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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:02,080 --> 00:00:06,600 I've been making natural history films for over 60 years 2 00:00:06,600 --> 00:00:10,800 and, in the process, I've been to some very interesting places 3 00:00:10,800 --> 00:00:13,760 but, every now and again, I've been allowed to make a film 4 00:00:13,760 --> 00:00:16,480 about my other enthusiasms - 5 00:00:16,480 --> 00:00:18,160 about the history of exploration, 6 00:00:18,160 --> 00:00:22,720 about tribal objects or the life of a great scientist. 7 00:00:22,720 --> 00:00:25,360 You could call them my Passion Projects. 8 00:00:57,200 --> 00:01:02,400 In 1971, I joined an expedition into a patch of unknown territory 9 00:01:02,400 --> 00:01:05,120 in the heart of Papua New Guinea, 10 00:01:05,120 --> 00:01:08,800 and made a film about it, which we called Blank On The Map. 11 00:01:11,680 --> 00:01:16,160 Nobody, as far as I knew, had ever recorded on film the method 12 00:01:16,160 --> 00:01:22,480 whereby, for 500, 600 years, the rest of the world had been explored. 13 00:01:22,480 --> 00:01:26,320 For all that period of time, if you wanted to explore Africa, 14 00:01:26,320 --> 00:01:30,080 and you were a European, you got on a boat and got off. 15 00:01:30,080 --> 00:01:31,960 If you were lucky, there might be horses, 16 00:01:31,960 --> 00:01:34,480 but there were great parts of Africa where there weren't - 17 00:01:34,480 --> 00:01:36,240 and, if there were no horses, 18 00:01:36,240 --> 00:01:39,120 there was no internal combustion engine - you walked. 19 00:01:39,120 --> 00:01:41,880 There was no other way of doing it. 20 00:01:41,880 --> 00:01:45,280 I thought it was really very, very romantic 21 00:01:45,280 --> 00:01:48,040 and, if you were going into a country that you didn't know, 22 00:01:48,040 --> 00:01:53,480 you would have to take stores, often with a carrier line of 100 porters, 23 00:01:53,480 --> 00:01:57,240 and there was only one place in the world where you could still do that, 24 00:01:57,240 --> 00:01:59,680 and that was in New Guinea. 25 00:01:59,680 --> 00:02:02,400 And I'd told friends of mine in Australia, 26 00:02:02,400 --> 00:02:06,040 "If you discover that anybody's going to do another 27 00:02:06,040 --> 00:02:10,800 "one of these long trips, I would love to make a record of it." 28 00:02:10,800 --> 00:02:14,720 And, after a couple of years of administrating in the BBC, 29 00:02:14,720 --> 00:02:16,760 the message came from my pals, 30 00:02:16,760 --> 00:02:19,880 "We've got a trip going on. It may be the last ever." 31 00:02:19,880 --> 00:02:23,400 And so I said, "Right," and arranged to go. 32 00:02:31,080 --> 00:02:35,160 These arrows and this bow belong to a man 33 00:02:35,160 --> 00:02:39,360 who has never seen a European face. 34 00:02:39,360 --> 00:02:41,440 So does this house. 35 00:02:41,440 --> 00:02:44,360 I'm in the middle of Central New Guinea, 36 00:02:44,360 --> 00:02:47,400 and these wonderful mountains all around 37 00:02:47,400 --> 00:02:50,840 are one of the few places left on the surface of the earth 38 00:02:50,840 --> 00:02:52,600 that are truly unexplored. 39 00:02:52,600 --> 00:02:56,600 BIRDS SCREECH AND CHIRP 40 00:03:08,760 --> 00:03:11,080 Until only a few months ago, 41 00:03:11,080 --> 00:03:14,240 it was thought that this area of Central New Guinea 42 00:03:14,240 --> 00:03:16,520 was completely uninhabited, 43 00:03:16,520 --> 00:03:19,240 and then Laurie Bragg, the assistant district commissioner 44 00:03:19,240 --> 00:03:21,720 who's responsible for this part of the island, 45 00:03:21,720 --> 00:03:23,800 was looking at some aerial photographs 46 00:03:23,800 --> 00:03:26,120 that had been taken to try and map this area, 47 00:03:26,120 --> 00:03:30,400 to make sense out of this tangle of mountain ranges and rivers. 48 00:03:30,400 --> 00:03:35,160 And on the photographs, he saw one or two tiny little pinpoints, 49 00:03:35,160 --> 00:03:37,240 which indicated to him that there, 50 00:03:37,240 --> 00:03:41,720 there were gardens like this one, and houses and people - 51 00:03:41,720 --> 00:03:46,240 people who had not been contacted ever by the outside world. 52 00:03:46,240 --> 00:03:50,640 And so, it was decided to send an expedition to try and find them. 53 00:03:50,640 --> 00:03:53,720 AEROPLANE WHIRS 54 00:03:57,280 --> 00:04:01,200 Aeroplanes first arrived in this country way back in the '20s. 55 00:04:01,200 --> 00:04:04,280 The island of New Guinea is immense - 1,500 miles long, 56 00:04:04,280 --> 00:04:06,840 lying between Australia and the equator, 57 00:04:06,840 --> 00:04:11,520 and 50 years ago, its interior was virtually blank on the map. 58 00:04:11,520 --> 00:04:15,920 The aeroplane has, ever since, been a key tool in filling in that blank. 59 00:04:15,920 --> 00:04:18,720 Sometimes by dropping supplies to explorers 60 00:04:18,720 --> 00:04:20,920 who had marched for weeks on end. 61 00:04:20,920 --> 00:04:24,800 Sometimes by dumping men on a sandbank by an unknown river. 62 00:04:24,800 --> 00:04:28,320 Sometimes, as now, by giving a man like Laurie Bragg 63 00:04:28,320 --> 00:04:32,720 a view of what lies ahead of him before he sets off into new country, 64 00:04:32,720 --> 00:04:35,680 and the view could hardly be described as welcoming - 65 00:04:35,680 --> 00:04:38,440 an unbroken carpet of green corduroy, 66 00:04:38,440 --> 00:04:42,200 jungle as thick and as sticky as you can find anywhere. 67 00:04:42,200 --> 00:04:45,760 PLANE HUMS 68 00:04:48,080 --> 00:04:51,040 - Does the river look OK for the canoes? - Oh, yes. 69 00:04:51,040 --> 00:04:53,440 There doesn't seem to be very many snags. It is... 70 00:04:53,440 --> 00:04:57,720 It's hard to tell the current from here, but it looks pretty good. 71 00:04:57,720 --> 00:05:00,160 How many times have you been up this river? 72 00:05:00,160 --> 00:05:02,720 - I haven't. - Oh. Has anybody? 73 00:05:02,720 --> 00:05:06,280 They've been to this next group of people, but not beyond. 74 00:05:12,000 --> 00:05:14,200 There's a village. 75 00:05:14,200 --> 00:05:17,000 It's the last known one. 76 00:05:20,000 --> 00:05:22,520 You can start to see some snags in the river now. 77 00:05:22,520 --> 00:05:25,200 Getting a bit marginal for canoes now. 78 00:05:25,200 --> 00:05:28,200 There look as though there are some bad rapids there. 79 00:05:28,200 --> 00:05:30,080 Will we get as high as this? 80 00:05:30,080 --> 00:05:32,360 We won't get canoes anywhere near here. 81 00:05:36,480 --> 00:05:39,960 I'm just trying to pick out that garden area I saw a minute ago. 82 00:05:42,640 --> 00:05:44,480 There is a big garden complex 83 00:05:44,480 --> 00:05:48,760 underneath the top of this mountain over here. 84 00:05:48,760 --> 00:05:53,120 - Is that everything you want to see? - Yeah, except for clouds. 85 00:05:57,800 --> 00:06:00,960 Back at his base at Ambunti on the Sepik River, 86 00:06:00,960 --> 00:06:02,840 Laurie Bragg developed his plans 87 00:06:02,840 --> 00:06:04,520 in the light of what he had seen 88 00:06:04,520 --> 00:06:07,160 for a major patrol into those unknown mountains 89 00:06:07,160 --> 00:06:09,360 to discover just what was there. 90 00:06:09,360 --> 00:06:12,080 We'll move from Ambunti here, 91 00:06:12,080 --> 00:06:16,160 downstream along the Sepik in two workboats, 92 00:06:16,160 --> 00:06:18,600 the Opal and the Sapphire, 93 00:06:18,600 --> 00:06:22,080 and come into the Karawari River here. 94 00:06:22,080 --> 00:06:25,360 Follow the Karawari upstream into the Korosameri. 95 00:06:25,360 --> 00:06:29,560 The work boats should get to about here somewhere. 96 00:06:29,560 --> 00:06:34,000 And then the river will be too shallow for the work boat, 97 00:06:34,000 --> 00:06:36,600 and the canoes will shuttle us 98 00:06:36,600 --> 00:06:40,880 and the rations and patrol gear up to approximately here, 99 00:06:40,880 --> 00:06:45,640 where I think we'll run out of sufficient depth of water 100 00:06:45,640 --> 00:06:49,200 to take canoes, and from there, we'll have to walk. 101 00:06:49,200 --> 00:06:52,680 - What's the walking going to be like? - It's going to be very difficult. 