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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:55,500 --> 00:00:59,840 The waters that cover most of the planet are in constant movement. 2 00:01:00,380 --> 00:01:02,760 As the moon circles around the spinning earth, 3 00:01:03,010 --> 00:01:07,600 so the pull of its gravity causes the oceans to rise and fall, 4 00:01:07,810 --> 00:01:13,690 and twice every day, the sea surges up and down the coasts of the continents. 5 00:01:22,860 --> 00:01:24,990 In the Bay of Fundy in North America, 6 00:01:25,160 --> 00:01:28,370 the shape of the coast and the slope of the seabed 7 00:01:28,540 --> 00:01:32,870 produces the highest tides of all, rising 50 feet. 8 00:01:44,260 --> 00:01:48,600 Living in this in-between world, which is neither sea nor land, 9 00:01:48,810 --> 00:01:51,640 demands very special talents. 10 00:02:00,110 --> 00:02:02,650 This is a battle ground. 11 00:02:16,170 --> 00:02:20,750 In many places, the sea is forcing the land to retreat, cutting back its cliffs 12 00:02:20,920 --> 00:02:25,880 and leaving islands and towers as markers of the territory that the land has lost 13 00:02:26,630 --> 00:02:28,390 The debris is swept away 14 00:02:28,550 --> 00:02:32,810 and strewn on beaches farther down the coast as sand and gravel. 15 00:02:37,440 --> 00:02:40,400 In some places, the land is advancing. 16 00:02:40,610 --> 00:02:44,990 In the tropics, mangroves are moving out into the sea, gathering mud 17 00:02:45,200 --> 00:02:48,450 and building new territory for land-living creatures. 18 00:02:51,080 --> 00:02:52,620 Even in the mouths of rivers, 19 00:02:52,790 --> 00:02:57,670 where fresh water laden with sediment mingles with the salt water of the sea, 20 00:02:57,830 --> 00:03:01,790 new land is being created of a sort. 21 00:03:07,380 --> 00:03:10,720 I'm in an estuary in the west of England. 22 00:03:10,970 --> 00:03:16,560 You might think that this mud is not the most attractive stuff in which to live. 23 00:03:16,890 --> 00:03:21,860 Certainly, animals that do live in it have to face some severe problems. 24 00:03:22,150 --> 00:03:26,030 Part of their time they're out of water like this, 25 00:03:26,280 --> 00:03:28,700 part of the time they're underwater. 26 00:03:28,990 --> 00:03:31,030 The saltiness of the water, too, varies. 27 00:03:31,200 --> 00:03:35,660 Fresh water comes down from the land, the tides bring in salt water. 28 00:03:35,910 --> 00:03:41,710 And then there's the nature of this extraordinarily sticky mud itself. 29 00:03:42,710 --> 00:03:45,510 It is so glutinous that little oxygen gets into it 30 00:03:45,670 --> 00:03:50,510 but the rewards for enduring these unpromising conditions are high. 31 00:03:55,430 --> 00:03:58,770 Edible particles deposited on the surface of the mud 32 00:03:58,940 --> 00:04:04,230 are cautiously sucked up by the searching siphon of Scrobicularia, 33 00:04:04,480 --> 00:04:09,700 a mollusc whose main body, enclosed in a shell, hides in the mud for safety. 34 00:04:10,200 --> 00:04:13,740 A tiny crustacean, Corophium, half an inch long, 35 00:04:13,910 --> 00:04:17,120 grazes on the bacteria which proliferate in millions, 36 00:04:17,410 --> 00:04:20,500 breaking down rotting organic matter in the mud. 37 00:04:22,500 --> 00:04:23,880 Ragworms live in burrows 38 00:04:24,040 --> 00:04:28,670 and will tackle Corophium, algae, bacteria, almost anything that's around. 39 00:04:38,020 --> 00:04:40,640 The puddles are flecked with floating mucus. 40 00:04:40,850 --> 00:04:44,810 It is produced by spire shells, no bigger than grains of wheat. 41 00:04:45,060 --> 00:04:49,740 The mucus attracts bacteria, and the spire shells eat the lot. 42 00:05:04,040 --> 00:05:07,710 The peacock worm fans out its tentacles from the top of its tube 43 00:05:07,920 --> 00:05:11,010 to gather food particles before they settle. 44 00:05:23,940 --> 00:05:26,270 Beating threads on each filament of the fan 45 00:05:26,440 --> 00:05:29,860 transport the catch down to the mouth at the centre. 46 00:05:34,570 --> 00:05:38,450 While it feeds, it also disgorges a cement of mud and mucus 47 00:05:38,620 --> 00:05:40,910 and builds up the margin of its tube. 48 00:05:47,630 --> 00:05:49,920 The cockle lies with its shell agape, 49 00:05:50,090 --> 00:05:53,800 filtering the water by sucking it in through one siphon... 50 00:05:55,930 --> 00:05:58,970 ...and blowing it out through another. 51 00:06:01,180 --> 00:06:04,310 Mussels use the same technique, collecting within their shells 52 00:06:04,520 --> 00:06:10,360 substantial quantities of the abundant and nutritious drifting particles. 53 00:06:16,070 --> 00:06:19,410 When the tide goes out, they clamp their shells tightly together 54 00:06:19,620 --> 00:06:23,000 to keep in their moisture and to keep out attackers, 55 00:06:23,330 --> 00:06:25,750 but some creatures know how to deal with that. 56 00:06:35,380 --> 00:06:39,890 Each oyster-catcher has its favourite technique for dealing with mussels. 57 00:06:40,260 --> 00:06:42,810 It is usually the same as that used by its parents 58 00:06:42,970 --> 00:06:48,610 though a bird needs years of practice before it becomes really expert. 