 00:08:04,789
It's quite rubbery.
154
00:08:04,814 --> 00:08:06,760
It's like my kids' play dough.
155
00:08:07,814 --> 00:08:08,789
Oh, that's good.
156
00:08:09,855 --> 00:08:11,190
A little taste.
157
00:08:14,575 --> 00:08:15,940
Mmm.
158
00:08:15,965 --> 00:08:18,430
Such a mild taste, yeah.
159
00:08:18,455 --> 00:08:20,580
Mmm, fresh as you like.
160
00:08:22,735 --> 00:08:24,820
Eating your curds and whey.
That's it.
161
00:08:27,735 --> 00:08:31,380
'Over the summer, Giannis says
he makes about 25 cheeses a day.
162
00:08:31,405 --> 00:08:34,270
'That's a whopping 3,000 a year.
163
00:08:34,295 --> 00:08:36,580
'He sells some of them straightaway
to the local shops
164
00:08:36,605 --> 00:08:40,300
'for about ten or 15 euros a kilo,
and he leaves the rest to mature.'
165
00:08:41,575 --> 00:08:43,710
This is the hard cheese?
This is the hard cheese.
166
00:08:43,735 --> 00:08:44,940
So, you just let that mature?
167
00:08:44,965 --> 00:08:48,020
Two or three months
left just on a wooden shelf.
168
00:08:48,045 --> 00:08:49,300
Then it becomes like this...
169
00:08:49,325 --> 00:08:52,150
Then it becomes that...
Parmesan, Cheddar,
170
00:08:52,175 --> 00:08:54,630
really good for pasta sauces.
And what have we got here?
171
00:08:54,655 --> 00:08:58,070
This is Raki,
a traditional Cretan drink. Ya mas.
172
00:08:58,095 --> 00:08:59,739
Everybody drinks Raki.
173
00:09:01,965 --> 00:09:03,300
Oh, that's pure.
Beautiful.
174
00:09:03,325 --> 00:09:06,430
And with a bit of cheese.
A bit of cheese, perfect.
175
00:09:06,455 --> 00:09:09,630
There's nothing
that can't be cured from Raki.
176
00:09:09,655 --> 00:09:10,989
Very good.
177
00:09:12,405 --> 00:09:13,710
Ya mas.
178
00:09:17,814 --> 00:09:20,710
Right, dancing on the tables next.
Oh, Lord.
179
00:09:21,764 --> 00:09:24,550
Nothing that can't be cured
with Raki, apart from drunkenness.
180
00:09:24,575 --> 00:09:26,470
You can't cure drunkenness
with Raki.
181
00:09:26,495 --> 00:09:27,659
Ya mas.
182
00:09:28,814 --> 00:09:29,859
Ya mas!
183
00:09:31,965 --> 00:09:34,300
Look at this man.
I love this man, look at that face.
184
00:09:34,325 --> 00:09:37,100
Oh! I think I've pulled.
Steady on.
185
00:09:41,655 --> 00:09:43,150
'Two Rakis are my limit,
186
00:09:43,175 --> 00:09:46,350
'so best to head back down
the mountain towards the coast now.
187
00:09:48,014 --> 00:09:50,150
'But on the way,
there's a piece of history
188
00:09:50,175 --> 00:09:52,350
'that I have to tread on.
189
00:09:52,375 --> 00:09:55,510
'The Minoans, one of the oldest
civilisations in Europe,
190
00:09:55,535 --> 00:09:58,220
'originated here
on the island of Crete.
191
00:09:58,245 --> 00:10:02,470
'Signs of their innovation can
still be seen all over the place.'
192
00:10:02,495 --> 00:10:06,270
This is the Minoan Path built
by the Minoans 4,000 years ago.
193
00:10:06,295 --> 00:10:10,270
Look, you can see the fortification
of the road along the side.
194
00:10:10,295 --> 00:10:14,220
It's a cracking bit of architecture.
And it's still here.
195
00:10:14,245 --> 00:10:18,739
I had to just jump out
and put my feet on here.
196
00:10:23,295 --> 00:10:25,659
'Who knows, I might even
be treading the same path
197
00:10:25,684 --> 00:10:29,830
'as the mighty Theseus did when he
came to Crete to slay the Minotaur.