102 00:06:52,680 --> 00:06:58,040 - Is it? - Yes, if we have a look at the - aerial photographs of the area... 103 00:06:58,040 --> 00:07:01,480 - I don't want to shock you or anything. - Ha-ha! 104 00:07:06,160 --> 00:07:08,920 - That's the Salamei river. - Yeah. 105 00:07:08,920 --> 00:07:11,320 We won't get that far with the canoes. 106 00:07:11,320 --> 00:07:14,200 We'll have to walk from down below here somewhere. 107 00:07:15,440 --> 00:07:18,520 Be moving up along this to that junction there. 108 00:07:18,520 --> 00:07:21,160 - Yeah. - Which I don't know what it's called. 109 00:07:21,160 --> 00:07:24,080 And then we'll get on to this ridge 110 00:07:24,080 --> 00:07:27,800 and follow that to the crest of the Salamei April Divide. 111 00:07:29,480 --> 00:07:33,400 - Now, you can see garden areas there. - Yes. - See them? - Yeah. 112 00:07:33,400 --> 00:07:36,840 And establish ourselves on that ridge somewhere 113 00:07:36,840 --> 00:07:40,640 - where we find people. - Mm. - And let the people come to us. 114 00:07:40,640 --> 00:07:43,920 Patrols have been the means of administering this country 115 00:07:43,920 --> 00:07:47,360 ever since Europeans first settled here. Every few months, 116 00:07:47,360 --> 00:07:49,440 government officers like Laurie Bragg 117 00:07:49,440 --> 00:07:51,640 take a handful of armed native police, 118 00:07:51,640 --> 00:07:54,200 leave their stations, and travel for weeks, 119 00:07:54,200 --> 00:07:56,480 visiting the people in their territory. 120 00:07:56,480 --> 00:07:59,240 In the settled areas, they see that schools are started 121 00:07:59,240 --> 00:08:02,680 and roads built and that the people get some sort of medical help, 122 00:08:02,680 --> 00:08:04,680 even if it's pretty simple. 123 00:08:04,680 --> 00:08:07,360 In the wilder parts, the job's more dramatic. 124 00:08:07,360 --> 00:08:11,400 Tribal feuds must be stopped and elementary law established. 125 00:08:11,400 --> 00:08:13,840 This particular patrol would be different 126 00:08:13,840 --> 00:08:16,560 only because in addition to doing all that, 127 00:08:16,560 --> 00:08:19,400 it was going to walk slap across one of the last 128 00:08:19,400 --> 00:08:21,840 of those empty blank patches on the map 129 00:08:21,840 --> 00:08:24,560 to try and sort out its geography on the ground 130 00:08:24,560 --> 00:08:27,040 and, if possible, contact the inhabitants 131 00:08:27,040 --> 00:08:29,240 who so far have never seen Europeans. 132 00:08:38,400 --> 00:08:42,360 40 years ago, the Sepik River was notorious for its head-hunters. 133 00:08:42,360 --> 00:08:45,360 Indeed, it was news of a spectacular headhunting raid 134 00:08:45,360 --> 00:08:49,280 that made the government decide to establish the station at Ambunti, 135 00:08:49,280 --> 00:08:53,920 240 miles up the Sepik River, in what was then the Dark Interior. 136 00:08:53,920 --> 00:08:57,240 The men of one village had raided their neighbours, 137 00:08:57,240 --> 00:09:00,400 lopped off 28 heads, boiled them and scraped them, 138 00:09:00,400 --> 00:09:01,960 moulded them with clay, 139 00:09:01,960 --> 00:09:05,320 and then stuck them up for display in the cult house. 140 00:09:05,320 --> 00:09:08,640 Even today, it's not unusual to hear of a ritual murder or two 141 00:09:08,640 --> 00:09:10,120 in the remoter parts, 142 00:09:10,120 --> 00:09:13,880 away from the main river and the eye of the government. 143 00:09:13,880 --> 00:09:17,520 90 miles downstream from Ambunti, we left the Sepik 144 00:09:17,520 --> 00:09:20,840 and turned into a tributary that came in from the south. 145 00:09:20,840 --> 00:09:24,600 This river was shallower and hemmed in by rafts of floating reeds, 146 00:09:24,600 --> 00:09:26,480 so we had to leave the two big boats 147 00:09:26,480 --> 00:09:30,760 and carry on in three dugout canoes, fitted with outboard motors. 148 00:09:30,760 --> 00:09:33,080 On the Sepik, we had seen quite a lot of people 149 00:09:33,080 --> 00:09:35,280 travelling along the river in canoes. 150 00:09:35,280 --> 00:09:37,080 But here, there was no-one, 151 00:09:37,080 --> 00:09:40,400 just flocks of ducks and eagles and herons. 152 00:09:47,440 --> 00:09:49,000 After three days of travel, 153 00:09:49,000 --> 00:09:53,600 we came in to land at the last known village on this river, Inaru. 154 00:09:53,600 --> 00:09:57,600 This was the end of the easy bit. From now on, we shall be walking. 155 00:09:59,120 --> 00:10:02,920 Patrols only come up as far as Inaru about once a year, 156 00:10:02,920 --> 00:10:04,760 and none had ever been beyond it. 157 00:10:04,760 --> 00:10:08,480 For the villagers, therefore, our arrival was an important event, 158 00:10:08,480 --> 00:10:11,120 and since there were only about 50 of them, 159 00:10:11,120 --> 00:10:14,560 we represented a massive, almost overwhelming, invasion. 160 00:10:33,920 --> 00:10:36,480 The people of Inaru live very simply. 161 00:10:36,480 --> 00:10:38,200 They plant a few vegetables, 162 00:10:38,200 --> 00:10:42,800 but they rely heavily on the forest to supply them with fruit and meat. 163 00:10:42,800 --> 00:10:47,200 The river provides them with fish, mostly black bony catfish, 164 00:10:47,200 --> 00:10:50,840 and, once a year, it presents them with an enormous bonanza. 165 00:10:50,840 --> 00:10:55,280 Mayflies. For three days, millions of them hatch 166 00:10:55,280 --> 00:10:59,240 and rise to swirl in blizzards over the surface of the water. 167 00:10:59,240 --> 00:11:02,400 No-one knows what particular chemistry in the river 168 00:11:02,400 --> 00:11:05,000 or change in the climate causes all of them 169 00:11:05,000 --> 00:11:08,960 to emerge at the same time in this extraordinary fashion, 170 00:11:08,960 --> 00:11:11,120 but the Inaru people know well enough 171 00:11:11,120 --> 00:11:14,800 that this limitless gift of food will only be here for a day or so. 172 00:11:18,600 --> 00:11:21,760 The newly hatched insects are soft and juicy, 173 00:11:21,760 --> 00:11:24,560 and, eaten still wriggling, just like oysters. 174 00:11:24,560 --> 00:11:28,160 Our porters relished them, just as the villagers did. 175 00:11:28,160 --> 00:11:32,600 Life in the jungle may look as though it's blissful and untroubled, 176 00:11:32,600 --> 00:11:35,320 Adam and Eve in a primitive paradise, 177 00:11:35,320 --> 00:11:40,160 but, in fact, only too often, it's scourged by disease. 178 00:11:40,160 --> 00:11:44,680 The headman had a tropical ulcer on his foot the size of a golf ball. 179 00:11:44,680 --> 00:11:48,160 There were cases of yaws and malaria and skin fungus, 180 00:11:48,160 --> 00:11:51,840 all diseases easily treated by the medicines that we had with us - 181 00:11:51,840 --> 00:11:54,520 and the villagers knew that perfectly well, 182 00:11:54,520 --> 00:11:57,560 and were certainly delighted to see us. 183 00:11:57,560 --> 00:12:00,120 Communication, however, was not easy. 184 00:12:00,120 --> 00:12:04,000 Astonishingly, there are over 1,000 mutually incomprehensible 185 00:12:04,000 --> 00:12:05,720 languages in New Guinea. 186 00:12:05,720 --> 00:12:08,600 The Inaru language is only spoken by these people 187 00:12:08,600 --> 00:12:11,360 and two other villages - about 200 people in all. 188 00:12:17,440 --> 00:12:21,000 If we were to meet any new people on the journey ahead, 189 00:12:21,000 --> 00:12:23,720 interpreters would obviously be invaluable, 190 00:12:23,720 --> 00:12:26,480 but plans to get them had already run into snags. 191 00:12:27,760 --> 00:12:31,600 We're expecting to get a Bisorio bloke 192 00:12:31,600 --> 00:12:34,760 to interpret for us. 193 00:12:34,760 --> 00:12:36,320 We haven't got him yet. 194 00:12:36,320 --> 00:12:41,160 And Bisorio people live over in these hills over here 195 00:12:41,160 --> 00:12:43,480 and they're nomadic... 