59 00:06:49,060 --> 00:06:53,740 Some hunt in the shallow waters for mussels that have not yet shut their shells. 60 00:06:58,530 --> 00:07:02,740 Others carry unattached shells away from the main flock 61 00:07:02,910 --> 00:07:04,620 so they've got a little privacy. 62 00:07:04,950 --> 00:07:10,000 They skilfully place the mussel in such a position that they can cut it open along its hinge. 63 00:07:24,060 --> 00:07:27,730 Other individual birds resort to brute force. 64 00:07:27,980 --> 00:07:30,560 They hammer their way in through the shell itself. 65 00:07:41,870 --> 00:07:46,160 As the tide retreats still further, spire shells are exposed, 66 00:07:46,330 --> 00:07:50,500 as many as 35,000 buried within a single square yard. 67 00:07:50,750 --> 00:07:54,170 All these mud feeders together constitute a rich prize, 68 00:07:54,340 --> 00:07:56,630 and there are abundant claimants. 69 00:08:11,520 --> 00:08:14,610 Sandpipers, on migration, depend on them, 70 00:08:14,820 --> 00:08:18,950 but at all times of the year, wading birds come to the estuaries to feed. 71 00:08:22,320 --> 00:08:25,080 The godwit, equipped with long legs and a long bill, 72 00:08:25,240 --> 00:08:27,290 can wade in water several inches deep 73 00:08:27,450 --> 00:08:30,540 and collect food before it can be reached by other birds. 74 00:08:32,460 --> 00:08:35,000 The curlew prefers to work out of water. 75 00:08:35,380 --> 00:08:38,760 Its long bill enables it to probe deep into the mud for a worm, 76 00:08:39,010 --> 00:08:41,590 and serves equally well as a pair of forceps. 77 00:08:46,810 --> 00:08:50,230 The dunlin is a smaller bird and goes for smaller prey: 78 00:08:50,480 --> 00:08:51,980 Ragworms and insect larvae. 79 00:08:52,310 --> 00:08:55,020 It feels for its food with its short bill. 80 00:09:19,840 --> 00:09:22,050 The ringed plover, with a very short bill, 81 00:09:22,380 --> 00:09:26,100 can only collect food from the surface and locates it by sight. 82 00:09:26,390 --> 00:09:30,680 It works alone so that its prey won't be disturbed by pattering feet 83 00:09:30,850 --> 00:09:33,310 and withdraw before being spotted. 84 00:09:35,730 --> 00:09:37,360 The scything action of the avocet 85 00:09:37,520 --> 00:09:39,980 collects creatures that live in the liquid mud. 86 00:09:49,620 --> 00:09:53,620 Their bills are very sensitive. As soon as they close on something edible, 87 00:09:53,830 --> 00:09:56,540 the bird can juggle it up into its mouth. 88 00:10:39,170 --> 00:10:43,720 The quantities of food taken by wading birds from estuaries is enormous. 89 00:10:43,880 --> 00:10:48,550 Some species consume every day about a third of their own weight in food. 90 00:10:48,760 --> 00:10:51,430 In a year, a single oyster-catcher 91 00:10:51,600 --> 00:10:54,770 can consume the flesh over half a ton of cockles, 92 00:10:55,060 --> 00:10:59,610 and many an estuary supports tens of thousands of wading birds, 93 00:10:59,810 --> 00:11:02,230 so these places are rich indeed. 94 00:11:06,030 --> 00:11:09,240 As the river brings down more and more particles of mud, 95 00:11:09,490 --> 00:11:12,620 so the flats grow bigger and higher, 96 00:11:12,830 --> 00:11:18,170 and on their surface they develop a slimy skin, 97 00:11:18,500 --> 00:11:22,590 and that's formed by microscopic plants, algae. 98 00:11:22,960 --> 00:11:25,970 They start the process of consolidation. 99 00:11:26,760 --> 00:11:31,180 But soon, bigger plants get root, like this glasswort, 100 00:11:31,350 --> 00:11:34,310 and now the process really speeds up. 101 00:11:38,060 --> 00:11:43,320 As the high tide brings in more mud particles, they clog around the stems of the glasswort 102 00:11:43,530 --> 00:11:46,740 and don't swill back to the sea when the tide fall 103 00:11:47,240 --> 00:11:50,910 So with each new tide, the flats grow higher and higher. 104 00:11:53,700 --> 00:11:57,000 Glasswort is a plant of the cold estuaries of Europe. 105 00:11:57,250 --> 00:12:03,040 In the tropics, the colonisers of mud are not small plants but trees: 106 00:12:03,250 --> 00:12:04,670 Mangroves. 107 00:12:07,510 --> 00:12:11,640 This mud is the pulverised remains of rocks eroded from the Himalayas 108 00:12:11,850 --> 00:12:15,220 that has been carried down by the Ganges for 1,000 miles 109 00:12:15,390 --> 00:12:17,980 and dumped on the edge of the Bay of Bengal. 110 00:12:18,430 --> 00:12:24,070 This is the biggest intertidal forest of all, the Sunderbans, 4,000 square miles of it, 111 00:12:24,400 --> 00:12:28,360 and here roam many animals that usually live in dry-land forests. 112 00:12:29,950 --> 00:12:31,360 Axis deer. 113 00:12:43,590 --> 00:12:46,710 Woodpeckers: The Indian golden-banded. 114 00:12:53,050 --> 00:12:54,600 And wild boar. 115 00:12:58,980 --> 00:13:03,690 But mangrove forests also harbour creatures that live nowhere else at all. 116 00:13:04,150 --> 00:13:07,980 The proboscis monkey eats almost nothing but mangrove leaves. 117 00:13:08,280 --> 00:13:11,070 It developed that specialism on the island of Borneo, 118 00:13:11,280 --> 00:13:16,120 and has never spread overseas, trapped by its own specialised requirements. 