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This programme contains scenes which
some viewers may find upsetting.
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00:00:06,000 --> 00:00:09,280
Africa is home
to one billion people.
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TRAIN HORN
4
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This vast continent is
a melee of cultures and identities.
5
00:00:21,280 --> 00:00:22,960
For the past century,
6
00:00:22,960 --> 00:00:26,880
there's been a mass human
migration in Sub-Saharan Africa
7
00:00:26,880 --> 00:00:29,840
as families leave their rural
way of life behind
8
00:00:29,840 --> 00:00:32,520
and establish homes in towns
and cities.
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Growing up in the Sudan
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and newly-independent Kenya,
11
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I've watched this movement
of people.
12
00:00:46,480 --> 00:00:50,160
I've been photographing here
since the early 1970s.
13
00:00:50,160 --> 00:00:53,520
Recording the changing face of
Africa has always been my passion,
14
00:00:53,520 --> 00:00:56,400
and it's the focus
of my photography.
15
00:01:17,920 --> 00:01:20,960
Travelling out to remote parts
of the continent,
16
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I'm able to record what
still exists of the old,
17
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and also photograph
what's new and emerging.
18
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Despite the city's powerful
magnetic draw, surprisingly,
19
00:01:37,640 --> 00:01:41,320
most of Africa's billion people
do still live out on the land.
20
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It's a fascinating time because,
within the next ten years,
21
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that balance will tip
22
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and the majority of Africans
will become town and city dwellers.
23
00:01:59,360 --> 00:02:02,320
If I could find the same
rural people
24
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I photographed two or three decades
ago, I think they'd give me
25
00:02:05,800 --> 00:02:08,920
a vivid insight into Africa's
story of change.
26
00:02:24,320 --> 00:02:28,920
This wild land of North Kenya is
one of my favourite places on Earth,
27
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and it's home to a semi-nomadic
group called the Samburu.
28
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Here, in 1984,
29
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I took a series of portraits
of five young Samburu women.
30
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Because of their nomadic ways,
31
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who knows where those women
might be today,
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00:02:46,040 --> 00:02:49,360
or even whether any
of them will still be alive?
33
00:02:49,360 --> 00:02:51,480
But I would like to try
and track them down,
34
00:02:51,480 --> 00:02:54,840
and for that I'll need
the help of an old friend.
35
00:02:54,840 --> 00:02:56,680
Harry!
36
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How are you? Fine, thanks, fine.
37
00:03:07,680 --> 00:03:11,280
Well, we've come all this way
to talk to you about a plan.
38
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We have a plan.
39
00:03:16,800 --> 00:03:21,080
The young women whose portraits
I'd taken in 1984
40
00:03:21,080 --> 00:03:24,720
were all from traditional Samburu
clans, living with livestock.
41
00:03:24,720 --> 00:03:28,080
30 years on,
I want to know what's become of them
42
00:03:28,080 --> 00:03:30,920
and if Kibiriti will help me
find them again.
43
00:03:30,920 --> 00:03:33,480
Is that something that you
could come with us?
44
00:03:33,480 --> 00:03:36,600
Yes, I will come with you.
Yeah? Excellent.
45
00:03:36,600 --> 00:03:39,000
Do you need to get yourself
ready or anything?
46
00:03:39,000 --> 00:03:42,640
I think I can just put
a trouser on. OK.
47
00:03:42,640 --> 00:03:45,360
We found you without trousers,
without anything!
48
00:03:45,360 --> 00:03:47,560
I am very happy to see you again.
49
00:03:47,560 --> 00:03:49,480
So nice, so good.
50
00:03:49,480 --> 00:03:54,760
Were you surprised to see me?
Yes, yes. I just saw the car.
51
00:03:54,760 --> 00:03:59,120
I was standing here,
I recognised you. Really?
52
00:03:59,120 --> 00:04:02,480
You thought, "Who's that?" Harry.
53
00:04:05,280 --> 00:04:09,200
These five women.
What's your instinct?
54
00:04:11,840 --> 00:04:15,440
How do we start to look for them
and find them?
55
00:04:15,440 --> 00:04:19,240
I think the way to start
looking for these girls is to search
56
00:04:19,240 --> 00:04:23,440
out from the old names, the one
they had before. The family names?
57
00:04:23,440 --> 00:04:26,680
Their original family names?
The original family name.
58
00:04:26,680 --> 00:04:30,200
Do you think they will still be
living traditional lives?
59
00:04:30,200 --> 00:04:35,600
I think some might be,
because they never change.
60
00:04:35,600 --> 00:04:40,720
If married by the townspeople...
61
00:04:40,720 --> 00:04:43,720
They will be different there.
They will change.
62
00:04:43,720 --> 00:04:48,600
Or if they have been married
at the town, at the time, change.
63
00:04:48,600 --> 00:04:52,120
So people in the cities change
faster? Yeah.
64
00:04:52,120 --> 00:04:55,080
It will be a long journey to go
65
00:04:55,080 --> 00:04:56,680
and look for them because...
66
00:04:56,680 --> 00:05:00,400
HE SPEAKS IN DIALECT
67
00:05:00,400 --> 00:05:02,640
Looking for a needle in a haystack.
68
00:05:02,640 --> 00:05:04,600
Is that right? Yes.
69
00:05:10,960 --> 00:05:14,800
Samburu Land covers
an area of 8,000 square miles.
70
00:05:14,800 --> 00:05:17,240
That's a region the size of Wales.
71
00:05:17,240 --> 00:05:19,520
So I don't doubt Kibiriti
when he tells me
72
00:05:19,520 --> 00:05:22,960
that our search for the five
women will be no small task.
73
00:05:48,000 --> 00:05:52,560
'Drought is a recurrent
part of Africa's climate.
74
00:05:52,560 --> 00:05:54,200
'It's not a rarity here
75
00:05:54,200 --> 00:05:58,280
'and the Samburu have adapted
their lifestyles to deal with it.
76
00:05:58,280 --> 00:06:02,200
'Since 1984, there have been least
three cataclysmic droughts in which
77
00:06:02,200 --> 00:06:04,800
'most Samburu lost virtually
all their livestock
78
00:06:04,800 --> 00:06:07,440
'and many people died.'