196 00:12:43,480 --> 00:12:47,520 and the local people here have agreed to go and look for them, 197 00:12:47,520 --> 00:12:50,840 but they're not sure they're going to find them. 198 00:12:50,840 --> 00:12:53,520 When did they last see them? 199 00:12:53,520 --> 00:12:58,160 They saw two blokes... two men from this group a month ago 200 00:12:58,160 --> 00:13:02,360 when they came in from the hills over there to trade for tobacco. 201 00:13:04,400 --> 00:13:08,160 So, the constable and two Inaru men set off in a canoe 202 00:13:08,160 --> 00:13:10,600 to try and find us an interpreter, 203 00:13:10,600 --> 00:13:12,480 a nomad, who might be anywhere 204 00:13:12,480 --> 00:13:15,160 in several hundred square miles of forest, 205 00:13:15,160 --> 00:13:18,600 and who might not be to keen on being discovered anyway. 206 00:13:18,600 --> 00:13:21,600 It seemed a fairly tough assignment. 207 00:13:25,480 --> 00:13:28,600 The next day, we ourselves would set off on foot, 208 00:13:28,600 --> 00:13:31,480 following the river into the mountains. 209 00:13:31,480 --> 00:13:34,840 Since from here on we should be in uncontrolled country, 210 00:13:34,840 --> 00:13:37,680 there was a chance we might have to defend ourselves, 211 00:13:37,680 --> 00:13:41,240 so Laurie issued bullets to the police and, at the same time, 212 00:13:41,240 --> 00:13:45,080 as the regulations insist, gave strict instructions in pidgin 213 00:13:45,080 --> 00:13:47,760 on when and how a man was permitted to fire them. 214 00:13:54,760 --> 00:13:58,080 And so the march began. There was no track, 215 00:13:58,080 --> 00:14:02,160 so two men at the head of the column had to cut a path through the bush 216 00:14:02,160 --> 00:14:05,760 wide enough for people burdened by heavy and bulky loads. 217 00:14:05,760 --> 00:14:07,040 Because we had no idea 218 00:14:07,040 --> 00:14:10,480 when or where we might find villages from whom we could get food 219 00:14:10,480 --> 00:14:14,000 and shelter, everything we needed had to be brought with us 220 00:14:14,000 --> 00:14:18,240 and carried on men's shoulders - tents, medicines, lamps, 221 00:14:18,240 --> 00:14:21,440 surveying equipment, radio gear, personal baggage, 222 00:14:21,440 --> 00:14:23,920 trade goods such as beads and salt and knives, 223 00:14:23,920 --> 00:14:28,640 photographic equipment, axes, buckets, and above all, food. 224 00:14:28,640 --> 00:14:32,320 Food for us, food for the carriers of equipment, 225 00:14:32,320 --> 00:14:35,520 and more food for those carrying food. 226 00:14:38,800 --> 00:14:41,600 We marched up the east bank of the river, 227 00:14:41,600 --> 00:14:45,240 but the main area of unknown country lay to the west, 228 00:14:45,240 --> 00:14:47,880 and so, eventually, we had to cross it. 229 00:14:47,880 --> 00:14:51,480 At this point, it was just possible for one man without a load 230 00:14:51,480 --> 00:14:54,280 to swim across, but to get the whole party over, 231 00:14:54,280 --> 00:14:55,760 we had to build a bridge. 232 00:15:02,280 --> 00:15:04,920 The New Guinea forests most generously provide you 233 00:15:04,920 --> 00:15:06,200 with everything you need 234 00:15:06,200 --> 00:15:10,360 for the construction of a first-rate suspension bridge - 235 00:15:10,360 --> 00:15:13,000 primarily Kanda, a kind of long, straggling cane 236 00:15:13,000 --> 00:15:14,920 that grows throughout the forest, 237 00:15:14,920 --> 00:15:16,560 draping itself over trees 238 00:15:16,560 --> 00:15:20,000 and along the ground like a carelessly laid cable. 239 00:15:20,000 --> 00:15:24,440 It grows, astonishingly, into lengths up to 500ft long 240 00:15:24,440 --> 00:15:27,240 and it's as strong as any rope. 241 00:15:27,240 --> 00:15:30,480 Three lengths bundled together will form the basic cable 242 00:15:30,480 --> 00:15:32,320 on which to put our feet. 243 00:15:32,320 --> 00:15:34,760 One on either side will serve as handrails, 244 00:15:34,760 --> 00:15:37,440 and the whole contraption will be tied together 245 00:15:37,440 --> 00:15:39,680 with string made from splitting kanda. 246 00:15:46,680 --> 00:15:50,200 106 carriers, quite apart from ourselves, 247 00:15:50,200 --> 00:15:52,600 have got across that bridge. 248 00:15:52,600 --> 00:15:57,520 106 sounds an absurd, almost ludicrously, large number, 249 00:15:57,520 --> 00:15:59,960 but the basic calculation is this - 250 00:15:59,960 --> 00:16:04,960 if one man carrying nothing or carrying just a tent or trade salts 251 00:16:04,960 --> 00:16:09,440 or a radio is going to survive in the field for a fortnight, 252 00:16:09,440 --> 00:16:12,600 he needs two other men, carrying nothing 253 00:16:12,600 --> 00:16:15,960 but food to provide him with food and them with food. 254 00:16:15,960 --> 00:16:19,120 If you want to stay longer than a fortnight in the field, 255 00:16:19,120 --> 00:16:23,400 and we do, you've either got to arrange for an air drop 256 00:16:23,400 --> 00:16:27,480 or you've got to live off the country. 257 00:16:27,480 --> 00:16:29,960 We can't live off the country 258 00:16:29,960 --> 00:16:31,960 because there are very few people here 259 00:16:31,960 --> 00:16:35,320 and, anyway, turning up for dinner with 106 porters 260 00:16:35,320 --> 00:16:37,600 is hardly a way to endear yourself. 261 00:16:37,600 --> 00:16:40,480 Or else, of course, we could starve. 262 00:16:40,480 --> 00:16:43,640 We're planning to get an air drop. 263 00:16:43,640 --> 00:16:47,080 But first, we've got to cross this river. 264 00:17:02,160 --> 00:17:04,440 MEN SHOUT 265 00:17:27,440 --> 00:17:29,760 The forest, as we had seen from the air, 266 00:17:29,760 --> 00:17:31,960 was as continuous as a carpet. 267 00:17:31,960 --> 00:17:35,800 There were no clearings, no patches of grassland, no meadows, 268 00:17:35,800 --> 00:17:39,200 and in order to get enough clear space in which to pitch tents, 269 00:17:39,200 --> 00:17:41,000 we had to cut down trees, 270 00:17:41,000 --> 00:17:43,480 and that takes time and energy. 271 00:17:43,480 --> 00:17:47,520 So every day we stopped at about four o'clock in the afternoon. 272 00:17:47,520 --> 00:17:51,640 That gave us time to make camp and get settled in before sundown. 273 00:17:51,640 --> 00:17:54,840 But since by then we had been marching for nine hours anyway, 274 00:17:54,840 --> 00:17:56,960 it was none too soon for most of us. 275 00:17:58,400 --> 00:18:00,800 The first job on making camp in the evening 276 00:18:00,800 --> 00:18:03,560 was to put up the aerial for the portable radio, 277 00:18:03,560 --> 00:18:06,880 so that Laurie Bragg could report back to his base at Ambunti 278 00:18:06,880 --> 00:18:09,960 and they would know just where we were if anything were to go wrong. 279 00:18:14,560 --> 00:18:18,520 Ambunti, Ambunti portable. Ambunti, Ambunti portable. Do you read? 280 00:18:21,120 --> 00:18:24,520 Roger. Now, on the aerial photograph, 281 00:18:24,520 --> 00:18:26,800 we're on the Salamei river 282 00:18:26,800 --> 00:18:30,960 immediately north of the nick in the top frame. 283 00:18:31,960 --> 00:18:36,520 Our intention now is to remain at this campsite 284 00:18:36,520 --> 00:18:39,000 for one or two days, 285 00:18:39,000 --> 00:18:43,400 to allow the constable and the Bisorio interpreters 286 00:18:43,400 --> 00:18:46,320 he's gone to look for to catch us up. 287 00:18:46,320 --> 00:18:48,160 Have you got that, over? 288 00:18:50,800 --> 00:18:53,360 Yeah, roger, roger. That's all. Roger. 289 00:18:56,000 --> 00:19:00,360 After three days of hard walking, a rest day is a blessing 290 00:19:00,360 --> 00:19:02,360 that everybody's grateful for. 291 00:19:02,360 --> 00:19:05,920 Their bruises and cuts and strains 292 00:19:05,920 --> 00:19:07,560 get a chance to heal, 293 00:19:07,560 --> 00:19:11,200 there's one man who's got a dose of malaria... 