198
00:10:37,295 --> 00:10:38,760
'And it's the Minoans themselves,
199
00:10:38,785 --> 00:10:40,989
'who are leading me
back down to the coast,
200
00:10:41,014 --> 00:10:43,909
'to the historic town of Rethymno,
one of the first settlements.'
201
00:10:46,245 --> 00:10:48,859
It's very easy to get lost
in the maze
202
00:10:48,884 --> 00:10:50,830
of beautiful
little cobbled streets here.
203
00:10:50,855 --> 00:10:53,940
'The Roman and Ottoman Empires
left their mark,
204
00:10:53,965 --> 00:10:56,150
'so it's no surprise
that it's home
205
00:10:56,175 --> 00:10:58,940
'to some of the most time-honoured
and age-old traditions.
206
00:11:00,175 --> 00:11:02,989
'One of the oldest
is one of my favourites.'
207
00:11:03,014 --> 00:11:04,830
This is baklava.
208
00:11:04,855 --> 00:11:10,380
Filo pastry, dripping in honey,
smothered in nuts.
209
00:11:10,405 --> 00:11:13,500
Utterly delicious
and quite calorific.
210
00:11:13,525 --> 00:11:16,350
The Greeks and the Turks have had
some disagreements over the years,
211
00:11:16,375 --> 00:11:19,109
but you might not have heard
of the Baklava Conflict.
212
00:11:19,134 --> 00:11:22,659
Essentially, the Turks claim
the baklava began with them
213
00:11:22,684 --> 00:11:24,859
and the Greeks claim the same.
214
00:11:24,884 --> 00:11:27,989
Whoever is right,
it's just to die for.
215
00:11:30,735 --> 00:11:33,570
'When I was young, my mamamoo
used to make heaps of dishes
216
00:11:33,595 --> 00:11:37,830
'with filo pastry,
including spanakopita, spinach pie.
217
00:11:37,855 --> 00:11:39,909
'And I can't get enough of it.
218
00:11:39,934 --> 00:11:43,529
'I've heard tales of a living legend
hidden in these backstreets -
219
00:11:43,554 --> 00:11:47,079
'the last traditional
filo pastry master in Crete.
220
00:11:48,224 --> 00:11:51,049
'Yiorgos Hatziparaskos. What?!
221
00:11:51,074 --> 00:11:53,359
'Try saying that
with a mouthful of baklava.'
222
00:11:53,384 --> 00:11:55,359
So, this is the magic flour.
223
00:11:56,944 --> 00:11:58,768
This is, sort of,
224
00:11:58,793 --> 00:12:02,689
a large pizza-sized shape
of the filo pastry.
225
00:12:02,714 --> 00:12:06,999
But it's about to become much,
much larger at the hands of Yiorgos.
226
00:12:09,224 --> 00:12:13,409
'Yiorgos has been honing his art
for over 75 years.'
227
00:12:13,434 --> 00:12:15,409
How old are you?
228
00:12:17,384 --> 00:12:19,968
'He's keeping alive
an age-old technique
229
00:12:19,993 --> 00:12:23,559
'that's gone largely unchanged
since the time of Homer's Odyssey.'
230
00:12:23,584 --> 00:12:28,718
I desperately want to touch it,
but I'm... restraining myself.
231
00:12:31,714 --> 00:12:33,249
'Today, he's helped by his son.'
232
00:12:34,793 --> 00:12:37,169
Do you think you're as good
as your papa yet?
233
00:12:37,194 --> 00:12:39,049
Not yet. Nearly?
234
00:12:44,224 --> 00:12:46,119
Look at that, look at the skill.
235
00:12:47,274 --> 00:12:48,638
This keeps you fit.
236
00:12:48,663 --> 00:12:51,409
'His aim
is to get the pastry ultra thin,
237
00:12:51,434 --> 00:12:55,249
'so Yiorgos is tossing and spinning
the dough to stretch it out.
238
00:12:55,274 --> 00:12:57,629
'Then, his party trick.'
239
00:13:00,504 --> 00:13:03,199
Wow! It's so beautiful.
240
00:13:03,224 --> 00:13:06,479
'This man
really is a pastry magician.'
241
00:13:06,504 --> 00:13:08,689
So, what is the secret?
242
00:13:25,428 --> 00:13:28,723
So this is a real art.