79
00:06:11,880 --> 00:06:14,000
'My fear, I suppose, would be
80
00:06:14,000 --> 00:06:17,400
'to find out that the woman
in the photographs have suffered.'
81
00:06:20,360 --> 00:06:24,560
Kibiriti suggested that we return
to the place I took the photographs
82
00:06:24,560 --> 00:06:26,520
and speak to his friend, Douglas.
83
00:06:26,520 --> 00:06:30,320
He thought Douglas might know the
family names of some of the women.
84
00:06:30,320 --> 00:06:33,720
Do you recognise any of these girls?
85
00:06:34,880 --> 00:06:36,920
THEY DISCUSS
86
00:06:45,400 --> 00:06:48,520
30 years is a long time,
it's a lifetime.
87
00:06:59,640 --> 00:07:02,880
Of course. But that's
the story of all societies now.
88
00:07:10,640 --> 00:07:12,600
Of course.
89
00:07:19,360 --> 00:07:23,600
Douglas spread the word that we were
searching for the five women,
90
00:07:23,600 --> 00:07:27,040
though he, like Kibiriti, warned me
it wasn't going to be easy.
91
00:07:37,880 --> 00:07:39,760
Douglas explained that women
92
00:07:39,760 --> 00:07:41,680
generally marry into
a different clan,
93
00:07:41,680 --> 00:07:44,680
and, once they've
taken on their husband's name
94
00:07:44,680 --> 00:07:48,320
and moved away to live with his
family, they'd be hard to trace.
95
00:07:48,320 --> 00:07:51,240
But what if they hadn't married,
I asked.
96
00:07:51,240 --> 00:07:52,840
Douglas just laughed
97
00:07:52,840 --> 00:07:56,120
and said that wasn't an option
in the Samburu girls' life.
98
00:08:00,000 --> 00:08:03,640
The Samburu tribe are divided
into nine clans.
99
00:08:03,640 --> 00:08:06,680
Outside of towns,
they, for the most part,
100
00:08:06,680 --> 00:08:09,520
continue to live steeped
in their tribal tradition.
101
00:08:20,320 --> 00:08:21,960
When I arrive at a community,
102
00:08:21,960 --> 00:08:25,080
if people are amenable to
having their portrait made,
103
00:08:25,080 --> 00:08:27,160
I put up a studio tent.
104
00:08:28,920 --> 00:08:31,280
WHISPERS: Fantastic.
105
00:08:31,280 --> 00:08:35,320
It's like a Victorian
studio portrait.
106
00:08:37,280 --> 00:08:40,440
He wouldn't need one of those neck
braces to keep him still.
107
00:08:40,440 --> 00:08:43,200
Absolutely like a statue.
108
00:08:48,160 --> 00:08:49,760
Fantastic.
109
00:09:00,240 --> 00:09:03,400
You were just as still as a rock.
110
00:09:11,880 --> 00:09:13,960
HE EXCLAIMS
111
00:09:19,720 --> 00:09:21,480
Woo!
112
00:09:45,800 --> 00:09:48,520
I've just had my first
positive lead.
113
00:09:48,520 --> 00:09:51,480
One of the Samburu women has been
recognised by a relative.
114
00:09:51,480 --> 00:09:55,640
He believes Ndito Lekisoli
is now married to his brother
115
00:09:55,640 --> 00:09:58,160
and that she's living on
this hillside.
116
00:10:12,200 --> 00:10:15,240
I'll be gobsmacked if she's
actually here.
117
00:10:20,520 --> 00:10:24,680
That's her in the yellow.
No! Ndito?
118
00:10:26,800 --> 00:10:29,480
No.
119
00:10:31,640 --> 00:10:34,080
No, she hasn't spotted us yet.
120
00:10:34,080 --> 00:10:37,160
Here we are. Yes. Yes.
121
00:10:39,160 --> 00:10:41,240
Ndito!
122
00:12:01,960 --> 00:12:06,600
Her oldest child is 24.
She's a grandmother many times over.
123
00:12:06,600 --> 00:12:09,560
So exactly six years after
I took the picture,
124
00:12:09,560 --> 00:12:13,600
Ndito got married
and started having children.
125
00:12:13,600 --> 00:12:15,200
That's great.
126
00:12:16,400 --> 00:12:17,920
It's incredible.
127
00:12:17,920 --> 00:12:22,080
Amazing to find her 30 years on.
128
00:12:22,080 --> 00:12:25,320
What was the happiest
time of Ndito's life?
129
00:12:45,560 --> 00:12:48,800
What really surprised me
about photographing Ndito
130
00:12:48,800 --> 00:12:52,120
and finding her is that,
in 30 years,
131
00:12:52,120 --> 00:12:54,160
she's only moved two miles,
132
00:12:54,160 --> 00:12:57,120
settled down and had a family.
133
00:12:57,120 --> 00:13:00,240
So the whole pattern of
the Samburu nomadic group
134
00:13:00,240 --> 00:13:02,840
has completely changed
over 30 years.
135
00:13:02,840 --> 00:13:07,120
They're no longer travelling great
distances in search for pasture.
136
00:13:08,880 --> 00:13:13,160
I asked Ndito, what's the furthest
away place she'd been in her life?
137
00:13:13,160 --> 00:13:17,160
She told me it was when she went
on a shopping trip to Kasima.
138
00:13:17,160 --> 00:13:20,440
That's a small town 12 miles
from where she lives.
139
00:13:20,440 --> 00:13:22,760
It's interesting to me that
140
00:13:22,760 --> 00:13:26,360
it was a town, as opposed to some
wild, far off place.
141
00:13:26,360 --> 00:13:30,880
Small towns certainly are an
irresistible allure all over Africa.
142
00:13:30,880 --> 00:13:34,760
They're vital to people's
livelihoods as marketplaces,
143
00:13:34,760 --> 00:13:37,560
where they can buy
and sell livestock and produce.
144
00:13:41,640 --> 00:13:45,400
It's fantastic. A lovely pot of tea.
145
00:13:45,400 --> 00:13:47,360
It's the Serial Hotel.
146
00:13:47,360 --> 00:13:50,920
A hotel in this part of the world
isn't a place where you stay.