294 00:19:11,200 --> 00:19:14,640 and it also gives a chance to see something of the wildlife 295 00:19:14,640 --> 00:19:16,640 in the forests around here. 296 00:19:16,640 --> 00:19:18,560 When you're tramping through it - 297 00:19:18,560 --> 00:19:21,680 110 men, lugging patrol boxes about - 298 00:19:21,680 --> 00:19:23,320 you make a certain amount of noise 299 00:19:23,320 --> 00:19:27,960 so you don't expect to see much wildlife in the bush. 300 00:19:27,960 --> 00:19:31,720 But moving alone and by yourself, well, you've got a chance. 301 00:19:31,720 --> 00:19:35,960 But this bush around here in New Guinea 302 00:19:35,960 --> 00:19:38,640 is a very strange sort of bush. 303 00:19:38,640 --> 00:19:41,440 There aren't any big mammals - there are no monkeys, 304 00:19:41,440 --> 00:19:45,280 there aren't elephants or tigers or lions. 305 00:19:45,280 --> 00:19:49,400 In fact there are no big mammals at all in New Guinea. 306 00:19:49,400 --> 00:19:51,760 But what this forest DOES have, 307 00:19:51,760 --> 00:19:56,200 and which gives it a unique excitement and splendour, 308 00:19:56,200 --> 00:19:58,000 are birds of paradise. 309 00:19:58,000 --> 00:20:00,760 We've already heard them calling around the camp, 310 00:20:00,760 --> 00:20:03,160 and with any luck we might see some of them. 311 00:20:10,680 --> 00:20:12,560 And there IS one - 312 00:20:12,560 --> 00:20:14,200 lurking low down in a tree, 313 00:20:14,200 --> 00:20:17,360 swinging his train of yellow plumes. 314 00:20:17,360 --> 00:20:20,640 These marvellous birds assemble in the tops of trees 315 00:20:20,640 --> 00:20:22,720 and display to one another every morning 316 00:20:22,720 --> 00:20:24,760 in the half-light of early dawn. 317 00:20:24,760 --> 00:20:28,640 That is a wonderful enough sight, which few people have seen. 318 00:20:28,640 --> 00:20:30,760 Now, however, it was afternoon, 319 00:20:30,760 --> 00:20:33,360 and it looked as though we might be even more lucky, 320 00:20:33,360 --> 00:20:36,320 and see a rare performance of the display dance 321 00:20:36,320 --> 00:20:38,360 in the full blaze of sunshine. 322 00:20:38,360 --> 00:20:40,440 Undoubtedly, these plumed males 323 00:20:40,440 --> 00:20:42,440 assembling in their display 324 00:20:42,440 --> 00:20:45,040 were getting more and more excited. 325 00:20:47,480 --> 00:20:50,600 Slowly, they hopped onto higher and higher branches, 326 00:20:50,600 --> 00:20:52,960 until they reached the very summit of the tree, 327 00:20:52,960 --> 00:20:55,520 where they had stripped the leaves from one branch 328 00:20:55,520 --> 00:20:57,840 so that on this, their display ground, 329 00:20:57,840 --> 00:20:59,680 they could dance unimpeded. 330 00:21:02,760 --> 00:21:05,320 Now there were eight of these splendid creatures 331 00:21:05,320 --> 00:21:06,880 in a frenzy of excitement, 332 00:21:06,880 --> 00:21:10,880 displaying to one another as their performance mounted to its climax. 333 00:21:10,880 --> 00:21:13,920 This is a males' dance only - a competition 334 00:21:13,920 --> 00:21:15,960 not so much to impress the female, 335 00:21:15,960 --> 00:21:18,480 but to gain dominance over rival males. 336 00:21:18,480 --> 00:21:20,720 It's always performed in the same tree, 337 00:21:20,720 --> 00:21:22,240 and that is often their downfall - 338 00:21:22,240 --> 00:21:24,960 for some tribes hunt them for their plumes, 339 00:21:24,960 --> 00:21:27,800 which are used as money with which to buy pigs and wives. 340 00:21:27,800 --> 00:21:31,280 Here, however, in this uninhabited wilderness, 341 00:21:31,280 --> 00:21:33,080 they can dance unmolested. 342 00:21:46,560 --> 00:21:50,840 And this, apart from the pig, is the biggest mammal in the island. 343 00:21:50,840 --> 00:21:54,400 An absurd and endearing creature, the tree kangaroo. 344 00:22:00,520 --> 00:22:03,240 Above it was another - a baby. 345 00:22:07,680 --> 00:22:10,960 It seems quite ridiculous that an animal shaped like a kangaroo 346 00:22:10,960 --> 00:22:14,200 should have decided to try and climb into a tree. 347 00:22:14,200 --> 00:22:16,440 Its legs, which are splendid for hopping, 348 00:22:16,440 --> 00:22:20,240 seem to be a positive liability up in the branches, and indeed, 349 00:22:20,240 --> 00:22:23,440 to be truthful, tree kangaroos are pretty clumsy creatures 350 00:22:23,440 --> 00:22:27,240 and always in imminent danger of falling out of their trees. 351 00:22:32,880 --> 00:22:37,560 Another of New Guinea's splendid and extraordinary decorated birds - 352 00:22:37,560 --> 00:22:39,240 the Goura pigeon. 353 00:22:39,240 --> 00:22:41,040 The largest of all the pigeons, 354 00:22:41,040 --> 00:22:43,440 with a marvellous silver-spotted tiara, 355 00:22:43,440 --> 00:22:47,040 which it uses just like the birds of paradise in display dances. 356 00:22:47,040 --> 00:22:49,880 It spends most of its time on the ground, 357 00:22:49,880 --> 00:22:53,600 and, unhappily for its own wellbeing, makes pretty good eating. 358 00:22:58,240 --> 00:23:02,400 The next day, seven days after leaving Inaru, the constable, 359 00:23:02,400 --> 00:23:05,360 who had gone to look for the interpreter, caught up with us. 360 00:23:05,360 --> 00:23:07,960 He gave his report to Laurie in pidgin, 361 00:23:07,960 --> 00:23:12,200 and though I couldn't understand all he said, it looked like bad news. 362 00:23:12,200 --> 00:23:15,000 HE SPEAKS IN PIDGIN 363 00:23:19,720 --> 00:23:23,280 THEY SPEAK IN PIDGIN 364 00:23:33,680 --> 00:23:36,960 He had found no-one. It was a real blow. 365 00:23:36,960 --> 00:23:40,000 But there was nothing we could do now except go on. 366 00:23:44,520 --> 00:23:46,840 You have to watch where you put your hands. 367 00:23:46,840 --> 00:23:48,560 If you grab a branch for support, 368 00:23:48,560 --> 00:23:51,440 in order to steady yourself, without looking at it closely, 369 00:23:51,440 --> 00:23:53,840 as like as not you will stab your palm 370 00:23:53,840 --> 00:23:56,240 full of long, barbed thorns. 371 00:23:56,240 --> 00:23:58,400 It's extraordinary in the circumstances 372 00:23:58,400 --> 00:24:01,520 how quickly you become quite a good practical botanist, 373 00:24:01,520 --> 00:24:04,200 able to recognise some sorts of tree in a flash. 374 00:24:08,960 --> 00:24:10,880 Now that we had left the rivers, 375 00:24:10,880 --> 00:24:14,960 we were navigating for much of the time on simple compass bearings. 376 00:24:17,640 --> 00:24:20,680 HE SPEAKS IN PIDGIN 377 00:24:32,800 --> 00:24:36,000 And then, suddenly, two weeks after setting out, 378 00:24:36,000 --> 00:24:38,360 as we cut our way up a ridge, 379 00:24:38,360 --> 00:24:42,160 the sharp eye of our trackers noticed an old break in a sapling. 380 00:24:43,200 --> 00:24:47,240 Someone else, a few months ago, had passed this way. 381 00:24:47,240 --> 00:24:49,360 That morning, we saw several more. 382 00:24:49,360 --> 00:24:52,640 The rigs we were following must be a route used by those people 383 00:24:52,640 --> 00:24:56,520 whose houses we had seen from the air. They couldn't be far away. 384 00:24:56,520 --> 00:24:58,720 Indeed, they might well be watching us 385 00:24:58,720 --> 00:25:02,440 as we crashed so clumsily and noisily through the forest. 386 00:25:09,200 --> 00:25:12,320 And then, unexpectedly, we marched into a clearing, 387 00:25:12,320 --> 00:25:15,080 and there ahead of us was a house. 388 00:25:15,080 --> 00:25:19,320 It was big enough to hold an entire family group of 20 or so people. 389 00:25:19,320 --> 00:25:21,840 It was also clearly a fortress, 390 00:25:21,840 --> 00:25:23,600 built on stilts for protection, 391 00:25:23,600 --> 00:25:25,440 with loopholes through the sides 392 00:25:25,440 --> 00:25:27,720 from which defenders could fire arrows. 393 00:25:27,720 --> 00:25:30,400 The question was whether the fortress was manned, 394 00:25:30,400 --> 00:25:34,120 and whether we, without interpreters to explain our intentions, 395 00:25:34,120 --> 00:25:36,680 would be taken as friends or enemies. 396 00:25:36,680 --> 00:25:37,960 Oi! 397 00:25:45,200 --> 00:25:46,400 Oi! 398 00:25:48,920 --> 00:25:51,520 There was no reaction. Nothing moved. 