119 00:13:23,670 --> 00:13:27,630 Mangroves themselves are distributed widely through the tropics, 120 00:13:27,920 --> 00:13:31,130 for they have evolved from many different plant families 121 00:13:31,340 --> 00:13:34,760 and today there are some 40 different species of them. 122 00:13:36,140 --> 00:13:39,890 The flowers of this pioneering mangrove are pollinated by the wind. 123 00:13:40,180 --> 00:13:44,230 The seed doesn't immediately leave the parent tree. 124 00:13:44,480 --> 00:13:46,900 It starts to grow while it is still attached, 125 00:13:47,110 --> 00:13:51,820 producing a green shoot a foot long with a sharp end to it. 126 00:13:54,530 --> 00:13:56,370 If it falls when the tide is in, 127 00:13:56,530 --> 00:13:58,870 it floats horizontally in the buoyant salt water 128 00:13:59,040 --> 00:14:02,210 and may be carried for miles before being stranded. 129 00:14:02,460 --> 00:14:08,290 If the tide is out, it stabs the mud and stays in that position when the tide returns. 130 00:14:08,670 --> 00:14:13,300 It puts out rootlets from the bottom and leaves from the top, 131 00:14:13,510 --> 00:14:16,510 and within a few days, it's firmly established. 132 00:14:19,060 --> 00:14:21,350 Just as in cold-water estuaries, 133 00:14:21,560 --> 00:14:24,060 there's a lot of organic matter in this mud. 134 00:14:24,480 --> 00:14:30,440 Because it's so sticky, it isn't stirred up, so there's little oxygen in it, 135 00:14:30,610 --> 00:14:34,320 and the process of rotting produces within the mud itself 136 00:14:34,530 --> 00:14:40,160 an acid, smelly, poisonous chemical: Hydrogen sulphide. 137 00:14:41,580 --> 00:14:46,420 So these roots don't go down far into the mud. 138 00:14:46,750 --> 00:14:51,460 Instead, they support the trees by their sheer number. 139 00:14:51,840 --> 00:14:56,180 But what about the other things that normal roots do for normal trees, 140 00:14:56,380 --> 00:15:01,010 like gathering nutrients and water and oxygen? 141 00:15:01,350 --> 00:15:05,390 Well, these roots deal with the nutrient problem like this. 142 00:15:12,730 --> 00:15:17,160 It has this cluster of very fine roots 143 00:15:17,360 --> 00:15:21,490 which don't go more than an inch or so below the surface of the mud, 144 00:15:21,700 --> 00:15:26,580 but it is on the surface of the mud that the bulk of the nutrients are found. 145 00:15:27,170 --> 00:15:31,540 As for water, there's plenty of it here, but it's salty. 146 00:15:31,790 --> 00:15:38,380 Some mangroves have a special membrane around the cells in the root hairs 147 00:15:38,550 --> 00:15:41,010 which filters off the salt. 148 00:15:41,390 --> 00:15:45,850 Others absorb the salt but then excrete it from the leaves, 149 00:15:46,020 --> 00:15:50,440 or concentrate it in the leaf and then the leaves are shed. 150 00:15:50,860 --> 00:15:55,740 And oxygen, well, there are several different solutions to that problem. 151 00:15:55,900 --> 00:15:59,860 This mangrove has pores actually in these prop roots 152 00:16:00,030 --> 00:16:02,950 which absorb the oxygen directly. 153 00:16:03,740 --> 00:16:06,910 This one has roots which actually grow upwards, 154 00:16:07,080 --> 00:16:11,580 so keeping pace with the rising surface of the accumulating mud. 155 00:16:12,090 --> 00:16:17,340 It's not only plants in the mangrove swamps that have difficulty in getting oxygen. 156 00:16:17,550 --> 00:16:24,220 So do animals, and this time, low tide, is a period of particular difficulty. 157 00:16:25,140 --> 00:16:28,180 Many molluscs, like cockles and mussels elsewhere, 158 00:16:28,390 --> 00:16:31,190 shut their shells to keep what moisture they have 159 00:16:31,400 --> 00:16:34,900 and wait for the food-and-oxygen-bearing water to return. 160 00:16:35,150 --> 00:16:41,660 For them, it's a period of inactivity, but for other creatures, it's just the opposite. 161 00:16:54,750 --> 00:16:57,130 The mudskipper, of course, is a fish. 162 00:16:57,380 --> 00:16:59,130 There are several different kinds. 163 00:16:59,340 --> 00:17:01,590 This one lives near high-water mark, 164 00:17:01,760 --> 00:17:04,760 and is the sort that spends most time out of water. 165 00:17:05,810 --> 00:17:09,810 It has to keep its skin moist for it absorbs oxygen through it. 166 00:17:10,020 --> 00:17:13,560 It also keeps its mouth full of water swilling over its gills. 167 00:17:17,400 --> 00:17:20,570 It feeds on the little crabs that graze on the mud 168 00:17:25,370 --> 00:17:28,660 And having got one, it needs another mouthful of water. 169 00:17:37,550 --> 00:17:40,670 A second kind lives close to low-water mark, 170 00:17:40,840 --> 00:17:44,050 so it is only out of water for an hour or so each day. 171 00:17:44,300 --> 00:17:48,350 It sifts the liquid mud for small crustaceans and worms. 172 00:17:59,360 --> 00:18:02,700 In between these two kinds lives the largest of the three. 173 00:18:02,950 --> 00:18:07,910 It is a vegetarian, collecting algae and other microscopic plants from the mud. 174 00:18:14,960 --> 00:18:18,630 And it, too, nips back every now and then for a wet. 175 00:18:23,300 --> 00:18:25,760 It guards its grazing rights with vigour, 176 00:18:25,970 --> 00:18:27,970 building walls around its territory. 177 00:18:37,770 --> 00:18:40,480 And when neighbours meet, there's trouble. 178 00:18:51,870 --> 00:18:55,830 On clear mud, their territories form a patchwork of walled ponds. 