147
00:13:50,920 --> 00:13:54,640
It's a place where you eat.
It's a restaurant.
148
00:13:56,320 --> 00:13:59,280
Oh, hello. Is this your hotel? Yeah.
149
00:13:59,280 --> 00:14:03,560
Can I take a picture of you
and the mural? Thank you.
150
00:14:09,480 --> 00:14:11,240
I like your T-shirt.
151
00:14:16,800 --> 00:14:20,800
Excellent. Thank you, sir. What is
your speciality? What do you serve?
152
00:14:20,800 --> 00:14:24,040
I just sell rice, beans and potatoes,
153
00:14:24,040 --> 00:14:27,120
about 50 shillings for a plate.
154
00:14:27,120 --> 00:14:30,160
Cup of tea, 20 shillings per cup.
155
00:14:30,160 --> 00:14:32,680
20 shillings for a cup of tea?
156
00:14:32,680 --> 00:14:35,280
Yes. That's good value.
157
00:14:35,280 --> 00:14:39,240
That's about 20p a cup. That's
very good value. Yeah. Excellent.
158
00:14:39,240 --> 00:14:42,240
Can I have a cup of tea?
Yeah, come on.
159
00:14:42,240 --> 00:14:44,520
Thank you, thank you.
160
00:14:46,000 --> 00:14:49,040
Oh, it's very sweet.
It's already got the sugar in it.
161
00:14:49,040 --> 00:14:51,080
It's very sweet. Delicious.
162
00:14:52,840 --> 00:14:56,160
The people who travel into these
small market towns
163
00:14:56,160 --> 00:14:59,720
to sell their produce or buy goods
often come from a place
164
00:14:59,720 --> 00:15:03,360
way out in the land,
a place they still call home.
165
00:15:05,200 --> 00:15:08,720
But Samburu territory is
surrounded by other tribal groups.
166
00:15:08,720 --> 00:15:12,040
There are more people on the land
than there once were,
167
00:15:12,040 --> 00:15:14,960
so there's greater conflict
over grazing and water.
168
00:15:16,040 --> 00:15:20,320
Cattle can never be more than half
a day's walk from drinking water.
169
00:15:20,320 --> 00:15:24,600
In the remote parts of northern
Kenya, traditional singing wells
170
00:15:24,600 --> 00:15:27,120
are still very much in use.
171
00:15:28,840 --> 00:15:31,360
THEY ALL SING
172
00:16:01,160 --> 00:16:04,040
THEY DISCUSS
173
00:16:09,080 --> 00:16:12,840
My search for the four remaining
women continues,
174
00:16:12,840 --> 00:16:15,760
and I've just met someone who thinks
they know Mary Lesupai.
175
00:16:19,920 --> 00:16:22,840
If it really is her, she'll be
living near a place called Baua,
176
00:16:22,840 --> 00:16:26,240
with a married name
of Mary Lekaltia.
177
00:16:26,240 --> 00:16:27,680
I've been given directions
178
00:16:27,680 --> 00:16:31,440
and driven out to the open flatlands
to speak to the community elders.
179
00:16:31,440 --> 00:16:34,280
We have a girl here.
I have a mystery.
180
00:16:34,280 --> 00:16:37,520
There's a girl here called
Mary Lesupai.
181
00:16:37,520 --> 00:16:40,360
This picture
of Mary was taken in 1984.
182
00:16:43,400 --> 00:16:47,960
You do? Chief Paul, you know
everybody! How old is she now?
183
00:16:51,720 --> 00:16:54,680
Yeah. Let's go,
let's go and meet her.
184
00:16:54,680 --> 00:16:56,480
Yeah, we go back?
185
00:17:15,960 --> 00:17:18,200
Oh, yes, yes OK.
Let's go and try there.
186
00:18:02,560 --> 00:18:05,760
Does she recognise this?
Is it her? What does she say?
187
00:18:12,600 --> 00:18:14,560
Does she recognise herself?
188
00:18:23,560 --> 00:18:26,000
Chief Paul, what was her
name before she was married?
189
00:18:28,480 --> 00:18:30,280
So this is the right name.
190
00:18:37,120 --> 00:18:39,760
She is the one, but she doesn't...
191
00:18:39,760 --> 00:18:41,680
Does she recognise it?
192
00:18:46,880 --> 00:18:49,000
It is her.
193
00:18:56,160 --> 00:19:00,240
Is it really?
It's definitely her. It is her.
194
00:19:03,840 --> 00:19:05,640
PRINTER BEEPS
195
00:19:05,640 --> 00:19:06,800
Why isn't it working?
196
00:19:15,280 --> 00:19:18,920
Chief Paul, how many children
does Mary now have?
197
00:19:22,440 --> 00:19:24,520
Eight children. Any grandchildren?
198
00:19:28,200 --> 00:19:31,600
Do any of Mary's boys have jobs
in the city,
199
00:19:31,600 --> 00:19:34,240
or do they all work with cattle?
200
00:19:34,240 --> 00:19:35,480
They're all cattlemen.
201
00:19:35,480 --> 00:19:36,760
PRINTER BEEPS
202
00:19:37,880 --> 00:19:42,680
"Remove the paper jam and press
the resume button on the printer,
203
00:19:42,680 --> 00:19:44,840
"reprint the page
you were printing."
204
00:19:52,520 --> 00:19:54,560
PRINTER BEEPS
205
00:19:58,400 --> 00:20:00,040
What do you think of that?
206
00:20:02,800 --> 00:20:05,160
'I couldn't understand at first why
207
00:20:05,160 --> 00:20:08,080
'Mary found it so hard
to identify herself.
208
00:20:08,080 --> 00:20:10,920
'I suppose I took it for granted
that most of us grow up
209
00:20:10,920 --> 00:20:14,560
'surrounded by family photographs
and pictures of our childhood,
210
00:20:14,560 --> 00:20:17,000
'images that remind
ourselves of how we looked
211
00:20:17,000 --> 00:20:19,920
'and reinforce our self-identity.'
212
00:20:19,920 --> 00:20:21,800
Mary, your picture.