399 00:25:58,360 --> 00:26:02,400 The entrance was barricaded with a huge, heavy plank. 400 00:26:02,400 --> 00:26:05,680 It looked as though the house was deserted, but we couldn't be sure. 401 00:26:05,680 --> 00:26:08,400 It could be that the people were simply not at home, 402 00:26:08,400 --> 00:26:10,920 but out hunting somewhere in the forest. 403 00:26:10,920 --> 00:26:13,440 Or that they had taken fright at our approach 404 00:26:13,440 --> 00:26:16,960 and were somewhere nearby, watching what we would do. 405 00:26:16,960 --> 00:26:18,960 Or it could even be an ambush. 406 00:26:50,560 --> 00:26:54,200 This narrow corridor is a very effective fortification. 407 00:26:54,200 --> 00:26:58,320 Nobody could get into this house armed only with spears 408 00:26:58,320 --> 00:27:00,040 and bows and arrows... 409 00:27:00,040 --> 00:27:01,960 if the owners didn't want them to. 410 00:27:03,120 --> 00:27:05,080 And this is the only room. 411 00:27:10,600 --> 00:27:12,560 These... 412 00:27:12,560 --> 00:27:14,120 I don't know what's in here. 413 00:27:14,120 --> 00:27:16,200 From the weight of it, it's quite light, 414 00:27:16,200 --> 00:27:17,840 perhaps it's a dancing skirt. 415 00:27:19,840 --> 00:27:23,160 And here, carefully strung on vines... 416 00:27:24,960 --> 00:27:30,320 ..these, I think, are the eggs of the bush turkey, the megapode. 417 00:27:37,720 --> 00:27:39,280 The back here... 418 00:27:44,040 --> 00:27:45,360 RATTLING 419 00:27:46,520 --> 00:27:49,960 These dancing beads, dancing rattles. 420 00:27:53,360 --> 00:27:54,680 And here at the back... 421 00:27:56,600 --> 00:28:00,240 ..jawbones of pigs, carefully strung up and preserved. 422 00:28:00,240 --> 00:28:02,040 The pig, all over New Guinea, 423 00:28:02,040 --> 00:28:05,480 is an animal of great ceremonial importance. 424 00:28:05,480 --> 00:28:08,960 And this is unusual. At least, I've not seen it before. 425 00:28:08,960 --> 00:28:11,040 The jawbones of piglets, too. 426 00:28:13,720 --> 00:28:19,480 And this savage and effective-looking dagger... 427 00:28:19,480 --> 00:28:20,960 carefully incised on the tip. 428 00:28:23,320 --> 00:28:28,440 This is made from the leg bone of the cassowary, 429 00:28:28,440 --> 00:28:30,720 the New Guinea ostrich. 430 00:28:32,520 --> 00:28:36,480 And here, a formidable armoury of arrows. 431 00:28:39,040 --> 00:28:45,440 These, with the bamboo blades, are normally used for killing pigs. 432 00:28:45,440 --> 00:28:50,680 And these, with the hardwood points, sometimes the bone points, 433 00:28:50,680 --> 00:28:53,960 I asked one of the local people once what they were used for, 434 00:28:53,960 --> 00:28:58,720 he said, "Oh, they killing man." These are war arrows. 435 00:29:02,560 --> 00:29:04,360 A rack of firewood. 436 00:29:06,360 --> 00:29:09,240 And above me, the rafters of the roof 437 00:29:09,240 --> 00:29:15,080 are most carefully and meticulously lashed with a decorative pattern. 438 00:29:20,560 --> 00:29:21,600 The fireplace. 439 00:29:24,320 --> 00:29:28,200 The stones are still warm. They were here just recently. 440 00:29:30,680 --> 00:29:36,320 Here is the fire stick that they use for making fire. 441 00:29:36,320 --> 00:29:38,080 It's got those notches. 442 00:29:38,080 --> 00:29:40,680 You put it beneath your foot and... 443 00:29:41,920 --> 00:29:43,800 ..pull it with a rattan cane. 444 00:29:45,680 --> 00:29:49,240 So they were here quite recently. But now... 445 00:29:50,680 --> 00:29:52,480 ..the place is totally deserted. 446 00:29:56,640 --> 00:29:59,280 We couldn't have stayed by that house any longer, 447 00:29:59,280 --> 00:30:01,760 for we were running short of food. 448 00:30:01,760 --> 00:30:04,560 But although we hadn't actually seen the people themselves, 449 00:30:04,560 --> 00:30:07,440 we had learned quite a lot about them from the house itself 450 00:30:07,440 --> 00:30:09,360 and the objects inside it. 451 00:30:19,600 --> 00:30:22,440 The following day, we were due to get an airdrop of supplies. 452 00:30:22,440 --> 00:30:24,000 Before we had set out, 453 00:30:24,000 --> 00:30:26,920 Laurie had agreed with the pilot on a date for the drop, 454 00:30:26,920 --> 00:30:29,000 and together, they had picked a place which - 455 00:30:29,000 --> 00:30:31,880 judging from the air photographs - seemed suitable, 456 00:30:31,880 --> 00:30:33,640 where the ground was relatively flat 457 00:30:33,640 --> 00:30:37,320 and the plane could get a decent approach run through the mountains. 458 00:30:37,320 --> 00:30:40,560 Our problem now was to get there on time and, preferably, 459 00:30:40,560 --> 00:30:42,280 with all our gear dry. 460 00:30:44,240 --> 00:30:45,840 MEN SHOUT 461 00:30:51,320 --> 00:30:54,440 When we got to the drop site, we felled trees to make 462 00:30:54,440 --> 00:30:57,320 an open space and spread out tarpaulins 463 00:30:57,320 --> 00:30:59,840 as markers for the pilot to aim at. 464 00:30:59,840 --> 00:31:02,760 And just so that several tons of stores weren't dropped 465 00:31:02,760 --> 00:31:07,440 on the tarpaulins we used as tents, we concealed those with branches. 466 00:31:12,800 --> 00:31:15,920 The pilot would need all the help he could get to find us, 467 00:31:15,920 --> 00:31:17,560 so we lit a fire as well. 468 00:31:20,880 --> 00:31:23,720 PLANE ENGINE ROARS 469 00:31:30,440 --> 00:31:32,760 THEY SHOUT 470 00:31:35,360 --> 00:31:37,440 Hopeless, miles off target! 471 00:31:37,440 --> 00:31:39,120 The porters were furious. 472 00:31:39,120 --> 00:31:41,440 It would be a lot of work climbing around in the bush 473 00:31:41,440 --> 00:31:43,680 trying to find those bags. 474 00:31:43,680 --> 00:31:46,840 PORTERS SPEAK OWN LANGUAGE 475 00:31:46,840 --> 00:31:49,800 For the second pass, he came in much lower. 476 00:31:58,280 --> 00:31:59,760 Bang in the centre. 477 00:32:18,320 --> 00:32:19,960 One, two, three, four, five. 478 00:32:23,440 --> 00:32:26,480 Three passes, six bags on each drop, 479 00:32:26,480 --> 00:32:28,960 18 bags of rice, tinned meat, 480 00:32:28,960 --> 00:32:32,560 sugar and salt that somehow had got to be found. 481 00:32:34,880 --> 00:32:36,880 That day, our spirits were high. 482 00:32:36,880 --> 00:32:39,680 We had been on short rations for some time past, 483 00:32:39,680 --> 00:32:43,880 and everyone was looking forward to an enormous meal that evening. 484 00:32:43,880 --> 00:32:47,080 The next morning, things didn't look quite so good. 485 00:32:47,080 --> 00:32:49,120 The loads, which over the past few days 486 00:32:49,120 --> 00:32:52,680 had been getting lighter and lighter as we ate our way through them, 487 00:32:52,680 --> 00:32:55,600 had suddenly become crushingly heavy again 488 00:32:55,600 --> 00:32:58,080 with all the stores from the airdrop. 489 00:32:58,080 --> 00:33:01,480 Always, as we marched, Laurie took bearings on mountains 490 00:33:01,480 --> 00:33:05,280 and river bends to check where we were on the air photographs 491 00:33:05,280 --> 00:33:07,760 and build up a detailed map of our progress. 492 00:33:14,640 --> 00:33:16,960 One of the least attractive experiences of walking 493 00:33:16,960 --> 00:33:19,080 through forest like this are these creatures. 494 00:33:20,520 --> 00:33:22,360 Eugh. 495 00:33:22,360 --> 00:33:24,080 A leech. 496 00:33:24,080 --> 00:33:26,240 Fortunately, I managed to get it this time, 497 00:33:26,240 --> 00:33:29,480 before it started sucking my blood. 498 00:33:29,480 --> 00:33:32,680 But there are plenty more of its brothers around here 499 00:33:32,680 --> 00:33:34,680 just waiting for me to pass their way. 500 00:33:34,680 --> 00:33:36,880 I can see them even here, on the leaves. 501 00:33:38,680 --> 00:33:43,240 The existence of the leeches in this forest is, to me, really, a puzzle, 502 00:33:43,240 --> 00:33:47,920 because they are creatures which are very specially modified 503 00:33:47,920 --> 00:33:50,200 to live only on blood - 504 00:33:50,200 --> 00:33:53,240 say a human being's blood or pig's blood - 505 00:33:53,240 --> 00:33:56,800 but there are very, very few pigs in these forests 506 00:33:56,800 --> 00:33:59,400 and even fewer human beings. 