179 00:18:56,120 --> 00:19:00,460 These flats are very flat, so when a male starts to advertise for a mate, 180 00:19:00,630 --> 00:19:02,670 he has to be a bit of a gymnast. 181 00:19:15,850 --> 00:19:18,900 When a female is enticed into his private pond, 182 00:19:19,150 --> 00:19:21,520 he can continue his courtship at close quarters 183 00:19:21,690 --> 00:19:24,110 in a more conventionally fish fashion, 184 00:19:24,320 --> 00:19:29,070 with flexed fins, waggling tail and enormous excitement. 185 00:20:03,400 --> 00:20:06,240 They'll spawn in a burrow at the bottom of the pond. 186 00:20:11,070 --> 00:20:14,290 This crab is too big to be intimidated by mudskippers, 187 00:20:14,450 --> 00:20:17,250 even when it does wander through their territories. 188 00:20:26,880 --> 00:20:31,890 Its scissoring mouthparts not only sort out its food but help it to breathe. 189 00:20:32,180 --> 00:20:34,310 On top of its shell, there is a puddle of water, 190 00:20:34,510 --> 00:20:36,180 and as its mouthparts move, 191 00:20:36,350 --> 00:20:39,810 they circulate this into a gill chamber within the shell, 192 00:20:39,980 --> 00:20:43,110 out again and up to the reservoir on the top. 193 00:20:43,650 --> 00:20:46,150 Eventually, the oxygen in the water is exhausted 194 00:20:46,320 --> 00:20:50,950 and the crab has to return to the sea, tip it off and get a fresh supply. 195 00:20:55,080 --> 00:20:59,910 Close by the edge of the sea, the tiny soldier crabs feed with frantic haste. 196 00:21:00,170 --> 00:21:06,340 No one else will steal their mud, but they have to eat an enormous quantity 197 00:21:06,500 --> 00:21:09,670 to extract the few particles necessary to keep alive. 198 00:21:09,970 --> 00:21:14,510 They have to work at it pretty well non-stop and have no time to waste. 199 00:21:23,900 --> 00:21:26,570 High up, beyond the reach of all but the highest tides, 200 00:21:26,770 --> 00:21:29,150 lives the large mangrove crab. 201 00:21:29,570 --> 00:21:34,780 It keeps moist by boring its hole as much as six feet deep to reach water. 202 00:21:35,070 --> 00:21:39,370 The lure that tempts it out is a newly fallen mangrove leaf. 203 00:21:44,210 --> 00:21:46,000 And quickly back to safety. 204 00:21:50,970 --> 00:21:55,550 Among the air-absorbing roots of the mangroves, fiddler crabs are busy. 205 00:21:56,010 --> 00:21:58,350 The females collect mud with both pincers, 206 00:21:58,520 --> 00:22:02,390 working with the same frantic speed as the soldier crabs. 207 00:22:05,060 --> 00:22:07,900 The males need to munch just as much mud as the females, 208 00:22:08,150 --> 00:22:10,030 but work with one hand only, 209 00:22:10,240 --> 00:22:13,990 for one of their claws is so big that it is useless for feeding. 210 00:22:16,620 --> 00:22:19,990 They use it instead to wave at passing females. 211 00:22:26,710 --> 00:22:29,920 But it is also a weapon to brandish at rivals. 212 00:22:35,430 --> 00:22:36,680 A less well-equipped male 213 00:22:36,890 --> 00:22:40,600 gets a nasty hammering even before he can get out of his hole. 214 00:22:52,400 --> 00:22:54,740 The claw is long enough to reach down into the burrow 215 00:22:54,950 --> 00:22:58,450 to give his opponent a tweak where he's least expecting it. 216 00:23:06,460 --> 00:23:11,630 The purpose of the wave is to encourage a female to follow a male into his burrow. 217 00:23:24,980 --> 00:23:29,520 Is it possible perhaps just to take a moment or so off from munching mud? 218 00:23:33,360 --> 00:23:36,700 At low tide, there's lots for birds to eat on the mangrove mud, 219 00:23:36,910 --> 00:23:39,780 just as there is on estuaries elsewhere. 220 00:23:40,030 --> 00:23:44,910 Terns hawk for fish that are easier to catch now in the shallowing waters. 221 00:23:46,750 --> 00:23:49,460 Kingfishers pounce on the fiddler crabs. 222 00:23:57,680 --> 00:24:01,390 Great white heron stalk and stab. 223 00:24:20,320 --> 00:24:24,580 The returning tide signals "all change" for everyone. 224 00:24:30,290 --> 00:24:33,920 This African mangrove snail crops the algae growing on the mud, 225 00:24:34,130 --> 00:24:38,880 but it mustn't stay there when the tide comes in, for it would be attacked by fish. 226 00:24:39,550 --> 00:24:42,010 It takes refuge up in the trees. 227 00:24:42,260 --> 00:24:45,770 Its speediest climb is barely faster than the rise of the tide, 228 00:24:45,930 --> 00:24:48,430 so it has to set off in good time. 229 00:24:48,850 --> 00:24:53,820 Its internal alarm clock tells it when it should do so. 230 00:25:07,620 --> 00:25:12,500 The soldier crabs are so well adapted to their life scavenging on the exposed mud 231 00:25:12,670 --> 00:25:16,420 that they have become breathers of air, and without it they will drown. 232 00:25:17,340 --> 00:25:21,010 As the tide advances, each constructs a little igloo 233 00:25:21,180 --> 00:25:25,760 which traps a bubble of air with which the crab can breathe while the tide is in. 234 00:25:44,490 --> 00:25:50,710 The mudskippers' territorial walls built with such labour are breached by the incoming wavelets. 235 00:25:54,170 --> 00:25:57,130 Higher up, the mudskippers shelter in burrows. 236 00:26:05,850 --> 00:26:09,850 The incoming tide brings new creatures into the swamps. 