213
00:20:25,240 --> 00:20:28,600
Incredibly concentrated look
that Mary has,
214
00:20:28,600 --> 00:20:31,120
looking back 30 years,
215
00:20:31,120 --> 00:20:33,640
seems to be bringing back
very deep memories.
216
00:20:37,280 --> 00:20:40,800
'Mary still lives with cattle,
but like Ndito,
217
00:20:40,800 --> 00:20:44,600
'she too now lives in a permanent
homestead with her family.
218
00:20:45,840 --> 00:20:49,520
'Time on the move with her
herds is now largely
219
00:20:49,520 --> 00:20:51,440
'a thing of the past
for the Samburu.
220
00:20:58,520 --> 00:21:01,160
'Our continued search led us
221
00:21:01,160 --> 00:21:05,680
'out to the furthest
reaches of Kenya's northern deserts.
222
00:21:05,680 --> 00:21:09,760
'But we still had no news
of the other three Samburu women.
223
00:21:16,680 --> 00:21:20,920
'Across the rest of Africa,
a good number of pastoralist tribes
224
00:21:20,920 --> 00:21:24,880
'continue to move with their herds
in constant search of grazing.
225
00:21:24,880 --> 00:21:29,000
'Some of these pastoralist groups
still live very traditional
226
00:21:29,000 --> 00:21:32,920
'lives and seem to be almost immune
to the city's strong magnetic pull.
227
00:21:34,760 --> 00:21:37,280
'To find these people today,
228
00:21:37,280 --> 00:21:40,360
'I have to head much further
out into the heart of Africa.
229
00:21:46,000 --> 00:21:49,000
'One group I've been keen to
photograph for a very long
230
00:21:49,000 --> 00:21:51,360
'time is the Mundari.
231
00:21:51,360 --> 00:21:54,800
'But their newly-independent
country of South Sudan has been
232
00:21:54,800 --> 00:21:59,040
'blighted by civil war
and turmoil for over 30 years.
233
00:21:59,040 --> 00:22:02,520
'There's no knowing what
kind of reception I'll get from a
234
00:22:02,520 --> 00:22:06,160
'people whose entire lives have been
dominated by bloodshed and war.'
235
00:22:08,160 --> 00:22:10,080
Look at this.
236
00:22:10,080 --> 00:22:13,000
'The camps where the Mundari
keep their herds in amongst
237
00:22:13,000 --> 00:22:15,440
'the Nile tributaries are often
very remote
238
00:22:15,440 --> 00:22:17,840
'and totally inaccessible to
vehicles.'
239
00:22:21,320 --> 00:22:23,160
Good morning.
240
00:22:23,160 --> 00:22:25,800
Madak? Madan. Madan.
241
00:22:25,800 --> 00:22:27,360
Madan.
242
00:22:30,080 --> 00:22:32,240
Madan. Hey! Hello.
243
00:22:32,240 --> 00:22:33,720
Madan.
244
00:22:36,680 --> 00:22:38,160
Madan.
245
00:22:38,160 --> 00:22:41,240
Salaam.
246
00:22:43,200 --> 00:22:45,160
Wow! This is a great camp!
247
00:22:45,160 --> 00:22:47,200
Fantastic!
248
00:22:47,200 --> 00:22:48,720
Salaam. Madan.
249
00:22:48,720 --> 00:22:53,720
Madan.
250
00:22:53,720 --> 00:22:57,760
Ah, madan. So, where is the head
man, Clement? Where is the head man?
251
00:22:57,760 --> 00:23:02,240
SPEAKS IN LOCAL LANGUAGE
252
00:23:02,240 --> 00:23:03,880
This is the head man?
253
00:23:03,880 --> 00:23:05,640
Ah, excellent. Madan.
254
00:23:05,640 --> 00:23:07,480
How are you?
255
00:23:07,480 --> 00:23:09,280
What's his name, Clement?
256
00:23:09,280 --> 00:23:11,000
SPEAKS IN LOCAL LANGUAGE
257
00:23:11,000 --> 00:23:12,840
He's called Loku. Loku.
258
00:23:12,840 --> 00:23:14,760
Loku.
259
00:23:14,760 --> 00:23:16,560
Clement, can you ask Loku
260
00:23:16,560 --> 00:23:19,440
if we can do some
photography in his camp today?
261
00:23:43,360 --> 00:23:45,120
How does he feel about that?
262
00:23:45,120 --> 00:23:48,080
SPEAKS LOCAL LANGUAGE
263
00:24:00,080 --> 00:24:02,680
How does he feel about that?
264
00:24:04,800 --> 00:24:07,680
They're welcoming it?
265
00:24:07,680 --> 00:24:11,160
But, Clement, he doesn't seem very
happy. Is he happy?
266
00:24:18,600 --> 00:24:20,440
Which is his camp? This one.
267
00:24:23,520 --> 00:24:25,840
From here to there.
From here to there.
268
00:24:25,840 --> 00:24:28,840
And the other leader is down there?
Yes.
269
00:24:28,840 --> 00:24:30,680
Shall we start at this end?
270
00:24:31,840 --> 00:24:34,120
So just make sure that
we're in his camp.
271
00:24:34,120 --> 00:24:35,680
Thank you, thank you.
272
00:24:40,080 --> 00:24:41,480
OK.
273
00:24:41,480 --> 00:24:43,040
Very good.
274
00:24:44,720 --> 00:24:46,040
Excuse me.
275
00:24:54,960 --> 00:24:56,600
Thank you.
276
00:24:56,600 --> 00:24:59,480
Thank you very much. That's good.
Thank you.
277
00:25:03,920 --> 00:25:06,960
It's inside there, but I have
to take it back to process
278
00:25:06,960 --> 00:25:11,000
it in the laboratory in England
and then it comes out.
279
00:25:11,000 --> 00:25:14,000
HE TRANSLATES
280
00:25:26,720 --> 00:25:29,440
Not sure
whether he understood that one.
281
00:25:46,800 --> 00:25:50,640
Have a look.
282
00:25:50,640 --> 00:25:52,240
Look.
283
00:25:53,680 --> 00:25:56,840
Can you see? Beautiful?
284
00:25:56,840 --> 00:25:59,320
Huh?
285
00:26:00,760 --> 00:26:03,800
OK, one second.