507 00:33:59,400 --> 00:34:02,320 And yet, wherever we walk, every day, 508 00:34:02,320 --> 00:34:05,240 we see dozens and dozens and dozens of leeches. 509 00:34:05,240 --> 00:34:07,280 How they survive, I don't know. 510 00:34:07,280 --> 00:34:10,160 Where they get their food from, I have no idea. 511 00:34:10,160 --> 00:34:12,760 I just wish that they themselves realised 512 00:34:12,760 --> 00:34:16,120 that their existence and survival is an impossibility. 513 00:34:18,040 --> 00:34:21,280 And this, on the other hand, is one of the most engaging, 514 00:34:21,280 --> 00:34:25,320 indeed slightly lunatic inhabitants of the forest - the echidna. 515 00:34:25,320 --> 00:34:26,880 An amiable, myopic creature 516 00:34:26,880 --> 00:34:30,080 which has the same nonsensical group of characteristics 517 00:34:30,080 --> 00:34:31,800 as the duck-billed platypus. 518 00:34:31,800 --> 00:34:35,560 It's got warm blood, feeds its young on milk and lays eggs. 519 00:34:39,000 --> 00:34:41,240 There are poisonous snakes in New Guinea, 520 00:34:41,240 --> 00:34:43,920 and undoubtedly, they exist in some numbers. 521 00:34:43,920 --> 00:34:46,680 But they are very hard to find, and usually, 522 00:34:46,680 --> 00:34:49,520 they slither away before you have a decent chance to look at them. 523 00:34:49,520 --> 00:34:53,480 This one is quite harmless. A beautiful emerald green tree python. 524 00:35:03,640 --> 00:35:07,520 And then, once more, we came across signs of human beings. 525 00:35:07,520 --> 00:35:09,440 This is a pig trap. 526 00:35:09,440 --> 00:35:11,440 The pig would come down this corridor 527 00:35:11,440 --> 00:35:15,000 and trigger off a log hanging above it with a spear in it. 528 00:35:15,000 --> 00:35:17,160 The trap was old and long since sprung, 529 00:35:17,160 --> 00:35:20,800 but at least it was a sign that the forest was inhabited. 530 00:35:32,480 --> 00:35:35,040 Day after day, we trudged on. 531 00:35:35,040 --> 00:35:37,800 We made careful notes of all the rivers that we crossed - 532 00:35:37,800 --> 00:35:40,520 which way they flowed and how far apart they were - 533 00:35:40,520 --> 00:35:43,800 of the different kinds of rocks we saw on the river beds 534 00:35:43,800 --> 00:35:46,120 and the kinds of trees in the forests. 535 00:35:46,120 --> 00:35:49,160 We took altitude readings and natural history notes, 536 00:35:49,160 --> 00:35:52,040 and compass bearings of prominent peaks and rivers. 537 00:35:52,040 --> 00:35:54,960 Certainly, we left behind us a trail through the bush 538 00:35:54,960 --> 00:35:56,600 that would make it much easier 539 00:35:56,600 --> 00:35:59,160 for anyone who ever had to come this way again. 540 00:36:01,040 --> 00:36:04,640 As we made camp on the 25th night of the patrol, 541 00:36:04,640 --> 00:36:08,520 it was no good denying that we were feeling pretty depressed. 542 00:36:08,520 --> 00:36:11,200 We had all hoped to get some glimpse of the shy people 543 00:36:11,200 --> 00:36:12,960 who we knew lived here. 544 00:36:12,960 --> 00:36:16,680 But we were now within three days of coming out on the other side of 545 00:36:16,680 --> 00:36:19,120 the blank on the map into known country, 546 00:36:19,120 --> 00:36:22,040 and we haven't seen anything of them. 547 00:36:22,040 --> 00:36:25,760 PORTERS SPEAK OWN LANGUAGE 548 00:36:26,880 --> 00:36:29,720 Laurie reckons that we must be in the territory of a tribe 549 00:36:29,720 --> 00:36:31,840 known to their neighbours as the Biami. 550 00:36:32,840 --> 00:36:36,200 Their name was the only word of their language that we knew. 551 00:36:36,200 --> 00:36:39,520 So that evening we sent out a porter 552 00:36:39,520 --> 00:36:41,440 to call that name over and over again. 553 00:36:41,440 --> 00:36:43,000 Biami! 554 00:36:44,120 --> 00:36:45,520 Biami! 555 00:36:48,200 --> 00:36:50,120 Biami! 556 00:36:52,960 --> 00:36:54,400 Biami! 557 00:36:56,720 --> 00:36:58,280 Biami! 558 00:36:58,280 --> 00:37:00,120 It was very cold that night. 559 00:37:00,120 --> 00:37:03,760 Next morning, it was drizzling, and no-one was anxious to move - 560 00:37:03,760 --> 00:37:07,920 until suddenly, a porter called out "Biami", and there they were. 561 00:37:14,760 --> 00:37:16,480 Biami, huh? 562 00:37:16,480 --> 00:37:18,200 - Biami. - Biami. 563 00:37:20,880 --> 00:37:24,080 Biami. Biami. 564 00:37:25,760 --> 00:37:28,040 THEY SPEAK OWN LANGUAGE 565 00:37:28,040 --> 00:37:33,480 Bia-ma, Bia-ma, Bia-ma, Bia-ma... 566 00:37:35,880 --> 00:37:38,360 Bia-ma, Bia-ma. 567 00:37:48,080 --> 00:37:52,160 - Siti. - Siti. - LAURIE: - Sitifa? 568 00:37:52,160 --> 00:37:54,320 Sitifa is the name of a river. 569 00:37:56,560 --> 00:38:00,200 THEY CONTINUE IN OWN LANGUAGE 570 00:38:17,200 --> 00:38:19,720 'We tried to ask them, by gestures, 571 00:38:19,720 --> 00:38:23,360 'to bring in their women and children and to bring us food. 572 00:38:23,360 --> 00:38:26,840 'It was not that we really needed their taro or bananas, 573 00:38:26,840 --> 00:38:29,680 'but trade is a proper and decent relationship 574 00:38:29,680 --> 00:38:32,160 'with dignity and respect on both sides. 575 00:38:32,160 --> 00:38:35,480 'We didn't want our meeting to become a question of the rich 576 00:38:35,480 --> 00:38:38,040 'handing out gifts to the poor. 577 00:38:38,040 --> 00:38:40,800 'Perhaps, too, they might persuade their neighbours, 578 00:38:40,800 --> 00:38:44,360 'who had run away from us, the Bukaru, to come in as well. 579 00:38:44,360 --> 00:38:47,800 'But with no common words between us except for proper names, 580 00:38:47,800 --> 00:38:50,000 'the message wasn't easy to get across.' 581 00:38:50,000 --> 00:38:52,720 TRIBESMEN SPEAK OWN LANGUAGE 582 00:38:57,640 --> 00:38:59,720 Bukaru, Bukaru... 583 00:39:53,280 --> 00:39:56,000 'One of the most popular gifts in the remoter parts 584 00:39:56,000 --> 00:39:57,560 'of New Guinea is newspaper. 585 00:39:57,560 --> 00:40:00,560 'It is used for smoking the raw, powerful tobacco 586 00:40:00,560 --> 00:40:02,320 'that every village grows. 587 00:40:02,320 --> 00:40:06,320 'Some people will carry a load for a day for a couple of sheets or so. 588 00:40:06,320 --> 00:40:09,480 'But these people normally use dried leaves as cigarette wrapping, 589 00:40:09,480 --> 00:40:12,280 'and had no idea what to do with the paper. 590 00:40:12,280 --> 00:40:15,920 'They took it rather as though it was some sort of useless memento. 591 00:40:20,680 --> 00:40:24,360 'This plainly was not a success, so Laurie tried salt instead. 592 00:40:27,840 --> 00:40:31,880 'This was much better received, and what with that, and cigarettes 593 00:40:31,880 --> 00:40:36,280 'made for them from newspaper by the police, all looked well.' 594 00:40:37,520 --> 00:40:39,440 - Bikaru... - Bikaru. 595 00:40:42,640 --> 00:40:46,080 - Lalu. - Lalu, Lalu... - Bukaru. - Bukaru. 596 00:40:48,520 --> 00:40:49,920 Bukaru. 597 00:40:59,880 --> 00:41:03,160 PORTER ATTEMPTS TO TRANSLATE 598 00:41:07,680 --> 00:41:10,800 'After about an hour, when they started to leave, 599 00:41:10,800 --> 00:41:14,720 'they seemed to be as delighted with the meeting as we were ourselves. 600 00:41:35,320 --> 00:41:37,520 'That night, we reported back to base 601 00:41:37,520 --> 00:41:39,000 'in a much happier frame of mind. 602 00:41:39,000 --> 00:41:41,920 'Except for the fact that the radio was giving serious trouble.' 603 00:41:41,920 --> 00:41:43,200 FEEDBACK 604 00:41:43,200 --> 00:41:45,160 I'll go ahead, I think that's through to base. 605 00:41:45,160 --> 00:41:49,840 Our position is I1, the bottom of I1. 606 00:41:49,840 --> 00:41:52,480 If you've got that, give us a long roger, would you? 607 00:41:52,480 --> 00:41:54,920 - MUFFLED REPLY: - Roger, roger... 