237 00:26:10,100 --> 00:26:16,690 Shoals of fish arrive, searching for morsels deposited by the river while the tide was out. 238 00:26:21,400 --> 00:26:27,490 In the swamps of South-East Asia, archer fish feed on insects that have fallen on the surface. 239 00:26:34,670 --> 00:26:39,380 Uniquely, they also have a way of collecting insects from above the water. 240 00:26:41,590 --> 00:26:43,420 There is a groove in the roof of their mouth, 241 00:26:43,630 --> 00:26:49,060 so that a sudden thrust of the tongue produces a spurt of droplets like a water pistol. 242 00:26:57,150 --> 00:27:00,980 When there is a crowd, a marksman can't be sure of getting his prize. 243 00:27:13,750 --> 00:27:17,420 So in company, it may be better to try a direct assault. 244 00:27:42,070 --> 00:27:45,570 The larger fish are themselves food for otters, 245 00:27:45,820 --> 00:27:48,110 but these hunters have broad appetites 246 00:27:48,280 --> 00:27:53,790 and will enthusiastically tackle snails, crabs and even mussels. 247 00:28:10,970 --> 00:28:15,930 They are great travellers, swimming for many miles up into fresh water or down into the sea 248 00:28:16,140 --> 00:28:18,390 and even out to offshore islands, 249 00:28:18,810 --> 00:28:22,070 and they have an enormous appetite for play. 250 00:28:34,410 --> 00:28:39,290 The largest of all living reptiles is found among mangroves: 251 00:28:39,670 --> 00:28:45,340 The estuarine crocodile, a monster that grows to 23 feet long. 252 00:29:32,680 --> 00:29:36,350 Like its ancestors that lived when dinosaurs dominated the earth, 253 00:29:36,510 --> 00:29:38,770 it's an ocean-going creature, 254 00:29:39,020 --> 00:29:43,020 and, as a consequence, it's the most widely distributed of all crocodiles 255 00:29:43,230 --> 00:29:47,320 living from the Bay of Bengal through northern Australia to the Pacific, 256 00:29:47,480 --> 00:29:53,320 even reaching isolated mangrove swamps on the islands of Fiji. 257 00:29:55,070 --> 00:29:58,870 As the mangroves establish themselves farther out into the sea, 258 00:29:59,040 --> 00:30:02,080 the mudflats they've built grow higher and higher. 259 00:30:02,420 --> 00:30:04,580 Rainwater washes them clean of salt, 260 00:30:04,830 --> 00:30:10,170 and eventually they become dry fertile forest, beyond the reach of the sea. 261 00:30:13,840 --> 00:30:17,100 The banks of mud and sand that the rivers lay down around their mouths, 262 00:30:17,260 --> 00:30:19,890 even when they are not big enough to rise above water, 263 00:30:20,100 --> 00:30:26,770 protect the land against the attacks of the sea, for tall waves can't travel across shallow water. 264 00:30:27,440 --> 00:30:30,990 But if a current sweeping down the coast carries away the sediment 265 00:30:31,150 --> 00:30:33,450 and scours the sea floor clean, 266 00:30:33,700 --> 00:30:37,120 then waves arrive at the coast full of power. 267 00:31:06,350 --> 00:31:08,730 Where the land dips steeply into the sea, 268 00:31:08,980 --> 00:31:14,490 the territory between the tides is not miles across but condensed into a narrow band. 269 00:31:14,900 --> 00:31:21,410 The creatures that live here, like all intertidal creatures, are threatened by two dangers. 270 00:31:22,160 --> 00:31:26,830 At the high-water mark, there are physical problems of being dried out, 271 00:31:27,040 --> 00:31:30,250 and at the low-water mark, there are biological problems 272 00:31:30,420 --> 00:31:35,680 of animals that creep up from the sea to prey upon the intertidal creatures. 273 00:31:35,880 --> 00:31:38,720 The interplay of those two sets of problems 274 00:31:38,890 --> 00:31:43,220 produces a series of horizontal bands along the coast, 275 00:31:43,520 --> 00:31:46,270 each dominated by the particular species 276 00:31:46,440 --> 00:31:51,020 which best deals with the problems at that particular level. 277 00:31:51,360 --> 00:31:55,400 Such bands can be seen on coasts all over the world, 278 00:31:55,610 --> 00:32:00,620 but here on the north-west coast of America, they are strikingly clear. 279 00:32:01,330 --> 00:32:03,830 The bottom band of all is only fully exposed 280 00:32:04,000 --> 00:32:08,120 when the moon and the sun are in such an alignment that they pull together 281 00:32:08,290 --> 00:32:11,710 and the tide withdraws a long way from the edge of the dry land. 282 00:32:12,460 --> 00:32:16,090 Organisms here only tolerate a brief exposure to the air 283 00:32:16,340 --> 00:32:20,510 and are unable to prevent themselves from being dried out. 284 00:32:26,640 --> 00:32:30,860 The sea urchin, in water, gnaws away at encrusting algae. 285 00:32:33,230 --> 00:32:37,400 But out of water, it can do nothing but simply hang on to the rocks. 286 00:32:38,200 --> 00:32:41,620 Nearby, giant sea anemones droop their tentacles, 287 00:32:41,780 --> 00:32:45,330 and many withdraw them, for in air there is nothing to feed on. 288 00:33:01,890 --> 00:33:05,890 Sea squirts can only filter for their food spasmodically. 289 00:33:07,480 --> 00:33:12,310 Starfish are meat-eaters, and this species feeds on mussels. 290 00:33:12,560 --> 00:33:16,730 It envelops them with its adhesive arms, wrenches apart their shells, 291 00:33:16,900 --> 00:33:18,490 and feeds on the flesh within. 