243
00:13:28,748 --> 00:13:31,273
It's so lovely to watch.
244
00:13:32,708 --> 00:13:37,273
This is how thin
the filo pastry becomes.
245
00:13:37,298 --> 00:13:38,962
It's like a fine tissue.
246
00:13:40,468 --> 00:13:42,353
Listen to that.
RUFFLES GENTLY
247
00:13:44,657 --> 00:13:46,163
Look how delicate that is.
248
00:13:48,348 --> 00:13:50,073
That is an art, come on.
249
00:13:53,298 --> 00:13:55,712
'The word filo translates as leaf,
250
00:13:55,737 --> 00:13:59,962
'and it takes many leaves of this
ultra fine pastry to make baklava.'
251
00:14:01,548 --> 00:14:02,882
The moment of truth.
252
00:14:05,068 --> 00:14:06,443
Mmm.
253
00:14:06,468 --> 00:14:11,603
That really is so special.
Like crispy tissues.
254
00:14:11,628 --> 00:14:15,243
'Sweet tissues. It's like tasting
a piece of Greek history.'
255
00:14:18,018 --> 00:14:20,632
'And I'm about to discover
more of Crete's past
256
00:14:20,657 --> 00:14:23,683
'when I visit the atmospheric island
of Spinalonga,
257
00:14:23,708 --> 00:14:25,793
'an island with a story.'
258
00:14:31,668 --> 00:14:35,053
'I'm in Crete, the largest
of the 6,000 Greek islands.
259
00:14:37,028 --> 00:14:41,612
'Each year, two million tourists
flock to its 650 miles of coastline,
260
00:14:41,637 --> 00:14:44,083
'and descend upon
the seaside hotspots,
261
00:14:44,108 --> 00:14:46,562
'such as Agios Nikoslaos
and Phalasarna.
262
00:14:49,108 --> 00:14:52,362
'I've left behind the rugged
landscapes of the Dikti Mountains,
263
00:14:52,387 --> 00:14:55,612
'and headed west
to the coastal town of Rethymno.
264
00:14:57,558 --> 00:15:01,482
'This ancient port is a magnet
for artists and artisans.
265
00:15:01,507 --> 00:15:04,843
'It's brimmed full
of authentic artefacts and curios.
266
00:15:06,308 --> 00:15:07,923
'Like a lyra.
267
00:15:07,948 --> 00:15:10,643
'The Cretan lyra
is a legendary instrument
268
00:15:10,668 --> 00:15:14,203
'unique to this island,
that pre-dates the violin.
269
00:15:14,228 --> 00:15:18,083
'And to this day, the sound of
the lyra is the soundtrack of Crete.
270
00:15:20,918 --> 00:15:24,442
'And here in the town
resides one of its master makers.'
271
00:15:25,798 --> 00:15:29,003
Nikos. Hello! Hi, how are you?
272
00:15:29,028 --> 00:15:31,283
'Nikos is a bit of a Greek God,
isn't he?
273
00:15:31,308 --> 00:15:33,482
'He was taught by his father
274
00:15:33,507 --> 00:15:36,053
'and he's been making Cretan lyra
since he was a child.
275
00:15:36,078 --> 00:15:39,723
'Today, his lyra
sell for up to 1,000 euros each.'
276
00:15:41,148 --> 00:15:43,362
How long does it take
to make a lyra?
277
00:15:43,387 --> 00:15:46,173
You need almost 100 hours.
100 hours?
278
00:15:46,198 --> 00:15:48,553
Yes, it's more than ten days
of work.
279
00:15:48,578 --> 00:15:52,253
That is really incredible.
Exactly. You have three parts, OK?
280
00:15:52,278 --> 00:15:54,893
The backsid,e we use one piece.
281
00:15:54,918 --> 00:15:59,612
We use the front and the tie, OK?
Yeah.
282
00:15:59,637 --> 00:16:03,173
This work is always
work with your mind.
283
00:16:03,198 --> 00:16:06,923
The thing is that you always need
your heart, because it's a passion.
284
00:16:06,948 --> 00:16:11,812
How important is this music
to Crete, to Cretans?
285
00:16:11,837 --> 00:16:16,253
The music is inside... inside us.