608 00:41:57,200 --> 00:41:59,680 Strength at half, strength at half, 609 00:41:59,680 --> 00:42:01,920 we've got a broken wire in the set, over. 610 00:42:05,240 --> 00:42:07,720 MUFFLED REPLY 611 00:42:09,360 --> 00:42:13,680 I think you said you had nothing for us, I didn't hear properly. 612 00:42:13,680 --> 00:42:17,280 If you're writing in to the DC, you could let him know 613 00:42:17,280 --> 00:42:21,240 that we have found our first group of people, 614 00:42:21,240 --> 00:42:23,960 first group of people, we will stay here tomorrow 615 00:42:23,960 --> 00:42:25,960 and maybe some of them will come in. 616 00:42:28,440 --> 00:42:30,040 But would they? 617 00:42:30,040 --> 00:42:32,960 Would they be sufficiently convinced of our goodwill 618 00:42:32,960 --> 00:42:34,120 to risk another visit? 619 00:42:34,120 --> 00:42:36,960 Certainly, they had seemed happy enough when they were with us, 620 00:42:36,960 --> 00:42:39,160 but no-one was taking any bets. 621 00:42:46,760 --> 00:42:49,280 But the next morning, there they were again. 622 00:42:49,280 --> 00:42:52,160 And what is more, they were carrying loads of food. 623 00:43:06,440 --> 00:43:09,280 TRIBESMEN SPEAK OWN LANGUAGE 624 00:43:18,680 --> 00:43:20,200 'There wasn't much of it. 625 00:43:20,200 --> 00:43:22,280 'Certainly not enough to make much difference 626 00:43:22,280 --> 00:43:23,960 'to the rations of 100 men. 627 00:43:23,960 --> 00:43:26,080 'But it was a proper basis for trade. 628 00:43:36,040 --> 00:43:38,600 'Now they seemed sufficiently confident for me 629 00:43:38,600 --> 00:43:40,560 'to look at their personal ornaments, 630 00:43:40,560 --> 00:43:44,440 'and perhaps in the process discover a few Biami words. 631 00:43:44,440 --> 00:43:48,080 'In his ear, he had what I recognised as a cassowary quill 632 00:43:48,080 --> 00:43:49,200 'bent into a ring. 633 00:43:50,680 --> 00:43:53,480 'Every one of them had two ritual punctures in his nose, 634 00:43:53,480 --> 00:43:56,520 'and he had pegs in them. What were they? 635 00:44:05,040 --> 00:44:08,280 'It turned out they were just little wooden pegs. 636 00:44:19,320 --> 00:44:22,760 'There was a bone through his ear as well, but from what?' 637 00:44:22,760 --> 00:44:24,760 - Kokomo, kokomo. - Kokomo. 638 00:44:26,200 --> 00:44:27,600 - Kokomo? - Mm. 639 00:44:27,600 --> 00:44:28,880 DAVID SQUAWKS 640 00:44:28,880 --> 00:44:30,960 'Hornbill. 641 00:44:36,800 --> 00:44:39,960 'This was the claw of a tree kangaroo.' 642 00:44:39,960 --> 00:44:41,360 Salam? 643 00:44:43,080 --> 00:44:44,960 Uh? 644 00:44:44,960 --> 00:44:48,200 'So the Biami word for tree kangaroo is "salam". 645 00:44:48,200 --> 00:44:50,520 'And now, trading began. 646 00:45:16,200 --> 00:45:19,160 'This time, one of the police offered glass beads. 647 00:45:19,160 --> 00:45:21,400 'Again, highly valued by other tribes. 648 00:45:42,000 --> 00:45:46,360 'But again, though they accepted them, they didn't seem overjoyed. 649 00:46:01,080 --> 00:46:03,480 'So we went back to salt. 650 00:46:33,560 --> 00:46:36,280 HE SPEAKS OWN LANGUAGE 651 00:46:40,160 --> 00:46:43,400 'Laurie now tried to put local names 652 00:46:43,400 --> 00:46:45,600 'to some of the rivers on his sketch map.' 653 00:47:09,080 --> 00:47:11,840 I suppose it's Setifa. 654 00:47:14,080 --> 00:47:16,600 'But then the Biami decided that we wanted to count 655 00:47:16,600 --> 00:47:18,520 'how many rivers there were. 656 00:47:18,520 --> 00:47:22,680 'The gestures used in counting vary considerably from tribe to tribe. 657 00:47:22,680 --> 00:47:24,240 'If we could discover their method, 658 00:47:24,240 --> 00:47:26,920 'we might learn something of their tribal connections, 659 00:47:26,920 --> 00:47:30,560 'so Laurie listed the names of rivers he had already discovered.' 660 00:47:31,760 --> 00:47:34,880 - Hiyami. - Hiyami. - 'Six.' 661 00:47:35,960 --> 00:47:38,320 - Lalu. - Lalu. 662 00:47:40,880 --> 00:47:42,400 'Eight.' 663 00:47:47,520 --> 00:47:49,840 - Harifa. - Harifa. 664 00:47:49,840 --> 00:47:50,880 'Nine.' 665 00:48:05,000 --> 00:48:06,400 Samo. 666 00:48:08,120 --> 00:48:10,240 Sao. Sao, Sao! 667 00:48:10,240 --> 00:48:12,520 Sao, Sao, Sao... 668 00:48:14,480 --> 00:48:15,600 '11.' 669 00:48:25,080 --> 00:48:30,120 The cost of bringing about this meeting has been quite considerable. 670 00:48:30,120 --> 00:48:33,240 Over 100 men have marched for other four weeks. 671 00:48:33,240 --> 00:48:35,400 There have been at least three cases of pneumonia 672 00:48:35,400 --> 00:48:40,000 and a great number of bruises and abrasions and cuts. 673 00:48:40,000 --> 00:48:43,280 Not to mention an airdrop. Is it worth it? 674 00:48:44,680 --> 00:48:48,160 Well, nobody knows what are in these valleys. 675 00:48:48,160 --> 00:48:50,560 It may be that there is gold here. 676 00:48:50,560 --> 00:48:53,240 It may be, like a valley less than 100 miles away, 677 00:48:53,240 --> 00:48:54,920 it is rich with copper. 678 00:48:54,920 --> 00:49:00,520 If it is, and if the West, European man, moves in here 679 00:49:00,520 --> 00:49:04,640 with all his technology, the fate of these people 680 00:49:04,640 --> 00:49:07,600 is likely to be a very unhappy one. 681 00:49:08,600 --> 00:49:11,480 All we know in the past of people like this 682 00:49:11,480 --> 00:49:14,720 who have come face-to-face with Western technology 683 00:49:14,720 --> 00:49:18,360 leads us to suppose that it is very difficult for them 684 00:49:18,360 --> 00:49:20,000 to survive that clash. 685 00:49:21,520 --> 00:49:26,320 And so, the only chance of bringing these people to terms 686 00:49:26,320 --> 00:49:31,200 with the world outside is a gradual process over years, 687 00:49:31,200 --> 00:49:32,720 over tens of years, 688 00:49:32,720 --> 00:49:34,960 in which, gradually, they get to know 689 00:49:34,960 --> 00:49:37,080 what happens in the outside world. 690 00:49:37,080 --> 00:49:40,440 Gradually, they get to believe that people like ourselves 691 00:49:40,440 --> 00:49:43,000 are their friends and not their enemies. 692 00:49:43,000 --> 00:49:46,240 Gradually, they have enough confidence in us to allow us 693 00:49:46,240 --> 00:49:49,560 to give them medical help and educational help. 694 00:49:50,560 --> 00:49:52,920 It would have been easy, I daresay, 695 00:49:52,920 --> 00:49:55,160 for us to have tried to dazzle them now 696 00:49:55,160 --> 00:49:58,240 with some of our technological conjuring tricks, 697 00:49:58,240 --> 00:50:01,040 to have played back their recorded voice 698 00:50:01,040 --> 00:50:05,160 or to have taken their picture on an instant camera. 699 00:50:05,160 --> 00:50:10,760 But when you are faced with encounters like this, 700 00:50:10,760 --> 00:50:14,360 such tricks seem tawdry and trivial. 701 00:50:15,680 --> 00:50:20,320 It's not that we can do those tricks, 702 00:50:20,320 --> 00:50:23,880 that they have got cassowary quills through their nostrils, 703 00:50:23,880 --> 00:50:27,640 or that we happen to live on bits of cow's meat wrapped up 704 00:50:27,640 --> 00:50:30,480 in a cunning way in bits of metal. 705 00:50:30,480 --> 00:50:33,520 It is not the differences between us that are important, 706 00:50:33,520 --> 00:50:35,600 it is the similarities. 707 00:50:35,600 --> 00:50:38,760 It is the fact that when one of us laughs, 708 00:50:38,760 --> 00:50:40,520 the other knows what he's feeling. 709 00:50:40,520 --> 00:50:43,040 That is when one of us hit his stomach and scowls, 710 00:50:43,040 --> 00:50:46,280 the other knows that he's hungry. 711 00:50:46,280 --> 00:50:49,840 These are the things that are the bond between us, 712 00:50:49,840 --> 00:50:53,160 and these are the things that we want to emphasise. 713 00:50:53,160 --> 00:50:57,880 I cannot suppose that they will give as their full confidence. 714 00:50:57,880 --> 00:51:02,400 The next step we are going to try is to ask them to take us 715 00:51:02,400 --> 00:51:07,240 down to their house. Whether they will or not, I don't know. 716 00:51:07,240 --> 00:51:09,120 That at least is the next step. 717 00:51:17,840 --> 00:51:20,680 'They led off and we followed. 