292 00:33:18,900 --> 00:33:23,620 Below low-water mark, they kill any mussel that tries to establish itself. 293 00:33:23,870 --> 00:33:28,200 But like many of these low-level creatures, they can't feed out of water. 294 00:33:28,500 --> 00:33:35,000 So higher up, where the rocks are exposed to air for longer, conditions favour the mussels, 295 00:33:35,170 --> 00:33:36,880 and they form a dense band, 296 00:33:37,090 --> 00:33:41,630 cropped at the lower edge by starfish, but beyond their reach higher up. 297 00:33:47,970 --> 00:33:52,440 The massed mussels provide shelter for lots of other creatures: 298 00:33:52,600 --> 00:33:55,770 Small starfish, too small to tackle a mussel, 299 00:33:56,020 --> 00:34:00,780 worms and crustaceans, winkles and other molluscs. 300 00:34:09,040 --> 00:34:12,170 The mussels hold on to the rocks with bundles of threads, 301 00:34:12,370 --> 00:34:15,340 but can't withstand the pull of the roughest waves 302 00:34:15,590 --> 00:34:19,130 and in winter storms, sheets of them may be ripped away. 303 00:34:34,060 --> 00:34:38,360 In more exposed places where the waves beat with a particular ferocity, 304 00:34:38,610 --> 00:34:44,740 mussels give way to goose-necked barnacles which clasp the rock with a long fleshy foot. 305 00:34:56,170 --> 00:35:01,880 They feed by holding out stiff, fan-like arms which catch particles from the waves, 306 00:35:02,090 --> 00:35:06,300 not when they crash in, but as their waters flow gently back. 307 00:35:27,410 --> 00:35:33,290 On the most exposed promontories, the mussels are ousted by a plant: 308 00:35:33,580 --> 00:35:35,790 An odd-looking alga known as a sea palm 309 00:35:35,960 --> 00:35:39,710 which lives only on these north-western coasts of North America. 310 00:35:42,710 --> 00:35:45,260 The crown of leaves at the top of its rubbery stem 311 00:35:45,430 --> 00:35:52,430 enables the sea palm to harness the power of the waves and use it to attack the mussels. 312 00:35:52,770 --> 00:35:56,480 The plants, perhaps surprisingly, are annual. 313 00:35:56,770 --> 00:36:02,230 In the spring, an individual plant may achieve the difficult feat 314 00:36:02,480 --> 00:36:08,160 of getting hold of an individual mussel in the mussel bed, as this one has done. 315 00:36:09,320 --> 00:36:12,910 When it's mature, it will produce spores, 316 00:36:13,080 --> 00:36:16,870 but only when it's out of water as it is now. 317 00:36:17,210 --> 00:36:23,920 So instead of the spores being distributed widely as those of other plants are... 318 00:36:24,130 --> 00:36:29,300 ...the spores of the sea palm trickle down the grooves in these leaves 319 00:36:29,510 --> 00:36:32,180 and into the mussel bed here. 320 00:36:33,140 --> 00:36:36,480 When the first storms of the autumn come, 321 00:36:36,940 --> 00:36:43,940 they may catch underneath the fronds of this plant and rip it up. 322 00:36:44,280 --> 00:36:50,200 But the holdfast grips the mussels so firmly that the mussels come away with it, 323 00:36:50,370 --> 00:36:51,830 revealing the bare rock, 324 00:36:51,990 --> 00:36:58,120 and that means that the offspring of other nearby plants 325 00:36:58,290 --> 00:37:01,840 can get a hold on the bare rock. 326 00:37:02,290 --> 00:37:08,760 So by the sacrifice of one palm growing on a mussel one year, 327 00:37:09,050 --> 00:37:15,890 next year there will be a whole grove of palms growing firmly on the bedrock. 328 00:37:27,610 --> 00:37:32,990 But mussels do require a certain amount of immersion every day 329 00:37:33,160 --> 00:37:35,790 if they are not to dry out and die, 330 00:37:36,080 --> 00:37:38,870 and this line marks exactly that. 331 00:37:39,290 --> 00:37:41,750 Above it, no mussel can live. 332 00:37:42,000 --> 00:37:46,340 The creatures that can are these: Barnacles. 333 00:37:47,130 --> 00:37:53,430 Clamped tightly to the rocks, they conserve very effectively the moisture within their shells. 334 00:37:53,640 --> 00:37:58,060 They collect the minute quantities of food they require to grow and reproduce 335 00:37:58,220 --> 00:38:01,730 from the relatively infrequent submersions at high tide, 336 00:38:01,980 --> 00:38:06,730 which in some cases may only occur for an hour once a month. 337 00:38:33,220 --> 00:38:37,140 So each level on a rocky shore is dominated by the organisms 338 00:38:37,350 --> 00:38:41,980 that best deal with the precise combination of pounding by the waves, 339 00:38:42,190 --> 00:38:45,690 exposure to the air, and attack by deep-water predators. 340 00:38:46,060 --> 00:38:49,110 None, in the long run, can claim permanent occupation, 341 00:38:49,320 --> 00:38:52,280 for the attacks of the waves are unceasing. 342 00:39:21,890 --> 00:39:26,060 With unfailing accuracy, the sea picks out the softer parts of the rocks 343 00:39:26,230 --> 00:39:27,940 and cuts its way into them. 344 00:39:28,270 --> 00:39:32,240 Water at great pressure is driven into joints and cracks 345 00:39:32,400 --> 00:39:36,070 until it penetrates a cliff and forms a blowhole. 346 00:39:40,660 --> 00:39:46,120 On the southernmost tip of Australia, storms of great ferocity sweeping up from the south, 347 00:39:46,290 --> 00:39:49,380 with the full force of the Antarctic gales behind them, 348 00:39:49,630 --> 00:39:57,430 beat away at sandstone cliffs which have lines of weakness that run horizontally and vertically, 349 00:39:57,760 --> 00:40:00,930 so the rock is cut away in huge blocks. 