286
00:16:16,278 --> 00:16:20,442
We love it so much, we can speak
with music for everything.
287
00:16:21,868 --> 00:16:23,413
So, music is your language?
288
00:16:23,438 --> 00:16:25,893
I think for all the people.
Would you like to hear it?
289
00:16:25,918 --> 00:16:28,053
I'd love to hear.
Of course I want to hear it.
290
00:16:28,078 --> 00:16:30,482
VIOLIN-LIKE SOUND
291
00:16:33,308 --> 00:16:36,123
PLAYS MELODY
292
00:16:36,148 --> 00:16:38,003
SLIDES NOTES
AND PLAYS HARMONICS
293
00:16:59,358 --> 00:17:01,283
Bravo!
294
00:17:01,308 --> 00:17:03,562
I don't know if I fell in love
with the lyra or Nikos then.
295
00:17:03,587 --> 00:17:04,973
THEY LAUGH
296
00:17:04,998 --> 00:17:07,453
'Before I wrench myself away
from Nikos,
297
00:17:07,478 --> 00:17:10,692
'I want to take the opportunity
to try and learn some more Greek
298
00:17:10,717 --> 00:17:13,473
'to impress my mum
with her mother tongue.'
299
00:17:13,498 --> 00:17:15,562
So, you need to teach me
one thing in Greek.
300
00:17:18,998 --> 00:17:21,763
The gods want to bless you.
OK, so, how do I say that?
301
00:17:21,788 --> 00:17:23,893
THEY SPEAK
AND REPEAT GREEK
302
00:17:25,118 --> 00:17:27,362
Oh, that's hard.
SHE SPEAKS GREEK
303
00:17:29,998 --> 00:17:32,482
Excellent, excellent. Exactly.
SHE SPEAKS GREEK
304
00:17:32,507 --> 00:17:34,692
HE CORRECTS HER
305
00:17:36,668 --> 00:17:38,843
HE LAUGHS
So good.
306
00:17:38,868 --> 00:17:40,333
I'll try.
Yes.
307
00:17:40,358 --> 00:17:41,763
Thank you, Nikos.
OK.
308
00:17:43,148 --> 00:17:45,003
Just a chance to hug him.
Yes.
309
00:17:48,478 --> 00:17:50,643
'The Cretan lyra
is an emotive instrument
310
00:17:50,668 --> 00:17:53,763
'that echoes
the island's turbulent past.
311
00:17:54,868 --> 00:17:58,003
'Throughout history,
the Cretans have suffered
312
00:17:58,028 --> 00:18:01,283
'at the hands of the Romans,
the Turks and, most recently,
313
00:18:01,308 --> 00:18:03,333
'the Nazis
during the Second World War.
314
00:18:03,358 --> 00:18:07,203
'A short boat ride
from the coast of eastern Crete
315
00:18:07,228 --> 00:18:10,083
'is a little prison island
with a haunting past.
316
00:18:12,008 --> 00:18:15,013
'Spinalonga wasn't home
to criminals,
317
00:18:15,038 --> 00:18:17,293
'it was Europe's last leper colony.
318
00:18:18,517 --> 00:18:21,063
'Widely believed
to be the world's oldest disease,
319
00:18:21,088 --> 00:18:25,013
'leprosy causes severe disfiguring
skin sores and nerve damage.
320
00:18:26,597 --> 00:18:29,733
'Lepers were stigmatised
and treated as outcasts.
321
00:18:30,958 --> 00:18:35,842
'In Greece, if you caught leprosy,
you were sent here to Spinalonga,
322
00:18:35,867 --> 00:18:37,233
'for good.'
323
00:18:37,258 --> 00:18:39,822
It's such a short boat ride
over from the mainland,
324
00:18:39,847 --> 00:18:43,263
but imagine if you knew
that this was your last boat trip.
325
00:18:43,288 --> 00:18:45,903
That you were leaving your family,
your friends...
326
00:18:47,038 --> 00:18:48,653
...and your new life
was waiting here.
327
00:18:49,928 --> 00:18:51,452
A new life with strangers.
328
00:18:53,288 --> 00:18:56,543
And this would be the place to die.
329
00:19:01,958 --> 00:19:03,372
You can't really imagine it,
330
00:19:03,397 --> 00:19:08,183
because now it all seems
so pretty and so adventurous.