718 00:51:20,680 --> 00:51:23,280 'Though whether they had really understood what we wanted, 719 00:51:23,280 --> 00:51:25,320 'we couldn't tell. 720 00:51:25,320 --> 00:51:27,960 'But suddenly, our relationship seemed to have 721 00:51:27,960 --> 00:51:30,400 'become a little uneasy, a little strained. 722 00:51:30,400 --> 00:51:33,240 'Perhaps we were pushing things a little too much.' 723 00:51:50,280 --> 00:51:52,840 Oi! Biami-o! 724 00:51:54,280 --> 00:51:57,360 'They had gone. They had simply vanished into thin air.' 725 00:52:00,440 --> 00:52:03,400 - Biami! - Biami-o! 726 00:52:03,400 --> 00:52:05,880 'There was nothing to do but go on. 727 00:52:05,880 --> 00:52:08,480 '100 yards beyond, we found a house.' 728 00:52:17,440 --> 00:52:19,120 Biami-o! 729 00:52:48,680 --> 00:52:52,360 Two days later, we were in known country again. 730 00:52:52,360 --> 00:52:56,040 In a year's time, perhaps another patrol would come through again, 731 00:52:56,040 --> 00:52:59,600 following in our steps and camping in our campsites. 732 00:52:59,600 --> 00:53:01,120 Maybe by then the Biami, 733 00:53:01,120 --> 00:53:04,320 remembering that we had not forced ourselves on them, 734 00:53:04,320 --> 00:53:06,960 would give in return more of their confidence, 735 00:53:06,960 --> 00:53:08,840 and perhaps their world and ours 736 00:53:08,840 --> 00:53:11,160 might get a little closer to one another. 737 00:53:12,440 --> 00:53:15,640 And meanwhile, that empty blank on the map now contained, 738 00:53:15,640 --> 00:53:19,520 for the first time, a few river names and altitudes, 739 00:53:19,520 --> 00:53:22,520 and a thin, erratic line drawn across it. 740 00:53:27,240 --> 00:53:29,120 I know that because of... 741 00:53:29,120 --> 00:53:31,800 Well, I have spoken to Laurie since then, 742 00:53:31,800 --> 00:53:33,200 but he was very sceptical 743 00:53:33,200 --> 00:53:35,640 as to whether we were going to make the grade. 744 00:53:36,880 --> 00:53:39,320 And it was hard, hard work keeping up, 745 00:53:39,320 --> 00:53:43,360 but equally, I think all three of us were determined to show 746 00:53:43,360 --> 00:53:46,320 that these poms weren't as soft as all that, 747 00:53:46,320 --> 00:53:48,320 or at least could keep going. 748 00:53:51,360 --> 00:53:54,920 When we saw the house, we were very excited, 749 00:53:54,920 --> 00:53:58,000 because this was the first sign of any human habitation 750 00:53:58,000 --> 00:53:59,440 in this vast wilderness. 751 00:53:59,440 --> 00:54:03,840 Laurie hollered, you know, "Hello!" and all of that. Nothing. 752 00:54:03,840 --> 00:54:04,880 Oi! 753 00:54:06,440 --> 00:54:10,720 But we knew perfectly well that there had been, on occasions, 754 00:54:10,720 --> 00:54:15,320 other patrol officers had found such things and had advanced 755 00:54:15,320 --> 00:54:18,840 and got a spear or an arrow straight through their chest. 756 00:54:18,840 --> 00:54:23,320 And there was no way in which you could tell. 757 00:54:23,320 --> 00:54:26,280 And I was very apprehensive, personally. 758 00:54:26,280 --> 00:54:29,520 I'm surprised, actually, I think in the film we rather play it down, 759 00:54:29,520 --> 00:54:32,520 but I was much more nervous than I let on in the film. 760 00:54:33,760 --> 00:54:36,680 So we made our way inside, 761 00:54:36,680 --> 00:54:40,680 and I thought I ought to make a record of it. 762 00:54:40,680 --> 00:54:46,040 Of what was in the house, which is... I drew it in my journal. 763 00:54:48,560 --> 00:54:50,680 And it's quite detailed, really. 764 00:54:50,680 --> 00:54:54,200 "Piglet jaws, cassowary bone dagger... 765 00:54:54,200 --> 00:54:57,880 "suspended bead rattles." 766 00:54:57,880 --> 00:55:03,360 Here was this very intimate living place of people 767 00:55:03,360 --> 00:55:06,800 who knew nothing of you, and you knew nothing of them. 768 00:55:06,800 --> 00:55:09,280 As though you had landed from the moon, 769 00:55:09,280 --> 00:55:13,440 and trying to work out how they live. 770 00:55:18,440 --> 00:55:22,480 We were within two or three days' march of coming out 771 00:55:22,480 --> 00:55:25,840 of the other side of the blank on the map, as it were. 772 00:55:27,480 --> 00:55:30,400 And we had almost given up hope of finding any people at all. 773 00:55:30,400 --> 00:55:33,920 We have found footprints, and we had followed trails, 774 00:55:33,920 --> 00:55:36,240 but we'd seen nobody. 775 00:55:36,240 --> 00:55:39,880 We went to sleep rather depressed. 776 00:55:41,480 --> 00:55:43,040 And then when I was woken up, 777 00:55:43,040 --> 00:55:47,080 I opened my eyes and there was this extraordinary little man, 778 00:55:47,080 --> 00:55:51,080 with his headdress and so on, and black teeth, 779 00:55:51,080 --> 00:55:54,800 looking at me as though I was a ghost or something. 780 00:55:54,800 --> 00:55:56,960 Standing there, peering at me. 781 00:55:56,960 --> 00:55:59,840 And I got up and tried to be 782 00:55:59,840 --> 00:56:04,280 welcoming and unaggressive and so on. 783 00:56:04,280 --> 00:56:06,440 - Biami, huh? - Biami. - Biami. 784 00:56:08,280 --> 00:56:12,400 Marvellously, Hugh Miles always slept with his camera 785 00:56:12,400 --> 00:56:14,480 underneath the camp bed. 786 00:56:14,480 --> 00:56:18,800 And he was already there filming, he was absolutely on it. 787 00:56:21,120 --> 00:56:22,760 There was always a possibility 788 00:56:22,760 --> 00:56:25,320 that these people wouldn't welcome strangers, 789 00:56:25,320 --> 00:56:28,280 and in the history of the exploration of Guinea, 790 00:56:28,280 --> 00:56:31,640 there are plenty of examples of people who were met with arrows. 791 00:56:31,640 --> 00:56:35,320 These people didn't meet us with arrows, they were puzzled, 792 00:56:35,320 --> 00:56:37,120 they were baffled by us. 793 00:56:37,120 --> 00:56:40,400 But they weren't aggressive about it. 794 00:56:43,960 --> 00:56:46,240 One was bending over backwards - 795 00:56:46,240 --> 00:56:50,400 if one could show that you were friendlily disposed, 796 00:56:50,400 --> 00:56:53,440 and you do that with jokes, actually. 797 00:56:55,040 --> 00:56:58,800 Just raising your eyebrows to something, 798 00:56:58,800 --> 00:57:01,520 you can tell a joke, with those sorts of gestures, 799 00:57:01,520 --> 00:57:03,920 with hardly any common vocabulary at all. 800 00:57:07,680 --> 00:57:13,640 Well, on the third day, they turned up with some fruit and stuff. 801 00:57:13,640 --> 00:57:18,240 And we gestured, said, "Why don't you take us to your village?" 802 00:57:18,240 --> 00:57:21,920 And after a bit, they decided yes, and they beckoned us. 803 00:57:21,920 --> 00:57:26,040 And so we moved off, and we could see them 804 00:57:26,040 --> 00:57:30,160 ahead of us in the forest, and then, after about, I don't know, 805 00:57:30,160 --> 00:57:32,480 half an hour, quarter of an hour, 806 00:57:32,480 --> 00:57:36,880 I came round a big tree and they weren't there. 807 00:57:36,880 --> 00:57:39,680 And Laurie then called - "Biami, Biami!" 808 00:57:41,240 --> 00:57:42,480 Biami-o! 809 00:57:42,480 --> 00:57:43,760 Nothing. 810 00:57:45,600 --> 00:57:51,520 And then we came to a shelter, and there was a fire, 811 00:57:51,520 --> 00:57:54,400 it was still warm. 812 00:57:54,400 --> 00:57:58,240 But there was also a stick with a skull, a human skull on it. 813 00:57:59,640 --> 00:58:01,480 And, uh... HE LAUGHS 814 00:58:01,480 --> 00:58:04,080 "Mm..." 815 00:58:04,080 --> 00:58:08,640 Whether we had walked into a trap or not, you didn't know. 816 00:58:08,640 --> 00:58:11,000 But we stayed there for a bit, calling for them. 817 00:58:11,000 --> 00:58:12,360 Biami-o! 818 00:58:12,360 --> 00:58:15,800 And then we tried to find their trail and couldn't. 819 00:58:15,800 --> 00:58:19,280 So we went back to the main camp. 820 00:58:19,280 --> 00:58:20,840 And that was it. 821 00:58:28,200 --> 00:58:31,360 TRIBESMEN SPEAK OWN LANGUAGE 68136

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