350 00:40:38,590 --> 00:40:42,430 The sea, having demolished the cliffs, then works on the debris. 351 00:40:42,680 --> 00:40:46,770 During storms, it picks up the boulders and hurls them at the cliff face. 352 00:40:47,020 --> 00:40:52,770 At calmer times, it rolls the rocks over the seabed and casts them up on shingle banks. 353 00:40:53,150 --> 00:40:59,030 Every movement chips and grinds the fragments until they are reduced to sand grains, 354 00:40:59,360 --> 00:41:04,410 and now even a gentle current can pick them up and carry them for miles down the coast, 355 00:41:04,620 --> 00:41:07,790 eventually to abandon them in banks and strands 356 00:41:08,000 --> 00:41:11,130 in the lee of islands or in sheltered bays. 357 00:42:27,830 --> 00:42:32,920 Every wave of every tide stirs up the surface of the sand, 358 00:42:33,170 --> 00:42:40,800 so plants find it impossible to get any grip on it as they can on rocky shores or mudflats. 359 00:42:41,130 --> 00:42:48,850 So a beach like this looks as lifeless as any part of the margins of the land. 360 00:42:49,350 --> 00:42:53,600 But if the sand grains are not too small and compacted, 361 00:42:53,850 --> 00:42:59,150 then each will retain around it a thin film of moisture even when the tide is out, 362 00:42:59,400 --> 00:43:03,360 and in that microscopic space, animals can live. 363 00:43:06,320 --> 00:43:10,910 These translucent boulders are, in fact, sand grains, 364 00:43:11,160 --> 00:43:16,540 and the tiny snake-like animal a worm that could sit on a pinhead. 365 00:43:31,770 --> 00:43:33,810 All these inhabitants of the sand 366 00:43:33,980 --> 00:43:38,650 are, necessarily, adept at writhing, gliding and crawling 367 00:43:38,860 --> 00:43:45,160 as they search for the few edible fragments trapped between grains, or pursue one another. 368 00:43:57,630 --> 00:44:03,090 This one is only a temporary lodger in the sand. It is the larva of a mollusc. 369 00:44:07,760 --> 00:44:11,470 A hydra lives here. It's like the one that's common in freshwater ponds, 370 00:44:11,640 --> 00:44:15,770 but it has one elongated tentacle with which it anchors itself. 371 00:44:17,810 --> 00:44:21,730 A nematode worm produces glue from a gland on its tail 372 00:44:21,900 --> 00:44:24,320 which helps it to maintain its position. 373 00:44:33,540 --> 00:44:37,500 This is another larva that at the beginning of its life floats in the sea 374 00:44:37,710 --> 00:44:41,290 but settles down into the sand to continue its development. 375 00:44:41,920 --> 00:44:45,470 It builds a tiny tube of mucus which it carries about with it 376 00:44:45,630 --> 00:44:48,550 and clings to with bristles on its flanks. 377 00:44:57,770 --> 00:45:02,940 When it grows up, it does the same thing on a larger scale, above the sand. 378 00:45:03,320 --> 00:45:05,900 It's a worm called the sand mason. 379 00:45:07,780 --> 00:45:11,530 Now it not only builds a tube, but it adds long tassels to the top. 380 00:45:11,780 --> 00:45:15,750 These slow down the water so that suspended food particles fall 381 00:45:15,910 --> 00:45:18,290 and can be gathered by the waving tentacles. 382 00:45:19,080 --> 00:45:22,420 The tubes need constant renewal, 383 00:45:22,630 --> 00:45:27,880 and this is how the sand mason does it, speeded up 125 times. 384 00:46:12,220 --> 00:46:15,850 Although plants can't grow on these perpetually moving sands, 385 00:46:16,140 --> 00:46:21,020 those dislodged from the rocky parts of the coast by waves are washed up here, 386 00:46:21,390 --> 00:46:24,810 and there are plenty of creatures on the beach waiting for them. 387 00:46:37,790 --> 00:46:39,660 These are sand-hoppers. 388 00:46:39,910 --> 00:46:44,040 They hide below the surface to avoid being baked and dried out by the sun, 389 00:46:44,290 --> 00:46:46,670 but now there is food to be had. 390 00:47:04,060 --> 00:47:06,860 On many beaches, their numbers are astronomic. 391 00:47:07,150 --> 00:47:13,030 There can be as many as 25,000 of them in one square yard of beach sand. 392 00:47:26,130 --> 00:47:29,300 The sand-hoppers favour rotting vegetation. 393 00:47:29,960 --> 00:47:33,300 Rotting flesh attracts crabs. 394 00:47:42,100 --> 00:47:46,400 The remains of a squid is a banquet for ghost crabs. 395 00:48:08,250 --> 00:48:11,500 Occasionally, when there is a chance, it may be better to cut off a length 396 00:48:11,670 --> 00:48:15,300 and haul it away to consume it in the privacy of a burrow. 397 00:48:20,220 --> 00:48:23,850 The crabs and the shrimps live close to the high-tide mark. 398 00:48:24,100 --> 00:48:28,770 The incoming waters bring with them another team of scavengers. 399 00:48:30,440 --> 00:48:35,950 This periscope on a South African beach belongs to a mollusc: A plough snail. 400 00:48:41,200 --> 00:48:45,040 It inflates its plough-like foot by pumping in water, 401 00:48:45,290 --> 00:48:49,580 and it uses it not so much as a ploughshare as a surfboard. 402 00:48:50,130 --> 00:48:55,760 The waters pick it up and wash it swiftly inshore, together with its potential food... 403 00:48:59,430 --> 00:49:01,050 ...a stranded jellyfish. 