331
00:19:13,878 --> 00:19:17,742
'Since Victoria Hislop wrote a
global bestseller about Spinalonga,
332
00:19:17,767 --> 00:19:20,773
called The Island,
it's become a tourist hotspot.
333
00:19:20,798 --> 00:19:23,903
'That's how I heard about
this tragic story.'
334
00:19:27,158 --> 00:19:29,822
Spinalonga was called
the Island of Tears.
335
00:19:31,148 --> 00:19:33,563
If you fell pregnant
while you were here,
336
00:19:33,588 --> 00:19:36,452
they would check your baby
for leprosy...
337
00:19:37,767 --> 00:19:39,213
...and if they didn't have leprosy,
338
00:19:39,238 --> 00:19:41,413
obviously,
you'd be crossing your fingers,
339
00:19:41,438 --> 00:19:43,103
then your child
would be taken away from you
340
00:19:43,128 --> 00:19:46,133
and taken back to the mainland
to live with your family there.
341
00:19:46,158 --> 00:19:47,822
So you'd never see them again.
342
00:19:53,517 --> 00:19:56,383
This was a completely
self-sufficient island.
343
00:19:56,408 --> 00:20:01,183
There were about 400 people
that lived on the island,
344
00:20:01,208 --> 00:20:02,983
and there are lots of signs
that people here
345
00:20:03,008 --> 00:20:05,572
were getting on
with as normal a life as possible.
346
00:20:10,397 --> 00:20:12,543
The Nazis,
during the occupation of Crete,
347
00:20:12,568 --> 00:20:13,903
wouldn't step foot on the island.
348
00:20:13,928 --> 00:20:16,702
They had no need to
and they were frightened as well.
349
00:20:16,727 --> 00:20:20,103
Apparently,
snipers would sit on the mainland
350
00:20:20,128 --> 00:20:22,413
and take pot shots
at the residents here.
351
00:20:23,568 --> 00:20:26,413
As if life wasn't bad enough
here on Spinalonga.
352
00:20:34,958 --> 00:20:37,183
I mean, it looks very beautiful,
doesn't it? But...
353
00:20:38,397 --> 00:20:40,372
...there's a very eerie feel here.
354
00:20:42,717 --> 00:20:45,742
Because, you know,
behind all of these doors,
355
00:20:45,767 --> 00:20:47,183
that there would always be
356
00:20:47,208 --> 00:20:49,742
that shadow of sadness
in your heart, wouldn't there?
357
00:20:49,767 --> 00:20:51,572
The life that you used to have.
358
00:20:56,898 --> 00:21:00,543
The last person left this island
in 1957.
359
00:21:00,568 --> 00:21:04,183
That's not so long ago, is it?
60-odd years.
360
00:21:06,288 --> 00:21:09,653
'Spinalonga will leave
a lasting impression on me.
361
00:21:09,678 --> 00:21:11,853
'Crete has a rich history,
362
00:21:11,878 --> 00:21:14,653
'passionate soul
and beautiful landscapes.
363
00:21:14,678 --> 00:21:18,013
'My next Greek island will certainly
have a lot to live up to.
364
00:21:22,288 --> 00:21:26,483
'Next time, my Grecian grand tour
takes me to Corfu.'
365
00:21:26,508 --> 00:21:28,903
What a special, magical place.
366
00:21:28,928 --> 00:21:31,853
'The island renowned for being
the least Greek of them all.'
367
00:21:31,878 --> 00:21:36,383
Oh, come on! Seriously?
It's as if I'm in Venice.
368
00:21:36,408 --> 00:21:40,343
'I'll be trekking into its hidden
heart in search of secret villages.'
369
00:21:40,368 --> 00:21:42,572
Because of the pirate attacks
on the island...
370
00:21:42,597 --> 00:21:44,853
Pirates? Like real-life pirates?
Real-life pirates.
371
00:21:44,878 --> 00:21:46,463
'And exploring the unique character
372
00:21:46,488 --> 00:21:48,742
'which makes it
the melting pot of the Med.'
373
00:21:48,767 --> 00:21:51,293
The flavours, Katarina,
are incredible.
374
00:21:51,318 --> 00:21:54,692
Corfu on a plate.
375
00:21:55,798 --> 00:21:58,372
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