286
00:26:03,800 --> 00:26:05,880
I love your hat.
287
00:26:05,880 --> 00:26:07,680
Fantastic hat!
288
00:26:37,560 --> 00:26:39,480
How many cattle do they have?
289
00:26:44,560 --> 00:26:46,920
Wow! Really? For a bride?
290
00:26:46,920 --> 00:26:48,480
Yes.
291
00:26:48,480 --> 00:26:52,640
How does...
How do you make the hair like that?
292
00:27:25,600 --> 00:27:29,320
And when the Dinka come to raid
the cattle, what do they use?
293
00:27:29,320 --> 00:27:32,520
Do they use spears or clubs?
How do they defend the cattle?
294
00:27:33,640 --> 00:27:36,720
LAUGHTER
295
00:27:46,960 --> 00:27:50,720
That's fantastic. Look at that.
Wow!
296
00:27:50,720 --> 00:27:53,520
And do they have
lots of spears here? Yes.
297
00:27:53,520 --> 00:27:55,040
Yeah.
298
00:27:57,840 --> 00:28:00,240
'During the dry season,
young Mundari men
299
00:28:00,240 --> 00:28:03,400
'and women leave their villages
and take their herds
300
00:28:03,400 --> 00:28:08,320
'down to the flood plains around
the Nile, in search of pasture.
301
00:28:08,320 --> 00:28:11,440
'They spend all day out grazing,
but before nightfall,
302
00:28:11,440 --> 00:28:13,720
'the animals return to
camps for protection.'
303
00:28:34,520 --> 00:28:37,640
An absolutely incredibly
magical moment.
304
00:28:37,640 --> 00:28:39,680
All the cattle coming back at dusk.
305
00:28:39,680 --> 00:28:42,400
And they come in,
there's about 1,000 in this camp,
306
00:28:42,400 --> 00:28:45,320
and each cow turns to the same peg
it was the night before.
307
00:28:45,320 --> 00:28:49,200
In fact, where it always goes. They
know exactly where they belong.
308
00:28:49,200 --> 00:28:52,000
It's just, they're creatures
of habit.
309
00:28:52,000 --> 00:28:55,880
The Mundari have this incredible
bond with their cattle. They just...
310
00:28:55,880 --> 00:29:00,080
I mean, they're treated like family.
They ARE family.
311
00:29:00,080 --> 00:29:03,880
What's happening is that the girls
just wait in the little circle
312
00:29:03,880 --> 00:29:07,000
of pegs, waiting for the particular
cows to come back
313
00:29:07,000 --> 00:29:11,360
and then they just put a noose round
their neck, peg them to the ground.
314
00:29:11,360 --> 00:29:13,560
And that's that.
315
00:29:13,560 --> 00:29:15,360
Moored for the night.
316
00:29:19,760 --> 00:29:22,720
It's fantastic.
Incredible sense of order about it.
317
00:29:25,920 --> 00:29:29,400
Like parking cars.
Absolutely incredible.
318
00:29:47,680 --> 00:29:50,800
'Back in the Mundari villages,
the elders,
319
00:29:50,800 --> 00:29:53,600
'as well as the mothers
and small children,
320
00:29:53,600 --> 00:29:57,160
'are waiting for the rains to
arrive, so they can begin planting.'
321
00:30:13,840 --> 00:30:15,920
25 cows for his wife?
322
00:30:18,360 --> 00:30:19,560
I'm sorry?
323
00:30:19,560 --> 00:30:23,240
They're still demanding more?
How long ago did he get married?
324
00:30:30,920 --> 00:30:34,280
30 years and he still
is in debt for his wife?
325
00:30:34,280 --> 00:30:37,640
That's a long time to be
paying for your wife.
326
00:30:48,920 --> 00:30:50,680
So this is for shooting people?
327
00:30:50,680 --> 00:30:54,520
They're nasty-looking arrows.
Has he shot a person with this?
328
00:31:06,480 --> 00:31:09,720
It's a secret.
A secret, how many people...
329
00:31:09,720 --> 00:31:13,360
Um... Can we have his permission
to camp tonight here?
330
00:31:13,360 --> 00:31:15,880
Just tonight.
We'll leave in the morning.
331
00:31:19,520 --> 00:31:22,160
He says you go to his home.
332
00:31:38,920 --> 00:31:42,240
It's incredibly kind of this
family just to let me
333
00:31:42,240 --> 00:31:44,400
pitch a tent in their compound.
334
00:31:44,400 --> 00:31:48,000
Can't imagine in England if you
walked into somebody's back yard
335
00:31:48,000 --> 00:31:51,600
and said, "Can I pitch my tent?"
you'd get quite such a warm welcome.
336
00:32:06,000 --> 00:32:09,280
'Rain has finally brought
relief for the Mundari.
337
00:32:10,680 --> 00:32:13,320
'But within a few days,
roads will be impassable
338
00:32:13,320 --> 00:32:15,480
'and bridges washed away.
339
00:32:15,480 --> 00:32:19,040
'Mundari land will remain cut off
and inaccessible for months.
340
00:32:21,480 --> 00:32:24,920
'Such isolation from outside
influence has certainly
341
00:32:24,920 --> 00:32:28,160
'played its part in retaining
Mundari culture.
342
00:32:30,760 --> 00:32:34,200
'But there are not many
parts of Africa where the powerful
343
00:32:34,200 --> 00:32:36,280
'lure of city life is not felt.
344
00:32:48,440 --> 00:32:51,040
'The whole continent is on the move.
345
00:32:51,040 --> 00:32:53,800
'All about,
I see people rooted in their past,
346
00:32:53,800 --> 00:32:57,160
'yet propelled forward
towards an urban future.
347
00:33:58,280 --> 00:34:02,200
'Everyone in the city is here
to earn their living.
348
00:34:02,200 --> 00:34:05,440
'Hand-painted signs advertise
what's for sale.
349
00:34:05,440 --> 00:34:09,160
'These shop front murals began
life by being a very clear
350
00:34:09,160 --> 00:34:12,760
'and effective way to communicate
across a vast population
351
00:34:12,760 --> 00:34:16,520
'composed of so many different
tribal languages.