404 00:49:10,730 --> 00:49:15,780 The plough snails detect its presence from the taste of decay in the surrounding water 405 00:49:15,990 --> 00:49:18,490 and advance on it with great speed. 406 00:49:56,780 --> 00:50:01,240 To avoid being swept up the beach and being stranded, they eat fast, 407 00:50:01,410 --> 00:50:05,950 and then, while there is some food left, they burrow into the sand. 408 00:50:06,540 --> 00:50:08,580 There they wait for the tide to turn 409 00:50:08,750 --> 00:50:13,500 so that they can ride back on their surfboards to deeper water and safety. 410 00:50:20,680 --> 00:50:26,140 Very few sea creatures venture above the limit of the highest tide and survive. 411 00:50:26,470 --> 00:50:31,640 One group of animals is compelled to do so by the nature of their ancestry, 412 00:50:31,850 --> 00:50:37,280 and on this one beach in Costa Rica, they stage an astonishing invasion. 413 00:50:38,740 --> 00:50:40,070 Turtles. 414 00:50:40,610 --> 00:50:45,620 They are Ridleys, the smallest of the sea-going turtles, only a couple of feet long. 415 00:50:46,620 --> 00:50:49,160 Turtles are descended from land-living reptiles, 416 00:50:49,370 --> 00:50:54,380 and, like all reptiles, they lay eggs that only develop and hatch in air. 417 00:50:54,630 --> 00:51:00,630 Every year, adult females, having mated at sea, must move onto dry land. 418 00:51:05,720 --> 00:51:10,140 They arrive at a rate of up to 5,000 an hour. 419 00:51:10,600 --> 00:51:15,310 They use only one or two of the thousands of beaches that seem to be suitable. 420 00:51:15,560 --> 00:51:19,980 What is more, they only choose to do so on just a few nights in the year 421 00:51:20,190 --> 00:51:22,320 between August and November. 422 00:51:30,370 --> 00:51:32,460 Efficient though their flippers are in water, 423 00:51:32,660 --> 00:51:36,920 they are barely strong enough to lift the turtle clear of the sand. 424 00:51:37,170 --> 00:51:39,590 It has to drag itself up the beach. 425 00:51:41,590 --> 00:51:45,140 This mass breeding may be an advantage to the turtle. 426 00:51:45,300 --> 00:51:48,010 Since it only occurs on a few nights a year, 427 00:51:48,350 --> 00:51:51,980 their eggs can't support a large permanent population of predators, 428 00:51:52,270 --> 00:51:55,480 as they might if the turtles were to lay over several months. 429 00:51:56,230 --> 00:51:59,360 Yet, even so, for reasons that we still don't understand, 430 00:51:59,650 --> 00:52:05,450 less than one in a hundred of the eggs produces a hatchling which reaches the sea. 431 00:52:06,570 --> 00:52:09,530 Each female lays a hundred or so. 432 00:52:23,300 --> 00:52:26,300 That done, she carefully fills in the hole. 433 00:52:44,650 --> 00:52:49,200 A few coatimundi and vultures come down from the forest to plunder, 434 00:52:49,450 --> 00:52:52,990 but they make little impact on the millions of eggs that are laid. 435 00:53:01,750 --> 00:53:05,840 Next night, many thousands more Ridleys arrive. 436 00:53:14,770 --> 00:53:20,770 On other beaches, more secretly, other very different turtles are laying. 437 00:53:22,690 --> 00:53:29,860 This is the largest of all the marine turtles. 438 00:53:30,160 --> 00:53:35,200 This magnificent creature is the giant leatherback turtle. 439 00:53:35,450 --> 00:53:38,290 And it's a most mysterious animal. 440 00:53:38,670 --> 00:53:42,090 It's a solitary wanderer of the oceans. 441 00:53:42,420 --> 00:53:49,010 Individuals turn up almost anywhere in the tropics but they go much farther than that. 442 00:53:49,380 --> 00:53:52,220 They've been recorded as far south as Argentina, 443 00:53:52,430 --> 00:53:55,890 and as far north as the British Isles and North America. 444 00:53:56,270 --> 00:54:00,230 It's a creature of mystery, because although we know what it feeds on, 445 00:54:00,440 --> 00:54:07,440 which is sea urchins and fish and, oddly enough, jellyfish, we know little else about it. 446 00:54:07,690 --> 00:54:12,620 We don't know how long they live. We don't know how the male finds females. 447 00:54:12,870 --> 00:54:19,540 We don't know how females navigate to find nesting sites like this one. 448 00:54:19,790 --> 00:54:25,840 Indeed we didn't know where the main nesting sites were until 25 years ago. 449 00:54:26,050 --> 00:54:31,890 Then it was discovered that some nested on the Suriname coast of South America 450 00:54:32,140 --> 00:54:36,140 and some nested here, on the east coast of Malaysia. 451 00:54:36,510 --> 00:54:40,850 Of course, the people here have always known about the turtles 452 00:54:41,020 --> 00:54:44,270 and have always plundered those eggs. 453 00:54:44,520 --> 00:54:48,650 Today, however, there are more people than ever here, 454 00:54:48,940 --> 00:54:52,820 and the eggs are plundered more seriously, 455 00:54:52,990 --> 00:54:58,580 so undoubtedly, this huge and extraordinary creature is in danger. 456 00:54:59,620 --> 00:55:05,380 But maybe the leatherback turtle has other breeding grounds that we don't know about. 457 00:55:05,590 --> 00:55:11,670 Maybe it goes to small, tiny coral islands in the emptiness of the ocean 458 00:55:11,840 --> 00:55:15,350 to find beaches far away from man. 44564

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