352
00:34:16,520 --> 00:34:21,120
'The signs of goods and services
for sale promise a new and exciting
353
00:34:21,120 --> 00:34:24,400
'life to many rural people
coming in from the countryside.'
354
00:34:37,920 --> 00:34:41,560
I've done restaurants, butchers,
355
00:34:41,560 --> 00:34:43,760
salons, shops.
356
00:34:43,760 --> 00:34:48,600
Is it a satisfying job? It is really
satisfying, but really annoying.
357
00:34:48,600 --> 00:34:50,800
HE LAUGHS
358
00:34:50,800 --> 00:34:55,360
They want it to be this way...
I want it to be like a brown face...
359
00:34:55,360 --> 00:34:57,440
I want it to be yellow face!
360
00:34:57,440 --> 00:35:00,240
So this man,
is he happy with this one?
361
00:35:00,240 --> 00:35:03,160
He is so happy,
but maybe 95% happy.
362
00:35:03,160 --> 00:35:06,040
The 5%, like,
"Please, can you come tomorrow
363
00:35:06,040 --> 00:35:08,520
"and fix the eyes a little bit?"
364
00:35:16,160 --> 00:35:20,440
'The city certainly is
the place to come and make money.
365
00:35:20,440 --> 00:35:24,520
'But just 100 miles from this
densely packed metropolis,
366
00:35:24,520 --> 00:35:27,920
'there's a group of people who
resist the draw of the city
367
00:35:27,920 --> 00:35:31,080
'and for whom money has no
value or use at all.
368
00:35:51,240 --> 00:35:54,600
'The Hadzabe are one of the very few
African groups who still
369
00:35:54,600 --> 00:35:58,440
'survive entirely as
hunter-gatherers.
370
00:35:58,440 --> 00:36:02,920
'They, like pastoralists and nomads,
cling resolutely to a traditional
371
00:36:02,920 --> 00:36:06,520
'way of life, while the rest
of Africa changes all about them.
372
00:36:13,400 --> 00:36:18,280
'The Hadzabe are masters of survival
in this harsh land of theirs.
373
00:36:18,280 --> 00:36:23,400
'They find drinking water
high in baobab.
374
00:36:23,400 --> 00:36:27,040
'A pool of rainwater has collected,
way up in the hollow of the tree.
375
00:36:35,240 --> 00:36:38,600
'Hadzabe hunting weapons have
changed little with time.
376
00:36:41,080 --> 00:36:45,920
'Their bows and arrow shafts are
made from a sturdy local tree.
377
00:36:45,920 --> 00:36:50,960
'Their feather flights are taken
from hawk and guinea fowl wings.
378
00:36:50,960 --> 00:36:53,200
'And their arrowheads are tipped
379
00:36:53,200 --> 00:36:55,600
'with a poison brewed
from a toxic plant.'
380
00:37:38,760 --> 00:37:42,360
'Golfani's band of hunters have
no means of storage.
381
00:37:42,360 --> 00:37:45,400
'They rely entirely on what can be
harvested in a single day.
382
00:37:47,840 --> 00:37:49,520
'And they have no use for money,
383
00:37:49,520 --> 00:37:52,720
'because their currency
is their skill as hunters.'
384
00:38:02,080 --> 00:38:05,240
But across Africa,
only a few groups of people
385
00:38:05,240 --> 00:38:07,400
still manage to survive
as hunter-gatherers.
386
00:38:11,360 --> 00:38:14,080
The Batwa pygmies of
the East African forest
387
00:38:14,080 --> 00:38:17,120
have been, for the most part,
squeezed off their land,
388
00:38:17,120 --> 00:38:20,880
and are now living in refuge
on the edges of small towns.
389
00:38:24,840 --> 00:38:28,280
The Khoisan bushmen of the
Kalahari are equally threatened.
390
00:38:35,640 --> 00:38:38,760
The Waata of Tsavo, who
once lived by hunting elephants,
391
00:38:38,760 --> 00:38:41,320
have long been forced
to give up hunting.
392
00:38:44,960 --> 00:38:48,000
The Hadzabe, meanwhile,
cling to a tradition
393
00:38:48,000 --> 00:38:50,440
that's now virtually
extinct across the continent.
394
00:38:53,400 --> 00:38:57,360
'I'd photographed Onka'a and his
band of hunters on a previous visit.
395
00:38:57,360 --> 00:38:59,720
'I now had their portraits
for them.'
396
00:40:48,680 --> 00:40:52,760
Golfani's hunters are preparing
for a baboon hunt, tomorrow at dawn.
397
00:40:55,920 --> 00:40:58,400
Baboons are highly-prized
by the Hadzabe,
398
00:40:58,400 --> 00:41:00,840
and they're exceptionally
difficult to hunt.
399
00:41:02,600 --> 00:41:05,680
A young man, in order to
demonstrate his skill as a hunter
400
00:41:05,680 --> 00:41:08,960
and prove that he will be capable
of supporting a wife and family,
401
00:41:08,960 --> 00:41:11,800
must shoot at least five baboons.
402
00:42:04,240 --> 00:42:06,440
BABOON BARKS
403
00:42:44,360 --> 00:42:47,800
BIRD CAWS
404
00:43:26,800 --> 00:43:28,520
BANG!
405
00:43:28,520 --> 00:43:31,800
SQUEALING
406
00:43:40,920 --> 00:43:43,760
SHOUTING
407
00:44:17,240 --> 00:44:19,520
It's the whole story of the hunt.
408
00:44:19,520 --> 00:44:23,280
A whole re-enactment of the hunt
that he has just performed.
409
00:44:23,280 --> 00:44:25,320
It's a huge, huge,
alpha male baboon.
410
00:44:25,320 --> 00:44:27,240
That is food for the whole group.
411
00:44:27,240 --> 00:44:31,120
A baboon of this size is
a real cause for celebration.
412
00:45:18,440 --> 00:45:23,520
Fewer and fewer groups of people
in our world remain able
to practise their traditional ways.
413
00:45:23,520 --> 00:45:26,080
It may be just a matter of time
before the Hadzabe too
414
00:45:26,080 --> 00:45:29,400
will be forced to move towards
a homogenised, urban society.
415
00:45:31,000 --> 00:45:34,240
The anthropologist Margaret Mead
warned that one day,
416
00:45:34,240 --> 00:45:40,520
all human experience might be
reduced finally to an amorphous,
commercialised culture.
417
00:45:40,520 --> 00:45:43,360
Her worst nightmare was that
we would wake up one morning
418
00:45:43,360 --> 00:45:45,360
and not even remember
what we had lost.
419
00:45:59,120 --> 00:46:00,800
'Back in northern Kenya,
420
00:46:00,800 --> 00:46:03,320
'Kibiriti and I discovered
sad news about Elisa,
421
00:46:03,320 --> 00:46:05,960
'who was one of the five
young Samburu women
422
00:46:05,960 --> 00:46:07,440
'I had photographed in 1984.
423
00:46:09,200 --> 00:46:13,360
'Elisa had contracted HIV
and died of AIDS in the year 2000.'
424
00:47:02,800 --> 00:47:07,840
Generations of African children
have lost their parents to AIDS.
425
00:47:07,840 --> 00:47:09,720
The statistics for the disease
426
00:47:09,720 --> 00:47:12,240
in Sub-Saharan Africa tell
a terrifying story.
427
00:47:14,000 --> 00:47:18,680
On average, 169 people have died
every hour from AIDS
428
00:47:18,680 --> 00:47:20,600
for the last 15 years.
429
00:47:23,440 --> 00:47:26,840
The orphans are often left to be
raised by their grandparents.
430
00:47:39,960 --> 00:47:44,200
All over Samburu Land, clans are
gathering to perform a rare ceremony
431
00:47:44,200 --> 00:47:47,080
that only occurs once
every 10 or so years.
432
00:47:48,680 --> 00:47:51,960
It is a vitally important
rite of passage
433
00:47:51,960 --> 00:47:54,000
in a Samburu man's life.
434
00:47:54,000 --> 00:47:57,040
It marks the point that a
Moran, a man of warrior age,
435
00:47:57,040 --> 00:47:59,240
is initiated to become
a junior elder.
436
00:48:01,720 --> 00:48:04,360
This ceremony only takes place
once a decade,
437
00:48:04,360 --> 00:48:07,080
because it is the moment
each generation moves on.
438
00:48:07,080 --> 00:48:10,160
'All the young men together,
as a collective group.'
439
00:48:10,160 --> 00:48:11,920
Very good. Well done.
440
00:48:17,360 --> 00:48:22,960
'The initiation takes place
in a large, specially built corral.'
441
00:48:22,960 --> 00:48:26,000
Each of the Morans is staying
by their house at the moment.
442
00:48:26,000 --> 00:48:28,000
Yes, I see. Standing by.
443
00:48:32,360 --> 00:48:35,040
I don't know which one of these
cows is for the chop,
444
00:48:35,040 --> 00:48:42,520
but each of the 68 houses around
the perimeter has a young man
who is being initiated today.
445
00:48:44,680 --> 00:48:47,760
Each one has to sacrifice
an animal.
446
00:48:47,760 --> 00:48:50,680
HORN BLOWS
447
00:48:50,680 --> 00:48:53,440
'That's the signal
everyone's been waiting for.
448
00:49:01,720 --> 00:49:05,320
'It's a momentous
occasion for the Morans.
449
00:49:05,320 --> 00:49:07,320
'It's their last day as warriors.
450
00:49:07,320 --> 00:49:09,360
'A crucial turning point
in their lives.'
451
00:49:13,960 --> 00:49:15,760
It's all kicking off now.
452
00:49:15,760 --> 00:49:19,120
They're starting to get the cattle
out and moved to the area
453
00:49:19,120 --> 00:49:21,240
where they're going
to slaughter them.
454
00:49:34,200 --> 00:49:39,400
'The psychological pressure
of the moment is deeply felt
by the initiates.
455
00:49:39,400 --> 00:49:42,160
'Some are so overwhelmed
with emotion,
456
00:49:42,160 --> 00:49:46,040
'they collapse in violent seizures,
known by the Samburu as enduka.'
457
00:50:01,560 --> 00:50:04,360
The Samburu name for this ceremony
458
00:50:04,360 --> 00:50:07,640
translates as "the death of many
cattle in one place".
459
00:50:10,040 --> 00:50:12,800
No part of the sacrificed animals
will go to waste.
460
00:50:14,400 --> 00:50:18,440
Each cow's dewlap is carefully
skinned, the jugular pierced,
461
00:50:18,440 --> 00:50:20,480
and the initiates drink fresh blood.
462
00:50:37,360 --> 00:50:40,400
'This is vitally important
in the way that it reinforces
463
00:50:40,400 --> 00:50:43,680
'the initiates' bonds and commitment
to their clan and group.
464
00:50:46,160 --> 00:50:50,040
'But today, many Samburu manage
to balance their traditional roots
465
00:50:50,040 --> 00:50:53,520
'with an entirely different,
contemporary African lifestyle.
466
00:50:55,480 --> 00:50:58,280
'I was fascinated to meet
one of the initiates
467
00:50:58,280 --> 00:51:02,320
'who has a full-time job as an
officer in the Kenyan Air Force.'
468
00:51:02,320 --> 00:51:04,480
Why is this ceremony
so important to you?
469
00:51:16,120 --> 00:51:18,600
Being a warrior, a Moran?
470
00:51:24,240 --> 00:51:26,080
You'll be allowed to marry?
471
00:51:26,080 --> 00:51:28,920
And you will return
to your job in the Air Force? Yes.
472
00:51:37,840 --> 00:51:42,800
'He may hold a hi tech city job,
but it is still crucial for him
473
00:51:42,800 --> 00:51:46,360
'to join the rest of his
Samburu clan for the finale
of the ceremony.'
474
00:51:56,240 --> 00:52:00,760
'The dance increases
in volume and intensity.
475
00:52:00,760 --> 00:52:03,320
'Through its rhythm,
the dancers build themselves up
476
00:52:03,320 --> 00:52:05,680
'into a trance-like
state of consciousness.
477
00:52:08,920 --> 00:52:12,000
'As the tension mounts,
initiates start, once again,
478
00:52:12,000 --> 00:52:14,240
'to break down under
the emotional strain.'
479
00:52:28,800 --> 00:52:33,280
'While the initiate is carried off,
the dance continues.
480
00:52:33,280 --> 00:52:37,160
'The dance is all-important
and it cannot be interrupted.'
481
00:52:51,440 --> 00:52:53,800
'It is extraordinary to me
that these same dancers
482
00:52:53,800 --> 00:52:59,000
'one moment are entirely immersed
in this timeless ritual,
483
00:52:59,000 --> 00:53:00,960
'and the next,
they effortlessly navigate
484
00:53:00,960 --> 00:53:03,160
'the modern 21st-century world.
485
00:53:05,920 --> 00:53:09,200
'Many of these young men
are experienced internet users.
486
00:53:10,320 --> 00:53:12,840
'Some have created
Facebook profiles.
487
00:53:12,840 --> 00:53:15,280
'That in itself
may not be surprising.
488
00:53:15,280 --> 00:53:18,000
'What interests me, though,
is that on their homepages,
489
00:53:18,000 --> 00:53:22,000
'they have not posted images of
themselves as modern city dwellers.
490
00:53:22,000 --> 00:53:25,520
'Instead, they are dressed in
full traditional tribal regalia.'
491
00:53:35,160 --> 00:53:38,600
The duality of life here
cuts to the core of my passion
492
00:53:38,600 --> 00:53:42,080
to photograph Africa as it moves
between the past and the present.
493
00:53:45,240 --> 00:53:50,040
While the roots of so much
African culture have undergone
erosion and change,
494
00:53:50,040 --> 00:53:54,480
this ceremony is conducted
in a traditional way
and with total conviction.
495
00:54:01,720 --> 00:54:06,360
As I photograph this rite
of passage, I am very conscious
the world will be a decade older
496
00:54:06,360 --> 00:54:08,720
by the time the ceremony
comes round again.
497
00:54:12,080 --> 00:54:15,720
I can't help wondering if the
next generation of Samburu Morans
498
00:54:15,720 --> 00:54:20,160
will experience this ceremony
with such authentic intensity.
499
00:54:26,880 --> 00:54:28,240
Kibiriti has good news
500
00:54:28,240 --> 00:54:31,120
about one final woman from
the portraits I'd taken.
501
00:54:39,480 --> 00:54:42,040
Selina received word
someone was looking for her
502
00:54:42,040 --> 00:54:44,520
and she crossed the mountain
to search us out.
503
00:54:46,200 --> 00:54:50,400
She has carried a baby all the way
down that incredible mountain!
504
00:54:50,400 --> 00:54:53,160
And the baby is still asleep!
That is amazing!
505
00:54:55,680 --> 00:54:59,360
Oh, my God!
506
00:55:00,800 --> 00:55:02,320
Hello.
507
00:55:02,320 --> 00:55:06,800
HE GREETS HER IN HER OWN LANGUAGE
508
00:55:13,360 --> 00:55:16,200
Are any of these her?
509
00:55:19,960 --> 00:55:24,760
That's you? That is you!
Oh, that is beautiful.
510
00:55:32,280 --> 00:55:35,120
She remembers.
She does, she remembers that.
511
00:55:35,120 --> 00:55:37,880
That was 30 years ago,
that was in 1984.
512
00:55:37,880 --> 00:55:39,720
How many children do you now have?
513
00:55:42,320 --> 00:55:47,240
Seven children.
Is this your youngest child?
Oh, look, a little fella.
514
00:55:49,240 --> 00:55:54,240
He is fast asleep. That is
fantastic. Look, he is snoring!
515
00:55:56,120 --> 00:56:00,040
You can hear him snoring,
he is fast asleep.
516
00:56:11,160 --> 00:56:13,440
Right now, the present day.
517
00:56:13,440 --> 00:56:16,840
When she looks back,
was that a happy time?
518
00:56:25,240 --> 00:56:27,880
She prefers the present to the past.
519
00:56:27,880 --> 00:56:31,160
What about for the future, does
she feel positive about the future?
520
00:57:04,400 --> 00:57:08,560
'Of the five women we searched for,
it was a sad blow to hear
Elisa had died.
521
00:57:09,800 --> 00:57:13,600
'But managing to find three
of the women was far beyond
my expectations.
522
00:57:15,760 --> 00:57:19,440
'Since photographing them as girls,
they had raised families.
523
00:57:19,440 --> 00:57:23,400
'They were well,
and all three were grandmothers.
524
00:57:23,400 --> 00:57:26,160
'I'm inspired by their resilience.
525
00:57:26,160 --> 00:57:29,760
'The bedrock of Samburu culture
does appear to have survived
526
00:57:29,760 --> 00:57:32,280
'the pressures of a changing Africa.
527
00:57:32,280 --> 00:57:37,400
'What strikes me most was
the way each of the women preferred
to be living in the present,
528
00:57:37,400 --> 00:57:40,800
'as opposed to looking back at their
past, or ahead to their future.
529
00:57:42,280 --> 00:57:45,480
'That's a quality I value
and admire enormously.'
530
00:57:48,120 --> 00:57:50,320
There is one girl
we were unable to trace.
531
00:57:51,800 --> 00:57:54,960
Nakwan, we were told,
had moved to the city.
532
00:57:54,960 --> 00:57:58,400
The details of her life and her
whereabouts remain a mystery.
533
00:58:02,440 --> 00:58:09,080
One of the things I find totally
surprising is that two of those
women had travelled so little.
534
00:58:09,080 --> 00:58:14,280
They were still within a few miles
of where I had photographed them,
30 years ago.
535
00:58:15,360 --> 00:58:16,880
How do you explain that?
536
00:58:16,880 --> 00:58:18,560
In Swahili, we say that...
537
00:58:18,560 --> 00:58:22,200
HE SPEAKS IN SWAHILI
538
00:58:22,200 --> 00:58:23,920
How do you say?
539
00:58:26,120 --> 00:58:31,840
The fruit doesn't fall far from the
tree. It's the same in English!
540
00:58:31,840 --> 00:58:33,160
Kibiriti...
541
00:58:33,160 --> 00:58:37,200
THEY SAY THEIR GOODBYES
44993
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